Sitting on the rocky ground at midnight, staring up at a cloudless, star-filled sky at the foot of Aoraki Mount Cook is one of those memories which is imprinted on my brain like a postcard. Even years after my trip I can close my eyes and still see that rough cut, a snow-covered mountain standing tall in front of me. The only sounds which surrounded me the cooing of kiwi birds and the soft melody of the wind.
Aoraki Mount Cook is the highest mountain in New Zealand. It soars 3,724 meters (12,218 feet) above the land around it. The mountain is infamous for climbing. It was even used by famed climber Edmund Hillary as a practice hike before he summitted Mount Everest. Surrounding the base of the mountain is the Tasman Glacier and the Hooker Glacier, two of the longest and largest remaining glaciers in the world. It truly is a place of incredible natural wonders and there are so many things to see and do here.
I think the best time to visit Aoraki Mount Cook is as Springtime arrives. This is from September to November in New Zealand. The temperatures in September to November range from highs of 20°C degrees and lows of 0°C . It can get especially chilly at night but you just need to pack on those layers!
Their peak season for tourism is from December to February when the weather is the warmest. Temperatures range from a high of 25°C and a low of 10°C. But warm weather also means you’ll see more tourists and need to book things well in advance.
March into May is when New Zealand sees autumnal weather and is another great time to visit since those fall colours are impressive across the park. The temperatures during these months are similar to those in the Spring.
March, May and October are the rainest months to visit. But since the mountains are located in a valley, they experience a bit of rain throughout the entire year.
Although the Europeans named it Mount Cook the natives have long called it Aoraki. Aoraki, according to Maori legend, was a young boy who was the son of the Sky Father and Earth Mother. The name means “Cloud Piercer”. The word “Ao” means “cloud” and “Ranki” means “sky or weather”.
According to the legend, Aoraki and his brothers were visiting their mother on Earth when their canoe became stranded on a reef and capsized. The canoe became the land on which the south island of New Zealand was formed, and Aoraki, the tallest of all the brothers, turned into a mountain.
The Maori Ngāi Tahu tribe which inhabits this region considers Aoraki the most sacred ancestor of their tribe. It links the physical world and the spiritual word together. And when walking through the park it’s important to remember this and honour the land upon which you visiting. Today, it is respectful to call the mountain either Aoraki Mount Cook or simply Aoraki as it recognizes the indigenous inhabitants of this region.
I am by NO means an athletic person! But even I found there were so many hiking trails here that appeal to every level of hiker. Some are not much more than a walk along some rough terrain into the gorgeous valleys surrounding the mountains. But if you are a more seasoned hiker you can set out on real adventures up the mountain. There really are trails for everyone, from beginner to expert.
I opted to stay at the acclaimed Hermitage Hotel right in the centre of Mount Cook National Park. This place books up very far in advance so the sooner you can make plans, the better. Their hotel has various room options from Chalets to Suites where you even have your kitchen. These are surprisingly affordable when considering the location and you CANNOT beat the views out their windows. Even if you just sat inside and looked out your window all day you’re bound to have an amazing time. Their prices range from $113 USD-$198 USD/night for the standard room depending on the season.
If you’re looking for a more budget-friendly option check out YHA Hostel. This hostel offers up dorm beds in a variety of combinations. If you’re a family you can get a private double room with bunk beds. There also are large dorm rooms if you’re travelling solo or with a group of friends. They have free parking, a fully equipped kitchen and they even have a sauna! Rooms cost anywhere between $22 USD-$117 USD depending on your choice of room (the private family rooms being the most expensive).
The Aoraki Mount Cook Alpine Lodge is a great mid-range price option. Their rooms are simple but they still all have stunning views and communal cooking spaces. So even if you don’t opt for the room with a kitchenette, there are places to make your meals. Rooms start at $111 USD a night.
The only road into Aoraki Mount Cook National Park is via State Highway 80. This road starts near Twizel, and leads directly to Mount Cook Village, where the road ends. If you’re driving in from Christchurch, you’ll take Highway 79, to Highway 8 and then onto Highway 80. There are plenty of things to see on your drive into the park. Be sure to read this post before planning your route. Many of the sights below you can visit on your drive into the park! I’ve laid them all out in order below to make your trip as seamless as possible.
While most journeys in New Zealand are done by renting a car, if you have flown in Christchurch you can get an intercity bus to Mount Cook. The bus will drop you off at the Aoraki Hermitage Hotel. The return price is $229 so it’s a great option if you can’t drive yourself.
Another option is to take a day trip from Christchurch. Although these tours cover most of the big sights, you’ll only get to experience them for a few minutes outside the coach. And you’ll miss out on most of the hikes. But if you’re pressed for time and want to see this mountain before leaving, these tours are a great option.
Whether you’re driving in from Twizel or Christchurch, be sure to make a short detour to Lake Tekapo. Lake Tekapo lies in the heart of the Mackenzie District. The word “Tekapo” is from the Maori word “taka” which means sleeping mat and “PO” which means night.
The lake is located inside a huge basin. Because of its location, protected from the rough coastal weather, it is surrounded by some incredible flora and fauna. The lake is encircled by lush golden tussock grass and sprawling flowers. One of the most popular times of the year to see the Lake is in the spring when the Lupin flowers bloom. Lupins are in actuality weeds so they spread like wildfire! But they are the most beautiful weeds in the entire world! The water which makes up the lake is drawn from melted glaciers. This glacier water contains finely ground rocks that give the lake that magical turquoise colouring.
Located on the edge of Lake Tekapo is the Church of the Good Shepard. This is the most famous church in New Zealand due to its scenic location. It was built in 1935 as a memorial to commemorate early settlers of the region.
As you continue along Highway 80 towards Mount Cook make a stop at Lake Pukaki. Your eyes will be amazed looking at the almost neon blue waters of this natural wonder. Lake Pukaki was also formed by the melting glaciers which give the lake that distinctive blue colour. These glacier lakes are created by years of grinding on the bedrock, called glacial erosion. Silt-sized particles make the water appear cloudy and therefore reflect the colour of the sky differently from normal lakes.
About 15 minutes before arriving into Aoraki Mount Cook village you’ll have one of the best opportunities for a photo! As you approach, you’ll see Mount Cook in all its glory appear in the centre of the road. The mountain is framed perfectly and often there isn’t another car in sight. This makes it truly such a spectacularly intimate photo.
Upon arriving at your accommodation, before setting right out on a hike it’s good to go and visit the Sir Edmund Hillary Visitor Center. This little museum is located inside the Heritage Hotel and is dedicated to one the world’s greatest explorers; Sir Edmund Hillary.
Sir Edmund Hillary used Aoraki Mount Cook National Park as a training ground for his summit to Everest. The visitor centre has a theatre show which has a great documentary about Hillary. It also contains fantastic historical objects and documents about Aoraki Mount Cook Park. It details the history of hiking in the park over the years and is a great primer for new explorers.
If you’re an inexperienced hiker (like me!) or just looking for a short walk to get your bearings, take off on the Governors Bush Walk. This is the easiest hike in the park but also provides several lookout points near the village of Mount Cook. You’ll even get a chance to see some unimaginable mountain views and a surprise waterfall!
The Hermitage Hotel offers up one of the best locations to see Mount Cook under the veil of darkness. It’s pretty beautiful during the day as well but at night it’s honestly just spectacular. Their panorama restaurant has windows around the entire room. This means no matter where you sit you’ll have a gorgeous view while enjoying some fine dining.
If you can swing it, be sure to book your dinner around sunset as you’ll be able to enjoy both the mountains during the day and under the stars. Their menu is shockingly well priced. Meals start at only $60 for their ala cart menu and $84 for their ala cart menu with wine pairings (I’d recommend this as it adds to your experience).
As night falls, it’s time to pile on the layers and lie out under the stars. Aoraki Mount Cook National Park is part of the Dark Sky Reserve. This is a 4,3oo sq/km area which is protected from artificial light pollution. The park is the only Dark Sky Reserve in the entire southern hemisphere. Located inside the park, Mount John Observatory uses this lack of light pollution, to properly be able to study the stars and beyond.
Being inside this Dark Sky Reserve at night means you have some of the best views of the night sky anywhere in the world. There are plenty of stargazing tours you can take part in or use the telescopes at the Hermitage Hotel to get an even better experience. I’d also recommend downloading a stargazing app. The SkyView app is free and one of the best out there. It uses augmented reality to show you various constellations as you move your phone across the sky. It will even show you what planets you might be able to spot as well!
As early as you can manage it the next morning, get up and head out to the Hooker Valley Track. Hiking this trail as the sun rises across the valley is an unimaginable experience. This hike is about 3 hours there and back and is suitable for almost every fitness level. You still need good walking shoes but hiking boots aren’t requires. The hike is free and takes you through the Hooker Valley towards glacial Hooker Lake.
As you go you’ll be able to enjoy the stunning views of the New Zealand mountain ranges all around you. The first large lookout you’ll come to is the Mueller Lake Glacier lookout. You’ll cross over a famous suspension bridges and finally arrive at the Hooker Valley Boardwalk. Hooker Lake is still filled with icebergs so see how many you’re able to spot.
Ok, truthfully Helicopter Rides aren’t for me since I’m terrified to go in one. But so many of my fellow travel companions loved their experience I had to include this! Seeing this enter park from high up in the air would honestly be such an incredible experience. Most of these helicopter flights last around 25-55 minutes (depending on the helicopter company you go with and price you want to pay). They all provide views of the Franz Josef, Fox Glacier, the surrounding lakes and Mount Cook itself. Some of the tours also offer a soft landing in a snowfield with a photo opportunity in the middle of nowhere. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity so while they cost a pretty penny they do give you a vantage point which you can’t find anywhere else.
The Tasman Glacier Trail is a 1-hour return hike perfect for the whole family. A short drive away from the Aoraki Mount Cook Village, this trail leads you to the Tasman Glacier Lake. Upon arriving at the lake, you can see dozens and dozens of floating icebergs. These have all cracked off the huge nearby glacier. This is another great place to come early in the morning to view a gorgeous sunrise view across the valley with Aoraki Mount Cook in the distance
When coming to the Tasman Lake viewpoint you can also book a boat tour which will allow you to get on the water to see these glaciers up close. The kayaking option will take you even closer as you can paddle right up next to these ancient water features.
Be warned, this hike is only for experienced hikers and requires booking in advance! I didn’t do this trek but felt the need to mention it as there might be some among you who came all this way for a real adventure! The Mueller Hut Route takes 3–5 hr one way. Many people opt to do this hike and stay overnight in the hut. Then they return the next morning. This is the main reason that reservations for this hike are required. Summer is the best time to do this hike as during the winter months the trail is even more difficult. You’ll need experience in walking on ice and using ice axes and crampons. They also require practice with route finding and using an avalanche transceiver, probe and shovel.
The hut at the end of the trail lies over 1,800m above sea level. From this tiny hut, you have one of the most stunning views of the nearby Mueller Glacier. By staying the night in the Hueller Hut you can experience the night sky surrounded by nothing but snow-covered mountains. The hut costs $36 NZ per person per night. They also offer guided tours which will be of some help to climbers with experience who still require some assistance with the most difficult portions of the trail. If you are wondering if you will be able to do the hike or not, ask for advice! Park rangers at any information stations are more than welcome to provide advice and assistance.
One of the best hikes to spend your last night in Aoraki Mount Cook is the Red Tarns Track. This 2-hour return hike is relatively easy for anyone with a medium fitness level. The most difficult part of this hike is the steep steps which can be exhausting. But just take your time, that’s always my advice. After gaining over 300 m of elevation you’ll find yourself at this marvelous viewpoint. It looks out over the valleys below and is an optimal place to be at sunset. The area is called the Red Tarns because of the red pond weeds that grows in this area.
The Sir Edmund Hillary Café & Bar at the Hermitage Hotel is one of the best places to say goodbye to this wondrous place. The cafe has outdoor seating which is the perfect place to eat breakfast on your last day. The cafe specializes in classic Kiwi fare like salt and pepper squid, hot cheese toasties, smoked salmon pizza and my favourite, the breakfast bun! Sitting here, looking out at the mountains while sipping my coffee is a memory I’ll never forget. Probably the best breakfast view I’ll ever have 🙂
Let me know in the comments if you’ve ever visited Mount Cook before or what hike you’re most looking forward to visiting on your next trip to New Zealand!
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