Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Flowers
3. Tortillas de Arina
4. Mexican Chili Peppers
5. Moles Miguel
6. Vanilla
7. Dried Fruits & Nuts
8. Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste
9. Fruits and Vegetable Sellers
10. Piñatas
11. Lecheria
12. Sugar Skulls
13. Corn Tortillas
14. Heladería Cubano
15. Meat and Seafood
16. La Morenita de Medellín
17. La Flor de Xochimilco
18. Meche y Rafael Carnitas
19. Outside Street Food
20. La Michoacana
21. Tips for Visiting the Farmer's Market

History

The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by it’s red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior. Lookout on one side for a huge, decorated multicolour mural. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years. When the market was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur.

The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.”

The entire marketplace is now home to over 500 different stalls. While you can have a blast just wandering around on your own, I’ve tried to highlight the key things you should see, buy and which are the best shops to visit!

Flowers

While this market can’t compete with the enormity of the Mercado Jamaica (the largest flower market in the city), the pre-made bouquets you’ll find here, beckoning you in from the street, are lovingly curated. After shopping for their food, we saw various locals come out and buy a bouquet from their favourite seller on their way home. A little something to brighten up their home for the week! Our favourite flower to see was the poinsettias for sale. Poinsettias, known as Flor de Nochebuena, are native to Mexico. In North America, the flowers are usually only seen around Christmas but here they actually grow as small trees or bushes. During the winter months, poinsettias can be spotted all over the streets and sidewalks of Mexico City.

Tortillas de Arina

One of the first stalls to visit is ‘Tortillas de Arina.‘ This tortilleria makes flour tortillas for shops all across the city. Hundreds of tortillas speed off the conveyor belt, and the smell of freshly baked bread invites you to walk up and see what’s happening behind the counter. The word tortilla comes from the Spanish word for cake “torta” and “illa” means little. So it translates, the word for tortilla translates into “little cake.” The flour tortilla is much more popular with people from Northern Mexico. The close proximity to the border markets allowed Northern Mexicans to get inferior grade wheat flour, which they could make cheaply into flour tortillas. People who have moved from the northern provinces to Mexico City come here often to get their fix of wheat tortillas. Wheat tortillas are only usually only paired with Northern Mexican dishes.

Mexican Chili Peppers

This is one of the best markets to find fresh, Mexican Chili Peppers! There are five main chillies to see (perhaps even buy to take home with you); the Ancho, the Mulato, the Pasilla, the Morita and the Guajillo. The ancho chilli is the dried version of a poblano pepper. Ancho peppers are used in mole and many other recipes. Ancho is so popular because it has a subtle flavour with a hint of sweetness. Next up is the mulato chilli, also in mole. The mulato chihlli is also derived from the poblano pepper but picked when it first ripens, making it slightly spicier.

Pasilla chili

The final ingredient in the trifecta of mole chillies is the pasilla chilli. The pasilla are dried from chilaca peppers and are the darkest in colour. They are also much thinner and much spicier! Morita chipotles are chillies made by smoking ripe jalapeno peppers. These chipotles are not as strong in terms of a smokey flavour as some other, so really with this version, you get the best of both worlds.

The final chilles to find in the market is the guajillo chilli. Guajillo’s are long, flat, but small and are one of the spiciest varieties. Small packs a punch that’s for sure! It was so fascinating getting to touch and smell these chillies. The ones we get at home are so hard and almost crispy, but these dried peppers were soft and almost leathery. So if you’re a cook and want to make any Mexican recipe, these chillies are imperative to buy from these markets. Just be sure you know the customs regulations regarding these vegetables and always declare them to be sure.

Moles Miguel

Find your way to Moles Miguel, one of the most famous mole sellers in the market. This family-owned store sells pre-made mole pastes in different varieties. I never knew there were so many! If you ask nicely, they might even let you try a few before buying. Some of the most popular varieties are black mole, named for its super dark colour. This one is made with lots of cocoa beans (making it quite bitter). This one also has a more cinnamony taste than the rest. Then there is the red mole, made with dried red chiles like pasilla, guajillo and ancho. Finally, you’ve got the mole poblano. This version, in my opinion, is the best of them all. It’s sweet (but not too sweet) and just the right amount of smoke flavour.

Vanilla

Mexico is the birthplace of vanilla, and there is really no better place to buy it. Although the authentic extract is delicious, its even better to buy the bean pods fresh from sellers like you’ll find in these marketplaces. Fresh seeds are so much more fragrant than the extract since they aren’t diluted in alcohol.

Dried Fruits & Nuts

Dried fruits, nuts and seeds can be found all over the market, stashed away inside large tubs and baskets. Walnuts, called Castile nuts in Mexico, are of enormous importance during the late summer. Walnuts are a key ingredient to make one of Mexico’s most famous dishes, “chiles en nogada.” This dish is made with spicy green poblano peppers, stuffed with chopped meat and raisins. The dish is then topped with a thick sauce made from only cheese and ground walnuts. A sprinkling of pomegranate seeds creates the colours of the Mexican flag all in one dish!

The recipe was invited in honour of the leader of the Mexican uprising against the Spanish in the 19th century. Since the recipes invention, the dish eaten to celebrate Mexico’s Independence. Ironically, nuts were brought to Mexico by the Spaniards themselves. Almonds and peanuts are also an essential ingredient in mole as they add that deep, nutty flavour to the dish. Dried fruits from Mexico are beyond fresh, soft and flavourful. They are the perfect snack to stash away in your bag for an afternoon snack.

Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste

Many of the shops in the market sell pre-made mixes and pastes. From these you can create a myriad of Mexican recipes. Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste sells them all in one place. One of the most famous recipes in Mexican cuisine is Cochinita Pibil. The key ingredient to this recipe is Achiote paste. Achiote seeds are a traditional Aztec ingredient. The achiote paste is made from steeping the seeds in oil or lard. It’s thought to be like the saffron of Mexico. It’s so popular due to its sweet, earthy and peppery flavour. Buy it here and bring home to impress your friends.

Fruits and Vegetable Sellers

There are so many stands in this marketplace that have been run by the same family for generations. The food found here is an amalgamation of both locals and imported foods. Together they create the fabric of Mexico’s culinary culture.

A popular Mexican fruit that you may never have heard of is the mamey fruit. The mamey fruit has a rough rind, but a soft, coral coloured flesh underneath. When perfectly ripe, it tastes like a cross between a sweet potato and an orange. You’ll find these on menus all over Mexico, often as part of a beverage or served atop puddings.

Another odd ingredient you’ll find here is the nopal or cactus. “A cactus, you say?” Certain parts of the cactus are indeed edible and, when appropriately cooked, are shockingly delicious! To prepare the nopal, you slice off the exterior, scrap the spine, cut into slices, and boil with some simple spices. It’s incredibly cheap but very hearty food.

One of the last ingredients you might be on the lookout for is the tomatillo. You might know the tomatillo by its North American name, “green tomato”. But the Tomatillos found here in Mexico City as far different. They are much smaller and bursting with flavour. Tomatillos are used in all sorts of dishes. You can find them in salsas, salads and even soups! Tomatillos in the market are on display with their delicate pale husk on, which is removed before eating.

Piñatas

One thing which this market had plenty of is pinata makers. You can homemade pinatas all over the market. Some of which are still in the process of being made from scratch. When pinatas were first introduced to Mexico from Spain, they were symbolic of the Catholic belief in the deadly sins. The first pinatas weren’t shaped like Hello Kitty or Superman; they were seven-pointed stars, with each point representing a mortal sin. The person being blindfolded represented humanity’s blind faith in God needed to resist these temptations. The participant was spun around 33 times, once for every year of Christ’s life. Then the stick is used to beat the sins out of the faithful, and the candy and fruit represented the rewards for keeping the faith. You can still find these original designs in the marketplace today!

One of the oldest fruits to be included in the pinata was the tejocote. These are still sold today in the market, but have been replaced for sweet candy inside the pinatas. These Aztec fruits resemble a crabapple and are both similar in taste and shape but have the most beautiful golden colour.

Lecheria

Along the back wall, you can find a huge lecheria, which is Spanish for ‘dairy’ which sells a variety of cheese produced from local farms. My favourite is Oaxaca cheese. Oaxaca cheese is made from soft, stretched-curd cheese, made with cows’ milk. It pulls apart, almost like a cheese string (for those 90s kids reading), and if often served atop meals as it melts quickly and adds that perfect salty, umami flavour. The most interesting of the cheeses was the chihuahua, which is made from a Mennonite community in Mexico. Chihuahua cheese is relatively simple, with a buttery, yet sharp taste but very popular since its gentle flavour allows it to be paired well with most dishes.

See if you can also find or try some membrillo, which is a jelly made with quince juice and honey to be served alongside cheese. Together with the salty cheese, this sweet jam is perfection.

Sugar Skulls

Dia de Los Muertos (or Day of the Dead) was an Aztec ritual that celebrated the lives of those who were deceased. Despite the Spaniards attempt to rid the country of this sacred holiday, the ceremony remained. Eventually, it was blended together with the Catholic celebration of All Saints Day on November 1st. Traditional sugar skulls are a highly respected part of the day of the Dead rituals. Sugar was brought to Mexico in the 17th century by Italian missionaries. Sugar cane was so easy to grow in Mexico, so there became an abundance of it in the country.

History of Sugar Skulls

As Mexico was converting to Catholicism, it found that their churches didn’t match up to the opulence of the ones in Europe. Mexico didn’t have enough money to import decorations or cover their churches in gold. But what they did have was sugar, which they could produce cheaply and in vast quantities. So, using clay moulds, they used sugar to create angels, crosses and more to decorate the interior of their churches. Eventually, these kinds of decorations made their way into the celebrations of Day of the Dead. Sugar skulls were created to represent the soul of the departed, and their name was written upon the forehead of the sugar skull. They were then laid on the grave or ofrenda to honour the spirit of the beloved one who had past. You can find still these sugar skulls in the marketplaces around Day of the Dead.

Corn Tortillas

Freshly made Corn Tortillas can be found inside the market. Corn Tortillas were first invented around 10,000 BC when corn was domesticated in Mexico. Corn was linked to life in Mexico. It was their primary source of carbs (which equals energy). During the Aztec empire, one of the most popular dishes was tortillas, with chilli sauce, beans and squash. Today local workers still come to tortillerias to get fresh tortillas, salsa, rice and beans, which they will bring to the worksite to enjoy for their lunch. Just like it was thousands of years ago. Some things never change…

Heladería Cubano

Towards the back of the market, stop at Heladería Cubano. The kind gentleman behind the counter serves up Cuban ice cream and milkshakes. The milkshakes are made with fresh creme, sugar, ice (made from filtered water) and your choice of fresh fruit. He also can add malt to the milkshakes, which give you that retro flavour. Such an exciting thing to find in the middle of a Mexican marketplace but not at all unwelcome. The Cuban ice cream maker is famous in the market for his natural flavours and thick creamy ice cream!

Meat and Seafood

Take a step into the fresh meat and seafood area. Definitely the most fragrant area of the market but still very exciting. People are always yelling joyfully at each other from across the room and large meat cleavers can be heard smashing into hunks of beef and pork all across the room. This is usually where there is the most action, with locals, home cooks and restaurant chefs, coming here to buy their meats for the day.

La Morenita de Medellín

One of the most popular eateries in the market is ‘Marisquería,’ also known as “La Morenita de Medellín.” This is one of the only places in landlocked Mexico City where you can reliably find incredible seafood! Hidden away inside this marketplace, you can try red snapper from Veracruz, fish covered in garlic and chilis, pulpo al ajillo (cooked octopus), the devil’s oysters (oysters cooked in butter) and Mexican paella (which came over with Spanish). Reliably a great option if you’re craving seafood!

La Flor de Xochimilco

La Flor de Xochimilco is one of the most popular eateries inside the market. They specialize in taco de barbacoa. Barbacoa actually originates from the Caribbean. Taco de barbacoa refers to slow-cooked meats, over an open fire. The meat is cooked till its super tender. Then tacos are served with diced onions, cilantro and lime juice to help cut the fatty taste of the meat. If you’ve never had a barbacoa taco, this is a must!

Meche y Rafael Carnitas

At the back corner, hidden away, if THE place for carnitas, Meche y Rafael! Unfortunately, it’s only open on Saturdays. Pork was introduced to Mexico by the Spanish in the 16th century. Carnitas is a Spanish word that means “little meats.” Carnitas are made using lean pork mean, which is sliced and marinated in seasoning for hours. The fat cut from the meat is used for frying the carnitas before they are eaten. This carnitas stand serves up with bountiful portions alongside slices of the city’s best chicharrón. Douse the tacos with plenty of salsa and pickled radishes to cut the grease; while it might not be the healthiest food, it might be the most delicious.

Outside Street Food

Around the perimeter of the marketplace, are always a few reliable street food stands, run by some of the nicest local women. If you’re looking for something delicious to try, order up the tlacoyo. Tlacoyo is made from blue corn dough and filled with beans. It’s then fried on the grill. Once cooked, they are garnished with Oaxaca or cotija cheese, nopales, salsa and chicharrón. So filling, delicious and impossibly cheap! If you’re there earlier in the morning, be sure to try their breakfast version, which was made with fried potatoes with chorizo. It’s fantastic!

La Michoacana

If you are looking to sample an agua fresca, hit up the La Michoacana. La Michoacana is actually a chain of ice cream parlours in Mexico City. And although their ice cream is never quite up to snuff, their agua frescas are reliably some of the best! Just ask anyone behind the counter if they’re made with filtered water (agua pura) to be sure it’s safe to drink. Agua frescas are more than just juice, they are these incredible beverages flavoured with uniquely Mexican flavours like tamarind, hibiscus, and horchata!

Tips for Visiting the Farmer’s Market

• Always bring cash and small change. Most marketplaces don’t take credit cards, and if you plan on haggling at all, don’t even think about using a credit card. Cash is king in the market. But big bills won’t work either. Most of these sellers won’t have a lot of change, and early in the day, you might find that don’t have change at all. I always keep a stash of coins with me at all times to ensure I have the exact amount when shopping in markets like these. Having small coins is also important for using public washrooms in places like this, as most charge 5 pesos for the bathroom.
  
• Beware of Pickpockets. Although this marketplace is much less of a target than some of the most touristy markets in other parts of town, you should always be aware of your surroundings. Keep your money in safe places, not easily accessible by someone else. For me, I keep some smaller change in my pockets and any bigger bills deep in my bag, where it would take some time to access. But honestly, just keeping your awareness of what and who is around you is the most important part of keeping safe.

• Ask before touching any food. Most of the seller won’t mind if you touch the food, in fact to buy some fruits and vegetables you need to give it a squeeze to see if it’s ripe! But some tourists touch EVERYTHING and it really bothers the sellers. I’ve seen some tourists come in and mess up their entire display without so much as moving one thing back into place. Just ask nicely if you can look or touch something and respect what the seller responds with. But honestly, just asking will win you over with them!

• Think before taking a picture. Some of the vendors inside the more touristy markets take umbrage with tourists taking photos of their stalls. The main reason for this is they don’t always want to be on camera but also, they don’t see themselves as a tourist attraction. They would prefer you to buy something instead of just taking pictures and yet walking away without contributing to any of the vendors who need money to keep their businesses running. I always look for a “no photos” sign first before taking a picture since that’s pretty clear cut. Often, I’ll even ask the vendors if it’s ok. If you’re purchased something you’re almost always ok to take a picture since the seller knows you’re not just using them as a prop, but actually care about the product.

• Travel Light. These types of markets are fairly crowded, with narrow aisles and products overflowing over the edges of the counters. This means carrying a huge backpack with you might not be the best idea. I would stick to a small bag for your shopping and a crossbody bag for your valuables.
  
• Be friendly. Locals are proud of their produce. Some of these farmers sell the very things they harvested that morning to shoppers. Giving them a smile, a hello, goodbye or good afternoon goes a long way in acclimatizing yourself into this neighbourhood market.

• If you don’t recognize something, don’t be afraid! Trying new things is what travelling is all about! The food at this market is incredibly fresh. These stands only stay open until 4 or 5 pm so the turn over is daily and nothing just gets left behind. The only thing I really avoid is water washed veggies, like salads, but anything cooked is fair game!

Learn some key Spanish phrases

When shopping in a local market like this you might not find a lot of people who speak English. To make a good impression and fit in with the locals, try to learn a few phrases. The most important phrases are the ones to do with prices so you’ll understand how much everything costs. I would recommend avoiding any haggling if you don’t speak Spanish competently since you’ll get over your head pretty fast.

Here are some of my key phrases for shopping:
good morning // Buenos días
good afternoon // buenas tardes
goodbye // adiós
how much? // Cuánto cuesta?
one, two, three // uno, dos, tres
What is this? // ¿Que es esto?
Thank you // Gracias
no, thank you // no, gracias
Can I touch? // ¿Puedo tocar?
Can I take a photo? // ¿Puedo tomar una foto?  

We first came to the market on a guided tour with Casa Jacaranda. I cannot recommend their cooking experience more so if you are interested in learning more about Mexican cuisine and Markets in Mexico check them out!

The post Guide To Exploring the Vibrant Medellin Market in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Paseo de Reforma Guide

1. Paseo de la Reforma History
2. Free Bikes
3. ECOBICI
4. Scooter Rentals
5. Sidewalk Fun!
6. Shopping
7. Street Food
8. Self-Guided Tour of Paseo de la Reforma

Paseo de la Reforma History

Paseo de la Reforma is one of the most extensive avenues in the city. The street connects many different neighbourhoods together and feels like the veins which keep the heart of the city beating. It was designed in the 1860s after the grande avenues in Europe. It was built to connect Emperor Maximilian’s new imperial residence, Chapultepec Castle, to the rest of the city. Today, the Paseo de la Reforma is where you can still see some of the most magnificent architectural masterpieces in town. It is also one area of the city with the most exciting landscape architecture and flower arrangements.

Care-Free Sundays

Most of the time, this broad avenue is one of the busiest streets in the city, with that iconic sound of honking horns and the rumble of idling cars. But on Sundays, between 8:00 am, and 2:00 pm, all cars are banned from the street and the entire roadway is dedicated to bikes, scooters, runners, and pedestrians. The whole avenue transforms, suddenly it feels almost quiet (at least in comparison to during the week.) Children can be heard laughing as they cruise down the road, perhaps learning how to ride a bike for the first time. This is definitely not a touristy event, although tourists are more than welcome. This is a community-driven initiative to bring people outside to enjoy their city together without vehicles – which in a city as busy as Mexico City, is a real treat!

I couldn’t believe this when I first saw it. This isn’t a small street, it’s enormous! I couldn’t imagine Toronto agreeing to shut down its major roadway once a week just for the community to enjoy. It would be chaos. But everything seemed to run as usual here, and thousands of people come out every week to enjoy the event! The idea for this was dreamt up by Muevete en Bici.

Organization

After their initial proposal, the government-backed the campaign to help improve the lifestyles and health of the residents of Mexico City. The volunteers who help out every week, bring these huge signs, which they spread across the streets, when they need to stop the bikers and pedestrians for through traffic. The signs announce upcoming events or give advice and tips on bike and scooter safety. Some of the volunteers are extra enthusiastic and love to sing and dance when it’s time to get going once more. They were definitely a huge part of making this event so much fun!

Free Bikes

If you’re looking to rent a bike and aren’t too fussy about its condition, then head to the Glorieta de la Palma roundabout. Get there early in the day for the best selection. At this intersection, you’ll find a large white tent where you can rent a bike for free. This is part of the campaign, and the government offers free bike rental for a maximum of two hours. All you need is ID, which they keep until you return the bike. I would bring a driver’s licenses to hand over since I know that turning over your passport can feel a bit scary, but trust me, it’s okay.

Cost of Bike Rental

You’ll fill out a form with a phone number where you can be reached. After you’ve filled out the form, you’ll be given a ticket that corresponds with your ID to get when you return the bike. Then you can head off, just be sure to return before the two hours is up, or face a 50 peso fine (albeit, that’s a very cheap fine and might be worth it for that extra bit of time experiencing the streets). Just be sure to return before 2 pm since that’s when they close down.

ECOBICI

ECOBICI is Mexico’s City public bike-sharing system. The service allows registered users to take a bike at any bike station with unlimited 45 minutes trips. This means that as long as you return your bike after 45 minutes, you’ll only have to pay the one-time registration fee. This is great since there are many stations along the route, so you can bike for a bit, return your bike, have some street food and then continue on your way with another bike, starting up a new 45-minute session. The system just requires you to register online. As a tourist, I would recommend the 1 or 3-day subscription. A 3-day subscription will cost you $208 (pesos), and a 1-day is $104 (pesos).

One day is perfect if you only think you’ll want the bike on Sunday, but if you want to do a little bit more biking, the 3-day pass is the choice for you. If you happen to go over your 45-minute session, you’ll be charged a small fee, but nothing to freak out over. These bikes are in much better condition than the free bikes and you also have the freedom to cruise around all day, instead of being restricted to 2 hours.

Scooter Rentals

Since we had rented bikes in the city before, we wanted to try out their new scooter rental systems. We loved renting scooters in Calgary when we visited in the Fall and so sought out some scooters for the ride along Reforma. Multiple companies rent out scooters in the city. The one we found to be the easiest to use, the most tourist-friendly and with the one with the most scooters available, was Bird Scooters. Bird is a worldwide company, so if you happen to have used the app anywhere else in the world, you’ll be fine to use it here. And you won’t need to do anything special to your account or payment settings. If you don’t have an account, you’ll just need to download the app and register with a credit card.

Cost of Scooter Rental

You will need a roaming cellular phone for these apps to work properly. I’ve tried just being on wifi to unlock and re-lock the bikes and find that too often something goes wrong, and you don’t want to be unduly charged. Use the app to find scooters near you, there are always tons, fully charged around Paseo de la Reforma on Sundays. To unlock the scooter it costs $20 pesos ($1 USD), and each minute of your ride is $2 pesos. If you choose to ride for an hour, the cost is a fixed $140 pesos ($7 USD), including the unlock fee. Use the Bird Scooter Promo Code: M3J31Y to get your first ride free!

While I love biking, cruising around on the scooter felt like such a different experience, perhaps just because it was new to me. It was indescribably fun! And because the road was smooth and car-free, it felt totally safe. It was such a wonderful opportunity to try out a new mode of transportation. We loved it so we got brave enough to ride them around the rest of the city over the course of our trip, albeit on the sidewalks.

Sidewalk Fun!

On either side of the sidewalk along Paseo de la Reforma, you’ll find a variety of exhibitions throughout the year. We were lucky enough to be there at the tail end of the Dias de los Muertos celebrations. Everywhere we walked there were bright and colourful skeletons lounging on benches, peeking out of the bushes or just watching over the streets. I can only imaging how amazing it was during the actual festival!

Day of the Dead

On either side of the sidewalk were enormous sculptures of the Day of the Dead skulls. Each one was the made from the same mould, but the way they were painted or decorated were entirely different, depending on each individual artist’s style. My husband’s favourite was definitely the Lucha Libre themed one, but mine, of course, were the ones embellished with jewels!

Also along the sidewalks were the papier-mache sculptures of super-sized Alebrijes. These brightly coloured folk art sculptures depict fantastical, mythical creatures. These larger than life sculptures were actually a part of the Day of the Dead parade but were put back on display here for the public to admire even if they didn’t get to attend the ceremonies. It was awesome to get up close to these works of art and study the incredible patterns which cover the creatures.

Shopping

Since there is such an influx of pedestrian traffic on Sundays, this is seen as a great opportunity for vendors to come out as well. If you’re looking for handicrafts, I was shocked to see how many sellers came out with their goods along the sidewalk. I thought perhaps that the prices might be a little inflated since it was a makeshift marketplace but after a week of shopping, I realized everything I bought here (even without haggling) was much cheaper than anywhere else in the city! And there were so many items I saw here that I never saw anywhere else, even the Artisan Market!

I always go with the motto that if you see something you like and can afford it, just buy it when you see it. Since you don’t know if you’ll ever find it again. I’ve passed on so many things I’ve found on the street, thinking I’ll either buy it later or find a better price, only to be disappointed later when neither of those things happen. And trust me, the regret was REAL!

Street Food

In addition to souvenirs and handcrafted items, you’ll also find a ton of street food! All that activity can work up an appetite, so the food vendors are sure to be there to satisfy all your cravings. The fruits were my favourite choice since they were so cool after a hot ride out in the sun. I honestly think fresh cut fruit, covered in lime, chili and salt might be my favourite snack of all time!

The candy, nuts and dried fruit sellers were also another one of our favourite stands. You could get an entire bag of candy or nuts for 30 pesos! And the ones which were out here allowed you to mix and match so you could get a little bit of anything you wanted.

Self-Guided Tour of Paseo de la Reforma

While you can have such a great time just cruising down the avenue, enjoying the peaceful ride and beautiful environment, below is a little guide to the various monuments and buildings which are worth a quick stop beside to admire. I would recommend starting the day at the intersection of Río Ródano and the Avenue de la Reforma. Unless you’re picking up a free bike at the Glorieta de la Palma roundabout, Río Ródano is a great starting location as you have a gorgeous view all down the avenue as you begin your journey. If you do need to pick up a free bike at Glorieta de la Palma, just make a loop down to Río Ródano from Glorieta de la Palma to begin this tour.

Estela de Luz

At the start of Paseo de la Reforma, you’ll find the giant shining edifice, which is the Estela de Luz or Light Trail. This was a monument that was built in 2011 to commemorate the bicentenary of Mexico’s independence from Spanish rule. The steel structure is covered in quartz panels with aluminum frames. These are lit with electric LEDs, which create a spectacular light show at night. In the daytime, though, the quartz still reflects the sunlight creating an almost sparkling effect. This building was an incredibly contentious structure as it went massively over budget. Also, despite being designed for the bicentenary, construction delays resulted in it not being unveiled until well after the anniversary it was built for.

Torre Mayor

On the north side of the street as you set off is the Torre Mayor. The Torre Mayor (or Major Tower) is the third tallest building in Mexico, standing 225 meters tall with 55 stories going up! As someone who lives in Toronto, I found it interesting to learn that the building was designed and built by Canadians at architectural firms in Toronto, my home town! Although the building is astonishingly tall, it was built with a complex design to ensure it is earthquake resistant! It is designed to withstand earthquakes measuring 8.5 on the Richter Scale. The devastating earthquake which hit Mexico City in the 1980s hit 8.1 on the Richter Scale, so their hope was to ensure it could withstand an even stronger quake.

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Diana the Huntress Fountain

At the intersection of Reforma and Sevilla, you’ll find the great fountain of Diana the Huntress. The fountain was built in 1942 when President Manuel Avila Camacho decided to start an initiative of beautification along the Paseo de la Reforma. Juan Francisco Olaguíbel sculpted the piece, and it was revealed to the public on October 10th, 1942. Despite its fantastical artistry, the sculpture was met with outrage by an ultra-conservative group called the “Decency League.” They were angered by the fact that the goddess was presented in the nude and insisted the artist create bronze underwear to cover her up. With much public pressure, he obliged, and the statue wore awkward and unbecoming bronze underwear for 25 years.

In 1968, Mexico City won the bid for the Olympics, and the committee thought it was time to do away with the ugly undergarment in favour of the original design. So finally, just before the Olympics, she was revealed to the world as the artist first intended. Today you can still see her holding her bow and arrow up towards the sky.

The Angel of Independence

One of the largest roundabouts along the street is marked by the golden Angel of Independence or Ángel de la Independencia. As someone who spent some time in Berlin, I thought upon first glance, I was back in Germany. And this is not just my age getting to me, the statue was designed to resemble the Berlin Victory Column located along their great promenade. President Porfirio Díaz requested its construction as a tribute for the centennial of Mexico’s War of Independence against the Spanish. Designed by architect Antonio Rivas Mercado, it was inaugurated in 1910. For years it became a meeting point for celebrations and protests, and throughout the years, it was also used as a mausoleum for heroes of the war of independence.

Antiques Center Plaza del Angel

If you’re looking to take a quick break, park your bike and head down to the Antiques Center Plaza del Angel. On Saturdays and Sundays, this complex houses antique vendors selling vintage stuff. There are plenty of super unique treasures you can uncover here spread out across this square.

Beatricita

If you’re hungry for more than just street food, check out Beatricita, just off the Paseo de la Reforma. Some people call this place the best tacos in the city! The restaurant was established by Beatriz Muciño Reyes, in 1887 when she immigrant to Mexico City with her brother Claudio. Together they opened this restaurant and have been serving up some of the best traditional Mexican cuisine at amazing prices, right in the heart of the city. If you’re there before lunch, try the chilaquiles with eggs, pork rinds in green salsa!

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Miguel Ramos Arizpe

Along either side of the street, on the sidewalks, you’ll find various bronze statues on marble pillars, representing various important people from Mexico’s history. Just ahead of Angel of Independence on the south side of the street is the statue of Miguel Ramos Arizpe. Miguel Ramos Arizpe was a Mexican priest and politician and also known as the father of Mexican federalism.

Glorieta de La Palma

The next roundabout you’ll come to is the Glorieta de La Palma. While the center of the roundabout doesn’t feature a statue or fountain, it does hold pride of place to the great palm tree, which gave the area its name. Palm trees are one of Mexico’s greatest exports, and today they can be found all over the world. They truly do deserve to be lauded just as much as the other historical personalities. One of the most impressive things to see at this roundabout while you’re waiting for the lights to change is the Bolsa Mexicana de Valores. The Bolsa Mexicana de Valores is where you can find the Mexican Stock Exchange. It was built inside this futuristic, disco ball-inspired building, which almost everyone ponders at as they pass by.

Monument to the Emperor Cuauhtémoc

Intersecting the Avenue des Insurgentes and Reforma is the monument dedicated to Emperor Cuauhtémoc. These two avenues are two of the largest and most important in the city and standing in the centre is, by no coincidence, one of the most critical figures in Mexico City’s history. Emperor Cuauhtémoc was the last Aztec ruler of Tenochtitlan (the Aztec name for Mexico City). He ruled only for a year, from 1520 to 1521, but his impact was enormous.

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The name Cuauhtemōc means “one who has descended like an eagle.” Eagles attacked their prey, first by scoping them out from above, and then quickly plummeting, straight down, to attack and devour. This is a name that implies aggressiveness and determination. When Cuauhtémoc became emperor, he was an energetic 25-year old, whose beloved country was being attacked by the Spanish. They had brought not only the war but also a plague of smallpox, which was devastating his country.

Battle of 1519

Cuauhtémoc led the last battle of the Mexican people against the Spaniards in 1519. The Mexican army was defeated, and Cuauhtémoc was captured. He was subject to torture by fire to give up his people but never lamented. Scenes from this great torture can be found on a bas relief on the monument he stands upon. After months of pain, he was eventually executed by the Spanish, but his heroic memory lives on today.

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Jardín del Arte

Take a little detour northwest, towards the Jardín del Arte. On Sundays, along the Rio Nevada, you can find the green gardens covered in the paintings and artworks from over 100 artists. If you’re looking for high quality artworks from Mexican artists, this is definitely the place to go!

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Monument to Christopher Columbus

In complete opposition to the previous statue, the next roundabout is marked by the Monument to Christopher Columbus. It was made in 1877 by French sculptor Charles Cordier. Usually, when you pass this one by, you’ll see that it is covered in graffiti and protest signs since many locals would like it to be removed. The monument presents Columbus on top of a large pink pedestal. His arm stretched out, with his foot resting atop a globe beneath his feet. It presents Columbus as both the discoverer of the new world and the founder of the catholic church in Mexico.

Around the base of the pedestal are four other men, seated around Columbus, who represent the catholic missionaries who converted the native people of the Americas to Catholicism. Many Mexicans oppose this statue as it presents Columbus as the hero when many indigenous people see him as the man who took their great land and culture away from them. Over the years, there has been almost constant vandalization of the statue as a means of protest.

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Plaza de la República

Take a short detour from here, up along Ignacio Ramírez towards the Plaza de la República. This enormous square is dominated by the imposing copper-domed Monumento a la Revolución (Monument of the Revolution). Designed by Mexican architect Carlos Obregón Santacilia, it is still today considered the tallest triumphal arch in the world. The project took over 27 years to complete due to multiple revolutions and changes in government. It originally was started as a project by French architect Émile Bénard who wanted the entire piece to be designed in French renaissance style. He even imported iron and marble from Italy rather than just using local materials.

But after the Mexican Revolution and a new, more nationalistic president, the project was handed over to Mexican architect Carlos Obregón Santacilia who dedicated the structure to the heroes of the Mexican Revolution. Santacilia removed the renaissance appearance from the facade and replaced it with the art deco style which was more prevalent in Mexico City. He also added his own unique socialist realism style to the designs as well. Surrounding the dome, Mexican sculptor Oliverio Martínez created four stone sculptural groups that represent Independence, the Reform Laws, Agrarian Laws, and Labor Laws. They stand facing the square, perhaps overseeing the people to ensure they are obeying those very laws. Today you can ride the glass elevator in the centre, 65 meters up into the observation deck where you have a great view all across the city.

Edificio El Moro

Head back down the Avenue de la República until you get to the intersection of Avenue Juarez and Reforma. Here stands the Edificio El Moro and the Loteria Nacional or National Lottery offices. These are located inside the fantastical art deco masterpiece Edificio El Moro. The building was designed in 1945 as one of the first skyscrapers in Mexico City and for a time, was the tallest building in the city.

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The King of Spain Sculpture

In front of the building is a huge yellow, modernist sculpture designed by sculptor Sebastián. Sebastián is a world-renown sculptor who works primarily in steel to create fantastical abstract sculptures. This one he calls, King Carlos of Spain, as it is thought to mimic the shape of a king on horseback.

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You can keep biking or scooting to your leisure from here, but I find that this extent of the roadway provides the most exciting things to see. Past this point, there is also little entertainment or food vendors. Sunday mornings in Reforma are honestly just the best thing you can do with your time. It allows you to explore the city in a relaxing and freeing way. See it from a unique perspective. Discover new foods along the sidewalks. Buy local handicrafts and more! It’s everything you want from Mexico City, all in one place! Hopefully, you can see it for yourself on your next trip to Mexico.

What is your favourite way of exploring a new city? Let me know in the comments.

Happy Travels Adventurers

The post The Best Way to Spend a Sunday Morning in Mexico City, a Wonderful Bike Ride Along Paseo de la Reforma first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

But I read review after review and had to check it out for myself. And let me say, perhaps as a bit of a spoiler, I now understand why this is such a perfect experience. Casa Jacaranda offers more than just a cooking class. It’s a whole day of activities, discoveries, learning opportunities and a chance to make new friends.

Table Of Contents

1. About Casa Jacaranda
2. The Casa Jacaranda Cooking Class Experience
3. Mercado Medellín
4. Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor
5. Roma Norte
6. Casa Jacaranda
7. The Menu
8. Making the Mole
9. Tamales
10. Cocktails
11. Rooftop Dinner
12. Prices:
13. Group Rates:

About Casa Jacaranda

The classes are offered Tuesday through Saturday. Beto Estúa and Jorge Fitz are the co-owners of Casa Jacaranda, and either one or both of them will join you on your culinary journey, depending on class size and availability.

Most classes are held in English, although there are some classes available in Spanish. The small class size (typically 6-8 people) means that you feel close with everyone there but have enough people to quickly cook these huge menus!

The day begins at 10 am and ends around 4:30 pm, so you really do get an entire day’s worth of entertainment out of the whole experience. The price per adult is $180 USD and children are $120 USD. While this might seem expensive, as mentioned, you get an entire day’s worth of entertainment and indulgence. Trust me on this, it’s worth every peso.

The Casa Jacaranda Cooking Class Experience

Mercado Medellín

The day began at the Mercado Medellín, in Roma Sur. The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by it’s red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior with stunning multicolour murals painted above. We stood at the meeting spot, just under the market’s sign, and met the other travelling cooks, two fellow Canadians and a mother-son duo from America. They were immediately so friendly and just as excited as we were! Beto arrived with his traditional shopping bags and his assistant in tow. He happily introduced himself to the group, and we collectively decided on the dishes we were set to prepare for the day.

About the Market

Before heading into the market. Beto took a moment outside to tell us all about the history of the market. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years, although the more modern appearance is from renovations after the earthquake. When the marketplace was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur. The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. They sold both to locals who were interested in trying something new and other immigrants who wanted a taste of home.

Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.” The entire space is now home to over 500 different stalls. If you were simply a regular tourist, this could be overwhelming, but Beto made sure to take us to all his favourite stalls and show us what you needed to see! Every one of them knew him by name and would wear a huge smile on their faces as we approached.

Mexican Chili Peppers

Our guide took us through the market to various sellers where we picked up ingredients for our meal. One of the most important ingredients in Mexican cuisine are chili peppers. Many of these peppers were going to be present in a few of our recipes, so it was essential to learn all about them! Some peppers have different names depending on if they are dried or fresh. In this market alone, we stopped and smelled over 15 different kinds of peppers. We learned where they were grown and how each of them could be used in various recipes. Some of the peppers were heavily smoked in addition to being dry, and it was amazing to smell the differences between just a dried pepper and a smoked and dried pepper.

Fruits and Vegetable Sellers

Next up, we visited the local fruits and veggie sellers, which is Beto’s favourite in the marketplace. This one stand has been run by the same family for five generations. He explained to us all about the different varieties of vegetables you can find in a traditional Mexican garden. In one garden beds, pretty much anywhere in Mexico, you can grow everything you need to sustain yourself. Beto told us all about which fruits and veggies were originally from Mexico and which were imported early in its colonization. Today, all of these are used together to form the fabric of Mexico’s culinary culture.

One of the oldest fruits to be included in the pinata was the Tejocote. These are still sold today in the market, but rarely are they always included in the pinatas. These Aztec fruits resemble a crabapple and are both similar in taste and shape but have the most wonderful golden colour.

Street Food

After looking at all this food, it was finally time to try some for ourselves. Just before the lunch rush, we headed to the back of the market, where a few ladies were preparing tlacoyo. You’ve probably seen tlacoyo all over the city but, if you were like me, had no idea what was in them. They’re made from blue corn dough and filled with beans and then fried on the grill. Once cooked, they are garnished with Oaxaca or cotija cheese, nopales, salsa and chicharrón.

We also tried out their breakfast version, which was made with fried potatoes cooked with chorizo. It was fantastic!

Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor

This brought us to the end of the marketplace tour, so we headed on our way over to Casa Jacaranda. On our way, we past Beto’s favourite tortilla makers, Molino Y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor. Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor hand makes corn tortilla, made from fresh masa every day. The kind old man behind the counter would grab a hot one fresh off the press and hand it to us to taste. You would first sprinkle some salt on top, then some salsa (spicy of course) and roll it up before eating it to ensure the salsa and salt was in every bite.

Corn tortillas were first invented around 10,000 BC when corn was domesticated in Mexico. Corn was life in Mexico, as it was their primary source of carbs (which equal energy). During the Aztec empire, one of the most popular dishes was tortillas, with chilli sauce, beans and squash. Today local workers still come to tortillerias to get fresh tortillas, salsa, rice and beans, which they will bring to the worksite to enjoy for their lunch. Just like it was thousands of years ago. Some things never change…

Roma Norte

The streets around Beto’s house were rich with incredible architecture. This neighbourhood was originally designed for the upper class in the early twentieth century, so they found the finest designers and architects to make masterfully houses. Art deco and neo-classical designs reign supreme here as do the enormous Jacaranda trees which line the streets, creating a canopy over the entire block.

Casa Jacaranda

Casa Jacaranda is named as such due to the rich collection of old Jacaranda trees on the street and the large one which hangs over Beto’s house. Jacaranda trees arrived in Mexico City from Brazil. Their large canopy and bright lavender blooms made them a hot commodity for any burgeoning neighbourhood!

When we first walked through the doors at Casa Jacaranda, we were gobsmacked. I had expected a simple kitchen or workspace, but what we found was a gorgeously restored and renovated 1930’s house. It was decorated floor to ceiling in beautiful works of art, historical ephemera and knickknacks, which represent the cultures and culinary traditions of Mexico. There were also so many personal mementos and pictures around the house, it truly made us feel at home. I found it hard to get my head in the game to cook since all I wanted to do was pour through the bookshelves and study the paintings on the wall.

The Menu

There are a variety of options for the menu which you’ll make with the group. Although some of us had reviewed the website and knew the options, we needed to make a choice as a group as to what we wanted to cook. We opted for the mole since we felt it had the richest in history, and we were all interested in that aspect of Mexican cooking. No matter what main meal you pick, you’ll always end up making a full menu with two appetizers, one entree and a dessert.

Making the Mole

The first recipe we dove into was the mole. Beto started off by laying out the method and all the steps needed for its preparation on the blackboard behind us. I’m not going to share that with you here since it was his own adapted recipe and something he has perfected over the years. But if you yourself book a class with him he shares with the class all those recipes and more and you come away with almost a full recipe book of printed meals to make at home!

Mole is made with 28 different ingredients, although Beto kindly makes his with 26 since he removes the bread (gluten) and the peanuts, so this recipe can more easily accommodate a variety of allergies. Beto’s mole is adapted from a version of the recipe from Puebla, a region in the east which is known for its culinary history and traditions. Beto has been making this recipe for years with his family, so you really feel like you’re making something that was designed to be made with love.

Ingredients

Before we even arrived, all the ingredients were laid out for us. Beto’s handy assistant had torn through the market to buy all the supplies we needed while we were leisurely wandered through the market. This allowed us to learn from Beto about all the component which now sat on the table before us.

One of our favourite parts of the experience was just listening to Beto chat away about the history of some of these ingredients and recipes and how they came to be. He really was a wealth of information and entertainment all to himself.

Red and Green Salsa

Then it was time for the salsas. We made two salsas; fresh green salsa with a more spicy kick and a rich, smokey red salsa. The green salsa was my absolute favourite. I could have eaten it all day with anything! Despite only having five ingredients, the way it was prepared made it taste like the most complex and amazing thing you ever put in your mouth!

To make the red salsa, we used a molcajete, a stone tool like the American mortar and pestle. We learned all about how to care for a molcajete and saw three different ones that Beto owned; one was his own, one was his mother’s, and the last, his grandmother’s. Each one looked the same and yet different, the older they got, the smoother their surface. It was like working with a piece of his family’s history.

Tamales

Next up were the tamales! Every morning on the streets, you’ll see hundreds of men and women either on bikes or set up on street corners selling tamales. Tamales are super popular at breakfast time since they are hearty, cheap and SAFE to eat (since they are made by continually steaming the food, keeping it sanitary). The recipe for tamales is thought to date all the way back to Mesoamerica in around 5000 BC. A ‘tamal’ is made from corn masa, which is filled with either meat, cheese, or vegetables.

Corn Tortillas

Finally, it was time for us to learn how to make tortillas from scratch! Despite meeting our amazing tortilla maker, there is just nothing like fresh tortillas hot off the grill. We had such a good time learning when to flip the tortillas and how to make them puff up in the perfect way! It was a busy, laugh-inducing experience that had us all grinning ear to ear.

Cocktails

Now that all our recipes were finished, it was time for a drink! Beto made us all a Paloma, served with traditional Mexican tequila and finished with a slice of grapefruit and a pink peppercorn salted rim!

After all this busy cooking, it was nice to sit down and enjoy each other’s company. We had chatted a bit with our fellow cooks, but while we started to dig into the beef tacos, we finally had the chance to talk more in-depth and learn all about them. It was one of the guest’s birthdays the day we were there, and we had many “happy birthday” cheers and made the entire night a big celebration! It felt like having dinner with friends by the end of the night.

Rooftop Dinner

After we were finished cooking, we were escorted upstairs to the rooftop garden and dining table. The beautiful table was laid out under the jacaranda tree. Despite the tree not being in bloom when we visited, there were plenty of other plants and flowers on the rooftop to make us feel like we were dining in a tropical forest.

The meal was served with some incredible Mexican wine and fresh hibiscus juice, which paired perfectly with everything on the table! We dove right into the food, so quickly in fact that I completely forgot to take a picture of my beautiful plate. But here is a shot of our smiling faces which say it all.

The mole was served with shredded chicken. We eat it along with some incredible garlic rice we made earlier. Atop the mole you absolutely must dress it with a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds and thinly sliced onions. Both these two items seem to make such a massive difference in the flavour. I have had mole a few times and have to say it’s not always my favourite. Often it’s just too sweet. But this mole was perfect, not too sweet, not too bitter, and so flavourful!

Tequila & Mezcal

The end of the meal was finished off with a tequila and mezcal flight. We tried some truly unique varieties, some of which you couldn’t even find in stores! This is the perfect ‘sobremesa.’ A sobremesa is a Spanish tradition of relaxing at the table after a heavy meal. We sipped our liqueurs and asked everyone about their time in the city. We shared our favourite food spots and sights in the city, and I made more than a few notes of restaurants to try out next time we’re in town!

I hope this gives you some insight into what a day with Beto and the Casa Jacaranda is like. So if you’re like me and were on the fence about whether or not you should book this experience, it helps you make your decision. And honestly, DO NOT HESITATE to book it ASAP. This is more than a cooking class. It is a day out with friends. A historical lecture. A DELICIOUS home-cooked meal. An insightful study of Mexican food. And best of all, a learning experience you can bring home with you to share with your family and friends.

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I asked the locals, trying to get their honest opinion. I was surprised to hear how positively even the locals, not just the tourists, spoke about it! With so many resounding responses we decided to make our way down to Xochimilco. To see what all the fuss was about. And let me just say right off the bat, it was my favourite thing we did while in Mexico City! And I would implore everyone to go and see it for themselves.

Guide to Xochimilco

1. History
2. Access
   • Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas
   • Bus to Xochimilco
   • Group Tours
3. The Trajineras
4. How Much does a Trajinera Cost?
   • Groups and Collectivos
5. Food
6. La Isla de Las Muñecas
7. Entertainment along the Canal
8. Artisans & Merchant Boats
9. Bathrooms?
10. Other Sights along the way
    • Our Experience

History

Xochimilco is the Venice of Mexico. It’s an enormous network of canals which spread across this southern district of Mexico City. There are over 170 km of canals which spread out in all different directions. Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico City, the indigenous people of Mexico had created an incredible network of canals. They used these both as a means of transport and as a way to ensure there was a constant supply of water throughout the country.

Xochimilco means “Floating Gardens” as the Aztecs filled the land with thousands of flowers and vegetation. These fields were called chinampas and were artificial agricultural plots rich in minerals. After the Spanish invasion, they dried up many of the canals in the centre of Mexico City in order to make room for modern roads. But the canals in Xochimilco remained. Today, Xochimilco is UNESCO World Heritage Site as it preserves this Aztec technology.

Access

To access Xochimilco my recommendation would be to take an Uber or find a local guide. Local guides can be both your driver as well as a local ‘fixer’ along the way. If you simply want to get an Uber there are plenty of drivers always on the road to get you there and back. The trip takes about 45 minutes depending on where you’re staying in the city. But there can be heavy traffic at peak times of day which will increase the time and cost. A one-way ride with Uber costs around $10-$15 USD but if there is heavier traffic it could be as much as $25. That’s still very cheap for a 45-minute ride but just something to keep in mind.

Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas

Be sure to arrive at the ‘Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas‘. There are multiple embarcaderos, or ‘piers’, which service the canals. But the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas is the official pier to catch your boat and where you’ll find the most honest pricing. It’s also where you’ll find food, shopping and restrooms. If you’re taking an Uber to the pier you might find that along the way, people on bikes will stop your Uber along the way. They’ll tell you that the pier is closed and you need to access the canals through an alternative embarcadero. This is completely untrue and a scam to get you to access their alternative dock.

We asked a local if they’ve ever taken the route the bikers lead them on just to test out the scam. He said he had and was brought to a less than savoury-looking entrance. There he found only a few meagre boats which had clearly seen better days. He passed on their offer for a ride and then headed over to the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas. Which was, of course, not closed at all!

Bus to Xochimilco

If you want to save some money you can always take the bus. The metro is another option but the bus requires only one mode of transportation. Whereas the metro requires a few transfers. Take the bus number 47-A-XAlameda Oriente towards Xochimilco / Bosque de Nativitas. It takes about an hour depending on traffic and costs 30 pesos (about $2).

Group Tours

You can also access Xochilmilco with a group tour. These are often combined with trips to the Frida Khalo Museum or the Pyramids of Teotihuacan. If you really want a huge, group party type of atmosphere then this is the best way to get it. Personally, I find these tours a little pressed for time, often rushing you around from place and to place. I like to take things at my own pace so we chose to do this on our own. But if you’re short on time and want to see all these destinations this is a great option.

The Trajineras

‘Trajinera’ is the name for the iconic brightly coloured boats which float up and down the canals. They have flat bottoms and float throughout the canals, pushed along by a long wooden ore. The boat is controlled by your rower, just like a gondolier. In the center of the boat is a large table and about a dozen chairs on either side. So you can have an entire group ride on the same boat! The covered roof is perfect for keeping the sun off on hot days. But if you want to sit out in the sunlight the front of the boat has ample room.

The boats are vibrantly painted to resemble the flowers which used to grow on either sides of the canals hundreds of years ago. Each boat is given a different name. Half the fun is looking at all the different unique names. You can even call ahead (if you have a local to help) to get your name painted onto a boat. This is perfect for birthdays, bachelorette parties or quinceaneras.

How Much does a Trajinera Cost?

Getting a Trajinera inexpensively isn’t something you should expect when you come to Xochimilco. This isn’t one of those super budget-friendly excursions. The maximum rate set by the city is 500 pesos per hour, per boat (not per person as some tricky boatmen might quote you). You can try and haggle your way down but unless you have a good grasp on Spanish haggling, you’ll find it pretty difficult. I generally go with the set price as it’s a great deal and well worth the price you pay. Remember to tip your boatman at the end of the trip! Most of the money you pay at the start goes to his boss and the actual driver sees little of that. So a nice tip will go a long way for them.

Two-hours is the minimum time you can book as the boat drivers need to make it worth their while. I would go for two or three hours since it takes a while for them to get the boats out of the dock and away from the most crowded areas. When we first went we only booked two-hours and I honestly wish we’d gone out for longer!

Groups and Collectivos

If you meet fellow travellers along your travels it’s always worth asking them if they’re interested in a trip out to Xochimilco and that way you can save a bit of money going in as a group. Just be warned that you need to arrive as a group, not just glom onto other tourists who are asking about pricing who are already at the docks. There is also the ‘collectivo’ boat. This larger motorized boat runs every half an hour and only costs 30 pesos each way. It only runs back and forth from one station to another so its a much shorter, less leisurely ride, but if you’re looking for a budget option, this is it!

Once you have secured your boat, you set out from the dock into the canal. Most of the boats are located near the pier and blocked in by dozens of other boats. I didn’t even think it would be possible for us to get out but they did it! Make your way through the field of trajineras into the open water. This felt a little bit like a giant version of bumper cars and was so interesting to watch our driver make his way through the pile of rainbow-coloured boats.

Food

You are allowed to bring whatever food and drinks you want with you on the Trajineras. Just a few minutes away from the main pier is the Mercado Xochimilco, a great place to grab some fresh snacks and delicious treats. There are also various food stalls located along the pier when you arrive at the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas.

Depending on what day of the week you visit will change what’s open (the weekdays tend to have fewer stalls and sellers open than the weekends), but there’s always something to buy both on land and on the water. That’s right, there’s food available throughout the canals as you travel. Vendors with roasted corn, coconut water, tacos, cold beer and freshly made micheladas float up and down the canals. The prices are more than you’d pay in the market but you pay for the privilege of having them coming right to your boat!

La Isla de Las Muñecas

‘The Island of the Dolls‘ or ‘La Isla de Las Muñecas‘ is a famous attraction along these canals. You probably have seen it on Anthony Bourdain or Buzzfeed Unsolved. Many boatmen will say they’ll take you to the island in 2 hours but the truth is the real island is about 5 hours out from the main pier. There are various replicas of the island you’ll see along the main route but these are not the original. While I think a 5 hours journey might be a little much for most people, the farther out you go the more and more in touch you’ll get with the empty expanses of natural canals and yes, you’ll eventually come to the island of the dolls. Most people who really want to visit the island chose to hire a motorboat to bring them out to the island.

This place is infamous for being one of the most haunted places in Mexico City. Legend has it that the island’s caretaker daughter drowned in the canals after losing her favourite doll in the river. To honour the drowned girl’s spirit the father began collecting dolls and placing them all over the island. He began with a small altar surrounded with dolls and when he ran out of room began hanging the dolls all over the trees on the island. Being left out in the elements the dolls have begun to rot and take on a ghastly appearance. While the reproductions of the islands along the main canals aren’t the real thing, they are pretty interesting to see as you float along.

Entertainment along the Canal

As soon as we set off into the canals, the sound of musicians playing across the waters can immediately be heard. Mariachi bands floating on their own individual boats float down the river. As they pass you by they’ll offer to board your boat and play a song or two or really as many as you want! Songs cost about 150 pesos per number but are cheaper the more songs you want. We floated by and listened to various other boats with their mariachi bands and it sounded like so much fun that when one approached us we couldn’t refuse the offer.

We hired them for simply one song and asked our guide to choose his favourite tune to get played. It felt so special to have a group of almost 10 musicians board our boat and play just for us. In addition to the mariachi bands, you’ll also see various smaller boats with only 2 to 3 people playing the xylophones as they float down the canal. So much music fills these canals, then entire place feels like a giant party even in the middle of the week when we were told it would be a fairly calm day. One can only imagine has loud and exciting it would be on the weekend when this place is filled to the brim with people!

Artisans & Merchant Boats

As you float down the river people also come up to you on their boats selling various souvenirs and craft goods. You’ll see some selling embroidered blankets, others selling flower crowns inspired by the ancient flower fields. You’ll see wooden toys, traditional Mexican dolls and mini replicas of the Trajineras. While this might not be the cheapest place to buy souvenirs the experience of purchasing them on the water is pretty unique and makes for a great story.

Bathrooms?

We happily drank and ate as we floated down the river and the farther and farther out we got the more and more peaceful and quiet the canals became. When we were about an hour out from the docks, almost no boats remained with us. The canal was almost empty except for our boat and the occasional corn or drink seller. The lush trees contrasted perfectly against the bright blue sky. With all that eating and drinking you might be wondering, “how do you go to the bathroom?” Sounds like an odd question but it’s a very important one. Well, fear not! Many of the homes on the edges of the canal have installed their own public washrooms at the end of their lot.

The boats simply pull up and dock near the edge of the canal and you hop out. Most of these cost about 20 pesos but trust me when you need to go you’ll be more than happy to pay the money. They’re relatively clean but I would always recommend using hand sanitizer after using them since the water isn’t potable.

Other Sights along the way

Other things you’ll see along the canals are everything from florists to independent zoos where you can see some the amazing wildlife that lives in these rivers. A lot of these are a little bit of a tourist trap and while we didn’t see the need to go and visit them it was neat to pass them by.

Our Experience

Since we visited on Wednesday, the river was relatively calm and I could only imagine how busy it would’ve been in the weekend when hundreds and hundreds of people come here to celebrate and also just relax with their friends. Almost like an open-air park. We saw there were signs on the outside of houses along the canals selling everything from hot chocolates to coffee to fresh tacos and while most of these were closed, only open on weekends, it was still interesting to see how all the neighbours which face onto the canal have made a life serving the people of their community.

As we floated down the river we saw four boats all tied together having an enormous party. The music could be heard from miles as well as their laughter and jaunty singing. It looked like so much fun and we waved ‘hola’ to them as we passed by. They all waved back to us with huge smiles on their faces. Everyone in the canal in some way felt like family, and I loved that feeling of being surrounded by loving, happy people.

The Titanic

The name of our boat was ‘Titanic’ and our guide told us that this name had been requested by a Mexican comedy show which visited the canals a few months previously. They thought the name would be a funny one for the little skit they were filming there. It was indeed very funny and every other boat we passed would get a good chuckle as we floated past them.

I loved this trip so much and absolutely didn’t wanted to end! As the day has wore on, more and more people began to float the river and on our way back to the dock we past dozens of happening parties on their way out. We finished our day in Xochimilco with a meal by the river, so we could still enjoy watching the boats and people pass by. We ate at one of the small restaurants near the Embarcadero where they even moved a table to their outside patio just for us, it felt like a private room just for us!

All my hesitations and worries about visiting here couldn’t have been further from the truth of this magical place! While you might think it would be touristy, we saw very little tourists when visiting. It was mainly locals we saw enjoying themselves and spending time with family and friends. If you have any doubts about visiting I would push those aside and do everything you can to make it out here. It truly is something so unique to Mexico City and an adventure you won’t soon forget.

The post Ultimate Guide to the Fantastical Floating Gardens of Xochimilco, Mexico City [UPDATE 2022] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Location

The skating rink is located just off Michigan Avenue inside Millennium Park. Millennium Park is a beautiful area to visit while you’re in the city. It’s only a few blocks from the Chicago River and faces the city’s most awe-inspiring architectural masterpieces. The rink is sandwiched between Michigan Avenue’s architectural skyline and the infamous Chicago Cloud Gate or “The Bean.”

History

Millennium Park was built to celebrate the millennium (hence the name), but the construction didn’t finish until 2004. Nonetheless, despite its late bloom, the park’s beauty and almost perfect urban landscaping won over everyone.

Price

As it was New Year’s Eve, the lineup for Skate Rentals was a bit long, but we were lucky enough to get there right before the rush. Admission to the rink is free, and you can rent skates for $13–$20. You can also grab a locker to skate about on the rink without carrying all your travel gear.

The rink was amazing. The Zamboni was there just before we arrived, so the ice was nice and smooth. Although many people were there, they did a good job of staggering admission inside. So, the rink never feels too crowded. For the most part, it was an incredibly relaxing, romantic and all-around beautiful experience. Getting to hold the hand of someone you love while whizzing around on the ice is almost like flying. There’s nothing like it, especially when you take in all those gorgeous Chicago sites!

Cloud Gate

As you skate about the rink, you can gaze at you at the Cloud Gate. Take a snap to capture yourself skating around below. It’s quite a magical thing. Cloud Gate is a three-storey tall sculpture by artist Anish Kapoor. The steel shell is made out of more than 160 steel plates. Each plate is welded together and polished to give it a seamless appearance. It’s so shiny that it reflects the city around it like a mirror. And all those who step up to see it.

Streetwall

On the opposite side ofof the Bean, you can gaze at the “Streetwall” along Michigan Avenue. The streetwall comprises some of Chicago’s most interesting and historical architectural buildings. When I’m in Chicago, I am always taken aback by the Gothic, Baroque and Romanesque styles of architecture throughout the city. You can see a bit of each style along the ‘Streetwall.’

After skating up a storm, take a break and enjoy delicious dining at the Park and Grill Cafe. It is one of the greatest people-watching spots in the city, and it is perfect for relaxing while watching the skaters fly by.

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