I spent the summer in Barcelona, and I was lucky enough to be able to spend my weekend making these little day trips and narrowed this list down to my absolute favourites. Each one lends itself to a different kind of traveller or experience. So choose the one that best suits your intentions!

Day Trip from Barcelona

1. Montserrat: Where Nature Meets Spirituality
   • How to Get to Montserrat?
   • What to do in Montserrat
2. Figueres: Surreal Art at the Salvador Dalí Museum
   • How to Get to Figueres?
   • What to do in Figueres
3. Girona: The Medieval Marvel
   • How to Get to Girona?
   • What to do in Girona
4. Tossa de Mar: The Rugged Coastline
   • How to Get to Tossa de Mar?
   • What to do in Tossa de Mar
5. Sitges: A Coastal Haven
   • How to Get to Sitges
   • What to do in Sitges
6. Tarragona: Roman History Unveiled
   • What to do in Tarragona

Montserrat: Where Nature Meets Spirituality

Located just an hour’s train from Barcelona, Montserrat is a breathtaking mountain range renowned for its unique rock formations and dramatic peaks. At the top of the mountains, nestled within its rugged landscape, lies the spiritual centre of Montserrat, the 11th-century Monastery.

How to Get to Montserrat?

From Barcelona, the Montserrat train station is only an hour-long journey. You have several options from the station to get to the top of the mountain. The most impressive is the cable car, which launches you into the air for an aerial view of Montserrat. This provides a different perspective of the mountain’s geological formations and is a thrilling experience. You can also choose to take a funicular railway ride or hop on the rack railway. I found the cable car to be the most direct way up and was also one of the faster ways to make the journey.

What to do in Montserrat

There are so many different things to do here; you’ll want to ensure you arrive as early as possible to fit in all the summit’s different activities.

Hiking

Upon arriving at the summit of the mountain, there are many different activities. Montserrat is a hiker’s paradise with numerous well-marked trails catering to all levels of hikers. Even if you just want to go for a 20-minute hike, there are options there for you that allow you to explore even a hint of the rugged terrain and winding pathways that open up to breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside and iconic rock formations. One of the shorter hikes takes you to see the Cross of Sant Miquel, which offers stunning panoramic views of the monastery below and the surrounding landscape. It’s a peaceful spot for reflection and taking in the natural beauty.

Montserrat Monastery

The Montserrat Monastery, also known as the Santa Maria de Montserrat Abbey, is a religious and cultural landmark. Walking into the courtyard before the monastery, you can marvel at the combination of architectural styles spanning several centuries. While its origins date back to the Romanesque period, it has undergone various renovations and additions, incorporating Gothic and Renaissance elements. The buildings are made of stone and blend harmoniously with the surrounding landscape.

Basilica of Montserrat

The Basilica of Montserrat is filled with incredible stained glass windows, ornate altars, and religious artwork. The most important thing to see inside is the famous Black Madonna statue, also known as “La Moreneta,” which is a revered icon in Catalonia and a major pilgrimage site. It is believed to have been carved in the late 12th century, though the exact date and artist are unknown. 

La Moreneta

The statue is called “La Moreneta” because of the dark colour of the Virgin Mary’s skin and the infant Jesus, giving them their distinctive appearance. According to legend, in the year 880, the statue was discovered by shepherds in a cave on the Montserrat mountain. The shepherds saw a bright light and heard angelic music from the cave. When they investigated, they found the Virgin Mary and the Child statue. Despite their attempts to move it, the statue remained in the cave, leading them to believe it was divinely placed there. The statue’s discovery led to the Montserrat Monastery’s founding in 1025. The statue became a focal point of worship and pilgrimage at the newly established abbey. The statue has been associated with numerous miracles and acts of divine intervention throughout the centuries, further strengthening its significance.

Escolania de Montserrat

When you arrive, check at the information desk what time the Escolania de Montserrat will be performing. The Escolania de Montserrat, or young boys choir, has a long and prestigious history dating back to the 13th century, making it one of the oldest choirs in Europe. The choir school’s mission was to provide a musical education to young boys while also serving the liturgical needs of the monastery. These young choristers, known as “Escolans,” receive a comprehensive musical education at the monastery. They often come from various parts of Catalonia and beyond. The Escolania de Montserrat performs daily, offering their angelic voices during the midday liturgical services, which is a highlight for visitors to the monastery.

*Note: the boy’s choir is off on vacation during August.

Museum of Montserrat

I was surprised to find the Museum of Montserrat at the top of the mountain. Despite its smaller size, it is a powerhouse of renowned artists like El Greco, Picasso, and Dalí. In addition, you’ll find a collection of religious art consisting of paintings, sculptures, and jewel-encrusted liturgical objects. Many of these pieces are of exceptional quality and historical significance.

Marketplace

Every day, farmers from the local area drive up to the summit of the mountain to sell traditional Catalan delicacies. You can find delicious local cheeses and honey sold by some of the most passionate growers.

Figueres: Surreal Art at the Salvador Dalí Museum

Figueres is a charming town located in the northeastern region of Catalonia. While Figueres has a well-preserved historic town center with charming narrow streets, historic buildings, and picturesque squares, most visitors mainly come here to have their minds blown inside the Salvador Dalí Museum. 

How to Get to Figueres?

Figueres is located 140 km northeast of Barcelona, but from Barcelona-Sants train station, you can hop on one of the highspeed Renfe trains, which takes you to Figueres-Vilafant station in just under an hour. From the train station, it is a leisurely 20-minute walk into the city centre.

What to do in Figueres

Salvador Dalí Museum

Famous surrealist artist Salvador Dalí was born in Figueres on May 11, 1904. Before his death, Dalí wanted to give something back to his hometown and took it upon himself to create the Dalí Theatre Museum. Dali chose the old bombed-out Municipal Theatre of Figueres to build his new museum. The building had a lot of meaning to the painter. He had been baptized just next door, had his very first art exhibition in the theatre, and was such a theatrical painter that building his museum on those grounds seemed most fitting. 

The museum opened in 1974 and showcases the artist’s whimsical and imaginative works, including paintings, sculptures, and installations that challenge our reality. The museum includes a series of rooms that showcase Dalí’s surreal imagination. Visitors can explore labyrinthine corridors, cryptic symbols, and optical illusions that transport them into the artist’s eccentric world.

Dalí’s Crypt

A glass geodesic dome cupola is above the old stage inside the former theatre. The dome lets light pour into the room, creating the most ethereal effect. The light is centred around a rectangular panel on the floor, which is nameless but is actually Dalí’s final resting place, as his grave can be found in a crypt beneath the stage floor.

The Mae West Room

One of the museum’s highlights is the Mae West Room, where visitors can view a living room set designed to look like the face of the famous actress Mae West. By viewing the room from a specific point, the furniture forms the facial features of Mae West.

Paintings and Murals

Throughout the museum, you’ll find many iconic paintings by Dali, but my favourite is Galatea of the Spheres. This painting is a loving portrait of Dali’s wife, Gala, but only comprises these fragmented spheres. Today, the picture sits on an easel that once belonged to French Classicist painter Meissonier.

Another iconic part of the museum is the murals that Dali painted. These images are distorted visions of the world, in forced perspectives, many of which tell allegorical stories from the life of Dali himself. This is just one example of the profoundly personal nature of this museum.

Figueres Historical Walking Tour

After exploring the museum, take a self-guided stroll through the charming streets of Figueres, where you’ll find quaint cafes and shops. It’s an opportunity to immerse yourself in the essence of Dalí’s birthplace and gain insight into the life of this renowned surrealist artist. 

Girona: The Medieval Marvel

Girona is a picturesque medieval town in the Catalonia region of northeastern Spain. It is renowned for its well-preserved historic center, characterized by winding cobblestone streets, ancient stone buildings, and a rich cultural heritage. Girona gained international recognition when it was featured as a filming location for the popular TV series “Game of Thrones,” where it stood in for the fictional city of Braavos. The stairs outside the cathedral were also used in exterior shots for scenes inside King’s Landing.

How to Get to Girona?

From Barcelona, you can hop on a 40-minute train ride that will transport you to the medieval wonderland of Girona! The train ride is a beautiful journey through the Catalonian countryside.

What to do in Girona

Old Town

Girona boasts a history that dates back to Roman times, and its medieval roots are still very much evident in its architecture and layout. The town has been influenced by various civilizations, including the Romans, Moors, and Franks, each leaving their mark on the town’s culture and architecture. The Old Town (Barri Vell) is the heart of Girona, enclosed within ancient city walls. The old town is a labyrinth of narrow streets, plazas, and historic buildings. Visitors can explore the Jewish Quarter and the Museum of Jewish History, one of the best-preserved in Europe.

Gothic Cathedral of Girona (Catedral de Santa Maria)

The cathedral is an iconic symbol of Girona and a stunning example of Gothic architecture. It features a grand staircase, a remarkable nave, and the widest Gothic nave in the world.

Visitors can climb the cathedral’s bell tower, known as the “Girona Cathedral Tower,” which offers panoramic views of the town and surrounding countryside.

Tossa de Mar: The Rugged Coastline

For those craving dramatic coastal scenery, Costa Brava is a day-trip paradise. This region is famous for its rugged cliffs, hidden coves, and crystal-clear waters. One of the best towns to visit in the Costa Brava from Barcelona is Tossa de Mar. This picturesque coastal town is renowned for its stunning Mediterranean beauty, historical charm, and vibrant cultural scene. 

How to Get to Tossa de Mar?

The fastest and easiest way to get to Tossa de Mar is to hop on the #2 bus from Barcelona’s Estacio del Nord. The bus takes just over an hour to arrive outside the Tourism office.

What to do in Tossa de Mar

Medieval Old Town

Tossa de Mar is often called the “Pearl of the Costa Brava” due to its exceptionally well-preserved medieval old town. The historic center is surrounded by ancient walls and towers, and it’s a maze of narrow cobblestone streets, charming squares, and centuries-old buildings. The most famous feature of the old town is the Vila Vella, a fortified area with watchtowers and battlements dating back to the 12th century.

Hiking

Surrounding Tossa de Mar are scenic hiking trails that lead you through pine forests along cliffs, and offer breathtaking views of the Mediterranean. The Camí de Ronda coastal path is a popular choice for hikers.

Beaches

The main thing that brings most people to Tossa de Mar is the beautiful beaches, each with its unique character. The main beach, Platja Gran, is a wide crescent of golden sand with crystal-clear waters, ideal for sunbathing and swimming. Nearby, you’ll find Platja d’es Codolar, a smaller, more secluded cove.

You can stroll along the Passeig de Mar, a beautiful seaside promenade lined with palm trees, restaurants, and cafes. It’s a great place for a leisurely walk, enjoying the sea breeze and savouring local cuisine.

Grab something to Eat

One of the best things to enjoy while visiting a seaside town is their dining options! Seafood restaurants serve fresh catches of the day combined with traditional Catalan flavours. Don’t miss the opportunity to try regional dishes like paella, seafood stews, and the local specialty, “romesco” sauce.

Sitges: A Coastal Haven

Sitges, often called the “St. Tropez of Spain,” is a coastal gem known for its beautiful beaches, charming streets, and vibrant nightlife. Spend your day lounging on the sandy shores, exploring the historic old town, or savouring delicious seafood at local restaurants.

How to Get to Sitges

From Barcelona-Sants train station, you can hop on an R2 train that arrives in Sitges in under an hour.

What to do in Sitges

Beaches

Sitges is famous for its sandy beaches. Some of the most popular ones include Playa de la Fragata, Playa de la Ribera, and Playa de San Sebastián. You can relax on the golden sands and swim in the Mediterranean Sea. But for me, my favourite part of a visit to Sitges is a leisurely stroll along the Passeig Maritim, a scenic promenade that runs along the coast. It’s perfect for enjoying sea views, people-watching, and stopping at beachfront cafes.

Explore the Old Town

Many people don’t spend enough time exploring the town’s historic and architectural heritage. Don’t miss the Church of Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla, an iconic landmark with its distinctive bell tower. The Maricel Palace and Cau Ferrat Museum are also worth a visit to appreciate art and history.

Tarragona: Roman History Unveiled

For history buffs, Tarragona is a must-visit destination. This ancient Roman city boasts a wealth of archaeological treasures, stunning Mediterranean beaches, and a blend of modern and ancient charm. The city’s seaside location adds an extra layer of charm to your day trip.

How to Get to Tarragona

Head over to the Barcelona-Sants train station, where you can get on a regional train, arriving in Tarragona in just over an hour.

What to do in Tarragona

Roman Ruins

Tarragona was once an important Roman settlement, and its historical legacy is evident in the well-preserved Roman ruins throughout the town. The most iconic site is the Tarraco Archaeological Site, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which includes the Roman walls, a circus, and various archaeological remains that offer a glimpse into the town’s ancient past.

The most impressive of all the Roman sites in Tarragona is the Roman Amphitheatre. This amphitheatre was used for gladiator contests and other public spectacles. Visitors can explore the well-preserved structure, which offers panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea.

Old Town & New Town

Tarragona’s historic center is a charming labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets, medieval squares, and centuries-old buildings. The Cathedral of Tarragona, a beautiful Gothic-Romanesque structure, highlights the old town.

Be sure to head to the Rambla Nova, where you’ll find a bustling tree-lined promenade. This popular spot is great for shopping, dining, and people-watching.

Mediterranean Beaches

Tarragona boasts several picturesque beaches, including Playa del Milagro and Playa de la Arrabassada. These sandy shores are ideal for sunbathing, swimming, and water sports, offering stunning views of the sea.

Hopefully, this post has inspired you to plan your next Catalonian day-trip destination! From the enchanting medieval streets of Girona to the artistic wonders of Figueres and the tranquil beaches of Sitges, these picture-perfect getaways reveal a unique facet of Catalonia’s rich cultural tapestry.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Best Day Trips from Barcelona, Picture-Perfect Getaways first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Kamakura was once the capital of Japan from 1185 to 1333. Its early importance in the history of Japan ensured its legacy forever. Kamakura’s laid-back atmosphere and proximity to both the water and mountains make it the perfect place to come and explore. Kamakura has it all packed into one lovely spot. Stroll through ancient temples, hike through the countryside, spend a day at the beach and taste your way through the bustling city center. And best of all, you can easily see it all in one day!

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Map
3. How to Get to Kamakura
4. How Much Does a Day in Kamakura Cost?
5. When to Leave & How much time to Spend in Kamakura
6. Shrine Etiquette
7. Praying and Offerings
8. Start your Tour at Kita-Kamakura Station
9. Engaku-ji Temple
10. Tokei-ji
11. Meigetsuin Street
12. Ishikawa Coffee
13. Enoden Line
14. Hasedera Temple
15. Great Daibutsu at Kotoku-in
16. Yuigahama Beach
17. Komachi-dori
18. Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū

History

In 1185 Shōgun Minamoto no Yoritomo became the first Kamakura Shogunate. The Kamakura Shogunate was the feudal military government leader of Japan. One of the first things Minamoto did as Shogun was to move the seat of power in Japan to Kamakura. This period was called the ‘Kamakura Era. In the later years of its rule, Kamakura became one of the most populous settlements in Japan.

The name ‘Kamakura‘ comes from the words “kama” and “kura”. Kama means “oven” and kura means “saddle “. In ancient Japan, an oven or hearth was closed on three sides and open on one side. Kamakura itself is closed-off on all side by mountains but open on one side out to the ocean. In addition, when you look at the landscape of Kamakura from the ocean the hillside creates a saddle-like shape.

Map

To follow along with this guided tour, you can download the step-by-step map or add it to your googlemaps.

How to Get to Kamakura

Kamakura is a comfortable hour-long train ride from Tokyo, making it one of the easiest day-trip. If you leave from the central hub of Tokyo Station you can get directly on the Yokosuka Line. This line arrives directly at our first stop, Kita-Kamakura Station. No need to change any lines. From anywhere else in Tokyo you can still arrive quickly in Kamakura with generally just one change of trains.

How Much Does a Day in Kamakura Cost?

No matter where you are in the city, a ticket to Kamakura will run you about 900 – 1,100 yen. So around $20 USD for a return ticket. While you are in Kamakura your main expenses will be admission into the shrines, a few train tickets and some street food. So much of this tour is on foot and only the large distances are covered on the train. A day out in Kamakura is easily done for under $60. I’ve done my best to list the costs throughout the post so you can plan accordingly.

When to Leave & How much time to Spend in Kamakura

I ALWAYS advise leaving Tokyo as early as you can, around 7:30 am if possible. This means you can nap a bit on the hour-long journey but miss the rush hour traffic. Leaving at 7:30 am means you’ll arrive in Kamakura around 8:30 – 9:00 am. This leaves you LOTS of time to leisurely explore the city. If you want to eliminate a few shrines from this guide, you can also plan this as a half-day trip along with a visit to Enoshima. But this guide is prepared for a full day, so plan your time accordingly.

Shrine Etiquette

Much of this tour involves going into various temples and shrines. There are specific rules to keep in mind if you wish to be respectful when visiting.

Wash Your Hands

At the entrance to the shrine, you’ll find a large area of running water with a basin and ladle. This is meant for you to wash your hands and clean yourself before entering the sacred space. Take the ladle from the basin and hold it in your right hand. Take a scoop of water and pour it over your left hand. Then reverse hands and repeat. Before putting the ladle back, dip it back in the water and tilt it upwards to send a stream of water down the handle. Cleansing it one last time.

Keep Quiet

Ensure that when you enter a temple, you keep as silent as possible. Most interiors do not allow photography of any kind, so be sure to respect this rule if enforced. Your phone on silent to be sure you do no interrupt someone’s prayer.

Praying and Offerings

When leaving an offering, gently drop a coin into the “saisen-bako” or offertory box. This is a large wooden trough with vertical slats to drop your coin into located in from of the Shinto shrine. Five-yen coins are considered good luck while a ten-yen coin is thought to be unlucky.

If there is a bell in front of the shrine and you have left your offering you can take the rope and ring the bell. This is thought to alert the kami (or spirits) of your presence. After you ring the bell you bow twice, clap your hands twice and then bow once more. This is the way to greet the kami after ringing the bell.

If you wish to pray in front of any of the Buddist statues we will see on the tour, simply hold your hands together in silent prayer.

Start your Tour at Kita-Kamakura Station

Your arrival in Kamakura will begin at Kita-Kamakura station. “Kita” in Japanese means “north” as this station is slightly north of the city center and main train station. What I love about coming right into a smaller countryside station is you immediately feel the difference from the big city. The station has just two platforms and a tiny entrance gate.

Engaku-ji Temple

Just on the other side of the train tracks is the entrance to Engaku-ji Temple. This temple complex is one of the most important Zen Buddhist temples in all of Japan. A tall staircase is nestled in the heart of this incredible cedar forest, leading you into the temple. The first building built here was made in 1282. It was made in honour of the fallen soldiers of the second invasion of the Mongols. Despite the original date of its construction, since the buildings were all made of wood, multiple fires have damaged and destroyed them throughout the ages. Therefore many of the current incarnations are reconstructions of the original designs.

Admission 300 yen for adults and 100 yen for children

The complex opens at 8 am, just as the morning sun begins to rise. I can still smell the morning dew on the cedar needles as I walked up the staircase.

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Sanmon

When you walk up the temple path, you begin by walking up a set of low stairs leading you up to this grand wooden gate. This is the Sanmon gate, a two-storey work of art that was rebuilt in 1785. Look close at the upper levles to find an intricate series of carvings.

The most crucial carving is that of the Bodhisattva statues, people on the path to enlightenment. There are also sixteen carvings of the arhats (those who have achieved nirvana) and the twelve yakshas (heavenly generals who protect the temple).

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Butsudan

A series of smaller structures seem to guide you towards the Butsudan or main hall. Large juniper trees lean in towards the entrance, keeping it safe from the elements around it. This is where the holy wooden statue of the Shaka Buddha is housed. This Buddha was made in the Kamakura period, around the 13th century. The Shaka Buddha is different from other Buddha images as this one is crowned with a golden headband. There are also two other statues of the Bonten and Taishakuten in the hall, dating back to 1692. 

Look up at the ceiling inside and soak in the splendour of the beautiful dragon painting on the roof. This was painted under the supervision of one of Japan’s greatest contemporary painters; Season Maeda, around 1945. Seison Maeda moved to Kamakura after his home in the city was destroyed during a bombing raid. He lived just on the other side of the Kita-Kamakura Station, where he could see the temple complex from his window. He lived there until his death at the age of 92 and is buried at a nearby temple.

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One of my favourite parts Engaku-ji is the pathway leading towards the back of the complex. There, you’ll find a perched series of buildings set over top of a small pond. Above them, the swell of the forest crashes over the rooftops. It is such a sight to see!

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Sharidan

Towards the back of the complex, you’ll find a small, single-storied building with a steep pent roof covered in ancient cypress park shingles. This catches your eye right away as its design is so unique. The Sharidan, while small in size, houses the most precious items from the temple’s collection: a tooth from the Buddha themself. This is considered a National Treasure and the building which houses it, a reliquary.

White Deer Cave

Opposite the Sharidan, follow the path, to find a smaller marker indicating the White Deer Cave. On the opening day of the temple complex, when the preacher came out to give her sermon, it was said that a white deer emerged from this cave to listen to him. This was seen as a much auspicious event, and to this day, the cave is protected to ensure the mystical white deer is not disturbed.

Bentendo

Head back towards where you entered, but instead of going back down the stairs, head towards the complex’s south-east end. There you will find a stone torii gate leading to another set of stairs. This takes you through the forest once more into the Bentendo.

The stairs seem to go up and up, further into the woods. When you reach the top, your walk will be rewarded with an incredible lookout over the hills and mountains of Kamakura. The temple up here is dedicated to Benten or Benzaiten, goddess of wealth, happiness, wisdom and music.

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There is also a tea house here with a simple series of benches to sit and enjoy your macha. I would highly recommend taking a break for tea here as the views are stunning. Just outside the Bentendo is a small structure containing the Great Bell. This large copper bell is 2.6 meters tall and one of the largest in Kamakura. It was made in the 12th century and is a real piece of history.

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Tokei-ji

Head back down to Kita-Kamakura Station and walk two minutes down the road towards Tokei-ji. Tokei-ji is a Buddist temple and formal nunnery. Nunneries are a real rarity to find in Japan and only five nunneries actually still survive.

Admission: 200 yen for adults and 100 yen for children.

In Japan, nunneries were a sanctuary for women who had been abused by their husbands and needed to escape. In the 13th century, divorce was not an option for these women. Running to a nunnery was their only way to get out of the bad situation they were in. For this reason, the temple also goes by the nickname “Divorce Temple“. Over 200 years, over 2,000 women came here to seek refuge. In the late 19th century, once women were able to initiate divorce themselves, the temple was converted into a monastery.

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Flowers Garden

Other than the temple’s rich history, people often come here to see the beautiful flower garden. Throughout the year the garden blooms all around the temple complex. The cherry blossom trees are magnificent to see in the Springtime. It seems fitting that a temple dedicated to protecting women would be surrounded by such stunning of natural beauty.

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Amidst the gardens, you’ll find the beautiful statue of the Buddha. Peacefully sitting among the pine and cedar trees, he looks our serenely at you as you approach. As if granting you a moment of gentle acknowledgment. The buddha is in abhaya mudra position. The gesture of blessing represents protection, peace, benevolence and the dispelling of fear. No doubt it brought lots of comfort to the women who came here to escape their cruel husbands.

Cemetery

One of the most serene parts of the temple complex is towards the back, deep in the forest. Here you will find a small graveyard where many different Japanese celebrities have been buried. In Japan, it is important to leave items atop the graves of your family members. These items represent things they once loved in life and how the living continue to pay respect to the dead.

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Meigetsuin Street

Exit the temple and walk back to the road. Follow the road south towards the river crossing. Walk beside the river’s edge, along Meigetsuin Street. This street will begin to go uphill quickly as you moved into the thick of Kamakura’s hillside. The road is narrow, but the street is popular with the visitor as well. You’ll often find street vendors on either side of the road selling souvenirs and street food. The houses along the route are beautiful examples of historic countryside houses.

Ishikawa Coffee

The further you walk along the street, the fewer tourist you’ll find will be walking with you. It begins to feel like you are entering an area that is just residential. But continue onwards and soak in the beauty which is this quiet area. After around 10 minutes, you should reach your destination, which is Ishikawa Coffee. The coffee shop feels like a secret hideaway in the mountains, and maybe that’s why the coffee tastes so good. There are lots of delicious baked goods here to recharge your system for the rest of the day. While the 10-minute hike up to the coffee shop might seem like a long side-quest just for coffee but it gives you a reason to see the lovely rural houses of the people who live in Kamakura. Plus you get a little reward at the end.

Enoden Line

Jump back on the metro at Kita-Kamakura Station and head one-stop to Kamakura station. At Kamakura station, you can change lines onto the historic Enoden Line. The Enoden line only covers 10 kilometres of track across this area of Japan but it is a truly scenic 10 kilometres. It was established in 1902 to connected Kamakura to various famous spots like Enoshima Shrine, Iwaya Caves, the beach and more.

One of the things that make this train line so popular is the rail cars’ iconic design. These look like they are straight from anime cartoons with their retro, brightly coloured exteriors. The trains are so iconic they even have little gatchapon toys you can buy outside the stations. For 300 yen it’s a great little souvenir of your time on the Enoden.

Train to Hase Station: 340 yen

Hasedera Temple

Ride the Enoken to Hase Station. Five minutes from the station, you walk over to Hasedera Temple, for which the train station is named. When you arrive at Hasedera Temple, the first thing you will notice is the iconic pine tree that leans towards the entrance to the temple. As if protecting it from the elements. The Hasedera temple is a Buddhist temple built into the mountain “Kannon-zan.” It is most famous for the massive wooden statue of Kannon that is housed in the temple on top of the mountain.

Admission: 400 yen for adults and 200 yen for children under 12

Gardens

When you enter through the ticket booth, you step right into the beautiful gardens—these welcome visitors with a spread of blooms throughout the year. In the winter, you can find ume blossoms and narcissus sprouting up..

In the spring, the sakura petals fall on the green grass, and 150 varieties of bright white, red and pink peonies cover the bushes. Summertime brings lotus blossoms and hydrangeas that pop open all over the hillside. In the fall, the red spider lilies bloom along with floral Hibiscus’.

Benten-kutsu Cave

To the right of the entrance, be sure to visit the mysterious Benten-kutsu Cave. The Benten or Benzaiten cave was a sacred place where the Buddist saint, Kobo Dashi, practiced in the seclusion. Inside the candle-lit cave is a large statue of the Benzaiten as well as 16 of her followers.

The Benzaiten is one of the female goddesses of Buddism, who represents feminine beauty and wealth. Inside the cave you’ll find thousands of tiny wooden carvings of the Benzaiten, playing her biwa. The Biwa is an ancient Japanese instrument, essentially a long neck lute. It was traditionally used in narrative storytelling. You can buy a minature of her for 300 yen and leave it here in your honour. Or just keep it as a souvenir, either way, the money goes towards the temple.

Jizo Bodhisattva

As you climb the hill to the upper temple, you will notice the hundreds of statues that line the staircases and hillside. These are statues of the Jizo Bodhisattva, the guardian deity of children who help guide their souls to paradise. When the temple was first built, parents would come here and dedicate a statue to their children to protect the Kannon. Over the years, the symbolism of Jizo statues has changed. Today, they are markers of the souls of children who were lost to miscarriage or stillborn children. Some of the statues are tied with bibs or hand-knit clothing. Never forgotten by their would-be mothers.

While knowing this makes the rows and rows of tiny statues a seemingly sad image, their smiling faces tell another story. That their souls are at rest, and they are happy wherever they are. Each year old statues are burned or buried to make room for more, but they bring a smile to many faces they greet while they remain.

Inari Shrine

Another stop to make along the stairs towards the top is at the Inari Shrine. Inari shrines are a type of Japanese shrine used to worship a particular deity. These shrines aren’t inside the typical building but instead marked by a series of vermillion torii gates. Along the edges of the shrine, there are walls with wooden plaques called the ema. These plaques are left with messages from people who come to pray at the shrine. Typically the ema are in the form of the deity of the inari shrine. In the case of this shrine, we find one of the most peculiar deities, the oyster!

The oysters or kakigara were thought to protect the Kannon Goddess statue while she was at sea. The oysters clung to the wooden figure to protect her from damage or any other predators. The walls here are covered in shells representing the precious kakigara.

Shoro Belfry

When you finally reach the top, the first thing you will see is the Shoro Belfy. This great bell was initially made in 1264 and is the oldest bell in Kamakura. It is rung every morning at 8 am when the gates to the temple open.

Amida Hall

The grand temple at the top is actually made up of three different buildings. The first of which is the Amida Hall. The Amida is the “Buddha of Immeasurable Light and Life.” Inside the building, you will find a golden statue of the great Amida. This Buddha is thought to promise rebirth to all those who chant his name.

Hondo, Main Hall

Inside the Hondo, or Main Hall, is where you’ll find the great statue of the Kannon Goddess. The Kannon Goddess is one of the most precious relics of Japan. It is the tallest wooden statue, standing at 30 feet tall! Legend has it that two figures were carved out of a giant sacred tree. One was sent to the temple in Nara, and the other was thrown into the water.

It was said that wherever the statue reappeared would be a new sacred place. After 15 long years, the statue turned up on the shores near Kamakura, and the temple was built in its honour in 726 AD. The Kannon Goddess is the Goddess of Mercy. She is an 11-headed spirit, each head representing a different phase in the search for enlightenment.

Restaurant and Cafe

Atop the hill, there is a panoramic view of Yuigahama Beach. You can enjoy the view while sitting outside the cafeteria on the long communal tables.

Get something to drink or have a cold ice cream cone to enjoy in the summertime. Either way, this is the best place to see over all of Kamakura.

Prospect Path

To head down from the top, take a walk along the Prospect’s path that winds down the mountain’s western side. This pathway is famous in the summer when it is littered with multi-coloured blooming hydrangeas.

Kyōzō

Before you get to the exit at the bottom of the path, you come across the beautiful secret bamboo forest. In the center of the forest is the Kyōzō. A Kyōzō is a repository for Buddhist scriptures or sūtras. Each one of these was handwritten in beautiful Japanese calligraphy then rolled into a cylinder. Each of the rolled scrolls is placed inside a central pillar, which revolves. This is called the rinzō or wheel repository.

Pay special attention to the large wood cylinders along the wall. These are called “mani” or prayer wheels, used in Tibetan Buddhism. It is believed that when you turned this mani, you will receive the same virtues when the correct prayers are recited. This is perhaps one of the most overlooked parts of the temple complex, and yet, as a bibliophile, I found it to be one of the best interests of the tour.

Great Daibutsu at Kotoku-in

A short 7-minute walk from Hasedera temple brings you to the gates of Kōtoku-in. Kōtoku-in is home to perhaps the most impressive monument of Kamakura, the Great Daibutsu. ‘Daibutsu‘ is the Japanese word for “giant Buddha.”

Admission: 200 yen for adults and 150 yen for children.

Walking in the front gates, you can immediately see the Buddha rising in front of the mountains in the background. As you enter, there is a plaque that reads: “Stranger, whosoever thou art and whatsoever be thy creed, when thou enterest this sanctuary remember thou treadest upon ground hallowed by the worship of ages. This is the Temple of Buddha and the gate of the eternal, and should therefore be entered with reverence.” 

History of the Great Daibutsu

The 43 ft tall bronze statue has been sitting in the same spot since 1252. The first incarnation of the statue was made in wood in 1243. The wooden statue took many years to be completed. But after all that work, the wooden sculpture was destroyed by a great storm in 1248. As a result, a new version was commissioned, and this one was to be made in bronze. The new bronze statue was finally completed in 1252, and it hasn’t moved since. I mean, it weighs 93 tonnes; I don’t think it’s going anywhere.

Originally the Buddha was housed inside a great hall. But year after year, the hall was destroyed by Kamakura’s rough seaside weather. After the most violent storm in 1369, the rebuilding of the hall was abandoned. Since then the statue has remained in the open air. And I think I far prefer it this way. The gorgeous contrast of the bronze buddha against the bright blue sky is one of the most stunning images.

Details of the Buddha

At one point, the great Buddha was covered in gold gilding. Only a few gold pieces remain around the ears and cheeks, the rest lost to the ages. On either side of the Buddha are two incredible carvings of climbing lotus blossoms. Originally there were 10 of these surrounding the Buddha. But the rest were either stolen or lost over time.

The design of the Buddha was made in the “song style.” This was the prevalent method of sculpture art in the Kamakura period. This style is represented by the bowl-shaped hair strands, a flat, square face, stooped posture and oversized head. The clothes which the Buddha wears over their shoulders are a simple, single piece of fabric. This remains slightly open around the chest as if to express a sliver of mortality. Unlike some Buddha statues, which have a raised hand, this statue sits with its hands on its knees. This is the position of contemplation and grounding. Because the figure is hollow, you can even stick your head inside and get a look at the interior. There is a winding staircase inside the Buddha which was used when creating it and is also used for repairs.

Yuigahama Beach

Before heading back to the train station, walk down from the temple directly to Yuigahama Beach! It would be such a shame to come all this way without enjoying some time on the sand. There is a 7-Eleven and a Family Mart on the way back to the beach, which you can stop off at to get yourself everything you need for a lovely beach picnic.

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Yuigahama Beach offers views of Enoshima Island. The beach itself is filled with rich iron sands and you can find lots of pretty little shells along the shore. The coast is very popular with the locals during the summer months. There are even places that rent chairs and umbrellas to sit out under on the sand. In the summer, there are also street vendors selling the popular Japanese shaved ice dessert; kakigori!

Komachi-dori

Once you are finished at the beach, jump back on the Enoden train and head back over to Kamakura station. From the station, head outside and over to Komachi Street. You’ll be able to spot the street from the station by the large red torii gate, which marks the entrance.

Train from Hase to Kamakura: 200 yen

Komachi Street or Komachi-dori is one of the six historic main roads that formed the initial layout of the city of Kamakura. Today, the street is the most popular shopping area for residents and tourists alike. You can find everything from souvenirs to local treats and lovely restaurants. While the street is pretty busy, don’t let that put you off, as everyone is here to enjoy all the amazing things to eat and drink in Kamakura! Because the road is so popular, it is designated as a pedestrian-only zone. Komachi Street is a great place to wander along and try out different local street foods. While there are many traditional Japanese classics, you need to try a few unique ones local to Kamakura!

Komachi Chaya

Hydrangeas are Kamakura’s iconic flower. They can be found in gardens and flower beds everywhere you look in the Spring. They are a local obsession. Just as Sakura’s seem to be a Japanese obsession, Kamakura residents love their hydrangeas. At Komachi Chaya, you can get not only a hydrangea black tea but also a beautiful kakigori inspired by the colours of the hydrangea. Traditionally a kakigori is either plain or covered in toppings. But this one is served with a tray of various fruit compotes on the side to pour on top to your personal preference! Such a unique way to serve kakigori, so the fruit doesn’t immediately melt the ice.

Kakigori 1,420 yen | Tea Set 680 yen

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KYO Kamakura

Daifuku is one of Japan’s most popular desserts, made from mochi with a sweet red bean filling. Here in Kamakura, they have a very unique take on the sweet; the Zunda Daifuku. Zunda is soybeans, also known as edamame. These savoury beans are ground up into a paste and placed inside the mochi. This gives it a much less sweet flavour than the traditional red bean variety. No for everyone, but worth giving a try! You can find the Zunda Daifuku at KYO Kamakura.

Zunda Daifuku 160 yen

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Hannari Inari

One of Kamakura’s most famous local delicacies is Shirasu, or whitebait. These tiny fish are like minature sardines and are usually served raw, in a large amount as they are so small. Because eating them just on their own can be a little intimidating if you’re not used to eating a pile of tiny fish with faces, Hannari Inari has an excellent option for you. They have recently come up with the ‘Shirasuka.’ The Shirasuka is a Japanese omelette filled with Shirasu. These are served on a stick to be easily eaten on the go. The fish adds an umami flavour to the egg and balances out its sweetness.

Shirasu & Tamago: 270 yen

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Kamakurayama Rusk

A “rusk” was something I had never heard of before coming to Kamakura. A Rusk or “rasuku” is a slice of bread that has been covered in butter and sugar and then toasted until it is crisp like a crouton. The sugar caramelizes while cooking adding to the rich flavour. Kamakurayama Rusk has taken the treats to another level. Their rusks come in these vortex designs with swirling colours that are mesmerizing. They even come in different shapes as well. But what really makes them unique are the flavours. You can find macha, burdock, fruit sala, berry shortcake, earl grey, caramel, and more!

Five Star Rusks: 480 yen

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Kamakura Ichibanya

Kamakura Ichibanya is a shop that makes fresh senbei right there on the street. The smell wafts down the road, guiding you over like in a trance. Senbei are Japanese rice crackera. The ones sold here come in many different flavours, including the most popular; nori wrapped topped in a sweet soy sauce.

Fresh Seibei: 50 yen a piece

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Sakura no Yumemiya

My favourite stop on the food tour is Sakura no Yumemiya. This shop sells a variety of fantastic dango. Dango are Japanese dumplings made from rice flour. They are very similar to mochi, but the balls of rice flour are smaller, the size of a marble, and steamed to make them super bouncy instead of chewy. While dango usually comes in just one of two flavours, this shop has dozens and dozens of toppings that jazz it up.

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You can get Sakura, chestnut, roasted soybean, taro, honey lemon, strawberry, edamame, and even nori wrapped! You can also even get one stick of dango covered in a mixture of different toppings! The best way to try all their other flavours without getting too full!

Each one costs between 170 and 240 yen

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Kamakura Mameya

Kamakura Mameya is best known for the candy-coloured dried nuts and legumes. This place is so popular among the locals so prepare to wait. Inside you’ll find peanuts, Komachi beans, soybeans, Koiso pea, broad beans, as well as dried seasonal produce like grapes, tangerines and Sakura. Each one of these treats is covered in brightly coloured toppings making everything look like a piece of candy even when it is actually pretty healthy!

The bags vary in price depending on the item you pick but each one is around 200-500 yen

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Momiji Chaya

The lines can be pretty long at this shop, but it’s well worth it! Momiji Chaya are famous for their matcha tiramisu! The entire dessert is served within the most aesthetic bamboo box and perfectly levelled out to make it look like it is merely a dessert cube. The whole thing is covered in a dusting of fresh macha to add a bit of bitterness to balance the tiramisu’s sweetness.

Tiramisu: 600 yen or 900 yen for the drink set

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Kamakura Karari

If you enjoyed the Shirasu omelette earlier, I would implore you to try out a Shirasu-don. This is a whitebait rice bowl. The Shirasu served like this really brings out the fish’s flavour more and is one of the most traditional ways to enjoy the local catch of the day. While other shops usually serve the Shirasu raw, Kamakura Karari also offers it broiled or cooked in a tempura fritter! I opted for the fritter, and it was amazing!

Shirasu-don Rice Bowl: 1,580 yen

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Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū

To finish the day off, let’s spend the last few hours of sunlight at the most important shrine in Kamakura; Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū. Despite the fact it is one of the most important, it is also one of the newest shrines. That being said, it is still almost 1000 years old!

Admission: The Shrine is free to explore but the museum costs 200 yen to enter

Minamoto no Yoritomo

Shogunate Minamoto no Yoritomo was the founder of the Kamakura. When he became Shogunate, his first task was to move the captial of Japan from Kyoto to his home in Kamakura. Kamakura was previously a simple fishing village. When it became the capital they essentially had a fresh space to create a capital city. The second task Minamoto did was to move the Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū shrine to Kamakura from its previous location in Zaimokuza.

Hachiman

The Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū shrine is dedicated to the god Hachiman. Hachiman is the divine protector of Japan. He is known as the “god of martial arts” as he was the great patron deity of the samurai. Moving the temple of Hachiman also meant moving the nation’s best warriors to reside in the new location in order to protect this new government.

The name “Hachiman” means “eight banners.” Emperor Ōjin is the divine spirit of the deity Hachiman, and it is the legend that when he was born, eight heavenly banners flew through the sky, carried by doves, to signal his birth. You will find images of doves used as talismans in reference to Emperor Ōjin.

Genpei Ponds

Walking up to the shrine, the first thing which greets you is a large red torii gate. Opposite the red torii gate is a low-lying stone bridge that crosses two ponds on either side. The two Genpei ponds represent the Minamoto clan on the left and the Taira clan on the right. The Taira clan was the bitter rival of Shogun Minamoto. On the left side which is in honour of the Minamoto clan, the pond has three little islands. The number three in Japan symbolizes birth. The pond on the right, on the other hand, has four islands. The number four represents death, corresponding with the pond associated with the rival clan. Perhaps used as an omen and warning to those who come to the shrine with cruel intentions.

Living inside the pond are many different coloured koi fish and cute softshell turtles. There are lots of waterfowl too, creating a constant flurry of activity in the trees and water. In the summertime, the entirety of the water’s surface is blooming with lotus flowers and is such a sight to see!

Feng Shui Layout

Because the new Shogun had complete control of his new captial city’s design, he wanted to ensure that it was built with Feng Shui in mind.
Feng Shui is a Chinese principle that focuses on the natural forces on earth. The idea is that these forces can be harmonized and controlled to create power and good fortune. One way this is done is by the orientation of building around these invisible forces. Many principles of Feng Shui were kept in mind when designing the layout of the shrine. They had consulted the royal diviner who chose this place as it had a mountain to the north, a river to the east, a great road to the west and an opening to the south.

Taiko Bridge

Walking up towards the first bridge might find that both sides of the larger stone bridge are closed off by a red gate. This is because this bridge was reserved for the Shogunate only. The common folk needed to use a flatter bridge on either side to access the shrine. Despite the fact that the shogun of Kamakura is long dead the tradition remains as a memory to him. To the left of the shogun bridge, stands an ancient plum pine tree.

Hataage Benzaiten Shrine

After crossing the bridge, walk out onto the pond towards the Hataage Benzaiten Shrine. This can be found to the right of the entrance. A series of white flags mark this shrine. Each of these flags is a prayer left by visitors. If you wish to purchase your own flag to leave on the island you can purchase one near the shrine. If you have google translate downloaded on your phone you can use this to help translate some of the prayers left behind. Like a wave of wishes blowing in the wind.

Archery Track

As you continue down the complex, you’ll see a large crossing on either side of you. This is the ancient archery track. This was where the traditional Yabusame Shinto ritual would take place. This Shinto ritual would occur once a year. All the best samurai would come here to compete against each other for the glory of the shogun. They would mount their hoses and attempt to shoot three targets while riding at full speed down the track.

The event was started when the new Shogun realized that his archers lacked skills with their bow. He thought this would give them a good incentive to practice. Even today, a festival is held yearly in the fall where people dress in costume and perform the ritual just the great samurai would have years ago.

Maiden

The building at the base of the stairs is called the Maiden or Shimoden. The most famous woman in Japanese history and literature was a Shizuka Gozen or Lady Shizuka. She was a court dancer and mistress of Minamoto no Yoshitsune. Shizuka Gozen devoted herself to Minamoto and would dance for him with a passion that would entrance all those who watched. Famously, she would come here to perform some of her most memorable productions. Today, the Maiden is still a popular spot for dances and musical performances. As well as weddings and festivals which are held here throughout the year.

Every morning at the Maiden, people gather to offer rice, sake, vegetables, fruits, and other offerings to Hachiman. Locals come to pray for the prosperity of the Imperial Family and the nation. This ritual is called onikkusai.

In addition to paying your respects to Hachiman okami, you can also come to pray for the safety of your family and the health of your body.

Sake Rice Baskets

Off to the left of the Maiden, you’ll see a large structure filled with giant sake barrels. Different sake producers will donate large sums of money to the shrines in order to ensure good fortune for their companies. These barrels are only ceremonial and do not contain any real sake but they are still such a beautiful thing to look at.

Shirahata Shrine

On the eastern side of the lower level, you will find the Shirahata Shrine, also called the Junior Shrine. This is where the spirit of Minamoto Yoritomo and Minamoto Sanetomo are enshrined. The dark wood of the shrine is painted black and embellished with gold trim. Many people come to this shrine to pray for victory in honour of the great shogun.

Masako stone

Right beside the shrine, you’ll find the Masako stones. When you pour water on the rocks, an image of a turtle or a crane will appear. Both the crane and the turtle represent longevity as it is fabled that cranes and turtles have life spans of thousands of years. Pour some water on the rocks to pray for some life longevity for yourself!

Soreisha

On the western side of the complex, you’ll find this old, seemingly forgotten building. This is the Soreisha, the shrine dedicated to the ancestor spirits. Many people seem to miss this building and it is one of the most peaceful areas of the place. It is a newer shrine, erected in 1949. The spirits which are said to reside here are thought to protect the land and people come here to pray for their own protection.

Ginko Tree

The staircase leading to the main shrine is flanked on either side by two trees. But you might notice that the one on the left is significantly smaller. This was once where a great ginkgo tree once stood for over 1000 years. It was a precious treasure of the nation and a holy place for pilgrims.

In March 2010, a huge storm came through and uprooted the tree. Although great efforts were made to replant it, the tree could not be saved in its entirety. Because the tree was so important, the trunk was replanted in the hopes it would reproduce leaves (which it since has). Other cuttings were also replanted, and they have even begun to multiply and regrown.

The tree was said to have played a large part in the assassination of shōgun Minamoto no Sanetomo in 1219. The assassin, his nephew, hid in the tree as his uncle was leaving the shrine. When he walked down the stairs, his nephew jumped from the tree and attacked. He thought this act would enable him to become the next Shogun, but the public didn’t support his succession, and instead, he was beheaded the same day for his actions.

Stairway

The large stairway leading up to the main shrine contains 61 steps. 61 in an interesting number as it is thought to be unlucky. Perhaps the uprooting of the tree and the assassination were both brought about by the unlucky omens of the stairs.

Main Shrine Jugo

As you climb the stairs, you pass through the Sakura Gate to enter the main shrine, the Jogu. This building was recently renovated in the 21st century when the previously plain wood was repainted in this bright vermillion. The main shrine enshrines Emperor Ojin, Himegami and Empress Jingu.

On the front of the shrine is a black sign with gold lettering. The Japanese character at the top represents a dove which is the messenger used by the deity Hachiman.

Gingko Emas

At most shrines you can buy an ema, a wood plaque, to leave your prayers on. The emas at this shrine are printed with the image of the great ginkgo tree.

You can also get yourself a souvenir omikuji or random paper fortune outside the shrine. You can get on here for 200 yen that comes with your fateful prediction as well as a dove charm in honour of the deity Hachiman. When you open the fortune, should it be unlucky, fold the paper in a thin strip and place it inside the nearby “bad luck box.” Place your hand around the arrow above the box as this is said to help remove the bad luck.

Treasure Hall

The main shrine is separated into three areas, the main sanctuary, the treasure hall and the worship hall, each connected through long hallways. The Treasure Hall is located on the west side of the main sancutary and contains sacred items from the history of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. This is the only part of the temple complex which requires admission (200 yen).

Inside, you can find such things as samurai swords from the 18th century, black lacquer arrows, 19th-century bows and quivers, and a series of ceremonial kimonos.

Maruyama Inari Shrine

On the western side of the Jogu, you will find the Senior Shrine, the Maruyama Inari Shrine. This is the oldest remaining shrine on the grounds. Standing guard outside this part of the shrine we find the Inari who are kami foxes. Kami are Japanese spirits. The fox spirits are thought to bring fertility to the land and are often seen as the spirits of agriculture.

To the right of the shrine, you’ll find a series of torii gates. Walking down the hillside through the torii gates will lead you back down to the lower level. The flags which appear in front of the torii gates have been purchased by those who pray for prosperity in their businesses. These are often the most costly prayers and only large companies are featured here.

Before leaving, take a seat in the rest area just opposite the large pond. During certain times of the year, purple wisteria grows all over the canopy. This beautiful scene is the perfect place to end your time at the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine.

Dankazura

As you start to head back to the train station, we walk down the pedestrian walkway or dankazura. The Dankazura is a stunning alley flanked on either side by beautiful sakura trees and brightly coloured flower gardens.

Ni no Torii

At the end of the alley, you come to the Ni no Torii, the final torii gate. On either side of this torii gate are two large guardian lion-dogs. The one on the left has its mouth open forming the Sanskrit letter “A”. On the other hand, the one right has its mouth closed forming the sound of the Sanskrit letter “MA”. Together the lions are attempting to sound out “Aum” which is a sacred sound and mantra practiced in Buddhism.

This brings us to the end of the tour. If you’re still hungry and didn’t eat all you could along Komachi Street, you can head over there before your train back to Tokyo leaves from Kamakura station. I hope you enjoyed this day-trip from the big city and felt like the sun, shrines, and seaside rejuvenated your body and spirit.

Let me know in the comment what your favourite part of Kamakura was or what you are most looking forward to seeing!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Kamakura Day Trip Itinerary; Shrines, Sea and Shirasu! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Guide to Murano

1. History of Glass in Murano
2. Practical Information
3. Map of Murano
4. Panficio Marcato
5. Murano Glass Museum
6. Basilica of Saint Mary and Saint Donatus
7. Fratelli Tosi Showroom
8. Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli
9. Palazzo da Mula
10. Church of Saint Peter Martyr
11. Campo Santo Stefano
12. Barovier & Toso
13. Guarnieri Glass Factory
14. Former Church Santa Chiara Murano
15. Gino Mazzuccato
16. Murano Lighthouse

History of Glass in Murano

When Venice was first built, the city had a great need for glass mosaics. Inspired by Byzantine art and architecture mosaics, the grand Basilica of San Marco wanted its own mosaic cathedral of glass. A church covered floor to ceiling in glasswork to dazzle anyone who entered. This enormous endeavour required millions and millions of pieces of glass to complete. Glass blowing was a dangerous business, especially inside a cramped island-like town like Venice. The furnaces could get up to 15,000 degrees Celcius. With houses being so close, a fire that got out of control could spell disaster for the city. Not only that, the dozens of burning furnaces meant the temperature in the city would rise greatly when they were in production.

So, in the 12th century, they moved the glassworkers over to the islands of Murano. There, they were able to build larger studios with huge furnaces that multiple companies could share. But there was another reason for the move. This was to ensure the secrets of the great Murano glass didn’t get out! Glass artists were practically locked away on the island. The Serenissima (Venetian Republic) needed to ensure no one else could just easily visit without being noticed. Spies were prevalent, and glasswork was a lucrative business. By keeping everyone together, the government felt they could better control their movements and who they spoke to about what! Who knew pretty things could be such a sinister business?

Glass Guilds

On the islands, glassworkers were organized into different guilds. Each guild had a kind of union that oversaw their living conditions and day-to-day work. Businesses to support the workers began to grow around the area. These artisans needed to be fed and entertained. Keeping them happy was of the utmost importance to ensure they didn’t run off to another country. Many original families who started their businesses in Murano are still there. While some new modern techniques have been employed today, many of the original ways of doing things remain unchanged. Stepping onto the island truly is like stepping back in time.

Practical Information

How to get there

From the north edge of the main island of Venice, a Vaporetto only takes 23 minutes to reach Murano Island. Take lines 4.1 and 4.2 from the Fondamente Nove dock. If you want to get to Murano from the Santa Lucia Railroad Station, take Line 3 directly to Murano. This trip takes just short of half an hour. Wherever you come into the city, get off at the Murano Museo Vaporetto stop. This dock is located right near our first stop on tour.

Cost of Transport

If you already have a multi-day travel card for the public transport system in Venice, you can simply scan your card and jump on the boat. If you haven’t purchased a travel card, you can buy a one-way ticket for €7,50. But I HIGHLY recommend the travel card if you’re planning on doing any kind of sightseeing.

When to Visit

Murano is a beautiful place to visit almost the entire year. But in August, many factories closed for the summer holidays. If you can avoid travelling during this time, you should, as many spots, even in Venice, will be closed for the August holidays. If August is your only option for travel, be sure to call or check the websites to double-check if they have any special summer hours or opening times. Or make alternative plans so you aren’t caught off guard when you arrive to find a “closed” sign on the door.

“Free” Factory Tours

Don’t take a “free boat and factory tour” from the mainland or your hotel. Often these tours will tote “free” transport to and from Murano. And they all offer another “free” factory tour. But often these tours aren’t free at all. Once you arrive at the shop, the salesmen put immense pressure on you to buy something. Many guilt you into buying by referencing how they gave you a free trip to Murano, and you basically “owed” them.

Usually, the company mentions these are “special discount prices.” Still, repeatedly, they are anything but and are huge rip-offs. After buying the pieces, they’ll quickly whisk you off back to the island, so you don’t have time to shop around and compare their inflated prices. I truly hate these scams since the price of the boat to Murano is so cheap, and it’s incredibly easy to do it on your own.

Shopping for Murano Glass

Murano glass isn’t cheap, and that’s because of the quality. This glass isn’t mass-produced in China. It comes from artisans who have a long history of using these same hand-blown techniques as the previous generations. So you’re paying not only for the craftsmanship but also for the history. If you’ve had your heart set on picking up a piece for your home, there are some things to keep in mind.

Don’ts

Don’t feel pressured into buying anything. The larger workshops will have so many people moving inside the shop after the demonstration that if you leave without buying anything, you won’t be noticed. While the smaller artisan shops give more personalized tours, these are often not free. Therefore you’ve already paid for their time, so you don’t need to feel like you have to buy something. Not everyone who comes to the island has the same budget. Don’t feel you have to miss out on exploring Murano if you don’t plan to buy anything.

Don’t listen to hawkers! These salesmen lure you into their shops with gimmicks and alluring “discount prices.” Most of the time, these guys try to upsell you a cheap glass from Chine sold at high prices. I always avoid anyone screaming at me as a general rule.

Dos

Always look for the sticker “Vetro Murano Artistico “! If you buy something, always be sure it has this sticker on the window or on the glasswork itself. This trademark decal is given to sellers authorized as authentic Murano glass makers.

Tips When Buying Murano Glass

• Small, less notable shops will be much cheaper than the brand-name ones. Just like Gucci will cost more for a simple shirt than picking it up at Walmart or Tesco.
• The number of colours used in the piece will also change the cost. Threading more coloured bands into the glass will be a much more intensive and timely process. The fewer colours, the cheaper the piece. Some pieces also contain bands of gold leaf that will create a stunning effect but obviously increase the cost. Transparent glass is always cheaper than more opaque glass. Opaque glass requires more manual manipulation so if you’re looking for a cheaper piece, look for something clearer.
• Size is pretty obvious; the larger the piece, the most expensive it will be. I found a few pairs of earrings that were perfect for me to buy. They were the perfect thing to commemorate the experience and didn’t cost me an arm and a leg.

Map of Murano

Panficio Marcato

Upon deboarding the boat, head to the west along the canal for a few minutes. Head into Panficio Marcato to grab a coffee and pastry. No perfect day in Italy can start without breakfast and a cup of delicious espresso. A cute little mom-and-pop pastry shop is in this old, red building with adorable green awnings. Take the espresso and pastry, or sit by the water and enjoy watching morning commuters go about their day.

Murano Glass Museum

After being properly caffeinated, head back east towards the Murano Glass Museum. Visiting the museum first is a good idea to help get away from the crowds and gives you a primer on how these amazing works of art are created. It also provides a look into the history behind glasswork in Venice. The museum gave me a deeper level of appreciation which I could employ when I went into the glass showrooms. I understood better the magnitude of the task needed to create these pieces and, therefore, better understood the price.

The building which now houses the museum is a Gothic-style palace from 1659. It once belonged to the bishops of Torcello. Eventually, the palace passed hands several times when the diocese was abolished. Ultimately, it was passed down to the municipality and became the town hall in 1840. The town hall began to amass an archive of glasswork from Murano. They kept it in a few small rooms but over the years, as it continued to expand, they realized they needed to turn the entire space into a museum.

Layout of the Museum

The museum layout follows the history of glasswork chronologically as you move throughout. On the first floor, you find archeological discoveries from the Roman era. According to an ancient legend, Phoenician merchants on the sandy banks of a river in Syria would start campfires using saltpetre blocks. When these would melt and mix with the sand, the advent of glass was created!

Glass production centers have been found worldwide in Mesopotamia, Egypt and Syria. The first evidence of glass blowing can be found in Palestine in the first century BC. They discovered evidence of moulds that molten glass would be poured inside. The glass could be shaped later by blowing into it to create colourless glass. In Eygpt, glass urns were blown and placed on tombs as offerings. On the first floor, you’ll find the oldest examples of glass made in Murano from the 10th and 11th centuries. These were discovered in the foundations of the nearby San Donato Basilica.

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Murano in the 14th Century

Venice’s close relationship with the Middle East allowed its glass industry to thrive. They imported materials from these Islamic nations and copied their styles. The most popular style was the Finistere, a long-necked bottle with onion-shaped bodies. Until the 14th century, the middle east was the primary powerhouse for the best in glass production. But in the latter part of the 14th century, Murano glassblower Angelo Barovier invented clear glass, and this technique would change the history of glass production forever. Suddenly everyone wanted clear glass from Murano, and the workshops were in full gear to keep up with demand. Murano became the epicentre of glassworks almost overnight.

In the 16th century, Murano glassmakers perfected the art of freehand glass blowing. This employed a technique called “flying hand” that allowed the craftsman to manipulate the glass by hand without a mould. This resulted in much more free-form creations that looked almost ethereal, unlike anything anyone else was creating. Another popular technique on the island was diamond point engraving, which turned the glass into something more like lace. Almost impossibly so.

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Evolution of Murano Glass

Murano glassmakers were constantly trying to evolve their form and did so in sometimes strange and creative away. They experimented with bizarre forms, vases in the shape of animals or chandeliers with flowers blowing from the candleholder. Bands of glass were woven into these new creations creating a filigree technique that is still popular today.

Porcelain became more and more popular in Europe in the 18th century. Glassmakers had to keep up with this trend. They, therefore, invented more opaque glass, which could then be decorated with gold and hand-painted with scenes of mythological subjects or rococo motifs. These were also seen in porcelain, so it was clear the game was on to see which artisans could do it better!

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20th Century Glass Art

The art deco and art nouveau periods brought new life to the glassworkers as new styles and trends from these periods could easily be incorporated into glasswork. Unlike some businesses, Murano glass workers loved to evolve their craft while employing ancient techniques. In the 60s and 70s, alternative and sometimes downright strange designs and shapes begin to pop up on Murano island. Their works began to once more be seen and sought after all over the world. Especially in America, ensuring Murano’s legacy for glasswork for years to come.

Murano Glass Museum Hours & Admission

No visit to Murano is complete without coming here to learn more about the craft that founded the island. The Glass Museum is open from 11 am to 5 pm Saturday and Sunday (the short opening days are due to COVID re-openings so check back as restrictions lift!)

Admission to the museum is 10€ and 4€ more if you want the self-guided headset.

Basilica of Saint Mary and Saint Donatus

From the museum, walk north along the canals. You’ll soon reach a large brick bridge which stretches over the canal. On its lefthand side, you’ll find the great Basilica of Saint Mary and Saint Donatus. The reason for the two names is the church changed its dedication throughout the years. Originally it was built for the Virgin Mary. Emperor Otto I was caught in a storm one day and pleaded with the Virgin to save him. He told her that he would build a church in her honour if she saved his ship. When the storm passed, Otto saw the mirage of Murano in the distance and took this as an instruction from Mary. After he returned home safe, he immediately set off to build her a church.

History of the Church

The church was built in 957, but the current incarnation is from 1140. Let’s face it is still pretty old! The secondary name being added to the church is that the relics of Saint Donato were moved to the church. After the Doge’s conquest of the Kefalonia, they raided the church there, where they discovered the body and relics of Saint Donato. It was very popular in the early medieval times to raid relics from other churches and take them back with you after wars and crusades. These were not only mementos of your conquests but relics that brought in much more modern business and tourism. Pilgrims from all over would come to worship these relics’ tombs. When visiting, they would, therefore, patronize local rooming houses and food halls. Tourism was a big business even as far back as the 12th century.

Saint Donato

Along with the bones of Saint Donato are the enormous bones of the dragon he is said to have slain. The slaying of this dragon is one of the most prevalent miracles the saint is said to have done. He was said to have been a priest who was sent to kill a venomous dragon who had been terrorizing a small island. Donato defeated the dragon and kept the bones with him even into death. Further investigation of the bones has since proven that they are most likely not that of a dragon. Despite this, they have still been re-hung above his sarcophagus inside the basilica.

Touring the Church

The best approach to the church is from the east. This side of the church’s facade is decorated with an impressive collonade inspired by the famous Ravenna cathedral. The deep red and brown bricks are offset with the bright white Grecian-inspired columns. Dividing the upper and lower floors is a set of triangle pieces of stone in a rainbow of colours, giving the cathedral a unique appearance. 

Byzantine Mosaics

Entering the cathedral, you’ll first notice the amazing Byzantine-style 12th-century mosaic floor. This is truly the most spectacular part of the entire church. The floor designs are incredibly detailed and seem to weave around your feet like a vine. Images depicted in the tiles represent griffins, eagles, serpents and peacocks, all made of precious stones.

Above your feet, the great gold mosaic dome stands at the end of the cathedral. Inlaid into the dome is the image of the Madonna in prayer. Her hands gently reach out towards you, and even the small blacks of her eyes seem to pierce your soul.

Take some time to wander around the lovely courtyard at the back of the church. This area is often one of the most peaceful places in Murano. Even out here, it’s nice to escape the tourist.

Fratelli Tosi Showroom

Head to the street behind the church and walk along until you come to the  Fratelli Tosi showroom. The Fratello Tosi family has been crafting Venetian mirrors since the 15th century. Their mastery of glass and mirrors has been passed down from generation to generation, resulting in some of the best pieces of interior art worldwide. Venetia mirrors have a very distinctive appearance. They were first produced here on the island in the 15th century, and their iconic style has been replicated. Even today, their stylish appearance makes them some of the most sought-after pieces for any grand home.

Lattimo Processs

The exact process for making these mirrors is a family secret, kept on the island for years. But we know that gold leaf is woven into the mirror glass before it is fired. By integrating the gold into the glass, you preserve the bright and shiny nature of the gold forever! Another amazing process that creates these unique mirrors is called Lattimore. The Lattimore process is what creates the translucent milky white of glass. This technique also forms artful borders covered in flowers and ribbons. These designs are a staple of Venetian mirrors. Even if you can’t afford to buy one of these masterpieces for yourself, coming into the shops is like visiting a gallery filled with some true works of art!

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Exploring the Houses of Murano

Continue walking along this island towards the western end, where you’ll find the tourist crowds really disappear. There aren’t as many name-brand shops on this end of the island. This district is where you’ll find many more traditional Murano houses. While not as colourful as Burano’s houses, these houses are still painted in charming and cheery colours.

Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli

At the end of the island, you’ll find the Church of Santa Maria Degli Angeli. This church’s history dates back to 1188, but the current incarnation is from 1529. The land upon which the church was built was given to the church by a noble family. The daughter of this family had been forced into becoming a nun. Despite being forced into this life, she loved the convent and dedicated a large expanse of land near the water to the church. Here they could build an even greater church and monastery. For years, this was where the noblest Venetian families would send their girls to become nuns. The convent’s coffers continued to increase with so many more rich and famous families added to their order. Contrastingly, in the 19th century, the church was used as a hospital that cared for the poorest families in Murano.

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Nicolò Rondinelli Paintings

The church’s interior has a fantastical ceiling and altarpiece, which are worth looking at if you have the time. The ceiling is covered in 40 portraits by Nicolò Rondinelli, depicting the Apostles, Prophets and Evangelists. At the end of the nave is the grand altar. The altar contains a large baroque sculptural carving made in Carrara marble. The grouping depicts the three theological virtues Faith, Hope, and Charity. They surround a richly painted image of Annunciation.

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Fondamenta Venier

Take a walk along the water and make your way to the Ponte Longo. I love this stone walkway along the water. Hundreds of moored boats bob up and down near the Fondamenta Venier’s wooden docks, which jut out from the stone path. While some of the docks seem more modern in appearance, there are definitely some that appear to have been here since the dawn of Murano.

Palazzo da Mula

Just north of the bridge, you’ll find the Palazzo da Mula. This palace is one of the finest examples of Venetian Gothic palaces of the 12th and 13th centuries. Many rich Venetians would escape to the island of Murano in the summer with fewer people. Here they could escape the hustle and bustle of the “big” city. Although the Napoleonic invasions destroyed many of these noble homes, the Palazzo da Mula was spared.

Byzantine Architecture

You can study the Byzantine decorations on the facade. Most notably are the circular ornaments called patera, which remain embedded into the brick facade. The large square carvings on either side of four windows on the second-floor show off the coat of arms of the Mula family. Atop the capitals of the columns are carvings of shields with crests and lambrellini (part of a soldier’s armour). Another popular feature of these old palaces is the archway which would have originally led straight from the waters right into the house. Today there is a new dock which extends outward, but originally boats would have been able to pull right up into the house.

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Mazzega Glass

Mazzega Glass Factory showroom, just down from the grand palace, is packed with amazingly colourful and fun pieces of glass! When the company was established, its main goal was to use inspiration from European art of the twentieth century to inform their glasswork. Artists such as Marc Chagall, Pablo Picasso, and Georges Braque were only some of the artists who influenced their works. On the lower level is where you’ll find their tourist shop. This area sells mostly items that are more affordable and easy to pack away for visiting tourists. Upstairs is their true art gallery. Aweinspiring glass chandeliers bloom with lush flowers, large curving vases, and even extraordinary “solid glass” sculptures show off their artist’s incredible skills.

Church of Saint Peter Martyr

The impressively tall Chiesa di San Pietro Martire is along the edge of the Murano Grand Canal. Also known as the Church of Saint Peter the Martyr. The church was built in the 15th century but experienced a devastating fire. It wasn’t until 1511 that the new church was built. In 1806, the militia invaded the city of Murano and stole amazing works of art. Today many of these great works are on display in Accademia. The church was dissolved, and the area inside was used for art classes.

In the 19th century, the church was established as a parish. They were unable to reclaim their stolen works but to restore their church, they were able to use parts of crumbling churches set for demolition throughout the island. Today, it feels like a cobbled-together building that managed to keep the histories of many other lost churches within its walls.

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Ponte San Pietro Martire

The Ponte San Pietro Martire reaches across the San Matteo Canal, near the church with the same name. While this bridge isn’t extremely old or particularly artsy, I love the view you get from both the top of the bridge across the canal! It’s a great way to see Murano from a slightly higher perspective.

Campo Santo Stefano

The Campo Santo Stefano is on the other side of the canal, just across the Ponte San Pietro Martire. This adorable little square is home to one of Murano’s most eye-catching sights, the 19th-century clock tower. The Torre dell Orologio can be seen almost everywhere on the islands. The clock tower was built atop the foundations of an old bell tower from a 12th-century parish. This square has been a place of gathering for hundreds of years.

Comet Glass Star

In the centre of the square is a phenomenal blue sculpture made of large pieces of glass. This piece, Comet Glass Star, was made by master glassmaker Simone Cenedese. The sculpture is made from over 500 blown glass bulbs. At night each one of these bulbs lights up! The piece was made for the 2008 Natale di Vetro (Christmas of Glass). This annual Christmas celebration in Murano begins on St. Nicholas Day and lasts one month. People fell so in love with the sculpture that it has remained ever since.

Fondamenta Manin

Take a walk along this side of the canal along the Fondamenta Manin. While the glass stores and galleries along the street are what most people are focusing on, take a minute to draw your eyes up! Murano’s urban architecture is really a marvel. The colours of the houses are vibrant, and there is a real pride Murano residents have in their homes. Flower boxes are always full and almost overflowing with sweet-smelling plants.

Restaurant alla Vecchia Pescheria

Cross over the Ponte de Mezo to head into the Restaurant Alla Vecchia Pescheria. This is a great place to get some delicious lunch! This modern restaurant serves up some of the most artful creations with seafood fresh from the sea just off the shores of Murano! Their spaghetti ala vongole (clams) is one of my favourites, and I honestly could eat it all day!

Fondamenta dei Vetrai

Continuing, you’ll walk along Fondamenta dei Vetrai, which translates into a glassmakers’ street. This street is where you’ll find the largest collection of glassworker shops and stores on the island. You can get ripped off in many places, but hopefully, I have featured some of my favourites here.

Simone Cenedese

One of the best is Simone Cenedese’s shop, the artist who created the amazing comet sculpture from the previous square. Their shop is so amazing as it features both high-end sculptural works of art but also some more adorable items.

Barovier & Toso

One of the oldest and more prestigious glasshouses in Murano is Barovier & Toso. In 1295, the first member of the Barovier family, Jacobello Barovier, began their career in glass in Murano. These learned skills have been passed down and perfected from generation to generation, and now this is one of the most sought-after glass studios in the world! This showroom might contain products far above the price point of most people’s budget, but seeing them really is something to admire. If you want a more in-depth study of their work, book an appointment to visit their newly finished palazzo museum across the water.

A Private Museum

This private museum features 250 objects from the family’s history. Even 22,000 drawings and photos document their progress and work over the years. The tour is free Monday to Friday from 10 am – 12pm and 2 pm – 5pm, but you should book in advance to secure your spot as there is limited availability.

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Fondamenta Serenella

Continuing down the island’s edge, swing around it and head up the western side. The street which wraps about the island’s edge is called Fondamenta Serenella. I love the view you get here over to the main island. The fresh sea air along the street is so strong and refreshing. This is where many of the larger studios have open workrooms that the public can visit. Many of these furnaces have demonstrations showing off their craftsmen at work. These workshops, I think, would have been some of the best places to work as the cool sea air would have been the perfect way to cool down while working near the fire.

A Word about Factory Tours

Going to any Glass Factory tour and demonstration is always a bit of a shot in the dark. What you’ll see really depends on which artists are working that day. I’ve seen SO MANY people online complaining that they didn’t get an in-depth and highly skilled demonstration when they visited a workshop. Most of these demonstrations cost 3-5€ and feature a quick tour of their furnace, plus you’ll get to see an artisan at work. One of the most common demonstrations will feature a craftsman during molten glass and shaping it into a horse.

I recommend paying a higher price for the tours at the Former Church Santa Chiara Murano (which I will get into later), which are much more detailed and informative. But if you just want to see a quick example of how solid glass is moulded into a work of art, then these cheap and cheerful tours are a great option.

Guarnieri Glass Factory

The Guarnieri Glass Factory is one of my favourite shops. I have to say, I was drawn in immediately upon seeing the glass roses decorating the exterior of their workshop. This factory offers a 3€ tour which is short and sweet, but again, if you aren’t looking for something drawn out, it’s a great primer. The best part about this shop is its pieces of jewellery. I purchased a few pairs of earrings for 15€, which I will cherish forever. They have small animals for 15€, which is great for kids. I didn’t experience any pressure to buy, which is always a bonus for these shops.

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Ponte Saint Chiara

Head back to Fondamenta dei Vetrai, and cross over to the easternmost island. The bridge which leads over the canal is the Ponte Saint Chiara. From the center of the bridge, you have a gorgeous view over the canal towards the great Torre dell Orologio.

Former Church Santa Chiara Murano

Upon crossing over the bridge, head directly to your right through a set of wrought-iron doors. This side of Murano is much quieter, and the gateway feels as though it is meant to keep people out! But head right in, and make your way to the Former Church Santa Chiara Murano. This old monastery was originally inhabited by Augustinian Monks as early as 1231. They lived on Murano island before the glass craftsman was sent to set up their furnaces. Before then, the island was a quiet and peaceful place. The church changed hands many times, from the Augustinians to the Benedictines and then to the Franciscans. The Franciscan nuns of Santa Chiara were the last religious order to run the church, and this is where the current name of the building comes from.

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Fratelli Marietti Milan

When Napoleon invaded Venice, he deconsecrated many churches. And Santa Chiara was one of his victims. The church was transformed into a large glass factory in 1826 by glass manufacturer Fratelli Marietti Milan. But Milan didn’t think turning an old church into a glass factory might be a real challenge. He couldn’t keep up with the repairs the building needed. Eventually, he abandoned the building, and it was left in disrepair for ages of time.

Luckily, in 2012 the Belluardo family took it upon themselves to restore this aged monument of Murano. They transformed it from almost nothing more than a pile of bricks into this art gallery, event space and glass museum. Here you can enter the old church and participate in a glass-blowing experience with a twist! They both offer regular glass-blowing demonstrations but also have a unique love-themed experience! The concept was that glass craftsman’s enduring love for their work was one of the primary reasons this amazing art still resounds with people today.

Admission Information

With your admission, you get an entry into the Chiesa di Santa Chiara and a tour of the old church. The interior of this ancient place is amazing as it blends modern art with old bricks and beams. They use the space for events, and I can’t imagine how amazing it would be to participate in a great party under this roof! The tour also features a long glass-blowing demonstration.

Whereas the factory tours last about 5 minutes, you can watch artisans at work here for almost a whole hour. This means you’ll be able to see the creation of a more complex work of art from start to finish. You get what you pay for! Plus, there is a guide throughout your experience to answer any questions you might be curious about.

Ticket Prices: Adult: 8€ | ​Senior: 5€ | Student: 5€
Monday-Saturday at 12 PM and 3 PM

Gino Mazzuccato

Just down the street from the former church is the gallery of Gino Mazzuccato gallery. Founded in 1958, Gino Mazzuccato is one of the largest glass factories in Murano. While the former church focuses on an ancient craftsmanship, Gino Mazzuccato is all about modern and contemporary styles. This studio charges 5€ to see a demonstration, but it’s well worth the cost. Their 6,000-square-foot studio always has multiple artisans at work. They really take time to explain the process. Some other free demonstrations don’t have such accomplished workers on display.

If you are interested in buying an item, this is a great place to spend your money since they really have items that will suit many budgets! You can even buy some of the pieces they make for the demonstrations, which come at real savings. For 5€ you can get a small, blue glass horse and for 10€ a clear glass vase. While simple, these are a great way to remember your trip to Murano at a fraction of the cost.

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Calle Mioti

Walk east down the Calle Mioti, which turns north as you continue. This extremely narrow street is one of the island’s favourite little hidden gems. Here, in this less-visited portion of the island, between these tightly packed walls, is where the glassblowers would have lived for hundreds of years on Murano. While there might not be fancy palaces here, there is something authentic about the histories surrounding the crumbling brickwork.

Murano Lighthouse

Continuing along towards the water, see if you can spot the tiptop of the lighthouse sticking out over the houses. This is the Murano Faro. This lighthouse, which is still active today, was built in 1912. It has served for many years as the guiding light for so many residents as they return home.

The Murano Faro Vaporetto stop is located right beside the lighthouse. From here you can take a boat back to the city. As you drive away, think back to all the amazing things you saw here and imagine what it must have been like for citizens of Venice the first time they saw sand transformed into a work of art!

Murano is one of my favourite short-day trips from Venice, and if you travel all the way there, don’t skip coming to this island! Have you been to Murano before? Did you pick up any incredible works of art? Or are you saving for something truly special? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Ultimate Self-Guided Murano Island Walking Tour [UPDATED 2022] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. When to Visit
2. History
3. Where to Park
4. Old Jerome Cemetery
5. Ghost City Inn
6. House of Joy
7. Jerome's Sliding Jail
8. Cuban Queen Bordello 
9. Husband's Alley
10. Liberty Theatre & Gifts
11. Connor Hotel
12. The Spirit Room
13. Bartlett Hotel
14. Jerome Park
15. Mile High Inn
16. First Episcopal Church
17. The Haunted Hamburger
18. Surgeon's House
19. The Old Company Clinic
20. Asylum Restaurant
21. The Grand Hotel
22. United Verde Mine

When to Visit

Obviously, since this is a ghost tour, the best time for it is at dusk as it day turns to night. But even during the daytime, the abandoned streets and buildings still have an ominous feeling. Three of the locations on this tour are also hotels so for those brave enough to stay overnight, you’re in for an extra treat. Overnight stays allow you to experience the town without as many tourists, and the silence allows for keener ears and eyes to spot those spectres.

History

Jerome was founded in the late 19th century on Cleopatra Hill. It overlooks the scenic Verde Valley, which is 5,000 feet above sea level. During its heyday, it was home to more than 15,000 people. During the first world war, the price of copper soared, and American citizens came here in droves to mine the rich copper quarries that were abundant in this area of the west. Jerome was dubbed the “Wickedest Town in the West” by the New York Sun newspaper in 1903. It had a reputation for rampant gambling, an abundance of alcohol consumption, drug abuse, gunfights and other mayhem. With all of that debauchery came a series of unfortunate deaths, each one relating to the abandon that was felt throughout the town. It was lawless and rarely were crimes investigated to the full extent of the law.

Over the years the town seemed to be cursed. Jerome was subject to numerous fires, earthquakes and other natural disasters. The population continued to decrease and the copper mines dried up. Eventually, it became a ghost town with little to no sustainable source of income. In the late ’60s, the Arizonian Tourism board saw Jerome’s untouched architectural and cultural history to be valuable for visitors. And in 1967 Jerome was established as a Historical Landmark.

State Park and National Mine Museum

In the late 2000s, art galleries and trendy restaurants started popping up to drive more people into the town. The local State Park and National Mine Museum were established to help preserve the history of mining in this village and to educate travelling visitors on the history of Jerome. But what people come to Jerome for these days, are the ghosts! Even if you don’t believe in these spectres, the dark history of the town’s past is a fascinating way to explore its decrepit streets and abandoned buildings.

United Verde Mines

The United Verde Mines in Jerome were a dangerous place. In 1922, the quality of ore they had been mining began to degrade, and they had to switch to open-pit mining. This resulted in multiple fires which plagued the operations. Often, there was no way to control the flames which burned the ore under the ground. These ever-burning fires resulted in dense smoke on the skyline of Jerome for months, a haunting sight to see. The recklessness of the mine owners was in their quest for power and wealth is thought to have cursed the town. Fire after fire, earthquakes, landslides and rampant diseases seem like something more than just chance.

Dynamite and Explosions

If the fires and dynamite explosions didn’t kill the miners, brawls and shootouts would. In its heyday, it is estimated that there were four murders a day in Jerome! Since these men were poor miners there was no money for a funeral and burial. So they were disposed of in the cities smelting furnaces, and the bone fragments from the corpses are literally now still in the foundation of the city itself. It’s a living tomb. Today, the ghosts of these fallen miners are thought to haunt the town, in search of their final resting place.

So many ghosts died in the fires which tore through the camp in the early days of Jerome. At that time, most of the buildings were made from timber, and once something caught fire, it spread rapidly. Being high up on the hill meant that the winds would pick up any bits of burning embers can carry them past where the initial blaze started. In 1898 one of the most massive fires pretty much levelled the entire town to ash and took with it many lives.

Where to Park

After visiting the cemetery, which is on the outskirts of the town, there is a parking lot for anyone on a day trip marked on the map where you can easily leave your car and then head over to the next spot on tour. If you’re staying overnight, almost all the hotels have dedicated parking.

Old Jerome Cemetery

We’ll start our tour on the outskirts of town. Before you even enter the ghost town, you’re immediately met with a sign of its darkened past. The old cemetery once housed over 400 graves and markers, but today almost nothing remains. Because the ground was so tough, most of the time, the earth wasn’t dug too deep to bury the bodies. This meant that animals, such as coyotes, were able to dig up the corpses and drag them from their “eternal” resting place out to the mountains where they were never recovered. Today, the last of the stones and markers are protected with iron fences to ensure they don’t slide right off the cliffside. From this place, you have a panoramic view of the United Verde Mining Operations and the towering Cleopatra hill which rises up above the city.

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Ghost City Inn

This charming red and white painted two storey bed and breakfast seem anything but nefarious. But like everything in Jerome, it’s not what it seems. The Ghost City Inn was initially built in 1885 by the Garcia family as a lodging house for the managers of the various mines. In 1930, a miner staying in the house had constructed a bootleg still in his room. The poorly made machine exploded, causing an enormous fire which engulfed the entire second floor. In the 1950s and 70s, the house went through multiple renovations. This was in an attempt to keep relevant after the closure of the mines.

It became an art gallery, funeral home, spiritual retreat and restaurant. In 1994, it went through its latest transformation into a bed and breakfast where brave visitors stay the night to see if they can spot a ghost. The hotel’s most popular room, the Cleopatra Hill room, a female spirt it thought to be seen roaming the halls. In the Verde View Room, there is a male spirit seen outside the halls spying through keyholes on those people inside. People have seen doors slam on their own and whispering voices in the hallways when no one is there. Perhaps these are the ghosts of the people who perished in the fire, searching for a way out.

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Ladies of the Night

The ghosts of these ‘ladies of the night’ are thought to roam these streets, searching for redemption. High-class escorts worked in brothers where they had madams who took care of their health and safety. But if you were one of the lower class working women, you worked in what was called “the cribs”. These women saw upwards of 30-80 men a night and exposed themselves to harsh conditions, illness and violence.

Dozens of women died either by the hands of jealous clients or passed away from sexually transmitted diseases they weren’t even aware of. One such woman, who is seen wandering the street, was named Sammie Dean. Sammie Dean was murdered on Tuesday July 7th 1931 inside ‘Lil’s place’, a brothel apartment off Hull Ave. Her killer is a mystery but suspects include the Mayors Son, or Deputies Son. She is reportedly spotted in windows along the street, continually looking for her killer.

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House of Joy

The House of Joy on Hull Avenue is now an eclectic shop, but it was once one of the most famous brothels in town. In front of this house, people have said they feel like they are being watched by eyes in the window, despite no one being home. Often you’ll hear footsteps behind you, only to turn and nothing is there. People have even been said to be able to smell old fashioned perfume wafting from nowhere.

This red and black painted bordello was owned by the famous Madam, Nora “Butter” Brown. She was the very first madam to open a brothel in Jerome and taught Madam Jennie everything she knew. Jennie (who we will learn about late) went on to become much more success than Brown herself but learned everything from good ol’ Nora. During one of the many Jerome fires, Nora ran to the fire department and begged them to save her house over all the others. She went so far as to offer all the firefighters free “business” if they managed to save her property. With that kinda incentive its no surprise to hear, her house was saved.

Jerome’s Sliding Jail

Continue walking along Hull Avenue, and as you climb, on your right, down the hill (pathway marked), you’ll find the famous Sliding Jail. As the miners continued to dig and disrupt the steep hillside, many buildings were lost to landslides. And this jail is one of the remaining examples of this phenomenon. In 1936, the earth gave way under the jail, and it literally slid down the hill. It originally was located 200 feet from here, upon the main street.

The concrete cell block literally fell right out of the tin and wood building it was contained within. One can only imagine if someone had been inside this cell or not when it made a run for it. The cell is now reinforced by a few new walls and an iron fence to attempts to keep people out. Spirits have been drawn to this site for years, perhaps ghosts of old prisoners, searching for somewhere familiar.

Cuban Queen Bordello 

Just up from the sliding jail, is the remains of the Cuban Queen Bordello. This building was finally torn down in 2017 as it had been left to rot and eventually collapsed on itself. The once swanky Bordello was the site of one of the town’s most unlucky couple. After drinks in the bordello, two men had a quarrel in the streets, and one had killed the other. The murdered man’s wife, now left with no income became a prostitute at the Cuban Queen Bordello. There she was also shot to death by an estranged lover. Perhaps the angry spirits of the murdered couple brought down the building itself, but no doubt they still roam the area. But at least they are together again in death.

Husband’s Alley

Husbands Alley is the small alley behind what is now the Nellie Blie building. It had a false store front with access down to the Cribs. The Cribs District or ‘Husband’s Alley’ by the locals, as this was where the majority of Jerome’s prostitutes and ladies of the night would set up shop. Miners rarely brought their families with them when they took a position at a mine, and this meant prostitution was rampant. Although prostitution was technically legal, police would look the other way, and the trade was second only to copper in terms of the money brought into Jerome. At one point over 100 prostitutes were working in town.

Brothels and Saloons

These brothels were once located right on the main street, but when Jerome attempted to become a more “family-friendly” town, these establishments were moved to this new area, away from the saloons on the main drag. This meant men could head down to the main street to drink and gamble, and then walk out the back door, to access Husband’s alley. Then they would head back into the saloon once they were finished their “business” and walk out the front of the bar without knowing anyone knowing any the wiser what they had been up to.

Liberty Theatre & Gifts

Turning up Jerome avenue, we come upon the old Liberty Theatre, which now also acts as a gift shop. This was Jerome’s first silent movie theatre. Although the theatre closed in 1929, you can still explore the space it once resided in, and ghosts don’t just head off because of renovations. To this day, the spirit of a former patron haunts the building. Immigrants often came to mining towns as that kind of labour didn’t require too much legal paperwork.

A German-born immigrant woman to the city had struck up an affair with another one of the town’s immigrants. The two had a fight, and the woman fled to the movie theatre to clear her mind. But the man followed her there. He waited until the music got louder and then he strangled her to death, her screams masked by the tune. Today, people have been said to still hear screams coming from the second floor where the theatre once was.

Connor Hotel

Built in 1898 by David Connor, the Connor Hotel is one of Jerome precious jewels of the past. Formerly this hotel was built with over twenty rooms on the second floor to house all the different travelling miners, businessmen and contractors coming from all over the west to cash in on the natural resources to be found here Verde Valley. Rooms only cost $1.00 but back in that day that was a king’s ransom and the Connor Hotel didn’t disappoint. There were a bar, card room and even billiard tables on the first floor. Everything inside the Connor Hotel felt luxurious. It was the top of the line for hotels in the West, know all over Arizona. Just like the Bartlett hotel down the street, the Connor hotel also suffered at the hands of the flames and burned down in 1898.

Because there was so little land that could be built upon and all the buildings downtown were built do close together once a fire started, it spread very quickly, and there was no stopping it. But unlike many other shop owners, Connor had purchased insurance and was able to start construction on his new hotel very quickly. He made some lavish improvements on the previous hotel, including making this one in brick (much more fireproof) and was up and running right away.

Trouble at the Hotel

But as the mines began to run dry and the travelling miners went back home, the hotel started to run out of money. And by 1931 the hotel had to close its doors, for what they thought would be the last time. It still tried to rent out its first floor to different shops to make some money but the second floor remained dormant. It wasn’t until the late 60s with the tourist boom that it was transformed into a hotel once more. After a considerable renovation to update the hotel to modern safety codes and health standards, the hotel is inviting travellers back through its doors to experience a piece of history.

The Connor Hotel is haunted by an unnamed male spirit who loves to play with and manipulate electronics. He loves to turn on and off radios, TVs, telephones, and computers. This man’s presence can be sensed with cold spots in an otherwise warm room, or sometimes the echo of his voice can be heard calling from down the dark and creaky hallways.

Ms. Marie Gallagher

Another famous incident at the hotel involved a woman named Ann Hopkins. Ann’s husband was having an affair with a local school teacher, Ms. Marie Gallagher. In a jealous rage, Ann bought carbolic acid and waited till Gallagher was coming to the hotel to meet her husband. Ann caught her in the lobby and threw the acid in her face. The school teacher, Ms. Marie Gallagher, was not killed in the acid attack, but Ann was sent to jail for about 6 years, and came back to Jerome, living for a time inside the Connor Hotel room #1. Today, her spirit returns to haunt the hotel.

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The Spirit Room

On the lower level of the Connor Hotel, you’ll find the Spirit Room. Be sure to stop in here for a drink along your journey as the desert heat can leave any traveller mighty thirsty. This famous ghost sighting stop is a must-see building along your tour. Many people have seen a mysterious woman in red who comes into the Spirit Room to quench her ever-present thirst. She is a bit of a flirt and is thought to caresses the fingers, faces and necks of visitors. Whispering sweet nothings in their ears. If you take photos inside the spirit room, look for a red smudge, as this is her telltale lipstick stain. The lady in red has also been known to crawl right into bed with male guests who she takes a particular liking to.

Bartlett Hotel

The original building built on this spot was once called the Grandview Hotel and was constructed in 1895. It was a dancehall, a dining room and a high-society social club. In 1898 a great fire broke out throughout the city, and the hotel was destroyed. The Bartlett Hotel was rebuilt in 1901, this time using bricks, hoping this would help withstand another fire. It was a lavish hotel. Each room was decorated in a different colour, making every guest feel uniquely special.

The New Jerome’s Times, the longest-running newspaper, ran its offices out of the Bartlett hotel for 20 years until it had to shut its doors due to poor circulation. But in the late 1940s, the building became unstable and eventually abandoned. Now, all that’s left of it is the framing. The Jerome Historical Society has set up wooden ghosts for tourists to throw pennies into. The money collected is raised for future repairs and hopefully more preservation efforts throughout the city. 

Jerome Park

Across from the Bartlett, the hotel is the old Jerome Park. I hesitate to call it a park; it’s little more than a rusted swing set and an empty patch of land. But this is where one of the many deadly shootouts in Jerome took place. Alcohol and boredom fueled the fires of many a miner’s heads and after one too many, feuds between men, often over the love of a woman, would get heated enough to be taken outside and ended in a bloody shoot out. People often walking the streets at night have heard the sound of gunshots, but the shooter is never found and often thought to be echoes of the past.

Mile High Inn

Beside the park is the infamous Mile High Inn. This establishment was once owned by a woman named Madam Jennie Bauters. She was the wealthiest woman in northern Arizona. Jennie arrived in Jerome when it was nothing more than tents and shacks. There was no real main street to be heard of. But what there were was men. The original building which became the Mile High Inn was first the Clinkscales Building. It was built in 1899 by an insurance adjuster from Los Angeles. It was many things over the years, including a mortuary, one of Jennie’s Brothels, then a Hardware store when Jennie left Jerome in 1903.

The brothel was exceptionally well furnished, with a large front reception room and interior bedrooms dripping with luxurious velvet. These were for the elite of Jerome and Jennie made a pretty penny from these extravagances. The “sinful” business flourished, but despite her seemingly perfect life, Jennie had her fair share of troubles. One of her best girls, Maggie Shults, was murdered in the house by a rejected suitor. He shot her multiple times and then turned the gun on himself on the second floor.

Jennie’s Murderer

But Jennie didn’t let one measly murderer get her down. No, her business was booming, and she was buying up more and more property on Jerome’s main street. Jennie was killed in the small mining town called Acme Gold Road. The town changed its name to just ‘Gold Road’ in 1906. She was seen running down the street in her nightgown barefooted pleading for her life. Clement, her lover, was a gambler, heavy drinker, and always asked her for money. She turned him down one night for money, and he got angry and killed her.

After he realized what he had done he shot himself in the chest. The he lay down next to her dead body and covered his face with his hat, ready to die. He survived, was arrested and taken to jail, and was hung for Jennie’s murder in 1907. She was buried in Kingman at the old Pioneer cemetery. But has been seen still returning to Jerome to visit her old haunts.

Today’s Mile High Inn

Today, the Mile High Inn is much as it was in the 1940s, although remodelled to become a restaurant and hotel. The Madame herself is known to be seen roaming the halls of her institution, looking after the girls as she would have done in life. Jennie is pretty particular about how her home is kept and has been seen throwing dishes if they are not put away correctly or leaving fingerprints on the bed frames as she attempts to clean them. Visitors have come back to their room with the furniture moved around and doors locking and unlocking by themselves.

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First Episcopal Church

The First Episcopal Church was built in Jerome in 1900 but moved to its current building on Clark Street in 1927. Although the church closed its doors in 1953 when the mines closed, the Jerome Historical Society bought the property in 1953 to ensure it was not lost to the ages. Today they use this place for their archives and administration. If you come to her at twilight, you’ll get the chance to meet the church’s resident ghost. She is a woman, robed in white mist, who often stands in the doorway of the church, looking out at the town from this high vantage point.

The Haunted Hamburger

If you’re looking for a place to eat which serves up a side of the spooks, then you must head over to the Haunted Hamburger. While the menu is pretty standard diner fare, the ambience and stories from the locals you’ll learn while visiting are what you really come for. Chefs say that while in the kitchen, ghosts like to throw utensils around to tease them. Contractors swear that the ghosts have been known to steal their tools. A spirit by the name of Claire is thought to wander the second floor, and often you can head footsteps when they swear no one is up there.

Surgeon’s House

This old home, once the residence of the town’s surgeon, is haunted by many spirits. The surgeon was like a celebrity. He was often the richest man in Jerome who was old not a miner. He was a scholar and an educated man. Women were enthralled by these men from big cities. And miners were impressed by the stories they would tell of these lives, so different from the ones they knew. The Surgeons House was the site of many cocktail parties that would rage well into the late hours of the evening.

To this day, phantom music has been known to play, heard all across town. These days the old house is bed and breakfast. And guests have been known to see spectres dancing through the halls. These ghosts seem rather friendly and are just there to have a good time, as they did in life. A famous ghost dressed in a blue gown is frequently seen laughing through the halls. Often chasing a man seen carrying a leather doctors bag, perhaps the surgeon himself.

The Old Company Clinic

The Old Company Clinic was the second hospital to be built in Jerome. It was where, during the 1918 flu epidemic, hundreds of Jerome’s residents came to attempt to be treated. Unfortunately, hundreds of those people died, and their souls are thought to haunt this building. People claim to have said they’ve seen eyes in the windows and patients in turn of the century gowns walking around the 2nd floor. Doctors and nurses rush from room to room, as they would have done while they were alive, trying to cope with the hundreds of sick and dying people who came through their doors. The flu was genuinely horrific to behold and the imprint this terror wrought on the people who witnessed it made a lasting impression on the town, even years after the fateful events.

Crematory

When the third hospital was built, now the Grand Hotel, this one was left to rot. But not for long. The doctors and nurses began using it as a kind of social clubhouse in 1927, to retire in after a long day at work. It had a library, pool tables and lounge. But once the winter came, they found there was no heating in the building. Going on at the same time, the new hospital realized they did not have a working crematory to dispose of their dead bodies. Never to squander an opportunity, the doctors saw a solution to both their problems. They began using the crematory in the old hospital to burn bodies and heat their clubhouse all at once. Despite the ingenuity of the solution, this imbued the entire place with ghosts angry to be thought of as nothing more than coal for these doctors.

Ghost of the Little Girl

The last famous ghost to see if you can spot is that of a little girl. She is often seen sitting near the front door of the old hospital waiting for her mother. Her mother had come down with the flu and the little girl starved to death waiting for her mother to return home, although she never did as she died in hospital of the flu. The little girl often will only come out to maternal figures who she thinks might be her mother returning to her.

Asylum Restaurant

The Award-Winning Asylum Restaurant located at the Jerome Grand Hotel offers lunch and dinner services every day. The restaurant overlooks the entire Verde Valley and provides the diners one of the most amazing views. Although the name seems a bit cheesy, the decor inside is beautiful art deco from the period the building was constructed. The food is all classic dishes and is wonderfully prepared by some of the best chefs in the Valley. The select dishes include Pastrami Salad, Char-Broiled Chilean Grilled Salmon and Mesquite Bacon Wrapped Filet Mignon. If you’re looking for a spot to eat dinner, this is an excellent choice for something a little more luxurious!

The Grand Hotel

The new Jerome Grand Hotel was initially built in 1926 as the Verde County Hospital. The hospital was designed in the Spanish mission revival style of architecture which was so popular at the time. It was one of the last significant buildings to be constructed in Jerome. Since it was so far away from the city centre, it avoided a lot of the fires that broke out downtown and therefore remained its original facade. Also, because it was a hospital and contained so many expensive machines, it was made to be fireproof and withstand dynamite blasts of up to 260,000 pounds.

In 1926 it was the most modern and well-equipped hospitals in Arizona as the mining finances paid for the best services money could afford. But by the 50s, when the mining dried up, the hospital closed down. The building stood unused for 44 years until it was renovated by the Altherr family in 1994 and was turned into a hotel for tourists. The family made many efforts to keep the structure and design of the original hospital to maintain its historical memory. But this also kept within its walls, the ghosts who passed away inside these walls. It was thought that over 9,000 people lost their lives here in this very spot.

Ghosts of the Hotel

Even if you’re not staying in the hotel, venture inside the lobby where some of the most restless spirits are found. Sitting in the dimly lit waiting room, you might spot the old woman in elegant clothes who is thought to be waiting for her husband. Items have flown off the gift shop shelves, doors close on their own and the front desk phone often rings with calls from unoccupied rooms. Behind the front desk of the lobby is still in working 1920’s elevator.

Claude Harvey

The most famous ghost of them all who lives in the hotel is Claude Harvey. Claude was a maintenance worker in the hospital during the 1930s. Claude was well-liked by everyone in town, and when he was found dead at the bottom of the elevator shaft, pinned under the elevator, everyone was shocked. There was an official inquest into his death where they discovered that his neck had been broken before the fall, and there were several strange scratch marks on his body not caused by the fall. In the end, the death was ruled an accident, but many people in town thought otherwise.

Shortly after his death, strange occurrences began at the hospital, specifically around the elevator. Even when no one is inside the lights go on and off and it sounds like someone is walking around inside. The owners went so far as to think someone had been breaking into the hospital and living there unbeknownst to anyone else, but no one was ever found. To this day, any strange occurrences in the elevator are thought to be the ghost of Claude.

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The Old Hospital Ghosts

The 3rd floor was where the operating room was and where most patients lost their lives. For years people have reported hearing coughing, painful groans and cries of distress echoing through the halls. Despite replacing the old wooden floorboards with sound cancelling carpet, guests have been known to hear the rolling of old hospital gurneys on wood floors. The most famous spirit on the 3rd floor is that of an old bearded miner who has been seen turning the lights on and off in the hallways.

Strange occurrences have happened to the living inside the hotel as well. In-room number 32, a man in wheelchair mysteriously managed to fall off a balcony, reportedly committing suicide. In the same room, only a few years later, a businessman shot himself in the face. A caretaker was hanged, and there were multiple murders throughout the hotel. Although this could be due to the “wildness” of the town, the thought of these deaths being influenced by ghosts of the past is hard not to imagine.

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Maternity Ward

On the 4th floor, where the maternity ward once was, there is a ghost of a mother who lost her baby in childbirth. She still roams the halls, frantically searching for her little baby. People report smells coming from unoccupied rooms such as cigar smoke and whiskey, in the waiting room where expectant fathers would have once waited.

United Verde Mine

From the parking lot of the Grand Hotel, you have a beautiful view across Verde Valley, and the old United Verde Mines. Beneath the entire city of Jerome, there are old mine shafts and tunnels which are thought to be the resting place of hundreds of miners. One famous ghost is named “headless Charlie” who was decapitated in an accident years ago. His head was recovered but the rest of him, much like the headless horsemen, was never found. After his death, many other miners would report hearing groaning and shuffling as if it was the ghost of Charlie searching for his lost head.

Today, standing on the cliff of these mines, the wind can play tricks on you, and you might hear what sounds like the echos of men trapped beneath the earth for eternity. Cries in the distance are a common occurrence, and here in the uneasy quiet, there is almost always something which can trick your mind into thinking it heard something quite not of this earth…or many it was just that.

Jason S. Voss

A BIG thanks to Jason S. Voss, who helped clear up a few facts for us! Jason has worked for the Jerome Historical Society and works for Jerome’s oldest local tour company, Tours Of Jerome. He is also an amazing local artist. Feel free to contact him for a personal tour of the city! Jason was a contributor to the book “Haunted Jerome” which just came out 3 months ago written by Midge Stueber and Pat Jacobson. If you’re interested in learning more about Jerome I would highly recommend you pick up a copy!

I’ve been to Jerome multiple times, and the people who live here LOVE telling stories. In addition to taking this walking tour, make time to chat with the locals as everyone seems to have had their own personal ghost encounter which they are eager to share! If you’ve ever had your own haunted happening let me know in the comments!

HAPPY HALLOWEEN ADVENTURERS

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Table Of Contents

1. History
2. DIY Tour
3. How to get to Cascais
4. By car
5. by Train
6. Getting Around in Cascais
7. Car
8. Walking & Bike Rental
9. Tourist Bus (a word of caution)
10. Public Bus
11. Uber
12. What time of year to go?
13. Self Guided Tour
14. Stop #3: Boca do Inferno
15. Stop#12: Rue Frederico Arouca

History

Cascais, pronounced “cash-ky”, is a word developed from the Portuguese “cascas” which means “shells” since the town was located so close to the waters where thousands of shells would wash ashore. The town’s proximity to the seas made it a hub for fishing and the money it brought in from those exports gained it the privilege of self-government in 1370 as decreed by King Fernando. Cascais rose to prominence with the title, and it became the first place Portuguese navigators would see when they returned from voyages around the world.

Lighthouses, military operations and forts were all built to support the town as a great lookout point for the country’s capital, Lisbon. Over the years, as the naval wars began to dwindle, its use as defensive maritime fortresses waned. But it’s elegant architecture, and charming city structure meant that people continued to flock to its shores and it was transformed into a luxury beach town for the aristocracy of Portugal. Years later, Cascais is most famous as being the writing haunt of famed author Ian Fleming, who wrote the classic James Bond novels in a hotel in Cascais. He had visited the town when he fought in World War II and came back here to write after the war was over. Many of the seaside settings throughout his novels all have some inspiration drawn from his experiences in Cascais.

DIY Tour

When we were planning our trip to Cascais and Cabo da Roca, we couldn’t understand why we couldn’t find much information online about a do-it-yourself tour. A lot of people visit Cascais and Cabo da Roca as a part of a day trip, sometimes also paired with a visit to Sintra. After visiting both Sintra and Cascais (along with Cabo da Roca) I genuinely do not know how they do it all in one short day. I suppose it’s more of a drive by viewing rather than a chance to really explore and understand each one of these incredible places. There is simply too much to see!

I think with this guide you can easily explore the wonders of Cascais and Cabo da Roca on at your own pace and save a ton of money too. It might require a little extra planning and effort on your part but if you’re up for it than I think it will pay you back in dividends.

How to get to Cascais

By car

If you have a vehicle getting to Cascais is a breeze, it’s just 35 minutes outside the centre of Lisbon. Parking can be found easily across Cascais and the surrounding countryside. On very busy days parking can be tough at the beach but there is usually places to park along the roadside where you can then walk over to the beach. Be sure to have coins for the tolls.

by Train

If you don’t have a car, not to fear. There is a train which leaves from Cais do Sodré station in Lisbon which services Cascais in just under an hour. The train journey costs just 2.20€. Be sure to have your metro zapping card with you since it makes jumping on and off the train easier than buying individual tickets.

Getting Around in Cascais

Car

If you have a rental car you can just drive from point to point from each of the destinations listed in this guide. Of all the methods of transports it’s the least complicated but does require the investment of the rental car. If you haven’t already rented one for the rest of your trip I don’t advise that you need to rent one just for this day-trip, it’s easily manageable without.

Walking & Bike Rental

The town of Cascais is relatively small, so walking around the sites in town is super easy on foot. If you just want to explore the beaches along the coast, there are bike rentals all over the place and bike paths too which makes getting to and from those areas a breeze! You can walk to most of the beaches but renting a bike is just that much more fun! While biking or hiking all the way up to the furthest point on our tour isn’t for the faint of heart it would be an absolutely beautiful hike/bike for those who are up for the challenge.

Tourist Bus (a word of caution)

To get out to all the destinations in this guide without a car, you’ll need to take the Scotturb buses. We opted for the tourist hop-on-hop-off bus, but honestly, we weren’t that impressed. When I got home I saw just how abysmal the reviews were and with good reason. When we told the driver we wanted to get off at Praia do Guincho, he seemed shocked that we actually wanted to “hop off” on a hop-on-hop-off bus! And even after asking he didn’t remember to stop. I ran up to the front and reminded him and only then did he, grumpily may I add, pull over and let us out. Our experiences certainly don’t look out of the norm based on the 1-star rating, and I’m surprised they still have this service up and running.

Advice on the Bus

If you have the money to spend and don’t mind waiting on late drivers and being firm about telling them where you want to get off and making sure they do indeed stop, then go ahead with the sightseeing bus but just be sure to read the reviews before you do! The upside to this bus is that you can “easily” get to all the destinations without having to figure out the public bus routes. Hopefully they’ll be improving this service, let me know if you decide to venture out on it and how your experience rates. The sightseeing Cascais buses run every 45 minutes from around 10 am to 5 pm but be sure to get the updated schedule from the main loading dock at the Cascais train terminal. A ticket costs €20 (€10 children under 12) + 0.50 card, and is valid for 24 hours.

Public Bus

The public transport system to and from different destinations in Cascais is a bit complicated. I understand how they get tourists suckered into only using the “sightseeing buses”. That being said, you can absolutely do this tour using the local buses. I’ve made sure to mark all the stops down on the map at the bottom of the post. I’ve also detailed each step out for you in this guide since most people are likely using public transport to get around. Fares on the bus cost €1.15 per journey and you’ll only need to ride them 4 times so the savings compared to the sightseeing bus are very significant. The three bus routes you’ll need are the 403, 414, and 415. (I’ve linked each of their schedules here as well as within the post.)

Uber

Another option is taking Ubers to and from each location. Depending on how many people you’re with, you could actually save some money here compared to the sightseeing bus. Uber’s cost around €12-17 from Cascais to Cabo da Roca. €9-13 from Cabo da Roca to Guincho Beach. And €5-8 from Guincho Beach to Boca de Inferno. The highest estimated cost is €38, which is actually cheaper than two people taking the tourist bus! The only risk you might consider is that there wouldn’t be any Ubers driving around that day. If so, you can easily find the nearest public transport option and hop on that.

What time of year to go?

The cooler weather during the winter and late fall makes Cascais a little less appealing to visit. Lying out on the hot sand and soaking in the surf and the sun is all part of the coastal experience. But if you do choose to visit during “off-season” you’ll be rewarded with less crowded attractions. The buses run on a slightly modified schedule during the winter so be aware of that as well if you choose to come down in the winter.

Spring and early summer are the best times to visit. Even on a hot day, the winds off the water, bring the temperature down a lot compared to in the city. And if you’re too hot, you can always just jump into the water to cool down! Try your best to come during the week since the weekends and holidays mean the beaches are packed.

Self Guided Tour

Stop #1: Cabo da Roca

After arriving at the Cascais train station, the first stop on your journey should be Cabo da Roca. Cabo da Roca is the furthest point on our tour from the Cascais terminal. It’s good to get it done first thing in the morning as it’s also the most popular sight on tour. Around midday, it can get extremely crowded so early mornings really pay off. I’d recommend leaving Lisbon just after 8 am to arrive in Cascais bright and early. Grab a few pastries and a cup of coffee for the train ride and enjoy the scenery as you go!

If you’re driving, you can simply head up the road and leave your car in the National Park’s parking lot. For the bus, catch #403 from the Cascais bus terminal. If you choose to take the sightseeing tourist bus, you can catch this outside of Cascais Train station as well. Either way, you go, you should reach the peaks of Cabo da Roca in around 20-30 minutes depending on traffic.

The ride up to Cabo da Roca was actually one of my favourite parts of the trip. It seemed as we climbed up the cliffside, the environment around us kept changing. At one point we were driving along coastal beaches and sand dunes, in another minute we were surrounded by lush rainforest-like trees, and finally, after coming through the forest, we reached the top of the mountains, and there seemed to be nothing but rocks, cliffs,green grass and a never ending expanse of ocean.

TIP: Even on warm days Cabo da Roca is exceptionally windy, and it’s higher altitude makes it pretty chilly! Be sure to bring a sweater or jacket with you.

Cabo da Roca

Arriving at Cabo da Roca, you’ll first notice the red-topped lighthouse and terracotta roofs of the building of the National Park office. But the real draw of Cabo da Roca doesn’t open itself up to you until you step off the bus or car, and walk down to the cliff’s edge. And then wow! What a sight! Cabo da Roca is famously the westernmost point of mainland Europe.

Looking out across cliffs you’ll see nothing but a vast expanse of sparkling blue waters belonging to the Atlantic Ocean. To the left, you’ll have the most spectacular view of the Serra de Sintra coastline as well. While Cabo da Roca is now a big tourist attraction, in the 17th century it’s purpose was mainly defensive. From this vantage point, guards could see any incoming ships which would be approaching Lisbon’s harbour. A considerable advantage in their maritime strategy, especially during the Peninsular Wars.

Lighthouse

The iconic lighthouse which sits on the top of the cliffs is not only a beautiful sight to see but an essential part of Portugal’s history as it is the oldest lighthouse in the country. It was built in 1772 and once was the guiding light for sailors on their way back home. Today you can find a quaint souvenir shop inside, with an overpriced “certificate” of your visit to the westernmost part of Europe, but it mostly just adds to the scenery of the entire location.

Be sure to take a walk down the entire cliffside, the view changes as you continue walking and the landscape towards the northeastern part of the park is absolutely stunning. It looked so much like the green fields of Scotland or Ireland and not like something in the middle of the Mediterranean.

Stop #2: Praia do Guincho

Our next stop is Praia do Guincho, one of the most famous and magnificent beaches on this coastline. To get here if you’re driving, it’s an absolute breeze, just a few minutes drives from Cabo da Roca. If you have a tourist bus ticket, you can get on the next bus returning to Cascais but BE SURE to not only tell your driver you want to get off at Praia do Guincho but also you sit near the driver and make sure to remind him as you approach (you shouldn’t have to do this but since he missed out stop altogether its better to be safe than sorry).

If you’re using public transport hop onto the Scotturb bus #403 and get off at Malveira da Serra, which is the first stop on the bus after getting on at Cabo da Roca. From Malveira da Serra stop change onto the bus #414 and jump off at the Charneca stop. The Charneca bus stop is located about a 25 minutes walk from the beach, and while the walk might not be “ideal”, it’s the easiest and quickest way (not to mention cheapest) when using public transport. Plus, the walk from Charneca is actually delightful since you get to see all the different houses and rural landscape of the suburbs of Cascais along the way. I’ve included a map of the walking route from the bus stop to the beach here so you can follow along.

Arrival at the Beach

Once you get to the beach, you can just relax! This beach is famous the world over for surfing. Since it is one of the windiest beaches in Portugal you’ll see hundreds of surfers, windsurfers and kite surfers here no matter the weather! It’s immensely entertaining to watch them out in the water! The beach is located on the edge of the Serra de Sintra National Park, which means that it’s natural beauty has been, and continues to be, preserved and protected. Due to the high winds, the beach is covered in sculptural sand dunes giving it that dynamic appearance. Grass grows through the sand and creates a strong contrast against the white sands and crystal blue waters.

Cresmina Beach

The beach is the perfect spot to grab some lunch with a view. While there are several Michelin star restaurants along the beach, these are enormously expensive (I was SHOCKED), and while they’re highly rated, most of us won’t have that kind of money to spend. But the real shock was the little beach we found at Cresmina Beach (located just on the other side of the dunes from Praia do Guincho). We thought this small shop would have nothing but chips and soda but were pleasantly surprised to find that they served hot pizza, salads, sandwiches and more! And best of all they were well priced and really delicious. Washed down with a freshly made sangria as you sit and enjoy the sound of waves crashing on the sand what more can you ask for?

I would recommend spending a few hours here. Have a leisurely lunch, walk along the beach, if the waves aren’t too intense you can even jump in the water for a swim! Cresmina Beach is a little calmer, and you’ll find more people swimming here while Praia do Guincho is THE place to be for surfing. We sat and watched the surfers for hours, it was pleasantly mesmerizing. We visited in May and despite the warm weather the beach wasn’t overcrowded and there still was a lovely peaceful atmosphere to the whole place.

Stop #3: Boca do Inferno

Next up on the itinerary is Boca de Inferno. To get here, if you have a car or are Ubering it’s located just 9 minutes down the road. The hop-on-hop-off tourist bus will also drop you off there (the stop after Guincho Beach) or if you want to take public transport, you can get on bus #415 which picks you up right from Guincho beach. Get off at the stop Bairro do Rosário and walk the 17 minutes towards the cliffs. Map of the walking route is located below.

“Boca do Inferno” in Portuguese means “Hell’s Mouth”. It sounds a lot scarier than it really is. It’s actually quite stunning. Over the years, this rocky outcrop’s proximity to the strong waves created a cave, which then collapsed, leaving a natural arch as a window into the water filled chasm. There is something truly magical about watching the waves as they splash and crash inside the dark cave. They swirl and spin, changing colours as they move and swell.

Aleister Crowley

One of the strangest parts of this place’s history is its involvement in the “death” of famed magician and astrologer Aleister Crowley. The occultist came here to fake his death in 1930 with the help of poet Fernando Pessoa. It was meant as a publicist stunt to promote the opening of an exhibition of Crowley’s work at a gallery in Berlin, where he “magically” reappeared when the doors were opened. Perhaps one of the first “social media” stunts of the 20th century.

Stop #4: the Santa Marta Lighthouse

From the Boca de Inferno, we will walk the rest of the way back into town. You can also drive back into Cascais, but the walk along the coast is a short and beautiful one with a few small things to see along the way. The Santa Marta Lighthouse is a very Portuguese looking lighthouse, covered with a striped pattern of white and blue tiles. The lighthouse was built on the site of a 17th-century fort in 1868. Although it has long been put out of use, it now maintains itself as a little museum and lovely piece of traditional decoration along the coast. The manor house it sits behind is a coast paradise and duo, along with scenic palm trees is a picture perfect photo.

Along the cobblestone pedestrian walkway back into town, you’ll pass dozen of the enormous estates and gorgeous houses. Some of these mansions were built back in the 17th century by the rich and famous of Lisbon’s high society. One of these famous mansions is the Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães. This manor house is now a small museum housing paintings, ancient artefacts & old books collected by the owner, now open to the public.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Stop #5: Citadel of Cascais

Continuing along the road you’ll see the large, rocky walls of the Citadel of Cascais start to emerge as you creep closer to the city. These fortifications were built in the 15th and 17th centuries to defend the Cascais coastline. There are three different buildings which make up the entire complex; the tower of Santo António de Cascais, the Fortress of Our Lady of Light and the former Royal Palace. You might be surprised to learn that the Royal Palace was restored and converted into a hotel in the 21st century. It’s incredible private chapel is now used to host some of the most amazing weddings which bring people from all over the world to Cascais.

Stop #6: Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Assunção

One of the most amazing churches in Cascais is the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption or “Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Assunção“. The church dates all the way back to the 16th century, and because Cascais was left virtually untouched by war or modernization, the church maintains its historic design. Inside you’ll find golden niches surrounded in stunning blue an white 18th-century traditional Portuguese tile work.

Stop #7: Ribeira Beach Cascais

Turning along the Avenue Dom Carlos, you’ll come upon Ribeira Beach in the town Cascais. Imagine having a beach this beautiful just steps away from the centre of town! You could even come down here on your lunch break! The beach is full of brightly coloured umbrellas, laughing children playing in the sand and there is ALWAYS a team of volleyball players battling it out on the small court.

Behind the beach is a classic Portuguese square with those iconic black and white cobblestones in a wave pattern. You’ll see this same pattern used all over Portugal but set right next to the ocean it feels even more appropriate. Also in the square is a beautiful bronze statue of a woman whose leg’s form the shape of a wave, her body wrapped in a ship’s rope. She looks out towards the ocean, perhaps eternally waiting for sailor to return home.

Stop #8: Palacete Seixas

Standing on the beach, you can see a castle-like structure in the distance, this is the Palacete Seixas. This old military fort was transformed in the 19th century into a grand mansion for a wealthy aristocrat to live in. When he died, he left the structure to the Portuguese Marines in his last will and testimony. Today it’s used as a meeting office for Marine officials but also creates a wonderful backdrop for beachgoers.

Stop #10: Cascais Town Hall

Opposite the beach is the great Town Hall, distinguishable by its ornate facade covered in azulejos (Portuguese tiles) depicting various Catholics Saints across the facade.

In the centre of the Town Hall square is the statue of King Peter the 1st. King Peter was the one who declared Cascais a township and gave them independence from Sintra in 1364. Before this, Cascais was seen as Sintra’s little brother. A community simply put in place to support the people of Sintra, but over the years it’s fishing industry swelled beyond anyone’s expectations, and it began bringing in more money for Portugal than Sintra ever could. It felt strongly that it deserved this designation, but it wasn’t until King Peter that Cascais was finally able to become its own independent city and therefore King Peter is greatly respected amongst the people of Cascais.

Stop#11: Largo Luís de Camões

Just down from the Town Hall is Largo Luís de Camões, a pedestrian-only street which is where you’ll find dozens of lively bars and restaurants. So many of the roads which connect to Largo Luís de Camões are also worth exploring, they are littered in pretty pastel houses replete with flowers pouring off their rooftops. Around each corner, see if you can spot the incredible tiled street signs which make even the most simple alley look like a royal lane.

Stop#12: Rue Frederico Arouca

A little way up from the Largo Luís de Camões, turn right and continue down Rue Frederico Arouca, another street dedicated to pedestrians only. This street is filled with eclectic shops, souvenir stores and gorgeous old architecture full of character. This is a great place to shop for some items for friends and family back home as its relaxed atmosphere is one of the best places to leisurely find some hidden gems.

Stop#13: Jardim Visconde da Luz

At the top of the main street is the Jardim Visconde da Luz, a beautiful park where locals come to play with their kids and get away from the heat of the sun under the shade of these green trees. In the centre of this adorable square is one of the most beautiful carousels I’ve ever seen! Only children can ride it since it’s so small, but each of the animals on the carousel is so charmingly sculpted and full of life! Unlike some carousels which are more fantastical, this one is filled with farm animals which look like they’ve been plucked straight from a nursery rhyme.

Stop#14: Moules and Gin

Across from the park is a little restaurant serving up one of Cascais’ specialities; seafood – specifically, mussels! Moules and Gin is a low key, off the tourist track, restaurant popular with locals due to its low prices and straightforward menu which only aims to highlight the incredible taste of fresh seafood right from the ocean!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Stop#15: Gelados Santini

For dessert, just follow the line up around the block surrounding Gelados Santini. Beach towns really do manage to have the best ice cream and gelato, the perfect combination for a day out in the sand and sun. The handmade gelato is fresh, and if there are any seasonal flavours, those are a must-have! The strawberry flavour feels like licking the berries right off the vine!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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With the last lick of gelato comes the end of our day in Cascais. To return back to Lisbon just hop back on the same train which brought you here or head back to the city in your car. Having dinner and dessert in Cascais means you’ll miss the end-of-day rush of both locals and tourists heading back into the city. Hopeful you’ll be swayed into coming over to Cascais on your own and skip the bus tours.

There is just so much to see here, and those organized tours are much too rushed for the rich history which Cascais offers up. With a little effort and organization, you can absolutely see all there is to see here on your own. If you have any questions about Cascais, let me know in the comments! I can’t wait to return and perhaps even spend the night to see this fantastic city when the sun sets, and there’s nothing but the sound of the ocean crashing on the shore to lull me to sleep

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Discover the Beauty of Portugal’s Coastline: A Complete Guide to Cascais and Cabo Da Roca first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. How to Get to Sintra & the Moorish Castle
   • When to Visit the Moorish Castle
2. Accessing the Moorish Castle
   • Uber
   • Walking to the Moorish Castle
3. Hours & Admission
   • Why Visit?
   • Accessibility
4. History of the Moorish Castle
   • King Alfonso VI
   • Castle of the Moors
5. Entrance to the Castle
7. Granaries
9. Archaeological Tombs
11. Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim
13. Stables
15. Cisterns
17. Castle Walls
19. Arms Square
21. Door of Betrayal
23. Wall Pathways
25. Tower Keep
27. Royal Tower
29. Happy Travel Adventurers

How to Get to Sintra & the Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is located in Sintra and easily accessible from Lisbon by trains leaving Rossio station. The trip requires no transfers and takes around 40 minutes. The round-trip journey costs just 4.50€, making it one of the most cost-efficient day trips. There are trains out to Sintra almost every 40 minutes. If you plan to visit the Moorish Castle as a part of a ‘Day Trip to Sintra,’ where you’ll see a few of the fantastic residences, I highly recommend getting the train before 8 am.

The train schedule changes slightly throughout the year, so I didn’t want to give you an exact time but leaving before 8 am means you’ll arrive before 9 am giving yourself plenty of time to get to your first destination with some time to spare before it opens. Sintra seems to explode with tourist buses as the morning wears on so early really pays off. But if you’re only planning on visiting the Moorish Castle, you don’t need to worry too much about crowds or leaving early. The Moorish Castle is the least crowded of all the sights since, even on busy days, the large open spaces allow everyone to spread out so it never seems too crowded.

When to Visit the Moorish Castle

Since the Moorish Castle is entirely located outside, visiting on a beautiful day will make your experience much more enjoyable. Winter is when you’ll find the least tourists, and if you can brave the weather, the almost abandoned appearance of the castle is something extraordinary to experience. Summertime can be a bit hot, so just be sure to lather on sunscreen if you’ll be out all day. Spring and Fall are the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is reliably the least busy time throughout the week to visit. Avoid holidays when possible, as these bring in Portuguese tourists.

Accessing the Moorish Castle

There are three options for getting to the Moorish Castle. The first is to take public buses located right outside Sintra Station. The bus to take is #434, which services the Moorish Castle. This bus tends to have pretty big lines up at the train station stop since everyone getting on needs to purchase their day ticket, which slows things down. But once you have your pass, it’s super easy to jump on and off throughout the day. Tickets for this bus cost 5€ for a 24-hour pass.

Uber

The second option is jumping in an Uber. Ubers are a great way to get around Sintra but be warned that because some of the streets are one way up a long and winding hill, some drivers might take a while to get to you or might cancel frequently. The Uber ride from the train station to the Moorish Castle is around 6€ depending on the time of day and the weather. If you’re travelling with 3 or 4 people, Uber can save you some money, and if there is a big lineup for the bus, it can save you some time. If you haven’t used Uber before, download the app and use my referral code, rds9f, to get $5 off your first ride!

Walking to the Moorish Castle

The third option is to walk. Walking from the train station to the Moorish Castle takes about 45 minutes, but if you’re keen on hiking, this is a great opportunity. There are maps of the hiking trails available at the tourist information centre. The best walk to take, which is the most direct, is the path via the Rampa do Castelo, which takes you through a shortcut directly up to the castle. I’ve added a map below to both the pathway to the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace since the free maps can sometimes be a little tough to follow, but the signage on the actual trails is quite good.

Hours & Admission

Since the Moorish Castle isn’t as insanely busy as Pena Palace, if you’re only visiting this one castle, you don’t need to worry too much about buying tickets in advance. Although buying them online in advance will save you 5% and also means it’s one less thing to do once you arrive. Tickets are valid for the entire year, so even if you buy them and plan on visiting one day, which gets rained out, you can easily change things around without being beholden to ticket dates and times.

You can also purchase them on your phone and show the e-ticket, no need to print out the physical document. If you can’t buy online in advance, there is a ticket booth at the entrance where you can buy them. Tickets for adults (18 – 64) cost 8€, youths (6 – 17) cost 6,5€ and seniors (over 65) are 6,5€. The castle is open from 9:30 am to 8 pm, with the last entry to the castle at 7 pm. The castle is open all year except December 25th and January 1st.

Why Visit?

Compared to sites like Pena Palace, the Sintra National Palace or the Quinta da Regaleira, the Moorish Castle might seem a little plain and uninteresting. There is no arguing that it is indeed the castle with the least amount of glitz, but what I found so impactful was the sheer depth of history you could feel within these walls. Pairing this place with the other castles was a stark contrast I appreciated, like a breath of fresh air. Some people skip this castle thinking it will be a little boring, but hiking along the ramparts was one of the most exciting parts of the day trip! I won’t miss it if you have the time!

Accessibility

Many people may not know when visiting this castle that the restoration project which took place to restore the castle was aimed at making it more accessible to people with mobility issues. In the depths of the forest, beside rocky cliff-sides and ancient ruins, you might be surprised to hear that there are special pathways all around the castle that visitors in wheelchairs can use. They have even made one of the castle’s wall lookouts accessible via a new wheelchair ramp to ensure all visitors get a glimpse across the countryside. I was so impressed when I researched this online and saw all the different accessibility ramps they can bring for those guests, even into a place built in the 9th century.

History of the Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is one of the oldest parts of Sintra. It was built in the 8th and 9th centuries by the Moors. “Moors” was a general term for the Muslim Moors from North Africa who came to Portugal. They brought with them their rich architectural histories, which generations would continue to be inspired by. This location was of mighty military power since it was located at a high vantage point above the town of Sintra, looking out over the River Tagus. From here, soldiers could keep guard against any incoming enemy ships. Sintra was a powerful township as the fields were full of fertile soil, and the farms around the hills were reliable producers of everything from grains to legumes.

King Alfonso VI

In 1093 a Christian crusade led by King Alfonso VI of Castile attempted to overtake the castle, but they were driven out by the overwhelming Moorish forces. But in 1147, the Christian forces of the Reconquista were finally powerful enough to take the castle from the Moors for the Christians. It was used for military defences during the 14th century, but eventually, it feels to ruins when it was no longer needed for security and more of the country’s power began to shift towards Lisbon as it was the city center.

Over the next few hundred years, it became almost completely abandoned. In the 15th century, when the Jews were expelled from Lisbon, they came here to live. But in 1636, a lightning storm caused a large fire which disseminated the castle, and a massive earthquake in 1755 levelled the remains of the battlements. Many thought that the castle would be lost to the ages as it sunk farther and farther into ruins.

Castle of the Moors

But when King Ferdinand II bought Pena Palace, he also took some interest in the Castle of the Moors. Ferdinand had a passion for history and took it upon himself to start preserving the remains of the castle and rebuilding the portions beyond repair. He loved looking at the stunning Moorish castle walls from his terrace, and when he visited the Moorish Castle, he could walk around the tower walls to the best view over his storybook castle found anywhere in Sintra. They both were like children to him, and the care (and financial aid) he sunk into these hilltop castles doesn’t go unnoticed even hundreds of years later.

Entrance to the Castle

While the entrance to the Moorish Castle, where you’ll find the ticket booth, is right off the side of the road, the journey towards the interior door is about a 15-minute walk from there, around the second ring of castle walls. You’ll stroll along a rolling pathway leading you around the castle’s exterior. Look up as you examine the old stone walls above the steep hillside around you. These secondary castle walls were built to protect the surrounding population and their animals and crops from invaders.

Granaries

Along the route toward the entrance, you can spot the excavated areas where a few large granaries were used to store cereals and legumes. These ingenious storage containers were brought to Portugal by the enterprising Moors.

Archaeological Tombs

Just outside the entrance, you’ll find an area where archaeological excavations were undertaken by King Ferdinand II. There, he found hundreds of bones buried under the soil. Today, there is a glass cover which reveals replicas of the skeletons which were discovered buried here. The King made a point to collect all the bones and inter them in a small tomb. The tomb is engraved with the symbol of a crescent and a cross and bears the following epitaph, “What man has joined only God will set apart.” In King Ferdinand’s time, this is because there was no way of telling if the bones were from the Christians or the Muslim inhabitants, and yet Ferdinand wanted to give them all a proper dedication.

Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim

In front of the main gates of the castle, you’ll find a small romantic-style chapel. This chapel, called Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim, was first built in the 12th century by King Afonso Henriques after the Christian invasion but was rebuilt by Ferdinand in a style he much preferred. The church now contains relics found on the site, some from the Neolithic area (5000 BC) and other important artifacts from the 10th-12th century Islamic cultures who lived here.

Stables

Upon entering through the Curtain Wall, to the left of the archway is the site of the old stables. A newly built stylized wooden structure is where you can find the Visitor Centre and get a map of the castle’s interior. It’s also where you can find the shop, washrooms and cafe. The cafe’s small terrace with a few patio tables is an excellent place to recharge if you hike all the way up to the castle or even if you need a short rest before walking up the castle walls.

Cisterns

Outside the stables, walk around and see if you can spot the two massive stone cisterns. These are covered in an iron grate in the shape of an Arabic star. These large vaulted cisterns were built in the 13th century, and the tanks held over 600 cubic meters of water. Access to clean water was the lifeblood of a secluded castle, and these water wells meant that the citizens could hold up inside the safety of the walls without ever having to go outside during war. The cisterns were so important that legend says that beneath them were the burial chambers of the Moorish kings. Take a peek down below to see if you spot any ghosts of King’s past.

Castle Walls

Take a closer look at the walls of the castle. See if you can make out the four distinct different layers of which they’re made up. Each one tells the story of the people who ruled over this structure. The first layer is made of granite blocks which rest on the bedrock over what was once an Islamic house and silos in the 12th century. The second phase was a reconstruction using ancient techniques made in the 12-13th century. The third phase was built in the 19th century when King Ferdinand took possession of the castle and helped with its restoration. The last stage was built in the 20th century when the castle became a tourist destination run by the government, and steps were taken to ensure its safety and strength for future generations.

Arms Square

The large open courtyard in the center of the castle is called the ‘Pracad de Armas‘ or Arms Square. This was where the military garrison would gather in the 13th century. When it was remodelled by King Ferdinand later in the 19th century, into a garden oasis. It was a space for contemplation and is still a beautiful area for people to sit and enjoy the view if they cannot manage the hike up the castle walls.

Door of Betrayal

In the centre of the Arms Square, you can spot a small wooden door, slightly hidden down half a level. Despite its ubiquitous appearance, this door has one of the darkest histories of the castle. It’s called the “Door of Betrayal” as the passageway provided discrete access to the castle’s exterior as a means of escape, or in another case, as a means to let the enemy inside the castle, hence the name; Door of Betrayal.

Wall Pathways

We visited on an especially windy day, and despite this, we walked the entire way to the top of the walls for a spectacular panorama across the countryside of Sintra. Walking up these walls, you feel like an explorer discovering ancient ruins. On a clear day, you can see across the Atlantic Ocean. We tried to spot all the locations we’d been to earlier in the day and were amazed at how far we’d walked!

Tower Keep

The first tower to visit along the walls of the castle is the Tower Keep. This was the stronghold where the local authorities would meet. It’s located at the highest point along the rampart and was where the guards had the best vantage points over the lands which needed protection.

From the Tower Keep, walk along the castle’s walls, making your way to the Royal Tower. This is where you’ll find the King’s favourite views over towards Pena Palace. You can still see flags flying high in the sky along the walls. One of the most significant flags is the green one, which has the word ‘Sintra’ written in Arabic as a dedication to the Moorish history of the palace.

Royal Tower

The Royal tower is the crowning glory of the castle. When you finally get to the top, the scenery is stupendous, perhaps made even more rewarding because of all the effort it takes to get there. You can stand holding the top flag pool and imagine yourself as one of the knights of the realm, looking out over the kingdom.

The walk down from the tower is much more leisurely, and although the landscape is the same going down as it was coming up, it seems different, almost like getting another angle on the entire vista. It’s incredible to observe the lush bushes, trees and flowers that sprout from within the rocks themselves. Things seem impossible to grow inside these rocks, yet these trees seem to be hundreds of years old. As old as the castle itself.

This brings us to the end of the tour; you can either make your way down to the bus stop, catch an uber, or hike the rest of the way back into town. I hope you enjoyed your time at the Moorish Castle; it was such a pleasant surprise when we visited, and well worth the effort climbing to the top! Let me know if the comment if you’ve ever travelled to Sintra and what your favourite castle you visited way!

Happy Travel Adventurers

The post The Best Self-Guided Tour of the Amazing Moorish Castle, Sintra’s Oldest World Heritage Site first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

If you’re anywhere close to Sintra in your travels through Portugal, don’t miss out on visiting this fantastic place. This guide can be used both in conjunction with my ‘Day Trip to Sintra Guide,’ or if you’re just interested in visiting this one castle, it’s a great in-depth walkthrough of all the different historical details and artistic aspects of the Palace and Gardens.

Table Of Contents

1. How to Get to Sintra
2. When to Visit Pena Palace
3. Access, Hours & Admission
4. History of Pena Palace
5. Arches Yard
6. Wall Walk
7. Interior of the Palace
8. Entry Doorway
9. Queen’s Terrace
10. Cafe and Restaurant
11. Gardens of Pena Park

How to Get to Sintra

Sintra is easily accessible from Lisbon by trains leaving from Rossio station. The trip requires no transfers and takes around 40 minutes. The round-trip journey costs just 4.50€, making it one of the most cost-efficient day trips. While trains are out to Sintra almost every 40 minutes, I highly recommend getting the train before 8 am. The train schedule changes slightly throughout the year, so I didn’t want to give you an exact time but leaving before 8 am means you’ll arrive before 9 am giving yourself plenty of time to get to your first destination with some time to spare before it opens.

Sintra seems to explode with tourist buses as the morning wears on, so early really pays off. Any chance of being tired is worth it for the experience of arriving at Pena Palace without having to wait in huge lines and fight the enormous crowds to see what’s around you. Also, have a metro card loaded with funds to tap on and off the train or buy your train tickets in advance. Even super early in the morning, there was a lineup at the ticket counter. We were happy to have our pre-loaded metro cards, which meant we could just tap right on them, ensuring we made it onto the train in time. It was surprising how critical those few minutes were in the outcome of our day.

When to Visit Pena Palace

Pena Palace is always busy. Yes, the winter will most likely be the least busy, but it’s also chilly and can be a bit grey. Since most of the things to see are outside, it’s not always the most comfortable time to explore. The height of the summer holidays is equally as miserable but instead because of the intense heat and crowds. Springtime is the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is reliably the best chance you’ll have to see a small reduction in groups. Avoid holidays when possible as these bring in the Portuguese tourists. As mentioned before the earlier in the morning you arrive, the better chance you’ll have at beating the bus tours, which are the most significant crowd control issue.

Access, Hours & Admission

There are two (well three) options for getting to the palace. The first is to take the public buses which are located right outside Sintra Station. The bus to take is #434, which services Pena Palace. This bus tends to have pretty big lines up at the train station stop since everyone getting on needs to purchase their day ticket, and that slows things down and bit. But once you have your pass, it’s super easy to jump on and off throughout the day. Tickets for this bus cost 5€ for a 24-hour pass.

Taking an Uber

The second option is jumping in an Uber. Ubers are a great way to get around Sintra but be warned that because some of the streets are one way, up a long and winding hill, some drivers might take a while to get to you or might cancel frequently. The Uber ride from the train station to Pena Palace is around 6€ depending on the time of day and the weather. If you’re travelling with 3 or 4 people, Uber can really save you some money, and if there is a big line up for the bus, it can save you some time as well. If you haven’t used Uber before, download the app and use my referral code rds9f to get $5 off your first ride!

Walking to the Castle

The third option is to walk. Walking from the train station to Pena Palace is a pretty long journey, but if you’re keen to do some hiking, this is a great opportunity. Just leave yourself some extra time to hike up to the castle and still arrive at the gates for 9:30 am.

While the entry gates are located just off the roadside, the palace itself is a fair bit uphill from the main entrance. There is a mini-bus which runs up to the top, but it costs 3€ and more than the money, the line you need to wait in to get onto the bus is a huge inconvenience. Although a little long, the walk up is actually quite enjoyable. If you have mobility issues, just take it slow and spend the extra time resting in between spurts admiring all the beautiful flora and fauna in the garden.

Admission Options

There are two options for Pena Palace admission. One is to tour the palace’s exterior and royal gardens. The other option will get you entry into the interior of the castle. If you are confident you’ll arrive early and are keen on seeing the rooms inside, go ahead and buy that ticket. But the lineup to get inside can get insanely long. They need to control the number of people who enter the buildings (something which isn’t monitored outside), so this often results in lengthy queues.

We were there as close to the opening as possible, and even we had to wait about 20 minutes to get inside. When we left, the line looked to be almost 2 hours long. While I thoroughly enjoyed touring the interior, there is no way it’s worth 2+ hours of waiting in line. If you think you can miss the interior, the gardens, and the exterior ticket is an excellent option since I think the best parts of the castle are the exterior anyway. It will save you a few euros and potentially a lot of time. If you did purchase a ticket for the interior tour but the lineup to get inside is gigantic, I would advise coming back right before closing when the crowds have cleared out.

Hours

Pena Palace is open all year round except December 25th and January 1st. During the Summer (March to October), the palace is open from 9:45 am until 7:00 pm (last entry 6:15), and the park is open from 9:30 am until 8:00 pm (last entry 7:00 pm). In the Winter (October to March), the palace & park are open from 10:00 am until 6:00 pm.

When to Visit Sintra

Sintra is always busy. Yes, the winter will most likely be the least busy, but it’s also chilly and can be a bit grey. Since most of the things to see are outside, it’s not always the most comfortable time to explore. The height of the summer holidays is equally as miserable but instead because of the intense heat and crowds. Springtime is the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is the best chance you’ll see a small group reduction.

Avoid holidays when possible, as these bring in Portuguese tourists. As mentioned before, the earlier in the morning you arrive, the better chance you’ll have at beating the bus tours, which are the most significant crowd control issue. Always the most comfortable time to explore.

How Much Time to Spend?

Pena Palace, although the most popular spot to visit in Sintra, doesn’t take too much time to tour. We spent about 2 hours inside the Palace proper and another hour touring the gardens. If you wanted to tour the entirety of the acres and acres the gardens are spread out across you could be here all day, but to visit the entirety of the Palace and a general tour of the gardens would take around 3 hours. This doesn’t include waiting in line, so if you come on a busy day when the line up to get inside the interior is hours long this will obviously add to your time spent there.

If you find the line for the interior is too long and you want to see a lot of the gardens, consider doing the gardens first and then returning to the interior later on in the day. Sometimes if a huge tour bus drops off a few busloads just waiting for those groups to disappear is a great plan to avoid having to wait in line with them.

Is it Really Worth Visiting?

Pena Palace, although the most popular spot to visit in Sintra, doesn’t take too much time to tour. We spent about 2 hours inside the Palace proper and another hour touring the gardens. If you wanted to tour the entire garden, which is spread out across acres and acres, you could be here all day, but to visit the whole of the palace and a comprehensive tour of the gardens would take around 3 hours. This doesn’t include waiting in line, so if you come on a busy day when the line up to get inside the interior is hours long, this will obviously add to your time spent here. If you find the line for the interior is too long and you want to see a lot of the gardens, consider doing the gardens first and then returning to the interior later on.

History of Pena Palace

The Hieronymite monastery was built in 1503 in honour of the Virgin Mary, who is said to have appeared at the top of the mountain in a vision. After falling to ruins over the years due to religious upheavals, King Ferdinand II, who had been in love with this spot since he was a child, decided to buy the buildings and the surrounding lands. Construction of the new royal estate began in 1838.

Ferdinand was obsessed with romanticism in art and architecture. He wanted his contemporary summer house to feel like something out of a storybook. Oddly enough, the palace’s construction was taken on by a mining engineer, Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege. Perhaps this was because the Prince and his wife wanted their full say in the castle’s design. Yet they needed Eschwege’s planning prowess to help them achieve the look of a castle sprung forth from the rocks. There really is no one style to be found here. Instead, it’s a patchwork quilt of influences and themes. Ferdinand wanted to include Medieval and Islamic elements and Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Manueline. The Manueline architecture was the most iconic style in Portugal at the time. It was the millennial pink of its time.

Architecture

There really is no one style to be found here. Instead, it’s a patchwork quilt of influences and themes. Ferdinand wanted to include Medieval and Islamic elements and Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Manueline. The Manueline architecture was the most iconic style in Portugal at the time. It was the millennial pink of its time.

After the death of Ferdinand, the castle was inherited by his second wife, Elise Hensler, who became Countess of Edla. The Countess, under pressure from the crown, sold the estate back to the royal family with the one condition that she could continue to live there until her death. King Carlos, next in line to the throne, was the last member of the royal family to live in the palace. After his assassination, his son, Manuel II, became the last King of Portugal and his wife, Queen Amélia, was the last person who stayed in the palace until the republican regime brought an end to the Portuguese crown.

Entrance to the Palace

While the entry gates are just off the roadside, the palace is a fair bit uphill from the main entrance. There is a mini-bus which runs up to the top, but it costs 3€ and more than the money, the line you need to wait in to get onto the bus is a huge inconvenience. Although a little long, the walk-up is actually quite enjoyable. If you have mobility issues, just take it slow and spend the extra time resting between spurts admiring all the beautiful flora and fauna in the garden.

At the top of the hill, the golden yellow walls, blue tile and red-painted exterior of the palace begin to emerge from the trees. Seeing this palace in real life is nothing like seeing the pictures. I really don’t think they can do it justice. Walking up those cobblestone steps makes you feel like you’re walking into a fantasy.

Door of Alhambra

The entryway into the castle is called the Door of Alhambra. It was inspired by the Alhambra Door of Justice in Granada, Spain. The doorway is covered in brightly painted tiles and decorated with various elegant leaves. Ferdinand wanted this gateway to be where his visitors left the real world behind and stepped into his dream world.

The Coach Yard

Open passing through the archway, we step into the ‘Coach Yard.’ This was as far as horses and carriages could come, and guests would make their way to the palace on foot. Standing here, we can look up at the ‘Monumental Gateway.’ The gateway’s design is a blend of architectural elements found all over Lisbon and which the Prince wanted to see incorporated into his palace.

The facade is covered in diamond-shaped stones, referencing the Casa dos Bicos in Alfama. On either side of the top of the gateway, we have arched domes, completed with rope-like decoration; the same was on the famed Tower of Belem. The exterior is finished in a series of round balls reminiscent of the Cunhal das Bolas in Barrio Alto. In the centre of the arch, on the very top, is a pair of crossed swords atop a knight’s helmet, with a plume of lush feathers springing out of the top.

Upper Courtyard

Step through the archway and make your way around the swirling passageway to the upper courtyard. It’s here you’ll finally have the chance to study the tiles which make up the exterior hue of this building. Tiles, or Azulejos as they are called in Portuguese, have a strong history in Portugal, dating back to the 13th century. The Moors brought them here, who invaded much of Spain and Portugal in the 1200s. The word azulejo in Arabic means “small polished stone.” In Islam, they believed in aniconism, the avoidance of images of sentient beings in art. As such, geometric shapes became the most popular form of decor. As such, most of the tiles brought with them from Islam continue this tradition. The geometric and natural forms are striking, and their colours haven’t faded significantly over the years.

The Triton Portico

The Triton Portico is one of the most impressive elements of Pena Palace. Triton is meant to serve as an allegorical of the world’s creation. The facade is divided into two factions, the aquatic world below and the terrestrial world above. They are separated by Triton, a monster half man and half fish but a part of both worlds. Bits of corals surround Triton’s feet; above him, you can see the carved grape vines and leaves blossoming wildly. The Portuguese were a seafaring nation, and aquatic symbolism was always an important aspect of their artistic culture.

Azulejos

Tiles, or Azulejos as they are called in Portuguese, date back to the 13th century. They were brought here by the Moors who invaded much of Spain and Portugal in the 1200s. The word azulejo in Arabic means “small polished stone”.

In Islam, they believed in aniconism, which is the avoidance of images of sentient beings in art. As such, geometric shapes became the most popular form of decor and as such, most of the tiles brought with them from Islam continue this tradition.

Arches Yard

Walk underneath Triton’s arch out to the Arches Yard. The small passageway is where you’ll find the restrooms which are also covered in traditional tile work. The Arches Yard is framed by a wall of graceful, golden arches done up in Moorish style. The arches create a window onto the village of Sintra and across the countryside below.

There is nothing to compare this view to, it seems to go on and on forever on a clear day. From atop this peak, you can spy on all the wealthy estates below, one of which is actually owned by Madonna, the Queen of pop herself! Sintra truly is still to this day where the rich and famous come to escape the city and to live in some of the most lavish properties found anywhere in the world.

Convent of the Order of Christ

Take the chance to turn your eyes away from the incredible view, and look across towards one of the incredibly ornate windows on the main facade. This piece was directly inspired by the chapter house window in the Convent of the Order of Christ in Tomar. The window is surrounded in alchemical symbols, some of which seem to have a mystical aura. Much of Sintra’s more obscure lore lies in its prominence as a Masonic hub. The Convent of the Order of Christ was a 12th-century stronghold for the Knights Templar. Once its order was disbanded, it is said that the Masonic Temple was formed to continue its mission. It is rumoured that King Ferdinand was himself a grand master of the Masonic Order and as such, influenced much of Sintra’s history as a Masonic centre of power.

Chapel

Standing guard over the Arches Yard is the sizeable red clock tower atop the old monastery chapel. The steeple of the chapel is embellished with white and emerald green tiles which beautifully contrast the red and yellow walls and the blue (or grey in our case) sky.

The chapel remains unchanged from its 16th-century design. 22 monks would come to pray here during their time at the monastery. The walls are entirely covered in green and white polychrome tiles which still shine inside the darkened chapel. In a small alcove is the ornate alabaster and black marble altar made by Nicolau de Chanterene in 1532. The expressions which he managed to carve out of the solid marble defy earthly conventions making it feel all the more holy.

Remnants of the Monastery

Opposite the altar is one of the few remaining original stained glass windows from the monastery. The coloured used within this design are so striking, and it’s hard to believe this piece is a few hundred years old. I loved how quiet it was inside the church, it seemed most people skipped it as they were in a rush in those group tours, but I was glad to have stopped inside as it was a wonderful moment to pause and reflect on the beauty all around me.

Wall Walk

Just down the stairs from the chapel is the Wall Walk, a small passage which leads you around the back of the palace. While the narrow walkway looks over a steep hillside, the brave will be rewarded with one of the most unbelievable views across Sintra.

Standing on this side of the palace, you can see the Moorish Castle on the other side of the forest. It seems so far away, and yet the entrance to the Moorish Castle is just on the other side of Pena Park.

Interior of the Palace

If you bought a ticket to enter the interior, make your way inside. This part of the tour often gets very crowded, and the line can get long, so best to do it as soon as you enter when the line is bound to be shorter or if it seems rather long, skip it and make your way towards the gardens, with the intention to return here later in the day. The palace is made up of two separate wings. They are distinguishable by their paint colours. Ochre for the new wing and burnt red for the old monastic side.

Entry Doorway

A stunningly embellished door, surrounded in carved florals now serves as the way in for visitors to the palace. This was the entrance formerly used by the Royal Family, providing access to the palace’s most private areas. This building was once the Hieronymite monastery, and although the spaces were converted from simple rooms for prayer into luxurious royal residences, the bones of the original structure remain the same.

The Hieronymite Convent Cloister

As you enter, you’ll step right into the cloisters. Look up and see how the open-air hallways continue on both floors of the palace. The entirety of this place is covered in azulejos, and ghastly faces stare down at you, carved in the gargoyles above. The centre of the cloister has a giant carving of a shell in the centre which is held up by four little turtles. The open shell represents a womb, as this little scene is an allegory for the vegetal world giving birth to the aquatic underworld. Like the wealthy Portuguese Kings who, with their finances, gave birth to the world’s best seafaring explorers.

Scullery

The scullery is the first room you’ll enter from the outside cloister. In large, dark wood cabinets along the walls are porcelain and crystal flatware from the Royal collection. Set up on one table just to the right of the entry door is a sample of what their tea sets would look like. Tiny, little cups and plates in the shape of seashells are ready for a hot pot of tea and finger sandwiches.

Dining Room

One of the most impressive rooms you’ll see on the first floor is the dining room. The dining room has the most remarkable ceilings made of intricate ribbed vaults and lined in tiles. The table is set like they’re still awaiting their visitors. Each piece of furniture was made for this exact space, the images of Portuguese animals of the forest carved into the backs of the chairs. The rainbow coloured glassware still catching the light white pours through the windows. Even from the other side of the room, you can see how truly amazing the view from the interior really is.

King Carlos’ Bedrooms

After the death of King Ferdinand II, the palace passed hands several times but eventually became the residences of King Carlos and his wife Dona Améli in 1890. The bedrooms and apartments on the lower floors belonged to King Carlos. These apartments were initially the former Chapter House of the Manueline monastery. They were used by King Ferdinand II as his servants quarters, but King Carlos actually preferred this more modest setting and left the upper more elaborate apartments for his wife. King Carlos’ bedroom is decorated in dark wood, with bright green accents. The Empire style was an early-nineteenth-century design movement which was inspired by Neoclassicism and Romanticism, and each piece of furniture in this room was designed within that style. On the walls, there are splendidly painted emotional landscapes, and throughout the room, classical sculptures of attractive women of mythology make almost any spectator blush.

King Carlos’ Studio

The reverie continues into King Carlos’ studio. Here we find a mural painted across the entire room of nymphs and satyrs playing in the Park of Pena. This painting is believed to have been painted by the King himself, who was obsessed with filling his private quarters in these fantastical scenes.

King Carlos’ Bathroom

Pena Palace was one of the first royal residences to have sanitation facilities specifically designed for personal hygiene. Despite being a bathroom, the room is nevertheless filled with decorative garnishes. The bathrooms are filled with luxurious furniture and lined top to bottom in the most exceptional tile work.

The Interior Niche

A small corner niche which you’ll see before going upstairs contains one of the oldest treasures of the former Monastery. This little niche features a mosaic wall decorated with shells, stones and porcelain pieces. Since it was transformed into a simple storeroom, there was no need to remove the old decor to make way for more modern decorations therein preserving its history for the modern era.

Bedroom of the Queen’s Secretary and Ladies-in-Waiting

Next, we head upstairs to find Queen Amélia’s apartments. The first room we enter is the bedroom of the Queen’s ladies in waiting. Initially, when King Ferdinand II lived here with Countess of Edla, this room was a small dressing room, but when Queen Amélia moved in, she required more space for her servants and noblewomen. One of the most beautiful objects in the room is the Indo-Portuguese rosewood bed, carved to perfection like the wood was made from butter. Above the bed are plastered a knotted row of branches which blossom with hundreds of pine cones so lifelike you’ll think they might fall down upon your head.

The Queen’s Withdrawing Room

The yellow room adjacent is the Queen’s Withdrawing Room. It features a stunning bunting of plaster roses which hang from the crown moulding. Rose motifs are etched into almost every inch of the vaulted ceiling. More proof of Ferdinand’s obsession with romanticism and bringing nature into the interior of the home.

Queen’s Bedroom

The most opulent of all the rooms in the Queen’s bedroom. Moorish decorations cover the walls and ceiling in a way that literally makes your jaw drop. Geometric patterns repeat on the roof and spread out onto all the walls below. The designs are centred around bright gold stars covered in sumptuous gold leaf. The dark wooden bed is given a baroque treatment with swirling bedposts and a headboard which surges and swells like the waves.

Study of Queen Amélia

Outside the bedroom, you’ll find the study of Queen Amelia. Originally this was the music room, a room which acted very similarly to a modern day living room. This was where the family would listen to various musicians play traditional Portuguese instruments. Eventually, the room was transformed into the Queen’s study. Today, it is used to display silverware, weaponry and even the desks and stationary of Queen Amélia. The room’s wallpaper is made to look like carved stoned with faux azulejos in green and white accents.

Green Room

The green room provides another brilliant example of Trompe-l’ œil. Here the wallpaper is made to replicated flowers and branches as well as traditional architectural carvings. Although some of the paint is peeling, I love how this part was left unrestored as it makes the building feel more authentic and shows its real age!

Arab Reception Room

Past the royal chambers, we find the Arab Reception room. Looking at this room from afar you might be fooled into thinking the walls open up to the exterior and the ceiling is fantastically carved. But in fact, these are all optical illusions. This technique is called ‘Trompe-l’ œil’ which is French for “to deceive the eye”. Objects which exist in three dimensions are here created in a two dimensional forced perspective with nothing else but paint. The paintings were made in 1854 by esteemed Italian scenographer Paolo Pizzi. This technique was employed to make otherwise small spaces to make them feel grandiose to the guests who would be received for the first time in this room.

The Galleries

The next few rooms were once used as the abbot’s suite when the building was a monastery. These now contain different trinkets, treasures and works of art which belonged to King Ferdinand II. This part of the tour felt so special since you were looking at all these personal items which help you understand the personality of the man who once owned this castle. The little things which make a house, a home.

Smoking Room

In the smoking room, we find a vast Islamic dome covered in Mudejar art. A stunning neo-rococo chandelier hangs from the ceiling, covered in Venetian glass in the shape of ivy climbing all over the wrought iron frame. The candles site inside morning glory flowers, also made from that fantastical Venetian glass. The white walls are covered intricate textures which were created to replicate the look of traditional Indian lacework. This was my favourite room, it felt both immensely regal, which also being restrained and demure.

Queen’s Terrace

The Queen had access to one of the most astonishing parts of the castle, the south facing terrace. From here she could look out over the majestic Sintra countryside and the castle’s exceptional architecture. During the reign of King Carlos and Queen Amélia, there was a large metal structure erected on the terrace so the king and queen could entertain their guests outdoors during the summer. In the centre of the terrace are a large sundial and solar quadrant which once fired a small cannon throughout the day to announce the presence of the royal family or visiting dignitaries.

Noble Hall

Upstairs, Noble Hall is one of the most impressive spaces in the palace. Compared to the relatively small sized bedrooms, this receptions hall was where the King took advantage of space. It was here where large parties were thrown, and the who’s who of Lisbon’s high society would come during the summer.

The Noble Hall was inspired by the Ottoman Court. Iron replicas of Turkish kings are located on either end of the room, in their hands, they hold huge golden torches. Rich, red leather sofas on either side of the hall were designed with mirrored canopies behind them to make the room appear much larger than it is in reality. It was also an excellent way for the elite to spy on those around them and see just who is sharing secrets with who.

Stag Hall

One of the last rooms you’ll see is the Stag Hall. Originally it was supposed to be the banqueting hall, but construction was halted, and it never came to be. The central column, designed to looks like a giant tree trunk, was going to be the enormous round table which guest would eat around like knights of stories past. On all the walls there would have been antique weapons on display, and each of the windows would have contained pieces of archaic stained-glass themed with heraldic motifs. Since this new part of the castle was never finished, it remains somewhat unfinished looking with only stuffed deer trophies decorating the plain white walls and glass display cases featuring the pieces of stained glass planned for the windows.

Kitchen

The last room you’ll see is the old kitchen, a real hit with chefs and foodies. In here are all the original kitchen utensils, pots and pans and other old-fashioned culinary tools found in this old Portuguese kitchen. The kitchen felt enormous compared to the rather small interior rooms, but it must have taken an army to feed the great parties which were no doubt held here. The new kitchen was designed to be close to the Stag Hall since it was meant to be the main dining area, but unfortunately for the poor chefs, this never came to be.

Cafe and Restaurant

After touring the castle, the cafe located on the terrace is a great spot to grab lunch. Although the restaurant here is rather expensive, the cafe is surprising cheap with a selection of delicious Portuguese pastries, sandwiches and more. If you brought your lunch, this is also an excellent opportunity to break out the picnic. While there might be better places to eat in town, it would take ages to get there and back so instead, enjoy the regal atmosphere around and soak in the view.

Gardens of Pena Park

After finishing up at the palace, it’s now time to explore the gardens of Pena. The map they give you when you enter is really confusing, so its best to just keep that adventuring spirit in front of your mind and just wander the park. Don’t worry about getting lost, you’ll eventually stumble upon some signage, which always helped us get back on the right track. The gardens cover over 85 hectares of land around the castle. If you love hiking, you should definitely try to come out here and explore the entirety of the park. This could take you all day and is certainly not for those in a rush, but if you have the time to space, there are so many amazing things to discover.

Cruz Alta

You can hike to the very top of the gardens to find the Cruz Alta, located 529 metres above sea level. This stone cross is situated at the highest point of the Sintra hills. The cross is made of intertwined branches and created to mark to the where the explorer D. Joao III claimed this land for Portugal. Another famous landmark is the Statue of the Warrior. This stunning granite sculpture made in 1848 by Ernesto Rusconi is of a non-descript knight who represented all those idealized, romantic notions in which the parks and palace sought to embody.

Compared to the hundreds of people at the palace, these winding pathways around the gardens felt like your own private area. We were often the only ones there, and in spite of the confusing map, we had a blast exploring and getting lost all along the way. Ferdinand wanted these gardens to feel like wandering through a romantic forest where you wouldn’t be surprised to come upon nymphs drinking spring water from the fountains or unicorns grazing on fern trees.

Greenhouse

The Hot House, or greenhouse, can be found just past the Camellia Gardens. The greenhouses’ importance is notable by the fact that it is surrounded by large stone walls which aim to protect and highlight this spot. The greenhouse was equipped with its own plumbing system, and you can find the old furnace outside which was used to heat the greenhouse throughout the year. This was used to keep those precious flowers which needed warmth, safe throughout the colder winters. Having this greenhouse meant that Ferdinand could grow many different impressive flowers and trees, which otherwise would have been impossible to flourish outside of their natural environment. One more example of how this palace made the impossible possible.

Throughout the garden, you’ll spot everything from magnolias, Japanese Cryptomeria, Chinese ginko, American sequoia, cypress, red cedar, as well as tree ferns from New Zeland and Australia. No matter what time of year you come, there is almost always something flowering.

Islamic-style domed pavilion

In the lower portion of the gardens, you might be surprised to find an Islamic-style domed pavilion. Around the edge of the dome, written in Arabic are the words “The Sultan D. Manuel built this chapel blessed in the name of Our Lady Mary of Pena, in the year 1503, in celebration of the safe return of Dom Vasco da Gama’s discovery of the lands and countries which he found…” The King was never a Sultan, but it’s just one more way that we can see how Ferdinand really loved a fairytale story, even about himself.

Further down, closer to the roadside entrance to the park, you’ll find the Grotto of the Monk. This was once a modest medieval garden where the Hieronymite monks would come to retreat the monastery and meditate in the peace and quiet of the forest.

Duck Houses

One of the last things in the park to explore before you exit are the Duck Houses. These stone towers look more like minature forts, but when you look closer at their tiny doors, you might catch a glimpse of a family of ducks making their way home. These were such a delight to Ferdinand’s guests, as everyone got a good laugh out of these ducks with their very own castle, within in a castle.

The duck houses mark the end of the tour. They are located at the official entrance to Pena Park. If you’re continuing on from here, it’s a short 10-minute walk over to the Moorish Castle, or you can hop on bus #434 to get back to Sintra station. While many people make Pena Palace a part of their day trip to Sintra, if you choose to explore the entirety of the park and spend some quality time inside the palace, you can easily dedicate an entire day to this wonderland. I hope that either way, you decide to visit this incredible site. I hope that you have a great time exploring all these secrets I’ve uncovered for you and that you share with me any new ones you discover!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of Pena Palace, Sintra first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Sintra Castles Itinerary

This itinerary features all the great sights, some time to relax, the best ways to avoid the crowds (as much as possible) and have fun exploring along the way! The itinerary takes us first to Pena Palace, then through the lush palace gardens, which lead us up to the ruins of the medieval Moorish castle. After touring these ancient stone walls, we head to the “millionaires manor,” the Quinta da Regaleira. Once thoroughly mindblown by these fantastical castles, it’s time to wander through the old town of Sintra, where we’ll stop for dinner and dessert before heading back to Lisbon. The blog post is broken up into each section of the itinerary, so if you want to skip to a specific portion, there are links below.

Table Of Contents

1. How to Get to Sintra
2. Tickets
3. When to Visit Sintra
4. Hours
5. Arrival in Sintra
6. Pena Palace
7. Gardens of Pena Park
8. Moorish Castle
9. Quinta da Regaleira
10. Interior of the Palace
11. Village of Sintra
12. Dinner & Dessert

How to Get to Sintra

Sintra is easily accessible from Lisbon by trains leaving from Rossio station. The trip requires no transfers and takes around 40 minutes. The round-trip journey costs just 4.50€, making it one of the most cost-efficient day trips. While trains are out to Sintra almost every 40 minutes, I highly recommend getting the train before 8 am. The train schedule changes slightly throughout the year, so I didn’t want to give you an exact time but leaving before 8 am means you’ll arrive before 9 am giving yourself plenty of time to get to your first destination with some time to spare before it opens.

Sintra seems to explode with tourist buses as the morning wears on, so early really pays off. Any chance of being tired is worth it for the experience of arriving at Pena Palace without having to wait in huge lines and fight the enormous crowds to see what’s around you. Also, have a metro card loaded with funds to tap on and off the train or buy your train tickets in advance. Even super early in the morning, there was a lineup at the ticket counter. We were happy to have our pre-loaded metro cards, which meant we could just tap right on them, ensuring we made it onto the train in time. It was surprising how critical those few minutes were in the outcome of our day.

Tickets

Purchasing your tickets in advance for Pena Palace and the Moorish castle is recommended. Adult tickets to Pena Palace are 14,00€ for exterior and interior tours or 7.50€ for the park and exterior of the palace only. The Moorish Castle costs 7.60€, but you’ll save 5% when you buy online. By taking care of this step in advance, you’ll save on time upon arrival and booking online also gets you 5% off!

Tickets are valid for the entire year, so even if you buy them and plan on visiting one day, which gets rained out, you can easily change things around without being beholden to ticket dates and times. You can also purchase them on your phone and show the e-ticket, no need to print out the physical document. The Quinta da Regaleira ticket line is significantly less busy, and you can buy those tickets at the gate. Since it’s the last destination of the day, it’s nice to leave it as an option in case you’re too tired or decide to spend more time elsewhere. Tickets into Quinta da Regaleira costs 8€.

Admission Options for Pena Palace

There are two options for Pena Palace admission. One is to tour the palace’s exterior and royal gardens. The other option will get you entry into the interior of the castle. If you are confident you’ll arrive early and are keen on seeing the rooms inside, go ahead and buy that ticket. But the lineup to get inside can get insanely long. They need to control the number of people who enter the buildings (something which isn’t monitored outside), so this often results in lengthy queues.

We were there as close to the opening as possible, and even we had to wait about 20 minutes to get inside. When we left, the line looked to be almost 2 hours long. While I thoroughly enjoyed touring the interior, there is no way it’s worth 2+ hours of waiting in line. If you think you can miss the interior, the gardens, and the exterior ticket is an excellent option since I think the best parts of the castle are the exterior anyway. It will save you a few euros and potentially a lot of time. If you did purchase a ticket for the interior tour but the lineup to get inside is gigantic, I would advise coming back right before closing when the crowds have cleared out.

When to Visit Sintra

Sintra is always busy. Yes, the winter will most likely be the least busy, but it’s also chilly and can be a bit grey. Since most of the things to see are outside, it’s not always the most comfortable time to explore. The height of the summer holidays is equally as miserable but instead because of the intense heat and crowds. Springtime is the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is the best chance you’ll see a small group reduction.

Avoid holidays when possible, as these bring in Portuguese tourists. As mentioned before, the earlier in the morning you arrive, the better chance you’ll have at beating the bus tours, which are the most significant crowd control issue. Always the most comfortable time to explore.

Hours

Pena Palace

Pena Palace is open all year round except December 25th and January 1st. During the Summer (March to October), the palace is open from 9:45 am until 7:00 pm (last entry 6:15), and the park is open from 9:30 am until 8:00 pm (last entry 7:00 pm). In the Winter (October to March), the palace & park are open from 10:00 am until 6:00 pm.

Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is open all year round except December 25th and January 1st. Last entry 1 hour before closing time. In the Summer (March to October), the hours are 9:30 am until 8:00 pm, and in the Winter (October to March), the hours are 10:00 am until 6:00pm.

Quinta da Regaleira

Quinta da Regaleira is open all year round except for December 24th and 25th, and January 1st. On December 31st, the opening hours are limited. During the Summer (April to September), the hours are 9:30 am to 7:00 pm, and in the Winter (October to March), they are 9:30 am to 6:00 pm.

Arrival in Sintra

There are two (well, three) options for getting around in Sintra. The first is to take the public buses, primarily bus #434, which services most of the tourist attractions you’ll be visiting in Sintra. This bus tends to have big lines up at the train stop since everyone getting on needs to purchase their day ticket, which slows things down. But once you have your pass, it’s super easy to jump on and off throughout the day. Tickets for this bus cost 5€ for a 24-hour pass.

Ubering to the Palace

The second option is jumping in an Uber. Ubers are a great way to get around Sintra but be warned that because some of the streets are one-way, up a long and winding hill, some drivers might take a while to get to you or might cancel frequently. The Uber ride from the train station to Pena Palace is around 6€ depending on the time of day and the weather. If you’re travelling with 3 or 4 people, Ubers can save you money compared to the bus pass. You don’t need to use transportation more than twice in this itinerary. If you haven’t used Uber before, download the app and use my referral code, rds9f, to get $5 off your first ride!

Walking Option

The third option is to walk. Walking from the train station to Pena Palace is a long journey, but if you’re keen on hiking, this is a great opportunity. Just leave yourself some extra time to hike up to the castle and still arrive at the gates at 9:30 am. Walking to and from the other points in our tour is a great way to save time and see some beautiful things along the way. While some of this tour will be on foot, it’s been tested with people of all fitness levels and ages, so there is no need to worry. If you feel like you need to take a break, remember that taking a seat, literally anywhere in Sintra, will always result in one of the most spectacular views you can get anywhere in the world.

Pena Palace

Pena Palace opens at 9:30 am. Even before this, the crowds lined up outside the gates to get inside this magnificent dwelling. Looking at this sumptuous and over-the-top architectural masterpiece, it’s hard to imagine that this site was once where a very modest monastery once stood.

History of Pena Palace

The Hieronymite monastery was built in 1503 in honour of the Virgin Mary, who is said to have appeared at the top of the mountain in a vision. After falling to ruins over the years due to religious upheavals, King Ferdinand II, who had been in love with this spot since he was a child, decided to buy the buildings and the surrounding lands. Construction of the new royal estate began in 1838.

Ferdinand was obsessed with romanticism in art and architecture. He wanted his contemporary summer house to feel like something out of a storybook. Oddly enough, the palace’s construction was taken on by a mining engineer, Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege. Perhaps this was because the Prince and his wife wanted their full say in the castle’s design. Yet they needed Eschwege’s planning prowess to help them achieve the look of a castle sprung forth from the rocks. There really is no one style to be found here. Instead, it’s a patchwork quilt of influences and themes. Ferdinand wanted to include Medieval and Islamic elements and Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Manueline. The Manueline architecture was the most iconic style in Portugal at the time. It was the millennial pink of its time.

Entrance to the Palace

While the entry gates are just off the roadside, the palace is a fair bit uphill from the main entrance. There is a mini-bus which runs up to the top, but it costs 3€ and more than the money, the line you need to wait in to get onto the bus is a huge inconvenience. Although a little long, the walk-up is actually quite enjoyable. If you have mobility issues, just take it slow and spend the extra time resting between spurts admiring all the beautiful flora and fauna in the garden.

At the top of the hill, the golden yellow walls, blue tile and red-painted exterior of the palace begin to emerge from the trees. Seeing this palace in real life is nothing like seeing the pictures. I really don’t think they can do it justice. Walking up those cobblestone steps makes you feel like you’re walking into a fantasy.

Door of Alhambra

The entryway into the castle is called the Door of Alhambra. It was inspired by the Alhambra Door of Justice in Granada, Spain. The doorway is covered in brightly painted tiles and decorated with various elegant leaves. Ferdinand wanted this gateway to be where his visitors left the real world behind and stepped into his dream world.

Open passing through the archway, we step into the ‘Coach Yard.’ This was as far as horses and carriages could come, and guests would make their way to the palace on foot. Standing here, we can look up at the ‘Monumental Gateway.’ The gateway’s design is a blend of architectural elements found all over Lisbon and which the Prince wanted to see incorporated into his palace.

The facade is covered in diamond-shaped stones, referencing the Casa dos Bicos in Alfama. On either side of the top of the gateway, we have arched domes, completed with rope-like decoration; the same was on the famed Tower of Belem. The exterior is finished in a series of round balls reminiscent of the Cunhal das Bolas in Barrio Alto. In the centre of the arch, on the very top, is a pair of crossed swords atop a knight’s helmet, with a plume of lush feathers springing out of the top.

Upper Courtyard

Step through the archway and make your way around the swirling passageway to the upper courtyard. It’s here you’ll finally have the chance to study the tiles which make up the exterior hue of this building. Tiles, or Azulejos as they are called in Portuguese, have a strong history in Portugal, dating back to the 13th century. The Moors brought them here, who invaded much of Spain and Portugal in the 1200s. The word azulejo in Arabic means “small polished stone.” In Islam, they believed in aniconism, the avoidance of images of sentient beings in art. As such, geometric shapes became the most popular form of decor. As such, most of the tiles brought with them from Islam continue this tradition. The geometric and natural forms are striking, and their colours haven’t faded significantly over the years.

The Triton Portico

The Triton Portico is one of the most impressive elements of Pena Palace. Triton is meant to serve as an allegorical of the world’s creation. The facade is divided into two factions, the aquatic world below and the terrestrial world above. They are separated by Triton, a monster half man and half fish but a part of both worlds. Bits of corals surround Triton’s feet; above him, you can see the carved grape vines and leaves blossoming wildly. The Portuguese were a seafaring nation, and aquatic symbolism was always an important aspect of their artistic culture.

Interior Tour of Pena Palace

After studying the first courtyard, you can visit the interior if you buy a ticket. This part of the tour often gets very crowded, and the line can get long, so best to do it right away when the line is shorter. The palace’s interiors are located inside the old Hieronymite convent. As such, the layout follows the design of the former convent exactly. As you enter, you’ll step right into the open cloisters. Look up and see how the open-air hallways continue on both palace floors. This place is covered in azulejos, and ghastly faces stare down at you, carved in the gargoyles above.

Dining Room

The dining room is one of the most impressive rooms on the first floor. The dining room has the most remarkable ceilings made of intricate ribbed vaults and lined with tiles. The table is set like they’re still awaiting their visitors. Each piece of furniture was made for this exact space, the images of Portuguese animals of the forest carved into the backs of the chairs.

Plaster and paint were used to create illusions throughout the interior. This technique is called ‘Trompe-l’ œil,’ French for “to deceive the eye.” Objects in three dimensions are here created in a two-dimensional forced perspective. In King Carlos’ studio, we find a painting of Nymphs and Satyrs playing in the Park of Pena, which is believed to have been painted by the King himself.

Interior Ornamentation

Stucco was used to decorate the ceilings of the interior, some designed in the shapes of pine cones, leaves and branches. In other rooms, we find the ceilings patterned with Islamic designs in the stucco. Walking from room to room, you feel like you’re entering another world.

One of my favourite parts of touring the interior was all the personal touches, decorations, knickknacks and treasures. The little things which make a house, a home. They were those fascinating treasures that made the castle feel like someone really lived there.

Noble Hall

Upstairs, the Noble Hall is one of the most impressive spaces. Compared to the relatively small sizes of the bedrooms, this reception hall was where the King took advantage of space. It was here where large parties were thrown, and the who’s who of Lisbon’s high society would come during the summer. The Noble Hall was inspired by the Ottoman Court. Iron replicas of Turkish kings are on either end of the room; they hold huge golden torches. Comfortable red leather sofas on either side of the hall were designed with mirrored canopied behind them to make the room appear much larger. It was also an excellent way for the elite to spy on those around them!

Kitchen

The last room you’ll see is the old kitchen, a real hit with chefs and foodies. Here are all the original kitchen utensils, pots and pans and other antique items found in the antiquated Portuguese kitchens. The kitchen felt enormous when the rooms were all rather small, but it must have taken an army to feed the tremendous parties which were no doubt held here.

Arches Yard

After exiting the interior, you have the chance to now tour the opposite side of the outside of the palace. Walk underneath Triton’s arch out to the Arches Yard. This is where you’ll find the beautiful golden-yellow Moorish arches, which create a window onto the village of Sintra and across the countryside below.

There is nothing to compare this view to; it seems to go on and on forever on a clear day. From atop this peak, you can spy on all the rich estates below, one of which is actually owned by Madonna, the queen of pop herself! Sintra is still where the rich and famous come to escape the city and live in some of the most lavish properties in the world.

Convent of the Order of Christ

Take the chance to turn your eyes away from the incredible view and look toward one of the ornate windows on the main facade. This piece was inspired by the chapter house window in the Convent of the Order of Christ in Tomar. The window is surrounded by alchemical symbols, some of which seem to have a mystical aura. Much of Sintra’s more obscure lore lies in its prominence as a Masonic hub. The Convent of the Order of Christ was a 12th-century stronghold for the Knights Templar. Once its order was disbanded, it is said that the Masonic Temple was formed to continue its mission. It is rumoured that King Ferdinand was himself a grand master of the Masonic Order and, as such, influenced much of Sintra’s history as a Masonic centre of power.

Standing guard over the Arches Yard is the sizeable red clock tower atop the old monastery chapel. The chapel’s steeple is embellished with white and emerald green tiles, which beautifully contrast the red and yellow walls and the blue (or grey, in our case) sky.

Chapel

The chapel remains unchanged from its 16th-century design. 22 monks would come to pray here during their time at the monastery. The walls are entirely covered in green and white polychrome tiles, which still shine inside the darkened chapel. In a small alcove are the ornate alabaster and black marble altar made by Nicolau de Chanterene in 1532. The expressions he managed to carve out of the solid marble defy earthly conventions making it feel all the more holy.

Opposite the altar is one of the few remaining original stained glass windows from the monastery. The coloured used within this design is so striking, and it’s hard to believe this piece is a few hundred years old. I loved how quiet it was inside the church; most people skipped it as they rushed in those group tours. But I was glad to have stopped inside as it was a wonderful moment to pause and reflect on the beauty around me.

Wall Walk

The Wall Walk is just down the stairs from the chapel, a small passage leading you around the back of the palace. While the narrow walkway looks over a steep hillside, the brave will be rewarded with one of the most incredible views across Sintra. Standing on this side of the palace, you can see the Moorish Castle on the other side of the forest.

After touring the castle, the cafe on the terrace is a great spot to grab lunch. Although the restaurant here is rather expensive, the cafe is surprisingly cheap, with a selection of delicious Portuguese pastries, sandwiches and more. If you brought your lunch, this is also a good opportunity to break out the picnic. While there might be better places to eat in town, it would take ages to get there and back, so instead, enjoy the great atmosphere around you while enjoying a simple lunch.

Gardens of Pena Park

Follow the map at the bottom of this post to find the pathway through the Gardens of Pena Park, which will take us toward the Moorish Castle. The map they give you when you enter is really confusing, and honestly, as long you’re headed down, you’re probably on the right path. Just keep your eyes open for signs of Moorish Castle. The Gardens of Pena Park have dozens of hidden secrets you’ll stumble upon. Stone couches, glass-walled greenhouses, tiny Islamic gazebos, and dozens of flowers. Compared to the hundreds of people at the palace, these pathways around the gardens feel empty. We were often the only ones there, and despite the confusing map, we had a blast exploring and getting lost all along the way.

The gardens cover over 200 hectares of land around the castle. If you love hiking, you should definitely try to come out here and explore the entirety of the park. This could take you all day and is certainly not for those in a rush, but if you have the time to space, there are many amazing things to discover. We only saw a tiny part of the gardens, but even that was absolutely incredible.

Variety of Flora and Fauna

King Ferdinand wanted this garden to not only exemplify the beauty of Portugal but also plants and flowers from all over the world. You’ll spot everything from Magnolias, Japanese Cryptomeria, Chinese Ginko, American Sequoia, Cypress, Red Cedar, and tree ferns from New Zealand and Australia.

No matter what time of year you come, something is almost always blooming. Finding your way toward the exit can be challenging since the park was designed as a labyrinth. But as long as you’re headed toward the Pena Garden entrance, you’re on the right track!

Moorish Castle

Upon exiting the Gardens of Pena Park, walk about 10 minutes uphill toward the entrance to the Moorish Castle. The Moorish Castle is a stark contrast to Pena Palace. There are no colours to be found here, only the natural grey of the rocks and bright greens of the forest around it. While the entrance to the castle is right off the side of the road, the journey towards the original entry is about a 15-minute walk from there. You’ll stroll along a rolling pathway leading you around the castle walls’ exterior. Look up as you examine the old stone walls above the steep hillside around you.

History of the Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is one of the oldest parts of Sintra. It was built in the 8th and 9th centuries by the Moors. The term “Moors” was a general term used to name the Muslim inhabitants of Portugal. They brought with them their rich architectural histories, which generations would continue to be inspired by. In 1147, the Christian forces of the Reconquista fought the Moorish people and took the castle for themselves. It was used for military defence during the 14th century. But eventually, it feels like ruins when it is no longer needed for security. Over the next few hundred years, it became almost completely abandoned. With earthquakes, fires and neglect, many thought the castle would be lost to the ages.

But when King Ferdinand II bought Pena Palace, he also took some interest in the Castle of the Moors. Ferdinand really did have a passion for history. He took it upon himself to start preserving the remains of the castle and rebuilding the portions beyond repair.

Moorish Chapel

Upon entering through the castle’s main gates, you’ll see one of Ferdinand’s new constructions, a small chapel. This chapel contains relics found on the site, some from the Neolithic area (5000 BC). Important artifacts from the 10th-12th century Islamic cultures have also been found and are now on display inside the chapel. Outside the chapel, you can see a glass cover atop the stones displaying replica bones from where bodies were discovered buried beneath the castle floor. The King pointedly collected the bones and placed them in a small tomb. A large stone marks the spot with an engraving which says, “What man has joined only God will set apart.“

Upon entering through the Curtain Wall, to the left of the archway is the site of the old stables. A newly built stylized wooden structure marks the spot where you can grab a hot drink on a cold day or a cold drink on a warm day. Either way, it’s a nice place to recharge to hike up the castle walls.

Phases of Construction

Take a closer look at the walls of the castle. See if you can make out the four distinct different layers of which they’re made up. Each one tells the story of the people who ruled over this structure. The first layer is made of granite blocks which rest on the bedrock over what was once an Islamic house and silos in the 12th century. The second phase was a reconstruction using ancient techniques made in the 12-13th century. The third phase was built in the 19th century when King Ferdinand took possession of the castle and helped with its restoration. The last stage was built in the 20th century when the building became a tourist destination run by the government. Steps were taken to ensure its safety and strength for future generations.

The large open courtyard is called the Pracad de Armas, where the military garrison would gather in the 13th century. When it was remodelled by King Ferdinand later in the 19th century, it was made into a garden oasis space for contemplation. It is still a beautiful area for people to sit and enjoy the view if they cannot manage the hike up the walls.

Exploring the Ruins

We visited on an especially windy day. Despite this, we walked the entire way to the top of the walls for a spectacular panorama of Sintra and Pena Palace. Walking up these walls, you feel like an explorer discovering ancient ruins. When you finally make it to the top, the scene is stupendous. Pena Palace seems so far away; it was hard to imagine that you were standing on that yellow terrace only hours ago.

The walk down from the tower is much more leisurely. Although the landscape is the same going down as it was going up, somehow, it seems different, almost like getting another angle on the entire vista. It’s incredible to observe the lush bushes, trees and flowers that sprout from within the rocks themselves.

Quinta da Regaleira

Next, it’s time to head over to the Quinta da Regaleira. To get to this palace, you can summon an Uber from the Moorish Castle (be warned, this can take some time since the castle is located at the top of a one-way street, we had multiple Ubers cancel but eventually got one. It just takes some patience). The Ubers are extremely well priced at approximately 6-9 euros.

You can also take the bus 434 towards the Palácio Nacional de Sintra and then walk the rest of the way (approx. 13 mins). You can also take the tuk-tuks, which wait outside the Moorish Castle. This is probably the fastest option, they are always waiting there but their speed and availability come at a price (about 5 euros per person). If you’re in a rush, it’s a great option to get around if money isn’t a problem.

History of the Quinta da Regaleira

The Quinta da Regaleira was the summer palace of António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, or ‘Monteiro the Millionaire’ as he was better known at the time. King Ferdinand made it popular to come and build spectacular palaces in Sintra, and Monteiro wanted in on the trend. So many rich aristocrats were building summer houses in Sintra, but Monteiro wanted his to be jaw-droppingly ornate. He wanted it to be even more fantastical than the King’s palace. Spread across the hillsides of Sintra, Monteiro created a veritable garden of Eden for himself and his family.

Luigi Manini

The palace was designed by the Italian architect Luigi Manini. Upon his visit to the palace, Lord Byron called it “a glorious Eden.” poet L.V. de Camões wrote that it was “an oasis where one could imagine that every pool and stream has nymphs in its waters.” Monteiro believed in primitivism, and as such, the layout of his gardens may have been carefully designed. But the plants were left to grow as they pleased, and in this wildness is where we find some of the most beautiful parts of the palace. The tree spread across the grounds seemed to almost camouflage the buildings below, swallowing them up whole beneath their lush green leaves. Only parts of the structures can be seen peeking out from beneath, giving visitors only clues about where to find those secrets.

Regaleira Chapel

Upon walking in, before visiting the main interior of the palace, first explore the grounds. Standing close to the entrance is the Regaleira Chapel. Its architecture is so similar to the palace’s that it almost looks like a minature version. Inside is a richly decorated interior, with stucco carved into elaborate shapes and decorations dripping off the ceiling. Delicate leaves seem to grow out of the walls, and it feels like if you could reach out and touch them, they would perhaps wilt under pressure. Frescoes depicting Teresa of Ávila and Saint Anthony are painted onto the walls and ceilings. At the same time, the windows are made of brilliant blue stained glass.

Free Masons

On the floor, the richly hued tiles form the shape of the armillary sphere of the Portuguese discoverers. This symbol you’ll more than likely have seen all across Lisbon. The armillary sphere is a model of constellations in the sky which was used to help the Portuguese navigate the globe. These scientific discoveries helped the Portuguese become wealthy explorers. As such, science was almost believed to be just as powerful as religion. And the Free Masons thought science was the guiding light in the world’s darkness. Around the sphere, you’ll see various pentagrams. The pentagram is a five-pointed star often associated with mysticism and the occult. Rumours abound of Monteiro’s association with the Knight Templar. He designed this entire palace as Masonic Temple, and symbolism from their order can be found all over if you know where to look.

God’s Promenade

Continue walking along the path towards the Gods Promenade and grotto. This little area features dozens of statues of classical gods hidden amongst the sweeping greenery. Among the flora, see if you can spot the many cedar and acacia trees which grow in the garden. These trees are of special importance as they were often associated with the Free Masons. Cedars are considered the symbol of eternity as these trees are some of the strongest and longest-living trees on earth. Cedar trees were thought the be what the Temple of Jerusalem and the Ark of the Covenant were made of. Acacia trees are evergreen and, as such, a symbol of the soul’s immortality.

You’ll find secret tunnels throughout the park, some of which have no artificial light, and you need to break out your iPhone flashlight to find your way. I kept wondering if, at one point, we would be turned away or be met with an “off-limits” sign, but that never happened. We were totally left to explore the park-like our own playground. These secret tunnels help lead you to the grounds of the palace. Walk down to the grotto and find your way through the tunnels up the hill, and you might find yourself standing at the bottom of the famed Initiation Well.

Initiation Wells

There are two Initiation Wells located on the property. Even though they are called ‘wells,’ they have never used a water source; their purpose is entirely ritualistic. It is thought that these wells were once more linked to the Knights Templar and mysticism and perhaps used in initiation ceremonial rites. Both of the wells contain a set of winding stairs. In many cultures, these winding stairs are thought to represent both life and rebirth.

The largest well contains nine platforms. These nine levels were thought to symbolize the nine sections of Purgatory and the nine circles of Hell from Dante’s Divine Comedy. At the bottom of the well, as both seen from above and below, is a large compass inlaid over a Knights Templar cross. With symbols like these, it’s hard to ignore all the rumours about the Masonic symbolism in the palace. The smaller well, named the ‘Unfinished Well’ is its walls are rougher and more naturalist, and it feels much more ominous to explore as it was created out of mother earth herself.

Portal of the Guardians

You’ll find the Portal of the Guardians in the centre of the upper portion of the grounds. This building is made of two towers connected by a central pavilion. In the centre are two angry lizards clamouring over a giant conch shell. Above are a series of fillagree above the archway carved into the shape of fish heads. Behind the entrance, you’ll find one of the hidden passageways into the Initiation Well.

You’ll find more mystical influences inside many of the little caves and grottos. Inside this cave, we found the image of the blazing star hanging above the centre of the room, suspiciously anchored to the ceiling with a pulley so the star could be lowered or raised. The blazing star is special for the Knight Templar as it represents man’s knowledge and how intelligence is the secret to bringing light into the darkness. The sun is often seen in areas where a ritual was practised, and it was especially ominous here in the echoing cavern, the eyes of the siren sitting above the fountain the only ones looking back at us.

Interior of the Palace

The final part of the grounds to explore is the palace’s interior. Auspicious gargoyles stare down at any visitors stepping inside, and the greying walls make the otherwise ubiquitous sandstone look very grim. The castle is covered in ornate capital and gothic pinnacles. A fantastical octagonal tower is atop the palace, like the topping to a wedding cake.

The first room is one of the most impressive. The dining room’s main feature is the incredible hunting scene carved into the stucco on the fireplace mantle. Atop the mantle is a statue of a woodsman. Across the room, beautiful hand-painted wallpapers depict more scenes of country life in Portugal. It’s both regal and quaint, all at once. The rest of the rooms are just as ornate, although the use of wood throughout keeps it feeling more like a lodge than a castle.

Village of Sintra

After touring all these famous castles and palaces, it’s finally time to head back into the town of Sintra and explore the tiny streets and hidden alleyways before heading home. You can easily walk from the Quinta da Regaleira into the main part of the village, and the walk is part of the fun! I was amazed at how, as the day wore on and the tourist began to journey back, the city started to open up and once more feel like just another quiet, little village.

There are so many charming cafes and shops in the main parts of town; each one is worth poking your head inside if something catches your eye. Their post office was one of my favourite random places. I stopped in awe at the beautiful tile work that continued throughout the little building.

Outside the Palácio Nacional de Sintra is a great place to take a seat and enjoy the view of the colourful houses stacked on top of each other and look up, way up, to see the walls and towers of the Moorish Castle high above you.

Dinner & Dessert

If you aren’t rushing to get home, it’s worth stopping for dinner in town at Tascantiga. This little cafe covered in red and white gingham table clothes serves traditional Portuguese tapas in a friendly environment where you feel like family the minute you walk in the door.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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For dessert, you must head to the famous Casa Piriquita for the traditional Sintra pastry, Travesseiro de Sintra (or Sintra’s Pillows). These flaky rectangular desserts are stuffed with whipped egg custard and almonds and look like tiny, fluffy pillows. They are the perfect thing to grab and enjoy on your train ride back to the city.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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esquita) on May 18, 2019 at 4:41am PDT

Leaving Sintra

Sintra is incredible; many tourists flock here, but there’s a reason they do. If you come early, you’ll get ahead of the big groups. Whenever you feel like there’s too much of a crowd in one area, it’s usually pretty easy to just wander somewhere else and wait for those clusters to leave. I wish we had chosen to spend a night in town since I would have loved to walk the streets at night when almost all the day-trippers headed home, and you would have the city practically all to yourself. If that works for your schedule, I would definitely recommend doing that. But a whole day in Sintra still was plenty of time for us to see everything on our list at a gentle enough pace to soak it all in.

Have you been to Sintra, or are you planning a trip there? Let me know your favourite spots or any questions you have in the comments!

Happy Travel Adventurers!

The post Explore the Enchanting Castles of Sintra: A One-Day Self-Guided Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.