Table Of Contents

1. Map of 2-Days in Bruges Itinerary
2. Where to Stay?
3. History of Bruges
4. Day One in Bruges
5. Day Two in Bruges

Map of 2-Days in Bruges Itinerary

Why Spend at Least 48 Hours in Bruges?

Many people visiting Bruges skip staying the night and instead choose to visit either on a day-trip bus tour or a quick stopover on their way through Belgium. But I strongly encourage you to stay at least one night in the city. This way, you can properly experience the atmosphere of this ancient city, both during the day and at night. The town’s true nature comes alive once the heavy loads of day-tripping tourists disappear in the later afternoon. Locals open their doors, and the city feels more than just a postcard but a living piece of history.

Where to Stay?

Budget Option: Hotel Fevery

Hotel Fevery in Bruges is a cozy, family-run retreat just a short walk from the city center. Known for its warm and homely atmosphere, this charming hotel offers comfortable, spotless rooms and a delicious breakfast. Guests appreciate the friendly, attentive staff who go above and beyond to ensure a pleasant stay, making Hotel Fevery a perfect blend of comfort and convenience for a memorable visit to Bruges.

Mid-Range Option: Boutique Hotel Sablon

Boutique Hotel Sablon is a stylish four-star hotel located just five minutes from Grote Markt square. The hotel offers plush suites with freestanding bathtubs and lounge areas. The decor combines modern style with historic elements, featuring contemporary art and a luxurious Living Room bar. It’s a perfect choice for travelers seeking a balance of comfort and elegance without breaking the bank​.

Luxury Option: Hotel De Orangerie

For a more luxurious stay, consider Hotel De Orangerie. This boutique hotel is set in a beautifully restored 15th-century building along the Den Dijver canal. The hotel offers elegant rooms with antique furnishings and modern amenities. Guests can enjoy high tea in the plush dining room or on the terrace by the canal. The hotel’s central location makes it easy to explore Bruges’ top attractions​.

History of Bruges

Bruges is not just a gothic-looking town; it is a gothic town. The streets are still lined with stones older than perhaps even my home country, and even the most ubiquitous family home looks like a gothic paradise. Bruges is a UNESCO-protected city, and as such, historians ensure that everything remains unchanged from its perpetual state of gothic opulence. Any renovations undertaken to protect buildings from the perils of old age are done with lots of research and employ only old materials to fix or repair any damage.

Bruges first established itself as a settlement in the 9th century. Since Bruges was a city settled on the river, connected to the North Sea, it immediately became a hub for international trade. The name Bruges is derived from the word Bryggia, an old Scandinavian word meaning harbour.  Bruges was northwest Europe’s most important trade centre in the Middle Ages. It specialized in Flemish cloth, one of the most essential products in medieval times, as it was used to sew clothing for everyone from villagers to the royal family. Because the cloth market was exploding nationwide, more and more money poured into the city. The overwhelming wealth meant Bruges could build some of Europe’s most impressive pieces of medieval architecture.

The Growth of the City of Bruges

Throughout the 15th and 16th centuries, Bruges fluctuated under an ever-changing economy. While other European cities were able to expand, Bruges remained a small town. It couldn’t keep up with the worldwide growth and eventually lost its position as the leading trade city to Antwerp, with a population that doubled its own. Bruges slowly fell out of the limelight and disappeared from European high society.

In the 1800s, Bruges became the most impoverished city in Belgium as all trade routes into the city had shut. It is perhaps this period of poverty that we have to thank for the preservation of the city’s historic architecture. There was no money for renovations, expansion or modernization. In the mid-19th century, when the tourism industry started to creep outside the major cities into the countryside, people began discovering this untouched town gem. People from all over fell in love with the historic-artistic culture they found here, left untouched by urbanization.

Day One in Bruges

The Grote Markt

The best place to start your tour is in the Grote Markt, which serves as the centre of Bruges. It seems fitting to begin your journey in the area that brought Bruges all its wealth. The first known marketplace was built here in the 10th century. Later, in the 12th century, a wooden market hall was developed to help house fish, cloth imports, and exports. The square turned from a simple shopping area into a meeting place for jousting tournaments, weddings, royal parades and even executions. The square is still used today as a marketplace despite the passage of time.

In 1996, the square was converted into a pedestrian zone where horse-drawn carriages and bicycles were the only modes of transportation allowed. Tourists can wander and gaze up at the buildings around them without fear of being hit by a car. And gaze up, you will!

Bruges Belfy

Looming over Markt Square stands the Belfry Tower atop the infamous Cloth Hall. The Belfry was built in 1240 but needed to be rebuilt in 1280 after a fire ravaged the first building. If the octagonal-shaped top looks slightly unfinished, you’d be correct in thinking so. The tower was once topped with a great spire. There were various spires, but each was the victim of lightning strikes, reducing them all to ash. There is a famous poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow which goes, “In the marketplace of Bruges stands the Belfry old and brown; Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilt. Still, it watches o’er the town.”

Bell in the Belfry

In the medieval ages, the Belfry’s bells were the only indicator citizens had to tell the start of the workday, signal for fire, or even begin a festival or event. In the 16th century, a 35-set carillon was installed in the tower. A carillon is a set of bells that could be played using a keyboard below the tower, creating a more musical sound than a few single bells rung from ropes ever could.

You can still climb the 366 steps to the top of the tower, as patrolmen once did, to look out for fires that could have destroyed this incredible city. The view from the top is unequalled and worth the time and effort.

“French” Fries in Bruges

At the bottom of the Belfry Tower is a local French Fry vendor who serves some of the most delicious Belgian fries. There are ongoing disputes over the term “french fries” and its origin. The Belgians insist it was them. The story goes that when American armies were stationed in Belgium, the Flemish military served them one of their favourite (and inexpensive) meals—fried potato strips.

The American army LOVED them and took the recipe back home. They called them french fries since French was the local language in Belgium then, and the Americans assumed they were in France. While the French aren’t known for selling fries on the street, the Belgians have perfected the snack on the go. They serve them alongside mustard and mayonnaise dipping sauce, an oddly delicious side dish that is the perfect thing to eat to keep you going throughout your tour.

While chowing down on your snack, take a moment to study the brightly coloured buildings surrounding that square. Each one is topped with iconic crow-stepped gables, which have become the quintessential characteristic of Bruges. 

Statue of Jan Breydel and Pierter de Conick

Take a seat in the centre of the square, beneath the grand statue of Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck. These two men are local heroes known for leading the uprising against the invading French in 1302 and keeping Bruges a part of Belgium.

Provincial Hof

Across from the statue is the Provincial Hof or Provincial Court. The building now houses the government of West Flander and a local post office, but hundreds of years ago, it was home to the largest port in Bruges. Initially built in 1294, it was demolished in 1787 and rebuilt in a neogothic style reminiscent of its original Gothic architecture. One of the most iconic parts of its design is the bright red dormer windows, which pop out of the stone grey roof.

Hendrik and Gustaaf Pickery designed all the interior decorations; intricate stained glass windows and exquisite ironwork cover the rooms like wild vines. The statues and murals within depict scenes of famous personalities from West Flanders and provide a visual history of the building of their great city.

Chocolatier Dumon

Dumon Chocolates are among the most popular souvenirs people bring home from Bruges. Belgium is known worldwide for its chocolate creations, and Dumon has found a way to perfect the art. Established in 1992, this family-run business expanded around Belgium, but their first family-run shop was in Bruges.

As you open the door, you are overwhelmed with melting chocolate’s sweet and slightly bitter scent. The tiny shop is almost no wider than arm’s length but is charmingly cluttered. Chocolates glisten behind glass cabinets, and you can’t help but start to drool. While there are no labels, the kind employees (all family members) will lovingly tell you about all the different kinds of chocolate and prepare a customized box with all your favourites. They speak English in addition to French and Belgian, but if you can’t communicate, you can’t go wrong with anything inside.

Hof Bladelin

Walking past Dumon, along the narrow streets and alleyways, you come upon Hof Bladelin. Hof Bladelin was once an aristocratic mansion, which has now been converted into a home for the elderly and a small museum. The Hof Bladelin was initially built in 1451 as the house of Pieter Bladelin and his wife, Margaret of Vagewierre. Pieter was the counsellor and treasurer for Philip the Good, the Duke of Burgundy.

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At the time, he was one of the wealthiest men in Bruges and wanted to build a house, which reflected his enormous wealth. The Bladelins had no children, and after their death, the house came up for auction in 1472. It was purchased by the Medicis, a powerful Florentine banking family known for coveting the most beautiful pieces of art and architecture from the world’s greatest artists.

The Hof Bladelin has the architectural design of a Gothic castle. The Renaissance courtyard was designed in Italian and added to the building by the Medici family. There are still stone medallion portraits of Lorenzo de Medici and his wife in the courtyard. The ribbed vaulted ceiling in the interiors has some unique corbels adorned with scenes depicting Bladelin’s duties and the life of St. Alphege of Canterbury.

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The Poortersloge

The Poortersloge, or Burgher’s Lodge, is an exemplary model of Gothic architecture in Bruges. It was built at the end of the 14th century and served as a meeting place for the burghers (town or city’s citizens). One can admire its magnificent façade, decorated with stone figures; one is of the legendary bear, Beertje van de Logie, dated 1417. In the past, banquets and festivities were held here; nowadays, the building contains historical documents.

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Cambrius

If you’re feeling peckish, stop off at the Cambrinus pub. The building oozes history. The original pub was built here in 1699, and despite a few updates, much of the place remains the same. When you arrive, the waiter will bring you a book the size of a dictionary with over 400 varieties of beer listed and vivid descriptions in various languages.

There truly is something for everyone. In addition to the best beer list in the country, their traditional Brugian food is also to die for. The rabbit stew is my favourite and will warm you up from the inside out if you are travelling in any of the colder months.

Burg Square

After lunch, make your way over to Burg Square. This square is one of the city’s most stunningly medieval parts. Architectural gems from the Gothic era to the Renaissance and the Neo-Classical Revival surround it from all sides.

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Burg Town Hall

Burg Town Hall, or “Stadhuis,” is the oldest building in the square. It was built in 1376 in a truly Gothic fashion. Standing between the bright red-painted windowsills are statues of men from the Court of Flanders intermingled with biblical figures. Each one looked down at the townspeople below, guiding them in their daily lives.

Sandwiched between the Town Hall is the Palace of the Liberty, which once served as the Old Court House for over 200 years. Its brilliant white painted facade with gold trim is decorated like a cake, with the golden Lady of Justice statue as the cherry on top. 

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Basilica of the Holy Blood

The Basilica of the Holy Blood stands in the corner of the square, tucked away so tightly it almost seems to disappear. This 14th-century church holds one essential item, a vial of “Holy Blood,” believed to be drops of blood and water washed from the body of Christ. 

Behind its dark, richly decorated facade hides an even more ornamental interior. The interior houses two chapels, each opposite the other. The upper chapel is the crown jewel of West Flanders in high Gothic style. From floor to ceiling, there are darkly painted murals depicting the Holy Trinity and various scenes of the journey of the Holy Blood Relic to Bruges. Vividly painted stained glass windows provide the only natural light inside the chapel. Little modern lighting has been installed inside to ensure the murals don’t fade with time.

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Heilig-Bloedbasiliek

The Holy Blood relic is embedded in a rock-crystal vial and placed inside a glass cylinder framed with two golden crowns. It is only shown to the public on certain days of the week, so check the schedule if you’re making a pilgrimage just to see it. It is housed inside a silver tabernacle with a picture of the Lamb of God on the front when it is not displayed. In recent years, the validity of the vial has come under question, and investigations have shown that it was nothing more than a Byzantine perfume bottle from Constantinople. But to those who believe, no amount of science can deter them.

The lower chapel is a simple Romanesque church from the 12th century, the last Romanesque church in all of West Flanders. This chapel has been virtually unchanged since it was first built. The two chapels are connected, but a large brick staircase was built in 1533 in the Renaissance style, which was subsequently destroyed during the French WWII occupation but rebuilt in the 19th century.

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Vismarkt

Across the bridge from Burg Square is the Vismarkt, or old Fish Market. The fish market was once located in Markt Square, but the smell of the fish was so intense that people around the square complained, so it was moved further east. The covered stone arcade was built in 1821. The market is only open from Wednesday to Saturday in the early morning, but you can visit the iconic stone structure any time of the day.

Dijver Canal

From the Fish Market, walk west along the Dijver Canal. The canal’s passageway from the fish market to Nieuwstraat is a classical view of Bruges you must see for yourself. Various restaurants along the canal are reasonably touristy but provide one of Bruges’s most beautiful scenes. If you just want to hop into one of their patios for a drink, I think the overpriced beer is well worth the view.

De Garre

To end your first day in Bruges, head to De Garre bar, nestled in a tiny alleyway. De Garre is a hidden gem in Bruges renowned for its exceptional house beer, the Tripel van De Garre. This robust and flavorful tripel, brewed exclusively for the pub, is a must-try for any beer enthusiast. The cozy and intimate atmosphere of De Garre, combined with its rich wooden decor, offers a perfect setting to enjoy this unique brew. The pub also serves a variety of other Belgian beers, making it an ideal spot to unwind and savour the local beer culture after a day of exploring the city​.

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Day Two in Bruges

Groeninge Museum

To start our second day in Bruges, we will head to the famous Groeninge Museum. The Groeninge Museum is an essential stop on your tour of Bruges as it gives you an introduction to Brugian art across six centuries. 

The Primitive Flemish style of painting is featured throughout the walls of museums. Flemish art isn’t classically considered exceedingly masterful since it sometimes seems slightly grotesque, raw, and explicit. Flemish painters always tried to emulate their Italian counterparts to achieve a dynamic perspective, but they didn’t have the technical skills to realize these effects. The result is images that appear almost warped but whose expressions are so genuine they leave a lasting impression on the people who view them. 

Arents House Courtyard

Across from the Groeninge Museum, you’ll find the Arents House. Arents House was once an ancient manor belonging to the noble Arents family. It now hosts an extensive collection of paintings by the British artist Frank Brangwyn. While it might be worth a visit on a more extended tour to Bruges, today, we are merely exploring its courtyard. The small yard between the two medieval houses is the perfect place to stop and pause. Listen to the sounds of cobblestones underfoot.

The trickle of water flows down the canal. From Arents Court, you have one of the most splendid views of the Church of Our Lady’s tower. If you’re lucky, you’ll hear the church bell rings across the street and the soft crowing of birds perched above. Four exciting sculptures by artist Rik Poot surround the courtyard, representing the “Four Apocalyptic Knights,” which are a great compliment to the artistic surroundings.

Bonifacius Bridge

Before heading to the Church of Our Lady, you’ll pass across the Bonifacius Bridge. Despite only dating from 1910, it is one of the most beautiful bridges in Bruges. The tightly interlaced cobblestones are red brick archways that provide the perfect frame for the church towers behind them. Standing on the bridge, you can watch tourists paddle up and down the canal.

The Church of Our Lady of Bruges

All of the churches in Bruges are enormous. They seem to tower over the tiny houses below. The Church of Our Lady’s tower is over 122 meters high, the highest point in Bruges and the world’s second tallest brickwork tower. Because the church took over two centuries to build, it combines various evolutions of Gothic architecture with a Baroque interior.

While the interior might not be as grand as its exterior, it is still worth poking your head inside. The central organ is small but opulent, hiding behind the high altar screen. A few dozen simple chairs provide seating for the small but dedicated congregation. The altar screen is unique both in colouring and design. Its white and green coloured marble are highlighted with splashes of gold leafing. Along the nave are columns dotted with reliefs of various influential saints. A sizeable wooden pulpit stands at attention on the right side of the nave; dozens of beautifully carved cherubs hang off the sides, clinging to books with golden scriptures written for the people below to read.

Tombs of Bruges Royalty

Behind the high altar is the resting place of two of Bruges’ most famous residents. The golden tombs of Charles the Bold and the Duchess Mary of Burgundy lie in quiet repose beneath a beautiful tryptic. The elaborately designed tombs are worth looking at, so don’t miss touring the back half of the church.

The crown jewel of this church is the white marble sculpture of the Madonna and Child, created by Michelangelo in 1504. Over the years, the statue has been stolen by foreign invaders, but those dedicated to preserving its place in Bruges have always managed to bring it back home. Although this sculpture doesn’t have the same impact as his Pieta in Rome, the sadness on Madonna’s face reflects her knowledge that this little boy will grow up only to die for the sins of his people.

Gruuthuse Hof

Away from the Church of Our Lady is the Gruuthuse Hof, a small but historic house adorably sandwiched between two major streets. Now a restaurant, the Gruuthuse Hof is one of the oldest residences in Bruges. While in one of the prime locations for tourists, the restaurant keeps a simple, traditional menu catering to locals and tourists alike. With only 28 seats inside and 12 on the patio, the place remains intimate despite its popularity over the eras. If you can find a table, it’s worth stopping in for the featured meal of the day.

St. Salvator’s Cathedral

Up from the Gruuthuse Hof is St. Salvator’s Cathedral. It is the oldest parish church in Bruges, with parts dating back to the 10th century. But the original design was much less grandiose than the current incarnation. In 1834, after Belgium’s independence, St. Salvator’s was given the status of a cathedral, and the meagre church had to be extensively renovated to match its new high status as a cathedral. 

The architect of the new cathedral was William Chantrell, an English architect greatly influenced by the resurgence of Neo-Romanesque architecture. Neo-Romanesque buildings feature thick walls, round arches, sturdy pillars, barrel vaults, large towers, and decorative arcades. This church stands out because most of Bruges is so powerfully Gothic.

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St. Salvator’s Cathedral Interior

The neo-Gothic interior of the church is relatively plain but is accented with stunning embroidered tapestries from the 18th century. These antiquated works of art were made in Brussels by Jasper van der Borcht and feature astounding scenes from the Bible, all created with needles and thread.

To the left of the nave, the pulpit is a stunning example of Louis XVI’s designs. Louis XVI’s design was predominantly produced in France and exemplified the last phase of Rococo design. The style focused on natural forms and dramatic embellishments.

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Old St. John’s Hospital

Walking back down Mariastraat, we come upon Old St. John’s Hospital, now the Memling Museum. Before becoming a museum, it was used as a hospital for the sick and dying, administered by nuns and priests. Inside are many relics and six paintings by a 15th-century painter and Bruges resident, Hans Memling. One of the highlights inside is the Shrine to St. Ursula. Carved into a gilded wooden reliquary in the shape of the church are six panels which tell the story of St. Ursula’s sainthood, painted by Memling himself. The work was commissioned by the Hospital of St. John and is one of the most exquisite pieces of religious art I’ve seen close up. The three-dimensional details and rich colours are remarkable. 

De Vos Almshouse

Further south, away from the central part of the city, we will come across the “De Vos Almshouse.” This small grouping of little white houses, facing a lush green herb and flower garden, once housed the poor, widows and the elderly. The houses were purchased by a wealthy Brugian merchant who loved his city and wanted to give back to the less fortunate.

Each home was donated to a specific guild (mason’s guild, blacksmith, coopers, etc.) and would provide housing for members of that guild when they became too old to work, fell ill or lost their jobs. You might notice how none of the houses have windows facing the street – this was because, at the time of their construction, a tax was improvised for any street-facing window.

Beguinage

Before our final destination, stop into the Beguinage’ De Wijngaard’ or Vineyard. This grouping of white houses with terracotta roofs is one of Bruges’s most peaceful places to rest your weary feet. So far from the town centre, this site is little toured by day-tripping tourists.

Since 1245, the Bruges beguine sisterhood has lived here, and in 1937, it became a monastery for the Benedictine sisters. To enter the Beguinage, you first pass through a large arched entrance gate built in 1776. Inside, you find houses dating from the 15th to 19th centuries.

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The Minnewater

The Minnewater, or Lake of Love, is one of the most beloved retreats for the remaining residents of Bruges. Swans float up and down the picturesque canals, and lovers roam under the densely forested pathways, arm in arm.

Poertorenpark

Poertorenpark, or Gunpowder Tower Park, is a serene spot near the picturesque Lake of Love in Bruges. The park features a striking round tower, historically used to store gunpowder, which reminds of the city’s medieval past. Surrounded by lush greenery and peaceful walking paths, Poertorenpark offers a tranquil escape from the bustling city center. Visitors can enjoy a leisurely stroll, relax on the benches, and take in the scenic views of the tower and the surrounding landscape, making it an ideal location for a quiet afternoon​.

Huisbrouwerij De Halve Maan

To end your last day in Bruges, head to Huisbrouwerij De Halve Maan. This historic brewery is known for its rich brewing tradition, which dates back to 1856. This family-run brewery has produced some of Belgium’s most beloved beers for generations, including the renowned Brugse Zot and Straffe Hendrik. Visitors to De Halve Maan can enjoy guided tours that offer insights into the brewing process, the brewery’s history, and the unique beer pipeline that runs under the streets of Bruges, transporting beer from the brewery to the bottling plant outside the city.

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The tour concludes with a tasting session, allowing guests to savour the distinct flavours of De Halve Maan’s craft beers while enjoying panoramic views of Bruges from the brewery’s terrace. The best way to soak in the last scenic views of the city.

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Bruges is a stunning city with a unique history, culture, and beauty blend. With the help of this 2-day itinerary, you can make the most of your time in Bruges and experience all this charming city has to offer. From exploring the stunning architecture and picturesque canals to sampling delicious Belgian chocolates and local beers, there’s something for everyone in Bruges.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post How to Spend the Perfect 48 Hours in Bruges, Best 2-Day Itinerary [UPDATED 2024] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This outer market grew up around the Tsukiji Fish Market. It supported the local and tourist populations gathering in this part of Tokyo. The narrow streets and alleys around the market housed some of the best casual restaurants and tiny street food vendors that served fish straight from the market. It also was (and is) where you could find great shopping for kitchen and household goods! Contrary to popular thought, this part of town did not disappear along with the fish market’s move to Koto City. The Tsukiji Outer Market is still a bustling area of Tokyo, even without the fish market nearby. So don’t miss this amazing foodie paradise, and make sure you follow our guide to the best of the Tsukiji Outer Market.

Table Of Contents

1. What is the Tsukiji Outer Market?
2. Access
3. Everything You Need to Eat!
   • Fresh Sushi
   • Tsukiji Itadori Bekkan
   • Maguro / Tuna 
   • Kaisendon
   • Grilled Scallops & Fresh Oysters
   • Tamagoyaki 
   • Fresh Fruit
   • Uni
   • Waygu
   • Unagi
   • Ice Cream
   • Daifuku Mochi
4. Shopping
   • Knife Shops
   • Ceramics
   • Spices & Dried Goods
5. Namiyoke Inari Shrine
   • Happy Travels, Adventurers!

What is the Tsukiji Outer Market?

The outer market is where you’ll find over 400 shops, grocers and small restaurants, crowded into only a few narrow alleys around what was once the largest fish market in Tokyo. The streets of the outer market explode with colour and excitement. Vendors yell at each other and passers-by 24/7, making the place feel full of life even in the very early hours of the morning.

Access

The Tsukiji Outer Market can be easily reached by foot from either Tsukiji Shijo Station on the Oedo Line or Tsukiji Station on the Hibiya Line. Shimbashi Station is the closest option for those using JR trains, with a 20-minute walk to the market.

Everything You Need to Eat!

Fresh Sushi

The outer market is the perfect spot to grab a bit of breakfast. Find a sushi bar with a bunch of old locals eating inside. Those with a line out of the door are always a surefire way to spot a good spot. While they might not have door-to-door access to fresh fish as before, they still bring in the same selection, just from a little further afield.

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Tsukiji Itadori Bekkan

Tsukiji Itadori Bekkan is one of the most popular spots in the outer market to find the best sushi and sashimi. It’s made to order, so you know it’s super fresh. It’s definitely on the more expensive side but well worth the price. The seasonal selection by the chef with 10 pieces of sushi and a roll will run you 5100 yen. They also have a Nagomi plate with seven pieces of shish and a roll for 3600. 

Maguro / Tuna 

Tuna is one of the most important fish sold at the fish market. One of the most popular tourist attractions at the new market is the Tuna auction. Early morning risers head to the market at the crack of dawn to witness the bidding wars that break out over the best pieces of fish caught that day. To see what all the fuss is about, you should make a point to seek out some fresh Maguro (tuna) served up on sushi or as sashimi. There are often variety plates that feature different varieties such as bluefin, fatty, medium fatty and regular tuna. A great way to see which is your favourite, so you know what to order next time. These can be expensive as tuna isn’t cheap, so expect to pay upwards of 3000 yen for a multi-piece tray.

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Kaisendon

A traditional breakfast dish eaten in Japan is Kaisendon. Kaisendon is a traditional Japanese dish consisting of a bowl of rice (“donburi”) topped with a variety of raw, fresh seafood (“kaizen”) known as sashimi. These can be found throughout the market, and every shop has its own unique take on the dish. You’ll always be served a variety of fish, everything from fatty tuna, shrimp, egg and other fresh daily fish selections. Bowls range from 1500 to 3000 yen.

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Grilled Scallops & Fresh Oysters

If you’re a seafood connoisseur and want the best of the best, plenty of shops here will be right up your alley. One of the most popular street foods in the Outer Market is fresh grilled scallops cooked over a charcoal flame. Thanks to the grilling, they have the most delicious flavour, which balances the sweetness of the scallop perfectly. These will run you about 1000 yen.

Another delight of the market is these larger-than-life oysters. They are absolutely oversized but nevertheless delicious. They taste clean and fresh and cost you about 700-800 yen.

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Tamagoyaki 

Plenty is more on offer if you’re not in the mood for fresh fish. Tamagoyaki is rolled-up, freshly made Japanese-style omelettes. They are super cheap at only 100 yen and a delicious way to start the day or just as a mid-afternoon snack. An entire slab of tamagoyaki runs about 500 – 800 yen, depending on if there are any additional ingredients. Great to share with friends.

Fresh Fruit

Tsukiji has always had a wide selection of fresh fruit vendors selling some of the best produce in the city. Is there anything more precious than the delicately wrapped fruits of Japan? I think not. Highly recommend, especially when in season, the strawberries. Japan is well known for its perfectly grown strawberries. And while they might seem pricey, they are spectacular. They even sell white strawberries which are super unique and even more delicious. A bowl of fresh strawberries generally costs about 500 yen for a selection.

Uni

One of the most uniquely Japanese delicacies has got to be fresh uni. Uni, or sea urchin, is the edible portion of the inside of spiny sea urchins. The taste is unrivalled. It’s almost buttery, with a sea-like flavour. I love it, and getting it fresh from the market is one of the best places to try it. They serve it on its own in various spots in Tsukiji and on sushi rice if you prefer to try it with a little bit of rice. Uni is a little pricey, a bowl of pure uni will run you about 1500 yen, but a single piece of uni sushi will be much less expensive.

Waygu

Another food item that many people coming to Japan might be looking for is Waygu beef. Wagyu is the classification given to four different Japanese breeds of beef cattle. It is widely known for being the most tender, delicious beef you can eat. In the Tsukiji market, you’ll see lots of stands selling sticks of Wagyu beef. Some shops sell thinner slices of beef you can pick out, and they cook it right before you. Overall, I prefer to have my Waygu in a restaurant. But if this is your only opportunity to try it, you can always pick out a small slice to ensure you try this pedigree cut of beef at least once!

Unagi

Another traditional dish served in the market is Unagi. Unagi is freshly grilled eel, slathered in a thick, sweet and savoury sauce which is carmelized over the fish as it cooks over a hot grill. You can find sticks of Unagi for around 300 yen. If you’ve never had Unagi, this is a great opportunity to try it out!

Ice Cream

If you’re in the mood for desserts, soft-serve ice cream will always be on offer all over the outer market. Dozens of different flavours to choose from spill out along the streets. Vendors are ready to give a sweet treat to anyone walking by, even on colder days.

Daifuku Mochi

Mochi is one of my favourite Japanese sweets. Mochi is made from pounding sweet rice flour into a gummy texture wrapped around different fillings like macha or sweet red bean paste. In the Tsukiji Market, you can find mochi topped with a fresh red or white strawberry that amps the flavour up to 100!

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Shopping

Knife Shops

The Tsukiji Outer market is home to many stores selling specialty chef and kitchen utensils. Most of these were opened to be geared toward sushi chefs preparing their fish. But today, they are a little more broad and open to everyone. Inside you’ll find professional-grade knives. Japanese knives are known as some of the best in the world, and if you’re looking for an upgrade to your kitchen collection, this is such a wonderful souvenir to treat yourself to. Something you will use for the rest of your life.

Ceramics

The ceramics in the market were my favourite thing to pursue. They were so inexpensive, but the designs were incredible. The vibrant colours and intricate paintings were handmade, each a little different from the next. I would pick out my favourite patterns from each shop and, at the end of the day, have a little collection of four perfectly mismatched, but that’s what makes it so charming.

Spices & Dried Goods

Tsukiji is also a wonderful place to shop for spices and dried goods. One of the best things to look for is homemade Furikake. Furikake is a dry Japanese condiment made from green and nori seaweed flakes. In addition to the seaweed, there are a variety of additional ingredients added for the various flavours, from sesame seeds, fish flakes, spices and more. Furikake is used to sprinkle on top of rice, veggies, and anything you like. But the ones made fresh from the market are even more special and a great gift to bring home.

Namiyoke Inari Shrine

While in the market, you should definitely make a visit to the small Namiyoke Inari Shrine. This shrine was the guardian of the marketplace and its traders when the old fish market was here. The name means “protection from waves,” which is very suitable for all the fishermen who pass by daily. Although the fisherman has moved, the shrine remains. The courtyard is dotted with various memorial plaques and carvings donated by trade groups in the marketplace. An excellent way to bring happiness and prosperity to the traders.

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One of the greatest things to do while walking around the Tsukiji Outer Market is exploring. Get lost, and you’ll always discover something fantastic. The smells from each alleyway changes from street to street. Sweet, sour, fishy, spicy and pungent. A feast for the senses. 

The greatest thing about this place is that after the exodus of the Fish market, the area became a little more local. Sure, it’s still immensely popular with tourists, but it’s equally just a spot for locals to grab something to eat on their way to work. You’ll pass hundreds of people on their way to grab a snack before they get on the train or mothers pushing prams trying to do their morning shopping.

I love watching locals doing their thing, living in their city, and experiencing the environments the way they were supposed to be experienced. Not as guests, as settlers.

The outer market is busy, loud and unmissable. Make sure you carve out time in your next trip to Tokyo to explore and eat all there is on offer!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Ultimate Guide to Tsukiji Outer Market’s Must-Try Foods [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

About L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is known as the “Venice of Provence” to many locals. Moss-covered water wheels sparkly in the morning sunlight. These water wheels are an important historical icon of the city. Back in the 12th century, the rivers were primarily used for fishing, which was the biggest industry in the city. The first houses built in the area were built on stilts, just like in Venice! Even today, the village still honours their fishing heritage by hosting a festival on the third Sunday in July. Its hosted by the brotherhood of Pescaire Lilien (fishers of the Isle) and features demonstrations of the ancient fishing techniques. If you happen to be in the area around the time of the festival, don’t miss checking it out!

Water Wheels

After the fishing industry disappeared and moved closer to the coasts, the city turned to the textile industry. They used the river to power the water wheels used for silk, tanneries, and paper mills. There are still 14 remaining water wheels around the city, and it’s really fun trying to find them all as you explore. I’ve added them all to the map in this guide if you want to easily find them all.

Today the industry is primarily powered by antiques and sightseers perusing the ancient streets. Gorgeous, rustic french houses are still on show on either side of the river. They seem to beam with excitement, green trees hang over sidewalks and even the alleyways smell of freshly baked bread permeating the air.

Table Of Contents

1. About L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
   • Water Wheels
2. Where is the Market?
3. When is the Market?
4. Getting There
5. How Long to Spend at the Market?
6. Bring Cash
7. French Tips
8. Self-Guided Walking Tour of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
   • Café de France
   • Place de la Liberté
   • Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges de L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
   • Rue Rose Goudard
   • Quai Jean Jaurès
   • Avenue des Quatre Otages – Antique Market
   • What to Avoid in the Market?
   • Picnic in Public Garden

Where is the Market?

The Market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is located along the Sorgue river in Southeastern France. Just west of Avignon in the Vaucluse région of Provence. The gorgeous market is located around the Place de la Liberté, Place Ferdinand Buisson, Rue Carnot, Rue de la République and on Place Rose Goudard.

When is the Market?

The Market is held every Thursday and Sunday, but the Sunday market is far superior. On Sundays, you can find what the french call a “brocante” also called a flea market! Some market stalls open as early as 6 am, but most stalls will open around 8 am and close at 2 pm. The cheapest prices of the day can be found just before closing as sellers often try to get rid of their produce before heading home.

Getting There

By Train

If you are planning on taking the train, the station is a short walk from the market. I prefer taking the train if I’m staying nearby as this means you never need to worry about finding a parking spot! You’ll want to find trains on their way towards L’Isle-sur-Sorgue—Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. Luckily Avignon has a direct train to L’Isle-sur-Sorgue, which only takes 36 minutes. From other cities like Arles, Marseille, Aix-en-Provence and Orange, the trip is just over an hour with a straightforward change. Tickets cost anywhere between 10€ and 30€ depending on your starting location.

By Car

L’Isle-sur-Sorgue is located at the intersection of the D31, D901 and D938 highways. This makes it an easy drive from a myriad of surrounding towns. The only downside of driving is finding a parking spot but that can easily be remedied by arriving early.

Parking

Parking is a premium, so I would advise arriving before 8 am. This ensures a nice spot close to the market and less stress! Watching the vendors magically unfurl their goods into a full-on shop front is one of the best parts of the day. If you arrive late, there often aren’t parking spots available. So you’ll find yourself driving around and around, waiting for someone to leave. If all the vendors are still setting up, head out to find an open coffee shop. I highly recommend Café de France! After nabbing some caffeine and a snack, find a quiet spot on the grass along the river. Here you can enjoy a bit of quiet before the hustle and bustle of the busy market erupt.

Remember: be sure not to leave any valuables in your car. Since this is a popular tourist spot, there is always a chance that someone could break in. Best to make sure not to give them any reason to do so and keep the interior empty.

How Long to Spend at the Market?

I would advise at least three hours to spend in the market. The antique area alone is bound to cast a spell on you. You’ll find yourself just immersed in a treasure hunt! And making your way around the food market and creating your own DIY picnic is the best way to enjoy the goodies you find along the way. Rushing in and out doesn’t allow you to truly appreciate the amazing things on sale in this charming market.

Bring Cash

If you’re waiting for the market to open, be sure to stop by an ATM. Or bring lots of cash with you. The vendors will almost always only accept cash, and it’s good to get enough to last you throughout the day. Since it gets so busy here, it is common for ATMs to run out of money by midday. Keep that in mind.

French Tips

One key thing to making good with the vendors is knowing a bit of French.  Although the vendors interact with tourists often, it’s nice to show them a bit of respect. Even a simple please (s’il vous plaît) or thank you (merci) goes a long way. And a warm greeting of “bonjour” is required to be considered polite. If you want to ask the price of something, simply say “c’est combine?” And remember if you don’t want to interrupt or be extra considerate, you can always say “excuse moi” before trying to interject. All these little sayings will go a long way to indear yourself to the vendor for even trying!

Self-Guided Walking Tour of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Café de France

To start your morning in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, head to grab a coffee at the somewhat famous Café de France. This Art Nouveau coffee shop is the oldest cafe on the Isle, and you can feel the historic atmosphere just walking inside. The counter is stained with water rings from orders past and the charming posters on the walls reflect the ages gone by. Large tarnished mirrors between dark wooden panelling make this place a quintessential brasserie.

If there’s space on the outdoor terrace grab a table. The people-watching opportunities here are amazing, as you can catch vendors on their way to the market, arms full of their goods ready to be set up! Although the food is slightly overpriced, this is often the price you pay to dine inside history!

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Place de la Liberté

Place de la Liberté is one of my favourite little streets in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. So even if you don’t find you need a coffee, I still implore you to walk along this street to enjoy the incredible street signage and old French shops. Colourful window shutters line the second floors, while wrought-iron awnings protect the gorgeous painted exteriors along the street!

Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges de L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Walking along Place de la Liberté you have a view, albeit from the side, of the great Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges de L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. While the exterior is a bit austere, you absolutely must head inside! Even if just for a moment, you need a quick peek at the incredible architecture found within.

The original Romanesque church was built in 1222. But the shock and awe of this building lie in the baroque-era decorations that adorn almost every surface inside. Gilded altarpieces, detailed sculptures, ribbed vaulting, rich paintings and fantastical frescos awe and inspire the visitors. As you enter, your eyes will be darting all over the room, trying to take it all in! Although we came here for the market, this church is NOT to be missed, even if just for a moment.

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The primary colour scheme within the church is blue and gold, a popular pairing for baroque Provençale.

Rue Rose Goudard

Head back outside and along the Place de L’Eglise. Often there are a few stands just starting to open up along this street. More appear as you continue south-east along Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. But the largest selection of fresh food can mostly be found collected along the Rue Rose Goudard. Seasonal fruit and vegetables, charcuterie and olives pour out of charming wood and thicker baskets under brightly coloured awnings. Vegetables almost beam with brilliance they are so vibrantly coloured. You can’t help but want to try a piece of them all!

What to Buy in the Market?

So what to buy? One of the best things to do is gather items for a picnic luncheon. Fresh sausage is one of the best items in the market. Packed with incredible spices and made from some of the best meats in France, these cured delights are a must-grab!

The produce is some of the best in the country here in Provence. Melons, peppers, strawberries and cherries are as bright as they are juicy. Vendors often have samples out in front, so you can try whichever one catches your fancy.

If you’re looking for something to bring home, there is an assortment of olive oils in beautifully designed bottles. But if you just want something to nosh on today, olives are another great Provencal treat! Plus, they are a great addition to the rest of your picnic goods. You can combine all different varieties, perfect for sampling a bit of everything. 

The French are KNOWN for their cheese and bread! There perhaps isn’t a more iconic image of French dining. The cheese on offer here in the market is just as good as any luxury grocery store and often twice as fresh.

If you’re staying for a few days, grab a bouquet of flowers to brighten up your hotel room. The smell and colours are unforgettable!

Quai Jean Jaurès

As you continue wandering towards the Sorgue River, you’ll exit onto Quai Jean Jaurès. This street is where the market continues but where it transforms into more souvenir-type items. Everything from wooden kitchen utensils, textiles, handicrafts and clothes can be found here.

Dried lavender is sold in bags and bouquets all over the market. This is the perfect souvenir to bring home. In a sachet, it keeps the clothing in your drawers smelling fresh and of those memories from Provence. Grabbing a bundle of dried lavender is great to display but can be hard to transport home in one piece!

Soap is another thing you’ll see hundreds of shops selling. All in different designs and prices. Check to see if it was made in Provence before buying! You want the real thing. There will often be a discount if you buy in bulk, making great gifts for anyone back at home.

Avenue des Quatre Otages – Antique Market

The pop-up antique brocante vendors are located on the south side of the river, along the Avenue des Quatre Otages. A tip for shopping here is that haggling isn’t common and neither is getting a good deal. But the selection is great, and I found plenty at prices I thought were more than fair for the quality. The prices are often very well labelled, so even if you don’t speak French you should be able to shop without having to ask to vendors for pricing. Remember, if you see something you love, buy it right away. As it might be gone before you have the chance to return.

Best Antique Finds?!

Although things like furniture might not be able to fit into your suitcase, there are lots of smaller items which are worth considering. Many different vendors sell beautiful prints taken from old manuscripts and books. Once framed, make for a one-of-a-kind souvenir. 

Textiles are another great thing to keep an eye out for. Napkins, tablecloths, purses and blankets are often beautifully embroidered. They are sometimes even monogrammed – so keep an eye out, and you might even find one that matches your name!

What to Avoid in the Market?

Now, what are the best items to buy in the market? And what to avoid? The stuff to avoid is quite obvious – anything that isn’t decidedly French. Keep an eye out for “made in China” stickers on clothing, ceramics and even some textiles. I was surprised how many pieces of pottery I came across that were simply painted and not provencal in the slightest bit.

Picnic in Public Garden

After grabbing all you can carry, head back down the river and find a nice spot under the trees in the Public Garden. The park features tons of grassy patches to lay out with your delicious selection of the day. On Sundays, musicians stroll around, playing to entertain the visitors.

Along the river’s edge, painters are set up with their oils and pencils. Sketching the iconic scenery. Watching them work while enjoying your French meal makes for a darling little afternoon treat. Listening to the water wheels peddling in the distance.

This brings us to the end of the self-guided tour of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. If you want to extend your stay, consider simply wandering through the backstreets. While the market might have the biggest draw, the charming little houses in some unassuming back alleys contain some of the most iconic French sights you’ll see in Provence. Bright window shutters contrast the aging patina of the beige buildings. Cheerful street cats prowl around every corner. Secrets to be found wherever you go!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Ultimate Guide to Spectacular L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Market [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Hours and Access

The church is located in the Pla de la Seu, right in the centre of the Gothic Quarter. To get there you can take the Metro to ‘Jaume I Station‘ on line 4. It is also easily accessible on foot if you’re already in this area of town.

The Cathedral’s opening hours for visitors are as follows:
Monday to Friday: 8 am-12:30 pm and 5:45 pm-7:30 pm.
Saturdays: 8:30 am-12:30 pm. and from 5:15 pm – 8 pm. 
Sundays and Holidays: 2:00 pm – 5:30 pm

During the rest of the time, the Cathedral is dedicated to religious worship only. Although you are more than welcome to attend, no photography is permitted during this time. You are expected to simply spend this time in respectful prayer. While there are no days when the building is officially closed if you’re visiting during a holiday its best to check their website schedule for updated visiting hours.

Admission

While entry into the Cathedral is free there are certain areas that require admission. The main nave of the cathedral and the cloisters are both accessible without a ticket. Entry into the Choir costs €3, the Terraces and lift cost €3. Alternatively, you can get these two tickets PLUS entries into the chapel and Sala Capitular museum for €7. The later is the best deal. The view from the rooftop terraces is amazing so I’d recommend it. Be warned the terrace closes 30 minutes before the rest of the church. Don’t forget about this especially if you’ve already purchased your ticket. Unless you’re visiting during the absolute peak of tourist season, you can easily buy your tickets upon arrival inside.

Tips

I visited the Cathedral twice on my first visit to Barcelona. Despite not having an issue buying a ticket, I did find that when I visited in the afternoon the cathedral was quite busy. Since it was so crowded so I returned the next day in the early morning just as it opened. This time of day is really magical. The sun rises just behind the Cathedral and the usually packed square in front of the church is full of nothing except the sound of your footsteps.

Be sure you have adequate clothing for entry which requires a modest attire; arms and legs must be covered up and no hats. I always bring a little scarf I use to cover my arms if I’m wearing a strappy top. I also carry a pair of leggings in my backpack. This is a great trick for days when it’s too hot to wear pants but you need your legs to be covered.

History

The church is dedicated to Saint Eulalia, the patron saint of Barcelona. Eulalia was a beautiful young woman who once lived in Barcelona. One day, she was attacked by a group of Roman soldiers in the square. She was persecuted for her religious beliefs and stripped naked in front of a horde of people. She was ashamed but in the middle of the summer, it began to snow, covering her naked form.

Unfortunately, this only enraged the Roman soldiers and they threw her in a barrel. They proceeded to stab the barrel with knives and rolled her down the street until she was dead. Today, that same street is also named after her as well. Her sad but powerful story is one which stuck with the people of Barcelona. This church was built in her name, “Baixada de Santa Eulàlia“. Her body was saved by her fellow Christians and is now entombed inside the Cathedral. Very poetic.

First Romanesque Church

The very first romanesque church was built here in 1058. Over the years it fell into ruins. During the Gothic period, the old church was destroyed and w new one built on its foundations. Construction began for the Cathedral of Barcelona in 1298 but wasn’t completed until 1420! That’s over 100 years! The cloisters were the last part of the church to be finished, completed in 1448. In the 19th century, a neo-gothic facade was added. It was designed with the same beautiful gothic elements of the rest of the cathedral so it seamlessly blends in. It’s so rare to find a cathedral this old which hasn’t had multiple renovations and restorations. The fact that most of the church contains art and architecture from the 15th century is such a treat to behold.

The Facade

Looking at this ornate facade, simply dripping in decorations, it’s hard to imagine that it once was nothing more than a plain exterior. Most Catalan churches built at the time featured a flat, nondescription facade. This neo-gothic marvel was built years after the initial construction of the church in the 19th century. It was designed by architect José Oriol Mestres. Mestres wasn’t an immensely popular architect, with only a few other buildings in his repertoire. Perhaps the Cathedral was his greatest accomplishment and once it was completed nothing could compare.

The stained glass windows you can see inside the towers were taken from the Renaissance exterior. The stained glass located on the lower portion of the facade are more modern interpretations. The tracery windows are some of the most ornate examples of neo-gothic design and seem to weave together like ivy or branches or a tree. The rose window, which is typical of other neo-gothic buildings, is here portrayed in a different fashion than most. Instead of a circular rose, with inside petals, the rose window here is designed without the outer portion. The petals of the rose each feature a quarterfoil symbol which spills out above the top of the rose window. This is more of the unique aspects of the neo-gothic design.

Entry Doors

One of my favourite parts of the church is the neo-gothic archivolt above the church’s entry doors. An archivolt is an ornamental band that follows the curve of the underside of an arch. Upon this archivolt are carved, 100 angels flying above your head! In the centre of the two, large wooden entrance doors is a stone sculpture of Jesus, flanked on either side by statues of the 12 apostles. 75 figures in total adorned the exterior of the facade, featuring more saints, kings and famous prophets. While the sculptures of the people are stern and noble, there are also various playful gargoyles and mythical animals which also decorated the stone walls.

Towers

The cathedral is home to three towers, two side towers and a large central cimborio. A cimborio is a classical element of Catalan architecture which is a raised dome or a cupola that acts as a lantern over the crossing of a Gothic cathedral. This cimborio is what allows natural light flood the otherwise darkened interior. A bright interior is one of the most important parts of a Gothic cathedral so the cimborio is a clutch element. The cimborio is crowned by the copper statue of Saint Helena. The family from Girona, who financed most of the cathedral’s construction in the 19th century, were devotees of Saint Helena. The family wanted to be able to see their patron saint at all times, high above the rest of the buildings in Barcelona. 

The two side tower, located over the Doors of Saint Ivoand and the Cloisters, were added in the 19th century. Each tower is adorned with two lateral pinnacles. Every inch of these towers is embellished! Leaves curls around the edges, gargoyles pop out from every corner and angel play musical instruments, a choir over the top of the city.

Doors of Saint Ivo

Before heading right into the church, walk over to the Plaça Sant Iu, on the northern side of the Cathedral. Here, on the steps of the entrance to the Museu Frederic Marès, you can study the ancient Doors of Saint Ivo. This was the primary entrance in the cathedral for over 500 years, located right under the northern bell tower. The doors are named “Saint Ivo” because, in the 15th century, Saint Ivo was the patron saint of Lawyers. Lawyers were one of the main contributors to the cathedral’s construction and as such they demanded their patron saint be honoured.

The doors were built from marble which had been brought all the way from the precious Montjuïc mountains, close to Barcelona. They were built in 1298 and have stood here untouched ever since. On either side of the columns which flank the doors are carvings of knights fighting mythical beasts. These capitals were rescued from the ruins of the ancient Romanesque cathedral. Once they were uncovered the architecture knew they needed to be incorporated in the cathedral somehow. Below these capitals is a large inscription, surrounded in floral carvings. This inscription bears the date of May 1st, 1298, the day work began on the construction of the gothic cathedral.

Interior 

The interior of the cathedral features the gothic design of a unified apse system. The two side aisle and central nave are all connected together but the aisles are distinguished from the nave by having a distinctly lower ceiling. The side naves and ambulator feature monuments and chapels dedicated to over 140 different saints! While we won’t go into all of them here I did try my best to highlight the most important ones.

Entry into the Nave

Upon entering the nave through main front doors, you’ll step directly into the grand nave of the church. You’ll be struck immediately by the warm yellow light which sets the interior all aglow. Most of the blackened parts of the decor are not from age but from hundreds of years of candle soot. Take a seat in one of the pews in front of the choir and look up at the ceiling. Along the vaults of the cathedral are 215 beautifully carved keystones which date back the 14th and 15th century. These once were covered in colours polychrome but after years of deterioration, they are now just plain carved stones.

Right above this area of the nave, we can see the keystone of Saint Martha. Other famous keystones to look out for are Jesus being crucified between the Virgin and Saint John, with the symbols of the sun and the moon. See if you can spot Saint Eulalia with the coat of arms of Blanca of Naples, covered in Fleur-de-lis. Our Lady of Mercy is seen using her cape to shelter a pope. There is a king, a cardinal, a bishop and a canon on one side, and a queen, a nun and three other feminine figure on the other side along with the Annunciation of the Virgin with the Archangel Saint Gabriel. And finally, the eternal father surrounded by angels.

Stained-glass windows

The Cathedral has many Gothic and modern stained-glass windows. The central panels depict the image of the central characters to which the piece is dedicated. The side panels feature richly coloured geometric designs, coats of arms of royal families, trefoil and quatrefoils, and sometimes even architectural features that bring a meta element to the design.

Bishop Ponç de Gualba & Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia,

The stained glass windows throughout the cathedral are from various periods in the building’s history. The earliest ones date from the 14th century and bear the coat of arms of Bishop Ponç de Gualba. These windows depict the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia, Saint Sylvester, Saint Peter and Saint Stephen. Later in the 1400s we see stained glass windows dedicated to Saint Andrew with the coats of arms of Bishop Armengol. The most impressive of the windows, located in the bapistery chapel, was made by artisan Gil de Fontanet in 1495 and depict the Saint Michael archangel and Noli me tangere. The most recent stained glass windows, found on the facade are all from the 19th and 20the century.

It’s amazing to see that even some of the windows which are hundreds of years old, still explode with colour! This cathedral wasn’t about steering away from loud, and expressive designs. Instead it wanted to make its visitors feel powerful emotions upon stepping into this haven of light.

Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto

Just to the right as you enter, you’ll find a darkened chapel. At the back of the room is a golden arch, which seems radiate with light as it is the only real light source in the room. This is the chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto. In the centre of the chapel is a beautiful, black wooden sculpture of Jesus Christ on the cross. Look closely and you might notice that Jesus almost looks like he is leaning to one side. This is because of a very famous legend from Barcelona which took place during the battle of Lepanto, in October 1571.

The Christian states of Europe all worked together in this battle to defend their land against the invading Ottoman empire. At the time, it was not only the largest naval battle in history but also the bloodiest. In just a few hours over 50,000 soldiers lost their lives. The legend goes that the crucifix we see here today was mounted upon one of the ships. As a means of protection for the soldiers. During the battle, a large cannonball shot towards the boat which carried the crucified. The soldiers claim they saw the statue, which was right in the line of fire, dodge the oncoming canon ball. This is why we still see him in this position today, in mid dodge. It’s said that the defending Habsburgs army saw this as a good omen and it was part of what propelled them to victory.

Saint Olegarius

Also located in this chapel, although only partially visible, is the tomb of Saint Olegarius. Saint Olegarius, served as bishop of Barcelona in 1116. Saint Olegarius’s body is actually one of the few saints body’s to be incorrupt. Incorruptibility is a belief that by some divine intervention a human body avoids the normal process of decomposition after death as a sign of the body’s holiness. Inside Saint Olegarius’ tomb, his corpse is still dressed in the regal bishop’s robes he wore in life. Every year, on March 6th, the tomb is opened up and visitors can gaze down into the glass casket and see the unchanged body for themselves.

Saint Chapels

There are over 28 chapels flanking the cathedral’s nave. You can find a list of all the saint chapels here if you’re looking to prayer at one in particular. Each one of the chapels is dripped in golden leaf decorations, magnificent paintings which tell stories of the saint’s life, and powerful sculptures which look out at you from the gates which separate from the holy from the mortal realm.

Chapel of Baptism & Font

Against the wall where the entry doors are located is the Chapel of Baptism. Here you’ll discover the huge marble baptismal font which has been used inside this cathedral since 1433. Behind the font is a small relief carved into the marble altarpiece of Jesus Baptising one of his disciples.

Saint Severus Chapel   

To the left of the pews in the back of the nave, you’ll find the chapel of Saint Severus. If you’re a Harry Potter fan like me, your ears will perk up upon hearing this name, as I had never heard it before those books, but it turns out, it’s a fairly old name. Saint Severus was once the bishop of Barcelona but was murdered for his beliefs in 304. Romans soldiers captured him and tortured him into renouncing his Christianity. When he refused for the final time, he was sentenced to death.

The soldiers hammered nails into his head and yet he would not die. When fellow Christians heard of his persecution they came to his aid but unfortunately, were too late. As they took him down, he died in their arms. In1405, his relics, which were previously housed in Sant Cugat, were moved to Barcelona. It was rumoured that these relics helped cure King Martin I of gangrene in his leg! You can see a depiction this event in the top right corner.

Choirstalls

In front of the first set of pews in the nave is the choirstalls. Guarding the entrance to the stall is a great stone wall with stunning carved reliefs. The depictions on the relief tell the story of Saint Eulalia and her eventual death. In between these extremely gruesome and powerful carvings are niches with statues of Catalan saints.

Order of the Golden Fleece

The interior of the choir stall is dedicated to the knights of the Order of the Golden Fleece. The order was founded to defend the Roman Catholic religion and to uphold the usages of chivalry. The order settled disputes, crimes and the actions of the knights of the order. If a knight was thought to have committed an offence or rebelled, they were brought to trial among their peers and not to the public justice.

The choirstall’s design is thought to be the finest example of Gothic Catalan architecture. To study the ornate canopies and pinnacles, walk around the exterior of the choir before heading inside. The walls surrounding the choir are decorated in Doric columns and crowned with an ornate balustrade.

Knights of the Order of the Golden Fleece

During the first few years of the Order of the Golden Fleece there were only 20 knights but as the years went on it expanded to over 60 members. Today you can find the coats-of-arms of the knights painted onto the various seat backs inside the choirstall. Most of these were painted in the 16th century although the older looking ones were made as far back as the 14th and 15th centuries. Even each of the chairs themselves has these gorgeous little carvings of animals and minature statues on the seats. No aspect of the choirstalls was left unembellished. Inside the choir, you’ll find a wonderfully carved wooden pulpit made by Pedro Çanglada in 1403.

Chapel of Raymond of Pennafort 

On the South wall, opposite the choir stalls, you’ll find the Chapel of Raymond of Pennafort. Raymond, a strange name for a saint, is the patron saint of Catalan lawyers. One of the best parts of visiting this cathedral is learning all about the Catalan saints you won’t hear about anywhere else in the world! Raymond studied law at the University of Bologna and was one of the chief advisors to the Pope and King James I of Catalonia and Aragon. One of his miracles was said to be sailing from Sóller to Barcelona on nothing but a simple blanket!

Saint Pacian Chapel

Continuing along the south wall, you’ll come to the Chapel of Saint Pacian. Saint Pacian was bishop of Barcelona during the second half of the 4th century. He is highly regarded as one of the founding father’s of the church in Barcelona. The altarpiece inside the chapel is a baroque masterpiece made by sculptor Joan Roig from 1688. It depicts various scenes from the life of Saint Pacian and Saint Ignatius of Loyola.

The Organ

The fantastically carved organ, which hangs above the doors of Saint Ivo is truly the definition of “heavenly”. Built in 1539, the organ is designed in high baroque style. Cherubs top the pipes and Saints faces reveal themselves from the flat wooden facade.

Crypt of Saint Eulalia

Below the high alter, a set of stairs descends into the ground where you’re met with a pair of iron gates. Behind these gates, you can see a large stone tomb topped with a beautiful statue of a young woman. This is the crypt of Saint Eulalia. Her sarcophagus is adorned in gothic, polychromed alabaster and inside rest her remains. The carvings around the tomb depict the story of her martyrdom after leaving her home of Sarria at the age of 13. The scenes of her martyrdom are quite affecting and powerful, and not for the faint of heart. They show her being whipped by soldiers, and how they used a hook to tear the flesh off her body when she was nailed to the cross. Pretty gruesome, lucky you can’t see it up close really.

The carvings also show how her remains were moved to the cathedral from the Basilica of Santa María. Above the tomb, in the centre of the room, we have a statue of the Virgin Mary. On either side of her are four angels holding candles sticks. This tomb is a new incarnation from the 13th century but right behind it you can still see a piece of brokem marble from the original one. This tomb was made in 878!

High Altar

Above the tomb of Eulalia, we have the High Altar. The Altar is made of pure white marble and measures over three feet long. Above the altar hangs a grand crucifix, held up by six triumphant angels.

Ambulatory

At the east end of the cathedral, we find the ambulatory with its nine radiating chapels. These chapels are located behind high altar, raised above the crypt of Saint Eulalia below. The nine chapels located in the ambulatory are crowned with tall, glowing stained glass windows. This allows for the most heavenly, colourful light to pour over the high altar.

Rooftop

To access the roof, head towards the tower on the northern side of the cathedral. From here you take a lift to the top (you need a paid ticket) where you have a 360-degree view of the city.

The rooftop gets you up close to the various gargoyles and mythical stone creatures who call the roof their home. If you’re here anytime during the lunch hour you might have the chance to hear the bells ring. While you can hear these bells all over the city there is something so overwhelmingly awesome about hearing them so close.

Cloisters

To access the cloisters, you pass under a large white marble door. This is said to be a recovered piece from the original Romanesque cathedral built on the site in 1046. The archivolts here are decorated with geometric patterns but framed in gothic pediments.

The reliefs sculpted into the pillars of the Cloister’s arches show scenes from the Old Testament and from a legend about the Holy Cross. The keystones set into the vault depict scenes from the New Testament.

Each out of outdoor chapels here was initially dedicated to the patron saint of an institution or guild. They were built here under the protection of a specific family. Look on the floors and you can see markings of these guilds. the one below depicts a pair of scissors to represents the cloth merchants guild.

Ou com Balla

In the center of the Cloister is a garden with palm trees, magnolias, an orange tree and a fountain dating from the mid-15th century. The traditional “ou com balla” (the dancing egg) takes place right here each year for the celebration of Corpus Christi. The dancing egg was a trick the church’s acolytes would play where they would empty an egg of its insiders, then fill it with wax and seal the small hole. They could then place the egg atop the fountain’s jet and the egg would start turning without falling, and thus “dances.” 

Outside along the walls of the cloister are also several tombs embedded into the walls of the cathedral. These are of important people in the history of Barcelona such as the bronze tomb of Antoni Tallander, the royal jester, as identified by the bels that hang from his belt. There is also the tomb of the Sanllehy family  which is marked by the scenes of the burial of Christ.

Geese

In the stone confines of the cloister you might be surprised to find 13 white geese wandering around like they own the place. There are always only 13 geese, one for each of the year’s Saint Eulalia lived. They provide a sunny addition to the otherwise silent cathedral.

Capella de Santa Llúcia

At the Southwest corner of the Closters we find the quiant Romanesque chapel, built in 1257, dedicated to Santa Llúcia. Santa Llúcia is the patron saint of the blind and on December 13th, her saint’s day, you’ll see large numbers of blind people who come to pray at her chapel. Inside the chapel, you can see two ornate sepulchres containing the remains of Bishop Arnau of Gurb (from the 13th century) and Canon Francesc of Santa Coloma (from the 14th century).

This brings us to the end of the tour. Hopefully, you enjoyed exploring it as much as me and learned a little something about Catalan history along the way! Let me know what your favourite part of the Cathedral was or anything else you learned about this amazing place along the way!

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of the Barcelona Cathedral first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

If you’ve just arrived and wanted something a little more laid back and relaxing, try out this self-guided walking tour of La Condesa. You can easily spend the entire day following this path and making your own stops along the way.

Guided Tour of La Condesa

1. Accessibility
2. La Condesa History
3. Is La Condesa Safe?
4. Map of Walking Tour
5. Chiquitito Café
6. La Esquina del Chilaquiles
7. Michoacan Market
8. García Madero
9. Avenida Mazatlan 
10. Nevería Roxy
11. Los Condesa
12. Lardo
13. Avenida Veracruz
14. Hotel Condesa DF
15. Archivos Plutarco Elías Calles
16. Parque España
17. Avenida Ámsterdam
18. Plaza Citlaltepec
19. Parque México
20. Fuente de Los Cántaros 
21. Lindbergh Open Air Theater
22. Churrería El Moro
23. Art Deco Architecture
24. Edificio Rosa
25. The Edificio San Martín
26. The Basurto Building
27. Edificio Tehuacan
28. Plaza Popocatépetl

Accessibility

This walking tour isn’t very strenuous, there are no uphills to power through and the distance is pretty minimal in total. For anyone who gets tired and there are plenty of places to stop and rest along the way since even the fittest of us can suffer the effects of Mexico City’s elevation. If you’re in a wheelchair or have a mobility aid, the sidewalks of La Condesa are mostly very wide and easy to navigate. Certain areas of the sidewalk were severely damaged by the earthquake but I’ve done my best to make a map of the best sidewalks to go through which have been repaired or restored.

La Condesa History

La Condesa is a small neighbourhood about 5 km outside the city centre. The word “Condesa” means “countess” as this neighbourhood was named after María Magdalena Dávalos de Bracamontes y Orozco, the Countess of Miravalle. The Countess bought a huge expanse of land when she moved to Mexico City. This was her little empire. The area was purchased from a wealthy family, whose last descendants had died. With no children to inherit the land, the Countess was able to buy it all up at a good price. The Countess owned a large manor house to the westernmost point in the city. Today, this old house has been converted into the Russian Embassy. Since the Embassy is highly protected, you can’t really see much of it from the street, so it’s not worth the trek to the west side of town to try to see it.

The Countess rented the land and constructed apartment complexes throughout the new colony. These were specifically geared towards the upper class of Mexico City. The neighbourhood was wealthy enough to afford the best landscape architects and city planners. They made it their goal to create wide, open streets, tree-lined avenues and large, sumptuous parks. Condesa is often called the “lungs” of the city. There are more trees located in this borough than collectively across the rest of the city.

20th Century La Condesa

In the early 20th century, Condesa continued to grow and became a popular place for artists to live. Agustín Lara, a composer of romantic ballads, flamenco dancer Pilar Rioja and painter Juan Soriano all, lived in Condesa. In addition to these artists, many cinema stars of the 40s and 50s also moved into the neighbourhood. Walking along the streets of La Condesa in the 50s was like spotting the whos who of Mexican Hollywood elite.

Mexico City Earthquake

The 1985 Mexico City earthquake had a devastating impact on La Condesa. You can still see some of the damage to this day, particularly along the sidewalks on many unused side streets. Many of the people who lived here couldn’t afford to repair their houses, so some were left abandoned. Other families couldn’t afford to move, so they had to remain living in this destruction zone. The rich and elite of the neighbourhood all moved out to Polanco, which is now the Beverly Hills of Mexico City.

The once affluent neighbourhood was reduced to rubble, and for years it remained one of the cheapest places to live. But cheap rent eventually attracted a younger generation of people to live in the area. They came with ambitions to rise up and revitalize the area. Because no one could afford to tear down old buildings, Condesa’s historic houses are left untouched. Therefore precious art deco and midcentury designs are happily still on display today.

Trendy and bohemian restaurants started to pop up in La Condesa due to the inexpensive real estate. And they were much needed to feed this emerging population. With new bars and restaurants, came more people. Condesa’s restaurants were the first in the city to offer outdoor seating along the sidewalks. Since La Condesa’s sidewalks were designed to be wide and comfortable, there was plenty of room to set up tables along the street. This created an outdoor dining room feeling, of everyone eating together in the neighbourhood. Still today, La Condesa is the hottest spot in the city to find trendy restaurants and chic cafes.

Street Art in Condesa

Urban artists found the empty corners of Condesa to be a blank canvas for their art, and even today, despite the rise of urbanization and gentrification, some of the city’s best street artist’s work can be found along these streets. Unlike simple graffiti tags, these masterpieces are truly spectacular works of art. In addition to being beautiful decorations for the neighbourhood, they also draw in street art tours and curious tourists.

Is La Condesa Safe?

When we booked our first trip to Mexico City, safety was my primary focus when booking a hotel. I heard that of all the neighbourhoods in Mexico City, La Condesa had one of the lowest crime rates while still being near all the big sights. I felt completely comfortable walking alone at night in this area without a second thought, and I’m not one of the bravest people. Things can happen anywhere in the world, that’s for sure, so it’s always good to keep a level head and be aware of your surroundings. But overall, I feel like the hype over Mexico City being dangerous is overblown in the media.

Map of Walking Tour

Chiquitito Café

Start your day with a coffee from Chiquitito Café. The cafe can be found at #232 Alfonso Reyes. Just west of Alfonso Reyes and Aguascalientes street. The cafe opens early in the morning, around 7:30 am. A lot of places in Mexico City don’t open till later, and if you’re like me you want to get out bright and early. This cafe is tiny, but you’ll know where it is immediately by the line out the door.

Their coffee is unbelievably smooth. I’m a bit of a coffee baby and always order a latte or cappuccino and sneak some sugar into it. But at Chiquitito Cage, no sugar was needed, the coffee was just that good. The tables out on the street are perfect for people watching. Street sweepers are cleaning the fallen leaves, tamales sellers are out on their bikes, and school children are off hand in hand with their parents. A wonderfully normal slice of life in Mexican City.

La Esquina del Chilaquiles

After a shot of coffee to wake you up, head over to the corner of Alfonso Reyes and Tamaulipas street. Here you’ll find one of the most delicious street food breakfast options in the entire city. Even before this stands opens, there is a line down the street of locals waiting for this incredible treat; torta de chilaquiles. You NEED to get here early to make sure you don’t miss out on this iconic Condesa treat. Torta de Chilaquiles is a unique Mexican breakfast sandwich. “Chilaquiles” is a Nahuatl word, which means “bathed in chilli.”

This shop has been serving the neighbourhood since 1950 and has been run by generations of the same family. Their torta is made with a large, fresh french roll, as big your forearm. The roll is split open and filled with refried black beans, two types of meat, salsa, and fried corn chips. Finally, it’s finished off with a crumbling of cojita cheese and fresh cream. The entire monstrous sandwich costs only 35 pesos ($1.80 USD)! And you’ll be full for hours! If you don’t have a big appetite you can split it between two or three people.

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Michoacan Market

If you’re interested in visiting a local marketplace, then head up the street to the Michoacán Market. Head northeast on Avenue Tamaulipas for three blocks. Just past Avenue Vicente Suárez you’ll find the market on the corner of Tamaulipas and Avenue Michoacán. The Michoacán Market was built in 1946 and has an amazing Functionalist architectural design. The market is located at the intersection of three of the most important streets in Condesa. This made the marketplace the de facto heart of Condesa. Inside there are twenty-seven different vendors selling everything from fruits and veggies to slow-cooked meals and freshly baked tortillas.

García Madero

Head west for about two blocks on Avenue Michoacán toward Avenue Vicente Suárez. The smell of freshly baked bread will simply draw you into this shop. García Madero Bakery sells small batches of baked sweets and bread right out of this little shop. Once their goods are sold out, the shop closes down, so don’t rely on the official business hours for your chance to taste these amazing baked goods. The owner of the shop was once a lawyer and quit his job to follow his passion for baking. And from his huge popularity, it looks like it has more than paid off. Try their concha, a classic Mexican sweet bread that is recognizable by its seashell textured top. But if you visit in the Spring, try the chocolate-dipped croissants with edible pansy flowers. Spectacular to eat as well as to look at!

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Avenida Mazatlan 

With your delicious sweet bread in hand, wander west across Avenida Vicente Suárez for four blocks until you reach Avenida Mazatlan. The Avenida Mazatlán is a wide stretch of roads with a gorgeous central pedestrian walkway. This walkway is flanked by enormous trees and plants of all kinds. Walking beneath this canopy makes you feel like you’re in a tropical dream. Even on the hottest day, the shade beneath these trees is so refreshing.

The Avenida Mazatlan is full of amazing architectural sights. This street was one of the first where the new Condesa colony expanded, and the buildings along the street represent the styles of architecture as the neighbourhood began to grow. You’ll see designs like neocolonial, functionalist, eclectic and rationalist styles, but especially art deco. There are over 250 buildings along this one street, which are designated as artistic value to the neighbourhood. 

Nevería Roxy

Nevería Roxy can be found just a block north at the intersection of Fernando Montes de Oca and Avenida Mazatlan. This is a neighbourhood establishment that has been serving up ice cream to the community since 1946. In the 50s it was one of the most happening places where famous bullfighters, businessmen, cattlemen and fans would come after the bullfights from the nearby Plaza de Toros Condesa. The ice cream parlour still has the retro charm of the original shop, and although machines and technology have changed, the recipes have not. You can get traditional flavours as well as some exotic Mexican fruit flavoured ones as well. Perfect for a hot day!

Los Condesa

Head northwest on Avenida Mazatlan toward Juan de la Barrera for about three blocks. Just past Juan de la Barrera you’ll see an old white and green painted apartment complex. This series of apartments is called “Los Condesa,” and were the first luxury apartments to be built on the block in 1911. These beautiful apartments drew other wealthy people into the area. They were ostensibly the buildings that founded the neighbourhood. Today the waiting list to live in these apartments, despite their old age, is incredibly long. They are considered historical, and the prestige of living there is quite high.

Lardo

Walk just one block north, on the corner of Avenida Mazatlan and Veracruz street, and you’ll find one of the cutest restaurants in the city. Lardo is a trendy brunch and lunch spot that has some of the very best huevos rancheros in the city! It’s a fantastic blend of traditional ingredients and modern menu items. The hipster vibe inside blends the historical aspects of old Mexico City with the vibrant new ideas and sensibilities which the younger generations are bringing to restaurants and cafes in these old neighbourhoods.

Avenida Veracruz

Continuing on our walking tour, we set out to stroll down Veracruz street. We will be walking east on Avenue Veracruz toward Agustín Melgar for three blocks. A great way to work off that filling lunch! This street is dotted with fantastical old mansions decorated in vibrant colours. These old houses are covered in rich ornamentations and fine ironwork. The area was severely damaged during the 1985 earthquake, and despite the wealth of many of these houses, there is still the occasional abandoned house which displays the damage of that immense quake.

Hotel Condesa DF

At the end of Veracruz Street, just before the park, make a stop at the Hotel Condesa DF. You’ll recognize it right away from their antique, burgundy car, which sits out front. This building is a gorgeous, albeit pretty pricey, hotel, but it was originally built as a great manor house. The architect designed the house in the French neoclassical style in 1928. The columns along the corners of the building are my favourite little detail, as they are covered in ornate carvings. If you’d like to stop in for a drink, the rooftop terrace has a lovely bar with views of the nearby park.

Archivos Plutarco Elías Calles

Walk around the back of Hotel DF, along Guadalajara street to house #104. This is the Archivos Plutarco Elías Calles. This building is another incredible example of Mexican neo-gothic architecture. The mansion was originally designed for the personal secretary to President Álvaro Obregón. The neo-gothic style of architecture was popularized by the great Metropolitan Cathedral in the Zocalo. This style featured pointed arches, stone rosettes, and large stained glass windows. All of which can be seen here. Today this house has been turned into a temporary restaurant but hopefully that becomes a permanent feature so everyone can enjoy the stunning garden inside.

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Parque España

Walk across the street, you’ll find the little brother park to the opulent Parque Mexico, Parque España. Parque España was built in 1921 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the end of the Mexican War of Independence. In the centre of the park, is a great blue abstract sculpture, commemorating Lázaro Cárdenas. Cárdenas was the President of Mexico between 1934 and 1940 and has been revered as “the greatest constructive radical of the Mexican Revolution.” He stands like a beacon in the park, still overseeing his people.

Avenida Ámsterdam

Walk east across the park. You’ll pop out on the other side, on Avenue Nuevo León which runs north/south. Make your way to the street running east/west called Avenue Parras. Head east along this street for just one blocks and you’ll arrive onto Avenida Ámsterdam. The Avenida Ámsterdam is a huge oval road which encircles the grande Parque México. The central walkways lined in great trees are some of the lushest pedestrian avenues anywhere in the city. Because this avenue is mainly residential and seems hidden away from the busy main roads, it’s also one of the most peaceful places in a city. Despite being one of the most populated cities in the world, this area of town feels like you’re in the middle of nowhere.

The Race Track

We’re going to walk south along the ring road for four blocks. The circular aspect of the road was not simply a stylish design. It was for a practical purpose as the road was initially designed for racing. President Diaz inaugurated the race track in 1910. The track hosted both automobile and horse racing, both of which were at the height of their popularity in the early 20th century. Racing was for the elite of Mexican high society as the money they poured into this area can still be seen today.

During the 1920s, in the height of the art deco trend, many manor homes and mansions were built around the racetrack. Even the sidestreets themselves were given the artistic treatment with lamposts and street furniture being designed right into the roadway. This way the entire street looked bespoke. These lamposts and outdoor furniture are still around today for you to sit and chat on while waiting for the light to change. Their fabulous blue tiles are still as vibrant as the day they were installed.

Plaza Citlaltepec

At the southernmost point of the Avenida Ámsterdam is the Plaza Citlaltepec. This small parkette, with a central fountain, might not be very historically famous but it’s my favourite little area of the city. On all sides of the roundabout, there are adorable cafes and restaurants. A kind fruit vendor is always parked on the Avenida Ámsterdam on the west side of the fountain, and I love stopping in there to get a freshly cut mango with spicy chilli and lime! On the north side of the roundabout is a brightly painted, purple hotel which is awesome to marvel at even from the outside. It’s just such a charming slice of Mexico City, and I love coming here.

Parque México

From the park, head north up Citlaltépetl street, for one block, to the southeast corner of the great Parque México. I adore this park. Coming here in the afternoon means the park is absolutely bursting with excitement. Hundreds of dogs are out for their afternoon walk, kids are playing in the large square and lots of locals and tourists are relaxing under the enormity of shade the park provides. Especially during the Jacaranda season, this park is one of the most beautiful places in the city.

They call this park the lungs of the city since there are so many trees here trying to filter out all the city’s pollution. Hereunder these trees are where people in some areas of the city without green space come to “convalesce.”

Instead of being designed based on a rigid, street like a plan, this park was inspired by the great gardens of European palaces. Ponds and walkways weave and sway throughout the nine hectares of parkland. Organic forms are used throughout, and even the benches are designed to look like they are merely a few branches placed together to form a sitting area.

Flora and Fauna

Throughout the park, you’ll see Lebanese cypress, mimosas, and palms. There is also a variety of exotic flora such as bamboo and brightly coloured flowers. Some of these plants were native to the land when the park was constructed, and new varieties were added to make it look as natural as possible. They never wanted anything to feel too purposeful, just natural.

Fuente de Los Cántaros 

Wander north through the first section of the park until you come to Avenue Michoacán, which bisects the park. On the other side of this street, greeting you with a sly smile is the Fuente de Los Cántaros. Fuente de Los Cántaros means fountain of the jugs, and although the indigenous women in the centre is holding two water jugs, you might get an idea why the fountain was nicknamed this for a different reason. The woman who modelled for the statue was Luz Jiménez, who also modelled for Diego Rivera, which is why her face might look so familiar.

Lindbergh Open Air Theater

Behind the fountain, is the enormous Lindbergh Open Air Theater. There has never been a single time I’ve visited here when there weren’t kids out playing soccer in this huge arena. It is never devoid of life. The arena was named after Lindbergh, the first man to make a transatlantic flight. The architect hoped to inspire Mexico City’s youth to reach for the sky just as Lindbergh did! In the centre of the theatre are five geometric pillars designed in the art deco style. On either side of the stage area are two, albeit ageing, frescoes. The surrounding pergola provides shade and the vibrant bougainvillea flowers, which creep over the rooftop, create the most fantastical canopy.

Churrería El Moro

Wander around the park, eating from the various street food stalls and enjoying a short rest under the gorgeous shady trees. If you’d rather avoid street food (although I highly recommend trying it) you can head to Churrería El Moro located just east of the Parque Mexico on Avenue Mexico and Avenue Michoacán. Here you’ll be able to sample a slice of true Mexican history!

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The churro was a dessert brought over by the Spanish, but dipping it inside a cup of hot, thick chocolate sauce, was the way in which the Mexicans made the dish their own! Churrería El Moro is now a chain of churro shops, but the original opened in 1935. Today, the grandchildren of the original owner have opened branches all over Mexico City. The Churrería El Moro in Condesa has comfy rocking chairs and benches to relax on outside, but if the restaurant is full, take your snacks over to the park to enjoy under the warm moonlight in the Lindbergh Open Air Theater. The best place to end the night!

Art Deco Architecture

Once restored, get ready to make your way north along Avenue Mexico. Avenue Mexico was one of the most prestigious real estate spots in the entire city, as the houses along this road overlooked the park. The majority of these buildings were built throughout the 1920s to 40s and maintained a highly stylized art deco theme throughout. Even some of the buildings which are being restored to be transformed into hotels are working hard to maintain their exterior design as the retro look is what draws so many people to this area.

Edificio Rosa

Walking north along Avenue Mexico for half a block to the Edificio-Rosa at #147. The Edificio-Rosa building is worth a stop to see the blush-painted exterior juxtaposed with black wrought iron window bars. The colour combo is truly fabulous. But what I love even more is the incredible typography of the building’s name, spelled out on the exterior.

The Edificio San Martín

Continue north, crossing Teotihuacan Street find #167 Avenue Mexico. This amazing structure is the San Martín Building, designed by Ernesto Buenrostro. The most interesting aspect of this 1930s design is the name of the building, which is cut out into the facade of the exterior! The lobby of the building still has so many of those art deco tiles and details, so if you can get a peek inside without disturbing the doorman, you should try to get a lookie!

The Basurto Building

Continue walking north, crossing Avenue Sonora, where you’ll find the Basurto Building at #187 Avenue Mexico. The Basurto Building is another iconic Bauhaus-style building that is notable mostly for its straights lines, which bend and weave into curving waves. It was designed by architect Francisco J. Serrano in 1945. The building was severely damaged in the 1985 earthquake, but restoration efforts were put underway in recent years to restore this architectural gem!

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Edificio Tehuacan

Just across the street at #188 is the Tehuacán Building. This is probably my favourite of all the art deco structures in this area. It was built in 1931 and was designed bu the same man who made the San Martín Building, Ernesto Buenrostro. What makes Buenrostro so interesting was that he was a Mexican architect who used elements from the art deco styles which were so pervasive around the world but embued in those designs, traditional Mexican elements. On the front of the exterior, blended in with the geometric elements of the architecture are terra-cotta coloured carvings from ancient Aztec culture.

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Plaza Popocatépetl

Walking one more block north along Avenue Mexico, you come to a roundabout, marked with a large fountain. This is the Plaza Popocatépetl. The fountain is named after Popocatépetl, a large volcano in central Mexico. The art deco Popocatépetl fountain was designed in 1927. This fountain is one of my favourites, I love the traditional, Mexican tile works which add texture and interest to the white dome in the centre of the fountain. This is the final point on the tour and a great place to take a rest and reflect on all we saw along the way!

La Condesa is my favourite neighbourhood in the city, and I’d honestly be happy never leaving these streets the entire time, that’s just how amazing this place is. Although following this tour is a great introduction, the best part of La Condesa is exploring hidden streets and finding new amazing restaurants and boutiques for yourself along the way! Please share here your favourite part of La Condesa or let me know where you like to stay when in Mexico City!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

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Since the dawn of time, how we house, dispose and care for our dead reflects the kind of society, culture and people that lived during that specific period. While not all of us may love art, food or sports, what we all have in common is that we will all die. Cemeteries are places where people of all kinds can come together for eternity.

Visiting a cemetery is also a great chance to get outside the busy city, see some nature, be awed at artful and ornate tombstones and even check out where a famous person or two are buried. So next time you’re travelling, consider going to a cemetery and taking a quiet wander. Do be as respectful as possible. See if any signs are asking you not to take pictures, walk your dog, or speak loudly. If you see someone morning their loved one, give them their space. Otherwise, unless marked, cemeteries are open to the public and are a great, AND FREE, way to spend the day. While almost all cemeteries have their unique touch, here are some of the most beautiful cemeteries worldwide to visit.

Table Of Contents

1. #1. Chichicastenango, Guatemala
2. #2. Merry Cemetery, Săpânţa, Romania
3. #3. Waverley Cemetery, Australia
4. #4. Okunoin Cemetery, Japan
5. #5. Highgate Cemetery, London
6. #6. La Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Argentina
7. #7. Punta Arenas Cemetery, Chile
8. #8. Hollywood Forever Cemetery, Los Angeles, USA
9. #9. Père Lachaise, Paris
10. #10. Bonaventure Savannah, Georgia
11. #11. Mount of Olives, Jerusalem
12. #12. Panteón de Dolores
13. #13. South Park Street Cemetery in Kolkata, India
14. #14. Old Jewish Cemetery in Prague
15. #15. Milan Monumental Cemetery, Italy
16. #16. St. Andrews Graveyard, Scotland

#1. Chichicastenango, Guatemala

Although your immediate vision of a cemetery might be dull and dreary, the Chichicastenango in Guatemala is an explosion of colour! Upon a hillside, away from the hustle and bustle of tourists, is a cemetery that celebrates the afterlife instead of shying away from it, as is the Mayan tradition. Most townspeople here are indigenous, and preserving their rituals and culture is of the utmost importance. 

Different shades on the tombs symbolize what roles each of these people played or reflect a powerful aspect of their personality. White represents purity; turquoise is reserved for mothers, and grandfathers are marked with bright yellow, representing the golden sun’s protective quality. Looking across this rainbow of tombs, you can imagine the kinds of people laid to rest here and what they mean to the living.

#2. Merry Cemetery, Săpânţa, Romania

Following along the tradition of cemeteries which are bright and cheery, we find ourselves in the Romanian Countryside. Appropriately enough this place’s name is Merry Cemetery. Unlike, Chichicastenango, Merry has become a HUGE tourist destination. People come from all over to admire the hundreds of brilliant blue crosses. Intricate carvings of scenes from the dead person’s life or portraits of the deceased mark each stone. Each gravestone is also etched with a special verse referencing a defining characteristic or story from the life of the deceased. These can be camp and cute or surprisingly honest. These verses are about womanizing, drinking, cheating and even a few choice mother-in-law jokes.

You’ll be surprised to know that the same carpenter, Stan Ioan Pătraş, carved almost all the grave markers here, starting his first in 1935. Today, over 800 of these markers stand in the cemetery. After Pătraş passed, his apprentice Dumitu Pop took over and continued creating these comedic and colourful crosses. Sometimes I think we worship the dead after their passing, so much so that they become infallible and almost inhuman. But these brutally honest carvings reflect that these people were real, just like everyone else. It somehow makes their death more tangible and relatable to strangers passing by. 

#3. Waverley Cemetery, Australia

Waverley Cemetery, atop Bronte Cliffs in Syndey, Australia, is one of the most peaceful places to rest, both for the living and the dead. Sitting across from the South Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea is this picturesque hillside cemetery. Opened in 1877, this cemetery contains some of Australia’s most stunning Victorian and Edwardian-designed tombs. Influential Australians like writer Dorothea Mackellar and poet Henry Lawson can be found here. Over 200 veterans are also laid to rest at Waverley, along with 11 Civil War soldiers who moved to Australia after the horrors they saw during the war back in the US. The cemetery was used for the film The Great Gatsby by Baz Lurhman, which doubled for a cemetery on Long Island. 

When you enter through the front gates, take a moment to study them. They are a memorial to the residents of the area who died during World War I and World War II. Looking at these tombstones is a glimpse into the masonry styles of the period. Being so far away from the rest of the world, Australians have a unique sensibility in their architecture and design. A broken telephone of elements coming from Europe, the Americas and Asia. It’s a playful combination of many styles and is unmissable for those interested in dazzling views and gorgeous designs.

#4. Okunoin Cemetery, Japan

Okunoin Cemetery is the largest cemetery in Japan, but it’s not just its size that makes it so impressive. 200,000 tombstones cover the two kilometres of lush forest that house the graves. Giant cedar trees seem to reach up to the heavens and provide an almost meditative silence for the visitors.

The tombstones throughout the cemetery are known for their distinctive carvings dedicated to the dead housed beneath. You’ll find giant coffee cups in honour of a corporation’s CEO, a pufferfish to acknowledge the chef who died cooking it and even a pile of termites in celebration of a pesticide company’s owner. It might seem strange, but the banality of life is sometimes an important thing to remember. Since the forest is left to its own devices, bright green moss has overtaken many graves. The stones now look like they are part of the forest themselves.

In the middle of the cemetery lies Kobo Daishi‘s mausoleum, the founder of Shingon Buddhism and a sacred pilgrimage spot for Buddhists worldwide. Walking inside the mausoleum, you come upon 10,000 illuminated lanterns glowing inside. Each one is in dedication to someone who has passed. It feels like a dream and not a ghastly experience like you would expect from a cemetery. Surrounded by all these lights, you feel like you can’t help but smile, thinking of each of these lights as a representation of our eternal love for each other. Life may come to an end, but your memory carries on.

#5. Highgate Cemetery, London

Wandering the Highgate Cemetery in London, filled with its high-gothic, Victorian tombstones, feels like stepping back in time. In the 1830s, church cemeteries were overflowing. They became a health hazard, so the city of London authorized the building of seven new cemeteries, the largest and most opulent being Highgate. Over the years, more than 170,000 people have been interred here, and it even houses a few famous occupants such as Karl Marx, novelist George Eliot and the parents of Charles Dickens.

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The cemetery’s landscaping has been left to nature, and the wildness provides an eerie, almost undiscovered feeling to the graveyard. Despite feeling untouched, it became a popular destination for tourists, and now the cemetery is only viewable by guided tour. During peak months, these tours require a reservation in advance, so don’t hesitate to book if you don’t want to miss it. Myths and legends regarding the cemetery are plentiful. One of the most prominent is the existence of the Highgate Vampire! The rumours were so persistent that British Psychic and Occult Society officially investigated the phenomenon. A tale the tour guides love to tell!

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#6. La Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Originally, in 1732, La Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires was a modest burial ground outside the church of Our Lady of Pilar run by the monks of the Order of the Recoletos. When the order disbanded in the 1820s, the land was given over the city and turned into a public cemetery. The wealthy population of Buenos Aires began buying up plots and began designing opulent mausoleums. Each one is trying to outdo the next. Soon, it was one of the most popular spots to be buried, and now there are over 4,691 above-ground vaults across over 5.5 hectares of land.

One of the things that makes this cemetery so magnificent is the care people took in both the design of the cemetery and the tombs. The cemetery replicated city blocks and was filled in with lush tree-lined walkways. The mausoleums are intricate marble masterpieces made in all different architectural styles, from Art Deco to Baroque. The most notable grave here is the tomb of Eva Peron, the wife of the president of Argentina who, much like Princess Diana, was adored by her people. Her enormous black granite tomb is still visited today by the people who loved her or still want to thank her for her impact on the country.

#7. Punta Arenas Cemetery, Chile

The Punta Arenas Cemetery is well known as a popular tourist attraction mainly due to its iconic Cypress Trees. Cypress trees have long been an element of classic cemeteries since, in greek mythology, the cypress tree is associated with death, the underworld and eternity. The trees in the Punta Arenas are intricately trimmed, like little fingers sticking out of the ground. They laced their way around the pathways which lead you through the delightful cemetery.

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The other iconic element that makes this place so popular is the legends surrounding it. The cemetery is actually “officially” called the Cementerio Municipal Sara Braun, named after Sara Braun, one of the richest women in Patagonia and who donated an enormous stone gateway in 1919 to the cemetery. This iconic piece of architecture is a symbol of Chilean architecture.

After she died, she said no one would ever pass through the gate again. They sealed the gate to honour her wishes, and guests must now enter through a side entrance. It is also rumoured that her body is taken out of her tomb every year on the anniversary of her death, and her family goes to brush her hair and put a fresh coat of makeup on her face. People come from all over to watch to see if the rumours are true, but alas, no one has yet to witness the event.

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#8. Hollywood Forever Cemetery, Los Angeles, USA

This cemetery is the final resting place of many Hollywood legends, including Rudolph Valentino, Douglas Fairbanks, and Johnny Ramone. With its lush landscaping, beautiful mausoleums, and stunning views of the Hollywood Hills, Hollywood Forever is a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles.

#9. Père Lachaise, Paris

Père Lachaise Cemetery is a great example of the power of celebrity. It is one of the most picturesque cemeteries in the world and is also home to some very notable people. The cemetery is over 44 hectares and contains a staggering one million bodies! The cobblestone walkways, sophisticated mausoleums, and tree-lined paths all contribute to the overwhelming gothic beauty of this cemetery.

Over 3 million visitors walk the cemetery pathways every year, mostly to visit the famous gravestones and mausoleums that can be found within. This draw that even the dead can bring was part of the cemetery’s design. With the influx of people living (and subsequently dying) in Paris, local church graveyards began to overflow.

In the 1800s, various larger cemeteries were built on the outreaches of town. But they were seen as too far away and were not blessed by any church. Therefore, many God-fearing Catholics wouldn’t be seen dead (quite literally) being interred here. Two years after being built, only 33 people had been buried here. But the owner of the property had a plan. He organized to have the remains of Jean de La Fontaine and Molière to Père Lachaise to help increase its reputation and popularity. He immediately saw people coming from far and wide requesting to be buried alongside their favourite celebrity.

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Celebrity Graves

Today, you can see more celebrity graves, including Jim Morrison. He is one of the most popular tombs visited, and guests often leave tokens of love behind for him. The musician Chopin is also interred here, and his grave is adorned by a statue of a beautiful muse holding a lyre. Oscar Wilde‘s grave, sculpted by Jacob Epstein, is a modern piece in the shape of a Sphinx flying through the air. Its mouth, slightly pursed, was often interpreted as if it was reaching out for a kiss and leading visitors to lean in and kiss the stone. So many people were kissing the stone that they began to worry about its preservation. Now, a modern plastic barrier separates visitors from the original stone. Now, they just kiss the plastic instead.

#10. Bonaventure Savannah, Georgia

Bonaventure is best known for its iconic Southern Gothic architecture and uncannily eerie natural surroundings. Snarled oak trees with cobweb-like moss pour over all the tombstones throughout the 19th-century graveyard. The cemetery remained unknown until it was the scene on the cover of the popular novel Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. The hauntingly beautiful sculptures atop the gravestones are one of the reasons the cemetery has had such a draw from artists, poets and writers.

The Little Gracie Watson statue is one of the most iconic images from the cemetery. Little Gracie was born in 1883 but died only 6 years later from pneumonia. At the time of her death, sculptor John Walz had just relocated to Savannah and was moved by the story. He offered to carve a sculpture of the little girl from a photograph to preserve her memory. Today, the sculpture is admired just as much as it was the day it was carved for its lifelike realism of the subject.

#11. Mount of Olives, Jerusalem

The Mount of Olives in Jerusalem is over 3,000 years old. Older than any of the others on this list by over 1,200 years. From afar, the sand-hued tombs blend in with the Kidron Valley, so much so that you might not even though it’s there. But when you walk closer, the different shapes and carvings will soon reveal themselves to you. The cemetery is the resting place of rabbis, Christian prophets, and the Israeli prime minister. People were brought from around the world to be buried in this sacred soil.

As you walk past, some tombstones are so old that nothing but a rough headstone remains. The details of who they were and when they died were all lost to time. It is said that this very valley was where Jesus once was thought to walk through the Garden of Gethsemane. Although nothing remains, imagine the lush green groves and trees that once covered this part of the country. The cemetery also provides one of the most spectacular views across Jerusalem.

#12. Panteón de Dolores

The Panteón Civil de Dolores is the largest cemetery in Mexico. You can find the cemetery inside the great Chapultepec Park in Mexico City. The cemetery was created by Juan Manuel Benfield. When his sister Dolores died in Veracruz, shortly after she had arrived from London, he needed a place to bury her. All cemeteries in Veracruz were reserved for Roman Catholics, and Benfield’s family was Anglican. As a large landowner in Mexico City, he founded a large graveyard in her name, naming it Panteón Civil de Dolores. He opened the cemetery up to all religions, and it quickly became one of the most popular burial spots in the city.

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Today there are over 700,000 people buried here. Some tombs contain multiple bodies. The cemetery is home to the “Rotonda de las Personas Ilustres” where some of the most famous citizens who contributed to Mexico’s civic, national and human values are entombed. This includes the renowned painter Diego Rivera, whose grave is somewhat of a pilgrimage site for those who come to Mexico City to explore his public works of art. Other famous graves include Tina Modotti, General Calles, Venustiano Carranza, Alfonso Reyes and Ángel del Campo. Each is designed with freedom of creation that you don’t always see worldwide.

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#13. South Park Street Cemetery in Kolkata, India

The enchanting South Park Street Cemetery in Kolkata looks like it grew up from the earth, not constructed atop it. Originally built in 1767 but closed in 1830, this old colonial cemetery has had over 300 years of overgrowth to turn its dull grey tombs into bright green monuments. South Park Street is the largest Christian cemetery outside Europe and North America. When the British came to Kolkata, they required a graveyard for their dead since they did prescribe to the local custom of burning the deceased.

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The graves are each ornate creations ranging in styles from Gothic to Indo-Saracenic. Walking beneath the tropical treetops, you’ll find a mix of obelisks, urns, and caskets. Moss grows wildly, and ferns seem to intertwine with the elaborate carvings. One of the most famous graves is of Major-General Charles Stuart. He wanted his tomb to resemble a minature Hindu temple. Despite his nationality, the general wanted to have his tomb inspired by his homeland and adopted country.

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#14. Old Jewish Cemetery in Prague

The Old Jewish Cemetery in Prague is the third oldest cemetery in Europe. Some argue it is also the largest, but counting the number of people buried here is a challenge. And that challenge is part of why the cemetery has become so famous. Consecrated in the first half of the 15th century, it was the only place where Jews could be buried in Prague. As per Jewish doctrine, graves cannot be moved. But eventually, the small graveyard ran out of space, so the dead were buried on top of each other. This has resulted in layer upon layer of stones crammed together, looking like a sea of stones. There are estimated to be over 100,000 Jews buried here. Poets, writers, and rabbis lived in Prague’s Jewish Quarter. 

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Gravestones over the Ages

There are over 12,000 remaining headstones in the cemetery. The earliest tombstones in the cemetery can be identified by their roman and gothic styles. The renaissance period stones feature lines of poetry and biblical quotes. The 16th and 17th-century tombstones were more intricately sculpted with inscriptions of the deceased’s family name, profession, or even personality trait. A bunch of grapes would have denoted that they had a full life; a pile of books was for cantors and scissors for tailors.

But the meticulous preservation of this cemetery was almost lost to history. During WWII, the Nazis took control of Prague. While they were destroying all memory of Jews worldwide, they decided not to destroy the cemetery. But this was not due to any small kindness; it was instead because they wished to include the cemetery in their “Museum of an Extinct Race .”But, by the grace of all that is good, they did not fulfil their dark plans, and because of this greed on their part, we are left with a very important piece of their history.

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#15. Milan Monumental Cemetery, Italy

Looking at the Milan Monumental Cemetery from afar, it might appear like a jumble of cluttered tombstones. But as you approach the individual monuments, you’ll begin to see that each is an artful masterpiece assembled together; this is more of an outdoor art museum than a cemetery.

Some of Italy’s wealthiest families buried their dead here over the last 150 years. A guided tour of the cemetery will take you past some of the most exquisite sculptures which sit upon the dead buried below. The most impressive ones I’m drawn to are the ones with beautiful stone women who have thrown themselves down upon the grave in eternal sorrow over the loss of their beloved. Marble tears forever fall from their eyes.

#16. St. Andrews Graveyard, Scotland

Once the site of St. Andrews Cathedral, most of this stone church has long since disappeared, destroyed by fires and storms. Despite the ravages to the building, the graveyard remains, framed by the last remaining stones of the church and the cliffside below. The graveyard was initially consecrated in the 11th and 12th centuries. Wandering the church’s shell and the graveyard surrounding it can be an eerie yet beautiful experience. There have even been graves unearthed under the floor of the chapter house. The oldest gravestones have been protected from the elements and moved inside a museum nearby. However, many of the remaining ones are still on display. Since the church was built in the medieval period, many gravestones are wonderful examples of medieval stonework.

The post 16 of the World’s Most Beautiful Cemeteries first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
3. #1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
4. #2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán
5. #3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza
6. #4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán
7. #5 Learn about Mexico's Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares
8. #6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul
9. #7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated
10. #8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho
11. #9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán
12. #10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa
13. #11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina
14. #12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
15. #13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán
16. #14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, Line 3 to Coyoacan Station, but the station is a bit of a walk from the main areas of the tour. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, and mythology with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer the land they controlled.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores in 1519 the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexicas, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and gardens.

#1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

#2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours. They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions.

The Monastery

The monastery is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

#3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th-century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

#4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán

The Mercado de Coyoacán has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, marketplace was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Shopping in the Market

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan ! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shtrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

El Borrego de Oro

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

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#5 Learn about Mexico’s Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares

The National Museum of Popular Culture is one of the most vibrant museums you’ll visit anywhere in the world. Rather than old painting or ancient relics, the museum focuses on temporary exhibitions which rotate and change throughout the year. They call themselves a living entity. There is always something new to see. But regardless of what is on exhibition, there will also be items featuring expressions of popular, indigenous and urban cultures. The museum is a great place to come to learn about Mexico’s current culture and art scene. 

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#6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

#7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

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#8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick-me-up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

#9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán

This ice cream shop across from the park has been serving up traditional flavours of ice cream inspired by the many different fruits which grow only around this part of the country. Don’t recognize the name or a certain flavour? Give it a try! You might be totally shocked to find a new favourite flavour, even if you had no idea what it actually was. This is an especially good treat if you’re visiting on a hot day. Grab a few scoops and relax under the shade of the park nearby.

#10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán. Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

#11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina

The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

#12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings!

There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century. In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple.

#13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

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#14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

The Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives has 30 different movie theatres housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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The post 14 of the Best Places to Visit in Coyoacán to Spend the Perfect Day in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

You’ll visit not only her famous residence, Casa Azul, but also explore a multitude of other significant places. These spots were essential in the formation of her identity and connection to her Mexican heritage. If this is your first time visiting Mexico City, this tour is an excellent method of discovery. Many of her famous locations are located in the heart of neighbourhoods with a variety of other popular attractions.

Tour Itinerary

This tour is divided up into four different sections, each one focusing on a particular area of Mexico City. While it might not be the most chronological journey, it allows you to explore different neighbourhoods around Mexico city cohesively. While a chronological life tour would be better in terms of following her journey, it requires bouncing all over the city. Especially for those who are on a tight schedule, that’s not the best use of your time.

The three different neighbourhoods are the Coyoacán, Historic City Centre, and Xochimilco’t. You can easily add these spots to your existing itinerary. I would advise to only tackle one neighbourhood at a time. Don’t try to fit it all in one go. The last section is a list of museums. These museums will help you get a deeper understanding of Mexican culture, insights about Frida, and art in Mexico. Since these places were not locations Frida really visited they are not part of the essential tour. Although they do add a lot of contextual information if you’re interested in that kind of thing.

Below is a map of the entire walking tour. I have broken up the neighbourhoods into separate maps for easy-to-follow directions.

Frida Kahlo in Coyoacan

1. Tour Itinerary
2. Frida Kahlo Museum
3. Coyoacan Market
4. The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal
5. Cantina La Guadalupana
6. Parroquia San Juan Bautista
7. Frida Kahlo Park
8. La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura
9. Jardín Centenario
10. Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
11. Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera's House-Studio
12. Former College of San Ildefonso
13. Biblioteca Pública 
14. Secretaría De Educación Pública
15. Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
16. The Palacio Nacional
17. Avenue 5 de Mayo
18. Garibaldi Square
19. Palacio de Bellas Artes
20. Alameda Central
21. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
22. La Ciudadela
23. Xochimilco Canals
24. Museo Dolores Olmedo
25. Templo Mayor Museum
26. Museum of Modern Art
27. Museo Nacional de Antropología
28. Mexican Art Gallery | GAM
29. Museo Franz Mayer
30. Museo Anahuacalli

Frida Kahlo Museum

La Casa Azul or “the blue house“, located on Londres Street in Coyoacán once belonged to Frida’s father, Guillermo Kahlo. It was here where she was born. She grew up inside these walls. It was the place where she suffered from illness but also flourished as an artist. Eventually, Frida bought the house from her parents and lived with her husband, Diego. They got divorced and remarried all within these blue walls. And ultimately, it was the place where she would pass away. It was her sanctuary but also her cage. She spent more years inside these walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art. They collected pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more which is still on display. You feel a deep connection with Frida by literally walking in her footsteps. You get to see her inner sanctum and looking at the precious treasures she collected, which represented her passions, her wishes and her dreams. To learn more about the Casa Azul take my self guided tour!

Coyoacan Market

South of Frida’s house is the Coyoacán Market. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. Both Frida and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul. Frida loved to cook, and there are countless recipe books out there that details her favourite recipes. At one time, she was quoted as saying,

“We could not have a child, and I cried inconsolably, but I distracted myself by cooking, dusting the house, sometimes by painting…”

Frida’s Shopping List

Frida would come to these brightly coloured corners of the marketplace to shop for her favourite ingredients, chat with her local shopkeepers and wander around to get inspired for her next creation. This marketplace feels a little more laid back and less modern than some of the ones in the inner city. Exploring it feels like more of an authentic experience to the one Frida would have had herself. Make sure you ask about the mole paste they sell here. Mole was one of Frida’s favourite things to cook and eat, and there are countless varieties here you can buy and taste! See which one if your favourite and bring some of the powdered version home with you to make in your own kitchen!

The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal

The Casa de Cortes, on the north side, of the Plaza Hidalgo was where the seat of government was held for many years. And it was here that Frida and Diego were married. Frida’s parents were not a fan of Diego…to say the least. Diego had already been married twice, and his reputation as an unfaithful husband wasn’t a big secret around town. He was also 21 years older than 22-year-old Frida. Her parents protested and begged Diego not to marry her, but the love birds could not be swayed. Her parents referred to the union as a “marriage between an elephant and a dove” since Diego was over 300 pounds, and due to her illnesses, Frida was only a petite 98 pounds.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

The two were married on August 21st, 1929. Their marriage in city hall was presided by the mayor of Coyaocan, and their witnesses were a hairdresser and homeopathic doctor. Frida wore only a long skirt and simple blouse with a rebozo (shawl) wrapped around her shoulder. She would often wear these in the same way that female revolutionaries wore them during the 1910 revolution when women used the scarves to smuggle guns past government checkpoints. Diego was dressed in a plain grey suit, accessorized with a Stetson hat and a Colt revolver. After their short ceremony, they retreated to their good friend Tina Modotti’s house where the raucous reception was held.

It was recorded that after the wedding, during their reception, Diego took the colt revolver and shot it off aimlessly in a drunken stupor. Frida was none too pleased at this childish behaviour, and it would be the first signs of trouble in paradise for the couple.

Cantina La Guadalupana

Just down the street from the Casa Municipal, you’ll find Frida’s old watering hole, Cantina La Guadalupana. Although the original cantina is now closed, you can still see the old signage out front marking the spot. The building is much unchanged from the days when you’d catch a glimpse of Frida’s richly coloured skirts in the window. The Cantina La Guadalupana was the couple’s bar of choice for drinking tequila under the dim lights and surrounded by bullfighting decor. Frida was quite the prolific drinker for her small size and other than tequila, she would love to drink pulque. Pulque is made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant, native to Mexico. It was a beverage which the ancients Aztecs invented and drinking it made her feel closer to those old gods.

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Parroquia San Juan Bautista

Across the park, stands the imposing shadow of the baroque church that Frida Kahlo attended while she was growing up, Parroquia San Juan Bautista. It is also called the Iglesia de Coyoacán as the church has become the central place of worship in Coyoacán. It was built between 1520 and 1552 and run by an old Dominican order. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. But surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations.

The interior, however, is covered in baroque gilded decorations, and mindblowing ceiling frescos of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Frida would have come here as a child and prayed with her parents. You can only imagine how such a richly artistic place would have inspired young Frida’s mind.

Frida Kahlo Park

Seeing as the city is the place of her birth, it seems only right that Frida would have a park dedicated after her. Frida loved the outdoor, and although not everyone can afford to go into the Casa Azul’s garden daily, they can wake their way to Frida Kahlo Park to celebrate the great artistic legacy…or at the very least, walk their dog in a lovely setting. In the centre of the park, you’ll find two large, bronze sculptures of Frida and Diego. Frida is dressed in her classic Tehuana outfit, gazing over at Diego. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned into geometric shapes, slightly resembling Aztec pyramids popping out in the background.

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La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura

Located on the east end of Coyoacán, is La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura. Frida began teaching here in 1942. She hoped that its close proximity to her house would mean she could easily commute to and from and continue to educate Mexico City’s artistic youth. She loved her students and teaching, but her leg was bothering her more and more and eventually, she couldn’t leave the house. Luckily, the students loved her as well, and the dedicated pupils would come to the Casa Azul, where Frida could continue to instruct them. She would always inspire her students to look to Mexican culture for inspiration, instead of being influenced by European trends. While Frida might not have taught here for a long time, the school grounds are a beautiful and inspiring place to explore.

Jardín Centenario

The Jardin del Centenario is the central greenspace in Coyoacan. It is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. The gardens were once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

This beautiful garden is also where you’ll find a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below.

Frida in the Park

This delightful park is where a place Frida would frequently come to stroll or celebrate during her life in Coyoacan. It was here where the city would hold parades, festivals and fairs. Diego Rivera’s daughters have written extensively about their time living with Diego and Frida in Coyoacán. They lived with them inside the Casa Azul for two years while they completed college. The Jardín CentenarioIn is featured heavily in their accounts as Frida loved to come there to ride carnival rides and march in parades on any day of festivity and would always bring Diego’s daughters with her. Although Frida could never have children herself, she mothered so many young people along the way, acting as a parental figure any time she got the chance.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

The Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles is a cultural centre, free to enter and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. Just inside the entrance to the Casa is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. The house has existed here since 1780, occupied by a variety of different families. It’s no stretch to imagine that the previous owners would have welcomed the famous couple into their garden for a visit or a dinner party from time to time.

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio

Farther west, just outside of Coyoacán in the neighbouring district of San Angel is Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio. Frida and Diego had this building custom designed by their friend Juan O’Gorman. The studio was intended to be two separate buildings, connected by a bridge. A way of physically showing the differences between these two artists, who despite all odds, still manage to come together. Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. Frida’s studio, on the other hand, is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her home in Coyoacán. Diego’s house features thin windows along the top of the walls. Frida’s features almost floor to ceiling windows, giving the interior space that indoor/outdoor feeling. The house is separated from the street by a perimeter fence which instead of being made from wood or wrought-iron, is made from stacking rows of tall cacti along the roadside.

Studio-House

The couple lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they got divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul, leaving Diego to live full time, alone in the studio-house. Even after getting back together, only 9-months later, Frida and Diego kept the studio to use as more workspace. Today the interior of the studio features a lot of Diego Rivera’s work and decor, especially his collection of papier-mâché figures.

The Frida side of the house is pretty bare since most of her treasures moved over to the Casa Azul, but it is still interesting to view the architectural designs from inside. The best part of her studio to explore is her bathroom. It was in here that she was inspired to paint ‘What the Water Gave Me’ while staring down at her feet in the bathtub in one of her fits of depression. The very tub which is portrayed in the painting can be still seen today inside the studio. Frida also painted such iconic images as ‘The eye of the eye‘ and ‘The deceased Dimas’ while she lived at the studio-house.

Former College of San Ildefonso

We begin this part of the tour at the Former College of San Ildefonso. It seems very fitting to start the journey here since it was a place of so many firsts for Frida. This was where Frida first went to college in 1922. There she met some of her best friends, her first boyfriend and, most importantly, first met the love of her life; Diego Rivera. Frida’s father had the utmost confidence in his daughter.

Even after she had spent a good deal of her adolescence homeschooled, due to her polio, he still thought she was a genius. Her father decided to send her to this former Jesuit college, at much expense to the family. She was one of only 35 girls, out of 2000 students who went to the school. But she had always gotten along with boys almost more than she did with girls, so she flourished there. Frida would even be seen wearing men’s clothes to the college from time to time and embraced her more masculine side.

The Creation

At the same time, Frida was at school here, Diego Rivera has been commissioned to paint an enormous mural on the lecture room walls. The painting, called ‘The Creation‘ was Rivera’s first gigantic mural of this kind. It was commissioned by the Mexican government to educate the masses of people who couldn’t read but wanted to learn about history. The mural covers more than a thousand square feet and portrays mythological and religious motifs.

It was here when painting the mural that Frida first laid eyes on Diego. She would sneak in to watch him paint his nude models anytime she could. Diego, although married to Lupe Marin at the time, would frequently be found by Frida in the midst of making love to one of his models. She took it upon herself to even warn the artists if she saw his wife coming. Frida would mock and tease him as he worked, but he saw her as a charming little pest. She would go on and on about him to her friends, and despite their age difference, and would proclaim that one day, she would be his wife and have a child by him. Although the latter would never come to pass, who knew how right she would be about the rest.

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Biblioteca Pública 

Down the street from her college, we find the Biblioteca Pública where Frida would come to study. She would come here to meet up with her schoolmates the ‘Los Cachuchas‘. It was here they would discuss at length the politics of the day and plan their communist rallies. But the library was not just a place of learning for Frida. The library was also where she would spend hours falling in love with her first boyfriend, Alex Gómez Arias. In addition to Alex, she also met a gorgeous female librarian and had her first affair with a woman amongst these books. This relationship caused quite the scandal in the community but was her first foray into exploring her bisexuality.

Secretaría De Educación Pública

Just to the north of the school, is the spot of another one of Diego Rivera’s masterpieces. There are 235 panels in the Secretaría de Educación Pública featuring Diego’s favourite themes of blue-collar workers, and the glorification of all things Mexican. It was here while painting these murals in 1928 that Frida Kahlo would come to see Rivera once more. After her injury from the bus accident, she needed to find a way of making money for her family and art was always something which had interested her.

But Frida didn’t know if her artwork was skilled enough to become an accomplished artist. So she went to ask the one man she admired above all others and whom she knew would tell her the truth. She marched right up to him, her work under her arms, and asked him for an honest critique. He was flabbergasted at her brash attitude and charmed by her confidence. It looks him some time to recognize her as the little pest from years before, but it was here that perhaps Diego first fell in love with Frida.

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Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral

Frida’s mother was a fiercely religious woman. The Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral was right beside where Frida would walk to school every day and as such a part of her daily life. Even though many of Frida’s paintings contain a wide variety of indigenous imagery, she was raised in a Catholic household. Elements of religious iconography can be seen in her pictures, especially in her studies of ex-votos. This church is a beautiful place to explore and discover different references you might compare to some of Frida’s famous portraits. The church itself was built after the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire.

The Spaniards decided to build their first church on the site of the Templo Mayor of the Aztec in the city of Tenochtitlan. Stones from the destroyed temple of the Aztecs were used to create the church. And although we now look upon the destruction of that ancient temple as something to morn, it is incredible to stare up at this church and see stones stuck throughout from over 1000 years ago. The construction of the Cathedral began in 1573 and took until 1813 to complete! The enormous cathedral is over 350 feet long and 200 feet wide. This makes it Latin America’s largest and oldest temple.

The Palacio Nacional

The Palacio Nacional or National Palace is an enormous building which stretches out across the Zocalo. While some of the Palace is still used for governmental purposes, the rest of the building is open to the public and filled with incredible gardens, murals, fountains and works of art. But the most meaningful Frida related piece in the palace is the mural by Diego Rivera entitled, ‘The History of Mexico’.

The mural features the history of Mexico from pre-Columbian ancient times to the 1930s. Rivera painted the mural between 1929 and 1935. Key events in the mural feature stories like the Spanish conquest, the colonial period, the Independence movement, and the 1910 Revolution. The right side of the mural is a chronological study of the indigenous Aztecs before colonization.

The left side of the painting is less chronological, featuring smaller groups of stories about Mexico’s Independence. Along the bottom of the mural on the left is the portrait of Frida Kahlo, her iconic monobrow making her easily distinguishable from the others. She looks over a young boys shoulder at his book and is seen wearing a necklace with the communist star. In front of her, dressed in a red, is Cristina, Frida’s sister, holding open a copy of the Communist Manifesto. Years later, Diego would have an affair with Cristina, so seeing the two women here together, years before these dramatic events would unfold feels slightly foreboding.

Avenue 5 de Mayo

Walk along Avenue 5 de Mayo, towards our next destination. While the pedestrian street Avenue Francisco Madero is more popular, I always find it’d packed with tourists and people hawking flyers. In addition to this, the stores are all American brands which don’t feel as authentic to Mexico City. Walking along the street, you’ll see that many of these shops are incredibly old.

There are dozens of stores along the way that Frida herself might have popped her head in while she worked in the city. During her adolescence, she would come into the historic centre to work both in her father’s studio or at other artists’ workshops. Frida worked as an artist apprentice in the city, where she had her first affair with a married man. All of this before the age of 18. These streets filled her life with passion, and that can be seen in her escapades.

Garibaldi Square

Plaza Garibaldi is known as the home of mariachi music. Throughout the day, you’ll find mariachi bands playing all over the square. Frida herself loved coming here. She would bring her friends and family here anytime there was a celebration or holiday. She adored dancing to the music and often took part singing songs with the band members.

NOTE: Due to it’s proximity to the dangerous neighbourhood of Tepito, this area should be visited with caution, during the daylight hours. In recent years the city has taken many precautions to help with the safety concerns including increased police presence and the creation of the Bellas Artes-Garibaldi Tourism Corridor. This corridor has improved street lighting as well as the addition of beautiful gardens and sidewalks in the neighbouring streets to help improve the appearance of the area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Palacio de Bellas Artes

Palacio de Bellas Artes and its iconic rainbow stained glass roof are one of the most iconic images of Mexico City. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts events in music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and is therefore aptly named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico”. The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical, but inside you’ll discover a plethora of Art Deco and Art Nouveau stylings. On the 3rd floor is Diego Rivera’s famous ‘El hombre en el cruce de caminos‘ (Man at the Crossroads).

This mural was initially painted for New York City’s Rockefeller Center in 1933 but torn down by Rockefeller when Diego refused to paint out the image of Lenin he had sneakily included. Frida’s life in New York City, following Diego around from commission to commission, was such a significant point in her life. Gazing upon this mural, albeit the second version of it, is still such a powerful connection to the couple.

Frida’s Funeral

When Frida Kahlo died, Diego arranged for her body to be laid in state at the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The government agreed, only if they would make it an entirely non-political event. Diego agreed, but unbeknownst to him, one of her students came to pay their respects and after he did, threw a huge communist flag over her casket. The government threated to have her body removed, but Diego refused to let them. He said if they tried, he would carry her dead body in his arm and sit with her on the steps of the palace. Before she died, the last words she wrote in her diary read:

“I hope the exit is joyful – and I hope never to return”.

Alameda Central

One of Rivera’s most famous paintings is the fifty-foot fresco ‘Sunday walk through Alameda Park‘. The picture is currently in the Diego Rivera mural museum, but visiting Alameda Park is an excellent opportunity to take a walk inside of the painting itself. Alameda Park was Mexico City’s first city park and was built on the grounds of an ancient Aztec marketplace. Frida is painted into the mural, wearing the traditional Tehuana dress. She is holding in her left hand the Yin-Yang symbol, which represents duality. Perhaps this is the duality of life, or maybe Diego painted it as a reference to Frida’s dual personality.

Frida is resting her hand on young Diego’s should, like a mother protecting her young one. You can imagine how many times Diego and Frida would have come to this park together, to paint and to relax. Take some time to walk around and even buy some street food snacks to enjoy under the Jacaranda trees which bloom bright purple in the springtime.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

If you’ve visited the real Alameda Park, then it’s a treat to then see the mural of, ‘Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Central’. Look how closely Diego captured its likeness and the personalities of the people in the park. Despite being called a museum, the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is more of a housing spot for the mural, but the admission is just over a dollar. Originally the mural it was located at Hotel Del Prado. After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the hotel was condemned. Luckily, the mural was saved (in pieces) and moved the museum where it was reassembled.

La Ciudadela

Another iconic destination on the tour of Frida’s Mexico City is to the La Ciudadela marketplace. While this market only opened up in 1968, Frida would have frequented markets like this many times throughout her life in Mexico City. Places like this would have been where she came to purchase folk art, traditional textiles and elaborate, locally-made jewellery. So many of the old Tehuana patterns and dresses which Frida was known for can still be found in marketplaces like this.

Because this market is so large, you’ll have the largest selection and artisans comes from all over the country. Oaxaca is the best place to buy textiles from so if you see signage saying the products are from there you know they’ll be top-notch. If you’ve visited the Casa Azul already, you can even buy replicas of her favourite objects since many of those folk pieces are still made in the same way today. It’s like shopping in a Frida Kahlo-themed store!

Xochimilco Canals

Xochimilco is the Venice of Mexico. In the southern district of Mexico City, you’ll find is over 170 km of waterways which spread out in all different directions. Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico City, the indigenous people had created an incredible network of canals. They used these channels for transportation and to supply water throughout the country. Xochimilco means “Floating Gardens” as it refers to the Aztecs creation of the chinampas. Chinampas are artificial agricultural plots, rich in minerals, that are grown in shallow lake beds. In Xochimilco, they were used to produce thousands of flowers which looked like they were floating in the water. After the Spanish invasion, they dried up many of the canals in the centre of Mexico City to make room for modern roads. But the channels in Xochimilco remained.

Frida adored her Mexican heritage and the colourful culture which Mexico is all about. Today, Xochimilco is the best place to bask in that colour and energy. Along the canals, you can listen to mariachi bands, call over boats with mobile kitchens to serve up fresh tacos or delicious elote. Paddling along the stream are artisans selling flower crowns that resemble the flowers that Frida herself would wear in her hair. Even here, her iconic image is prevalent. To learn more about Xochimilco read my full guide here >> 

Museo Dolores Olmedo

While in Xochimilco, make sure you make a stop at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Museum. The museum is located inside the grounds of an old 16th-century residence. In 1962, Dolores Olmedo bought the house. Dolores was a fierce collector of art as well as a lover of Mexican culture. It is no surprise to learn then that she old became the largest collector of private works of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. In 1994, her collection was transformed into the museum we now find today. Luckily, Dolores lived until 2002, so she was able to see this fantastic house converted into an art gallery for the public.

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Today you can explore gardens filled with exotic Mexican plants, magical peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles. Xoloitzcuintles are a dog breed which was once only thought it exists in mythical stories of the afterlife but is actually an ancient Aztec dog. Frida herself loved these dogs and owned multiple throughout her lifetime. Inside the museum, you can find such famous Frida Kahlo’s as ‘The Broken Column’, ‘Henry Ford Hospital’, ‘Self-portrait with Changuito’, ‘A few Piquetitos‘ and ‘Mi nana Nand Me‘. If there is a particular painting, you wish to see be SURE to check online as so often her pictures are out on loan, being shown around the world.

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Templo Mayor Museum

Mexican culture and history were so essential to Frida’s life. Although Templo Mayor wasn’t discovered until after her death in 1978, Frida would have loved to have seen this relic from the past unveiled. Today, you can visit the museum and see what archaeologists discovered; the remains of the Aztec temple which the Spanish destroyed on their conquest into Mexico. The 10-foot carving of the Mexican goddess Coyolxauhqui and the over 7,000 Mexica artefacts is an entire half days worth of discovery!

Museum of Modern Art

The Museum of Modern Art in Mexico City has a stunning collection of 20th-century Mexican art. The most important being Frida Kahlo’s “The Two Fridas“. This painting is one of the most essential pieces in her oeuvre. It was painted after she divorced Diego and depicts what she saw as her two different personalities. The one on the left is dressed in traditional Tehuana costume, with a broken heart, her blood spilling out on the white of her dress. This Frida’s makeup is done, her lips painted deep red and rouge on her cheeks.

The Frida on the right is dressed in a more modern outfit. She is the independent Frida, whose heart is not broken and who can take on the world without Diego. But the two exist together, shattered and complete, heartbroken and confident. I love this painting as I feel it is so poignant to all of our lives and how we can be all things at once. Strong and weak, shy and loud, brave and scared. You don’t need to commit to one thing alone, we are complex beings, and this painting is a beautiful interpretation of that.

NOTE: Before visiting, be sure to check the website to see if the painting is on loan to another museum. Since this is the only piece of Kahlo’s inside the museum if you’re going expecting to see that and it’s on loan I know how disappointing that might be. So checking in advance is super important!

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Museo Nacional de Antropología

Throughout her life, Frida would often refer to “being the daughter and Mexico“. Her mother was unable to breastfeed young Frida, and so she was breastfed by her indigenous wetnurse. This is an image Frida has painted in a myriad of artworks. Frida always thought that by feeding on the milk of her country, she absorbed the cultural roots of her heritage from the minute she was born. Visiting the National Anthropology Museum is a window into the pre-colonial history of Mexico and those roots Frida so often referred to. The museum is also filled with many indigenous artworks as well as some of Frida and Diego’s student’s artwork they helped inspire.

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Mexican Art Gallery | GAM

Inés Amor founded the original Mexican Art Gallery in Mexico’s City in 1935. This was where Frida’s first art show in Mexico would take place. She exhibited her artworks during the inaugural International Surrealist Exhibition in 1940 with her painting ‘Las Fridas‘ (The Two Fridas, which is now at the Modern Art Gallery of Mexico). Even though there are no longer any of her pictures hanging on the walls, this is still an extraordinary place to visit. The gallery was the first to recognize the talents of Frida Kahlo professionally, and they are doing the same thing with current, contemporary Mexican artists today.

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Museo Franz Mayer

The Franz Mayer Museum is one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in Mexico City. It also houses a wonderful personal art collection from collector Franz Mayer. Here you can find over six centuries of objects he took great care in collecting throughout his lifetime. These collections feature ceramics, furniture, silver, sculpture, paintings and engravings.

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But there is also a room, called the Marguerite Rostan gallery, which highlights traditional Mexican textiles and costumes. The collection contains clothing from 14 different ethnicities such as Amusgos, Triquis, Chinantecos, Mazatecos, Nahuas from various places across Mexico. This acquisition represents and embodies an important contribution to the knowledge of traditional Mexican costumes. Many of these dresses are so similar to the ones Frida wore throughout her life. If you’re interested in learning more about traditional Mexican fashion, this is a great place to visit.

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Museo Anahuacalli

On your way to Xochimilco, you should stop by the Museo Anahuacalli. Your ticket into the Casa Azul actually also covers your entry into this museum as well, so you kinda get a two for one! The Museo Anahuacalli was another one of Diego Rivera’s homes. Diego and Frida were both fierce nationalists who loved their home country and wanted to preserve its history. Diego and Frida dreamed of opening their own museum dedicated to these objects. Sadly, in their lifetime, this dream never came to fruition. But after Diego’s death, his daughter took up the project and created what is now the Museo Anahuacalli. Architect, Juan O’Gorman who designed their studio, also designed this house as well.

The exterior of the house was made using black volcanic stone, taken from an old volcano in Mexico and the texture is something truly unique. There are over 50,000 pre-Hispanic pieces inside the museum. Some of these Diego would collect while he and Frida would travel to ancient Aztec pyramids outside of Mexico City. Each one of them was a piece of Mexico’s heritage, a heritage that inspired the work of Frida Kahlo and I know she would be proud to have helped in the creation of this museum which stands today.

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If you’ve made it all the way through this post, I commend you! There is so much in Mexico City to see in the footsteps of Frida Kahlo. You can easily adapt this tour to your personal interests or locations you’re already planning on visiting. Frida is one of the most exciting artists I’ve ever studied, and I loved writing and researching this tour, so I hope you have as much fun following it as I did in creating it!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Following the Colorful Life of Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This guided walking tour will lead you across the all the important stops in Coyoacán. I think to take it at a leisurely pace, leave yourself a whole day so you can take your time and go inside a few of the stops along the way. A google map with all the locations on the tour can be found at the bottom of this post.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
   • Map Of Walking Tour
   • Begin at: Frida Kahlo Park
   • Plaza de la Conchita
   • Casa de la Malinche
   • Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
   • Calle de Higuera
   • Iglesia de Coyoacán
     • Church Interior
   • Centenario Plaza
   • Hidalgo Plaza
   • Casa Municipal
   • Mercado Artesanal
   • Mercado de Coyoacán
     • Market Stalls
   • La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Museum
   • Leon Trotsky House Museum
   • Cafe El Jarocho
   • Le Bipo
   • Churreria General de la Republica
   • La Casa Del Coleccionista
   • Avenida Francisco Sosa
   • Casa De Diego De Ordaz
   • Italian Cultural Institute
   • Parque Santa Catarina
   • Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
     • Frida and Diego Statue
   • Barricas Don Tiburcio
   • Fonoteca Nacional
   • Viveros de Coyoacán
   • Centenario 107
   • Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, but the station is quite far away from our starting point. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City. The journey takes around 25 minutes depending on traffic.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer land.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores of Mexico in 1519, the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexican tribes, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. Cortés established himself in Coyoacán with the tribe he had become close with. He brought with him much wealth and Coyoacán bloomed as one of the most beautiful villages in the world, not just in Mexico. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can still find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and lush green gardens.

Map Of Walking Tour

Begin at: Frida Kahlo Park

Wake up bright and early and head on down to the start of your tour, Frida Kahlo Park. Since Frida is the most well-known resident of the neighbourhood, it seems fitting to start our journey here. This square honours the memory of the great Mexican painter. You can find a bronze sculpture of her with a full Tehuana dress, standing proudly in the centre of the plaza. Beside her, is her husband, Diego Rivera, looking on lovingly. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned and geometric shapes, resembling those of Aztec pyramids forming the archway overtop of the pathway.

 

 

 

 

 

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Plaza de la Conchita

Early in the morning, this peaceful square is practically empty. Only a few tamale sellers might be seen passing through on their way to hot spots in the centre of Coyoacán. In the middle of this square stands the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception Church, or “La Conchita“. La Conchita is a nickname for the church which literally translate into, “the little shell”. Although the church is now closed for restoration work, walking around this plaza will still provide an excellent introduction to the neighbourhood.

When the Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes arrived in Coyoacán, he built this Church on what once was a pre-Hispanic ceremonial site. This was where Cortes held the very first Christian mass in the new land. The building’s exterior has an incredible stonework patterned facade, meant to resemble a the texture of a shell. The restoration taking place is attempting to repaint the church the same canary yellow as it once would have been coloured.

Casa de la Malinche

Walking north along the park, along Higuera street, you’ll pass the Casa de la Malinche. Although not open to the public, this house is thought to have been initially built for Cortés’ Spanish wife, Catalina Juárez de Marcaida. ‘La Malinche’ is the Spanish word for ‘the captain’s woman‘. Catalina Juárez de Marcaida was murdered in this very spot as she was seen to be a traitor to her people and even sometimes blamed for the downfall of the Aztec empire.

Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

Calle de Higuera

Walking along the Calle de Higuera, up towards our next stop, take some time to observe the houses and buildings on either side of the street. This is one of the oldest streets in the city. Many of these homes were built in the colonial era and have been catalogued for their historical value.

Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

Church Interior

The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours.

They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions. The monastery portion of the church is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

Centenario Plaza

Spend some time wandering the two adjoining parks, the Centenario Garden and Hidalgo Plaza. The gated entrance to the Jardin del Centenario is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. It was once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

In the centre of Centenario Plaza is a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below. Underfoot, the street is paved with red and black volcanic stone from Mexico.

Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

Casa Municipal

Across from Hidalgo Plaza, you’ll find the Hernan Cortés house or Casa Municipal. It was built in the 18th century as an administration building for the government. Although called the Cortes house, the conquistador never lived here. He did in fact life in Coyoacán from 1521 to 1522 but never on this property, even though a placard on the building says he did...the original fake news I suppose. Perhaps he simply spent so many hours inside these walls that people simply assumed he must live there.

Cortés resided on a piece of land once owned by the indigenous leader of Coyoacán, Juan de Guzmán Iztolinque, located where we now find La Conchita Church. The current incarnation of the Casa Municipal was built in the 18th century by Cortés’ descendants. The building was where the government of Coyoacán did all their business until 1928 when this district was absorbed as a municipality of Mexico City.

Mercado Artesanal

Across the street from Hidalgo Plaza is the yellow archway entrance to the Mercado Artesanal Coyoacán. While this artist market is less impressive than the Mercado De Artesanias La Ciudadela, the courtyard of the Artesanal market here well worth checking out for the beautiful ‘papel picado’ (pecked paper) which hang from either side of the small garden. The prices in this market are actually very reasonable (sometimes cheaper than in the city centre), but the selection isn’t extensive. I did find some beautiful glass work which I hadn’t seen anywhere though so you really never know what you’ll find. And if this is your only opportunity to visit a market in Mexico City than this is a great opportunity.

Mercado de Coyoacán

Head north along Aguayo and turn down Ignacio Allende where you’ll spot the terra cotta roof tiles of the Mercado de Coyoacán. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, market place was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Market Stalls

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

 

 

 

 

 

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La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Museum

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

Leon Trotsky House Museum

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

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Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick me up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

Le Bipo

If coffee won’t suffice and you’re looking for something a little more intense, head across to Le Bipo, across from Allende Park. This hip bar is a stylish place for an afternoon drink and some great people watching. For something really unique, try the Mauricio Garcés, a mezcal and with frozen pineapple soda, topped with chili powder.

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Churreria General de la Republica

On your way back towards the western part of down, you’ll pass back from through the Jardin Centenario once more. Across from the park is the Churreria General de la Republica which sells some fantastic churros, served up with a variety of dipping sauces. I love a churro but I think I love dipping them even more! If you’re hankering for a snack, this is a great place to stop for a quick break and take a seat in the park.

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La Casa Del Coleccionista

Right around the corner from the churros bakery is La Casa Del Coleccionista. This little shop sells antiques of all kinds. You can find everything from flatware, toys, paintings, vases, coins and more! Even if you don’t leave with anything, this place is like visiting a museum of Coyoacán’s ephemera.

Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

Casa De Diego De Ordaz

One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán.

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Italian Cultural Institute

Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

Parque Santa Catarina

For a quiet break, stop off in the Parque Santa Catarina. The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property.

In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings! There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century.

Frida and Diego Statue

In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. Behind the walls of the garden, to the south, see if you can see the rooftop of La Callejón del Aguacate. This house is one of the most haunted in the Coyoacan. It is said to be haunted by the ghost of a woman and is a frequent place where local school children will be seen ghost hunting after hours.

Barricas Don Tiburcio

Continuing along Avenue Francisco Sosa, stop in at one of the most adorable groceries stores, Barricas Don Tiburcio. This boutique shop sells the finest wines from all around Mexico, if you’re a big wine fan, they are very well versed in the different varieties and can send you home with a real winner. They also sell delicious handcrafted Mexican products such as Oaxaca cheese, grasshoppers, prickly pear candies, peanut jams, queso chihuahua and more!

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Fonoteca Nacional

Towards the end of Avenue Francisco Sosa you’ll come upon the colourful Fonoteca Nacional, also known as the “House of Sounds of Mexico“. This beautiful building and the tranquil gardens which surround it, is the perfect place to come and wander to see if anything is going on. There is often free concerts or exhibitions happening in the various rooms, so it’s worth poking your head inside to see what’s going on.

Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

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Centenario 107

After a long walk through the park, it’s time for dinner. Stop off at Centenario 107 for a laid back, colourful dinner. Colourful both in the atmosphere, decor as well as the food! There is an excellent selection of traditional delicacies as well as local craft beers and speciality mezcals.

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Cineteca Nacional

Our last stop on tour, as the sun begins to set is at the Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives. This 30 screen movie theatre is housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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The post Best Walking Tour of Historic Coyoacán, Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

It was her sanctuary but also her cage since for most of her life she was bedridden from injury and sickness. She spent more years inside these blue walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

Self-Guided Tour of Casa Azul

1. Access
2. Hours
3. Tickets & How to Avoid the Lines
4. Frida's Neighbourhood of Coyoacán
5. Biography of Frida Kahlo
6. Frida and Diego
7. Start of the Self-Guided Tour of the Casa Azul
8. Touring the Exterior
9. Entry
10. Gardens
11. The Pyramid
12. Looks are Deceiving Exhibition
13. Sitting Room / Gallery
14. Dining Room
15. Diego's Bedroom
16. The Kitchen
17. Stairwell
18. Frida's Studio
19. Day Bedroom
20. Night Bedroom

Tickets & How to Avoid the Lines

Everyone seems to go on and on about the lines at Casa Azul. And yes, there are lines. But there are also lines at the Louvre, the MET and other famous museums around the world. There are lines wherever you find places which inflame the public’s imagination and curiosity to see what’s inside. So don’t be surprised, just be prepared. The best way to do this is by purchasing your tickets in advance. You select the date and time you want to arrive. When you get to Casa Azul you hop into pre-purchased ticket line (which is much shorter). Sometimes with your pre-purchased admission, you can just walk right inside.

Tickets cost 230 pesos ($12 US) on weekdays and 250 pesos ($13 US) on weekends. If you want to take pictures and some videos, you need to pay an extra 30 pesos ($1.50 US). Videos are not allowed inside but are ok in the outdoor areas.

Frida’s Neighbourhood of Coyoacán

Coyoacán is a small, quiet neighbourhood on the southern end of the city. It was once nothing more than a humble village but as Mexico City expanded, Coyoacán was absorbed into the megacity. The name comes from the Aztec word, which means “place of coyotes.” The streets are some of the oldest in Mexico City, full of colourful colonial architecture which gives it that bohemian feeling it became synonymous for. Frida’s father, an artist and famous photographer, found this quirky neighbourhood appealing. For more on Coyoacán check out my self guided walking tour!

Biography of Frida Kahlo

Frida Kahlo is one of the best-known female artists of the 20th-century. Her art is most notable for being full of ideas about sex, death, the body, gender, postcolonialism, class and race. All these ideas culminate in some of the most fantastic surrealist paintings which are anything but ordinary. Frida was born in 1907 inside the Casa Azul. The house was built by her father in 1904 and would be an emotional touchstone for young Frida. Both her mother and father had had some horrible events in their lives before Frida was born. Her father’s previous wife died in childbirth. And her mother’s ex-lover killed himself in front of her to profess his undying love. It’s impossible not to wonder how these powerful moments imprinted themselves into the family. Perhaps resulting in Frida’s ill-fated, yet extraordinary life.

Frida’s Early Health Issues

At a young age, Frida developed polio which resulted in her being bedridden for many months. It also left her with a severe limp and one of her legs being slightly shorter than the other. Being home all the time as a child meant she was around her father. She followed him around his studio, where she learned all about the creative process and how to compose a painting. She began painting and drawing under his watchful eye. Without any sons of his own, Frida became his creative successor.

He enrolled her in an art school in 1922, where she initially met Diego Rivera who was at the time, was painting a mural in the university’s auditorium. She was enthralled with him as soon as she laid eye on him and his art. She was so sure of him being one of her conquests that and would tell her friends she was going to marry him, even before speaking one word to the artist.

The Accident

One the way home from school one day, Frida’s was caught in a severe bus accident. A train crashed into the bus she was on, and it practically exploded on impact. Various people died instantly, and a few died in the hospital. Frida was left for dead, the ambulance refused to take her to the hospital as they assumed she would be dead before they arrived. But Frida was a fighter although her injuries would leave her disabled for the rest of her life.

She underwent over 30 different significant operations. The hospital staff thought she would never be able to get out of bed again. But by the end of the month, she was taking her first steps outside. Years of surgeries and recovery meant being confined to her bed once more. Her father made her a custom easel where she could paint in bed while lying down. She used this time to paint portraits of herself, as a way to comprehend the reality of what had happened to her. As her painting improved, and she was able to walk freely, she knew she had to help her family financially. Her operations had cost them greatly, and she needed to find out if she could make a career out of her art.

Frida and Diego

Frida went with various pieces of her artwork to get a critique from the famous Diego Rivera. When she met inside him, she claimed it wasn’t to flirt or get his attention. She wanted harsh criticism from the iconic artist and learn how she could improve. Diego was quite impressed by her artwork and was immediately taken with Frida’s bold personality. Frida was not your typical beauty. She embraced her more masculine characteristics. Frida had a monobrow and a bit of a moustache, but instead of hiding it or trying to remove it, she flaunted it. Some people said that she was one of the great beauties others found her almost hideous. It was this juxtaposition of opinions that Frida loved, using her sexuality as the great divider.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

After only a short period of knowing Rivera, the two were married in 1929. Her mother and father roundly objected to the marriage, and so the two of them had a small, civil ceremony, presided over by only by a hairdresser and homeopathic doctors. Their relationship was fiery and passionate — each one is inflaming the creativity of the other. Diego encouraged Frida’s penchant for wearing traditional Tehuana dresses they both viewed them as the most authentic part of Mexican heritage. They became a kind of uniform for her, which she would wear for the rest of his life.

Frida and Diego moved into the family home, the Casa Azul, as her father was no longer able to afford to live there due to his declining career. Diego was at this point, a wealthy and well-known painter and could easily afford to keep the home in the family. Before they moved into the house, the house was painted s a rather dull colour. Frida and Diego made it their mission to repaint the entirety of the house bright blue, making their mark on this space.

Love Affairs

Diego was a womanizer, and despite Frida’s acceptance to their open relationship, she found herself overcome with jealously when Diego had an affair with her sister, Cristina. The news of their affair devastated her. Frida suffered numerous miscarriages and eventually was told by doctors due to her injuries from the bus crash she would never bear children. Painting became everything to her, and it was like her artworks became her children. Frida explored more and more images from her Mexican heritage. She said that Mexico was her great mother who raised her. As she became a painter in her own right, she was less affected by Diego’s affairs. In fact, she began having her own set of relationships with men and women alike.

The longest of her affairs was with famed photographer Nickolas Muray, with whom Diego was furiously jealous. Although Frida ended up divorcing Diego in 1939, they got remarried only a year later. It seemed that no matter what happened between these two, they could not be without each other. While it certainly was an alternative lover story, I found that to be the real charm of their relationship. It’s not perfect, it’s not a fairytale, but it’s real and laid bare for us to witness in her artworks.

Frida’s Death

Despite her blossoming career, Frida’s health began to decline. Eventually, her old injuries only worsened to the point where she had to have her right leg amputated. Her pain was almost unbearable, and she attempted suicide multiple times to escape it. Diego built for her a second floor to the Casa Azul where she could paint and work without having to leave the house.

She eventually was bound to her bed along and passed away on July 13th, 1954, at the age of 47 in that very bed. Her body was brought to the Palacio de Belles Artes in the historic centre of Mexico City where hundreds of mourners came to pay their respects. During her lifetime she was known as the wife of famed painter Diego Rivera. But today it is HER who has become a part of popular culture and art history. Diego gave the Casa Azul over to the government of Mexico City and it was opened up as a museum in 1958.

Start of the Self-Guided Tour of the Casa Azul

Touring the Exterior

If you have to wait outside before heading into the centre courtyard, take a minute to observe the outer exterior architecture.

“The house, painted blue inside and out, seems to shelter a bit of sky.”

Diego and Frida painted the house this bright blue colour when they moved in. Colour was of the utmost importance to Frida in her life and in her art. This vibrant azure was a hue associated with the feeling of freedom and expansiveness, like looking out on the eternal sea. And for a woman who was often unable to leave her own four walls, a feeling of freedom was the difference between sanity and madness. The house, built-in 1904 by her father, was built in a typical Spanish style of the age with a central courtyard surrounded by various rooms all on one level. The original exterior had a bit of French flair, but Frida removed all these gaudy elements in exchange for the primitive and simplistic decorations inspired by the indigenous people of Mexico.

Entry

As you walk in the main gates, under the giant floral ofrenda to Frida, you’ll pass under various of Frida’s papier-mâché alebrijes. Alebrijes are brightly coloured Mexican folk art sculptures of fantastical creatures. They were originally created in 1930 by the artist Pedro Linares. Linares fell gravely ill and during his fever-induced hallucinations found himself dreaming of a strange forest full of wild and colourful creatures. He saw donkeys with butterfly wings, a rooster with horns and lions with the heads of eagles, all shouting the word, “Alebrijes“. When he recovered, he set to making the creatures out of wood to bring his visions into his reality. He was good friends with Diego and Frida, and she was inspired by his story and made some for herself. These somewhat terrifying creatures, now greet all guests who come through the doors.

Gardens

The first space you’ll enter is the lush gardens. Walking in here is literally a breath of fresh air! You can smell the blossoming flowers everywhere you walk, like a scented canopy. Frida made her gardens an almost sacred space. She took care of each and every plant very seriously, almost as if they were her children. She adored watching them bloom and grow. All the plants were harvested from all across Mexico, so it’s like a tiny snowglobe of Mexican horticulture in one place. You’ll find yuccas, bougainvilleas, cacti, jasmine and agave blooming throughout the year.

Across the walls of the courtyard are various pre-Columbian idols, as Diego loved collecting these treasures of Mexican heritage. He would go to the old ruins of Teotihuacan almost every weekend in his early life looking for artefacts he could bring home with him. The walls which supported the new second story, made by Diego and Frida, were created from lava rocks and embedded shells the couple found on the shores of the beaches of Mexico.

Frida’s Teaching Career

In this garden, Frida held classes for her students. She began teaching in 1943 at Las Esmeralda Art School, but she found it too hard on her disabled body to come to classes at the school in the centre of town. Her dedicated student, dubbed “Los Fridos” would come to La Caza Azul where she could mentor them under the shade of these great palm trees. Their time with the great artist in her intimate home was something that imprinted greatly on them.

The Pyramid

In the middle of the garden is a minature, red and yellow painted replica of an Aztec pyramid. This was built by Juan O’Gorman for Diego Rivera in 1946. The artist used materials like volcanic stones and basal to build the structure. Along the base of the pyramid are various replica ceremonial statues from places like Teotihuacan or Tulum.

Looks are Deceiving Exhibition

At the back of the courtyard is an exhibition room which contains some of the most personal items of Frida Kahlo. This exhibition is entitled, ‘Las apariencias engañan‘ or Looks are Deceiving. This exhibition features a treasure trove of Frida’s clothing, corsets, makeup and jewellery. All of these items were only discovered in 2004. When Diego handed the house over to the Mexican people for use as museum he asked that several bathrooms (which has been locked) were not to be opened until many years after his death. When they opened the doors, they were shocked to find all these iconic dresses which featured in many of the most famous portraits of the painter. 

Frida’s Dresses

Her Tehuana dresses have become the iconic image of the painter. And even I wished I could have taken a few copies of them for myself! Tehuana dresses come from the Tehuantepec Isthmus located in the southeastern part of Mexico in the region of Oaxaca. Oaxaca is known the world over as being the heart of the textile industry in Mexico. The woman of the area are seen as the dominant sex, and it is mainly a matriarchal society. As such, their dresses needed to reflect this power.

Frida wanted to be seen as Diego’s artistic equal and adopting these dresses, and their accessories made her feel closer to that powerful matriarch. The clothing also helped to cover up her legs which were affected dramatically by the polio and the right left which had to be eventually amputated. The white petticoats which peek out from underneath the dresses were not only beautiful but practical as they could be detached from the rest of the gown to be washed. Since these long dresses would drag on the ground, the ability to only wash this portion of the dress was very inventive.

The Corsets

The corsets are one of the rawest and most eye-opening portions of the exhibition. They show us just how much pain this beautiful artist must have been suffering through every day, even though she forced a smile. But Frida did not only hurt physically, she also suffered emotionally. Frida’s once said of her husband’s infidelity,

“I suffered two grave accidents in my life. One in which a streetcar knocked me down. The other accident is Diego.“

She used her clothing as a defence against feeling weak and small. Instead, these clothes were loud and powerful. And wearing them made her feel this way even if underneath she did not.

Frida not only had some of the most gorgeous dresses but she also adorned her body in lush jewellery, highly embroidered footwear, and expensive perfume. When she was recovering from her multiple surgeries her wounds would fester and to cover up the smell she relied on flower headpieces and perfume to mask the smell. Even in bed, she would always be seen wearing dozens of pieces of jewellery.

Sitting Room / Gallery

Entering into the house, you first pass through what was once the old sitting room, or living room as we call it today. Here Frida and Diego would entertain their famous guests such as Nelson Rockefeller, George Gershwin, caricaturist Miguel Covarrubias, and actresses Dolores del Río and María Félix. Today, this area is used as an introduction to Frida’s life through her work. Some people have been disappointed not to see more of her artwork in the house, but you just need to set your expectations. I came in not expecting to see any at all, so I was pleasantly surprised to be able to get up close to these pieces.

Portrait of My Father, 1951 

One of the paintings Frida made in 1952, just two years before her death, was a gorgeous dedication to her father. Her father also had his fair share of suffering throughout his life. He was an epileptic who had to leave behind his family fortune in his home country to escape the Nazis as he was a Hungarian-born Jew. 

Frida and the Cesarean, Unfinished 1931

This painting depicts Frida in the hospital in Detroit after her second miscarriage. In this vision, Frida is attempting to deal with the trauma of her second failed pregnancy. This is a dream which portrays what would have happened if she had been able to carry the baby to full term and deliver it by cesarean. The child lays beside her on the bed, the image of Diego looking down on her. She was never able to finish this painting. It was nothing but a lie and she prided herself on painting what she perceived as reality. Days later, she would go on to paint “Henry Ford Hospital” which depicted the real horror of the miscarriage as it truly was.

Still Life, 1942 

Frida was a woman who embraced her sexuality, and as such her paintings are full of sexual references and illusions. This still life was painted for the Mexican presidential residence but was returned to the artist most likely due to it being a little too vulgar for the upper class. The open papaya resembles the shape of a womb. To the left, we see coral fungus resembling the ovaries, and to the right, we have an open cherimoya fruit which resembles female genitalia. While some onlookers will see nothing but a bowl of fruit, Frida was tempting her audience to open their minds and their six senses.

My Family, Unfinished 1949

This painting feels like the most appropriate piece for the setting inside their family home. It’s a family tree with her grandparents at the very top. Underneath them are Frida’s parents and herself and her siblings on the bottom. A fetus is seen in the centre of the four children. This is her brother who died only a few days after his birth. But to Frida, he is still very much a part of their family even after all these years. Three figures are unfinished to the right of the frame. These are thought to be the children of her youngest sister Cristina with whom Frida had a tumultuous relationship with after Cristina’s affair with Diego. Perhaps the fraught relationship was the cause of Frida’s inability to complete their images on the family tree. Frida being too jealous of her sister’s ability to bear children when she could not.

Viva la Vida, 1954

This was the last painting which Frida would complete before she died. It is a still life of watermelon’s, which are a popular image in Mexican art. Watermelons are seen around Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) when the fruits are eaten by the dead who return to the land of the living. Although the melons are bright and colourful, there is a thread of ominousness in their use as it feels Frida is predicting her own demise. Eights days before she died she wrote these words upon the watermelons “VIVA LA VIDA – Coyoacán 1954 Mexico” (Long Live Life!). In her diary a few days before she died she would write,

“I hope that the exit is joyful, and I hope never to return”

Retablos

One of my favourite parts of the exhibition of her artworks were her retablos. These tiny votive images were created when Frida was living in Detroit. While Diego worked on his large Detroit Industry Murals, Frida occupied herself with these creations. During the time huge, political murals were all the rage, and yet Frida was creating small, religious images. Each one of these were painted onto small metal sheets. When the society as a whole was all about grandeur, Frida was creating miniature worlds you had to get close up to really understand. In a way, you needed to become more intimate with them, unlike the murals which you could understand from afar.

Judas Figures

Inside the next room are two towering figures in papier-mâché. These are mujeres bonitos or Judas figures from Tlatilco, Mexico. These “Judas” figures would usually be made of papier-mâché and filled with firecrackers that would explode on the Saturday before Easter. This tradition was thought to cleanse ones sins by burning effigies of that which represented evil. For Frida, she collected these effigies unburnt, perhaps as a symbol of sin unburdened.

Frida’s Diary

In the last room are letters, newspaper clippings and selections of Frida’s diary, all found in the house when it was turned over to the city. Reading these lines from her journal is like sitting down with the woman herself. So often we lean on interpretations to understand what an artist was thinking or feeling, but here we have the words right from her own mouth. Her life was so fraught with sadness, and yet there is a hypnotic magic to her scribblings. Even if you can’t read Spanish, looking at the furious way in which she wrote is a way of understanding her emotional state at the time. Critiques wrote of her diary,

“The diary is the most important work Kahlo ever did…it contains energy, poetry, magic. They reveal a more universal Frida…In Kahlo’s paintings, you see only the mask. In the diary, you see her unmasked. She pulls you into her world. And it’s a mad universe.”

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Dining Room

From the large sitting room, you step into the part of the house which has been preserved with all the old furnishings and decor that Frida had collected. The first room you enter is the dining room. The floors are painted bright yellow, almost neon! Most of the tables and chairs are painted the same colour to match, making them looks as if they grew out of the floor. Despite yellow often being associated with joy and cheer, Frida had a much different interpretation. She wrote in her diary, “yellow is associated with madness, sickness and, fear. It is part of the sun and of happiness.” To see this yellow spread all over her house feels like she was attempting to invite others to share in her madness.

On the walls of the room are various, bright yellow shelves displaying Frida’s precious collections. In the 20th century, Mexican folk art was very under-appreciated in fine art collections. But Frida and Diego always saw its value and cherished collecting these items to preserve, even if just for themselves, elements of their Mexican heritage.

Guests in the Casa Azul

Around this dining table the couple entertained guests such as André Breton (French writer, poet and anti-fascist), Tina Modotti (Italian photographer, model, actress, and revolutionary political activist), Edward Weston (American photographer), Leon Trotsky (Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician), Juan O’Gorman (Mexican painter and architect), Nickolas Muray (Hungarian-born American photographer and Frida’s lover), and many others.

On the shelves, in the dining room, we find two ceramic clocks. The hands of the clock do not move but are fixed on two different moments in time. The one on the left bears the date on which Frida decided to divorce Diego after discovering he was having an affair with her sister Christina. The other has the time when Frida and Diego decided to get remarried. By having this out in the open it proves how honest they both were about the problems inside their marriage. Their issues weren’t a secret and yet, in the end, their love for each other, especially inside these walls, feels eternal.

Diego’s Bedroom

On the other side of the dining room, is Diego’s bedroom. This small guest room was also used by Leon Trotsky when he stayed in Mexico City after fleeing the Soviet Union. After he and Frida had an affair, he was quickly removed from the house by Diego. On the walls of the room, hang Diego’s painting overalls along with his iconic hats he was always seen wearing.

On the antique chair near the window is a small embroidered pillow with the words “Despierta Corazon Dormido” (Wake Up, Sleeping Heart) sewn in with rainbow thread. Words I’m sure Frida would whisper to her husband every morning upon waking him up for breakfast. Sitting on the dresser along the wall are various ancient Aztec sculptures along with Diego’s death mask. Around the room are multiple paintings, most of a highly sexualized nature, to reflect Diego’s passionate character.

The Kitchen

The kitchen is one of the most elaborately decorated rooms in the house. The kitchen floor is painted the same bright yellow with Azul and yellow tiles trimming the walls. Along the walls are hung a variety of utensils, and tableware Frida used when she cooked. Frida learned how to cook from, of all people, Diego’s ex-wife. Lupe (his ex-wife) knew all of Diego’s favourite recipes and how important food was to him. Despite Lupe’s relationship not working out, she found deep affection for Frida and wanted the best for their marriage. Along the wall are dozens of miniature clay mugs which spell out “Frida + Diego” over the old stovetop. The old stove was never modernized from its original design and Frida still cooked using the woodfire while she lived there.

On either side of the window are these same clay pots used to form the shape of two doves, tying a lover’s knot. It seems everywhere you look here there are symbols of love. They often say, a way to a man’s heart is through his stomach. Often we see the kitchen as a more utilitarian space but Frida made it a room which bursts with romance and love.

On her kitchen table are several vegetable-shaped clay tureens and terra cotta painted plates and pots. Nothing Frida used in her kitchen was mass-produced or “out of the box”. Everything was handmade and embellished with images of animals or traditional Mexican designs.

Stairwell

Moving from the first floor into the newly built second storey you pass through a small stairwell with sitting areas at the bottom. This tiny courtyard-like space is bursting with folk art objects, large paintings which crawl up the walls, taxidermied animals and some charming hand-painted pieces of furniture.

Frida’s Studio

Frida’s studio was built here because of her ever-worsening illnesses and disability. After the surgery to remove her leg, she found leaving her house to be very difficult. As such, Diego built this extension for her so that she could continue to work. The steel-framed windows are wrapped around the rooms to allow for light to pour in from the outside freely. From here, Frida could also look down into the garden, almost as if she was standing right in the middle of it. The blue of the walls on the exterior are so bright they reflects right into these rooms.

Painting Studio

Along the window is where Frida would work. She had a writing desk and an area for her easel where she would paint in her wheelchairs towards the end of her life. Today, her paints, brushes and pigments are all still laid out, as if awaiting her return. A mirror sits beside her workspaces, as she would frequently need it to paint the self-portraits she was famous for. She once said,

“I paint self-portraits because I am the person I know best. I paint my own reality. The only thing I know is that I paint because I need to and I paint whatever passes through my head without any consideration.”

Sitting on the easel in front of her wheelchair is a painting she never finished, entitled “Still Life With Flag“. Towards the end of her life, she didn’t have the same control over the brush as she once used did. Her refined techniques were not quite there but her craving to paint was unabated. The easel was actually a gift to Frida from Nelson Rockefeller who came to visit them in Mexico City before asking Diego to paint a mural for him in New York.

Book Collection

Along the walls of her studio are her collection of books. As a bibliophile, I spent way too long peering against the glass, trying to make out every single book cover and title. Kahlo, as expected, was obsessed with collecting antique books about Mexican culture and old atlas detailing the topography of the country. Inside the cabinets are also several precious items and souvenirs. When she was unable to walk, her friends would all come to visit her in bed. She would always ask them to bring something with them to remind her of the outside world. It helped with her connection to the world despite being so removed from it.

Cabinets of Curiosity

Hidden away in a cabinet are boxes and boxes of all the medications she had to take to deal with the pain she suffered from. In the cabinet are also dozens of bandages and other medical equipment. Here in her own house, it seemed like she had a mobile hospital of sorts. It’s truly incredible that in all this pain she could make so many beautiful things. I know when I’m ill I find it impossible to do almost anything. Truthfully, Frida has always been an inspiration to me during some of my more serious illnesses.

Thinking of all she managed to accomplish while suffering like she did would give me the strength I needed. On her walls of the studio is also a sizeable anatomical print of the “intra-uterine life of a fetus”. After Frida’s multiple miscarriages, she became obsessed with these images. Perhaps it was a way of processing what had happened to her. Like she was desperate to find meaning for her loss and that she wasn’t simply damned.

On the floor of this space, you’ll see several large colour trunks. These were what Frida’s clothing had been stashed away inside in those locked bathrooms.

Day Bedroom

Frida actually had two different bedrooms built for her in this space. A daytime bed and a night time bed. As the names suggest, one was made for sleeping, the other, for her to lie in while she convalesced. Frida’s bedroom was left much as it was the day she died. Her tiny, four-poster bed was installed with a mirror on top so she could still paint her own self-portraits without needing even to lift her head. You can see this mirror for yourself and picture her lying there, looking up at herself, wishing to be anywhere be there. On the walls at the foot of the bed, are a series of portraits of Lenin, Stalin, and Mao Tsetung. In the corner of the room are a pair of her old crutches.

As this was the bedroom where she would do her painting, there is still a side table with various paints and brushes at hands for her if inspiration would strike. On the wall, there is a small bookshelf with some of the books she was reading before she died. Above them a grouping of photos, one of which is a picture of herself taken by her lover photographer Nickolas Muray. Above her bed is a painting of what we can only assume is a dead child with a garland of purple poppies around the frame. Photo of children who past away were popular in the Victorian era, as a means of memorializing them. We can only assume who this child was to Frida. Perhaps it was a protector or the image of what she imagined one of her children to be if she had grown up even a little.

Death Mask

Sitting on her little daybed, wrapped in one of her favourite shawls, is Frida’s death mask. They change the shawls out throughout the year depending on the season, just as Frida herself would have changed her outfits up based on the time of year.

Night Bedroom

Her night bedroom feels a little more whimsical and, appropriately, dreamlike. Above the bed, looking down at her, instead of her own visage was a frame full of butterfly specimens given to her by Japanese-American sculptor Isamu Noguchi. When asked about her disabilities Frida would often respond, “Feet, what do I need them for? If I have wings to fly.” Up with the butterflies were also a series of hanging dolls. Perhaps Frida saw herself in these dolls, flying above the world with the butterflies.

On her bed is a pillow, embroidered like the one in Diego’s room, with the words “Do not forget me, my love.”

Across from her bed, on a laced-topped table, is a headless pre-Columbian urn which contains her ashes. The urn is in the shape of a toad, which was her nickname for Diego. Even in death, she is literally inside of him.

In her night bedroom is a large green cabinet containing an extensive collection of her childhood toys. Green to Frida represented “good, warm light” and perhaps her childhood (before her polio) was one of the most cherished times of her life. Against the wall is a tiny bench with Frida’s name and the year 1910 written upon it. It is one of the only pieces of furniture from the previous household which remains.

In the corner of the room is a green and white coat rack, with little flowers dotting the surround. Upon it is one of Frida’s extra headscarves. You can imagine Frida standing here in the natural light of the morning, putting on layer up layer of clothing, jewellery and perfume, her mask to face the day.

Stairs down to the Garden

The stairs which lead back down to the garden are located opposite her daybed. The large doorway to the garden allowed for so much natural light to flood into Frida’s room so she could better see what she was painting. The stairs lead down to the reflecting pool where I imagine Frida would have come to sit and contemplate, the sound of nothing but the birds and the wind in the trees surrounding her. The truest peace she could find.

Visiting the Casa Azul, I genuinely think is as important as anything else you’ll do in Mexico City. Even if you don’t know of Frida or even perhaps aren’t interested in her artwork, this museum is so much more than a gallery. It’s a glimpse into the life of a woman who changed the future of females artists forever. She took it upon herself to preserve and share her love of Mexican indigenous cultures. And today, the image of Frida, in her traditional colourful dress and floral headpiece, is as iconic as the Mona Lisa.

Me and my Diego

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