Our previous self-guided walking tour focused primarily on following in the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh. Van Gogh lived and worked here in Arles, and some of his most prolific works of art were made during his time in his yellow house. Featured in many of his paintings were remnants of the ancient Roman ruins of Arles, as they are hard to miss and truly a part of the fabric of this city. And just like this mesmerized Van Gogh a hundred years ago, they fascinate visitors daily. So join us as we travel back in time, long before Van Gogh, to peek into the Roman and Medieval world of Arles.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Walking Tour of Ancient Arles
2. History
3. Admission to Historical Sights
4. How To Get To Arles
5. By Train
6. Alyscamps, the Roman Necropolis
7. Tour des Mourgues
8. Théâtre Antique d'Arles
9. Arles Amphitheatre
10. Rue Voltaire
11. Amédée Pichot fountain
12. The Porte de la Cavalerie
13. Quay Marx Dormoy
14. Thermes de Constantin
15. Musée Réattu
16. Place du Forum
17. Van Gogh Café
18. Cryptoporticus 
19. The Obelisk
20. Church of St. Trophime
21. Cloître Saint-Trophime
22. Jardin Des Arts

Map of Walking Tour of Ancient Arles

History

Arles has a rich and storied history that dates back thousands of years. The Ligurians were the first known people to inhabit this area around 800 BC. In the 2nd century BC, Arles came under Roman rule, and the village flourished with the construction of the canal connecting the Mediterranean Sea to the city. The Romans sought to build huge architectural landmarks that included the Arles Amphitheatre and the Roman Theatre, which were built during this period. Both of which we can still see prominently featured in the city today. 

The Roman Era

During the Roman era of Arles, the city became a vital hub for trade due to its strategic location along the Rhône River, which made facilitating commerce and cultural exchange a breeze. As the city grew, it became the centre of arts and culture in the Roman “Provincias,” a Latin phrase which referred to the territories that the Roman Republic controlled. And where the name Provence came from.

Many Emperors frequently were drawn to the city of Arles. And even would use it as a home base during their military campaigns. Emperor Constantine I, especially favoured the city. Under his rule, the Roman Baths were built in Arles to mirror the Baths of Constantine in Rome. His son Constantine II was born in Arles, and his son Emperor Constantine III went on to declare Arles as the capital of Rome when he moved there in 408!

The Fall of Rome

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Arles continued to hold lots of power over the rest of the South of France. It was still a major center for trade and commerce along the Rhone River. But soon, its prominence was eclipsed by the ever-growing port of Marseilles. Since Marseille was located right along the Medieterran, they could accept larger ships from farther away into their ports. And before long, Arles ceased to hold any real political power. 

Admission to Historical Sights

While many of the Roman ruins can be seen, at least in part, from outside the ticketed area, visiting the interior of many of these sights is well worth the admission fee. You get up close and personal. Explore hidden interiors, and even delve below the city to see the internal structure holding it up today.

The best ticket to buy for our self-guided tour is the Pass Avantage. This gives you access to six monuments and four museums. While that might seem like a lot, it’s mainly the monuments we’re focused on, and the museums are simply a bonus. If you are planning to spend more than one day in Arles, this is great as it will allow you more time to check out the additional museums. The ticket is valid for six months, so if you prefer to split this tour into two days, you can take everything at your own pace.

Pass Avantage Price

Adults 19€ | Reduced 16€ | Free for children under 18 accompanied by a parent. You can buy your Pass Avantage at the first stop on our guided tour.

For the most up-to-date opening hours for each stop on the tour, check this handy guide.

If you don’t want to buy the monuments and instead would rather pick and choose only a few different locations to go inside, I’ve included all the individual entry prices in this post.

How To Get To Arles

By Car

Arles is easily reached by car via the N113 and A54 highways from Marseille or D570 via Avignon.

By Train

If you are staying in towns like Nimes, Avignon or Marseille, you can also opt to take the TER train. These trains run very frequently and are often even quicker than driving! But note that most small Provencal villages around Arles don’t have public transit. So, in that case, driving will be the only option.

Where to Park

One of the best spots to park, where there are lots of spaces, and it’s very central, is at the Parking du Centre. Along the Rue Emile Fassin. I’ve made sure to mark that on the map. Parking costs 2€ an hour. There is also a public washroom kiosk outside this parking lot. But remember, these require a 0.20€ coin to get use. I always make sure to carry some coins as often “public” doesn’t mean “free” in Provence.

How Long is the Walking Tour

I would recommend spending an entire day in Arles. There is much to see and do besides the stops mentioned here on this tour. You’ll want to stop for food, and there are great shopping opportunities all along the colourful and quaint streets. As mentioned above, if you are staying in Arles, you can also split this tour up at your leisure. This means less walking all at once, and it will be a slightly more relaxed few days.

Alyscamps, the Roman Necropolis

Our journey back hundreds of years to ancient Arles begins on the city’s edge. Along what was once the ancient Roman road to Aurelia. Here hides a great Roman cemetery dating back to the 4th century AD. Behind the tall iron gate and under rows of poplar trees, we find the archaic Alyscamps, a Roman Necropolis. 

“Alyscamps” is a corruption of the original Latin name Elisii Camp. In English, we call this the Elysian Fields, which in Greek mythology refers to the afterlife paradise for heroic and virtuous souls. 

History of the Alyscamps

During the Roman Empire, burials were not allowed within the city limits. Therefore, it was commonplace for the roadways leading into cities to be lined with tombs and mausoleums. The cemetery followed the Roman practice of inhumation. Inhumation dates back at least to the Middle Paleolithic period. The oldest form of inhumation was done by hollowing out a trench in the ground and covering the body with rocks and dirt.

But for the Romans, buried their deceased in the ground inside stone tombs or sarcophagi. The burial ground accommodated various social classes, from common citizens to prominent figures of the time. This included everyone from military officers to merchants. Strolling down the main road, you can still see hundreds of these old sarcophagi and tombs lining the ancient Roman road. Stop to look at some of the details which can still be seen on these tombs, which are almost over 2000 years old.

The Saints of the Alyscamp

With the spread of Christianity, the Alyscamps gained even greater significance. This was largely because Saint Genesius was buried here after his beheading and subsequent martyrdom. Saint Trophimus, the first Bishop of Arles, was also buried here. With these high-profile burials, people from all over the country started to want to have the honour of being buried here. The Rhone River became somewhat of a burial highway. Families had their loved ones shipped on boats in from all over Europe to be buried in such a distinguished cemetery. And tombs had to be stacked three layers deep to accommodate the influx.

The Decline of Alyscamps

But in 1152, Saint Trophimus’ relics were moved to the Arles cathedral. This was the start of the end for the Alyscamps. Having lost its most important “resident,” its popularity dried up. And within a hundred years, the site was abandoned, and the tombs were systematically looted. Sarcophagi were given as gifts to distinguished visitors of the city. And many of the gravestones were dismantled to use as building materials. Some sarcophagi were even used as water troughs for cattle.

Van Gogh’s Alyscamps

But the Alyscamps never lost its natural beauty. And during the 19th century, the locals started to use it as a public park. Here they could stroll and remark on the ancient graves still present in the rubble. It was a favourite spot for Van Gogh when he lived in Arles. He even made a point to bring his fellow painting partner Paul Gaughin to the Alyscamps. Here each one made their own interpretation of the site’s picturesque and evocative atmosphere. To learn more about Van Gogh’s time in Arles, read our dedicated Van Gogh-ian Self-Guided Tour of Arles.

The Eglise Saint Honorat

Saint Honorat was Archbishop of Arles in the 3rd century. When he died in 429 AD, his tomb became a prominent pilgrimage site for the early Christians. In the mid-11th century, a Romanesque church was built inside Les Alyscamps and named after him. Much of the old church has fallen into ruins, but the east and west aisles still survive today. As well as the massive lantern tower that dominated the skyline inside.

The building has almost entirely been left to the elements, and yet there are so many aspects of the original architecture that you can study inside. It’s a forgotten treasure, and even without being covered in stained glass and lavish ornamentation, there is such an earnest beauty to this church.

Individual Entry Price for Les Alyscamps: 5€

Tour des Mourgues

Walk northwest along Avenue des Alyscamps. On the northwest corner of Boulevard Emile Combes, you’ll see a great stone wall called the Tour des Mourgues. The Mourgues Tower is the most well-preserved of the circular towers that flanked the city’s defensive ramparts. The tower gets its name from the nearby monastery founded by Bishop Césaire in the 6th century. The monastery was the primary residence of nuns (called morgues in Latin.) Initially, The tower was circular but modified in the 14th to this more octagonal appearance.

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Théâtre Antique d’Arles

Walk along Mnt Vauban street, turning up the Rue de la Calade as it curves around the back of the iconic Roman Theatre. Built in the 1st century BC, this well-preserved theatre was built to accommodate up to 8,000 spectators! The theatre was constructed during the reign of Emperor Augustus. Unlike the Colosseum or Roam Amphitheatre, which were the centre of gladiatorial events, this building served as a venue for various theatrical performances. Much lighter and less violent entertainment for the Roman public to enjoy.

History of the Roman Theatre of Arles

The theatre’s design resembles a Roman amphitheatre which has been cut in half. Rows and rows of tiered seating are wrapped around the stage in a semi-circular shape. The structure is built into the side of a hill, maximizing its acoustics and providing excellent views of the stage from all angles. Originally, the would have been a wooden roof and a large rear wall at the back of the stage. Today, only the orchestra section, seating rows, and two large Corinthian columns survive. Little more than a few pieces of rubble remain of the once impressive rear wall, which would have acted as a theatrical backdrop for the actors.

As a Roman citizen of Provence, you could attend everything from theatrical plays, musical performances, poetry readings, and political and religious gatherings here in the Roman Theatre. Just as theatre is today, this place would have been essential to the town’s social and cultural life.

Like many other ancient Roman structures, the theatre gradually disappeared during the Middle Ages. Over the centuries, parts of the theatre were repurposed for other constructions. The ruins were later rediscovered and excavated during the 19th and 20th centuries.

Today, this theatre is still used for the very same purpose it once was, to host musical and theatrical events. When we visited, they were performing a soundcheck for the concert later that evening. The scaffolding of the lighting rig carefully places around the stone outline of the old stage. It is so nice to see these sites still in use today, rather than simply being a relic of a bygone era.\

Individual Entry Price for Roman Theatre of Arles: 9€

Arles Amphitheatre

Make your way back onto the Rue de la Calade onto the Rue Porte de Laure, which wraps around the giant arches of the majestic Arles Amphitheatre. The Arles Amphitheatre dates back to 90 AD. The Arena was primarily used for hosting various public spectacles and gladiatorial games. This enormous Arena could hold an estimated 20,000 spectators.

Gladiatorial Events

Gladiatorial contests were a central part of Roman entertainment. These events served to entertain and satisfy the masses while also reinforcing the power and authority of the Roman Empire. These battles were thrilling and often brutal spectacles in the Roman amphitheatre. 

Gladiators in Arles were typically slaves, prisoners of war, or condemned criminals who were forced to fight to the death for the audience’s amusement. These fighters were trained in specialized gladiator schools, known as ludi, where they honed their combat skills and developed signature fighting techniques.

The spectacles in Arles included various forms of combat, such as one-on-one duels, group battles, and even confrontations with wild animals like lions and bears. The contests were often organized and sponsored by wealthy individuals or the Roman government to gain popularity and political influence.

As social attitudes changed, the demand for such violent spectacles waned. And by the 5th century AD, the tradition of gladiatorial games in Arles began to fade, and the amphitheatre was eventually repurposed for other activities. 

Amphitheatre in the Middle Ages

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the theatre’s purpose shifted. In the Middle Ages, it was transformed into a fortress to protect the inhabitants of Arles. Four towers were added to either side of the fortress to keep a lookout over the city. Houses, stables, and workshops were built right into the arches of the arena. It was indeed a town within a town, with a square where the arena once stood. There was even a chapel inside. If you look closely at the walls when you enter, you can still see holes where different structural supports were installed to build two-story houses inside the archways.

Arena Layout

Entering this elliptical-shaped amphitheatre, you can really appreciate how this is a masterpiece of Roman engineering and architecture. It measures about 136 meters long and 109 meters wide, and its exterior reaches a height of around 21 meters.

The structure consists of two levels of arches, a grand entrance, and a complex system of corridors, galleries, and staircases that allow easy access for spectators. You can access almost all these areas today with your entry ticket. Allowing you to really get a feel of the entirety of the arena.

The Interior

While the main attractions were gladiatorial contests, other events included mock sea battles, animal hunts, and public executions. Climb to the top of the Arena for the most incredible panoramic views of the city and the surrounding countryside.

Bullfighting

In the 19th century, efforts were made to restore and protect this iconic structure. But instead of hosting Gladitorial events, it was repurposed into a bullfighting arena. Bullfighting in Provence is known as “Course Camarguaise.” It differs from the well-known Spanish-style bullfighting in that the bull is not killed in the theatre. Moreover, the focus is on the agility and daring of the participants rather than inflicting harm on the animal.

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During Course Camarguaise, agile and skilled participants, known as “raseteurs,” attempt to remove small tassels or rosettes attached to the bull’s horns. The raseteurs use a claw-shaped hook called a “raset” to try to grab them. The objective is to demonstrate their bravery and deftness in evading the charging bull while trying to collect as many rosettes as possible. All the while dressed in spectacular costumes that sparkle and shine in the sun and impress a captive audience. Van Gogh himself loved to frequent these events and even captured a vibrant scene in the arena of spectators viewing the bullfighting games.

Individual Entry Price Arles Amphitheatre: 9€

Rue Voltaire

After finishing touring the Amphitheatre, take a walk away along the Rue Voltaire. But sure to look back down the street towards the Amphitheatre as I loved this framed view of it.

The Rue Voltaire is an adorable cobblestone street flanked on all sides by charming shops, crawling ivy, and those classical Provencal brightly painted window shutters. This is the perfect place to grab a bit to eat, as the people-watching opportunities along this road are unmatched. 

Bistrot le Mistral is a great choice for a hyper-local French menu that changes daily. Don’t let the handwritten chalkboard menu scare you away. Chalkboards are the best indication that the food is fresh, as it signals the dishes change with the season or, indeed, with the daily whims of the chef! For such artistic French plating, the prices are very affordable. A must-check out while you’re in town

Amédée Pichot fountain

Returning to the road, stop to admire the incredible Amédée Pichot fountain, found at the intersection of Rue Amédée Pichot and Rue Voltaire. This elegant fountain and accompanying mosaic were built in honour of the 19th-century journalist and writer Amédée Pichot. The installation was a love letter from Pierre-Amédée Pichot to his father. When his father was alive, he purchased a monumental painting from French artist Paul Balze at his salon in Paris. The painting was an allegory of poetry inspired by a painting by Raffaello. Before Amédée Pichot died, he wanted to gift the painting to the people of the city of Arles. So they could enjoy its beauty instead of the painting being cooped up inside his house. But the city couldn’t find an appropriate location, and his dream was abandoned.

After his father died, Pierre-Amédée Pichot was driven to accomplish the goal that his father had abandoned. On a recent visit to Paris, he was inspired by the fountain outside the Place Saint Michel, which stood on the exterior of a large wall. Pierre managed to buy the house on the corner along Rue Voltaire to use its prominent exterior to build this monument. But you can’t simply hang a painting outside in the elements. So instead, he had a great reproduction artist reproduce the painting on enamel ceramic tiles. Now the painting is preserved in enamel and hanging in such a place of honour. Drawing the eyes of all those who pass it by.

The Porte de la Cavalerie

At the end of the Rue Voltaire stands the great Porte de la Cavalerie, also known as the Cavalry Gate. This ancient Roman gate was where people would have entered the city for the first time along the long road to Arles. The enormous, crumbling, stone defensive walls date back to the 3rd century AD. Sturdy stone towers on either side of the arched opening are called the “barbicans.” They were designed to reinforce the gate’s defensive capabilities, allowing guards and soldiers to monitor and defend the entrance effectively.

Quay Marx Dormoy

Walk through the gates and turn west along the Quay Marx Dormoy, which curves around the famous Rhone River. René Marx Dormoy was a French politician. During his tenure as mayor, he played a significant role in French politics and administration, advocating for social reforms and progressive urban development. Dormoy’s commitment to public service and contributions left a lasting impact on the communities he served, and he is given pride of place here in Arles with such a picturesque pathway named after him.

Wander along the riverside walk for a few minutes. Gazing out at the exquisite landscape which wraps around the river. The Rhône River holds immense historical importance to Arles, shaping its identity and playing a pivotal role in its development over the centuries. During the Roman Empire, the river connected Arles to the rest of the Empire. With goods being both imported and exported from this thoroughfare.

Post-Roman Empire, the river continued as a vital trade route connecting the city to the Mediterranean Sea. Goods, such as agricultural produce, textiles, and luxury items, passed through this waterway. Today, the river is no longer a busy port, with huge freight ships landing in Marseille. But you’ll be able to watch dozens of River Cruise boats gently floating on the water, taking in the sights of this majestic waterway.

Starry Night Over the Rhône

One of the most prolific reasons people view this part of the river is to study the inspiration for Vincent Van Gogh’s famous paintings, Starry Night Over the Rhône. His home in Arles, the Yellow House, was just around the corner, and it was right here where he came to immortalize the river forever.

The painting features a starry night sky filled with a vibrant and swirling mix of blues and yellows. The brushstrokes are bold and expressive, making the scene almost turbulent. The stars appear to twinkle and dance across the canvas. Hidden in the bottom right corner, we can see a couple taking a leisurely stroll along the riverbank. Just like we are doing today!

Thermes de Constantin

A small staircase leads you down away from the Quay towards the Rue du Grand Prieuré. As you make your way down, you are met with a large curved brick wall. This is the exterior of the great Thermes de Constantin. The Thermes de Constantin, also known as the Baths of Constantine, is an ancient Roman bath house.

Built in the 4th century AD, the Thermes de Constantin was named in honour of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great. When we hear the word “bath” today, we think of a small, plastic or enamel tub meant for one person. But during the Roman Empire, public baths were an enormous structure where dozens, if not hundreds, of people could come together. Bathing back then was not just to maintain your personal hygiene, but it was also great. For Romans, bathhouses were a social and cultural center where people from all walks of life would gather, relax, and socialize.

Using a Roman Bath House

Roman baths were grand, impressive structures. Stepping inside, you can walk around the space on raised platforms to really appreciate the grandeur of the building. While most of the decoration has been lost to time, imagine for yourself as you walk through the now-barren interior with stunning mosaic decorations and intricate marble sculptures. These were all meant to showcase the opulence and grandeur of Rome. The walls would have been adorned with frescoes depicting scenes from mythology, everyday life, and the glories of the Roman Empire.

Visitors would enter through an imposing entrance hall known as the frigidarium, which led to a series of interconnected rooms offering different temperature baths. These rooms included the tepidarium (warm room) and the caldarium (hot room), equipped with underfloor heating systems known as hypocausts. You can still see several of these underfloor heating systems today; look for the signs that point it out.

Roman baths were not only for physical relaxation but also hubs for intellectual and cultural exchange. Philosophical discussions, debates, and other social interactions would occur within these spaces.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 5€

Musée Réattu

Leaving the Roman Baths, you can opt to visit the Musée Réattu just down the street. Entry to the Musée Réattu is included in the Pass Avantage. If you’re not an avid art fan, you can skip this stop. But the museum is very small, so even if you just want to peek inside to see a few pieces, you won’t spend very much time inside.

The Musée Réattu is housed in a former 15th-century priory. Exploring some of the historic parts of the building is one of the best reasons to stop here. The museum primarily showcases the world of Jacques Réattu, an influential French artist who was born in Arles. Réattu’s artistic journey took him from his hometown to the vibrant Paris art scene. It was in Paris that he gained recognition for his exceptional painting. But he never forgot about his beloved home of Arles. While Van Gogh might be the biggest name to have worked in Arles, Réattu is the homegrown pride of the city.

Réattu’s artistic repertoire encompassed various subjects, from historical and mythological themes. His works often exhibited a harmonious blend of classicism and romanticism, with a keen attention to detail and a deep understanding of human emotions.

Picasso’s Arlesienne

Also included in the museum’s collection is a series of eight portraits painted by Picasso of his muse Jacqueline Roque, dressed as an Arlesienne. The term “Arlesienne” was often used to describe the traditional costume worn by women in the Arles region in the 19th century. This traditional dress typically includes a white or light-coloured blouse, a full black skirt, and an elaborate, intricately embroidered black velvet bodice. The outfit is completed with a headdress adorned with ribbons and flowers, which vary depending on the occasion. The Arlesienne has become an enduring symbol of Provencal and was also frequently painted by Gaugin and Van Gogh.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 8€

Place du Forum

From the museum, let’s meander down toward the Place du Forum. Turn left onto Rue Dominique Maisto, then right onto Rue du Sauvage, leading into Rue de la Place. The Place du Forum is a picturesque, vibrant square steeped in history and surrounded by charming cafes and shops.

The Place du Forum is named after the Roman Forum that once stood a few blocks away. Today, remnants of the ancient Roman city can still be seen embedded into the walls of the square. Look closely at the building on the corner, now the Nord-Pinus Hotel. You can see it embedded in the hotel are two Roman Corinthian columns. These tall columns once supported a Roman temple that occupied this space. 

A Corinthian column can be recognized immediately by its elaborate capitals decorated in acanthus leaves arranged in a spiral pattern, surrounding a central bell-shaped element called the “abacus.” 

Van Gogh Café

At the heart of the Place du Forum stands the iconic Le Cafe La Nuit. Better known as the Van Gogh Café. This café features a bright yellow facade, believed to be the same café that inspired Van Gogh’s famous artwork, “Café Terrace at Night.”

While the cafe might stand in the same spot as the original cafe from the painting, the ownership has changed hands many times. And today, the cafe sadly has a poor reupitation as a tourist trap. If you want to stop for an aperitif, consider L’Apostrophe Restaurant two doors down instead. If you can snag a spot outside, you have a beautiful view of the Yellow Cafe without the tourist trap prices and poor-quality food and service. After all this walking, you’ll definitely have deserved a sweet aperitif.

Cryptoporticus 

Continue your journey towards the Cryptoporticus of the Roman Forum. This spot is just a few blocks from the Place du Forum. You must enter the old Town Hall of Arles to get inside. Once inside, you’ll find the entrance to the underground passageway. 

The Cryptoportiques d’Arles, also known as the Arles Cryptoporticus, dates back to the 1st century BC. These underground vaults were constructed to serve various functions, including supporting the enormous Roman Forum above. The Cryptoportiques consist of a network of underground galleries and corridors. These galleries are supported by a series of arches and pillars, characteristic of Roman architectural engineering. The ceilings of the passageways are vaulted, allowing for the even distribution of weight and enhancing the structure’s stability. Walking around in the dark, you feel like you’ve entered a labyrinth, and perhaps a minotaur lurks around the next corner…

The walls and pillars of the Cryptoportiques were made using locally sourced stone, primarily limestone and sandstone. The choice of these durable materials contributed to the fact that this part of Roman Arles has been so pristinely preserved today. Since the temperature was much cooler in these underground passages, the Cryptoportiques were also employed as storage space.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 5€

The Obelisk

After returning to street level, head out the doors from the city hall, which leads onto the Place de la République, the heart of the historic city center. Standing in the centre of the square is the monumental Obélisque d’Arles. The Obélisque d’Arles is one of the oldest surviving Roman obelisks in France. Standing approximately 15 meters (about 49 feet) in height. The Obelisk is made of reddish-pink granite, not native to France. This means that the Obelisk would have been brought in as far as Asian Minor in the region of Troy.

This majestic Obelisk dates back to the 4th century AD, although when it was first installed in the city, it stood in the centre of the Roman circus. A Roman circus, also known as “circus maximus” in Latin, was a large, elongated, and open-air venue used primarily for chariot racing, one of ancient Rome’s most popular and thrilling forms of entertainment. 

When the Roman circus was demolished, the Obelisk collapsed or was knocked down. Breaking it into two different parts. It wasn’t until 1389 that the Obelisk was discovered and brought into the Amphitheatre to be displayed. In 1676, Louis XIV decreed it should be moved into the town square. And four engravings dedicated to the glory of Louis XIV were added. The decorative base was added in the 19th century, along with the fountain’s basin and surrounding bronze lion head water spouts.

Church of St. Trophime

On the east side of the town square stands the great Church of St. Trophime.  While the majority of the church we see today was completed in the 12th century, such an extraordinary structure took time to complete, and there are elements from the 11th century and even earlier still to be found throughout.

The church is named for Saint Trophimus, one of the early Christian saints and the first bishop of Arles. Originally the church was named Saint Stephen, but in 972, the relics of Saint Trophimus were reinterred, and the church was renamed in his honour.

Its exterior facade, adorned with exquisite Romanesque carvings, is a magnificent example of medieval artistry and storytelling through art. Back in the medieval era, peasants were barely literate. Communicating these religious ideas and stories through art and imagery was paramount.

The Portal

The elaborate portal, known as the “Portal of the Last Judgment,” is the doorway through which visitors have entered the church for hundreds of years. For our purposes on this tour of Roman art and architecture in Arles, you should note how the archway leading into the church is reminiscent of a Roman triumphal arch.

The Tympanum

In the semi-circle above the doorway is the tympanum. Here we can see the image of Christ, seated, holding the Bible on his knees. On either side of him are found animals representing the four evangelists. The winged lion for Saint Mark, an angel for Saint Matthew, an eagle for Saint John and a winged bull for Saint Luke. Surrounding the archivolt (a moulding that frames the arch) is a choir of angels with vivid expressions; you can hear them singing.

Lintels and Pilasters

The lintel, the band of stone that runs under the tympanum, depicts the souls of the dead in a The souls on the left are dressed in fine garb procession bound for judgement. The souls on the left (the righteous) march towards the centre, led by an angel with outstretched wings towards the twelve apostles. They are seated in the centre, holding a book on their knees, ready for judgment. On the right, we have the souls of the damned, who have been turned away as they walk naked and chained toward their doom.

The pilasters that support the lintel are also very interesting, and it’s worth studying the intricate carvings on their base. Evil beasts and monsters torment the souls of the damned. And the huge face of Samson’s slain lion is almost wrapped around the base of the column. These tormented scenes are contrasted above, with the column capitals covered in various decorative elements like acanthus leaves, foliage, and vegetal motifs, almost like they depict heaven and hell throughout this imagery.

Outer Frieze

A frieze behind the pilasters depicts the major saints of the Church, including Saint Stephen and Saint Trophime. You can spot Saint Trophime on the left dressed in his episcopal costume holding a curved cane, a Crozier, in his hand. He is also seen being crowned two angles.

If you look closely, there is a secondary frieze above the apostles which illustrates the childhood of Christ. Starting with the Annunciation made to Mary, the dream of Joseph into the Massacre of the Innocents and the Flight to Egypt and finally, the Nativity.

Interior

Entry into the church’s interior is free, but the St. Trophime Cloisers, located next door, require an admission fee. Thankfully if you purchased the Pass Avantage, this is included in your pass. We will explore the cloisters after briefly walking through the church’s interior.

Aubusson Tapestries

Entering the church, we can tell right away that this is a romanesque construction. The columns are thick and rudimentary. Lacking the lightness of many later gothic churches. There is a heavy atmosphere inside. The stoney interior of the church is lacking in carved decorations. Several side chapels were rebuilt during the Gothic periods, as these are doubtlessly the most elaborate designs inside the church. To add some interest to the austere church, tapestries were hung on the blank walls. These date back to the 17th century and illustrate scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.

Early Christian sarcophagi

Throughout the church, see if you can spot the three early Christian sarcophagi that were brought to the church from their original resting place in Les Alsycamps. Unlike the remaining tombs in Les Alsycamps, these sarcophagi are covered in complicated and precise carvings. They almost appear architectural in their design, comprising arches, pilasters and niches that frame tiny figures representing various biblical stories. The earliest of these tombs dates to the 4th century, although they only made this church their resting place in the 19th century.

Chapel of Saint-Genès

Make a point to stop at the chapel of Saint-Genès to the north of the transept. This is where one of the old sarcophagi is held and where you can find a beautiful white marble statue of the Virgin Mary. This statue was originally placed in the Saint-Honorat-des-Alyscamps and is a great example of the beautiful decorations that would have once adorned the church we saw at the start of this tour.

Reliquary chapel

My favourite part of the church is the reliquary chapel. Hidden behind a filagree wrought-iron gate, under a blue-painted ceiling with stars dotting the sky, are dozens of golden reliquaries. A reliquary is a container to house and display relics, which are objects or remains believed to have a special connection to a saint or religious figure. These reliquaries are stunning works of art all on their own. The most important of these reliquaries is that of Saint Trophimus, patron of the church. But you can also see reliquary for Saint Stephen, Saint Anne, and even the Mother of Mary.

Cloître Saint-Trophime

Exiting the church, walk back onto the square and pass through the Palais de l’Archevêché. This leads you into an interior courtyard where you’ll find the entrance to the Cloître Saint-Trophime. Initially, the church would have been connected to these cloisters, but since the cloisters now require a ticketed entry, this side entrance was constructed to filter guests into the building here. Walking through this courtyard, be sure to admire the exquisite vantage point you have here to gaze up at the old Romanesque church tower.

History of Cloître Saint-Trophime

The Cloître Saint-Trophime was built during the 12th and 13th centuries. It served as the monastery’s private quarters for the canons of Saint-Trophime. It was a place for them to gather for prayer, contemplation, and meditation. Providing a quiet and peaceful sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Surrounding the cloisters are a dormitory, refectory and dining hall were also built where the canons could continue their private life outside the church. But just as these buildings were being constructed, the Counts of Provence moved from Arles to Aix and much of the wealth that the city had been used to dissipated.

Another big hit to the continued construction of the Cloisters was in 1348 when the Black Death came to Provence, vastly reducing the population of almost every infected. When the canons filled the cloister, these buildings became granaries and storehouses for food. As such, when you visit the dormitory, refectory and dining hall interiors, you’ll notice a difference in the style of these buildings.

The highlight of the cloister is its exquisite arcades adorned with elaborately sculpted capitals. These capitals depict various biblical scenes and religious figures. Each is intricately carved with meticulous detail.

Interior Courtyard

West Gallery

You enter through the gallery’s west portions into a space built around 1375. The southern and western galleries, built later in the construction of the cloisters, are Gothic, whereas the north and east galleries are Romasnaques.

The images on the columns here are devoted to religious figures and scenes popular in Provence. You” find the story of Samson slaying the lion, the stoning of St. Stephen, Mary Magdalene kissing Christ’s feet and the Coronation of the Virgin.

North Gallery

Each section of the cloisters is divided into the north, south, east and west galleries. The North Gallery’s main themes you can keep your eyes looking to spot as you stroll through the cloister. This is the resurrection of Christ and the glorification of the patron saints of the city, Saint Trophime and Saint Stephen.

Saint Trophime

To find Saint Trophime, head to the northwest corner of the cloisters. He stands with his right palm facing the viewer while the left holds onto his curved crook, although the top of the cane has since been broken off and lost to history. On his right and left, respectively, are Saint Peter and Saint John. Saint Peter sent Saint Trophime to Gaul, now modern-day France, to evangelize the people there and become Archbishop of Arles.

Above the doorways, you can make out the coat of arms carved onto the lintel. This image represents the coat of arms of Arles. You can see an eagle with spread wings wide; this symbolized the Holy Roman Emperor, who at the time ruled Arles.

Eastern Gallery

The eastern gallery columns focus on the passion of Christ. Throughout the carvings, you can see the Christ being flogged bare-chested while tied to a column. Judas is also widely represented here, carrying the purse of coins given to Judas in exchange for his betrayal and that fateful kiss. We also can spot scenes from the last supper.

South Gallery

The south gallery features columns telling how Saint Trophime became a saint. You can see depictions of St. Trophime and Christ himself blessing the Alyscamps, the miracles they performed, and even how they brought a knight back to life! See if you can spot the scene of falsely accursed men being hanged on the gibbet who were saved by Saint Trophime. And faced with this miracle, King Charlemagne was forced to set them free.

Be sure to take a walk inside the old stone dormitory building. Despite being completely empty, it’s worth entering to admire the ethereal glow of the tiny yet intricately painted, stained glass window that cast a golden glow into the room.

Heading to the second level, you can walk around the upper deck, which wraps around the lower level’s courtyard. From this vantage point, you have a stunning view of the cloisters below and an exquisite view of the old Romanesque Bell tower of the adjoining church.

Individual Entry Price the Cloisters: 6€

Jardin Des Arts

The cloisters are where we end the historical walking tour of Arles. But if you’re in search of the perfect on-theme place to enjoy a final meal in Arles, make your way to the Jardin Des Arts restaurant. This restaurant is located inside a 13th-century cloister. The Order of the Trinitarians founded their church here in 1198. And built a beautiful cloister and gardens where they lived and worked.

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During the Revolution, the property was abandoned and partially destroyed. All that remained was the nave and some parts of the old cloister galleries. Thanks to the restaurant’s efforts, many remaining spaces have been restored and transformed into stunning restaurants. You can eat inside below the old vaults or outside on their charming outdoor terrace, where you can relax amongst the beautiful greenery. The menu features some classic French dishes, but if you’ve never tried Daube, this is a wonderful place to try this Provencal classic.

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As you drive back to your home base or enjoy your dinner on the terrace, I hope you reflect on the wonderful journey we have taken into the ancient past of Arles. Hopefully, this tour allowed you to imagine yourself in the fascinating world of gladiators, emperors, and Roman antiquities. And that you leave Arles with a new sense of appreciation for all the people of this city who have helped preserve their past for generations to come.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Historical Walking Tour of Ancient Arles first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

My favourite places to shop when travelling are stores that have a history. A rich tapestry of time that makes everything they sell so important! Most of these businesses have been open for multiple generations and represent the best of that country. Things which people have come to love for years and years, so you know it’s the good stuff! It is like taking a piece of history home with you! So come with us now to discover my favourite Historic Shops and the souvenirs to buy which are so much more interesting for your friends and family than any beard oil or robe will ever be! Many of these shops have online stores so even if you’re not travelling there directly, you can still buy something really special for Christmas.

Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy | Florence, Italy

Stepping into the Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy is about as close to going back in time as you’ll get. The old shop in Florence prides itself on being the world’s oldest pharmacy, which opened in 1221! Back then, there was a small Dominican Order who lived in the connecting Church of Santa Maria Novella. Like many orders of monks, they had their own herb gardens where they grew a variety of medicinal plants. Using these plans, the monks created herbal concoctions and started selling them to the public. Their treatments actually worked for minor, everyday nuisances like stomach pains and headaches. Even today, many people still use herbal treatments to help with their body ailments. But also created from these herbs and fresh flowers were sensational (literally) perfumes.

The Perfumerie

In 1612 an official retail operation was opened where they began selling items aside from medicine. Everything from perfume to potpourri and other toiletries could be created from their ancient garden. Today, you can still purchase the very same perfumes as medieval Florentines wore back in 1621! The Acqua della Regina scent uses the same recipe the Dominican monks made in 1533 for Caterina de Medici. Caterina de Medici commissioned the perfume when she married Enrico di Valois and moved to France. The fresh citrus bouquet helped remind her of home when she was far away. And as we all know, smell is perhaps the best wall to recall a memory.

Angeli di Firenze is a more recent fragrance inspired by the Florentine people. The “Angels of Florence” were a group of young people who came to the aid of the entire city after a devastating flood in 1966. The banks of the Arno river broke, flooding the city. But the flooding was not just water, but thick destructive mud. Some areas were entrenched up to 22 feet deep. Museums, churches and other historic sites were on the brink of losing precious relics, but these young people worked 24 hours a day to ensure they saved all that needed to be rescued. The fragrance was created on the 40th anniversary of the flood and contains a bouquet of sweet, fruity notes. A polar opposite to those muddy smells the workers must have experienced. I wear this perfume anytime I want to feel like a hero!

Livraria Bertrand | Lisbon, Portugal

Inside the blue Azulejo tiled building in the centre of Lisbon, hides the oldest bookstore in the world! Opened in 1732, in the shopping district of Chiado, Livraria Bertrand welcomed people into their store to browse their incredible selection of books. Sadly, their original store was destroyed in 1755 during a devastating earthquake. They had to move out temporarily but were able to move back into their original location in 1773. It only took them 20 years to restore the store back to its former glory!

For over a hundred years, this place has been a favourite hangout of Portuguese writers. Walking inside, you feel like you’re entering an ancient cave. Look up to admire the ancient brick vaults and arched ceilings. Although most of the books they carry here are in Portuguese, they also have a small English section with popular titles. If you buy a book at the store, they will give you a sticker to place inside the book to show that you purchased it at the oldest bookstore in the world.

Even if you don’t want to buy a book, there is a cute little cafe at the back of the shop where you can sit inside and enjoy looking at all the pretty titles stacked on tall wooden shelves. Bookstores and libraries are some of the most peaceful places in the world and are the best place to come for a bit of downtime amid busy travel days.

Pfunds Molkerei | Dresden, Germany

I’ve been singing the praises of Dresden ever since my first visit! It was such a surprising town and the discovery of this place was just one of the many joyful stops we made along the way. Pfunds Molkieri, covered floor to ceiling in the most incredible tiles and Meissen porcelain, is the oldest dairy shop in East Germany. It was built back in 1879 and was the first place where Germans could buy high-quality, concentrated milk. Although the dairy was mostly destroyed in WWII, the family made sure to rebuild in the exact same fashion as the original. Now, visitors can come to see and taste the extraordinary delicacies inside Pfunds Molkieri. 

Guests can try different kinds of milk and cheeses from farms across Germany. Bringing home cheese as a gift for a loved one might prove pretty difficult. Not only does it requires refrigeration but most international countries will not allow you to bring in dairy products through customs. Luckily, Pfunds Molkieri also carries a wonderful selection of milk soaps made from that same famous herd of German cows. Milk soaps are gentle on the skin, a natural exfoliant, help prevent acne and are rich in nutrients! A wonderful stocking stuffer for your Christmas morning.

Maiasmokk | Tallinn, Estonia

Located in the historic quarter of Tallinn, Maiasmokk (which means ‘Sweet tooth‘) is the oldest café in Estonia. The regal cafe has been in operation since 1864. Inside, the interior feels so sumptuous. Like having a coffee in Versaille! The intricate ornate mirrored ceiling reflects the gorgeous old tiled floors, and rich wooden furnishings. The cafe is a true slice of history as it has remained unchanged for almost a century.

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While Maiasmokk serves all the coffees and teas you’d expect, its most popular item is marzipan. The cafe even features a museum dedicated to the history of marzipan. In the 19th century, this was where the Russian Imperial family came to get their marzipan. The almond-based sugary treat lasts forever, making it a great gift to bring home!

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Tsuen Tea | Uji, Japan

When you think of Japan, one of the first things that you might think of is a cup of green tea. And in Uji, Japan (just outside Kyoto), you can visit the world’s oldest tea shop, Tsuen Tea. Tsuen Tea opened here in 1160, although the building which you can visit today is a later construction from 1672.

The Tsuen family were descendants of a great samurai who was the guardian of the ancient Uji Bridge. The family lived adjacent to the bridge and opened a small tea shop next door where they would greet travellers. And serve them tea. Inside the Edo period shop, you can still see ceramic tea jars that are several hundred years old sitting along the shelves. Be sure to pay your respects to the old Tsuen samurai, whose wooden statues still stands proudly inside on display.

Legatoria Piazzesi | Venice, Italy

Tucked away in on the Campiello Feltrina San Marco is Venice‘s oldest paper shop; Legatoria Piazzesi. This old stationary shop has been making paper-based wonders since 1851. It is still in operation today and offers onsite book-binding services as well as hand-printed sheets of ornamented paper. The ornate handmade papers are so beautiful they could simply be placed in a frame as they look like a work of art. But even better, they can be used by intrepid journalists and scrapbookers.

The owners are pretty strict, and this is a place where you should only enter if you intend to buy something. For those who just prefer to browse, stick to peeking in the windows. They always have lovely displays of their bookbinding, and you can usually poke your head inside the door to at least check out the stock of papers overflowing from all the shelves. This isn’t done out of malice. Handmade paper is super delicate, and now that the shop is somewhat of a tourist destination, they don’t want any overcrowding. The store is tiny and their products can easily be damaged.

Il Marmoraro | Rome, Italy

All along Via Margutta you might spot unique stone signs to mark the various restaurants and shops along the street. These are all created inside Il Marmoraro. The owners have been here making custom-made signs for over 60 years! But the tradition of these stone signs dates back hundreds of years. In ancient Rome, legislative acts were written on bronze tablets and then displayed on Capitol Hill. These old tablets had a very distinct ancient roman style script. This became the defacto “font” used in Rome. It went to be inscribed on stone columns, gravestones and even street sights. And today, Il Marmoraro keeps up the tradition, still making signs using that ancient hand-carved typography.

The owner doesn’t speak much English but happily greets everyone who comes into the shop with a smile. For only €15, he will make you a custom sign in the same style as the ancient ones. You can have pretty much anything written upon as long as it’s not too many characters. If you arrive early, your personalized stone tablet will be ready for you before the end of day!

Caza das Vellas Loreto | Lisbon, Portugal

Happening upon the Caza das Vellas Loreto while in Lisbon was one of the highlights of my trip. My eyes were drawn to the curiously shaped vibrant candles in the window and I poked my head inside. The tiny shop feels like stepping into an old wardrobe. The entire place is only three meters wide! But stuffed within the glass cabinets lining the walls are colourful stacks of wax candles. Above the cashier at the back of the shop is a large golden set of numbers with the date 1789 written upon it. That is the date when the shop first opened. And they’ve been doing things almost the very same way ever since.

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In addition to the multitude of tapered candles, they also have seasonal designs to delight their customers. Their Christmas collection is a personal favourite and a wonderful way to add some unique flair to your dining table. And since the candles only cost a few euros, apiece it’s a great gift to buy for your friends and family.

À la Mère de Famille | Paris, France

The world’s oldest chocolate shop stands on the cusp of the famous Montmartre neighbourhood in Paris. A la Mère de Famille opened in 1761 by Pierre-Jean Bernard. The gold lettering outside the shop shines in the sunlight and beckons visitors from down the road. The stunning typography, against that beautiful bright green paint, has stood the test of time and still looks like a gem in the centre of the neighbourhood.

Today there are 12 other branches of the chocolate store across the city, but this is the only one you should seek! It is by far the most beautiful, with its antique shelves still stacked with vintage jars and lovely old brass fittings that have barely changed in 260 years. One of the best times to visit the shop is during the holidays when the chocolatiers develop unique sweet creations to delight and devour.

The Oldest Sweet Shop | Pateley Bridge, England

There are some places whose name says it all, and the Original Old Sweet Shop in Pateley Bridge, England, is one of those places. They are the official World Guinness record holder for the oldest continuously trading sweet shop, opened in 1827. Glass jars line the shelves, containing brightly coloured sweets with antique labels.

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In addition to holding this record, they lean into the concept of selling retro sweets that bring a wave of nostalgia for many older visitors or for the younger generations are a chance to sample a piece of history. Many of these sweets use the original recipes and are even created using old copper pans.

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Dulceria de Celaya | Mexico City, Mexico

Dulcería de Celaya is a tiny, old shop selling traditional Mexican candies and sweets. It opened in Mexico City in 1874. Walking into the shop, nothing has changed in over 100 years. When the family-run shop opened, the candy was made in a small, improvised factory using wooden shovels, copper saucepans and a minature oven. They could only produce so much daily, often only one candy tray. But the sweets were so popular that they would sell out daily. As the demand rose, they expanded their production to meet the city’s needs.

Even today, they produce candy in the same way it was made in the beginning, out of that tiny kitchen. The smell of fresh pineapples, strawberries, guavas, and coconut fills the air when you walk in the doors. It’s intoxicating. The candy is very well-priced, so even if you don’t recognize anything, just let the smells guide you and try whatever your eye is drawn to.

The post The Best 11 Historical Shops from All Over the World first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Research and Discovery

I pulled up the first Wikipedia I found and started to devour the article. I came across the typical information I’m used to seeing; facts about the size, the geology and of course its history. But further down I found a section entitled “Castle Mountain Internment Camp“. I was shocked to read this line. I knew about the Japanese internment camps which were set up during WWII but I had never known anything about Internment camps during the first world war.

In researching more further, I began to scroll through dozens of articles focused on this widely unknown part of Canadian history. While reading, I saw that there was a memorial site dedicated to the victims of these internment camps. And it was located just down the road! Without another moment’s thought, we jumped into the car. We raced down the Bow Valley Parkway to see if we could make it in time to see the memorial before sunset.

As we drove, the smoke was rolling in as the sun began to set. This created the most beautiful red and pink sky in front of us. As we drove through the lush green forest around the roadside we were met by this incredible backdrop as we went, framing the silhouettes of the trees and the mountains perfectly. It was indeed one of the best drives of the entire trip.

Castle Mountain Internment Camp

When we arrived, we discovered the small memorial off the side of the roads. While the monument might have been humble, it was nonetheless affecting. Walking up, you are greeted by two large placards with information all about the Internment Camp. While there is no way to give all the details in such a short amount of time, the signs give visitors a snapshot of why the camps were established, what life was like in the camps, and the reconciliation efforts the government has undertaken with the Ukrainian community to address these war crimes.

Castle Mountain Interment Camp History

The Castle Mountain Internment Camp was established in 1915. It was made to contain a total of 660 “enemy aliens” of WWI. These were mainly immigrant prisoners from Ukraine, Austria, Hungary and Germany.

The Canadian War Measures Act

In 1914, at the start of World War I, Canada established the “War Measures Act“. The War Measures Act required that immigrants, who were settlers of countries at war with Canada, turn themselves in. During WWI, Ukraine was under the occupation of the Austro-Hungarian empire and so many of these so-called “enemy aliens” were primarily of Ukrainian ethnic origin. Austrian, Hungarian and German immigrants were also subject to the War Measures act. They were required to carry specific identifications papers with them at all times and were regularly stopped on the street or enforced to report to the police for no reason.

The War Measures Act suspended civil liberties. Immigrants from these countries at war with Canada could be arrested and detained without trial. About 80,000 “enemy aliens” were registered during WWI, and about 9,000 of them were sent to internment camps. Under the auspices of being prisoners of war.

Life in the Camps

Once they were arrested, they were stripped of all their land, wealth and forced to work for the profit of the Canadian government. The prisoners of war were in various camps across the Canadian hinterland. The centers were located in these areas to have the labourers increase accessibility by developing the park system’s infrastructure. By 1915 several internment camps in and around the Rocky Mountains were in full operation. But the largest of these camps was the camp at the foot of Castle Mountain. The primary purpose of the camp was to push the Banff highway, from the then uncompleted Banff-Laggan road, on through to Lake Louise.

Prisons were made to work 13-hour days, no matter the weather. They would build roads, construct bridges, cut down trees, clear the buffalo paddocks, quarry stones for the Banff Hot Springs and construct various fireguards. The camps consisted of simple tents where the prisoners slept, within a barbed-wire enclosure.

Once winter fell, and temperatures fell far below zero, the prisoners were moved to the military barracks at Cave and Basin. Abuse was rampant in these poorly run camps. And escapes were frequent. Six prisoners attempting to escape were killed, but many others did make it out to recount their experiences. Many of these escapees would never recover from their mistreatment in the camps. And the memories of their time there stayed with them for life.

In August 1917, the camps were finally closed when the internees were conditionally released. This was due to the need to meet the growing labour shortage post-WWI. After the camps were closed, they were entirely destroyed, leaving no trace of this dark history.

Establishing the Memorial

In 2008, a settlement was reached with the Ukrainian Canadian community, and a fund was created for educational purposes. In 1995, a statue was commissioned by the Ukrainian Canadian Civil Liberties Association. It was erected close to the original Castle Mountain campsite, near the foot of Castle Mountain.

The sculpture, where we find the memorial today, was made by artist John Boxtel. He titled the piece, “Why?” The sculpture depicts an internee standing in his overall uniform and wide brim hat. He stands with his one hand outstretched. Inviting the visitors in. Below the sculpture are the words, “why?” in three languages (English, French and Ukrainian.)

While uncovering the darker parts of your countries history might not be the most cheery thing to talk about, it’s nevertheless imperative. Sometimes travelling and discovering means discovering things you might not have ever known about, which may change how you think about things. But maybe that’s a good thing. I know that throughout the rest of my trip in Banff, I often would take a moment to reflect. Not only about being on indigenous land but also taking a moment to think about the Ukrainian prisoners who constructed the road I was standing. Or the parkland I have them to thank for having access to seeing wonders like Lake Louise of Morain Lake. This is not the typical article you might expect to find on this site, but I think it’s very important to portray. Context is everything, no matter where you are.

Thanks for taking the time to read all about this mostly unknown part of Banff’s history. Let me know in the comments if you already knew all about these camps or if you, like me, were totally shocked to read about this discovery.

Good Luck with your Future Travels, Adventurers!

The post Discovering the Powerful Dark History of Banff National Park at Castle Mountain Memorial first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Mince Pie

If you grew up with English grandparents, you surely had mince pie on the Christmas table every year. Every Christmas dinner, my grandmother would bring out these tiny mincemeat pies, and I would watch questioningly as my family would gobble them up. I would always pass and only in the last few years have I grown a fondness for them.

Mince Pies are one of the oldest traditions from midwinter festivities. They were meant as a way to re-use shredded meats from banquet leftovers like goose, chicken or beef. The pies were filled with fruits and spices to perhaps mask the smell and taste of the slightly-off bits of meat. The addition of meat in the dish was removed in the 1800s and it became much closer to the sweet dessert we know of today.

Serving Roast Bird at Christmas Dinner

While having a turkey as the centrepiece of our Christmas dinner is now the norm, this wasn’t the case in the medieval period. But the idea of having a bird as the main course does pre-date our modern-day meal. In medieval celebrations, birds were served at the banqueting table in most wealthy households. But unlike our roast turkeys, these birds were served to look like they were still ALIVE! The animal was skinned, then roasted, and a replacement skin was then sewn back onto the meat. This was done so that the meat looked like it was being served from a living bird. Medieval kings and queens loved spectable and this was the height of food-for-entertainment.

The peacock was thought to the most prestigious of these creations as their feathers would bring awe to all the guests present. Smaller households were inspired by the royal’s love of serving these birds, and they would serve a simple goose. Many people still eat goose for their Christmas dinner, and I highly recommend it! It’s very fatty but as it’s small it is perfect for a household of only two or four.

Boar’s Head

If you don’t have turkey on Christmas, you might have a large roasted Christmas ham. The tradition of eating pork during the Yule time celebrations goes all the way back to the middle ages. Still, instead of meat from the hindleg, they would dine of the boar’s head! This tradition is thanks to the Vikings, who would sacrifice a boar to the god Frey during the Yuletide. Frey was known to ride a great gold-bristled boar Gullinbursti. As Frey was the god of fertility, rain, and sunshine, it was thought that this sacrifice would be a good fortune and a healthy harvest to the people.

Eating a boar’s head became even more popular across Europe when it became a popular part of a Christmas carol. The “Boar’s Head Carol” is a 15th-century English Christmas carol that describes the ancient tradition of sacrificing a boar and presenting its head at a Yuletide feast. As the boar’s head is perhaps not the most nourishing part of the animal, the traditions eventually turned into what we now know as the roast ham.

Christmas Plum Pudding

I have a winter hat in the shape of a Christmas pudding, and it’s by far my favourite thing to wear the second it becomes acceptable to wear Christmas-themed clothing in December! Plum pudding is a dish that is most popular in the UK, but eating such desserts dates back to England’s medieval ancestors. The pudding’s original version was actually more like a porridge, made from beef and mutton with raisins, wine, and spices added. It was pretty soupy, but breadcrumbs were added to give it some additional thickness. Sounds pretty unappetizing, but during the solstice, when poor families struggled to find something warm and hearty to eat, it was considered a luxury. Although the recipe has been refined over time, eating plum pudding on Christmas Eve still makes you feel warm and fuzzy inside!

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Some people have the tradition of hiding something inside the pudding. You hid a silver coin, small crown or ring inside the dish before baking. Whoever has the piece of pudding with the treasure inside their slice would be known as the King or Queen of the dinner. The finding of the metal was thought to bring the receiver good fortune for the year to come. Just be sure to use a food-safe material!

Wassail

It seems that no matter where you live in the world, you have a warm, spiced drink which simmers on the stove during the holidays. In England its mulled wine, in Mexico Ponche, in Sweden Glogg and so on! But all these drinks date back to the medieval Wassail. Wassail was a drink made from hot mead or mulled cider. It was one of the most important things to bring with you during any Yuletide festival. Pagans would bring their wassail bowl, full of the beverage, to the tree of worship. They would proceed to pour the alcohol over the roots of a great apple tree in the hopes of ensuring a good harvest the following year. There is even an ancient Christmas carol all about Wassail.

Wassail! Wassail! All over the town, Our toast it is white and our ale it is brown; Our bowl it is made of the white maple tree; With the wassailing bowl, we’ll drink unto thee.

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Wassail Recipe

Wassail is actually delicious and super easy to make. All you need is 1/3 pint apple cider (or apple juice if you can’t find cider), zest one lemon, 1/8 tsp nutmeg, 1/4 tsp cinnamon, 1/4 tsp ginger, 1 oz sugar, 1-pint ale (or omit if you prefer an alcohol-free version) and 1 tsp honey. Simmer on the stove till the scent of apples and spices fill your entire house with festive fragrance.

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Holly & Ivy

During the cold and dark winters, the idea of bringing greenery into your house was a popular medieval tradition. The idea of seeing these green boughs was meant to symbolize life during a season when everything else seemed to be dying. While the outdoors was barren and grey, your home was not. Even the most impoverished household could go out and collect greenery to decorate the house, so its popularity was wide-ranging. Two of the most popular plants to collect were holly and ivy. Since they had roots in Saturnalia’s pagan festival, the church widely disapproved of this kind of decoration. But the people persisted with it nonetheless. Holly is one of the oldest good-luck charms used by ancient Celtic druids to ward off evil spirits. It was thought to also protect the home from lightning and was used for good luck.

Mistletoe

Mistletoe is another plant that has been used in Christmas celebrations for ages. It was long thought to be used as an ancient cure-all by the druids. People would use it for fertility, to protect their crops and even to ward off witches. The mistletoe myth of bestowing love upon any couple who kiss beneath it dates back to the Norse gods. The Norse god Balder was thought to have died after being killed with a spear made from the mistletoe. His mother, Frigg, wept upon finding her son dead, and her tears turned into the white berries on the plant. Frigg ensured that whenever a couple met under the mistletoe, she would protect them in a way she could not have saved her son. And instead of becoming known as a deadly plant, it was known as the plant of love.

The idea of kissing under the mistletoe comes from England, when servants were allowed to steal a kiss from any woman under the mistletoe, and refusing was seen as bad luck. Another tradition goes that you must kiss once for every berry on the mistletoe and pluck them as you go until all the berries are gone.

The Original Yuletide Tree

In medieval times, druids were known to worship oak trees. This enraged many early Christians, including St. Boniface, who despised their love of the great tree. One day St. Boniface headed out to the great oak and cut it down. When it fell, a fir tree grew up from its roots. Boniface proclaimed that this fir tree symbolized Christ, as its branches never turned brown, a symbol of Jesus’s eternal life. Being amazed at the sight, many of the druids decided to finally convert to Christianity.

The earliest known decorated Christmas tree was noted in 1419 in Freiburg, Germany. The Baker’s apprentices decorated a tree outside the local hospital with apples, wafers, gingerbread, and tinsel. They decorated it at Christmastime to bring joy to those suffering inside whenever they looked out their window.

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Yule Log

Pagan and Norse people would perform a yearly ritual to appease the god Thor. They would place a log in the hearth, and if the log burned all throughout the Yuletide celebrations, this would ensure the sun’s return. Often, they would dose the log in alcohol to ensure it burned for a long time. When paganism was replaced with Christianity, this tradition continued as the log was seen to represent the warmth that Jesus brought to humanity on Christmas Eve.

As the hearth slowly was replaced with modern electric technology, people continued leaving out a log on their dining table as a symbol. Eventually, someone had the brilliant idea to turn the symbol of the Yule Log into a delicious dessert, as it’s much more enjoyable to eat rather than just staring at a log on the table.

Music of St. Francis of Assisi

Many people credit St. Francis of Assisi with the invention of the Christmas Carol. In 1224, during one of his nativity services, Francis led the crowd in a song of praise for the baby Jesus. His joyful tunes caught on with the group, and they would excitedly gather every year to take part in the singing. Eventually, the tradition of singing happy tunes around the holiday season caught on, and now it is one of the most popular traditions for families to take part in during large gatherings. These melodies weren’t always necessarily religious during medieval times and sometimes just focused on the winter season.

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Sliding on Frozen Lakes

One of the most popular winter activities during the winter in the middle ages was sliding on frozen lakes. People would use the large bones from a horse to strap to their feet. They would then use long poles to help themselves glide along the frozen water. This was one of the earliest forms of ice skating, a tradition that many families love to partake in every Christmas.

St. Nicholas

Before there ever was Santa Claus, there was St. Nicholas, better known as Father Christmas. St. Nicholas was born in 280 in Patara, now Turkey. Three girls in his local village were on the verge of being sold into slavery or prostitution by their father. The family was too poor to afford a dowry and I guess back then it was get married or be a prostitute? No fun…

Upon hearing this, St. Nicholas snuck out and dropped a sack of gold coin through the window. He would place the coins inside their drying socks left by the window (where we get the traditions of hanging stocking today). This gift meant their father could afford a dowry, and they would be spared from being sold off. Nicholas became the patron saint of charitable fraternities and guilds of unmarried girls.

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To honour his charity, in the 12th-century French nuns began secretly leaving presents inside the homes of poor children. They would always do so on the eve of Saint Nicholas. Soon the trend of secret gift-giving in honour of Saint Nick caught on all around Europe. There were even marketplaces that would pop up around the Yuletide dedicated to selling toys and treats for children.

The Great Feast

Royal winter feasts were something for the history books. In 1213 it was recorded that at King John’s Christmas feast, the cooks ordered 24 hogsheads of wine, 200 head of pork, 10,000 salt eels, 1,000 hens, and 500 lbs of wax, 50 lbs of pepper, 2 lbs of saffron, 100 lbs of almonds! Truly one of the most extensive grocery shopping trips of all time I’m sure!

But even for more modest households, the Christmas feast was still a massive event during the Yuletide season. The meal’s principal components were hearty meats, cheese, bread, ale, and a table of sweets. Venison was the most popular meat to be eaten at the time, along with pork & rabbit for the rich. The poor, on the other hand, ate sausage and bacon. Candied fruit, sugared almonds and sweets have always been popular Christmas treats.

Gingerbread

Whether baked in the shape of little men or made into a large house decorated with candies and icing, gingerbread is one of the most iconic Christmas foods! But the history of this dessert dates all the way back to the 11th century. It made its appearance during the Crusades when ginger was brought back from the Middle East. Back then, ginger was one of the most expensive spices. Using it in dishes was a means to show off your wealth. The earliest recipe we have of gingerbread consists of stale breadcrumbs combined with flour, ground almonds, rosewater or powdered sandalwood. It was then mixed with sugar, and fresh ginger.

This paste was pressed in moulds and sometimes even covered in gold leaf. Those who couldn’t afford gold leaf would use white icing sugar to decorate the shapes into more detailed reliefs. The shapes were used to tell stories from the news of the day. And sometimes, were made in the likeness of famous kings and emperors. In the 15th century in Nuremberg, the cookies became so popular and lucrative that an entire guild was dedicated to the profession.

Marzipan

While Marzipan is definitely not my favourite treat, it was a real hit with medieval aristocrats. The paste, made from almonds, sugar and egg whites, was an exotic treat. It made its way from Persia to Europe in the early 15th century. Back then, it was considered a luxury and often given as a Christmas gift. In addition to the wonderful almond flavour, Europeans loved the aesthetics of the dessert. It could be formed into many different shapes and painted to look like extraordinary creations. They loved giving the gift of surprise more than anything else. It was always a treat for them to reveal to the giftee that the music box or even the small bird in front was actually a sweet treat!

Boxing Day 

Boxing Day in medieval times was not a day for shopping. Instead, it was a day for the “reversal of fortunes.” During this time, the rich were encouraged to give gifts to the poor. Gifts were placed in boxes that employers would often give to their servants to reward them for their yearly service. Metal boxes were also placed outside churches to collect money and donations on the Feast of Saint Stephen, which took place on December 26th. St. Stephen was the first Christian martyr known for his charity acts towards the poor.

I hope you enjoyed this dive into the traditions of Medieval Christmas and maybe even consider adding some medieval flavours into your Christmas this year!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post 16 Surprising Medieval Traditions To Add To Your Christmas Celebrations first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.