Table Of Contents

1. Map of Walking Tour
2. History of Kyoto
3. Higashi Honganji Temple
4. The Founder’s Hall Gate
5. Kyosendo
6. Tofu Shop
7. Ayako Tenmangu Shrine
8. Walden Woods Kyoto
9. Fabric Stores
10. Ichihime Jinja
11. Ame-no-Mana-I Well
12. Gojo Rakuen
13. Takase River
14. Artists Studios
15. Yamauchi Nintendo
16. Shomem-bashi Bridge
17. Kanshundo Higashimisea
18. Toyokuni Shrine
19. Hoko-ji Temple

Map of Walking Tour

History of Kyoto

Although Kyoto is a modern city with 2.5 million inhabitants, it has a quiet, traditional side. Kyoto has evidence of settlements as early as the 6th century. But during the 8th century, Buddhists travelled to Kyoto from China to establish a new village that would become Kyoto.

In the 16th century, Toyotomi Hideyoshi designed urban Kyoto using rectangular and square blocks of houses. Everything was designed to be accessible and easy to navigate, much like the grid structure New York is modelled on today.

The Divison of Kyoto

The city of Kyoto, once the capital of Japan, was established in a precise location for a particular reason. The Buddhists of the period said that a city should only be built in a place where four gods can protect it. There needed to be a mountain to the North, a river to the east, a road to the west, and a plain with water to the south.

Kami of Kyoto

Each one of those elements represented a different Kami (Japanese god). The Tortoise god was represented by the North Mountains Hiei and Atago. The West Road represented the White Tiger God, which connected Japan to all the major cities to the west. The Red Phoenix god was characterized by the Uji River and the south plains. And finally, the great Dragon God was represented by the eastern Kamo River. These elements made Kyoto the perfect spot, as per Chinese legends.

Because Kyoto was saved from the extensive bombings by the USA in WWII, the town has preserved much of its original architecture. Walking along these backstreets, there are ordinary residential houses that feel like museum pieces. A piece of history from another time and place. And yet they are just as ubiquitous as anything else on the street.

Higashi Honganji Temple

Our tour begins at the Higashi Honganji Temple. The temple complex is enormous as Higashi Honganji is one of Japan’s most prominent Buddhist denominations, and this is its headquarters. Higashi Honganji has approximately 10,000 local temples, 50 regional offices and over 200 temples overseas.

Goeido and Amidado Halls

The two buildings standing in the centre of the grounds are the Goeido Hall (dedicated to Shinran, the sect’s founder) and the Amidado Hall (dedicated to the Amida Buddha, the most important Buddha in Jodo-Shin Buddhism). These buildings are of great historical importance and have been designated as UNESCO world heritage sites. We begin here because these incredible structures were the blueprint onto which even the most modest house, garden or shrine was built to emulate. You’ll see details from the temples here everywhere you look, in small bits and pieces as we go!

Cleansing Yourself Before Entering

Before entering the shrine, it is customary that you wash your hands. Washing is a means of cleansing the body before stepping onto the sacred ground. At the entrance to the temple, with a fierce dragon spewing water. Beneath him is a series of ladles. Take a spoon and, with water, pour it over one hand and the other. Finally, fill the scoop with water and pour it into your cupped hands. Rinse your mouth and spit the water beside the fountain (NOT INTO IT). Many visitors skip the mouth rinsing part, so if you’re not up for that, just be sure to cleanse your hands. Even if you are not religious, doing this is seen as a sign of respect in your visit to the temple.

Shin Buddism

Jōdo Shinshū, or Shin Buddhism, started in 1173. It is the most popular form of Buddhism practised in Japan, partly due to its simple methods. Shin Buddhism “focuses on daily practice, open-minded reflection, and the direct and personal religious experience of the transcending mystery of life, symbolized by Amida Buddha.“

Goeido Hall

The Goeido Hall is one of Japan’s largest wooden structures. Originally built in the Edo period (1603–1868), the current structure is a faithful reconstruction of the Meiji period (1868–1912).

Inside the main hall, you’ll find a peaceful spot for meditation. The high ceilings are dotted with golden chandeliers in the shape of blooming lotus flowers. 90 wooden pillars support the roof, complete with organically shaped capitals. Delicate tatami mats cover the floor, their light colour contrasting with the dark wood surrounding it. A large golden altar sits on a raised platform in front of the hall. On top of the altar is a wooden statue depicting “Shinran,” the founder of the Jodo Shinshu sect.

Amida Hall

Opposite the main hall, connected by a long wooden ramp, is the Amida Hall. This building was rebuilt in 1895 and contains a statue of the all-mighty “Amida Buddha.” Throughout the complex, you’ll pass through these large wooden walkways. The design of the walkways makes you feel as though they are extensions of the main structures, like limbs reaching out. Such a complex design displays the architectural prowess of the Edo period.

Dioramas

Outside on the walkway, you’ll find some small exhibits about the construction of the halls. In one, we can see a little diorama which depicts how the lumber was transported from the forests to the temple. In another scene, workers are fleeing an avalanche; some look like they’re not going to make it! The dioramas convey how some people had to risk their lives, so this temple could be created, and this exhibit pays homage to their sacrifice.

In another glass case, we can see an enormous, dark rope. It’s as thick as an oil drum and, shockingly, was created entirely from human hair. Female Buddhists would donate their hair to the temple to be turned into these strong ropes. This would help workers move the lumber into place and was one of the most important tools of the temple’s construction.

The Founder’s Hall Gate

Although multiple gates are used to access the temple grounds, the most impressive of all the gates is “The Founder’s Hall Gate.” The gate was built in 1911 and is over 92 feet tall. It is quite opulent and has two roofs, stacked one on top of the other. This creates a layered effect like on a pagoda.

Along the temple’s exterior runs a small moat filled with lily pads and lotus, flanked by rows of Japanese black pines. The green trees set against the beige structures against a blue sea sky are one of the best colour combinations out there!

Kyosendo

After touring the temple, we head away from the tourists and into the real backstreets of Kyoto. Head to Kyosendo, where craftsmen and women keep old traditions alive. In this shop, artists create and assemble Japanese fans in the same manner as they have been made for hundreds of years.

History of Japanese Fans

The first appearance of fans in Japan was in the early 6th century, brought over from China, although these fans did not fold but were completely flat. They were also very large and needed to be operated by a servant since they were too big to hold in your hand.

Legend has it that the Japanese folding fan was invented when a craftsman serving the emperor saw a bat and was inspired by the design of its wings. The fact that the fan could fold made it easier to hold in your hand when not in use and could travel more effectively.

Varieties of Fans

There are three main varieties of Japanese fans; the feather, the folding fan and the brisé. Traditional Japanese fans are magnificently painted with images of pines, chrysanthemums, birds, plums, cherry blossoms and more! Every design contains a rush of symbols representing Japan or even hints at a theme important to the person for which the fan is being made.

For 250 years, Japan remained closed off from international trading, and when its doors were finally opened, its exports were highly sought-after items. Japanese fans began flooding the North American and European marketplaces, some of the most fashionable accessories. At this shop, you cannot only look at the artisans still making these fans but buy one to take home for yourself.

Tofu Shop

Opposite the fan shop, you’ll almost always hear a clamouring surrounding a glass refrigerator case. People come and go at all hours to buy fresh, locally-made tofu.

Inside the shop, there is a sweet fragrance that fills the air. Well-worn machines surround the outer walls of the shop, and women in aprons mull about pouring hot soy milk into plastic moulds. They sprinkled each square with magnesium chloride (which is the magic ingredient that turns soy milk into tofu.) Tofu is to Kyoto as pizza is to New York. Wide varieties are made all over Japan, but nowhere does it better than Kyoto.

History of Tofu in Japan

The tofu was first brought to Kyoto by Buddhist monks in the 6th century, who could not eat meat or dairy as an alternative protein. This tofu is extra creamy, and you can taste just how fresh it is. It’s almost like pudding! In addition to tofu, they also made little pastry-like buns from the leftover soy, which people from all over town come to purchase at lunchtime. Try one for yourself! A great treat that ensures nothing goes to waste.

Ayako Tenmangu Shrine

Continue down the streets until you come upon the Ayako Tenmangu Shrine. Sitting outside the shrine is a large stone sculpture of a bull. The bull is the symbol of health in Japan, and this shrine is dedicated to bringing health to your body and mind. The shrine is very popular during exam season when students come here to pray for academic success!

Walden Woods Kyoto

Fabric Stores

Along the backstreets of Kyoto, you’ll stumble upon almost every kind of shop! Some streets seemed completely residential, and suddenly, you’ll come across a high fashion kimono shop selling one-of-a-kind garments for Japanese weddings. These store hours are very sporadic, so I didn’t want to list anyone in particular, but weaving your way up to our next destination is a great way of discovering something for yourself!

Kimono shops, wedding kimono shops especially, are spectacular! The colours were stunning, and the amount of layering is almost impossible to imagine how these women managed to walk effortlessly and look graceful under all that weighty cloth. But fashion comes at a price!

Family Cemetery

Stop at this family-run shrine and cemetery located at the northern end of town. Here you can take a moment to learn about how the Japanese experience death.

About Japanese Cemeteries

In Japan, entire families are buried altogether. One giant stone displays their family name, and the wooden sticks surrounding it refer to the different family members who have passed; unlike in North America, where we don’t visit cemeteries all that often, it is very common in Japan to visit your family tombstone weekly. You would bring with you things your loved one cherished in life, like; beer, food or even sometimes something to read. Japanese families keep their loved ones close, even in death.

Ichihime Jinja

After a short rest or a beverage stop at one of the many street vending machines, head back out to find the Ichihime Jinja shrine. Ichihime Jinja is best known for its protection of women. All the gods worshipped here are female deities. The shrine was once even featured on a popular Japanese TV show, and ever since, women from all over the world have come here to receive the blessings of the maternal deities.

Omikuji

The Omikuji fortunes at this shrine are unique as they are stuffed inside cute, red wooden dolls in the shape of a lady. Each one has a different hand-painted face and holds within it a secret fortune. If you receive a negative fortune, tie it up on the wall with the other to ensure the bad omen doesn’t come to pass.

How to Pray

Towards the back area of the shrine is where you’ll find the haiden. This is where you pay your respects to the gods. First, drop a coin into the offering box. Next, you need to ring the bell. Ringing this bell is important in the prayer process as it lets the gods know you’re there. Ring the suzu bell, bow twice, clap your hands twice, and bow once more.

Ame-no-Mana-I Well

Besides the shrine, you’ll find the famous Ame-no-Mana-I well. This well was once used by royal families, and it is said that cleansing yourself in the springs of the well will result in your wish being granted.

Gojo Rakuen

Further along, find your way to the Gojo Rakuen area. This neighbourhood used to be the old red light, Geisha district. Although real geishas weren’t like prostitutes (they were more like companions and entertainers), various women of the night would dress like geisha and offer up their “services” to gain a particular type of clientele in this area. Brothels inside wooden teahouses were once the main establishment on these streets.

Fifth Street Paradise

Gojo Rakuen translates into “fifth street paradise.” That “paradise” refers to all the “pleasure” services once offered here. A strange feature could identify these houses of ill-repute. Unlike the red lights district in Amsterdam, where the houses were lit up with red lights to identify them as brothels, Japanese brothels were identifiable by having a fish tank outside their open door.

After becoming a seedy part of town, many branches of the Yakuza (the Japanese mafia) also moved into the area, making it an off-limits place for many Japanese people for years. Only now, after the Yakuza had been exiled from Kyoto, can people walk these streets without fear.

Takase River

Unlike European cities, where houses along the river bank are seen as some of the most desirable properties in the city, the houses along the riverbank in Kyoto are old, wooden townhomes. Some almost falling apart. They are humble houses that have yet to be swept up in the wave of urbanization.

Walking through these streets, many old tea houses and traditional restaurants remain. No trendy cafes or loud bars. These streets keep the vestiges of the old ways. Take a minute to stop along the bridge across the Takase River for a hydration break! It’s amazing in a city as famous as Kyoto, you can find such peace and quiet.VVVVVVVVVVV

Artists Studios

Due to the run-down nature of this area, and the low real estate prices, artists began to flock to this part of town. Here they could work on their craft; soon, these backstreets became a wash of artists and craftspeople. Walking, you might see people selling wares outside their front door. No official shop, just ceramics laid out in a box with an honour system for payment. I managed to poke my head into a small studio with open doors.

Inside, an old Japanese woman, surrounded by paint brushes and books, sat there painting the tiniest details onto a minuscule clay figurine. Japanse pottery is one of the oldest art forms in the country, and this woman was preserving its legacy. Surrounding her were hundreds of reference books, patterns, antique pottery and more.

Visiting Artists Workshops

Her face was so serious, but when she looked up, and I complimented her on her work, she smiled so wide – even after all these years, it still made her happy to see her work was appreciated. Hidden in the nooks and crannies of her studio were some of her pieces ready to be sent to high-end shops all over Kyoto.

Yamauchi Nintendo

Before heading across the bridge, we passed the former headquarters of Nintendo. This was their main location when Nintendo was just a Japanese playing card company established in 1889. Long before it had anything to do with Mario or Luigi. Inside this building was where Pokemon was first invented. The quiet street was very unassuming, and it was unbelievable that years later, Pokemon would become one of the most popular past times for kids worldwide.

Shomem-bashi Bridge

Crossing the Kamogawa river, we head over the Shomen-bashi bridge. This is a more modern bridge than the original one, which once stood here. It was built in 1952, but nonetheless, it keeps in line with the aesthetics of the area’s original architecture.

From the bridge, you can see both sides of Kyoto and the mountains in the background. On hot summer days, the riverbank is filled with tourists and locals relaxing alongside. On either part of the riverbank, balconies from restaurants and old townhouses overlooked the waters.

Kanshundo Higashimisea

Across the bridge, stop at Kanshundo Higashimise. This traditional candy shop has been in business for over 150 years. The sweet shop sells wagashi sweets made by skilled artisans who turn sugar into coin-sized delicate works of art in all magical shapes. These handmade treats always have seasonal touches. Since it was autumn when we were there, the chefs had different autumnal flavours added to the wagashi.

Wagashi

Take a seat at the back, where you can order a cup of green tea and a sample of one of their handmade desserts. The wagashi was made to perfectly complement the slightly bitter flavour of the green tea.
The ingredients for wagashi are fairly simple; it’s only sugar, rice flour, and some additional flavouring. But the decoration, shape and complex flavours make an otherwise simple treat into something fantastical. These treats are often served at tea ceremonies or special occasions.

Toyokuni Shrine

After a quick snack, head over to Toyokuni Shrine. Originally constructed in 1599, the shrine was built in memory of the great leader, Tokugawa Ieyasu. Tokugawa Ieyasu wanted to be treated like a god after his death and had his followers build this great shrine where people could worship his memory after his passing. But his popularity proved to be his demise, even after death. The next ruler, Toyokuni, was jealous of the dead leader’s reputation and had the shrine destroyed. The new leader had a new shine built in his honour on the same spot. Just to spite the old ruler.

Karamon Gate

The karamon gate you walk through to enter the shrine is rumoured to have been moved from the historic Fushimi Castle. This gate is one of Japan’s most iconic karamon gates, and people travel from all over to view its striking architectural design. Despite being over 400 years old, much of the gold leaf decorating the outside of the gate is from the original structure. The gate has been so lovingly cared for; therefore, even the oldest details were well preserved.

The gate was built in the Momoyama period when Japanese architecture broke away from many aspects of Chinese architecture to create its own style. Carved onto the gate are images of cranes made by Hidari Jingoro, one of the most famous carvers of the 16th century. The cranes all possess no eyes because, as the legend goes, if they had eyes, they would simply fly away and not stand and protect the temple.

Toyotomi Hideyoshi

Entombed inside the shrine is Toyotomi Hideyoshi himself, and many people visit the shrine simply to pray near his tomb. They hope their prayers will transfer some of his power to them.

Toyotomi’s family crest is a cluster of gourds. Today, you can purchase an ema in the shape of a gourd. Emas are wooden prayer plaques where worshippers can write their prayers or wishes. Another popular item the shrine is known for is its amulets called “Samuhara,” which are said to ward off misfortunes.

Hoko-ji Temple

Adjacent to the shrine is an ageing temple containing an enormous bell. These are the remnants of the ancient Hoko-ji Temple. Hoko-ji Temple was once one of the greatest temples in Japan, but after many wars, earthquakes and fires, all that remains is the giant bell. This part is hidden off to the side of the temple, sitting in the middle of a run-down parking lot. But it is absolutely worth your time to come and see it!

This prayer bell is the largest in Japan. It is 4.2 meters high and weighs a whopping 82 tonnes!

If you crane your head over the barrier, you can see restored engravings and paintings that decorate the ceiling of the bell’s roof.

Not many people visit this temple, as it’s not one of the most notable. But as such, it was such a peaceful place to contemplate life and end our tour of the backstreets of Kyoto.

I hope you enjoyed this backstreets tour. Finding hidden treasures along the way is my favourite part of travel, so don’t hesitate the share your favourite unknown aspects of this incredible, historical city!

Happy Travel Adventurers!

The post Exploring the Hidden Secrets of Kyoto, an Alternative Walking Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. 1. Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine
2. 2. The Kimono Forest
3. 3. Arashiyama Bamboo Forest
   • Advice on Touring the Forest
4. 4. Nishi Market
5. 5. Kyoto Tower
6. 6. Traditional Fan Shops
7. 7. Kamo River Bridge
8. 9. Kiyomizu-dera Temple
9. 10. Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavillion
10. 11. The Philosopher's Path
11. 12. Nanzen-ji Temple & Hōjō Gardens

1. Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine

Fushimi Inari-Taisha ShrineOne of the most iconic images of Japan has to be the bright, vermilion-coloured torii gates of Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto. Many people come to Fushimi Inari Taisha not knowing the scope of it. They see the images online and think it’s just a few small alleyways – this is far from the whole picture. The main shrine sits at the base of the Inari mountains, but a path of thousands of torii gates behind the building leads visitors up 233 meters above sea level to visit 4 kilometres of sub-shrines, finally ending at the magnificent mountain top shrine.

To get the best shot without hundreds of people crowded inside the gates, prepared for a long hike. When you first the Torii gate trail, you’ll see it is crammed with tourists. The effect of the gates might seem a little distorted when full of people, but as you continue to walk, more and more people drop off, having had their fill, and suddenly you’ll find yourself being the only one in these fields of bright orange forest. The hike really pays off, and the view from the top of the mountain is absolutely breathtaking.

2. The Kimono Forest

About 30 minutes from the centre of the city is the village of Arashiyama. While this place is most famous for its incredible bamboo forest (also in this list), one of the more obscure places to visit here, which is absolutely unbelievable for Instagrammers, is the Kimono Forest. Behind the Sagano Romantic Train Station, you’ll find a forest created from a series of cylinder-shaped pillars. Each one contains various strips of fabric, the kind used in the design of traditional Japanese Kimonos. There are about 600 different pillars with 32 different patterns inside. Walk around to see if you can spot them all! The best time of day to see this exhibit is at dusk since the columns all light up and form a glowing pathway.

3. Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

The Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is heralded as being one of the “most beautiful groves on earth” and has been designated a “National Historic Site and Place of Scenic Beauty” by Japan. The Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is truly a place unlike anywhere else. It’s a spot where you can escape yourself, as long as you manage to escape the throngs of tourists as well. Obviously, everyone wants to be here when you have a clear shot of the grove without anyone in the way. Lots of people will tell you to come even before sunrise. And while that’s probably your best chance, even those super early risers have been disappointed to see that hundreds of others had the same idea.

Advice on Touring the Forest

My advice is to take the crowds as they come and not to stress about waking up SUPER early on what’s supposed to be a relaxing vacation. I actually found that later in the afternoon, there were the least amount of people in comparison to the morning. It seemed like the tour buses were well on their way home as the sun began to set.

But even with tourists aplenty, there is still plenty to enjoy and ways to get those amazing shots! If one area becomes inundated with people, quickly pass through the crowd, and suddenly you’ll see that the path opens up. The dense areas of individuals tend to be formed by bus tours, all walking through together, so if you pass by them quickly, you might find that space they just left is pretty empty. A lot of these tour buses also don’t spend too much time in the forest. They enter at the beginning of the path but never make it to the end. I found that if you walk to the very end of the grove, you’ll find that by the end of the path, you’ll have the place to yourself at times.

4. Nishi Market

The Nishiki Market now spans five covered street blocks with hundreds of shops and restaurants on either side. Because the market is a covered pedestrian walking area, this is a great place to come if it happens to be raining while you’re visiting. They call this market “Kyoto’s Kitchen” since anything you need to prepare your meals is all right here under one roof. The market was first opened in 1615! Visually this street is a wonder! The red, yellow and green glass-covered rooftop cast this incredible glow down on all the shops below, each one of which has the most amazing visuals out on display; some are handicrafts, others are brightly coloured cakes, shiny fish scales glimmering in the lights or even the mochi makers pounding their delightfully green creations.

5. Kyoto Tower

Kyoto Tower, located right above Kyoto’s central train station, is the tallest structure in Kyoto and definitely the most modern one as well. It really stands out, literally as well as figuratively. While it might seem out of place, the juxtaposition of the contemporary tower against an ancient skyline and the scenic mountains in the distance is a wonderfully composed photo.

6. Traditional Fan Shops

A traditional Japanese folding fan is one of the most popular souvenir items which people bring back from Japan, but unlike some touristy things, Japanese people do indeed use these daily in the more rural areas of Japan where modern conveniences are a luxury. Before air conditioning, these fans were the perfect way to keep cool on a hot day and their design and the artist who made them have been highly regarded for hundreds of years. You can still visit the artisans who create these iconic fans at Hangesho in the Shin Miyagawa Muso neighbourhood. This is where some of Kyoto’s famous Geisha get their fans, which they use in their tea ceremonies. Watching the delicate hands of these artists at work is a genuine experience but looking at their works on the walls is a feast for your eyes (and camera)!

7. Kamo River Bridge

Near Gion, you’ll find the Kamo River Bridge. The best place to get a shot of the main bridge is from the bridge just south of the main crossing. The Kamo River has served over the years as a place of great importance for the people of Kyoto. The river was diverted in the 8th century to ensure the new course past the town’s new capital Heian Capital (now called Kyoto).

The river was not only a place for the locals to get their drinking water but was where many of the local fabric makers would come to dye their beautiful fabrics, and pottery makers would begin to get supplies for their work, two iconic symbols of Kyoto craftsmanship. At night the lights from the neighbouring street light up the ancient trees, which line the river’s edge and create the most stunning picture. From here, you can also see the famous Minamiza Kabuki Theater in the distance, as well as a myriad of other iconic structures from Kyoto’s architectural history.

8. Geisha Spotting in Gion

The Gion district is one of Kyoto’s oldest neighbourhoods. The streets seem to surge with history, but what makes this area so unique is that it is one of the last remaining places where you can see real Geishas in Japan. Up and down these streets, you can keep your eyes open and see if you can catch a glimpse of a Geisha on her way to a tea house where exclusive guests enjoy an evening of traditional Japanese entertainment.

If you see a Maiko or Geiko in the streets, be respectful. They don’t mind if you take a picture, but they won’t stop and take a picture with you or stop to chat. If they’re on the street, they are on their way to work and don’t have time to dillydally. Let them go on their way, and just allow yourself to be an observer of their grandiose presence. The best time to spot Geisha is right before dinner time when they leave their homes to head to their private tea houses.

9. Kiyomizu-dera Temple

Upon a mountain, glowing orange against a sea of green trees is Kiyomizu-Dera Temple. This temple is one of the best places to visit in Kyoto to see traditional Japanese architecture. Kiyomizu-dera was founded here in 778, but most of the buildings you’ll see today were built in 1633. The name ‘Kiyomizu-dera’ comes from the waterfall which flows through the grounds since the word ‘Kiyoi mizu’ means pure water. I love this temple so much; visiting it feels like uncovering levels of beauty as you approach.

The walk up the hill towards the temple is full of antique shops selling brightly coloured goods, then you reach a bright red gate guarded by incredible statues. Inside you’ll see the gorgeous vermillion Koyasu Pagoda and, finally, the ancient wooden main hall. It was built without a single nail, and the veranda juts out 13 meters over the forest floor below with a view of the city below that is unrivalled!

10. Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavillion

Northwest of the city centre, you’ll find Kinkaku-ji, the Temple of the Golden Pavilion. Originally this incredible complex was built as a villa for one of the most influential statesmen in Kyoto. After many years it changed hands but eventually was converted into a Zen temple. The pavilion is one of the most popular tourist sites in Kyoto and draws millions of visitors a year. One of the reasons is the sheer power which this building holds. The top two storeys of the pavilion are covered in PURE gold leaf!

The juxtaposition of this against the simple and natural environment of the trees surrounding it feels like something out of a painting or Japanese woodcut print. While there are a lot of tourists who can take away from the zen-like experience, much like the Bamboo forest, it’s all about finding your way away from the crowds and enjoying those precious quiet moments you will manage while here.

11. The Philosopher’s Path

The Philosopher’s Path is one of the most magnificent exploratory walks you can experience in Kyoto. The path is located in the northern area of Higashiyama at the base of Kyoto’s East Mountain. It is a place to wander, to find yourself, to embrace peace and quiet and to see what makes Kyoto so unique as a city. The path follows the Lake Biwa Canal for around 29 kilometres at the base of the mountain. The trail is lined with cherry trees on either side. During the cherry blossom season, this is one of the most popular spots to come and view the spectacle.

12. Nanzen-ji Temple & Hōjō Gardens

Nanzen-ji Temple was built in 1291 for Emperor Kameyama on the site of his former palace. Inside you’ll find the Hōjō gardens, which are one of the best examples of “karesansui” gardens in Japan. They mirror the natural forms of their environment, and unlike many European gardens, they are 90% gravel. This might seem odd and ugly, but the result is a marriage of the natural environment and the man-made arts. Inside the Hōjō, you’ll find Japanese screen paintings with golden embellishments by Kanō Tan’yū, which are considered a National Treasure in Japan.

The post 12 of the Most Instagrammable Spots to see in Kyoto first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Access

This Zen temple is located along Kyoto’s Eastern mountains. You can easily access the Pavillion by bus on #5, 17, or 100 from Kyoto Station. The ride takes about 35-40 minutes and costs 230 yen one way. The Silver Pavillion is located along the Philosopher’s Path, so combining this visit with that one is a great way to spend a relaxing morning.

Hours & Admission

Ginkakuji is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm March to November and from 9:00 am to 4:30 pm from December to February. There are no closing days, so even during the holidays, you can still visit. Admission into the Pavilion is 500 yen.

History

The Silver Pavillion was built in 1482 for the Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa. It was made for him to spend his retirement in a serene and relaxing environment. The architectural designs of the temple are significant as they are one of the best representations of Higashiyama architecture of the Muromachi period. Unfortunately, the Shogun only had the chance to spend a few years here as he passed away in 1490. After his death, the villa was converted into a Zen temple for the people of Kyoto.

Why is it called the “Silver” Pavillion

Although it is called the “Silver” pavilion, surprisingly enough, there was never any silver anywhere to be found. Initially, the main building was supposed to be coated in silver, just as its sister building, the Golden Pavillion, was covered in gold. But the Shogun ran out of money during construction, and that great silver architectural icon was never to be. But the designers would not give up so easily. They painted the main building with a dark coat of paint so that at night the black paint would reflect the moonlight, giving the building the appearance of glowing silver in the light.

Architecture

The Silver Pavillion was built by combining two distinct architectural styles, seamlessly blending Japan’s art history. Each shingle on the roof is made from Japanese cypress trees. Bamboo nails secured the bark, as metal nails would rust and ruin the wood. Inside the Pavillion is a precious statue of “Kannon,” the Buddhist goddess of mercy, to whom the Shogun would pray each night.

Although this is not viewable to the public, you can imagine how important it would have been to be housed in such a grandiose place. Despite the pavilion’s relative simplicity, a profoundly artistic aesthetic can be found here. The Japanese have perfected the ideology of grace in restraint, and this is one of their best examples.

Entry

When I arrived, I was one of the first people to get there. Only a few other couples were huddled outside the gates, waiting to get inside. Before letting people in, one of the caretakers sprinkled water on the stones along the entry. This wasn’t to clean the stones but to spiritually cleanse them. Just as people wash their hands before entering a temple, they do the same for the grounds themselves.

The Silver Pavilion is the first thing you’ll see when you come inside, as it is the largest building on the property. A circular path will lead you through the grounds, and as you go, you will have the chance to see the pavilion from all different angles. Discovering something unique, something new or something amazing as you do so.

The Sand Garden

The bright white sands of the Sand Garden are among the first things you’ll see upon beginning your tour around the grounds. It is better known as the “Sea of Silver Sands.” In the centre of the meticulously manicured rows of sand is a grey cone called the “Moon Viewing Platform,” symbolizing Mount Fuji.

Since we were there so early in the morning, we saw the caretakers raking up the sand and placing it carefully in pristine rows. They would gently pick up fallen leaves, find rogue stones out of place, and delicately put them back where they belonged.

Hondo

Beside the sand garden lies the “Hondo” (the main hall). Although this building cannot be entered, you can still admire the exquisite wood carvings, dainty sliding doors, and paintings on the exterior walls. This building was where Yoshimasa studied the art of the tea ceremony. He was obsessed with creating the ideal setting and process for a tea ceremony and spent his retirement perfecting this performance. The tea room he designed would become the prototype for all future tea ceremony spaces. The doors are often left open a sliver, enough to peek inside to see some of the greatness he created.

Togudo

Beside the main hall is the Togudo. This was the Shogun’s study. The entire room was covered in tatami mats to create a comfortable zen-like environment for people to come and meditate.

Moss Garden

After the study, you head up the small hill which backs out on the grounds. This path will lead you to the moss garden. This garden was supposedly designed by the great Japanese landscape architect Sōami.

Inside the moss garden, you feel as if the world has disappeared. A little steam dribbles down the hill. Tiny bridges arch over the stream, and you can wander around, studying all the various plants which decorate the landscape.

The Reflective Pond

The reflective pond sits beside the moss garden. Manicured trees grow around it, reflecting into the glass-like water. The bright green colours of the trees are so vibrant it’s hard to believe it’s real.

I was the first one to venture into this area, and one of the caretakers was still walking around the paths, cleansing the pathways with holy water.

Lookout Point

From the back of the moss garden, a set of stairs will lead you up to the hill and towards a lookout point. At the top of the path, you can see over the tops of the buildings below and throughout Kyoto. The view is stunning, and even for people who might not be interested in the temple, this view will surely entice you to come and visit this magical place.

On the way down the path, you finish the circular walkway around the grounds and will once more pass by the Silver Pavillion. This is your last chance to look at it, this time a little more closely. See if you can spot any hidden details with which the architects have littered the exterior.

If you’ve never understood what ‘zen’ is, this is the place to find it. Zen is derived from the Chinese word ‘Chán,’ derived from the Indian practice of dhyāna or “meditation.” Zen is about self-control and finding insight into the nature of things. While it can be hard to make a quiet space in your hear when you’re travelling, try your best when you’re here to get in touch with that aspect of zen; sit in silence for a few minutes and reflect on the feeling of the world around you and be grateful for this amazing journey you are on.

What is your favourite place in the world to find Zen? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Guide to Ginkaku-ji, The Silver Pavilion Kyoto first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. Hours & Admission
3. History
4. Hike up Higashiyama
5. Niō-mon Gate
6. Koyasu Pagoda
7. Shoro
8. The Main Hall
9. Zuigudo Hall
10. Jishu Shrine

Access

Kiyomizu-Dera is best reached by bus from Kyoto station. Hop on bus number 100 or 206. The journey takes about 15 minutes and costs 230 yen for the one-way ride. Jump off at Gojo-zakat or Kiyomizu-michi bus stop. The rest of the trip to the temple is on foot, walking uphill along Higashiyama.

Hours & Admission

The temple is open every day from 6:00 am to 6:00 pm from October to April and from 6:00 am to 6:30 pm from April to September. The admission costs 400 yen. During the Spring and Fall, they have a special event where they illuminate parts of the temple with lights. During this festival, the temple is open from 6:00 pm to 9:00 pm. It costs an additional 400 yen to enter to see the spectacle.

History

Kiyomizu-Dera was founded here in 778, but most of the buildings you’ll see today were built in 1633. In 1994, the temple was added to the list of UNESCO world heritage sites. It was nominated (although lost in the end) to become one of the New 7 Wonders of the World.

The name ‘Kiyomizu-dera’ comes from the waterfall which flows through the grounds since the word ‘Kiyoi mizu’ means pure water. The waterfall trickles down from the mountains and breaks into three streams at the shrine. Each of the streams is known to endow the drinker with a particular benefit; life longevity, success at school or happy love life. Long poles with cups attached to the end are provided for people to drink the water. It is thought to be greedy to drink from all three, and one must choose their greatest desire and drink only that one stream.

Hike up Higashiyama

To get to Kiyomizu-Dera, you begin with a ten-minute hike uphill along Higashiyama. The walk-up Higashiyama is part of the entire experience of Kiyomizu-Dera. These shops along the route have served pilgrims who came to pray at the shrine for hundreds of years.

These buildings are ancient and look like they’ve stood in the same place since the temple’s construction. Although the hordes of tourists, Pokemon t-shirts and Hello Kitty hats might take you out of the historical mindset, don’t let that spoil your experience. Focus on the old signage, the cracked old roofs and the kind faces of women who’ve served travellers for ages.

Nama Yatsuhashi

A favoured treat to get is the Nama Yatsuhashi. This dessert is made from mochi pounded into a smooth dough with a sweet filling sandwiched and shaped into a triangle. The fillings include bean paste, strawberry, blueberry and green tea. One of the few safe treats for those who have Celiac disease or are gluten intolerant.

Shopping Along the Way

The shops on Higashiyama carry local specialties like pottery, textiles, housewares and handmade crafts. The fan shops along the street sell traditionally made Japanese fans from local artisans, the perfect piece of decor to take home that’s easy to pack!

Niō-mon Gate

When you finally reach the temple, you’re first greeted by the giant “Niō-mon” gate. The gate was originally built in the late 15th century but refurbished in 2003. The bright vermillion colour, which was used since vermillion represents life and eternity, stands out against the bright blue sky. It feels as though it is almost glowing!

Nio

On either side of the gate are two massive wooden warriors hidden behind the green lattice. These soldiers are called “Nio” (the two kings), and the entrance is named after them. As you walk up the stairs, you will also pass two stone Lion dogs who also serve as guardians of the temple.

In front of the gate are a series of bright green bushes surrounding the temple’s base. Many women dressed in stunning kimonos stand here, posing as their families take pictures. The bushes hid the temple’s foundations and allowed the shrine to feel as though it simply sprouted from the earth.

Koyasu Pagoda

At the top of the stairs lies the vermillion, three-storied Koyasu Pagoda. Visitors who come to the pagoda and pray here are said to be blessed with safe childbirth and happiness for their children. The different layers of the pagoda fan out like wings against the sky.

Shoro

Beside the pagoda, you can also see the “Shoro” (or belfry) with a time-worn bell cast in 1478. The dazzling paint on all the structures is so impressive. One can only imagine the awe it would instill in the viewer coming here in the Edo period.

The Main Hall

The Main Hall is the biggest draw of the temple. The hall was built without a single nail. Its wooden veranda juts out 13 meters over the forest floor below, with an unrivalled view of the city below.

When the sun goes down, this is one of the best times to be on the veranda, as the city’s silhouette against the setting sun is spectacular. In Kyoto, an expression says, “to jump off the stage at Kiyomizu.” Which is like the English phrase “to take the plunge.” In the Edo period, people would jump 13 meters from the veranda to the ground. If they survived, their wish would be granted by the gods as a reward for their bravery. Surprisingly enough, 85% of the people who jumped survived, but the practice is banned today.

Zuigudo Hall

Behind the main hall, we can find the Zuigudo Hall. This building is dedicated to Buddha’s mother. Inside you must wander through a pitch-black basement which is thought to symbolize the womb.

Jishu Shrine

Behind Kiyomizu-Dera, you will find an equally famous spot, the Jishu Shrine. This shrine is dedicated to the deity of love and matching making, so singletons worldwide will come here to pray for their true love.

In front of the shrine are two large stones placed 18 meters apart. The person looking for love is blindfolded and must walk from one rock to another. If you need help finding the other stone, that means you will need help from someone else to find your true love in your future life.

Shaka Buddha

One of the smaller halls towards the back is dedicated to the Shaka Buddha, and surrounding the perimeter of this shrine are over 200 stone statues of Jizo, the protector of children and travellers.

Just wandering through the temple is a transcending experience. The intense colours of the buildings and the even brighter coloured kimonos worn by visitors make the entire space feel like a moving art gallery.

There was nothing like being up here as the sun began to set and seeing the city of Kyoto from high above. Although it’s a bit of a trek and the number of tourists might seem daunting, this is truly one of the most spectacular sights in Kyoto. When there are so many temples and shrines, it’s often difficult to know which ones are worth seeing, but this one is easily one of the best.

What was your favourite temple in Kyoto? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers

The post Discovering the Secrets of Kiyomizu-dera Temple, A Guide to Kyoto first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Guide to Gion Kyoto

1. History
2. Access
3. When To Go?
4. Map of Walking Tour
5. Maruyama Park
6. Yasaka Shrine
7. Shijo-Dori
8. Hanamikoji South
   • About Geishas
   • Red Lanterns
9. Ichiriki-tei
10. Geikos and Maikos
    • Geikos
11. Patisserie Gion Sakai
12. Hanamikoji North
13. Maiko Lessons
14. Gion Tatsumi Bridge
15. Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine
16. Shirakawa Canal
17. Kyōto Minami-za Theatre
18. Temple of Chugen-ji
19. Kamo River Bridge
20. Pontocho Alley
21. Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi
22. Kiyamachi Dori

History

Kyoto was the Imperial capital of Japan from 794 -1869. As a great metropolis, it required the best entertainment for its dignitaries and foreign guests. Unlike many movie portrayals or common myths, Geishas or ‘Geikos‘ are not escorts or prostitutes. They are professional entertainers. Geikos and Maikos are the words for Geishas and Geishas-in-training in Kyoto. Geiko literally translates into “a woman of art.” Geikos are trained in all the different art forms of traditional Japanese art. They will be proficient in playing music, painting, flower arranging, singing and dancing.

Access

Gion is located along the Kamo River and can be easily reached by public transit. The closest train station is the Gion Shijo Station on the Keihan Line and Kawaramachi Station on the Hankyu Line. You can also reach the area by bus #100 or #206 and get off at the Gion bus stop. Public transit costs only 230 yen ($2 US). If you choose to take a taxi, you can ask for it to drop you at the first location, Maruyama Park. However, taxis are pretty pricey (at least $15 US and up depending on your departure location), so I’d advise public transit.

When To Go?

This tour aims to take you around the historic area of Gion while stopping in at the Gion Theatre to see a show in the middle of the tour. This part is totally optional, and you can easily just continue on from there without attending. But I think seeing a performance at the theatre is a great introduction to the art of being a Geisha and gives you an idea of what’s going on behind those closed tea house doors. The performances are at 6:00 pm and 7:00 pm, and I would aim to get a ticket for the 7:00 pm show to give yourself enough time to explore the north-western parts of Gion.

The best time to start this tour is around 5:30 pm, just before dusk. Most of the earlier parts of the journey are best seen when it’s light out, but Gion takes on a different shape when night falls. The red lamps are lit, reflecting off the water like stars in the sky. Any sign of modernity seems to dissipate, and you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Just before dusk, the Geishas will exit their apartments and head to the tea houses for their nightly routines. If you want to see one, this is your best opportunity! Use this map at the bottom of this post to help navigate your way around Gion, but since it’s a small area, don’t worry about getting lost!

Map of Walking Tour

Maruyama Park

Start your walking tour of Gion inside Maruyama Park. If you’re lucky enough to visit Maruyama Park during cherry blossom season, you’re in for a real treat. This park is the best place for cherry blossom viewing in Kyoto. The most impressive sight here is the ‘shidarezakura,’ a weeping cherry tree which lights up at night. It’s truly an ethereal sight! The garden feels like a treasure even during the rest of the year. It is even designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty.’

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Yasaka Shrine

From the park, walk through the winding pathways to Yasaka Shrine, which sits just at the end of Shijō Street. Yasaka is the spiritual centre of Gion and the reason everything around it exists. In the middle ages, hundreds and thousands of people came through this area to make a pilgrimage to the shrine. The neighbourhood was built around it to feed and house all the travellers passing through.

A shrine has stood on this site since 656, but the Yasaka Shrine was founded in 1350. It was built to honour Susanoo-no-Mikoto, a Japanese god who defeated an eight-headed serpent and saved the citizens of Kyoto from many disasters. This temple comes alive in a different way during the evening or at dusk. The hundreds of lanterns hanging outside the temple, each one donated from a local business with their name inscribed upon it, are lit up when the sun goes down. It is a remarkable site to see against the backdrop of the bright, vermilion-painted torii gates.

Shijo-Dori

After touring the temple, head down to Shijo-Dori, Shijo Dori (dori means street) is the best place to shop in Gion. Here you can find traditional sweet shops, pickles and handicrafts all along this green-roofed and lantern-covered street. This is the most modern area of Gion, with offices and some big-name brands, but any roads that branch off from Shijo will take you right back in time.

Hanamikoji South

A few steps down the street along Shijo-Dori, turn right onto Hanamikoji. Hanamikoji is the real heart of Gion. It is where you’ll find the best-preserved aspects of the city’s architecture and culture. Along this street, it feels as though time has stopped. Hanami-koji means “blossom viewing lane” since during the cherry blossom season, this street explodes with blooms and feels like they encompass the entirety of the skyline.

Along this street, you’ll find some of the oldest establishments in Kyoto called ‘ochayas,’ or teahouses and ‘Machiya’ or ‘townhouses.’ The buildings are all designed similarly, reflecting aspects of traditional Kyoto architecture. They are mostly made of wood, with no windows on the streets to protect the identity of their customers. Each has a wooden lattice facade that runs halfway up the house’s exterior and is topped with baked tile roofs. Most of the houses are unpainted, although the ones which cater to Geishas are given a coat of red or scarlet paint to distinguish them from the rest in a subtle way. Elegantly dressed bouncers wait in from of open doorways, secretly ushering in the elite customers and elegant Geishas away from the rabble on the street.

About Geishas

There aren’t many options for those wondering how you can experience an evening with a Geisha for yourself. Most Geishas are extremely expensive, even if you can get the contacts to book a dinner with them. They don’t just have a phone line or website where you can make a reservation. You need to know someone who can give you a reference to get you in. Some tourist services offer evening dinners with “geishas,” but often, these aren’t real. More often than not, it’s just a woman in a costume pretending to be a geisha.

Remember, if it’s the real thing, it will cost a pretty penny, so if you feel like it’s too good to be true – it is. If you manage to get the right introductions to make a reservation, an evening’s entertainment will start at $700 US, and that’s not even including dinner or drinks.

Red Lanterns

The red lanterns that hang outside humble townhouses are used to indicate these are ‘ochayas.’ Guests will enjoy an evening of entertainment and fine dining hosted by the Geishas and their house mother. They will sing and dance for their guests while food is served. Geishas are also incredible musicians and will often treat their guests to songs played on the Shamisen (a smaller and thinner kind of guitar), the Koto (the national instrument of Japan played like a horizontal guitar), the Shakuhachi (a bamboo flute) and the Tsuzumi (a small tribal drum). Geishas delight in playing traditional Japanese drinking games with the most excellent sake with the businessmen.

Ichiriki-tei

A few steps down the Hanamikoji is Ichiriki-tei or Ichiriki Tea House. This is the most famous tea house in a 300-year-old red-painted house. Ichiriki-tei’s reservations are by invitation only, and the people coming in and out of its doors are sure to be of great importance. It has been the scene of many samurai plots over the years and where prominent governmental figures met and discussed the future of their great city. Although you might not be able to get inside, seeing this iconic building, even from the outside, is truly special.

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Geikos and Maikos

Hanamikoji is the best place to spot a Geisha, so keep your eye peeled. Geisha are more appropriately called Geikos and Maikos. You’ll also see dozens of tourists dressed in fancy kimonos and some fake Geishas posing for pictures. If you’re trying to spot a real Geisha, there are ways to identify them. Maikos (Geishas in training) will have decorations like flowers in their hair, while a Geiko (a fully trained Geisha) will not. Also, the Maikos obis (the belt they wear around their kimono) will stretch almost to the ground.

In contrast, the Geikos obi is neatly folded around her back. The ultimate way to tell the difference is through the shoes. Geikos have flat shoes called ‘zoris’ while the Maikos wear the iconic mile-high platforms called ‘okobos.’

The Geikos have a much more subdued appearance than their trainee counterparts because these women have already made it and don’t need to show off. To become a real Geiko or Geisha, you must go through years of rigorous training. Most girls start training at the age of 15. Then they attend Geisha schools where they learn all the skills required to entertain their guests. Since they are not making any money, their home mother pays for their schooling, training and clothing. The house mother is also called the ‘okasan.’

Geikos

After they become full-fledged Geikos, they must pay off their debts to the house mother, who will get them jobs and find them clients. Many girls dream of becoming Geikos despite it being a rather ancient occupation. Geikos are now becoming famous on the internet, and young girls dream of becoming instant-famous. Just like girls in North America look up to celebrities, girls in Japan look up to these elegant professional party girls. If you see a Maiko or Geiko in the streets, be respectful. They don’t mind if you take a picture, but they won’t stop to chat. If they’re on the street, they are on their way to work and don’t have time to dillydally. Let them go their way, and just allow yourself to observe their majestic presence.

Patisserie Gion Sakai

Past Ichiriki-tei, stop in at Patisserie Gion Sakai. Gion is famous for its sweets. Nothing was better for a Geisha to bring a samurai than a sweet treat. Patisserie Gion Sakai is found inside a traditional wooden-style townhouse. While there are various other things to try, I’d go right for the fluffy cake rolls filled with sweet cream. Some of their more traditional flavours include plum, blood orange and matcha.

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Hanamikoji North

After the show, head north along Hanamikoji; many of the houses along the Hanamikoji north of Shijo-dori are old merchant houses. These charmingly preserved townhouses represent the architectural style of ancient Imperial Kyoto. They have been here for centuries and once would have served the ancient samurais. These days not all the shops on the street cater to knights of the empire. You can find some well-priced restaurants along one of Kyoto’s famous laneways.

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Maiko Lessons

Along Hanamikoji north, see if you can spot one of the Maiko Lesson Boards. These boards aren’t identified with large signage, so they’re a little hard to spot, but they can be found if you know what you’re looking for. Look for a large green board with a chart covered in vertical, white Kanji letters. This is their agenda for the day, saying which classes they need to attend with what teachers are around town. Maikos will stop here throughout the day to see where to head to class since their classes can be found all across Gion in unassuming townhouses instead of one schoolroom. The entire life of Geisha is one of secrecy and illusion, and even their classes reflect this.

Gion Tatsumi Bridge

At the end of Hanamikoji, you’ll come to the Gion Tatsumi Bridge. This bridge is one of the most iconic places for a picture across the Shirakawa Canal. On either side of the canal, you’ll find willow trees whose leaves hang over the water and onto the street, creating a soft, green canopy. Truly one of the most spectacular places in Kyoto. During the day, this bridge can be overrun, but at night you are likely to find it all to yourself.

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Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine

On the other side of the bridge, you’ll find the Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine. This tiny neighbourhood shrine, almost completely obscured in darkness at night, is frequented by many local Geishas. Besides the shine is a stone inscribed with a poem by the famous poet Isamu Yoshii. It was made to honour the artist since he greatly loved Gion. The poem reads:

No matter what is said
it is Gion I love.
Even when I sleep
beneath my pillow
the water flows…

Shirakawa Canal

Walking along the Shirakawa Canal is a great place to wander, away from the hustle and bustle of the main street. Some of the city’s most exclusive eating establishments are located along this canal. If any celebrities are visiting the city, you’ll surely spot them here. While the canal is gorgeous to view during the day, there is something extraordinary about seeing it at night, when the trees are alight, and the sparkling stars reflect across the water. Only your footsteps on the stone sidewalk echo across the street.

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Kyōto Minami-za Theatre

Head back down towards Shijo-Dori now that night has fallen. Turning back onto the part of this street that we haven’t yet explored, check out the Minamiza Kabuki Theater. At night this theatre is a beacon of light in the darkness. The Minamiza is the best kabuki theatre in Kyoto. It was founded in 1610, but the one you see standing here today is a reconstruction from 1929. Kyoto is the birthplace of kabuki, and there is no better place in the world to see kabuki as a first-timer or experienced veteran. Kabuki is much like European opera but with a Japanese twist that includes more drama, colours and spectacle!

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Temple of Chugen-ji

Near the Kabuki theatre, down the cobblestone streets next to the Kamo River, we find the tiny Temple of Chugen-ji. You’ll discover ‘Jizo,’ a Buddhist guardian saint, inside this temple. But this Jizo enshrined here is extra special. During the great floods of 1228, the people of Gion prayed to Jizo to save their town from the rising waters. People claimed they saw Jizo physically saving people from the flood and saw him stop the rain. This temple is dedicated to the god who saved the town; perhaps without his intervention, it wouldn’t be here today.

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Kamo River Bridge

Head across the Kamo River Bridge and take a moment to look across the water. The Kamo River has served over the years as a place of great importance for the people of Kyoto. The river was diverted in the 8th century to ensure the new course past the town’s new capital Heian Capital (now called Kyoto). The river was not only a place for the locals to get their drinking water. Still, it was where many of the local fabric makers would come to dye their beautiful fabrics. Pottery makers would begin to get supplies for their work, two iconic symbols of Kyoto craftsmanship.

Pontocho Alley

Across the bridge, you’ll come to Pontocho Alley. This narrow alleyway, marked with a simple wooden sign, runs parallel to the Kamo river. The fancy restaurants overlook the river bank on the right, and the less pricey, more authentic restaurants are off to the left. Although this street feels a bit dingy during the day, at night, it comes alive with paper lanterns, neon signage, and music pouring out of the nearby clubs. There are a few elite theatres around here where Maikos and Geikos perform, so if you didn’t spot one on the other side of the river, this might be your chance to see one here.

Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat, head to Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi, where they serve traditional yakitori. They have a great selection of different kinds of yakitori (food on skewers cooked over a charcoal grill) for reasonable prices. Plus, you have a great view of the cooks at work which is like having dinner and a show!

Kiyamachi Dori

Making your way down the southern part of Gion, take a walk down Kiyamachi Dori. Kiyamachi Dori is another historic street in Gion. The road is located along the embankment of the Takase River, which was actually a man-made canal made in 1586 when a wealthy merchant decided to dig it out. He wanted to create a new waterway to bring in stone and other materials from Fushimi into Kyoto. Although the canal was taken out of service in 1920, it still makes for a scenic walkway; at night, a vast stretch of the street is dazzlingly illuminated. This is the perfect and most peaceful place to end your tour in this historical area of Kyoto.

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With this guide, you can head out and explore Gion on your own, at your own pace and venture off from the large tour groups, which can make what should be a quiet, relaxing stroll into a fierce and crowded experience. Plus, you can follow your instincts when you go on your own; if something looks interesting, go off the path and check it out! You might be surprised by what you find around the next corner.

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Historic Gion Kyoto first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. Arashiyama Countryside
3. Arriving in Arashiyama
4. Finding your Way into the Grove
5. When to Arrive
   • The Bamboo
6. The Importance of Bamboo in Japan
7. Nonomiya Shrine
   • Marriage and Childbirth Shrine
8. Bamboo Grove Cemetery
9. Sagano Scenic Railway
10. Street Artisans
11. Modes of Transportation through the Forest
    • Additional Sights in Arashiyama

Access

We set off to Arashiyama by bus. There are multiple ways of getting to the Grove, and most people will opt for the train option since you avoid the chance of getting into any traffic jams, but the bus route for us was much faster from our destination, so always be sure to check before departing to see which route will be the fastest from your location. The bus does have a bonus aspect of seeing Kyoto and the surrounding countryside as you drive.

We took the #73 bus from outside Higashihonganji Temple. It cost just 230 yen for the entire journey. Remember on the buses in Kyoto you pay your far after you exit the bus, not when you get on. To get there by rail, you simply take a train from Kyoto Station and take the JR Sagano/San-in Main Line to Saga-Arashiyama Station. The ride takes 15 minutes followed by a 10-minute walk to the Bamboo Grove. The ride costs 240 yen.

Arashiyama Countryside

As you approach Arashiyama, the first thing you’ll see is that the flat vistas disappear for mountainous ranges. In the early 700-1100s, wealthy nobles would travel to Arashiyama to enjoy its natural landscape and escape the city. While it’s still true that people come here as an escape, now this place is for everyone, rich or poor. The word “Arashiyama” translates into “Storm Mountain”. The mountains here are covered in lush trees, and because of this, they are slightly dark, giving them their intimidating name. The mountains look down on the Ōi River, creating a picturesque view as you drive in.

Arriving in Arashiyama

Arriving in Arashiyama, you get off the bus and walk up the main street to enter the forest. Entering the forest by bus also gives you access to the less used entrance, and you’ll notice that there are much fewer people here than where the train station drops people off. The streets of Arashiyama in the early morning are relatively quiet. The main street of Arashiyama is quite touristy, so early in the morning not many people are out walking the streets. Arriving as early as you can is the best way to view both the city and the forest before it is overrun with sightseers.

Even the manhole covers here in Arashiyama reflect the natural surroundings.

Finding your Way into the Grove

The Bamboo Grove, take up over 500 meters of winding pathways. To get to the start of the path, head west from the train station. There are dozens of signs in English and Japanese to help guide your way. The entrance to the beginning of the bamboo grove is flanked on either side by thick concrete walls and it’s strange to this that this narrow, cold passageway will open up into a spectacular oasis. The grove is never closed and there is (currently) no admission to enter. But like Venice, who city council is now charging admission to enter it’s ever growing popular city center, this could change over time to help preserve the forest.

When to Arrive

Obviously everyone wants to be here when you’ll have a clear shot of the grove without anyone in the way. And while there are those precious few rare moments they’re very hard to find. Lots of people will tell you to come even before sunrise. And while that’s probably your best chance, even those super early risers have been disappointed to see that hundreds of other had the same idea.

My advice is to take the crowds as they come and not to stress about waking up SUPER early on what’s supposed to be a relaxing vacation. I actually found that later in the afternoon there were the least amount of people in comparison to the morning. It seemed like the tour buses were well on their way home as the sun began to set. But even with tourists aplenty there is still plenty to enjoy and ways to get those amazing shots!

If one area becomes inundated with people, quickly pass through the crowd, and suddenly you’ll see that the path opens up. The dense areas of individuals tend to be formed by bus tours, all walking through together, so if you pass by them quickly, you might find that space they just left is pretty empty. A lot of these tour buses also don’t spend too much time in the forest. They enter at the beginning of the path but never make it to the end. I found that if you walk to the very end of the grove you’ll find that by the end of the path, you’ll have the place to yourself at times.

The Bamboo

As you first walk into the forest, you’ll be immediately struck with the overwhelming quiet that the grove creates. You are enveloped by these towering emerald stalks, so tall they almost stop light from entering in. The bamboo itself is truly stunning. The stalks are so thick and bright green in the sunlight. The trunks creak ever so much when a big gust of wind passes through, and they make the eeriest, yet wonderfully delicate, noise. Like a old, worn floor when you walk across it in the night.

The Importance of Bamboo in Japan

While the Bamboo Forest is not only gorgeous to look at their importance to Japan spreads farther than just a pretty picture. Bamboo is one of the strongest plants there is. Standing up, so straight and tall, one wonders how that’s scientifically possible, They sway and bend in the wind and yet almost never crack. In fact, historically people would run into the bamboo groves when there was an earthquake since the root structure of the bamboo was so strong it would even withstand such a powerful force as an earthquake.

One of the most popular uses of this strong material was in building roads and in the construction of houses. You’ll still see many construction sites in Japan using bamboo as scaffolding to this day since it is so strong. Bamboo is used to ward off evil and people also write their wishes on strips of paper made from bamboo during large Japanese festivals. It’s used to create wind instruments and handicrafts. It’s also used as an important ingredients in many Japanese and international dishes as well as for many herbal remedies. There are so many things which incorporated bamboo within the daily life of a person in Japan and it’s important to keep this in mind when exploring the forest.

Nonomiya Shrine

Different parts of the path veer off giving access to the various other attractions that are housed inside the forest. The Tenryuji temple and Nonomiya Shrine serve as markers which flank either end of the path. Inside the bamboo grove, you’ll stumble upon the Nonomiya Shrine. This little Shinto shrine is where unmarried imperial princesses have journeyed to purify themselves before their marriage. The deities that are enshrined here include “Nonomiya Okami”; God of Health and Wisdom, “Shirafuku Inari Daimmyojin”; God of Conception, Smooth Childbirth, and Prosperous Business, “Shiramine Benzaiten” and most importantly for single women, “Nonomiya Daikokuten”; God for Matchmaking.

Good luck talismans are sold near the shrine to give good fortunes to the receivers. Their colourful embroidery is so striking and makes even the happiest person feel in “need” of a good luck charm.

Marriage and Childbirth Shrine

Many couples make their way here to pray for a good marriage with their partners. We were sure to stop momentarily to ring the bell, clap our hands, and bow to the shrine. A little more luck can’t even hurt

This shrine is also a place where married couples wish for a healthy baby and painless childbirth. So you’ll often happy couples holding hands or pregnant women writing their wishes on the ema boards near the front of the temple.

Bamboo Grove Cemetery

Beside the temple, there is a cemetery with hundreds of obelisk stones standing guard beside the gate. Each one represents either a person or an entire family, who are entombed below. Since it is law in Japan that a person is cremated after death, whole families are often buried together. Their living relatives will often come to visit their graves and place offerings when they do. These offerings are often things the people enjoyed in their waking life. You’ll see things like books, beers and even dishes of food laid out on top of the stones. It’s a wonderful tradition that makes it feel like those people are still with us. Coming out at night to dine, read or drink in the moonlight.

Sagano Scenic Railway

At the end of the woods, you’ll come across the Sagano Scenic Railway, which has also been dubbed “the Romantic Train”. It’s a retro-style steam train which runs along the Hozu River, giving viewers some fantastic views of Arashiyama as it chugs along. The station itself is stunning and makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

Street Artisans

Throughout the maze of bamboo, artisans pop up around every corner, selling various crafts made out of the pliable substance. They shape the bamboo into birds and animals with the most delicate touch.

Modes of Transportation through the Forest

Bicycle rentals around the grove are available is you want to cruise through the grove as well as explore the other areas around the forest. Bicycle rentals will cost you around 500-1500 yen per day depending on where you pick up your rental. There are also many rickshaws which will carry you and one other person through the pathways. These tend to be pretty expensive with prices ranging from 5,000 to 7,000 yen for a 20 mins ride for two people.

These will not only take you through the forest but the surrounding village as well. It’s comparable to prices of gondolas in Venice. Personally I think it’s much more enjoyable to watch these rickshaws run by than ride inside them but that simply because I’d prefer to save that money for a delicious meal. I found the best way to explore was by foot. Take your time. Listen to the wind blowing through the bamboos and soak up as much of the tranquility as you can.

Additional Sights in Arashiyama

To escape some of the busier moment in the forest I recommend heading over to the Okochi-Sanso Villa or the Tenryuji temple. Both of these places charge a small admission to enter but by charging a small amount to explore this both reduces and controls the traffic as well as helps preserve the environment.

Something for Arashiyama to consider for the Bamboo Forest itself is a small entry fee to enter the grove. This is something Venice is also implementing to help preserve their historical city center against day trippers who come in and don’t spend any money in the town itself. Arashiyama has a similar problem with bus tours who simply arrive at the forest, drop the tourists off, allow them a short time to explore the forest. Then, they pile them back on the bus without giving them anytime to explore the town and spend some money their to help the villagers support their hometown. I implore you if you are visiting the grove to make a time to explore the entirety of Arashiyama Village.

The bamboo forest is truly one of the most incredible nature wonders of the world and a MUST for anyone visiting Japan. Don’t miss out. Don’t get caught up with the crowds. Come with realistic expectations of how many other people want to see this incredible place. You most likely won’t have it all to yourself but how can you blame other for also wanting to see this wonder? Finding peace within this chaos isn’t something that comes easy, but when you do find it, that’s what makes the journey worth it.

The post Our Guide to Exploring the Natural Wonders of the Beautiful Arashiyama Bamboo Grove first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. Admission and Hours
   • Special Admission to the Dharma Hall
3. History
4. Hyakka'en garden
5. Chōzubachi
6. Views from the Shrine
7. Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden
8. Dragon Gate Falls
9. The Sand Garden
10. Rinzai School of Zen Buddhism
11. The Teaching Temple
12. The Hojo
    • Daihojo
    • Kohojo
      • Happy Travels, Adventurers

Access

Tenryu-ji is just a short walk from the Keifuku Arashiyama Station. If you’re travelling directly from Kyoto Station though the best way to access the temple is from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station. From JR Saga-Arashiyama Station it’s only a 5-10 minute walk to the temple. The ride from Kyoto station is about 20 minutes long and costs 240 yen.

Admission and Hours

There are two options for ticketing when you come in. You can pay 500 yen ($5 USD) to enter the gardens only or pay an extra 300 yen ($3 USD) which will allow you to also enter the interior of the building. The price difference is pretty minimal, and for anyone interested in Japanese architecture and Buddhism, purchasing the interior ticket is worth the extra cash. The temple is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm 365 days a year.

Special Admission to the Dharma Hall

Please note that Dharma Hall requires an additional admission fee of ¥500. The Dharma Hall is open on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays only, and during specially designated periods during the spring and autumn. The Hatto (where the Cloud Dragon is located) is closed to the public on December 31th 2023 to January 2nd, 2024.

History

The Tenryuji temple was first built in 1339 by the ruling Shogun Ashikaga Takauji. Takauji had quarrelled against Emperor Go-Daigo over the supremacy of Japan. When the emperor died, Takauji didn’t have the chance to mend the tensions between the two powerful men. This open-ended disagreement didn’t sit well with Takauji, and so he decided to build the temple in honour of the emperor in the hope of appeasing the emperor’s spirit.

Hyakka’en garden

Walking through the north gate, you first enter the Hyakka’en (flower garden). The Hyakka’en garden is covered in flowering trees, bushes and lush herbs. It was so intensely green and lush. Since it has been growing for over 700 years, it has had the change to no longer feel like it was designed, more like it grew exactly like this. In the flower garden, there was a large bamboo grove where newer bamboo stalks grow. Baby bamboo, you might say

Chōzubachi

As you walk into the temple ground, it is customary that you cleanse your hands. This action will help clean your body and mind. The first step is to pick up the water ladle with your right hand. Then scoop water and wash left hand. Then switch the ladle to your left hand, and wash right hand. Finally, pour some water into your hand and wash your mouth. Spit the water out as rinsing; this is not considered rude as the water is not safe to ingest.

Near the cleansing fountain, you’ll also find a pond full of ceramic frogs where people will throw coins and make wishes.

Views from the Shrine

Before heading around the corner to the large Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden and the main buildings, try taking a walk up the set of stairs to the left of the gardens. This is large hill gives climbers an incredible view of the garden below, Arashiyama and even the mountains far off in the distance.

Walk up the hill and take in the incredible views from the top. There are several benches up where you can stop and have a little snack. Put away your phones and, just for a few minutes, quietly enjoy the peace and tranquility. Most people run up, take a picture and run back down. But when we visited, we were so happy to find ourselves in a moment of the day when we weren’t in a rush and could just take the day as it came. We listened to the gentle rattle of the bamboo grove behind us and the sound of running water trickling from the fountains below.

Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden

The Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden is one of the most important attractions of the temple. It is over 700 years old, designed by Zen master Muso Soseki. Walking through it is like stepping back in time. The surrounding buildings might have been destroyed by fires many times over the years, but the garden has remained the same. Hundreds and hundreds of years memories encased in the water, sand and trees that surround it.

Sogenchi Teien has been dubbed a “strolling” garden since it contains features which can be explored and appreciated from various areas along a level path. The huge pond which stands in the centre of the temple acts as a giant reflecting pool. Mirroring the mountains and the trees around it.

The garden has long been a place for quiet reflections for the Japanese. In 1799 the garden appeared in one of the earlier sightseeing guides of the area. Inside the book, there was a wood print of what the garden once looked like and shockingly enough, aside from many more people, there isn’t a thing that has changed.

Dragon Gate Falls

Across the pond, you can see Dragon Gate Falls. This is made up of several large stones, symbolizing carps swimming upstream. It is an allegory of an old Chinese myth. It goes that “if a carp can swim up a waterfall, it will be turned into a great dragon.” The story in the centre of the pond symbolizing the carps transformations that come only with enlightenment and encourages all those come here to visit or to study to find the same thing.

The Sand Garden

Beside the pond lies a sand garden which had been raked into perfectly straight lines. These sand gardens were intended for spiritual reflection and helped the monks on-site practice meditation.

Rinzai School of Zen Buddhism

The temple is now the headquarter of the Rinzai School of Zen Buddhism. In the Rinzai Zen school, there is great emphasis put on “seeing one’s true nature”. While walking up and down the pathways, I tried my best to get in touch with my true nature, my inner self. Although I didn’t come to any huge realizations, I did feel deep down a massive sense of accomplishment in being here. When I was sick never thought I would get better. When I was alone and I never thought I would be in love again. And yet here I was, alongside my husband, feeling great and explore a country I never would have seen were it not for him.

The Teaching Temple

Most of the buildings in and around Tenryuji are all reconstructions since fires over the years destroyed the originals and even subsequent constructions. The most impressive of all the buildings is the teaching temple. With so many tourists around it’s hard to forget that this temple is also school and an important one at that. The building which now serves as the school is a 1900 reconstruction. Inside you’ll find the image of Gautama Buddha, flanked by two guardians.

The Hojo

The Hojo is the largest structure in the compound, which is made up of two separate buildings; the Daihojo and the Kohojo.

Daihojo

The Daihojo is used only for ceremonies and other large events. Its iconic veranda surrounds the entire structure, providing a seamless combination of indoor and outdoor space for those inside. The floors inside are covered with traditional tatami mats, and rooms are separated by using sliding bamboo doors. Inside this building, we can also find the famous painting by Wakasa Butsugai of the iconic Cloud Dragon.

Kohojo

The Kohojo building serves as a greeting room for visitors and is not as formal as the Daihojo.

Finish your wander around the temple at the pond, filled with a multitude of koi fish. Looking down the large koi swimming around, it made me wonder how long some of these creatures had been around for. Considering the size of them, I wouldn’t be surprised if lurking under the surface there was one the size of the entire pond who started his life here and is still kickin’ it.

When you’re visiting Japan, there comes the point when every temple starts to look alike, and it can be difficult to figure out which ones are worth the visit. But this temple here surely does. It’s ancient garden and beautiful architecture, which seems to melt into the natural surroundings, is truly unique, and something is not to missed.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Step into the Serene World of Tenryu-ji Temple: Your Guide to Arashiyama’s Amazing Hidden Gem first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Admission and Hours

The fee seemed steep at 1,000 yen ($10 USD), but we decided to plop down a few yen and were inside. 1,000 yen might look like a lot for a self-guided walk through an old garden, but it was some of the best money we spent on the trip! The gardens are open from 9 am to 5 pm.

Access

From Kyoto Station, take the Japan Railways (JR) Saiin Line to Saga Arashiyama Station. It is a fifteen-minute walk from there.

History

The Ōkōchi Sansō was once the estate of a famous Japanese actor Okochi Denjiro (1898-1962). He became a star at a young age. But instead of blowing the money on cars, drugs or clothes as young stars do now – he decided to build this monument to Japanese architecture. He built this villa and the gardens as an escape, and it was opened to the public after his death. Now, it offers the public the sense of escape it once offered him.

The buildings within the garden have been recorded as cultural properties by the national government. Most of them were constructed in the 1930s and 40s except for the Jibutsudō, an original structure from the Meiji Era that was moved from its original location to this site after Okochi Denjiro purchased it to save it from destruction.

Chūmon Gate

To set off on the walking tour of the gardens, one only has to follow the signs along the pathway. The thing you’ll pass by is the Chūmon. A Chūmon, or “intermediate gate”, is built to divide the outer and inner tea gardens. It is where the host would meet his guests as he invited them inside for tea. Stepping through the gate is like being welcomed home.

Daijōkaku

After passing through this gate, you come upon the main building in the compound, the Daijōkaku. This is where Denjiro Okochi’s bedroom used to be and where he would spend most of his free time when he wasn’t entertaining in the tea house. The house is known for being one of the best examples of traditional Japanese residential architecture. It combines many styles of Japanese architecture, such as shoin-zukuri and sukiya-zukuri.

Architecture

These architectural styles seem in direct opposition, one for large, opulent houses and the other, meaning literally, “a small space, simple and austere.” The shinden-zukuri was a style of architecture that flourished in the Heian period. These buildings faced south, were comprised of a single story and were raised off the ground with wooden pillars. There was no tatami flooring, and the roof was made with cypress shingles. The sukiya-zukuri architecture uses slender wood elements and the simplicity of ornamentation.

From the front of the Daijōkaku, you have a lovely view of the forest and the mountain to the south. But this view pales compared to the one you get at the top of the garden path. After taking in the view here for a bit, we headed back off on the trail.

Flora and Fauna

The upper portion of the trail shows off the garden’s flora and fauna. The garden was designed to highlight all the different seasons. So no matter when you visit, there is always something stunning. Unlike some gardens where they only have one season of truly spectacular foliage or flowers, this garden can be enjoyed throughout the year. In the spring, we have cherry blossoms, azaleas in the summer, Japanese maple trees for the fall, and pine trees for the winter months. Until this point in the trip, we hadn’t seen many autumn colours since it was fairly early. But here, trees were starting to change colour, and the orange and gold leaves glowed against the crystal blue sky.

The grounds themselves take up about 20,000 square meters, and the guest pathway only shows you a small portion of the villa. One can only imagine what treasures are hidden in this estate. You’ll discover Buddha statues, water features, sculptures hidden in Cyprus trees and rose bushes throughout the stone path.

Hozu River Gorge

At the top of the path, you’ll come to a lookout point where you can see the slopes of Mount Hiei, Mount Arashi and Mount Ogura and the Hozu River gorge. Wandering in the Bamboo forest, you can’t see out to the landscape around you, but from up here, we saw things we never even would have known were there!

Senkaku Senkoji

Hidden in the mountains, you can see a tiny temple poking its head out of the trees. This is the Senkaku Senkoji temple. Its iconic coloured flags make it stand out amongst the green trees.

There is a term in landscape architecture called “borrowed scenery,” which means: “to incorporate the background landscape into the design.” Walking through the winding cobblestones and twisting pathways, you can understand this design as the garden and the forest seem intertwined.

Jibutsudō

The Jibutsudō, with its Irimoya-style roof, is a Buddhist shrine which was moved from its original location to the villa in Arashiyama. Jibutsudōs are buildings from the Meiji Era that were made for rich noblemen to practice Buddism in the comfort of their own homes. A private place of worship.

Chashitsu

Along this path, you’ll also find the original Chashitsu. This small tea room was designed for intimate gatherings with typical tea room features like soft, sliding doors made of wooden lattice covered in translucent Japanese paper, tatami mats and subdued colours.

Moon Light Pavilion

In my opinion, the piece-de-resistance of the whole estate is the Moon Light Pavilion. This open-air building is at the highest point in the garden and gives you the best view of Kyoto, the forest and the mountains. All are framed under a simplistic Japanese gazebo. Sitting here, you’ll feel on top of the world. The landscape below looked like a rainbow from here, orange and yellow trees, green mountains and a bright blue sky.

Tea Room

After the moon pavilion, we headed back down the trail to finish our tour with a cup of tea. Near the exit is a new tea room built to serve tea to all the guests who still visit this site, keeping Okochi Denjiro’s tradition alive. Inside this building, you are seated and served a hot cup of matcha tea and a little sweet treat.

We took a seat towards the back of the room with a view of the bamboo forest behind us. Here, surrounded only by a few other visitors, we had a private viewing of the famous bamboo forests where hundreds of tourists were crammed inside only hours earlier.

The tea itself was a welcome treat. The warm liquid hit the spot on a sunny but chilly, windy day. The matcha is slightly bitter and is purposefully served with the sweet candy cake to balance out the flavour of the tea.

Tea Room Experience

We sat quietly in the tea room for as long as we felt welcome (we honestly could have been forever). I read my guidebook and planned our next destination; Dan changed his phone and relaxed in the silent chatter of the tea room. We listened to other families talking about their travels. Taking a moment to step back and appreciate where we were, what we had done and what adventures were around the corner.

We said “arigato” and bowed deeply to the servers as we left. On the way out, many people approached the gate and turned away once reading the admission price. We shook our heads and smiled at each other as we had just uncovered a secret only we would take away with us. Don’t make the same mistake those people did. Come inside and soak it all in.

Your secret garden awaits.

The post Discovering the Hidden Gem in Arashiyama: A Guide to Kyoto’s Okochi Sanso Garden first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
   • The Inari Kami
3. Torii Gates
4. The Power of Vermilion
5. The Main Hall, ‘Hoden’
6. Offerings Hall, ‘Haiden’
7. Ema Plaques and Paper Cranes
8. Omikuji
9. The Beginning of the Hike
   • Buying a Torii Gate
10. Okusha Hohaisho
11. The Inner Shrine
    • Inari Foxes
    • Fox Emas
    • Mini Torri Gate Emas
    • Omokaru Ishi
12. Kumatakasha
13. Headquarters of the Inari Shrines
14. Bamboo Forest
15. Fushimishinpo Shrine
    • Shrine of the Mountain Hawk-Eagle
16. Yotsu-tsuji
17. Kami-no-Yashiro shrine
    • End of the Hike
    • Tsujiura senbei

Access

To get to the shrine, you can take the JR Nara Line to Inari Station, a short 7-minute ride from Kyoto Station only costs 140 yen. When you arrive at the station, you immediately notice the vermillion painted columns all over the platform, to replicate the torii gates at the shrine so you’ll know you’re in the right place.

Walking over from the station and looking up at the mountain, it doesn’t seem like such a difficult hike, but the trek will take you at least 2-3 hours. Even more, if you’re like me and stop along the way to study every shrine and take a million pictures.

History

To understand the significance this place, we must first understand a little bit about Shinto Shrines in general. A Shinto shrine is places of worship for Shintoist. It is also where the kami (Shinto gods) dwell. Inside these shrines are stored objects of worship for the kami. Since different gods have influence over specific parts of life, people will often go to a certain shrine to pray for good fortune in the area of expertise for that kami. These include childbirth, marriage, health and getting good grades at school.

The Inari Kami

The Inari Kami, the god worshipped throughout the entire mountain and subsequent shrines, is the patron of businesses, merchants and manufacturers. For as long as there have been temples for the Inari Kami, people have come here to pray for success in their corporate endeavours.

Torii Gates

Early on after the temple’s construction, worshippers would donate money to ensure their wishes were granted by getting good favour with the kami. To demonstrate their donations, a torii gate would be built with their name inscribed on it. Soon, hundreds of people wanted the same good fortune and came to this now infamous shrine to buy their own torii gates, creating the tunnel of torii gates you see today. Some say there are over 10,000 gates along the path but others claim that the number is well over 30,000.

The Power of Vermilion

Many people wonder why the gates and temple are painted that very particular shade of vermilion. This colour is called shuiro in Japanese and is meant to represent the colour of the sun. The goddess Amaterasu, goddess of the sun, is the most important god in Shintoism and her name literally means shining in heaven. Reflecting elements of her in the architecture of these shines brings them closer to heaven itself.

The Main Hall, ‘Hoden’

The main shrine sits at the base of the mountain. Originally built on Inariyama hill in 711, it was moved to the base of the hill later one in 816 to protect it from earthquakes. The honden or main hall was built in 1499. It’s golden ornaments glitter like sunshine against the bright red painted structure. The main temple is the location of the shrines most precious and sacred objects. Dragon fountains beside the temple are provided so visitor can wash their hands and cleanse themselves before stepping into the sacred space.

Offerings Hall, ‘Haiden’

Opposite the Hoden, is the Haiden or Offerings Hall. Here, visitors can come and make their prayers and offerings. You’ll see hundreds of sacks of rice, sake, wine, beer and other consumer products. The owners of the companies who produce these items will often make a financial donation but also leave their products on display as a means of demonstrating their donation. Free promotion too for people will have respect for corporations who support their chosen Kami.

Ema Plaques and Paper Cranes

In the main shrine, you’ll see ema plaques with wishes written all over them. Alongside the hanging emas are hundreds and thousands of paper cranes. Paper cranes in Japan have a very powerful significance. A little girl whose parents were killed in the bombing of Hiroshima channelled her pain into the creation of these tiny, paper works of art.

They were a symbol of her pain and giving them to the temple was an act of turning in her grief and stepping away from her suffering. These bright and colourful cranes are a symbol of people letting go of their grief and moving forward, to happier times.

Omikuji

In the shrine, you’ll also come across places to buy Omikuji. These are paper fortunes with predictions for your life written on them. But be warned, not all of them are good fortunes. If you receive a bad fortune, to counteract it, simply tie it onto the wire bands beside the shrine. This way, you leave the fortune behind.

The Beginning of the Hike

After wandering around the lower level temple, we headed for the stairs to begin our climb to the top! At the back of the main shrine, you come upon two rows, side by side, of Senbon Torii (thousands of torii gates). No matter which path you take, they both will lead you to the inner shine in the middle of the mountain.

There are said to over 10,000 torii gates lining the path, which creates a tunnel effect which you pass through. There are so many gates at some points that it completely obscures the forest around you. From the map, the trek didn’t look so hard, but as we watched that tiny red point move only slightly after almost half an hour of climbing, we knew this was no walk in the park.

Buying a Torii Gate

The smaller torii gates cost about 400,000 yen, and the larger ones can cost up to 1 million yen! They last about five years up here in the wilderness before they begin to deteriorate and need to be repainted or replaced. You’ll see lots of “wet paint” signs along the path as there is always a dozen or so in the process of being repaired.

When you first enter either side of the Torii gate trail, you’ll see it is crammed with tourists. The effect of the gates might seem a little distorted when full of people but as you continue to walk, more and more people drop off, having had their fill, and suddenly you’ll find yourself being the only one in these fields of bright orange wood.

Okusha Hohaisho

The first station you’ll come to is Okusha Hohaisho, the inner shrine of Fushimi Inari Taisha. This shrine was originally built for pilgrims who came and prayed to the mountain deities. The shrine was built in 1500 and has remained steadfastly the same throughout the years.

The Inner Shrine

The inner shrine was dedicated to the god of rice and sake by the Hata clan in the 8th century. Shintoists who come here to worship always follow a few rituals as they pray. The first thing they do is throw a coin into a box in front of the shrine and ring one of the suzu bells outside. These bells are thought to call the kami and let them know you’re here. They are also believed to repel evil and imbue positive energy.

Next, visitors will bow twice, quietly making their prayer to the kami, clap their hands twice and then bow deeply once more. Watching the deep concentration and devotion in their faces as made their prayers was a powerful and incredible thing to witness.

Inari Foxes

Throughout the shrine and across the pathways, you begin to spot hundreds of stone foxes. Foxes are scared to the Japanese. They were thought to be messengers for the Inari, and they are the representatives of the gods here on earth. Often you’ll see these foxes with different objects in their mouth. Each one of these items represents something significant for the gods. Keys represent the ability these foxes have to unlock a rice granary and bring forth sustenance. A scroll is meant to say the Fox is here to bring the recipient wisdom. A bamboo plant means a plentiful harvest and an orb symbolises spiritual power.

Fox Emas

In the inner shrine, you’ll see ema in the shape of foxes where visitors can write their wishes and draw a face onto the ema, making it all the more personal. Each one of the faces a unique representation of the wish maker.

Mini Torri Gate Emas

There are also miniature torii gate emas that you can buy to write your prayers on. You might not have 40,000 yen, but you can still have a torii gate with your name on it. Dan ended up buying a green copper bell up here from a priest who blessed it with good luck and told him to ring it anytime he wanted to ask the gods for a favour.

Omokaru Ishi

Beside the inner shrine, you’ll also fine the Omokaru Ishi. This is the site of the “light heavy stones”. Here, you place a coin in the box, make a wish and then pick up a stone from the pile. If it’s lighter than you thought it would be, your wish will be granted.

Kumatakasha

After visiting the Omokaru-Ishi, you can continue on the pathway up the hill or take a short detour off the path to visit some of the sub-shrines located just to the south of Kumatakasha. The Kumatakasha is where you can get a great view of the tunnel of torii gates from outside of it. From afar you can more greatly appreciate how densely packed those gates really are.

Headquarters of the Inari Shrines

The temple you’ll see right off this path is a very sweet little temple in the middle of a private bamboo forest. This site is the headquarters of the Inari shrines across Japan. Every Inari shrine from across Japan is represented here via a small sub-shrine. Some no bigger than an apple basket. You could spend hours here looking at all the different sculptures and miniature shrines. There are said to be over 10,000 here, but we didn’t come close to spotting that many.

The large shrine here is marked with a shimenawa which is a straw rope with white zigzag paper strips along the top to marks the boundary between the physical realm and the sacred realm. There was a very kind priest in the shop beside the temple who tried to help explain what the colourful kimonos along the perimeter of the shrine were. Each one was a wish and with a small donation to the shrine, we decided to make one was well. Seeing as our next step in our life was to hopefully get our own house, we wished for that. You were supposed to make the wish in elements of threes, so we went with, “health, happiness and home.”

Bamboo Forest

After walking through the shrine garden, we headed out the back to explore the bamboo forest. There were no signs, or directions and not a soul had ventured in with us. Leaving a super crowded area and heading into an empty one certainly felt like we were breaking in somewhere we weren’t supposed to be. We had visited the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove the day before and fought through hundreds of the people to view the forest. Here, we had our own private viewing garden. The bamboo might not have been as lush and tall but it was equally as beautiful.

Fushimishinpo Shrine

Hidden at the back of the forest is Fushimishinpo Shrine. Beside this shrine are hundreds of O-Tsuka, stone monuments. These may look like tombstones, but they are a monument donated by Shintoists. People who believe in Inari gods will give them names, place the names of the stone monuments and leave them in places like these shrines.

You come down a few steps to find a covered set of small shops and a few restaurants. Because these shops are only open during the busiest months, they were all closed when we arrived. These restaurants feature locals street food like fried tofu, said to be a favourite food of foxes. We peeked inside a few of the shops and were surprised to find that some of the doors were left open. We got a little spooked out and hurriedly, headed back to where we could hear more than just the sound of our own voices.

Shrine of the Mountain Hawk-Eagle

As you continue to hike up the path, you come across a large lake beside the Kumataka-sha shrine. This is the Shrine of the Mountain Hawk-Eagle. Along the lake, above the shrine, there are a few small tea shops (which again were closed while we visited) but there are also a few vending machines here where you could buy various overpriced bottles of water, soda or coffee. Legend has it that if you face the lake and clap your hands, you will hear an echo come back to you. Listen carefully for which direction the echo returns as it says that if you follow in that direction, it will lead you to someone who has lost their way.

Yotsu-tsuji

After the lake, you’ll see the pathways become almost empty. People have all but given up on the journey and yet here you’re barely halfway up. Before the first lookout point, I ran into a man feeding cats at the top of the hill. As he brought out the food, dozens of cats emerged from the forest. It was a haunting image to see when you’re walking through this forest all alone. At about the halfway mark along the path, you’ll come upon Yotsu-tsuji. This small shrine has an incredible view of Kyoto below and the trail of torii gates.

Kami-no-Yashiro shrine

At the summit of Inariyama Mountain, you’ll finally come to the Kami-no-Yashiro shrine, 233 meters above sea level. Up at the top shrine, you’ll find omikuji fortunes which are notorious for being extremely accurate – for some people, it is the entire reason they make the hike up to the summit.

The walk back down the hill is a much easier journey. You can choose to descend on the opposite side you came up so you have some different things to look at.

End of the Hike

Dusk was settling on the mountain, and our stomachs were grumbling. At night, many of the pathways are lit up, and the tourists have significantly dwindled. We wish we could have stayed longer and see the trail when it is all aglow but we were exhausted from our journey and decided to head home.

As we left, we ran into a few women in their finest kimonos leaving the temple. It was magic hour and seeing these alluring dresses as the sun began to set was one of that one-of-a-kind moments.

Tsujiura senbei

As you leave the shrine and head back to the station, you pass some sweet shops. The most famous treat being sold here is the tsujiura senbei, a fortune cookie from the 19th century.Snack carts sold a myriad of street food, infusing the entire lane with sweet and savory smells. Roasted dango was another popular dish found all over the streets here. It was being uniquely prepared as the dango rested around hot coals in the centre of an urn where they are slowly turned to give them an even char.

Fushimi Inari-taisha is truly one of the man-made wonders of the world. Finding time to come here and make the entire journey is highly recommended. The best time to come is early in the morning or as the sun sets at night since the crowds are the lowest and the light is stunning. Although we did find that even with heavy crowds, the further you get up the mountain the less and less people there are around you. So put in the effort and you’ll be rewarded with the most incredible sites.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari Shrine first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Access

The Iwatayama Monkey park is located right across from the Hozu River. It is marked with bright red torii gates sitting on the forest edge. The best way to access the park is from Hankyu Arashiyama Station. From here, it’s just a 5-minute walk up to the entrance. If arriving from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station, the walk is only 15 minutes, and you get to see a lot of the village along the way.

Admission and Hours

The park is open from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. from March to September and in the Fall and Winter from 9 a.m. – 4 p.m. The entrance fee for the park is 550 yen ($5 USD)

Ichitanimunakata Shrine

Before you approach the ticketing gate, stop at the Ichitanimunakata Shrine. This shrine is from the Taiho period (701-704) and may be one of the oldest shrines you see on your travels. There aren’t many signs or information about it, but it’s worth stopping to admire the ancient designs.

Tips for Interacting with the Monkeys

Next, you’ll turn and make your way to the ticketing booth. Here you pay the admission and hand over any bags the monkeys might be able to steal before heading up the mountain. Luckily our knapsacks were acceptable, and we could head right on up. After paying, you are handed cards with instructions on not interacting with the monkeys.

• Don’t stare the monkeys in the eye
• Don’t touch the monkeys
• Don’t feed the monkeys outside food
• Don’t take pictures on the way (we totally did this)

I have to say, these instructions freaked me out, but we’d already paid and seeing as I hadn’t read anything about people being mauled to death recently, we started to hike up the hill. The trek was harder than I had imagined it to be. But the weath

•  Don’t take pictures on the way (we totally did this)

I have to say, these instructions freaked me out. But we’d already paid, and seeing as I hadn’t read anything about people being mauled to death recently, we started to hike up the hill. The trek was harder than I had imagined it to be. But the weather was pleasant, and it was a nice way to get a little exercise and work off one of the many bowls of ramen we’d already consumed on this trip.

er was pleasant, and it was a nice way to get a little bit of exercise and work off one of the many bowls of ramen we’d consumed already on this trip.

The Hike

I think it took us about 35 minutes after stopping a few times for some water. We were glad to have good walking shoes and something to drink with us since there were no places to get beverages until there was, of course, a vending machine at the top of the hill. As we climbed higher and higher, the landscape changed, trees became more sparse, and soon we heard the first call of a monkey somewhere off in the distance, hidden amongst the trees.

Although it wasn’t too warm when we hiked, on sunny days in the summer, it must get so hot on your way up, so the air conditioning room would, I’m sure, be an oasis in the tropical forest. There were also several fans (if you can believe it) stuck in the middle of the woods where you could take a break and get some cold air.

The View at the Top

As soon as we reached the top, over 160 meters above sea level, we were rewarded with an incredible view that overlooked what felt like the entire world. But in reality, the city of Arashiyama, Kyoto, the Kyoto mountains and the Hozu River. There were several binoculars to look down on the city from up here, but we were here to see the monkeys!

Japanese Macaques

The monkeys running around the top of this mountain are Japanese Macaques or “Snow Monkeys.” They get their name because snow covers the ground up in the mountains during the winter. No other nonhuman primate lives in a colder climate.

They were much bigger than I had previously imagined and cruised around the tourists like it was nothing. I did my best to avoid eye contact with them, quickly looking away if one happened to glance up at me.

Caretakers and anthropologists

Caretakers and anthropologists were stationed up there to look after the monkeys and ensure no one disobeyed the rules. They also track their habits, breeding and life span to learn more about these creatures and how to help their population all over Japan. It was a little scary to see such wild animals so close. They were free, and a few would get into screaming matches with each other – displaying strength and aggression toward the females.

After a little while, you got more comfortable with the animals because they didn’t seem interested in biting your head off. I watched them play, sleep and pick bugs off each other for a snack. Some seemed to have their own groups, and some kept to themselves. Just like us!

Feeding the Monkeys

Inside the small building at the top of the mountain are refreshments for humans and treats for the monkeys. You’re only allowed to feed them inside this fenced shed to ensure they’re not eating unauthorized food. We bought a few bags of peanuts and bananas and fed the greedy little monkeys. Each one of them fought over a few nuts. Their little hands and faces were so human-like. Watching them meticulously peel the peanuts was fascinating. It was a gentle reminder of how close we really are to them. After feeding the monkeys and taking a water break inside the bottle-proof shed, we headed back outside. We explored the upper and lower levels of the monkey viewing area.

Once you started to look, monkeys seemed to be hiding everywhere. I overheard one of the employees saying that there were over 200 monkeys in this area alone!

We took a moment on the bench to enjoy both the monkeys around us and the views of the city and the forest. Although the view of the city is stunning, the view of the lush, undisturbed forest was even more interesting. It was so dense and bright green. With so many monkeys up here, I could only imagine how many monkeys made that enormous forest their home.

Bamboo Groves of Arashiyama

Seeing as thousands of people visit the Bamboo Groves of Arashiyama every day, it was shocking to see such a small turnout of travellers here at the top of everything. We didn’t mind at all, though. More monkeys for us. We walked around a little more. Pointing out our favourite monkeys and skittering away from the bigger, scarier ones. Finally, we gathered our strength to make the journey back down the hill. The way down wasn’t as hard as the way up but seeing as we only had walking shoes (not hiking boots), some of the slipperier parts of the hill proved a little difficult. Nonetheless, we made it back down in one piece!

Although the hike and the time it will take might seem steep (both literally and figuratively) – this trek is worth the time and effort. You’ll rarely have unique opportunities to see such creatures so close up in the wild and get the incredible views the top of this mountain offers. Souvenirs and ice cream cones can be found all over Japan; this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

The post What you Need to Know Before Visiting the Iwatayama Monkey Park in Arashiyama first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.