What is ‘Lisbon Under Stars’?

Lisbon Under Stars is called an “immersive and multidisciplinary spectacle” which aims to tell the story of Lisbon’s history through a mesmerizing visual performance. The entire show takes place inside the ruins of the Carmo Convent. But it doesn’t just happen inside the ruins, but the show is actually projected onto them! The multimedia projections are cast onto the remains of the convent walls and arches. Covering them like a painting, but one which moves bends and turns the space from a two-dimensional surface into a three dimensional trip back in time.

The 600 years of history steeped within the city of Lisbon is brought to life through these projections and told through the eyes of the convent itself. The convent is given a personality and embodied by a single female dancer. All the dancers were also filmed, and their performances have been woven into the multimedia projections. The dancer’s expressions and movements set against the powerful historical events help convey to the audience, wordlessly, the feelings and emotions the city was thrown into during those times. The visuals help us see through their eyes what it must have looked like during that time to be here in Lisbon. Parts of the show are narrated, and the spoken words are in both Portuguese and English, but the images are so compelling that words are almost unnecessary.

All the dancers featured in the show are from Clara Andermatt‘s Company and National Ballet. Despite the dancers not being there in real life, still interact with the space around you, even as the walls are transformed throughout the show. They react to this shifting world and truly bring another level of dynamism to the show.

Another critical aspect of making the viewer feel like they’re really embedded into the performance is the music. The entire show is set to a beautiful soundtrack performed by famous Portuguese names such as Rão Kyao, Teresa Salgueiro and accompanied by the Symphonic Chorus Lisboa Cantat, Symphonic Orchestra of GNR and Tocá Rufer. There are also a few iconic Fado songs performed by the Queen of Fado, Mariza.

Where to Find ‘Lisbon Under the Stars’

The Carmo Convent plays host to ‘Lisbon Under Stars‘. You can find the Carmo Convent in one of my favourite little town squares, aptly named ‘Carmo Square’. The Carmo Convent is located in the Chiado neighbourhood, just up the hill from Rossio station. Right outside the convent are one of those iconic drink kiosks, the perfect place to grab a ginja under the Jacaranda trees before or after the show.

About the Carmo Convent

Instead of a stage or a traditional venue, this show takes place inside the ruins of the Carmo Convent. The ruins were once the site of the Catholic Convent of ‘Our Lady of Mount Carmel’. The convent was built in 1389 in the traditional, yet restrained, Gothic style which was synonymous with religious orders of the time. The great rose window over the portal was one of the most awe-inspiring parts of the church before it’s destruction. The great earthquake, fire and flood of 1755 caused immense damage to the building, collapsing the entire roof, leaving the interior open to the sky above.

Due to a multitude of reasons (most of which you’ll discover throughout the show), the convent was left in disrepair. The rest of Lisbon was restored to its former glory or rebuilt in a newer style, so the stark ruins of Carmo were one of the only reminders, to this day, of that great earthquake. Eventually, the convent found a new life and was transformed into the Carmo Archaeological Museum. Despite its new modern role, the structure was left untouched, a living example of Gothic architecture. Some parts of the building were given some structural reinforcements, but for the most part, the building looks as it would have hundreds of years ago, albeit without a room. Inside you can see all different archaeological discoveries which tell the story of Portugal’s history.

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Times & Tickets

There are two shows per evening, at 9:30 pm and 10:45 pm. Tickets cost €15 for adults, children from 6 to 11 years, 65+ and students cost €12.50 and children under 5 are free! Tickets are available at the booth next to the Carmo Convent. We quickly were able to grab tickets right before the show and didn’t need to purchase them online or in advance. The space inside is so vast that there really isn’t a bad seat in the house, so no need to arrive super early either. There are stools available for senior or people with disabilities. Don’t be shy asking for one if needed but don’t take one if you don’t require it.

The best place to sit is right in the middle since you have the best view of the walls around you as well as the front portion of the church where some of the main scenes take place. During the show, you are free to move around the convent instead of having to stay in one place. In my experience at other immersive multimedia performances, I found that walking around actually translated into seeing the show in a new perspective. But here I found that sitting in once spot and turning your head was sufficient enough. I think that creating more spaces to explore would really enhance the experience, something they can focus on for next year!

My Experience at ‘Lisbon Under the Stars’

I have seen a few different examples of these types of projections throughout my travels, and I find that they’re always so inventive and astounding. They transform spaces and turn a dull wall into a work of art. Other multimedia shows I’ve seen were only projected onto a flat surface. At ‘Lisbon Under Stars’ the visuals interacted with the three-dimensional church making it an entirely more complex installation. It really brought the entire place to life. And being outdoors, literally under the stars, just made the show feel more raw and authentic.

While some parts of this show are a little cheesy (the cheap wigs were my biggest complaint), all-in-all the show is fun and wildly creative. If you don’t know anything about Lisbon’s history, it’s such a great introduction to the city’s past. And the cost, I think, is perfectly lined up with the experience you’ll get. It’s a fun little thing to do in the evening, and it would be awesome if you’re travelling with kids.

The show begins with the introduction of the women we will come to know represents the spirit of the Carmo Convent. She will be our guide throughout the show and is truly the best of the dancers. She manages to give a cold and unmoving building emotion and a fierce personality which we can relate to. We can see and feel the effects of history on her face, and by the end of the entire show, it feels like she is an old friend.

The first scene from history we see depicts the great Battle of Aljubarrota. The Battle of Aljubarrota is represented by two men dance-fighting to illustrate the great war between the Kingdom of Portugal and the Crown of Castile. This battle was so significant since it was the moment in which Portugal showed it’s dominance over the country and asserted itself as a force to be reckoned with across Europe. I will say, I wish they had skipped this part or at least re-did the choreography. I think authentic fighting from 1385 is a little strange to watch from a 21st-century perspective and it does seem to drag on a bit. It’s one of the cheesiest parts of the show which doesn’t make excellent use of the fantastic projections. So it kind of felt like instead of starting with a bang, they began with a dud.

After that initial introduction, I was a bit concerned about what the rest of the show would be like. The following scene depicts the construction of the Carmo Convent in 1389. Musicians playing medieval instrument pop up all around you, playing a rhythmic tune as the walls of the convent begin to manifest in front of your eyes. The darkened walls appear to be magically being restored, bricks stack one upon the other and suddenly the true glory of the entire convent, as it once would have appeared when it was first built, reveals itself to you. So many parts of this show really feel like getting into a time machine, and this is perhaps the most impressive one. From this point forward, I had no more doubt and was entirely enraptured.

The convent and the church played a hugely important role in the collection of books and spreading knowledge to the people. The first Portuguese writers and their manuscripts are shown across the walls and books fly around the space, opening their secrets up like doves wings as the scatter.

The walls begin to appear to bob and weave, and before you know it, you are stepping onto a huge ship, setting sail for the new world. This is the great maritime voyage of Vasco da Gama in 1497 which departed Lisbon in search of the sea route to India.

Vasco da Gama succeeded in his attempt to find it, and once there he brought back spices, textiles, animals and more home to Portugal. Trade is where a vast majority of Lisbon’s wealth came from, and the richness of that voyage comes to life here before you. We are transported through the projections, to the ports of India. We can hear and see all the brightly coloured fabrics and foods which would have stunned Portuguese importers at the time as they stepped off the boats into this strange and beautiful new land.

The years past and Portugal was thriving. It seemed like this city was unstoppable. And yet, on November 1st, 1755, an earthquake shook the town and brought destruction, unlike anything anyone has ever seen before. This scene throws us right into the action, the earthquake shakes the interior of the convent and beams, archways and bricks begin to fall. So lifelike you feel like you need to duck to avoid getting hit! The music booms and it feels like you’re right there! A fire breaks out and destroys what the earthquake left behind, the convent is in ruins with fires burning all around, but it’s not over yet…

The fires begin to burn away and just when you think the worst is behind you, a great rush of water swells over the convent walls. This was the tsunami which followed the earthquake and literally swallowed most of the city. The dancers are now submerged underwater and swim like fishes across the empty blue expanse. This part was so lifelike, you could almost feel the weight of the waves crashing down on you. It was like magic.

After the earthquake, there were many attempts to reconstructed the convent, but they all were in vain, for lack of funding, commitment or even just manpower. In 1835 Joaquim António de Aguiar, the prime minister of Portugal and minister of justice, was hell-bent on the extinction of religious orders. On May 39th, 1834 he created a law which extinguished “all convents, monasteries, colleges, hospices and any other houses of the regular religious orders”. This resulted in his famous nickname “O Mata-Frades” (the Friar-Killer). With the dissolution of the monks, the convent’s reconstruction was halted for good, and the church once more fell into ruins, left for the sands of time. The words of Joaquim António de Aguiar are spread across the walls of the convent like he was writing its death warrant.

Time goes one, and all-around Lisbon things were changing…all except for the convent itself. Carmo remained a ruined memory of the earthquake’s destruction. Everywhere you looked, there were new modern inventions and exquisite architecture being constructed, and yet the convent sat untouched. The iconic tiled walls which Lisbon is famous for begin to be plastered all across the convent walls, almost like they represented the modern era overshadowing the past.

In the 1820’s we saw the emergence of Fado music into the mainstream. Fado music played in the background as the walls were covered in the traditional floral, tasselled shawls which the singers usually wear during performances. Fado music can best be described as mournful music. The Portuguese word ‘saudade’ which means ‘longing’ perfectly encapsulates the feelings which Fado attempts to explain. The lyrics in Fado songs often revolve around the life of the poor. The songs are filled with resignation and melancholia, and yet they are so beautiful it’s hard to imagine they’re about something so dark.

In this portion of the show, we are entertained by the music of famed Fado singer, Mariza. She performs a stunning ballad, surrounded by stars projected against the walls of the convent. If you take this chance to look up, on a perfect night, you’ll also see the stars shining above you as well.

The sad Fado music seemed to be the ideal soundtrack for the soul of the convent at this time. She was alone, abandoned and lonely. She performs a last melancholic dance, her swan song, as a last attempt to have the world see her once more. Although things seem lost for her in 1864, something happens to pull her out of the darkness of the past. In 1864 convent was converted into the Archaeological Museum of Lisbon. In here, thousands of treasures from antiquity were collected and displayed for the viewing pleasure of the public. Now the convent is filled with people all the time, and the woman is no longer lonely anymore.

The modern era comes in with a bang! Contemporary art explodes all over the walls. The colours so bright and vibrant they come to life even without the animations. The most impressive works of art were from Amadeo de Souza Cardoso, one of the most famous Portuguese modern artists. Amadeo de Souza Cardoso was influenced both by cubism and by futurism. His colours are so vivid they seem almost aggressive, and yet there is always a nuanced balance to his paintings, which ensure they don’t feel chaotic or confused.

Images frame in the tiled archways around the church, and we see black and white pictures from the fall of the dictatorship of 25 April 1974. This event was called the ‘carnation revolution’. The coup was organized by the Armed Forces and military offers who opposed the regime. As they gathered, the civilians of the city joined them since they knew finally there was no army to resist them, and this was their moment to overthrow the autocratic regime.

What is surprising about this revolution is that not a single shot was fired. An unsuspecting hero in the revolution was a simple restaurant worker, Celeste Caeiro who came out to give red carnations to the soldiers to celebrate their freeing of the Portuguese people from the dictator. Other women followed her lead, placing carnation into the muzzles of guns and onto the soldier’s uniforms. Projected onto all the walls of the convent are falling carnations, stacking up as high as the walls themselves until everyone is buried under a bed of red flowers. The convent spirit is dressed in red in these scenes and performs a dance of freedom as the carnations fall around her. This was one of my favourite visuals of the entire performance.

To end the show, the projections featured urban artists, graffiti and street art were sprayed across the convent walls. The visuals featured images from artists such as Add Fuel, Daniel Eime, the Super Van by Vanessa Teodoro and Alexandre Farto aka Vhils. These aren’t like paintings you’ll always see hanging in fancy art galleries. Instead, these are examples of art which everyone in Lisbon can view every day on their walk to work or passing by on the streetcar. There is no cost of admission, only a sense of discovery which will help you find these beautiful works of art. There is something extraordinary about elevating this kind of artwork, giving it credence in the show featuring mostly “high” art, which I found refreshing and inspiring.

The show ends with one last beautiful Fado song. As the lights go down, all you’re left with is the most incredible view up to the stars, framed by those iconic Gothic columns and archways. The music continues to play as you exit, and we literally danced our way out the door!

If you happen to be in Lisbon while this show takes place next year, it is really worth checking out. I thought it was incredibly fun, funky and the perfect way to spend a warm, summer evening. If you don’t know anything about Lisbon’s past, it’s a fantastic history lesson! What you’ll learn will help contextualize so much of what you’ll see around Lisbon during the rest of your stay. Don’t miss it if you get the chance!

The post Review of Lisbon Under Stars, a Historical Spectacle first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. #1. Bertrand Livraria
2. #2. Alfama District
3. #4. Bica Elevator
4. #5. Rua da Condessa
5. #6. Miradouro de Santa Luzia
6. #7. Carmo Convent
7. #8. Jeronimos Monastery
8. #9. Tower of Belém
9. #10. Arco Da Rua Augusta

#1. Bertrand Livraria

Bertrand Livraria is the oldest bookstore in the world. It was opened in 1732 and survived both the fire, earthquake and tsunami of 1755 which levelled much of Lisbon. Today it is standing like a quiet landmark in the middle of the busy city. There is only a small sign out front announcing its historic status. The blue and white tiles, which are so popular across Lisbon, are some of the most iconic and their tiled wall, from the 1700s is an incredible place to take a snapshot. I love the way they appear to bloom like flowers.

#2. Alfama District

Alfama was one of the only neighbourhoods to entirely withstands the massive earthquake of 1755. This district is littered with historic houses as old as the city itself, cobblestone streets which are so worn down the stones are almost indistinguishable from each other as well as some of the most vibrant personalities the city has to offer. The squares of Alfama are alight with colourful banners and decorations.There always seems to be some sort of party or festival happening here. Mixed in with the ancient stones and tiles, the colours and breathtaking backdrops here are unreal.

#3. Rua da Rosa in Bairro Alto

Bairro Alto is a neighbourhood which absolutely silent during the day, and yet at night, it explodes with life! It’s where you’ll find all the trendiest bars and the hottest night life. But during the day time, it’s a fantastically peaceful place to explore. And admire the iconic Portuguese tiles and bright coloured apartment buildings. Walking down the streets you’ll hear only the sound of your footsteps. And the occasion resident sweeping off their front steps.

#4. Bica Elevator

The Bica Elevator is one of the most popular spots for a photo is Lisbon. And while it might seem overly touristy during the day, in the early morning, this part of the Bica neighbourhood is absolutely stunning and provides incredible photography opportunities. The old tram began running 1892. It’s aim was to help the residents of Lisbon get up the steep hills upon which the city is built on top of. Although these trams and the surrounding neighbourhood are always heavily graffitied, this somehow only adds to the vibrant nature of the area. Doesn’t detract from it.

#5. Rua da Condessa

At the end of the Rua da Condessa, in Bairro Alto, you’ll find a long staircase, flanked on either side by dazzling buildings. In between the two buildings is framed on the most magnificent vistas in Lisbon. In the distance, high atop the hill is one of Lisbon’s old ruins, like the old guard looking down over the new city.

#6. Miradouro de Santa Luzia

My favourite Miradouro is the Miradouro de Santa Luzia! Not only does it have one of the most spectacular views across Alfama and the Tagus river, but it is also has a lush garden. Filled with incredible tile work veranda and lots of rich, blooming trees. No matter which way you’re looking, there is something absolutely magical to see here. This place gets mobbed during the day time. But if you arrive early enough (especially at sunset) you’ll be in for a real treat!

#7. Carmo Convent

The Carmo Convent was once Our Lady of Mount Carmel, a Catholic convent located in the heart of Barrio Alto. Fires, earthquakes, political and religious upheaval all resulted in the convent falling to ruins, but thankfully no one had the funds to demolish it. In the later 20th century, it was converted into a museum and what was left of the structure was given supports to prevent its further degeneration. The interior of the convent, with it’s roofless view of the sky is breathtaking. If you’re lucky enough to be there at night or when there is an event, the interior is lit up to highlight the architectural details. And the open rooftop provides stunning views of the stars above.

#8. Jeronimos Monastery

The Jeronimos Monastery was built in the 15th century by King Manuel who used money the realm gained from explorations around the world to fund its construction. Portugal was known for its explorers and as such, made a lot of money from its imports. This meant the architect had a virtually unlimited budget for the construction and it’s for this reason that we find this opulent, renaissance building we see today. No matter where you turn or where you look, there are exquisitely framed shots. Hidden in the details throughout the building are oceanic elements, reflecting this strong seafaring country. A joy to discover as you explore.

#9. Tower of Belém

The Tower of Belém is located along the scenic Tagus river. It was once a defensive system for Lisbon to help the military see any incoming ships into their harbour. The tower is both a military structure but also an architectural gem of the city. Standing in low tide, on the shores of the river, looking up at this tower is a magnificent sight to see. There’s no need to wait in the super long line and pay six euros to get inside. The view from the exterior is much prettier anyways and exploring it from all angles along the banks of the river is much more fun than waiting in a line.

#10. Arco Da Rua Augusta

The entryway to Lisbon’s largest square can be found through the Arco Da Rua Augusta. The gateway opens up onto the Comercio Plaza which looks out over the Tagus River. This archway is located along one of the busiest streets in Lisbon and sometimes it can get annoyingly touristy. But if you arrive here early in the morning, you’ll be left only with the elegant scene of 18th century Lisbon.

Hopefully this helps you out in your quest for finding the best Lisbon has to offer! Let me know in the comment what your favourite part of the city was or what you’re most looking forward to seeing.

Happy Travel Adventurers!

The post The 10 Best Instagrammable Spots you Must-See on in Lisbon first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
   • Jerónimos Monastery
2. What Makes a Good Pastel de Natas?
3. Where to Find Lisbon’s Best 'Pasteis de nata'
   • Belém – Pastéis de Belém
   • Avenida da Liberdade – Fábrica da Nata
   • Baixa – Confeitaria Nacional
   • Cais do Sodré – Zarzuela
   • Chiado – Manteigaria
   • Barrio Alto – Pastelaria Padaria Sao Roque
   • Alfama – Pastelaria Alfama Doce
   • Happy Travels, Adventurers!

History

Before diving into the tart themselves, let’s take a minute to study the history of these desserts and why they are so iconic as a representation of Portugal’s culinary history. If you want to skip to the food, feel free to scroll down, but it’s nice to know a bit about why these treats are so important to eat when visiting Lisbon. The recipe for this famous sweet dates back over 300 years to a neighbourhood just west of the centre of Lisbon, in Belem. You can still visit the bakery to this day (Pastéis de Belém) and sample the very tart, which sparked thousands of copycats.

Jerónimos Monastery

The first pastel de nata (Pastel is singular, and Pasteis is the plural) was invented by the monks of Jerónimos Monastery. The monks would use egg whites to clean their clothes, and they ended up with thousands of egg yolks being thrown away. To use up the yolks and, in turn, sell some pastries to raise money for the monastery, the monks invented the recipe, which called for egg yolks as their main ingredient. Monks and nuns making and selling pastries is a practice dating back to the 16th century. In Barcelona, you can still try the convent cookies and/or travel to sample sweets from saints in Seville (not actually, but the alliteration was too good to pass up!) The word’ pastel de nata‘ is Portuguese for “cream pastry.”

Oddly enough, there is no cream used in making the pastries since the perfect custard filling is made with milk instead of cream. Cream would make the filling much too sweet and dense, whereas the milk produces that ideal jiggly, eggy custard which makes these desserts so tempting. After the Liberal Revolution of 1820 and the dissolution of the monasteries, the pastel de nata recipe was sold off to the current owners of the Pastéis de Belém. But the recipe was so popular that other bakeries started to attempt their own version to draw in the same crowds that Pastéis de Belém was gathering. Eventually, many succeeded, some with their own alterations and additions. When visiting Lisbon, there are many choices to find your perfect pastel de nata.

What Makes a Good Pastel de Natas?

Pasteis de nata MUST have a crispy and flaky crust, but the filling should be creamy and sweet, jiggly but NOT runny. Finally, they must be finished by being cooked at a super high temperature to give the tops that slightly caramelized surface with a touch of burnt sugar without being totally overdone.

If you are interested in seeing how they’re made, our stop at Manteigaria has a window into the bakery where you can watch the chefs at work. You might not want to watch this if you’re worried about calories! When you see the tart being made, you’re unaware of how many pounds of butter, eggs, and sugar go into these treats. But you’re on vacation, and there’s no such thing as calories, right? 

The effort it takes to make this dessert is astounding for such a little thing, but it really does pack a huge flavour punch! It’s easy to see after watching the process why so many bakeries try but fail to achieve the same quality product as these stellar bakers. To eat the pastries like a local, dust them in a cinnamon or powdered sugar coating. They are best enjoyed standing at the counters with an espresso (if you want to impress the staff, ask for a ‘bica‘ since that’s what they call ‘espresso’ in Lisbon).

While you can take them to go or sit down, standing at the counter is a great chance to chat with the staff and meet other locals. Always ask for a hot one out of the oven since those are the best! If they say they’ll have a few hot ones ready in a few minutes, WAIT! Trust me, it’s worth it. While still delicious, the cold ones aren’t the same.

Where to Find Lisbon’s Best ‘Pasteis de nata’

Belém – Pastéis de Belém

The best place to start your Pastel de Nata journey is where it originated, Pastéis de Belém. Belém is a laid-back neighbourhood west of the main part of the city along the Tagus River. This storefront might look small, but if you venture inside, you’ll see that the interior stretches out for miles. Even on a busy day, if you decide to take a seat, you’ll find you can almost always get a table outside the lunch and dinner hour.

You might have to wait a bit longer to be served, but the ambiance and traditional decor of the interior are well worth enjoying for an extended period. The tarts are unique compared to any of the other ones we tasted. They are much more creamy and less sweet. The egg flavour really stands out. The crust was also slightly thicker to hold up the more substantial custard.

What makes them stand out? 

Authenticity. Some of the more upscale bakeries in the city feel like they’re exploiting the tourist trend for these desserts. Pastéis de Belém serves many tourists, but their service and flavours aren’t trying to put on airs or impress. They are just there to serve the same recipe they’ve been selling for hundreds of years.

Cost: 1,05 €/each

Avenida da Liberdade – Fábrica da Nata

Fábrica da Nata has a few different shops in Lisbon, but the one on the Avenida da Liberdade is their most opulent and indulgent. The Avenida da Liberdade and Principe Real neighbourhood is an upscale stretch of Lisbon’s city centre, famous for its expensive shopping and luxurious architecture. As soon as you step in the door, the smell of sweet cream and flaky crust fills your nose. You can watch the bakers carrying trays of hundreds of tarts, sprung straight from the oven, jetting back and forth from the kitchen to the display cases.

A little conveyor belt runs along the ceiling, holding (fake) trays of pastries, carrying them all around the shop’s roof. While it’s just a gimmick, it adds a cute, almost Willy Wonka-like effect to the cafe. Fábrica da Nata is fabulously decorated, with blue tiles and lush seating. After all, you eat with your eyes, so no one will say no to such a beautiful environment. The tarts are almost always hot since there is nearly constantly a line up out the door (it moves very quickly, though, so don’t let that scare you off). While this might be a controversial opinion, these were my #1 tarts we had the entire trip! 

What makes them stand out? 

The crust! I found that the crusts were by far the crispiest, and there was a stronger hint of salt in them which seemed to balance the sweetness of the filling perfectly! If you love a salty-sweet treat, this is the place for you.

Cost: 1,00 €/each

Baixa – Confeitaria Nacional

Baixa is the historic heart of Lisbon and where you’ll find the oldest buildings in the city here. Confeitaria Nacional is the oldest pastry shop in Lisbon; it opened in 1829 and is now considered somewhat of a national monument. The dim, yellow glow from the old lamps reflecting off the mirrored ceiling is the first thing you’ll see upon entering. In glass cases around the room are displays of the various colourful cakes and desserts for which the bakery is so famous.

What makes them stand out? 

The flavours. The second owner of the shop, Baltazar Castanheiro Jr., spent much of their life travelling and bringing back recipes from other countries to incorporate into his pastries. He even dared to do so with the famed Portuguese sweet tart. Here you can find more than just plain custard; you can sample coffee, chocolate and pistachio Pasteis de nata! While this might not be the most authentic, it’s refreshing to see that he wanted to try something new. Can you imagine if all we had back home was plain doughnuts? Pretty hard to envision. The same kind of thing applies here, and it’s definitely worth trying to a twist on the original.

Cost: 1,20 €/each

Cais do Sodré – Zarzuela

Cais do Sodre, located south of the city centre, along the river, is one of the city’s most trendy and fashionable neighbourhoods. It has only recently undergone a hipster rejuvenation, but dozens of mom-and-pop cafes and restaurants are booming in this neighbourhood revival! This laid-back bakery doesn’t have many frills, but what it lacks in decor, it makes up for in dedication! Zarzuela serves up traditional Portuguese gluten-free, lactose-free and even vegan baked goods. Making gluten-free baked goods taste like the authentic, wheat-filled version takes real skill, and I made sure to try out plenty of their desserts and was amazed at how good they all were. Make sure to eat them warm as gluten-free items don’t stand the test of time like other pastries can, and fresh out of the oven, they are the most delicious!

What makes them stand out? 

Giving EVERYONE a chance to taste Portugal’s culinary history! While the taste might not be the same as the real thing, it’s a fantastic option for travellers with dietary restrictions who often never get the chance to sample this kind of baked goods. The gluten-free tart has a much thicker crust, but the filling is the same as any other bakery. I didn’t love the flavours of the vegan tart, but I know other vegans who are used to the taste of soy and egg substitutes who really enjoyed it and appreciated the chance to try it out. If you have anyone in your party with dietary needs, you CANNOT miss out on visiting Zarzuela. (P.s. be sure to try the doughnuts, they are insanely good!)

Cost: 2,20 €/each

Chiado – Manteigaria

The Chiado neighbourhood in Lisbon is one of the best places to visit come the setting of the sun. The district comes alive at night and bursts with people drinking on the cobblestones (since the bars themselves are much too small to fit all those patrons). But during the daytime, the lineups on the street are for one thing only; Pasteis de nata! Manteigaria, now one of Lisbon’s most visited pastel de nata bakeries, was once just a simple butter shop. You’ll see tiled signs all over the city for ‘Manteigarias‘ (butter shops) and ‘Leitarias‘ (milk shops) with images of beautiful milkmaid.

With the invention of the supermarket, these specialized stores died out, although their attractive signage was left as a memento of bygone times. Manteigaria opened in 2015 and quickly became the #1 stop to eat Pasteis de nata! Critiques have even named this location over the original Belem bakery, the best place to eat natas in Lisbon. While I still prefer Fabrica de Nata, this is a CLOSE second.

What makes them stand out? 

What makes them stand out? The filling. The complex taste of the custard here is what you notice most; it feels more complicated and nuanced than the original. The crust is much thinner and, therefore, very crispy and light, allowing that creamy, layered essence of eggs and milk to come through nice and bright! It’s so easy to eat more than just one…or two…or three…

Cost: 1,00 €/each

Barrio Alto – Pastelaria Padaria Sao Roque

Up the cobblestone steps from Chiado, you’ll find the bohemian neighbourhood of Bairro Alto. This district has some of the most quirky restaurants and traditional Fado bars playing music well into the early morning. Pastelaria Padaria Sao Roque is otherworldly and fits right in this over-the-top block. You’ll be in awe when you walk in the door by the ornate, embellished ceiling, bronze marble columns, and art deco azulejos adorning the walls and countertop.

What makes them stand out? 

Sweetness. If you have a sweet tooth, this is the place for you! This shop’s Pasteis de nata are extremely sweet, and their crust extremely flaky! You can see almost every layer of the pastry peeling back like the petals of a flower on the plate. The crust is crunchy and eaten with an espresso; it feels like the perfect balancing act to a splendid morning meal.

Cost: 1,00 €/each

Alfama – Pastelaria Alfama Doce

Alfama is Lisbon’s oldest neighbourhood; perhaps because of this, it’s also home to the city’s best residents. They have been living in this maze-like, steep hillside part of Lisbon for hundreds of years, and Alfama feels like a city. At Pastelaria Alfama Doce, you’ll find a glass cabinet filled with simple, traditional treats. In addition to fresh pastries, this place serves up the best freshly squeezed orange juice to enjoy along with your morning pastry.

What makes them stand out? 

The hospitality. The friendly smiles and attention you’ll get in this area are unrivalled and exceptional. They feel like family welcoming you into their kitchen for your morning breakfast. Be sure to spend some time here chatting with the owners and locals since everyone has a story to tell and a recommendation you will be remiss not to take when visiting! Plus, they cost a bit less than any other locations, so you can chow down on more than just one!

Cost: 0,85 €/each

We tried so many other tarts from bakeries, not on this list, some of which we found really lacking. They were either too cold, hard, sweet or even bland. If you’re out to find your secret spot, venture outside this list and try to find your personal fave. But if you’re only visiting Lisbon for a short time and need to hit up the best places ASAP, then this list will serve you well. No matter where you end up in the city, an amazing pastel de nata cafe is nearby! Let me know which one of these bakeries was your favourite if you’ve already visited Lisbon or which one you think you’d be leaning toward if you’re planning on visiting soon!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post An Insider Guide to Finding the Best Pasteis de Nata (Portuguese Egg Tarts) in Lisbon first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. DIY Tour
3. How to get to Cascais
4. By car
5. by Train
6. Getting Around in Cascais
7. Car
8. Walking & Bike Rental
9. Tourist Bus (a word of caution)
10. Public Bus
11. Uber
12. What time of year to go?
13. Self Guided Tour
14. Stop #3: Boca do Inferno
15. Stop#12: Rue Frederico Arouca

History

Cascais, pronounced “cash-ky”, is a word developed from the Portuguese “cascas” which means “shells” since the town was located so close to the waters where thousands of shells would wash ashore. The town’s proximity to the seas made it a hub for fishing and the money it brought in from those exports gained it the privilege of self-government in 1370 as decreed by King Fernando. Cascais rose to prominence with the title, and it became the first place Portuguese navigators would see when they returned from voyages around the world.

Lighthouses, military operations and forts were all built to support the town as a great lookout point for the country’s capital, Lisbon. Over the years, as the naval wars began to dwindle, its use as defensive maritime fortresses waned. But it’s elegant architecture, and charming city structure meant that people continued to flock to its shores and it was transformed into a luxury beach town for the aristocracy of Portugal. Years later, Cascais is most famous as being the writing haunt of famed author Ian Fleming, who wrote the classic James Bond novels in a hotel in Cascais. He had visited the town when he fought in World War II and came back here to write after the war was over. Many of the seaside settings throughout his novels all have some inspiration drawn from his experiences in Cascais.

DIY Tour

When we were planning our trip to Cascais and Cabo da Roca, we couldn’t understand why we couldn’t find much information online about a do-it-yourself tour. A lot of people visit Cascais and Cabo da Roca as a part of a day trip, sometimes also paired with a visit to Sintra. After visiting both Sintra and Cascais (along with Cabo da Roca) I genuinely do not know how they do it all in one short day. I suppose it’s more of a drive by viewing rather than a chance to really explore and understand each one of these incredible places. There is simply too much to see!

I think with this guide you can easily explore the wonders of Cascais and Cabo da Roca on at your own pace and save a ton of money too. It might require a little extra planning and effort on your part but if you’re up for it than I think it will pay you back in dividends.

How to get to Cascais

By car

If you have a vehicle getting to Cascais is a breeze, it’s just 35 minutes outside the centre of Lisbon. Parking can be found easily across Cascais and the surrounding countryside. On very busy days parking can be tough at the beach but there is usually places to park along the roadside where you can then walk over to the beach. Be sure to have coins for the tolls.

by Train

If you don’t have a car, not to fear. There is a train which leaves from Cais do Sodré station in Lisbon which services Cascais in just under an hour. The train journey costs just 2.20€. Be sure to have your metro zapping card with you since it makes jumping on and off the train easier than buying individual tickets.

Getting Around in Cascais

Car

If you have a rental car you can just drive from point to point from each of the destinations listed in this guide. Of all the methods of transports it’s the least complicated but does require the investment of the rental car. If you haven’t already rented one for the rest of your trip I don’t advise that you need to rent one just for this day-trip, it’s easily manageable without.

Walking & Bike Rental

The town of Cascais is relatively small, so walking around the sites in town is super easy on foot. If you just want to explore the beaches along the coast, there are bike rentals all over the place and bike paths too which makes getting to and from those areas a breeze! You can walk to most of the beaches but renting a bike is just that much more fun! While biking or hiking all the way up to the furthest point on our tour isn’t for the faint of heart it would be an absolutely beautiful hike/bike for those who are up for the challenge.

Tourist Bus (a word of caution)

To get out to all the destinations in this guide without a car, you’ll need to take the Scotturb buses. We opted for the tourist hop-on-hop-off bus, but honestly, we weren’t that impressed. When I got home I saw just how abysmal the reviews were and with good reason. When we told the driver we wanted to get off at Praia do Guincho, he seemed shocked that we actually wanted to “hop off” on a hop-on-hop-off bus! And even after asking he didn’t remember to stop. I ran up to the front and reminded him and only then did he, grumpily may I add, pull over and let us out. Our experiences certainly don’t look out of the norm based on the 1-star rating, and I’m surprised they still have this service up and running.

Advice on the Bus

If you have the money to spend and don’t mind waiting on late drivers and being firm about telling them where you want to get off and making sure they do indeed stop, then go ahead with the sightseeing bus but just be sure to read the reviews before you do! The upside to this bus is that you can “easily” get to all the destinations without having to figure out the public bus routes. Hopefully they’ll be improving this service, let me know if you decide to venture out on it and how your experience rates. The sightseeing Cascais buses run every 45 minutes from around 10 am to 5 pm but be sure to get the updated schedule from the main loading dock at the Cascais train terminal. A ticket costs €20 (€10 children under 12) + 0.50 card, and is valid for 24 hours.

Public Bus

The public transport system to and from different destinations in Cascais is a bit complicated. I understand how they get tourists suckered into only using the “sightseeing buses”. That being said, you can absolutely do this tour using the local buses. I’ve made sure to mark all the stops down on the map at the bottom of the post. I’ve also detailed each step out for you in this guide since most people are likely using public transport to get around. Fares on the bus cost €1.15 per journey and you’ll only need to ride them 4 times so the savings compared to the sightseeing bus are very significant. The three bus routes you’ll need are the 403, 414, and 415. (I’ve linked each of their schedules here as well as within the post.)

Uber

Another option is taking Ubers to and from each location. Depending on how many people you’re with, you could actually save some money here compared to the sightseeing bus. Uber’s cost around €12-17 from Cascais to Cabo da Roca. €9-13 from Cabo da Roca to Guincho Beach. And €5-8 from Guincho Beach to Boca de Inferno. The highest estimated cost is €38, which is actually cheaper than two people taking the tourist bus! The only risk you might consider is that there wouldn’t be any Ubers driving around that day. If so, you can easily find the nearest public transport option and hop on that.

What time of year to go?

The cooler weather during the winter and late fall makes Cascais a little less appealing to visit. Lying out on the hot sand and soaking in the surf and the sun is all part of the coastal experience. But if you do choose to visit during “off-season” you’ll be rewarded with less crowded attractions. The buses run on a slightly modified schedule during the winter so be aware of that as well if you choose to come down in the winter.

Spring and early summer are the best times to visit. Even on a hot day, the winds off the water, bring the temperature down a lot compared to in the city. And if you’re too hot, you can always just jump into the water to cool down! Try your best to come during the week since the weekends and holidays mean the beaches are packed.

Self Guided Tour

Stop #1: Cabo da Roca

After arriving at the Cascais train station, the first stop on your journey should be Cabo da Roca. Cabo da Roca is the furthest point on our tour from the Cascais terminal. It’s good to get it done first thing in the morning as it’s also the most popular sight on tour. Around midday, it can get extremely crowded so early mornings really pay off. I’d recommend leaving Lisbon just after 8 am to arrive in Cascais bright and early. Grab a few pastries and a cup of coffee for the train ride and enjoy the scenery as you go!

If you’re driving, you can simply head up the road and leave your car in the National Park’s parking lot. For the bus, catch #403 from the Cascais bus terminal. If you choose to take the sightseeing tourist bus, you can catch this outside of Cascais Train station as well. Either way, you go, you should reach the peaks of Cabo da Roca in around 20-30 minutes depending on traffic.

The ride up to Cabo da Roca was actually one of my favourite parts of the trip. It seemed as we climbed up the cliffside, the environment around us kept changing. At one point we were driving along coastal beaches and sand dunes, in another minute we were surrounded by lush rainforest-like trees, and finally, after coming through the forest, we reached the top of the mountains, and there seemed to be nothing but rocks, cliffs,green grass and a never ending expanse of ocean.

TIP: Even on warm days Cabo da Roca is exceptionally windy, and it’s higher altitude makes it pretty chilly! Be sure to bring a sweater or jacket with you.

Cabo da Roca

Arriving at Cabo da Roca, you’ll first notice the red-topped lighthouse and terracotta roofs of the building of the National Park office. But the real draw of Cabo da Roca doesn’t open itself up to you until you step off the bus or car, and walk down to the cliff’s edge. And then wow! What a sight! Cabo da Roca is famously the westernmost point of mainland Europe.

Looking out across cliffs you’ll see nothing but a vast expanse of sparkling blue waters belonging to the Atlantic Ocean. To the left, you’ll have the most spectacular view of the Serra de Sintra coastline as well. While Cabo da Roca is now a big tourist attraction, in the 17th century it’s purpose was mainly defensive. From this vantage point, guards could see any incoming ships which would be approaching Lisbon’s harbour. A considerable advantage in their maritime strategy, especially during the Peninsular Wars.

Lighthouse

The iconic lighthouse which sits on the top of the cliffs is not only a beautiful sight to see but an essential part of Portugal’s history as it is the oldest lighthouse in the country. It was built in 1772 and once was the guiding light for sailors on their way back home. Today you can find a quaint souvenir shop inside, with an overpriced “certificate” of your visit to the westernmost part of Europe, but it mostly just adds to the scenery of the entire location.

Be sure to take a walk down the entire cliffside, the view changes as you continue walking and the landscape towards the northeastern part of the park is absolutely stunning. It looked so much like the green fields of Scotland or Ireland and not like something in the middle of the Mediterranean.

Stop #2: Praia do Guincho

Our next stop is Praia do Guincho, one of the most famous and magnificent beaches on this coastline. To get here if you’re driving, it’s an absolute breeze, just a few minutes drives from Cabo da Roca. If you have a tourist bus ticket, you can get on the next bus returning to Cascais but BE SURE to not only tell your driver you want to get off at Praia do Guincho but also you sit near the driver and make sure to remind him as you approach (you shouldn’t have to do this but since he missed out stop altogether its better to be safe than sorry).

If you’re using public transport hop onto the Scotturb bus #403 and get off at Malveira da Serra, which is the first stop on the bus after getting on at Cabo da Roca. From Malveira da Serra stop change onto the bus #414 and jump off at the Charneca stop. The Charneca bus stop is located about a 25 minutes walk from the beach, and while the walk might not be “ideal”, it’s the easiest and quickest way (not to mention cheapest) when using public transport. Plus, the walk from Charneca is actually delightful since you get to see all the different houses and rural landscape of the suburbs of Cascais along the way. I’ve included a map of the walking route from the bus stop to the beach here so you can follow along.

Arrival at the Beach

Once you get to the beach, you can just relax! This beach is famous the world over for surfing. Since it is one of the windiest beaches in Portugal you’ll see hundreds of surfers, windsurfers and kite surfers here no matter the weather! It’s immensely entertaining to watch them out in the water! The beach is located on the edge of the Serra de Sintra National Park, which means that it’s natural beauty has been, and continues to be, preserved and protected. Due to the high winds, the beach is covered in sculptural sand dunes giving it that dynamic appearance. Grass grows through the sand and creates a strong contrast against the white sands and crystal blue waters.

Cresmina Beach

The beach is the perfect spot to grab some lunch with a view. While there are several Michelin star restaurants along the beach, these are enormously expensive (I was SHOCKED), and while they’re highly rated, most of us won’t have that kind of money to spend. But the real shock was the little beach we found at Cresmina Beach (located just on the other side of the dunes from Praia do Guincho). We thought this small shop would have nothing but chips and soda but were pleasantly surprised to find that they served hot pizza, salads, sandwiches and more! And best of all they were well priced and really delicious. Washed down with a freshly made sangria as you sit and enjoy the sound of waves crashing on the sand what more can you ask for?

I would recommend spending a few hours here. Have a leisurely lunch, walk along the beach, if the waves aren’t too intense you can even jump in the water for a swim! Cresmina Beach is a little calmer, and you’ll find more people swimming here while Praia do Guincho is THE place to be for surfing. We sat and watched the surfers for hours, it was pleasantly mesmerizing. We visited in May and despite the warm weather the beach wasn’t overcrowded and there still was a lovely peaceful atmosphere to the whole place.

Stop #3: Boca do Inferno

Next up on the itinerary is Boca de Inferno. To get here, if you have a car or are Ubering it’s located just 9 minutes down the road. The hop-on-hop-off tourist bus will also drop you off there (the stop after Guincho Beach) or if you want to take public transport, you can get on bus #415 which picks you up right from Guincho beach. Get off at the stop Bairro do Rosário and walk the 17 minutes towards the cliffs. Map of the walking route is located below.

“Boca do Inferno” in Portuguese means “Hell’s Mouth”. It sounds a lot scarier than it really is. It’s actually quite stunning. Over the years, this rocky outcrop’s proximity to the strong waves created a cave, which then collapsed, leaving a natural arch as a window into the water filled chasm. There is something truly magical about watching the waves as they splash and crash inside the dark cave. They swirl and spin, changing colours as they move and swell.

Aleister Crowley

One of the strangest parts of this place’s history is its involvement in the “death” of famed magician and astrologer Aleister Crowley. The occultist came here to fake his death in 1930 with the help of poet Fernando Pessoa. It was meant as a publicist stunt to promote the opening of an exhibition of Crowley’s work at a gallery in Berlin, where he “magically” reappeared when the doors were opened. Perhaps one of the first “social media” stunts of the 20th century.

Stop #4: the Santa Marta Lighthouse

From the Boca de Inferno, we will walk the rest of the way back into town. You can also drive back into Cascais, but the walk along the coast is a short and beautiful one with a few small things to see along the way. The Santa Marta Lighthouse is a very Portuguese looking lighthouse, covered with a striped pattern of white and blue tiles. The lighthouse was built on the site of a 17th-century fort in 1868. Although it has long been put out of use, it now maintains itself as a little museum and lovely piece of traditional decoration along the coast. The manor house it sits behind is a coast paradise and duo, along with scenic palm trees is a picture perfect photo.

Along the cobblestone pedestrian walkway back into town, you’ll pass dozen of the enormous estates and gorgeous houses. Some of these mansions were built back in the 17th century by the rich and famous of Lisbon’s high society. One of these famous mansions is the Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães. This manor house is now a small museum housing paintings, ancient artefacts & old books collected by the owner, now open to the public.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Stop #5: Citadel of Cascais

Continuing along the road you’ll see the large, rocky walls of the Citadel of Cascais start to emerge as you creep closer to the city. These fortifications were built in the 15th and 17th centuries to defend the Cascais coastline. There are three different buildings which make up the entire complex; the tower of Santo António de Cascais, the Fortress of Our Lady of Light and the former Royal Palace. You might be surprised to learn that the Royal Palace was restored and converted into a hotel in the 21st century. It’s incredible private chapel is now used to host some of the most amazing weddings which bring people from all over the world to Cascais.

Stop #6: Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Assunção

One of the most amazing churches in Cascais is the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption or “Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Assunção“. The church dates all the way back to the 16th century, and because Cascais was left virtually untouched by war or modernization, the church maintains its historic design. Inside you’ll find golden niches surrounded in stunning blue an white 18th-century traditional Portuguese tile work.

Stop #7: Ribeira Beach Cascais

Turning along the Avenue Dom Carlos, you’ll come upon Ribeira Beach in the town Cascais. Imagine having a beach this beautiful just steps away from the centre of town! You could even come down here on your lunch break! The beach is full of brightly coloured umbrellas, laughing children playing in the sand and there is ALWAYS a team of volleyball players battling it out on the small court.

Behind the beach is a classic Portuguese square with those iconic black and white cobblestones in a wave pattern. You’ll see this same pattern used all over Portugal but set right next to the ocean it feels even more appropriate. Also in the square is a beautiful bronze statue of a woman whose leg’s form the shape of a wave, her body wrapped in a ship’s rope. She looks out towards the ocean, perhaps eternally waiting for sailor to return home.

Stop #8: Palacete Seixas

Standing on the beach, you can see a castle-like structure in the distance, this is the Palacete Seixas. This old military fort was transformed in the 19th century into a grand mansion for a wealthy aristocrat to live in. When he died, he left the structure to the Portuguese Marines in his last will and testimony. Today it’s used as a meeting office for Marine officials but also creates a wonderful backdrop for beachgoers.

Stop #10: Cascais Town Hall

Opposite the beach is the great Town Hall, distinguishable by its ornate facade covered in azulejos (Portuguese tiles) depicting various Catholics Saints across the facade.

In the centre of the Town Hall square is the statue of King Peter the 1st. King Peter was the one who declared Cascais a township and gave them independence from Sintra in 1364. Before this, Cascais was seen as Sintra’s little brother. A community simply put in place to support the people of Sintra, but over the years it’s fishing industry swelled beyond anyone’s expectations, and it began bringing in more money for Portugal than Sintra ever could. It felt strongly that it deserved this designation, but it wasn’t until King Peter that Cascais was finally able to become its own independent city and therefore King Peter is greatly respected amongst the people of Cascais.

Stop#11: Largo Luís de Camões

Just down from the Town Hall is Largo Luís de Camões, a pedestrian-only street which is where you’ll find dozens of lively bars and restaurants. So many of the roads which connect to Largo Luís de Camões are also worth exploring, they are littered in pretty pastel houses replete with flowers pouring off their rooftops. Around each corner, see if you can spot the incredible tiled street signs which make even the most simple alley look like a royal lane.

Stop#12: Rue Frederico Arouca

A little way up from the Largo Luís de Camões, turn right and continue down Rue Frederico Arouca, another street dedicated to pedestrians only. This street is filled with eclectic shops, souvenir stores and gorgeous old architecture full of character. This is a great place to shop for some items for friends and family back home as its relaxed atmosphere is one of the best places to leisurely find some hidden gems.

Stop#13: Jardim Visconde da Luz

At the top of the main street is the Jardim Visconde da Luz, a beautiful park where locals come to play with their kids and get away from the heat of the sun under the shade of these green trees. In the centre of this adorable square is one of the most beautiful carousels I’ve ever seen! Only children can ride it since it’s so small, but each of the animals on the carousel is so charmingly sculpted and full of life! Unlike some carousels which are more fantastical, this one is filled with farm animals which look like they’ve been plucked straight from a nursery rhyme.

Stop#14: Moules and Gin

Across from the park is a little restaurant serving up one of Cascais’ specialities; seafood – specifically, mussels! Moules and Gin is a low key, off the tourist track, restaurant popular with locals due to its low prices and straightforward menu which only aims to highlight the incredible taste of fresh seafood right from the ocean!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Stop#15: Gelados Santini

For dessert, just follow the line up around the block surrounding Gelados Santini. Beach towns really do manage to have the best ice cream and gelato, the perfect combination for a day out in the sand and sun. The handmade gelato is fresh, and if there are any seasonal flavours, those are a must-have! The strawberry flavour feels like licking the berries right off the vine!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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With the last lick of gelato comes the end of our day in Cascais. To return back to Lisbon just hop back on the same train which brought you here or head back to the city in your car. Having dinner and dessert in Cascais means you’ll miss the end-of-day rush of both locals and tourists heading back into the city. Hopeful you’ll be swayed into coming over to Cascais on your own and skip the bus tours.

There is just so much to see here, and those organized tours are much too rushed for the rich history which Cascais offers up. With a little effort and organization, you can absolutely see all there is to see here on your own. If you have any questions about Cascais, let me know in the comments! I can’t wait to return and perhaps even spend the night to see this fantastic city when the sun sets, and there’s nothing but the sound of the ocean crashing on the shore to lull me to sleep

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Discover the Beauty of Portugal’s Coastline: A Complete Guide to Cascais and Cabo Da Roca first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. How to Get to Sintra & the Moorish Castle
   • When to Visit the Moorish Castle
2. Accessing the Moorish Castle
   • Uber
   • Walking to the Moorish Castle
3. Hours & Admission
   • Why Visit?
   • Accessibility
4. History of the Moorish Castle
   • King Alfonso VI
   • Castle of the Moors
5. Entrance to the Castle
7. Granaries
9. Archaeological Tombs
11. Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim
13. Stables
15. Cisterns
17. Castle Walls
19. Arms Square
21. Door of Betrayal
23. Wall Pathways
25. Tower Keep
27. Royal Tower
29. Happy Travel Adventurers

How to Get to Sintra & the Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is located in Sintra and easily accessible from Lisbon by trains leaving Rossio station. The trip requires no transfers and takes around 40 minutes. The round-trip journey costs just 4.50€, making it one of the most cost-efficient day trips. There are trains out to Sintra almost every 40 minutes. If you plan to visit the Moorish Castle as a part of a ‘Day Trip to Sintra,’ where you’ll see a few of the fantastic residences, I highly recommend getting the train before 8 am.

The train schedule changes slightly throughout the year, so I didn’t want to give you an exact time but leaving before 8 am means you’ll arrive before 9 am giving yourself plenty of time to get to your first destination with some time to spare before it opens. Sintra seems to explode with tourist buses as the morning wears on so early really pays off. But if you’re only planning on visiting the Moorish Castle, you don’t need to worry too much about crowds or leaving early. The Moorish Castle is the least crowded of all the sights since, even on busy days, the large open spaces allow everyone to spread out so it never seems too crowded.

When to Visit the Moorish Castle

Since the Moorish Castle is entirely located outside, visiting on a beautiful day will make your experience much more enjoyable. Winter is when you’ll find the least tourists, and if you can brave the weather, the almost abandoned appearance of the castle is something extraordinary to experience. Summertime can be a bit hot, so just be sure to lather on sunscreen if you’ll be out all day. Spring and Fall are the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is reliably the least busy time throughout the week to visit. Avoid holidays when possible, as these bring in Portuguese tourists.

Accessing the Moorish Castle

There are three options for getting to the Moorish Castle. The first is to take public buses located right outside Sintra Station. The bus to take is #434, which services the Moorish Castle. This bus tends to have pretty big lines up at the train station stop since everyone getting on needs to purchase their day ticket, which slows things down. But once you have your pass, it’s super easy to jump on and off throughout the day. Tickets for this bus cost 5€ for a 24-hour pass.

Uber

The second option is jumping in an Uber. Ubers are a great way to get around Sintra but be warned that because some of the streets are one way up a long and winding hill, some drivers might take a while to get to you or might cancel frequently. The Uber ride from the train station to the Moorish Castle is around 6€ depending on the time of day and the weather. If you’re travelling with 3 or 4 people, Uber can save you some money, and if there is a big lineup for the bus, it can save you some time. If you haven’t used Uber before, download the app and use my referral code, rds9f, to get $5 off your first ride!

Walking to the Moorish Castle

The third option is to walk. Walking from the train station to the Moorish Castle takes about 45 minutes, but if you’re keen on hiking, this is a great opportunity. There are maps of the hiking trails available at the tourist information centre. The best walk to take, which is the most direct, is the path via the Rampa do Castelo, which takes you through a shortcut directly up to the castle. I’ve added a map below to both the pathway to the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace since the free maps can sometimes be a little tough to follow, but the signage on the actual trails is quite good.

Hours & Admission

Since the Moorish Castle isn’t as insanely busy as Pena Palace, if you’re only visiting this one castle, you don’t need to worry too much about buying tickets in advance. Although buying them online in advance will save you 5% and also means it’s one less thing to do once you arrive. Tickets are valid for the entire year, so even if you buy them and plan on visiting one day, which gets rained out, you can easily change things around without being beholden to ticket dates and times.

You can also purchase them on your phone and show the e-ticket, no need to print out the physical document. If you can’t buy online in advance, there is a ticket booth at the entrance where you can buy them. Tickets for adults (18 – 64) cost 8€, youths (6 – 17) cost 6,5€ and seniors (over 65) are 6,5€. The castle is open from 9:30 am to 8 pm, with the last entry to the castle at 7 pm. The castle is open all year except December 25th and January 1st.

Why Visit?

Compared to sites like Pena Palace, the Sintra National Palace or the Quinta da Regaleira, the Moorish Castle might seem a little plain and uninteresting. There is no arguing that it is indeed the castle with the least amount of glitz, but what I found so impactful was the sheer depth of history you could feel within these walls. Pairing this place with the other castles was a stark contrast I appreciated, like a breath of fresh air. Some people skip this castle thinking it will be a little boring, but hiking along the ramparts was one of the most exciting parts of the day trip! I won’t miss it if you have the time!

Accessibility

Many people may not know when visiting this castle that the restoration project which took place to restore the castle was aimed at making it more accessible to people with mobility issues. In the depths of the forest, beside rocky cliff-sides and ancient ruins, you might be surprised to hear that there are special pathways all around the castle that visitors in wheelchairs can use. They have even made one of the castle’s wall lookouts accessible via a new wheelchair ramp to ensure all visitors get a glimpse across the countryside. I was so impressed when I researched this online and saw all the different accessibility ramps they can bring for those guests, even into a place built in the 9th century.

History of the Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is one of the oldest parts of Sintra. It was built in the 8th and 9th centuries by the Moors. “Moors” was a general term for the Muslim Moors from North Africa who came to Portugal. They brought with them their rich architectural histories, which generations would continue to be inspired by. This location was of mighty military power since it was located at a high vantage point above the town of Sintra, looking out over the River Tagus. From here, soldiers could keep guard against any incoming enemy ships. Sintra was a powerful township as the fields were full of fertile soil, and the farms around the hills were reliable producers of everything from grains to legumes.

King Alfonso VI

In 1093 a Christian crusade led by King Alfonso VI of Castile attempted to overtake the castle, but they were driven out by the overwhelming Moorish forces. But in 1147, the Christian forces of the Reconquista were finally powerful enough to take the castle from the Moors for the Christians. It was used for military defences during the 14th century, but eventually, it feels to ruins when it was no longer needed for security and more of the country’s power began to shift towards Lisbon as it was the city center.

Over the next few hundred years, it became almost completely abandoned. In the 15th century, when the Jews were expelled from Lisbon, they came here to live. But in 1636, a lightning storm caused a large fire which disseminated the castle, and a massive earthquake in 1755 levelled the remains of the battlements. Many thought that the castle would be lost to the ages as it sunk farther and farther into ruins.

Castle of the Moors

But when King Ferdinand II bought Pena Palace, he also took some interest in the Castle of the Moors. Ferdinand had a passion for history and took it upon himself to start preserving the remains of the castle and rebuilding the portions beyond repair. He loved looking at the stunning Moorish castle walls from his terrace, and when he visited the Moorish Castle, he could walk around the tower walls to the best view over his storybook castle found anywhere in Sintra. They both were like children to him, and the care (and financial aid) he sunk into these hilltop castles doesn’t go unnoticed even hundreds of years later.

Entrance to the Castle

While the entrance to the Moorish Castle, where you’ll find the ticket booth, is right off the side of the road, the journey towards the interior door is about a 15-minute walk from there, around the second ring of castle walls. You’ll stroll along a rolling pathway leading you around the castle’s exterior. Look up as you examine the old stone walls above the steep hillside around you. These secondary castle walls were built to protect the surrounding population and their animals and crops from invaders.

Granaries

Along the route toward the entrance, you can spot the excavated areas where a few large granaries were used to store cereals and legumes. These ingenious storage containers were brought to Portugal by the enterprising Moors.

Archaeological Tombs

Just outside the entrance, you’ll find an area where archaeological excavations were undertaken by King Ferdinand II. There, he found hundreds of bones buried under the soil. Today, there is a glass cover which reveals replicas of the skeletons which were discovered buried here. The King made a point to collect all the bones and inter them in a small tomb. The tomb is engraved with the symbol of a crescent and a cross and bears the following epitaph, “What man has joined only God will set apart.” In King Ferdinand’s time, this is because there was no way of telling if the bones were from the Christians or the Muslim inhabitants, and yet Ferdinand wanted to give them all a proper dedication.

Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim

In front of the main gates of the castle, you’ll find a small romantic-style chapel. This chapel, called Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim, was first built in the 12th century by King Afonso Henriques after the Christian invasion but was rebuilt by Ferdinand in a style he much preferred. The church now contains relics found on the site, some from the Neolithic area (5000 BC) and other important artifacts from the 10th-12th century Islamic cultures who lived here.

Stables

Upon entering through the Curtain Wall, to the left of the archway is the site of the old stables. A newly built stylized wooden structure is where you can find the Visitor Centre and get a map of the castle’s interior. It’s also where you can find the shop, washrooms and cafe. The cafe’s small terrace with a few patio tables is an excellent place to recharge if you hike all the way up to the castle or even if you need a short rest before walking up the castle walls.

Cisterns

Outside the stables, walk around and see if you can spot the two massive stone cisterns. These are covered in an iron grate in the shape of an Arabic star. These large vaulted cisterns were built in the 13th century, and the tanks held over 600 cubic meters of water. Access to clean water was the lifeblood of a secluded castle, and these water wells meant that the citizens could hold up inside the safety of the walls without ever having to go outside during war. The cisterns were so important that legend says that beneath them were the burial chambers of the Moorish kings. Take a peek down below to see if you spot any ghosts of King’s past.

Castle Walls

Take a closer look at the walls of the castle. See if you can make out the four distinct different layers of which they’re made up. Each one tells the story of the people who ruled over this structure. The first layer is made of granite blocks which rest on the bedrock over what was once an Islamic house and silos in the 12th century. The second phase was a reconstruction using ancient techniques made in the 12-13th century. The third phase was built in the 19th century when King Ferdinand took possession of the castle and helped with its restoration. The last stage was built in the 20th century when the castle became a tourist destination run by the government, and steps were taken to ensure its safety and strength for future generations.

Arms Square

The large open courtyard in the center of the castle is called the ‘Pracad de Armas‘ or Arms Square. This was where the military garrison would gather in the 13th century. When it was remodelled by King Ferdinand later in the 19th century, into a garden oasis. It was a space for contemplation and is still a beautiful area for people to sit and enjoy the view if they cannot manage the hike up the castle walls.

Door of Betrayal

In the centre of the Arms Square, you can spot a small wooden door, slightly hidden down half a level. Despite its ubiquitous appearance, this door has one of the darkest histories of the castle. It’s called the “Door of Betrayal” as the passageway provided discrete access to the castle’s exterior as a means of escape, or in another case, as a means to let the enemy inside the castle, hence the name; Door of Betrayal.

Wall Pathways

We visited on an especially windy day, and despite this, we walked the entire way to the top of the walls for a spectacular panorama across the countryside of Sintra. Walking up these walls, you feel like an explorer discovering ancient ruins. On a clear day, you can see across the Atlantic Ocean. We tried to spot all the locations we’d been to earlier in the day and were amazed at how far we’d walked!

Tower Keep

The first tower to visit along the walls of the castle is the Tower Keep. This was the stronghold where the local authorities would meet. It’s located at the highest point along the rampart and was where the guards had the best vantage points over the lands which needed protection.

From the Tower Keep, walk along the castle’s walls, making your way to the Royal Tower. This is where you’ll find the King’s favourite views over towards Pena Palace. You can still see flags flying high in the sky along the walls. One of the most significant flags is the green one, which has the word ‘Sintra’ written in Arabic as a dedication to the Moorish history of the palace.

Royal Tower

The Royal tower is the crowning glory of the castle. When you finally get to the top, the scenery is stupendous, perhaps made even more rewarding because of all the effort it takes to get there. You can stand holding the top flag pool and imagine yourself as one of the knights of the realm, looking out over the kingdom.

The walk down from the tower is much more leisurely, and although the landscape is the same going down as it was coming up, it seems different, almost like getting another angle on the entire vista. It’s incredible to observe the lush bushes, trees and flowers that sprout from within the rocks themselves. Things seem impossible to grow inside these rocks, yet these trees seem to be hundreds of years old. As old as the castle itself.

This brings us to the end of the tour; you can either make your way down to the bus stop, catch an uber, or hike the rest of the way back into town. I hope you enjoyed your time at the Moorish Castle; it was such a pleasant surprise when we visited, and well worth the effort climbing to the top! Let me know if the comment if you’ve ever travelled to Sintra and what your favourite castle you visited way!

Happy Travel Adventurers

The post The Best Self-Guided Tour of the Amazing Moorish Castle, Sintra’s Oldest World Heritage Site first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

If you’re anywhere close to Sintra in your travels through Portugal, don’t miss out on visiting this fantastic place. This guide can be used both in conjunction with my ‘Day Trip to Sintra Guide,’ or if you’re just interested in visiting this one castle, it’s a great in-depth walkthrough of all the different historical details and artistic aspects of the Palace and Gardens.

Table Of Contents

1. How to Get to Sintra
2. When to Visit Pena Palace
3. Access, Hours & Admission
4. History of Pena Palace
5. Arches Yard
6. Wall Walk
7. Interior of the Palace
8. Entry Doorway
9. Queen’s Terrace
10. Cafe and Restaurant
11. Gardens of Pena Park

How to Get to Sintra

Sintra is easily accessible from Lisbon by trains leaving from Rossio station. The trip requires no transfers and takes around 40 minutes. The round-trip journey costs just 4.50€, making it one of the most cost-efficient day trips. While trains are out to Sintra almost every 40 minutes, I highly recommend getting the train before 8 am. The train schedule changes slightly throughout the year, so I didn’t want to give you an exact time but leaving before 8 am means you’ll arrive before 9 am giving yourself plenty of time to get to your first destination with some time to spare before it opens.

Sintra seems to explode with tourist buses as the morning wears on, so early really pays off. Any chance of being tired is worth it for the experience of arriving at Pena Palace without having to wait in huge lines and fight the enormous crowds to see what’s around you. Also, have a metro card loaded with funds to tap on and off the train or buy your train tickets in advance. Even super early in the morning, there was a lineup at the ticket counter. We were happy to have our pre-loaded metro cards, which meant we could just tap right on them, ensuring we made it onto the train in time. It was surprising how critical those few minutes were in the outcome of our day.

When to Visit Pena Palace

Pena Palace is always busy. Yes, the winter will most likely be the least busy, but it’s also chilly and can be a bit grey. Since most of the things to see are outside, it’s not always the most comfortable time to explore. The height of the summer holidays is equally as miserable but instead because of the intense heat and crowds. Springtime is the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is reliably the best chance you’ll have to see a small reduction in groups. Avoid holidays when possible as these bring in the Portuguese tourists. As mentioned before the earlier in the morning you arrive, the better chance you’ll have at beating the bus tours, which are the most significant crowd control issue.

Access, Hours & Admission

There are two (well three) options for getting to the palace. The first is to take the public buses which are located right outside Sintra Station. The bus to take is #434, which services Pena Palace. This bus tends to have pretty big lines up at the train station stop since everyone getting on needs to purchase their day ticket, and that slows things down and bit. But once you have your pass, it’s super easy to jump on and off throughout the day. Tickets for this bus cost 5€ for a 24-hour pass.

Taking an Uber

The second option is jumping in an Uber. Ubers are a great way to get around Sintra but be warned that because some of the streets are one way, up a long and winding hill, some drivers might take a while to get to you or might cancel frequently. The Uber ride from the train station to Pena Palace is around 6€ depending on the time of day and the weather. If you’re travelling with 3 or 4 people, Uber can really save you some money, and if there is a big line up for the bus, it can save you some time as well. If you haven’t used Uber before, download the app and use my referral code rds9f to get $5 off your first ride!

Walking to the Castle

The third option is to walk. Walking from the train station to Pena Palace is a pretty long journey, but if you’re keen to do some hiking, this is a great opportunity. Just leave yourself some extra time to hike up to the castle and still arrive at the gates for 9:30 am.

While the entry gates are located just off the roadside, the palace itself is a fair bit uphill from the main entrance. There is a mini-bus which runs up to the top, but it costs 3€ and more than the money, the line you need to wait in to get onto the bus is a huge inconvenience. Although a little long, the walk up is actually quite enjoyable. If you have mobility issues, just take it slow and spend the extra time resting in between spurts admiring all the beautiful flora and fauna in the garden.

Admission Options

There are two options for Pena Palace admission. One is to tour the palace’s exterior and royal gardens. The other option will get you entry into the interior of the castle. If you are confident you’ll arrive early and are keen on seeing the rooms inside, go ahead and buy that ticket. But the lineup to get inside can get insanely long. They need to control the number of people who enter the buildings (something which isn’t monitored outside), so this often results in lengthy queues.

We were there as close to the opening as possible, and even we had to wait about 20 minutes to get inside. When we left, the line looked to be almost 2 hours long. While I thoroughly enjoyed touring the interior, there is no way it’s worth 2+ hours of waiting in line. If you think you can miss the interior, the gardens, and the exterior ticket is an excellent option since I think the best parts of the castle are the exterior anyway. It will save you a few euros and potentially a lot of time. If you did purchase a ticket for the interior tour but the lineup to get inside is gigantic, I would advise coming back right before closing when the crowds have cleared out.

Hours

Pena Palace is open all year round except December 25th and January 1st. During the Summer (March to October), the palace is open from 9:45 am until 7:00 pm (last entry 6:15), and the park is open from 9:30 am until 8:00 pm (last entry 7:00 pm). In the Winter (October to March), the palace & park are open from 10:00 am until 6:00 pm.

When to Visit Sintra

Sintra is always busy. Yes, the winter will most likely be the least busy, but it’s also chilly and can be a bit grey. Since most of the things to see are outside, it’s not always the most comfortable time to explore. The height of the summer holidays is equally as miserable but instead because of the intense heat and crowds. Springtime is the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is the best chance you’ll see a small group reduction.

Avoid holidays when possible, as these bring in Portuguese tourists. As mentioned before, the earlier in the morning you arrive, the better chance you’ll have at beating the bus tours, which are the most significant crowd control issue. Always the most comfortable time to explore.

How Much Time to Spend?

Pena Palace, although the most popular spot to visit in Sintra, doesn’t take too much time to tour. We spent about 2 hours inside the Palace proper and another hour touring the gardens. If you wanted to tour the entirety of the acres and acres the gardens are spread out across you could be here all day, but to visit the entirety of the Palace and a general tour of the gardens would take around 3 hours. This doesn’t include waiting in line, so if you come on a busy day when the line up to get inside the interior is hours long this will obviously add to your time spent there.

If you find the line for the interior is too long and you want to see a lot of the gardens, consider doing the gardens first and then returning to the interior later on in the day. Sometimes if a huge tour bus drops off a few busloads just waiting for those groups to disappear is a great plan to avoid having to wait in line with them.

Is it Really Worth Visiting?

Pena Palace, although the most popular spot to visit in Sintra, doesn’t take too much time to tour. We spent about 2 hours inside the Palace proper and another hour touring the gardens. If you wanted to tour the entire garden, which is spread out across acres and acres, you could be here all day, but to visit the whole of the palace and a comprehensive tour of the gardens would take around 3 hours. This doesn’t include waiting in line, so if you come on a busy day when the line up to get inside the interior is hours long, this will obviously add to your time spent here. If you find the line for the interior is too long and you want to see a lot of the gardens, consider doing the gardens first and then returning to the interior later on.

History of Pena Palace

The Hieronymite monastery was built in 1503 in honour of the Virgin Mary, who is said to have appeared at the top of the mountain in a vision. After falling to ruins over the years due to religious upheavals, King Ferdinand II, who had been in love with this spot since he was a child, decided to buy the buildings and the surrounding lands. Construction of the new royal estate began in 1838.

Ferdinand was obsessed with romanticism in art and architecture. He wanted his contemporary summer house to feel like something out of a storybook. Oddly enough, the palace’s construction was taken on by a mining engineer, Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege. Perhaps this was because the Prince and his wife wanted their full say in the castle’s design. Yet they needed Eschwege’s planning prowess to help them achieve the look of a castle sprung forth from the rocks. There really is no one style to be found here. Instead, it’s a patchwork quilt of influences and themes. Ferdinand wanted to include Medieval and Islamic elements and Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Manueline. The Manueline architecture was the most iconic style in Portugal at the time. It was the millennial pink of its time.

Architecture

There really is no one style to be found here. Instead, it’s a patchwork quilt of influences and themes. Ferdinand wanted to include Medieval and Islamic elements and Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Manueline. The Manueline architecture was the most iconic style in Portugal at the time. It was the millennial pink of its time.

After the death of Ferdinand, the castle was inherited by his second wife, Elise Hensler, who became Countess of Edla. The Countess, under pressure from the crown, sold the estate back to the royal family with the one condition that she could continue to live there until her death. King Carlos, next in line to the throne, was the last member of the royal family to live in the palace. After his assassination, his son, Manuel II, became the last King of Portugal and his wife, Queen Amélia, was the last person who stayed in the palace until the republican regime brought an end to the Portuguese crown.

Entrance to the Palace

While the entry gates are just off the roadside, the palace is a fair bit uphill from the main entrance. There is a mini-bus which runs up to the top, but it costs 3€ and more than the money, the line you need to wait in to get onto the bus is a huge inconvenience. Although a little long, the walk-up is actually quite enjoyable. If you have mobility issues, just take it slow and spend the extra time resting between spurts admiring all the beautiful flora and fauna in the garden.

At the top of the hill, the golden yellow walls, blue tile and red-painted exterior of the palace begin to emerge from the trees. Seeing this palace in real life is nothing like seeing the pictures. I really don’t think they can do it justice. Walking up those cobblestone steps makes you feel like you’re walking into a fantasy.

Door of Alhambra

The entryway into the castle is called the Door of Alhambra. It was inspired by the Alhambra Door of Justice in Granada, Spain. The doorway is covered in brightly painted tiles and decorated with various elegant leaves. Ferdinand wanted this gateway to be where his visitors left the real world behind and stepped into his dream world.

The Coach Yard

Open passing through the archway, we step into the ‘Coach Yard.’ This was as far as horses and carriages could come, and guests would make their way to the palace on foot. Standing here, we can look up at the ‘Monumental Gateway.’ The gateway’s design is a blend of architectural elements found all over Lisbon and which the Prince wanted to see incorporated into his palace.

The facade is covered in diamond-shaped stones, referencing the Casa dos Bicos in Alfama. On either side of the top of the gateway, we have arched domes, completed with rope-like decoration; the same was on the famed Tower of Belem. The exterior is finished in a series of round balls reminiscent of the Cunhal das Bolas in Barrio Alto. In the centre of the arch, on the very top, is a pair of crossed swords atop a knight’s helmet, with a plume of lush feathers springing out of the top.

Upper Courtyard

Step through the archway and make your way around the swirling passageway to the upper courtyard. It’s here you’ll finally have the chance to study the tiles which make up the exterior hue of this building. Tiles, or Azulejos as they are called in Portuguese, have a strong history in Portugal, dating back to the 13th century. The Moors brought them here, who invaded much of Spain and Portugal in the 1200s. The word azulejo in Arabic means “small polished stone.” In Islam, they believed in aniconism, the avoidance of images of sentient beings in art. As such, geometric shapes became the most popular form of decor. As such, most of the tiles brought with them from Islam continue this tradition. The geometric and natural forms are striking, and their colours haven’t faded significantly over the years.

The Triton Portico

The Triton Portico is one of the most impressive elements of Pena Palace. Triton is meant to serve as an allegorical of the world’s creation. The facade is divided into two factions, the aquatic world below and the terrestrial world above. They are separated by Triton, a monster half man and half fish but a part of both worlds. Bits of corals surround Triton’s feet; above him, you can see the carved grape vines and leaves blossoming wildly. The Portuguese were a seafaring nation, and aquatic symbolism was always an important aspect of their artistic culture.

Azulejos

Tiles, or Azulejos as they are called in Portuguese, date back to the 13th century. They were brought here by the Moors who invaded much of Spain and Portugal in the 1200s. The word azulejo in Arabic means “small polished stone”.

In Islam, they believed in aniconism, which is the avoidance of images of sentient beings in art. As such, geometric shapes became the most popular form of decor and as such, most of the tiles brought with them from Islam continue this tradition.

Arches Yard

Walk underneath Triton’s arch out to the Arches Yard. The small passageway is where you’ll find the restrooms which are also covered in traditional tile work. The Arches Yard is framed by a wall of graceful, golden arches done up in Moorish style. The arches create a window onto the village of Sintra and across the countryside below.

There is nothing to compare this view to, it seems to go on and on forever on a clear day. From atop this peak, you can spy on all the wealthy estates below, one of which is actually owned by Madonna, the Queen of pop herself! Sintra truly is still to this day where the rich and famous come to escape the city and to live in some of the most lavish properties found anywhere in the world.

Convent of the Order of Christ

Take the chance to turn your eyes away from the incredible view, and look across towards one of the incredibly ornate windows on the main facade. This piece was directly inspired by the chapter house window in the Convent of the Order of Christ in Tomar. The window is surrounded in alchemical symbols, some of which seem to have a mystical aura. Much of Sintra’s more obscure lore lies in its prominence as a Masonic hub. The Convent of the Order of Christ was a 12th-century stronghold for the Knights Templar. Once its order was disbanded, it is said that the Masonic Temple was formed to continue its mission. It is rumoured that King Ferdinand was himself a grand master of the Masonic Order and as such, influenced much of Sintra’s history as a Masonic centre of power.

Chapel

Standing guard over the Arches Yard is the sizeable red clock tower atop the old monastery chapel. The steeple of the chapel is embellished with white and emerald green tiles which beautifully contrast the red and yellow walls and the blue (or grey in our case) sky.

The chapel remains unchanged from its 16th-century design. 22 monks would come to pray here during their time at the monastery. The walls are entirely covered in green and white polychrome tiles which still shine inside the darkened chapel. In a small alcove is the ornate alabaster and black marble altar made by Nicolau de Chanterene in 1532. The expressions which he managed to carve out of the solid marble defy earthly conventions making it feel all the more holy.

Remnants of the Monastery

Opposite the altar is one of the few remaining original stained glass windows from the monastery. The coloured used within this design are so striking, and it’s hard to believe this piece is a few hundred years old. I loved how quiet it was inside the church, it seemed most people skipped it as they were in a rush in those group tours, but I was glad to have stopped inside as it was a wonderful moment to pause and reflect on the beauty all around me.

Wall Walk

Just down the stairs from the chapel is the Wall Walk, a small passage which leads you around the back of the palace. While the narrow walkway looks over a steep hillside, the brave will be rewarded with one of the most unbelievable views across Sintra.

Standing on this side of the palace, you can see the Moorish Castle on the other side of the forest. It seems so far away, and yet the entrance to the Moorish Castle is just on the other side of Pena Park.

Interior of the Palace

If you bought a ticket to enter the interior, make your way inside. This part of the tour often gets very crowded, and the line can get long, so best to do it as soon as you enter when the line is bound to be shorter or if it seems rather long, skip it and make your way towards the gardens, with the intention to return here later in the day. The palace is made up of two separate wings. They are distinguishable by their paint colours. Ochre for the new wing and burnt red for the old monastic side.

Entry Doorway

A stunningly embellished door, surrounded in carved florals now serves as the way in for visitors to the palace. This was the entrance formerly used by the Royal Family, providing access to the palace’s most private areas. This building was once the Hieronymite monastery, and although the spaces were converted from simple rooms for prayer into luxurious royal residences, the bones of the original structure remain the same.

The Hieronymite Convent Cloister

As you enter, you’ll step right into the cloisters. Look up and see how the open-air hallways continue on both floors of the palace. The entirety of this place is covered in azulejos, and ghastly faces stare down at you, carved in the gargoyles above. The centre of the cloister has a giant carving of a shell in the centre which is held up by four little turtles. The open shell represents a womb, as this little scene is an allegory for the vegetal world giving birth to the aquatic underworld. Like the wealthy Portuguese Kings who, with their finances, gave birth to the world’s best seafaring explorers.

Scullery

The scullery is the first room you’ll enter from the outside cloister. In large, dark wood cabinets along the walls are porcelain and crystal flatware from the Royal collection. Set up on one table just to the right of the entry door is a sample of what their tea sets would look like. Tiny, little cups and plates in the shape of seashells are ready for a hot pot of tea and finger sandwiches.

Dining Room

One of the most impressive rooms you’ll see on the first floor is the dining room. The dining room has the most remarkable ceilings made of intricate ribbed vaults and lined in tiles. The table is set like they’re still awaiting their visitors. Each piece of furniture was made for this exact space, the images of Portuguese animals of the forest carved into the backs of the chairs. The rainbow coloured glassware still catching the light white pours through the windows. Even from the other side of the room, you can see how truly amazing the view from the interior really is.

King Carlos’ Bedrooms

After the death of King Ferdinand II, the palace passed hands several times but eventually became the residences of King Carlos and his wife Dona Améli in 1890. The bedrooms and apartments on the lower floors belonged to King Carlos. These apartments were initially the former Chapter House of the Manueline monastery. They were used by King Ferdinand II as his servants quarters, but King Carlos actually preferred this more modest setting and left the upper more elaborate apartments for his wife. King Carlos’ bedroom is decorated in dark wood, with bright green accents. The Empire style was an early-nineteenth-century design movement which was inspired by Neoclassicism and Romanticism, and each piece of furniture in this room was designed within that style. On the walls, there are splendidly painted emotional landscapes, and throughout the room, classical sculptures of attractive women of mythology make almost any spectator blush.

King Carlos’ Studio

The reverie continues into King Carlos’ studio. Here we find a mural painted across the entire room of nymphs and satyrs playing in the Park of Pena. This painting is believed to have been painted by the King himself, who was obsessed with filling his private quarters in these fantastical scenes.

King Carlos’ Bathroom

Pena Palace was one of the first royal residences to have sanitation facilities specifically designed for personal hygiene. Despite being a bathroom, the room is nevertheless filled with decorative garnishes. The bathrooms are filled with luxurious furniture and lined top to bottom in the most exceptional tile work.

The Interior Niche

A small corner niche which you’ll see before going upstairs contains one of the oldest treasures of the former Monastery. This little niche features a mosaic wall decorated with shells, stones and porcelain pieces. Since it was transformed into a simple storeroom, there was no need to remove the old decor to make way for more modern decorations therein preserving its history for the modern era.

Bedroom of the Queen’s Secretary and Ladies-in-Waiting

Next, we head upstairs to find Queen Amélia’s apartments. The first room we enter is the bedroom of the Queen’s ladies in waiting. Initially, when King Ferdinand II lived here with Countess of Edla, this room was a small dressing room, but when Queen Amélia moved in, she required more space for her servants and noblewomen. One of the most beautiful objects in the room is the Indo-Portuguese rosewood bed, carved to perfection like the wood was made from butter. Above the bed are plastered a knotted row of branches which blossom with hundreds of pine cones so lifelike you’ll think they might fall down upon your head.

The Queen’s Withdrawing Room

The yellow room adjacent is the Queen’s Withdrawing Room. It features a stunning bunting of plaster roses which hang from the crown moulding. Rose motifs are etched into almost every inch of the vaulted ceiling. More proof of Ferdinand’s obsession with romanticism and bringing nature into the interior of the home.

Queen’s Bedroom

The most opulent of all the rooms in the Queen’s bedroom. Moorish decorations cover the walls and ceiling in a way that literally makes your jaw drop. Geometric patterns repeat on the roof and spread out onto all the walls below. The designs are centred around bright gold stars covered in sumptuous gold leaf. The dark wooden bed is given a baroque treatment with swirling bedposts and a headboard which surges and swells like the waves.

Study of Queen Amélia

Outside the bedroom, you’ll find the study of Queen Amelia. Originally this was the music room, a room which acted very similarly to a modern day living room. This was where the family would listen to various musicians play traditional Portuguese instruments. Eventually, the room was transformed into the Queen’s study. Today, it is used to display silverware, weaponry and even the desks and stationary of Queen Amélia. The room’s wallpaper is made to look like carved stoned with faux azulejos in green and white accents.

Green Room

The green room provides another brilliant example of Trompe-l’ œil. Here the wallpaper is made to replicated flowers and branches as well as traditional architectural carvings. Although some of the paint is peeling, I love how this part was left unrestored as it makes the building feel more authentic and shows its real age!

Arab Reception Room

Past the royal chambers, we find the Arab Reception room. Looking at this room from afar you might be fooled into thinking the walls open up to the exterior and the ceiling is fantastically carved. But in fact, these are all optical illusions. This technique is called ‘Trompe-l’ œil’ which is French for “to deceive the eye”. Objects which exist in three dimensions are here created in a two dimensional forced perspective with nothing else but paint. The paintings were made in 1854 by esteemed Italian scenographer Paolo Pizzi. This technique was employed to make otherwise small spaces to make them feel grandiose to the guests who would be received for the first time in this room.

The Galleries

The next few rooms were once used as the abbot’s suite when the building was a monastery. These now contain different trinkets, treasures and works of art which belonged to King Ferdinand II. This part of the tour felt so special since you were looking at all these personal items which help you understand the personality of the man who once owned this castle. The little things which make a house, a home.

Smoking Room

In the smoking room, we find a vast Islamic dome covered in Mudejar art. A stunning neo-rococo chandelier hangs from the ceiling, covered in Venetian glass in the shape of ivy climbing all over the wrought iron frame. The candles site inside morning glory flowers, also made from that fantastical Venetian glass. The white walls are covered intricate textures which were created to replicate the look of traditional Indian lacework. This was my favourite room, it felt both immensely regal, which also being restrained and demure.

Queen’s Terrace

The Queen had access to one of the most astonishing parts of the castle, the south facing terrace. From here she could look out over the majestic Sintra countryside and the castle’s exceptional architecture. During the reign of King Carlos and Queen Amélia, there was a large metal structure erected on the terrace so the king and queen could entertain their guests outdoors during the summer. In the centre of the terrace are a large sundial and solar quadrant which once fired a small cannon throughout the day to announce the presence of the royal family or visiting dignitaries.

Noble Hall

Upstairs, Noble Hall is one of the most impressive spaces in the palace. Compared to the relatively small sized bedrooms, this receptions hall was where the King took advantage of space. It was here where large parties were thrown, and the who’s who of Lisbon’s high society would come during the summer.

The Noble Hall was inspired by the Ottoman Court. Iron replicas of Turkish kings are located on either end of the room, in their hands, they hold huge golden torches. Rich, red leather sofas on either side of the hall were designed with mirrored canopies behind them to make the room appear much larger than it is in reality. It was also an excellent way for the elite to spy on those around them and see just who is sharing secrets with who.

Stag Hall

One of the last rooms you’ll see is the Stag Hall. Originally it was supposed to be the banqueting hall, but construction was halted, and it never came to be. The central column, designed to looks like a giant tree trunk, was going to be the enormous round table which guest would eat around like knights of stories past. On all the walls there would have been antique weapons on display, and each of the windows would have contained pieces of archaic stained-glass themed with heraldic motifs. Since this new part of the castle was never finished, it remains somewhat unfinished looking with only stuffed deer trophies decorating the plain white walls and glass display cases featuring the pieces of stained glass planned for the windows.

Kitchen

The last room you’ll see is the old kitchen, a real hit with chefs and foodies. In here are all the original kitchen utensils, pots and pans and other old-fashioned culinary tools found in this old Portuguese kitchen. The kitchen felt enormous compared to the rather small interior rooms, but it must have taken an army to feed the great parties which were no doubt held here. The new kitchen was designed to be close to the Stag Hall since it was meant to be the main dining area, but unfortunately for the poor chefs, this never came to be.

Cafe and Restaurant

After touring the castle, the cafe located on the terrace is a great spot to grab lunch. Although the restaurant here is rather expensive, the cafe is surprising cheap with a selection of delicious Portuguese pastries, sandwiches and more. If you brought your lunch, this is also an excellent opportunity to break out the picnic. While there might be better places to eat in town, it would take ages to get there and back so instead, enjoy the regal atmosphere around and soak in the view.

Gardens of Pena Park

After finishing up at the palace, it’s now time to explore the gardens of Pena. The map they give you when you enter is really confusing, so its best to just keep that adventuring spirit in front of your mind and just wander the park. Don’t worry about getting lost, you’ll eventually stumble upon some signage, which always helped us get back on the right track. The gardens cover over 85 hectares of land around the castle. If you love hiking, you should definitely try to come out here and explore the entirety of the park. This could take you all day and is certainly not for those in a rush, but if you have the time to space, there are so many amazing things to discover.

Cruz Alta

You can hike to the very top of the gardens to find the Cruz Alta, located 529 metres above sea level. This stone cross is situated at the highest point of the Sintra hills. The cross is made of intertwined branches and created to mark to the where the explorer D. Joao III claimed this land for Portugal. Another famous landmark is the Statue of the Warrior. This stunning granite sculpture made in 1848 by Ernesto Rusconi is of a non-descript knight who represented all those idealized, romantic notions in which the parks and palace sought to embody.

Compared to the hundreds of people at the palace, these winding pathways around the gardens felt like your own private area. We were often the only ones there, and in spite of the confusing map, we had a blast exploring and getting lost all along the way. Ferdinand wanted these gardens to feel like wandering through a romantic forest where you wouldn’t be surprised to come upon nymphs drinking spring water from the fountains or unicorns grazing on fern trees.

Greenhouse

The Hot House, or greenhouse, can be found just past the Camellia Gardens. The greenhouses’ importance is notable by the fact that it is surrounded by large stone walls which aim to protect and highlight this spot. The greenhouse was equipped with its own plumbing system, and you can find the old furnace outside which was used to heat the greenhouse throughout the year. This was used to keep those precious flowers which needed warmth, safe throughout the colder winters. Having this greenhouse meant that Ferdinand could grow many different impressive flowers and trees, which otherwise would have been impossible to flourish outside of their natural environment. One more example of how this palace made the impossible possible.

Throughout the garden, you’ll spot everything from magnolias, Japanese Cryptomeria, Chinese ginko, American sequoia, cypress, red cedar, as well as tree ferns from New Zeland and Australia. No matter what time of year you come, there is almost always something flowering.

Islamic-style domed pavilion

In the lower portion of the gardens, you might be surprised to find an Islamic-style domed pavilion. Around the edge of the dome, written in Arabic are the words “The Sultan D. Manuel built this chapel blessed in the name of Our Lady Mary of Pena, in the year 1503, in celebration of the safe return of Dom Vasco da Gama’s discovery of the lands and countries which he found…” The King was never a Sultan, but it’s just one more way that we can see how Ferdinand really loved a fairytale story, even about himself.

Further down, closer to the roadside entrance to the park, you’ll find the Grotto of the Monk. This was once a modest medieval garden where the Hieronymite monks would come to retreat the monastery and meditate in the peace and quiet of the forest.

Duck Houses

One of the last things in the park to explore before you exit are the Duck Houses. These stone towers look more like minature forts, but when you look closer at their tiny doors, you might catch a glimpse of a family of ducks making their way home. These were such a delight to Ferdinand’s guests, as everyone got a good laugh out of these ducks with their very own castle, within in a castle.

The duck houses mark the end of the tour. They are located at the official entrance to Pena Park. If you’re continuing on from here, it’s a short 10-minute walk over to the Moorish Castle, or you can hop on bus #434 to get back to Sintra station. While many people make Pena Palace a part of their day trip to Sintra, if you choose to explore the entirety of the park and spend some quality time inside the palace, you can easily dedicate an entire day to this wonderland. I hope that either way, you decide to visit this incredible site. I hope that you have a great time exploring all these secrets I’ve uncovered for you and that you share with me any new ones you discover!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of Pena Palace, Sintra first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Sintra Castles Itinerary

This itinerary features all the great sights, some time to relax, the best ways to avoid the crowds (as much as possible) and have fun exploring along the way! The itinerary takes us first to Pena Palace, then through the lush palace gardens, which lead us up to the ruins of the medieval Moorish castle. After touring these ancient stone walls, we head to the “millionaires manor,” the Quinta da Regaleira. Once thoroughly mindblown by these fantastical castles, it’s time to wander through the old town of Sintra, where we’ll stop for dinner and dessert before heading back to Lisbon. The blog post is broken up into each section of the itinerary, so if you want to skip to a specific portion, there are links below.

Table Of Contents

1. How to Get to Sintra
2. Tickets
3. When to Visit Sintra
4. Hours
5. Arrival in Sintra
6. Pena Palace
7. Gardens of Pena Park
8. Moorish Castle
9. Quinta da Regaleira
10. Interior of the Palace
11. Village of Sintra
12. Dinner & Dessert

How to Get to Sintra

Sintra is easily accessible from Lisbon by trains leaving from Rossio station. The trip requires no transfers and takes around 40 minutes. The round-trip journey costs just 4.50€, making it one of the most cost-efficient day trips. While trains are out to Sintra almost every 40 minutes, I highly recommend getting the train before 8 am. The train schedule changes slightly throughout the year, so I didn’t want to give you an exact time but leaving before 8 am means you’ll arrive before 9 am giving yourself plenty of time to get to your first destination with some time to spare before it opens.

Sintra seems to explode with tourist buses as the morning wears on, so early really pays off. Any chance of being tired is worth it for the experience of arriving at Pena Palace without having to wait in huge lines and fight the enormous crowds to see what’s around you. Also, have a metro card loaded with funds to tap on and off the train or buy your train tickets in advance. Even super early in the morning, there was a lineup at the ticket counter. We were happy to have our pre-loaded metro cards, which meant we could just tap right on them, ensuring we made it onto the train in time. It was surprising how critical those few minutes were in the outcome of our day.

Tickets

Purchasing your tickets in advance for Pena Palace and the Moorish castle is recommended. Adult tickets to Pena Palace are 14,00€ for exterior and interior tours or 7.50€ for the park and exterior of the palace only. The Moorish Castle costs 7.60€, but you’ll save 5% when you buy online. By taking care of this step in advance, you’ll save on time upon arrival and booking online also gets you 5% off!

Tickets are valid for the entire year, so even if you buy them and plan on visiting one day, which gets rained out, you can easily change things around without being beholden to ticket dates and times. You can also purchase them on your phone and show the e-ticket, no need to print out the physical document. The Quinta da Regaleira ticket line is significantly less busy, and you can buy those tickets at the gate. Since it’s the last destination of the day, it’s nice to leave it as an option in case you’re too tired or decide to spend more time elsewhere. Tickets into Quinta da Regaleira costs 8€.

Admission Options for Pena Palace

There are two options for Pena Palace admission. One is to tour the palace’s exterior and royal gardens. The other option will get you entry into the interior of the castle. If you are confident you’ll arrive early and are keen on seeing the rooms inside, go ahead and buy that ticket. But the lineup to get inside can get insanely long. They need to control the number of people who enter the buildings (something which isn’t monitored outside), so this often results in lengthy queues.

We were there as close to the opening as possible, and even we had to wait about 20 minutes to get inside. When we left, the line looked to be almost 2 hours long. While I thoroughly enjoyed touring the interior, there is no way it’s worth 2+ hours of waiting in line. If you think you can miss the interior, the gardens, and the exterior ticket is an excellent option since I think the best parts of the castle are the exterior anyway. It will save you a few euros and potentially a lot of time. If you did purchase a ticket for the interior tour but the lineup to get inside is gigantic, I would advise coming back right before closing when the crowds have cleared out.

When to Visit Sintra

Sintra is always busy. Yes, the winter will most likely be the least busy, but it’s also chilly and can be a bit grey. Since most of the things to see are outside, it’s not always the most comfortable time to explore. The height of the summer holidays is equally as miserable but instead because of the intense heat and crowds. Springtime is the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is the best chance you’ll see a small group reduction.

Avoid holidays when possible, as these bring in Portuguese tourists. As mentioned before, the earlier in the morning you arrive, the better chance you’ll have at beating the bus tours, which are the most significant crowd control issue. Always the most comfortable time to explore.

Hours

Pena Palace

Pena Palace is open all year round except December 25th and January 1st. During the Summer (March to October), the palace is open from 9:45 am until 7:00 pm (last entry 6:15), and the park is open from 9:30 am until 8:00 pm (last entry 7:00 pm). In the Winter (October to March), the palace & park are open from 10:00 am until 6:00 pm.

Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is open all year round except December 25th and January 1st. Last entry 1 hour before closing time. In the Summer (March to October), the hours are 9:30 am until 8:00 pm, and in the Winter (October to March), the hours are 10:00 am until 6:00pm.

Quinta da Regaleira

Quinta da Regaleira is open all year round except for December 24th and 25th, and January 1st. On December 31st, the opening hours are limited. During the Summer (April to September), the hours are 9:30 am to 7:00 pm, and in the Winter (October to March), they are 9:30 am to 6:00 pm.

Arrival in Sintra

There are two (well, three) options for getting around in Sintra. The first is to take the public buses, primarily bus #434, which services most of the tourist attractions you’ll be visiting in Sintra. This bus tends to have big lines up at the train stop since everyone getting on needs to purchase their day ticket, which slows things down. But once you have your pass, it’s super easy to jump on and off throughout the day. Tickets for this bus cost 5€ for a 24-hour pass.

Ubering to the Palace

The second option is jumping in an Uber. Ubers are a great way to get around Sintra but be warned that because some of the streets are one-way, up a long and winding hill, some drivers might take a while to get to you or might cancel frequently. The Uber ride from the train station to Pena Palace is around 6€ depending on the time of day and the weather. If you’re travelling with 3 or 4 people, Ubers can save you money compared to the bus pass. You don’t need to use transportation more than twice in this itinerary. If you haven’t used Uber before, download the app and use my referral code, rds9f, to get $5 off your first ride!

Walking Option

The third option is to walk. Walking from the train station to Pena Palace is a long journey, but if you’re keen on hiking, this is a great opportunity. Just leave yourself some extra time to hike up to the castle and still arrive at the gates at 9:30 am. Walking to and from the other points in our tour is a great way to save time and see some beautiful things along the way. While some of this tour will be on foot, it’s been tested with people of all fitness levels and ages, so there is no need to worry. If you feel like you need to take a break, remember that taking a seat, literally anywhere in Sintra, will always result in one of the most spectacular views you can get anywhere in the world.

Pena Palace

Pena Palace opens at 9:30 am. Even before this, the crowds lined up outside the gates to get inside this magnificent dwelling. Looking at this sumptuous and over-the-top architectural masterpiece, it’s hard to imagine that this site was once where a very modest monastery once stood.

History of Pena Palace

The Hieronymite monastery was built in 1503 in honour of the Virgin Mary, who is said to have appeared at the top of the mountain in a vision. After falling to ruins over the years due to religious upheavals, King Ferdinand II, who had been in love with this spot since he was a child, decided to buy the buildings and the surrounding lands. Construction of the new royal estate began in 1838.

Ferdinand was obsessed with romanticism in art and architecture. He wanted his contemporary summer house to feel like something out of a storybook. Oddly enough, the palace’s construction was taken on by a mining engineer, Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege. Perhaps this was because the Prince and his wife wanted their full say in the castle’s design. Yet they needed Eschwege’s planning prowess to help them achieve the look of a castle sprung forth from the rocks. There really is no one style to be found here. Instead, it’s a patchwork quilt of influences and themes. Ferdinand wanted to include Medieval and Islamic elements and Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Manueline. The Manueline architecture was the most iconic style in Portugal at the time. It was the millennial pink of its time.

Entrance to the Palace

While the entry gates are just off the roadside, the palace is a fair bit uphill from the main entrance. There is a mini-bus which runs up to the top, but it costs 3€ and more than the money, the line you need to wait in to get onto the bus is a huge inconvenience. Although a little long, the walk-up is actually quite enjoyable. If you have mobility issues, just take it slow and spend the extra time resting between spurts admiring all the beautiful flora and fauna in the garden.

At the top of the hill, the golden yellow walls, blue tile and red-painted exterior of the palace begin to emerge from the trees. Seeing this palace in real life is nothing like seeing the pictures. I really don’t think they can do it justice. Walking up those cobblestone steps makes you feel like you’re walking into a fantasy.

Door of Alhambra

The entryway into the castle is called the Door of Alhambra. It was inspired by the Alhambra Door of Justice in Granada, Spain. The doorway is covered in brightly painted tiles and decorated with various elegant leaves. Ferdinand wanted this gateway to be where his visitors left the real world behind and stepped into his dream world.

Open passing through the archway, we step into the ‘Coach Yard.’ This was as far as horses and carriages could come, and guests would make their way to the palace on foot. Standing here, we can look up at the ‘Monumental Gateway.’ The gateway’s design is a blend of architectural elements found all over Lisbon and which the Prince wanted to see incorporated into his palace.

The facade is covered in diamond-shaped stones, referencing the Casa dos Bicos in Alfama. On either side of the top of the gateway, we have arched domes, completed with rope-like decoration; the same was on the famed Tower of Belem. The exterior is finished in a series of round balls reminiscent of the Cunhal das Bolas in Barrio Alto. In the centre of the arch, on the very top, is a pair of crossed swords atop a knight’s helmet, with a plume of lush feathers springing out of the top.

Upper Courtyard

Step through the archway and make your way around the swirling passageway to the upper courtyard. It’s here you’ll finally have the chance to study the tiles which make up the exterior hue of this building. Tiles, or Azulejos as they are called in Portuguese, have a strong history in Portugal, dating back to the 13th century. The Moors brought them here, who invaded much of Spain and Portugal in the 1200s. The word azulejo in Arabic means “small polished stone.” In Islam, they believed in aniconism, the avoidance of images of sentient beings in art. As such, geometric shapes became the most popular form of decor. As such, most of the tiles brought with them from Islam continue this tradition. The geometric and natural forms are striking, and their colours haven’t faded significantly over the years.

The Triton Portico

The Triton Portico is one of the most impressive elements of Pena Palace. Triton is meant to serve as an allegorical of the world’s creation. The facade is divided into two factions, the aquatic world below and the terrestrial world above. They are separated by Triton, a monster half man and half fish but a part of both worlds. Bits of corals surround Triton’s feet; above him, you can see the carved grape vines and leaves blossoming wildly. The Portuguese were a seafaring nation, and aquatic symbolism was always an important aspect of their artistic culture.

Interior Tour of Pena Palace

After studying the first courtyard, you can visit the interior if you buy a ticket. This part of the tour often gets very crowded, and the line can get long, so best to do it right away when the line is shorter. The palace’s interiors are located inside the old Hieronymite convent. As such, the layout follows the design of the former convent exactly. As you enter, you’ll step right into the open cloisters. Look up and see how the open-air hallways continue on both palace floors. This place is covered in azulejos, and ghastly faces stare down at you, carved in the gargoyles above.

Dining Room

The dining room is one of the most impressive rooms on the first floor. The dining room has the most remarkable ceilings made of intricate ribbed vaults and lined with tiles. The table is set like they’re still awaiting their visitors. Each piece of furniture was made for this exact space, the images of Portuguese animals of the forest carved into the backs of the chairs.

Plaster and paint were used to create illusions throughout the interior. This technique is called ‘Trompe-l’ œil,’ French for “to deceive the eye.” Objects in three dimensions are here created in a two-dimensional forced perspective. In King Carlos’ studio, we find a painting of Nymphs and Satyrs playing in the Park of Pena, which is believed to have been painted by the King himself.

Interior Ornamentation

Stucco was used to decorate the ceilings of the interior, some designed in the shapes of pine cones, leaves and branches. In other rooms, we find the ceilings patterned with Islamic designs in the stucco. Walking from room to room, you feel like you’re entering another world.

One of my favourite parts of touring the interior was all the personal touches, decorations, knickknacks and treasures. The little things which make a house, a home. They were those fascinating treasures that made the castle feel like someone really lived there.

Noble Hall

Upstairs, the Noble Hall is one of the most impressive spaces. Compared to the relatively small sizes of the bedrooms, this reception hall was where the King took advantage of space. It was here where large parties were thrown, and the who’s who of Lisbon’s high society would come during the summer. The Noble Hall was inspired by the Ottoman Court. Iron replicas of Turkish kings are on either end of the room; they hold huge golden torches. Comfortable red leather sofas on either side of the hall were designed with mirrored canopied behind them to make the room appear much larger. It was also an excellent way for the elite to spy on those around them!

Kitchen

The last room you’ll see is the old kitchen, a real hit with chefs and foodies. Here are all the original kitchen utensils, pots and pans and other antique items found in the antiquated Portuguese kitchens. The kitchen felt enormous when the rooms were all rather small, but it must have taken an army to feed the tremendous parties which were no doubt held here.

Arches Yard

After exiting the interior, you have the chance to now tour the opposite side of the outside of the palace. Walk underneath Triton’s arch out to the Arches Yard. This is where you’ll find the beautiful golden-yellow Moorish arches, which create a window onto the village of Sintra and across the countryside below.

There is nothing to compare this view to; it seems to go on and on forever on a clear day. From atop this peak, you can spy on all the rich estates below, one of which is actually owned by Madonna, the queen of pop herself! Sintra is still where the rich and famous come to escape the city and live in some of the most lavish properties in the world.

Convent of the Order of Christ

Take the chance to turn your eyes away from the incredible view and look toward one of the ornate windows on the main facade. This piece was inspired by the chapter house window in the Convent of the Order of Christ in Tomar. The window is surrounded by alchemical symbols, some of which seem to have a mystical aura. Much of Sintra’s more obscure lore lies in its prominence as a Masonic hub. The Convent of the Order of Christ was a 12th-century stronghold for the Knights Templar. Once its order was disbanded, it is said that the Masonic Temple was formed to continue its mission. It is rumoured that King Ferdinand was himself a grand master of the Masonic Order and, as such, influenced much of Sintra’s history as a Masonic centre of power.

Standing guard over the Arches Yard is the sizeable red clock tower atop the old monastery chapel. The chapel’s steeple is embellished with white and emerald green tiles, which beautifully contrast the red and yellow walls and the blue (or grey, in our case) sky.

Chapel

The chapel remains unchanged from its 16th-century design. 22 monks would come to pray here during their time at the monastery. The walls are entirely covered in green and white polychrome tiles, which still shine inside the darkened chapel. In a small alcove are the ornate alabaster and black marble altar made by Nicolau de Chanterene in 1532. The expressions he managed to carve out of the solid marble defy earthly conventions making it feel all the more holy.

Opposite the altar is one of the few remaining original stained glass windows from the monastery. The coloured used within this design is so striking, and it’s hard to believe this piece is a few hundred years old. I loved how quiet it was inside the church; most people skipped it as they rushed in those group tours. But I was glad to have stopped inside as it was a wonderful moment to pause and reflect on the beauty around me.

Wall Walk

The Wall Walk is just down the stairs from the chapel, a small passage leading you around the back of the palace. While the narrow walkway looks over a steep hillside, the brave will be rewarded with one of the most incredible views across Sintra. Standing on this side of the palace, you can see the Moorish Castle on the other side of the forest.

After touring the castle, the cafe on the terrace is a great spot to grab lunch. Although the restaurant here is rather expensive, the cafe is surprisingly cheap, with a selection of delicious Portuguese pastries, sandwiches and more. If you brought your lunch, this is also a good opportunity to break out the picnic. While there might be better places to eat in town, it would take ages to get there and back, so instead, enjoy the great atmosphere around you while enjoying a simple lunch.

Gardens of Pena Park

Follow the map at the bottom of this post to find the pathway through the Gardens of Pena Park, which will take us toward the Moorish Castle. The map they give you when you enter is really confusing, and honestly, as long you’re headed down, you’re probably on the right path. Just keep your eyes open for signs of Moorish Castle. The Gardens of Pena Park have dozens of hidden secrets you’ll stumble upon. Stone couches, glass-walled greenhouses, tiny Islamic gazebos, and dozens of flowers. Compared to the hundreds of people at the palace, these pathways around the gardens feel empty. We were often the only ones there, and despite the confusing map, we had a blast exploring and getting lost all along the way.

The gardens cover over 200 hectares of land around the castle. If you love hiking, you should definitely try to come out here and explore the entirety of the park. This could take you all day and is certainly not for those in a rush, but if you have the time to space, there are many amazing things to discover. We only saw a tiny part of the gardens, but even that was absolutely incredible.

Variety of Flora and Fauna

King Ferdinand wanted this garden to not only exemplify the beauty of Portugal but also plants and flowers from all over the world. You’ll spot everything from Magnolias, Japanese Cryptomeria, Chinese Ginko, American Sequoia, Cypress, Red Cedar, and tree ferns from New Zealand and Australia.

No matter what time of year you come, something is almost always blooming. Finding your way toward the exit can be challenging since the park was designed as a labyrinth. But as long as you’re headed toward the Pena Garden entrance, you’re on the right track!

Moorish Castle

Upon exiting the Gardens of Pena Park, walk about 10 minutes uphill toward the entrance to the Moorish Castle. The Moorish Castle is a stark contrast to Pena Palace. There are no colours to be found here, only the natural grey of the rocks and bright greens of the forest around it. While the entrance to the castle is right off the side of the road, the journey towards the original entry is about a 15-minute walk from there. You’ll stroll along a rolling pathway leading you around the castle walls’ exterior. Look up as you examine the old stone walls above the steep hillside around you.

History of the Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is one of the oldest parts of Sintra. It was built in the 8th and 9th centuries by the Moors. The term “Moors” was a general term used to name the Muslim inhabitants of Portugal. They brought with them their rich architectural histories, which generations would continue to be inspired by. In 1147, the Christian forces of the Reconquista fought the Moorish people and took the castle for themselves. It was used for military defence during the 14th century. But eventually, it feels like ruins when it is no longer needed for security. Over the next few hundred years, it became almost completely abandoned. With earthquakes, fires and neglect, many thought the castle would be lost to the ages.

But when King Ferdinand II bought Pena Palace, he also took some interest in the Castle of the Moors. Ferdinand really did have a passion for history. He took it upon himself to start preserving the remains of the castle and rebuilding the portions beyond repair.

Moorish Chapel

Upon entering through the castle’s main gates, you’ll see one of Ferdinand’s new constructions, a small chapel. This chapel contains relics found on the site, some from the Neolithic area (5000 BC). Important artifacts from the 10th-12th century Islamic cultures have also been found and are now on display inside the chapel. Outside the chapel, you can see a glass cover atop the stones displaying replica bones from where bodies were discovered buried beneath the castle floor. The King pointedly collected the bones and placed them in a small tomb. A large stone marks the spot with an engraving which says, “What man has joined only God will set apart.“

Upon entering through the Curtain Wall, to the left of the archway is the site of the old stables. A newly built stylized wooden structure marks the spot where you can grab a hot drink on a cold day or a cold drink on a warm day. Either way, it’s a nice place to recharge to hike up the castle walls.

Phases of Construction

Take a closer look at the walls of the castle. See if you can make out the four distinct different layers of which they’re made up. Each one tells the story of the people who ruled over this structure. The first layer is made of granite blocks which rest on the bedrock over what was once an Islamic house and silos in the 12th century. The second phase was a reconstruction using ancient techniques made in the 12-13th century. The third phase was built in the 19th century when King Ferdinand took possession of the castle and helped with its restoration. The last stage was built in the 20th century when the building became a tourist destination run by the government. Steps were taken to ensure its safety and strength for future generations.

The large open courtyard is called the Pracad de Armas, where the military garrison would gather in the 13th century. When it was remodelled by King Ferdinand later in the 19th century, it was made into a garden oasis space for contemplation. It is still a beautiful area for people to sit and enjoy the view if they cannot manage the hike up the walls.

Exploring the Ruins

We visited on an especially windy day. Despite this, we walked the entire way to the top of the walls for a spectacular panorama of Sintra and Pena Palace. Walking up these walls, you feel like an explorer discovering ancient ruins. When you finally make it to the top, the scene is stupendous. Pena Palace seems so far away; it was hard to imagine that you were standing on that yellow terrace only hours ago.

The walk down from the tower is much more leisurely. Although the landscape is the same going down as it was going up, somehow, it seems different, almost like getting another angle on the entire vista. It’s incredible to observe the lush bushes, trees and flowers that sprout from within the rocks themselves.

Quinta da Regaleira

Next, it’s time to head over to the Quinta da Regaleira. To get to this palace, you can summon an Uber from the Moorish Castle (be warned, this can take some time since the castle is located at the top of a one-way street, we had multiple Ubers cancel but eventually got one. It just takes some patience). The Ubers are extremely well priced at approximately 6-9 euros.

You can also take the bus 434 towards the Palácio Nacional de Sintra and then walk the rest of the way (approx. 13 mins). You can also take the tuk-tuks, which wait outside the Moorish Castle. This is probably the fastest option, they are always waiting there but their speed and availability come at a price (about 5 euros per person). If you’re in a rush, it’s a great option to get around if money isn’t a problem.

History of the Quinta da Regaleira

The Quinta da Regaleira was the summer palace of António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, or ‘Monteiro the Millionaire’ as he was better known at the time. King Ferdinand made it popular to come and build spectacular palaces in Sintra, and Monteiro wanted in on the trend. So many rich aristocrats were building summer houses in Sintra, but Monteiro wanted his to be jaw-droppingly ornate. He wanted it to be even more fantastical than the King’s palace. Spread across the hillsides of Sintra, Monteiro created a veritable garden of Eden for himself and his family.

Luigi Manini

The palace was designed by the Italian architect Luigi Manini. Upon his visit to the palace, Lord Byron called it “a glorious Eden.” poet L.V. de Camões wrote that it was “an oasis where one could imagine that every pool and stream has nymphs in its waters.” Monteiro believed in primitivism, and as such, the layout of his gardens may have been carefully designed. But the plants were left to grow as they pleased, and in this wildness is where we find some of the most beautiful parts of the palace. The tree spread across the grounds seemed to almost camouflage the buildings below, swallowing them up whole beneath their lush green leaves. Only parts of the structures can be seen peeking out from beneath, giving visitors only clues about where to find those secrets.

Regaleira Chapel

Upon walking in, before visiting the main interior of the palace, first explore the grounds. Standing close to the entrance is the Regaleira Chapel. Its architecture is so similar to the palace’s that it almost looks like a minature version. Inside is a richly decorated interior, with stucco carved into elaborate shapes and decorations dripping off the ceiling. Delicate leaves seem to grow out of the walls, and it feels like if you could reach out and touch them, they would perhaps wilt under pressure. Frescoes depicting Teresa of Ávila and Saint Anthony are painted onto the walls and ceilings. At the same time, the windows are made of brilliant blue stained glass.

Free Masons

On the floor, the richly hued tiles form the shape of the armillary sphere of the Portuguese discoverers. This symbol you’ll more than likely have seen all across Lisbon. The armillary sphere is a model of constellations in the sky which was used to help the Portuguese navigate the globe. These scientific discoveries helped the Portuguese become wealthy explorers. As such, science was almost believed to be just as powerful as religion. And the Free Masons thought science was the guiding light in the world’s darkness. Around the sphere, you’ll see various pentagrams. The pentagram is a five-pointed star often associated with mysticism and the occult. Rumours abound of Monteiro’s association with the Knight Templar. He designed this entire palace as Masonic Temple, and symbolism from their order can be found all over if you know where to look.

God’s Promenade

Continue walking along the path towards the Gods Promenade and grotto. This little area features dozens of statues of classical gods hidden amongst the sweeping greenery. Among the flora, see if you can spot the many cedar and acacia trees which grow in the garden. These trees are of special importance as they were often associated with the Free Masons. Cedars are considered the symbol of eternity as these trees are some of the strongest and longest-living trees on earth. Cedar trees were thought the be what the Temple of Jerusalem and the Ark of the Covenant were made of. Acacia trees are evergreen and, as such, a symbol of the soul’s immortality.

You’ll find secret tunnels throughout the park, some of which have no artificial light, and you need to break out your iPhone flashlight to find your way. I kept wondering if, at one point, we would be turned away or be met with an “off-limits” sign, but that never happened. We were totally left to explore the park-like our own playground. These secret tunnels help lead you to the grounds of the palace. Walk down to the grotto and find your way through the tunnels up the hill, and you might find yourself standing at the bottom of the famed Initiation Well.

Initiation Wells

There are two Initiation Wells located on the property. Even though they are called ‘wells,’ they have never used a water source; their purpose is entirely ritualistic. It is thought that these wells were once more linked to the Knights Templar and mysticism and perhaps used in initiation ceremonial rites. Both of the wells contain a set of winding stairs. In many cultures, these winding stairs are thought to represent both life and rebirth.

The largest well contains nine platforms. These nine levels were thought to symbolize the nine sections of Purgatory and the nine circles of Hell from Dante’s Divine Comedy. At the bottom of the well, as both seen from above and below, is a large compass inlaid over a Knights Templar cross. With symbols like these, it’s hard to ignore all the rumours about the Masonic symbolism in the palace. The smaller well, named the ‘Unfinished Well’ is its walls are rougher and more naturalist, and it feels much more ominous to explore as it was created out of mother earth herself.

Portal of the Guardians

You’ll find the Portal of the Guardians in the centre of the upper portion of the grounds. This building is made of two towers connected by a central pavilion. In the centre are two angry lizards clamouring over a giant conch shell. Above are a series of fillagree above the archway carved into the shape of fish heads. Behind the entrance, you’ll find one of the hidden passageways into the Initiation Well.

You’ll find more mystical influences inside many of the little caves and grottos. Inside this cave, we found the image of the blazing star hanging above the centre of the room, suspiciously anchored to the ceiling with a pulley so the star could be lowered or raised. The blazing star is special for the Knight Templar as it represents man’s knowledge and how intelligence is the secret to bringing light into the darkness. The sun is often seen in areas where a ritual was practised, and it was especially ominous here in the echoing cavern, the eyes of the siren sitting above the fountain the only ones looking back at us.

Interior of the Palace

The final part of the grounds to explore is the palace’s interior. Auspicious gargoyles stare down at any visitors stepping inside, and the greying walls make the otherwise ubiquitous sandstone look very grim. The castle is covered in ornate capital and gothic pinnacles. A fantastical octagonal tower is atop the palace, like the topping to a wedding cake.

The first room is one of the most impressive. The dining room’s main feature is the incredible hunting scene carved into the stucco on the fireplace mantle. Atop the mantle is a statue of a woodsman. Across the room, beautiful hand-painted wallpapers depict more scenes of country life in Portugal. It’s both regal and quaint, all at once. The rest of the rooms are just as ornate, although the use of wood throughout keeps it feeling more like a lodge than a castle.

Village of Sintra

After touring all these famous castles and palaces, it’s finally time to head back into the town of Sintra and explore the tiny streets and hidden alleyways before heading home. You can easily walk from the Quinta da Regaleira into the main part of the village, and the walk is part of the fun! I was amazed at how, as the day wore on and the tourist began to journey back, the city started to open up and once more feel like just another quiet, little village.

There are so many charming cafes and shops in the main parts of town; each one is worth poking your head inside if something catches your eye. Their post office was one of my favourite random places. I stopped in awe at the beautiful tile work that continued throughout the little building.

Outside the Palácio Nacional de Sintra is a great place to take a seat and enjoy the view of the colourful houses stacked on top of each other and look up, way up, to see the walls and towers of the Moorish Castle high above you.

Dinner & Dessert

If you aren’t rushing to get home, it’s worth stopping for dinner in town at Tascantiga. This little cafe covered in red and white gingham table clothes serves traditional Portuguese tapas in a friendly environment where you feel like family the minute you walk in the door.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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For dessert, you must head to the famous Casa Piriquita for the traditional Sintra pastry, Travesseiro de Sintra (or Sintra’s Pillows). These flaky rectangular desserts are stuffed with whipped egg custard and almonds and look like tiny, fluffy pillows. They are the perfect thing to grab and enjoy on your train ride back to the city.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Leaving Sintra

Sintra is incredible; many tourists flock here, but there’s a reason they do. If you come early, you’ll get ahead of the big groups. Whenever you feel like there’s too much of a crowd in one area, it’s usually pretty easy to just wander somewhere else and wait for those clusters to leave. I wish we had chosen to spend a night in town since I would have loved to walk the streets at night when almost all the day-trippers headed home, and you would have the city practically all to yourself. If that works for your schedule, I would definitely recommend doing that. But a whole day in Sintra still was plenty of time for us to see everything on our list at a gentle enough pace to soak it all in.

Have you been to Sintra, or are you planning a trip there? Let me know your favourite spots or any questions you have in the comments!

Happy Travel Adventurers!

The post Explore the Enchanting Castles of Sintra: A One-Day Self-Guided Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Bertrand Livraria
2. Alfama District
3. Lavadouro Publico
4. Parc Eduardo VII
5. Rua da Rosa in Bairro Alto
6. Bica Elevator
7. Rua da Condessa
8. Miradouro de Santa Luzia
9. Carmo Convent
10. Jeronimos Monastery
11. Tower of Belém
12. LX Factory
13. Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara
14. Pink Street
15. Pastéis de Belém
16. Arco Da Rua Augusta
17. Lisbon Story Arch
18. Sintra

Bertrand Livraria

Bertrand Livraria is the oldest bookstore in the world. It was opened in 1732 and survived both the fire, earthquake and tsunami of 1755 which levelled much of Lisbon. Today it is standing like a quiet landmark in the middle of the busy city. There is only a small sign out front announcing its historic status. The blue and white tiles, which are so popular across Lisbon, are some of the most iconic and their tiled wall, from the 1700s is an incredible place to take a snapshot. I love the way they appear to bloom like flowers.

Alfama District

Alfama was one of the only neighbourhoods to entirely withstands the massive earthquake of 1755. This district is littered with historic houses as old as the city itself, cobblestone streets which are so worn down the stones are almost indistinguishable from each other as well as some of the most vibrant personalities the city has to offer. The squares of Alfama are alight with colourful banners and decorations as there always seems to be some sort of party or festival happening here. Mixed in with the ancient stones and tiles, the colours and breathtaking backdrops here are unreal.

Lavadouro Publico

In the Alfama neighbourhood, if you know where to look, you can step inside a historical public laundry facility. Inside are several large washing basins where adorable old ladies still wash and dry clothes, carpet and more for the neighbourhood. But what makes this place so neat, aside from the fact that it is a little piece of history frozen in time, are the colour block walls and the way the clothes which hang to dry create a pattern on the glass blocks separating the washing area from the drying racks.

Parc Eduardo VII

One of the first places we visited when we arrived in the city was Parc Eduardo VII. We landed super early in the morning, well before we were able to check into our Airbnb, and needed somewhere to relax and the park was one of the only things open. Parc Eduardo is located at the north end of the central downtown area. Constructed in 1902 the garden stretches over 26 hectares and over looks the Avenida da Liberdade. From the top of the long stretch of green grass and manicured bushes, you have a beautiful view of the Tagus river, and the city stretched out around it. From here not only do you have a fantastic view, but have a better idea of the size and scope of Lisbon.

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Rua da Rosa in Bairro Alto

Bairro Alto is a neighbourhood which absolutely silent during the day, and yet at night, it explodes with life! It’s where you’ll find all the trendiest bars and the hottest night life. But during the day time, it’s a fantastically peaceful place to explore and admire the iconic Portuguese tiles and bright coloured apartment buildings. Walking down the streets you’ll hear only the sound of your footsteps and the occasion resident sweeping off their front steps.

Bica Elevator

The Bica Elevator is one of the most popular spots for a photo is Lisbon. And while it might seem overly touristy during the day, in the early morning this part of the Bica neighbourhood is absolutely stunning and provides incredible photography opportunities. The old tram began running 1892 to help the residents of Lisbon get up the steep hills upon which the city is built on top of. Although these trams and the surrounding neighbourhood are always heavily graffitied, this somehow only adds to the vibrant nature of the town and doesn’t detract from it.

Rua da Condessa

At the end of the Rua da Condessa, in Bairro Alto, you’ll find a long staircase, flanked on either side by dazzling buildings. In between the two buildings is framed on the most magnificent vistas in Lisbon. In the distance, high atop the hill is one of Lisbon’s old ruins, like the old guard looking down over the new city.

Miradouro de Santa Luzia

My favourite Miradouro is the Miradouro de Santa Luzia! Not only does it have one of the most spectacle views across Alfama and the Tagus river, but is also has a lush garden, incredible tile work veranda and lots of rich, blooming trees. No matter which way you’re looking, there is something absolutely magical to see here. This place gets mobbed during the day time, but if you arrive early enough (especially at sunset) you’ll be in for a real treat!

Carmo Convent

The Carmo Convent was once Our Lady of Mount Carmel, a Catholic convent located in the heart of Barrio Alto. Fires, earthquakes, political and religious upheaval all resulted in the convent falling to ruins, but thankfully no one had the funds to demolish it. In the later 20th century, it was converted into a museum and what was left of the structure was given supports to prevent its further degeneration. The interior of the convent, with it’s roofless view of the sky is breathtaking. If you’re lucky enough to be there at night or when there is an event, the interior is lit up to highlight the architectural details while the open rooftop provides stunning views of the stars above.

Jeronimos Monastery

The Jeronimos Monastery was built in the 15th century by King Manuel. Manuel used money the realm gained from explorations around the world to fund its construction. Portugal was known for its explorers and as such, made a lot of money from its imports. This meant the architect had a virtually unlimited budget for the construction. And it’s for this reason that we find this opulent, renaissance building we see today. No matter where you turn or where you look, there are exquisitely framed shots. Hidden in the details throughout the building are oceanic elements. Each one reflecting this strong seafaring country, and are a joy to discover as you explore.

Tower of Belém

The Tower of Belém is located along the scenic Tagus river. It was once a defensive system for Lisbon to help the military see any incoming ships into their harbour. The tower is both a military structure but also an architectural gem of the city. Standing in low tide, on the shores of the river, looking up at this tower is a magnificent sight to see. There’s no need to wait in the super long line and pay six euros to get inside. The view from the exterior is much prettier anyways and exploring it from all angles along the banks of the river is much more fun than waiting in line.

LX Factory

The LX Factory is located west of the city centre but easily accessible by Uber or metro. It’s a hipster mecca built in what used to be a 19th-century industrial site. This area has yet to be overrun with tourists. And, for now, is a calm, peaceful stretch of trendy stores and cute cafes. One of the best places to visit here is Ler Devagar. Ler Devagar is a charming bookshop built inside an old newspaper printing press facility. It feels like a mix between abandoned factory and Belle’s library from Beauty and the Beast.

Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara

My other favourite Miradouro is the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcantara. This stunning lookout also has a beautiful square, and nearby kiosk, where you can grab a Ginjinha to drink and sit watching the sunset. Often this square draws groups of musicians who preform traditional music for the crowds which gather. From here you can see across the entire city, over to St. George’s Castle and the surrounding hillside. Looking out at the view, drink in my hand and music in my ears, is honestly one of my favourite memories of the entire trip.

Pink Street

Located along the Ruo Nova Do Carvalho is where you’ll find the insta-famous ‘pink street’. At night this area acts as Lisbon’s ‘Red Light District.’ But during the day the charming pink-painted road makes everything a little less sinister. People have had a lot of opinions about this street, some recommending to skip visiting it. I think some people expected a pretty and pristine roadway as it appeared on some people’s feeds. But many Instagrammers highly photoshop their pictures in order for the road to look cleaner and empty.

So here is the real thing. No photoshopping. Here it is in the raw. I actually still thought it was super cute, as long as you know what to expect. I loved the way the colours on either side played off the road. It’s an adorable little spot to stumble upon when exploring downtown.

Pastéis de Belém

The Belem Monastery was where the recipe for Portuguese egg tarts was invented. These are now popular the world over but nowhere more than in Lisbon. You’ll find these sweet treats everywhere but Pastéis de Belém is where it all began, and you’d be remiss not to take a million pictures of these delicious treats before devouring them all. The shop they are sold in is in itself a becoming maze of white and blue tiles walls and smells heavenly. It’s a great place to sit and enjoy those sweet treats along with an espresso in hand, soaking up the atmosphere of this historic bakery.

Arco Da Rua Augusta

The entryway to Lisbon’s largest square can be found through the Arco Da Rua Augusta. The gateway opens up onto the Comercio Plaza which looks out over the Tagus River. This archway is located along one of the busiest streets in Lisbon and sometimes it can get annoyingly touristy. But if you arrive here early in the morning, you’ll be left only with the elegant scene of 18th century Lisbon.

Lisbon Story Arch

Located down a quiet staircase just nearby a busy tourist lookout point you’ll find the Lisbon Story Arch. It’s a bright and cheerful series of funny cartoons representing the history of Lisbon. In a city which is brimming with street art and graffiti, this is one of the best pieces which is not only a work of art but also gives you a little bit of history lesson to boot!

Sintra

Sintra is located just 45 minutes by train outside the city, and 30 minutes by car. This village is home to some of the most incredible castles and historical buildings around Lisbon, and it feels like living inside a fairytale. Pena Palace is the most fantastical of all the structures and whose colours seem to beam across Sintra’s skyline. It’s probably the most popular photographed spot in all of Portugal and as such is bursting with tourists. Get here as early as possible, a few minutes before opening if you can, and you’ll find it to be so much more enjoyable than only an hour or two later when you can barely move for the people. And who can blame them for all coming, it really is as amazing as you hear it is!

Hopefully, this helps you out in your quest for finding the best Lisbon has to offer! Let me know in the comment what your favourite part of the city was or what you’re most looking forward to seeing.

Happy Travel Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Lisbon Photography Guide Incredible Instagrammable Places You Must-See first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. 1. Thinking Portuguese is Spanish
2. 2. Rushing Through the City
3. 3. Waiting for the Santa Justa Elevator or Torre de Belem Elevator
4. 4. Not Exploring with a Local
5. 5. Not Bringing Shoes with Grip
6. 6. Thinking that Bread is Free in Restaurants
7. 7. Not Jumping in an Uber
8. 8. Forgetting to a Buy a Transport Card
9. 9. Paying for Overpriced Fado Shows
10. 10. Not Tasting Ginjinha on the Street
11. 11. Not Being Aware of your Surroundings
12. 12. Not Remembering to Reapply Sunscreen in the Afternoon
13. 13. Only Sampling the Belém Pastéis de Nata
14. 14. Not Learning How to Order Coffee

1. Thinking Portuguese is Spanish

While many travellers might initially assume that Portuguese is similar to Spanish, trust me, it’s NOT! I had just been to Mexico City earlier in the year, and when I started my Portuguese lessons, I thought all that Spanish would have helped – nope, that was not the case! I found Portuguese a harder language to learn than even Japanese, and I greatly respect anyone who has mastered the language.

Don’t try to speak Spanish thinking that locals will understand that more than English if you don’t know how to speak Portuguese. Most Portuguese people prefer English to Spanish. I was surprised by how many locals spoke terrific English, but don’t rely on that. Ensure you learn at least a few words; the basics are pretty easy to grasp, and it makes a big impression on those you speak to. Below are a few key phrases I found to be the most useful.

Hello – Olá
Goodbye – Adeus
Good Morning – Bom dia
Good Afternoon – Boa tarde
Good Night – Boa noite
Thank You – Obrigado (if said by a man) Obrigada (if said by a woman)
Sorry – Desculpe
Yes – Sim
No – Não
Please – Por Favor
This (good for pointing to menu or food items) – isto
How Much? – Quanto custa?

2. Rushing Through the City

One of the biggest mistakes I think people make is trying to rush through cities. And a part of me understands this, we don’t all have unlimited vacation time, and flights are expensive, especially if you’re visiting from outside of Europe. We cannot pop over from Spain or France on a long weekend. But Lisbon is such a vibrant city, and even though it appears to be very small, it’s both dense in physical form and history, steeped inside its walls. Spending a week here made us feel more like we could explore those hidden corners or get lost without worrying about losing precious time.

I know many people can see all there is to see here in a jam-packed three-day itinerary, but we adored having an entire week to relax and see the sights. Europeans, in general, but perhaps Portuguese more so, take things slow. They don’t like being rushed or on time, for that matter. So being able to adjust to their way of doing things felt more authentic than trying to rush through lunch and run out without savouring that last glass of wine. I felt like a week with one or two little outings outside the city was a perfect time!

3. Waiting for the Santa Justa Elevator or Torre de Belem Elevator

The Santa Justa Elevator is one of the city’s oddest yet most stunning sights. It was initially built in the 19th century for locals to use to get up the steep hill from the Baixa district to the Largo do Carmo. Its elegant design made in wrought-iron and covered in neo-gothic arches and striking geometric patterns is a spectacle for the eyes. But when the city of Lisbon bought the tower, they changed it from being a free mode of transportation and turned it into a touristy nightmare. Now lines run around the block, and tourists pay €6.40 for a 1-minute trip up to the top.

At the top, you do get one of the most astonishing views across the city, but this area is easily accessible without taking the lift. If you take the escalators inside Rossio Station, up to the Carmo Convent, the viewpoint is located just around the corner. To get to the viewpoint, you pass through a small restaurant but don’t worry about going inside, they are used to this, and it’s not a problem. On there, you’ll find the same view all those other tourists, who wasted hours in line, get to see. The Torre de Belem has the same kind of issue.

While the outside is a must-see in town, the interior is pretty lacking, and the view from the top of the tower is not that impressive. The lines can be hours long, and it is much better to skip it altogether and spend more time walking along the beautiful waterfront with waterside views of the tower.

4. Not Exploring with a Local

Lisbon is one of those cities which seems to have a million hidden secrets and things you can’t learn from a book. We hired a private tour guide to give us a 4-hour walking tour of the city on the first full day we arrived. This is the PERFECT way to get introduced to the town. Bruno, our historian for the day, told us many charming stories as we wandered the streets. He took us to the tremendous must-see sights and unknown little treasures.

There are plenty of free tours you can take, but Lisbon is booming with tourists, and often these tours are enormous, with over 30-40 people in one group with one guide. This makes it hard to hear the sound of streetcars and traffic and almost impossible to ask those burning questions you might be wondering. If budget allows, go for the private tour options, which can also be customized to your group’s interests.

5. Not Bringing Shoes with Grip

I realize you might think this is obvious; comfortable shoes are essential when travelling, but I’ve never had so much trouble walking as I did in Lisbon. The worn-down cobblestones sidewalks and the steep hills mean that you need comfy shoes and shoes with a great grip! I have a few excellent pairs of travel shoes which I’ve never had problems with that failed me on a few occasions when I was almost sent flying down the hill!

Thankfully, a few other party members had grippy shoes, and we would take turns holding onto each other when walking down those steep hills. I had heard that Lisbon was like Rome in that it was a town built on seven hills, but unlike Rome, these hills are incredibly steep, and climbing up and down the streets of Alfama is a workout and a half!

6. Thinking that Bread is Free in Restaurants

At many restaurants in Lisbon, not just those cheesy touristy ones, you’ll often be served bread and olives before the meal. Coming from North America, where bread before a meal is usually served without charge, I assumed it was free. It wasn’t, and although the cost wasn’t expensive, I was surprised to see a cost associated with something to me without asking for it.

Thinking that this one restaurant experience was a fluke, we had dinner the next night and experienced the same charge when we got the bill after digging into the olives and bread. I finally looked this up, wondering if this was something that just kept happening to me and found that it’s prevalent. If you aren’t interested in paying for the bread and olives, say no, before they place them down on your table, and they will take them away without incident. But sometimes you’re starving, and bread and olives sound like just the ticket to tide you over before dinner is served. If that’s the case, ask the server for the cost, so you know what to expect and make your decisions.

7. Not Jumping in an Uber

In a city as hilly as Lisbon, you can quickly get tired. Many times people might think of hailing a cab to get home after a long day but often are afraid to in case they take a long, unnecessary route to get to their destination to run up the meter. Uber, on the other hand, is all priced upfront. We loved taking Uber in Lisbon since we were a group of four, and often, taking an Uber was much, much cheaper than for each of us to pay for a ticket on the metro.

The Ubers we took were all super clean, the drivers extremely friendly, and some would even give us a little tour of the buildings we were passing by! A trip from the airport via Uber costs less than 10 euros (leaving from the departure terminal), including our luggage. Ubers make it so you can take that trip up to a miradouro (lookout point) before sunset, even if your legs are tired and there isn’t a nearby metro station. It’s a great way to make the most of your time in the city without tiring yourself going up and down those hills.

8. Forgetting to a Buy a Transport Card

You can buy these little reloaded metro cards at all the metro stations in Lisbon. They only cost 0.50 euros; you can load them up with as much money as you think you’ll need. This makes getting on and off trains a breeze, with no need to buy separate tickets or calculate the fares. Simply tap on and off, and the money will automatically be calculated and removed from the total on your card. The line-ups for train tickets can get long, especially at stations like Rossio, where the trains depart for Sintra. Having a swipe card will mean you don’t need to line up either at the ticket booth or electronic machines, savings yourself what can be a lot of time!

9. Paying for Overpriced Fado Shows

Fado is a form of Portuguese singing which originated in the 1820s in Portugal’s urban cafes and pubs. It is notable for being profoundly melancholic, and despite these sad tunes, it’s one of the most popular things for tourists to seek out when in Lisbon. There are signs all over for tickets to Fado dinners & show experiences. Most of these places are super overpriced, and the food is incredibly subpar, especially when there is SO MUCH great food for cheap you can find in this city.

There are plenty of amazing places to see real Fado around the town, which won’t cost you an arm and a leg. A Tasca do Chico puts on FREE Fado music Mondays and Wednesdays in the Bairro Alto district. The restaurant can get SUPER crowded, so get there EARLY! Fado is a late-night experience, so expect performances to start around 9 pm and go till 1 or 2 am! Unlike other places which might charge a cover fee, this restaurant doesn’t. That being said, since you need to show up so early to save yourself a table, it’s only right to order some drinks and perhaps a few bits of tapas to make your time there worth it for the servers and staff. But this cost is far and away cheaper than what you’ll find at the Prix-fix places.

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10. Not Tasting Ginjinha on the Street

Ginjinha or Ginja is a Portuguese liqueur from fermented sour cherries blended with sugar and cinnamon. You’ll see dozens of shops selling and advertising this sweet treat. And despite its prevalence in tourist hubs, you’ll be surprised to know it isn’t just a touristy thing. You’ll see old ladies sipping it outside ancient bars and men grabbing one quick glug before heading to dinner.

Ginjinha has been around since the Romans brought cherries to Lisbon in the 5th century. The same family has run many of the tiny closet-sized shops which sell shots of Ginjinha for multiple generations. Here, they serve just one thing; Ginjinha. You can order it two ways, with or without the fruit. (I found the fruit to be SUPER strong, so I preferred it without). You can also get it served in chocolate cups, but this was actually a modern-day invention by the Portuguese chocolate manufacturers who made a chocolate Ginjinha cup at one of their conventions, and it seemed to catch on from there. Still a delicious way to have Ginjinha but not as authentic.

Every different brand tastes a bit different. Some are more strong, and some are a little sweeter and wine-like. The little shots cost just 1-2 euros, so it’s easy to grab one wherever you see them sold to find your favourite.

11. Not Being Aware of your Surroundings

Locals we met with mentioned to us time and time again to beware of pickpockets. Having been to Barcelona without incident, I employed many of my same techniques, most importantly of which is to be AWARE. If you’re in a crowd, always be sure to have a hand on your bag or, at the very least, we are conscious of who gets close to you. You don’t need to be paranoid about it, but there is always an element of catching people off their guard, which is when pickpockets make their move. If someone seems too nice or if you have a bad feeling about something, go with your gut and just remove yourself from the situation.

Tourist trams are one of the worst places for pickpocketing since space is at a premium, and thieves do most of their business when you’re too busy taking pictures to notice. There are plenty of great theft-proof bags you can buy, but a solution I found was to buy a tiny lock which latches the two zippers of my back bag together, rendering it theft-proof. Always keep your bag on your lap at an outdoor restaurant or cafe, not on the floor or on an empty chair where it can quickly be snatched up. I didn’t feel like there was ever a moment when I felt unsafe or vulnerable, but I also felt that knowing these things and taking precautions would be much safer than if I had gone about my business without considering it.

12. Not Remembering to Reapply Sunscreen in the Afternoon

The sun is the strongest in Portugal between noon and 3 pm, and you’d be surprised that late in the afternoon is when you’ll actually feel the warmest. Even at 6 pm, the sun was beating down on my shoulders, hotter than it felt at 2 pm! I’m someone who puts on sunscreen in the morning and forgets to reapply, which resulted in a mighty sunburn on this trip. Painful enough to teach me a good lesson! Around when you have lunch, it’s always a good idea to grab some sunscreen out of your bag and reapply for the rest of the afternoon.

During the afternoon, when the sun is high in the sky, and the temperature is at its hottest, try to schedule some indoor fun if you find it unbearable. Bring a good hat (which won’t blow off in the high winds which Lisbon is famous for) and drink plenty of water. Obviously, this advice is moot if you’re travelling during the winter months, but even in the springtime, it can get surprisingly hot, so don’t hesitate to slather on that sun protection or you’ll be left like I was, having to get after-sun cream from a very judgmental pharmacist.

13. Only Sampling the Belém Pastéis de Nata

Portuguese custard tarts are one of the most popular things tourists come to eat while visiting Lisbon. They are a centuries-old recipe passed down from monks in monasteries, and one of the most popular places to try them is in Belém, where they originated the recipe. While the Belém tart shop is undoubtedly the most popular and historical, there are many other places to try all over Lisbon. It would be a shame only to try this one location when there are so many others you can try.

Give that diet a break while in Lisbon, and eat to your heart’s content! You can find these “pastéis de nata” in trendy cafes and tiny unknown bakeries hidden around quiet street corners. The line at the Belém location sometimes stretches for blocks, and although it might give you a good idea of the benchmark flavours of the original, modern chefs as well as enterprising home bakers, have developed their own versions, which might be even more appealing to you! They also sell these pastries at the grocery store; you never know where to find your favourite.

14. Not Learning How to Order Coffee

If you’re anything like me, no morning starts off on the right foot without a nice cup of coffee. I’ve learned from travelling worldwide that ordering coffee is never the same in one country as in the next. , I managed to order my coffee in Lisbon just fine, but all my friends who were travelling with me had great trouble ordering. Cafés function in a completely different way in Lisbon than they do in North America. In Lisbon, most coffee shops aren’t a place to have a seat, pop open your laptop, and relax with Wi-Fi. No, in Lisbon, cafés are where workers order a shot of espresso and down it at the bar before quickly heading off.

There are no signs across the counter with menu options. It’s up to you to give your order to the barista to get what you want. To get something similar to a latte, you should order “Um galão,” and for a coffee with milk, ask for “uma meia de leite,” which is half milk, half coffee. You’ll almost always be given a side of sugar since it seems like the Portuguese never drink black coffee. To order a standard espresso, ask for “uma bica,” a Portuguese word only used in Lisbon.

If you’re looking for something similar to an Americano ask for “um abatanado, “and if you want milk with it, ask for “um abatanado com um pouco de leite.” Cafes in Lisbon are places people pop in and out of all day. Instead of getting one colossal coffee in the morning, you’re more likely to be served a little coffee, which means you can visit more cafes throughout the day!

Let me know if you found anything on your last trip to Lisbon, you’d recommend travellers avoid or be aware of! Or, if you’re planning a trip, let me know anything else you’re curious about for your first time in Portugal!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post 14 Tourist Mistakes NOT to Make on your First Trip to Lisbon first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.