This tour will take you around some of Prague’s most famous streets and some off-the-beaten-track neighbourhoods. This is one of the most comprehensive guides to Prague’s street signs, and I have done my best to give you some hints at what the signs symbolize and where they can be found in the city! The tour has two parts: the Old Town and Malá Strana (or the Lesser Quarter). Let’s start with our guide to Prague’s Mala Strana House Signs.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of the Malá Strana Lesser Town House Signs Tour
2. History
3. Nerudova Street
4. Úvoz 
5. Vlašská Street 

Map of the Malá Strana Lesser Town House Signs Tour

History

Identifying houses with symbol signage is an antiquated practice that dates back to ancient Egypt. The oldest house sign, made with stone relief, was documented in Ptolemaic Egypt (Giza), dating back to the 3rd century BC. Hundreds of years ago, being able to read was a skill only the nobles or academics possessed. Since most citizens could not read, craftsmen used symbols to identify their businesses so people could find goods and services around town. 

The oldest house signs in Prague date back to the early 14th century. While the first house signs were used to identify occupations, later symbols were created to distinguish the surname of the home’s owner. This system was maintained until 1770 when Bohemia finally adopted the official numbering system. It was one of the last European cities to make the change, thereby preserving so many of these signs for posterity.

The oldest house signs were made of stone and carved with various reliefs. In the baroque age, these signs were made of stucco and plaster. Baroque designs were also painted onto plaster cartouches or tablets and placed onto the facade. Finally, in the later 18th century, the signs were made of metal or wood, more resilient against the elements. These signs were also sometimes hung off the sides of the buildings or placed on boards so that the signs could be more easily replaced should the house be sold off. Because there were only so many different symbols that could be used, sign makers would employ different coloured combinations. This would ensure people could tell the difference between establishments.

The Prague House Sign Numbering System

Prague went through two different numbering systems when the city was enumerated. You can still see both of these numbering systems identified on the front of each house. On each house, two number plates are printed; one on a red plate and the other on a blue plate. The numbers in red are called “descriptive” numbers and date back to 1770. These red numbers seem placed haphazardly as the numbers don’t proceed sequentially from house to house. This is because when the soldiers were designating house numbers, they allocated the next number in the sequence to the newest house built. They did not base the numbers on the following geographic location. So even if your house was far from the previous house on the street, you’d receive the next number in the sequence. 

The blue numbers, however, are instead based on geographic orientation. These were installed when the city was renumbered in the late 19th century. Interestingly, they kept the old red numbering system up despite its confusing nature—another quirky bit of charm which makes Prague such an interesting city.

Maltézské náměsti 3/474, At the Golden Snake

A gold merchant once owned the house of the Golden Snake. Since snakes symbolize transformation, any goldsmith who could turn rock into a beautiful piece of jewellery would have been drawn to the snake’s image. And, of course, it needed to be painted in gold! The house dates back to the Middle Ages, but the current facade is from 1853, designed by František Wolf.

Karmelitská 379/18, House at the Golden Hands

Karmelitská Street was built in the Middle Ages behind the walls of Mala Strana, or “Lesser Town.” The name comes from the Barefoot Carmelite Order, which owned the land. The house at #18 on Karmelitská was once owned by the Thun-Hohenstein family. This noble family has a strong connection with the Masonic order. Many people say that Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart came to Prague because of their influence. The house symbol on the front of the portal to the house depicts a three-handed handshake, giving the place its name, House at the Golden Hands. A three-handed handshake is so strange that many suspect it is a secret handshake. Although I don’t know how “secret” it can be when it’s being revealed right on the front of the building.

Prokopska 10, the Little Black Horse

Prokopská Street was named after the church of St. Procopius, which was founded in the 13th century along this lane. In the 18th century, the church was transformed into a residential house by architect Ignác Jan Nepomuk Palliardi. The home at #10 is known as the Little Black House, or “U černého konička,” and was built in the 16th century. Above the doorway into the home is a little rudimentarily carved horse hopping over a hillside. Horses generally represent a driving force, but black horses represent a more mysterious meaning or shadow self—a very ominous symbol for a household. Today the house serves as a lovely apartment complex.

Dražického nám. 76/12, The Three Ostriches

Located right at the mouth of the Charles Bridge is U tří pštrosů or the Hotel of The Three Ostriches. The original house was built in 1597 as an old medieval public house. Despite the age of the home, the painting on the front of the facade is fantastically preserved! Jan Fux, an exotic feather trader, bought the house in the 16th century.

The Ostriches on the facade represent the gift that he gave to Charles IV for his coronation. In 1714 the building was purchased by Armenian entrepreneur Gorgos Hatalah who opened the city’s first coffee shop in the Three Ostriches.

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Mostecká #4, The House of St. Saviour 

Mostecká Street was an important part of the former Royal Route. The Royal Route was the pathway that the royal procession followed during the King’s coronation. So many houses along the road were own by prominent Czech nobles. The home at #4 was originally two smaller houses built in the gothic period. In the Renaissance, the interiors were joined together, but the exterior still retains two separate facades. 

The one on the right is the House of St. Saviour. This home maintains a baroque appearance. The beautiful house on the right is painted in a gorgeous bright baby blue. Set into the portal above the door is a small niche with the statue of St. Saviour. Surrounding the niche is a frame carved into the form of the acanthus plant. The acanthus is a plant that symbolizes enduring life.

Mostecká #4, At the Bear and Chain

The house on the left is the house At the Bear and Chain. In contrast, the pale yellow building on the left maintains its simpler renaissance facade. On top of the house is a relief of a bear with a golden chain. Legend has it that a rich widow fell in love with a bear tamer, but he died before the two could be wed. The window had the bear made in honour of her lover. She added the golden chain, which represented a golden wedding ring, encircling the bear forever. 

Mostecká #11, At the Black Eagle

This gorgeously decorated baroque exterior hides within a medieval house. The home was made for the court of the Archbishop of Mayence. Rich sculptural decorations and wrought grilles cover the entire facade. Above the second floor’s main windows are two great black eagles, which give the house its name, “At the Black Eagle.” Eagles are an imperial symbol. As the house was made for an archbishop, the title seems fitting. 

On the very top of the exterior is a Baroque statue of St. Florian. St. Florian was an officer in the Roman army in the 3rd century but betrayed his order and freed dozens of enslaved Christians. When caught, he was flayed and drowned with a giant stone tied around his neck. He is the patron saint of firefighters, and his statue is often placed atop houses for protection against fires.

Mostecká #20, At the Three Golden Rings 

This pale house with a fading classical facade displays three golden rings intertwined above the doorway. The three rings seem to form a chainlink. It is said that the symbol for the house At the Three Golden Rings was created by a loving father after these three daughters were married and left the nest. It was a way for him to keep them in his heart forever. But other people suspect that the three rings represented the mystical circle of life: birth, maturity and death. This symbol was often used by the Mother Goddess cult, and perhaps this was where their coven would meet.

Malostranské nám. 4, At the Golden Cluster

Malostranské nám. or “Lesser Town Square,” was the medieval marketplace for Lower Town citizens. Here everything from social events to executions would take place. Opposite the church, on the corner of the building at #4 is a beautiful carving poking out from the stone. It shows the large, swollen face of a man (most likely Baucaus) and below him is a large bunch of golden grapes. Giving the house the name “At the Golden Cluster.” Baucus’s image and the grapes indicate that this building was most likely used as a banquet hall and today serves as a rowdy beer hall.

Tomášská #4, The Golden Stag

Tomášská Street was named after the Church of St. Thomas and the Augustinian monastery, founded in 1285 along this lane. At #4 we find the great house of the Golden Stag. The house was built for moneylender Jan Kašpar Friedrich in 1726. On the front of the house, we see the large sculpture of Saint Hubert. While the sculpture seems normal enough, look twice, and you’ll spot a phantom hand emerging from the belly of the stag. This, as per the story, is how Christ appeared to Saint Hubert while he was hunting in Ardeen’s forest.

Tomášská 12, the Golden Pretzel

In the 17th century, a famous baker Kryštof Krob bought this house and installed this sign on top, which symbolizes the bakers guild, a Golden Pretzel. Pretzels have been used a symbols for bakers since medieval times. In 610, a monk-baker invented the pretzel when he was trying to come up with a reward for children who learned their prayers. He twisted the dough, so it looked like the formation of arms crossing your chest in prayer. He called it “pretiola,” Latin for “little reward.”

Valdštejnská Street 8, House of the Three Storks

Valdštejnská Street was named after a small settlement of Písek people who moved to Prague. In this area is where you’ll find the House of the Three Storks. The house dates back to the 14th century and still contains remains of its Renaissance interior. The storks represent carriers of good news, which was a popular symbol for hospitality. The house was mentioned in a famous poem by writer Nazım Hikmet for his lover, who sadly died. It goes, “We used to meet at the Three Storks Restaurant in Prague. Now I am standing by the road with my eyes shut: You are far from me, the length of one death. You are a distorted image in a broken mirror”. 

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Valdštejnské 20, the Golden Sun

Valdštejnské #20, or the House of the Golden Sun, is now the Comenius Pedagogical Museum dedicated to Czech education history. The building in which they are located is from the Renaissance, built-in 1540. One of the house owners was the guardian of the royal silverware for Rudolf II, Havel Oberšvender. Rudolf was obsessed with alchemy. As such, it is no surprise to see the symbol of the golden sun on the doorway, a famous symbol in alchemy.

Nerudova Street

Nerudova street has perhaps the largest concentration of old house signs in Prague. The street is part of the former Royal Route. Nerudova street was created during the new founding of the Lesser Town under the rule of Přemysl Otakar II. In 1267, it formed the main axis of the western and eastern roads of the Lesser Town. The street gets its name from Czech writer and poet Jan Neruda, who lived in various houses along the street during his time in Prague.

Nerudova 2, At the Black Eagle

The house At the Black Eagle is a hodgepodge of architectural styles. It was initially a gothic house with Renaissance stone portals but now bares a baroque and classical exterior. The facade contains richly painted sgraffito and stucco decorations. The giant black eagle which sits above the doorway has its wings spread wide. On his tail is a small gold caduceus symbol, which marks it as an old pharmacy. The pharmacy was located here as early as the 15th century and still serves the public as a pharmacy to this day!

Nerudova 6, At the Red Eagle 

Eagles are one of the most popular symbols along the street as only a few stops down, we find ourselves at another house which bears the symbol of an eagle. This one is red, and instead of being a carving, it is a fresco painted onto the building. The house At the Red Eagle is a gorgeous example of refined rococo designs from the 18th century. The symbol of the Red Eagle is placed in a small frame, held on either side by two beautiful angels. The eagle sits perched on a tall mound with its wings outstretched, showing off its dominance.

The eagle has been known to be a symbol of regeneration, much like the Phoenix. When these birds reach the end of their lives, they set themselves on fire and are reborn again. Rebirth was an essential part of alchemy and is thought to indicate magic taking place in this house.

Nerudova 12, At the Three Fiddles

This gothic house At the Three Fiddles with a baroque facade was once the home of three families of famous violin makers. The most notorious violin maker who lived and worked here was T. Edlinger. Edlinger was even the founder of Prague’s violin-making school. Unsurprisingly their house symbol is three violins set against a sea of blue and golden stars. 

Nerudova 14, Valkounsky House 

After seeing so many houses with the same symbols, it’s so exciting to discover something new! On the front of this house is a carving of the creature Medusa with a head full of golden snakes! This house was once owned by Knight Bohuchval Valkoun from Adlar from the beginning of the 17th century. Originally it was built in the 16th century, but after the great fire of 1541, it had to be torn down and reconstructed. As mentioned before, snakes are a symbol of transformation and are popular with goldsmiths. A famed goldsmith bought the house in the 18th century, and it was he who added the house symbol of Medusa. After all, the only thing that is more impressive than one golden snake is a head full of them!

Nerudova 16, At the Golden Goblet

In 1705, the famous Italian-Czech architect Jan Blažej Santini Michel bought this house. He called it “U zlaté číše,” which translate into “At the Golden Goblet” after the Goblet which is carved onto the front of the building. Before Santini, master goldsmiths Jan Schumann lived here in 1660. The Golden Chalice is the symbol of the goldsmith’s guild. The Chalice also symbolized the Holy Grail. The holy grail was thought to be a cup that would bring the drinker eternal life and is also known as the Philosopher’s Stone. So many alchemists also use the Chalice as a symbol of their craft.

Nerudova 11, At the Red Lamb

“U Červeného Beránka” or House At the Red Lamb is a neo-baroque house built in the late 1800s. Above the doorway into the house is a large sculpture of a gentle red lamb walking atop a lush mound of green grass. Lambs symbolize innocence and are often associated with Jesus’ sacrifice (i.e., the sacrificial lamb). Red is also a colour that is frequently associated with martyrdom and the blood of Christ. Since the house is dedicated to sacrificing, it is no surprise we also find a painting of the Madonna atop the house’s facade. 

Nerudova 26, At the Golden Eagle

The house At the Golden Eagle is a Renaissance home located in the spot where the old royal moat previously ran through. The house belonged to a family of builders, the Aostalis, from 1549 onwards. These architects were responsible for several royal buildings, including the Ball Games Hall in Hradčany. Unlike the previous eagles we have seen, which have their wings spread wide, this eagle is perched with closed wings. Closed winged eagles are not a very common symbol as an eagle with closed wings symbolizes it being trussed up or bound. Perhaps this is a subtle message from the owner that he was bound up by something and not allowed to spread his wings and be free.

Nerudova 25, The Donkey in the Cradle

The house at #25, called the Donkey in the Cradle, is the former residence of alchemist Edward Kelley. The house is originally a gothic house but with a renaissance and baroque facade. In addition to Kelley, the house was also home to Jan Neruda and his family, who lived and owned a store here before moving up the street. Above the doorway was once a beautiful fresco of the Birth of Jesus, but it has faded badly over time. Today only the donkey and the baby cradle are visible. But the donkey has strong connections to the alchemical world, so it is no surprise that it would find itself in a prominent position on the house of the previous court alchemist. 

The first historical evidence of alchemy was in Egypt, and it is said that God Isis was the first alchemist. In Egpyt, Lucius, a pompous and vain magician, was misusing his magic and accidentally turned himself into a donkey. He toiled for years as an ass and finally succumbed to asking for help by praying to Isis. Isis told him that he could only become human again if he ate a garland of roses during Isis’ holy procession. An act of great submission. He did so, and after transforming back into his human body, Lucious became one of Isis’s most loyal devotees. The story is one of humility and how dangerous alchemy can be if it is not respected.

Nerudova 27, At the Golden Key

Initially, a Renaissance house, the house At the Golden Key, portrays lovely Baroque and Classicist adaptations. The house sign is a richly decorated golden key set in a baroque cartouche that dates back to 1844. Keys are thought to represent enlightenment, and golden keys represent the power that allows someone to be worthy of entering into eternal life. As the philosophers stone was the alchemical discovery that would purportedly restore eternal life, one can only imagine if this house symbol was a clue to the Philosopher’s Stone’s secrets.

Nerudova 28, At the Golden Wheel

The house At the Golden Wheel was an old Renaissance house built where the old moat divided Hradčany and the Prague Castle. The golden wheel on the front of the house dates back to 1624, in the height of the alchemical craze! The symbol of the golden wheel represents a stage in the magnum opus, the process by which lead purportedly could be turned into gold. The wheel symbolizes time, as the cosmos and position of the earth and the sun were of the utmost importance in alchemy. Not only did all the chemical processes need to be done right, but you had to do them at the right time of year for the spells to succeed. 

Nerudova 34, the Golden Horseshoe 

The beautiful renaissance house at #34 is a stunning building. It is painted pale blue with dark blue trimmings. Above the doorway is a cartouche with the portrait of a St. Wenceslas riding a horse. Just below the cartouche is a golden horseshoe hanging off the house, giving the building the name the Golden Horseshoe. The horseshoe itself dates back to 1559. Look closely at the painting, and you’ll notice a real minature golden horseshoe sticking out from the picture. The man in the portrait is handsome and well dressed. As he trots along with his well-groomed horse, we can imagine that this sign might have been an example of early advertising for the blacksmiths who worked on Nerudova. The painting reflected the old Czech saying that “he who had his horse properly shod arrived safely.”

Nerudova 33, Bretfeld Palace

The Bretfeld Palace was originally an old baroque burgher house. The house was owned by Josef of Bretfeld, who was an avid collector and worldly host. He acquired a vast collection of books and paintings to entice people to visit his grand palace, where he held lavish parties and concerts. The court saw guests such as Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Giacomo Casanova. To spot the palace, look out for the mint and moss green coloured building with beautiful stucco reliefs on the facade. At the very top of the facade is the house symbol, a relief of St. Nicholas. St. Nicolas is the patron saint of sailors and pawnbrokers. I can imagine it was the pawnbrokers which Bretfeld was partial to as he would frequent their establishments to acquire so many of his treasures.

Nerudova 41, At the Red Lion

At house #41, a painting with a beautiful red lion is set against the red and white baroque facade, which marks the house At the Red Lion. Although the facade was made in 1726, the origins of the house date back to 1608, the date marked in the portal above the entryway. The relief depicts a great red lion rearing up on his hind legs, holding a golden chalice in his hand. The Chalice is thought to contain the elixir of life. The colour red in alchemy indicates the red matter left on the alchemical pot’s bottom after the sublimation step. Sublimation is the third step in creating the philosopher’s stone.

Neurdova 43, At the Green Lobster

One of my favourite house signs, a cheery green lobster, can be found here at #43, the Green Lobster house. Not only is the lobster a very different and surprising creature to see, but I also love the fact it is painted green. It really makes it stand out after seeing so many house signs painted red or gold. The lobster is a symbol of transformation, as crustations shed their skin to grow. Lobsters are a symbol of emotional growth, as we must leave things behind to grow ourselves.

Nerudova 47, the House of Two Suns

The Czech poet Jan Neruda spent much of his life on this street, living inside the house at #47, called the house At the Two Suns. Neruda’s father owned a tobacco shop here from 1845 to 1857. The house was built in the Renaissance but now bears a beautiful pale yellow with stuccos decorative baroque facade. The renaissance portal has still been preserved along with the house sign from the same period. 

The house is named after the relief of the two suns, which are located above the doorway. The suns are painted in gold, and each has a human face carved upon them. The faces look in opposite directions, keeping an eye on the street outside. Below them are the letters “IHS,” which is Jesus’ monogram. Just below the insignia is a flaming heart. In alchemy, the sun represents perfection. Alchemists strived to turn iron into gold. They were obsessed with gold as they felt it was a means of recreating the sun’s brilliance here on earth.

Nerudova 49, At the White swan

At number 49, we find the gothic house At the White Swan. Although the building’s exterior was renovated in the baroque era, the white swan’s stucco relief dates back to 1608. Swans are perhaps one of the most prevalent symbols of purity. In alchemy, black and white represent good and evil, or sinful and pure. The alchemist’s journey of transforming raw, dark material into its pure white form is like the sinner’s journey of corruption to piety. With the latter stage being represented by the beautiful white Swan.

Nerudova 51, the Little Green Stag

The house at #51 Nerudova has a simple jumping stag carved onto the front of the house. Although it is known as the Little Green Stag, the green colour has long since faded off the facade. ‘U Zeleného jelínka’ was a medieval house which was rebuilt in 1819. Although the building doesn’t have the same flash as the rest of the places on the street, it hides within its walls some of the most important structural elements from the medieval period in Prague. 

In alchemy, the final tincture in transforming base metals into gold was often symbolized as a stag. Stags represent masculinity, and unicorns represent femininity. When they meet in the forest, their unity is thought to represent the soul’s final transformation process, aka the last step in creating the philosopher’s stone.

Úvoz 

As we continue along Nerudova street, it swiftly changes into Úvoz street as we start up the hillside’s steeper part. The name ‘Úvoz’ is a modern name for the road, which comes from 1870. Before this street was called Hluboká, and before that, it was known as Strahovská cesta. ‘Úvoz’ translates into ‘Ravine‘ as this part of the street used to be a ravine cut through Lesser Quarter. You’ll find some of the most historic houses and signs along the road as this part of the city was spared from some of the fires that broke out in the rest of Prague.

Úvoz 4, At the Three Red Roses

The incredible house At the Three Red Roses at the start of Úvoz street was a baroque home from the 17th century. Giving the place its name is the large fresco of the Madonna on the front of the house. The fresco is framed in a beautifully carved stucco decoration with three red roses on the bottom. The rose is an essential symbol of the Virgin Mary as one of her holy titles is the Mystic Rose. If you look closely, you’ll notice these roses have no thorns as Mary is often called the “rose without thorns.” Many people believe that roses grew in the garden of Eden but without thorns. Only when Adam and Eve sinned did the roses grow thorns. And yet Mary, who is the most honourable symbol of purity, is still a rose without sin.

Úvoz 6, At the Three Axes

‘U tři seker’ or House At the Three Axes has one of the few original house signs in Prague. The baroque house is covered in wonderfully detailed stucco decorations. In the central cartouche on the front is the house symbol, which has the small axes interwoven. Traditionally axes were a symbol of the carpentry guild as the house was once the court carpenter’s residence. Today the house is occupied by a fantastic cafe.

Úvoz 14, At the Three Red Hearts

The theme of threes continues along the street at house #14, At the Three Red Hearts. This Renaissance townhouse with Baroque and Classical facade has another one of the oldest preserved house signs. The three hearts positioned to make the shape of a triangle has both a secular and spiritual meaning. The spiritual number of three represents the holy trinity; the father, son and holy ghost. The hearts are set against a backdrop that resembles fire, turning the icon into an image of the sacred heart, which burns with divine light. The secular meaning of the three hearts represents indecisive affection, like a love triangle. 

Úvoz 22, At the House of the Mirror

At the House of the Mirror at #22 on the street has a spectacular carving above the portal into the home. The baroque facade was built in 1730 and featured a stunning relief of a Madonna holding her baby Jesus. She is surrounded by a beautiful stucco frame covered in gold fillagree. You might be looking for a mirror on the building, seeing as it is in the name, but you won’t find any. Instead, the mirror is more symbolic. The little baby Jesus is holding in his hand the ‘Scales of Justice.’ This symbolizes that you are meant to see yourself through God’s eyes, like a mirror but live your life by the standards of Jesus.

Úvoz 24, At the Stone Column

This old renaissance house At the Stone Column has a bizarre addition, which gives it its name. In 1697 the house was owned by Czech painter Kristián Luna. Stuck on the side of the house, complete out of place and not incorporated into the structure at all, is a giant stone column with a small statuette of the Virgin Mary on the top of the column. Despite being called “stone,” the column is actually made of stucco with a wooden frame. The column was added to the house in 1706 and is a copy of the Marian column, located in the old town square (although the original was destroyed in 1918).

On either corner of the house are two stone busts. One depicts a woman with the word “luna” or moon underneath. The other is a man with the word “sol” or the sun underneath. Both of the busts face either direction. They are perfectly positioned so that the other is always in shadow when one is in the sunlight.

Vlašská Street 

Vlašská Street is home to various large royal palaces. The area was settled in the 13th century, but it wasn’t until the 16th century when the district began to flourish. A series of wealthy Italians moved into the area and bought up several large land plots for their grand palaces. Soon enough, it was one of the most sought after neighbourhoods in Mala Strana.

Vlašská 26, At the Black Elephant

Dům U Černého slona or House at the Black Elephant is one of the oldest homes on the street, dating back to the 13th-century. The house sign on the front of the medieval facade is beautiful. In the middle ages, elephants were known to imbue moral messages of kindness and devotion. They are also commonly associated with wisdom. Clearly, whoever lived here wanted everyone to know how wise he was. And what a treat it would have been for residents of the street to gaze upon such an exotic creature as they were on their way to the market or just off on a stroll.

Vlašská 24/330, At the Three White Crosses

The build on the corner of the street is a renaissance house with a Classicist 19th-century reconstruction. You can find the house sign between the 1st and 2nd floor, which gives it the name At the Three White Crosses. The symbolism of three crosses symbolizes Calvary. The highest cross in the group represents Jesus’ crucifixion. The other two on either side represent the two thieves that were hung alongside him. Calvary is often used to denote an experience of usually intense mental suffering. 

Vlašska 9/355, At the Three Red Roses

Down a small lane just off Vlasska street is the yellow facade of the house At the Three Red Roses. The house was built in 1612 when it was purchased by the Italian stonemason and sculptor Antonio Brocco. Brocco was responsible for the creation of the Singing Fountain in Queen Anne’s Summer Palace. In Greek and Roman mythology, roses are often linked to Aphrodite, the Goddess of Love. 

Vlašská 2, At the Golden Scales

“U zlaté váhy” or the House of the Golden Scales dates back to the 16th century. The symbol of the house is located above the green doorway. While a symbol for justice might seem out of place at an ordinary residence, a tawdry tale goes along with this symbol. Legend has it that a beautiful young woman was engaged to be wed to one of the wealthy Italians who lived on the lane. He had a bad reputation for cheating on her and would frequently go away on long trips where he could have his dalliances. He never returned after one such trip, but the poor girl waited for him for years until age turned her into an old and undesirable woman. 

When her fiance finally returned, she found he had forgotten all about her. Enraged, the now old woman killed her lover. She returned home and placed the golden scales on her door before killing herself. The scales acted as a kind of suicide note indicating that she felt his death was the just punishment for his crimes and her own death the punishment for her actions as well.

Břetislavova 8/305, At the Golden Axe

At the end of Vlasska street, turn up the street parallel called Břetislavova. At #8 we find the House at the Golden Axe. The house sign on the front of the facade depicts a great double-headed eagle. The eagle is crowned with a golden crown and holds its wings around an orb and sceptre. The original house here was built in 1596 but purchased in 1685 by court painter Christian Schröder. Schröder became an inspector of the royal picture gallery in Prague and, at the same time, an imperial and royal painter. The symbol of the double-headed eagle represents the monarchy, a form of government in which the king and the queen have power over everything.

Břetislavova 307/10, Krejčovská hospoda

This old renaissance townhouse was purchased in 1615 by the Masters of the Tailor’s guild. The terra-cotta baroque exterior dates back to 1723. In the center of the portal into the house is a stucco cartouche with a painting of the Coronation of the Virgin Mary.

This brings us to the end of the tour in Mala Strana. If you didn’t take the tour in the Old Town you can head back across the Vlatava River to the eastern side of town. Feel free to end the tour here and continue to explore the wonders of the Mala Strana and continue the second part of the tour another day! Let me know in the comment what your favourite house sign was or what your house sign would be if you were to have one.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

Resources:

Pamatkovykatalog | Kralovskacesta | Wiki Commons (imagery)

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This tour will take you around some of Prague’s most famous streets and some off-the-beaten-track neighbourhoods. This is one of the most comprehensive guides to Prague’s street signs, and I have done my best to give you some hints at what the signs symbolize and where they can be found in the city! The tour has two parts: the Old Town and Malá Strana (or the Lesser Quarter). Let’s start with our guide to Prague’s Old Town House Signs.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Prague's Old Town House Signs
2. History
3. House Sign Designs
4. Prague's House Sign System
5. Týnská
6. Celetná Street
7. Staroměstské náměstí
8. Malé náměstí 
9. Karlova Street
10. Husova Street

Map of Prague’s Old Town House Signs

History

Identifying houses with symbol signage is an antiquated practice that dates back to ancient Egypt. The oldest house sign, made with stone relief, was documented in Ptolemaic Egypt (Giza), dating back to the 3rd century BC. Hundreds of years ago, being able to read was a skill only the nobles or academics possessed. Since most citizens could not read, craftsmen used symbols to identify their businesses so people could find goods and services around town. 
The oldest house signs in Prague, a city steeped in history, date back to the early part of the 14th century. These signs, initially used to identify occupations, later evolved to distinguish the surname of the home’s owner. This system remained in place until 1770, when Bohemia finally adopted the official numbering system. Prague’s late adoption of this system preserved many of these signs, providing a tangible link to our past.

House Sign Designs

The oldest house signs were made of stone and carved with various reliefs. In the baroque age, these signs were made of stucco and plaster. Baroque designs were also painted onto plaster cartouches or tablets and placed onto the facade. Finally, in the later 18th century, the signs were made of metal or wood, more resilient against the elements. These signs were also sometimes hung off the sides of the buildings or placed on boards so that the signs could be more easily replaced should the house be sold off. Because there were only so many different symbols that could be used, sign makers would employ different coloured combinations. This would ensure people could tell the difference between establishments.

Prague’s House Sign System

Prague went through two different numbering systems when the city was enumerated. You can still see both of these numbering systems identified on the front of each house. On each house, two number plates are printed; one on a red plate and the other on a blue plate. The numbers in red are called “descriptive” numbers and date back to 1770. These red numbers seem placed haphazardly as the numbers don’t proceed sequentially from house to house. This is because when the soldiers were designating house numbers, they allocated the following number in the sequence to the newest house built. They did not base the numbers on the following geographic location. So even if your house was far from the previous house on the street, you’d receive the following number in the sequence. 

The blue numbers, however, are instead based on geographic orientation. These were installed when the city was renumbered in the late 19th century. Interestingly, they kept the old red numbering system up despite its confusing nature—another quirky bit of charm which makes Prague such an exciting city.

Týnská

Týnská is one of the oldest streets in the Old Town of Prague. It is located behind the Church of Týn, where it derives its name. The road was initially occupied by foreign merchants. Týnská was located close to the nearby customs office, where merchants had to pay fees and taxes for anything imported. This process would often be quite lengthy, so the merchants needed a place to stay while they waited for their taxes to be calculated. And so the street quickly became a hotbed of inns and lodging houses for the merchants.

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Týnská 632/10, The Three Feathers

The Three Feathers at #10 Týnská is one of the oldest in the lane, built in the 13th century. From 1405 until the 1600s, it was used as a brewery. The Three Feathers represented on the house symbol are a reference to the crest of John of Luxembourg. John of Luxembourg was the King of Bohemia in the 14th century. Since the feathers were drawn from the royal crest, we can assume that perhaps the brewery would have been linked to the court and maybe was their official brewer.

Týnská 6, The Golden Ring

In the center of the house at #6 is a giant Golden Ring, installed in the 17th century. But the house had stood here since the 14th century when it operated as a beer hall. The legend around the ring states that one of the old town ghosts dropped it while passing through the street on one of their nightly haunts. When the beer hall owner discovered it, she hung the ring above her door. Rings, as a closed circle symbol, provide mystical protection against evil. Being a beerhall owner in the Middle Ages was undoubtedly dangerous, so a little bit of good luck couldn’t hurt. The legend was so popular that by the 17th century, the new owner dedicated the name of the house and the newly created house sign to the Golden Ring.

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Celetná Street

Before heading into the old town square, we quickly detour over to Celetná Street. Celetná is named after a famous bread baked in this area during the Middle Ages. As bakeries fed the entire town, they became one of the most important places in the city, like our modern-day grocery stores. Whether you were a peasant, priest or prince, everyone came here to get their daily loaf. Celetná Street would find itself at the start of the Royal Route in the 14th century. The Royal Route was the pathway the king’s procession would travel along during the new royal coronations.

Celetná 29, The Golden Angel

Still a hotel to this day, the Golden Angel was built in 1788 as a private hotel. Inside these doors, some of the most illustrious guests in Prague would lie their heads. It hosted Kings and Queens for hundreds of years until it became a public hotel in the 20th century. Mozart and then Bakunin even stayed here! The house symbol features a golden angel holding a cornucopia and laurel wreath in their hands. The angel is known as a messenger of God. The gifts the angel bears in their arms represent God’s rewards for Christians who keep the faith even during hard times. 

Celetná 21, At the Red Eagle

The original house, which once stood here, was built in a high Gothic fashion in the Gothic period. The current house At the Red Eagle was built in 1725 the Classical style. For many years, the house was owned by Charles University. It was here that many of the school’s professors and faculty would have stayed while teaching on campus. Charles University was started by Emperor Charles IV. Perhaps, for this reason, the symbol on the building incorporates the imperial eagles, with the sword and spear in their hands.

Celetná Street 10, At the White Peacock

The house At the White Peacock features a stunning rococo exterior. Each one of their windows is dripping with flowery stucco decorations. The facade’s central focus is a stucco carving featuring a lovely white peacock set against a pale blue backdrop. We cannot study these symbols in Prague without talking about alchemy. The city of Prague was one of the centers of alchemical study during the 16th century. The influence of this magic spread all over town. Many people come to Prague just to explore the alchemical trail. 

Philosopher’s Stone

The creation of the Philosopher’s Stone, a concept not confined to the realms of fiction but deeply rooted in history and alchemy, is a journey that connects us to the past. Also known as the elixir of eternal life, this substance was the ultimate goal of every alchemist. To create the Philosopher’s Stone, one had to navigate through several intriguing stages. The first stage, blackening, involved working with a dark, impure base material.

The second stage, albedo, is the purification process, where an object transforms and becomes white or pure. For alchemists, peacocks represented that method of creation. Peacock feathers look like a rainbow, and in science, white light is created when all the colours of the rainbow combine. Peacocks are also known to represent protection and watchfulness. This is due to their feathers, which appear like an eye. So perhaps the alchemists are telling us that they are still watching us. 

Celetná 8, At the Black Sun

At #8 Celetná, you will find a large early Gothic house with a rather plain baroque facade. But the real star of this house is the stone archway. The large wooden doors are surrounded by a sturdy stone arch. Above the archway is the relief, which gives the place its name, “The ‘Black Sun.” As a symbol, the Black Sun would be coopted by Prague’s nazis hundreds of years later. When it was carved here, I noticed the sign had a different meaning. In the early medieval period, the ‘black sun’ referred to the first stage of the alchemy trail, called the “blackening.” It is interesting to note that the alchemical trail’s first two stages are located beside each other. No houses on this street are dedicated to the different steps, the Citrinitas or Yellow Stage and the final stage, Rubedo or the Red Stage.

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Týnská 3/629, At the Black Elephant

This sizeable gothic hotel, a silent witness to the passage of time, has stood on the corner of the street since the 14th century! Some of their wine cellars still bear the historic gothic vaultings from the original construction. For hundreds of years, the house has been an inn and hotel, a place where history was made and still welcomes guests to Prague today. Legend has it that the Czech King and Roman Emperor Charles IV was born just a few houses down, a fact that would have undoubtedly drawn a crowd of royal guests to the inn.
The hotel saw famous guests like Tycho Brahe, Mr. Vaclav Havel and Mrs. Albright. Much of the house’s original structure, including the historic house sign, has been preserved. A small stone sign with the rudimentary image of an elephant carved upon it marks the property. The elephant is nestled inside a shield topped with a small castle tower. The symbol of an elephant carrying a building is often used as a symbol of wealth.

Staroměstské náměstí

Staroměstské náměstí, or Old Town Square, was first established in the 13th century. It was used as the Old Marketplace for the citizens of Prague. As time passed, the square’s importance grew, eventually transforming the area around it into one of Prague’s most sought-after real estate locations. Some of Prague’s most unbelievable historical buildings surround the Old Town square. Within them are some great examples of House Symbols.

Staroměstské náměstí 605/13, At the Stone Bell

The house At the Stone Bell has one of Prague’s few remaining medieval facades. While many houses might be just as old, many facades have seen multiple renovations over the years. The house was once the palace of King John of Luxemburg and his wife, Eliška Premyslide. When John took power over Prague, he found the old royal palace to be uninhabitable, so he went about creating his new royal palace here in Staroměstské náměstí. While many royal palaces contained a private chapel, this house surprisingly contained two chapels! 

The house sign of the stone bell was installed in 1413. You can see it if you look closely right at the corner of the building. Bells are known to represent the voice of the angels. As the palace had two chapels, one can imagine that the King was a very spiritual man and wanted his house symbol to reflect that. It is also thought that the bell is meant to represent the arrival of King John to Bohemia.

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Staroměstské náměstí 10, Golden Cross House

This gorgeous pale pink building has one of the most fantastical house signs right on the house’s pinnacle. The building has beautiful, rich stucco designs with vines and floral motifs. The heraldic crest of Prague is set into the doorway, a three-towered castle with a soldier’s arm sticking out of the gates. But this is not the symbol we are searching for.

Up top, there is a huge relief set into the triangular tympanum. A shining golden sun with a cross in the middle acts like a beacon above the rest of the Old Town Square buildings. This cross highly resembles the military design of the Star of the Grand Cross of the Iron Cross, the highest military decoration of the Kingdom of Prussia and the German Empire. The Iron Cross went on to be used as military decoration during the Nazi empire, and its use faded after that. 

Staroměstské náměstí 551/17, House at the Stone Lamb

Along Staroměstské náměstí, stop at #551/17, where you’ll find the house At the Stone Lamb. This house is located on what was once the ‘Royal Way.’ The route starts at Republic Square and passes Prague’s most impressive sights, ending at Prague Castle. Many prospective alchemists came to the city of Prague in the hopes of meeting the Emperor. They would often stay in this house, previously a hotel, as its proximity to the royal way was thought to show reverence to the Emperor.

The house that contained the hotel had two names: House At the Stone Lamb and House At the Stone Unicorn. Both titles came from the relief carved on the building’s front between the first and second floors. The carving indeed looks like a lamb, but the single horn on its head would denote a unicorn. No one seemed to have been able to agree on one answer, so it is known interchangeably.

Staroměstské náměstí 550/18, At the Stone Table 

This stunning Romanesque house was rebuilt in the high Baroque style in 1724 and is notable for the incredible stucco decorations around the windows. A huge fresco of St. John the Merciful is on the facade surrounded by a lavish stucco frame. The building was transformed into a literary salon by the Fant sisters. It became a popular spot with Prague’s literary and scientific elite. The name is because of the 15th-century owner, George of Poděbrady, who used it as a foreign exchange office. St. John was a good choice for the house sign as John devoted himself to charitable works and made regular payments to poorhouses.

Staroměstské náměstí 20, At the Golden Unicorn

The pale blue building on the square is called the House at the Golden Unicorn. This is another Romanesque building that was converted into a palace in 1496. Beneath each window, you’ll find a beautiful lily carved into the stone, dating back to its baroque renovation in 1712. In 1781, the building was purchased by W. Ch. Gerle, who opened it up as Prague’s first public reading room. In 1791, Czech composer Bedřich Smetana purchased the building, which turned it into a music school. The house also served as Ludwig van Beethoven’s residence in 1796 when he came to Prague.

Although the house is officially called the “Golden Unicorn,” it has also been called the House at the White Horse and the House at the Red Door. Each one of these names comes from previous house signs, which would have marked the location. Today, the house symbol is a beautiful golden relief of the Madonna, which sits between the windows on the second floor. Unicorns are often associated with virginity, and as the Madonna was a virgin herself, the nickname of the house is no doubt taken from that correlation.

Staroměstské náměstí 24/480, At the Red Fox or Golden Wolf

A few doors down, we find the house At the Golden Fox. The house is also sometimes called the House of the Golden Wolf. The Romanesque structure was rebuilt in the Gothic style, but the current appearance is from the Baroque era. The original sign here was replaced during the Baroque renovations in place of a golden relief of the Virgin Mary. One can only imagine what the previous sign would have looked like, but we know that red foxes symbolize unpredictable change and awareness. Undoubtedly, the owner would have installed the sign during a period of upheaval in Prague’s history, hoping his business would improve for it.

Staroměstské nám 2/3, At the Minute (At the White Lion)

This building is one of the oldest on the square, built in the late gothic style. The most attention-grabbing part of the facade is the rich Mannerist sgrafitto applied like bands around the exterior. The paintings represent Ancient Greek and biblical themes as well as Renaissance legends. A veritable snapshot of the morals of the time. The white stone sculpture of a lion is located on the corner of the building, which gives the house its name. The building was originally the old town hall, fitting as the symbol of the lion, representing justice and military power.

U Radnice 8, The Green Frog

Above the Hotel U Tri Bubnu entrance is a little symbol of a green frog. This marks the house At the Green Frog. This building is part of an extensive series of medieval structures connected to form this large complex opposite the Old Town Square. In the 15th century, a tailor ran his shop out of this house. He was well known for creating fantastical outfits for Bohemian circus performers.

One day, while working on a costume, his maid came in to clean up his studio. She thought she saw a giant green frog and heard the scream of the tailor erupting from the frog’s belly. She ran for help, but they burst out laughing when the town’s guard showed up. It wasn’t a giant frog but the tailor in a green suit. The tailor tried his own acrobatics performance and got his legs stuck behind his head, making him look like a frog while in this giant green costume. The hilarious story spread throughout the town. Instead of being embarrassed, the tailor took on the frog as a symbol of his shop, seeing as he was already getting the free press!

Malé náměstí 

Malé náměstí or the “small courtyard,” is a triangular square located a few steps away from Old Town Square. While small, the court contained several prominent buildings from the Middle Ages that everyone frequented. These included the famous hardware store, a locksmith and a pharmacy. Despite its small stature, this area of town even made it onto the Royal Route.

Malé náměstí 12, The Golden Lily

As a French merchant group settled this area, it’s no surprise we find evidence of their heritage. House #12, called the Golden Lily, was built in the Gothic period but renovated in 1698 in a high baroque style. The fleur-de-lis, or lily, was mentioned as being the house symbol as far back as 1405! This makes it one of the oldest house symbols in Prague. The building was originally the town pharmacy. Since the lily represents purity and fertility, it is an excellent symbol for the pharmacy. This pharmacy supplied medication to the court and the king. This is perhaps why the emblem was coated in gold to make it stand out as the “royal” pharmacy, not to be confused with those “common” pharmacies.

Malé náměstí 13, At the Golden Crown

In the 15th century, the pharmacy moved next door to #13 later. When it did so, it took on the name “At the Golden Crown” and had a huge regal crown emblem to match. The crown’s design resembles the great Bohemian Crown of St. Wenceslas, an iconic Czech jewellery piece. Ironically enough (or perhaps by design), the building currently serves as a fancy jewellery shop. Take a peek inside, as the interior retains some of the antique pharmacy furniture and decor.

Malé náměsti 14/956, At the Little Black Horse

The house near the corner is called the Little Black Horse (although the horse is now painted a beautiful midnight blue). The house dates back to the 16th century when it served as a boarding house. When it was first built, the house was much larger, spread around the corner and contained a 40-horse stable. Having a large stable meant nobles could rest their horse near where they slept and not have to walk long distances between the inn and the stables.

Karlova Street

Karlova Street is a pedestrians-only street that connects a small square to the Charles Bridge. It is named after Charles IV and was an essential part of the Royal route.

Karlova Street 48/455, At the Golden Crown

The house on the street corner, painted terracotta red, is one of two gothic palaces that have since been joined together. The facade bears the late 18th-century reconstruction and classicist style. On the front of the house is the large house symbol of a great golden crown carved in stucco. The house sign is originally from the 16th century. For over 200 years, the house served as a pharmacy.

Karlova 28, At the White Shoe

The House at the White Shoe is an old gothic house with a Renaissance facade. Above each window is a series of three adorable little blooming roses. The house sign on the front depicts an old shoe, which is traditional. This was undoubtedly an old shoemaker or cobbler shop and would have been where many of Karlova’s elite would have come to get their shoes fixed. Back then, owning a pair of shoes was costly, so people would have them fixed up rather than just buy a new pair.

Seminarska 6, At the Black Star

As we walk along Karlova, turn up Seminarska Street for a quick detour. This ancient house at #6 dates back to 1538 and has retained its Gothic and Renaissance appearance. The name “Seminarska” means Seminar Street. This street would have once been where the priestly seminary was, close to the nearby Clementinum. Although the building looks like it is made of large stones, this is merely sgraffito (carved stucco) to give the appearance of a costly stone facade. The Black Star, with eight points, is where the house gets its name. The Black Star symbolizes female deities since the planet Venus (often associated with female gods) has eight-year cycles.  

Seminarska 2, House of the Golden Well

You find the house at the Golden Well just down the road from the Black Star. This house contains the oldest foundations in the Old Town, dating back to the 12th century! Just as the home of the Black Star relates to the female spirit, so does this house. Right in the facade’s centre is a golden star with the Madonna and child’s image in the middle. Once more, this star has eight points. Perhaps this hints at the fact that this entire street was dedicated to female pursuits. Surrounding the star are stucco figures of St. Wenceslas, St. Jan of Nepomuk, St. Roch, St. Sebastian, St. Ignatius of Loyola, St. Francis Xavier and St. Rosalia.

Karlova 18, House at the Golden Snake

The blood-red building on the corner of Karlova and Liliová Street bears a beautiful house number featuring a golden snake with a crown on his head and the figure of a tiny human in his mouth. The ancient symbol of a snake regurgitating man is a symbol of fertility. The house was originally the first cafe in Prague and is still open as a traditional Czech restaurant today.

Karlova Street 20/180, At the Blue Pike

According to a popular legend, the house called At the Blue Pike was one of Prague’s first pubs. The pub was so popular that it was even frequented by Wenceslas IV and his court magician Žito.

Karlova Street 14/183, The Stoned Siren

At #183, we can see the motif of a beautiful mermaid carved into the stone on the corner of the house. The symbol dates to 1439. Mermaids are the embodiment of the sacred feminine. One can imagine that the previous owners may have been involved in businesses for women or employed women. In Greek mythology, a siren is a dangerous creature that enchants sailors with her voice, causing them to be shipwrecked on the shore near their lair. Many people also think the siren story is an allegory for how prostitutes lead men to poverty.

Liliová 5, the Vorechovsky house

Liliová Street was an old pathway used as far back as the early Middle Ages, which connected Vyšehrad (the old royal palace) to the Vltava ford. As such, it was a significant street for traders. Dům U Voříkovských, or the Vorechovsky house, is on the corner of the road. The name of the place comes from the knight Jan Bohuslav Voříkovský of Kundratice, who was the mayor of Prague. The house sign on the front is a beautiful but faded late Renaissance painting of the Escape to Egypt. The story from the Gospel of Matthew details how an angel appeared to Joseph in a dream, telling him to flee to Egypt with Mary and the unborn baby Jesus. The angel warned him that King Herod would seek to kill the child. 

The neighbourhood where the house was constructed in the 14th century was dominated by the Dominicans who lived at the church of St. Anny. Therefore, having a religious symbol above your door would keep you in line with the other neighbours. Below the painting is a little carving of a hand holding a piece of fruit, just on the vault’s apex leading into the house.

Liliová 12/246, At the Golden Hare

At #12 Liliová Street, we find a tiny little house sign. Set against an emerald background is a beautiful little golden rabbit. The house is a lovely example of early Baroque residential architecture. Rabbits and hares have been associated with fertility.

Řetézová 8/245, At the Black Boot

Head back up, Liliova, and cross over to Řetězová Street. At the house at #8, we find an old black boot set against a blood-red background. This house is named At the Black Boot. Unlike the fancy shoe carving we found along Karlova Street, this is an example of a commoner cobbler shop.

Jalovcová 1, At the Three Silver Roses

The old townhome on the corner of the street bears the insignia of three black roses with the words “U tří stříbrných růží” above them, which stands for the house “At the Three Silver Roses.” Originally, the building was two smaller Gothic houses that joined together in 1405, when it became a brewery. In 1806, Václav Kramerius, a Czech publisher, journalist, writer, and one of the most important early figures of the Czech National Revival, bought the house for himself.

Here, he could print and publish books in the Czech language, a first for the city. Despite the name being silver, the colours of the roses are black. Black roses symbolize significant change, perfectly fitting for Kramerius, who wanted to bring change to Prague by using the native Czech language. It has been renovated into a brewery to embrace its historical roots.

Husova Street

Husova Street is named after famed Czech theologian and philosopher Jan Hus. It is said that Hus attended school on the road at No. 71, so the street was named after him.

Husova 12, The Three Standard-Bearers

The house sign at #12 is not easily missed. Unlike the small carvings above doorways, the Three Standard-Bearers’ house sign is a huge marquee splashed across the facade. Three almost lifesized figures are painted onto plaques that stand atop the first floor of the building. These paintings date back to the 19th century. The original building, constructed in 1580, was previously known as the “Three Angels.”  

The legend of these three characters goes back to the 1730s. Three men who were best friends each were conscripted to a different division in the army. They each agreed to meet back here at this spot after the war was over. Two of them came back and waited for the third. When they finally saw him walking down the street, as he approached, the other two discovered that the man was a ghost, killed in battle. The spirit warned the other soldiers of their impending deaths. Thinking this meant they would be killed in action, the soldiers left the army and joined the nearby monastery. But there is no running from death, and the two friends died within the year of a disease which spread inside the Franciscan monastery of Our Lady of the Snows.

Husova 13, House of the Three Ducks

On the corner of Husova and Řetězová, we find one of the original medieval houses. Although the appearance has changed over the years, it maintains its square floor plan. Above the doorway is an embossed house sign with three ducks carved onto it. Ducks symbolize caring, nurturing, comfort, and fertility. 

Husova 15, House of the Blue Grapes

At number 15 on Husova Street, we have this charming baby blue-painted house. The house dates back to 1370 and is one of the oldest places on the road. The current baroque facade dates back to the 1700s. The large house sign on the front gives the building its name, House of the Blue Grapes. The carving is made up of the image of two men carrying a giant bunch of blue grapes. This sculpture was made in the 18th century by famed Czech sculptor Josef Malinský. The two men are thought to be Joshua and Caleb, returning from Eshcol’s valley to the waiting Israelites. The story’s moral is that God keeps his promises if you follow his word.

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Husova 17, House of the Golden Tiger

In the Middle Ages, tigers were thought to represent the cruelty of war. Thus, tigers were not a very popular symbol for house signs as they were almost taboo. But this taboo eventually caught on as a trendy subversion. It became avant-garde for European cafes to use these animals as their house symbols. This cafe first used a black lion as their house sign. It wasn’t until 1713 that it became known as the House of the Golden Tiger and was fitted with the matching symbol. Some of the Czech Republic’s most famous writers, politicians and artists have frequented the Golden Tiger. It became almost a creative workshop for the city and was full of creative energy!

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Husova 18/157, At the Golden Horse

This 15th-century house was rebuilt in the classicist style in 1804 but still displays the beautiful frescoed house sign. The House at the Golden Horse depicts a beautiful golden horse running across a blue and green landscape. Horses are known to symbolize freedom, but this horse most likely was used to indicate a stable where people could store their horses on the way into the city.

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Michalská 13/439, At the White Hare

At house number #13, we find the house At the White Hare. The gothic construction with classicist reconstruction contains a fresco of the rabbit jumping across the plains in a small painting above the doorway. White hares and rabbits were sometimes the symbols of innocence and purity.

Michalská Street 19/436, Iron Gatehouse

Michalská Street was named after the Church of St. Michael the Archangel, built here in the second half of the 12th century. The Iron Gatehouse was built in 1519 and contained a beautiful fresco above the doorway depicting Samson at the Gate of Gaza. This story involves Samson sleeping with a prostitute when visiting the city of Gaza. His enemies planned to surprise him at the city’s inner gates and attack him in the morning. But Samson arose at midnight and destroyed the city’s colossal stone doors in an act to humiliate and oppose the Gaziites. Without city gates, the city was vulnerable to attack. This story from the bible portrays Samson as the flawed hero and is thought to prove that God’s plan is sometimes achieved with all kinds of people, not just the pious.

Kožná 475, The House at the Two Golden Bears

Before turning down Melantrichova, look at the house on the corner of Kožná. The building was constructed in 1567 and is known as the house at the Two Golden Bears. Court architect Bonifaz Wohlmut designed the wonderfully detailed stone portal in the 16th century. The two bears, one light smaller than the other, are said to represent the Great Bear (Ursa Major) and Little Bear (Ursa Minor) constellations.

Beside each of the bears is a knight that kneels beside them, holding a branch in their hands. The man on the left is slightly larger than the man on the left. These two figures represent old age and youth. The branch the older man is holding is beginning to dry out, while the branch in the younger man’s hand was once painted with green paint to show off its new growth. You can read this as an interpretation of the cycle of life. But there is another reading of this house sign, which symbolizes the alchemist’s creation of the elixir of life. Perhaps the young man isn’t ageing at all, but the old man is becoming young again after drinking the elixir of life!

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Melantrichova 11, House of the Five Crowns  

Melantrichova Street was named after the Czech Renaissance printer and publisher Jiří Melantrich, who lived in Prague from 1511 to 1580. The house at #11 is a Gothic structure with a Renaissance facade. Along the front, sandwiched between the second and third-floor windows, are a series of carved crowns, which give the house its name, House of the Five Crowns. Seeing as the crowns are repeated, it is clear that whoever lived in this house wanted their royal status to be at the forefront of every visitor’s mind when they approached.

Rytirska 16, The Blue Rose 

Rytířská Street was one of the medieval streets where jousting tournaments took place as part of the celebrations during the coronation of Charles IV. This tradition would continue for hundreds of years. The street was also used as a large marketplace. The western part of the road was known as the egg market, and the eastern part was known as the goose market. The U Modré růže house, or the Blue Rose, was established here in 1364. The gothic tower, which remains in place, is one of the more unique aspects of the house. Above the original doorway is a carving of a beautiful blue rose in a cartouche. Blue roses are known to symbolize unrequited love or love lost. Perhaps the house owner had the symbol made in honour of a love lost.

Na Můstku 4, Samuel’s House

Stop at house #4 on Na Můstku street. This house, called the Samuel’s House, is an odd shape, with one edge jutting out from the rest. This is because two older homes were joined together to form one building. You’ll find the tremendous baroque house sign at the corner of the join, a sculpture of Samuel anointing David as he becomes king. The 16th-century owner of the home had this installed as his first name was Samuel.

Na Můstku 6/381, At the Two White Pigeons

This beautifully bright white terraced gothic house has the most wonderful oval cartouche displaying the house sign above the front entrance. Two small white pigeons are set against a sky-blue background that give the house its name. Surrounding the insignia is a richly decorated stucco frame set against the baroque facade, dating back to the 1840s. Pigeons are often associated with the Holy Spirit. They are sometimes regarded as a symbol of pure, innocent, and true things. But when we see two pigeons together like this, it symbolizes true love and commitment as pigeons and doves mate for life.

Října 378, The Bee Hive

In medieval times, the house we see at #378 on Října was a series of small homes. Later, in the 16th century, the townhomes were joined to form this large palace. In 1789, a beeswax maker named Nicholas Fischer took ownership of the property and called it the Bee Hive. He remodelled the house in high baroque fashion and added his house symbol to the top, a stunning golden beehive made in stucco. The tiny bees which appear to fly in and out of the hive are incredibly charming. The beehive symbol is strongly connected to the Freemasons as the hive represents the lodge or meeting place for the members. Many people suspect the beeswax business was just a front for the Freemasons.

This brings us to the end of the tour in the Old Town. You can continue the tour of the Mala Strana House signs by heading across the Vlatava River to the western side of town. Feel free to end the tour here and continue exploring the old city’s wonder. And continue the second part of the tour another day! Let me know in the comments what your favourite house sign was or what your house sign would be if you were to have one.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

Resources

Pamatkovykatalog | Kralovskacesta | Wiki Commons (Images)

The post Ultimate Walking Tour of Prague’s Old Town House Signs first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Cinema Lucerna

We were exhausted on our last trip to Prague and wanted to opt for a relaxed evening indoors. We were lucky to find Cinema Lucerna, next to the famous Wenceslas Square. Cinema Lucerna in Prague is one of the city’s oldest and most iconic cinemas, steeped in history and charm. Located within the grand Lucerna Palace, a beautiful Art Nouveau building in the heart of Prague, this cinema offers a unique and nostalgic movie-going experience.

History of Cinema Lucerna

Opened in 1909, Cinema Lucerna has retained much of its original splendour, with ornate decor, intricate mouldings, and a classic ambiance that transports visitors back to the early 20th century. The main screening room is particularly stunning, featuring a large, curved screen, plush red seating, and an elegant ceiling adorned with decorative elements.

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Cinema Lucerna is not just a place to watch movies; it’s a cultural landmark. It hosts various events, including film festivals, special screenings, and premieres, making it a hub for film enthusiasts. The programming is diverse, offering a mix of contemporary films, independent cinema, and classic movies, often in their original languages with Czech subtitles.

The Theatre Screening Rooms

Cinema Lucerna in Prague features two screening theatres, each offering a distinct experience.

The Main Hall is the grand, historic theatre showcasing the cinema’s rich heritage. It is known for its stunning Art Nouveau architecture, including ornate decorations, a large curved screen, and a capacity of around 453 seats. The atmosphere in this hall is reminiscent of the early 20th century, making it a favourite for those looking to experience cinema in a classic, elegant setting.

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The Small Hall: This more intimate, modern theatre is designed for smaller audiences and has a cozier atmosphere, with about 51 seats. It’s perfect for independent films, documentaries, and special screenings. If you have your heart set on the beautiful main hall theatre, check the tickets and screening information to avoid disappointment.

Cinema Lucerna Prices

Cinema Lucerna in Prague offers a range of ticket prices depending on the type of screening. Generally, standard movie tickets cost around 160 to 210 CZK (approximately $7 to $9 USD). For special screenings or events, prices may vary and could be higher.

The cinema also hosts various cultural events, such as live broadcasts of opera or ballet performances, which may have different pricing. Tickets for these events can range from 250 to 350 CZK (around $11 to $15 USD), depending on the specific show and seating options.

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If you’re planning a visit, it’s best to check their official website or visit the box office for the most accurate and up-to-date ticket prices​.

About the Movie Showings

New releases were playing in the theatre in both English and Czech. In addition to new releases, this spot also features classic films, and we went to see the sci-fi thriller, “Aliens.”

Cinema Lucerna is the perfect spot for a late-night outing if you’re like us and not really into the bar or club scene. Whether you’re a movie buff or want to soak in some of Prague’s rich history, this iconic cinema is worth visiting.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Cinema Lucerna Review: Prague’s Best Hidden Cinematic Treasure first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Prague is a city brimming with history, and one of its most iconic establishments is U Fleků, a traditional Czech pub serving locals and visitors since 1499. We heard so much about this place before coming to Prague. It’s located in the bustling heart of Prague, and this legendary beer hall is loved and criticized by many. So is it worth a visit? We went to find out, and here’s what you need to know before stepping inside.

A Step Back in Time: The Atmosphere at U Fleků

As you enter U Fleků, you’re immediately transported to another era. The pub’s ancient architecture is one of its most striking features. With dark wooden ceiling beams, medieval traceries along the walls, thick glass windows, and long communal tables, it feels like you’re stepping into a medieval castle. The building’s history is palpable, making Prague’s oldest brewery and a must-see for history buffs.

U Fleků boasts eight different halls, each with its unique charm. However, you shouldn’t miss the Akademie, which houses original decor dating back to the 1500s. Here, you’ll find yourself surrounded by history as you enjoy your meal and drink, with live accordion or tuba music adding to the atmosphere.

Navigating the Tourist Trap: What to Watch Out For

While U Fleků offers a unique and historical experience, it has become somewhat of a tourist trap. The pub’s popularity means it’s often crowded with visitors, and some staff have developed tactics to take advantage of the unprepared.

One of the most notorious tricks is the “welcome shot.” Upon entering, you might be handed a shot of local liqueur without ordering it. It may seem like a complimentary gesture, but if you drink it, you’ll find it added to your bill at a price higher than a pint of beer. To avoid this, kindly decline the shot when offered and stick to ordering what you want.

The staff can sometimes be brusque, likely due to the constant influx of tourists. However, a polite approach, with a few Czech phrases like “please” (prosím) and “thank you” (děkuji), can go a long way in making your experience smoother.

The Beer: Why U Fleků is Still Worth a Visit

Despite the potential pitfalls, the beer at U Fleků is what keeps many visitors coming back. The pub is renowned for its dark, thick, and heady lagers, brewed on-site in their microbrewery. Their black beer, in particular, is a standout and the perfect way to unwind after sightseeing in Prague. The beer is affordable and fantastic, making it a highlight of the visit.

If you’re visiting in the summer, don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy your drink in their spacious beer garden, where you can relax in a more open and lively atmosphere.

Dining at U Fleků: Traditional Czech Cuisine

Alongside the beer, U Fleků offers a menu of authentic Czech dishes that pair perfectly with their brews. If you’re just in for a snack, the cheese plate is a great choice, featuring local Czech cheeses, olives, and slices of bread. Their homemade garlic soup is a favourite during the colder months, providing warmth and comfort.

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For a heartier meal, try the Goulash with bread dumplings, a classic Czech dish that’s rich and satisfying. If you’re up for a culinary adventure, order the Fleck’s Treat, a platter that includes a variety of meats, sauerkraut, and both bread and potato dumplings. It’s a true taste of Czech cuisine that’s hard to beat.

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Final Thoughts: Is U Fleků a Tourist Trap or a Must-Visit?

U Fleků may have quirks, and it’s easy to see why some might label it a tourist trap. However, with its incredible history, lively atmosphere, and delicious beer, it’s also a place that can offer a memorable experience—if you know what to expect. By keeping your wits about you and only ordering what you want, you can enjoy the best of what this historic pub offers without falling into the tourist traps.

So, is U Fleků a tourist trap or a must-visit in Prague? It can be both, but with the right mindset, it’s worth a visit.

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Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post U Fleků Review: Tourist Trap or Must-Try Restaurant in Prague? first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

If you’ve visited Prague, there is no doubt you will have come across Mucha’s work. He is one of the most prolific Czech painters in the world, and the city LOVES his paintings and posters. They seem to appear on every street corner and postcard in Prague. His famous prints have become so popular they are often sold at University Poster fairs and cover the walls of hundreds of dorm rooms around the world.

Mucha’s Art Nouveau

His style of art is quintessentially Art Nouveau. Most of his more commercial works feature images of beautiful young women in flowing dresses surrounded by lush flowers. He kept the tones for these advertorial pieces in pale pastels, typical of the art nouveau style. But the ‘Slav Epic’ is something completely different. A departure from his commercial work and something genuinely personal to the artist. If you are interested in learning more about the Slavic people and their history, this is an immersive and exciting way to do it!

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Where to Find the Artwork

I am SO EXCITED to finally get to update this blog with the new locations for the Slav Epic. When I visited Prague in 2015, I didn’t know I would be one of the last people to see the Slav Epic in person. I caught the exhibition just a few months before it closed. Until the end of 2016, the Slav Epic was housed in the National Gallery’s Veletržní Palace in Prague.

Moravský Krumlov

Originally, the canvases were exhibited in the city of Moravský Krumlov. They were displayed in the castle and remained a precious treasure of the town for over 50 years. Then, the city of Prague contested that the painting had been left to them by Mucha in the first place. And they shouldn’t be displayed so far away from where most tourists visit. But Prague had no space suitable for showing all these incredibly large works of art. You almost need an airport hanger! The city of Moravský Krumlov felt the paintings needed an appropriately regal and elevated space. They wanted them to be displayed inside the old palace of Moravský Krumlov, where they felt like they belonged. 

Political Battle over the Paintings

In 2012, the city of Prague eventually won the right to display the works. They found a temporary space for them in the National Gallery’s Veletržní Palace. But this space was only to house them for four years. After 2016, the paintings were boxed up, and a political battle between Prague and Moravský Krumlov erupted again. No one could agree on where they would be displayed. They travelled to Japan for international exhibitions, but when they returned, they sat in storage.

Finally, in 2020 the Prague City Council decided to return the paintings to the château in Moravský Krumlov. They will be on display here until 2026. After returning to their original home, the canvas exhibition spaces were repaired to better showcase these incredible works of art.

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Access & Admission 

As the exhibition takes place in Moravský Krumlov, most visitors will arrive via Prague, Vienna or nearby Brno.

The train from Prague to Moravský Krumlov takes about 4 hours (with one transfer.) After arriving at the stations, you can hop on a bus which will take you to the entrance to the castle. If you are travelling from Vienna, the journey is slightly shorter, only 3 hours on the train. The shortest trip will be from Brno, as it is only 1 hour on the train.

Tickets

It’s best to purchase tickets in advance to ensure you won’t be disappointed that they are sold out when you arrive.

Prices: Adults 250 CZK, Seniors 65+ 170 CZK, Students 10-25 years old 150 CZK

Hours

January–May:  9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m. (last entry at 3 p.m.)
June–August:  9:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m. (last entry at 4 p.m.)
September–December  9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m. (last entry at 3 p.m.)
all year round: closed on Mondays

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The Size Paintings

Seeing the paintings for the first time in person, you’re immediately awestruck by the sheer size of these canvases. They feel more like walled frescos than simple pictures. Moments are frozen in time, captured in life-sized (and in some cases, larger than life) works of art. Each of the paintings depicts the history of the Slav people, their civilization, wars, and celebrations. The next thing you’ll notice about these paintings is how the people represented differ from Mucha’s other works. These are not the languid, sensual forms of Mucha’s commercial art nouveau posters. These deftly painted scenes profoundly portray the emotions and collective journey of the subjects in each brushstroke.

About Alphonse Mucha

Alfons Maria Mucha, although better known internationally as Alphonse Mucha, was a Czech painter born in 1860. He born in the small town of Ivančice in southern Moravia. Mucha showed an aptitude for painting very early on. He received his secondary education at the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul in Brno. He was accepted into the arts school firstly as he was also an accomplished singer. Mucha was famously quoted as saying, “for me, the notions of painting, going to church, and music are so closely knit that often I cannot decide whether I like church for its music or music for its place in the mystery which it accompanies.” The dramatic scenes in many religious paintings undoubtedly influenced the art he would later go on to make. 

Mucha in Vienna

At 19 years of age, Mucha travelled to Vienna. There he became an apprentice scenery painter for theatre companies. His flair for the dramatic would continue to be influenced through these explorations. After his apprenticeship, Mucha moved back to Moravia. There he was employed by Count Belize to create portraits, decorative art and lettering for tombstones. Belasi saw Mucha had real talent. He wasn’t just an everyday artist. Belasi brought Mucha with him on his trips to Venice, Florence and Milan. There he was able to introduce him to many more professional artists.

Mucha in Paris

Eventually, Mucha moved to Paris in 1888 and started to professionally study art at the Académie Julian and Académie Colarossi. These schools specialized in studying female nudes and figurative paintings. As well as historical and religious art.

While in Paris, Mucha lived inside the Slavic community boarding houses who famously sheltered struggling artists. It was perhaps living within this community that endowed Mucha to the Slavic people even more. Mucha’s first large client was the Central Library of Fine Arts. It was from here that his career as an illustrator and graphic artist took off. He successfully made a life for himself in Paris for many years, creating commercial art. These printed works featured his iconic attractive sets of women, in flowing gowns and floral backdrops.

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History of the Slav Epic

At the age of 43, Mucha returned to his homeland of Moravia. There, he devoted himself to painting a series about the history of all the Slavic people. Mucha’s inspiration for the series first started when he was researching another assignment. While studying and travelling through the Balkans, he was genuinely struck by the hardships and sufferings of the Slav people. He also noted there was no real documentation of these people’s stories in art. Mucha decided it would be his final task to bring these stories to life with paint.

Although he secured a financier for the giant undertaking, this was more of a passion project for the artist. Sitting in his studio, surrounded by this enormous canvas, Mucha painted the past into reality. The Slav Epic depicts in chronological order the mythologies and histories of the Czechs and Slavic people.

Romanticism

Many of the themes in this series fall under romanticism. Romanticism is characterized by its emphasis on emotion and individualism and the glorification of the past and nature. In these paintings, sensations are portrayed on people’s faces in a far more sophisticated way than before. Looks of horror, terror, awe and apprehension started to round out the range of human emotion in art. Previously emotion had been stunted between pure joy or sadness. Romanticism also elevated folk art, which had previously been thought of as a lesser form of art.

It took Mucha over 14 years to complete the series. In 1928, on the 10th anniversary of Czechoslovakia’s independence, Mucha presented the collection of paintings to the Czech nation. He considered it his most important piece of work he ever created. The Czech Republic cherished the gift. It was like nothing else they had ever seen before. Notably, during World War II, the Slav Epic was one of the first things hidden away before the Nazis took hold of the city and seized works of art.

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The Slavs in Their Original Homeland

The series is set chronological and starts with the painting entitled “The Slavs in their Original Homeland,” painted in 1912. In the 4th to 6th century, the Slavic people lived largely in unpopulated, rural areas, which often were considered marshes. Because there was no national army to protect these farmers, their lands were invaded time and time again.

In this painting, you can see a mother and child hiding in the bushes. Behind them, their village is being burned to the ground. The red fires glowing in the distance to the left of the frame. Their eyes are so vulnerable and seem to cry out to the viewer for help. They look right into your soul. This is a trope that Mucha uses throughout almost the entirety of the series.

In the top corner of the piece, you can see three figures floating in mid-air. The largest of the figures, a priest, holds his hands outstretched. In the same position as Jesus on the cross. The two on either side of him are a young boy and girl. The boy, dressed in blood-red robes represents war. The girl on the right, dressed in white represents peace. The two figures seem to foreshadow the future of the Slavic people. Their history is marred by many wars but also by the hope for peace.

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Colours in the Slav Epic

The colours used in this painting are significant in the series and also in comparison to Mucha’s other works. Most of Mucha’s artworks are pale and delicate. In this series, we find there is definitely a dark tone to his work. Colours here are not just used haphazardly. He uses colour to his advantage and to help tell the story using symbolism.

Many of the paintings throughout the series have two separate planes of existence set in the same scene. Often mythological beings are seen floating above the historic action below. This is Mucha’s way of combining the essential mythologies of the Slavic people to past events.

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 The Celebration of Svantovít 

Sventovit is a Slavic deity of war, fertility and abundance. Sventovit is depicted as a four-headed god with two heads looking forward and two looking back. These four directions are positioned like a compass, looking north, south, east and west. The different directions they point also symbolize the different seasons of the year. Mucha’s next piece, “The Celebration of Svantovít” features the god Sventovit is located in the upper right portion of the painting. The god’s head is just cut off on the top of the canvas. Almost as if we portals cannot look upon him. But we can see some of the branches which sprout forth from his head. He is surrounded by other celestial beings painted in an almost opalescent quality.

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Arcona

Before the 1200s, the Slavs headed westwards and built a temple to Sventovit in the city of Arcona. As Sventovit was also the god of the seasons the Slavs would have a grand celebration every year during the autumn. The festival was obviously held at this temple. Pilgrims would come from all over Europe to celebrate with them here.

In 1168 the Danes attacked the city and destroyed the temple in their conquest of the east. We can see the Danes in the upper left corner of the canvas. They are represented by the fearsome-looking warriors being lead by a pack of wolves.

Celebration

Below the celestial scene, the Slavs are preparing for their autumnal celebrations. The Slavs and pilgrims are all dressed in white, a symbol of purity. Only one character seems to be aware of the incoming attack. A mother holding her child in the center of the frame looks out at the viewer. She is almost begging the viewer to take notice. And save them from the horrors which are about to happen to the peaceful pilgrims and Slavs.

Introduction of the Slavonic Liturgy in Great Moravia

In this painting, the “Introduction of the Slavonic Liturgy in Great Moravia” we have a lot going on. So let’s study the earthly plane first. The scene takes place in Velehrad around the year 880. In the lower right corner of the painting, we see a ray of light shining down. A deacon, with his back turned to the audience, reads out an edict. Sitting on his throne awaiting the reading is Prince Svatopluk of Greater Moravia. The deacon is reading out the announcement that Pope John VIII has officially sanctioned the use of Slavic liturgy.

To the left of the deacon, almost hidden behind a small tree, stands Methodius. Two novices are seen kneeling by his side. The task of translating the Bible into the Slavic language was a job upon which Methodius staked his life. And it would make him a saint. Methodius, and his brother Cyril, both helped with this translation of the Bible. The Pope also made Methodius archbishop for his achievements. In the middle ages, having a bible in your native language was a way of ensuring its legacy.

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Slavic Language

But not everyone is happy to hear this news. The two German priests surrounding Svatopluk, whose faces are shaded and almost hidden in darkness, can barely conceal their anger. These Germans had been making their way through Moravia in the hopes of eliminating the Slavic language for good. They wanted to force the Slavs to learn the German language in order to practice Christianity.

In the very front of the foreground, once more staring out at the audience, stands a young man with his fist clenched. He raises his other hand in the air, which holds a large ring. The circle symbolizes this moment of strength in unity for the Slavic people.

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Boris of Bulgaria and Igor of Russia

Floating above this scene, we have members of the divine realm. In the upper left corner, we can see the Pope sitting on his throne. Beside him, sits the Byzantine emperor, who was the head of the Orthodox Church. Surrounding the great religious leaders Slav who suffered forced Germanification, who now cry out for comfort. In the center of the ethereal world, we see stylized images of Methodius and Cyril as Saints. To the very right, we have the portraits of Boris of Bulgaria and Igor of Russia and their wives. These rulers helped spread the Slavic Bible across the country which helped strengthen their rule and their culture.

Tsar Simeon I of Bulgaria 

Much as the Bible was important in the perpetuation of the Slavic language, art and literature were also significant in ensuring a legacy for this nation. When Methodius died, the Archbishop of Moravia, Prince Svatopluk, under the influence of his German priests, withdrew his support for the Slavic Bible. With this exodus, he also exiled all of Methodius’ followers out of Moravia. They were scholars without a place to call home. Methodius had died and his successor was not recognized by the Pope and therefore had no power. His followers felt they were the only ones left who could continue Methodius’ great work. But all was not yet lost.

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Tsar Simeon I

Luckily, Tsar Simeon I of Bulgaria, who had a great kindness in his heart for the Slavic people, gave the scholar refuge inside his court. Tsar Simeon I, was a powerful ruler. Simeon’s successful campaigns against the Byzantines, Magyars and Serbs led Bulgaria to its greatest territorial expansion ever! It was on its way to being one of the most powerful states in Eastern and Southeast Europe. But Simone was also a lover of literature and art. We can see Simeon himself highlighted here under a golden arch. He is seen dictating to his scribes from his raised dais. Other scholars are spread out all over the court. Almost hastily and messily, writing and reading under the golden light of the throne room.

The painting’s foreground is rather small. The upper portion, which takes up about half the space, focuses on the palace’s decor. The frescoes on the wall feature both Byzantine and Slavic designs. Slavic leaders are painted, and a circular motif is applied in gold to the front of the baldachin.

King Přemysl Otakar II of Bohemia

The fifth painting in the series is entitled “King Přemysl Otakar II of Bohemia.” This painting was made 12 years after the first. The piece depicts King Přemysl Otakar II, who ruled Bohemia from 1253-1278. The King is celebrating the marriage of his niece to the prince of Hungary. This marriage would forge a great alliance and strengthen the bonds of both countries. 

The wedding took place on October 5th, 1264. It was one of the greatest celebrations in Europe’s history to date. Held on the banks of the Danube, under a large canopy, fancy tents were set up along the river to accommodate all the royal guests. The event was dubbed the “Union of Slavic dynasty“. The King happily is greeting his guests inside an ornate tent covered in rich carpets and a beautiful mosaic dome. This scene is lit from above, as if from that celestial place. The light of the hope for the countries’ futures.

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The Coronation of Serbian Tsar Štěpán Dušan

The next painting in the series is the “The The Coronation of Serbian Tsar Štěpán Dušan.” Dušan fought many successful wars, growing the size of the country and enriching the livelihood of his people in the process. On Easter Sunday in 1346, he had himself crowned as the Tsar of the Serbs and Greeks. The painting takes place on the hillside, down from the Church of Saint Marko near Skopje. In this scene, we see crowds of peasants and nobles alike, in line for his coronation. Under Dušan’s rule, Serbia was the major power in the Balkans, and a multi-ethnic and multi-lingual empire. He enacted Dušan’s Code which was a compilation of several legal systems, which is considered to be one of the first acts of the constitution.

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The children will follow in their leader’s footsteps and bring freedom to the Czech people

Dušan is depicted at the centre of the frame, but not larger than any other person presented. Walking in front of him are some young Serbian girls in traditional attire. The children stand at the front of the procession, as Mucha always maintained that “the children will follow in their leader’s footsteps and bring freedom to the Czech people.” In their hands, they carry flowers and olive branches, the symbols of peace and victory. The children’s gaze focuses once more on the viewer, asking them to join in on the celebrations.

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Jan Milíč of Kroměříž

This painting, “Jan Milíč of Kroměříž,” is the first of a triptych in the Slav Epic series. These three paintings jump forward in history slightly and focus on the reformist preachers of the 14th and 15th centuries. Jan Milíč of Kroměříž was a Czech Catholic priest who found himself in opposition with the rest of his clergymen. He found the Catholics to be immoral and indulgent. Their greed was outweighing their piety. 

He redesigned from his official priestly duties and instead dedicated himself to helping the sick and poor of the city of Prague. Milíč made it his mission to persuade the prostitutes of a large house of ill repute to shed their sinful ways and repent. By the sheer eloquence of his words alone, they followed.

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Unlike the rest of the paintings in this series, this one is primarily made up of women. Even Milíč himself is very small in proportion to the rest of the scene. At this moment in time, we can see the former prostitutes shedding their brightly coloured clothes and lavish jewels in exchange for simple, white robes. A mode of dressings that represented their newfound purity.

Jerusalem

Milíč set about building a new church, which he would call his “Jerusalem“. This church would become the Týn Church which now stands in Prague’s Old Town Square. In this painting, we can see the women gathered around the spot that would become this church. The scaffolding reaching high up, making the verticality of the painting one of the most impactful things about this piece. One of the prostitutes in the foreground, dressed in red, has her mouth gagged in order to prevent her from gossiping, a mortal sin.

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Jan Hus Preaching at the Bethlehem Chapel

The second and largest painting in the triptych is “Jan Hus Preaching at the Bethlehem Chapel”. In this dimly lit scene, we see the Czech theologian and philosopher Jan Hus sitting in the center of the Bethlehem Chapel in 1412. Jan was at the height of his popularity at this time. Jan Hus preached against the Catholic Church of Bohemia, as he believed they were using the church for their own gains. And they would not let the Bohemian people have the Slavic language used in church. The scenes show Hus on the left side of the painting, preaching from his pulpit. But Hus, despite being perhaps the most famous character in the scene is not the central focus. The audience is filled with both everyday people and the highest rungs of Bohemia. All together, presented equally.

The church is also filled with famous characters who would shape the future of Bohemia. Perhaps influenced by the teachings of Hus. The future leader of the Hussite army Jan Žižka, stands under a fresco of St. George and the Dragon. In front of the pulpit is a small group of Hus’ students who are diligently taking notes. All of them sit there, transfixed by the words he speaks.

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Queen Sophia, wife of King Váklav IV

On the right side of the frame, we see the bright red canopy of Queen Sophia, wife of King Váklav IV. She sits with her assembly listening to the great lecturer. One of her ladies in waiting turns her head to the side, looking off at a shadowy figure in the corner. This figure represents one of the spying priests who would bring about the death of Jan Hus.

Mucha represents the Bethlehem Chapel as he imagined it. The real church was destroyed in 1836, long before Mucha started this painting. Mucha draws the interior in the high Gothic style as it feels so grand and perhaps reflects the magnificence of the sermons Jan Hus would have been giving. You can visit the new Bethlehem Chapel in Prague today, and while the architecture isn’t nearly as impressive now, its prominence in history is unparalleled.

The Gathering at Křížky

Jan Hus’ teachings were not taken kindly by the papacy. When Alexander V was elected as a pope, he excommunicated Hus. But this would not stop him from preaching. Angered at his insolence, the pope plotted to arrest Hus. He planned an assembly of the Council of Constance to discuss Hus’ opposition to the church. When Hus arrived to have what he thought would be a sensible debate, he was arrested. They repeatedly ask Hus to stop preaching and bend to the ways of the Catholic church but Hus just repeated, “I would not for a chapel of gold retreat from the truth!”.

Hus was burned at the stake for “heresy against the doctrines of the Catholic Church“. As he burned they say he could be heard singing Psalms, a peaceful protestor to the end. But his death would not be in vain. His followers, who called themselves the Hussites, rose up against the Catholic Church. They wanted to take up arms to defend their faith and their right to practice religion in the Slavic language. In 1418, there was a gathering of the Hussites before the great war they would embark on. It is depicted here, in the painting called, “The Gathering at Křížky.”

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Koranda

On the right side of the frame, atop a makeshift pulpit stands the preacher Koranda, one of Jan Hus’ most diligent followers. Koranda preaches to the thousands of followers who have concentrated on the hillside. In the foreground, a young man puts his hands around his mouth, in mid-scream. He is calling out for more pilgrims to come over to this spot and listen to Koranda. Koranda is famously quoted as saying, “the faithful should carry swords, not walking sticks.” It was perhaps this moment that the Hussite Wars began. While the painting’s hills and foreground are lit in a pale morning sunrise, there is a dark sky looming above them. This ominous tone is foreshadowing the devastation that will be brought by impending hostilities.

After the Battle of Grunewald

This scene is perhaps one of the most ghastly of all the paintings in the series. The painting depicts the morning “After the Battle of Grunewald“. The great Battle of Grunewald is one of the most significant medieval European victories in history. It was a show of unity for nations under the thumb of Germany. The Teutonic Knights, a German catholic order, had been ravaging the Baltic lands since the 1400s. They wanted to spread Christianity to the pagan nations as they deemed them “savages”. The Slavs, who were also at war with the German Catholics, saw an opportunity to join forces and create a united front against them. The Slavs, the Poles and the Lithuanians all signed a treaty on July 15th, 1410. This was done to help each other defend themselves against the great Teutonic Knights.

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Polish–Lithuanian Union

The battle at Grunewald in Poland was a bloody affair, but in the end, the Polish–Lithuanian union were the victors. The battle is thought to have been the marking point in history when the balance of power shifted in Central and Eastern Europe. Many historical war scenes are often depicted as gory and bloody and yet Mucha chose a different approach. Instead, the battleground is almost entirely white, like covered in freshly fallen snow. This is once more to show the purity of the fallen soldiers, who died for the good of their country.

At the top of the frame stands Polish King Władysław Jagiełło and his cousin the Lithuanian Grand Duke Vytautas. They look down at the field of dead soldiers in horror. Such a high cost for freedom which should have been granted naturally. A priest in a white hood can be seen blessing the fallen soldiers as he moves throughout the battlefield.

After the Battle of Vítkov

The 11th piece in the series is entitled “After the Battle of Vítkov.” Like the previous painting, this one also focuses on fallen soldiers. Mucha was a pacifist and hated the loss of which war incurred. The battle was between the Czech people and the then King of Hungary, Sigismund, brother of King Wenceslas. Sigismund was thought to be the one who plotted the death of the people’s prophet, Jan Hus. After Hus died, the people refused to accept Sigismund as their king and marched against the Hungarian army, which occupied Prague Castle at the time.

Zižka

The sun rising above the clouds beams down on a figure which represents Zižka, the leader of the Czech army. We have seen Zižka before, first in the church scene listening to Hus’ teachings. Here we see him still fighting for the same things Hus had preached. Zižka is painted here by Mucha almost as a saintly figure, with the light of god cast down upon him.

In the bottom left of the frame, a mother is seen with her children. But she turns away from them, towards the viewer. She looks utterly overcome with pain, exhaustion and defeat. Although her army may have won the battle, many men had to die and she is perhaps thinking about her young children, who will no doubt go to war like so many other young men. These powerful characters looking out at the audience always seem to have these discerning looks, as if they, like the viewer, know what is to come next.

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 Petr of Chelčice 

Mucha aimed with his Slav Epic series to ensure he depicted both sides of the story. And in the painting, “Petr of Chelčice ” we see this balance. While the Hussites were an oppressed people, there were also more extreme factions of Hussites who themselves terrorized many people. This extremist group was called the Taborites. In 1420 the Taborites attacked the village of Vodňany. They plundered the town and burned it to the ground. In the distance of the painting, we see a hint of this action as the black smoke fills the air and almost the entire skyline.

The remaining citizens of Vodňany came to a pond away from the city carrying their dead and wounded in the hopes they would be safe here. The dead are wrapped in white sheets and set against a white pure background. Many of Mucha’s war scenes depict not the action of the battles itself but the after-effects of these traumas on the innocent victims or those left behind. Those who needed to carry on.

Petr Chelčický

In the middle of the frame, we can see a man dressed in a long brown coat and pale blue shawl. He holds a tattered book in his hand, the Czech bible. This is Petr Chelčický. Petr is seen holding the hand of a man, who in anger wants to set off back to the village to avenger his fallen family. But Petr is attempting to calm and dissuade him from seeking revenge.

Chelčický believed and taught pacifism and hated the idea of war. Mucha himself shared in this belief and wanted to highlight the man which he himself looked up to greatly. Petr Chelčický would go on to found the Unity of the Brethren. Their motto was “In essentials, unity; in non-essentials, liberty; in all things, love.”

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The Hussite King Jiří z Podĕbrad

Despite the strength and unity of the Czech people, Rome was still in opposition to them. In 1458 Bohemia elected its first king; Jiří z Podĕbrad portrayed here in “The Hussite King Jiří z Podĕbrad“. Jiří z Podĕbrad was well-loved by his people. With many successful battles, the Hussites had demanded an acknowledgement from the Church. Jiří z Podĕbrad sent an envoy to Rome with a treaty. He asked that the Pope confirmed his election and grant Bohemia their own religious privileges. The Pope sent back to Prague his cardinal Fantinus de Valle, to the Royal Court in Prague’s Old Town.

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Mucha’s Villains

In Mucha’s series, so many of the villains are seen painted in red. And there is no purer red, than the cardinal’s robes. He is centred in the frame, surrounded by the golden light flowing in through the gothic tracery’s stained glass windows. But instead of the golden light on the sun seeming holy or uplifting, there is an ominous, almost firey tone, to the lighting. He has not brought news of peace but of more war. The profile of Fantinus has actually been modelled off Pope Pius II. Fantinus was mere a solider in the Pope’s envoy.

The scene around him is calamitous. The king is seen turning away, his chair on its side, no doubt having been kicked down in a fit of rage. The overturned chair also represents the fact that Bohemia was still not seen as an official kingdom as the Papacy would not acknowledge it. At the bottom of the scene, in the center of the frame, we see a young boy looking out at the viewer. The boy is holding a book in his hands, which has the words “Roma” written on the cover. The book is closed, depicting the fact that Rome has closed the door on the Bohemian people.

The Defence of Sziget by Nikola Zrinski

“The Defence of Sziget by Nikola Zrinski” stands out, as the red hue is so saturated in juxtaposition to the softer tones of the rest of the series. The scene is fiery, literally. It depicts the last assault of the Bohemian forces against the Turkish army. In 1566, when this painting is set, the Ottoman Empire was spreading eastwards, taking city by city by force. Their next attack was set on the city of Sziget, a town in modern-day Hungary.

Nikola Zrinski

Within the walls of the city, the last remaining Bohemians forces gather around their leader, Croatian nobleman Nikola Zrinski. With no way out, the soldiers and common folk decided that instead of surrendering, they would fight to the very end.

One of the most dramatic moments of the siege is the burning of the city. Upon seeing the Turkish forces burst through the battlements, Zrinski’s wife Eva set fire to the city. She knew while this would no doubt kill hundreds of her own soldiers, but it would also kill thousands of Turks. And perhaps stop their advance into the rest of eastern Europe. In this scene, we can see Eva, along with other fellow women, climbing the scaffolding which contained the cities gunpowder supply. They ready themselves, for the right moment, when the Turkish army is close. Then Eva will hurl down the cresset she holds, to set the entire thing ablaze. You can see Eva at the very top of the scaffolding, standing proud and regal, brave in the face of her sacrifice. It was this decision that successfully halted the Ottoman expansion towards the city of Vienna.

Dividing the canvas like a scar, is a dark plume of smoke rising from the ground. The smoke is so thick it doesn’t seem to belong in the earthy realm. Instead, perhaps it is foreshadowing the demise yet to come. This battle is often referred to as “the battle that saved the civilization.”

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The Printing of the Bible of Kralice in Ivančice

“The Printing of the Bible of Kralice in Ivančice” is of particular importance to the Mucha, as it depicts his hometown. The town of Ivančice where Mucha was born is faithfully reinterpreted for us here, on a seemingly idyllic autumnal afternoon. No doubt he would have chosen his favourite time of year to paint this scene. The painting shows members of the Brethren School, gathered in 1578 to admire their new printing press, at work producing the first Czech translation of the New Testament.

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Jan the Elder

This theme of all men being equal was something Mucha believed in and was preached by the Brethren School itself. The teacher Jan the Elder of Žerotin can be seen almost obscured under the wooden shelter on the left side of the canvas despite him being one of the founders of the school. In reality, while the Brethren School was located in Ivančice, the bible had to be printed in secret in the town of Kralice. While the action is celebratory, the act of printing the bible in another language was seen as an affront to the Catholic church.

In the foreground of the frame, we see an old man reading to a young scholar. The scholar is looking out at the audience, with a look of apprehension or perhaps impending doom in his eyes. He seems to know that this act is bound to bring persecution down on the school. But printing the bible in Czech was in itself a symbol of the power of the Czech national identity. Since the bible was one of the most-read pieces of literature, having it in your own language ensured its legacy.

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Jan Amos Komenský

As foreshadowed by the look of terror in the boy from the previous painting, the religious liberties of the Bohemian people would not last. In 1619 the Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand II became King of Bohemia. Without a true Czech King on the throne to fight for the rights of the Bohemian people, the Catholic church was reinstated in what was now a Protestant region. But not without bloodshed. In 1620, 30,000 Bohemians died trying to defend their liberty. Noblemen and academics were given the choice to convert to Catholicism or to be exiled.

Naarden

The painting of “Jan Amos Komenský” depicts the result of this exile. Komenský had been a member of the Brethern school who faced this choice. Not wanting to bend the knee to the catholic church, he left the country he loved so much, breaking his heart in the process. He spent the rest of his life in the town of Naarden, in the Netherlands. The town is located near the water, and historically it was said that Komenský would walk along the coast every day. Perhaps the calm sound of waves crashing on land allowing him to dream about the country he left behind. One day, when he felt like his life was coming to a close, he asked for a chair to be brought out to the coast. There he sat, and let death take him home once more.

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The scene is painted in a sombre, yet peaceful swath of blues and whites. The purity of the white shores upon which he walked is framed by the melancholy blue of the sky. The sombre sky reflecting the sadness which Komenský felt being compelled to leave his homeland and many of his people. A group of his followers can be seen grieving on the shore, holding each other close. A single lantern sits on the sand, glowing brightly in the darkness, perhaps a hint at the hope which still exists for the Bohemian people.

Czech Mason Temple

This is the only painting in the series which Mucha actually signed! Mucha was deeply connected to Komenský. It is well known that Mucha was a member of the Czech Mason Temple, which was founded in Prague in 1919 and named after Komenský himself. One of the symbols of the Masonic Temple is the Eye of God often seen in a triangle surrounded by rays of light. It is thought that Mucha’s inclusion of the lantern in this scene is symbolic of this same Eye of God and therefore a masonic symbol.

The Holy Mount Athos

The 17th piece in the series is called “The Holy Mount Athos.” Mucha believed that Mount Athos was a spiritual nest for the Czechs and Slav people. Mount Athos is a mountain in northeastern Greece and an important centre of Eastern Orthodox monasticism. Mount Athos is home to 20 monasteries under the direct jurisdiction of the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople. Mucha visited the mountain himself in 1924. The spiritual haven made a huge impression on the painter.

The painting depicts the Russian pilgrimage to this holy site. Once more, we are privy to Mucha’s depiction of the heavenly and the earthly places above and below the canvas. In the upper portion of the painting, we can see the celestial realm. An ethereal glow falls in through the windows, showering the angels in heavenly light. Each of the angles holds in their hand a small model of a Slavic monastery that was built around Mount Athos. Each one of the angels seems to shelter and protect these little treasures. In the center of the frame are two female angels, identifiable by the fact they are not barechested and instead draped with immaculate white fabric. They hold an insignia in their hands which indicates they represent “faith” and “purity”.

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High Priests

In the earthly plane, we can see the Russian pilgrims entering the sanctuary in a semi-circle, bowing and praying. Four high priests stand at the back of the scene, just under the Slavic icons. Each one of them holds a relic in their hand which the pilgrims kiss upon greeting. In the foreground of the canvas, we see once more a young man, holding up an older blind man in his arms. One can imagine them to be the same two figures from the school of the Brethren a few paintings ago. The young man, being so inspired by the teaching of the older one, has helped bring him to this holy place where he can finally be at peace.

The Oath of Omladina under the Slavic Linden Tree

There are two important things to understand when reading the painting “The Oath of Omladina under the Slavic Linden Tree”. One is mythological and the other historical. The historical piece of the story is imprinted in the title with the mention of the Omladina. The Omladina were a group of Czech Nationalists made up mainly of youths created in the 1890s. 68 members of the group were furthermore put on trial for their beliefs and sent to prison for their “radical” ideas. These ideas revolved around the creation of a Czech nationalistic revival, despite the fact that Bohemia was currently occupied by the Austria-Hungary empire.

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The Daughter of Sláva

The scene which takes place here combines the Omladina with an allegorical scene of the Daughter of Sláva. Mucha was inspired by the poems of Ján Kollár whose oeuvre focused on stories of the gods and goddesses from Slavis history. The Daughter of Sláva stands in the center of the frame, beneath a Linden tree. The Linden tree is also a symbol of the Slavs. Surrounding the tree, in a circle of unity, are imagined members of the Omladina. The Omladina are in the process of taking an oath and pledging their allegiance to the goddess Slavia, and to the Czech people. While the men in the frame are portrayed in their formal, modern-day fashions, there are groups of figures surrounding them dressed in folk costumes. These are traditional representations of the first Czech people.

Jaroslava and Jiří

Sitting on what almost looks like the edge of a stage are two figures, a male and female. These characters were actually modelled off Mucha’s own children; Jaroslava and Jiří. The composition of girl on the right strumming the lyre was actually used in the posters that Mucha created to promote the exhibition of the Slav Epic in Prague in 1928. Mucha would never finish this painting, and the composition remains bare on the canvas, unvarnished. The faces are also unfinished, but in a sense that almost makes the painting more interesting as future Czech revolutionaries can imagine their own faces in the image. Inspiring them to never lose their Czech identity and the histories that come along with it.

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The Abolition of Serfdom in Russia

Mucha’s painting of the “Abolition of Serfdom in Russia” is a real reflection of the artist’s disheartening experience of visiting Russia for the first time. Mucha had always looked up to the Russians and was excited to finally visit the city. But when he got there in 1913 he was so disappointed to find the city was overrun with poverty and suffering. It was not the progressive place he thought it would be, instead, he found so many cultural practices to be years behind the rest of Europe. Especially in terms of equality, something he valued over everything else.

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Tsar Alexander II

Tsar Alexander II had given Russian serfs personal freedom in 1861. Which Mucha felt was long overdue. The term “serf”, referred to an unfree peasant of the Russian Empire. They differed from slaves only in the sense that they could not be bought and sold independently from their land. Instead were “attached” to the land they lived on. So if you bought a piece of land, the serfs came with it, but could never be moved from that spot. The emancipation movement of 1861 meant that 23 million people received their liberty. They now could marry without having to gain consent, could own property and even start a business.

When the edict was read out, as portrayed here, the serfs and nobles alike had much uncertainty about what this freedom would look like. For the peasants, having never known this kind of life before, some of them were overwhelmed and confused. Mucha’s crowd is subdued rather than excited. They sit for a moment, apprehensive that the emancipation order could be being revoked. And this liberty taken away as fast as it was given.

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St Basil’s Cathedral and the Kremlin

St Basil’s Cathedral and the Kremlin are almost completely obscured in the background of the scene by the thick fog. Making the picture more about the people than the country which looms over them. The sun is only starting to peek out of the clouds, offering a faint glimmer of hope. In the foreground of the picture, once more we see a mother and child looking out at the viewer. Their faces are a complex mixture of trepidation, anxiety and optimism.

The Apotheosis of the Slavs, Slavs for Humanity

The final painting in the series is perhaps the most impressive, the colours within its frame is almost otherworldly. It’s entitled “The Apotheosis of the Slavs, Slavs for Humanity.” In this scene, Mucha sums ups all the themes that were explored throughout the preceding paintings.

It celebrates the independence of the Slav nation in the 20th century.
The painting is divided into four sections, each separated by colour. The blue portion in the bottom right represents the mythology of the Slavic people. Those stories are the bedrock upon which their culture was built.

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The red in the top-right reflects the brutal Hussites wars fought in the middle ages. The dark shadowy figures on either side of the painting represent the enemies of the Slavic people and the oppression they surrounded the Slavs with throughout their lifetime.

Independent Czech Republic

The last group is the one marked with a bright yellow glowing light. In the centre, a man stands with his arms outstretched. So vast, they almost touch the edges of the canvas. He represents the new, independent Czech Republic. But he doesn’t stand alone. Behind him is the figure of Jesus Christ, supporting him on the journey to come. The man greets a group of soldiers, seen in their uniforms, returning from the First World War. The Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed after WWI, and the Slavic people were free of their reign in 1918. Just below the waist of the towering figure is a man crouched over, holding his heart. From his clenched hands, a beam of light is radiating. The light represents the Czech people’s love for their nation. And it is this love that will illuminate the future pathway for the Slavic people.

Young boys and girls wave branches with bright green leaves, saluting the men returning home from battle. They are seen wearing traditional folk costumes. Symbolic of the fact that their traditions will never die and will continue in the hearts of future generations.

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Souls of the Slav People

Mucha hoped that those who viewed these paintings would be able to see into the souls of the Slav people. He wanted all Slavs and Czechs, now more than ever, to come together through their shared history. He hoped that by documenting these stories, perhaps unknown by many, they would find peace and hope. I had never known anything about the Slavic people until I visited Prague. After experiencing this series I was so inspired to do more reading about the stories portrayed here in the Slav Epic. By understanding the past these people suffered and survived through you have so much more appreciation for the culture they had to fight to preserve.

Fully taking in the Slav Epic can take some time, but the experience is absolutely worth it. I hope that when it finally reopens in its new home in Moravský Krumlov people flock to see it. This is a collection of works of art that NEEDS to be seen in person to be fully appreciated. While learning about it online is great, seeing these gigantic paintings, overtake your field of vision is such an awe-inspiring experience and I truly hope you all manage to see it for yourself!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Exploring the Beauty and Meaning of Alphonse Mucha’s Masterpiece, the Slav Epic [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

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Location & Access

Letna Park is located on the Letna Hill, just above the Vlatava River’s embankments on the northern edges of the city.  The best way to reach the park is on foot. From the Old Town, head along Mikulášská, over Mánes Bridge, north along Pod Bruskou to our first stop on the tour. The walk is a straightforward 20-minutes and gives you some beautiful views along the way. You can also take the tram to Chotkovy sady station on either lines 2 or 18. To check the most updated timetables, check out this website.

History

The word “leten” from which the park gets its name means “summer camp.” Ever since the middle ages, people would gather from nearby military camps to relax in the natural vineyards and gardens once located here. The land was developed in the 19th century into a recreation area for the citizens of Prague. During the Velvet Revolution, the park found itself as the meeting point for over 750,000 protestors, who rallied against the communist government. 

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How Long to Spend Here

Walking across the park from end to end takes about 30 minutes, but since there are so many little places to stop and explore along the way, I’d advise scheduling a few hours to explore. You’ll find yourself swept away by the natural oasis which greets you here, and feeling rushed while in such a tranquil place just feels wrong.

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The Kramář’s Villa

Start your tour of the park at the western edge, near Kramář’s Villa. This is the official residence of the Prime Minister of the Czech Republic. While the building was built in 1914, it is interesting to see how the structure resembles the White House but with a distinctively Czech spin!

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Hanau Pavilion

One of the main reasons to make the trek out to this park is to see the Hanau pavilion. This building on the edge of the park looks like a minature fairytale castle. The pavilion is made to resemble a neo-baroque palace complete with fantastical ironwork, tall turrets, lanterns, dormer windows and more! Letna Park was built in 1891 during Prague’s first Global General Exhibition, or World’s Fair. The Hanau pavilion was donated by the Prince of Hanau to show off the works of the Hanau’s Metalworks Company’ from Komárov. Today, the pavilion is a beautiful restaurant where people can dine inside a stunning interior. Once you are finished eating head outside and enjoy the pavillion’s views over the city of Prague.

Statues

Throughout the park, you’ll find various statues or art installations dotted around. Although the park isn’t by any means one of the most manicured and artful gardens in the city, there are still these elements of decoration, which make exploring it all the more interesting.

Lookout Point

Walk eastward, along the southern edge of the park, and you will come upon one of the most incredible views over the Vltava River and the city of Prague. The views you get from this park are truly spectacular as its located at a higher vantage point than when inside the city itself.

Prague Metronome 

Rising up from out of the hillside, you’ll see a massive mountain of stones, which holds up a supersized metronome. Despite its magnified size, the metronome itself doesn’t appear large enough to require such a hefty stone base. And this is because it wasn’t the original occupier of this giant stone plinth.

In 1955, a massive monument to Joseph Stalin was erected here when the Czech Republic found itself under the Soviet Empire’s control. The statue was enormous and dominated the park’s skyline, with Stalin’s face staring down at the city below. Stalin’s imposing figure weighed 17,000 tonnes and required 235 granite blocks to support the weight. It ended up costing the city 140 million crowns! At the time of its construction, it was the largest group sculpture in Europe. The statue was destroyed in 1962 and was replaced with the Prague Metronome.

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About the Metronome

The metronome is 23-meters tall and was built in 1991 to mark the 100th anniversary of the General Czechoslovak Exhibition of 1891. The metronome was constructed with a kinetic mechanism, and although it doesn’t appear to move continuously, it still does works. Below the metronome is a plaque which reads, “In time, all thing pass...’. This is meant as a reminder to the people of Prague who lived under Stalin’s puritanical rule that although the memory of that dark time may still be there, time passes and things change, hopefully for the better.

Over the years, the area behind the metronome has turned into a skateboarding park, and young people from all over the city come to skate, drink and meet up with their friends. Many parts of the stone wall have been painted with graffiti over time, although this seems in keeping with the spirit of rebellion of the park.

Cukrárna Alchymista

If you’re looking for one of the most charming places to get a bite to eat, head just outside the park over to Cukrárna Alchymista. This cafe feels like dining inside a cozy cottage in the middle of the city. The food on offer like being served a home-cooked meal by your grandma. The restaurant specializes in some decadent desserts. The best place to enjoy them is out in the backyard garden, under the lush greenery.

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Letna Park Carousel

Heading back into the park, walk down to the Letná Carousel or Letenský kolotoč. This is Europe’s oldest floored-carousel, built-in 1892. But today, it remains boarded up as the mechanisms have long since fallen out of order, and it requires a significant amount of repairs to get up and running. The horses used inside the carousel were given real horse hair hides and manes, making them almost eerily lifelike! The carousel was operated by a hand crank and was initially located in Vinohrady. Although the carousel has been boarded up, the beautiful building it is housed is still stunning to look at as this renovation is the first of many in its restoration.

Letná Mansion

Steps from the carousel, you’ll find the Letná Mansion. This grand chateau is located in the area where Prague’s old church vineyards would have been discovered. In 1891 the neo-renaissance building was constructed to house a restaurant for visitors to enjoy refreshments while wandering the peaceful orchards. Even hundreds of years ago, visitors were coming here to escape the city.

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Letná Beer Garden

By far, the most popular sport in the park is the vast outdoor Letná Beer Garden. The simple rows of communal tables are located under the trees right along the park’s edge, providing guests with a panoramic view of the city below. Locals of all ages, and a few knowing tourists, gather in the beer gardens throughout the year, joyfully filling the park with the sound of laughter and merry conversation.

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Local Czech beer on draft will run you merely $3 USD, so you can really get a lot for a little here. There is also a small bistro nearby where you can sample traditional Czech food along with your beer!

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Bruselský Pavilion

The easternmost point in the park is dominated by the modernist Bruselský Pavilion. This pavilion was designed in 1958 and made famous by its appearance at EXPO 58 in Brussels. After the exposition in Brussels, it was brought here to Letná park. The architects F. Cubr, J. Hrubý and Z. Pokorný designed the building to be modular. It could be erected and dismantled as required. The glass and steel materials used in its creation were a popular aesthetic of the time. Despite being over 70 years old, it looks like it was plucked from the future. The building ended up winning the Grand Prize for the best pavilion in 1958.

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Čech Bridge

To finish the tour, let’s head to the Čech Bridge. This spectacular art nouveau bridge, built-in 1905, connects Holešovice and the Old Town. Walking down from the park, you are lead towards the most grandiose set of stairs, usually covered in graffiti. On the other side of the road are a series of angels atop two tall columns, beaconing you towards them. These sculptures were made by sculptors Klusáček, Wurzel, Popp and Amort. These designers were passionate about creating the bridge with strong aesthetics, and today it is the only Art Nouveau style bridge in the Czech Republic.

I love the view you get crossing this bridge. You have both the Old Town and Lesser Quarter spread out in front of you to your right. River cruise boats float up and down the river here, their residence sticking their heads out the window to get their first look at the city. As you continue walking, you can see Prague Castle begin to poke its head out above the trees. This is a great spot to end the tour while you stand and admire the path you just took to get here.

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While you might not find this park on many top ten lists, it’s a great way to explore one of the more ubiquitous parts of the city which isn’t just there for the tourists!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post How to Escape the Crowds in Prague, a Guide to Letna Park first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. The Route
2. How Long is the Walk?
3. Tips
4. Where to Stay
5. History
6. Festivities & Customs
7. Starting Point: Republic Square
8. Municipal House
9. Powder Tower
10. Celetná Lane
11. House symbols
12. House at the Golden Angel 
13. #36 Celetná Lane | Mint House
14. The House at the Black Madonna
15. #12 Celetna, Palace of Harasov
16. Old Town Square
17. Týn Church
18. Astronomical Clock
19. Malé Náměstí
20. Rott House
21. Karlova
22. House At The Golden Well
23. Křižovnické Square
24. Old Bridge Tower Gate
25. Charles Bridge
26. Lesser Town Gate
27. Mostecka Lane
28. St. Nicholas Church
29. Nerudova Street
30. Úvoz
31. Pohořelec
32. Loretánská Street
33. Hradcany Square
34. Prague Castle
35. St. Vitus Cathedral
36. St. Wenceslas and St. Vitus
37. St. Wenceslas Chapel
38. Old Royal Palace

The Route

Along this one stretch of road, you’ll find some of the most important landmarks in the city. The Royal Route marks the route which the kings and queens of Prague would have travelled during their coronation procession. They would have begun in Old Town, starting where the former Royal Court was located. The Royal Route continued through to the Charles Bridge, into Mala Strana and finishing at Prague Castle. Despite the route itself being a historical part of the city, the naming convention for the “Royal Route” was a modern tourism invention. The route was named in 1955 when renovations took place to preserve what is now a historically protected pathway.

How Long is the Walk?

The entire span of the Royal Route is about 4 km. While parts of the road in Old Town are relatively flat, the path in Mala Strana is slightly uphill. The Royal Route walk should take no longer than an hour if you didn’t stop. I would plan more time to stop along the way and take in the sights. There are so many unique places to visit along this route.

Tips

Be warned that the parts of town that the Royal Route passes through are super touristy. If you’re looking for something to eat I would always recommend heading off the tourist track. Even just heading off the route down one side street will often make such a difference.

Even though the walking tour isn’t very long, it’s important to wear proper walking shoes as the roads are very uneven and the second half of the tour is a little hilly.

Where to Stay

If you’re looking for a great place to stay along the Royal Route, you’ll be happily surprised to learn that a few of the old historic homes along the route have been transformed into hotels. So you can stay on the very Route where courtiers and dignitaries would have stayed hundreds of years ago. The Grand Hotel Bohemia is a wonderful luxury hotel right on the Route Route with terraces facing out onto the city’s skyline. There really is no better place to get a panoramic view of the city while still in the comforts of your own room. If you’re looking for a more budget-friendly option the Hotel at the Golden Key is located on the historic Nerudova Street. The suites are clean and simple but if you get a room with a city view you’ll be enchanted by the people watching along famed Nerudova street.

History

The very first coronation of a king in Prague took place on June 15th, 1086. But during this time, the seat of the Bohemian kings in Prague was located in Vyšehrad. It wasn’t until 1344 when Emperor Charles IV, the future king, began the creation of a new royal court and residence in the place where we find Prague Castle that the new Royal Route was established. Charles designed his coronation route to go from the Old Royal Court towards his newly created St. Vitus Cathedral, the jewel of his empire. It was there that he would be crowned. Unfortunately, Charles died before the construction was completed and the first king to travel along the coronation route was Sigismund of Luxembourg in 1438.

Since then, 26 kings and 28 queens have taken this same route during their coronations. During the coronation, members of the clergy and royal court were in attendance and members of neighbouring countries who wanted to show their support for their allies would join the procession as well. The last coronation parade to take place along this route was in 1836.

Festivities & Customs

During the coronation parade, people who owned houses along the route would go out of their way to decorate their homes. This was meant to impress and entertain the king or queen and their courtiers. A richly decorated house or palace was a sign to the new rulers of their loyalty to the realm. It was a way to create a great first impression. People would throw flowers against the backdrop of the bells which rang out across the city. Gunfire would sound, and there was singing which filled the squares. While you might think this is all a bit antiquated, think of all the celebrations held for the Queen of England’s Jubilee. Or even the wedding of Prince Harry and Megan Markle. Even today, we can see traces of these historical celebrations in our modern society.

Rituals

Along the route, the party would stop in front of various buildings where city representatives, guild members, and clergymen would make speeches in honour of the new leader. As the King rode down the street, he was expected to toss coins to the people. The ritual was said to ensure the new king or queen would bring prosperity to their country. It was also seen as good luck to release many prisoners, of petty crimes, during the coronation. This was seen as an act of compassion by the new ruler. All these generous actions were meant to strengthen the connection between the new ruler and their people. Too often, the common folk felt so disconnected from their king, as the wealthy and the poor lived two disparate lives. But, in this one moment, they could actually see each other face to face and hopefully make a connection.

Legends of the Royal Route

Sometimes there were downright odd ways in which the people would show their loyalty to the realm. In one instance, in 1527, four men jumped into the Vlatava river during Ferdinand I‘s coronation. This was meant as an act to show devotion to the king. Unfortunately, one of the men who wasn’t a strong swimmer ended up drowning!

In another case, a herd of camels was brought along the route by their Moorish masters. This caused a massive stir as most people in Prague had never seen these animals before and thought of them as a real spectacle. Regrettably, the camels got more attention than the king (which no doubt was quite problematic after the fact). In the baroque period, during a time when high-drama was in vogue, theatrical and musical performances erupted throughout the city. It seemed like on every street corner you could catch someone putting on a real show! I can only imagine who amazingly exciting this would have been for the citizens and how much joy the coronation would have brought to the city.

Starting Point: Republic Square

Start your tour at Republic Square. This was the spot where everyone in the royal court would gather to meet the new ruler and set off along the Royal Route. Republic Square was originally where you’d find the former castle moat. The moat divided the Old and New towns and was also surrounded by the old medieval walls. In the 13th century, a grand Romanesque Church of St. Benedict was constructed. Its outer courtyard would have been where the members of the royal court would have gathered before the coronation. 

Although the church has since been demolished, the area where it once stood serves as a large open square today. The square isn’t too much to write home about now, but try to imagine how it might have looked in the 13th century; a parade of royal carriages, decorated horses, courtiers dressed to the nines and the king and queen in all their finery ready to greet the awaiting crowds.

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Municipal House

The fantastical Art Nouveau masterpiece called the Municipal House is now located where the former Royal Court once stood. In 1383 Wenceslas IV had his old royal court built here. It wasn’t until the rule of king Vladislav Jagiellonský when the court finally moved to the other side of town during the construction of the new Prague Castle complex.

Fire at the Royal Court

The old Royal Court contained residences for the king and his courtiers, a grand spa and a lush royal garden. The court even had a menagerie where the king kept his prized possession, one of his white lions. Unfortunately, in 1689, a huge fire broke out across the city of Prague, and the old Royal Court caught fire. It suffered a massive amount of fire damage and was left in disrepair. It later became a military barracks in 1777 before was finally demolished in the 19th century. The property was quickly bought up and the new Municipal House was built in its place.

Despite the fact that there are no architectural remnants of the old royal court here, you can see a large plaque on the exterior of the Municipal House dedicated to its history. It reads, “Here, in the King’s court, from 1454 a representative of the Czech national idea in the religious and state sense, lived and worked…At that time, there was a busy center, where messages from foreign countries met and where conventions and state assemblies took place.”

Coronatin Day

On the day of the coronation, the festivities would begin between 6 am and 7 am. The bells of St. Vitus Cathedral would ring out, announcing the start of the procession. The king or queen would be dressed by their chief chamberlain. They wore precious coronation robes, worn only during this event.

Powder Tower

Continuing along the street, until you’ll come to a busy intersection, dominated by the magnificent gothic Powder Tower. Powder Tower was built in 1475 and is the only piece of the old medieval city walls that have been preserved. Originally there were 13 different gates that provided entry into the old city of Prague. Powder Tower is one of the only remaining entrance. There is something truly awe-inspiring as you stand here looking up at this gateway. This stone arch has stood here greeting guests, just like you and I, for over 500 years. The name of the tower comes from the 17th century. During this period the previously ornamental tower was employed as a gunpowder store.

Josef Mocker

The current appearance of the tower dates back to the late 19th century. The facade was restored by architect Josef Mocker. Mocker worked with famous Czech sculptors to create the statues which decorate the exterior. On the first level, just above the arched entrance, are the statues of King Jiří of Poděbrady and King Vladislav II. On either side of the seated kings are a series of coats of arms which represent the territories the kings ruled over. Statues of Bohemian patron saints can be found on the level above the kings, divided by a series of angels with golden wings.

On the east side of the gate is a large bust of a knight with the Latin inscription, “Behold! Prague. For the honest, I am a mother, to the deceivers I am a step-mother; let those flee away, and may those who want good come.” On the western side, there is similar encryption, which states, “Dear citizen, forbear the unworthy people living without laws from harming me, a fine receptacle.”

The Silver Line

As you pass under the Powder Tower, look down on the ground and see if you can spot one of the “silver line” inscriptions. These round tablets are embedded into the cobblestone road. This marks the pathway of the Royal Route and will help you guide your way.

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Celetná Lane

Passing under the Powder Tower, you will find yourself walking along Celetná Lane. Celetná Lane is one of the oldest streets in Prague. The word “Celetná” is the name for a particular kind of bun which was sold in a famous bakery located here. Almost everyone in the city ate bread as one of their everday staples and the eventially people began to refer to the street simply as “Celetna”.

Celetna Lane was originally a popular trading route which merchants would travel along when entering into the city. This meant that the route saw its fair share of money came through their doors. Merchant needed places to sleep and quickly hotels and inns started popping up. The street quickly becomes one of the most prestigious areas of the city.

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House symbols

Celetna Lane is home to some of Prague famous house signs. Long before the city established an organized numbering system for buildings in the city, people would find their way around town by looking out for symbols. These symbols sometimes referred to the kind of business which was practiced within. Places like the House at the Golden Horseshoe were an easy way for people to find a blacksmith. House symbols sometimes were made for the heraldry of the family who owned the property. Other times house symbols like a black sun or white peacock were more allegorical. If you’d like to learn more about these House Signs you can check out our walking tours of Old Town or Mala Strana.

House at the Golden Angel 

On the corner of the Králodvorská street stands the mint green building of the house At the Golden Angel. In the center of the entryway is a large golden angel marking the spot. This building, which modernized over the years, was once a popular coaching-inn where guests to the city would stay. A popular spot to stay during a coronation as you would have front row seats to the parade. Wolfgang Mozart even stayed here when he visited Prague.

#36 Celetná Lane | Mint House

One of the most fantastical facades along Celetná Lane, found at #36, was the Mint House, used as a bank since the early middle ages. But the current facade dates back to the high baroque period when such allegorical statues, as you’ll find on the exterior, were popular. Years later, the building was converted into a courthouse. Famed author Franz Kafka worked in Prague as a lawyer, and this was where he would have come to work.

The House at the Black Madonna

On the corner of Ovocný trh and Celetna Lane, look for a golden cage on the outer edge of a building. Inside you’ll find the precious icon of the Black Madonna. This marks the House at the Black Madonna, one of the first examples of cubist architecture in Prague. The house was built in 1911. The architect was desperate to employ the use of cubism in his design, but the location of the house was a problem. Since it was located on this historical laneway, the city council wouldn’t allow him to go hog wild with an uber-modern, and seemingly abstract design. So, architect Josef Gocar employed a mixture of baroque and Cubist architecture which formed his final vision and satisfied both his creative desires and the council.

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#12 Celetna, Palace of Harasov

The Hrzan Palace of Tarasov is one of the most impressive buildings along Celetna street. Built in 1702, the building was once a Romanesque manor. Elements of the old home can still be found in the basement cellars of the palace. The current facade was designed by architect G. B. Alliprandi, who is responsible for some of Prague’s other great monuments such as; Czernin Palace, Lobkowicz Palace, the Plague Column of the Holy Trinity and Sternberg Palace. The building is famous for the richly sculpted gargoyles and busts which face out onto the street. Perhaps designed to greet the eyes of the incoming royal procession.

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Old Town Square

The royal procession would continued on, passing through the Old Town Square. The old town square was originally founded in the 12th century as the city’s primary marketplace. Traders from all over Prague and indeed, all over Europe, would travel here to trade goods. No other city in Europe boasted such a beautiful scenic town centre. The square is surrounded on all sides by fantastical pastel stucco buildings, notably taller than most historic buildings found in other European cities.

Týn Church

The most imposing building is, without a doubt, the gothic Church of Our Lady of Týn. The distinctive twin black Gothic spires loom over the Týn Courtyard. The spiked turrets are so iconic of the city and can be seen all across Prague. This 14th-century church would have been an important stop for the procession. Priests would have come here to greet the new king and bestow blessings upon him.

Astronomical Clock

Perhaps one of the most famous sights in Prague, the royal procession would, of course, pass the great Astronomical Clock. The Astronomical Clock is one of Prague’s BIGGEST attractions, or at least that’s what the hoards of people crowding around it would make you believe. The clock is housed on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall and has been there, in part, since 1410.

Legend says that if something bad were to befall the clock, Prague itself would fall. Although it is just a superstitious rumour, it’s been enough to keep the clock well protected and preserved after all these years. The king, which was the supreme ruler of Prague, would have been charged with protecting the clock from damage or destruction. Passing by this clock would have been a right of passage for any future king.

Malé Náměstí

Malé Náměstí, or the “little square,” is the younger sister to the famous Old Town Square. This intimate trapezoid plaza is almost hidden away and is one of my favourite places in Prague. Everywhere you look you are absolutely surrounded by beautiful houses. In the center of the square, in the middle of rows of cafe tables and chairs, is a gorgeous fountain. Covered in a wrought-iron cage is a golden-crowned statue of the lion of Bohemia from the 16th century. 

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Rott House

One of the most famous houses on the square is the Rott’s house at No. 142. The house was originally a Romanesque construction built in the second half of the 12th century. The cellars in the basement still contain elements from this romanesque construction. The current appearance of the Rott House has a neo-renaissance facade with richly decorated allegorical images of crafts and economic activities painted on the side. Originally the house was called the House at the Three Roses. It was named for the iconic three white roses painted on the top of the facade. This house was once an old hardware store but is also home to one of Prague’s most infamous ghost stories!

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Karlova

From the little square, you turn down the narrow Karlova Lane. While this street today is undoubtedly one of the most touristy parts of the city, there is still so much history steeped behind these walls. These authentic stories predate the souvenir stalls and tacky “Czech” cafes. Most of the buildings along this narrow alley date back to the gothic and romanesque period but display “new” baroque pastel facades. While “Karlova” is the current name for this snaking street, in the 12th century, it went by the names Zlatnická, Ševcovská, and Nožířská. Each of these names referred to the kind of businesses that the area was filled with. Respectively they were goldsmith lane, shoemaker lane and knife lane.

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House At The Golden Well

As you continue weaving your way through the crowds, make your way to House At The Golden Well. You’ll notice this building immediately as it has one of the most fantastical facades on the street. The exterior is covered in gilt statues and fantastical ornamentation. Legend has it that below the house is a secret cellar. Supposedly the well in the basement hides a secret gold treasure. But anyone who has tried to find the treasure has met a grizzly end. To learn more about the ghosts and legends of the old town square, check out my spooky walking tour.

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Křižovnické Square

Coming out of Karlova street, you pop out right in front of the Charles Bridge. Křižovnické Square is one of the smaller squares in the city but no less grand, in my opinion. It faces out onto the Charles Bridge, the Klementium and the stunning Vltava river. In the center of the square is a dominating statue of King Charles IV. Charles IV himself would have passed by this very spot on his way to be crowned at St. Vitus Cathedral. King Charles IV founded one of Prague’s universities, and surrounding the statue are allegorical images of the university faculties; medicine, law and philosophy.

Old Bridge Tower Gate

Before you step onto the bridge, you must pass through the Old Bridge Tower Gate. The gate welcomes passersby into the Little Quarter. The dark brick aged over time has turned almost black. The gate was constructed in 1380. When it was built it served as a fortification against invaders although today it is merely ornamental. Its Gothic features loom down upon you as you walk underneath. Above the archway are several royal crests. Resting atop them are statues of various religious figures, each one holding a shield with a different heraldric symbol emblazoned upon it. One can only imagine how lavishly decorated this gateway would have been during the royal coronations!

Charles Bridge

The Charles Bridge is one of the most spectacular bridges found anywhere in the world. If you’re lucky enough to come here early in the morning or later in the day hopefully you will find it less than stacked with tourists. That way you can really soak in the grandeur of this incredible place. Throughout the rest of the day, the bridge is packed edge to edge with tourists. If it is, just imagine that this bustling and raucous atmosphere was similar to that of the great crowds walking with the procession of the king.

History of the Charles Bridge

The Charles Bridge is the oldest bridge in Prague. The bridge was constructed in 1357 under the watchful eye of King Charles IV. The bridge is 621 meters long and almost a whopping 10 meters wide! On either side of the bridge are two guard towers, once used for protection, now they only serve as a fascinating decoration for the tourists.

As you walk along the bridge, you come across dozens of statues and statuaries in Baroque and Gothic styles. They were all once original pieces created in the 16th and 17th centuries but now are replaced with replicas to keep better in the weather. The statues depict various saints and patrons who were of great importance during the time of its construction.

Lesser Town Gate

Steppin off of the bridge, you come to the Lesser Town Gate. The two towers greet you as you enter the “Little Quarter”. This lofty structure with a wide arched gateway is flanked on either side by two enormous towers of differing heights. The non-uniformity of these towers always bothered me (I’m someone who likes symmetry), but over time I’ve found the oddity to be quite charming. The lower tower is called Judith’s Tower. It was built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century and once connected the old bridge from Mala Strana to Old Town before the Charles Bridge was built.

In 1591 the bridge tower was renovated in the new Renaissance style and decorated with ornate gables and the trendiest art form of the time: sgraffito. Sgraffito is a form of decoration made by scratching through a surface to reveal a lower layer of a contrasting colour, typically done in plaster or stucco. 

The second tower, aptly named, is the Higher Tower. It was built in the Gothic style as a pair to the Charles Bridge’s Tower of Parler, located on the other side. At the peak of the arched gateway, you’ll see various symbols of Prague. There are the emblems with the imperial eagle, the Czech lion and the symbol of Upper Lusatia; below them, are all the emblems of the Old Town and the Lesser Town.

Mostecka Lane

Mostecka Lane is one of the oldest streets in Prague, with buildings dating back to the middle ages. I absolutely love the picturesque nature of this street, with the wonderfully decorated houses along the edges leading up to the great Nicholas Church at the end of the street. Walking along, I can imagine people hanging out the windows along the street, throwing flowers at the court and the king as they passed by.

St. Nicholas Church

St. Nicholas Church, with its three masterful copper-topped roofs, stands high above Mala Strana. It is known across Europe as an absolute architectural marvel and one of the most exceptional examples of Prague Baroque design. Whereas St. Vitus is an example of the most beautiful Gothic architecture, St. Nicholas provides a glimpse into the opulence, which is true baroque.

The church of St. Nicholas was built in 1704 by the father-son duo Christoph and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer. Saint Nicholas is known as the protector of children and the patron saint of sailors. One of Prague’s most famous nobles, Count Wenceslaus Kolowrat-Liebsteinsky, was the church’s single largest patron. Over the years, he donated over 178,5000 gold pieces to the construction of the church. Despite never having a king in the family, their influence over Bohemia’s rule was significant. It seems fitting that a symbol of their dominance and power would overshadow the court procession, and it continued on its way to the castle.

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Nerudova Street

Continue along Mostecka Lane behind the church and walk north until you reach Nerudova street. While Old Town, I think, gets more attention, it’s streets like Nerudova, which solidifies my belief that the Little Quarter is the far superior part of the city (although truthfully, I love both a lot). Nerudova gets its name from the famous Czech poet and journalist Jan Neruda. Jan Neruda lived in the area and was also very notable for writing stories about the Little Quarter and the people who lived there.

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House Symbols

On either side of the street, you can find facades bearing the house symbols. These insignias helped identify businesses and homes hundreds of years before the invention of the modern house numbering system. The first incarnation of the road was built in the 13th century.

The current layout of Nerudova, which leads to Prague Castle, was redesigned in the 17th century after the Great Fire of 1541. The fire resulted in the destruction of so many houses around Nerudova, which allowed the city to redesign the area and build newer, more elaborate homes.

Úvoz

As you continue westward, Nerudova will transform into Úvoz street. Unlike the previous street, the houses here are only on the right side of the street. On the left side of the road, the walkway opens up out across this beautiful vista. You can see the entirety of Petrin Hill and much of the cities of Prague across the river.

The street initially went by the name Strahovská Cesta, named after Strahov Monastery, located just at the top of the hill. The current name “Úvoz” in Czech means “ravine.” Many people will steer away from this street as it veers away from the tourist track and is a bit steep. But this area is one of Prague’s oldest streets and is a must-see for the royal route. I can imagine how the king would have used this part of the procession to pause and look out over the city.

Pohořelec

As you reach the end of Úvoz, you come onto Pohořelec square. This is where the procession would make a sharp turn towards Prague Castle. The name of the street, Pohořelec, means “the Scene of Fire” in Czech. A haunting name for a street but with good reason. This area of the city had burned down multiple times over the years and seemed to be damned to suffer fire after fire. Perhaps naming the street after the occurrence was a way of dispelling the curse.

Loretánská Street

Turning up Loretánská street, the procession would pass Loretto Church. The great Loreta Church is a pilgrimage site where thousands of people make their own procession every year. The church acts as the final stop during Prague’s Epiphany Procession of the Three Kings.

Most of the houses along the street date back to 1742 and onward since the fire swept through this area and destroyed all previous buildings. The only building remaining along this lane, which remembers the early days of the procession, is the Hradčany Town Hall. This building was established in 1598. Outside the town hall, several of the Little Quarter city representatives would have gathered to greet the new King of Bohemia and make speeches in his honour.

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Hradcany Square

Hradčanské náměstí or Hradcany Square is a large open space at the top of Prague’s Lesser Quarter. This part of the square was connected to Prague castle by the great Matyáš Gate. This allowed the royal court’s noble members to quickly come and go from their palaces in the square to the King’s new residence. All the buildings here are incredibly beautiful manors. These elegant houses were meant for Prague’s high society. This would perhaps have been one of the most lusciously decorated parts of town during the coronation. Dedicated courtiers would have pulled out all the stops to impress the new king and queen.

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The middle of the square is dominated by a great plague column. Plague columns were a popular piece of decorations for the courts in the 15th century. They were designed to praise the Virgin Mary for saving their people from the plague which ravaged Europe. The plague column represented the end of the disease and the resolve of the population.

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Prague Castle

Prague Castle is more like a village, rather than one singular castle. Inside these stone walls are some of Prague’s most infamous architectural masterpieces. Combined into a compound, this mini-city is now known as “Prague Castle.” Prague Castle takes up over 70,000 square metres. The various buildings inside date as far back as the 9th century. Hidden within these walls, seemingly ubiquitous townhomes, storefronts, and little passageways have been left to the passage of time, almost untouched from the modern world. This timeless atmosphere is a big draw for tourists. Each year, more than 1.8 million footsteps tread on these cobblestones.

The earliest architectural research shows that the castle was founded around 880 by Prince Bořivoj. The large, wooden walls surrounding the castle when it was first constructed were built as a defence against incoming invaders and enemies. Over the years, wooden walls were replaced with stone, and many of the original stones are still standing today. Despite these countermeasures, Prague suffered many, many wars over the years. As such, much of the castle complex has been destroyed and rebuilt over time. 

St. Vitus Cathedral

Dominating the inside Prague Castle is the great St. Vitus Cathedral, looming overhead. St. Vitus is one of the best examples of high Gothic architecture in Prague and whose silhouette creates the iconic skyline when looking up at Prague Castle from down below. This would have been the finish line for the procession. This was where the new king would be crowned. He would step into the church a noble but knowing he would step out, a king.

St. Wenceslas and St. Vitus

Wenceslas I was the King of Bohemia from 921 to 935. During his reign, the people of Bohemia had not all yet converted to Christianity. The Emperor, in his efforts to convert the Slavic people to this new religion, gifted St. Wenceslas with a holy relic; the forearm of St. Vitus. St. Vitus has a Slavic name, and the Emperor thought this would help the Slavic people accept Christianity. Even today, St. Vitus’ relic is seen as one of Prague’s most precious treasures.

St. Wenceslas Chapel

The most important area of the Cathedral during the coronation is St. Wenceslas Chapel. Inside, relics of the great Saint of Prague are still housed. The lower portions of the walls here are decorated with over 1,300 semi-precious stones and paintings depicting the Passion of Jesus from 1372–1373. You can see a small door with seven locks in the corner of the room. This door leads to the ‘Crown Chamber, ‘ which contains the precious Crown Jewels used in the coronation.

During the coronation, members of the clergy and the high ranking dignitaries would enter the chamber to take out the crown and sceptre required for the coronation ceremony. The lovely chapel was where the ceremony would occur. The entire room would be decorated in red and white drapery making its already elaborate interior all the most regal. Inside the chapel, the new royal would be blessed with holy oil by the highest-ranking priest. When the ceremony was finished he would emerge from the small chapel to the cheers of the adoring public gathered in the nave of the cathedral. 

The first section of the presbytery behind the altar was where the crown’s most important guests would sit during the service. From here they could watch as the new sovereign would make two oaths as the newly crowned ruler. One was to Prague’s people and the other a promise to the clergy. Music rang throughout the enormous hall, and once the ceremony was completed, a wave of joyous celebration would wash over the crowd. Trumpets and drums would play as the newly crowned monarch walked back out of the church into the courtyard where he would be greeted by all citizens of Prague.

Old Royal Palace

The party would then make their way to the final stop on tour, the Old Royal Palace. This building was first erected in the 9th century but has since been through various renovations. Although you can only view parts of the palace, the grandest part of it is Vladislav Hall. This would have been where the grand coronation feast would have been held. The vaulted, late gothic ceilings in this room are the only piece of the original building which still remains. One can imagine how during the coronoation feast the hall would have been filled with brightly coloured tables cloth, shimmering satin dresses spinning about the room. The tables would be filled to bursting with extravagant food laid out for the nobility there to eat, drink and be merry.

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During coronations, the walls were decorated in the same red and white drapery found in the chapel. No doubt, the party would have lasted long into the night, with members of the court stumbling home to their palaces in Hradcany Square as the morning sun was just breaching the horizon.

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This brings us to the end of the procession and the end of the tour. I hope you have enjoyed our own walked down memory lane in the city of Prague. We leave this tour in the center of Prague Castle and the surrounding neighbourhood of Mala Strana. This is one of the most beautiful parts of town. If you are interested in exploring it in more detail, I have some fantastic guided tours to lead the way.

Let me know in the comments what your favourite spot along the walk was or if you have any questions about the procession itself!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

References

Prague City Line | Kralovskacesta | Prague.cz

The post Easy and Free Walking Tour of Prague’s Famous Royal Route first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

In 1784, four independent boroughs in Bohemia came together to form the city of Prague. Today, each of these districts feels like their own unique area of the town, whose architecture, atmosphere and layout change as you move throughout them. The four neighbourhoods are Hradčany (the Castle District), Malá Strana (the Lesser Quarter below Prague Castle), Staré Město (Old Town) and Nové Město (New Town). 

Hradčany is such a beautiful part of town. It’s fantastically easy to wander around. If you’re not in a rush to get back to the old city after exploring Prague Castle, I highly recommend taking a walk through this part of town. Although there is a myriad of impressive buildings to venture inside (should time allow) my favourite thing to do in this area is simply to walk around aimlessly and admire all the romantic-looking houses which dot the streets.

Table Of Contents

1. Location
2. History
3. Access
4. Zámecké schody
5. Paradise Garden
6. Hradčany Square 
7. Schwarzenberg Palace
8. Salm Palace
9. Statue of Tomas Garrigue Masaryk
10. The New Royal Palace
11. Archbishop Palace
12. Šternberský Palace
13. Martinic Palace
14. Tuscany Palace
15. Loretánská street 
16. Hradčany Town Hall
17. U Černého vola
18. Strahov Monastery
19. Basilica of the Assumption
20. Strahov Library
21. Černín Palace
22. Loreto Sanctuary
23. Novy Svet
24. Church of St. John of Nepomuk
25. Vstup Jelení Příkop or Deer Moat
26. Powder Bridge
27. Prague Riding School
28. The Royal Garden
29. Royal Ball Game Hall
30. Singing Fountain
31. Queen Anne's Summer Palace

Location

Hradčany or the Castle District is located on the Vltava river’s west bank, above the Mala Strana/Lesser Quarter. This area is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Prague and wandering around its noble historical palaces, romantic nooks, peaceful squares and beautiful lookouts feel like stepping back in time.

History

The settlement of Hradčany was established in the 13th century. Unlike the Old Town and Lesser Quarter, which were official cities, Hradčany wasn’t an official town and developed in a much more haphazard manner. In 1598 Emperor Rudolf II finally promoted it to the status of a city, and the district’s situation began to change. More and more wealthy people began to move in. Either to be closer to the palace as a sign of their devotion to the crown or perhaps they were a royal worker who moved in to be closer to work. 

Because the area of Hradčany was located near Prague Castle, it gained the title of being a “Royal Town” in the 14th century shortly before New Town was founded by Charles IV. Because of this status, residents living here were all relatively wealthy. The owners could afford to hire the best artisans to create some of Prague’s most stunning structures. Hradčany was an independent city until 1784, when it became part of Prague’s unified royal capital.

Access

We’re going to start the tour just outside Prague Castle, assuming you’ll be taking this tour after exploring that part of town. If you’re making a separate trip to Hradčany, you can follow the same path. The best way to access the start of the walking tour directly is by taking the tram to Malostranské náměstí station. The first stop on the guided tour is only a few minutes from the tram stop.

Zámecké schody

We start our tour along with the steps of Zámecké schody, or the Castle Stairs. This pedestrian-only street was built in 1278. The name translates into “the steep road” in Czech as the original stairs that used to be here until the 1870s were perilously steep. Today the patterned stone steps are flanked on either side by beautiful old stone walls and a gorgeous view across the city of Prague.

Paradise Garden

When you reach the top of the stairs, head over the right to a small green area called the “Paradise Garden.” Up here you’ll find a series of benches along the grass where you can sit and look out over the city. It’s a spectacular viewpoint and one not to be missed!

Hradčany Square 

Head back out to Hradčanské street, where you’ll find the statue of St. Filip Neri at the intersection of the stairs and the road. From here, head towards the grand Hradčany Square. Hradčany Square is one of the most scenic areas of the neighbourhood, full of charming pastel palaces and houses everywhere you look. The square faces onto Prague castle, and from here you can see the towers of St. Vitus Cathedral looming overhead.

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The middle of the square is dominated by a great plague column. Plague columns were a popular decorative addition to squares in the 15th century. They were designed to praise the Virgin Mary for saving the people of Prague from the great plague. Plague columns represented the end of the epidemic and were thought to prove the resolve of the population of Prague. This statue was designed by Maxmilián Brokof, one of the most famed sculptors of the Baroque era. Even the plague columns of this district were made by the most illustrious artists.

Schwarzenberg Palace

On the south side of the square is Schwarzenberg Palace. This elegant Renaissance palace from the 16th century is covered in the most intricate geometric design. The pattern is made to look like a pyramidal relief, but if you go up to it and touch it, you’ll see that this is just a trick of the eye. This effect is called sgraffito and is a painting technique used to create an optical illusion of a three-dimensional texture on a flat surface. The effect is mesmerizing. And unless you touch the walls you’d think the entire facade was meticulously carved.

The palace was built for Count Jan Jr. from Lobkovice in 1545. Schwarzenberg Palace is now home to the National Gallery of Prague. If you choose to venture inside, you’ll be able to see some of the original painted ceiling frescoes. One of the most famous treasures of the building is the restored frescoes of The Judgment of Paris and the Conquest of Troy.

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The art housed inside the palace contains paintings from the Renaissance done by Bohemian artists as well as Old Masters. Artists such as; Hans von Aachen, Lucas Cranach, Adriaen de Vries, Albrecht Dürer, El Greco, Francisco José Goya, Hans Holbein, Peter Paul Rubens, and others are featured in here.

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Salm Palace

Adjacent to the Schwarzenberg Palace is the Salm Palace or Salmovský Palace. The Salm palace is easily identifiable by the large “S” monogram on the gate. This building, built in the classical style, was initially made for the Archbishop Vilém Florentin, or Prince of Salm-Salm, in 1800.

The older palace, which once stood here, was renovated in the 19th century, as was the fashion during that period. It was used throughout the later part of the 19th century as the communist party’s headquarters. Today, it is used as a part of the National Gallery. This part of the gallery is where you can find paintings from the 19th century and onward. This part of the gallery is known for their abstract art installations and modern art collection.

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Statue of Tomas Garrigue Masaryk

Just outside the Salm Palace stands the great bronze statue of Monument to Tomas Garrigue Masaryk. He stands atop a tall plinth, looking out at the New Royal Palace with the view of Prague’s city spread out behind him. Tomas Garrigue Masaryk was a Czechoslovak statesman, philosopher, sociologist and pedagogue. But most importantly, he was the first president of the Czechoslovak Republic and was seen as the founding father of Czechoslovakia.

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The New Royal Palace

The New Royal Palace is a formation of cream coloured buildings set against the eastern part of Hradčany Square. The royal family moved into these apartments during the Renaissance when their old Royal Palace, dating back tot he 12th century, was no longer serviceable. The multitude of structures was renovated to have one unified facade under the rule of Empress Maria Theresa. She felt they looked much too much like a hodgepodge of architectural styles. 

The enormous gates that guard the entrance feature a series of wrestlers called the “Gate of the Titans.” This gate leads you into the Court of Honour, although today, the Titans’ Gate is only used as an exit, so you cannot enter via this gate. The wrestling statues were carved by Ignác Fr. Platzer in 1762. On either side of the gladiators are statues of a lion and an eagle atop a great column.

Inside the Court of Honour, we find the central Matthias Gate. The Matthias Gate was once the ceremonial gate used as an entrance to Prague Castle in the early part of the 17th century. Atop the gate is a Latin inscription in gold that gives the date of its construction, 1614. At one point, this gate would have been freestanding as the wings on either side hadn’t been built yet. When they were added, the entrance was redesigned to be incorporated into the buildings.

Archbishop Palace

On the north side of the square, you’ll find the Archbishop Palace, named as such because it was built for the Archbishops of Prague. The previous Archbishop house was located further south in the Lesser Quarter. People would rave about the manor’s opulence, and even King Wenceslas himself apparently envied the splendour. Unfortunately, the palace burned down in the 15th century. 

In 1561, Emperor Ferdinand I donated a house around Prague castle, which the archbishops could use as their new residence. The building went through round after round of redesigns and renovations. Each subsequent archbishop wanted to add their own personal flourish. Their palace’s current incarnation is from the Rococo era, seen clearly by the scrolling curves, white and cream pastel colours, sculpted moulding and dramatic figures. In the center of the facade is a coat of arms inserted under the cornice. On either side are two allegorical figures of Force and Faith by sculptor Tomas Seidan.

Archbishop’s Chapel

Although the palace’s interior is not accessible to visitors, inside the holy chapel is a stirring painting of the Crucifixion. It is said the artist who painted the picture hired a young beggar to pose as Jesus. The artist became frustrated and felt like the beggar didn’t look like he was suffering enough to be painted appropriately as Jesus on the cross. So, the artist stabbed the beggar through the heart to paint his agony-filled face. After the painting was finished, the artists committed suicide, unable to live with what he had done. But the picture still hangs in the chapel to this day, and the anguish upon the man’s face in the portrait is utterly haunting.

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Šternberský Palace

Walking under the archway to the left of the Archbishop’s Palace, you find yourself wandering down a narrow alleyway towards the Šternberský Palace. The palace was initially built for the Count Václav Vojtěch of Šternberk in 1698. The main facade of the palace looks out onto Hradčanské Square but to get to the inner courtyard one must follow the hidden passage we find ourselves in. The building was bought by the Society of Patriotic Friends of the Arts, where they display European Art from the Classical Era to the end of the Baroque Era, with emphasis on the 14th-18th centuries.

Martinic Palace

Walk back to the square, and continue westward along Hradčanské street. When we reach the square’s edge, we will find ourselves face to face with Martinic Palace on the northwest corner. The exterior of this building is truly something to see. The palace is one of the best remaining Renaissance buildings in Prague. The first building on this site was made in 1541 but burned down shortly after. In 1589 Ondřej Teyfl from Kinsdorf bought the property and transformed it into this renaissance jewel of Bohemia. What makes this building really special is the richly detailed sgraffito painted onto the facade. The sgraffito designs depict scenes from the lives of Joseph, King David and Hercules. 

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The name of the palace came from the 18th century when the great Martinic family owned the palace. After the death of the last surviving family member, the palace was sold off. Eventually, the building was turned into an apartment complex. These 70 apartments were lived in until 1967! Can you imagine living in such a place! 

Seeing the property’s historical architectural value, the building was purchased by the city and reconstructed back to its former glory. The 500-year-old interiors have been lovingly restored based on drawing the architects found of the original structure. The lavishly decorated interiors are still used for large events and even employed as the historical sets for TV shows such as ‘The Borgias.’ But day-to-day, the palace serves as the office for Prague’s chief architect, which feels very appropriate indeed!

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Tuscany Palace

Heading back south on the western side of Hradčany street, we pass by the final palace built in this majestic square, the Tuscany Palace. This baroque palace was built in the 17th century as the private residence of the Dukes of Tuscany. Walking up to it, you almost know it’s the Tuscan palace, from the facade’s warm terracotta tones alone. Today it serves as the office for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. 

Above the entrance, you’ll see the magnificent Tuscan coat of arms. On either side of the crest are two large cornucopias pouring forth with the bounty of Tuscany’s countryside. Two imperial eagles sit perched on either side, and four chubby cherubs fly above and below the crest.

This palace was designed by the same man who built the Archbishop’s Palace, and the two buildings seem to be almost brothers, looking at one and other from across the square. Along the top of the palace are a series of allegorical statues representing the Seven Liberal Arts; Grammar, Rhetoric, Logic, Arithmetic, Geometry, Music and Astronomy. 

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Loretánská street 

Pass the Tuscan Palace and continue along Loretánská street. Although this street can get busy in the summer during high tourist season, this is mainly due to the spectacular view of Prague castle framed along the road. The best place to get this shot is further up the hill at #13/179 Loretánská street.

In the 14th century, this part of town was actually located outside the city walls. It wasn’t until 1598 that it became a part of Prague’s city. Some of the houses here are very well preserved as they were spared from the great fire in 1742 set by the invading French army. 

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Hradčany Town Hall

Located on Loretánská Street is the former seat of the Hradčany Town Hall. Despite the council being disbanded with their integration into Prague, their beautiful Renaissance building still stands. Although the house was sold as a residential property, the new owners managed to preserve the Renaissance sgraffito exterior made when the town hall was built in 1598. On the front of the facade, you can still make out the emblem of the town of Hradčany. The symbol features the imperial coat-of-arms and a picture of Justice.

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U Černého vola

If you’re looking to stop somewhere for a drink or a bite to eat, pop into U Černého vola. U Černého vola, in Czech, means the Black Ox. This is one of Prague’s original beerhalls. The building dates back to 1574, but it wasn’t until 1726 that the building was used as a pub.

The interior makes one feel like they are going back in time. The vaulted ceilings, old coat of arms and long communal tables make you feel like you are entering a brew hall from the 18th century. Back then, it was commonplace to eat together, even with strangers. This is an excellent way to meeting people even today! The centrepiece of the interior is clearly the communist era bar. Here you can sample one of Prague’s finest brews; Kzoel beer, straight from the tap.

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Strahov Monastery

Continue along the streets, walking westward, until you reach the Strahov Monastery. The monastery, with its austere white baroque mouldings, hides a stunning and bejewelled interior. The monastery was founded in 1143 by Prince Vladislav II. Despite the baroque exterior, the interior contains one of the best-preserved Romanesque structures in Europe.

Basilica of the Assumption

Walking up to the monastery, the first part of the building to enter is the Basilica of the Assumption. The original church, which was first constructed here, was built in the 12th century. It was one of the four main temples of the Czech kingdom, along with the Cathedral of St. Vitus, the Church of St. Peter and Paul and the Břevnov monastery. In the middle of the 13th century, the Strahov monastery suffered a destructive fire. It was rebuilt in a gothic design while maintaining its romanesque floorplan.

But in 1747, after the bombings from the French army, the facade of the church was severely damaged once more. When they began restoring the church’s frontispiece, the project architect Jan Antonin Kvittainer was employed to freshen it up for the modern era using the then trendy baroque style.

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The church’s interior also features robust baroque designs, with a series of lavish frescoes covering the entire ceiling. There are 46 paintings in total representing scenes from the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary, the Life of St. Norbet, and the Marian cycle. Each one of these was painted by J. V. J. Neunherz in 1743. Each one is surrounded by these lush gilded stucco carvings highlighting the artwork within. Almost like a gallery wall mounted on the ceiling.

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Walking down the aisle, take in the beauty of the series of cartouches located beside the rows of pews. Each one is dedicated to a different saint created by painter Leopold Willmann. At the end of the aisle, you find the great altar. Atop it is the magnificent carving of the Virgin Mary’s Assumption for whom the church is named after.

Chapel of St. Norbert

Walking back down the aisle, continue to the right side of the church, where you’ll find a tiny chapel that juts out from the northern edge of the basilica. This is the Chapel of St. Norbert. The original chapel, which was located here, was built in 1258 and dedicated to St. Ursula. The newer baroque version was converted in 1745 after the church acquired the holy relics from St. Nobert himself.

Above the chapel is a small dome featuring a fresco of the Martyrdom of St. Ursula, a remnant of the previous chapel’s designs. The frescoes were painted by Siard Neosecky. In this painting, we can see St. Ursula being made a martyr along with her handmaids. The legend goes that Ursula went on her pilgrimage to Rome to dedicate herself to god. But before they would reach their destination, Ursula and her handmaids were attacked by Huns and murdered. The fresco is a powerful image full of fire and violence. It seems to grow wilder and wilder as the painting inches towards the dome’s centre, where it also appears to be set alight. Inside the small chapel, you can also find the reliquaries containing St. Ursula’s remains. Nearby is the the rococo sarcophagus containing St. Nobert’s remains, made in 1755.

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Strahov Library

Also attached to the same building is the Strahov Library. The library was one of the first parts of the monastery which was built when the entire complex was constructed. Throughout the years, it was destroyed and rebuilt, time after time, war after war. Many of their precious books were stolen. Despite this, every time they rebuilt it, they sought to make their library even grander. Today, the library stands as a jewel of the Baroque era. 

To enter the library required admission. Adults are 150 CZK ($6.50 USD) and students or children are 80 CZK ($3.40 USD). The library has three parts that visitors can explore: the Grand Philosophical Hall, The Baroque Theological Hall and the Cabinets of Curiosities. Looking from floor to ceiling at this ornately designed library will literally take your breath away. It contains over 42,000 ancient philosophical texts, sprawling along the walls like a wave of knowledge. I would highly recommend giving it a visit! More information on the library can be found here.

Černín Palace

Head back the way you came in until you reach the grand Černín Palace. Černín Palace, now home to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, was built in the 1660s by diplomat Humprecht Jan Černín z Chudenic, the Habsburg imperial ambassador to Venice and Rome. Chudenic was incredibly vain and saw himself as more important than even the emperor. He built his palace in a location that was just higher up than Prague Castle, making his palace appear more prominent.

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Loreto Sanctuary

Behind the Černín Palace, you’ll find the buttercream frosted Church of Loreto. The name “Loreto” references the little cottage in which the Virgin Mary lived in Nazareth before becoming the mother of god. There are several “Loreto” churches all over the world. While visiting the one in Italy, Countess Kateřina Benigna of Lobkowicz fell so deeply in love with it that she entrusted a fair share of her wealth to Prague’s construction of their own Loreto. The church was built in 1626 by an Italian architect to ensure this church was a faithful reproduction of the same Italian version which the countess first fell in love with.

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I love the statues which decorate the facade church and are dotted along with the exterior balustrade. The perky faces of these chubby cherubs seem to welcome you in. On the frontispiece of the church are statues of various Czech saints such as St. Felix, František, Antonín and John of Nepomuk. In the central archway leading into the church is a beautifully carved emblem which represents the alliance between the families who donated money to create the church, Filip Lobkowicz and his wife, Eleonora Karolína.

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Standing outside the church, take a moment to look up at the imposing bell tower above. Inside the bell tower is a carillon of 27 bells which ring every hour from 9 am to 6 pm. The bell’s musical sound was designed by famed watchmaker Peter Neumann. The bells are immovable and are rung solely by a clock mechanism. Considering this carillon was built in 1695 the technology to create such a wide range of music seems rather ahead of its time. Every hour you can hear the song, “Marian song Thousands of greetings to you” play throughout the square. On the top of the tower, see if you can spot the crowning dove which is set against a golden aureole, the symbol of the holy spirit.

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Loreto Treasury

Walking into the church the first room you’ll enter is the Loreto Treasury. This area houses a collection of rare liturgical objects. Some of these historical pieces of ecclesiastical design are some of the most precious treasures in the nation. The most impressive one has to be the Diamond Monstrance, otherwise called the “Prague Sun.” A monstrance is an object designed to hold the consecrated communion wafers. The piece simply radiates with light as there are 6,222 diamonds set within it. This is what gave it the nickname of the “Prague Sun” as it seems to shine brighter than the even the sun in the sky.

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Santa Casa

Head into the cloisters where you’ll find my favourite part of the church, the Santa Casa. Crammed in the center of the small grassy courtyard is the intricately carved “Santa Casa” or “Holy Hut”. The entirety building is covered in magnificent stucco reliefs which depict scenes of the life of the Virgin Mary. Set amongst the little vignettes are statues of the prophets who predicted the birth of the Virgin Mary. The structure’s shape and design is a replica of the house where the Virgin Mary lived during her life in Nazareth. You could definitely spend a good amount of time encircling the building studying all the different carvings so it’s best to find one which you are really drawn to and focus on that particular one.

On either side of the Santa Casa are two wonderfully charming fountains with huge sculptures set inside the water feature. The one of the left depicts the “Resurrection of Christ,” and the one on the right depicts the “Assumptions of the Virgin Mary.” Both of these were made by artists J. M. Bruderle and R. J. Prachner in 1738.

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The cloisters surrounding the Holy Hut were built in the 18th century and contain a series of chapels dedicated to saints who protect people against disease and suffering. The most popular of these chapels is the Chapel of the Ecstasy of St. Francis. Within the chapel, you’ll find a stunning painting of the Stigmatisation of St. Francis, with the saint flying on a great chariot, painted by P. Brandl.

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Church of the Nativity

Continuing onwards, we enter the main nave of the Church of the Nativity. While the church feels small, it does not feel insignificant. The interior swells with richly carved marble columns and ostentatious decorations everywhere you look. Along the perimeter of the church are several marble altars and fantastical oratories that contain precious relics. The main altar is carved from a great piece of red and white marble and features a painting of the Nativity of Christ by J. J. Heinsch set within it.

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On the ceiling are a series of incredible frescoes. The scene portrays the newborn baby Jesus being worshipped by the Magi. The ceiling is painted to looks like there is an illusory gallery with a large balustrade lining the perimeter. Behind the balustrade are characters from the nativity, including the magi themselves. Above them, we can see the celestial images of God surrounded by a choir of angels who look down lovingly at the scene below.

In addition to the people, there is also a collection of exotic animals that surround the mother and newborn baby. The other vaults in the church depict moments from the childhood of Jesus in chronological order from the entrance towards the presbytery.

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The Spanish saints Felicissimus and Marcis stand as wax models inside the church. Each of them dressed up in period-appropriate Spanish attire. These wax models are a form of reliquary, a container for the physical remains of the saints. Each one was modelled after the true form of the saint. They are each covered in rare fabrics, rich embroideries and precious jewels to distinguish them as holy objects. Pilgrims come from all over the world to worship in front of their models as if they were really there themselves.

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The oldest artwork inside the church is the Gothic Pieta, dating back to the 15th century. She can be found in the Chapel of the Virgin Mary of Sorrows. Despite the relatively simple carving methods used here, such emotion is still found on the mother’s faces as she clutches her dead son’s body.

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Novy Svet

Walking north up Kapucínská street, we come up with the steeply set Novy Svet. Novy Svet, or “New World,” is a street in Prague that seems free of the tourist hoards seen elsewhere in the city. The area dates back to the 14th century when a large ravine, previously located here, was filled in to create more housing for the workers required to support the construction of Prague Castle. On one side of the road is a thick old wall, which looks like it is barely hanging onto the hillside. Some of the stones on this wall are remnants of the old city walls, which once divided the city of Hradčany from the rest of Prague. On the opposite side of the wall are a series of beautiful houses, some dating back to the 17th century.

Church of St. John of Nepomuk

Before heading to our next stop, take a short detour, towards the Church of St. John of Nepomuk. St. John of Nepomuk is one of the most important saints in the Czech Republic. This church, therefore, holds great importance to Prague’s history. The original church built on this site was made for the Order of Voršilek. One of the nuns of the order made it her life goal to see that John of Nepomuk was made a saint.

The nun had had a lame hand for years, infected with scabies, and doctors said it could not be fixed. As the infection worsened, she was at risk of losing her hand entirely. She came to Prague, where she knew St. John was preaching and asked him to bless her. She claimed that when St. John of Nepomuk blessed her hand she was cured of the infection none of the doctors had been able to heal. This was seen as the fourth miracle performed by St. John of Nepomuk, ensuring his sainthood.

After St. John of Nepomuk was proclaimed a saint, this church was rebuilt as a cathedral in his name. In 1720 the first stone was laid. It was built in the high baroque style of the times. In a niche atop of the clock tower stands a sculptor of St. John of Nepomuk himself surrounded by angels.

But soon after its consecration in 1728, the monastery fell into great financial trouble and closed its door. The building was left abandoned and eventually used by the city as a salt warehouse until 1861. It was reconsecrated in 1902 when it returned to the ownership of the Catholic church. However, the interiors had since been ransacked and their precious treasures sold off to pay debts.

Vstup Jelení Příkop or Deer Moat

We are now headed towards the Royal Summer Palace. But instead of taking the roadway back over the eastern side of Hradcany, we will take the small, pedestrian-only pathway called Vstup Jelení Příkop or the Deer Moat. This large expanse of forest was initially a hunting ground for the royals in the early part of the 17th century where the court would hunt deer, hence the name. During this time the grounds were also used to house a variety of animal enclosures for the King’s menagerie.

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Powder Bridge

Walking towards U Prašného mostu, turn to the right and stand atop the Powder Bridge. This bridge overlooks the Deer Moat and leads right into Prague Castle’s second courtyard. The first bridge installed here was built in 1535 to connect Prague Castle to the newly created Royal Gardens in the summer palace. The name of the bridge comes from the fact that during the early days of Prague Castle, the Mihulce tower, located behind the bridge, was used to store gunpowder. At the time, insulation and air-tight construction weren’t highly developed. Therefore gunpowder would often blow out the windows of the tower and land on the nearby bridge. This gave it the nickname, ‘Powder Bridge’ as more often then not dustings of gunpowder would cover the entire pathway.

The original bridge burned down in 1541. Various reconstructions were made over and over throughout the years as the bridge seemed plagued with misfortune. It was even victim to a bombing during the Prussian wars of 1757. The current stone version was made in the 18th century and still stands today.

Prague Riding School

Continue up the street until you reach the Prague Castle Riding School. This cream coloured building was built in the 17th century to teach the nobility of Prague the skills required to become adept horsemen. The baroque facade is relatively simple, with just a few stucco ornaments above the window and along the facade’s roofline. The stucco designs at the top of the building, above the doors, are carved into the shape of two jumping horses. On either side of the horses are the busts of a Turc and a blackmoor surrounded by various weapons. The original riding school was used by the nobility for horse games and tournaments. Today it is used primarily as an exhibition center.

The Royal Garden

Just up past the Riding school, you’ll find the Royal Garden entrance on your right-hand side. The Royal gardens are open to the public, so anyone can come inside and enjoy the splendours of this 16th-century lush enclosure. The gardens were designed in 1540 for Emperor Ferdinand I of Habsburg to surround his new Summer Palace. At the time of its construction, the park was one of the best examples of renaissance gardens in the Czech Republic.

When it was first built, the gardens were for the royal family’s personal use only. Here they could come to relax and play games, away from the eyes of the court and the public. Later in the 18th century, the garden was renovated to suit the new baroque style of the time. Today, the garden resembles more of a 19th-century English park where the plentiful fruit trees have been replaced with more sustainable decorative shrubs.

Royal Ball Game Hall

To the south, just after you enter the park, you’ll see a large stone building absolutely adorned in some of the most intricate sgraffito carvings. This is the old Royal Ball Game Hall. These carvings depict allegories of the four earthly elements along with images of art and science. All of these images are intertwined within floral designs making the entire piece so visually rich and eye-catching.

The Royal Ball Game Hall was built in 1597 and used as a place for nobles to gather to watch and participate in sporting activities, away from the public’s eye. During WWII, the building was burned down by the Nazis as they retreated from the allies. Thankfully it was able to be restored in 1950. If you look closely, you can see the symbols of the hammer and sickle, which were added in the 50’s when the communist party was responsible for the restorations.

Singing Fountain

In front of the Summer Palace, at the edge of the park, is a large fountain. Surrounding it are geometrically shaped garden beds, whose flowers bloom in all the colours of the rainbow in the spring and summer. The fountain is called the “Singing Fountain” as people say that the water spilling from the top of the fountain into the basin plays a little song. Listening closely to see if you can hear it. Holding up the upper basin of the fountain is a series of bronze sculptures depicting mythological gods tightly knit together.

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Queen Anne’s Summer Palace

The Royal Summer Palace is also referred to as Queen Anna’s Summerhouse. The palace is named after Ferdinand I’s wife, Anna Jagiellon. The building’s facade is a fine example of Italian Renaissance architecture made by Italian architect Paolo Della Stella. The palace’s roof is especially attractive, as its curved shape was meant to resemble the bottom of a ship’s hull. The exterior of the building features 36 columns creating a beautiful arcade around the palace. In between each of the columns, are arches covered in reliefs of royal hunts, historical battles and characters from greek and roman mythology.

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Sitting in the peace and quiet of the Royal Summer gardens is a perfect place to end our tour as we reach the outskirts of Hradčany. I hope you enjoyed this walk across this part of Prague.

Let me in the comments if you’ve visited Hradčany before or what part of the Prague you are most looking forward to exploring.

Happy Travels Adventurers.

The post Free Self-Guided Walking Tour of Hradčany, Prague’s Castle District first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

I say luckily since I ended up having one of my worst days of vertigo while in Prague and being able to rest and recuperate in such a beautiful environment definitely helped. What otherwise is a pretty miserable experience was made all the more bearable by staying in such a special place. Usually, you aren’t in your hotel room all day when travelling, so my almost full day in the hotel really gave me the chance to appreciate all the little details and comforts this place provides its guests.

Location

One of the most important aspects of a hotel after comfort, is always location. Being able to pop out of your place in the morning and get the right to exploring the city is super convenient. It’s only a 10-minute walk to the Old Town square and 12-minutes to the Charles Bridge. But the hotel is located just enough outside the busy tourist centre that it feels more like living in an authentic Czech neighbourhood. And you don’t have the loud voices of crowds of travellers waking you up at all hours.

History

Hotel Elite Prague, located along a peaceful cobblestone street, is set inside a 14th-century old monastery. So much of the old building has been preserved, so you feel like you are staying in a piece of Prague’s history. In 1723 the building was used as a guesthouse during the coronation of King Charles VI. Everywhere you look it feels like there is a story to be told and history is simply steeped inside the walls of this hotel.

Rooms

There is something about staying inside a piece of history that adds a spectacularly unique touch to your experience. The dimly lit hallways feel romantic, like you staying inside an ancient manor house. 

The renovations made to bring the 14th-century building up to modern standards are pretty seamless. Each room provides all the mod-cons you’d expect from a hotel. The bathrooms are clean while still being a bit modest, which is much more budget-friendly. It’s always lovely that a hotel with this much history is also financially accessible to more travellers. So often, historic hotels are pretty pricey and therefore not an option for many people. But the Hotel Elite tries its best to scale back where it can, to allow its price point to be more accessible.

The standard rooms are beautifully decorated but if you really want to splash out, go for the Renaissance style suites! We booked one of these rooms as the ceilings featured the most elaborate paintings from the 17th century. These pieces are actually protected by the Town Hall as a historical monument of Prague. Dotted throughout the hotel are collectibles, original furniture, and antique parquet floors, which add to the building’s historical atmosphere.

Breakfast

Depending on your booking, breakfast may or may not be included. If your breakfast is not included, it costs 225 CZK per person (around $10 USD). While we had this included in our stay and thoroughly enjoyed it, I wouldn’t pay that much if you had the choice. They have everything you’d expect from a breakfast buffet; cereals, fresh fruit, pastries, cold cuts and made to order omelettes. But for $10 USD, I think you can go out somewhere else in Prague and have a much more authentic breakfast. Compared to the price of the full meals at their restaurant you do feel there is a “tourist tax” employed here for the breakfast menu.

Élite Garden restaurant

Located in the hotel’s courtyard is the Élite Garden restaurant, which specializes in traditional Czech cuisine. The open-air garden was a wonderful place to come and have a drink at night or enjoy a snack in the middle of the day. The delightful greenery and charming statues surrounding the courtyard make for the loveiest dining experience.

The restaurant uses ingredients from local producers and farmers and blends traditional recipes with modern culinary trends. Their lunch menu featuring a 3-course meal is only 145 CZK per person ($6 USD), which is even cheaper than the breakfast! Their dinner menu is ala cart but has a selection of seasonal offerings, which are always my go-to! I loved the grilled spicy pork ribs with cabbage salad and horseradish! For only 195 CZK ($8 USD), its an amazingly filling meal!

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Facilities

In addition to the beautiful garden courtyard where guests can relax outside, there is a small spa on-site. There is an extra cost to use facility but at 500 CZK per person ($20 USD) I would give it a miss. Inside you’ll find a small spa with a sauna and whirlpool. But when I say small, I mean small as the facilities are just big enough for 2 people. This seems super overpriced so we skipped this altogether. They also seemed to offer massages, but these came with mixed reviews.

If you’re looking for a spa experience in Prague, I would recommend Sauna Central. For 2 hours inside the spa, it costs merely 375 CZK ($16 USD). Their facilities include 4 saunas and 1 steam room, a cooling pool, a relaxing cafe and even options for a private wellness room. These private rooms are perfect for couples and include your own private sauna and jacuzzi. These rooms cost 1000 CZK for 1-hour but for two people.

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Accessibility

The elevator serves one side of the hotel and there is a way to cross to the other side. Ask the front desk staff for help accessing it should you require the elevator.

Staff

Although we found that not all the staff members spoke English, you are after all in another country, so some communication difficulties are to be expected. But the staff were always incredibly kind and patient. They even were a great help to me when I wasn’t feeling well and aided us to find a pharmacy and figure out what to ask for.

All in all, the Hotel Elite in Prague was such a highlight of our time in the city. I sincerely hope to go back and stay in another room to experience another side of the history hidden in those walls.

Let me know in the comments where you’ve stayed in Prague and what you recommend. Or, if you’re travelling there for the first time, let me know what you’re looking for in a hotel.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post A Historic Stay at the Hotel Elite Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This self-guided walking tour will take you through the legends of Prague’s Mala Strana, or ‘Little Quarter.‘ Whether you believe in ghosts or not, these stories are a fun way to learn about the spirits that may still haunt Prague today!

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Walking Tour
2. The Ghosts of Charles Bridge
3. The “Good” Friday Turkey
4. Ghost of the Millers Daughter
5. Karbourek the Water Sprite
6. The Old Chapel of Mary Magdelene
7. The Nailed Woman
8. Petrin Hill
9. The Ghosts of Pohořelec
10. The Evil Countess of Černín Palace
11. The Bells of Loreto Sanctuary
12. Werewolf of Stag Moat
13. The Ghost of the Potion Seller
14. Vitus Spirit
15. Spirits of Golden Lane
16. Ghost Lady of White Tower
17. Knight of Daliborka Tower
18. Three Unhappy Ghosts
19. Ghost of the Obese Merchant
20. The Ghost with a Nail
21. Naked Cecilie

Map of Walking Tour

The Ghosts of Charles Bridge

John of Nepomuk

The Charles Bridge is undoubtedly the most famous location in Prague. Thousands of tourists walk across the cobblestone pathway every day. But upon the stones, they tread on some of the city’s darkest history. The Charles Bridge is perhaps most infamous for being the place where St. John of Nepomuk was martyred. John of Nepomuk had been the confessor of the queen of Bohemia. When the king demanded John divulge her secrets, he denied the king. Nepomuk could not break the sacred nature of holy confession, even for the king. The king was furious and condemned Nepomuk to death for his audacity.

Nepomuk was thrown from Charles Bridge into the Vlatava River, where he drowned. Ever since that moment, the bridge was thought to be cursed by the king’s evil doings. The bridge would continually collapse into the river. Even with the most modern construction technology, any attempt to prevent destruction ended badly.

The Cursed Bridge

The Kings of Bohemia didn’t know what to do. The bridge connected the two sides of the city together. It was a crucial access point for travellers. They couldn’t simply ignore this problem. One day, an ambitious young stonemason came forward, saying he could remedy the issue. But with all of his best efforts, the bridge continued to collapse. At his wit’s end, the stonemason was worried his failure would prove fatal. He had promised the king he would be the only one to finally solve this problem.

One night while at the construction site, the devil appeared in front of the stonemason and offered him an exchange. He would ensure the bridge would never collapse if the stonemason would sacrifice the first soul who crossed the devil’s bridge. The stonemason carefully agreed.

Once the bridge was complete, the stonemason wanted to ensure no unsuspecting soul was lost. And he certainly didn’t like the soul to be his own. So, thinking he could trick the devil, he went to the market to buy an animal. He hoped to force the animal to cross the bridge, so the devil would instead take the animal’s soul.

Stonemasons Sacrifice

But the devil wasn’t so easily fooled, and he saw what the stonemason was plotting. The devil disguised himself as an old woman and went to the stonemason’s house where his pregnant wife lived. The devil, dressed as the old woman, told the stonemasons’ wife that the mason had been severely injured on the bridge. In terror for her husband’s life, the wife ran to the bridge. Seeing him on the other side, she crossed it. When the stonemason looked up to see her running across the completed bridge, he knew it was too late.

The wife went into labour early, but the child would never see the light of day. She died in childbirth, and both the mother and son’s souls would have been lost forever to the devil. In horror and riddled with guilt, the stonemason threw himself into the river and committed suicide. But after that day, the bridge never collapsed again. The contract with the devil having been fulfilled.

The Heads of Charles Bridge

Another dark story from the bridge’s past relates to the massive Bohemian revolt of 1612. During this period, the Bohemian people fought against the Habsburg rule, starting the Thirty Years War. During the uprising in Prague, 27 leaders organized a rebellion against the Habsburg Emperor. Once their plot was discovered, they were executed; twelve were beheaded, and fifteen were hanged.

This was a shocking event for the Czech people. These executed men were not just any old thief or murdered, but were highly important; professors, noblemen, scholars, and businessmen. Their heads were placed in iron baskets on the Old Town Bridge Tower. They supposedly remained there for over a decade. This scene would undoubtedly have been one of the grimmest sights to see over ten years. And souls seemed to latch themselves to the bridge itself. Today, when crossing at night, see if you can spot any brave men’s ghostly figures.

The “Good” Friday Turkey

To the left of Charles Bridge, you descend down along the water’s edge. This part of a town seems packed with evil spirits, and an otherwise charming waterway has a rather nefarious name. They call it ‘Čertovka,’ which in English means the “Devil’s Stream.” The name is supposedly derived from a nearby house, which was called ‘U semi čertů‘ or “At the Seven Devils.” Along Čertovka, you’ll find remnants of an old medieval mill. This mill used the water along the canal to power it’s waterwheel in the 12th century. 

Fiery Turkey

As you pass by the old mill, listen closely to see if you can hear the eternal squawking of the “Fiery Turkey.” On one Good Friday evening, when all the good Catholics were obligated to fast, the weak-willed miller was hungry. He loved to eat meat and, most of all, turkey. Unfortunately, he also kept a turkey as a pet. In a fit of hunger, he killed and ate his friend. 

Shortly after finishing his sinful dinner, the miller had a gall bladder attack and died right there on the spot inside the mill. When the townspeople came to see what the racket was about, they found the miller dead, with his pet turkey standing upon his belly, cackling loudly into the night. Almost as a warning to those who would think of also breaking their fast.

Ghost of the Millers Daughter

It seems as though the mill itself is a powerful dark force as a myriad of other evil tales pop up in its history. Another miller who once lived here had a beautiful but vain daughter. Despite being born into relative poverty, all she dreamed of was becoming rich and powerful. She had an idea to get an invitation to the Gentlewomen’s Ball held every year at Lichtenštejn Palace. There, the young daughter imagined she would meet a rich man and marry him, ensuring her nobility. But despite all her father’s best efforts, he could not find a way to get her an invitation to the ball as a commoner.

At her wit’s end, the daughter made a deal with the devil. He agreed to give her an invitation to the ball in exchange for her soul. But even with this supernatural intervention, no one inside would dance or pay her any mind. She was still a miller’s daughter. This flagrant disregard and knowing what she had done to her soul for naught caused the daughter to fall into a fit of rage, and she was expelled from the palace by the guards. 

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Lichtenštejn Palace

The miller’s daughter never got over the ordeal and died inside the nearby mill in a state of madness. But the devil doesn’t forget, and her ghost is said to return to the Lichtenštejn Palace to do the devil’s bidding. People claim that they have seen her rude ghost chasing after young men during festive events, wailing as she goes. While she might simply pursue the men, she is outwardly violent towards young, beautiful, and mostly wealthy women. They represent everything she had been so desperate to have and sold her soul to achieve. She has been known to attack women, bite and scatch them until they can get away. She haunts the palace around midnight so keep your wits about you if you pass by around that time.

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Karbourek the Water Sprite

If you see a strange creature with his feet resting in the water asking for a beer, near the Devil’s Stream, you might have run into Karbourek, the Water Sprite. The sprite visited Prague hundreds of years ago. It was once a cheerful creature, indulging in drinks with other drunkards in Mala Strana. He was peaceful and kindhearted, and bartenders would leave him a glass of beer whenever they saw him. 

But as time has gone on and bars have closed or have forgotten the legend, the sprite has turned tasty. Karbourek lurks around in the river but will surface every so often when he gets thirsty for beer. Unless you have a drink to offer the creature, it’s best to stay away. If you spot the sprite and offer him a beer, he is known to reward those good samaritans with a pike or eel from the river. Karbourek has become so famous in this area that there is even a wooden statue created in his likeness on the mill’s edge.

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The Old Chapel of Mary Magdelene

Along Karmelitska Street, you’ll find the Czech Museum of Music, which is now home to more than one of Prague’s infamous ghosts. In the 17th-century, the building was originally the convent of St. Mary Magdalene. But this convent was home to some truly cruel nuns and one in particular. In life, this nun was in charge of taking children from their mothers. This started innocently enough. The nuns aimed to help unwed mothers give up their babies to find good, “proper” homes. 

Perhaps influenced by the darkness that lurked in the nearby Devils stream, the nuns were soon corrupted by greed. They began selling the children of these unwed mothers off into indentured servitude or workhouses and kept the money from themselves. They were known to host ostentatious and lavish parties with their earning. Their greed seemed unquenchable. Eventually, one of the cruellest of the nuns began tricking mothers into giving up their babies. If she was there during the birth, she would claim the baby was stillborn, even if it was not and then quickly sell the newborn off for coin. If that didn’t work, she would even resort to kidnapping children. 

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The Nun’s Ghost

When the nun finally died, her soul was damned forever, and her ghost still lurks these streets, unable to ever find peace. They say only children can see her, so if you spot a child speaking to no one, be sure to rush them away as her ghost is still known to spirit away children, never to be seen again.

In the 18th century, the convent was deconsecrated, and the building was used as housing for the poor. Many actors and actresses moved into the apartments as the rent was cheap and close to nearby theatres. One of these actresses is known better known as the “headless ghost of Mala Strana.” In life, she was one of the most beautiful women in Prague. Her husband was a jealous man and hated watching her performances filled with dozens of love-struck admirers. His jealousy reached a peak point when the actress courted a rich count after her show. When she came home, her husband promptly cut off her head in a resentful fit of rage. Now her ghost haunts the building, looking endlessness for her lost head, the source of all her beauty.

The Nailed Woman

Further along, Karmelitská Street is a wicked looking ghost known to stick her tongue out at affluent visitors. The story goes that the woman, Mrs. Kuliček, was once the wife of a great city. The two lived together on Karmelitská Street. Mr. Kuliček had made a good living as an official of public health while he was alive. But when he died suddenly, he left his wife with little money, save for their home. Mrs. Kuliček had no practical skills to speak of, as most women were just housekeepers. She was too old to remarry and quickly running out of money to keep the lifestyle she had become used to. 

Seeing no other option, Mrs. Kuliček turned their large apartments into a giant brothel. Since the house was located in a reasonably well to do part of town, it would garner higher-end clientele. But Mrs. Kuliček, now the establishment’s madam, wasn’t too decerning about who she let service the men inside the brothel. As the wife of a public health official, you would have thought she would have been more aware of women who carried disease, but Mrs. Kuliček cared only for money!

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Prague’s Brothels

One very wealthy man came and asked him to be greeted by a “pure” woman. Most brothel workers were plagued with “social diseases,” such as syphilis and gonorrhea. The madam took the man’s money anyway, tricking one of her employees into lying to the nobleman about her purity.

When the wealthy nobleman came down with syphilis a few weeks later, he was furious. Syphilis was incurable, and he knew he would die in a short matter of time. He broke into the apartments and tied the woman’s hands behind her back and nailed her tongue to the bedroom door to punish her “sinful tongue.” When he left, he hung a “quarantine” sign above the door so no one would enter and find the poor woman. She died inside of her wounds, a slow horrible death. If you see Mrs. Kuliček pass you by and stick out her tongue, look closely. You might be horrified to see that nail is still stuck right through her tongue!

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Petrin Hill

Head up Hellichova street, towards Petrin Hill and proceed up hillside pathway. This peaceful park is truly haunting at night when the sun goes down, and only a few lamps and the moonlight are there to guide your way. Petrin Hill, hundreds of years ago, was home to a pagan altar. Here, pagans would sacrifice young, beautiful virgins to their gods, burning them alive atop the altar. When Prince Boleslav came to power in Bohemia, his aim was to eradicate any of the remaining pagans who refused to convert to Christianity, despite being raised by a pagan mother himself. 

The Petrin Hill altar was destroyed, and a great Christian cathedral was even built nearby to further rub salt in the wound. But the ghosts of the pagans and those women burned alive still haunt the hill to mock Prince Boleslav. Self-contained fires are known to break out along the hill and burn mysteriously without any remains being found afterwards. Faces have been seen in the fires, laughing maniacally at the viewer. The fires last about 20 minutes, and then they disappear, so keep your eyes peeled as you go!

The Ghosts of Pohořelec

Along Pohořelec street, near Strahov Monastery, keep your eyes peeled for a headless ghost followed by a hound with someone curious in its mouth… This duo’s legend is a classic tale of greed and betrayal. A beautiful, young woman married an old, ugly but wealthy man. Soon after their marriage was official, the woman began plotting to kill her husband and steal his riches. He came home one day, and she took an axe to his head. But the man had had suspicions about her from the start, and when he died, she had found that the man had hidden all his gold. The woman died in poverty but came back as a hound who drags the headless man’s head around, taunting him into finally revealing the secret treasure’s location.

The Evil Countess of Černín Palace

Černín Palace was once home to one of the cruellest countesses Prague has ever known. Although she might not have committed any murders, her truly selfish and abusive behaviour towards her fellow citizens was abominable. Černín Palace, now home to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, was built in the 1660s by diplomat Humprecht Jan Černín z Chudenic, the Habsburg imperial ambassador to Venice and Rome. Chudenic was incredibly vain and saw himself as more important than even the emperor. He built his palace in a location that was just higher up than Prague Castle, making his palace almost more grand than the royal court itself.

Chudenic was also a stingy man and refused to sign any contract or agree to pay until the work was finished. This was perhaps more common back in the day before labours laws were put in place to protect the blue-collar workers. But when Chudenic died, suddenly, there was no one left who had had contact with the construction crew and knew that they were owed a large sum of money. So, left with no other choice, the workers contacted a local medium who performed a seance to bring the spirit of Chudenic back from the dead. He was raised up and forced to sign the contracts from the beyond, so work on the palace could be finished, and the workers were finally paid. Perhaps this seance opened the door to the other world, and many speculate this connection was never properly closed.

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The Countess

Chudenics’ daughter became the countess of the palace. She was known to dramatically flaunt her wealth. She would bath in litres and litres of milk when milk was considered one of the most expensive imports. When the great famine of 1770 broke out in Bohemia, she had shoes made of bread that she would wear out on the town, to mock the starving peasants. Even the devil was shocked by her outright cruelty and sent nine of his demons through the open gateway to punish her. 

One night, as she danced down the halls of her ostentatious palace in her bread shoes, the nine demons dragged her to hell for neglecting those in need. People claim you can still hear her blood-curdling screams down the palace’s halls as she is forced to dance for eternity in those uncomfortable bread shoes. Her ghost is known mainly to visit at midnight when the palace is closed to the public. But even so, be warned; never dance with her as she will drag you both back down to the underworld.

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The Bells of Loreto Sanctuary

Across the street from the Černín Palace is the Loreto Sanctuary. Built in 1626, the Loreta Sancturay is a holy place of pilgrimage most famous for its clock tower and carillon. But before the church was built, legend has it that this site was once a pagan altar where one of the greatest pagan priestesses of Prague, Princess Drahomíra of Stodor, was sucked down into the netherworld. Like Černín Palace, this marked this site as a place where spirits are known to cross over.

27 bells in total were installed in the tower in 1694. A woman who lived nearby the church thought it exceptionally lucky as she had exactly 27 children. She named each of the bells after one of her children, the largest corresponding to her eldest child and each subsequent smaller bell to her other children. Legend has it during the great plague of 1713, the women’s eldest daughter fell ill to the disease. The mother went to the church in distress and placed one silver coin in the prayer box and prayed for her daughter’s life. As she sat there, the largest of the bells rang out, and when the mother got home, her eldest daughter was dead.

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The Bell Tolls

The same pattern continued for each of her children, one would fall ill, and she would go to the church, place a silver coin in the prayer box, and the bell corresponding to that child would die. This happened until all her children were dead. The woman was racked with grief, and when she lay dying in her bed, moments before she closed her eyes forever, all the bells rang at once despite no one being in the tower to ring them. Many locals believe this was her children calling their mother to heaven. Although this ghost story isn’t as macabre as the others, every time the bells ring, you can sense something otherwordly in the air.

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Werewolf of Stag Moat

Just outside Prague castle is a great park called the ‘Stag Moat.’ It is a natural ravine, which was a famous breeding ground for deer during the 17th century. However, the urbanization of the city has dramatically reduced the deer’s population. Although the park is only open in the summer season, standing on the bridge on the ramparts of Prague Castle is a beautiful place to take the scenery.

One of the legends of the Stag Moat is that of the werewolf of Prague. When Rudolf II ruled, he turned the moat into a wild animal menagerie. He kept deer, elk, wild boar and many birds inside the park so that his court could hunt in the grounds just across from their castle. But his tastes for the exotic got the best of him. Inside the park, he also kept lions and bears in cages with viewing platforms surrounding them so the court could come and observe them in captivity. One day, a few mysterious grey wolves were added to the menagerie.

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The Wolves of the Moat

The gameskeeper and his mute assistant looked after the animals as well as the new additions, the wolves. Right away, it was noticeable that the assistant took extra special care of the wolves. Despite not being able to speak with humans, the apprentice started to howl at night with the wolves. He was even seen sleeping in their pens from time to time. The gameskeeper came to work one day and couldn’t find his assistant but curiously, there were now three wolves in the cell where there had only been two before. The gameskeeper was puzzled but thought the only answer was that a lone wolf had perhaps come to find two of his lost pack members.

Soon after the third wolf arrived, the wolves ban to escape their pen at night and began attacking some of the other royal pets. Despite the gamekeeper trying to recapture them, they always manage to get out, almost as if they had grown fingers to open their cage. One day the wolves managed to find their way out of the moat and were never seen again. Rumours of attacks throughout the countryside were rampant. People said they had seen two wolves and a man with wolves’ bodies attacking animals and people all across the country.

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The Ghost of the Potion Seller

Another famous legend of Stag Moat is that of the ghost of the travelling potion seller. The lion master who worked in the menagerie was a cruel and greedy man. Rudolf II loved his lions and considered them one of his most prized possessions, so she spared no expense in their care. But instead of feeding the lions, the high-quality meat they were sent by the palace, the lion master sold the meat and kept the money for himself. Instead, he would feed the lions whatever rotten scarps he could put together.

One day, a poor travelling potion seller walked by the lion’s cages and collapsed in front of the lion master, begging for his help. Just a scrap of food was all he needed to get his strength back. But the lion master refused, and the man was dead in minutes. Seeing an opportunity, the lion master threw the poor potion seller into the cage, where the ravenous lions devoured him.

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The Potion Masters Ghost

The lion master returned the next day and saw the potion seller’s ghost standing in front of the cages. The lion master was terrified at spotting the spirit returning from the grave to haunt the sinful man. Riddled with guilt, the man hung himself from bars of the lion’s cages. Today, around the time when the lions would have been fed, you can still see the ghost of the travelling potion seller wandering the moat. Warning others to be kind to those in need.

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Vitus Spirit

There have been sightings outside St. Vitus cathedral of a ghostly figure looming over the building. In the 18th century, a soldier patrolling the grounds saw the white figure and approached it, thinking it was an intruder. The figure threw a handful of wheat at his feet and disappeared. The next day, another solider saw the same figure, and this time had a coin tossed down before the figure disappeared. On the third night, warned by the other two, the next soldier was on guard, and when the figure appeared, he shot it on the spot. This time, the spirit tossed the bullet that had been fired straight at him back at the soldier’s feet. The three items were thought to be an omen of the future three years for the city.

In the next year, the crops were plentiful. The year after, the city was flush with wealth from the sale of all that grain. But, in the third year, the Seven Years Wars began, and many of its citizens lost their lives. Just as the spirit had predicted, wheat a symbol of agricultural abundance, coins the symbol for wealth and the bullet a symbol for death and war.

Spirits of Golden Lane

Many people claim that Golden Lane is home to some guardian spirits, which were once tied to this area of town during the pagan era. Emperor Charles IV wrote in his memories that he had seen one of these creatures throw a golden cup across his table in the middle of the night. When he asked his staff about this vision, they all told him various stories of small creatures they had also seen around Golden Lane.

If you spot a black cat along this street, be sure to give it a kind stroke. This is said to be the spirit of a young girl who once lived with her father along Golden Lane. The poor girl threw herself off a bridge after her father had murdered her lover. It’s a classic tale of a young girl wanting to marry someone their family disapproves of. But this father took it a little bit too far by murdering her beloved.

Cats of Golden Lane

After the young woman found out about her lover, she threw herself off the nearby bride but returns to her father’s house along Golden Lane every night like a cat. Cats are a symbol of rebirth and resurrection, and perhaps this girl was granted another one of her nine lives. She haunts the street in the hopes of getting revenge on her father and searches for him in all the houses along the lane.

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Ghost Lady of White Tower

The White Tower in Prague Castle, located at the west end of Golden Lane, was used as a prison for noblemen since 1584. One of the most famous prisoners was Katerina Bechynova, the wife of the count of Karlstejn. After finally being arrested and charged with the murder of 14 people, she was brought to the tower. Most of the victims were young female serfs, which had been under her employment. 

Some people say the number was probably more like 30 people. She admitted to the killings and even admitted to torturing her serfs by cutting them with knives and pouring salt into the wounds. She was placed in the bottom of the tower and forced to starve, a slow agonizing death. Her angry ghost is known to haunt this tower and was seen almost right after her death. Curiously, only a few days after she died, the judge who sentenced her also died mysteriously, perhaps killed by the ghost herself.

Knight of Daliborka Tower

The other prisoner Tower in Prague castle is Daliborka Tower. This tower is slightly older, dating back to 1496 and was used as a prison until 1781. The first inmate, and the future ghost, was Dalibor of Kozojedy. Dalibor of Kozojedy was a brave knight of the realm. Seeing the plight of some rebellious serfs who had been made homeless, he invited them into his palace, where he hid and cared for them. Despite the knight’s kindness, this was considered a crime against the realm, as these serfs were “traitors.” Dalibor was arrested and placed in the newly built tower. 

While awaiting his trial, he was allowed to bring a few items with him to his prison cell as he was a noble prisoner. He brought with him a violin and started to learn to play it. He became a very skilled violinist as he had nothing else to do. People would even come to the tower to listen to his beautiful music. The people of Prague came to love his music and also believed he should be freed for his valiant acts. The court knew they had to execute him but did so in secret to avoid a public outcry. The public only knew that he had been killed when the music finally stopped. On some cold, silent nights, people claim to still hear his music play across the wind as it whips through the tower.

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Three Unhappy Ghosts

At #20 Valdštejnská Street, marked by a golden sun symbol, you might see the “Three Unhappy Ghosts of Prague.” Although they are most known to frequent the streets at Chrismas time, there is always a chance you might see them out during other times of the year. The story goes that a loving couple named Lubomír and Klára lived in this apartment once upon a time. But in 1914, when war brought out, Lubomír was sent to the front lines. Soon after he left for Translyvania, Klára received a note saying that her husband had been killed in battle. She was devastated and mourned for a year but soon fell in love with a new man, Vojtěch. Vojtěch was a coward and of poor health and was not seen fit to go off to war. He moved into the house, and the two lived happily together once more.

Klara’s Ghost

But one day, Klára answered the door to find her husband standing there in front of her. Apparently, some wires had gotten crossed, and Lubomír wasn’t dead at all but had been severely injured and had been in hospital this entire time. His face was pale and white, and his body frail from being in bed for so long. He looked so ghastly Klára thought he was a ghost. She screamed and fled, but in her shock, crashed into a shelf in the kitchen, which fell on top of her, and she was crushed to death. Lubomír was appalled to see his wife flee but even more shocked to see Vojtěch inside the house in his pyjamas.

Vojtěch, seeing his new wife dead on the floor, lived up to his reputation and fled as well. But he also tripped running up the stairs and fell, breaking his neck. Lubomír, who had a reputation of having a bad temper, thought for sure he would be blamed for their deaths and shot himself there in the hallway. Today the three ghosts bicker as they walk the streets of Prague, arguing about who is Klára’s rightful husband and who is responsible for their deaths.

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Ghost of the Obese Merchant

Lookout along Valdštejnská street for a sad-looking obese man, who wanders these streets aimlessly. He is known as the “Ghost of the Obese Merchant.” In life, the wealthy merchant would gorge himself every night, even though hundreds of people were starving to death around him. He was known to come into the pub and order three or four meals all to himself. 

One night a poor young beggar went into the pub and asked if the merchant might think of sparing just a bit of his food to share with the beggar. The merchant laughed in his face, and the beggar left. Furious, the beggar cursed the man that he would eat until he exploded. Which is what they claim happened. That he blew up right there in the pub. However, I think its more plausible to imagine his stomach was what exploded, not himself entirely. Today his ghost haunts the streets, trapped in his uncomfortable, obese body. His soul will only be freed when a poor, homeless person will pity him and share some of their food with the ghost.

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The Ghost with a Nail

Along Tomášská Street, there was once an old locksmith’s workshop. The locksmith was old and well off but lonely. One day, a man came to the locksmith and offered up his young daughter for marriage. He was desperate to get rid of the girl and thought this would be a good match. The locksmith agreed, as did the girl. She wasn’t pleased about the match but was happy to get out of the house and move on with her life. She figured the old man wouldn’t live too long anyway, and soon she would inherit his wealth and would be able to remarry. 

The locksmith took on an apprentice, for whom the young wife took a liking to immediately. That winter, a flu epidemic struck the city of Prague. When people heard that the locksmith had died, they thought nothing of it as so many others had fallen ill to the disease. Nor did they make a fuss when the young woman remarried his apprentice; people merely thought of it as a good match as the two had spent so much time together and were most likely in communal morning. 

Burials in Prague

When people were buried in Prague hundreds of years ago, their families had to pay a yearly fee to keep them underground. If you didn’t pay up, the body was dug up, thrown in a mass grave, and someone new would take that grave spot. When the young wife was sick of paying for her dead husband’s grave, he was dug up, but upon seeing his body, the gravediggers noticed that he had a huge nail stuck right into his head! No doubt what had really killed him. In the clamour of collecting bodies during the epidemic, no one had thought to check if this old man had indeed died of natural causes. The young apprentice and his wife were arrested and hung for their crimes. The ghost of the locksmith still wanders Tomášská Street and is most notable for the giant nail, which still sticks out of his head.

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Naked Cecilie

The last ghost we will search out for tonight is Cecilie, who goes by the name “Naked Cecilie.” Cecilie married Mr. Vondřich, a well to do government clerk who lived on Sněmovní street. One night he came from work early to surprise his beloved wife with a bottle of wine and some delicious cheese. When he walked in the door, he found her naked in bed with a young dandy.  

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Mr. Vondřich flew into a blind rage and stabbed the dandy to death with his cheese knife. Cecilie was horrified and jumped out the window; she forgot to put on any clothes in such haste. She ran onto the streets of Sněmovní street, still stark naked. It was a brutally, cold and windy winter’s night, and everyone had their windows and doors shut tight. She ran around, knocking on doors to see if anyone would let her in and escape her rageful husband. But everyone who heard the knocks at the door simply thought it was the wind, and she was left out in the cold.

The next day, the city guards found her frozen to death in the centre of the road, clutching her naked form. Cecilie still walks the street, trying to cover her nude body, hoping that a kind husband will offer up his coat to hide her shame. Only then will hear soul be finally freed.

This brings us to the end of the tour. I hoped you enjoyed the stories you heard tonight. Whether you are a believer in this sort of stuff or not, I hope you found something exciting about walking the streets of the Little Quarter at night when this part of the city takes on an entirely different atmosphere and air of mystery.

Happy travels, Adventurers!

The post Free Ghost Tour Of Prague’s Famous Mala Strana District first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.