You meander through charming cobblestone streets into their vibrant markets filled with fresh produce. Locals peer out of their pastel-hued windows onto the street below, looking to see what each farmer’s harvest has brought in today. With a rich tapestry of history, culture, and natural beauty, there is nowhere more magical than staying in a small town in Provence.

But to truly appreciate the Provencal way of life, with its slowed-down pace, away from the hustle and bustle of the big city, one must immerse oneself into the region’s heart, within one of its many little villages. These small towns exude a timeless charm that captivates all those who enter. And while staying in these areas might require a bit of extra effort compared to staying in larger, more touristy towns, the rewards you reap are immeasurable. So, grab your sunhat, soak yourself in the warm Mediterranean ambiance, and let me guide you through all there is to know about staying in one of these hidden treasures of Provence.

Table Of Contents

1. Why Stay in a Small Town in Provence over a Larger City?
2. What are the Best Towns to Stay In?
3. What should you Look for in a Holiday Rental?
4. Eating and Dining in Small Towns in Provence
5. Always Introduce Yourself to the Local Tabac
6. Be Prepared to Speak French
7. Make a Daily Stop at the Boulangerie
8. Be Aware of Closures
9. Saying Bonjour Goes a Long Way!
10. Discover Local Wines at the Wine Bar
11. Visit the Local Market
12. Tips on Renting a Car and Driving in Provence
13. Happy Travels, Adventurers

Why Stay in a Small Town in Provence over a Larger City?

Although the charms of Provence existed long before Peter Mayle ever stepped foot into their slopes, Mayle’s vivid descriptions and charming anecdotes captivated readers and sparked their desire to see what Provence was all about. Drawing them out of the big cities and into the countryside. Mayle’s books, “A Year in Provence” and “Toujours Provence,” painted a picture of the stunning landscapes, picturesque villages, and colourful markets that make up Provence’s tapestry. However, one of the most important aspects that make his books so enchanting is his small town and the people therein. While you can drive through Provence and see all the big sights, it is only by immersing yourself in village life, meeting the locals and exploring those otherwise ubiquitous corners that you can truly create a connection with the country.

Even in towns like Aix-en-Provence or Arles, you can feel the palpable stomping of tourists scattering around town from morning to night. But every time I would drive back into our little village, the overwhelming sense of peace and calm washed over us like diving into a cold pool on a hot day. Such a relief. And if you’re looking to stay in an antique villa at a fraction of the cost of a luxury hotel or BnB, these hillside towns have plenty! They are fantastic for family getaways where everyone can get their rooms spread out across the house, but all come together for divine dinners on the terrace looking over the valleys or sprawling olive groves.

Small towns are also great, as the kids quickly get the lay of the land. It was nice to be able to take them to the same bakery or grocery store every day, and literally, by the second day, they could find their way on their own since there was just one road into town.

What are the Best Towns to Stay In?

The region of Provence covers an area of approximately 31,400 square kilometres (12,100 square miles). Stretching out all the way to the coastline of the Mediterranean Sea across the rolling hills of the countryside. It encompasses several provinces, including Bouches-du-Rhône, Vaucluse, Var, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, and parts of Alpes-Maritimes and Hautes-Alpes. Provence has some of the best rental properties anywhere in Europe. You can find literal castles and houses built from the ruins of 17th-century houses. Vrbo is my favourite site for booking vacation rentals. Just put in the dates you’re looking to stay in Provence, and it might be the property that defines the area you want to stay in rather than the other way around. This is how I discovered what would become my favourite little village in Luberon the first time I visited Provence in 2017.

I always recommend the Luberon or the Vaucluse for first-time visitors to Provence. These areas are perfectly situated in the centre of the province. So driving to all those other sights around Provence won’t mean a time-consuming road trip. If you stay along the coast, you might be able to enjoy those ocean views, but it will also mean long car rides every time you want to adventure out into the countryside. 

Some of my favourite small towns in the area are Menerbes, Uzès, Lacoste, Saint-Remy, Oppede, Loumarin, and (the one I try to keep secret) Merindol. But as mentioned above, let the property get you excited. All the towns in these areas are fantastic, and each has a unique charm. You’ll find many rental options in larger cities like Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Nimes and Avignon, but I prefer staying somewhere a little more remote as the prices are often cheaper and the experience is all the richer!

What should you Look for in a Holiday Rental?

If you are visiting in the summer, one of my most important recommendations is to look for properties with a pool. The addition of a private pool was also a huge bonus for us. The summer weather in Provence can get pretty hot. And the pool was the perfect way to cool off after a long day. We were there in early May, and even then, the pool was handy for those surprisingly hot afternoons. If you’re travelling with kids, a pool is like an attraction all on its own. And it’s a fantastic way of tiring the kids out! After playing around for just an hour in the pool, the kids were tired enough to allow us to have a relaxing night in. Sitting on the terrace, looking out at the view and enjoying a glass of local wine, all while the kids are sound asleep. Pure perfection.

Another big plus, especially if you have little kids that you don’t want to load into the car all the time, is choosing your home base in a little village within walking distance of the town centre. You don’t always need to get in the car for dinner or groceries. Many houses that are the most charming, due to their age, may not have air conditioning, and if you’re visiting in the summer, you’ll want to consider this in advance of your booking, as many North Americans aren’t used to a lack of AC in the hot summer months.

Another important aspect of renting a vacation house in Provence is the kitchen. While eating out in France is fantastic, after long days of travelling, especially for those with kids, having a great kitchen and picturesque dining room or exterior patio makes a huge difference in enjoying your holiday. There’s nothing better than shopping at the local market and bringing it all home to lounge and snack through the evening, watching the sunset across the Luberon Valley.

We rented a very old house with an updated kitchen, making dining at home a simple pleasure. If you’re American, in France, or in many other European countries, oven temperatures are measured in degrees Celsius (°C). If you have a recipe or cooking instruction that requires setting the oven temperature in France, you’ll likely need to convert it to Celsius if it’s originally in Fahrenheit (°F).

Eating and Dining in Small Towns in Provence

The French love to dine out at restaurants and cafes, and even the smallest provencal towns will have a small, local restaurant where you can enjoy simple, traditional French cuisine, often highlighting ingredients that are so local, you can see them growing from the outdoor patio.

Even the family-run establishments showcase the region’s famous dishes, such as ratatouille, bouillabaisse, and tapenade. In small towns, you’ll typically find at least one or two traditional French restaurants, but there are usually several other types of cuisine, from Chinese to Italian. Even in our tiny town of Merindol, which has a population of just over 2,000, there were five restaurants, one of which served delicious sushi! It’s common for these restaurants to close in the afternoon between lunch and dinner services and have at least one closing day per week, typically Monday, but you should always check their posted hours.

Don’t trust Google Opening Hours

This brings me to my next point: don’t rely on Google Maps to provide accurate opening hours. Honestly, this tip is just as relevant all across France. I can’t count the times I checked the opening hours online and showed up to find the shop was closed. I always rely on the signs they have posted on the front of the shop, but since you often won’t find these until you arrive, just remain flexible and have alternatives for eating out or shopping.

Always Introduce Yourself to the Local Tabac

A “Tabac,” formally known as a “bureau de tabac,” is a French corner store officially licensed to sell tobacco products such as cigarettes, cigars, and pipe tobacco. But, besides tobacco, most Tabacs also sell various other items, including newspapers, lottery tickets, postage stamps, and sometimes small gifts like keychains or cards. In small Provençal towns, as in different parts of France, Tabacs often serve as social hubs, providing a place for locals to meet, catch up on news, and even enjoy a coffee or an apéritif. In my small town, this was the only “coffee shop” where you could come and get a later in the morning.

I remember the first time I wanted to go inside. I was so nervous as the inside was filled with locals, and I was worried about feeling out of place, but with a resounding “bonjour!” upon walking in the door, they greeted me with a smile and welcomed me in to join in the socializing. I was astounded by the quality of the coffee they made, considering I thought this was nothing more than a corner store, but I got the same calibre as any other cafe in France. So don’t be intimidated, and make sure you visit a Tabac during your stay; you might even meet some locals and get the inside scope of all the best things to do in the area. Even if you don’t speak French, you’ll be surprised how much you can understand through non-verbal communication.

Be Prepared to Speak French

Unlike in major cities like Paris or Marseille, small towns in France, especially Provence, will not have many people who speak anything close to fluent English. And that’s what makes these villages feel authentic and charming. But because of this, it’s advisable to be prepared to speak some French when visiting Provence. Here are some essential French phrases to help you communicate during your stay:

Basic Greetings and Politeness

• Bonjour (bon-zhoor) – “Hello/Good morning.”
• Bonsoir (bon-swahr) – “Good evening.”
• Merci (mehr-see) – “Thank you.”
• S’il vous plaît (seel voo pleh) – “Please.”
• Au revoir (oh ruh-vwahr) – “Goodbye.”
• Excusez-moi (ex-kew-zay mwah) – “Excuse me.”

Getting Around

• Où est…? (oo eh) – “Where is…?”
• La gare (lah gar) – “The train station.”
• Je cherche… (zhuh share-sh) – “I am looking for…”
• Pouvez-vous m’aider? (poo-vay voo meh-day) – “Can you help me?”
• Où est la mairie? (oo eh lah mare-ee) – “Where is the town hall?” 
• Où est le marché le plus proche? (oo eh luh mar-shay luh plew prosh) – “Where is the nearest market?”
• Y a-t-il une pharmacie dans le village? (ee ah-teel oon far-ma-see don luh veel-ahj) – “Is there a pharmacy in the village?”

Dining and Food

• Je voudrais… (zhuh voo-dray) – “I would like…”
• Un menu, s’il vous plaît. (uhn meh-noo, seel voo pleh) – “A menu, please.”
• L’addition, s’il vous plaît. (la-dee-see-on, seel voo pleh) – “The check, please.”
• C’est combien? (say kom-byen) – “How much is it?”

Make a Daily Stop at the Boulangerie

Every morning, no matter how early or tired, I would leap out of bed to greet the sun with a smile, knowing I could wander down the road and pick up some of the freshest bread and pastries known to man from my local Boulangerie. The Boulangerie is cherished in the cultural and daily life of small Provençal towns. They anchor daily routines, opening doors early to offer a cozy spot for community gatherings and friendly chats. In Provence, where the pace of life is slower, and the appreciation for good food runs deep, boulangeries embody the regional commitment to quality.

Traditionally, boulangeries in Provence offer a variety of breads like baguettes, boules, and fougasses—an area specialty infused with ingredients like olives, cheese, or anchovies. They also often sell pastries, including croissants and pains au chocolat, which are staple breakfast items for many locals.

Even in the smallest village, you’ll find a little boulangerie, a market stall or a bread van that delivers fresh bread daily. This is due to the Bread Laws, or “Bread of Equality,” dating back to the French Revolution in 1793. These laws mandated that all citizens should have access to the same quality of bread, abolishing distinctions between bread made for the rich and the poor. The modern regulations, specifically the French Bread Law of 1993 (Le Décret Pain), focus more on the quality and methods of bread production. This law specifies that traditional French bread must be made on-site where it is sold, without any additives or preservatives, and must consist only of four ingredients: flour, water, salt, and yeast. These regulations help preserve traditional baking methods and maintain the high quality of French bread, particularly baguettes, ensuring they are made according to longstanding traditions.

Be Aware of Closures

Since small towns often have a small number of staff, stores and restaurants will often have more closures throughout the week than in bigger cities. This is to ensure their employees get enough time off.

During the day, you’ll see everything closes at noon, save perhaps for some food shops. The shop owners go out for lunch and often have a little French siesta before reopening in the late afternoon. 

In small Provençal towns, the tradition of Sunday as a day for church and relaxation remains strong. Most shops, including some of the larger grocery stores, close in observance of this custom, so if you need any groceries, be sure to do this before the weekend.

Saying Bonjour Goes a Long Way!

When visiting a tiny Provencal town, remember you are a guest. Therefore, you should treat every visit to a store, Taba,c or Boulangerie, as if entering a friend’s home. And what do you do when you see a friend? Say hello. In French culture, saying “Bonjour” is more than just a way to say hello—it’s a warm expression of respect and politeness. Using “Bonjour” also helps create a friendly atmosphere, making social interactions smoother and more cooperative. It’s especially important in service and business settings, where it sets the stage for a conversation by showing you’re ready to engage respectfully and follow social etiquette.

One of my favourite travel stories is about a local pizza shop we often visit for takeout. On one visit, my husband noticed creme brulee on the dine-in menu and asked if we could get one to go. Even though they had no takeout containers, they generously let us take the creme brulee home in one of their ceramic dishes, trusting us to return it the next day. I was touched by their trust and willingness to accommodate us, and I believe this kind of trust all starts with a confident “bonjour!”

Discover Local Wines at the Wine Bar

Wine bars are quite common in Provence, a region in southern France known for its exquisite wine production. A culture that is deeply embedded in the local lifestyle. You’ll find a variety of wine bars even in small towns throughout the region. From casual spots where locals gather to more upscale venues offering extensive wine lists featuring local and international selections, there is almost somewhere to spend the evening away over a glass of wine and make new friends! The Wine Bar in Merindol was a popular spot during the afternoon for cross-country cyclists to pass through, as it was no doubt on their Provence tour. I loved sitting here and meeting them as they came through, as they were usually from outside of France and almost always spoke English. I’m not a wine aficionado, so I never worry too much about what to order; I just point to one of the local house wines and usually am more than pleased with the fantastic selection!

Visit the Local Market

Provence is famous for its vibrant outdoor markets; visiting it is a must-do experience. Even the smallest towns in Provence usually have some local market, even if it’s just a single fruit stand from the farmer down the road. In regions like Provence, where nearby towns might compete for the same vendors and customers, market days are scheduled on different days to avoid direct competition. This helps vendors maximize their customer base and allows locals and tourists to visit multiple markets weekly. If you aren’t sure when the market is open in your small town, either just ask around or visit this website to find a list of all the markets in Provence.

These markets are a treasure trove of local produce, artisanal crafts, and regional specialties. Take the time to stroll through the stalls, sample freshly picked fruits, and purchase unique souvenirs to bring back home. The markets allow you to interact with locals, practice your French, and immerse yourself in the lively atmosphere.

Tips on Renting a Car and Driving in Provence

If you’re staying in a small town in Provence, you’ll need to rent a car. Although touring Provence by train is possible, the smaller villages are not near train stations, and getting around to see all the sights across Provence requires a vehicle. Driving in Provence can be both exhilarating and challenging. The biggest piece of advice is to rent a smaller car as often you’ll find yourself navigating narrow village streets and tight parking spaces. You’ll want to ensure you have a GPS for the car to know where you’re going. If you have data on your phone, you can always use apps like Waze or Google Maps, but if you don’t plan on using data when travelling, you can usually rent a satellite GPS from the rental car company.

Roads in Provence

Whenever you’re travelling on the highways, be aware that you will encounter toll roads (autoroutes) when driving in France. These roads are well-maintained and are the quickest way to travel long distances, but be sure to have some euros handy for the toll booths. They also accept Visa, Eurocard, and Mastercard, but coins are the most reliable if the card machines aren’t working.

As you explore Provence, you’ll encounter roundabouts, a common feature that might be rare in your home country. Approach these with caution, reducing your speed and remembering that vehicles already in the roundabout have the right of way. If you’re taking the first exit, stay in the right lane and signal right. For later exits, use the inside lane and only shift to the outer lane to exit, signalling as you approach your intended exit. These simple rules will ensure your safety and the smooth flow of traffic. 

Filling up with Gas

In France, fuel is sold by the litre, not the gallon, so you’ll need to keep this in mind if you’re from the US. Since a litre is smaller than a gallon (1 gallon = approximately 3.785 litres), prices per litre will seem significantly lower than per gallon, but you should convert to compare accurately. Gas stations in France typically offer unleaded petrol (essence) and diesel (gazole). Select the right type for your rental car, as European diesel engines are common. Unleaded petrol is often labelled as “Sans Plomb 95” or “Sans Plomb 98,” referring to the octane rating.

Speed Limits and Tickets in Provence

Ensure you familiarize yourself with local driving laws. In France, you drive on the right-hand side of the road. Speed limits are usually 30-50 km/h in towns, 80 km/h on departmental roads, and 110-130 km/h on motorways, depending on the weather conditions. Foreign drivers in Provence should be especially mindful of speed traps and the risk of traffic tickets. Speed cameras are common throughout France, and they are often strategically placed just after speed limit changes or on stretches of road where it’s tempting to drive faster, such as long, open highways. Tickets issued from these cameras will usually find their way to you through your car rental agency, which can add additional handling fees to the cost of the fine. 

When we travelled in Provence each time, we were shocked to get more than one traffic ticket for speeding, even though we often only went 5 km over the limits. It’s almost advisable to plan on budgeting to pay at least one or two fines, as avoiding the speed traps as a tourist seems impossible. Be sure to ask the agent at the rental car agency how these fines are handled, as often the different agencies will process the fines in different manners, and you want to ensure the fines are paid as soon as possible, as often they are reduced for prompt payment.

In the end, staying in a small town in Provence is all about savouring life’s simple pleasures: the charm of historic cobblestone streets, the aroma of fresh lavender wafting through the air, and the joy of discovering hidden gems at the local markets. Whether you’re indulging in leisurely dinners on the patio, exploring the breathtaking landscapes of the Luberon Valley, or simply basking in the warmth of Provençal hospitality, there’s a magic here that leaves you feeling refreshed and inspired. So pack your bags, embrace the slower pace, and let Provence weave its spell on you—because once you’ve experienced the joy of small-town life in this sun-dappled region, you’ll be counting down the days until your next visit.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Staying in a Small Town in Provence: Everything You Need to Know for the Perfect Vacation first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Our previous self-guided walking tour focused primarily on following in the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh. Van Gogh lived and worked here in Arles, and some of his most prolific works of art were made during his time in his yellow house. Featured in many of his paintings were remnants of the ancient Roman ruins of Arles, as they are hard to miss and truly a part of the fabric of this city. And just like this mesmerized Van Gogh a hundred years ago, they fascinate visitors daily. So join us as we travel back in time, long before Van Gogh, to peek into the Roman and Medieval world of Arles.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Walking Tour of Ancient Arles
2. History
3. Admission to Historical Sights
4. How To Get To Arles
5. By Train
6. Alyscamps, the Roman Necropolis
7. Tour des Mourgues
8. Théâtre Antique d'Arles
9. Arles Amphitheatre
10. Rue Voltaire
11. Amédée Pichot fountain
12. The Porte de la Cavalerie
13. Quay Marx Dormoy
14. Thermes de Constantin
15. Musée Réattu
16. Place du Forum
17. Van Gogh Café
18. Cryptoporticus 
19. The Obelisk
20. Church of St. Trophime
21. Cloître Saint-Trophime
22. Jardin Des Arts

Map of Walking Tour of Ancient Arles

History

Arles has a rich and storied history that dates back thousands of years. The Ligurians were the first known people to inhabit this area around 800 BC. In the 2nd century BC, Arles came under Roman rule, and the village flourished with the construction of the canal connecting the Mediterranean Sea to the city. The Romans sought to build huge architectural landmarks that included the Arles Amphitheatre and the Roman Theatre, which were built during this period. Both of which we can still see prominently featured in the city today. 

The Roman Era

During the Roman era of Arles, the city became a vital hub for trade due to its strategic location along the Rhône River, which made facilitating commerce and cultural exchange a breeze. As the city grew, it became the centre of arts and culture in the Roman “Provincias,” a Latin phrase which referred to the territories that the Roman Republic controlled. And where the name Provence came from.

Many Emperors frequently were drawn to the city of Arles. And even would use it as a home base during their military campaigns. Emperor Constantine I, especially favoured the city. Under his rule, the Roman Baths were built in Arles to mirror the Baths of Constantine in Rome. His son Constantine II was born in Arles, and his son Emperor Constantine III went on to declare Arles as the capital of Rome when he moved there in 408!

The Fall of Rome

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Arles continued to hold lots of power over the rest of the South of France. It was still a major center for trade and commerce along the Rhone River. But soon, its prominence was eclipsed by the ever-growing port of Marseilles. Since Marseille was located right along the Medieterran, they could accept larger ships from farther away into their ports. And before long, Arles ceased to hold any real political power. 

Admission to Historical Sights

While many of the Roman ruins can be seen, at least in part, from outside the ticketed area, visiting the interior of many of these sights is well worth the admission fee. You get up close and personal. Explore hidden interiors, and even delve below the city to see the internal structure holding it up today.

The best ticket to buy for our self-guided tour is the Pass Avantage. This gives you access to six monuments and four museums. While that might seem like a lot, it’s mainly the monuments we’re focused on, and the museums are simply a bonus. If you are planning to spend more than one day in Arles, this is great as it will allow you more time to check out the additional museums. The ticket is valid for six months, so if you prefer to split this tour into two days, you can take everything at your own pace.

Pass Avantage Price

Adults 19€ | Reduced 16€ | Free for children under 18 accompanied by a parent. You can buy your Pass Avantage at the first stop on our guided tour.

For the most up-to-date opening hours for each stop on the tour, check this handy guide.

If you don’t want to buy the monuments and instead would rather pick and choose only a few different locations to go inside, I’ve included all the individual entry prices in this post.

How To Get To Arles

By Car

Arles is easily reached by car via the N113 and A54 highways from Marseille or D570 via Avignon.

By Train

If you are staying in towns like Nimes, Avignon or Marseille, you can also opt to take the TER train. These trains run very frequently and are often even quicker than driving! But note that most small Provencal villages around Arles don’t have public transit. So, in that case, driving will be the only option.

Where to Park

One of the best spots to park, where there are lots of spaces, and it’s very central, is at the Parking du Centre. Along the Rue Emile Fassin. I’ve made sure to mark that on the map. Parking costs 2€ an hour. There is also a public washroom kiosk outside this parking lot. But remember, these require a 0.20€ coin to get use. I always make sure to carry some coins as often “public” doesn’t mean “free” in Provence.

How Long is the Walking Tour

I would recommend spending an entire day in Arles. There is much to see and do besides the stops mentioned here on this tour. You’ll want to stop for food, and there are great shopping opportunities all along the colourful and quaint streets. As mentioned above, if you are staying in Arles, you can also split this tour up at your leisure. This means less walking all at once, and it will be a slightly more relaxed few days.

Alyscamps, the Roman Necropolis

Our journey back hundreds of years to ancient Arles begins on the city’s edge. Along what was once the ancient Roman road to Aurelia. Here hides a great Roman cemetery dating back to the 4th century AD. Behind the tall iron gate and under rows of poplar trees, we find the archaic Alyscamps, a Roman Necropolis. 

“Alyscamps” is a corruption of the original Latin name Elisii Camp. In English, we call this the Elysian Fields, which in Greek mythology refers to the afterlife paradise for heroic and virtuous souls. 

History of the Alyscamps

During the Roman Empire, burials were not allowed within the city limits. Therefore, it was commonplace for the roadways leading into cities to be lined with tombs and mausoleums. The cemetery followed the Roman practice of inhumation. Inhumation dates back at least to the Middle Paleolithic period. The oldest form of inhumation was done by hollowing out a trench in the ground and covering the body with rocks and dirt.

But for the Romans, buried their deceased in the ground inside stone tombs or sarcophagi. The burial ground accommodated various social classes, from common citizens to prominent figures of the time. This included everyone from military officers to merchants. Strolling down the main road, you can still see hundreds of these old sarcophagi and tombs lining the ancient Roman road. Stop to look at some of the details which can still be seen on these tombs, which are almost over 2000 years old.

The Saints of the Alyscamp

With the spread of Christianity, the Alyscamps gained even greater significance. This was largely because Saint Genesius was buried here after his beheading and subsequent martyrdom. Saint Trophimus, the first Bishop of Arles, was also buried here. With these high-profile burials, people from all over the country started to want to have the honour of being buried here. The Rhone River became somewhat of a burial highway. Families had their loved ones shipped on boats in from all over Europe to be buried in such a distinguished cemetery. And tombs had to be stacked three layers deep to accommodate the influx.

The Decline of Alyscamps

But in 1152, Saint Trophimus’ relics were moved to the Arles cathedral. This was the start of the end for the Alyscamps. Having lost its most important “resident,” its popularity dried up. And within a hundred years, the site was abandoned, and the tombs were systematically looted. Sarcophagi were given as gifts to distinguished visitors of the city. And many of the gravestones were dismantled to use as building materials. Some sarcophagi were even used as water troughs for cattle.

Van Gogh’s Alyscamps

But the Alyscamps never lost its natural beauty. And during the 19th century, the locals started to use it as a public park. Here they could stroll and remark on the ancient graves still present in the rubble. It was a favourite spot for Van Gogh when he lived in Arles. He even made a point to bring his fellow painting partner Paul Gaughin to the Alyscamps. Here each one made their own interpretation of the site’s picturesque and evocative atmosphere. To learn more about Van Gogh’s time in Arles, read our dedicated Van Gogh-ian Self-Guided Tour of Arles.

The Eglise Saint Honorat

Saint Honorat was Archbishop of Arles in the 3rd century. When he died in 429 AD, his tomb became a prominent pilgrimage site for the early Christians. In the mid-11th century, a Romanesque church was built inside Les Alyscamps and named after him. Much of the old church has fallen into ruins, but the east and west aisles still survive today. As well as the massive lantern tower that dominated the skyline inside.

The building has almost entirely been left to the elements, and yet there are so many aspects of the original architecture that you can study inside. It’s a forgotten treasure, and even without being covered in stained glass and lavish ornamentation, there is such an earnest beauty to this church.

Individual Entry Price for Les Alyscamps: 5€

Tour des Mourgues

Walk northwest along Avenue des Alyscamps. On the northwest corner of Boulevard Emile Combes, you’ll see a great stone wall called the Tour des Mourgues. The Mourgues Tower is the most well-preserved of the circular towers that flanked the city’s defensive ramparts. The tower gets its name from the nearby monastery founded by Bishop Césaire in the 6th century. The monastery was the primary residence of nuns (called morgues in Latin.) Initially, The tower was circular but modified in the 14th to this more octagonal appearance.

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Théâtre Antique d’Arles

Walk along Mnt Vauban street, turning up the Rue de la Calade as it curves around the back of the iconic Roman Theatre. Built in the 1st century BC, this well-preserved theatre was built to accommodate up to 8,000 spectators! The theatre was constructed during the reign of Emperor Augustus. Unlike the Colosseum or Roam Amphitheatre, which were the centre of gladiatorial events, this building served as a venue for various theatrical performances. Much lighter and less violent entertainment for the Roman public to enjoy.

History of the Roman Theatre of Arles

The theatre’s design resembles a Roman amphitheatre which has been cut in half. Rows and rows of tiered seating are wrapped around the stage in a semi-circular shape. The structure is built into the side of a hill, maximizing its acoustics and providing excellent views of the stage from all angles. Originally, the would have been a wooden roof and a large rear wall at the back of the stage. Today, only the orchestra section, seating rows, and two large Corinthian columns survive. Little more than a few pieces of rubble remain of the once impressive rear wall, which would have acted as a theatrical backdrop for the actors.

As a Roman citizen of Provence, you could attend everything from theatrical plays, musical performances, poetry readings, and political and religious gatherings here in the Roman Theatre. Just as theatre is today, this place would have been essential to the town’s social and cultural life.

Like many other ancient Roman structures, the theatre gradually disappeared during the Middle Ages. Over the centuries, parts of the theatre were repurposed for other constructions. The ruins were later rediscovered and excavated during the 19th and 20th centuries.

Today, this theatre is still used for the very same purpose it once was, to host musical and theatrical events. When we visited, they were performing a soundcheck for the concert later that evening. The scaffolding of the lighting rig carefully places around the stone outline of the old stage. It is so nice to see these sites still in use today, rather than simply being a relic of a bygone era.\

Individual Entry Price for Roman Theatre of Arles: 9€

Arles Amphitheatre

Make your way back onto the Rue de la Calade onto the Rue Porte de Laure, which wraps around the giant arches of the majestic Arles Amphitheatre. The Arles Amphitheatre dates back to 90 AD. The Arena was primarily used for hosting various public spectacles and gladiatorial games. This enormous Arena could hold an estimated 20,000 spectators.

Gladiatorial Events

Gladiatorial contests were a central part of Roman entertainment. These events served to entertain and satisfy the masses while also reinforcing the power and authority of the Roman Empire. These battles were thrilling and often brutal spectacles in the Roman amphitheatre. 

Gladiators in Arles were typically slaves, prisoners of war, or condemned criminals who were forced to fight to the death for the audience’s amusement. These fighters were trained in specialized gladiator schools, known as ludi, where they honed their combat skills and developed signature fighting techniques.

The spectacles in Arles included various forms of combat, such as one-on-one duels, group battles, and even confrontations with wild animals like lions and bears. The contests were often organized and sponsored by wealthy individuals or the Roman government to gain popularity and political influence.

As social attitudes changed, the demand for such violent spectacles waned. And by the 5th century AD, the tradition of gladiatorial games in Arles began to fade, and the amphitheatre was eventually repurposed for other activities. 

Amphitheatre in the Middle Ages

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the theatre’s purpose shifted. In the Middle Ages, it was transformed into a fortress to protect the inhabitants of Arles. Four towers were added to either side of the fortress to keep a lookout over the city. Houses, stables, and workshops were built right into the arches of the arena. It was indeed a town within a town, with a square where the arena once stood. There was even a chapel inside. If you look closely at the walls when you enter, you can still see holes where different structural supports were installed to build two-story houses inside the archways.

Arena Layout

Entering this elliptical-shaped amphitheatre, you can really appreciate how this is a masterpiece of Roman engineering and architecture. It measures about 136 meters long and 109 meters wide, and its exterior reaches a height of around 21 meters.

The structure consists of two levels of arches, a grand entrance, and a complex system of corridors, galleries, and staircases that allow easy access for spectators. You can access almost all these areas today with your entry ticket. Allowing you to really get a feel of the entirety of the arena.

The Interior

While the main attractions were gladiatorial contests, other events included mock sea battles, animal hunts, and public executions. Climb to the top of the Arena for the most incredible panoramic views of the city and the surrounding countryside.

Bullfighting

In the 19th century, efforts were made to restore and protect this iconic structure. But instead of hosting Gladitorial events, it was repurposed into a bullfighting arena. Bullfighting in Provence is known as “Course Camarguaise.” It differs from the well-known Spanish-style bullfighting in that the bull is not killed in the theatre. Moreover, the focus is on the agility and daring of the participants rather than inflicting harm on the animal.

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During Course Camarguaise, agile and skilled participants, known as “raseteurs,” attempt to remove small tassels or rosettes attached to the bull’s horns. The raseteurs use a claw-shaped hook called a “raset” to try to grab them. The objective is to demonstrate their bravery and deftness in evading the charging bull while trying to collect as many rosettes as possible. All the while dressed in spectacular costumes that sparkle and shine in the sun and impress a captive audience. Van Gogh himself loved to frequent these events and even captured a vibrant scene in the arena of spectators viewing the bullfighting games.

Individual Entry Price Arles Amphitheatre: 9€

Rue Voltaire

After finishing touring the Amphitheatre, take a walk away along the Rue Voltaire. But sure to look back down the street towards the Amphitheatre as I loved this framed view of it.

The Rue Voltaire is an adorable cobblestone street flanked on all sides by charming shops, crawling ivy, and those classical Provencal brightly painted window shutters. This is the perfect place to grab a bit to eat, as the people-watching opportunities along this road are unmatched. 

Bistrot le Mistral is a great choice for a hyper-local French menu that changes daily. Don’t let the handwritten chalkboard menu scare you away. Chalkboards are the best indication that the food is fresh, as it signals the dishes change with the season or, indeed, with the daily whims of the chef! For such artistic French plating, the prices are very affordable. A must-check out while you’re in town

Amédée Pichot fountain

Returning to the road, stop to admire the incredible Amédée Pichot fountain, found at the intersection of Rue Amédée Pichot and Rue Voltaire. This elegant fountain and accompanying mosaic were built in honour of the 19th-century journalist and writer Amédée Pichot. The installation was a love letter from Pierre-Amédée Pichot to his father. When his father was alive, he purchased a monumental painting from French artist Paul Balze at his salon in Paris. The painting was an allegory of poetry inspired by a painting by Raffaello. Before Amédée Pichot died, he wanted to gift the painting to the people of the city of Arles. So they could enjoy its beauty instead of the painting being cooped up inside his house. But the city couldn’t find an appropriate location, and his dream was abandoned.

After his father died, Pierre-Amédée Pichot was driven to accomplish the goal that his father had abandoned. On a recent visit to Paris, he was inspired by the fountain outside the Place Saint Michel, which stood on the exterior of a large wall. Pierre managed to buy the house on the corner along Rue Voltaire to use its prominent exterior to build this monument. But you can’t simply hang a painting outside in the elements. So instead, he had a great reproduction artist reproduce the painting on enamel ceramic tiles. Now the painting is preserved in enamel and hanging in such a place of honour. Drawing the eyes of all those who pass it by.

The Porte de la Cavalerie

At the end of the Rue Voltaire stands the great Porte de la Cavalerie, also known as the Cavalry Gate. This ancient Roman gate was where people would have entered the city for the first time along the long road to Arles. The enormous, crumbling, stone defensive walls date back to the 3rd century AD. Sturdy stone towers on either side of the arched opening are called the “barbicans.” They were designed to reinforce the gate’s defensive capabilities, allowing guards and soldiers to monitor and defend the entrance effectively.

Quay Marx Dormoy

Walk through the gates and turn west along the Quay Marx Dormoy, which curves around the famous Rhone River. René Marx Dormoy was a French politician. During his tenure as mayor, he played a significant role in French politics and administration, advocating for social reforms and progressive urban development. Dormoy’s commitment to public service and contributions left a lasting impact on the communities he served, and he is given pride of place here in Arles with such a picturesque pathway named after him.

Wander along the riverside walk for a few minutes. Gazing out at the exquisite landscape which wraps around the river. The Rhône River holds immense historical importance to Arles, shaping its identity and playing a pivotal role in its development over the centuries. During the Roman Empire, the river connected Arles to the rest of the Empire. With goods being both imported and exported from this thoroughfare.

Post-Roman Empire, the river continued as a vital trade route connecting the city to the Mediterranean Sea. Goods, such as agricultural produce, textiles, and luxury items, passed through this waterway. Today, the river is no longer a busy port, with huge freight ships landing in Marseille. But you’ll be able to watch dozens of River Cruise boats gently floating on the water, taking in the sights of this majestic waterway.

Starry Night Over the Rhône

One of the most prolific reasons people view this part of the river is to study the inspiration for Vincent Van Gogh’s famous paintings, Starry Night Over the Rhône. His home in Arles, the Yellow House, was just around the corner, and it was right here where he came to immortalize the river forever.

The painting features a starry night sky filled with a vibrant and swirling mix of blues and yellows. The brushstrokes are bold and expressive, making the scene almost turbulent. The stars appear to twinkle and dance across the canvas. Hidden in the bottom right corner, we can see a couple taking a leisurely stroll along the riverbank. Just like we are doing today!

Thermes de Constantin

A small staircase leads you down away from the Quay towards the Rue du Grand Prieuré. As you make your way down, you are met with a large curved brick wall. This is the exterior of the great Thermes de Constantin. The Thermes de Constantin, also known as the Baths of Constantine, is an ancient Roman bath house.

Built in the 4th century AD, the Thermes de Constantin was named in honour of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great. When we hear the word “bath” today, we think of a small, plastic or enamel tub meant for one person. But during the Roman Empire, public baths were an enormous structure where dozens, if not hundreds, of people could come together. Bathing back then was not just to maintain your personal hygiene, but it was also great. For Romans, bathhouses were a social and cultural center where people from all walks of life would gather, relax, and socialize.

Using a Roman Bath House

Roman baths were grand, impressive structures. Stepping inside, you can walk around the space on raised platforms to really appreciate the grandeur of the building. While most of the decoration has been lost to time, imagine for yourself as you walk through the now-barren interior with stunning mosaic decorations and intricate marble sculptures. These were all meant to showcase the opulence and grandeur of Rome. The walls would have been adorned with frescoes depicting scenes from mythology, everyday life, and the glories of the Roman Empire.

Visitors would enter through an imposing entrance hall known as the frigidarium, which led to a series of interconnected rooms offering different temperature baths. These rooms included the tepidarium (warm room) and the caldarium (hot room), equipped with underfloor heating systems known as hypocausts. You can still see several of these underfloor heating systems today; look for the signs that point it out.

Roman baths were not only for physical relaxation but also hubs for intellectual and cultural exchange. Philosophical discussions, debates, and other social interactions would occur within these spaces.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 5€

Musée Réattu

Leaving the Roman Baths, you can opt to visit the Musée Réattu just down the street. Entry to the Musée Réattu is included in the Pass Avantage. If you’re not an avid art fan, you can skip this stop. But the museum is very small, so even if you just want to peek inside to see a few pieces, you won’t spend very much time inside.

The Musée Réattu is housed in a former 15th-century priory. Exploring some of the historic parts of the building is one of the best reasons to stop here. The museum primarily showcases the world of Jacques Réattu, an influential French artist who was born in Arles. Réattu’s artistic journey took him from his hometown to the vibrant Paris art scene. It was in Paris that he gained recognition for his exceptional painting. But he never forgot about his beloved home of Arles. While Van Gogh might be the biggest name to have worked in Arles, Réattu is the homegrown pride of the city.

Réattu’s artistic repertoire encompassed various subjects, from historical and mythological themes. His works often exhibited a harmonious blend of classicism and romanticism, with a keen attention to detail and a deep understanding of human emotions.

Picasso’s Arlesienne

Also included in the museum’s collection is a series of eight portraits painted by Picasso of his muse Jacqueline Roque, dressed as an Arlesienne. The term “Arlesienne” was often used to describe the traditional costume worn by women in the Arles region in the 19th century. This traditional dress typically includes a white or light-coloured blouse, a full black skirt, and an elaborate, intricately embroidered black velvet bodice. The outfit is completed with a headdress adorned with ribbons and flowers, which vary depending on the occasion. The Arlesienne has become an enduring symbol of Provencal and was also frequently painted by Gaugin and Van Gogh.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 8€

Place du Forum

From the museum, let’s meander down toward the Place du Forum. Turn left onto Rue Dominique Maisto, then right onto Rue du Sauvage, leading into Rue de la Place. The Place du Forum is a picturesque, vibrant square steeped in history and surrounded by charming cafes and shops.

The Place du Forum is named after the Roman Forum that once stood a few blocks away. Today, remnants of the ancient Roman city can still be seen embedded into the walls of the square. Look closely at the building on the corner, now the Nord-Pinus Hotel. You can see it embedded in the hotel are two Roman Corinthian columns. These tall columns once supported a Roman temple that occupied this space. 

A Corinthian column can be recognized immediately by its elaborate capitals decorated in acanthus leaves arranged in a spiral pattern, surrounding a central bell-shaped element called the “abacus.” 

Van Gogh Café

At the heart of the Place du Forum stands the iconic Le Cafe La Nuit. Better known as the Van Gogh Café. This café features a bright yellow facade, believed to be the same café that inspired Van Gogh’s famous artwork, “Café Terrace at Night.”

While the cafe might stand in the same spot as the original cafe from the painting, the ownership has changed hands many times. And today, the cafe sadly has a poor reupitation as a tourist trap. If you want to stop for an aperitif, consider L’Apostrophe Restaurant two doors down instead. If you can snag a spot outside, you have a beautiful view of the Yellow Cafe without the tourist trap prices and poor-quality food and service. After all this walking, you’ll definitely have deserved a sweet aperitif.

Cryptoporticus 

Continue your journey towards the Cryptoporticus of the Roman Forum. This spot is just a few blocks from the Place du Forum. You must enter the old Town Hall of Arles to get inside. Once inside, you’ll find the entrance to the underground passageway. 

The Cryptoportiques d’Arles, also known as the Arles Cryptoporticus, dates back to the 1st century BC. These underground vaults were constructed to serve various functions, including supporting the enormous Roman Forum above. The Cryptoportiques consist of a network of underground galleries and corridors. These galleries are supported by a series of arches and pillars, characteristic of Roman architectural engineering. The ceilings of the passageways are vaulted, allowing for the even distribution of weight and enhancing the structure’s stability. Walking around in the dark, you feel like you’ve entered a labyrinth, and perhaps a minotaur lurks around the next corner…

The walls and pillars of the Cryptoportiques were made using locally sourced stone, primarily limestone and sandstone. The choice of these durable materials contributed to the fact that this part of Roman Arles has been so pristinely preserved today. Since the temperature was much cooler in these underground passages, the Cryptoportiques were also employed as storage space.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 5€

The Obelisk

After returning to street level, head out the doors from the city hall, which leads onto the Place de la République, the heart of the historic city center. Standing in the centre of the square is the monumental Obélisque d’Arles. The Obélisque d’Arles is one of the oldest surviving Roman obelisks in France. Standing approximately 15 meters (about 49 feet) in height. The Obelisk is made of reddish-pink granite, not native to France. This means that the Obelisk would have been brought in as far as Asian Minor in the region of Troy.

This majestic Obelisk dates back to the 4th century AD, although when it was first installed in the city, it stood in the centre of the Roman circus. A Roman circus, also known as “circus maximus” in Latin, was a large, elongated, and open-air venue used primarily for chariot racing, one of ancient Rome’s most popular and thrilling forms of entertainment. 

When the Roman circus was demolished, the Obelisk collapsed or was knocked down. Breaking it into two different parts. It wasn’t until 1389 that the Obelisk was discovered and brought into the Amphitheatre to be displayed. In 1676, Louis XIV decreed it should be moved into the town square. And four engravings dedicated to the glory of Louis XIV were added. The decorative base was added in the 19th century, along with the fountain’s basin and surrounding bronze lion head water spouts.

Church of St. Trophime

On the east side of the town square stands the great Church of St. Trophime.  While the majority of the church we see today was completed in the 12th century, such an extraordinary structure took time to complete, and there are elements from the 11th century and even earlier still to be found throughout.

The church is named for Saint Trophimus, one of the early Christian saints and the first bishop of Arles. Originally the church was named Saint Stephen, but in 972, the relics of Saint Trophimus were reinterred, and the church was renamed in his honour.

Its exterior facade, adorned with exquisite Romanesque carvings, is a magnificent example of medieval artistry and storytelling through art. Back in the medieval era, peasants were barely literate. Communicating these religious ideas and stories through art and imagery was paramount.

The Portal

The elaborate portal, known as the “Portal of the Last Judgment,” is the doorway through which visitors have entered the church for hundreds of years. For our purposes on this tour of Roman art and architecture in Arles, you should note how the archway leading into the church is reminiscent of a Roman triumphal arch.

The Tympanum

In the semi-circle above the doorway is the tympanum. Here we can see the image of Christ, seated, holding the Bible on his knees. On either side of him are found animals representing the four evangelists. The winged lion for Saint Mark, an angel for Saint Matthew, an eagle for Saint John and a winged bull for Saint Luke. Surrounding the archivolt (a moulding that frames the arch) is a choir of angels with vivid expressions; you can hear them singing.

Lintels and Pilasters

The lintel, the band of stone that runs under the tympanum, depicts the souls of the dead in a The souls on the left are dressed in fine garb procession bound for judgement. The souls on the left (the righteous) march towards the centre, led by an angel with outstretched wings towards the twelve apostles. They are seated in the centre, holding a book on their knees, ready for judgment. On the right, we have the souls of the damned, who have been turned away as they walk naked and chained toward their doom.

The pilasters that support the lintel are also very interesting, and it’s worth studying the intricate carvings on their base. Evil beasts and monsters torment the souls of the damned. And the huge face of Samson’s slain lion is almost wrapped around the base of the column. These tormented scenes are contrasted above, with the column capitals covered in various decorative elements like acanthus leaves, foliage, and vegetal motifs, almost like they depict heaven and hell throughout this imagery.

Outer Frieze

A frieze behind the pilasters depicts the major saints of the Church, including Saint Stephen and Saint Trophime. You can spot Saint Trophime on the left dressed in his episcopal costume holding a curved cane, a Crozier, in his hand. He is also seen being crowned two angles.

If you look closely, there is a secondary frieze above the apostles which illustrates the childhood of Christ. Starting with the Annunciation made to Mary, the dream of Joseph into the Massacre of the Innocents and the Flight to Egypt and finally, the Nativity.

Interior

Entry into the church’s interior is free, but the St. Trophime Cloisers, located next door, require an admission fee. Thankfully if you purchased the Pass Avantage, this is included in your pass. We will explore the cloisters after briefly walking through the church’s interior.

Aubusson Tapestries

Entering the church, we can tell right away that this is a romanesque construction. The columns are thick and rudimentary. Lacking the lightness of many later gothic churches. There is a heavy atmosphere inside. The stoney interior of the church is lacking in carved decorations. Several side chapels were rebuilt during the Gothic periods, as these are doubtlessly the most elaborate designs inside the church. To add some interest to the austere church, tapestries were hung on the blank walls. These date back to the 17th century and illustrate scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.

Early Christian sarcophagi

Throughout the church, see if you can spot the three early Christian sarcophagi that were brought to the church from their original resting place in Les Alsycamps. Unlike the remaining tombs in Les Alsycamps, these sarcophagi are covered in complicated and precise carvings. They almost appear architectural in their design, comprising arches, pilasters and niches that frame tiny figures representing various biblical stories. The earliest of these tombs dates to the 4th century, although they only made this church their resting place in the 19th century.

Chapel of Saint-Genès

Make a point to stop at the chapel of Saint-Genès to the north of the transept. This is where one of the old sarcophagi is held and where you can find a beautiful white marble statue of the Virgin Mary. This statue was originally placed in the Saint-Honorat-des-Alyscamps and is a great example of the beautiful decorations that would have once adorned the church we saw at the start of this tour.

Reliquary chapel

My favourite part of the church is the reliquary chapel. Hidden behind a filagree wrought-iron gate, under a blue-painted ceiling with stars dotting the sky, are dozens of golden reliquaries. A reliquary is a container to house and display relics, which are objects or remains believed to have a special connection to a saint or religious figure. These reliquaries are stunning works of art all on their own. The most important of these reliquaries is that of Saint Trophimus, patron of the church. But you can also see reliquary for Saint Stephen, Saint Anne, and even the Mother of Mary.

Cloître Saint-Trophime

Exiting the church, walk back onto the square and pass through the Palais de l’Archevêché. This leads you into an interior courtyard where you’ll find the entrance to the Cloître Saint-Trophime. Initially, the church would have been connected to these cloisters, but since the cloisters now require a ticketed entry, this side entrance was constructed to filter guests into the building here. Walking through this courtyard, be sure to admire the exquisite vantage point you have here to gaze up at the old Romanesque church tower.

History of Cloître Saint-Trophime

The Cloître Saint-Trophime was built during the 12th and 13th centuries. It served as the monastery’s private quarters for the canons of Saint-Trophime. It was a place for them to gather for prayer, contemplation, and meditation. Providing a quiet and peaceful sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Surrounding the cloisters are a dormitory, refectory and dining hall were also built where the canons could continue their private life outside the church. But just as these buildings were being constructed, the Counts of Provence moved from Arles to Aix and much of the wealth that the city had been used to dissipated.

Another big hit to the continued construction of the Cloisters was in 1348 when the Black Death came to Provence, vastly reducing the population of almost every infected. When the canons filled the cloister, these buildings became granaries and storehouses for food. As such, when you visit the dormitory, refectory and dining hall interiors, you’ll notice a difference in the style of these buildings.

The highlight of the cloister is its exquisite arcades adorned with elaborately sculpted capitals. These capitals depict various biblical scenes and religious figures. Each is intricately carved with meticulous detail.

Interior Courtyard

West Gallery

You enter through the gallery’s west portions into a space built around 1375. The southern and western galleries, built later in the construction of the cloisters, are Gothic, whereas the north and east galleries are Romasnaques.

The images on the columns here are devoted to religious figures and scenes popular in Provence. You” find the story of Samson slaying the lion, the stoning of St. Stephen, Mary Magdalene kissing Christ’s feet and the Coronation of the Virgin.

North Gallery

Each section of the cloisters is divided into the north, south, east and west galleries. The North Gallery’s main themes you can keep your eyes looking to spot as you stroll through the cloister. This is the resurrection of Christ and the glorification of the patron saints of the city, Saint Trophime and Saint Stephen.

Saint Trophime

To find Saint Trophime, head to the northwest corner of the cloisters. He stands with his right palm facing the viewer while the left holds onto his curved crook, although the top of the cane has since been broken off and lost to history. On his right and left, respectively, are Saint Peter and Saint John. Saint Peter sent Saint Trophime to Gaul, now modern-day France, to evangelize the people there and become Archbishop of Arles.

Above the doorways, you can make out the coat of arms carved onto the lintel. This image represents the coat of arms of Arles. You can see an eagle with spread wings wide; this symbolized the Holy Roman Emperor, who at the time ruled Arles.

Eastern Gallery

The eastern gallery columns focus on the passion of Christ. Throughout the carvings, you can see the Christ being flogged bare-chested while tied to a column. Judas is also widely represented here, carrying the purse of coins given to Judas in exchange for his betrayal and that fateful kiss. We also can spot scenes from the last supper.

South Gallery

The south gallery features columns telling how Saint Trophime became a saint. You can see depictions of St. Trophime and Christ himself blessing the Alyscamps, the miracles they performed, and even how they brought a knight back to life! See if you can spot the scene of falsely accursed men being hanged on the gibbet who were saved by Saint Trophime. And faced with this miracle, King Charlemagne was forced to set them free.

Be sure to take a walk inside the old stone dormitory building. Despite being completely empty, it’s worth entering to admire the ethereal glow of the tiny yet intricately painted, stained glass window that cast a golden glow into the room.

Heading to the second level, you can walk around the upper deck, which wraps around the lower level’s courtyard. From this vantage point, you have a stunning view of the cloisters below and an exquisite view of the old Romanesque Bell tower of the adjoining church.

Individual Entry Price the Cloisters: 6€

Jardin Des Arts

The cloisters are where we end the historical walking tour of Arles. But if you’re in search of the perfect on-theme place to enjoy a final meal in Arles, make your way to the Jardin Des Arts restaurant. This restaurant is located inside a 13th-century cloister. The Order of the Trinitarians founded their church here in 1198. And built a beautiful cloister and gardens where they lived and worked.

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During the Revolution, the property was abandoned and partially destroyed. All that remained was the nave and some parts of the old cloister galleries. Thanks to the restaurant’s efforts, many remaining spaces have been restored and transformed into stunning restaurants. You can eat inside below the old vaults or outside on their charming outdoor terrace, where you can relax amongst the beautiful greenery. The menu features some classic French dishes, but if you’ve never tried Daube, this is a wonderful place to try this Provencal classic.

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As you drive back to your home base or enjoy your dinner on the terrace, I hope you reflect on the wonderful journey we have taken into the ancient past of Arles. Hopefully, this tour allowed you to imagine yourself in the fascinating world of gladiators, emperors, and Roman antiquities. And that you leave Arles with a new sense of appreciation for all the people of this city who have helped preserve their past for generations to come.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Historical Walking Tour of Ancient Arles first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Nothing was as perfectly Provencal as waking up at dawn every morning and walking down to the local bakery. As you approach the boulangerie, be prepared for a sensory overload. The aroma of freshly baked bread wafts through the air, drawing you in with its irresistible allure. Your eyes feast on a display of golden baguettes, flaky croissants, and other delicacies.

We came to our local boulangerie every day on our trip. And by the end of the two-week-long stay, it was like saying goodbye to new friends. They even gifted us a bottle of their homemade lavender honey. It was all wrapped up and tied with a bow. I am still thinking about how quickly we can return to Provence, almost soley to see those people again! And of course, eat their delicious baked treats!

Table Of Contents

1. French Bread Laws
2. What Makes Provencal Boulangeries Unique?
3. Be Aware of Opening Hours
4. Boulangerie vs Pâtisseries
5. Always Greet the Boulanger
6. Choosing the Right Baguette
7. French Bread
8. Viennoiseries
9. French Terms for the Boulangerie

French Bread Laws

One of the greatest parts of staying in a small town in Provence is getting to visit the local boulangeries. No matter how small the town, there will be a boulangerie. And how do I know this? Well, it’s the law. In France, a law known as the “Décret Pain” (Bread Decree) regulates the production of baguettes. The law ensures that traditional French baguettes must be made with specific ingredients and cannot contain any additives or preservatives. The law also stipulates that baguettes must be sold in the same place they are made to ensure freshness. Even the smallest villages, without any storefronts, will have a large “dépôt de pain” van that will pull up every morning to sell fresh bread to the residents.

What Makes Provencal Boulangeries Unique?

Provence boasts a bountiful agricultural landscape. Looking out your window, you can see the golden wheat fields dancing in the wind across the countryside. Thanks to locally sourced flour, olive oil, herbs, and other regional produce, you’ll find that Provencal bakeries add their own unique flavour to classic French baked goods. And the laid-back atmosphere is much less intense than in big cities where boulangeries appear to be competing against each other for the “best croissant.” Provence has no competition but an environment of mutual respect, admiration and collaboration.

Be Aware of Opening Hours

Boulangeries, especially those in Provence, tend to have some interesting, shall we say, opening hours. The very best way to check the most up-to-date hours is to look at the sign outside the boulangerie. These will always list their opening hours for each day of the week (as often they will be different throughout the week.) Boulangeries typically open around 7 am as many people come here first thing in the morning to pick up food for the day or perhaps stock their restaurant pantry. Most boulangerie will close down from 12 pm till 2 or 3 pm for their European lunchtime. Often there will be certain days of the week they will close down completely, and in those cases, you’ll always find another boulangerie in town that will be open. They strive to ensure these are on opposite days so there is never a day without bread!

Boulangerie vs Pâtisseries

All throughout the French countryside, you’ll see signs for “Boulangeries” and “Pâtisseries.” But what is the difference between the two? Although they might both sell baked goods, a boulangerie comes from the French word “Boulanger,” which means “baker.” Boulangeries are required by law to bake their bread right on the premises. Whereas patisseries can include goods baked externally but sold in-store.

While Pâtisseries specialize in a wide range of sweet pastries, cakes, and desserts, don’t think you won’t find amazing sweet treats in the boulangerie. Most local bakers are just as talented at making delectable pastries as the ones you’ll find in patisseries.

Always Greet the Boulanger

Upon entering, you must greet the Boulanger or their staff. A simple “Bonjour” or “comment ça va?” (Hello / How are you) will go a long way in establishing a friendly connection. In France, not greeting someone with “bonjour” is considered VERY rude. And it will put the entire shopping experience off the wrong foot. 

Choosing the Right Baguette

No visit to a boulangerie in Provence is complete without indulging in a fresh baguette. To ask for a baguette simply say, “Une baguette, s’il vous plaît” (One baguette, please). But more often than not, there will be more than one option for your fresh baguettes. Unlike in North America, where a baguette is a baguette, France has many different varieties.

Baguette Ordinaire vs Traditional

The two most common varieties are the baguette ordinaire and the baguette traditional. An ordinary baguette will always be your cheapest option and is exactly what you would expect from a baguette. A traditional or artisan baguette will be slightly darker in colour, with a thicker, crispier crust, often with pinched ends. This is always my choice as I love how the flavour is more pronounced in the crust when it is a little more well done.

Pain d’Épi

A specialty type of baguette, often baked on weekends in Provence, is the Pain d’Épi. This type of bread is shaped like an ear of wheat, and often, they add different kinds of seeds onto the top of the bread. The different “ears” along the baguette make it easy to tear apart with your hands and share amongst the table. 

Baguette Levain

Another find is the baguette levain or sourdough baguette. As a huge fan of sourdough bread, combining the sourdough taste with the crispy baguette form was absolute perfection!

Baguette Complete

If you’re looking for something different, see if they sell a baguette complete. This kind of baguette is made with wholemeal flour and is more like multigrain bread. Sesame, poppy and flax are both baked into the bread and spread on top of the crust. A deliciously deep flavour.

French Bread

When buying a loaf of bread (or pain in French) in the boulangerie, the most popular variety is pain de campagne. Pain de Campagne, or country-style bread, is shaped into an oval with a thick crust and usually made with a blend of wheat and white flour. Other popular varies are pain au levain (sourdough), and pain aux céréales (rustic loaf with seeds and whole grains).

If you would like your bread pre-sliced, which makes it easier to serve on picnics, be sure to request for tranché (sliced.)

Provencal Fougasse

Fougasse is a traditional Provencal bread best recognized for its unique design, resembling a leaf or an ear of wheat. Bakers create decorative slashes and cuts in the dough, which open up during baking, giving the bread its characteristic shape. Fougasse highlights the use of olive oil from the region, adding a delightful flavour and aroma to the bread. Popular filling baked into the bread includes olives, cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, herbs (such as rosemary, thyme, or oregano), and occasionally bacon or ham. 

Viennoiseries

Viennoiseries are a category of baked goods you find in the French boulangerie. These are sweet pastries typically enjoyed at breakfasts and are often served with coffee, hot chocolate, or tea. Although eating your pastries with breakfast is very popular, these sweets are made twice daily so you can enjoy them both in the morning and afternoon. Typical Viennoiseries include croissants, pain aux chocolate, brioche, palmiers, chausson aux pommes and more!

Croissants

Next on our bread-buying adventure is the irresistible croissant. As you gaze upon the golden crescents of buttery goodness, allow yourself to be transported to a world of pure indulgence. And don’t think about the butter or calories… Just close your eyes and enjoy. While you can always opt for the traditional butter croissant, my favourites are the pain au chocolate or chocolate croissants. The same croissant base is used to fold in sticks of rich chocolate which melts in the centre of the pastry.

Pain Aux Raisins

Pain aux Raisins are made with the same croissant dough but are mixed with raisins and sometimes a pistachio filling. The raw dough is then rolled into a flat, round shape. It is meant to mirror the image of a snail shell, and as such, it is often called an “escargot.“ Strange and perhaps unappetizing name for a sweet pastry, but don’t let that put you off; these are absolutely delicious.

Palmier

A Palmier, also known as “Palm Leaf” or “Elephant Ear,” is made from a thin, flaky puff pastry. When baked, the dough is sprinkled with sugar, which caramelizes to create a crisp, golden-brown exterior. The name “Palmier” (meaning “palm tree” in French) comes from its resemblance to a palm leaf.

Sacristain

If you’re looking for something a little different, go for the Sacristains. Sacristains are delicate, sweet, and irresistibly crispy! These pastries are covered in caramelized sugar and almonds on the outside and have tender, flaky layers on the inside. The layers of puff pastry as twisted before baking to meld all the different flavours together. The result is a pastry that almost resembles a length of twisted rope. These pastries can be found all over France but are very popular in Provence. Because of their long shape, they are ideal to have with a cup of coffee as you dip the pastry into it repeatedly. Adding that delicious rich, and slightly bitter flavour to the sweet pastry. 

Chocolate Torsades 

Also similar to the Sacristain are Chocolate Torsades. The word “Torsades” comes from the French term for “twists” or “braids,” which perfectly describes the pastry’s distinctive appearance. Chocolate Torsades are made from flaky, buttery puff pastry but theses are infused with cocoa or melted chocolate. Great for kids!

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Éclairs

One of the most classic French desserts has got to be Éclairs! This French pastry is known for its elongated shape, light choux pastry shell, and delectable fillings. The word “éclair” in French means “flash of lightning,” likely named due to the glistening chocolate glaze that resembles a shiny lightning bolt.

Éclairs are typically filled with flavoured creams or custards. This includes everything from vanilla or chocolate pastry cream, coffee-flavoured custard, or even fruit-flavoured creams. The pastries are then topped with glossy icing or chocolate ganache. Truly irresistible for anyone with a sweet tooth.

Tarte Tropézienne

If you love brioche, then you need to try out a Tarte Tropézienne. This amazing delicacy was born in southern France and is one of the most popular treats on the shelf. This pastry, often simply called “Tropézienne,” is made from a thick brioche bun sliced horizontally into two layers. A light, rich, cream filling is generously spread over the bottom layer. And the top is placed delicately back on top, like a sandwich. The top of the Tropézienne is then dusted with powdered sugar, giving it an elegant finish.

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The pastry’s name, “Tarte Tropézienne,” was inspired by the seaside town of Saint-Tropez. Famed actress Brigitte Bardot visited Saint-Tropez during the filming of the movie, “And God Created Woman,” in the 1950s. During filming, pastry artist Alexandre Micka presented Bardot with his unique take on a brioche tart. She loved it so much that she suggested naming it “La Tarte Tropézienne.” Her endorsement helped propel the pastry to fame and contributed to its widespread popularity today.

Charlotte 

A Charlotte is a classic and elegant French pastry that feels like a special treat. The dessert is iconic thanks to its ring of ladyfingers enclosing a luscious filling, usually made of fruit, custard, or mousse. It looks like a little crown filled with sweets.

Tartelettes Chiboust

Tartelettes Chiboust, also known as Tartelettes à la Chiboust or simply Chiboust Tartlets, are made from a thin pastry crust filled with wobbly custard cream. “Chiboust” refers to French pastry chef François Chiboust, credited with its creation. After the cream is added to the baked crust, it is baked again—this time with a sprinkling of sugar on top to create a caramelized crust atop the soft cream. The tartlets are usually garnished with fresh fruit, such as raspberries or strawberries. Really, whatever is in season!

Croque Monsieur & Croque Madame 

If you’re looking to pick up something savoury or perhaps something to have for lunch, you should always make a point to grab either the Croque Monsieur or Croque Madame. These classic French sandwiches are made with ham, cheese, and a layer of rich béchamel sauce. A Croque Monsieur is a ham and cheese sandwich grilled or baked until the bread becomes golden and crispy. A Croque Madame is a variation of the Croque Monsieur but with the addition of a fried or poached egg on top. It’s a little messy to eat but well worth the effort! Both sandwiches come on sliced bread or on a baguette, depending on the preference of your Boulanger.

French Terms for the Boulangerie

At the heart of every boulangerie in Provence lies a commitment to craftsmanship passed down through generations. The bakers’ dedication to preserving time-honoured techniques and using high-quality, locally sourced ingredients creates an unmistakable authenticity in every delicacy they offer. The experience of enjoying a warm croissant or a crusty baguette becomes a celebration of tradition, connecting us to the past while savouring the present. I hope you enjoyed this guide to exploring a French Boulangerie, and it helps you feel more confident in stepping inside your local boulangerie on your next trip to Provence!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate French Bakery Guide, a Boulangerie in Provence first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Just steps from the centre of town, shaded under the shadow of the Alpilles, hides the old asylum of Saint-Paul de Mausole. It was here, in 1899, that would-be famed artist Vincent Van Gogh came to seek treatment and refuge for the madness that plagued his creative mind. This self-guided tour unravels the layers of Van Gogh’s creative spirit. With each brushstroke, each captivating corner, and each soul-stirring story, you gain a deeper appreciation for the enduring impact of his work on art history and the human experience.

During his stay in Saint-Remy and Saint-Paul de Mausole, Van Gogh produced 150 paintings and over 100 drawings. Many paintings he completed here, like Starry Night, are considered his magnum opus. And while his stay at the asylum was mixed with light and dark moments, there is no doubt that his art continued to flourish here in Provence. So, set foot in the footsteps of this iconic artist, embrace the beauty and darkness that shaped him, and immerse yourself in his enchanting landscapes here in Saint-Remy.

Table Of Contents

1. About Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Van Gogh Walking Tour
2. The Life of Vincent Van Gogh
3. Start Your Walking Tour: Place Jules Pelissier
4. Walking the Van Gogh Art Route
5. Van Gogh's Cypress Trees
6. Van Gogh's Olive Grove
7. Saint-Paul de Mausole, Van Gogh's Asylum
8. Exploring the Gardens
9. The Cloisters
10. Outer Courtyard
11. Van Gogh's Bedroom
12. The Starry Night
13. Van Gogh's Diagnosis
14. The Death of Vincent Van Gogh
15. A Meadow in the Mountains
16. Les Antiques

About Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Van Gogh Walking Tour

This guided walking tour will lead you from the centre of Saint-Remy, along the Route de Van Gogh, and through the Monastery Saint-Paul de Mausole. After exploring the asylum, we will make a short stop outside the Roman ruins, ‘Les Antiques,’ that lie on the outskirts of Saint-Remy. Inside the asylum and the surrounding countryside, we will discover the places that shaped his creativity and immerse ourselves in the beauty that captivated him. Leave yourself at least a half-day to explore the city, take things at your own pace and dive into hidden corners you discover for yourself. If you want to make a whole day out, consider visiting the Roman city of Glanum and treat yourself to a wonderful dinner in town.

History of Saint Remy

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is located in the Alpilles region. The name “Alpilles” is derived from the Latin word “alpilulae,” meaning “small Alps,” due to its resemblance to the larger Alps mountain range.

Despite being in the middle of France, the area has some of Europe’s most well-preserved Roman ruins. During the 2nd century BC, the Romans established a settlement near Saint-Rémy, known as Glanum. This important Roman city flourished for centuries and boasted some of the most impressive architecture, including huge temples, a large forum, a theatre, and lavish houses. 

Following the decline of the Roman Empire, Saint-Rémy entered a period of relative obscurity. The town underwent a series of transformations and changed hands multiple times between feudal lords. In the 9th century, a Benedictine monastery was established in the town, and its influence grew over time.

Over the years, the town became a center of artistic activity, attracting writers, painters, and great thinkers. In the 16th century, French astrologer and physician Nostradamus wrote his book “Les Prophéties,” which contains cryptic prophecies about future events. Nostradamus was born in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in 1503 and spent time studying medicine and astrology in the region. But no one person left a more indelible mark on the city than Vincent Van Gogh.

The Life of Vincent Van Gogh

Vincent van Gogh was born on March 30, 1853, in Groot-Zundert, Netherlands. Van Gogh was born into a deeply religious family. His father, Theodorus van Gogh, was a Protestant minister. But it was on his mother’s side where the artistic part of his mind came was born. His mother, Anna Carbentus, came from a family of bookbinders and art dealers. At the age of 16, Vincent began working for his uncle’s art dealership, which sparked his interest in art and the world of visual expression. But despite this, his early career path remained focused on the ministry. He attended a theology school in Amsterdam in 1877, intending to become a pastor like his father and grandfather.

Vincent’s Religious Upbringing

However, Vincent’s time as a pastor was short-lived and ultimately unsuccessful. His deeply empathetic and passionate nature often clashed with church practice’s more rigid and formal aspects. He also faced personal challenges and mental health issues, leading to his dismissal as a pastor after a brief stint in a rural congregation in Belgium. When he returned home, his father wanted to send Vincent to a lunatic asylum.

Vincent’s Mental Health Struggles Begin

Throughout his life, Van Gogh faced numerous mental health challenges that affected his ability to maintain stability and find contentment. He experienced periods of intense anxiety, depression, and emotional turmoil. These mental health struggles manifested in episodes of erratic behaviour and led to strained relationships with family, friends, and even fellow artists. But one relationship remained stronger than all the others, and this was with his brother Theo. Theo has seen a few of Vincent’s charcoal drawings he has been making while in Belgium. They were studies of the people and scenes around him. Theo immediately saw what others did not, and it was at his insistence and aid that Vincent was spared the madhouse and instead began his study and pursuit of a career in the arts.

Vincent & Theo

Theo van Gogh played a crucial role in Vincent’s personal and professional life. He was six years younger than Vincent, and while Vincent worked as a preacher, Theo embarked on a career as an art dealer. With an eye for talented artists, Theo was able to recognize Vincent’s talent immediately. He began supporting Vincent both emotionally and financially. And would continue to do so until the end of his life. Theo believed in Vincent’s artistic potential when few others did. And if it were not for Theo’s financial assistance and encouragement throughout his career, there is no doubt in my mind that Vincent would never have become one of the most famous artists of the 19th and 20th centuries.

The written correspondence between Vincent and Theo forms a rich tapestry of their relationship. They exchanged hundreds of letters, offering insights into their thoughts, struggles, and artistic aspirations. The letters reveal Vincent’s emotional vulnerability, challenges, and unwavering commitment to art. Theo, in turn, provided continuous emotional support, advice, and feedback on Vincent’s work. They were more than brothers, more than family, they were truly each other’s soulmates.

Van Gogh in Provence

In 1888, Van Gogh moved to Arles in southern France to seek inspiration and refuge. Here, he produced some of his most iconic works, including The Sunflowers and Café Terrace at Night. However, his time in Arles was also marked by increased mental instability, leading to conflicts with others, including his friend and fellow artist Paul Gauguin. Following a heated argument with Gauguin, Van Gogh infamously severed a portion of his earlobe. He was sent to the local hospital after being found in a pool of blood inside his apartment.

Even after returning to his home from the hospital, Vincent confided in his brother that he was still suffering from hallucinations and delusions of poisoning. On the insistence of both his brothers and physician Félix Rey, Vincent voluntarily admitted himself to the asylum of Saint-Paul de Mausole in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in May 1889.

Start Your Walking Tour: Place Jules Pelissier

We now begin our walk. In the centre of Saint-Remy, Vincent would have arrived to make his way to Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum. Standing in the Place Jules Pelissier, the town’s central square, take a moment to soak in the atmosphere. Look around and admire the historic buildings surrounding you. On the west side of the square, look up and see the towering spire of the Saint-Martin Collegiate Church. This spire was one of the few things Van Gogh could see from his bedroom in the asylum. And it is one of the most iconic elements of his renowned painting, The Starry Night.

One can imagine how lonely Van Gogh must have felt. He would have been so close to the centre of town, and yet he was confined to the grounds of an asylum. On any day of the week, this square is filled with people having lively conversations outside on the terraces. He probably could have heard the noise from the square travel across the fields into the window sill where he painted. Van Gogh loved going out during his time in Arles. And he must have longed for those long nights outside the cafes. 

Walking the Van Gogh Art Route

As you turn south down Rue de la Commune, you are approaching the start of the Van Gogh Route. This is a self-guided walk towards the Monastery of Saint-Paul de Mausole. Along the way, there are 19 signs reproducing Van Gogh’s most emblematic paintings. A short quote from one of Van Gogh’s letters accompanies each image. And while I think trying to contextualize these paintings is so important, much remains to be discovered and discussed. So I hope this article is a great accompaniment. The walk is marked by these small golden emblems on the ground that bare Van Gogh’s iconic signature.

Place Mireille

Standing at the apex of the Place Mireille, you can look down the roads to put yourself at the very spot where Van Gogh painted a scene entitled The Road Menders. In this artwork, Van Gogh captures several figures engaged in manual labour, working along this very road. A road which now bears his name in his honour.

The Road Menders

In his paintings, Van Gogh often depicted scenes of everyday life and the toils of the working class. In The Road Mender, he highlights the dignity and significance of ordinary people and their contributions to society. Compared to Van Gogh’s paintings in Arles, you can see how the colours in this palette are much more muted. Although the brushwork still conveys that classical Van Gogh-ian sense of energy and emotion, the piece has a tone of sadness. Like he is looking into the lives of these everyday Provencal men and women but cannot connect with them, simply paint them from afar.

Canal des Alpines

Continuing along, we can see a large cypress tree on the right side of the road as we cross the Canal Des Alpines. This is just one of many Cypress trees found all over Saint-Remy, which deeply inspired Van Gogh’s oeuvre. 

Van Gogh’s Cypress Trees

Cypress trees hold significant importance and symbolism in the works of Vincent van Gogh. And he painted an entire series dedicated to them during his stay in Saint-Remy. Cypress trees have long been associated with notions of immortality and eternity. The tall and slender form of the cypress tree, reaching upward into the sky, is reminiscent of a natural cathedral spire. Van Gogh often used the cypress tree to symbolize the divine and the connection between the earthly and the spiritual realms. As if the tree, just like himself, were trying to reach out, away from the pains of this mortal realm, into eternal and transcendental peace.

While at the asylum of Saint-Paul de Mausole, he could look out his window every day to gaze upon the cypress trees spread out across the Provencal countryside. When he was allowed to leave the ground and paint en-plein air, these were some of the closest fields where he could come to study and sketch the cypress trees. So this very tree might have been one of the many that Van Gogh painted.

Almond Blossoms

Just past the canal crossing, on the right side of the road, we can see far-reaching fields of almond trees. These iconic trees were etched into the history book in Vicent van Gogh’s painting Almond Blossoms. Van Gogh painted Almond Blossoms as a gift for his brother Theo upon the arrival of his firstborn son. Although Vincent was no doubt worried about how the little child would impact Theo’s ability to support Vincent financially, the love he had for his brother was immense. And therefore, for his new nephew as well.

“I started right away to make a picture for him, to hang in their bedroom, branches of white almond blossom against a blue sky.”

Vincent

He wanted to create a painting that was intended to commemorate the joy and hope associated with the arrival of a new life into the family. Almond blossoms begin to bud at the beginning of Spring. And therefore, they have long been associated with hope and rebirth. Van Gogh’s use of this floral motif suggests a sense of renewal and new beginnings. Perhaps a hope for a renewal in himself as well as for the new baby for Theo.

The delicate blossoms against the vibrant blue sky can be seen as a reflection of Van Gogh’s longing for peace, serenity, and emotional harmony. The upward-reaching branches and the ethereal quality of the blossoms evoke a sense of spirituality. As if these blooms are not placed within our mortal realm but instead up in the heavens.

Influence of Japanese Art

Van Gogh was greatly influenced by Japanese art, particularly ukiyo-e prints. He admired Japanese woodblock prints’ stylized and decorative qualities. Their flattened perspective and stark, bold outlines. In Almond Blossom, Van Gogh employed bold, dark outlines around the blossoms and branches, reminiscent of the black outlines found in Japanese woodblock prints. The bright blue sky against the delicate white blossoms also creates a striking visual effect.

The Colors of Provence

Continuing along Avenue Vincent Van Gogh, take a moment to look around you as you walk, to soak up all the colours of Provence. Van Gogh’s artistic style underwent a significant transformation during his time in Provence and in Saint-Remy. The vivid landscapes and unique light of the area greatly influenced him. As you walk, see what you can find that is reminiscent of Van Gogh’s Provencal colour palette, characterized by bold, deep, and intense colours. You might spot vibrantly painted window shutters and rainbows of flowers blooming along the road. The radiant yellows of the sunflowers and wheat fields dominated the Provençal countryside. And, of course, the bright blue skies above you.

Van Gogh’s Olive Grove

Turn left down Avenue Dr. Edgar Leroy towards Saint-Paul de Mausole. Although this route takes us away from the main road, this detour provides beautiful views across the Alpilles Valley. Further away from houses, you can see far out across the landscape of Provence. 

Along the road, we pass a series of olive groves, which were the subject of dozens of variations painted by Van Gogh. I think Olive Trees are one of his best series. Exemplified in these paintings is his emblematic expressive brushwork. The textural strokes capture the energy and movement of the foliage and the terrain. As if we can feel the breeze through the trees in the painting itself. But walking along this road, try to close your eyes and feel for yourself that movement in the wind that Van Gogh captures, like magic in a bottle.

Olive trees are also frequently associated with the idea of peace. In Roman times, athletes and emperors were awarded olive wreaths as a symbol of peace and honour. And in Christian art, the dove carrying an olive branch is often depicted as a symbol of peace, representing the reconciliation between God and humanity after the Great Flood. Van Gogh’s obsession with these trees was not just because they were what was available for him to paint. But due to his deep desire for tranquillity in his mind.

Saint-Paul de Mausole, Van Gogh’s Asylum

A short walk from the Avenue Dr. Edgar Leroy, make the first right to walk along the thick outer stone walls of the Saint-Paul de Mausole. Take note of how high and imposing these walls are. Ensuring all those inside cannot get out or even see the countryside around them. And although Vincent was given special permission to occasionally venture outside these walls, for the most part, he spent the last months of his life only within the confines of the asylum.

Hours and Admission

Hours: Open seven days a week, from 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. in the summer, with earlier closings in the winter. Admission: Adults 7€ | Student, Teens (12-16) and Seniors 5€ | Children under 12 are free

History of Saint-Paul de Mausole

In the 11th century, a Romanesque monastery was built on this site. The name “Mausole” is derived from the Latin word “mausoleum.” It was given this name as its location was a mere few meters from the ancient Roman mausoleum, just outside the ruins of Glanum. The monastery flourished for several centuries, serving as a religious center for monks and pilgrims.

In the 19th century, the monastery underwent a significant transformation. In 1815, the religious order left, and the building was repurposed as a psychiatric institution. It became an asylum known as the “Asile de Saint-Paul,” catering to individuals with severe mental health conditions. The tranquil surroundings and therapeutic environment sought to offer patients a place of refuge and treatment. But treatment for mental health conditions in the 19th century left much to be desired. And for many, treatments were little more than a restrictive diet and twice daily baths.

Van Gogh in Saint-Paul de Mausole

Although Vincent voluntarily admitted himself into the hospital, his stay there relied heavily on his brother Theo’s assistance. Vincent received not one but two private rooms. One of which Vincent could use as his studio. A luxury no other patients were given.

When he first arrived, he was hopeful and spoke positively about his experience. “I feel happier here with my work than I could be outside. By staying here a long time, I shall have learned regular habits, and in the long run, the result will be more order in my life.” Much of this early progress was made simply due to the fact that the doctors here at Saint-Remy forced Van Gogh to stop many of his harmful vices. Van Gogh was not only an alcoholic, but his eating habits and overconsumption of coffee all negatively impacted his mental health conditions.

Exploring the Gardens

When Vincent was first admitted, he couldn’t leave the ground until the doctors and nurses deemed him fit enough to do so. During these first few months, Van Gogh painted only what he found within the gardens surrounding the Monastery. He looked closely at everything around him, finding peace in those quiet little moments and vignettes that proliferated the gardens.

Entering through the front gates, you step into the asylum’s tranquil gardens, left almost exactly as they would have been when Van Gogh stayed here. Lining the outer walls of the asylum are beautiful garden beds. Vines crawl up the stone walls to disguise their prison-like intentions. Van Gogh vividly describes the gardens for us in a letter to Theo;

A view of the garden of the asylum where I am, on the right a gray terrace, a section the house, some rosebushes that have lost their flowers; on the left, the earth of the garden – red ochre – earth burnt by the sun, covered in fallen pine twigs. This edge of the garden is planted with large pines with red ochre trunks and branches, with green foliage saddened by a mixture of black. These tall trees stand out against an evening sky streaked with violet against a yellow background. High up, the yellow turns to pink, turns to green. Under the trees, empty stone benches, dark box. The sky is reflected yellow in a puddle after the rain.

Vincent Van Gogh

Irises

The very first painting that Van Gogh endeavoured to paint was that of the garden’s irises. Van Gogh captures these flowers in different stages of their blooms. Some almost appear to be falling to the ground under the weight of their petals. This painting was one of Van Gogh’s studies, meaning he painted it directly from life without sketching it first. There was some calm he found in these intricate studies. Like he was immersing himself into the world of the painting, leaving his darkened world behind him.

Lilacs

A stark contrast to his almost realistic portrayal of the Irises is Van Gogh’s painting of the Lilacs. You can even see the purple irises in the background of the painting, but their forms are almost abstract. Nothing more than a few swashes of painting. Through Lilacs, we can see Van Gogh’s absolute dynamism in his vivid energy and dramatic expression he communicates to us through his brushstrokes. He pushes the boundaries of impressionism and creates his own post-impressionist style.

When you receive the canvases that I have done in the garden, you will see that I am not too melancholy here.

Vincent Van Gogh

Corner of Saint-Paul Hospital

While Van Gogh was trying to let give his brother hope that his stay here at the asylum was helping him rid himself of the sadness he felt in Arles, there was no doubt that this place still felt like a prison. He felt trapped inside, literally and figuratively both inside the walls of the asylum and inside the prison of his troubled mind.

“You’ll understand that this combination of red ochre, of green saddened with grey, of black lines that define the outlines, this gives rise a little to the feeling of anxiety from which some of my companions in misfortune often suffer, and which is called ‘seeing red’.”

Vincent Van Gogh

Romanesque Chapel

The entrance to the old Romanesque stone chapel is beside the entrance to the asylum. The chapel is as silent as silence can be. The huge stone arches frame the cold stone walls in the darkness. The only light being emitted from the stained glass windows and the entry door. Modern-day lighting has been added to the ceiling to give the visitor a better view of the 11th-century architecture. Van Gogh would have been encouraged, perhaps even forced, to come here for prayer, as this was still thought to be a method of curing their mental illnesses. 

But for Vincent, his relationship with religion was complex. And it continued to evolve throughout his life. Although he was raised in a religious family, his failure to become a pastor and his disillusionment with the church as an institution deeply wounded him. While Van Gogh distanced himself from traditional religious institutions, he continued to engage with religious themes in his art. 

The Pietà

But during Vincent’s time at the asylum, especially when he could not even go outside after his episodes, he found solace and inspiration in biblical stories. And he developed a more personal and reflective view of his spirituality. During moments of despair and loneliness, he believed his art was a spiritual expression and a means to connect with a higher power. When he could not make art of his own, he began making copies of some famous paintings, most of which were religious. He told his brother;

“I started making them inadvertently and now find that I can learn from them and that they give me a kind of comfort. My brush then moves through my fingers like a bow over the strings of a violin – completely for my pleasure.”

Van Gogh made the Pietà from a lithograph of Delacroix’s painting. While the composition of the subject remains the same, Van Gogh’s brought his stylistic approach to the brushwork. The Pietà depicts the Virgin Mary cradling the dead body of Jesus Christ after his crucifixion. The word “Pietà” comes from the Italian word for “pity” or “compassion,” and the theme is one of deep sorrow and mourning. It is impossible not to see the connection for Van Gogh in this work of art. A man desperate for compassion, for understanding, and to be held by a woman. Most of the women in Van Gogh’s were sources of pain and rejection. And yet here we see a woman who is the epitome of acceptance.

Vestibule in the Asylum

Stepping inside the main building, take a minute to walk inside and turn back towards the entry door. This view was captured almost precisely as we see it today by Van Gogh during his stay. Van Gogh hated the living condition here. He described the experience to his brother;

“There is someone here who has been shouting and talking like me all the time for a fortnight. He thinks he hears voices and words in the echoes of the corridors, probably because the auditory nerve is diseased and over-sensitive, and in my case, it was both sight and hearing at the same time, which is usual at the onset of epilepsy, according to what Dr. Félix Rey said one day.”

Especially when compared to the actual view of the hallways, one can really appreciate how his painting displays the profound solitude he felt there. The walls seem to fold in upon themselves. Not a single person can be seen, yet tension is in the air as if we can hear that invisible man screaming from afar.

The Cloisters

Proceed inside the main building, towards the interior cloisters. Cloisters are covered walkways, usually surrounding a courtyard or garden. Cloisters are a distinctive architecture in monasteries built in the 11th century. Today, you can still wander around the cloisters to experience the tranquil space Van Gogh himself would have experienced during his daily walks.

From inside the cloisters, look up at the second-floor windows. It was from here that Van Gogh would have looked down on the gardens on days when he was too ill to go outside.

Outer Courtyard

Before heading upstairs to Van Gogh’s bedroom, walk through the gift shop towards the outer courtyard. Rows and rows of lavender bloom here in the summer and the fields are packed with poppies, irises and roses in the spring.

View of the Asylum and Chapel of Saint-Rémy

As indicated by several letters to Theo, Van Gogh spent the autumn painting in the courtyard. One of the most important paintings he made here was View of the Asylum and Chapel of Saint-Rémy. It is the only painting Vincent made of the entirety of the asylum, not just its gardens or interior walls.

Unlike some paintings he painted indoors from sketches he made outside, this one was painting en-plein air. Standing right here in the lush green space. The colour palette of this painting is very different than his vibrant paintings. The colours are muted, with hues of green infiltrating the rest o of the colours. This was due to the fact that Van Gogh was attempting to capture the changing light outside in the autumn. It was something he was obsessed with—the ability to freeze time and capture a moment in paint.

Van Gogh’s Bedroom

Walking upstairs, we step onto the second floor. It was here where the patient’s bedrooms were held. Inside a room facing out onto the back courtyard, we find the very room where Van Gogh once resided. The room has been meticulously restored to resemble how it appeared during Van Gogh’s stay. The only difference was that Van Gogh was not allowed to paint in the bedroom. Instead, he would have had to go to his studio to do any painting. But the studio and bedroom set up have been combined in this recreation.

Observe the simple furniture and the worn floor. But most important, take your time to gaze out the east-facing window. The bars of which were a prison cell for Van Gogh. He would have been inspired to sketch the painting The Starry Night from this window.

This morning, I saw the countryside from my window a long time before sunrise with nothing but the morning star, which looked very big.

Vincent Van Gogh

The Starry Night

The Starry Night depicts a small village with houses and a church steeple nestled beneath a swirling sky filled with luminous stars. Van Gogh painted this same scene numerous times. But this is the only version of the painting set at night. While the paintings during the day capture the scene accurately, the version at night takes on a more dramatic and expressive tone. Van Gogh takes more risks, changing the scenery to fit his vision. Although historians can date the painting and know that the moon was a waxing gibbous moon on this night, Vincent paints it as a crescent moon.

Although the idea of changing elements of a landscape to suit the intention of the painting better seems like an obvious choice, it was one Van Gogh struggled with. While living with Gaugin, Gaughin frequently encouraged Vincent to delve more into abstraction. But Van Gogh was so focused on painting precisely what he saw. And yet here we see him break away from reality and reach for the stars…literally.

The swirling sky, filled with vibrant stars, seems to move before your eyes. The vivid colours contrast against the night sky. The intense movement and whirling patterns convey a sense of chaos, yet they also evoke a feeling of transcendent beauty and spiritual depth. The stars, in particular, have been interpreted as symbols of hope. They are aspirations beyond the earthly realm. And those iconic cypress trees serve as a bridge from reality towards the celestial domains. It is as if Vincent is trying to paint his way out of his dark existence.

Van Gogh’s Diagnosis

While in Saint-Rémy, Van Gogh’s mental health continued to fluctuate. He experienced both periods of intense creativity and moments of utter despair. During his stay, Van Gogh suffered four serious “attacks” as they were described by the doctors. These were painful and distressing for Van Gogh and his brother Theo. The attack was followed by a period of deep depression in which Van Gogh didn’t paint at all. Then, after some time, Vincent’s creativity and drive would return, and he would resume paintings.

So what did Van Gogh suffer from? This question has enraptured the minds of psychiatrists from around the world for ages. And the truth is that we will never know without these doctors being able to speak directly to the man himself. But many surmise that Van Gogh suffered from manic-depressive psychosis, worsened by his epileptic fits. Epilepsy was prevalent on his mother’s side, and as it is a hereditary disease, this connection makes sense. These attacks were brought on by triggering events in Van Gogh’s life. 

At Eternity’s Gate

One of the most intensive paintings done in Saint Remy was his painting entitled At Eternity’s Gate. Vincent had made this sketch of a pensioner and war veteran in 1882, and while recovering from one of his intensive attacks, he began painting this sorrowful scene. And yet, even in the darkest moments, we have the reference to eternity. As if Van Gogh himself is still clinging to his faith to see himself through this period of darkness.

Portrait of a patient

Though here there are some patients very seriously ill, the fear and horror of madness that I used to have has already lessened a great deal. And though here you continually hear terrible cries and howls like beasts in a menagerie, in spite of that, people get to know each other very well and help each other when their attacks come on.

Vincent Van Gogh

Prisoners’ Round (after Gustave Doré)

Another painting that seems to evoke the internal nature of Van Gogh’s mind during his time in Saint-Remy was Prisoners’ Round. This painting is another copy he made after a print by Gustave Doré. The scene depicts a group of prisoners walking around in a circle in the exercise yard at Newgate Prison. The scene is dark, damp and almost claustrophobic. The walls seem to cave in upon the prisoners below.

The man in the group’s centre is placed at the forefront of the image; his head turned slightly towards us, the viewer. This man is also the only one now wearing a cap on his head, showing off his strawberry blonde hair, the same as Vincent himself. Vincent is placing himself in a literal prison, as no doubt this is how he felt inside the asylum and the torment of his mind. And yet even in the darkest recesses of the world, there is hope. Small and delicate but present. And we can see this by looking closely at the two white butterflies soaring high above the prisoners below. As if they are on their way out, escaping this dark world and flying toward the sun.

The Funeral of Van Gogh

When Van Gogh died, only two months after leaving the asylum, this was one of the paintings that Theo chose to be placed next to his coffin. Painter Émile Bernard came to Vincent’s funeral. When he saw this painting, he wrote,

Convicts walking in a circle surrounded by high prison walls, a canvas inspired by Doré of a terrifying ferocity and which is also symbolic of his end. Wasn’t life like that for him, a high prison like this with such high walls – so high? And these people walking endlessly round this pit, weren’t they the poor artists, the poor damned souls walking past under the whip of Destiny?

Émile Bernard

Road with Cypress and Star 

I want to end this tour, in the treatment room, just opposite Van Gogh’s bedroom. Here, Vincent would take his twice-daily baths, the only “treatment” the doctor gave him to cure his illness. A therapy that no doubt made little to no difference. Instead, he was left abandoned by the very people, the doctors and nurses, who he so desperately had hoped would cure him of his disease. And there must have been no worse feeling than the hopelessness that that abandonment would have caused. More than anything, I think Vincent was very lonely and needed companionship. His search for romantic love in his life has been utterly heartbreaking. And the real true love of his life had always been his brother. To be closer to him, Vincent decided to check himself out of the hospital and move to the small town of Auvers-sur-Oise near Paris (where Theo lived.) 

The Obelisk of Death

Vincent’s last painting while in Saint-Remy is this scene entitled Road with Cypress and Star. This vertical landscape depicts a winding road centred by a deep, dark cypress tree. Many call this an “obelisk of death,” as if Van Gogh knew he was to die.

Behind the tree is a vast expanse of yellow wheat fields and blue mountains. The night sky dominates the upper part of the canvas, with a bright yellow star shining brilliantly above the cypress tree on the left and a vibrating crescent moon to the right. The sky is painted in swirling, turbulent patterns. But it is the bottom of the painting that we will focus upon. In the sea of churning grass are a pair of travellers, walking almost arm in arm. The two men are walking towards the tremendous black cypress tree. Their heads held high, unafraid, looking up towards the beautiful eternal sky above them. Beauty surrounds them in the face of great darkness.

The Death of Vincent Van Gogh

When Van Gogh arrived in Auvers-sur-Oise, he was placed under the care of Dr. Paul Gachet. Despite receiving some medical attention, his mental health continued to decline. And on July 27, 1890, at the age of 37, Van Gogh tragically took his own life by shooting himself in the chest. He passed away two days later, with his brother Theo by his side. 

Devastated at the loss of his brother and suffering from syphilis, Theo died only a year later. They were buried together, side by side, in the town cemetery of Auvers-sur-Oise. Ivy was planted on top of their graves. And today, the vines have grown together, clutching each other, forming one large mass. Emblematic of the connection these two brothers had for one and one in their lifetime. And now for eternity.

Leaving the Asylum

We now take our time to leave the Saint-Paul Asylum, walking back through the gardens and out onto VC des Carrieres road. As you walk back through the gardens, we walk the same path that Vincent would have taken upon his departure. One of Vincent’s last letters to Theo from Saint-Remy spoke enthusiastically of his health and creative endeavours.

At the moment the improvement is continuing, the whole horrible crisis has disappeared like a thunderstorm, and I’m working here with calm, unremitting ardour to give a last stroke of the brush. I’m working on a canvas of roses on bright green background and two canvases of large bouquets of violet Irises, one lot against a pink background in which the effect is harmonious and soft through the combination of greens, pinks, violets. On the contrary, the other violet bouquet (ranging up to pure carmine and Prussian blue) standing out against a striking lemon yellow background with other yellow tones in the vase and the base on which it rests is an effect of terribly disparate complementaries that reinforce each other by their opposition.

Vincent Van Gogh

A Meadow in the Mountains

Exiting through the main gates of the asylum, we turn to the left to walk down the small path that leads into the Parc D’Amour. This beautiful park is where Vincent Van Gogh would come to paint the mountains. In his painting, A Meadow in the Mountains: Le Mas de Saint-Paul, we can see a vast meadow surrounded by rolling hills and mountains in the background. The same mountains we can see spread out in front of our eyes.

The hills in this background play a significant role in this painting. They represent a sense of permanence, stability, and grandeur. Something that we know Vincent was profoundly searching for in his life. A state of tranquillity, enduring, just like nature itself. Their pale blue colour contrasts with the dynamic nature of the vibrant yellow and green meadow below. Walking along this path, you can take in the calm surrounding this valley. The sound of the wind rushing through the tall grass is the only sound that casts itself down on the ground in the sun-soaked afternoon.

Les Antiques

Walking through the park, towards the west side where the D5 roadway now passes, we can hope across the road to see the ruins of Glanum. Just outside a car park stands the great Antiques of ancient Rome. “Les Antiques” refers to these two Roman monuments that once stood on the outskirts of Glanum. The grandest of the two structures is the Triumphal Arch of Glanum. It was erected in the 1st century BCE to commemorate the military victories of the Roman Empire. This arch would have served as the entrance gate to Glanum. The arch is adorned with intricate carvings, including images of military generals and their prisoners. All across the arch are beautiful carvings of the Provencal harvest. We can see grapes, olives, stone fruits and even chestnuts. These agricultural symbols were a means for Rome to display the wealth of their land to any visitors. 

Mausoleum of the Julii

The tallest of the two structures is the Mausoleum of the Julii. The name of the 11th-century abbey, Monastery of Saint-Paul de Mausole, refers to this very Mausole or Mausoleum. When the Benedictine abbey was built in the 11th century, this site was still as important to the people of Provence as it is today. Although Vincent never painted these Antiquities, he would have no doubt visited these sites frequently as they were so close to the abbey. The Mausoleum of the Julii, also known as the “Tomb of the Julii,” dates back to the 1st century BCE. It was built to house the tombs of the mother and father of the three Julii brothers.

The father was a military general, and Julii was one of the most distinguished families in Rome. Carved into the tombs are a series of acanthus leaves, representing eternal rebirth to the ancient Romans. As a man obsessed with eternity, one can imagine how this structure would have greatly captured the imagination of the great artist. Perhaps inspiring Van Gogh to continue his search for the hereafter in the symbolism he painted into his masterpieces.

I hope you have enjoyed this extraordinary journey into the tumultuous yet brilliant artistic world of Vincent van Gogh. As you wander through the charming streets that once captivated the tormented artist, you can’t help but feel a sense of reverence for his resilience and creativity amidst personal struggles. I hope that you come away from Saint-Remy with a deeper understanding of this masterful painter, and maybe seeing this magnificent part of Provence will ignite your own artistic journey!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in the Footsteps of Van Gogh first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. The Lavender Route Regions
2. When to see the Lavender Route in Provence
   • Luberon Valley
   • Valensole Plateau
   • Pays de Sault
3. The History of Lavender in Provence
4. Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route
   • Field Etiquette
   • What to Wear & What to Bring
   • Renting a Car
     • Rules of the Road
   • Parking
   • Photography Tips
   • Going By Guided Tour
5. Provencal Lavender Varieties 

The Lavender Route Regions

Three different regions around Provence are known for their lavender-producing fields. These are the Valensole Plateau, Pays de Sault and the Luberon Valley. I always choose one area to make a day out to discover the magic of the magnificent lavender fields in Provence. Focusing on one specific region allows you to explore it to the fullest. Discover hidden corners and stop to relax and soak in the scenery.

When to see the Lavender Route in Provence

The exact timing of the lavender bloom can vary slightly from year to year. Depending on weather conditions and other factors. It is always a good idea to check with local sources, such as local lavender farms or tourist information centers in the area, for the most up-to-date information on the lavender bloom.

Luberon Valley

The Lavender in the Luberon Valley is the first to bloom from June to early July. The exact timing of the lavender bloom can vary slightly from year to year, depending on weather conditions and other factors. It is always a good idea to check with local sources, such as local lavender farms or tourist information centers in the area, for the most up-to-date information on the lavender bloom in the Luberon Valley.

Valensole Plateau

Because the Valensole Plateau is about 500 m above sea level, the lavender in this region typically blooms from mid-June to mid-July. However, it’s important to note that exact blooming times can vary slightly depending on weather conditions throughout the year. In 2023 there was a larger amount of rainfall in the area, delaying the blooms.

Pays de Sault

The Lavender in the Pays de Sault is the last to bloom during the summer lavender season. This is due to its high elevation. Generally, you can expect the lavender to begin to bloom in late July into August. But thanks to the Sault Lavender Festival, which takes place on August 15th, the stalks of lavender are never cut down before this date. A big part of the festival is the harvest competition. Locals compete against each other to collect the lavender using the original method of harvesting, which employs a sickle to cut down the stalks.

The History of Lavender in Provence

“Lavender” comes from the Latin “lavare,” meaning washing. Since ancient Antiquity, the Romans knew how powerful the lavender plant was. They used it for its medicinal properties and aromatic qualities, and especially for washing. But Lavender is not native to Provence. It was brought to the countryside by the Romans. The Romans knew that Provence’s dry, sunny climate and well-drained soils would be ideal for lavender growth. In the Middle Ages, lavender cultivation in Provence was primarily undertaken by monastic communities. Monks recognized the value of lavender for its therapeutic uses and began growing it in monastery gardens.

Over time, the cultivation of lavender expanded beyond monasteries. Farmers and locals started cultivating lavender on a larger scale. In the 19th century, the demand for lavender products, such as essential oil, perfume, and soaps, increased domestically and internationally. And lavender became one of the most important agricultural exports for the region. Distillation techniques improved, allowing for efficient processing of lavender crops. Today, lavender fields in Provence are an iconic symbol of the region, attracting tourists from all over the world.

Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route

Field Etiquette

Before entering lavender fields, remember to respect the farmers’ hard work and follow any posted guidelines. If there are any roped-off areas, avoid entering. They are there for a reason. But with so many different fields to visit, you will always find somewhere you can walk right into the fields to get those sprawling views. Remember to avoid stepping on the plants at all costs. This is how these farmers make a living, and you would hate to be responsible for damaging their crops.

Always be sure to walk only down the rows of lavender and not over them. And never pick the flowers. There are so many places around Provence to buy very inexpensive stalks of lavender; there is no need to pick them yourself in case you damage the plant by doing so. Plus, stalks of lavender must be dried to be preserved, so best to buy them after they have been left to dry.

What to Wear & What to Bring

During the summer, when the lavender blooms in Provence, it can be impossibly hot. So be sure to wear plenty of sunscreens and always bring a large, wide-brimmed hat to ensure you aren’t directly exposed to the sun. Especially in the fields, there is no shade to escape under, so you will always be in direct sunlight. As you walk around in the lavender fields, wear some sensible shoes. Sneakers or comfortable sandals are the best options for footwear.

Bring a nice, thick picnic blanket with you if you want to have a little picnic along the way. Most fields don’t have super soft ground, so having a good, thick base to sit on is a great idea to ensure you’re comfortable. Also, bring everything you’ll need for the picnic, from food and drinks to cutlery and napkins. And always make sure to leave your picnic spot exactly how you found it and bring all your garbage home with you. Be sure you bring plenty of water, more than you’ll think you need, for long days out in the sun.

Renting a Car

To make the most of this photographic region of Provence, you’ll want to rent a car to get around. It’s advisable to book your rental car in advance, especially during peak travel seasons. When picking a rental car for your travels in Provence, I always air on the smaller side. Smaller cars are ideal for navigating narrow village streets. And some roads in Provence you might think are one lane only, but before you know it, you’ll discover they aren’t. And the smaller your car, the easier it is to scoot by. Just be sure to pack lightly to ensure you can fit all your luggage into the car.

Rules of the Road

Be sure to familiarize yourself with France’s road rules and driving customs. In France, you drive on the right side of the road. And remember that priority is given to vehicles coming from the right at intersections without traffic lights or signs. The roads in Provence have very strict speed limits. And there are hidden speed cameras even in small villages and dirty roads. And these speed cameras will fine you for going even 10km over the limit! These fines will be mailed to you back home, so there is so escaping them after your trip. So you should always keep an eye on these speed limits. Some cars come with a GPS system that will alert you to the change in speed limits. Or use Waze to help you get an alert when a speed camera is in effect.

Parking

Before stopping your car to get out and explore the fields, you’ll want to do so safely. You don’t want to stop your car in the middle of the road and block oncoming traffic. Trust me; there are many places to stop, so if you think you’re missing an opportunity, another will come any minute. Many lavender fields have come to expect tourists these days. And there will often be a patch of dirt where you can park your car, off to the side of the road, near the fields. Never ever park or drive your car right into the lavender plants field.

Lots of the lavender producers and shops have parking lots out front. You can explore the shops and then head back to see the fields beyond. When in villages, there are both free and paid parking options. Pay attention to parking signs to avoid any fines or penalties.

Photography Tips

You have to expect to see a lot of people during the summer months. But arriving early in the morning or right at sunset will ensure you get as much of the field to yourself as possible. And remember, if you just turn your camera this way or that, it’s easy enough to get a shot without other people in it. Be kind to those around you; everyone is there for the same reason.

Going By Guided Tour

While renting a car and going at your own pace is always my recommendation, if you don’t want to drive yourself and instead just want to relax and be led by a guide, you have plenty of options. These guided tours stop off at producers and fields and combine your day trip with a visit to a famous neighbouring village.

Provencal Lavender Varieties 

When it comes to lavender, there are over 30 different species. But the two most popular you’ll find in Provence are Fine Lavender and Lavandine. While they both belong to the Lavandula genus, there are distinct differences in the characteristics, aroma, and cultivation of each plant.

Fine lavender (or Lavandula angustifolia) typically grows in compact, bushy formations, reaching around two-three feet. It showcases slender, linear leaves with a gray-green hue. Its slender and elongated flowers form tight spikes at the top of the stems. The blossoms display a lovely lavender-purple colour. This flower offers a delicate, sweet, and floral fragrance. Its scent is often soothing, calming, and reminiscent of the quintessential lavender aroma.

Lavandine (or Lavandula x intermedia) is a much larger plant, often growing up to three-four feet tall. Its flowers are shorter and fuller than Fine Lavender, forming dense and rounded flower spikes. The colour of the blossoms can range from lavender-purple to bluish-purple. Lavandine exhibits a more intense fragrance compared to Fine Lavender. Its scent carries a sharper, medicinal note with hints of camphor (woody scent), making it suitable for various aromatherapy applications. Lavandine also typically blooms a bit later than Fine Lavender.

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of the Lavender Routes in Provence first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Three different regions around Provence are known for their lavender-producing fields. These are the Valensole Plateau, Pays de Sault and the Luberon Valley. I always choose one area to make a day out to discover the magic of the magnificent lavender fields in Provence. Focusing on one specific region allows you to explore it to the fullest. Discover hidden corners and stop to relax and soak in the scenery. So today, let’s dive (or drive) into the fields around the Pays de Sault.

Table Of Contents

1. Pays de Sault Lavender Route Map
2. About the Pays de Sault
3. The History of Lavender in Provence
4. When to see the Lavender Route in Provence
5. Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route
6. Provencal Lavender Varieties 
7. Sarraud Lavender Farm
8. Route de la Balate
9. Les Gorges de la Nesque
10. Monieux
11. Les Lavandes
12. La Bastide des Bourguets
13. Sault
14. Nougat André Boyer
15. La Ferme aux Lavandes
16. Le Chemin des Lavandes
17. Aurel
18. Le Plus Beau Champs de Lavande
19. Ferrassières Bories Lavender Fields
20. Saint Trinit
21. Bistrot de Pays

Pays de Sault Lavender Route Map

How Long Does this Route Take?

The Pays de Sault Lavender Route is a day-long self-guided road trip. It leads you north up through the mountains towards the upper peaks of Provence. We will stop at various areas where you can explore lavender fields and visit lavender producers and distilleries. As well as some of the most beautiful Provencal villages. While the actual driving time is only about two hours, there are so many stops along the way that you’ll want to give lots of your time to explore. Remember, the Provencal way of life is all about relaxing and relishing the pleasures of life. So this day trip isn’t about rushing around from place to place. But to explore those hidden corners of this magnificent part of the country.

About the Pays de Sault

The name Sault comes from the Latin word saltus. This word refers to a forest or mountain pasture filled with dales, ravines, and meadows. And you will definitely find this describes the Pays de Sault perfectly! A picturesque and almost mythical place. Like something out of a fairytale.

The Pays de Sault is found deep in the heart of the Pyrenees mountains. It is located at an altitude of 700-1,000 meters and as such, has a much more temperate climate during the summers. Throughout the year, the Pays de Sault is also sheltered from the forceful mistrals (strong northerly winds) that rush through the rest of Provence. These features make the landscape unique compared to other areas of Provence. The countryside is cut by deep gorges, and driving through it all allows you to gaze upon this varied and vast terrain.

The History of Lavender in Provence

“Lavender” comes from the Latin “lavare,” meaning washing. Since ancient Antiquity, the Romans knew how powerful the lavender plant was. They used it for its medicinal properties and aromatic qualities, and especially for washing. But Lavender is not native to Provence. It was brought to the countryside by the Romans. The Romans knew that Provence’s dry, sunny climate and well-drained soils would be ideal for lavender growth. In the Middle Ages, lavender cultivation in Provence was primarily undertaken by monastic communities. Monks recognized the value of lavender for its therapeutic uses and began growing it in monastery gardens.

Over time, the cultivation of lavender expanded beyond monasteries. Farmers and locals started cultivating lavender on a larger scale. In the 19th century, the demand for lavender products, such as essential oil, perfume, and soaps, increased domestically and internationally. And lavender became one of the most important agricultural exports for the region. Distillation techniques improved, allowing for efficient processing of lavender crops. Today, lavender fields in Provence are an iconic symbol of the region, attracting tourists from all over the world.

When to see the Lavender Route in Provence

The Lavender in the Pays de Sault is the last to bloom during the summer lavender season. This is due to its high elevation. Generally, you can expect the lavender to begin to bloom in late July into August. But thanks to the Sault Lavender Festival, which takes place on August 15th, the stalks of lavender are never cut down before this date. A big part of the festival is the harvest competition. Locals compete against each other to collect the lavender using the original method of harvesting, which employs a sickle to cut down the stalks.

The exact timing of the lavender bloom can vary slightly from year to year. Depending on weather conditions and other factors. It is always a good idea to check with local sources, such as local lavender farms or tourist information centers in the area, for the most up-to-date information on the lavender bloom in the Pays de Sault.

If you book your trip well in advance and the weather isn’t behaving, and you arrive too early to see the blooms in the Pays de Sault, you can always visit some of the fields in the lower part of Provence like in the Valensole Plateau or the Luberon Valley where the fields start to bloom in late June and July.

Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route

Field Etiquette

Before entering lavender fields, remember to respect the farmers’ hard work and follow any posted guidelines. If there are any roped-off areas, avoid entering. They are there for a reason. But with so many different fields to visit, you will always find somewhere you can walk right into the fields to get those sprawling views. Remember to avoid stepping on the plants at all costs. This is how these farmers make a living, and you would hate to be responsible for damaging their crops.

Always be sure to walk only down the rows of lavender and not over them. And never pick the flowers. There are so many places around Provence to buy very inexpensive stalks of lavender; there is no need to pick them yourself in case you damage the plant by doing so. Plus, stalks of lavender must be dried to be preserved, so best to buy them after they have been left to dry.

What to Wear & What to Bring

During the summer, when the lavender blooms in Provence, it can be impossibly hot. So be sure to wear plenty of sunscreens and always bring a large, wide-brimmed hat to ensure you aren’t directly exposed to the sun. Especially in the fields, there is no shade to escape under, so you will always be in direct sunlight. As you walk around in the lavender fields, wear some sensible shoes. Sneakers or comfortable sandals are the best options for footwear.

Bring a nice, thick picnic blanket with you if you want to have a little picnic along the way. Most fields don’t have super soft ground, so having a good, thick base to sit on is a great idea to ensure you’re comfortable. Also, bring everything you’ll need for the picnic, from food and drinks to cutlery and napkins. And always make sure to leave your picnic spot exactly how you found it and bring all your garbage home with you. Be sure you bring plenty of water, more than you’ll think you need, for long days out in the sun.

Renting a Car

To make the most of this photographic region of Provence, you’ll want to rent a car to get around. It’s advisable to book your rental car in advance, especially during peak travel seasons. When picking a rental car for your travels in Provence, I always air on the smaller side. Smaller cars are ideal for navigating narrow village streets. And some roads in Provence you might think are one lane only, but before you know it, you’ll discover they aren’t. And the smaller your car, the easier it is to scoot by. Just be sure to pack lightly to ensure you can fit all your luggage into the car.

Rules of the Road

Be sure to familiarize yourself with France’s road rules and driving customs. In France, you drive on the right side of the road. And remember that priority is given to vehicles coming from the right at intersections without traffic lights or signs. The roads in Provence have very strict speed limits. And there are hidden speed cameras even in small villages and dirty roads. And these speed cameras will fine you for going even 10km over the limit! These fines will be mailed to you back home, so there is so escaping them after your trip. So you should always keep an eye on these speed limits. Some cars come with a GPS system that will alert you to the change in speed limits. Or use Waze to help you get an alert when a speed camera is in effect.

Parking

Before stopping your car to get out and explore the fields, you’ll want to do so safely. You don’t want to stop your car in the middle of the road and block oncoming traffic. Trust me; there are many places to stop, so if you think you’re missing an opportunity, another will come any minute. Many lavender fields have come to expect tourists these days. And there will often be a patch of dirt where you can park your car, off to the side of the road, near the fields. Never ever park or drive your car right into the lavender plants field.

Lots of the lavender producers and shops have parking lots out front. You can explore the shops and then head back to see the fields beyond. When in villages, there are both free and paid parking options. Pay attention to parking signs to avoid any fines or penalties.

Photography Tips

You have to expect to see a lot of people during the summer months. But arriving early in the morning or right at sunset will ensure you get as much of the field to yourself as possible. And remember, if you just turn your camera this way or that, it’s easy enough to get a shot without other people in it. Be kind to those around you; everyone is there for the same reason.

Going By Guided Tour

While renting a car and going at your own pace is always my recommendation, if you don’t want to drive yourself and instead just want to relax and be led by a guide, you have plenty of options. These guided tours stop off at producers and fields and combine your day trip with a visit to a famous neighbouring village.

Provencal Lavender Varieties 

When it comes to lavender, there are over 30 different species. But the two most popular you’ll find in Provence are Fine Lavender and Lavandine. While they both belong to the Lavandula genus, there are distinct differences in the characteristics, aroma, and cultivation of each plant.

Fine lavender (or Lavandula angustifolia) typically grows in compact, bushy formations, reaching around two-three feet. It showcases slender, linear leaves with a gray-green hue. Its slender and elongated flowers form tight spikes at the top of the stems. The blossoms display a lovely lavender-purple colour. This flower offers a delicate, sweet, and floral fragrance. Its scent is often soothing, calming, and reminiscent of the quintessential lavender aroma.

Lavandine (or Lavandula x intermedia) is a much larger plant, often growing up to three-four feet tall. Its flowers are shorter and fuller than Fine Lavender, forming dense and rounded flower spikes. The colour of the blossoms can range from lavender-purple to bluish-purple. Lavandine exhibits a more intense fragrance compared to Fine Lavender. Its scent carries a sharper, medicinal note with hints of camphor (woody scent), making it suitable for various aromatherapy applications. Lavandine also typically blooms a bit later than Fine Lavender.

Sarraud Lavender Farm

We begin our adventure in the Pays to Sault at the edge of the Pyrenees at the Sarraud Lavender Farm. Visiting a lavender farm is an excellent opportunity to learn more about the history of lavender farming and how the flowers are harvested. You can also see how the oils gathered from the flowers and transformed into various cosmetic products.

The Sarraud family settled in the Pays de Sault in 1887 and began cultivating their fine lavender fields. Six generations later, they are still working in the same fields, albeit with a few new modern technqiues. But with much a lavender production, the old ways are still some of the best ways. In fact, their hand-tied dried lavender bouquets are still cut by hand in their fields.

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In addition to lavender cosmetics, the farm produces its own lavender honey. One of the most uniquely Provencal elements of French gastronomy. The honey is sweet but with a subtle floral note that heightens everything it is paired with! I always make sure to pick up a few bottles when I’m in Provence. And there is no better place to get it from than directly from the farmers themselves.

Route de la Balate

From the Sarraud Lavender Farm, we get onto the D230, heading northeast. Continue along the road for 12 minutes until you reach the Route de la Balate, just across D943. You’ll know you’ve entered the right road when you spot the tiny old stone church on the corner. The Route de la Balate stretches northwards for about 5 km towards Monieux. And while the peaceful drive through the mountain range is a gorgeous sight, the best part is the beginning. For the first few minutes, you are met by immense lavender fields stretching as far as the eye can see. On either side of the road, you’ll be able to gaze out at these blooming landscapes, and if this is your first time seeing lavender in Provence, be prepared for it to take your breath away.

Les Gorges de la Nesque

When you reach the town of Monieux, we will make a quick detour past it to return here shortly. Only a short 10 minutes west along the D942, you will cruise along one of the most picturesque roadways in Provence. The narrow road seems to cling to the cliff’s edge, revealing stunning vistas at every turn. This is the road that leads around the great Gorges de la Nesque.

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Marked on the map is a small spot to park and walk out onto an observation deck. Thankfully there are some iron fences separating you from the perilous drop into the gorge below. But there is nothing like these views! You can marvel at the dramatic limestone cliffs flanking the winding road from this spot. See if you can gaze straight down into the verdant valley to spot the meandering Nesque River below. 

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Monieux

Turn back to head back into the city of Monieux. Monieux is one of the six villages that make up the province of the Pays de Sault. Monieux is a tiny village with little more than a few streets almost carved into the hillside. There are still some vestiges of the old 12th-century medieval tower still clinging to the rocks. And you can step into the Saint Pierre chapel built in 1623. Little has changed within and it truly feels like you’ve gone back in time.

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Les Lavandes

But what brings most people to Monieux is Les Lavandes restaurant. If you plan on coming, do your best to book a reservation in advance. The small restaurant is a favourite with locals who flock here for its three-course lunch menu. The food here is an array of the best local Provencal produce. This means you’ll see everything from that classic lavender honey to truffles, lamb, mushrooms and most importantly, petit épeautre. Petit épeautre is an ancient grain local only to this one region of Provence, and if you come here, you have to try it.

The restaurant is open every day except Sunday evening and Monday all day. To make reservations, you must phone in advance. If you’re uncomfortable speaking French, you can ask your hotel concierge or rental home host to see if they can do it for you. Since the restaurant is so tiny, making the reservations is a good way to ensure you don’t come all this way only to be disappointed to find it’s all booked up.

La Bastide des Bourguets

After a delicious and filling lunch, time to jump back in the car. Just five minutes east along the D942, you will find the La Bastide des Bourguets hotel. We might not be staying here today, but this hotel is in the center of the most incredible lavender fields! And their long entry laneway makes for a great and easy place to stop to get some iconic photos.

Sault

Continue east along the D942 for another few minutes, passing dozens upon dozens of lavender fields as you go. Even on a hot day, put down the window to allow that aroma of lavender, hot in the air, to rush past you as you go. Soon you will arrive in the small town of Sault, which bares the same name as the region itself. And as such is the defacto capital of the region. 

Sault is truly one of my favourite little towns in Provence, despite its small size. The first time I stepped into the streets, I was just enraptured. The vibrant shutters, the quaint atmosphere and, of course, the panoramic views of the surrounding lavender fields with Mont Ventoux in the background.

The town center features well-preserved medieval buildings, a charming tree-covered town square, and an inviting series of brightly coloured cafés and shops. While in town, it’s worth popping your head into the 12th-century Romanesque church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Tour. If only for a refreshingly cool break from the hot summer heat. This stone landmark is a vestige of Sault’s medieval past and the showcase of the little village.

Sault Lavender Festival

Sault is known as the lavender capital of Provence! As such, it is home to its annual Lavender Festival, held on August 15th, which is a highlight of the town’s calendar. But all throughout the year, locals and tourists come together to celebrate the lavender harvest. There are so many shops here where you can find pretty much any kind of lavender souvenir you’re looking for. There is no doubt about it; this is perhaps not just the lavender capital of Provence but the entire world!

Nougat André Boyer

One shop in the centre of town that doesn’t specialize in lavender which is still worth your time, is the Nougatier André Boyer. André Boyer is a renowned confectionery brand specializing in producing high-quality nougat since 1887! Nougat has a long history in Provence, dating back several centuries. The region’s geographical location and historical connections with the Mediterranean and the Middle East resulted in the introduction of nougat to Provence hundreds of years ago. And the sweet treat became a beloved part of Provencal cuisine.

Provence’s sunny climate provides ideal conditions for cultivating almonds, a key ingredient in traditional nougat recipes. And honey, another crucial component, is sourced from the fragrant Provençal flowers, resulting in unique flavours and aromas. You can find all kinds of nougat here that use Provencal aromas like orange blossom, rosewater, and lavender to create a uniquely Provencal twist on the sweet. My favourite is their Black Nougat. This version is delicately caramelized and made with roasted almonds and lavender honey.

La Ferme aux Lavandes

After wandering the charming street of Sault, head back out along the D164. Go north for about five minutes towards La Ferme aux Lavandes. This family-run lavender farm is actually considered a floral park and botanical conservatory spread out over five hectares! This is a great place to visit with kids, as they can run around to their heart’s content. And even meet some Angora dwarf rabbits and cats that roam freely around the farm in summer.

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Their little farm shops sell various lavender goods, including lavender-flavoured jams, biscuits and teas, which are unique to this spot! As well as the other traditional lavender product you’d expect, like essential oils, sachets, potpourri and cosmetics. They have a beautiful picnic area with deck chairs and hammocks in the orchards, inviting guests to relax amongst the lavender. If you prefer a picnic lunch, this is the perfect spot to come! Inside their shop is a cafe where you can get a cold drink, ice cream or cup of coffee to pair with your al fresco-packed lunch.

In addition to the lavender, there are roses, fruit trees, and other rare plants native to Provence that rub shoulders with the lavender in the fields and gardens.

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Le Chemin des Lavandes

Loop back to the D942, where you can find Le Chemin des Lavandes or Lavender Path. This short 5 km path takes around an hour and a half to complete. But you can easily make it as short as you want. Many people simply walk out for 15 mins and then return, especially on hot days. But stepping out of your car, outside of the villages, and into the fields allows you to explore the peaceful atmosphere of the Provencal countryside.

The pathways are mostly paved, so it is a walk that almost everyone can do. But remember, there is no shade, so put on your sunscreen and wear a hat! As you make your way up through the fields, you are overwhelmed by the smell of lavender filling the air! Along the way, you’ll see farmers harvesting crops, sheep out to graze, and butterflies and bees feeding off delicious lavender nectar! Such a wonderful little walk to explore the natural beauty that the Pays de Sault has to offer.

Aurel

After your walk, jump back in the car and head north along D942 for 3 km to the town of Aurel. Aurel has been named one of the “Most Beautiful Villages of France,” an official designation aimed to highlight the most exceptional places in France. It was also nicknamed the village of painters, as it inspired artworks from famous Provençal artists René Seyssaud and Pierre Ambrogiani. 

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Aurel streets are a wash with well-preserved medieval buildings. As you wander through the village, you’ll come across the Romanesque Church of Saint-Aurel, an architectural gem that dates back to the 12th century. The church features a bell tower with varnished tiles that still glimmer in the sunlight after all these years. A unique feature for churches in Provence and a glimpse into Aurel’s religious and artistic heritage.

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Le Plus Beau Champs de Lavande

Driving away from Aurel, you are met with the most beautiful lavender fields. Marked on the map are the “Le Plus Beau Champs De Lavande” or “the most beautiful lavender fields.” This is the spot where you can take that iconic picture of the lavender fields below the city of Aurel. Spread out like a blanket under the shadow of this fortified medieval town.

Ferrassières Bories Lavender Fields

From here, head onto the D63 towards Ferrassières. The D63 is a phenomenal route for lavender viewing, with fields just one after the other. Make a slight turn west along D189, passing through Ferrassières, to the Bories Lavender field. Bories are ancient Provencal stone huts. They are considered some of the most traditional agricultural dwellings. Bories were primarily built as shelters for shepherds; some can date back centuries!

The stones are carefully stacked and interlocked to create sturdy and weather-resistant structures. The circular shape of the huts, along with their low, domed roofs, helped to ensure stability and protection from the elements. Hence why so many old ones remain standing today. The bories found here are set deep into the lavender fields. Creating the most stunning setting for a photo. The white of the stones contrasts with the bright purple fields of lavender. Add to this the almost neon blue skies, and you’ve got a recipe for an awe-inspiring photo!

Saint Trinit

Head back through Ferrassières along the D189, which turns into the D157 towards the small town of Saint-Trinit. Saint Trinit sits at the crossroads of the Vaucluse, the Drôme and the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. The little village was formed around the Benedictine Abbey of St. Andre in the 11th century. And its most important structure is the incredible 11th-century Romanesque church which still stands in the centre of town.

Many of the houses in the village are still made of the original stones found in the region, making it looks like a place from a bygone era. The village is surrounded by lavender and wheat fields, all under the watchful eye of Mont Ventoux. 

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Bistrot de Pays

If it’s open, the Bistrot de Pays is a wonderful place to grab dinner. The owner of this restaurant worked for 20 years in a four-star establishment in Avignon. But after putting in his time, he decided to move out to the country to open his own restaurant.

At the Bistrot de Pays, you are served exceptional cuisine, all made with all local products. The restaurant is the hub of the community, and you’ll feel like you’re dining with family! Sitting out on the shaded terrace, there is no better place to absorb the true Provencal ambiance. Reflecting on the wonderful day you’ve had exploring the countryside with a glass of wine and a plate of good food. Be sure to call or email in advance to ask for their hours and make a reservation. So you don’t arrive disappointed.

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I hope you enjoyed your drive along the Lavender Route in the Pays de Sault! This is the most peaceful and least popular of the Provencal Lavender Routes, but well worth checking out if you’re visiting Provence late in the summer. Let me know in the comments if you have any questions or where your favourite spot in Provence has been to view these stunning lavender landscapes.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of the Lavender Route in Provence: Pays de Sault first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Three different regions around Provence are known for their lavender-producing fields. These are the Valensole Plateau, Pays de Sault and the Luberon Valley. I always choose one area to make a day out to discover the magic of the magnificent lavender fields in Provence. Focusing on one specific region allows you to explore it to the fullest. Discover hidden corners and stop to relax and soak in the scenery. So today, let’s dive (or drive) into the fields around the Luberon Valley.

Table Of Contents

1. Luberon Valley Lavender Route Map
2. About the Luberon Valley
3. The History of Lavender in Provence
4. When to see the Lavender Route in Provence
5. Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route
6. Provencal Lavender Varieties 
7. Start your Tour along the Luberon Lavender Route at the Musée de la Lavande
8. Gordes Lookout Parking
9. Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque
10. Stop for a Visit in Gordes
11. Explore the D2 Roads and their Lavender Field
12. Check out the Ochre Streets of Roussillon
13. Step on the Roman Roads along the Pont Julien
14. D36 & the Lavender House
15. Explore the Steeped Magic of Bonnieux
16. Les Agnels Lavender Distillery
17. Discover Roman Candied Fruits in Apt
18. View of Saignon from the D48
19. Wander the Flower Street of Saignon
20. Le Petit Cabanon Aux Lavandes

Luberon Valley Lavender Route Map

How Long Does this Route Take?

The Luberon Lavender Route is a day-long self-guided road trip. It leads you across the Luberon from east to west, stopping in some of the most picturesque villages. While you might be able to speed through each stop, the Luberon and Provence in generally a place for taking things slow. Letting the atmosphere of this place seep in as you just cruise along, admiring the fantastical views out your window. And, of course, stopping for a glass of wine with views of the lavender fields along the way. This tour is a great way to explore many of Provence’s iconic villages and the stunning lavender landscapes.

About the Luberon Valley

Nestled in the heart of Provence, the enchanting Luberon Valley captivates all who enter its borders. With its stunning medieval villages and breathtaking landscapes, there is no escaping the spell this place weaves all around you. Cradled between the Vaucluse and Alpes-de-Haute-Provence is the great Luberon Massif. The Luberon Massif is a series of limestone hills forming the backbone of the valley, creating its captivating backdrop. These hills are adorned with lush greenery, fragrant lavender fields, and vineyards, creating a patchwork of colours that change with the seasons. But no doubt the most magical of these seasons is the summer when the fields are awash with purple flowers from the blooming lavender.

The History of Lavender in Provence

“Lavender” comes from the Latin “lavare,” meaning washing. Since ancient Antiquity, the Romans knew how powerful the lavender plant was. They used it for its medicinal properties and aromatic qualities, and especially for washing. But Lavender is not native to Provence. It was brought to the countryside by the Romans. The Romans knew that Provence’s dry, sunny climate and well-drained soils would be ideal for lavender growth. In the Middle Ages, lavender cultivation in Provence was primarily undertaken by monastic communities. Monks recognized the value of lavender for its therapeutic uses and began growing it in monastery gardens.

Over time, the cultivation of lavender expanded beyond monasteries. Farmers and locals started cultivating lavender on a larger scale. In the 19th century, the demand for lavender products, such as essential oil, perfume, and soaps, increased domestically and internationally. And lavender became one of the most important agricultural exports for the region. Distillation techniques improved, allowing for efficient processing of lavender crops. Today, lavender fields in Provence are an iconic symbol of the region, attracting tourists from all over the world.

When to see the Lavender Route in Provence

The Lavender in the Luberon Valley is the first to bloom from June to early July. The exact timing of the lavender bloom can vary slightly from year to year, depending on weather conditions and other factors. It is always a good idea to check with local sources, such as local lavender farms or tourist information centers in the area, for the most up-to-date information on the lavender bloom in the Luberon Valley.

If you book your trip well in advance and the weather isn’t behaving, and you arrive too late to see the blooms in the Luberon, you can always drive further up towards the Valensole Plateau. Or even higher up in the Pays de Sault to see the lavender fields there. These bloom slightly later in the seasons due to their high elevation.

Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route

Field Etiquette

Before entering lavender fields, remember to respect the farmers’ hard work and follow any posted guidelines. If there are any roped-off areas, avoid entering. They are there for a reason. But with so many different fields to visit, you will always find somewhere you can walk right into the fields to get those sprawling views. Remember to avoid stepping on the plants at all costs. This is how these farmers make a living, and you would hate to be responsible for damaging their crops.

Always be sure to walk only down the rows of lavender and not over them. And never pick the flowers. There are so many places around Provence to buy very inexpensive stalks of lavender; there is no need to pick them yourself in case you damage the plant by doing so. Plus, stalks of lavender must be dried to be preserved, so best to buy them after they have been left to dry.

What to Wear & What to Bring

During the summer, when the lavender blooms in Provence, it can be impossibly hot. So be sure to wear plenty of sunscreens and always bring a large, wide-brimmed hat to ensure you aren’t directly exposed to the sun. Especially in the fields, there is no shade to escape under, so you will always be in direct sunlight. As you walk around in the lavender fields, wear some sensible shoes. Sneakers or comfortable sandals are the best options for footwear.

Bring a nice, thick picnic blanket with you if you want to have a little picnic along the way. Most fields don’t have super soft ground, so having a good, thick base to sit on is a great idea to ensure you’re comfortable. Also, bring everything you’ll need for the picnic, from food and drinks to cutlery and napkins. And always make sure to leave your picnic spot exactly how you found it and bring all your garbage home with you. Be sure you bring plenty of water, more than you’ll think you need, for long days out in the sun.

Renting a Car

To make the most of this photographic region of Provence, you’ll want to rent a car to get around. It’s advisable to book your rental car in advance, especially during peak travel seasons. When picking a rental car for your travels in Provence, I always air on the smaller side. Smaller cars are ideal for navigating narrow village streets. And some roads in Provence you might think are one lane only, but before you know it, you’ll discover they aren’t. And the smaller your car, the easier it is to scoot by. Just be sure to pack lightly to ensure you can fit all your luggage into the car.

Rules of the Road

Be sure to familiarize yourself with France’s road rules and driving customs. In France, you drive on the right side of the road. And remember that priority is given to vehicles coming from the right at intersections without traffic lights or signs. The roads in Provence have very strict speed limits. And there are hidden speed cameras even in small villages and dirty roads. And these speed cameras will fine you for going even 10km over the limit! These fines will be mailed to you back home, so there is so escaping them after your trip. So you should always keep an eye on these speed limits. Some cars come with a GPS system that will alert you to the change in speed limits. Or use Waze to help you get an alert when a speed camera is in effect.

Parking

Before stopping your car to get out and explore the fields, you’ll want to do so safely. You don’t want to stop your car in the middle of the road and block oncoming traffic. Trust me; there are many places to stop, so if you think you’re missing an opportunity, another will come any minute. Many lavender fields have come to expect tourists these days. And there will often be a patch of dirt where you can park your car, off to the side of the road, near the fields. Never ever park or drive your car right into the lavender plants field.

Lots of the lavender producers and shops have parking lots out front. You can explore the shops and then head back to see the fields beyond. When in villages, there are both free and paid parking options. Pay attention to parking signs to avoid any fines or penalties.

Photography Tips

You have to expect to see a lot of people during the summer months. But arriving early in the morning or right at sunset will ensure you get as much of the field to yourself as possible. And remember, if you just turn your camera this way or that, it’s easy enough to get a shot without other people in it. Be kind to those around you; everyone is there for the same reason.

Going By Guided Tour

While renting a car and going at your own pace is always my recommendation, if you don’t want to drive yourself and instead just want to relax and be led by a guide, you have plenty of options. These guided tours stop off at producers and fields and combine your day trip with a visit to famous neighbouring villages like Gordes and Roussillon.

Provencal Lavender Varieties 

When it comes to lavender, there are over 30 different species. But the two most popular you’ll find in Provence are Fine Lavender and Lavandine. While they both belong to the Lavandula genus, there are distinct differences in the characteristics, aroma, and cultivation of each plant.

Fine lavender (or Lavandula angustifolia) typically grows in compact, bushy formations, reaching around two-three feet. It showcases slender, linear leaves with a gray-green hue. Its slender and elongated flowers form tight spikes at the top of the stems. The blossoms display a lovely lavender-purple colour. This flower offers a delicate, sweet, and floral fragrance. Its scent is often soothing, calming, and reminiscent of the quintessential lavender aroma.

Lavandine (or Lavandula x intermedia) is a much larger plant, often growing up to three-four feet tall. Its flowers are shorter and fuller than Fine Lavender, forming dense and rounded flower spikes. The colour of the blossoms can range from lavender-purple to bluish-purple. Lavandine exhibits a more intense fragrance compared to Fine Lavender. Its scent carries a sharper, medicinal note with hints of camphor (woody scent), making it suitable for various aromatherapy applications. Lavandine also typically blooms a bit later than Fine Lavender.

Start your Tour along the Luberon Lavender Route at the Musée de la Lavande

One of the best places to start your journey along the Luberon Lavender Route is at the Musée de la Lavande. This delightful and immersive museum allows you to explore Provence’s rich history of cultivating and producing lavender and lavender products. The museum is nestled in the picturesque countryside, just outside the town of Coustellet (which has an incredible Sunday morning market FYI.) The small building is submerged in rolling fields of lavender, creating a serene and idyllic setting right off the start. Just by walking up to its doors, you are greeted by the enchanting aroma of lavender that fills the air. 

Inside the museum, you can learn more about the history of lavender cultivation, its origins, various uses throughout the centuries, and the traditional harvesting and distillation methods. My favourite part of the museum had to be its collection of vintage ephemera and antique perfume bottles. If you’re someone who loves history and beautiful things, this is worth checking out!

Hours & Admission

Hours: Open every day in the summer from 10 am – 6 pm
Tradition & Heritage Tour with Audio Guide Admission: Adults €8 | Student €7 | Children (11-16) €4 | Children under 10 are free

Gordes Lookout Parking

From the museum, we take off on the D2 highway. When you reach the turn-off towards the D15, watch for the Gordes Lookout Point Parking lot. From this easy-to-reach spot, you have the most incredible view over the valley and across to the historic town of Gordes. We will have a chance to enter Gordes later on in the tour, but there is nowhere to get this view of the perched village. It seemed to reach up into the sky, like a multi-tiered wedding cake or something out of the Lord of the Rings! This spot is not to be missed.

Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque

Probably the most photographed lavender field in Provence is the fields surrounding the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque. The Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque is a breathtaking Cistercian abbey that has stood in this same spot for centuries. Surrounded by rolling hills and fields of lavender, one is immediately struck by its striking silhouette. The Abbey’s stone walls rise majestically against lush greenery and purple blooms, evoking a sense of serenity and timelessness. Whether you arrive simply to gaze at the scenery or enter the Abbey itself, please remember that this is a functional monastic order. Where monks come to pray and work. So please be respectful when exploring the grounds.

Entering the Abbey

Walking through the Abbey’s iron gates, visitors are greeted by a tranquil courtyard adorned with vibrant flower beds and meticulously manicured gardens. The scent of lavender fills the air, adding a touch of aromatic magnificence to the surroundings. The Abbey’s peaceful atmosphere invites contemplation and reflection, an essential part of the monastic order. And for us visitors, it provides a respite from the fast pace of our modern life.

The simple yet elegant Romanesque architecture dates back to the 12th century. To enter the monastery, you do need to pay an admission fee. But if you come here to admire the beauty of the lavender fields, it’s only right to give back to the order to help them maintain these gardens for years to come. So I would highly recommending heading inside.

Interior

Inside, the interior reveals the austere yet captivating beauty of the Cistercian order. The Abbey’s church features a simple yet graceful vaulted ceiling adorned with delicate stone carvings. Windows allow soft rays of sunlight to filter through, casting that eternal glow on the cold stone floors. The stillness and reverence of the Abbey create a sense of awe in all those who enter.

But the most impressive part of the interior is the cloisters. A cloister is an enclosed courtyard surrounded by four galleries, each featuring twelve arches leading to an ornamental garden. Ae sure to study the elegant flora motifs that decorate the garden’s columns. Although the rest of the design of the Abbey is rather austere, these little details make the space come alive. And shows the respect and reverence the order has for nature. 

Lavender Fields

The surrounding lavender fields, meticulously tended by the monks, create a stunning vista that captures the essence of Provence’s natural beauty. The sight of the vibrant purple blooms against the backdrop of the Abbey is a true feast for the senses. The rule of Saint Benedict, “pray and work” (Ora et labora), teaches the monastic practice of working and praying. The monks are encouraged to work to strengthen their connection to the natural world and therein with god. Whether it is growing lavender, cultivating a vegetable garden, tending to the olive trees, making honey or maintaining buildings, the monks work tirelessly to preserve the heritage passed down to them by their predecessors.

They also have a small shop on the premises which sells a variety of goods harvested by their order. The revenue their earn helps maintain and restore the Abbey. And they each have a distinctly Provencal charm and are worth bringing home as a souvenir.

Hours & Admission

Hours: Monday to Saturday: 9:30 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 5 p.m | Sunday: 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. 
Admission: Adult 9€ | Child (6-17) 4€ | Seniors 4€ | Student (18-25) 6€ 
Guided Tours are in French only. HistoPads are available in 10 languages ​​(English, German, Italian, Spanish, Dutch, Chinese, Japanese, Polish and Portuguese) and are included with your admission.

Stop for a Visit in Gordes

After exploring the Abbey, hop back in the car and head into the great hillside city of Gordes. After seeing it from the viewpoint, exploring its interior is a different experience. Walking the narrow cobblestone streets of this magnificent village nestled into the hillside feels like you’ve stepped into a fairytale.

You can wander around the great Gordes Castle, a majestic fortress and architectural gem of Provence. Or simply lose yourself in the medieval ambiance as you explore the winding alleyways and stumble upon charming squares adorned with vibrant flowers. Be sure to make your way out to one of the many views points which offer panoramic pictures of the surrounding countryside. If you’re lucky, you’ll see from above the brushstrokes of purple flowers emanating from the blooming fields of Lavender.

Explore the D2 Roads and their Lavender Field

Wind your way down toward the D2 roadway. The D2 or Route de Thorenc or Route de Gentelly is about six mins from the centre of Gordes. Once you reach it, you will begin to pass the first of many lavender fields along the side of the roads. Each one is more impressive than the next. This road feels like it is the epitome of Provencal landscapes. Cypress trees line long entryways into bygone farm buildings. Olive and cherry trees brimming with life dazzle in the distance. Rows of poppies are pressed up against the roadside. And the dramatic mountains create a mesmerizing backdrop. All while the smell of lavender wafts through the hot summer air. 

Continue along the D2 for a few minutes and turn right onto D102. As you approach the Route des Gordes on the D102, you will suddenly emerge into lavender fields on either side of your car! Dense and lush, so even in the heat of the summer, you’ll want to roll that window down.

Check out the Ochre Streets of Roussillon

Head east on Route de Gordes/D169 towards the ochre village of Roussillon. Park your car in the parking lot at the base of the village and walk into town. Roussillon is renowned for its vibrant ochre cliffs, which paint the landscape in warm red, orange, and yellow hues. As you stroll through the town, the rich colours of the buildings, adorned with shutters in shades of blue and green, create a harmonious contrast against the backdrop of the ochre cliffs. These natural ochre deposits have been a source of inspiration for artists throughout the years. And walking the streets makes you feel inspired by the amazing colours that feel larger than life.

Take your time to explore Roussillon’s narrow streets and pause at Place de la Mairie. This is the town’s central square, where locals gather, and the vibrant ambiance invites you to savour a quiet moment. Roussillon is replete with darling artisanal boutiques and inviting cafés. One of my favourite things to do in Roussillon is to get ice cream, choosing a uniquely Provencal flavour like lavender honey, apricot rosemary, chestnut or violet. With a cool treat, I head off to enjoy my snack from the edge of the city, along the Roussillon Lookout. On a clear day, you can see all across Provence. And the purple hues of the lavender fields spread like a blanket on the valley below.

Step on the Roman Roads along the Pont Julien

Once back at the car, take the D149 and D108 towards Bonnieux. Passing several lavender fields along the way. Before arriving in Bonnieux, we will stop off at the Pont Julien. The Pont Julien looks like a regular limestone bridge from afar. But when you get close up, you can see it’s much more than that. Here we have one of Provence’s most remarkable vestiges of the ancient Roman empire. Spanning across the Calavon River, this architectural masterpiece was constructed in the 1st century BC. It was a crucial transportation link on the Via Domitia, the principal Roman road connecting Italy and Spain. The fact the bridge still stands today is a testament to the ingenuity and engineering prowess of the Romans. 

Crossing the Pont Julien is like stepping back in time. Cars can no longer travel across, but people and bicycles can go freely along the bridge. As you walk along its weathered stone surface, you can’t help but imagine the ancient Romans and the countless travellers who once journeyed across this very bridge. The panoramic views of the lush countryside and rolling hills of Provence around you provide a breathtaking backdrop, enhancing the sense of awe and wonder. 

D36 & the Lavender House

Depart from the Pont Julien and pass onto D36 via the Chemin de l’Oratoire. When you make your right turn on the D36, you will suddenly emerge onto a road flanked on either side by rolling lavender fields. One of the most iconic photography points along this road is the ‘Lavander House,‘ a hotel property with a beautiful long laneway leading to their estate. On either side of the magnificent laneway are blooming purple fields of lavender fields, guarded by two majestic stone lions on either side of the elegant iron gates.

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Explore the Steeped Magic of Bonnieux

Continue along the D36 towards the charming and picturesque town of Bonnieux. This village is another perched hilltop town which offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, vineyards, and valleys. The city is tiny, with limited parking, and the narrow roadways make it challenging to look for parking spots. I advise parking in the lot marked on the map in the new church just below the entry to the city. From here, it’s a short and scenic ten-minute walk into town.

One of the highlights of Bonnieux is its well-preserved medieval character. As you wander through its narrow, winding streets, you’ll encounter beautiful stone houses, centuries-old churches, and quaint squares. Strolling through the town, you’ll discover various artisanal shops selling everything from pottery to lavender-based products and local wines.

Eglise Haute

At the center of Bonnieux stands the Eglise Haute, or high church. The high refers to its religious status and its literal spots at the highest point in the village. The church is a magnificent example of 12th-century architecture. And even from far below, it dominates the skyline. The walk up the hill and the many stairs to reach the church rewards those who summit with a panoramic across the stunning Luberon Valley. 

Le Wine Club

If you are looking for a spot to relax on your way down from the church, stop at the ‘Le Wine Club‘ on the Rue des Pénitents Blancs. This little hole in the wall (literally) is home to a well-curated wine selection with many vintages from some of the best winemakers around Provence. You can sample some of their best open bottles in brick interior vaults or outside on their peaceful back terrace.

Les Agnels Lavender Distillery

Head back and jump in your car to make your way east toward Apt. Drive along the D36 to the D232 and north up along the D113. In about 20-minutes you’ll make your way to the beautiful entry to Les Agnels Distillerie. This Lavender distillery is a family-owned farm that has been working these fields as far back as the Middle Ages! They began distilling lavender in 1895, and five generations later, they have perfected their techniques.

Today, they have opened their doors and invited you to come inside and learn more about how they harvest the essence of these aromatic plants. You can visit a small museum and exhibition which retraces the history of the Agnel family. Inside the distillery, one of the family members will guide you, explaining their cultivation methods, the distillation processes, and the olfactory differences between lavender and lavandin. It’s a beautiful way to connect to the people who make these products and have been intimately connected to lavender for generations.

Hours and Admission

In July and August, guided tours in French take place Monday to Friday at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m., and in English at 3 p.m. Duration: 1 hour €7 per person – Free for children under 12 | Reservation required

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Discover Roman Candied Fruits in Apt

After another 10 minutes along the D113 and up the D943B, you will arrive in the town of Apt. Apt is known for its charming medieval character, narrow streets and old buildings. But what sets this town apart is its long-standing tradition of candying fruits. In fact, Apt hosts an annual candied fruit festival called “Fête de la Confiture,” where locals celebrate this culinary tradition.

One of the best places to find these unique confections year round is with a trip to the ‘La Maison du Fruit Confit.’ Here you can taste and buy candied fruit made right here in Provence. The Romans were the first to preserve fruit year-round in honey. And little has changed, aside from replacing honey with sugar, as it is more cost-effective. This method of preserving the Provencal summer fruits like apricots, cherries, clementines, figs, melons, pears and plums is one of the oldest culinary traditions in France and one worth tasting for yourself.

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If you’d like to explore more of the old town of Apt, head down to the impressive Cathédrale Sainte-Anne. This 12th-century Romanesque cathedral is another testament to the town’s Roman past. The lower crypt of the building dates back to the 1st century, as it was initially part of a Roman structure. During the medieval period, the town was fortified with rampart walls and traces of these fortifications can still be observed in certain areas.

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View of Saignon from the D48

Jumping back on the road, we continue east, towards Saignon, on the D48. Before heading through Saignon, stop at the spot marked on the “View of Saignon Lavender fields.” From here, you have the most picturesque place to see the rows upon rows of lavender plants spread out in front of the sprawling city of Saignon rising from the hillside.

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Wander the Flower Street of Saignon

Saignon is situated on a rocky outcrop overlooking the surrounding countryside. Many houses in this “rocky acropolis” have kept their medieval appearance. But to me, it is the vast array of vibrant flowers and creeping ivy that covers almost every building in town that makes this place feel like such a magical, almost storybook-like spot to visit.

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If you want to grab a bite for dinner, head over to the Jardine sur le Toit, which translates to “Garden on the Roof.” Located at the top of Saignon, on the remains of the 12th century Château de Crugiere, this restaurant offers breathtaking and panoramic views of the Luberon on their garden terrace. While the views are extraordinary, the restaurant’s vibe is comfortable and relaxed, featuring down-to-earth Provencal classics. The perfect spot to enjoy a delicious meal made from local produce across the valley you’ve traversed.

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Le Petit Cabanon Aux Lavandes

To finish your day along the Luberon Lavender Route, go northeast along the D174 to the Petit Cabanon aux Lavandes. This small stone house with traditional wooden shutters is nestled amid lavender fields on the hills of the Luberon. Today, it has been restored and rented out on Airbnb to a few lucky visitors. But if you aren’t staying in the cabin, you can still take pictures of the iconic photo spot along the roadside. If you can plan around being here for sunset, you’ll be in for a real visual treat!

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From here, you have come to the end of our self-guided Luberon Valley Lavender Route tour. As you bid farewell to the Luberon Valley, take a moment to reflect on the beauty and serenity you’ve encountered along the Lavender Route. The memories of lavender-scented breezes, breathtaking vistas, and the warmth of Provence will remain etched in your mind, forever transporting you back to this magical corner of the world.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Guide to Exploring the Lavender Routes in Provence: the Luberon Valley first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Three different regions around Provence are known for their lavender-producing fields. These are the Valensole Plateau, Pays de Sault and the Luberon Valley. I always choose one area to make a day out to discover the magic of the magnificent lavender fields in Provence. Focusing on one specific region allows you to explore it to the fullest. Discover hidden corners and stop to relax and soak in the scenery. So today, let’s dive (or drive) into the fields around the Valensole Plateau.

Table Of Contents

1. The Valensole Lavender Route in Provence
2. How Long Does this Route Take?
3. About the Valensole Plateau 
4. The History of Lavender in Provence
5. When to see the Lavender Route in Provence
6. Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route
7. Photography Tips
8. Going By Guided Tour
9. Provence Lavender Varieties 
10. Starting your Road Trip Across the Valensole Route Lavender 
11. Terraroma
12. Angelvin Lavandine
13. Château du Grand Jardin
14. The Village of Valensole
15. Producteur Miel Aux Fleurs De Lavande
16. Brasserie du Plateau
17. D8 – Route de Riez
18. Lavender Hut

The Valensole Lavender Route in Provence

How Long Does this Route Take?

The Valensole Lavender Route is the shortest of the different drives you can take around Provence to explore the Lavender fields. This route will take half a day, making all stops. So you can easily fit a visit to one of the neighbouring towns if you’d like to spend all day in the Valensole region or simply head back to home base to relax after an enjoyable morning.

About the Valensole Plateau 

The Valensole Plateau is one of the most beautiful regions of Provence. The area is located in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, between the valleys of the Durance River to the west, the Asse River to the north, the Gorges du Verdon and Lake Sainte-Croix to the south. The region comprises gently rolling hills, open meadows, and expansive fields. The landscape is littered with picturesque farmhouses, quaint villages, and charming Provençal architecture, creating a postcard-perfect setting. But from June to August, endless rows of lavender stretch across the countryside. Casting a truly awe-inspiring feast for the eyes and senses. 

The History of Lavender in Provence

“Lavender” comes from the Latin “lavare,” meaning washing. Since ancient Antiquity, the Romans knew how powerful the lavender plant was. They used it for its medicinal properties and aromatic qualities, and especially for washing. But Lavender is not native to Provence. It was brought to the countryside by the Romans. The Romans knew that Provence’s dry, sunny climate and well-drained soils would be ideal for lavender growth. In the Middle Ages, lavender cultivation in Provence was primarily undertaken by monastic communities. Monks recognized the value of lavender for its therapeutic uses and began growing it in monastery gardens.

Over time, the cultivation of lavender expanded beyond monasteries. Farmers and locals started cultivating lavender on a larger scale. In the 19th century, the demand for lavender products, such as essential oil, perfume, and soaps, increased domestically and internationally. And lavender became one of the most important agricultural exports for the region. Distillation techniques improved, allowing for efficient processing of lavender crops. Today, lavender fields in Provence are an iconic symbol of the region, attracting tourists from all over the world.

When to see the Lavender Route in Provence

Because the Valensole Plateau is about 500 m above sea level, the lavender in this region typically blooms from mid-June to mid-July. However, it’s important to note that exact blooming times can vary slightly depending on weather conditions throughout the year. In 2023 there was a larger amount of rainfall in the area, delaying the blooms. If you arrive too late or too early, you can always visit the fields in the Luberon or Sault. These areas bloom earlier and later respectively. The best place to get up-to-date information on the bloomings is from local tourism websites, lavender farms themselves, or tourist information centers. All of these are great resources for updates on the current state of the lavender fields.

Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route

Field Etiquette

Before entering lavender fields, remember to respect the farmers’ hard work and follow any posted guidelines. If there are any roped-off areas, avoid entering. They are there for a reason. But with so many different fields to visit, you will always find somewhere you can walk right into the fields to get those sprawling views. Remember to avoid stepping on the plants at all costs. This is how these farmers make a living, and you would hate to be responsible for damaging their crops.

Always be sure to walk only down the rows of lavender and not over them. And never pick the flowers. There are so many places around Provence to buy very inexpensive stalks of lavender; there is no need to pick them yourself in case you damage the plant by doing so. Plus, stalks of lavender must be dried to be preserved, so best to buy them after they have been left to dry.

What to Wear & What to Bring

During the summer, when the lavender blooms in Provence, it can be impossibly hot. So be sure to wear plenty of sunscreens and always bring a large, wide-brimmed hat to ensure you aren’t directly exposed to the sun. Especially in the fields, there is no shade to escape under, so you will always be in direct sunlight. As you walk around in the lavender fields, wear some sensible shoes. Sneakers or comfortable sandals are the best options for footwear.

Bring a nice, thick picnic blanket with you if you want to have a little picnic along the way. Most fields don’t have super soft ground, so having a good, thick base to sit on is a great idea to ensure you’re comfortable. Also, bring everything you’ll need for the picnic, from food and drinks to cutlery and napkins. And always make sure to leave your picnic spot exactly how you found it and bring all your garbage home with you. Be sure you bring plenty of water, more than you’ll think you need, for long days out in the sun.

Renting a Car

To make the most of this photographic region of Provence, you’ll want to rent a car to get around. It’s advisable to book your rental car in advance, especially during peak travel seasons. When picking a rental car for your travels in Provence, I always air on the smaller side. Smaller cars are ideal for navigating narrow village streets. And some roads in Provence you might think are one lane only, but before you know it, you’ll discover they aren’t. And the smaller your car, the easier it is to scoot by. Just be sure to pack lightly to ensure you can fit all your luggage into the car.

Rules of the Road

Be sure to familiarize yourself with France’s road rules and driving customs. In France, you drive on the right side of the road. And remember that priority is given to vehicles coming from the right at intersections without traffic lights or signs. The roads in Provence have very strict speed limits. And there are hidden speed cameras even in small villages and dirty roads. And these speed cameras will fine you for going even 10km over the limit! These fines will be mailed to you back home, so there is so escaping them after your trip. So you should always keep an eye on these speed limits. Some cars come with a GPS system that will alert you to the change in speed limits. Or use Waze to help you get an alert when a speed camera is in effect.

Parking

Before stopping your car to get out and explore the fields, you’ll want to do so safely. You don’t want to stop your car in the middle of the road and block oncoming traffic. Trust me; there are many places to stop, so if you think you’re missing an opportunity, another will come any minute. Many lavender fields have come to expect tourists these days. And there will often be a patch of dirt where you can park your car, off to the side of the road, near the fields. Never ever park or drive your car right into the lavender plants field.

Lots of the lavender producers and shops have parking lots out front. You can explore the shops and then head back to see the fields beyond. When in villages, there are both free and paid parking options. Pay attention to parking signs to avoid any fines or penalties.

Photography Tips

You have to expect to see a lot of people during the summer months. But arriving early in the morning, or right at sunset, will ensure you get as much of the field to yourself as possible. And remember, if you just turn your camera this way or that, it’s easy enough to get a shot without other people in it. Be kind to those around you; everyone is there for the same reason.

Going By Guided Tour

While renting a car and going at your own pace is always my recommendation, if you don’t want to drive yourself and instead just want to relax and be led by a guide, you have plenty of options. These guided tours stop off at producers and fields and combine your day trip with a visit to famous neighbouring villages like Moustiers-Sainte-Marie and Sainte Croix du Verdon.

Provence Lavender Varieties 

When it comes to lavender, there are over 30 different species. But the two most popular you’ll find in Provence are Fine Lavender and Lavandine. While they both belong to the Lavandula genus, there are distinct differences in the characteristics, aroma, and cultivation of each plant.

Fine lavender (or Lavandula angustifolia) typically grows in compact, bushy formations, reaching around two-three feet. It showcases slender, linear leaves with a gray-green hue. Its slender and elongated flowers form tight spikes at the top of the stems. The blossoms display a lovely lavender-purple colour. This flower offers a delicate, sweet, and floral fragrance. Its scent is often soothing, calming, and reminiscent of the quintessential lavender aroma.

Lavandine (or Lavandula x intermedia) is a much larger plant, often growing up to three-four feet tall. Its flowers are shorter and fuller than Fine Lavender, forming dense and rounded flower spikes. The colour of the blossoms can range from lavender-purple to bluish-purple. Lavandine exhibits a more intense fragrance compared to Fine Lavender. Its scent carries a sharper, medicinal note with hints of camphor (woody scent), making it suitable for various aromatherapy applications. Lavandine also typically blooms a bit later than Fine Lavender.

Starting your Road Trip Across the Valensole Route Lavender 

Start your journey early in the morning. Tourists come out in full force by mid-afternoon, so starting early, you’ll hope to beat the big crowds. Before heading out into the Valensole, always ensure your car has a full tank of gas. Gas stations can be few and far between out in the country. It’s always good to get enough gas for the journey so you don’t end up needing to backtrack for a fuel station. We also always ensure to stop off at our local boulangerie before leaving. That way, we can stock up on some snacks for the road. Great for an impromptu picnic in the lavender fields.

To begin your day along the Valensole Lavender route, start your journey on the Route de Manosque or the D6 roadway. This peaceful road stretches across the valley, with views of the mountains in the distance. As you wind down the road, you’ll pass through orchards of almond trees and vibrant red poppies lining, acting as a floral carpet across the roadside. And then, all of a sudden, you make one turn and, like magic, you are suddenly immersed in the world of lavender. Fields of purple stretch as far as the eye can see. The fields on either side of your car are absolutely flanked with lavender. Bushy green leaves support surging stems of bright purple lavender blooms all the way to the horizon.

Terraroma

Our first stop of the day is the Terraroma farm. The family of Jaubert has owned the fields here for four generations. As a mainstay in the community, they take great pride in their products. They produce everything from Provencal almonds to honey, but their most popular items are their cosmetics made from their lavender.

Lavender products offer a range of benefits, as lavender is known for its soothing and therapeutic properties. From sleep aids to skincare and relaxation, there seems to be a myriad of ways in which lavender can help you. Terraroma does a really fantastic job of creating cosmetics from their fields that feel very luxurious. Many touristy shops only carry essential oils or soaps, but you can get face creams, shampoos, body lotion and even eau-de-toilette here. Many of their lavender products are blended with the almond oil they produce. Almond oil is one of the best formulations for skin moisturization, and mixed with that divine scent of lavender makes for the most luxurious-smelling hand cream.

There is no charge to park at these little roadside producer shops. While you don’t need to go inside, I highly recommend it as the prices direct from the producers are some of the cheapest you’ll find in Provence. After you finish touring the shop, take a walk down their vast fields of lavender. The other great bonus of visiting Terraroma is that they also grow sunflowers in addition to lavender. And these fields also make for amazing photos! The sight of those brilliant yellow flowers next to the dense array of purple blooms is such beautiful contrast.

Opening Hours: Monday – Saturday, 9am- 12pm & 2pm to 6pm | Closed Sundays

Angelvin Lavandine

Just two minutes down the road is another very popular lavender producer, Angelvin Lavandine. Walking into the shop here, you can meet with the farmers, who will explain their various harvesting and distillation methods. It’s a great opportunity to learn how they manage to get the essence of the lavender out of the plant and into these various products.

Angelvin Lavandine sells traditionally “Provencal” themed gift baskets. These make for wonderful presents to bring home and give to your loved ones. And while you’re there, be sure to try some of their lavender ice creams. While floral-flavoured ice cream might not be for everyone, it’s definitely worth trying. I find it it’s truly delicious!

At the back of the shop, you can see their giant harvesting equipment. And outside the barn are huge bails of lavender plants, harvested and ready to be processed. The fields outside the shop are nice and wide, with large healthy plants where you can stop and take some photos.

Opening Hours: 9 am to 6 pm every day in the summer

As you continue along the D6, you’ll pass several more open lavender fields. These fields are just on the side of the road without an accompanying souvenir shop. If you’re going to stop, be sure you are pulling over onto a part of the field that isn’t occupied by any plants. You’ll easily see the areas meant for vehicles. Do not stop in the middle of the road.

Château du Grand Jardin

As you continue along, you will enter the village of Valensole. Just at the entry to the little village is the old Château du Grand Jardin. The castle dates back to the 17th century. The Fresse de Monval family acquired “Le Grand Jardin,” and built a country house here around 1680. In the late 19th century, the de Fresse de Monval and d’Auvergne families expanded the castle with additional floors, a tower, outbuildings, and a neo-Gothic chapel.

After the WWII, the house was auctioned off and fell into disrepair. But thankfully, it was purchased in 2001, and restored to its former glory. It opened up to the public as a bed and breakfast. But even if you’re not staying at the hotel, they also welcome day trippers into their antique-styled tea room. Here you can sample a French cup of tea and pastry or simply indulge in their homemade lavender ice cream. Sitting out on the terrace enjoying a refreshing drink is one of the best ways to soak in the scenery. Honestly, happening upon these amazing historical home turned into public properties is one of the reasons I love Provence so much. Where else can you just casually have tea inside a 16th-century castle?!

The Village of Valensole

While passing through the village of Valensole, it would be a shame not to explore the town itself. Leave your car where you parked at the hotel or head towards the parking lot marked on the map. Once you’ve parked the car, walk towards the town square. While Vanlensole might not be a huge city that draws many tourists, I love its quaintness. The square is centred around the old fountain, which dates back to 1734. The houses surrounding the square each bear those iconic colourful window shutters that feel so perfectly Provencal. Be sure to walk along Rue Dr. Maurice Chaupin, as these houses are some of the most charming in the region. 

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Producteur Miel Aux Fleurs De Lavande

In the town square, you’ll find a shop front selling Miel Aux Fleurs De Lavande or Lavender Honey. This shop has been making honey since 1948, and its quality is known all over the region. And made specifically from the lavender grown in the Valensole region. If you’ve never tried lavender honey before, you absolutely must buy some while you’re here. Lavender honey tastes almost just like regular honey but with a touch of floral notes. Lavender honey makes for one of the best souvenirs from Provence. And don’t worry about buying too much. Honey almost never spoils so you’ll be able to enjoy it for months to come.

Brasserie du Plateau

If you want to stop for lunch in town, head to the Brasserie du Plateau, where they have a lovely outdoor patio overlooking the valley. The prices are very reasonable, and it serves typical French food from local producers.

D8 – Route de Riez

As we head out of town, we change from the D6 onto the D8 roadway or the Route de Riez. Riez is one of the oldest towns in Provence, founded in the first century. If you are looking for places to visit after the Lavender Route, visiting Riez is worth a quick stop to see the four monolithic Roman granite columns sculpted during the 1st century A.D.

Lavender Fields along the Route de Riez

The fields along the Route de Riez are perhaps even more densely populated than the ones on the D6. While I’ve marked a few spots on the map that I know have small areas to pull over, there are so many more you’ll discover along the way! One of my favourite parts of the drive along the D8 is to study the fields of lavender placed right under the shadow of the Provence Alples.

Lavender Hut

As you come to the end of the D8 road, near where it exits onto D953, make a stop at the field marked, “Lavender Hut,” on the map. This spot is one of the most photographed fields in the area. In the center, this huge lavender field has an old brick hut surrounded by a wash of purple blooms. It is such a spectacular sight it barely feels real!

This brings us to the end of the tour around the lavender fields of Valensole. If you’re looking to explore the area further, consider visiting Moustiers-Sainte-Marie. Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is situated at the foothills of the Verdon Gorge and is renowned for its scenic beauty, historic charm, and traditional artisanal pottery. 

As you go home at the end of the day, see if you spot a lavender field as the sun sets across the valley. The mesmerizing panorama of the sunset casting a golden glow over the landscape is truly a once-in-a-lifetime sight to see! And the perfect way to end your day along the Lavender Route!

Touring the Valensole Lavender Route in Provence is an unforgettable experience that will captivate your senses. Allow yourself to be swept away by the magic of this idyllic region, and you’ll return home with a heart full of cherished memories. And lots of divine smelling souvenirs!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Exploring the Lavender Route in Provence: the Valensole Plateau first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

If you’re looking for someplace, that is more laid back and yet still will introduce your kids to the wonders of France, you should check out everything there is to see and do in Provence! There is truly nothing like experiencing the Provencal way of life with your kids, from wandering the outdoor market and sampling the freshest fruits and vegetables to exploring the ruins of an ancient castle that will bring history to life right before your eyes. There truly is something for everyone. And for those travellers who want to split their time between Paris and Provence, you can get a TGV train from Gard du Nord into Provence in less than 3 hours! 

So, don’t delay. And start dreaming of your perfect trip to Provence with your little explorers. Here are my favourite recommendations for the best activities for kids in Provence!

Table Of Contents

1. #1 Explore the Exciting Outdoor Markets
2. #2 Hike into the Ochre Quarries of Rousillon
3. #3 Discover the Ruins of the Château des Baux-de-Provence
4. #4 Take an Exciting E-bike Tour 
5. #5 Canoe Along the Pont du Gard
6. #6 Solve the Intrigue Dans la Ville
7. #7 Step Back in Time inside the Rocher Mistral
8. #9 Try out a Provencal Pastime
9. #10 Take a Workshop inside the Musée de la Lavande

#1 Explore the Exciting Outdoor Markets

One of the first outings I recommend doing with the kids upon arriving in Provence is hitting a local market. Preferably one near your home base. This is the best way to introduce the kids to exploring a new city before diving into a big touristy town. I always recommend going to one of the smaller markets over the busy ones in larger cities. While the Sunday Market in Isle-sure-la-Sorgue is amazing, it can be overwhelming with so many people. And the little ones are bound to get swallowed up by the big crowds. 

Interacting with the Locals

And don’t think the smaller markets are anything to look down on. Even the most humble market in Provence is a fantastic place for kids. Here they can learn, just by looking, about all the different kinds of Provencal produce. Foods are unique to this part of the country. 

And there will be a lot of opportunities for them to interact with the local vendors. In my experience, the vendors loved interacting with kids. They would come out from behind their booths and stalls to show off their produce. They would even slice into melons and give them apricots to try! I think the kids ate more samples than real meals throughout the trip! One of their favourite finds was a lovely woman who made freshly pressed apple juice from her nearby orchard. The kids adored her version of “special apple juice!“

And our kids really got a kick out of being in charge of the cash and doing all our transactions. They loved working out the math and studying the different coins and bills we would use in the market. In Canada, cash is also becoming almost obsolete, so that was a novelty all in itself.

Afterwards, Go for a Provencal Picnic

One way we got the kids engaged with a visit to the market was to help us pick up all the different elements for a little picnic. I created a scavenger hunt printout where the kids could mark off each element of the picnic as we went along until we had everything we needed for a beautiful Provencal spread! Included in our checklist were the following:

• Saucisson (cured sausage) 
• Baguettes
• Cheese
• Fruit (whatever was in season)
• Jam
• Juice
• Nuts
• And Olives (for the adults, of course)
• Chicken and Fries/Potatoes (almost all markets have rotisserie chicken cooked and ready to eat!)

Provence is chock-o-bloc with incredible picnicking options. And, of course, you can seek out those iconic viewpoints and vistas that make for the most picturesque picnic spots. But we often preferred whatever was close by to the markets. This meant we could eat up quickly as the kids were starving after salivating at the food in the market all morning. We often packed a small, foldable picnic blanket, but often we ended up in the park.

The parks in Provence were exceptional. The one in Saint-Remy has playscapes designed to look like owls, bats, and all different animals! And best of all, they had big tables for us to eat at. So the kids could run around and play after eating while the adults just lounged around and casually snacked on all the collections of goods we found that day.

#2 Hike into the Ochre Quarries of Rousillon

The city of Roussillon is nestled in the beautiful countryside of the Luberon. But this city really sets itself apart from the rest as it is surrounded by these remarkable ochre cliffs. These magnificent geological formations showcase vivid colours ranging from deep reds to vibrant yellows, creating a surreal and enchanting environment. One of the best ways to get up close to these amazing formations is by hiking along the “Sentier des Ocres,” the site of the former ochre quarries of Roussillon.

They call it a “hike,” but it’s much more of a leisurely walk. There are two routes, the short walk, which takes 35 minutes and the long walk, which takes around 50 minutes. There is an entry fee of 2.50€ per person to walk through the Sentier des Ocres, but you don’t need to make reservations in advance. The trail is open every day from February to December. As you walk along, stop with the kids and read the various interpretation boards you pass by. Each one explains the geological landscapes, how these unique formations were made, and how the quarries mined them for their rich materials.

After your short hike, you should head into the town. Picnics are prohibited along the trail, so a trip into town is a great place to grab something to eat. In addition, the little village is a charming and welcoming place. With houses painted the same ochre colours as the hillsides you just explored. After lunch, stroll through the vibrant alleys, where kids can discover unique artisan crafts and local products made with the clay they found in the quarries.

#3 Discover the Ruins of the Château des Baux-de-Provence

Perched atop a rocky outcrop in the Alpilles mountains, watching over Provence, are the great ruins of the Château des Baux-de-Provence. Entering this medieval fortress is like stepping into a world frozen in time. Your kids can run around this amazing 10th-century castle, sneak into the dungeons, explore the ancient castle chapel, walk around the crumbling Saracen Tower and learn about the old troglodyte houses.

From the ramparts, you can gaze out over the vast Provençal landscape, stretching as far as the eye can see. The panorama lets you take in the rolling hills, vineyards, olive groves, and quaint villages. Creating a breathtaking backdrop that adds to the castle’s allure. Because the castle is open to the air, lacking roped-off areas that you might expect in a normal museum, it feels like you are an explorer discovering these ruins. Instead of a load of placards, your admission includes an audio guide which gives you live commentary on the history of the Château. And more specific information about the Lords of Baux and what life would have looked like in the Middle Ages inside the castle.

Special Events & Activities

During the summer and holidays, the castle holds different special events for kids. This includes archery lessors, war machine demonstrations, a stonecutter workshop and even a working blacksmith. These special activities are included if you buy the activities admission ticket.

Throughout the year, there is also an Escape Game. This game teaches kids all about the history of Château des Baux-de-Provence while having fun! In teams of 2 to 6 people, you lead the investigation and explore the remains of the castle. You must discover the mysteries surrounding the last will and testament of the Princess of Les Baux. Kids solve a series of riddles and challenges to solve the mystery. Although they say, it’s age +12, with some adult help, even younger kids will be able to participate in the game! The game costs an addition €5 in addition to the entrance ticket.

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Hours and Admission

The Château des Baux is open every day, all year round. January, February, November, December: 10am-5pm | March, October: 9.30am-6pm | April, May, June, September: 9am-7pm | July and August: 9am-7.30pm
Admission: Adults €8 without special activities €10 with special activities | Seniors €7 without special activities €9 with special activities | Children (7-17 years old) €6 without special activities €8 with special activities | Free for children under the age of 7

#4 Take an Exciting E-bike Tour 

Now that we’ve settled into life in Provence, it’s time for a real adventure! One of the best ways to explore the stunning Provencal landscape is on a bike. There is nothing like being able to smell the countryside, stop easily on the side of the road to soak up a gorgeous view or just admire the changing scenery without being obscured behind car windows. But if you’re like me, you can’t imagine how people possibly have the strength to bike up those steep hills to reach those picturesque perched villages. Well, the answer is an e-bike. 

What is an E-bike?

An e-bike, short for electric bike, is a bicycle that is equipped with an electric motor. It combines traditional pedal power with this motor to provide varying levels of assistance, depending on the rider’s preference. Whenever you feel like you need it, you can turn up and down the motor to assist with propulsion. There was no better feeling when the hill would start to get steep than the feeling of the motor kicking and your bike simply soaring like it was nothing up the steep hills.

Renting e-Bike in Provence

We knew the kids would love this activity, and happily, we found a company that could accommodate the kids. Sun-E-Bike, at their location in Bonnieux, set us up with a bike trailer for the 6-year-old. The trailer was so roomy, and we referred to it as his personal Provencal chariot.

The older 8-year-old is really tall for his age, so he was above the weight limit for the child trailer. Thankfully, even though I hadn’t considered this, they quickly sorted us out with a tandem bike he could ride with his dad. Riding the tandem bike was great since the kid didn’t have to do any work. But he got to experience the entire trip just like the rest of us! If your child is going to ride tandem, even if they don’t need to make much of an effort, they must know how to ride a bike. That way, they feel comfortable peddling and keeping their balance on the back of the bike. The kids had a BLAST on the ride! The little one who rode in the trailer brought his colouring books and wasn’t bored every minute.

Going with a Guide

We also booked a guide for the day (or an accompanist, as listed on their site), who was one of the best parts of the experience. Having her lead us, we didn’t need to worry about using a map or ensuring we were on the right road. Instead, we just followed behind her like a flock of sheep.

We rode an astonishing 37km without breaking a sweat! Passing through all different small hilltowns and perched villages. The kids would scream in excitement as we saw various animals on the side of the road. And they enjoyed spotting the colourful flowers in bloom as we went. We even found a roadside cherry grove and snacked on fresh cherries plucked right from the tree! We stopped at a boulangerie to pick up sandwiches and drinks and picnicked under the plane trees. Definitely make reservations in advance. We had already done so, but when we showed up, I saw a few people get turned away who didn’t.

#5 Canoe Along the Pont du Gard

The Pont du Gard is a remarkable ancient Roman aqueduct located near the city of Nîmes. It is considered one of the most well-preserved and impressive examples of Roman engineering and architecture anywhere in the world. The Pont du Gard was crucial in providing fresh water to Nîmes during the Roman period. It remained in use for centuries until the fall of the Roman Empire. Over time, the aqueduct system fell into disrepair, but the Pont itself survived relatively intact. 

Introducing kids to these Roman sights is a fantastic way of making history come alive. This structure is unchanged from when it was first built, and it really makes you feel like you’ve gone back in time without a trace of the modern world around you.

Renting a Canoe along the Gardon River

And while visiting the historic site and the nearby museum is a great option for the kids, an even better way to explore the Pont du Gard is along the water. We rented canoes from Canoe Collias, just 15 minutes from the Pont du Gard historic site. You can park your car in their parking lot, where you pick up your rental canoes. 

Although called “canoes,” the boats were more like a cross between a canoe and a kayak. They were sturdy, made of heavy plastic, and used double-sided ores to paddle along the river. After signing your rental agreement, a member of the Collias crew will help sit you and the kids for lifejackets and give you a very short crash course on how to paddle down the river. If someone in your group has some experience in canoeing, this will be a big plus since most of us were newbies and probably could have used a little more guidance. But luckily, my dad knew what he was doing, so with a few lessons from him, we were quickly on our way. The kids sat in a three-person canoe, primarily controlled by their dad at the back. The rest of us sat in two-person canoes. 

Courses along the Gardon River

We opted for the 8km Pont du Gard course. This was rated as a beginner course which takes about two hours to complete without stopping. The journey took us 2-hours, but that was going at a pretty fast pace. We arrived at the end of the day and needed to hustle to ensure we arrived at the pickup spot by 5pm, their last pickup of the day. I would advise leaving yourself 3 hours or more for your journey. This way, you can take ample breaks along the way. 

You canoe down the Gardon River, passing through the massive Gorges Des Gardon. This canyon was carved out by the river Gardon, and this spectacular landscape is one of France’s most impressive geological sites. From the start of the course, you will canoe for about an hour and a half before passing right underneath the enormous three-tiered Pont du Gard. After passing under the Pont du Gard, you continue for about 30 additional minutes, where you will spot the endpoint. From here, you are met by a member of the Collins crew who drives you back to your car. This was a huge plus, as you don’t need to worry about paddling back.

Picnic on the Gardon

Each canoe is paired with a watertight barrel to place your belongings inside. If you plan in advance, you can aim to bring some picnic food and supplies. That way, when you arrive at the stunning Pont du Gard viewpoint, you can simply pull your canoe over to the side of the river and stop for lunch. There is also a small beach where you can swim if the weather is warm enough! A great way to cool down. Just be sure your canoe doesn’t float away…

The kids could do their fair share of paddling, but their favourite part of the experience was just being on the water. They loved spotting the different flora and fauna we came across. There were grey herons, eagles flying overhead, beavers nibbling wood offshore and lots of perch and pike swimming under our feet. And although our arms were certainly tired at the end of the journey, it had all been worth it for our amazing experiences along the way. Be SURE to wear lots of sunscreen and large-brimmed hats to keep the sun off. Bring lots of water and pack some towels in the watertight barrel to dry off if you get wet.

Prices & Info

Location: 194 Chemin St Privat | 30210 Collias (with Private parking, Toilettes and changing rooms)
Prices: 25€/Adult | 19€/Young Adults from 13 to 17 years old | 13€/children from 6 to 12 years

#6 Solve the Intrigue Dans la Ville

My nephews love a good scavenger hunt! They are obsessed with solving riddles and figuring out context clues. So when I came across Intrigue Dans la Ville, I couldn’t believe such a perfect thing existed in Provence. “Intrigue dans la ville” is a game designed for families that offer entertaining and educational puzzles set within various Provencal villages. Your mission, should you choose to accept it, revolves around a fictional historical crime in the village. You receive a suspects pack with beautifully illustrated pictures of the people suspected of the crime. You must explore a town to crack the mystery and solve the various game puzzles. Hidden in plain sight are clues. And throughout the game, you will learn more about the town’s history. As you unravel the game’s various enigmas. 

Where can you Buy Intrigue de Ville?

You can pick up the game package for Intrigue de Ville at the Tourist Information Centre in whichever village you choose to explore. There are over 22 destinations across Provence where you can find unique puzzles. Each with its own storyline and investigation unique to the specific city. Right now, only two spots offer an English version of the game; Vaison-La-Romaine and Avignon. You can check their website to find the participating villages’ list. 

The game cost €12, but I would have paid twice as much! This wasn’t some cheap printed PDF. The game came in an adorable cloth pouch and contained a detective booklet, an illustrated set of suspect cards, a historical town map, a personalized pencil, and a letter introducing the mission to the players. The additional contents of each game are different depending on where you play. In one town, we received a mirror required to solve different puzzles. And your kids even get a little button that designates them as investigators!

You can take the game at your own pace, but we found that with breaks for food and exploring, we spent about 3 hours playing. Once you complete the game, you discover the guilty suspect. And reveal a three-digit code. You then return to the tourist office and open a safe using the 3-digit code to see if you captured the correct suspect. If you solve it correctly, your kids will get a certificate as a souvenir! If the tourist office is closed when you are finished, you can always punch in the code online to see if you got the right answer.

Do You Need to be able to Read French to Play?

As mentioned above, the game is currently only available in English in two cities in Provence. The rest of the cities only have French versions available. We did two different investigations, one in Saint-Remy and one in Merindol. Both my brother and I took French immersion in school, but it’s been ages since we read French daily. So while we knew how to read some French, we mainly used Google Translate‘s Google Lens function to translate the live text. This worked absolutely perfectly! Albeit, maybe it took us a bit more time than if we had an English version.

If you happen to be in a town where they only have the French version, don’t let that put you off. If you have mobile data, you can definitely get by using Google Translate. But if you want to do the English version, that just gives you more direction of where to visit. If you have kids aged +6, this is an absolute must!

#7 Step Back in Time inside the Rocher Mistral

One of the most exciting and undiscovered things you can do with your kids is to take them to the Rocher Mistral. When I first found a brochure on this park, I was a bit skeptical. I hadn’t heard anything about it anywhere online and had been doing extensive research. Turns out, deep in the heart of Provence, is a historical park specifically for kids! 

Rocher Mistral is located inside the thousand-year-old castle of La Barben. The ancient castle was only open for adult, historical guided tours for years. But in 2021, the castle was transformed into a children’s theme park where your kids can journey through time! One of the reasons I think this park is less popular with tourists is because the park is primarily geared towards French speakers. But for English-speaking customers, you can pick up specific flyers at the entrance to the park with all the information and maps in English! Each of the shows also has a sign in front explaining the story.

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New for 2023, there are audio guides available in English and German on request! And even without understanding the language, the action speaks for itself for the most part. I would just avoid the Puppet show or Theatrical Stage Shows, are these are primarily speaking performances. Stick with the immersive experiences, stunt shows and exploration throughout the castle grounds.

There are three different kinds of admission tickets you can purchase. You can buy a ticket for a day visit or the nighttime show. There are also combination tickets that allow you to experience an entire day’s worth of activities.

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The Shows 

During the day, you can experience ancient revolts and booming cannon fire. From exhilarating stunt shows and sword fights to comedic performances and mesmerizing dance routines. The castle is an incredible hub of amusement!

As twilight descends upon the castle of La Barben, a magical hour dawns. Their 2023 immersive light show plunges you into a Napoleonic epic. At dusk, at the foot of the castle in the magnificent French-style gardens, stories and figures of the past come to life! The set design, sound and lighting effects are almost on par with Disneyland-like experiences.

Each performance or walkthrough is about 20 minutes long. Actors tell the stories of the castle and of Provence through these performances. All the actors speak French, but there are English cards outside the attractions that give you an overview of the performance you’ll see.

You can also tour various historical parts of the castle, including the castle apartments, the chapel and the old kitchen. Here you’ll find original artifacts, furniture and decor in the family for over 500 years!

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What is there to Eat?

For those wanting to spend the day at the castle, they allow you to bring in your own food. But there is also a restaurant inside called the Auberge Daudet (reservations recommended) and a more casual marketplace called La Guinguette de Marius, where you can find many kid-friendly meals. The food is excellent quality and very reasonably priced.

There is also an adorable Provencal market selling products from local craftsmen in the marketplace. These producers are heirs to centuries-old know-how! There is also a small traditional French carousel which kids can ride for free. If you have some downtime, there is also a boules field where kids can try their hand at this Provencal game.

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Hours & Admission

Location: Chemin de la Baou, La Barben, France
Hours: Open April-November. Check their website for the most up-to-date schedule of events. Close through the week during the off-season.

Admission: Day Ticket: Adults 25€ (advance purchase) / 28€ | Children 6-12 19€ (advance purchase) / 22€ | Children under 5 are FREE | Night Ticket: Adults 19€ (advance purchase) / 22€ | Children 6-12 15€ (advance purchase) / 18€ | Children under 5 are FREE | Day + Night Ticket: Adults 36€ (advance purchase) / 39€ | Children 6-12 26€ (advance purchase) / 29€ | Children under 5 are FREE

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#9 Try out a Provencal Pastime

Pétanque, also known as boules, is probably the sport that Provence is best known for. In North America, we call it bocce. But this game is more leisurely and languid than exhausting. In every town, even the smallest village, you’ll find the Boulodrome. The boulodrome is a large, flat, sandy or gravelly area, usually under shady trees. It’s here where locals gather to play their daily round of boules. The game is fairly simple, making it perfect for kids to learn and play!

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How to Play Boules

The game can be played one-on-one (called “tête-à-tête”), in teams of two players each (known as “doublets”), or in teams of three players each (called “triplets”). The game begins when a player from one team throws “the jack” (a smaller ball, usually in a different colour) to a desired location in the playing area. The aim of the game is to get your large metal balls (the boules) closest to the jack to score points. The same player who threw the jack throws their first metal ball. Attempting to get it as close to the jack as possible. The opposing team member then tries to throw their ball closer to the jack or to knock the opponent’s ball away.

The game continues with alternating throws between the teams until all the balls have been thrown. Points are awarded to the team with the ball closest to the jack. In some game variations, additional points can be scored for each ball of the same team closer to the jack than any of the opponent’s balls.

Where to Play Boules

If you’re staying in a holiday rental home, be sure to ask in advance if they have a boules or a Petanque set in the house that you can borrow throughout your stay. Some tourist offices also rent them out in larger cities. But if you head down to the local Boulodrome, you might also find that locals will happily invite you to play along with them, which is great fun! This kind of game can easily be played without a shared language. And it’s a fantastic way to meet your neighbours.

If you’d prefer to make a day of it, there are some great guided experiences around Provence where you can play boules with a professional! You will not only play the game but also learn all about the sport’s history and how to become a master of the sport! Food and drink (pastis for the adults) are served alongside the game, and a commemorative trophy will be offered to the winning team. It’s a great way to really get immersed into Provencal recreation.

#10 Take a Workshop inside the Musée de la Lavande

There is no more iconic flower (and scent) that links your travel memories to Provence more than lavender. Deep in the heart of the lavender country, you’ll find the Musée de la Lavande. This museum offers visitors a captivating journey into the history of lavender, its cultivation, and its various uses over the years. It also houses a small exhibition space that showcases lavender’s cultural significance in Provence. From the minute you arrive at the museum, you’ll be swallowed up by the soothing scent of lavender. Visiting the museum during the summertime is also a great way to give your kids the opportunity to get up close to this brilliant plant!

Lavender Workshops

And while adults might love the museum, some kids might be slightly less enthused. But, recently, the museum has introduced workshops for kids to help them get hands-on with using and understanding the power of lavender. All workshops require general admission into the museum, although kids under 10 are FREE.

The most accessible program for all ages is their personalized lavender sachet workshop. This activity is so much fun. Each child gets to choose their own fabric wrapping to create their sachet. Then they can create a personalized mix of aromatic herbs to fill the sachet. Of course, lavender is the star scent, but they can mix in others like mint, rosemary, thyme and basil. These are great for kids of all ages but more suited to younger children.

But what I was most excited about was the Lavender Scented watercolour workshop! The museum has its own watercolours that have been infused with lavender perfume! These were created exclusively by the Conservatoire des Ocres de Roussillon. You can spend up to an hour painting, and an artist is on hand to guide you through the process. Painting and artistry have such a strong connection to Provence, and being able to paint scented with the very essence of Provence is a truly magical experience.

Hours and Admission

The Museum is Open every day | Museum Admission: Adults €8 | Students €7 | Seniors €7 | Children & Young Adults (11-16 years-old) | Children under 10 are FREE

Watercolour Workshops: Tuesdays and Sundays from April to May and July to September Price: Additional €3 | Lavender Sachets Workshop: Every day except Friday, July to August Price: Additional €4

Travelling the world with kids opens their eyes to so many different experiences. But it also creates a world of new adventures for yourself as well! My travels around Provence were absolutely enhanced by going with the kids. Teaching the kids about French culture and traditions brought me so much joy. And it made my heart soar to see them becoming curious adventurers who can step out of their comfort zone, try new foods, learn new languages (or at least a few words) and create last memories to look back on for years.

Let me know if you’re planning a trip to Provence with your kids and any questions you might have!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The 10 Best Activities for Kids in Provence, the Ultimate Guide for Little Explorers first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

And even without traditional “kids menus,” we always found something the kids would happily eat. After all, there is never a shortage of bread in France! And as a last resort, this always did the trick. For anyone on the fence, make the jump! Go ahead and enjoy a decadent vacation in Provence with the whole family! But use some of my tips and advice below to ensure you are fully prepared for dining out with kids in Provence.

Table Of Contents

1. The French Mealtime Schedule
2. How to Read French Menus?
3. Where to Eat?
4. Menu Enfant
   • Be Polite and Ask Questions
5. How to Keep Them Entertained?
   • Bring Entertainment
   • Colouring Books
6. Always Opt to Sit Outside
7. What to Order For Each Meal?
   • Kids Breakfast
   • Kids Lunch
   • Kids Dinner
8. A Note About High Chairs
   • Happy Travels, Adventurers

The French Mealtime Schedule

The French have a completely different eating schedule than those of us in North America are used to. Eating dinner at 6 pm is absolutely unheard of. Most restaurants don’t even open until 7:30 or 8 pm. Lunchtime is less of an issue, but even cafes will close in the afternoon while they prepare for the dinner service.

To ensure you don’t have any grumpy kids on your hands while waiting for a late dinner reservation, be prepared with lots of snacks. By dolling these out throughout the day, we found that our six and eight-year-olds could easily make it to a later dinner reservation. Plus, I loved shopping for unique snacks in French grocery stores. It was so cool to see the unique options they had for sale. And often, we found many alternatives to the ones we had back home. But if you have really fussy eaters who might need something familiar, it’s always a good idea to bring some snacks from home, just in case.

Our favourite snacks were honestly the fresh fruit we bought from the markets. They loved chowing down on melon any time of the day. And strawberries, apricots, blueberries, and cherries were the perfect on-the-go treat. We also would carry around some croissants that were perfect for bigger appetites. And those tiny Hairbo packets (whose factory is actually in Provence) we found in almost every little grocery store were ideal treats for well-behaved kids.

How to Read French Menus?

The hurdle you might face when arriving at the restaurant is the menu. In Provence, especially in smaller, less touristy villages, the menu will more than likely be entirely in French. And sometimes even handwritten on a chalkboard. But don’t let this worry you! Just come prepared! While this would have been a much bigger problem years ago, thanks to apps like Google Translate, you can translate the menu right on your phone! 

Using the Google Translate Google Lens function, you can take a picture of the menu, even if it is handwritten, and the app will translate it into your desired language. Ensure you have downloaded the app on your phone and are connected to Wi-Fi or have mobile data. This will ensure you know what you’re ordering for the kids.

Where to Eat?

One of the best parts of eating in Provence is that there is no shortage of cafes, bistros and brasseries. There are generally informal restaurants with laid-back, traditional French menus. Bistros generally have a slightly smaller, more home-style menu. But both feature lots of kid-friendly options. 

French menus are often very small. So there isn’t a huge selection in which to pick from. Local restaurants stick to local ingredients that change monthly (if not weekly), so don’t expect a chance of getting chicken fingers and fries. But the joy of eating out in France is that typical French cuisine is fairly simple. In it’s purest form, you have cooked meat served with vegetables, often with a side of frites (fries) or potatoes. But we also found that at these bistros, the menu often had hamburgers, pasta and sandwiches too.

Menu Enfant

Another surprise was that more than half the restaurants we ate at, even the more upscale ones, had a tiny little section at the bottom of the menu called “Menu Enfant.” Aka, the Kids Menu. Or sometimes you’ll see it called “Pour le petit choux,” French slang for “for the little ‘uns.” But once again, don’t always expect chicken fingers or mac n’ cheese. In France, kids’ menus are generally smaller portions of the same foods as the normal menu. Albeit sometimes without adding those fancy sauces that kids might want to avoid. Typical items on the kid’s menu were roast chicken and fries, breaded meat and potatoes, bavette de boeuf (mini-steak and fries), and we even ordered mussels off the kid’s menu once! And yes, we frequently even saw hamburgers and fries on the menu more than a few times.

While we generally stuck with more casual establishments, we ate out a few times in some more upscale restaurants. At one which didn’t have an official kid’s menu, the waiter even offered to make our little one a custom kid’s meal! Without us even having to ask. The chef whipped up some roast potatoes covered in cheese and bacon. Our kids loved it. And we felt so taken care of. This was a take on the traditional gratin Dauphinois, so whether they knew it or not, the kids enjoyed some traditional French cuisine! When we looked around, we saw that the family beside us, who were clearly all locals, were eating the same thing with their kids. So evidently, this wasn’t their first time making an accommodation for the little ones.

Be Polite and Ask Questions

If you don’t see anything on the menu or the waiter doesn’t offer, I learned it’s always worth being polite and asking. Don’t ever expect anything, but they often can take something from their regular menu and simplify it for a kid’s less refined palette. I learned that the kids were almost always happy eating wherever we went. And we never had to alter our plans to find a Mcdonald’s. We got to eat at all the gourmet restaurants we had our hearts set on. But we were sure also to fit a few nights of takeout pizza in to give them (and us) a little break! But I think the kids really got a huge confidence boost out of being able to eat out so often with everyone else. They were like mini-adults. And so very European.

How to Keep Them Entertained?

Dinner, and even lunches, in France, are long, languid affairs. Service is slow, but it’s meant to be. The French, especially those in Provence, consider a meal a chance to relax. They want to enjoy their food as well as the company sitting with them. Don’t be annoyed if you feel like the waiter isn’t coming around as much as they “should.” They aren’t ignoring you or singling you out. If you’re used to the rushy-rushy service in North America, this will take some getting used to.  But the kids might have difficulty sitting still for that long. We saw lots of French parents taking their kids out for a talk. Or would simply let them play outside if the restaurant had a little terrace. 

Bring Entertainment

But by far, the best thing we did was invest in minature games the kids could play at the table. Our kids are obsessed with these Kanoodle solitaire games. They are perfectly pocket-sized, so they don’t take up too much room, and it kept them entertained for hours. I saw a few French families with their kids who were playing Nintendo Switch. And while we didn’t have one ourselves, I’m sure this is also a good way to keep them occupied. Just keep the volume off for those around you.

Colouring Books

For younger kids, we found that colouring books were the perfect thing to bring. They don’t take up too much space, and we saw many other French parents doing the same thing. If you’re looking for a Provencal twist, the Van Gogh Museum has created a series of FREE colouring pages of famous Vincent van Gogh masterpieces. Simply download and print, and start colouring! We loved these, and it was so fun to say, “We saw these trees on your walk today,” when they were colouring in Van Gogh’s famous Cypress trees. And the older kid enjoyed referencing the real artwork to see if he could recreate the same colours in his drawings.

Always Opt to Sit Outside

Many restaurants in Provence only offer outdoor seating. And we found this was a wonderful plus. If we ever had the option, we always picked the tables outside. When the kids were loud, it wasn’t nearly as noticeable amongst the clatter of the urban landscape around us. And the kids had many distractions to watch, including a never-ending succession of birds they loved to feed!

Sitting outside also meant getting up and walking around was easy and not very noticeable. The kids and I could run around on the quiet side streets, explore nearby fountains, and sometimes even discover a little kids’ playground not too far away from the table. These mini-outings were the perfect way to burn up their energy between courses. And by the time we returned, my wine glass was full, and dessert had arrived!

What to Order For Each Meal?

Kids Breakfast

Breakfast was the easiest meal of the day. We loved walking with the kids down to our local boulangerie (bakery.) Here, they could pick their favourite sweet (or savoury) baked treats. From croissants to brioche, pain aux chocolate and more, there were always many things they were more than willing to eat. We mainly ate breakfast back at the house. And kept a nice supply of jam and Nutella in the fridge to liven up morning slices of fresh bread. The kids gobbled up all the fruit we put down in front of them. And they especially loved seeing the fresh fruit they had bought from the market on the table. Like it was their personal orchard harvest.

Kids Lunch

Lunchtime is another very accessible meal for the kids. We generally got lunch as a takeaway meals (à emporter). This way, we could eat whenever and wherever we wanted. Frequently in the beautiful parks or squares, we found all over Provence. There is never a shortage of boulangeries selling croque monsieurs (essentially grilled cheese) or baguette sandwiches with all different fillings. Fromage et Jambon (cheese and prosciutto) was a big favourite of our crew. 

While not exclusive to Provence, crêpes are a beloved French treat you’ll find all across France. Whether filled with sweet ingredients like Nutella, fresh fruit, and caramel or savoury fillings like ham and cheese, crêpes are a versatile and delicious option that almost all kids will likely enjoy. For the pickiest eaters, you can order them a plain crepe with butter! Still super delicious.

Kids Dinner

For dinners, steak frites are a common dish loved by our big eaters. Roast chicken and pork chops were other simple dishes we frequently saw on the menu. And these always pleased the kids. Pizza is also surprisingly popular in France. Our small town had not one, but TWO pizzerias! And there were fewer than ten restaurants in the entire town! We found lots of menus also featured pasta which was generally a hit with the kids. When all else failed, a plate of frites or roast potatoes filled them up. And we’d supplement the lack of veggies with those portable squeeze pouches that come in all different flavours. And yes, they even have those in France!

A Note About High Chairs

A good tip to remember for the really little ones is that most restaurants in France, and Provence, do not have high chairs. And many restaurants are pretty cramped. So bringing your large stroller inside might be out of the question. Be prepared to keep your baby on your lap or ask for a seat outside where you can park your stroller. 

With all these tips, I hope you feel more confident in bringing your kids to Provence. While it does take a little bit more effort and energy to plan around their appetites, the memories you will get from the experience are unmatched. And I know that our kids had the time of their lives, and the food was one of the most impactful parts of the trip!

Let me know in the comments if you have any questions about bringing your kids to Provence, and I’ll do my best to answer! If you are interested in activities with your kids in Provence, check out my Ultimate Kid’s Provence Guide!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Best Tips for Dining with Kids in Provence, Amazing Family-Friendly Feasting first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.