When I arrived, I was overjoyed to see rich boughs of Christmas greenery hanging outside the hotel’s doors. Dotted with bright red and gold ornaments. My trip to Paris was planned entirely around visiting the Parisian Christmas Markets and soaking in some holiday magic. I was delighted to be greeted with these decorations from the moment I arrived at the Hôtel Les Deux Gares. When I entered the lobby, they were in the process of getting their delivery of Christmas trees. And before I left that morning, two were already set up outside the front doot! A treat I got to enjoy throughout the rest of my stay.

From the stunning patterns, delicate decor touches and kind staff, staying at this hotel was truly one of the best parts of my trip. And I knew I had to share this wonderous place with all of you!

Location

The Hôtel Les Deux Gares is located between the Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est in Paris’ northern corner. This location set between two huge transit hubs makes it the ideal location for travellers. Transit around the city from this location was a breeze. Although the area isn’t the most popular with tourists, I found the trade-off of quick access to the station in the morning well worth it. 

10th Arrondissement

The neighbourhood around the hotel is called the 10th Arrondissement. An “arrondissement” is the French term for the various districts that make up a city as large as Paris. While the 10th doesn’t make any lists of the “best neighbourhoods in Paris,” it’s one of the multicultural neighbourhoods where you can find actual Parisians living and working. It is not just a touristy microcosm. But a bustling district also dubbed “Little India,” where delicious curry shops can be found. While it might not be home to top-tier attractions, some true hidden gems are located less than 10 minutes from the hotel door. For more about the neighbourhood, continue reading below.

Rooms

Every single one of the rooms inside the hotel is a colourful and rich tapestry of patterns and textiles. And stepping into your room is a wonderful surprise to see which design style will be your own throughout your stay. One of my favourite things about the Hôtel Les Deux Gares as a solo traveller is their single room pricing. As one person, you often end up having to book a room meant for two and paying the same as a couple. But here, they have Single Rooms (approx. €170/night) that still feature a large queen or king bed. You save about 10-20 euros a night. While that’s not a fortune, it does cover the cost of a decent meal in Paris, and any savings is A-OK by me!

Single Room

My room was decorated in pink, green and pale blue art deco patterned wallpaper. Accented with the most fabulous yellow pops of colour throughout. It honestly just made me smile to walk into my room. I usually spend so much of my time when travelling outside my hotel room. But here I found myself missing my bedroom when I was away. I even made a point to bring home a takeout dinner one night just so I could enjoy my time inside the room!

The bed linen was plush, and the pillows were super soft. I love having a bath, so I was slightly sad to find the single rooms only come with a shower option. But the shower was so pretty, I didn’t even mind. There were plenty of toiletries provided, which was great as I had left all mine behind. As a Canadian, the heated towel rack is always a little treat to find as those aren’t standard in North America.

The View

My room was located on the second floor facing the train station right beside a busy footpath. I am SUPER sensitive to noise. So I was SURE I was going to be bothered by that proximity. But, to my surprise, I never heard a peep. They’ve really outdone themselves on sound insulation, to be sure. 

But in terms of a view, I was disappointed. Don’t get me wrong, I love having a good view of the train station, that’s not my complaint. I didn’t expect an Eiffel Tower view or anything like that. But behind almost level with the outdoor footpath, I didn’t feel comfortable leaving the curtains open. So I kept them closed and missed out on admiring the view. I wouldn’t have been as bothered if I had been on a higher level. I love people-watching and transporting, so when it was quieter at night, I would sneak a peak now and then. But when you feel the people outside are close enough to walk into your living room, that’s a little too much for me. I did appreciate that the windows opened up to a small Juliet balcony which would have been great had I come during the Spring or Summer.

Standard | Superior | Suites | Family Rooms

In addition to the single rooms, they, of course, also have Standard (approx. €179/night) and Superior (approx. €224/night) rooms. The difference between the two being the Superior room guarantees a king-size bed and has a slightly larger footprint. There are also Suites (approx. €305/night) which provide space for four people with a bed and pull out sofa. The Family Rooms (approx. €359/night), which are adjoining spaces with two beds and a pull-out sofa, fit up to six people. So if you’re travelling with a large family, this is a great option! Because the hotel is on the smaller side, and for obvious reasons is very popular, it’s best to book your rooms as far in advance as possible.

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Design

Aside from a convenient location, what many people really come here for is the aesthetics. It truly feels like stepping into a Wes Anderson movie set. The English interior designer, Luke Edward Hall, oversaw the hotel’s design. Hall was inspired by the Art Deco period and combined those styles with almost neon-hued colours. Parisian architecture can be rather austere, with minimal colour. So walking inside this hotel, you are overwhelmed with the vibrancy met indoors. The hotel opened after the Covid pandemic, and the bright colours almost feel like a response to the pandemic. As they make you feel alive and excited to be travelling again.

The lively decor makes even the small rooms an absolute treasure box. It emulates Hall’s idea of walking into an eccentric Parisian’s bohemian apartment. The blend of patterns, textiles and auction items feels like a lovingly curated personal collection. Like staying with your cooky aunt who moonlights as an artist and teaches yoga.

Breakfast

Without a doubt, the lobby and breakfast nook area is the most fantastically decorated parts of the hotel. And it is here that you can join the small collection of guests for breakfast every morning. Breakfast is served from 7:15 am to 10:15 am, so whether you’re an early bird or late riser, you can start your day off right. The breakfast costs 18 euros unless you purchased a room package that included it with your stay. While pricey and something I usually skip, it feels pretty standard in terms of hotel breakfast pricing these days. But truthfully, I would just hit up patisseries instead if they’re open.

Café Les Deux Gares

Because the area is a bit lacking in terms of authentic French cafes, the hotel has opened its own Café Les Deux Gares just across the street. Like any good French bistro, the menu is handwritten on the chalkboard daily to feature fresh, local and seasonal dishes. Entrees range from €12-15 and main plates are about €25-€35. They also have a great wine list if you want to come here simply for a nightcap and enjoy the gorgeous ambiance.

The highlight of this cafe is the over-the-top trompe l’oeil tortoiseshell ceiling made by artist Pauline Leyravaud. Pair this with the marble-topped tables, antique wooden chairs and delicate upholstery, and you’ve got one of the most gorgeous interiors in the 10th Arrondissement.

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Fitness Room and Sauna

I’m not one to go to the gym, even back at home, but even I was tempted to do something in the fitness room because of how darn adorable the wallpaper was down here. While I skipped the non-urge to go for a run, I did partake in the sauna. Since winter travelling can get pretty chilly, there is nothing better to get those bones warmed up than a nice hot sauna. This is just one example of those little amenities that make a big difference. Despite visiting on a busy Christmas weekend, the hotel was quiet, and I never had an issue with space in the sauna.

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A Note about the Neighbourhood

For transparency’s sake, I am outlining a few details about the area around the hotel that some of the more prominent online outlets have failed to mention. Many of these reviews were done by writers who perhaps didn’t stay the night but instead came, checked out the interior and left. 

I’ve read a few reviews from sites like TripAdvisor that detail how guests felt the area was dingy, without many restaurants, and there are groups of men hanging around 24/7. Firstly, the area never felt dingy to me; it was just Paris. Which I know to some people, is often defined as being “dirty and smelly.” But the 10th Arrondissement is no better or worse for this than other busy areas of Paris. While it’s definitely not the nicest or most picturesque, you get what you’d expect from any city around the central train station. 

The idea that there is a lack of restaurants in the area is just incorrect. Perhaps these reviewers meant there is a lack of restaurants they deem “familiar,” as many of the popular spots around here are Indian curry houses or Bangladeshi bars. Not wall-to-wall chic Parisian cafes and bistros. But as mentioned above, the hotel-owned restaurant across the street quickly fills that void if that’s solely what you’re looking for. 

Safety

In terms of there being men in the area 24/7, that part is true. Even late at night, you’d find large groups of men standing outside on the streets. I was there as a solo female traveller, and although I noticed this, I never felt uncomfortable. Lots of these people were clearly cab drivers waiting or on break. Or just locals out and about. Just be aware and stay vigilant, but I never felt unsafe. It’s very similar to areas around East London. If you feel concerned, avoid walking around here late at night. Which is easily avoided by taking an uber to the hotel.

Generally, I advise avoiding the area north of the station to steer clear of the more “dangerous” areas. The southern part of the 10th borders the 3rd Arrondissement, which is one of the poshest parts of the city.

Personally, I found areas around Sacre Coeur where there are tons of tourists much more “dangerous” as there are plenty of pickpockets or people out to scam you. So while some neighbourhoods look more dangerous, the busy tourist hubs actually have the most crime against tourists. So take all that to heart when choosing your Parisian destination.

Additional Points of Interest

While the 10th Arrondissement isn’t home to the Louvre or the Eiffel Tower, there are some real gems to be found in this neck of the woods that you’d never otherwise make the time to come and see. But being in the neighbourhood, you’re gifted with them at your front door.

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Marché Saint-Quentin

One of my favourite things to do in Paris is EAT. Obviously. And in my opinion, some of the best food in the city is found in the marketplace. The Marche Saint-Quentin is located just five minutes down the street from the hotel. This gorgeous market was built in the 19th century and features beautiful wrought-iron beams and large glass windows. The market is home to some incredible butchers, an amazing cheesemonger, fruit vendors and, my favourite, a gorgeous florist. If you’ve been reading the blog for years, you’ll know I love to buy a fresh bouquet of flowers. It’s one of the first things I do when I arrive in a new city. To add some scent and sparkle to my hotel room.

Canal Saint Martin

Just 10 minutes east of the hotel, you can wander over to the Canal Saint Martin. This peaceful canal is now a hipster hotspot. The perfect spot for walking with a good cup of coffee in the morning. The wrought-iron bridges set against iconic Parisian architecture makes for some of the most beautiful viewing spots. And you’ll be surprised to find that here you have the city almost all to yourself. Which in Paris is a rarity.

Maison Bayat

Speaking of coffee! I’m an early bird; I’m frequently awake as early as 7 am when travelling as I’m just too excited to sleep in. But Paris, like many other European cities, awakens pretty late. Thankfully for me, Maison Bayat was just 5 minutes west of the hotel. While you might be searching for “coffee” in Paris, it’s best to look for a Patisserie. Here you’ll find the best of the best Parisian pastries to start your morning off right!B ut they also sell delicious coffee to go or to sit while dining inside. 

Bouillon Chartier Gare de l’Est

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat that’s cheap, fast and beautiful, you need to check out Bouillon Chartier Gare de l’Est. Bouillon Chartier is a chain of brasseries in Paris that focus on simple dining with an authentic Parisian menu. Best of all, they’re located inside the most incredible historic interiors. 

While some might complain the food quality is not always the most stellar, personally, it is reliable if you know what to order. The entrees are always my favourite. A great place to try escargot, oeuf du mayonnaise, terrine (incredible), an avocado shrimp cocktail, or a simple rosette of Lyon. Avoid the Boeuf Bougineon (it’s pretty bland), but if you want to order a full meal, try the roast chicken and fries. At less than 10 euroes its super juiucy and deliciuos. I ALWAYS recommend the chestnut puree with whipped cream for dessert. Especially in the wintertime. Chestnut puree is a french staple and a unique choice you won’t find anywhere else.

Jardin Villemin

For a relaxing escape from the stone facades, you are just a few minutes away from the Jardin Villemin. The garden was created in 1977 on the site of the former Villemin military hospital, which closed in 1968. It was named after the famous doctor Jean-Antoine Villemin. The original hospital was built to treat the wounded returning from WWI and WWII. The original stone entrance to the military hospital can be found along the rue des Récollets, which now serves as an entry into the park.

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Passage Brady

19th-century covered arcades are one of the hidden treasures of Paris. These are called “Passages couverts,” and during the 1800s, there were over 130 of them found throughout the city. But after Haussmann renovated Paris in 1853, many disappeared, leaving only a few dozen original arcades throughout the city. So it’s special to find one only a few doors down in the 10th Arrondissement. Today Passage Brady still retains the original iron and glass-covered ceiling and features several Indian, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi restaurants inside.

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Access to Big Attractions

Despite not being in the tourist hub, the 10th still provides easy access to the city’s most popular attractions. And for me, being within such short walking distance of Montmartre (my favourite neighbourhood) is a bonus! Montmartre accommodation can be pretty pricey, even for a basic hotel, so I love staying somewhere close by without the big price tag.

Montmartre > 19 minutes on metro | 25 minute walk
Eiffel Tower > 35 minutes on metro
Louvre > 17 minutes on metro | 36 minute walk
Arc de Triomphe > 20 minutes on metro
Notre Dame > 20 minutes on metro | 43 minute walk

All in all, I cannot wait to return to Hôtel Les Deux Gares! Next time, I’m planning on reserving that room with a bathtub that looks out over the city! Nowhere better to sit, enjoy the views, drink a good glass of French wine and plan out the next day’s adventures.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Honest Review Of Hôtel Les Deux Gares, Stylish Savings at an Art Deco-Chic Hotel in Paris first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

On my latest trip to Stockholm, I stayed in the NOFO Hotel. This hotel had been personally recommended to me by a few friends who had previously visited there, and I was eager to check it out for myself. NOFO is located in the hip neighbourhood of Södermalm. While staying in the center of town might seem like the best option for travelling, it often leaves you in an area deserted at night, as tourists are your only neighbours. Staying outside of the tourist hub, you get to see the real residences of the city. You can feel more a part of the citizens’ daily lives and get a better glance through the looking glass.

In the 1500s, Södermalm was a district that was mainly inhabited by the most impoverished workers of Stockholm. But today, a lot has changed! Now, in the streets of Södermalm, you can find the most relaxing cafes, trendy bars, and hipster clothing shops. 

Access & Transportation Nearby

NOFO Hotel a great place to be located as it is also just a 20-minute walk into the Gamla Stan, the historic old town of Stockholm. There is a metro station just 2-minutes down the road where you can get to Stockholm Central Station in 10-minutes. The Stockholm Slussen kajen ferry terminal is also located 15-minutes away by foot. From this terminal, you can take the ferry to any of the nearby islands. There are also buses which run all over the neighbourhood which will bring you anywhere in the city in a jiffy! This proved especially convenient during the winter when it was too cold to walk. I never had to wait for more than 10-minutes for a bus. This neighbourhood really proved to be super easy for getting around Stockholm!

History

NOFO Hotel prides itself on embuing the Södermalm spirit of creating a space for curiosity, creativity, open-mindedness. The building was initially built in the 18th century by brewer Lorenz Sifvert. The brewery was set up on the ground floor, and the upper levels were used for the workers, and the top floor was his residence. After the brewery went belly up, the large building remained a prized property, so the city bought it in 1812. For years it was used as a barracks for the city guard. Here beggars, petty thieves and women who engaged in prostitution were brought in to pay for their crimes.

Later in 1834, when the city was being ravaged by cholera, the building was once more converted into a temporary hospital. It wasn’t until 1976 when it was converted into the Columbus Hotell. The hotel continued to grow over the years, expanding into more and more rooms throughout the complex. They even turned the 18th-century vaults downstairs into a wine cellar! The hotel changed hands multiple times with each new owner continuing renovations to meet the needs of modern travellers. Finally, in 2014 we saw the opening of NOFO Hotel! Can you believe the history-steeped into these walls?! What a place to lie your head at night! Thankfully, I didn’t hear any ghost rattling around at night although you never know with all the goings-on which happened here…

Room Styles

Each of the rooms inside the NOFO hotel is different. This is not just so you have a unique experience, but because they could not change too much of the original building’s structure. So they had to get creative with the room layouts. There are only 109 rooms, over the three floors, which makes the space feel intimate without being too small as to not offer the fantastic amenities they have. There are four different design styles found throughout the hotel, each one featuring stylistic touches that are the definition of what makes a boutique hotel.

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Scandinavian retro

The Scandinavian retro room features classic Swedish patterns, green leather and accent colours in yellow and orange. The inspiration comes from Scandinavian designs of 1930 from both Södermalm and Copenhagen.

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Parisian

The Parisian rooms reflect ‘La Belle Époque‘ of Paris. Visual references for these designs were drawn from Montmartre, a small neighbourhood in Paris, which was home to the Moulin Rouge. As such, you’ll find velvet everywhere creating a lush, serene and somewhat sensual environment. Great for couples!

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Metropolitan Luxury

The Metropolitan luxury rooms drew their inspiration from the Uptown neighbourhood of big cities like New York, London and Rome. They blend modern classics with elegant designs. 

Industrial Vintage

Their newest rooms are the Industrial Vintage style. The inspiration for these rooms was drawn from neighbourhoods like Södermalm, as well the Bronx, Brooklyn and Queens in New York. They have a more contemporary vibe, with metal, leather, glass, solid wood and steel pipes incorporated into the layout. But for all the style and luxury, their room prices are incredibly affordable! If you have a design preference simply put that in your booking notes and the hotel will do its best to accommodate.

For me, one of the best things they offer were Single bedrooms. This is amazing since I was solo travelling while visiting the city. It was great to have the option of a single bed at a lower price, which was perfect for me. But when I arrived, they upgraded my room at no charge since there were a few Superior Rooms in the hotel unbooked. It’s these small gestures that smaller boutique hotels can do that make your stay even more special.

One of my favourite parts of my room was the view of the nearby church. At night, people would come to light candles in the cemetery for their loved ones. The gentle flickering of the candlelight at night was one of the most lovely sights to enjoy while sitting in my room, detailing the day’s experiences as night drew to a close.

It was Christmas time when I visited and throughout the entire hotel there were Christmas trees and decorations all over the place to make your home away from home feel as festive as possible! I loved these small touches and the warmth the twinkle lights brought to the dark and chilly weather was much appreciated!

Prices

Prices obviously vary during different times of the year but here is a good estimate of their ranges. All these rates include breakfast, which I’ll get into later—and all prices are listed in USD.

Single Room: $114 – $130
Classic Room: $125 – $171
Standard Room: $134 – $180
Superior Room: $152 – $199
Executive Room: $162 – $237
Junior Suite Room: $301 – $330
Suite: $385 – $423

Amenities

Included in your hotel room you’ll get a laptop-sized safe, hairdryer, eco-labelled toiletries, iron and ironing board, and an umbrella. The toiletries were terrific, and if you’re trying to travel light, it’s great not to have to bring any of these items with you. Umbrellas take up a lot of space and weight so it was great to have one on hand! Should you be thirsty or peckish, there is a fully stocked minibar and an electric kettle to make coffee and tea in your room (which is free of charge). This was key for me after coming home from the cold. After throwing off my jacket, I would boil the pot as soon as possible to have warm tea upon slumping down in my comfy, made bed.

Book an executive room, junior suite or a regular suite and you’ll also get a CrossFit class ticket with their local gym partner (located 2 minutes’ walk from the hotel) Just ask at reception which classes are available and get your card there for a fun and challenging exercise. Might not be for everyone but for those who love to experience something different, this will be great for you! 

Breakfast

More often than not, I never book a room with breakfast included. I would usually far rather head outside and discover a new cafe or restaurant to dine in. But I had heard WONDERFUL things about breakfast here. I was also staying over the Christmas holidays and wasn’t sure what would be open, so I felt by booking the breakfast with the room, I would be sure to get something to eat as soon as I awoke. And let me tell you how glad I am, I did! The word ‘breakfast’ doesn’t even begin to describe how beautiful the spread they offer really is.

Decor

When I walked downstairs from my hotel room (and I always took the stairs as they were one of the oldest and most intriguing parts of the building) the smell would perk me right up from any jet lag I might have been feeling. There were over five different rooms you could dine in, spread out in their wine bar area, which is open in the evening. I would pick a different room to eat every day. Each one was fantastically decorated for Christmas and had a unique vibe.

The room which most resembled a cafe was where you could pick up your coffee or tea every morning. They had every kind of tea you could think of, and the coffee was just as good as you would get in a fancy coffee shop. Another thing I found so charming was the candy table right beside the brew bar. Swedes LOVE penny candy, and I couldn’t believe to see it at breakfast too. I surely indulged, “when in Rome,” am I right? Besides the candy, there were also some cookies and crackers for those looking for just a light breakfast.

The Buffet

Then you made your way to the extravagant breakfast buffet. Walking into the main breakfast room, I was almost overwhelmed by the selection found there. Every morning there were a variety of homemade smoothies to choose from in these adorable little shot glasses. Individual pots of freshly made yogurt were on offer, which you could top with fresh fruits, cereal, granola and jam compotes.

Everything from home-baked bread, pastries and cakes could be found on the carbs table. My favourite section had to be the make-your-own-breakfast-smorgasbord. Here you could fill your plate with cheese, pickled herring, pickled onions and radishes, various cured meats and more! There were also breakfast staples like scrambled eggs, bacon, porridge and prinskorv (prince sausages – a traditional Swedish breakfast item).

Christmas Breakfast

One Christmas morning, we were treated to a Christmas spread, which included all the previous items plus rice porridge with clementines, Juligt Knäckebröd (crispbread), saffron buns, and a lovely gingerbread Christmas cake! I have never experienced breakfast like this before, and I hope to experience it once more! It was the highlight of my day and got every morning off to a fantastic start. I remember the first night of my stay I had a bit of sickness from the stress of my journey, and that morning’s breakfast was all I needed to feel absolutely refreshed, reenergized and ready for the day!

There were also plenty of gluten-free and vegan options laid out. I was told you might need to ask for them, but I never had to inquire as I found everything I wanted each morning. Breakfast is served from 7 am to 10 am on weekdays and 7 am to 11 am on the weekends. DON’T MISS OUT!

Winebar

After coming home from a long day out, exploring the city, one of the best ways to wind down is relaxing at the bar. And at NOFO, the bar is only steps away from your hotel room! During the summer, the tables are set up outside so you can enjoy the Midsommar weather. In the winter, the cozy and sumptuous rooms indoors make you feel like you’re wrapped up in a big blanket. During my stay at Christmas, they even had their own Gin & tonic Glögg to try! Glögg is the Swedish version of mulled wine, so it was neat to try the same flavours in a gin and tonic! 

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The food on offer is uncomplicated and the Swedish interpretation of comfort food. The menu changes month to month, but you’re always bound to find something with a Scandinavian twist to indulge your travel tooth.

NOFO Wine bar’s opening hours:
Monday – Thursday 3 pm – 11 pm
Friday – Saturday 3 pm – Midnight 
The kitchen is open from 4pm till closing.

One of my favourite memories of the entire trip was on Christmas eve. I knew most places would be closed, so I headed out the day before and bought a bunch of groceries to have a little homemade smorgasbord of Swedish Christmas treats back at the hotel. I decorated my room with a few different Christmas souvenirs I had purchased and even set up a burning fireplace video on my phone to make the entire meal feel all the more festive. It was a beautiful way to celebrate the holiday, even far from home. The comfort of the gorgous hotel room really was the cherry on top!

I cannot recommend this place more and hope the next time you’re visiting Stockholm, you stay at the NOFO hotel.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Experience Södermalm’s NOFO Hotel, the Best Boutique Stay in Stockholm first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Thankfully for me, I stumbled up Casa Dovela, located in our preferred neighbourhood of La Condesa. It was like a beacon of hope! They still had their two-bedroom apartment available, and we were able to book it up for the week we were in the city. And I suppose everything happens for a reason since our stay with Casa Dovela was one of the best parts of our trip.

Casa Dovela

Casa Dovela is a three suite, “Casa-Boutique”. It’s a cross between a luxury home and a boutique hotel located along the art-deco streets of Condesa. The building, which is now the boutique hotel, was left abandoned, like so many other residences in Condesa after the earthquake. But seeing its developmental potential, the creators, Chic by Accident Project and Ludwig Godefroy, snapped it up. They nabbed it just as the revitalization of Condesa was starting to take place. Aspects of the original architecture were preserved, but many parts of the building were modernized both for aesthetics and comfort.

We were met at the front door of Casa Dovela by one of the concierges to show us around the suite and all the many different amenities inside it. The concierges were absolutely fantastic to have. They work 24/7 to let you in and out of the front door but are also extremely helpful with any questions you might have about the property or Mexico City. While they didn’t speak English, we often used the translator apps and found that to work perfectly well.

San Jose Duplex

We stayed in the San José duplex. Walking inside the suite, the first thing you notice is the beautiful black clay flooring, which was made from materials from San Bartolo Coyotepec, in the state of Oaxaca. The floors are also heated underneath, which makes walking on them in the morning an absolute pleasure! Throughout the first floor, you could tell, that each and every object which decorated the room was brought there to serve a purpose and tell a story. The objects were all made by Mexican craftsmen in the mountain ranges of Mexico. The owners of the property frequently travelled to this region. They brought back their findings to add an element of regional art to the rooms.

The kitchen was perfectly set up, full of anything and everything you need. They even left us some kitchen essentials like coffee, tea, oil, and other pantry items. They were perfect for having a home-cooked meal if you were so inclined. Standing in the kitchen in the morning, it was lovely to make a coffee and watch the dogs play in the park adjacent to the house. Dog parks in Mexico City are so popular, as everyone seems to have a puppy. Watching the locals out at play in the morning with their pups made you feel like you were just a part of the fabric of the neighbourhood and weren’t staying in a hotel.

The heating throughout the apartment was very much appreciated since the mornings in Mexico City in the wintertime can still be pretty chilly. Standing in the dining room in the morning, you had the most beautiful view up to the blue skies or in the evening, you could stare up at the stars. The gorgeous spiral staircase leads only to the upstairs bedroom and bathroom, so it gave each of the bedrooms a better sense of privacy from each other.

The bathroom was my favourite place to be. I need to have a bathtub due to issues with my muscles and getting to relax in this one after a long day of walking and exploring was such a joy. I’ve never been in a bathtub before where I could lie flat and still not touch the ends of the tub. Incredible! The light which would shine in the windows, through the leafy trees outside, was nothing less than magic.

The living room was the only place where we felt they could have sacrificed a bit on aesthetics. We would have loved a much more comfortable couch and seating arrangement where we could all rest and relax after a long day. We do love having a drink and enjoying some local TV at night, but the arrangement of the chairs and their awkward couch didn’t quite allow for a comfortable evening.

Our bedrooms were a heavenly place. The beds were like falling into a massive pillow at the end of the day, they just seem to wrap you up in a big comfy hug. One of the best parts of Casa Dovela was the cleaning service provided every day. There is just something so lovely about coming home to a beautifully made bed and clean house (cause lets face it who has time to clean on vacation). That is something I always miss when I’m staying in an Airbnb.

While the small bit of outdoor space we had on the first floor might not have had a view, it was still nice to sit outside on the warmer mornings to sip my coffee and prepare for the rest of the day. Despite the lack of view, the terrace was filled with greenery, so it made you feel like you were in a little forest.

Right outside Casa Dovela, on Mondays, was a little farmers market which was perfect for picking up some food for the week. Since we had our own fully loaded kitchen, it was easy to get fresh fruits and veggies to prepare at home. We also picked up a large bouquet of roses for only $3 to decorate the interior of the house. The bouquet was so big we easily split it into multiple vases to put all over the house. Just something to make the place feel homier and shopping in this little market really made us feel like locals.

I would 100% recommend staying at Casa Dovela next time you’re visiting Mexico City if you’re travelling with a group. It’s that perfect combination of hotel and apartment. This provides you with the comfort and ease of a hotel with the feeling of living more like the locals that an apartment would.

Prices

Santa Monica Suite
One bedroom – $266 USD / night

San Mateo Duplex
2 bedrooms with queen size beds – $300 USD / night

San Jose Duplex
1 bedroom with queen size bed – $312 USD / night

The post A Lovely Week At Casa Dovela, Mexico City Hotel Review first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Guide to Pujol

1. About the Restaurant
2. Reservations
3. Dress Code?
4. The Cost
5. Taco Omakase Experience
   • Beverage Pairings
   • Food Allergies
   • A Journey Through Mexican Cuisine
6. My Experience
   • Starting with Street Snacks
   • Cervezas & Cocktails
   • Seafood Tacos
   • Mushrooms and Tamarind
   • Tetelas
   • Gorditas
   • Chileatole
   • Desserts
7. Is It Worth the Money?

About the Restaurant

Pujol is located in the upscale neighbourhood of Polanco. Polanco isn’t my favourite district in Mexico City. It feels too North American for my tastes and a little too prim and proper. Pujol itself is hidden away on a quiet, greenery-laced side street. Walking in, you feel like you’re entering a peaceful, modern family home. The restaurant recently moved into this new location, and the owner designed the entire space to reflect the atmosphere of the food. The blend of the natural outdoor environment and the modern urban design of the interior is incredible. Chef Enrique Olvera first opened Pujol in Mexico City in 2000. It has been one of the biggest foodie draws for travellers and locals alike. Olvera draws his inspiration for his food from traditional Mexican ingredients and old culinary techniques.

Reservations

There are two types of reservations you can get at Pujol. One is for the traditional, 5-course tasting menu. There are five different timed reservations available throughout the afternoon and evening. But the traditional menu has many more seats available per seating. On the other hand, the Omakase menu takes place at the taco bar, which only seats about 15 people. There are four different seating times; 1:30 pm, 4:00 pm, 6:30 pm and 9:30 pm. But be warned that the taco Omakase experience lasts around 4 HOURS! So if you book the 9:30 pm time, be prepared to stay up late!

Dress Code?

The taco bar definitely felt a little more casual than the table service diners. But nonetheless, everyone was very well dressed. There was no strict dress code, but we felt totally comfortable in what we had on. But if I had had the chance to dress up a bit more, I think I would have used the opportunity since it’s a nice way to celebrate a special occasion.

The Cost

I wanted to discuss the cost here since we had a bit of a surprise when we went. Since there are no prices on the official website, I had read online that the Omakase menu was $90 USD without alcohol and $170 including alcohol pairings. I’m not sure if this was an option at one point, but when we arrived, the cost was a set price of $170 USD with OR without alcohol. We had planned to just get the meal without alcohol, so adding another $80 extra per person was an unexpected shock. We thought, “well, we’re here, and it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience at one of the best restaurants in the world, so let’s try and forget about the money and enjoy the experience!”

For many people who budget TO THE DOLLAR, this would be a huge problem, so I wanted to be sure to mention that in this review. I don’t drink, so immediately, my heart sank as I felt like I would be getting less for the price I paid vs. the people who get to drink expensive liqueurs. But in this case, let me tell you, I have never in my life had a more immersive, delicious and complimentary experience with my beverages at a meal. I felt like every drink they made for me was so carefully designed and created. And while I do think that my bank account would have preferred the option to not have the drink pairings, the experience was one of a kind. The drink pairings did suit each dish perfectly, and I think they made them taste even better.

Taco Omakase Experience

The Taco Omakase menu was inspired by the chef’s love of Japanese sushi tasting menus. This tasting menu is served at the bar. You get to watch the bar staff make drinks and entertain the customers. It felt like a very informal and yet familial experience. Some people might not have liked this, but we found it to be an entertaining aspect of the entire night.

Beverage Pairings

The Omakase is a 10-course meal complete with snacks, tacos, desserts and your choice of beverages paired with the dishes. At the beginning of the service, your server will ask what kind of beverage you want to have throughout your meal. They prefer you select one type of alcohol to create a tasting menu of beverages around. While I’m sure you could have switched between options, they definitely recommended you choose just one for the optimal experience. You had a choice between mixed cocktails, craft beer, wine, mezcal or non-alcoholic beverages.

Food Allergies

After you select your beverage, you’ll be asked if you have any food allergies or if there’s anything you don’t eat or drink. They definitely take into account preferences as well as clinical allergies! I have an allergy to fish, but shellfish is perfectly fine, and they easily accounted for this throughout the service. The people beside me didn’t like fish, so their meals were unique to ours almost throughout the entire meal. It was interesting to see the variety of dishes they created for them.

A Journey Through Mexican Cuisine

Your server will introduce each dish to you. Our server spoke English very well, and listening to her explain each creation was like being told a short story. Each of the tacos showcased a different kind of tortilla. Local ingredients were highlighted inside the variety of sauces served alongside the tortillas. It’s interesting to see how different our menu was from someone who ate there a few months before. They definitely change things up for the season.

The one big letdown when we looked at the menu was that we would not get a taco with the famous 1300 day aged mole. We had seen this on previous taco omakase menus but knew it wasn’t sure. We were let down, but I’m not the biggest mole fan anyway, so it wasn’t a deal-breaker. But if it is for you, be sure to call ahead and ask if it will be on the menu.

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My Experience

As a preface to this write-up, I wanted to clarify that I’m definitely no food critique. But I wanted to at least document what we ate at this historic meal service. We started our experience off with a cup of what I honestly think was the best thing I’ve ever drank. It was a simple cup of tea, steeped with the hair of the corn husks and elderflowers. The tea was sweet without being sugary. It made the flavour of corn come through in the most innovative way. The entirety of the rest of the meal is built around corn so leading us into the meal this way felt very apt.

Starting with Street Snacks

Next up was a trio of street snacks. From the left to the right we ate, elote (corn) with a coffee mayo and fried chicatana ants. Before you wince at the word ‘ants’ don’t be scared. They actually added an astounding flavour and texture to the dish and were fantastic! Next up was a blue corn puff with artichoke puree and caviar on top. This sometimes comes with edible larvae instead of the caviar which I would have loved to try. The corn puff was my favourite of the three for sure! The last item was a corn tofu tamale with chives, which was fresh and a perfect finale to the snacks.

Cervezas & Cocktails

My first selected cocktail was a mango and strawberry agua fresca. My husband went with the beer pairing. He loved getting to try all different kinds of local craft beers, some of which are pretty rare too.

Seafood Tacos

The next dish was a raw scallop tostada with sesame oil, habanero ash, chile and lemon mayo. The scallop was so thinly sliced it looked like pieces of paper. Scallops are one of my favourite things to eat and this was perhaps one of the best dishes I’ve ever eaten. Following this up was the long-awaited soft shell crab with plantain puree, tomato marmalade and shishito pepper. I usually don’t like tomatoes but in this sweet marmalade, it was wonderful and a great compliment to the salty shellfish.

Mushrooms and Tamarind

The creamy foods to come next were paid with a salty tamarind margarita with worm salt rim. Worm salt sounds pretty gross, right? Well, not only is it not gross, it’s absolutely fabulous. Tamarind is very popular in Mexico and is used to flavour many foods and candies. I felt like it was so well paired with the other ingredients in this cocktail. Next, it was time for the amberjack taco with seaweed and avocado. Since I can’t eat fish my selection was a portobello mushroom taco with edible herbs on top. I am obsessed with mushrooms so they really couldn’t have picked a better option for me. The fresh crunch of the herbs with the creamy mushrooms was marvellous.

I LOVE horchatas and had been avoiding them all trip since none of them seemed safely made with filtered water. But at Pujol I knew I would be fine. The one they served me was creamy, thick and filled with spices so rich you could smell them before your lips touched the glass.

Tetelas

Up next was the tetela with octopus and peanuts. A tetela is a traditional Mexico dish. It is made of a pocket of corn stuffed with various ingredients most popular in Oaxaca. Inside ours was the aforementioned octopus with black beans on a sweet bed of peanut sauce. I’m not the biggest fan of octopus but cooked in this way I loved it. I was then treated to a beautiful looking violet lemonade with flowers inside. Gorgeous and tasty!

Gorditas

Next up was the spiny lobster taco with hoja santa (Mexican pepper leaf) tortilla. The hoja santa is grown right in the backyard of the restaurant and makes for one of the most stunning images I’ve ever eaten. The lobster was so fresh and sweet and I wish I could have eaten six more! Changing it up a bit, we dug into a pork belly gordita with sea urchin on top. This was a close second of the fave dishes of the night. You could see everyone’s eye-rolling into the back of their heads from the complexity of flavours overwhelming their mouth.

Chileatole

My last drink before we changed settings was a ginger lemon margarita. It was spicy and sour and a nice change from the sweetness of the other drinks. The last dish of the main course was a crab chileatole. Chileatole is a thick soup made of corn masa or corn kernels. This once was also made with succulent chunks of crab. As strange as it may sound to end the meal with a soup, we found it to be lovely. It was a light finish especially after being filled almost to the brim!

Desserts

After the main course, our server which had been with us all evening bid us adieu and led us outside! Before we got up, they passed us our napkin and said that this was a gift for us to keep. A cute little keepsake of the evening. This was a total surprise and a nice one at that! The napkins design also change up constantly so you’re promised a unique souvenir. The next server walked us through a secret door at the back and gave us a tour of the garden outside where they grow various ingredient used in the restaurant. Finally, we were seated at a table near an outdoor fire-pit. This was pretty important as it was a chilly outside and they even brought me a warm blanket to help keep me warm as well.

We were brought a hot cup of cafe de olla, which is coffee made with vanilla, cinnamon, molasses and cocoa. It was so smooth, subtle and sweet. The perfect nightcap.

Our first dessert was another trio, to mirror the trio of snacks we began the night with. They served us a plate of fresh fruit (for us it was sweet cherries) served alongside a soursop with sake. Soursop is a tropical fruit which I’d never eaten before so it was really neat being able to try out something so different. Lastly, we had gaznate. Gaznate is sweet treat made of a thin layer of dough in the shape of a small tube filled with dulce de leche!

Surprise Churro

The evening wore on and after we finished the trio of desserts I thought the night was over but was surprised when they brought us out one of their famous churros. Served hot right out of the fryer, it was perfectly cooked and even the most full among us couldn’t’ say no. We soaked in the last of the warm fire-pit underneath the lush greenery and finally called it a night. We said goodbye to all our wonderful servers as we walked back out onto the streets of Polanco. Bellies full and bucket list checked!

Is It Worth the Money?

The question of is it worth the big price tag is a tricky question to answer. If you love a foodie “experience” this is unmissable. The way every dish is plated, how the ingredients each compliment each other so well and seem to have this ballet like progression throughout the night was unlike any other meal I’d had. I tasted things I never could have imagined before and truly felt over the 4 hours we were there that we were a part of something very special. I do think the shock of the price (since we had originally thought we could order the meal without the drink pairings) was something which if I had been more prepared would have perhaps made me a little more at ease with the final cost.

It’s definitely not inexpensive but after chatting with a ton of people who have eaten at other top ten restaurants elsewhere in the world, this ranks reasonably low in comparison. Were they the best tacos I ate in Mexico City? Honestly, no. But I think that’s more because they felt like they were more than just tacos. They were something altogether more elevated but inspired by those cheap street tacos which you can chow down on for little more than the cost of the Uber to Pujol. Am I glad we went? Absolutely. It was a once in a lifetime kind of meal for us and something I’d never have understood until I experienced it for myself.

Let me know if you’ve ever had a similar experience or eaten at Pujol yourself and let me know what your review of it was!

The post Is Pujol the Best Restaurant in Mexico City? An Honest Review of Pujol’s Omakase first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.