Tokyo Day Trips - The Creative Adventurer

Explore the Stunning Hasedera Temple: Your Ultimate Guide to Kamakura’s Great Goddess

The Creative Adventurer — Sun, 11 Apr 2021 16:31:17 +0000

Sitting on the edge of the hillside, looking out over the coastline and landscape of Kamakura, is the great Hasedera Temple. Hasedera temple is a Buddhist temple built into the “Kannon-zan” mountain. The Kannon is the Japanese Bodhisattva (Buddhist goddess) of mercy. Housed at the top of the hillside is a massive wooden statue of the Kannon that has an extraordinary legend to go along with it. The temple is one of the most favourite spots for visitors during the Hydrangea season. The entire hillside blooms with beautiful rainy season flowers.

Access

Hasedera Temple is located a five-minute walk from Hase Station, the third station from Kamakura along the Enoden railway line. The Enoden is a streetcar-like train that connects Kamakura with Enoshima and Fujisawa. Its terminal station in Kamakura is located just next to JR Kamakura Station.

Hours and Fees
Open: 8:00 to 17:30 (until 17:00 from October to February)
Closed: Open Year Round.
Admission: 400 yen for adults and 200 yen for children under 12

Entry

When you arrive at Hasedera Temple, the first thing you will notice is the iconic pine tree that leans towards the entrance to the temple. As if protecting it from the elements.

Gardens

When you enter through the ticket booth, you step right into the beautiful gardens—these welcome visitors with a spread of blooms throughout the year. I was shocked to find such an incredibly diverse variety of flora and fauna as I explored the garden. It was totally unexpected for me, and I think these gardens are widely underrated as one of the best in Kamakura. In the winter, you can find ume blossoms and narcissus sprouting up.

In the spring, the sakura petals fall on the green grass, and 150 varieties of bright white, red and pink peonies cover the bushes. Summertime brings lotus blossoms and hydrangeas that pop open all over the hillside. In the fall, the red spider lilies bloom along with floral Hibiscus’.

Benten-kutsu Cave

To the right of the entrance, be sure to visit the mysterious Benten-kutsu Cave. The Benten or Benzaiten cave was a sacred place where the Buddist saint, Kobo Dashi, practiced in the seclusion. Inside the candle-lit cave is a large statue of the Benzaiten as well as 16 of her followers.

The Benzaiten is one of the female goddesses of Buddism, who represents feminine beauty and wealth. Inside the cave you’ll find thousands of tiny wooden carvings of the Benzaiten, playing her biwa. The Biwa is an ancient Japanese instrument, essentially a long neck lute. It was traditionally used in narrative storytelling. You can buy a minature of her for 300 yen and leave it here in your honour. Or just keep it as a souvenir, either way, the money goes towards the temple.

Jizo Bodhisattva

As you climb the hill to the upper temple, you will notice the hundreds of statues that line the staircases and hillside. These are statues of the Jizo Bodhisattva, the guardian deity of children who help guide their souls to paradise. When the temple was first built, parents would come here and dedicate a statue to their children to protect the Kannon. Over the years, the symbolism of Jizo statues has changed. Today, they are markers of the souls of children who were lost to miscarriage or stillborn children. Some of the statues are tied with bibs or hand-knit clothing. Never forgotten by their would-be mothers.

While knowing this makes the rows and rows of tiny statues a seemingly sad image, their smiling faces tell another story. That their souls are at rest, and they are happy wherever they are. Each year old statues are burned or buried to make room for more, but they bring a smile to many faces they greet while they remain.

Inari Shrine

Another stop to make along the stairs towards the top is at the Inari Shrine. Inari shrines are a type of Japanese shrine used to worship a particular deity. These shrines aren’t inside the typical building but instead marked by a series of vermillion torii gates. Along the edges of the shrine, there are walls with wooden plaques called the ema. These plaques are left with messages from people who come to pray at the shrine. Typically the ema are in the form of the deity of the inari shrine. In the case of this shrine, we find one of the most peculiar deities, the oyster!

The oysters or kakigara were thought to protect the Kannon Goddess statue while she was at sea. The oysters clung to the wooden figure to protect her from damage or any other predators. The walls here are covered in shells representing the precious kakigara.

Shoro Belfry

When you finally reach the top, the first thing you will see is the Shoro Belfy. This great bell was initially made in 1264 and is the oldest bell in Kamakura. It is rung every morning at 8 am when the gates to the temple open.

Amida Hall

The grand temple at the top is actually made up of three different buildings. The first of which is the Amida Hall. The Amida is the “Buddha of Immeasurable Light and Life.” Inside the building, you will find a golden statue of the great Amida. This Buddha is thought to promise rebirth to all those who chant his name.

Hondo, Main Hall

Inside the Hondo, or Main Hall, is where you’ll find the great statue of the Kannon Goddess. The Kannon Goddess is one of the most precious relics of Japan. It is the tallest wooden statue, standing at 30 feet tall! Legend has it that two figures were carved out of a giant sacred tree. One was sent to the temple in Nara, and the other was thrown into the water.

It was said that wherever the statue reappeared would be a new sacred place. After 15 long years, the statue turned up on the shores near Kamakura, and the temple was built in its honour in 726 AD. The Kannon Goddess is the Goddess of Mercy. She is an 11-headed spirit, each head representing a different phase in the search for enlightenment.

Restaurant and Cafe

Atop the hill, there is a panoramic view of Yuigahama Beach. You can enjoy the view while sitting outside the cafeteria on the long communal tables.

Get something to drink or have a cold ice cream cone to enjoy in the summertime. Either way, this is the best place to see over all of Kamakura.

Prospect Path

To head down from the top, take a walk along the Prospect’s path that winds down the mountain’s western side. This pathway is famous in the summer when it is littered with multi-coloured blooming hydrangeas.

Kyōzō

Before you get to the exit at the bottom of the path, you come across the beautiful secret bamboo forest. In the center of the forest is the Kyōzō. A Kyōzō is a repository for Buddhist scriptures or sūtras. Each one of these was handwritten in beautiful Japanese calligraphy then rolled into a cylinder. Each of the rolled scrolls is placed inside a central pillar, which revolves. This is called the rinzō or wheel repository.

Pay special attention to the large wood cylinders along the wall. These are called “mani” or prayer wheels, used in Tibetan Buddhism. It is believed that when you turned this mani, you will receive the same virtues when the correct prayers are recited. This is perhaps one of the most overlooked parts of the temple complex, and yet, as a bibliophile, I found it to be one of the best interests of the tour.

Hasedera Temple was my favourite spot in Kamakura, despite the fact that it is one of the lesser known temple in this amazing city. Be sure you make a stop here on your next trip to Kamakura

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Explore the Stunning Hasedera Temple: Your Ultimate Guide to Kamakura’s Great Goddess first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Ultimate Kamakura Foodie Tour, All the Best Sweet and Treats to Taste

The Creative Adventurer — Fri, 19 Mar 2021 20:31:29 +0000

Many people who visit Japan never make it out of big cities like Tokyo, or Osaka. While those are all fantastic places to visit, it might surprise you how easy it is to take a day trip from the city out to the country. There are dozens of peaceful rural towns you can visit with ease thanks to the widespread high-speed train network. One of my favourite day trips from Tokyo is to the great seaside city of Kamakura! Kamakura’s laid-back atmosphere and proximity to both the water and mountains make it the perfect place to come and explore. You can stroll through ancient temples, hike through the countryside, spend a day at the beach but my favourite thing to do is eat! A Kamakura Food Tour is the perfect way to taste the unique ingredients and flavours these regional cities are famous for!

There are so many amazing things to eat and drink in Kamamkura so I would recommend reading through this guide and making a list of your top favourites. It’s almost impossible to try it all without getting way too full! But many of these items are also easily saved for later and can even be brought home with your as souvenirs for friends and family, or just for yourself.

How to Get to Kamakura

Kamakura is a comfortable hour-long train ride from Tokyo, making it one of the easiest day-trip. If you leave from the central hub of Tokyo Station you can get directly on the Yokosuka Line. This line arrives directly at Kamakura Station. No need to change any lines. From anywhere else in Tokyo you can still arrive quickly in Kamakura with generally just one change of trains. Outside Kamakura station, head out the WEST exit and make your way to the great big red torii gates that mark the entrance to Komachi Street, famed for all its incredible street food.

Komachi Street

Komachi Street or Komachi-dori is one of the six historic main roads that formed the initial layout of the city of Kamakura. Today, the street is the most popular shopping area for residents and tourists alike. You can find everything from souvenirs to local treats and lovely restaurants. While the street is pretty busy, don’t let that put you off, as everyone is here to enjoy all the amazing things to eat and drink in Kamakura! Because the road is so popular, it is designated as a pedestrian-only zone. Komachi Street is a great place to wander along and try out different local street foods.

Komachi Chaya

Hydrangeas are Kamakura’s iconic flower. They can be found in gardens and flower beds everywhere you look in the Spring. They are a local obsession. Just as Sakura’s seem to be a Japanese obsession, Kamakura residents love their hydrangeas. At Komachi Chaya, you can get not only a hydrangea black tea but also a beautiful kakigori inspired by the colours of the hydrangea. Traditionally a kakigori is either plain or covered in toppings. But this one is served with a tray of various fruit compotes on the side to pour on top to your personal preference! Such a unique way to serve kakigori, so the fruit doesn’t immediately melt the ice.

Price: Kakigori 1,420 yen | Tea Set 680 yen

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Asahina

Asahina is a tiny shop that sells freshly made fish cakes, or “Kamaboko,” from various fish and seafood found on the coast of Kamakura. They serve both steamed and fried versions of the fish cakes made in a variety of flavours. One of the most popular is the octopus (tako) filled with cabbage, onions and pickled ginger. This is almost like a flat version of takoyaki, but honestly, I liked it even better! They also serve shirasu (whitebait) fritters here. Shirasu is the specialty fish of Kamakura, and eating it inside a fritter is a great way if you’re worried you might not like the taste as the fried batter compliments the salty fish perfctly.

Price: 190 – 220 yen per piece

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KYO Kamakura

Daifuku is one of Japan’s most popular desserts, made from mochi with a sweet red bean filling. Here in Kamakura, they have a very unique take on the sweet; the Zunda Daifuku. Zunda is soybeans, also known as edamame. These savoury beans are ground up into a paste and placed inside the mochi. This gives it a much less sweet flavour than the traditional red bean variety. No for everyone, but worth giving a try! You can find the Zunda Daifuku at KYO Kamakura.

Price: 160 yen per mochi ball

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Kintsuba

One of the most popular souvenirs to bring home from Kamakura are these traditional Japanese sweets called Kintsuba. These treats contain a sweet paste, that is moulded into a square cube, then covered in a thin batter and fried. The little cubes of goodness look like tiny presents! Kintsuba comes in flavours like matcha, sakura, lemon, soybean, sweet potato, black sesame and chocolate. They are very crumbly, and a bit dry so best enjoyed alongside a cup of warm matcha. The bean paste simply dissolves in your when eaten this way and is the perfect complement to a serving of afternoon tea. Since these come in pre-packaged boxes, they are a great souvenir or treat to take back to the hotel.

Price: 1,230 yen (6pc)/2,030 yen (10 pc)

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Hannari Inari

Hannari Inari has an excellent option if you’re interested in trying Shirasu but don’t want to eat them plain. They have recently come up with the ‘Shirasuka.’ The Shirasuka is a Japanese omelette filled with Shirasu. These are served on a stick to be easily eaten on the go. The fish adds an umami flavour to the egg and balances out its sweetness.

Shirasu & Tamago: 270 yen

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Kamakurayama Rusk

A “rusk” was something I had never heard of before coming to Kamakura. A Rusk or “rasuku” is a slice of bread that has been covered in butter and sugar and then toasted until it is crisp like a crouton. The sugar caramelizes while cooking adding to the rich flavour. Kamakurayama Rusk has taken the treats to another level. Their rusks come in these vortex designs with swirling colours that are mesmerizing. They even come in different shapes as well. But what really makes them unique are the flavours. You can find macha, burdock, fruit sala, berry shortcake, earl grey, caramel, and more!

Price: 480 yen for Five Rusks

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Kamakura Ichibanya

Kamakura Ichibanya is a shop that makes fresh senbei right there on the street. The smell wafts down the road, guiding you over like in a trance. Senbei are Japanese rice crackera. The ones sold here come in many different flavours, including the most popular; nori wrapped topped in a sweet soy sauce.

Price: 50 yen a piece

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Also hidden away in this shop’s window are fresh Taiyaki. Taiyaki is a Japanese fish-shaped cake, most commonly made from a pancake-like batter and filled with red bean paste. The taiyaki served here is made from a dough that is more like a croissant. It is so buttery and flakey! One of the most local flavours you can get inside your taiyaki is the shirasu, or whitebait, fish-filled version. This isn’t for everyone, but the salty fish inside the flakey pastry is very similar to fish and chips. But they also have sweet flavours like custard, red bean and apple if you’d prefer to avoid the fish.

Price: Taiyaki 350 – 400 yen (varies per flavour)

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Sakura no Yumemiya

My favourite stop on the food tour is Sakura no Yumemiya. This shop sells a variety of fantastic dango. Dango are Japanese dumplings made from rice flour. They are very similar to mochi, but the balls of rice flour are smaller, the size of a marble, and steamed to make them super bouncy instead of chewy. While dango usually comes in just one of two flavours, this shop has dozens and dozens of toppings that jazz it up.

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You can get Sakura, chestnut, roasted soybean, taro, honey lemon, strawberry, edamame, and even nori wrapped! You can also even get one stick of dango covered in a mixture of different toppings! The best way to try all their other flavours without getting too full!

Price Between 170 and 240 yen (varies per flavour)

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Sugi Honey Shop

Sugi Honey Shop almost always has a line out the door, and there is a good reason for that! The shop specializes in honey made on Kyushu Island. Their yuzu lemon honey is one of the most popular and insanely delicious in tea or spread over a scone with cream. If you don’t have the room in your luggage for a whole bottle of honey, then you can try their famous honeycomb ice cream. The soft serve ice cream is served with a drizzle of their renowned honey as well as a slice of natural honeycomb on the side!

Price: Honeycomb Soft serve 320 yen

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Kamakura Mameya

Kamakura Mameya is best known for the candy-coloured dried nuts and legumes. This place is so popular among the locals so prepare to wait. Inside you’ll find peanuts, Komachi beans, soybeans, Koiso pea, broad beans, as well as dried seasonal produce like grapes, tangerines and Sakura. Each one of these treats is covered in brightly coloured toppings making everything look like a piece of candy even when it is actually pretty healthy!

Price: The bags vary in price depending on the item you pick but each one is around 200-500 yen

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HACHI Kamakura

Hachi Kamakura specialized in a newly created dessert that has taken Japan by storm. These are “Cheese in the Baum.” Strange name, I know. The dessert is a take on the “Baumkuchen”, a spit cake. The cake is baked in a similar fashion to cooking meat on a spit, where the dough is slowly wrapped around the spit, so it cooks in layers. When you cut into the cake, the layers resemble the rings of a tree. The word Baumkuchen literally translates to “tree cake” or “log cake”. But this version adds another dimension with a dollop of baked cheesecake added to the hollow center.

Price: Matcha Cheese in the Baum 320 yen

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Kamakura Chacha

If you’re still on the hunt for more matcha, then you must check out Kamakura Chacha. This shop specializes in matcha ice cream but what makes it unique is that you can choose between 5 different levels of matcha strength. The stronger the matcha, the darker green the ice cream is! If you like the flavour but don’t like it too strong, level 1 is a great option. But for those who LOVE matcha’s taste, the level 5 is strong but so well balanced with the sweetness of the ice cream!

Price: Level 1 = 400 yen, Level 2 = 450 yen, Level 3 = 500 yen, Level 4 = 550 yen, Level 5 = 600 yen

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Momiji Chaya

The lines can be pretty long at this shop, but it’s well worth it! Momiji Chaya are famous for their matcha tiramisu! The entire dessert is served within the most aesthetic bamboo box and perfectly levelled out to make it look like it is merely a dessert cube. The whole thing is covered in a dusting of fresh macha to add a bit of bitterness to balance the tiramisu’s sweetness.

Tiramisu: 600 yen or 900 yen for the drink set

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Imbiss

If you come to Japan, the last thing you might think of eating is German food, but one of the most popular spots in Kamakura is this german sausage spot called Imbiss! What I love about these sausages is that instead of a typical stale bun, they are served either without a bun at all or the soft white bread bun, like eating a cloud! You can get them filled with cheese, herbs, spices and even german smoked. They also come with all sorts of toppings to your preference. To go with your sausage, you can also try a pint of local Kamakura beer! The perfect pairing.

Price: Sausages = 390 yen each, Kamakura Beer= 750 yen

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Kamakura Karari

If you enjoyed the Shirasu omelette earlier, I would implore you to try out a Shirasu-don. This is a whitebait rice bowl. The Shirasu served like this really brings out the fish’s flavour and is one of the most traditional ways to enjoy the local catch of the day. While other shops usually serve the Shirasu raw, Kamakura Karari also offers it broiled or cooked in a tempura fritter! I opted for the fritter, and it was amazing!

Price: Shirasu-don Rice Bowl 1,580 yen

Abre Noir

“Omiyage” is a gift or souvenir that you bring back from vacation to give to friends, coworkers, or family. Because these are meant to be shared with many people, boxes of omiyage contain individually wrapped treats. Different prefectures are well known for their famous regional omiyage. At Abre Noir, you can get “Kamakura-ware“. It is a sweet matcha dough filled with black sesame paste! I love sesame paste, and to me, it is more delicious than anko (red bean paste) as it feels a little smoother. Each one of these miniatures desserts is sealed for individual consumption.

Price: 10 cakes for 640 yen

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Imoyoshi Yakata

A new Instagram-famous treat in Kamakura is this ramune-strawberry twist ice cream cone topped with little heart-shaped marshmallows from Imoyoshi Yakata. While it certainly is one of the most kawaii (cute) looking desserts, it’s not just all for the gram. I LOVE ramune ice cream! Ramune is a Japanese soft drink with a clean and crispt flavour. Along with the creamy strawberry-milk ice cream, it makes such a good combo!

Price: 400 yen for the twist, 450 yen for twist with marshmallows

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Toshimaya Honten

The last thing to pick up before you leave is a pack of “Hato Sabure.” Hato Sabure was invented during the Meiji era in Kamakura. “Hato” means “dove” in Japanese and “sabure” means “shortbread’. So together they make dove-shaped shortbread. But don’t worry, it’s only named that for the shape, no doves were harmed in the making of this treat. The nearby Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū shrine is dedicated to the god Hachiman whose name also contains the character for the dove inspiring the cookie’s creation.

Price: 7 Cookies – 864 yen

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Hopefully, you found some amazing things to eat and drink while here in Kamakura. If you are interested in making a full day out of your visit here you can head over and read my blog post guide to Kamakura. Let me know in the comment which item you’re most excited to try out!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Kamakura Foodie Tour, All the Best Sweet and Treats to Taste first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Best Guide to Exploring the Amazing Hydrangeas of Kamakura

The Creative Adventurer — Mon, 15 Mar 2021 17:35:52 +0000

The rainy season in Kamakura brings with it the most beautiful spray of bright blue and purple hydrangeas! As the rain mixes with summer’s hot temperatures and humidity, it creates the ideal conditions for this flower to grow. Ajisai, as they are called in Japan, is grown all over the country. But Kamakura is the most popular place to see such a wide variety and concentration of them. Although a rainy day can seem like it could ruin your vacation, Japanese people think the opposite. It’s said that seeing the flowers in the rain is actually the best time to view them. So instead of letting the rain get you down, make your way to Kamakura and soak in the beauty of their hydrangeas.

Table Of Contents

Dress for Success
Hydrangeas Symbolism in Japan
When to go See Them
How To Ge to Kamakura
Engakuji temple
Tokeiji Temple
Meigetsu-in Temple
- Hojo Tokiyori
Hase Temple
Joju-in Temple Stairs
Gokurakuji Station
Gokurakuji Temple
Komachi Chaya
Sakura no Yumemiya
Imoyoshi Yakata

Dress for Success

The key to a great day out in the rain is the proper attire! If you know there might be rain on your trip, bring a light but high-quality raincoat with you. A coat that folds up quickly is great as it can be tucked away in your backpack once the rain passes. I always bring a large plastic bag with me to put any wet clothes inside once I take them off.

While you might not want to pack a large pair of rubber boots, an excellent option is all-weather leather ankle boots. Add a bit of anti-rain spray and this will go along way to keeping your feet dry. If I’m expecting a lot of rain, I always pack an extra pair of socks. Just throw them in your backpack to change into throughout the day. They take up almost no room and can be a game-changer. Avoid wearing jeans on a rainy day as once they get wet, they take FOREVER to dry! Avoid cotton and synthetic fabrics as well. The best thing to wear, especially in warmer weather, is a dress with nylon stockings or light leggings. Since these aren’t too porous, they won’t retain the water and dry quickly once the weather clears up.

If you’re hesitant to bring an umbrella, as it takes up weight and room in your suitcase, fear not! On rainy days, almost everywhere you go in Japan, like train stations and convenience stores, will have umbrellas for sale. And best of all, they only cost about $5. They are surprisingly high quality and even look super cute! I love the clear plastic dome and a wide opening for good rain coverage.

Hydrangeas Symbolism in Japan

Hydrangeas are not only a beautiful flower but also a highly symbolic one. Since the flower has a large head and long stalk, the blooms appear to bow down as if they were crying when covered in rainfall. The pale pink varieties are thought to resemble the shape of a beating heart. So for these reasons, they have always been associated with heartfelt emotion. Legend has it that the Japanese emperor gave the hydrangea flower to the family of the girl he loved. He had been paying too much attention to work and not enough to her. He wanted to show his remorse to his future in-laws for his neglect. So he sent them a basket of flowers to show how sorry he was and express his gratitude for their understanding.

The variety of hydrangea that you’ll find in Japan was created by famous botanist Tomitaro Makino. He was known as the “Father of Japanese Botany.” He named this variety the “princess hydrangea” because of its large, beautiful clusters of star-like petals. As the flower blooms, the colours of the petals get deeper and deeper. When they first open, they are a pale, baby blue colour. As their seasons extend, the colour gradually turns into a deep indigo hue. One of the best times to view the flowers is at dawn and dusk. At this time the light of the rising or setting sun kisses the petals and makes them appear even more vibrant. For these reasons, they are also labeleld as ‘Shitihenge‘ flowers which means “various changes“.

When to go See Them

Hydrangeas bloom in Kamakura from mid-June to early July. Rain or shine, the hydrangea season in Kamakura is hectic! Local Japanese people come from prefectures all over the country to see the flower – they definitely aren’t a hidden secret. The best times to avoid at all costs are the weekend and holidays when you’ll see the largest influx of people. Aim for an early start to your day and arrive mid-week and you’ll be rewarded with the best shot of having an excellent opportunity to see the flowers without too many crowds.

Remember, if there’s a large group gathered blocking your view, just wait till the group passes. You might find you suddenly have the spot all to yourself (if even for just a minute.) As in all things, patience is critical, as well as understanding that everyone else is just as excited as you to see the blooms, and we all just need to share the space.

How To Ge to Kamakura

Kamakura is a comfortable hour-long train ride from Tokyo, making it one of the easiest day-trips to do. If you leave from the central hub of Tokyo Station you can get right on the Yokosuka Line. This line arrives directly at our first stop, Kita-Kamakura Station. No need to change any lines. Virtually, from anywhere else in Tokyo you can still arrive quickly in Kamakura with generally just one change of trains.

Engakuji temple

Head to Kita-Kamakura Station to make your way to Engakuji temple. This temple complex is the best place to start your day. The hydrangeas here aren’t as dense as the other spots, so it’s one of the less crowded places on the tour. The Engakuji temple is one of the most important Zen Buddhist temple complexes in Japan. Its historical importance is one of the foundations of Kamakura but the beauty of the gardens and buildings that make up the temple complex is what will draw you in like under a spell.

Hours: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm | Admission fee: 300 yen

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The hydrangea blooms pop-up in small clusters throughout the temple. Along the pathways and around the large Sanmon gate. Be sure to find the tea house located on the grounds. During the hydrangea season, you can enjoy a cup of matcha with a side of sweet candy shaped into the iconic blossoms.

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Tokeiji Temple

Just across from Kita-Kamakura station and south down the road a few minutes, you’ll find yourself at Tokeiji Temple. Tokeiji Temple was founded as a nunnery for women who wanted to escape abusive marriages but could not initiate a divorce. Their flower garden was always one of the greatest in Kamakura, and still to this day, it’s a great place to come to see the hydrangeas.

Hours: 8:30 am to 5:00 pm | Admission Fee: 100 yen

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Meigetsu-in Temple

Continue walking south and cross over the river when you come to Meigetsuin Street. Named for the most famous temple to see during the flower season. The road will be pretty busy as this narrow street, usually only for a few locals, is suddenly overcome with tourists. As you approach the mouth of the temple, you’ll see why…

Hours: 8:30 am to 5 pm (last admission at 4:30 pm) | Admission fee: 500 yen

Meigetsu-in Temple is also known as the “Ajisai-dera Temple“, which means “Hydrangea Temple“. Every year, baby blue hydrangeas bloom in the gardens which cover the grounds of the temple. One of the best views of the flowers is right as you come in. The sprays of blooms lean in on either side of the staircase. Almost greeting you with their bowed heads. Meigetsu-in was founded in 1160 as a Rinzai Zen temple and Buddist school. The temple complex provides a stunning array of views at the iconic Kamakura landscape. The views features a look at the valley with its low hills and bright green foliage spread across the background of the great mountains.

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Hojo Tokiyori

Meigetsu-in Temple is famously known for housing the tomb of Hojo Tokiyori, a former supreme ruler of Japan. Tokiyori made his home in Kamakura and wanted to be commemorated here. The building that houses his tomb is one of the most beautiful, with a charming thatched roof and stunning historical founders hall. The key feature of this room is the iconic circle window. The circle window is meant to resemble the moon as the name Meigetsu literally means “bright moon.” It is called the “Window of Enlightenment” and looks out at an inner zen garden where people can find peace in meditation.

As another nod to the moon, you might notice a series of rabbit statues throughout the temple. Rabbits have long been associated with the moon in Japanese folklore. Legend has it that when the man on the moon came down to earth, the rabbit was willing to sacrifice himself to feed the starving man. Shocked by the rabbit’s generosity, the man took the rabbit back to the moon with him. You can still see the outline of a rabbit pounding mochi on the full moon when you look up today. In addition to rabbit statues, there is also rabbit in cages that you’ll find as you explore. And you might even spot a rabbit hopping around the flowers as well.

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Hase Temple

Hase Temple or Hase-dera is known for its hilltop temple built into the mountains of Kamakura. But during the rainy season, what brings so many people to the temple are the 2,500 hydrangeas that cover the temple’s grounds. Over 40 different hydrangeas varieties bloom in the temple and cover the scenic Prospect Path, which looks over the seaside. The rising swell of flowers that cover the hills of the temple look like something out of a painting!

Hours: 8:00 am 5:00 pm | Admission fee: 400 yen

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Joju-in Temple Stairs

Walking down from Hase temple, make a stop at Joju-in Temple. This small temple is located at the top of long set of stairs, carved into the edge of the hillside looking out over the beach. The stone staircase is flanked by 262 hydrangeas that create this mesmerizing photo. One of the best parts of this stop is that you don’t even need to go into the temple to get the beautiful view! So it’s a free activitiy.

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Gokurakuji Station

Gokurakuji Station is a charming little train station where you can see a smattering of hydrangea flowers located on either side of the train track. The flowers grow so large they lean onto the track, almost getting in the way of the train. Gokurakuji is located on the historic Enoden Train line famous for its retro and colourful train cars.

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Gokurakuji Temple

Although Gokurakuji Temple might be small, it has an impressive set of hydrangeas out front. These bright and elegant flowers look especially beautiful against the temple’s rustic backdrop.

Hours: 9:00 to 4:30 pm | Admission: Free

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Komachi Chaya

Once you are done touring the temple, it’s time to get something to eat. And there is no better place to eat the best street food than Komachi street. Just as Sakura’s seem to be a Japanese obsession, Kamakura residents love their hydrangeas. At Komachi Chaya, they serve up a hydrangea black tea infused with the petals. You can also get an ombre coloured kakigori inspired by the hues of the hydrangea. Traditionally a kakigori is either plain or covered in toppings. But this one is served with a tray of various fruit compotes on the side to pour on top as you like it! Adding the fruit as you eat it also means it doesn’t immediately melt the ice right away. The perfect treat to enjoy on a hot and humid day.

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Sakura no Yumemiya

My favourite stop for a treat in Kamakura is Sakura no Yumemiya. This shop sells a variety of fantastic dango. Dango is Japanese dumplings made from rice flour. They are very similar to mochi, but the rice flour balls are smaller, the size of a marble, and steamed to make them super bouncy instead of chewy. While dango usually comes in just one of two flavours, this shop has dozens and dozens of toppings that jazz it up. The best one to get during this season is the hydrangea-inspired dango. It is covered in a green and purple topping meant to resemble the hydrangeas steams and flowers. The toppings are made from white bean paste. The green part is flavoured with matcha, while the purple is flavoured with taro (sweet potato).

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Imoyoshi Yakata

Imoyoshi Yakata is a trendy and colourful soft serve ice cream shop. Other than the smiling faces of the people inside, the thing that really draws you into the shop is the fantastic flavours offered up here. But what you need to buy during hydrangea season is the “Ajisai” ice cream. This version is a mix of Uji green tea and purple sweet potato, once more coloured to look like the iconic flower.

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If you find yourself anywhere near Kamakura during the rainy season you really need to make an effort to see the hydrangeas for yourself! The season isn’t as short-lived as the Sakuras, so you have a little bit more time to plan your trip around seeing them. They are definitely a popular attraction but well worth the train ride out to see them. Plus, Kamakura is one of my favourite day trips from Tokyo and such a lovely little seaside town to wander and explore.

The post The Best Guide to Exploring the Amazing Hydrangeas of Kamakura first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Ultimate Kamakura Day Trip Itinerary; Shrines, Sea and Shirasu!

The Creative Adventurer — Mon, 08 Mar 2021 18:01:59 +0000

Many people who visit Japan never make it out of big cities like Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka. While those are all fantastic cities to visit, it might surprise you how easy it is to take a day trip from the city out to the country. There are dozens of peaceful rural towns you can visit which are only a little more than an hour away from Tokyo. Some people commute to work for longer than that every day! Thanks to the widespread high-speed train network so many of these incredible cities are easily accessible from the big city. One of my favourite day trips from Tokyo is to the great seaside city of Kamakura!

Kamakura was once the capital of Japan from 1185 to 1333. Its early importance in the history of Japan ensured its legacy forever. Kamakura’s laid-back atmosphere and proximity to both the water and mountains make it the perfect place to come and explore. Kamakura has it all packed into one lovely spot. Stroll through ancient temples, hike through the countryside, spend a day at the beach and taste your way through the bustling city center. And best of all, you can easily see it all in one day!

Table Of Contents

History
Map
How to Get to Kamakura
How Much Does a Day in Kamakura Cost?
When to Leave & How much time to Spend in Kamakura
Shrine Etiquette
Praying and Offerings
Start your Tour at Kita-Kamakura Station
Engaku-ji Temple
Tokei-ji
Meigetsuin Street
Ishikawa Coffee
Enoden Line
Hasedera Temple
Great Daibutsu at Kotoku-in
Yuigahama Beach
Komachi-dori
Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū

History

In 1185 Shōgun Minamoto no Yoritomo became the first Kamakura Shogunate. The Kamakura Shogunate was the feudal military government leader of Japan. One of the first things Minamoto did as Shogun was to move the seat of power in Japan to Kamakura. This period was called the ‘Kamakura Era. In the later years of its rule, Kamakura became one of the most populous settlements in Japan.

The name ‘Kamakura‘ comes from the words “kama” and “kura”. Kama means “oven” and kura means “saddle “. In ancient Japan, an oven or hearth was closed on three sides and open on one side. Kamakura itself is closed-off on all side by mountains but open on one side out to the ocean. In addition, when you look at the landscape of Kamakura from the ocean the hillside creates a saddle-like shape.

Map

To follow along with this guided tour, you can download the step-by-step map or add it to your googlemaps.

How to Get to Kamakura

Kamakura is a comfortable hour-long train ride from Tokyo, making it one of the easiest day-trip. If you leave from the central hub of Tokyo Station you can get directly on the Yokosuka Line. This line arrives directly at our first stop, Kita-Kamakura Station. No need to change any lines. From anywhere else in Tokyo you can still arrive quickly in Kamakura with generally just one change of trains.

How Much Does a Day in Kamakura Cost?

No matter where you are in the city, a ticket to Kamakura will run you about 900 – 1,100 yen. So around $20 USD for a return ticket. While you are in Kamakura your main expenses will be admission into the shrines, a few train tickets and some street food. So much of this tour is on foot and only the large distances are covered on the train. A day out in Kamakura is easily done for under $60. I’ve done my best to list the costs throughout the post so you can plan accordingly.

When to Leave & How much time to Spend in Kamakura

I ALWAYS advise leaving Tokyo as early as you can, around 7:30 am if possible. This means you can nap a bit on the hour-long journey but miss the rush hour traffic. Leaving at 7:30 am means you’ll arrive in Kamakura around 8:30 – 9:00 am. This leaves you LOTS of time to leisurely explore the city. If you want to eliminate a few shrines from this guide, you can also plan this as a half-day trip along with a visit to Enoshima. But this guide is prepared for a full day, so plan your time accordingly.

Shrine Etiquette

Much of this tour involves going into various temples and shrines. There are specific rules to keep in mind if you wish to be respectful when visiting.

Wash Your Hands

At the entrance to the shrine, you’ll find a large area of running water with a basin and ladle. This is meant for you to wash your hands and clean yourself before entering the sacred space. Take the ladle from the basin and hold it in your right hand. Take a scoop of water and pour it over your left hand. Then reverse hands and repeat. Before putting the ladle back, dip it back in the water and tilt it upwards to send a stream of water down the handle. Cleansing it one last time.

Keep Quiet

Ensure that when you enter a temple, you keep as silent as possible. Most interiors do not allow photography of any kind, so be sure to respect this rule if enforced. Your phone on silent to be sure you do no interrupt someone’s prayer.

Praying and Offerings

When leaving an offering, gently drop a coin into the “saisen-bako” or offertory box. This is a large wooden trough with vertical slats to drop your coin into located in from of the Shinto shrine. Five-yen coins are considered good luck while a ten-yen coin is thought to be unlucky.

If there is a bell in front of the shrine and you have left your offering you can take the rope and ring the bell. This is thought to alert the kami (or spirits) of your presence. After you ring the bell you bow twice, clap your hands twice and then bow once more. This is the way to greet the kami after ringing the bell.

If you wish to pray in front of any of the Buddist statues we will see on the tour, simply hold your hands together in silent prayer.

Start your Tour at Kita-Kamakura Station

Your arrival in Kamakura will begin at Kita-Kamakura station. “Kita” in Japanese means “north” as this station is slightly north of the city center and main train station. What I love about coming right into a smaller countryside station is you immediately feel the difference from the big city. The station has just two platforms and a tiny entrance gate.

Engaku-ji Temple

Just on the other side of the train tracks is the entrance to Engaku-ji Temple. This temple complex is one of the most important Zen Buddhist temples in all of Japan. A tall staircase is nestled in the heart of this incredible cedar forest, leading you into the temple. The first building built here was made in 1282. It was made in honour of the fallen soldiers of the second invasion of the Mongols. Despite the original date of its construction, since the buildings were all made of wood, multiple fires have damaged and destroyed them throughout the ages. Therefore many of the current incarnations are reconstructions of the original designs.

Admission 300 yen for adults and 100 yen for children

The complex opens at 8 am, just as the morning sun begins to rise. I can still smell the morning dew on the cedar needles as I walked up the staircase.

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Sanmon

When you walk up the temple path, you begin by walking up a set of low stairs leading you up to this grand wooden gate. This is the Sanmon gate, a two-storey work of art that was rebuilt in 1785. Look close at the upper levles to find an intricate series of carvings.

The most crucial carving is that of the Bodhisattva statues, people on the path to enlightenment. There are also sixteen carvings of the arhats (those who have achieved nirvana) and the twelve yakshas (heavenly generals who protect the temple).

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Butsudan

A series of smaller structures seem to guide you towards the Butsudan or main hall. Large juniper trees lean in towards the entrance, keeping it safe from the elements around it. This is where the holy wooden statue of the Shaka Buddha is housed. This Buddha was made in the Kamakura period, around the 13th century. The Shaka Buddha is different from other Buddha images as this one is crowned with a golden headband. There are also two other statues of the Bonten and Taishakuten in the hall, dating back to 1692.

Look up at the ceiling inside and soak in the splendour of the beautiful dragon painting on the roof. This was painted under the supervision of one of Japan’s greatest contemporary painters; Season Maeda, around 1945. Seison Maeda moved to Kamakura after his home in the city was destroyed during a bombing raid. He lived just on the other side of the Kita-Kamakura Station, where he could see the temple complex from his window. He lived there until his death at the age of 92 and is buried at a nearby temple.

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One of my favourite parts Engaku-ji is the pathway leading towards the back of the complex. There, you’ll find a perched series of buildings set over top of a small pond. Above them, the swell of the forest crashes over the rooftops. It is such a sight to see!

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Sharidan

Towards the back of the complex, you’ll find a small, single-storied building with a steep pent roof covered in ancient cypress park shingles. This catches your eye right away as its design is so unique. The Sharidan, while small in size, houses the most precious items from the temple’s collection: a tooth from the Buddha themself. This is considered a National Treasure and the building which houses it, a reliquary.

White Deer Cave

Opposite the Sharidan, follow the path, to find a smaller marker indicating the White Deer Cave. On the opening day of the temple complex, when the preacher came out to give her sermon, it was said that a white deer emerged from this cave to listen to him. This was seen as a much auspicious event, and to this day, the cave is protected to ensure the mystical white deer is not disturbed.

Bentendo

Head back towards where you entered, but instead of going back down the stairs, head towards the complex’s south-east end. There you will find a stone torii gate leading to another set of stairs. This takes you through the forest once more into the Bentendo.

The stairs seem to go up and up, further into the woods. When you reach the top, your walk will be rewarded with an incredible lookout over the hills and mountains of Kamakura. The temple up here is dedicated to Benten or Benzaiten, goddess of wealth, happiness, wisdom and music.

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There is also a tea house here with a simple series of benches to sit and enjoy your macha. I would highly recommend taking a break for tea here as the views are stunning. Just outside the Bentendo is a small structure containing the Great Bell. This large copper bell is 2.6 meters tall and one of the largest in Kamakura. It was made in the 12th century and is a real piece of history.

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Tokei-ji

Head back down to Kita-Kamakura Station and walk two minutes down the road towards Tokei-ji. Tokei-ji is a Buddist temple and formal nunnery. Nunneries are a real rarity to find in Japan and only five nunneries actually still survive.

Admission: 200 yen for adults and 100 yen for children.

In Japan, nunneries were a sanctuary for women who had been abused by their husbands and needed to escape. In the 13th century, divorce was not an option for these women. Running to a nunnery was their only way to get out of the bad situation they were in. For this reason, the temple also goes by the nickname “Divorce Temple“. Over 200 years, over 2,000 women came here to seek refuge. In the late 19th century, once women were able to initiate divorce themselves, the temple was converted into a monastery.

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Flowers Garden

Other than the temple’s rich history, people often come here to see the beautiful flower garden. Throughout the year the garden blooms all around the temple complex. The cherry blossom trees are magnificent to see in the Springtime. It seems fitting that a temple dedicated to protecting women would be surrounded by such stunning of natural beauty.

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Amidst the gardens, you’ll find the beautiful statue of the Buddha. Peacefully sitting among the pine and cedar trees, he looks our serenely at you as you approach. As if granting you a moment of gentle acknowledgment. The buddha is in abhaya mudra position. The gesture of blessing represents protection, peace, benevolence and the dispelling of fear. No doubt it brought lots of comfort to the women who came here to escape their cruel husbands.

Cemetery

One of the most serene parts of the temple complex is towards the back, deep in the forest. Here you will find a small graveyard where many different Japanese celebrities have been buried. In Japan, it is important to leave items atop the graves of your family members. These items represent things they once loved in life and how the living continue to pay respect to the dead.

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Meigetsuin Street

Exit the temple and walk back to the road. Follow the road south towards the river crossing. Walk beside the river’s edge, along Meigetsuin Street. This street will begin to go uphill quickly as you moved into the thick of Kamakura’s hillside. The road is narrow, but the street is popular with the visitor as well. You’ll often find street vendors on either side of the road selling souvenirs and street food. The houses along the route are beautiful examples of historic countryside houses.

Ishikawa Coffee

The further you walk along the street, the fewer tourist you’ll find will be walking with you. It begins to feel like you are entering an area that is just residential. But continue onwards and soak in the beauty which is this quiet area. After around 10 minutes, you should reach your destination, which is Ishikawa Coffee. The coffee shop feels like a secret hideaway in the mountains, and maybe that’s why the coffee tastes so good. There are lots of delicious baked goods here to recharge your system for the rest of the day. While the 10-minute hike up to the coffee shop might seem like a long side-quest just for coffee but it gives you a reason to see the lovely rural houses of the people who live in Kamakura. Plus you get a little reward at the end.

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Enoden Line

Jump back on the metro at Kita-Kamakura Station and head one-stop to Kamakura station. At Kamakura station, you can change lines onto the historic Enoden Line. The Enoden line only covers 10 kilometres of track across this area of Japan but it is a truly scenic 10 kilometres. It was established in 1902 to connected Kamakura to various famous spots like Enoshima Shrine, Iwaya Caves, the beach and more.

One of the things that make this train line so popular is the rail cars’ iconic design. These look like they are straight from anime cartoons with their retro, brightly coloured exteriors. The trains are so iconic they even have little gatchapon toys you can buy outside the stations. For 300 yen it’s a great little souvenir of your time on the Enoden.

Train to Hase Station: 340 yen

Hasedera Temple

Ride the Enoken to Hase Station. Five minutes from the station, you walk over to Hasedera Temple, for which the train station is named. When you arrive at Hasedera Temple, the first thing you will notice is the iconic pine tree that leans towards the entrance to the temple. As if protecting it from the elements. The Hasedera temple is a Buddhist temple built into the mountain “Kannon-zan.” It is most famous for the massive wooden statue of Kannon that is housed in the temple on top of the mountain.

Admission: 400 yen for adults and 200 yen for children under 12

Gardens

When you enter through the ticket booth, you step right into the beautiful gardens—these welcome visitors with a spread of blooms throughout the year. In the winter, you can find ume blossoms and narcissus sprouting up..

Benten-kutsu Cave

To the right of the entrance, be sure to visit the mysterious Benten-kutsu Cave. The Benten or Benzaiten cave was a sacred place where the Buddist saint, Kobo Dashi, practiced in the seclusion. Inside the candle-lit cave is a large statue of the Benzaiten as well as 16 of her followers.

The Benzaiten is one of the female goddesses of Buddism, who represents feminine beauty and wealth. Inside the cave you’ll find thousands of tiny wooden carvings of the Benzaiten, playing her biwa. The Biwa is an ancient Japanese instrument, essentially a long neck lute. It was traditionally used in narrative storytelling. You can buy a minature of her for 300 yen and leave it here in your honour. Or just keep it as a souvenir, either way, the money goes towards the temple.

Jizo Bodhisattva

Inari Shrine

Shoro Belfry

Amida Hall

Hondo, Main Hall

Restaurant and Cafe

Atop the hill, there is a panoramic view of Yuigahama Beach. You can enjoy the view while sitting outside the cafeteria on the long communal tables.

Get something to drink or have a cold ice cream cone to enjoy in the summertime. Either way, this is the best place to see over all of Kamakura.

Prospect Path

Kyōzō

Great Daibutsu at Kotoku-in

A short 7-minute walk from Hasedera temple brings you to the gates of Kōtoku-in. Kōtoku-in is home to perhaps the most impressive monument of Kamakura, the Great Daibutsu. ‘Daibutsu‘ is the Japanese word for “giant Buddha.”

Admission: 200 yen for adults and 150 yen for children.

Walking in the front gates, you can immediately see the Buddha rising in front of the mountains in the background. As you enter, there is a plaque that reads: “Stranger, whosoever thou art and whatsoever be thy creed, when thou enterest this sanctuary remember thou treadest upon ground hallowed by the worship of ages. This is the Temple of Buddha and the gate of the eternal, and should therefore be entered with reverence.”

History of the Great Daibutsu

The 43 ft tall bronze statue has been sitting in the same spot since 1252. The first incarnation of the statue was made in wood in 1243. The wooden statue took many years to be completed. But after all that work, the wooden sculpture was destroyed by a great storm in 1248. As a result, a new version was commissioned, and this one was to be made in bronze. The new bronze statue was finally completed in 1252, and it hasn’t moved since. I mean, it weighs 93 tonnes; I don’t think it’s going anywhere.

Originally the Buddha was housed inside a great hall. But year after year, the hall was destroyed by Kamakura’s rough seaside weather. After the most violent storm in 1369, the rebuilding of the hall was abandoned. Since then the statue has remained in the open air. And I think I far prefer it this way. The gorgeous contrast of the bronze buddha against the bright blue sky is one of the most stunning images.

Details of the Buddha

At one point, the great Buddha was covered in gold gilding. Only a few gold pieces remain around the ears and cheeks, the rest lost to the ages. On either side of the Buddha are two incredible carvings of climbing lotus blossoms. Originally there were 10 of these surrounding the Buddha. But the rest were either stolen or lost over time.

The design of the Buddha was made in the “song style.” This was the prevalent method of sculpture art in the Kamakura period. This style is represented by the bowl-shaped hair strands, a flat, square face, stooped posture and oversized head. The clothes which the Buddha wears over their shoulders are a simple, single piece of fabric. This remains slightly open around the chest as if to express a sliver of mortality. Unlike some Buddha statues, which have a raised hand, this statue sits with its hands on its knees. This is the position of contemplation and grounding. Because the figure is hollow, you can even stick your head inside and get a look at the interior. There is a winding staircase inside the Buddha which was used when creating it and is also used for repairs.

Yuigahama Beach

Before heading back to the train station, walk down from the temple directly to Yuigahama Beach! It would be such a shame to come all this way without enjoying some time on the sand. There is a 7-Eleven and a Family Mart on the way back to the beach, which you can stop off at to get yourself everything you need for a lovely beach picnic.

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Yuigahama Beach offers views of Enoshima Island. The beach itself is filled with rich iron sands and you can find lots of pretty little shells along the shore. The coast is very popular with the locals during the summer months. There are even places that rent chairs and umbrellas to sit out under on the sand. In the summer, there are also street vendors selling the popular Japanese shaved ice dessert; kakigori!

Komachi-dori

Once you are finished at the beach, jump back on the Enoden train and head back over to Kamakura station. From the station, head outside and over to Komachi Street. You’ll be able to spot the street from the station by the large red torii gate, which marks the entrance.

Train from Hase to Kamakura: 200 yen

Komachi Street or Komachi-dori is one of the six historic main roads that formed the initial layout of the city of Kamakura. Today, the street is the most popular shopping area for residents and tourists alike. You can find everything from souvenirs to local treats and lovely restaurants. While the street is pretty busy, don’t let that put you off, as everyone is here to enjoy all the amazing things to eat and drink in Kamakura! Because the road is so popular, it is designated as a pedestrian-only zone. Komachi Street is a great place to wander along and try out different local street foods. While there are many traditional Japanese classics, you need to try a few unique ones local to Kamakura!

Komachi Chaya

Kakigori 1,420 yen | Tea Set 680 yen

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KYO Kamakura

Zunda Daifuku 160 yen

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Hannari Inari

One of Kamakura’s most famous local delicacies is Shirasu, or whitebait. These tiny fish are like minature sardines and are usually served raw, in a large amount as they are so small. Because eating them just on their own can be a little intimidating if you’re not used to eating a pile of tiny fish with faces, Hannari Inari has an excellent option for you. They have recently come up with the ‘Shirasuka.’ The Shirasuka is a Japanese omelette filled with Shirasu. These are served on a stick to be easily eaten on the go. The fish adds an umami flavour to the egg and balances out its sweetness.

Shirasu & Tamago: 270 yen

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Kamakurayama Rusk

Five Star Rusks: 480 yen

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Kamakura Ichibanya

Fresh Seibei: 50 yen a piece

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Sakura no Yumemiya

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Each one costs between 170 and 240 yen

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Kamakura Mameya

Kamakura Mameya is best known for the candy-coloured dried nuts and legumes. This place is so popular among the locals so prepare to wait. Inside you’ll find peanuts, Komachi beans, soybeans, Koiso pea, broad beans, as well as dried seasonal produce like grapes, tangerines and Sakura. Each one of these treats is covered in brightly coloured toppings making everything look like a piece of candy even when it is actually pretty healthy!

The bags vary in price depending on the item you pick but each one is around 200-500 yen

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Momiji Chaya

Tiramisu: 600 yen or 900 yen for the drink set

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Kamakura Karari

If you enjoyed the Shirasu omelette earlier, I would implore you to try out a Shirasu-don. This is a whitebait rice bowl. The Shirasu served like this really brings out the fish’s flavour more and is one of the most traditional ways to enjoy the local catch of the day. While other shops usually serve the Shirasu raw, Kamakura Karari also offers it broiled or cooked in a tempura fritter! I opted for the fritter, and it was amazing!

Shirasu-don Rice Bowl: 1,580 yen

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Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū

To finish the day off, let’s spend the last few hours of sunlight at the most important shrine in Kamakura; Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū. Despite the fact it is one of the most important, it is also one of the newest shrines. That being said, it is still almost 1000 years old!

Admission: The Shrine is free to explore but the museum costs 200 yen to enter

Minamoto no Yoritomo

Shogunate Minamoto no Yoritomo was the founder of the Kamakura. When he became Shogunate, his first task was to move the captial of Japan from Kyoto to his home in Kamakura. Kamakura was previously a simple fishing village. When it became the capital they essentially had a fresh space to create a capital city. The second task Minamoto did was to move the Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū shrine to Kamakura from its previous location in Zaimokuza.

Hachiman

The Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū shrine is dedicated to the god Hachiman. Hachiman is the divine protector of Japan. He is known as the “god of martial arts” as he was the great patron deity of the samurai. Moving the temple of Hachiman also meant moving the nation’s best warriors to reside in the new location in order to protect this new government.

The name “Hachiman” means “eight banners.” Emperor Ōjin is the divine spirit of the deity Hachiman, and it is the legend that when he was born, eight heavenly banners flew through the sky, carried by doves, to signal his birth. You will find images of doves used as talismans in reference to Emperor Ōjin.

Genpei Ponds

Walking up to the shrine, the first thing which greets you is a large red torii gate. Opposite the red torii gate is a low-lying stone bridge that crosses two ponds on either side. The two Genpei ponds represent the Minamoto clan on the left and the Taira clan on the right. The Taira clan was the bitter rival of Shogun Minamoto. On the left side which is in honour of the Minamoto clan, the pond has three little islands. The number three in Japan symbolizes birth. The pond on the right, on the other hand, has four islands. The number four represents death, corresponding with the pond associated with the rival clan. Perhaps used as an omen and warning to those who come to the shrine with cruel intentions.

Living inside the pond are many different coloured koi fish and cute softshell turtles. There are lots of waterfowl too, creating a constant flurry of activity in the trees and water. In the summertime, the entirety of the water’s surface is blooming with lotus flowers and is such a sight to see!

Feng Shui Layout

Because the new Shogun had complete control of his new captial city’s design, he wanted to ensure that it was built with Feng Shui in mind.
Feng Shui is a Chinese principle that focuses on the natural forces on earth. The idea is that these forces can be harmonized and controlled to create power and good fortune. One way this is done is by the orientation of building around these invisible forces. Many principles of Feng Shui were kept in mind when designing the layout of the shrine. They had consulted the royal diviner who chose this place as it had a mountain to the north, a river to the east, a great road to the west and an opening to the south.

Taiko Bridge

Walking up towards the first bridge might find that both sides of the larger stone bridge are closed off by a red gate. This is because this bridge was reserved for the Shogunate only. The common folk needed to use a flatter bridge on either side to access the shrine. Despite the fact that the shogun of Kamakura is long dead the tradition remains as a memory to him. To the left of the shogun bridge, stands an ancient plum pine tree.

Hataage Benzaiten Shrine

After crossing the bridge, walk out onto the pond towards the Hataage Benzaiten Shrine. This can be found to the right of the entrance. A series of white flags mark this shrine. Each of these flags is a prayer left by visitors. If you wish to purchase your own flag to leave on the island you can purchase one near the shrine. If you have google translate downloaded on your phone you can use this to help translate some of the prayers left behind. Like a wave of wishes blowing in the wind.

Archery Track

As you continue down the complex, you’ll see a large crossing on either side of you. This is the ancient archery track. This was where the traditional Yabusame Shinto ritual would take place. This Shinto ritual would occur once a year. All the best samurai would come here to compete against each other for the glory of the shogun. They would mount their hoses and attempt to shoot three targets while riding at full speed down the track.

The event was started when the new Shogun realized that his archers lacked skills with their bow. He thought this would give them a good incentive to practice. Even today, a festival is held yearly in the fall where people dress in costume and perform the ritual just the great samurai would have years ago.

Maiden

The building at the base of the stairs is called the Maiden or Shimoden. The most famous woman in Japanese history and literature was a Shizuka Gozen or Lady Shizuka. She was a court dancer and mistress of Minamoto no Yoshitsune. Shizuka Gozen devoted herself to Minamoto and would dance for him with a passion that would entrance all those who watched. Famously, she would come here to perform some of her most memorable productions. Today, the Maiden is still a popular spot for dances and musical performances. As well as weddings and festivals which are held here throughout the year.

Every morning at the Maiden, people gather to offer rice, sake, vegetables, fruits, and other offerings to Hachiman. Locals come to pray for the prosperity of the Imperial Family and the nation. This ritual is called onikkusai.

In addition to paying your respects to Hachiman okami, you can also come to pray for the safety of your family and the health of your body.

Sake Rice Baskets

Off to the left of the Maiden, you’ll see a large structure filled with giant sake barrels. Different sake producers will donate large sums of money to the shrines in order to ensure good fortune for their companies. These barrels are only ceremonial and do not contain any real sake but they are still such a beautiful thing to look at.

Shirahata Shrine

On the eastern side of the lower level, you will find the Shirahata Shrine, also called the Junior Shrine. This is where the spirit of Minamoto Yoritomo and Minamoto Sanetomo are enshrined. The dark wood of the shrine is painted black and embellished with gold trim. Many people come to this shrine to pray for victory in honour of the great shogun.

Masako stone

Right beside the shrine, you’ll find the Masako stones. When you pour water on the rocks, an image of a turtle or a crane will appear. Both the crane and the turtle represent longevity as it is fabled that cranes and turtles have life spans of thousands of years. Pour some water on the rocks to pray for some life longevity for yourself!

Soreisha

On the western side of the complex, you’ll find this old, seemingly forgotten building. This is the Soreisha, the shrine dedicated to the ancestor spirits. Many people seem to miss this building and it is one of the most peaceful areas of the place. It is a newer shrine, erected in 1949. The spirits which are said to reside here are thought to protect the land and people come here to pray for their own protection.

Ginko Tree

The staircase leading to the main shrine is flanked on either side by two trees. But you might notice that the one on the left is significantly smaller. This was once where a great ginkgo tree once stood for over 1000 years. It was a precious treasure of the nation and a holy place for pilgrims.

In March 2010, a huge storm came through and uprooted the tree. Although great efforts were made to replant it, the tree could not be saved in its entirety. Because the tree was so important, the trunk was replanted in the hopes it would reproduce leaves (which it since has). Other cuttings were also replanted, and they have even begun to multiply and regrown.

The tree was said to have played a large part in the assassination of shōgun Minamoto no Sanetomo in 1219. The assassin, his nephew, hid in the tree as his uncle was leaving the shrine. When he walked down the stairs, his nephew jumped from the tree and attacked. He thought this act would enable him to become the next Shogun, but the public didn’t support his succession, and instead, he was beheaded the same day for his actions.

Stairway

The large stairway leading up to the main shrine contains 61 steps. 61 in an interesting number as it is thought to be unlucky. Perhaps the uprooting of the tree and the assassination were both brought about by the unlucky omens of the stairs.

Main Shrine Jugo

As you climb the stairs, you pass through the Sakura Gate to enter the main shrine, the Jogu. This building was recently renovated in the 21st century when the previously plain wood was repainted in this bright vermillion. The main shrine enshrines Emperor Ojin, Himegami and Empress Jingu.

On the front of the shrine is a black sign with gold lettering. The Japanese character at the top represents a dove which is the messenger used by the deity Hachiman.

Gingko Emas

At most shrines you can buy an ema, a wood plaque, to leave your prayers on. The emas at this shrine are printed with the image of the great ginkgo tree.

You can also get yourself a souvenir omikuji or random paper fortune outside the shrine. You can get on here for 200 yen that comes with your fateful prediction as well as a dove charm in honour of the deity Hachiman. When you open the fortune, should it be unlucky, fold the paper in a thin strip and place it inside the nearby “bad luck box.” Place your hand around the arrow above the box as this is said to help remove the bad luck.

Treasure Hall

The main shrine is separated into three areas, the main sanctuary, the treasure hall and the worship hall, each connected through long hallways. The Treasure Hall is located on the west side of the main sancutary and contains sacred items from the history of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. This is the only part of the temple complex which requires admission (200 yen).

Inside, you can find such things as samurai swords from the 18th century, black lacquer arrows, 19th-century bows and quivers, and a series of ceremonial kimonos.

Maruyama Inari Shrine

On the western side of the Jogu, you will find the Senior Shrine, the Maruyama Inari Shrine. This is the oldest remaining shrine on the grounds. Standing guard outside this part of the shrine we find the Inari who are kami foxes. Kami are Japanese spirits. The fox spirits are thought to bring fertility to the land and are often seen as the spirits of agriculture.

To the right of the shrine, you’ll find a series of torii gates. Walking down the hillside through the torii gates will lead you back down to the lower level. The flags which appear in front of the torii gates have been purchased by those who pray for prosperity in their businesses. These are often the most costly prayers and only large companies are featured here.

Before leaving, take a seat in the rest area just opposite the large pond. During certain times of the year, purple wisteria grows all over the canopy. This beautiful scene is the perfect place to end your time at the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine.

Dankazura

As you start to head back to the train station, we walk down the pedestrian walkway or dankazura. The Dankazura is a stunning alley flanked on either side by beautiful sakura trees and brightly coloured flower gardens.

Ni no Torii

At the end of the alley, you come to the Ni no Torii, the final torii gate. On either side of this torii gate are two large guardian lion-dogs. The one on the left has its mouth open forming the Sanskrit letter “A”. On the other hand, the one right has its mouth closed forming the sound of the Sanskrit letter “MA”. Together the lions are attempting to sound out “Aum” which is a sacred sound and mantra practiced in Buddhism.

This brings us to the end of the tour. If you’re still hungry and didn’t eat all you could along Komachi Street, you can head over there before your train back to Tokyo leaves from Kamakura station. I hope you enjoyed this day-trip from the big city and felt like the sun, shrines, and seaside rejuvenated your body and spirit.

Let me know in the comment what your favourite part of Kamakura was or what you are most looking forward to seeing!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Kamakura Day Trip Itinerary; Shrines, Sea and Shirasu! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Best Self Guided Tour of Enoshima Island; Amazing Day Trip from Tokyo

The Creative Adventurer — Mon, 24 Dec 2018 14:46:59 +0000

If you’re looking for a peaceful day trip from Tokyo, Enoshima is the ticket. This tiny little island off the coast is one of the most serene and beautiful places I had the chance to visit on my last trip to Japan. It was so perfect and quaint it felt like a cartoon seaside village from a Miyazaki film. Hiking up and down the island you’ll be able to see stunning shrines, perfectly manicured parks, a secret garden, and if you’re VERY VERY lucky, a wonderful view of Mount Fuji. Mount Fuji is known as the shy mountain so don’t expect to see anything but feel lucky if you do. The island itself is inaccessible to vehicles, making it an incredibly quiet location, and walking up the hills, sometimes the only sounds which can be heard the birds and wind through the trees.

Access

Enoshima is accessible by three train, each of which has its separate station. Depending on where you’re departing from will determine which line is best for your trip. If you’re departing from Tokyo the best options is the express train from Shinjuku station which will take you to Fujisawa station. From here you can board a local train to Katase Enoshima Station. One way tickets for this route costs 630 yen and takes around 65-75 minutes. If you’re planning on visiting Kamakura and other locations around the area, consider buying the Odakyu Railways Enoshima/Kamakura Free Pass which is 1470 yen and gives you unlimited use of trains between Fujisawa and Kamakura and Odakyu trains between Fujisawa and Enoshima.

The Legend of Enoshima

Understanding the legend which surrounds this island will help you understand the people and the history of this place.

There was once an evil dragon, with five heads, who settled in the bottomless swamp among the mountains of Fujisawa and tormented the people of the village. The peasants feared the dragon like no other as he would steal their children away in the middle of the night. Then, one day, an immense clouds enveloped the sea, and an earthquake erupted. From the clouds emerged a heavenly maiden, Benzaiten, and from the sea she brought with her an island, Enoshima Island. The dragon fell in love with the maiden and proposed to her but she refused him because of all the evil things he had done.

The dragon spent the next few years trying to mend his evil ways. He even turned himself into stone to show her how much he loved her. Eventually, the maiden forgave the dragon for the things he had done wrong and freed him from the stone mountain which had formed around him. After he was set free, they were married. Today the maiden Benzaiten still guards Enoshima along with the dragon, who now also protects the Islanders.

Beaches

If you’re visiting Japan in the summer, the city can get pretty warm so escaping to a beach might be just what you need on one of those hot, humid days. Enoshima has some of the best beaches close to Tokyo and although they can get crowded, arrive early to pitch your towel and relax on the sand all morning long. Japanese crowds are so polite and organized, even if it’s crowded when you arrive you’ll find it easy to squeeze in.

Should I get the Enoshima Day Pass?

The Enoshima Day Pass (separate from the Odakyu Railway Pass) costs 1000 yen and gives you access to the Samuel Cocking Garden, observation tower and the caves as well as the use of the escalators used to get up and down the island’s hills. You can always buy individual tickets for the escalators but they cost 300 yen each way. The gardens with observation access and the caves each cost 500 yen to enter so the pass pays for itself in those fees alone. But that’s only if you’re planning on visiting these two sites. If not, the pass isn’t worth it.

If you do end up with the pass and you’re feeling a little tired by the time you near the top, you’ll be able to ride the escalators free of charge! I still prefer the stairs myself but if you have a disability or just aren’t feeling up to it that day, the pass is definitely a good choice.

Dragon’s Gate

Walking from the train station towards the island, across the causeway, is one of my favourite parts of visiting the island. The pedestrian walkways towards the island is wonderfully decorated with statues and fantastically manicured gardens, framing the ascent to the island perfectly. As you approach, you’ll pass through the dragon-shaped stone lanterns which are the gatekeepers of the island. It’s amazing how different the landscape here is from Tokyo, you can smell the air blowing off the ocean.

Waterfront

The waterfront on Enoshima island on the north side is vastly different front the south, were the famed Iwaya caves are located. This part of the island has a steep drop off towards the waters looking out at Sagami Bay. There is a small park along the waterfront with a few dozen small sculptures to gaze at. This park is dedicated to both the Olympics, held here in 1964 as well as representations of the Goddess Benten whom the entire island is named after. I decided this was a great place to have a quick snack before my hike up the hill.

Nakamise Shopping Street

As you approached the staircase towards the first shrine you’ll pass under a large set of bronze torii gates. Behind these gates are dozens of souvenir shops and small restaurants. These are all run by locals and have an immense charm to them. So even if the items their selling don’t seem super bespoke to Enoshima, they are still a pleasure to browse inside.

Enoshima Torii Gates

At the end of Nakamise Street you’ll find yourself approaching the bright vermillion Torii gates, before Enoshima Shrine. These torii gates symbolise the passing from the mortal realm into the realm of the gods. As you pass through, try to clear your mind, and connect with yourself in a deep and meaningful way. I find that when travelling sometimes things are so busy and hectic and this moment is a reminder to reflect and remember instead of just go, go, go.

Zuishinmon

Past the torii gates is a large wooden tower, this is the ‘Zuishinmon Gate’. The design of the tower was based on a fairytale underwater palace called ‘Ryugujyo’. On the underside of the structure are carvings of peonies and lions on the walls and ceilings. These symbolize a prayer to protect the Goddess and their worshippers.

Benzaiten Goddess statue

Behind the tower gate you’ll meet face to face the Benzaiten goddess. Here she sits, carved in stone, nestled in with her follows, surrounded by the fabled dragon whom she defeated for the people. This statue was made in 1450 yet feels so fresh and new, despite its age.

Entering Enoshima Shrine

The Enoshima Shrine, is made up of three main buildings. The Hetsumiya, the Ho-an-den and the Nakatsumiya. Before entering any of the buildings, be sute to stop by the ‘temizuya‘. The temizuya or chōzuya is a Shinto water absolution pond for a ceremonial purification rite known as temizu. To perform the ritual, just fill the ladle provided with water and wash your left hand, then your right, and if you want, drink some of the water and spit it out to cleanse your mouth. If you’re scared to do it wrong, simply watch others and you’ll get the hang of it in no time. It feels nice to participate in this ritual as it connects you with the spiritual nature of the shrine itself.

Hetsumiya

The main building in one this level is the Hetsumiya. The original wooden building with a traditional copper winged roof, was built in 1620 by Minamono no Sanetomo, the third Shogun of Kamakura Shogunate. The current version was re-built in 1976 in the exact style as the original. Inside this buildings is where the Tagitsuhime-no-Mikoto are enshrined. The Tagitsuhime-no-Mikoto are three sister goddess who are known to control the seas, which feels so appropriate as you are surrounded by the sea on all sides on the island.

Inside the Shrine you’ll see a large metal box where you can make an offering. If you’ve never made an offering at a shrine before here is how you do it. Stand in front of the offertory box, throw a coin into the box, bow twice towards the shrine, then clap your hands twice and think deep in your mind of the wish you want to come true. Then, finish the ritual by bowing deeply towards the offertory box once more. A little wish for luck never hurt anyone and you can feel good that your money is going towards keeping the shrine up and running.

Chinowa

Beside the Hetsumiya you might be puzzled by a green ring standing off to the side. This is the chinowa, an object used to cleanse your mind and body as you pass through the ring. It is said to remove all your wrongdoings and impurities.

Ho-an-den

The Ho-an-den is a small, bright red, octagonal building where you can see the famous statue of the deity Benzaiten. This building costs 200 yen to enter and is the only shrine on the island which requires payment to enter. Unlike many other statues of the Benzaiten, this one is nude, sitting on a pedestal playing a biwa. Benzaiten is very important to women, as she is the only female deity of the seven gods of fortune. If you are really interested in the statue it’s worth visiting but I personally prefer the statue you see on your way up the stairs and had a better time admiring the fantastical exterior architecture of the building instead of going inside.

Ema

If you’re feeling unlucky in love, be sure to buy an ’ema’. An ema is wooden prayer plaque from the shrine where you can write your wish for love onto. Then hang it with the rest of the wishes, blowing gently in the wind atop the island. This shrine is fabled to be particularly good for matchmaking!

Nakatsunomiya Square

Before heading up to the next level, spend some time wondering around Nakatsunomiya Square. This little garden with a observation deck of the city below, is always full of seasonal blooms and if you’re lucky enough to visit during Cherry Blossom season, you’ll be in for a real treat. Since these trees and their blooms up here are perfectly hidden away from the crowds you have a much better chance of getting to experience Japan’s most popular symbol without fighting for space.

Nakatsunomiya Shrine

The second shrine site on the island is found just around the corner and up the hill from Enoshima Shrine. This is Nakatsunomiya, the oldest shrine on the island, established in 853 by the Buddhist monk En-nin. The frieze above the door to the shrine contains over 154 carvings of various real and mythological flora and fauna popular on the island. You could stand here for hours and never be able to find them all.

Samuel Cocking Garden

The Samuel Cocking Gardens were built in 1880 by British merchant Samuel Cocking. Cocking collected tropical plants from every corner of the world he travelled to but he settled in Japan after finding love on the island. Originally the Japanese government only allowed locals to purchase land but when the laws where changed, Cocking saw his chance to buy up some of the best real estate on the island.

After the couples passing, the title of the gardens was passed onto the city of Fujisawa who saw it’s reconstruction after the great earthquake. Today, you can explore a variety of flowers found not only in Japan but all over the world. From February to March there are 250 different breeds of camellia flowers blooming and from May to October dazzling crimson roses from Canada begin to blossom. My favourite part of the gardens was the dynamic landscaping. There were archways created with hanging baskets, gazebos surrounded in blooms and beautiful mazes you could wander in dazzling colours.

Enoshima Sea Candle

In the middle of the garden stands the giant 200 foot tall Enoshima Sea Candle. From the observation tower you can see all across Enoshima, Fujisawa and beyond. On a rare clear day, you have an absolutely stunning view of Mount Fuji. The Day I visited the Mountain was unfortunately still in hiding, but the view just down to the lush green gardens was incredible and well worth the money to come up the tower. I loved looking out across the brilliant blue seas. Living in a city not near an ocean, there is something truly mesmerizing to me about the ocean and I could have stared at it for hours.

Enoshima Daish

Past the Gardens, you’ll come upon the unmistakable Buddhist temple of Enoshima Daishi. During the Meiji Period, there was a governmental separation between Shintoism and Buddhism. Buddhist temples all over Japan were destroyed and it wasn’t until the 1990’s that Enoshima residents had the chance to rebuild one of their most important temples on the island, Enoshima Daishi. Standing in front of the steps into the temple are two huge, six-meter tall statues of Fudomyo, the protector of Buddhism. Staring up at them as you enter is an intimidating process and made me a little skittish when stepping down into the temple, but I guess that just means they’re doing their job.

Inside the temple, there is a blend of modern and traditional Japanese architecture. But what continues to stand the test of the time is the peaceful feeling you get when you come inside the incense soaked temple. There was a man praying when I came inside who later told me he had come all the way from Kyoto just to pray here today, and it made the temple’s significance all the more powerful to me.

Enoshima Pilgrimage Path

Descending down from the top of Enoshima is almost as much work as climbing up. It’s around 250 steps down to the bottom but the journey downwards provides so many different things to see along the way. This pathway is known as Oiwaya-michi or the Pilgrimage way. This pathway was taken by thousands of people over the year who made their way to the Iwaya Caves. Various houses found along the stairways are covered in beautiful seashells, a testament to the love of the sea which these residents have. As you descend, you’ll get amazing views of the cliff side and the sea below. One of the views to the left of the staircase is down to Yama-futatsu, a vallery where the mountain to the east and west connect.

Okutsunomiya Shrine

As you descend from the top of the island you’ll come upon the last of the shrines, this is Okutsunomiya Shrine or “Shrine of the Deep”. Inside this shrine it is said that the sea goddess rests during the winter inside a cave and when the summer returns, the goddess will emerge once more to protect the sea. The stone torri gate which welcomes you into the shrine is from 1138, a gift from the Shogun of Kamakura.

The two red lanterns on either side of the shrine depict Otohime (on the right) and Urashima Taro (on the left). Otohime is the princess of the undersea palace Ryūgū-jō and Urashima Tarō is the fabled fisherman who, after recusing a sea turtle, is rewarded for his good deed by being brought to the undersea palace. For this turtle was no ordinary turtle, he was the all-seeing turtle of the deep. The fisherman was entertained and cared for inside the undersea palace by the princess. If you look closely on the ceiling of the shrine, you’ll see the All-seeing turtle from the story. The turtle is also called the one who watches all directions, since no matter which direction you look, the turtle appears to be looking right at you!

Set beside the temple you’ll see a large stone surrounded by the paper lightning bolts which also are hung from torri gates. This stone is the Chikara-ishi. A Chikara-ishi is a “stone of strength” which are often seen at shrines as they represent the strength which the gods bestow upon their followers. This stone weighing 320kg, which is said to have been brought to the shrine by the most power man in the nation.

Wadatsumi-no-miya

Beside Okutsu-No-Miya-Jinja shrine you’ll find Wadatsumi-no-miya. Unlike the other shrines, this one is more like a rock cave, with a bright green dragon perched on top. This is Ryujin, the dragon god of the sea, and it is said that inside is where he is enshrined. You can peek your head inside the cave during the day through a small screen, and in the deep, dank dark, there was moment where I thought I saw a small pair of eye in the darkness…

Love Bell

A few steps up from the shrines, there is a small, overgrown trail which will lead you to a little hill with an incredible view of the ocean. Atop this hill stands the ‘Love Bell‘. Since the legend of Benten and the dragon falling in love with her is so important to the mythology of the island, this bell was purchased and placed here by local couples who wished to express their undying love for each other, much like the dragon and the goddess. Each of the donors had their names engraved on the structure surrounding the bell.

Every couple who now visits this site has their chance to ring the bell to announce their undying love to the dragon and maiden. Couples have begun leaving locks on the surrounding fence with the names engraved upon them. Every year the locks have to be removed so the fence does not collapse. So maybe the locks won’t last a lifetime, but hopefully, your love will.

Uonemotei

If I can suggest one place to eat on your tour of the island it HAS to be Uonemotei. This restaurant has been here for over 140 years. It has been serving locals and pilgrims alike delicious food, right from the sea. Sitting out on their patio you have a beautiful view of the ocean and can smell the refreshing sea breeze. The house special is the “Enoshima-don” which are young sardines served with turban shells and beaten eggs atop warm rice. This is the best thing you can eat to experience true Enoshima cuisine.

Iwaya caves

Unless you’re a HUGE fan of caves or have the Enoshima Day Pass, I would skip this. The reason being they are hugely touristy and crowded and you’ll have more fun exploring the rocky seaside around them instead. Inside the first cave you’ll find Buddhist statues, and in the second you’ll find a small pond dedicated to the dragon who used to terrorize the area. During the Nara era, Buddhist monks used to be trained here in the cave, so visiting the caves was somewhat of a pilgrimage for Buddhists all over the world. Overall though, it’s a pretty simple cave and your time and money is better spent elsewhere on the island unless you have the day pass.

Around the caves, you’ll see dozens of little reefs where local fisherman are almost always camped you trying to get the catch of the day. I had a relaxing time sitting out on the rocks, near where the waves would crash against the rocks, getting sprayed every time a huge wave would come in.

Ferry Boat

To head back to the train station, I recommend taking a ferry boat ride. Throughout the day there are little ferry boats which run back and forth from the mainland to the island. Head over to the Bentenmaru pier where you can board one of the little boats. The ride isn’t very long but seeing the island from the water is a very unique perspective that gives you an idea of the scope and size of Enoshima. It’s a great opportunity to step back, literally, and see the place you just came from from afar. Look right up high and you can see the top of the Enoshima Candle and the Enoshima flag which flies high above.

Enoshima is truly one of the best place to go to take a break from the city and get a breath of FRESH air. If you have even half a day, or better yet a whole day, you NEED to make your way out here and experience another side of life in Japan.

The post The Best Self Guided Tour of Enoshima Island; Amazing Day Trip from Tokyo first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.