One of the things I was most looking forward to doing when I visited Stockholm at Christmas was touring the city’s Christmas lights! Big cities are known for their elaborate light displays. Creating more and more intricate designs has become a way to garner tourism during the holidays. When I first booked my trip, I didn’t know anything about what I would expect to see. I was absolutely delighted when I found that Stockholm had an entire website dedicated to guiding guests throughout the outdoor light display. And although the official map looks beautiful, it can be challenging to follow and figure out the best route. So after touring the path multiple times throughout my stay over Christmas, I thought I would put together my own little guided tour with an attached google map so you can follow along as we go!
Spread across the city of Stockholm, there are over 40 streets and squares which have been festively decorated for the Holiday season. The stunning decorations are themed around Swedish Christmas traditions and iconography. Everything from moose, deer, mistletoe and stars seems to float around above your head, lighting up the dark days in even darker nights.
The Christmas lights are turned on Saturday November 12th at 3 pm in Kungsträdgården. They are taken down around January 13th, so you have plenty of time to see them. The lights come on every day at 2:00 pm. While this might seem early to you, the days get dark very dark early in Sweden. B by 2:00 pm, it’s dark enough for the lights to be seen. The lights generally get shut off around 10pm. But I found that they were left on for later in some areas—especially the most populated shopping streets.
The guided walking tour is located along city streets and is easily accessible to everyone. Because the lights are all located outside of the old town, this means you won’t need to go over cobblestone or down steep staircases. For the most part, the entire walking path is smooth, and some streets are entirely pedestrian-only.
The walking tour should be done at a leisurely pace. While we have specific stops marked along the way, you’ll discover your own unique treasures and hidden gems along the path. Take your time and explore everything you see! But in general, the walking tour should last about two-three hours. That’s enough time to explore but not so long as you get too cold. Be sure to stop into coffee shops and cafes along the route. The perfect way to warm up from the cold.
Start your walking tour on the south-east tip of the lights map, in front of the Operakällaren. The Operakällaren is one of Stockholm’s oldest restaurants, opening its door to the public in 1787. It quickly became one of the hottest places in the city, frequented by some of the most exciting artists and politicians. Today it is still one of the most exclusive restaurants in town, and as such a flush place, it really goes all out on its Christmas decor.
The restaurant’s ceiling is replete with hanging star lanterns, which can be seen from the street level. These paper lights are one of the oldest Swedish traditional pieces of decor. They originally were thought to represent the Star of Bethlehem and are so popular that Ikea sells them year-round worldwide. Outside of the restaurant is a gorgeous evergreen display that recreates the image of the great Swedish Gävle Goats pulling a Christmas sleigh.
Before heading to the east, we are taking a quick detour over to the NK building. NK or Nordiska Kompaniet is a top-rated department store in Sweden, and visiting their Christmas window displays are on the top of the list of seasonal traditions for local residents. The Christmas displays have been ongoing since 1915! One of the ways in which NK’s windows are different from other shop displays is that they are geared solely towards children! They genuinely strive to ensure the displays are installed at a low level. This way kids can see everything as they walk by and don’t need anyone’s assistance to see the scene.
Many other stores also have brand commitments that need to be met for the store windows, which results in the scenes being a little ham-fisted. But NK’s are devoid of branding and are more dedicated to a good-old-fashioned Swedish Christmas. If you have time to pop inside, you’ll be treated to a 4-storey tall Christmas tree!
From the Operakällaren, head into the magical parkland of Kungsträdgården. Kungsträdgården is Swedish for “King’s Garden” but was initially built in 1430 as the King’s cabbage garden! In 1454 the park was expanded into a royal Baroque pleasure garden. Pleasure gardens were all the rage in the baroque era as they provided a place of recreation and entertainment for the public in the name of the King. A great way to stirrup publicity for the monarchy.
Walking into the park, the first things you’ll be in awe of are the dozens and dozens of linden trees lining your entrance to the park dressed up in Christmas lights. It’s like walking into a dream.
In the middle of the park is where you’ll find the circular ice skating rink. The rink is free and open to all! You just need a pair of skates which are available for rental. *Due to Covid 19 restriction, skate rental is closed for 2020. The rink is open from late November once the weather is cold enough for the ice to keep frozen and closes around the beginning of March. The rink’s hours are Weekdays 9 am-8 pm, weekends 10 am-6 pm. Even if you don’t want to skate, the ring is beautifully decorated and playing charming Christmas music you can dance to while watching the skaters whizz by.
Towards the northern end of the park is where you can find the tremendous royal deer. These 20 ft. tall deers are some of the first sculptural light displays we will see along the tour. These are called the “royal” deer not only because they are in the King’s park but because of their very regal stance. With their heads held high and nose in the air, they definitely look noble.
At the end of the park, you’ll come to Hamngatan, turn right and walk along till you come to Nybrogatan. Many of the streets in Stockholm end in “gatan,” and that is because “gatan” translates into “street”. On the corner of Nybrogatan and Hamngatan is Berzelii Park. Walking along the eastern side of the park is a herd of moose. No, they aren’t real moose; they are a series of lit sculptures. One of the reasons that moose are such an important symbol in Sweden is because there are more moose in Sweden per square kilometre than any other country in the world!
While you might think these moose are oversized, just like the royal deer we saw previously, moose are truly enormous creatures. They can grow up to 7 ft tall up to the shoulder with the large antlers stretching upwards of another foot or two. The male bulls can weigh up to a whopping 1870 pounds!!! While there are about 400,000 moose in Sweden, 100,000 are culled every year during hunting season to control the population. This culling results in moose meat being eaten and sold all over Sweden, making it one of their most iconic dishes.
Walk north up Birger Jarlsgatan to the corner of Birger Jarlsgatan and Smålandsgatan. This building contains the corporate offices of Bain & Company. They have sponsored the lightning of the building with a giant red bow charmingly hanging off the facade. It’s so simple and yet so eye-catching.
Walk west along Smålandsgatan to Norrmalmstorg (storg means square). Norrmalmstorg was made famous in 1973 as the renowned robbery site, which resulted in events giving the world the saying “Stockholm syndrome.” But at Christmas time, the square has a somewhat more upbeat tone. In the center of the square stands one of the largest Christmas trees, all lit up with white lights.
One of the most significant differences I found between Swedish Christmas decor and North American decorations was simplicity. Instead of packing the trees with multicoloured lights and a million ornaments, most of the Christmas trees on display in the street were just filled with white lights and nothing more. Even the multitude of Christmas lights in the city stuck mainly to white, red and silver in terms of colours. While some people might think this restrained themeing might be boring, I found the uniformity calming and almost more natural. Like the lights bloomed on the trees like magic. The Brasserie vau de Ville is also located in the center of the square. It always has an elegant splay of decor lighting up the restaurant at night.
Directly north of the square is the street Biblioteksgatan. Biblioteksgatan, which means “Library Street” in Swedish, is a street that culminates at the National Royal Library of Sweden and Humlegården. This pedestrian-only street is home to some of the most luxurious brand name stores, and the rent along the road is some of the highest in Stockholm. What this means for you is that most of these stores have some of the most fantastic windows displays set up for Christmas. It makes peering into the window some great fun.
Above your head, as you walk, a series of beautiful wreaths all lit up for the holidays. I absolutely love how they were swagged up and down the street, making it feel cozy and warm.
Continue walking along Biblioteksgatan until you get to Mäster Samuelsgatan. From there, turn left, and walk until you get to Norrlandsgatan. Norrlandsgatan is famous for being the location of one of Stockholm’s greatest unsolved mysteries. Restaurant Fontainebleau was one of the most popular restaurants in Stockholm in 1982 but was bombed on New Years’ ever, obliterating it. No one was ever convicted for the blast, and still to this day, it remains a puzzle. Norrlandsgatan is decorated for Christmas in these giant hearts, which are covered in lights and filled with enormous red bauble ornaments. It’s definitely the most romantic of the streets and an excellent place for an amorous stroll.
Walk north along Norrlandsgatan until you reach Jakobsbergsgatan and turn left. Jakobsbergsgatan is another pedestrian-only street known for its festive street decor throughout the year. Interestingly the street is home to many architects’ offices. During Christmastime, the road is hung with modern circular lamps with little star cutouts around the circumference. Crawling out from the center of the lamps are branches covered in twinkle lights. These are certainly the most interesting and almost abstract designs of all the Christmas lights. I wonder if the architects around this neighbourhood have anything to do with the more conceptual design of these Christmas decorations.
Upon reaching Regeringsgatan, turn north and walk along the street, looking upwards at the blue snowballs hanging from the sky. Regeringsgatan is one of the oldest streets in Stockholm and was once one of the most critical trade roads. Providing access for travelling merchants to Stockholm’s waterways.
As we travel along Regeringsgatan, we finally come to the northernmost point on our tour, Kungsgatan. Kungsgatan means “King’s Street” in Swedish. Many of the most elegant buildings along this street were built in the early 1900s. But before this period of revitalization, the road was more famously known as being a red light district! Today, it is full of famous brands and some of the largest congregation of cinemas in the city. The street was also the site of Stockholm’s first traffic lights, which were installed in 1925! Today the traffic lights help you cross the street and take adorable pictures set amongst the amazing Christmas lights on the road.
The first thing you’ll see when you approach Regeringsgatan is the excellent Bridge of Regeringsgatan, built in 1911. The bridges are some of the best-decorated spots on the street as they are absolutely dripped in lights! Along the rest of the road are vast swags of evergreens lit up with a large shining star in the center.
As we approach Malmskillnadsgatan and the sizeable arched bridge, look up to see the giant Kungstorn or King’s Towers! These towers are 60 meters tall and flank either side of Malmskillnadsbron. The buildings were built in 1919 and 1924 and are considered the first modern skyscrapers in Europe!
Turn down Sveavägen and walk south until you reach Sergels Torg. Sergels Torg or Sergel’s Square is a circular pedestrian plaza named after 18th-century sculptor Johan Tobias Sergel. Segel once lived here and worked just north of the square. In the center of the square is the enormous obelisk which looks down over the people and car circling the square. The obelisk lights up throughout the day and is usually coloured red for Christmas.
In the recessed area of the plaza, which you can look down on from above or walk down the stairs to access, is a charming little family of moose grazing in a beautiful Christmas light encrusted forest. New to 2020 is an adorable set up where you can get your photo taken inside the faces of various Tomten! Tomten is the Swedish Christmas gnome who is said to live under people’s houses. On Christmas, even you must leave him something to eat to protect yourself from his mischief! He is a lovable creature that is more prominent to the Swedes than the North American Santa Claus image.
Walk west along Klarabergsgatan, where you will be delighted by an awning of falling icicle lights. It’s like walking through a sparkling snowstorm but one that doesn’t hurt your face!
Another popular department store that always has beautiful Christmas decor on its facade is Åhléns City. Åhléns City is one of my favourite places to shop for Christmas decorations if you don’t have time to buy any at the outdoor markets.
Backtrack to Drottninggatan, but turn right down Mäster Samuelsgatan and then north along Sergelgatan. Segelgatan is the same street we view from above before, but this is the street’s sunken part. This area is decorated with hanging red ornaments on golden strings.
At the end of the street, you’ll exit out into the Hötorget square. Hötorget is one of the most central squares in the city as it is where three major roads meet; Sergelgatan, Gamla Brogatan and Kungsgatan. The Hötorget means name Haymarket. Even now, the square serves as a fruit and vegetable market during the day, and on Sundays, there is a large flea market. On the north-east corner of the square is the Royal Concert hall, with its stately pillars of light which are always beaming at Christmas time. The Nobel Prize Concert is held every year inside the Concert Hall and honours the current year’s Nobel Laureates.
Head west over to Drottninggatan. This gorgeous pedestrian-only shopping street is named Drottninggatan or Queen street. When it was first built in 1630 is was called “King’s Street” but was renamed Queen Street after Queen Christina, who ruled from 1632 to 1654.
For such a royal road, there is only one option for decorations; regal twinkling chandeliers! Marking the entry and exit to the walkable street are four great lions guarding the entrances. One of Stockholm’s oldest pharmacies, Apotek Ugglan, is located here and has been for over 200 years!
Backtrack a little bit along Drottninggatan to walk west along Gamla Brogatan. This is one of my favourite streets in this part of town. Gamla Brogatan was initially called. Gamla Kungsholmsbrogatan and was first established in 1637. While the road is narrow and pretty quiet, there are so many buildings along here which have such exciting architecture. Hanging above your heads as you walk are beautiful giant pine cones, glittering in the moonlight.
When you come to Vasaplan, walk south along the street until you reach Stockholms Centralstation. While most of the building’s exterior is decorated, the best part is the door to the far south. Here you can find the large arch with enormous hanging mistletoe—the perfect place to steal a kiss with the one you love.
If you have time to step inside, you’ll be amazed at the Christmas lights that cover the train station’s entirety. Walking around here feels like a fairytale come true.
Just south of Centralstation is the Järnvägsparken overpass. One of the loveliest parts of the decor along this part of the city is the fact that the light reflects down into the water, creating the most lovely mirrored effect.
In the small plaza of Tegelbacken, look up high to the lamp posts where you’ll find a series of lit angels blowing trumpets
Walk east until you reach Malmtorgsgatan and then veer off to the right until you reach Brunkebergstorg. This sizeable inner-city square is home to two beautiful deer, which are the dominating piece of decor in this part of town. In front of the Gallerian building are two 30 ft tall deer standing proud. But instead of antlers, a beautiful spray of tree branches explodes from their head. They are so stunning and set against the darkness of the night really makes an impact.
Finally, head back down south to Norrbro. Norrbro or “North Bridge” is an arch bridge over Norrström. The bridge extends out from the Royal Palace and the Riksdag building. It was designed by the city architect Erik Palmstedt (1741–1803) in a neoclassical style.
Since the buildings located on the other side of the bridge are for the royal family, the decorations along the bridge are huge chandeliers topped with golden stars like a crown.
I hope you enjoyed the tour, it’s really one of the best ways to explore the city and you’ll see so many beautiful sights in Stockholm along the way!
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