Tucked against the shores of the Thames River, over in Southwark, just across London Bridge, is the bustling Borough Market. When I arrived in London, this was practically the first stop on my list. It was Christmastime, and I was equally excited to see the food halls decked out for the holidays as I was to sample the treats thereunder. Borough Market is the ultimate destination for foodies in London! It’s a literal treasure trove of culinary delights, offering an array of mouthwatering treats that will tantalize your taste buds and leave you craving more. From artisanal cheese and mouth-watering pastries to exotic spices and street food, Borough Market has everything that makes the London food scene so iconic in one convenient location.
As a solo traveller in London, I know how hard it is to fit all that food in your stomach (and budget.) So, I’ve done my best to select the best culinary experiences that Borough Market offers for you to choose your favourites from. But remember, it’s all about exploration, so if something calls to you, seek it out. You might just discover a new favourite dish. Grab your appetite and let’s explore!
Borough Market is one of London’s oldest food markets in the heart of Southwark, with a rich history dating back over 1,000 years. The original entrance to the city of London was located just a stone’s throw away from the market, on the London bridge.
But London Bridge in the 12 century was a much different scene than today. These days, London Bridge is one of the most austere pieces of architecture along the Thames. Providing visitors and locals with a straight shot across the river and nothing more. But back in Medieval London, the bridge was a veritable cacophony of life. The entire bridge was lined with shops and houses, one piled on top of the other, creating a vibrant and bustling commercial center.
This brought in loads of traders, but these merchants required a space much larger than the already overwhelmed bridge. This is where the first Borough Market was conceived. The market, located just opposite the entrance to the city, initially dealt with trading grain and large livestock. But as the years passed and the market expanded. It became a commercial district selling produce, leather, pottery, soap and more.
If you think Borough Market is crowded today, imagine the chaos you would have found here in the 16th century. The market was packed to the brim with fishmongers and butchers. The most foul-smelling sellers were located as close as possible to the bridge and river as possible. This meant they could have access to drainage to keep those odours out of the street. The less foul-smelling your business, the more inward your stalls were from the river. Almost like medieval grocery stall aisles.
But the market was growing out of control. Borough Market was smack dab in the center of London’s main entryway, acting as a blocked artery into the city. It caused such traffic congestion that, in 1754, the market was forced to close by an Act of Parliament. Luckily, in 1756 local parishioners were able to set up another market on a new site that would become the Borough Market we know today.
The iconic art deco green wrought iron building was the design of architect Henry Rose and was built in 1932. For years the covered market mainly sold local produce and was only frequented by the Southwark residents. But in the 1990s, the artisanal restaurant boom was beginning to take shape in London. Various pioneering food businesses saw the potential of revitalizing the British food scene and felt that Borough Market was the place to do so! They hoped on the trend of food markets serving up small bites from local restaurants. Combined with more traditional market stalls selling preserves, produce, fresh meats, and pastries.
Most people probably don’t know that Borough Market is run by a charitable trust. This group overseas has a strict food policy within the market itself. This policy was implemented in the 1990s to ensure the traders’ ongoing commitment to quality, sustainability and ethics. This includes environmental sustainability and animal welfare. These policies can make you feel better about the food you’re buying. Not just any stall can sell food here. Only the best of the best of London gets to call themselves a vendor at Borough Market!
Unlike other markets in London, this market is open seven days a week. Monday to Friday, it’s open 10 am – 5 pm, Saturdays from 8 am – 5 pm, and Sundays 10 am – 3 pm. Although the main market is open all week, various stalls are only open from Wednesday onwards. I’ve done my best to outline the opening times of each stall below. Remember not to leave your Market visit too late in the evening as many shops will sell out.
The best way to get to Borough market is via the London Underground. They are conveniently located right beside the London Bridge Underground station, which is serviced by the Jubilee and Northern Lines. After exiting the train, follow signs for Borough Market, and you’ll find yourself there in under a few minutes.
A word of warning on the crowds. Many of the most popular food stalls here can get really busy. There are times when the lines for food can get up to an hour long! Especially on the weekends, the entire market can get super crowded. To avoid the lines, try to visit Borough Markets on a weekday. Wednesday and Thursdays are best to find the most shops open but not as busy as the weekends.
Unless there is a food stall you have been dreaming of and absolutely CANNOT MISS, if the queue is too long, give it a miss. Or come back later to see if the line is any shorter. Your vacation time is precious. And often, no matter how good the food really is, the taste can be soured by having to wait in a frustratingly long line. There are so many options in these markets, so don’t be afraid to skip that one “must-try” stop and give something different a go. I’ve included a number of different stops, more than any one stomach could fill, to ensure there is always multiple options for your day out in Borough Market.
We will start our tour in front of the beautiful wrought iron portico on Stoney Street, just north of Park Street. The gorgeous portico was only added to the facade in the 2000s. But this historical piece of architecture was built in 1850. The portico once dominated the entrance to the floral hall in Covent Garden. In the 1980s, when Covent Garden was being renovated, this portico was removed and stored by the historic society. Not wanting to simply ditch this amazing piece of London’s history. During Borough Market’s revitalization project, they saw the opportunity to repurpose the old portico on the west side of the market. Borough Market bought it from the Covent Garden trust for a whopping sum of £1.
The perfect way to start the morning off right is with a cup of coffee or tea from Monmouth Coffee Company! Monmouth Coffee Company is now one of London’s most popular indie coffee chains, but it first originated here in the late 1990s. Its charming interior blends modern fixtures with old red brickwork from the original building. Giving it such an old London feel mixed with classic comforts. They are serious about their beans and even have them on display behind glass. You can take a look before ordering to read about the beans before brewing.
Next, let’s head across the street and hit up Ginger Pig. All the meat for sale at Ginger pig is from native British rare breed livestock. Their fresh beef is butchered on-site, so many locals come here for prime cuts of beef for their Sunday roast. But we have come here for those glossy sausage rolls, steaming up the display case. These are one of the most filling sausage rolls in the city! Even just lifting this baby up to your mouth is a workout! Plan on splitting it up if you eat your way through the market.
Although wrapping meat inside pastry is a Roman recipe, the history of sausage rolls in the UK can be traced back to the early 1800s. Sausage rolls were believed to be a portable and convenient snack for working-class labourers. It was a way to get a quick and filling meal while working. The first recorded mention of sausage rolls was in a British cookbook written in 1851. Ever since these handy meat pockets have been considered a quintessential British food. And they should be on the top of everyone’s list to try when visiting London. While the classic pork sausage roll is the most popular, you can also get the pastry filled with British Silton cheese. Or opt for a spicy lamb roll for something a little more daring!
Just inside the entrance to the covered part of Borough Market, stop in at Richard Haward’s Oysters stand. The Haward family has been harvesting oysters in the shallow creeks outside Essex since as far back as 1792! This family knows their oysters! I was shocked to find out oysters could be found in England at all. But apparently, the warm temperatures in that area provide the perfect conditions for these delicious, fatty oysters to thrive. And since they are caught locally, the prices as surprisingly affordable. If you’ve never tried an oyster before, this is the spot to give it a go. I often suggest asking for their recommendation on what to try. Or taste a few different oysters to learn more about the subtle flavour difference that each variety of oysters has.
Borough Olives are one of my favourite spots to grab a salty snack. Something about those old wooden barrels filled with glossy marinating olives excites me and gets my mouth watering! All ingredients from Borough Olives are sourced from specialist producers in Greece, Spain and Morocco. Once harvested, the olives are brought to their Essex kitchens, dosed with various spices and marinades that turn them up to 11 on the flavour scale! A small sampling of olives is a great way to brighten your taste buds. If you are planning a little picnic, but sure to try their olive tapenade. The perfect thing to spread over a fresh loaf of bread and served with a side of cheese.
Dash across the street quickly before delving deeper into the covered market to grab a snack at Kappacasein Dairy. Kappacasein Dairy was founded by William Oglethorpe, who studied agriculture in Switzerland before moving to London in the 1980s. This shop specializes in alpine-style cheese served up on British classics. Their best seller is the toasted cheese sandwich made with shredded raclette. These are often called “cheese toasties” and are considered another British staple food.
In the winter, a favourite salty snack is their melted raclette, which is scraped and smothered over a plate of freshly baked potatoes. And served with a side of crunchy pickles. This comforting snack is the perfect way to warm you up on a cold or rainy day in London.
Heading deeper into the market, make your way to Turnips Greengrocers. This shop is run by the Foster family, who source fruit and veg from all about Britain to bring the finest seasonal produce to the centre of London! While their produce is surely the visual draw of this stand, they have become very popular for their pressed fruit juices. These refreshing beverages allow you to taste the freshness of their produce without having to lug a bag full of fruit home with you.
The stand is also well known for its incredible selection of mushrooms. But visitors who didn’t have a kitchen in London mostly had to miss out on trying these precious morels. But recently, they have started selling freshly made mushroom risotto using their gorgeous produce. Cooked right in the market, for all to see and small. You can honestly sniff them out from across the market, making Turnips easy to find. If you want to amp up your risotto, you can also add freshly shaved truffles or truffle oil on top. I’m not much of a fan, so I prefer the plain risotto as it allows the true flavours of the natural mushrooms to come through. But I know truffle fans will jump at the opportunity!
If you want to sample some of the best British Cheese, head straight to the Heritage Cheese stall. This company brings together the best British and Irish artisanal cheese makers. My favourite being their selection of Blue cheeses, including the famous Stilton. I don’t think you’ve truly tried blue cheese until you’ve tried Stilton. Their stalls will happily give you a sample before slicing you off a wedge of cheese to take home. So don’t be scared to ask. If you aren’t sure what to get, ask for the Cheesemongers Choice. Give them a budget, and they will provide you with a few varieties with that price point in mind.
The one spot in the market that I feel is worth the wait in line for the sandwiches at the Black Pig. Their signature honey truffle and parmesan pork ciabatta are truly one of the best things to eat in the entire city! The pork for the sandwich is slow-roasted over hot coals all day, giving it a succulent and subtle flavour that just melts in your mouth. That combination of sweet, salty and fatty is beyond reproach. My absolute #1 recommendation! There is an area of raised seating just opposite the Black Pig if you’re looking for somewhere to sit and enjoy your food. Or just take a minute to relax before heading back into the market.
I know so many people are obsessed with the doughnuts at Bread Ahead but we found them to be stale and the queue is always really really long! Instead, consider checking out Comptoir Gourmand for a dose of delicious baked goods! This amazing shop is run by chef-patissier Sebastien Wind, who was trained in France. And we all know the French have mastered the art of pastry. Everything from tender fruit tarts to huge, colourful meringues and custardy croissants can be found here in their little stall.
Humble Crumble is one of those places I saw go viral online, and I thought it would just be one of those over-hyped food trends. But once I tasted it, I was shocked to find it was everything people say it is. A humble crumble is essentially a build-your-own sweet crumble bowl. You start with a base of their seasonal fruit selections. Depending on the time of year, you can get mixed berries, apples, rhubarb, strawberries or a mixture of two.
You then cover the fruit in your choice of crumble. Either classic shortbread, vegan shortbread or granola. Then the entire bowl is then smothered in the creamiest hot vanilla custard, frozen vanilla custard, or freshly whipped cream. You can also get one extra topping like dried rose petals, almond slivers, or marshmallows. For an extra 50 p, you can also get a creme brulee topping. I’m a sucker for a ‘make-your-own” sweet and this always hits the spot!
Well, fellow foodies, we’ve reached the end of our Borough Market culinary adventure! Whether you’re a seasoned Borough Market regular or a first-time visitor, there’s always something new and delicious to discover. Whether you’re craving traditional British fare or international cuisine, you’re sure to find something to tempt your taste buds. Until next time,
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