On my most recent trip to Paris, I was visiting from London. Instead of hopping on a plane, I was travelling via the super-fast and convenient Eurostar. The Eurostar train travels from London to Paris in under two and a half hours! Taking the train means no stressing about flight cancellations, luggage restrictions or delays at the airport. And the best part for me? Relaxing on the train, watching as the English countryside transforms into a charming French landscape. I was arriving in Paris at the crack of dawn. And leaving Monday morning even earlier. So proximity to the train station was of the utmost importance. But just because you want something convenient doesn’t mean you have to skimp on style. And that is especially true for my stay at the Hôtel Les Deux Gares in Paris. Probably the most fabulous hotel I’ve stepped inside.
When I arrived, I was overjoyed to see rich boughs of Christmas greenery hanging outside the hotel’s doors. Dotted with bright red and gold ornaments. My trip to Paris was planned entirely around visiting the Parisian Christmas Markets and soaking in some holiday magic. I was delighted to be greeted with these decorations from the moment I arrived at the Hôtel Les Deux Gares. When I entered the lobby, they were in the process of getting their delivery of Christmas trees. And before I left that morning, two were already set up outside the front doot! A treat I got to enjoy throughout the rest of my stay.
From the stunning patterns, delicate decor touches and kind staff, staying at this hotel was truly one of the best parts of my trip. And I knew I had to share this wonderous place with all of you!
The Hôtel Les Deux Gares is located between the Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est in Paris’ northern corner. This location set between two huge transit hubs makes it the ideal location for travellers. Transit around the city from this location was a breeze. Although the area isn’t the most popular with tourists, I found the trade-off of quick access to the station in the morning well worth it.
The neighbourhood around the hotel is called the 10th Arrondissement. An “arrondissement” is the French term for the various districts that make up a city as large as Paris. While the 10th doesn’t make any lists of the “best neighbourhoods in Paris,” it’s one of the multicultural neighbourhoods where you can find actual Parisians living and working. It is not just a touristy microcosm. But a bustling district also dubbed “Little India,” where delicious curry shops can be found. While it might not be home to top-tier attractions, some true hidden gems are located less than 10 minutes from the hotel door. For more about the neighbourhood, continue reading below.
Every single one of the rooms inside the hotel is a colourful and rich tapestry of patterns and textiles. And stepping into your room is a wonderful surprise to see which design style will be your own throughout your stay. One of my favourite things about the Hôtel Les Deux Gares as a solo traveller is their single room pricing. As one person, you often end up having to book a room meant for two and paying the same as a couple. But here, they have Single Rooms (approx. €170/night) that still feature a large queen or king bed. You save about 10-20 euros a night. While that’s not a fortune, it does cover the cost of a decent meal in Paris, and any savings is A-OK by me!
My room was decorated in pink, green and pale blue art deco patterned wallpaper. Accented with the most fabulous yellow pops of colour throughout. It honestly just made me smile to walk into my room. I usually spend so much of my time when travelling outside my hotel room. But here I found myself missing my bedroom when I was away. I even made a point to bring home a takeout dinner one night just so I could enjoy my time inside the room!
The bed linen was plush, and the pillows were super soft. I love having a bath, so I was slightly sad to find the single rooms only come with a shower option. But the shower was so pretty, I didn’t even mind. There were plenty of toiletries provided, which was great as I had left all mine behind. As a Canadian, the heated towel rack is always a little treat to find as those aren’t standard in North America.
My room was located on the second floor facing the train station right beside a busy footpath. I am SUPER sensitive to noise. So I was SURE I was going to be bothered by that proximity. But, to my surprise, I never heard a peep. They’ve really outdone themselves on sound insulation, to be sure.
But in terms of a view, I was disappointed. Don’t get me wrong, I love having a good view of the train station, that’s not my complaint. I didn’t expect an Eiffel Tower view or anything like that. But behind almost level with the outdoor footpath, I didn’t feel comfortable leaving the curtains open. So I kept them closed and missed out on admiring the view. I wouldn’t have been as bothered if I had been on a higher level. I love people-watching and transporting, so when it was quieter at night, I would sneak a peak now and then. But when you feel the people outside are close enough to walk into your living room, that’s a little too much for me. I did appreciate that the windows opened up to a small Juliet balcony which would have been great had I come during the Spring or Summer.
In addition to the single rooms, they, of course, also have Standard (approx. €179/night) and Superior (approx. €224/night) rooms. The difference between the two being the Superior room guarantees a king-size bed and has a slightly larger footprint. There are also Suites (approx. €305/night) which provide space for four people with a bed and pull out sofa. The Family Rooms (approx. €359/night), which are adjoining spaces with two beds and a pull-out sofa, fit up to six people. So if you’re travelling with a large family, this is a great option! Because the hotel is on the smaller side, and for obvious reasons is very popular, it’s best to book your rooms as far in advance as possible.
Aside from a convenient location, what many people really come here for is the aesthetics. It truly feels like stepping into a Wes Anderson movie set. The English interior designer, Luke Edward Hall, oversaw the hotel’s design. Hall was inspired by the Art Deco period and combined those styles with almost neon-hued colours. Parisian architecture can be rather austere, with minimal colour. So walking inside this hotel, you are overwhelmed with the vibrancy met indoors. The hotel opened after the Covid pandemic, and the bright colours almost feel like a response to the pandemic. As they make you feel alive and excited to be travelling again.
The lively decor makes even the small rooms an absolute treasure box. It emulates Hall’s idea of walking into an eccentric Parisian’s bohemian apartment. The blend of patterns, textiles and auction items feels like a lovingly curated personal collection. Like staying with your cooky aunt who moonlights as an artist and teaches yoga.
Without a doubt, the lobby and breakfast nook area is the most fantastically decorated parts of the hotel. And it is here that you can join the small collection of guests for breakfast every morning. Breakfast is served from 7:15 am to 10:15 am, so whether you’re an early bird or late riser, you can start your day off right. The breakfast costs 18 euros unless you purchased a room package that included it with your stay. While pricey and something I usually skip, it feels pretty standard in terms of hotel breakfast pricing these days. But truthfully, I would just hit up patisseries instead if they’re open.
Because the area is a bit lacking in terms of authentic French cafes, the hotel has opened its own Café Les Deux Gares just across the street. Like any good French bistro, the menu is handwritten on the chalkboard daily to feature fresh, local and seasonal dishes. Entrees range from €12-15 and main plates are about €25-€35. They also have a great wine list if you want to come here simply for a nightcap and enjoy the gorgeous ambiance.
The highlight of this cafe is the over-the-top trompe l’oeil tortoiseshell ceiling made by artist Pauline Leyravaud. Pair this with the marble-topped tables, antique wooden chairs and delicate upholstery, and you’ve got one of the most gorgeous interiors in the 10th Arrondissement.
I’m not one to go to the gym, even back at home, but even I was tempted to do something in the fitness room because of how darn adorable the wallpaper was down here. While I skipped the non-urge to go for a run, I did partake in the sauna. Since winter travelling can get pretty chilly, there is nothing better to get those bones warmed up than a nice hot sauna. This is just one example of those little amenities that make a big difference. Despite visiting on a busy Christmas weekend, the hotel was quiet, and I never had an issue with space in the sauna.
For transparency’s sake, I am outlining a few details about the area around the hotel that some of the more prominent online outlets have failed to mention. Many of these reviews were done by writers who perhaps didn’t stay the night but instead came, checked out the interior and left.
I’ve read a few reviews from sites like TripAdvisor that detail how guests felt the area was dingy, without many restaurants, and there are groups of men hanging around 24/7. Firstly, the area never felt dingy to me; it was just Paris. Which I know to some people, is often defined as being “dirty and smelly.” But the 10th Arrondissement is no better or worse for this than other busy areas of Paris. While it’s definitely not the nicest or most picturesque, you get what you’d expect from any city around the central train station.
The idea that there is a lack of restaurants in the area is just incorrect. Perhaps these reviewers meant there is a lack of restaurants they deem “familiar,” as many of the popular spots around here are Indian curry houses or Bangladeshi bars. Not wall-to-wall chic Parisian cafes and bistros. But as mentioned above, the hotel-owned restaurant across the street quickly fills that void if that’s solely what you’re looking for.
In terms of there being men in the area 24/7, that part is true. Even late at night, you’d find large groups of men standing outside on the streets. I was there as a solo female traveller, and although I noticed this, I never felt uncomfortable. Lots of these people were clearly cab drivers waiting or on break. Or just locals out and about. Just be aware and stay vigilant, but I never felt unsafe. It’s very similar to areas around East London. If you feel concerned, avoid walking around here late at night. Which is easily avoided by taking an uber to the hotel.
Generally, I advise avoiding the area north of the station to steer clear of the more “dangerous” areas. The southern part of the 10th borders the 3rd Arrondissement, which is one of the poshest parts of the city.
Personally, I found areas around Sacre Coeur where there are tons of tourists much more “dangerous” as there are plenty of pickpockets or people out to scam you. So while some neighbourhoods look more dangerous, the busy tourist hubs actually have the most crime against tourists. So take all that to heart when choosing your Parisian destination.
While the 10th Arrondissement isn’t home to the Louvre or the Eiffel Tower, there are some real gems to be found in this neck of the woods that you’d never otherwise make the time to come and see. But being in the neighbourhood, you’re gifted with them at your front door.
One of my favourite things to do in Paris is EAT. Obviously. And in my opinion, some of the best food in the city is found in the marketplace. The Marche Saint-Quentin is located just five minutes down the street from the hotel. This gorgeous market was built in the 19th century and features beautiful wrought-iron beams and large glass windows. The market is home to some incredible butchers, an amazing cheesemonger, fruit vendors and, my favourite, a gorgeous florist. If you’ve been reading the blog for years, you’ll know I love to buy a fresh bouquet of flowers. It’s one of the first things I do when I arrive in a new city. To add some scent and sparkle to my hotel room.
Just 10 minutes east of the hotel, you can wander over to the Canal Saint Martin. This peaceful canal is now a hipster hotspot. The perfect spot for walking with a good cup of coffee in the morning. The wrought-iron bridges set against iconic Parisian architecture makes for some of the most beautiful viewing spots. And you’ll be surprised to find that here you have the city almost all to yourself. Which in Paris is a rarity.
Speaking of coffee! I’m an early bird; I’m frequently awake as early as 7 am when travelling as I’m just too excited to sleep in. But Paris, like many other European cities, awakens pretty late. Thankfully for me, Maison Bayat was just 5 minutes west of the hotel. While you might be searching for “coffee” in Paris, it’s best to look for a Patisserie. Here you’ll find the best of the best Parisian pastries to start your morning off right!B ut they also sell delicious coffee to go or to sit while dining inside.
If you’re looking for somewhere to eat that’s cheap, fast and beautiful, you need to check out Bouillon Chartier Gare de l’Est. Bouillon Chartier is a chain of brasseries in Paris that focus on simple dining with an authentic Parisian menu. Best of all, they’re located inside the most incredible historic interiors.
While some might complain the food quality is not always the most stellar, personally, it is reliable if you know what to order. The entrees are always my favourite. A great place to try escargot, oeuf du mayonnaise, terrine (incredible), an avocado shrimp cocktail, or a simple rosette of Lyon. Avoid the Boeuf Bougineon (it’s pretty bland), but if you want to order a full meal, try the roast chicken and fries. At less than 10 euroes its super juiucy and deliciuos. I ALWAYS recommend the chestnut puree with whipped cream for dessert. Especially in the wintertime. Chestnut puree is a french staple and a unique choice you won’t find anywhere else.
For a relaxing escape from the stone facades, you are just a few minutes away from the Jardin Villemin. The garden was created in 1977 on the site of the former Villemin military hospital, which closed in 1968. It was named after the famous doctor Jean-Antoine Villemin. The original hospital was built to treat the wounded returning from WWI and WWII. The original stone entrance to the military hospital can be found along the rue des Récollets, which now serves as an entry into the park.
19th-century covered arcades are one of the hidden treasures of Paris. These are called “Passages couverts,” and during the 1800s, there were over 130 of them found throughout the city. But after Haussmann renovated Paris in 1853, many disappeared, leaving only a few dozen original arcades throughout the city. So it’s special to find one only a few doors down in the 10th Arrondissement. Today Passage Brady still retains the original iron and glass-covered ceiling and features several Indian, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi restaurants inside.
Despite not being in the tourist hub, the 10th still provides easy access to the city’s most popular attractions. And for me, being within such short walking distance of Montmartre (my favourite neighbourhood) is a bonus! Montmartre accommodation can be pretty pricey, even for a basic hotel, so I love staying somewhere close by without the big price tag.
Montmartre > 19 minutes on metro | 25 minute walk
Eiffel Tower > 35 minutes on metro
Louvre > 17 minutes on metro | 36 minute walk
Arc de Triomphe > 20 minutes on metro
Notre Dame > 20 minutes on metro | 43 minute walk
All in all, I cannot wait to return to Hôtel Les Deux Gares! Next time, I’m planning on reserving that room with a bathtub that looks out over the city! Nowhere better to sit, enjoy the views, drink a good glass of French wine and plan out the next day’s adventures.
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Hotel Les Deux Gares sounds like a perfect blend of style and affordability! The Art Deco vibe and prime Paris location make it a standout option for those looking for a chic stay without breaking the bank. Thanks for the honest review—it's now on my Paris list!