Polanco is the most upscale neighbourhood in Mexico City. This is where the elite of CDMX come to shop, dine and mingle. The posh and glamourous residents mill about with their tiny dogs and huge luxury cars. Although the generally tourist-friendly neighbourhoods of Mexico City are all reasonably safe, Polanco is by far the safest of all the different barrios.
Truthful, this isn’t my favourite part of town. I’m not a luxury gal, I’m definitely more hipster than heiress. But after avoiding the area I finally made the effort to check it out and was amazed at what I found! There are some really incredible gems out here if you know where to look. But even I was wrapped up in the spell that is Polanco.
I made it a point to check out some of the luxury shopping and suddenly I understood, at least partially, what all the fuss was about. As someone who usually just buys her perfume at Lush, I was blown away by a hedonistic shopping experience at Xinu! I even came out with my first ever luxury perfume purchase! One of the greatest parts about a trip to Mexico City is that because you’ll eat at so many low-priced restaurants, you can afford that one-time splurge. We also made a point to get reservations at Pujol. This was my first time eating at a Michelin Star restaurant. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and one I will never forget!
So if you’re like me and you’re looking to check out Polanco, but step past more than just the fancy shops, come with me on our Self Guided Tour of the luscious tree-lined street of Polanco! And not to worry! Polanco has more than just 5-star restaurants. There is also plenty of cheap eats, free entertainment and incredible sights found along the way.
Polanco is located north of Paseo de la Reforma and just south of Avenida Ejercito Nacional. To the east and west Polanco sandwiches between Avenida Mariano Escobedo and Boulevard Manuel Avila Camacho. You can always easily Uber in and out of Polanco but if you want to take the subway to Metro Polanco. The Metro Polanco station is located right beside our first stop on the tour!
Long before the Spanish arrived, what is now known as “Mexico City” was first the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan. During those fertile years, a great river passed through what is now Avenue Campos Elisios in Polanco. In the 16th century, after the conquest, the land here was gifted to Hernán Cortés by the King of Spain. Cortes took control and named the river after the Spanish Jesuit Juan Alfonso de Polanco. The Polanco family were considered almost royalty and were highly regarded members of the board of King of Spain. A majority of the family members travelled to Mexico City as newly created “officers of the Crown”. This is where we get the name of the neighbourhood today. Sadly, the river was lost when the Spanish drained the valley to make more room for expansion. But the name lives on.
As time went on, the land became occupied by farmers. It was primarily used to plant mulberry trees and breed silkworms. The 16th-century Hacienda de Los Morales, one of the largest Polanco farmsteads, was established. We can even visit the old homestead today as it is still standing on the neighbourhood’s west side. It is now occupied by an incredible restaurant where you can dine inside a piece of history.
The area really only came into being as we know it today in the 1930s. The rural farmland was redeveloped by the enterprising Aleman family. They foresaw the need for further residential expansion in the city. Soon, Polanco was covered in large mansions with pristine tree-lined streets.
During this time, various foreign communities also began migrating to this area of town. As it was brand new they were able to establish little community circles, Even today you can find vibrant Jewish, Spanish, German and Lebanese pockets inside Polanco. Polanco is where the majority of the city’s working synagogues can still be found.
The most popular architectural style for these new mansions was Californian colonial or Spanish Revival style. These houses are easily identifiable by their curved arches, white stucco walls, terracotta roof tiles, wrought iron work railings and window grilles, and fantastical courtyards with expansive arcades. You’ll see many examples of this along Campos Elíseos, Avenida Jules Verne and Champs Elysées.
Later on in the 1950s, we saw the explosion of functionalist style defined by functional building materials and low levels of ornamentations. Many buildings are nothing more than concrete slabs, steel sheets, and exposed wood beams. We can see examples of this with buildings like the National Conservatory of Music, the Franco-Mexican Lyceum, and the Spanish Hospital.
The boom of population expansion in Polanco didn’t occur until after the 1960s. After the previously elite neighbourhoods of Roma and Condesa began to open up to lower-class families with the introduction of rent-controlled apartments, the upper class of those barrios were looking for greener pastures. Although there was still some free real estate, the solution to the large influx of people was to introduction luxury high-rise residential buildings. These were first introduced in the west end where large wide multi-lanes streets were built around these huge multi-storey apartments.
But my favourite aspect of Polanco’s architecture is the rise of mid-century design. In anticipation of the 1968 Olympics in Mexico City there were many new hotels built to accommodate the influx of visitors. During this time the cult of personalities would soon return to the streets of Polanco. Most notable is the Camino Real Polanco Hotel. This hotel became an icon of the Mexican Modernism movement. This style featured geometric shapes, bright, bold colours, sloping low-rise structures reminiscent of Aztec, pre-hispanic structures. While the Camino Real was the first of this kind of design, years later, the experimentation of Mexican Modernism would continue in buildings like the Museo Jumex, Sala de Arte Publico Siqueiros, Luis Barragán’s Casa Barragán, Juan O’Gorman’s Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo’s Studio House and the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) Campus.
The Camino Real Polanco is a beautiful hotel/museum designed by renowned architect Ricardo Legorreta. The space opened its doors to the public on July 25th, 1968. It was famous for combining modern features with shapes reminiscent of pre-hispanic pyramids when it opened. Elements from these merge to create an architectural masterpiece! There is something so nostalgic about the 60’s decor, which is so atmospheric. Plus, as it is not a high-end luxury hotel, the rooms come at a reasonable price for the area! If you have a little more cash to spend, book one suite as the retro decor is incredible. The view out towards the best architectural features of the hotel is wonderfully highlighted.
Nothing feels more like Mexican royalty than a stay at the Orchid House Polanco. The Orchid House provides visitors with the exquisite feeling of being at home with the comforts of a hotel. Hidden away inside a 100-year-old mansion, the hotel is filled with blue and coloured stained glass, antique barro floors hand-painted with images of Don Quijote and Shakespeare. There are also neoclassic mouldings and rich, traditional antique pink cantera stone. Each room is exquisitely designed and features textiles and handmade decorations from local artisan communities.
To start the perfect morning in Polanco, you must head over to Eno Restaurant. Eno is owned and operated by Chef Enrique Olvera. Olvera is infamous in the Mexico City food scene as he is also the chef who put Pujol on the map! But unlike Pujol, which is hard to get reservations at and costs a pretty penny, Eno is far more accessible for the everyday traveller.
At Eno, you can try a traditional Mexican breakfast, like a plate of the classic Chillaques Verde for only cost $7 US! Their daily selection of pan dulce (sweet bread) is incredible! At only $3 a piece, it’s worth ordering a few for the table to share.
From here, let’s take a walk down Avenue Horacio towards our next stop. Avenue Horacio is a perfect example of residential life in Polanco. Tall and orderly, minimalist and functionalist buildings line either side of wide, tree-lined avenues. But unlike the rougher charm that avenues in Condesa or Roma have, Polanco’s avenues are pristine. American-esque evergreen trees tower over the tiled pathways.
Before turning south, make a quick stop inside Plaza Uruguay. Marking the entrance to the park is a large statue of General Jose Artigas. General Jose Artigas fought in the Latin American Wars of Independence. He battled against the Spanish Empire and is considered a national treasure here in Mexico City. The park is a beautiful example of the green spaces introduced into Colonia in the 20th century. In the centre of the Plaza is a mammoth concrete sculpture. Water cascades down off the sides of the brutalist-inspired fountain which is surprisingly intriguing despite its simplistic design.
The next block over is the street named after physicist Isaac Newton. Head along this street towards the southwest. As we’ve noted before in the Historic Centre, Mexico City has an amazing collection of street names. Each neighbourhood has a different theme. In upper-class Polanco, many of the streets are named after famous authors, sciences and philosophers. You’ll find the authors like Oscar Wilde, Julio Verne, Dickens, and Hans Christian Andersen. Poets like Moliere, Tennyson, Dumas, and Edgar Allen Poe. They’ve honoured scientists like Galileo, Aristoteles and Newton all with their own streets. And finally, there are the philosophers Plato, Hegel, and Socrates.
Av. Isaac Newton ends at the corner of the great Parque Lincoln. While many large mansions in Polanco already had private gardens, Parque Lincoln was the first public park. This allowed all residents to feel at ease outside.
Although naming the park after an American president might seem odd, Lincoln was very well-loved by Mexicans. Lincoln opposed the US invasion of Mexico during the 1840s and from that moment won over the Mexicans. The large statue of Lincoln, made by Augustus Saint-Gaudens, stands in the park’s center. It was a gift to the city of Mexico by US president Lyndon B. Johnson when he visited Mexico City in 1966.
The park was inaugurated in 1938 by President Lázaro Cárdenas. Back then it was called Parque de Polanco or Parque del Palomar. A Polmar is a “dovecote” or house for pigeons or doves. Originally, the famous Parque Lincoln Clock Tower was a simple dovecote where the city’s dove population would come to roost.
If you find yourself in town on a Saturday, you’ll find the park awash with fuschia-coloured tarps. These can be spotted a mile away and mark the Tianguis Parque Lincoln or Lincoln Park flea market. Everything from flowers to ceramics and handicrafts can be found here! Everything from quesadillas, sopes, gorditas, pozole, carnitas, chilaquiles, fresh fruit and more can all be found here under the tents. The neighbourhood is a bit more upmarket, so while the food and goods aren’t as cheap as elsewhere the quality is also higher.
In addition to the statue of Lincoln, the park is filled with incredible sculptures. These outdoor works of art feature famous activists like Nelson Mandela and Martin Luther King Jr. Other sculptures are much more subjective and ask the viewer to interpret. My favourite is the woman intertwined in a root swirling around a city. Each tendril burst out of the ground.
Hidden away inside the park, inside a beehive-shaped building, is the Parque Lincoln Aviary. The Aviary was originally built in 1938. Although it closed down for almost four decades, it has since come back into fashion. Entry inside is only $10 pesos (US 50 cents)! If you have kids, this is a great option to entertain them. Inside you’ll find over 20 different species of birds. There are peacocks, parakeets, sparrows, pigeons and, of course, even parrots—all leaving in harmony.
Across from the Aviary, you’ll see another white stucco building, this is the Nelson Mandela Cultural Space. Inside, music and dance classes are offered to people of all ages. Stop outside the windows to see if you can hear any guitars or violins being played. Listen carefully as you walk by as on quiet days the music echoes throughout the park.
One of the most iconic images of Parque Lincoln is the clock tower that rises out above the trees. The Torre del Reloj or Clock Tower today is used as a public art gallery. But it is only open when they have a current exhibition on or not. Worth poking your head inside just to see.
Across the street, make a brief stop to see the incredible home at the intersection of Luis Urbina and Alejandro Dumas. Here you’ll find one of the finest examples of Colonial Californian design. The house was built for the lottery magnate Elias Henaine and designed by architect Eduardo Fuhrken Meneses. So many of these “Mexican” looking buildings were made for immigrants. Helaine, who was Lebanese, request this type of style as a means to “fit in” to her new home country.
Another nickname for Parque Lincoln is “Park of Mirrors.” The names comes from the two famous reflecting pools on either side of Calle Julio Verne. Especially on the weekends, these reflecting pools are a popular spot where you’ll find model ship collectors. They come from all over to place their boats in the water for the viewing pleasure of the surrounding public.
Head north along with Calle Julio Verne. These three little islands across from the park, where traffic swerves around, are home to some of the chicest cafes and restaurants in Polanco. And many of them are pretty well priced for such a high-end area. Boicot Café is my fave coffee chain in CDMX and worth checking out if you need a caffeine pick me up! But the main reason to make your way around the central circuit is to check out the Polanco branch of Churrería El Moro.
The original Churrería El Moro, in the Centro Histórico, is the oldest churro restaurant in Mexico City, established in 1935. A Spanish immigrant was shocked upon moving to Mexico City that there weren’t any churro shops in town. So he started his own little churro cart he wheeled around. The treat caught on immediately and it didn’t take long for him to buy a permanent location where he opened his first shop. Since then the company has only grown with locations all over Mexico City.
The only way to eat a churro from El Moro is with a cup of hot chocolate. You take that hot piece of fried cinnamon dough and dip it right into the hot cocoa. El Moro has four types of hot chocolates; Mexican (traditional and light ), French (with vanilla), Spanish (sweet and thick) and Special (bitter). On the other hand, hot chocolate is as old as Mexico itself. The drinking of chocolate can be traced back to Aztec times and was often referred to as “the drink of the gods.” The churro and hot chocolate as the culinary interpretation of the blending of these two cultures.
Make a quick detour east along Calle Virgilio and up Calle Alejandro Dumas towards the Polanco branch of Cafebrería El Péndulo. Cafebrería El Péndulo is my favourite book store chain in Mexico City. They have locations in Condesa, Roma and San Angel. If you spot one, you know this is a great place to rest your feet. There is no disputing that their Polanco location is the absolute penultimate in architecture and design. This store is famous for being one of the most popular Instagram locations in the city.
The towering bookshelves are framed by these long-hanging plants. Making you feel like you’ve entered a greenhouse that is growing books. The swirling wooden staircase with bright teal banisters frames the entire bookshop. The entire place just feels cozy, modern and vibrant all at once. The roof of the building is made of semi-opaque glass. This allows natural light to pour into the main gallery creating the ideal space for reading.
The reason these stores are called “Cafebrerías,” is that each one comes complete with a small cafe. Couches and chairs dot the entire second floor where you can sit for hours, enjoying watching people peruse the book selection while enjoying a lovely coffee. I often Uber up to Polanco just to sit and enjoy a coffee inside El Péndulo. They have a great selection of English books. Therefore, I am never strong enough not to leave without a new book in hand. Something always calls my name.
Jump back across the street and pop and enter into the Pasaje Polanco. The Pasaje Polanco, originally named the Pasaje Comercial, is an open-air shopping centre. The ground floor is littered with chic tiendas (boutiques) and above this, there are residential apartments. Even if you have no interest in shopping, this building is an architectural wonder. It’s stunning but has a surprisingly complicated history.
The complex was opened in 1939 and designed by Francisco J. Serrano in what we now call Colonial Californian style. Serrano was the first to define the Colonial Californian architectural style. He frequently travelled to Los Angeles to purchase films for a movie theatre he owned in Mexico. Everywhere he looked in Los Angeles, he saw a style called Spanish Colonial Revival. This style featured red-tiled roofs, arched passageways, iron-grille windows, Talavera tiles, and white stucco. But anyone looking at this can clearly see the Mexican influence. But by referring to it as “Spanish,” it held a more European cache to Americans who looked down on Mexico. Calling it Spanish Colonial design erased the true influence that Mexican art and architecture always held in America.
This style would define the Californian architecture of the 1920s. It was so popular that a few years later, it was adopted here in Mexico City. But instead of drawing from their history, they took on the naming convention of ‘Colonial Californian’ architecture. And continued to be inspired by the more watered-down version of their past. The blueprint of these Californian buildings was fairly standardized. They consisted of the elements mentioned above and also featured a large interior courtyard. This courtyard was where shops would be installed on the ground level. While above, apartments would be built that would look out onto the semi-private courtyard below. Today, everyone has to admit the architecture is absolutely beautiful. But it’s a fascinating history to see how Mexican designs became Americanized. And then returned back to Mexico but as a shadow of their former self.
Exit visa Avenida Presidente Masaryk and make sure to take a second look back at the facade of the Pasaje Polanco as it’s truly spectacular from this vantage point. Avenida Presidente Masaryk is home to some of the country’s most prestigious and expensive restaurants and boutiques. It is considered the most exclusive avenue in Latin America, the Mexican version of ‘Rodeo Drive‘.
The Avenida Presidente Masaryk, is named after a Czech president Tomáš Masaryk. Tomáš Masaryk was the first president of Czechoslovakia when it became an independent country. Mexicans deeply revered countries that became independent as they themselves know the power that comes with independence. But the other reason Presidente Masaryk is admired in Polanco is due to the large Jewish community that lived here. Masaryk was a staunch defender of the Jewish people in Czechoslovakia. A statue of President Masaryk was donated by Prague in 2000 and installed along the street bearing his name. The same statue can also be found outside Prague Castle. Linking the two countries forever.
If you’re hungry and aren’t looking to spend a fortune, head to La Casa del Pastor. This little taco restaurant sits in one most exclusive areas in the city. And yet at around 40 pesos/taco (US $2) it’s very reasonably priced! You fill out a little paper sheet and tick off how many of each taco you’d like to get. There is such a huge selection of options here. The tacos pastor are their specialty. But you can also try Pollo (chicken), bistec (steak), Costilla (rib), lomito adobado (marinated tenderloin), chorizo, vegetarian and more! Honestly, when you see a menu this deep, you know the quality can’t be the best, but you really can’t beat the locations.
Don’t fill up too much as we’ll pass by another popular taco spot later. But in case you just want to sit and enjoy the view this place won’t break the bank! Get a spot on the patio if you can and you’ll really get your money’s worth.
From here, you can continue west along Av. Pdte. Masaryk where our tour continues, or you can take a break to do some shopping. I am working on the entire post of my favourite shops in Polanco that aren’t just international luxury brands. But in the meantime, if you’re looking for unique shops to check out, you can head east to Uriarte Talavera Polanco. Uriarte Talavera Polanco has some of the best ceramic tiles from Puebla, Mexico. The shop was established in 1824 and features classic designs and modern takes on the world-class pottery made in Puebla.
As mentioned before, Xinú Perfumes is the most incredible perfume shop. One of the most transformative experiences I’ve ever had. And on top of that, the staff were incredibly kind. There was no pressure to buy of the judgement of your financial status when you walked in. Something I’ve definitely experienced in high-end stores like Louis Vuitton, Cartier or Dolce & Gabbana found in Polanco. Xinú’s philosophy is that it appeals to our olfactory memory. Their perfumes were all unlike anything I had smelled before, and so rich even a tiny whiff transcended me into another realm. It’s well worth the price tag but honestly pretty reasonable when it comes to high-end perfume.
IKAL is a beautifully curated store featuring burgeoning designers’ contemporary design objects and clothes. Lots of modern and handmade pieces to be found here and even if the price tag is pretty steep, you feel inspired just browsing.
If shopping isn’t your thing, head north along Alfredo de Musset towards Parque America. Parque America or American Park is a shady and vibrant park where the community comes out to play. Many people are out skateboarding, doing martial arts in the square or just relaxing with ice cream on one of the many comfortable benches. Locals mill about walking their dogs and chatting with each other about the latest gossip.
In the park, you’ll find a statue of Paul P. Harris. Harri was an American lawyer from Chicago, Illinois. He founded the club that became the humanitarian organization Rotary International in 1905. The park is another spectacular sight during the Jacaranda season which the purple trees bloom encircling the park in a colourful ring.
Towering above the conifer trees and leafy palms is the arched roof of the Church of San Agustín. This church is such a unique architectural wonder. It was designed by Leonardo Noriega and engineer Juan Valero Capetillo in 1949. The church’s facade features this monumental stone front. Most notable for the six hollow arches framing the pinnacle. The concave dome above the entrance to the church is adorned with reliefs. They feature images of the first seven Augustinians who arrived in America.
Head back or continue to walk west along Avenida Presidente Masaryk. Here is where you can peek into the windows of some of the most expensive and exclusive stores in all of Mexico City. Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Montblanc, Rolex, Cartier and more. The windows displays here are always stupendous, so don’t be shy about taking a look. But one of the most photographed places in all of Mexico City has got to the be outside Tane. This jewellery store’s bright pink-painted facade also features a wall of fence cacti. Framed within the cacti is a vibrant neon sign which screams, “Mexico Mi Amor” or Mexico My Love. Almost everyone who passes by loves to get a snap in front of it! And honestly, who can blame them?
Our second taco stop of the day is at El Turix. Winding down a little side street, this unassuming, practically standing-room-only restaurant is a hidden gem of the neighbourhood. El Turix specializes in cochinita pibil, a taco variation that comes from the Yucatán Peninsula. Cochinita pibil is made from a fatty slab of pork shoulder that has been slow-cooked until it just falls apart. It is marinated in achiote paste which lends a peppery flavour to the meat. The meat is also marinated with oranges to give it a sweet accompaniment to the slightly bitter achiote. Even after cooking, the pork is left to soak in the marinade juices. This gives you a slightly messy taco, but you’ll eat it up so quick you will barely notice! Tacos are only $18 pesos (less than US $1), so you can load up!
Head back up to Avenida Presidente Masaryk and continue north along Avenue Moliere. On the left side of the road, hidden behind a startlingly large, stark white wall, is the San Ignacio de Loyola Church. Turn just around the corner of Avenue Horacio, and suddenly the modernist church reveals itself to you. The church was completed in 1961 by famed architect Juan Sordo. Its sharp triangular structure is covered in handmade yellow ceramics. In the sunlight it shines like gold in the light of day.
If the church is open, be sure to step inside the Jesuit temple. Walking inside the incredible stained glass window bathes the atrium in rainbows of light. The metal gables that hold up the roof create this intricate web of metal above your head. It is truly one of the unique churches in the city and a little secret many people don’t even know if there.
Another modernist architectural marvel of Polanco is El Palacio de Hierro. Located just across the street from the church. El Palacio de Hierro has been open since 1891, but their original flagship store is located in the Historic Centre. But their history dates back even further. In 1850 Frenchman Victor Gassier moved to Mexico City and opened Las Fábricas de Francia, or the Factories of France. The shop sold the best of french fashions imported from Europe.
Gassier joined forces with Alexander Reynaud in the 1890s to build Mexico City’s first upscale department store. They were inspired by Le Bon Marché in Paris, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and Harrods in London. The name “El Palacio de Hierro” means the Iron Palace. It was given this nickname after opening since the department store was the first iron and steel structure to be built in Mexico City. People would pass by during its contribution in awe of the modern building materials. The company took advantage of the publicity by renaming the company El Palacio de Hierro.
Eventually, the store outgrew its location in the Historical Centre. The company wanted to aim not only to expand but bring in more expensive stores to serve a different type of clientele. In 2016 to spent US$300 million to build the new El Palacio de Hierro here in Polanco. The shopping mall is spread out over 55,200 square metres and is the largest department store in Latin America!
Continue north and turn west along Ejército Nacional Mexicano. This busy street is replete with Jacaranda trees come to the springtime! Turn up north along F. C. de Cuernavaca, where you have a spectacular view of the Soumaya Museum as you approach. The Museo Soumaya is one of my favourite types of museums. It is not controlled and operated by the government but instead features one man’s private collection.
Carlos Slim Helú is a Mexican telecommunications magnate. From 2010 to 2013 he was ranked by the Forbes business magazine as the richest person in the world! He is even the largest single shareholder of The New York Times. As such, the man can afford a lot of really, really high-valued art.
Slim named the ‘Soumaya Museum‘ after his wife, Soumaya Domit, who died in 1999. Carlos wanted to share his art with the public. Instead of just keeping it to himself. The collection was so important to his wife and sharing it with the world felt like a way to keep her alive.
But Carlos wanted to give access to these incredible works of art to everyone, no matter their class or financial status. Therefore, the museum is FREE to enter. And not just on Sundays, like some of the other city museums, but EVERY DAY.
The museum is located inside the Plaza Carso. It is also considered one of the most attractive modern architectural structures in all of Mexico City. Designed by Mexican architect Fernando Romero but engineered by famed architect Frank Gehry. Those who know Frank Gehry‘s work, you can almost identify the building straight away. There are so many iconic elements in the design. The building seems to be twisting itself straight out of the ground. Over 16,000 hexagonal aluminum tiles were used to cover the exterior. To hold up all these tiles, an exoskeleton was built with 28 vertical curved steel columns and seven beams encircling the structure. This design was inspired by offshore oil rigs. Not surprisingly, the building cost almost $800 million to build. A testament to Slim’s enormous fortune that he could afford such a construction.
The museum contains over 66,000 pieces of art valued at over 700 million dollars! The collection features art from all different periods and artists all over the world. There are religious relics, European masters, Mexican artists, and even the largest collection of pre-Hispanic and colonial-era coins. I adore personal collections since they truly tell a story about the owner. What Slim and his wife were drawn to, what they were passionate about.
And what they wanted to see upon their walls or in their home. The collection features the largest group of sculptures by Auguste Rodin outside France. Slim’s wife loved Rodin more than any other artist, and their collection is a testament to this love.
When you enter the building, you pass through a narrow entryway into the building that soars up around you, like entering through the pin of a needle. You walk inside into this giant wide open space. Since the building has no window, you are led up to the top level in this spiral. Every one of the six different floors has a unique shape. Walking through the galleries, you almost feel like the art is closing in on you as you reach the top, where suddenly you step into this sun-drenched gallery. The rooftop is made with glass, so sunlight casts itself down into the gallery during the day.
To end your evening in Polanco, you need to book yourself an incredible meal. Now don’t get me wrong, there are plenty of fine dining restaurants in Polanco that will be a real splurge, but you can also opt for something much more affordable if you want. You don’t need to splash out. But if you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime meal, this is the place to have it!
Pujol is by far the most popular restaurant, not just in Polanco but in all of Mexico City. In 2021 it moved up to #9 on the list of the World’s Best Restaurants! Chef Enrique Olvera created Pujol in 2000 and almost right away wowed the culinary world. His aim was to showcase Mexican cusine and the country’s rich history. Reservations are tough to get, so try to plan your visit about three-four months in advance.
Today chef Jesús Durón has taken over for Olvera but has continued to refine the incredible flavours and come up with new culinary adventures. The menu’s aim was to take traditional dishes and transform them into the modern era. The most famous of their dishes are their Mole Madre and Mole Nuevo. ‘Mole’ comes from the Nahuatl word ‘mōlli’ meaning “sauce,” and has traditionally been used in Mexican cuisine for centuries. Pujol’s mole features a dark “mother mole” which has been aged for around 2,500 days. The mother mole is served within a ring of the “new mole” with a side of tortillas you use to taste the mole all on its own to really appreciate and experience the flavour. The traditional tasting menu costs around $2000 MXN ($100 USD) without alcohol.
When we visited Pujol, we booked a seat for their taco-omakase experience. Omakase means “chef’s favourites” in Japanese and features a rotating 10-course featuring truly experimental takes on the conventional idea of a taco. The entire meal takes place inside their incredible glass dining room, which looks out to their natural gardens, where they grow many of the ingredients for the menu. The whole course was over 3-hours long and was more of an experience than a meal. Taco Omakase Menu costs around $3000 MXN per person ($147 USD) and includes alcohol pairings.
If you don’t manage to get reservations at Pujol, another incredible dining experience can be found at Quintonil. Quintonil was opened by Chef Jorge Vallejo, who started off at Pujol, where he made a name for himself. Quintonil takes the concept of showcasing Mexican flavours and turns the dishes on their head. Most of the ingredients on the menu are harvested literally 30 meters from where you’re sitting. They do offer a tasting menu with over 10-courses. This will cost you $3,280 MXN ($160 US) or with the alcohol pairing $5,235 MXN ($255). But if this is too expensive, you can also order from their a-la-carte menu with dishes ranging from $200-$500 pesos.
If you’re still looking to enjoy a traditional Mexican meal but can’t spend upwards of $100 per person, El Bajío is a fantastic choice. El Bajío was founded in 1972 by Raúl Ramírez Degollado and Alfonso Hurtado Morellón who brought traditional Mexican cuisine from Veracruz to Mexico City. They have a huge patio and a large, airy interior decorated with traditional Mexican arts and crafts. The portions are enormous, and the atmosphere feels like dining inside a big family kitchen. Dishes here cost around $165 MXN ($9 USD). And there is even a surprisingly exciting kid menu to choose from, making it such a great place to come as a family.
While many people will love to spend an evening in Polanco at chic bars like Gin Gin and Limantour Polanco, I prefer something a little different. In the north end of Polanco, behind a rather unseemly looking fence, is one of the coolest retro gems of the city; the Autocinema Coyote. Since 2011, the Autocinema Coyote has been the only drive-in movie theatre in Mexico City. But in addition to cars, there is also a little outdoor seating area where visitors without vehicles can spread out and enjoy a movie under the stars and enjoy a classic drive-in experience.
Autocinema Coyote plays everything from new releases to cult classics well into the evening. Sometimes when they show the old classics, people will show up in costumes and even perform along with the show! It’s such a great atmosphere. Check their website for the latest showings and which times are playing the films with English Audio, otherwise it’s usually dubbed in Spanish.
I hope you enjoyed this walking tour of the upscale streets of Polanco, Mexico City’s most exclusive neighbourhood. Let me know in the comments where your favourite stop was. Or if you have any particular stops you always make in this part of town!
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