Deep in the heart of southern France hides one of the most enchanting regions of the country: Provence. Staying in a small town in Provence weaves a spell over all those who enter, welcoming them into the countryside by rows of mesmerizing plane trees flanking the roadsides. As you cruise along, you gaze out of your window at the rolling green fields, topped by ancient villages perched on the edges of the hillsides. Waves of bright red poppies roll alongside the road, and fragrant oceans of lavender crash across the landscape during the hot summer months.
You meander through charming cobblestone streets into their vibrant markets filled with fresh produce. Locals peer out of their pastel-hued windows onto the street below, looking to see what each farmer’s harvest has brought in today. With a rich tapestry of history, culture, and natural beauty, there is nowhere more magical than staying in a small town in Provence.
But to truly appreciate the Provencal way of life, with its slowed-down pace, away from the hustle and bustle of the big city, one must immerse oneself into the region’s heart, within one of its many little villages. These small towns exude a timeless charm that captivates all those who enter. And while staying in these areas might require a bit of extra effort compared to staying in larger, more touristy towns, the rewards you reap are immeasurable. So, grab your sunhat, soak yourself in the warm Mediterranean ambiance, and let me guide you through all there is to know about staying in one of these hidden treasures of Provence.
Although the charms of Provence existed long before Peter Mayle ever stepped foot into their slopes, Mayle’s vivid descriptions and charming anecdotes captivated readers and sparked their desire to see what Provence was all about. Drawing them out of the big cities and into the countryside. Mayle’s books, “A Year in Provence” and “Toujours Provence,” painted a picture of the stunning landscapes, picturesque villages, and colourful markets that make up Provence’s tapestry. However, one of the most important aspects that make his books so enchanting is his small town and the people therein. While you can drive through Provence and see all the big sights, it is only by immersing yourself in village life, meeting the locals and exploring those otherwise ubiquitous corners that you can truly create a connection with the country.
Even in towns like Aix-en-Provence or Arles, you can feel the palpable stomping of tourists scattering around town from morning to night. But every time I would drive back into our little village, the overwhelming sense of peace and calm washed over us like diving into a cold pool on a hot day. Such a relief. And if you’re looking to stay in an antique villa at a fraction of the cost of a luxury hotel or BnB, these hillside towns have plenty! They are fantastic for family getaways where everyone can get their rooms spread out across the house, but all come together for divine dinners on the terrace looking over the valleys or sprawling olive groves.
Small towns are also great, as the kids quickly get the lay of the land. It was nice to be able to take them to the same bakery or grocery store every day, and literally, by the second day, they could find their way on their own since there was just one road into town.
The region of Provence covers an area of approximately 31,400 square kilometres (12,100 square miles). Stretching out all the way to the coastline of the Mediterranean Sea across the rolling hills of the countryside. It encompasses several provinces, including Bouches-du-Rhône, Vaucluse, Var, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, and parts of Alpes-Maritimes and Hautes-Alpes. Provence has some of the best rental properties anywhere in Europe. You can find literal castles and houses built from the ruins of 17th-century houses. Vrbo is my favourite site for booking vacation rentals. Just put in the dates you’re looking to stay in Provence, and it might be the property that defines the area you want to stay in rather than the other way around. This is how I discovered what would become my favourite little village in Luberon the first time I visited Provence in 2017.
I always recommend the Luberon or the Vaucluse for first-time visitors to Provence. These areas are perfectly situated in the centre of the province. So driving to all those other sights around Provence won’t mean a time-consuming road trip. If you stay along the coast, you might be able to enjoy those ocean views, but it will also mean long car rides every time you want to adventure out into the countryside.
Some of my favourite small towns in the area are Menerbes, Uzès, Lacoste, Saint-Remy, Oppede, Loumarin, and (the one I try to keep secret) Merindol. But as mentioned above, let the property get you excited. All the towns in these areas are fantastic, and each has a unique charm. You’ll find many rental options in larger cities like Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Nimes and Avignon, but I prefer staying somewhere a little more remote as the prices are often cheaper and the experience is all the richer!
If you are visiting in the summer, one of my most important recommendations is to look for properties with a pool. The addition of a private pool was also a huge bonus for us. The summer weather in Provence can get pretty hot. And the pool was the perfect way to cool off after a long day. We were there in early May, and even then, the pool was handy for those surprisingly hot afternoons. If you’re travelling with kids, a pool is like an attraction all on its own. And it’s a fantastic way of tiring the kids out! After playing around for just an hour in the pool, the kids were tired enough to allow us to have a relaxing night in. Sitting on the terrace, looking out at the view and enjoying a glass of local wine, all while the kids are sound asleep. Pure perfection.
Another big plus, especially if you have little kids that you don’t want to load into the car all the time, is choosing your home base in a little village within walking distance of the town centre. You don’t always need to get in the car for dinner or groceries. Many houses that are the most charming, due to their age, may not have air conditioning, and if you’re visiting in the summer, you’ll want to consider this in advance of your booking, as many North Americans aren’t used to a lack of AC in the hot summer months.
Another important aspect of renting a vacation house in Provence is the kitchen. While eating out in France is fantastic, after long days of travelling, especially for those with kids, having a great kitchen and picturesque dining room or exterior patio makes a huge difference in enjoying your holiday. There’s nothing better than shopping at the local market and bringing it all home to lounge and snack through the evening, watching the sunset across the Luberon Valley.
We rented a very old house with an updated kitchen, making dining at home a simple pleasure. If you’re American, in France, or in many other European countries, oven temperatures are measured in degrees Celsius (°C). If you have a recipe or cooking instruction that requires setting the oven temperature in France, you’ll likely need to convert it to Celsius if it’s originally in Fahrenheit (°F).
The French love to dine out at restaurants and cafes, and even the smallest provencal towns will have a small, local restaurant where you can enjoy simple, traditional French cuisine, often highlighting ingredients that are so local, you can see them growing from the outdoor patio.
Even the family-run establishments showcase the region’s famous dishes, such as ratatouille, bouillabaisse, and tapenade. In small towns, you’ll typically find at least one or two traditional French restaurants, but there are usually several other types of cuisine, from Chinese to Italian. Even in our tiny town of Merindol, which has a population of just over 2,000, there were five restaurants, one of which served delicious sushi! It’s common for these restaurants to close in the afternoon between lunch and dinner services and have at least one closing day per week, typically Monday, but you should always check their posted hours.
Don’t trust Google Opening Hours
This brings me to my next point: don’t rely on Google Maps to provide accurate opening hours. Honestly, this tip is just as relevant all across France. I can’t count the times I checked the opening hours online and showed up to find the shop was closed. I always rely on the signs they have posted on the front of the shop, but since you often won’t find these until you arrive, just remain flexible and have alternatives for eating out or shopping.
A “Tabac,” formally known as a “bureau de tabac,” is a French corner store officially licensed to sell tobacco products such as cigarettes, cigars, and pipe tobacco. But, besides tobacco, most Tabacs also sell various other items, including newspapers, lottery tickets, postage stamps, and sometimes small gifts like keychains or cards. In small Provençal towns, as in different parts of France, Tabacs often serve as social hubs, providing a place for locals to meet, catch up on news, and even enjoy a coffee or an apéritif. In my small town, this was the only “coffee shop” where you could come and get a later in the morning.
I remember the first time I wanted to go inside. I was so nervous as the inside was filled with locals, and I was worried about feeling out of place, but with a resounding “bonjour!” upon walking in the door, they greeted me with a smile and welcomed me in to join in the socializing. I was astounded by the quality of the coffee they made, considering I thought this was nothing more than a corner store, but I got the same calibre as any other cafe in France. So don’t be intimidated, and make sure you visit a Tabac during your stay; you might even meet some locals and get the inside scope of all the best things to do in the area. Even if you don’t speak French, you’ll be surprised how much you can understand through non-verbal communication.
Unlike in major cities like Paris or Marseille, small towns in France, especially Provence, will not have many people who speak anything close to fluent English. And that’s what makes these villages feel authentic and charming. But because of this, it’s advisable to be prepared to speak some French when visiting Provence. Here are some essential French phrases to help you communicate during your stay:
Basic Greetings and Politeness
Getting Around
Dining and Food
Every morning, no matter how early or tired, I would leap out of bed to greet the sun with a smile, knowing I could wander down the road and pick up some of the freshest bread and pastries known to man from my local Boulangerie. The Boulangerie is cherished in the cultural and daily life of small Provençal towns. They anchor daily routines, opening doors early to offer a cozy spot for community gatherings and friendly chats. In Provence, where the pace of life is slower, and the appreciation for good food runs deep, boulangeries embody the regional commitment to quality.
Traditionally, boulangeries in Provence offer a variety of breads like baguettes, boules, and fougasses—an area specialty infused with ingredients like olives, cheese, or anchovies. They also often sell pastries, including croissants and pains au chocolat, which are staple breakfast items for many locals.
Even in the smallest village, you’ll find a little boulangerie, a market stall or a bread van that delivers fresh bread daily. This is due to the Bread Laws, or “Bread of Equality,” dating back to the French Revolution in 1793. These laws mandated that all citizens should have access to the same quality of bread, abolishing distinctions between bread made for the rich and the poor. The modern regulations, specifically the French Bread Law of 1993 (Le Décret Pain), focus more on the quality and methods of bread production. This law specifies that traditional French bread must be made on-site where it is sold, without any additives or preservatives, and must consist only of four ingredients: flour, water, salt, and yeast. These regulations help preserve traditional baking methods and maintain the high quality of French bread, particularly baguettes, ensuring they are made according to longstanding traditions.
Since small towns often have a small number of staff, stores and restaurants will often have more closures throughout the week than in bigger cities. This is to ensure their employees get enough time off.
During the day, you’ll see everything closes at noon, save perhaps for some food shops. The shop owners go out for lunch and often have a little French siesta before reopening in the late afternoon.
In small Provençal towns, the tradition of Sunday as a day for church and relaxation remains strong. Most shops, including some of the larger grocery stores, close in observance of this custom, so if you need any groceries, be sure to do this before the weekend.
When visiting a tiny Provencal town, remember you are a guest. Therefore, you should treat every visit to a store, Taba,c or Boulangerie, as if entering a friend’s home. And what do you do when you see a friend? Say hello. In French culture, saying “Bonjour” is more than just a way to say hello—it’s a warm expression of respect and politeness. Using “Bonjour” also helps create a friendly atmosphere, making social interactions smoother and more cooperative. It’s especially important in service and business settings, where it sets the stage for a conversation by showing you’re ready to engage respectfully and follow social etiquette.
One of my favourite travel stories is about a local pizza shop we often visit for takeout. On one visit, my husband noticed creme brulee on the dine-in menu and asked if we could get one to go. Even though they had no takeout containers, they generously let us take the creme brulee home in one of their ceramic dishes, trusting us to return it the next day. I was touched by their trust and willingness to accommodate us, and I believe this kind of trust all starts with a confident “bonjour!”
Wine bars are quite common in Provence, a region in southern France known for its exquisite wine production. A culture that is deeply embedded in the local lifestyle. You’ll find a variety of wine bars even in small towns throughout the region. From casual spots where locals gather to more upscale venues offering extensive wine lists featuring local and international selections, there is almost somewhere to spend the evening away over a glass of wine and make new friends! The Wine Bar in Merindol was a popular spot during the afternoon for cross-country cyclists to pass through, as it was no doubt on their Provence tour. I loved sitting here and meeting them as they came through, as they were usually from outside of France and almost always spoke English. I’m not a wine aficionado, so I never worry too much about what to order; I just point to one of the local house wines and usually am more than pleased with the fantastic selection!
Provence is famous for its vibrant outdoor markets; visiting it is a must-do experience. Even the smallest towns in Provence usually have some local market, even if it’s just a single fruit stand from the farmer down the road. In regions like Provence, where nearby towns might compete for the same vendors and customers, market days are scheduled on different days to avoid direct competition. This helps vendors maximize their customer base and allows locals and tourists to visit multiple markets weekly. If you aren’t sure when the market is open in your small town, either just ask around or visit this website to find a list of all the markets in Provence.
These markets are a treasure trove of local produce, artisanal crafts, and regional specialties. Take the time to stroll through the stalls, sample freshly picked fruits, and purchase unique souvenirs to bring back home. The markets allow you to interact with locals, practice your French, and immerse yourself in the lively atmosphere.
If you’re staying in a small town in Provence, you’ll need to rent a car. Although touring Provence by train is possible, the smaller villages are not near train stations, and getting around to see all the sights across Provence requires a vehicle. Driving in Provence can be both exhilarating and challenging. The biggest piece of advice is to rent a smaller car as often you’ll find yourself navigating narrow village streets and tight parking spaces. You’ll want to ensure you have a GPS for the car to know where you’re going. If you have data on your phone, you can always use apps like Waze or Google Maps, but if you don’t plan on using data when travelling, you can usually rent a satellite GPS from the rental car company.
Whenever you’re travelling on the highways, be aware that you will encounter toll roads (autoroutes) when driving in France. These roads are well-maintained and are the quickest way to travel long distances, but be sure to have some euros handy for the toll booths. They also accept Visa, Eurocard, and Mastercard, but coins are the most reliable if the card machines aren’t working.
As you explore Provence, you’ll encounter roundabouts, a common feature that might be rare in your home country. Approach these with caution, reducing your speed and remembering that vehicles already in the roundabout have the right of way. If you’re taking the first exit, stay in the right lane and signal right. For later exits, use the inside lane and only shift to the outer lane to exit, signalling as you approach your intended exit. These simple rules will ensure your safety and the smooth flow of traffic.
In France, fuel is sold by the litre, not the gallon, so you’ll need to keep this in mind if you’re from the US. Since a litre is smaller than a gallon (1 gallon = approximately 3.785 litres), prices per litre will seem significantly lower than per gallon, but you should convert to compare accurately. Gas stations in France typically offer unleaded petrol (essence) and diesel (gazole). Select the right type for your rental car, as European diesel engines are common. Unleaded petrol is often labelled as “Sans Plomb 95” or “Sans Plomb 98,” referring to the octane rating.
Ensure you familiarize yourself with local driving laws. In France, you drive on the right-hand side of the road. Speed limits are usually 30-50 km/h in towns, 80 km/h on departmental roads, and 110-130 km/h on motorways, depending on the weather conditions. Foreign drivers in Provence should be especially mindful of speed traps and the risk of traffic tickets. Speed cameras are common throughout France, and they are often strategically placed just after speed limit changes or on stretches of road where it’s tempting to drive faster, such as long, open highways. Tickets issued from these cameras will usually find their way to you through your car rental agency, which can add additional handling fees to the cost of the fine.
When we travelled in Provence each time, we were shocked to get more than one traffic ticket for speeding, even though we often only went 5 km over the limits. It’s almost advisable to plan on budgeting to pay at least one or two fines, as avoiding the speed traps as a tourist seems impossible. Be sure to ask the agent at the rental car agency how these fines are handled, as often the different agencies will process the fines in different manners, and you want to ensure the fines are paid as soon as possible, as often they are reduced for prompt payment.
In the end, staying in a small town in Provence is all about savouring life’s simple pleasures: the charm of historic cobblestone streets, the aroma of fresh lavender wafting through the air, and the joy of discovering hidden gems at the local markets. Whether you’re indulging in leisurely dinners on the patio, exploring the breathtaking landscapes of the Luberon Valley, or simply basking in the warmth of Provençal hospitality, there’s a magic here that leaves you feeling refreshed and inspired. So pack your bags, embrace the slower pace, and let Provence weave its spell on you—because once you’ve experienced the joy of small-town life in this sun-dappled region, you’ll be counting down the days until your next visit.
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