This tour will take you around some of Prague’s most famous streets and some off-the-beaten-track neighbourhoods. This is one of the most comprehensive guides to Prague’s street signs, and I have done my best to give you some hints at what the signs symbolize and where they can be found in the city! The tour has two parts: the Old Town and Malá Strana (or the Lesser Quarter). Let’s start with our guide to Prague’s Mala Strana House Signs.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of the Malá Strana Lesser Town House Signs Tour
2. History
3. Nerudova Street
4. Úvoz 
5. Vlašská Street 

Map of the Malá Strana Lesser Town House Signs Tour

History

Identifying houses with symbol signage is an antiquated practice that dates back to ancient Egypt. The oldest house sign, made with stone relief, was documented in Ptolemaic Egypt (Giza), dating back to the 3rd century BC. Hundreds of years ago, being able to read was a skill only the nobles or academics possessed. Since most citizens could not read, craftsmen used symbols to identify their businesses so people could find goods and services around town. 

The oldest house signs in Prague date back to the early 14th century. While the first house signs were used to identify occupations, later symbols were created to distinguish the surname of the home’s owner. This system was maintained until 1770 when Bohemia finally adopted the official numbering system. It was one of the last European cities to make the change, thereby preserving so many of these signs for posterity.

The oldest house signs were made of stone and carved with various reliefs. In the baroque age, these signs were made of stucco and plaster. Baroque designs were also painted onto plaster cartouches or tablets and placed onto the facade. Finally, in the later 18th century, the signs were made of metal or wood, more resilient against the elements. These signs were also sometimes hung off the sides of the buildings or placed on boards so that the signs could be more easily replaced should the house be sold off. Because there were only so many different symbols that could be used, sign makers would employ different coloured combinations. This would ensure people could tell the difference between establishments.

The Prague House Sign Numbering System

Prague went through two different numbering systems when the city was enumerated. You can still see both of these numbering systems identified on the front of each house. On each house, two number plates are printed; one on a red plate and the other on a blue plate. The numbers in red are called “descriptive” numbers and date back to 1770. These red numbers seem placed haphazardly as the numbers don’t proceed sequentially from house to house. This is because when the soldiers were designating house numbers, they allocated the next number in the sequence to the newest house built. They did not base the numbers on the following geographic location. So even if your house was far from the previous house on the street, you’d receive the next number in the sequence. 

The blue numbers, however, are instead based on geographic orientation. These were installed when the city was renumbered in the late 19th century. Interestingly, they kept the old red numbering system up despite its confusing nature—another quirky bit of charm which makes Prague such an interesting city.

Maltézské náměsti 3/474, At the Golden Snake

A gold merchant once owned the house of the Golden Snake. Since snakes symbolize transformation, any goldsmith who could turn rock into a beautiful piece of jewellery would have been drawn to the snake’s image. And, of course, it needed to be painted in gold! The house dates back to the Middle Ages, but the current facade is from 1853, designed by František Wolf.

Karmelitská 379/18, House at the Golden Hands

Karmelitská Street was built in the Middle Ages behind the walls of Mala Strana, or “Lesser Town.” The name comes from the Barefoot Carmelite Order, which owned the land. The house at #18 on Karmelitská was once owned by the Thun-Hohenstein family. This noble family has a strong connection with the Masonic order. Many people say that Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart came to Prague because of their influence. The house symbol on the front of the portal to the house depicts a three-handed handshake, giving the place its name, House at the Golden Hands. A three-handed handshake is so strange that many suspect it is a secret handshake. Although I don’t know how “secret” it can be when it’s being revealed right on the front of the building.

Prokopska 10, the Little Black Horse

Prokopská Street was named after the church of St. Procopius, which was founded in the 13th century along this lane. In the 18th century, the church was transformed into a residential house by architect Ignác Jan Nepomuk Palliardi. The home at #10 is known as the Little Black House, or “U černého konička,” and was built in the 16th century. Above the doorway into the home is a little rudimentarily carved horse hopping over a hillside. Horses generally represent a driving force, but black horses represent a more mysterious meaning or shadow self—a very ominous symbol for a household. Today the house serves as a lovely apartment complex.

Dražického nám. 76/12, The Three Ostriches

Located right at the mouth of the Charles Bridge is U tří pštrosů or the Hotel of The Three Ostriches. The original house was built in 1597 as an old medieval public house. Despite the age of the home, the painting on the front of the facade is fantastically preserved! Jan Fux, an exotic feather trader, bought the house in the 16th century.

The Ostriches on the facade represent the gift that he gave to Charles IV for his coronation. In 1714 the building was purchased by Armenian entrepreneur Gorgos Hatalah who opened the city’s first coffee shop in the Three Ostriches.

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Mostecká #4, The House of St. Saviour 

Mostecká Street was an important part of the former Royal Route. The Royal Route was the pathway that the royal procession followed during the King’s coronation. So many houses along the road were own by prominent Czech nobles. The home at #4 was originally two smaller houses built in the gothic period. In the Renaissance, the interiors were joined together, but the exterior still retains two separate facades. 

The one on the right is the House of St. Saviour. This home maintains a baroque appearance. The beautiful house on the right is painted in a gorgeous bright baby blue. Set into the portal above the door is a small niche with the statue of St. Saviour. Surrounding the niche is a frame carved into the form of the acanthus plant. The acanthus is a plant that symbolizes enduring life.

Mostecká #4, At the Bear and Chain

The house on the left is the house At the Bear and Chain. In contrast, the pale yellow building on the left maintains its simpler renaissance facade. On top of the house is a relief of a bear with a golden chain. Legend has it that a rich widow fell in love with a bear tamer, but he died before the two could be wed. The window had the bear made in honour of her lover. She added the golden chain, which represented a golden wedding ring, encircling the bear forever. 

Mostecká #11, At the Black Eagle

This gorgeously decorated baroque exterior hides within a medieval house. The home was made for the court of the Archbishop of Mayence. Rich sculptural decorations and wrought grilles cover the entire facade. Above the second floor’s main windows are two great black eagles, which give the house its name, “At the Black Eagle.” Eagles are an imperial symbol. As the house was made for an archbishop, the title seems fitting. 

On the very top of the exterior is a Baroque statue of St. Florian. St. Florian was an officer in the Roman army in the 3rd century but betrayed his order and freed dozens of enslaved Christians. When caught, he was flayed and drowned with a giant stone tied around his neck. He is the patron saint of firefighters, and his statue is often placed atop houses for protection against fires.

Mostecká #20, At the Three Golden Rings 

This pale house with a fading classical facade displays three golden rings intertwined above the doorway. The three rings seem to form a chainlink. It is said that the symbol for the house At the Three Golden Rings was created by a loving father after these three daughters were married and left the nest. It was a way for him to keep them in his heart forever. But other people suspect that the three rings represented the mystical circle of life: birth, maturity and death. This symbol was often used by the Mother Goddess cult, and perhaps this was where their coven would meet.

Malostranské nám. 4, At the Golden Cluster

Malostranské nám. or “Lesser Town Square,” was the medieval marketplace for Lower Town citizens. Here everything from social events to executions would take place. Opposite the church, on the corner of the building at #4 is a beautiful carving poking out from the stone. It shows the large, swollen face of a man (most likely Baucaus) and below him is a large bunch of golden grapes. Giving the house the name “At the Golden Cluster.” Baucus’s image and the grapes indicate that this building was most likely used as a banquet hall and today serves as a rowdy beer hall.

Tomášská #4, The Golden Stag

Tomášská Street was named after the Church of St. Thomas and the Augustinian monastery, founded in 1285 along this lane. At #4 we find the great house of the Golden Stag. The house was built for moneylender Jan Kašpar Friedrich in 1726. On the front of the house, we see the large sculpture of Saint Hubert. While the sculpture seems normal enough, look twice, and you’ll spot a phantom hand emerging from the belly of the stag. This, as per the story, is how Christ appeared to Saint Hubert while he was hunting in Ardeen’s forest.

Tomášská 12, the Golden Pretzel

In the 17th century, a famous baker Kryštof Krob bought this house and installed this sign on top, which symbolizes the bakers guild, a Golden Pretzel. Pretzels have been used a symbols for bakers since medieval times. In 610, a monk-baker invented the pretzel when he was trying to come up with a reward for children who learned their prayers. He twisted the dough, so it looked like the formation of arms crossing your chest in prayer. He called it “pretiola,” Latin for “little reward.”

Valdštejnská Street 8, House of the Three Storks

Valdštejnská Street was named after a small settlement of Písek people who moved to Prague. In this area is where you’ll find the House of the Three Storks. The house dates back to the 14th century and still contains remains of its Renaissance interior. The storks represent carriers of good news, which was a popular symbol for hospitality. The house was mentioned in a famous poem by writer Nazım Hikmet for his lover, who sadly died. It goes, “We used to meet at the Three Storks Restaurant in Prague. Now I am standing by the road with my eyes shut: You are far from me, the length of one death. You are a distorted image in a broken mirror”. 

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Valdštejnské 20, the Golden Sun

Valdštejnské #20, or the House of the Golden Sun, is now the Comenius Pedagogical Museum dedicated to Czech education history. The building in which they are located is from the Renaissance, built-in 1540. One of the house owners was the guardian of the royal silverware for Rudolf II, Havel Oberšvender. Rudolf was obsessed with alchemy. As such, it is no surprise to see the symbol of the golden sun on the doorway, a famous symbol in alchemy.

Nerudova Street

Nerudova street has perhaps the largest concentration of old house signs in Prague. The street is part of the former Royal Route. Nerudova street was created during the new founding of the Lesser Town under the rule of Přemysl Otakar II. In 1267, it formed the main axis of the western and eastern roads of the Lesser Town. The street gets its name from Czech writer and poet Jan Neruda, who lived in various houses along the street during his time in Prague.

Nerudova 2, At the Black Eagle

The house At the Black Eagle is a hodgepodge of architectural styles. It was initially a gothic house with Renaissance stone portals but now bares a baroque and classical exterior. The facade contains richly painted sgraffito and stucco decorations. The giant black eagle which sits above the doorway has its wings spread wide. On his tail is a small gold caduceus symbol, which marks it as an old pharmacy. The pharmacy was located here as early as the 15th century and still serves the public as a pharmacy to this day!

Nerudova 6, At the Red Eagle 

Eagles are one of the most popular symbols along the street as only a few stops down, we find ourselves at another house which bears the symbol of an eagle. This one is red, and instead of being a carving, it is a fresco painted onto the building. The house At the Red Eagle is a gorgeous example of refined rococo designs from the 18th century. The symbol of the Red Eagle is placed in a small frame, held on either side by two beautiful angels. The eagle sits perched on a tall mound with its wings outstretched, showing off its dominance.

The eagle has been known to be a symbol of regeneration, much like the Phoenix. When these birds reach the end of their lives, they set themselves on fire and are reborn again. Rebirth was an essential part of alchemy and is thought to indicate magic taking place in this house.

Nerudova 12, At the Three Fiddles

This gothic house At the Three Fiddles with a baroque facade was once the home of three families of famous violin makers. The most notorious violin maker who lived and worked here was T. Edlinger. Edlinger was even the founder of Prague’s violin-making school. Unsurprisingly their house symbol is three violins set against a sea of blue and golden stars. 

Nerudova 14, Valkounsky House 

After seeing so many houses with the same symbols, it’s so exciting to discover something new! On the front of this house is a carving of the creature Medusa with a head full of golden snakes! This house was once owned by Knight Bohuchval Valkoun from Adlar from the beginning of the 17th century. Originally it was built in the 16th century, but after the great fire of 1541, it had to be torn down and reconstructed. As mentioned before, snakes are a symbol of transformation and are popular with goldsmiths. A famed goldsmith bought the house in the 18th century, and it was he who added the house symbol of Medusa. After all, the only thing that is more impressive than one golden snake is a head full of them!

Nerudova 16, At the Golden Goblet

In 1705, the famous Italian-Czech architect Jan Blažej Santini Michel bought this house. He called it “U zlaté číše,” which translate into “At the Golden Goblet” after the Goblet which is carved onto the front of the building. Before Santini, master goldsmiths Jan Schumann lived here in 1660. The Golden Chalice is the symbol of the goldsmith’s guild. The Chalice also symbolized the Holy Grail. The holy grail was thought to be a cup that would bring the drinker eternal life and is also known as the Philosopher’s Stone. So many alchemists also use the Chalice as a symbol of their craft.

Nerudova 11, At the Red Lamb

“U Červeného Beránka” or House At the Red Lamb is a neo-baroque house built in the late 1800s. Above the doorway into the house is a large sculpture of a gentle red lamb walking atop a lush mound of green grass. Lambs symbolize innocence and are often associated with Jesus’ sacrifice (i.e., the sacrificial lamb). Red is also a colour that is frequently associated with martyrdom and the blood of Christ. Since the house is dedicated to sacrificing, it is no surprise we also find a painting of the Madonna atop the house’s facade. 

Nerudova 26, At the Golden Eagle

The house At the Golden Eagle is a Renaissance home located in the spot where the old royal moat previously ran through. The house belonged to a family of builders, the Aostalis, from 1549 onwards. These architects were responsible for several royal buildings, including the Ball Games Hall in Hradčany. Unlike the previous eagles we have seen, which have their wings spread wide, this eagle is perched with closed wings. Closed winged eagles are not a very common symbol as an eagle with closed wings symbolizes it being trussed up or bound. Perhaps this is a subtle message from the owner that he was bound up by something and not allowed to spread his wings and be free.

Nerudova 25, The Donkey in the Cradle

The house at #25, called the Donkey in the Cradle, is the former residence of alchemist Edward Kelley. The house is originally a gothic house but with a renaissance and baroque facade. In addition to Kelley, the house was also home to Jan Neruda and his family, who lived and owned a store here before moving up the street. Above the doorway was once a beautiful fresco of the Birth of Jesus, but it has faded badly over time. Today only the donkey and the baby cradle are visible. But the donkey has strong connections to the alchemical world, so it is no surprise that it would find itself in a prominent position on the house of the previous court alchemist. 

The first historical evidence of alchemy was in Egypt, and it is said that God Isis was the first alchemist. In Egpyt, Lucius, a pompous and vain magician, was misusing his magic and accidentally turned himself into a donkey. He toiled for years as an ass and finally succumbed to asking for help by praying to Isis. Isis told him that he could only become human again if he ate a garland of roses during Isis’ holy procession. An act of great submission. He did so, and after transforming back into his human body, Lucious became one of Isis’s most loyal devotees. The story is one of humility and how dangerous alchemy can be if it is not respected.

Nerudova 27, At the Golden Key

Initially, a Renaissance house, the house At the Golden Key, portrays lovely Baroque and Classicist adaptations. The house sign is a richly decorated golden key set in a baroque cartouche that dates back to 1844. Keys are thought to represent enlightenment, and golden keys represent the power that allows someone to be worthy of entering into eternal life. As the philosophers stone was the alchemical discovery that would purportedly restore eternal life, one can only imagine if this house symbol was a clue to the Philosopher’s Stone’s secrets.

Nerudova 28, At the Golden Wheel

The house At the Golden Wheel was an old Renaissance house built where the old moat divided Hradčany and the Prague Castle. The golden wheel on the front of the house dates back to 1624, in the height of the alchemical craze! The symbol of the golden wheel represents a stage in the magnum opus, the process by which lead purportedly could be turned into gold. The wheel symbolizes time, as the cosmos and position of the earth and the sun were of the utmost importance in alchemy. Not only did all the chemical processes need to be done right, but you had to do them at the right time of year for the spells to succeed. 

Nerudova 34, the Golden Horseshoe 

The beautiful renaissance house at #34 is a stunning building. It is painted pale blue with dark blue trimmings. Above the doorway is a cartouche with the portrait of a St. Wenceslas riding a horse. Just below the cartouche is a golden horseshoe hanging off the house, giving the building the name the Golden Horseshoe. The horseshoe itself dates back to 1559. Look closely at the painting, and you’ll notice a real minature golden horseshoe sticking out from the picture. The man in the portrait is handsome and well dressed. As he trots along with his well-groomed horse, we can imagine that this sign might have been an example of early advertising for the blacksmiths who worked on Nerudova. The painting reflected the old Czech saying that “he who had his horse properly shod arrived safely.”

Nerudova 33, Bretfeld Palace

The Bretfeld Palace was originally an old baroque burgher house. The house was owned by Josef of Bretfeld, who was an avid collector and worldly host. He acquired a vast collection of books and paintings to entice people to visit his grand palace, where he held lavish parties and concerts. The court saw guests such as Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Giacomo Casanova. To spot the palace, look out for the mint and moss green coloured building with beautiful stucco reliefs on the facade. At the very top of the facade is the house symbol, a relief of St. Nicholas. St. Nicolas is the patron saint of sailors and pawnbrokers. I can imagine it was the pawnbrokers which Bretfeld was partial to as he would frequent their establishments to acquire so many of his treasures.

Nerudova 41, At the Red Lion

At house #41, a painting with a beautiful red lion is set against the red and white baroque facade, which marks the house At the Red Lion. Although the facade was made in 1726, the origins of the house date back to 1608, the date marked in the portal above the entryway. The relief depicts a great red lion rearing up on his hind legs, holding a golden chalice in his hand. The Chalice is thought to contain the elixir of life. The colour red in alchemy indicates the red matter left on the alchemical pot’s bottom after the sublimation step. Sublimation is the third step in creating the philosopher’s stone.

Neurdova 43, At the Green Lobster

One of my favourite house signs, a cheery green lobster, can be found here at #43, the Green Lobster house. Not only is the lobster a very different and surprising creature to see, but I also love the fact it is painted green. It really makes it stand out after seeing so many house signs painted red or gold. The lobster is a symbol of transformation, as crustations shed their skin to grow. Lobsters are a symbol of emotional growth, as we must leave things behind to grow ourselves.

Nerudova 47, the House of Two Suns

The Czech poet Jan Neruda spent much of his life on this street, living inside the house at #47, called the house At the Two Suns. Neruda’s father owned a tobacco shop here from 1845 to 1857. The house was built in the Renaissance but now bears a beautiful pale yellow with stuccos decorative baroque facade. The renaissance portal has still been preserved along with the house sign from the same period. 

The house is named after the relief of the two suns, which are located above the doorway. The suns are painted in gold, and each has a human face carved upon them. The faces look in opposite directions, keeping an eye on the street outside. Below them are the letters “IHS,” which is Jesus’ monogram. Just below the insignia is a flaming heart. In alchemy, the sun represents perfection. Alchemists strived to turn iron into gold. They were obsessed with gold as they felt it was a means of recreating the sun’s brilliance here on earth.

Nerudova 49, At the White swan

At number 49, we find the gothic house At the White Swan. Although the building’s exterior was renovated in the baroque era, the white swan’s stucco relief dates back to 1608. Swans are perhaps one of the most prevalent symbols of purity. In alchemy, black and white represent good and evil, or sinful and pure. The alchemist’s journey of transforming raw, dark material into its pure white form is like the sinner’s journey of corruption to piety. With the latter stage being represented by the beautiful white Swan.

Nerudova 51, the Little Green Stag

The house at #51 Nerudova has a simple jumping stag carved onto the front of the house. Although it is known as the Little Green Stag, the green colour has long since faded off the facade. ‘U Zeleného jelínka’ was a medieval house which was rebuilt in 1819. Although the building doesn’t have the same flash as the rest of the places on the street, it hides within its walls some of the most important structural elements from the medieval period in Prague. 

In alchemy, the final tincture in transforming base metals into gold was often symbolized as a stag. Stags represent masculinity, and unicorns represent femininity. When they meet in the forest, their unity is thought to represent the soul’s final transformation process, aka the last step in creating the philosopher’s stone.

Úvoz 

As we continue along Nerudova street, it swiftly changes into Úvoz street as we start up the hillside’s steeper part. The name ‘Úvoz’ is a modern name for the road, which comes from 1870. Before this street was called Hluboká, and before that, it was known as Strahovská cesta. ‘Úvoz’ translates into ‘Ravine‘ as this part of the street used to be a ravine cut through Lesser Quarter. You’ll find some of the most historic houses and signs along the road as this part of the city was spared from some of the fires that broke out in the rest of Prague.

Úvoz 4, At the Three Red Roses

The incredible house At the Three Red Roses at the start of Úvoz street was a baroque home from the 17th century. Giving the place its name is the large fresco of the Madonna on the front of the house. The fresco is framed in a beautifully carved stucco decoration with three red roses on the bottom. The rose is an essential symbol of the Virgin Mary as one of her holy titles is the Mystic Rose. If you look closely, you’ll notice these roses have no thorns as Mary is often called the “rose without thorns.” Many people believe that roses grew in the garden of Eden but without thorns. Only when Adam and Eve sinned did the roses grow thorns. And yet Mary, who is the most honourable symbol of purity, is still a rose without sin.

Úvoz 6, At the Three Axes

‘U tři seker’ or House At the Three Axes has one of the few original house signs in Prague. The baroque house is covered in wonderfully detailed stucco decorations. In the central cartouche on the front is the house symbol, which has the small axes interwoven. Traditionally axes were a symbol of the carpentry guild as the house was once the court carpenter’s residence. Today the house is occupied by a fantastic cafe.

Úvoz 14, At the Three Red Hearts

The theme of threes continues along the street at house #14, At the Three Red Hearts. This Renaissance townhouse with Baroque and Classical facade has another one of the oldest preserved house signs. The three hearts positioned to make the shape of a triangle has both a secular and spiritual meaning. The spiritual number of three represents the holy trinity; the father, son and holy ghost. The hearts are set against a backdrop that resembles fire, turning the icon into an image of the sacred heart, which burns with divine light. The secular meaning of the three hearts represents indecisive affection, like a love triangle. 

Úvoz 22, At the House of the Mirror

At the House of the Mirror at #22 on the street has a spectacular carving above the portal into the home. The baroque facade was built in 1730 and featured a stunning relief of a Madonna holding her baby Jesus. She is surrounded by a beautiful stucco frame covered in gold fillagree. You might be looking for a mirror on the building, seeing as it is in the name, but you won’t find any. Instead, the mirror is more symbolic. The little baby Jesus is holding in his hand the ‘Scales of Justice.’ This symbolizes that you are meant to see yourself through God’s eyes, like a mirror but live your life by the standards of Jesus.

Úvoz 24, At the Stone Column

This old renaissance house At the Stone Column has a bizarre addition, which gives it its name. In 1697 the house was owned by Czech painter Kristián Luna. Stuck on the side of the house, complete out of place and not incorporated into the structure at all, is a giant stone column with a small statuette of the Virgin Mary on the top of the column. Despite being called “stone,” the column is actually made of stucco with a wooden frame. The column was added to the house in 1706 and is a copy of the Marian column, located in the old town square (although the original was destroyed in 1918).

On either corner of the house are two stone busts. One depicts a woman with the word “luna” or moon underneath. The other is a man with the word “sol” or the sun underneath. Both of the busts face either direction. They are perfectly positioned so that the other is always in shadow when one is in the sunlight.

Vlašská Street 

Vlašská Street is home to various large royal palaces. The area was settled in the 13th century, but it wasn’t until the 16th century when the district began to flourish. A series of wealthy Italians moved into the area and bought up several large land plots for their grand palaces. Soon enough, it was one of the most sought after neighbourhoods in Mala Strana.

Vlašská 26, At the Black Elephant

Dům U Černého slona or House at the Black Elephant is one of the oldest homes on the street, dating back to the 13th-century. The house sign on the front of the medieval facade is beautiful. In the middle ages, elephants were known to imbue moral messages of kindness and devotion. They are also commonly associated with wisdom. Clearly, whoever lived here wanted everyone to know how wise he was. And what a treat it would have been for residents of the street to gaze upon such an exotic creature as they were on their way to the market or just off on a stroll.

Vlašská 24/330, At the Three White Crosses

The build on the corner of the street is a renaissance house with a Classicist 19th-century reconstruction. You can find the house sign between the 1st and 2nd floor, which gives it the name At the Three White Crosses. The symbolism of three crosses symbolizes Calvary. The highest cross in the group represents Jesus’ crucifixion. The other two on either side represent the two thieves that were hung alongside him. Calvary is often used to denote an experience of usually intense mental suffering. 

Vlašska 9/355, At the Three Red Roses

Down a small lane just off Vlasska street is the yellow facade of the house At the Three Red Roses. The house was built in 1612 when it was purchased by the Italian stonemason and sculptor Antonio Brocco. Brocco was responsible for the creation of the Singing Fountain in Queen Anne’s Summer Palace. In Greek and Roman mythology, roses are often linked to Aphrodite, the Goddess of Love. 

Vlašská 2, At the Golden Scales

“U zlaté váhy” or the House of the Golden Scales dates back to the 16th century. The symbol of the house is located above the green doorway. While a symbol for justice might seem out of place at an ordinary residence, a tawdry tale goes along with this symbol. Legend has it that a beautiful young woman was engaged to be wed to one of the wealthy Italians who lived on the lane. He had a bad reputation for cheating on her and would frequently go away on long trips where he could have his dalliances. He never returned after one such trip, but the poor girl waited for him for years until age turned her into an old and undesirable woman. 

When her fiance finally returned, she found he had forgotten all about her. Enraged, the now old woman killed her lover. She returned home and placed the golden scales on her door before killing herself. The scales acted as a kind of suicide note indicating that she felt his death was the just punishment for his crimes and her own death the punishment for her actions as well.

Břetislavova 8/305, At the Golden Axe

At the end of Vlasska street, turn up the street parallel called Břetislavova. At #8 we find the House at the Golden Axe. The house sign on the front of the facade depicts a great double-headed eagle. The eagle is crowned with a golden crown and holds its wings around an orb and sceptre. The original house here was built in 1596 but purchased in 1685 by court painter Christian Schröder. Schröder became an inspector of the royal picture gallery in Prague and, at the same time, an imperial and royal painter. The symbol of the double-headed eagle represents the monarchy, a form of government in which the king and the queen have power over everything.

Břetislavova 307/10, Krejčovská hospoda

This old renaissance townhouse was purchased in 1615 by the Masters of the Tailor’s guild. The terra-cotta baroque exterior dates back to 1723. In the center of the portal into the house is a stucco cartouche with a painting of the Coronation of the Virgin Mary.

This brings us to the end of the tour in Mala Strana. If you didn’t take the tour in the Old Town you can head back across the Vlatava River to the eastern side of town. Feel free to end the tour here and continue to explore the wonders of the Mala Strana and continue the second part of the tour another day! Let me know in the comment what your favourite house sign was or what your house sign would be if you were to have one.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

Resources:

Pamatkovykatalog | Kralovskacesta | Wiki Commons (imagery)

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The Slavs of Bohemia were slow to accept Christianity. They kept their Pagan spirituality strong for years despite the rest of Europe converting. These new Christians were repelled by anything mystical. Anyone wanting to preserve these practices moved to Bohemia, creating this powerful force amassed inside an otherwise small town. It is perhaps this connection to their nature-based spiritual roots, which strengthens Prague’s enchanting atmosphere. But what really ignited a fire for the mystical arts inside the walls of Prague was the Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II in the 16th century. He would forever change the future of Prague and alter the alchemy of the city itself.

When To Do the Tour?

This guided tour takes you across the entire city of Prague to all the different alchemical hot spots and historical markers. Get immersed in this city’s mystical nature and find out all the various myths and legends that hide behind closed doors.

The best time to start this tour is in the midafternoon. This gives you enough time to visit the museums and enter into Prague Castle. But allows for the remainder of the tour to take place at night when darkness creeps over the rooftops. Changing the appearance of the city, which is perfect for exploring these enchanting places. 

If you’d rather skip the spots in Mala Strana and stick to the city’s eastern side, you can quickly start the tour on the Charles Bridge. The second portion of the tour is located in one of the more touristy areas, so leaving it until later in the day always means fewer tourists.

History of Alchemy in Prague

In 1576, Emperor Rudolf II of Habsburg moved his court to the city of Prague. But why Prague? Well, Rudolf was drawn to the city’s mysterious past and mystical origins. He was a man obsessed with magic. Rudolf was a lover of arts, astronomers and alchemists. And he was obsessed with the idea of being the man who would discover the Philosopher’s Stone. With Rudolf’s obsession with alchemy, he invited some of Europe’s best magicians, astronomers, and alchemists to help him. These men of science and magic would not only change the course of Prague’s history but the course of the world itself, in their amazing discoveries.

Many people blame this obsession of his with the downfall of his empire. But modern historians have actually applauded these efforts to create an artistic and scientific Renaissance in Bohemia under his rule. But despite any hindsight analysis, Rudolf’s empire would crumble beneath him. He was thrown out of Power by his brother in 1611 and died soon after.

Emperor Rudolf II

Emperor Rudolf II was a huge patron of the alchemists, albeit perhaps not for the right reasons. He was obsessed with reading books on magic and the occult. He thought alchemy was more than just a science, but something that could turn fantasy into a reality. Rudolf became obsessed with the idea of discovering the Philosopher’s Stone. Rudolf had both personal and financial reasons for wanted to discover the stone. His empire was going bust, and he needed money quickly. And rather than acquire it by keen rule, he tried to acquire it by divination. Rudolf built his own laboratory on Prague hill. He performed his own experiments and invited astronomers, alchemists and even occultists to help him in his search for the beyond. This reputation soon earned him the nickname of the “Mad Emperor” or “Mad Alchemist.”

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What is Alchemy?

Alchemy originated in Egypt and Arabia and moved throughout the continent, finally landing in central Europe. The word is derived from the Arabian phrase “al-kimia,” which they coined for their elixirs. “Kimia” referred to the Nile delta soil, where many of their beneficial compounds would be obtained. Alchemy was one of the original branches of natural philosophy. Alchemists attempted to transform matter through purification, maturation, and perfecting certain materials. 

People in medieval times, however, viewed alchemy as a magical and mystical discipline. But, in reality, many alchemists were just modern-day scientists. They used techniques like distillation, and sublimation and would even record their experiences with hefty documentation. In fact, the word ‘alchemy’ is where we get the word ‘chemistry.’ Chemistry is the same kind of practice but using more advanced and systematic techniques.

Philosopher’s Stone

The earliest alchemists were responsible for creating fundamental discoveries such as phosphorous, zinc, metallic arsenic and even the big moneymaker – porcelain! But the alchemist had one main goal, to discover the Stone of Knowledge (better known as the Philosophers’ Stone.) This powerful alchemical substance was thought to provide eternal youth and could transform any metal into gold. But since science was such a widely misunderstood practice, many people thought alchemists were nothing more than charlatans. And truthfully, many of them were, but there was also an equal number of incredible discoveries made by men like Tycho Brahe, Johannes Kepler, and Isaac Newton.

Elias Ashmole

You might think the Philosopher’s Stone is just a creation from the Harry Potter novels, but its history goes back much further than that. Elias Ashmole and the anonymous author of Gloria Mundi (written in 1620) claim that its history goes back to Adam in the Garden of Eden. There, he acquired the knowledge of the Philosopher’s stone knowledge directly from God himself. It is mentioned throughout history by Plato, greek philosophers, Byzantine and Muslim alchemists, and the Arab emperor. 

Paracelsus

In the 16th and 17th century a symbol was even devised by the alchemists trying to discover the secret of the Philosopher’s Stone. 16th-century Swiss alchemist Paracelsus believed in the existence of alkahest, which he thought to be an undiscovered element. He believed alkahest was what all the other elements (earth, fire, water, air) were derived from. Paracelsus believed that it was this element, in fact, the was the Philosopher’s stone. He invented the ‘Squared Circle,’ which illustrated the four components’ interplay as one element.

The Alchemy Trail

The Great Work (or Magnum opus) was the alchemical term for the process of working with “prima materia” to create the Philosopher’s Stone. It has been used to describe personal and spiritual transmutation in the Hermetic tradition. The original opus had four stages, but the alchemy trail was better known to have seven steps.

Calcination or blackening

The first step was calcination or blackening. This happens when the prima materia is burned to ashes. In alchemy, when you change a physical material, you are not only changing the raw substance but also changing your own psychology. This stage is meant to represent the destruction of your inner self. In this blackening, you are left with no ego and can step into a new spirituality level.

Dissolution & Seperation

The next step is dissolution, where the ashes are turned into a fluid. Being fluid is akin to meditation, as it allows us to move in different directions. The third step is separation. By separating the elements, we can further study them and understand their true nature. This allows us to understand our true feelings once we can see the root of thought.

Conjunction

The fourth step is Conjunction, where other materials are added to the raw elements. This is seen as the marriage of man and woman, moon and sun, which creates the perfect spiritual balance. The fifth step is fermentation. After marriage, traditionally, we have a pregnancy, represented here by fermentation.  Distillation is the sixth step. This is achieved by boiling the elixir to make the mixture purer. Just as a newborn baby is the purest form of humanity not yet touched by evil or sin. The final stage is coagulation, where the new creation is formulated in a physical state. This is the extended version of our better self, and maturity has been achieved. Through all these steps, we have been reborn through this alchemical process.

Museum of Alchemists and Magicians

To start your tour magic and alchemy tour of Prague, I would recommend visiting the Museum of Alchemists and Magicians. Usually, these walking tours don’t include anything indoors. You can definitely skip this if you’re looking to avoid spending extra money or are short on time. But I think this quirky and fantastical museum is an excellent introduction to everything alchemical. It provides a beautiful visual window into Prague’s mysterious past.

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Sir Edward Kelley

The museum is relatively small, located on two levels inside what used to be Edward Kelley‘s old alchemy lab. Sir Edward Kelley was an English Renaissance alchemist, occultist and self-declared spirit medium. Kelley professed that he could summon spirits and even speak to angels. But perhaps the most exciting claim of his was that he possessed a red chemical that could turn base metals into gold. Upon hearing this, Emperor Rudolf II snatched him right up for his Royal Court and moved him to Prague. He gave Kelley large sums of money, land and even had him knighted. But by 1956, when Kelley hadn’t produced any of his promises to the Emperor, Rudolf had him imprisoned, where he died only a few years later.

Interior of the Museum

Inside the museum, you’ll find replicas of alchemical artifacts and dramatic scenes featuring statues of Prague’s alchemists themselves. There they stand, in-situ, reenacting historical scenes of their excellent work in the field of alchemy. This is a fantastical museum leans on legends as well as the facts. Just as the alchemists themselves were showmen, so too are these exhibits.

On the second floor of the building, you’ll climb stairs called the “spiral of life.” This staircase was built by Kelley in the 16th century as his “stairway to heaven” where he would sit and contact the angels. Stacks and stacks of grimoires line the walls. You’ll see how alchemist filled their laboratories with furnaces, retorts, bellows, animal skeletons and more!

Hours & Admission

Adults: 220,- Kč ($10 USD), Students: 160,- Kč ($7 USD), Child and seniors: 90,- Kč ($4 USD). Open Mon – Sun 10:00 – 20:00

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Alchemical Pub

After touring the museum, stop at Alchemical Pub, Kellyxir, to set the walking tour’s mood. This over-the-top cocktail bar is themed to look like an unbelievable alchemy lab inspired by Edward Kelley’s works. The building itself is a sight to behold. The ceiling dates back over 420 years. Bartenders hands out drinks served in tall glass beakers covered with dry ice. The smoke fills the room and creates a moody and mysterious atmosphere.

You can partake in a game that lets fate decide on your drink of choice. ‘Choose your Fate‘ is a game where you pick one of twelve tarot cards, and you will get a drink inspired by your chosen tarot card. This is a great way to get a pleasant surprise and let the bar lead you on your magical journey!

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Nerudova Street

On your way towards Prague castle, take a walk along Nerudova Street. If you look above the doorways, you’ll see that many houses have carved reliefs or symbols placed above their entrance. This is because, before 1770, there were no house numbers used in Prague. Instead, the way in which you would find where you were supposed to be going was to look for the house symbol. This started simply with tradespeople, a blacksmith for example would have a hammer and tongs, whereas the violin maker would have the image of a violin above their shop. But some of the symbols have a deeper meaning, with alchemical significance. There are still 264 buildings in Prague with symbols marking their location (although modern-day numbers have also been installed)

At the Two Suns

The first house we’ll stop by is the house At the Two Suns. This buttercream baroque facade is a new addition to this renaissance built house. Famously, this was were writer J. Neruda lived, for whom the street is named after. A large memorial tablet dominates the front of the building to commemorate his lifes work.

But for our purposes, take a look at the two golden suns which are to be found in a cartouche above the doorway. Each of the suns bears the image of a human face within them, but they don’t look too happy about it. Their eyes are looking in opposite directions, almost as if they are keeping guard. In tiny gold writing are the initials “IHS,” which sit above the image of a heart on fire. These initials represent the first three letters of the Greek name of Jesus, iota-eta-sigma, or ΙΗΣ. But curiously, the shape of the “H” looks like it is also forming a triangle. The triangle is the symbol in alchemy for fire, and the suns represent the symbol of gold. So perhaps the house is telling us this is the place where fire meets gold.

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At the Red Lion

This baroque facade dates back to 1726, but the building itself is much older. The house At the Red Lion portrays a fierce lion with a golden chalice clenched in its paw. The house sign dates back to 1608. The chalice in the lion’s paw is thought to represent the elixir of life or the Philosopher’s stone. The red hue painted onto the lion also hugely significant in alchemy. Red refers to “rubedo,” which means “redness.” Rubedo is the fourth or final stage in the magnum opus, which is the recipe for the Philosopher’s stone recipe. The chalice is also thought to represent the alchemical pot in which all the ingredients are mixture to form the elixir of life.

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At the Golden Wheel

At #28 we find the house At the Golden Wheel. The building is an original Renaissance house with a baroque facade but the signage above the door is from 1634! The golden wheel represents the full cycle of the magnum opus, of turning base metals into gold. The wheel also represents the year’s life cycle, just as the earth rotates, so does the golden wheel. In alchemy, the positioning of the cosmos is of the utmost importance, perhaps suggesting that the achievement of the elixir of life is only obtainable at certain times of the year.

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At the Golden Key

Across from the Golden Wheel, we also find the house At the Golden Key. The house dates back to the Renaissance but the cartouche above the doors is from 1844. The key symbolizes the fact that without the “right knowledge” the clues to unlocking the secrets to the Philosopher’s stone will be locked forever.

At the Golden Eagle

The renaissance house At the Golden Eagle once belonged to the Astralis family. In alchemy, eagles represent renewal or rebirth. In many different parts of the world, eagles were released at a ruler’s funeral to symbolize their soul’s departure to the gods above. One of the tenets of alchemy was the transmutation of base metals or liquids. To transform these materials into purer versions of themselves, you needed to destroy them for them to be reborn better. 

At the Red Lamb

The House At the Red Lamb is a neo-barque building built n 1891. The power pink facade is being held up but the bulk stone archway. Above the door is a stone symbol of a lamb, painted in red. Once more the red lamb here calls back to the Magnum Opus stage of rubedo when the raw materials are transmitted. Red can also symbolize the red powder, which Edward Kelley was so famous for using. Kelley claimed this red powder was the secret tincture to turn base metals into gold.

At the Golden Cup

Now a souvenir shop the house At the Golden Cup was once a renaissance goldsmiths’ workshop dating back to 1660. Gold was the end result of the magnum opus and although most goldsmith didn’t magically create gold, during the middle ages, any goldsmith was a suspected alchemist, especially the successful ones. The chalice represented in the doorway not only refers to the elixir of life but also the Holy Grail. Many people think that the Philospher stone is in fact the Holy Grail itself. From here, head up Zámecká street and up the Zámecké schody pathway towards Prague castle.

Golden Lane

Golden Lane is a street located inside Prague castle. You need a ticket to explore this historic area of town during the day, but after 4 pm, the castle complex exterior is open to the public. The buildings themselves in Golden Lane are closed, but you can still wander the streets and admire the facades. On either side of the narrow road are various colourful houses. This area wasn’t just for anyone; here, Rudolf II housed his most prized possession, which was, in fact, people. 

Despite much controversy, the street gets its name from a famous goldsmith who once lived along the lane. But legend has it that an alchemist did live on Golden Lane. In the 20th century, an old doctor of philosophy spent his life savings, collecting old books on magic and went about secret experiments in the same house on Golden Lane. One day, neighbours heard an explosion and came running. His home was on fire, and when firefighters finally extinguished the blaze, they found the old man dead inside, clutching a large piece of gold in his hand. Perhaps he finally accomplished what all those alchemists before him attempted. As the philosopher had spent his life savings on this home, no one could understand how else he would have come to possess such a large piece of gold…

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Mihulka Tower

While inside the castle, take a walk and see if you can spot the circular tower’s round red roof to the north of the Cathedral of St. Vitus. This is the Mihulka Tower or the first Powder Tower. The name comes from the fact that this tower was once an old storehouse for the city’s guard and their gunpowder. Mihulka Tower was where Edward Kelley worked on experiments for the Emperor. This laboratory was much closer to the Emperor’s residence, and therefore he could better study the alchemist’s progress. It was here that Kelley was to work on the discovery of the Philosopher’s Stone. After months and months, and no results, Rudolf had Kelley arrest and imprisoned in Krivoklat Castle and eventually in Golden Lane’s White Tower prison.

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Tycho Brahe’s House

Tycho Brahe was a Danish nobleman, astronomer, and writer but made most famous for his astronomical observations. His work with Johannes Kepler on the laws of planetary motion would forever change the way astronomers saw the universe. Prague wasn’t just a hub for mystics. Real scientists worked here as well. Tycho Brahe lived in Prague at N° 1 Nový Svět. This road was one of the most famous streets for alchemists. So many of them lived on this narrow lane, it was almost like a defacto fraternity. Brahe had been exiled by the King of Denmark after the two had a fevered disagreement.

Seeing an opportunity to invite a real scientific celebrity to town, Rudolf II jumped at the chance to meet Brahe! Brahe went on to become the official imperial astronomer and Rudolf built him an observatory at Benátky nad Jizerou but he also worked out of the royal observatory inside the Royal Summer Palace of Queen Anne. 

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Erasmus Habermehl

What initially drew Brahe to Prague was the invention of the sextant by Erasmus Habermehl housed in a lab in Prague in 1600. Brahe was obsessed with precision and these sextants allowed him to measure the angular distance between objects to the precision of 2 minutes of arc. Brahe was a well-known member of the royal court, perhaps too well known for his own good. One of the things which Brahe is most famous for is how he died. His death caused a massive uproar in the city. When dining at a large banquet, it was rumoured that he was poisoned, as the otherwise healthy astronomer died only 14 days after the public festivities. 

Many townspeople and noblemen thought he had been poisoned, possibly by his good friend Kepler himself! Hundreds of years later, when his body was exhumed and analyzed, they discovered he had died of nothing more than a kidney inflection. But hundreds of years ago, the rumour went wild and poor Kepler suffered at the hands of bad press.

Brahe’s Funeral

A huge funeral was arranged for Brahe, including a procession down the streets of Prague towards the Týn Church along the ‘Royal Way’. The procession included armed guards, banners flying high with his coat of arms emblazoned on them and a velvet-covered casket. Brahe was buried in Tyn church under the tombstone, which read, “Neither power nor wealth, only Art and Science will endure.” The old tombstone had to be replaced with a minimal black slab of stone with gold lettering. It can still be found on the church floor near the altar. If you’re interested in staying inside the house, his studio room has been transformed into a modern Airbnb rental!

Statue of Brahe and Kepler

Right near the tram stop, Pohořelec is a statue of the two great astronomers . Both men once lived in a house on this very spot. The old house has since been destroyed, but this statue was made to mark the site. Take a close look at Brahe’s nose. Notice anything peculiar? If it looks strange, this is because Brahe himself wore a fake nose. Brahe lost his nose in 1566 in a duel with his cousin. He fashioned himself a prosthetic nose made of brass, which he would glue on every day.

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Petrin Hill

From the highest point in town, Petrin Hill, you can look down at the city’s layout. King Charles was one of the first of Prague’s rulers obsessed with the mystical arts. So much so that the city was planned out using the advice from alchemists, astrologers and numerologists. These men provided the king with their predictions. They identified the converging ley-lines upon which the city should be built. A ley-line refers to straight alignments drawn between various historic structures and prominent landmarks.

Some people believe that such ley lines demarcate “earth energies.” These divinations decided where the greatest points of power were in the city. Upon these sites, places like Prague Castle, the old town square and the King’s residence were built. Take the funicular down from Petrin Hill station down to the Újezd station. From here, make your way to the Charles Bridge to reach the eastern part of town.

The Charles Bridge 

The original Charles Bridge, built in 1357, was a stone bridge. Its location was precisely designed by the royal astrologers to ensure that the bridge was laid on exactly July 9th at 5:31 in the morning. If you write out these numbers in the sequence, they go 1-3-5-7-9-7-5-3-1, which is a palindrome. A palindrome is a word, number, phrase which reads the same backward as forward. For numerologists and alchemists, these kinds of numbers held great power. This date was almost significant to the astrologers as the sun was in the zodiac sign of Leo. Leo, or the lion, is the heraldic symbol for Bohemia, which was thought to be advantageous to the celestial seers.

Johannes Kepler House

Johannes Kepler once lived right near the Charles Bridge at #4 Karlova street. What is now a street hounded with tourists was once the refuge of this famous stargazer. Kepler came to Prague under the tutelage of Tycho Brahe, who also was set up in Prague. Kepler had heard of the Emperor’s love of the sky and anything mystical and would serve as one of the royal horoscopes seers. Just as some people do today, the Emperor employed their advice with the utmost diligence. Kepler would go on to reveal the evolutions of the planets in their ellipse formation. Which was a departure from the previous research done on the planets, which assumed them moved in a circle around the sun. Although Kepler is most famous for this discovery, at the time, people relied on his for his astrological readings more than his scientific research.

Albrecht Wallenstein

Albrecht Wallenstein, the Bohemian general, also employed Kepler as his personal horoscope writer. Kepler wrote in his book Harmonics Mundi, “The soul of the newly born baby is marked for life by the pattern of the stars at the moment it comes into the world, unconsciously remembers it, and remains sensitive to the return of configurations of a similar kind.” So despite being a man of science, he firmly also believed in the significance of the stars.

Kepler was so talented with his astrological predictions that he is rumoured to have predicted Wallenstein’s death, down to the very month it happened. Kepler predicted that the great general would be assassinated in 1634. On February 25th, 1634, Wallenstein was attacked in his house and subsequently killed. But many people wonder if this was a self-fulfilling prophecy. Would the general have fought back if he hadn’t thought that this was his impending death? We shall ever know.

Klementinum

The Klementinum is a large complex of buildings with an enormous baroque library and observation tower beside the Charles Bridge. Initially, the building was a Jesuit college built in the 16th century. But in the 17th and 18th centuries, with the dissolution of the Jesuit Monasteries, the building was used by the court astronomers. Inside the library are some of the historic celestial globes which the court astronomers used. The Meridian Hall is still an active meteorological station. Originally it was used to monitor the planets’ position in the sky and identified 12-noon. A bell would be rung from the Klementinum to alert the public to the fact that it was now midday.

Rabbi Loew’s Tomb & his Golem

In Prague’s Jewish cemetery, you can find the headstone of the famous Rabbi Judah Loew. But since the cemetery is only accessible with a ticket, we are instead going to wander the Jewish quarter’s streets and end up at the Old-New Synagogue. Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel was a scholar of Judaism and served as rabbi of Moravia and Prague during the 16th century. He was a fierce protector of the Jewish faith and its people. His name, in fact, comes from the Hebrew word for lion, the most fearsome protector. Legend has it that his defence of Prague’s Jewish people went much deeper than just his teachings. The story goes that he worked with the alchemists of Prague to create a legendary golem. 

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Golem of Prague

In Jewish folklore, a golem is a magical creature created from clay or mud by a powerful ritual. In 1389, over 3,000 Jewish people living in Prague were murdered by Catholics in a devastating event. Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel feared for his people after these attacks and decided he needed to do something drastic to protect them. He went to the banks of the Vltava River to collect some mud. With this natural material in hand, he brought it back to the alchemy lab to perform the secret Hebrew incantations. This mystical combination of natural materials and magical practices was almost the definition of alchemy in the 16th century. Rabbi Loew implored the golem to defend the Prague ghetto from antisemitic attacks. The golem was placed inside the old synagogue’s attic, and it remained there in silence until his time of need. 

Hundreds of years later, during WWII, a nazi agent came to the synagogue with plans to destroy it. The main entrance was blocked, so he entered by the exterior stairs on the building’s facade, which led right into the attic. It was there he encountered the golem. The great golem rose from his slumber and quickly took care of the intruder. Today, there is a set of iron stairs on the exterior, the same ones which the nazi used to enter the synagogue. The last few rungs have been removed to prevent anyone from entering the golem’s resting place, in case they awaken him once more.

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Speculum Alchemiae

Deep underground, just off the main streets of Prague’s old town, in the Jewish quarter, is a secret laboratory called the ‘Speculum Alchemiae.’ This underground lab was walled up for hundreds of years, discovered only in 2002. That year, a flood forced the owners to dig down into the basement where they found the remnant of the old laboratory. Upon making this discovery the owners brought historians into the home who degreed the house to be the oldest in Prague. 

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But why were these alchemists hidden underground when Rudolf II seemed more than happy to officially employ many other alchemists? Perhaps because these were not “officially” sanctioned and unlike the more scientific leaning alchemists of his court, these men dove in the dark arts. In the buried workshop, they discovered many different pieces of ancient equipment and some potions still on the shelves.

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Hidden Tunnels

Most curious was the series of underground tunnels that connected this building to the Old Town Hall, the royal barracks, Tyn Church and Prague Castle. This meant that whoever was working down here had direct access to the king and his court. It is doubtful this was unknown to the royal guards, so clearly something was going on down here the king was involved in but wanted to keep hidden from the general public. You can still enter the Speculum Alchemiae by purchasing a ticket to the museum tour. 

The underground laboratory consists of a drying room, where plants would have been treated for use in elixirs. Then there is the instrument room where the equipment was stored for use in distillation and transmutation. And finally, the glass oven, where alchemists would have blown their own glass instruments like beakers and vials. Since this was a secret lab, they perhaps needed to produce all their own materials down here so as not to cause suspicion.

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The Elixir of Youth

One of the discoveries made down here was a large green concoction containing “the elixir of youth.” The elixir of youth, also known as the elixir of immortality and sometimes equated with the philosopher’s stone, is a potion that supposedly granted the drinker eternal life and/or eternal youth. Modern analysis of the liquid discovered that in addition to many herbs, opium was added, which would have no doubt caused the drinker to feel a myriad of “magical” sensations. Perhaps even giving them a sense of feeling more lively and youthful. Today, if you visit the museum, you can try one of their historic “elixirs”, albeit the hallucinogenic properties have been removed for obvious reasons. 

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House by the Black Sun

At #8 Celetná Street, you will find a large early gothic house with a beautiful baroque facade. The wooden doorways are surrounded in a sturdy stone arch. Above the archway is the relief, which gives the place its name, “The ‘Black Sun.” As a symbol, the Black Sun would be coopted by Prague’s nazis hundreds of years later. But, initially, when it was carved here, the sign had a very different meaning. In the early medieval period, the ‘black sun’ referred to the first stage of the alchemy trail, called the “blackening.”

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House At the Stone Lamb or Unicorn

Along Staroměstské nám street, stop at #551 where you’ll find the house At the Stone Lamb. This house is located on what was once the ‘Royal Way.’ The Royal Way was the pathway that Czech kings would walk or ride along during their coronation. The route starts at the Republic Square and passes many of Prague’s most impressive sights, ending at Prague Castle. Many prospective alchemists came to the city of Prague, in the hopes of meeting the Emperor. They would often stay in this house, previously a hotel, as its proximity to the royal way was thought to revere the Emperor.

The house which contained the hotel went by two names, House At the Stone Lamb or House At the Stone Unicorn. Both titles came from the relief carved on the building’s front located between the first and second floors. The carving indeed looks like a lamb, but the single horn on its head would denote a unicorn. No one seemed to have been able to agree on one answer, so it is known interchangeably. 

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The Sun and Moon

While the building to the left of the House At the Stone Lamb is seemingly much more visually appealing, take a closer look at the capitals on either side of the imposing stone entrance. In the tiniest of details are carved is a series of mystical symbols with alchemical interpretations. On the capitals are images of the sun and crescent moon with human faces superimposed inside them. Above the faces are sweet carvings of fruits and flowers with oak leaves intertwining around them. The crescent moon was a common alchemy symbol for the metal silver. The sun, on the other hand, was the symbol of gold and spiritual perfection.

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The Astronomical Clock

The Astronomical Clock is perhaps Prague’s most famous attraction. It garners thousands of viewers a day in the peak of the tourist season. The clock is housed on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall and has been there, in part, since 1410. Legend says that if something terrible were to befall the clock, Prague itself would fall. Although it is just a superstitious rumour, it’s been enough to keep the clock well protected and preserved after all these years.

For our purposes, the most crucial part of the Astrological clock is the dial. The dial has images of the Sun and Moon on each hand. As they move, they imitate the position of the sun and moon in the sky. This replicates an astrolabe’s mechanisms, a device used in medieval astronomy and a primitive planetarium that displays the universe’s current state.

Calendar

The outer dial of the clock is a giant calendar. It is surrounded by different medallions representing the various months of the year and their corresponding astrological signs. The clock could then be used by astronomers and astrologers to predict horoscopes and the universe’s fate. The clock’s design was so revolutionary and perhaps secretive that the engineer Master Hanuš was blinded after its construction to ensure no replica could ever be produced. 

The House of the Two Golden Bears

The House of the Two Golden Bears on Kožná Street dates back to 1403. The wonderfully detailed stone portal was designed by court architect Bonifaz Wohlmut in the 16th century. The two bears, one light smaller than the other, are said to represent the Great Bear (Ursa Major) and Little Bear (Ursa Minor) constellations. Beside each of the bears is a knight that kneels beside them, holding a branch in their hands.

The man on the left is slightly larger than the man on the left. These two figures represent old age and youth. The branch the older man is holding is beginning to dry out while the branch in the younger man’s hand was once painted with green paint to show off its new growth. You can read this as an interpretation of the cycle of life. But there is another reading of this house sign, which symbolized the alchemist’s creation of the elixir of life. Perhaps the young man isn’t ageing at all, but the old man is becoming young again after drinking the elixir of life!

Prague Meridian

Today, this house is filled with bricked up archways and walled up rooms. Where did they once lead? And what is hidden behind them? No one knows… It was a commonly known rumour that there were underground passageways all over Prague. But what dark accesses were so evil they needed to be locked away, behind brick walls? In 1930, a journalist ventured down into one of the blocked tunnels here in the House of the Black Bears. The poor journalist didn’t reappear for over a week. He had gotten lost in the labyrinth below. When he finally resurfaced, he wouldn’t speak of what he saw, but his dark hair had turned bright white from fright. The house is located right near the Prague Meridian, which was used to determine twelve noon. Any spot near these energetic astrological positions is thought to be a place where great power was practiced.

Faust House

Despite the name, the Faust House, this house once belonged to naturalist and avid alchemist Prince Vaclav of Opava. It was built especially for him in the 14th century. The name comes from the play Doctor Faustus whose life seems to reflect the stories of those who lived inside these walls. Dr. Faust was an unhappy man who sold his soul to the devil in exchange for unlimited knowledge and worldly pleasures. “Faust” and the adjective “Faustian” implies a situation in which an ambitious person surrenders moral integrity to achieve power and success but at a great cost to their soul. Prince Vaclav, influenced by Emperor Rudolf II, was obsessed with black magic. Even after his death, it seems this house was a draw for anyone involved in the mystical arts. 

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John Dee

One of the most famous people rumoured to have lived here is John Dee. Dee was the astrological adviser to Queen Elizabeth I. Before, he was the horoscope writer for Queen Mary but thrown in prisoner as she found astrology to be akin to heresy. But when Queen Elizabeth came into power, she released Dee and had him imployed in her court. Dee’s first task was to go about predicting the most powerful and auspicious day and time for the queen’s coronation. Dee was an important figure in court, and was known to have coined the phrase “the British Empire” and signed his letters with the secret code, ‘007’. A number that would go onto inspire the James Bond novels. But Dee wasn’t satisfied at court. He was obsessed with the idea of contacting angels.

Edward Kelly

He used crystal balls and spirit mirrors, hoping that these creations could allow him to peer into the unknown. Through this research, he got looped in with our friend, Edward Kelley. Kelley himself had boasted his connection with the godly planes to Dee on multiple visits to England. At the time, Edward Kelley was known as more of a rather unbecoming con-artist and coin forger, so Dee was hesitant to get in bed with him.

Despite his hesitation, curiosity got the best of him. Kelley and Dee would take part in seances where they would claim to speak to the angels. Dee would translate what Kelley would repeat after hearing it from the apparent angel. Dee wrought it all down in a book, and he claimed this language they overheard was the voice of God and the dialect of the angels.

It was the creation of this book of angelic translations that drew Emperor Rudolf’s interest. Dee practiced fasting as a means to contact the beyond, and it was perhaps in these states of vitamin deficient hallucinations that he was able to produce these texts. Rudolf wasn’t a fan of the idea of fasting, but when he heard Dee’s other means of contact, he was more intrigued. Dee also practiced sex rituals, which would put him into a state of ecstasy, during which he could see beyond the veil of reality. Now, this the emperor was keener on.

Sex Rituals

But it would be just these sex rituals that would end the relationship between Dee and Kelley. One day Kelley came to Dee, stating that he had had a conversation with an angel. She told him that the two men should not just share their experiments but also share in their wives. Dee wasn’t keen on the idea, nor his wife, but Kelley, as a charlatan, was very persuasive. After laying with Dee’s wife, she became pregnant and gave birth to a baby boy, which Dee raised as his own despite clearly being Kelley’s child. Dee left Prague soon after his son’s birth, unable to look at Kelley after what he had done. He went back to England, where Queen Elizabeth made hin warden of Christ’s College, where he served until his death.

It is widely rumoured that John Dee was the inspiration for Shakespeare’s character of Prospero in the play the Tempest. Dee and Shakespeare knew each other from the court of Elizabeth I, and their relationship is something which is legend in the field of mysticism. Dee was described as “tall and slender. He wore a gown like an artist’s gown, with hanging sleeves, and a slit…A very fair, clear sanguine complexion… a long beard as white as milk.” A perfect description of what would become the staple image for mystical wizards in tales to come.

Other Residents

After Dee, astrologer Jakub Krucinek moved into the house with his two sons. The youngest son killed the elder when he discovered the elder son had hidden a secret treasure inside the house. The house was eventually sold to alchemist Ferdinand Antonin Mladota of Solopysky. Famously Mladota would perform experiments inside the house, which would explode and leave holes in the ceiling. A student who moved into the house years later found a book hidden in the walls, which apparently has many references to summoning the devil. 

Another quirky resident of the house was Karl Jaenig, who painted the walls with funeral text and slept in a coffin. So something more than fishy is definitely going on here. People speculate the house is a portal to hell, but no one will ever know for sure.

The Black Lady of Stráž 

Ema Destinnová, or as she was better known, the Black Lady of Stráž, was a famous Czech opera singer. She made her singing debut in 1898 at the Berlin opera house. Her voice was so beautiful that she travelled worldwide to preform, going as far as the New York Metropolitan Opera house! She is such a pride to the nation that her portrait was even printed on the 2,000 kronor back in 1996. But perhaps unknown to some in these modern days is that she famously dabbled in the occult and loved spiritualism and fortune-telling! Her library featured books on alchemy, astrology, witchcraft, books on herbs, and occultism. She even had a set of tarot cards painted by the artist Robert Schlosser made just for her.

#7 Kateřinská

Destinnová bought a chateau for herself in the South of Bohemia. The main reason she was drawn to the castle was because of the spooky book collection. The old owner has amassed a collection of books on the occult. Apparently, Destinnová would host seances in her “ghost room” above the old castle dungeon. When Destinnová died, all her books were auctioned off. The details of her torrid collection were finally revealed but covered up to ensure her legacy was untarnished. She was born here at #7 Kateřinská, now a restaurant. One can only imagine how beginning your life in a city steeped in mysticism would influence your future. After all, she was born a mere few blocks away from the famous Faust house. Was it fate? Or does this city weave a spell over all those who walk its cobblestone streets? You decide.

This brings us to the end of the tour. Hopefully, you enjoyed learning all about the mysterious and mystical history of Prague’s alchemists. I know one of my favourite parts of travelling is learning about these oddities and strange stories. Let me know in the comments what your favourite locations or tale was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Discover the Secrets of Magic & Alchemy in Prague, Free Walking Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Klementinum is a large building complex that stretches across an entire city block. Since the 15th century, astronomers, scientists, philosophers and musicians have poured through its door to study the precious books inside. These great men of science and art came together here. Each influenced the other and developed some of the modern era’s most incredible inventions. The Klementinum is home to several important institutions, including the National Library of the Czech Republic. But it is also an architectural and cultural treasure. With its stunning Baroque facade, beautiful courtyards, and intricate decoration, the Klementinum is a true feast for the eyes. So, join us as we discover the hidden gems and hidden stories of this beautiful complex.

Table Of Contents

1. Access & Admission
2. History
3. Great Mirror Chapel
4. 2nd Floor
5. The Great Library
6. The Bookshelves
7. Globes
8. The Meridian Hall
9. Viewpoint

Access & Admission

The only way to get into the libraries is by a guided tour (unless you’re a Czech scholar). These run about every hour and are worth every penny! For tour times and hours, visit their website.

To find the entrance to the tour, you walk through a small set of wooden doors near the church. Inside you will see a ticket booth with a cramped employee sitting behind the glass. After purchasing your ticket, you wait for your tour guide. Once they arrive, you’ll be whisked off throughout this gorgeous building.

Tickets cost: 300 Kc for Adults ($13 USD), 200 Kc ($9 USD) for Students and Seniors and children are free.

History

The Klementinum dates all the way back to the 11th century. It was formerly a tiny chapel dedicated to Saint Clement run by Dominican monks. The Hapsburg Emperor Ferdinand I wanted to help increase his power within the Roman Catholic Church and in Bohemia (now Prague). To do this, he invited the Jesuits into his city.

Wanting to make them feel more at home and give them some sense of importance, the Emperor gifted them the building now known as the Klementinum. It had a prime location, right across from the Charles Bridge, and was an excellent gift for the order.

In 1556, the library’s development began. By 1653 they had managed to build one of the most significant collections of books and the literary material in Europe. When the entire library was finished, it was the most massive building in Prague, after Prague Castle. Eventually, the Jesuits fell out with the Pope. So in 1773, the library was given over to Prague’s people and became a part of Charles University.

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Great Mirror Chapel

The first room that the guide will take you into is the Great Mirror Chapel. The architecture of the Klementinum varies from room to room, as different parts of the building were built during different periods. This room, however, is an excellent example of Baroque architecture. The Mirror Chapel was built in 1724 and features ornate frescoes, mirrors, the ceiling, and intricate gilded stucco. The rust-coloured walls and peach-painted ceiling are a unique touch. They make the chamber glow and make the visitor feel warm and cozy.

The faux marble columns along the walls each contain a beautifully framed work of art. These works of art were primarily created by Jan Hiebl, a Czech artist of little note. But Hiebl made a significant impression on the people who visit this chapel. One of the most important things to look at here is the two organs. The first was played by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart on his visits to the Klementinum.

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This chapel can also be visited if you buy tickets to one of their “Classical Concerts.” These concerts are a fantastic option for visiting the Klementinum outside a guided tour. You will be treated to music from the 18th century played on the historic organ during the show. Usually performed by gifted local musicians. The very same organ played by Mozart himself now hosts new talented musicians hoping to become the following great composer!

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2nd Floor

After soaking in all the beauty inside the chapel, your guide leads up the first set of narrow stairs to the 2nd floor. This is where the historic library is housed. On the way to the library, you pass by various glass cabinets of curiosity. These different house instruments are used by astronomers to explore the skies, track weather and map constellations.

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The corridor is covered in ornate stucco, and the ceiling contains frescoes. Each scene is drawn from prominent literary writings, like echoes of the past, leading you down toward your destination.

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Although you can’t walk inside the library and pick up any books, there are various special volumes under the glass. These examples give you a glimpse of the books you’d find on the shelves within. Each one is masterfully handpainted with perfect calligraphy and illustration on every page. Monks would spend a lifetime creating a few copies of the same book. They would disperse the copies to only a few prestigious libraries worldwide.

The Great Library

As the guide leads you to the only open set of doors, you will be immediately taken aback by the tremendous amount of things to look at inside the Great Library. The shelves housing over 20,000 books from the early 17th century onwards are a stunning display. There is a sea of baroque finishings washing over the walls.

The ceiling features a large fresco, an original part of 18th-century design. The paintings on the ceiling depict the Temple of Wisdom, a city from Greek Mythology, which was thought to have housed thousands of theological volumes dating back to 1600. Jan Hiebl, the same artist who painted the frescos in the Mirror Chapel, also did these frescos. He uses light and shadow to create a domed effect even on the flat ceiling. Hiebl spent tireless hours giving the illusion of natural sunlight pouring into space despite natural light being restricted to protect the books from damage.

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The Bookshelves

The bookshelves are carved from stunning dark wood, which shines even in the dim light. Some columns are carved into spirals, topped off with gold capitals. Above the tops of each bookshelf are golden frames with the names of prominent Jesuits inscribed on them. These Jesuits were the people who helped build this impressive library.

The books in the collection consist mainly of theological volumes in various foreign languages. It also contains a Mozartiana, a book about the life of Tycho Brahe and Comenius. You’d also find historical examples of famous Czech literature. Some of the collections’ books are so rare and unique that they have been given to Google to be digitally preserved online for everyone to see.

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Globes

In the centre of the room are various globes of different sizes, displaying historical diagrams and maps of the world. You can see how opinions have changed throughout the years on the map of the world. The shapes of continents would grow or shrink based on the newest technology or information. There are also several sets of celestial globes to be found here. Celestial spheres show the position of the stars in the sky.

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The Meridian Hall

Although you might not want to leave, eventually, the tour guide must move on. You are taken to the next floor, which contains Meridian Hall. The Meridian Hall was an invention designed to determine and mark twelve noon. When the scientists inside would see that noon had come (based on their instruments), they would ring the bells from the top of the bell tower. This would indicate to the rest of the town that it was midday. Alongside the Meridian Hall is several weather recording devices that note the temperature as early as 1775. These are even still used today to continue to record the weather.

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Viewpoint

You can mount the final, very narrow, rickety set of stairs to walk out onto the bell tower. You must climb up 172 steps to get to the top of the building. But you’ll be rewarded with a stunning 360° view of Prague’s red-topped roofs.

Being up here helps you understand where everything is in Prague. You can see all the important landmarks, and bronze diagrams help identify all the famous buildings you’re looking down at. This was so helpful since we’d see something far off in the distance and want to make a note of tracking it down once back on land.

Seeing as the tour group is so small, you have this view all to yourself once the group spreads out. It was so romantic and truly an oasis of serenity in a city which can be overwhelming and full of tourists.

A massive bronze sculpture of Atlas holds up the world on the very top of the bell tower. On our way out, we looked at the top of the tower from where we were once standing. The Klementinum and the Strahov Monastery are my two favourite landmarks in Prague. You MUST visit them if you’re ever in the city, especially if you’re a library lover like me!

The post A Guide to the Prague Klementinum first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.