I first discovered these gable stones while walking along the Bloemgracht in the Jordaan Neighbourhood. When I saw the first one, it piqued my interest to look for more, and soon I started to see that almost every other house I passed had these beautiful stone plaques above their doors. Each gable stone portrays a different character, symbol or scene. Delving into the histories and meanings behind the buildings they are housed within. I immediately wanted to know the importance of each one, seeing them as a clue into the family that once lived here. 

About the Tour

After my research, I wanted to create this in-depth post to give you some insight into these incredible treasures of Amsterdam’s architectural past. You can find these gable stones all over the city. And spotting them can be somewhat of an eye-spy adventure. I have marked some of my favourite spots and streets where you can discover the best collection of Amsterdam’s historical gable stones. Some come with me now on our Alternative Amsterdam Walking Tour, the Hidden Secret of Amsterdam’s Gable Stones.

Exploring the Gables Stones of Jordaan Neighbourhood

1. History of Gable Stones
2. Haarlemmerplein & Haarlemmerdijk
3. Binnen Vissersstraat & Brouwersgracht
4. Brouwersgracht
5. Palmgracht
6. Lindengracht
7. Prinsengracht
8. Egelantiersstraat 
9. Bloemgracht

History of Gable Stones

Long before house numbers were the primary method of finding your way around the city, gable stones (or gevelstenen in Dutch) denoted a homeowner’s name or business’s purpose. Many people were illiterate then, so these illustrative signs also served a very functional purpose. In the 16th century, if you were looking for a cobbler, you’d look for the gable stone with a shoe. If you were looking for a tavern, you’d search for a barrel. But there are also much more profound, symbolic meanings to these gable stones. Some contain metaphors, puns and, of course, religious imagery. Each one relates in some way to the history of the homeowners. It’s a fascinating way of getting to know more about the city’s history. 

Amsterdam’s Gable Stones

2,500 of these stones can still be found in the Netherlands. And 850 of these stones can be found in Amsterdam alone. In the 19th century, Amsterdam officially employed a numbering system for their streets and houses, and the gable stone fell out of fashion. But in recent years, they have come back into fashion, and new gable stones have been created to bring back modern-day heraldry.

Haarlemmerplein & Haarlemmerdijk

This tour will be primarily located in the Haarlemmerstraat and Jordaan neighbourhoods. We start our tour along Haarlemmerplein and Haarlemmerdijk. The Haarlemmerplein was originally where the city’s horses and wagons would be parked at the city gates. Today, Haarlemmerdijk is one of the most charming streets in the city. Blending modern shops and historic homes together in one trendy area.

#4 Haarlemmerplein

The gable stone found at #4 Haarlemmerplein is located high above the third-floor windows. But even from afar, the golden gilding glints in the sunlight. This stone features a great tortoise and is one of the more modern plaques. The owner, Betty Ramaekers and Klaas Helder had this gevelstenen designed especially for them. Since tortoises always carry their house with them, they are symbolic of the importance of the home. The owners bought the property in 1985, and the date of the purchase is etched onto the stone.

#109 Haarlemmerdijk

The stone tablet at #109 Haarlemmerdijk is an excellent example of a gable stone’s relation to the resident’s heritage. The house was built for Lady Sluis in 1730. Lady Sluis was originally from Zwartsluis (a Dutch province of Overijssel), and although she had been married off and moved to Amsterdam, she still had a great love for her hometown. So she had the cityscape of Zwartsluis etched onto her gable stone. The 17th-century Reformed Church of Zwartsluis is the central feature of the landscape. But other memorable images of her home are also presented to the public. Like boats coming to shore or birds flying over the horizon. Every time she would return home, she would be met with this image, a beautiful memory of her beloved town.

#13 Binnen Dommersstraat

From here, let’s head down Binnen Dommersstraat towards the house at #13. The shop on the corner is home to one of the most incredibly detailed stone gables in the city. But it is also a delightful bakery that has served this community for over 300 years! As such, it seems appropriate that the image they chose for their relief was from the Gospel of John, when Jesus produced the miracle of multiplying loaves for the hungry masses.

The bakery is now a trendy coffee shop called Toki, which still serves up tasty baked goods. The perfect place to take a break with a warm cup of coffee and a sweet treat.

#119 Vinkenstraat

Right across the street from Toki, at #116 Vinkenstraat, is a stone gable that dates back to 1768. A large white pelican spreads its wings against a pale blue background, looking down at its young babies sitting in a nest below. At first glance, the babies appear to be drinking drops of blood dripping down from the breast of their mother. And in 1768, that is exactly what people thought baby pelicans did eat. Many thought a mother would pierce her own breast to feed her young because that’s what it looked like to the naked eye. But in reality, the pelican is actually reaching into their bill, where they keep fresh fish, and this is actually what the babies eat. 

Myth of the Pelican

But ancient Europeans didn’t take biology in school. So they could only make assumptions from what they saw. From this legend, the pelican because a symbol of self-sacrifice and charity. Some apparently even believed that the pelican could bring its deceased young back to life by giving them its blood leading many to draw a comparison between the pelican and Jesus, who gave his blood to his followers. So anytime you see a pelican, this often will be associated with a religious place or someone who was devoted to god.

#98 Haarlemmerdijk

Continue east along Vinkenstraat and back to Haarlemmerdijk until you reach #98. I adore this little scene above the doorway to #98 Haarlemmerdijk. This tablet shows a shepherd casually lounging on the hillside, looking after his flock of sheep. His trustee dog, with his back, turned to the viewer, is intently watching the sheep. The etching was carved by famed Dutch painter Nicolaas Berchem. Berchem was a popular painter during the Dutch Golden era and was best known for these types of pastoral landscapes.

Originally the house marked the entrance to #101, but when that house was set to be demolished and turned into a post office, the tablet was removed. It was kept safe, and when the time came to reinstall, it was moved to #98.

#47 Haarlemmerdijk

Above the most darling Fleurmonde flower shop is a beautifully painted nautical frieze. It features what looks like a big blue fish. But upon closer inspection, it is actually a large porpoise. The porpoise is diving down into choppy waters. Perhaps swimming during a great storm. During the middle ages, porpoises were known to be spotted swimming in the canals in Amsterdam. And while they are rarely seen today, there have been a few spottings as recent as 2020, when the boat traffic in the canals died down due to Covid-19. Two dolphins are seen carved on either end, framing the entire scene. Another nod to the nautical nature of the city.

#33 Haarlemmerdijk

At #33, you can see an old stone relief dating back to 1740! It depicts Jupiter, also known as the Greek God Zeus. You know it’s him not only by the icons in the scene but also by the huge “Jupiter” lettering on the bottom of the carving. Jupiter is nude but wrapped in a large swathe of fabric. He holds a bundle of lightning bolts in his hand, a stern look on his face. The position of his arm makes it look like he is ready for battle. Jupiter’s trustee eagle sits peacefully at his feet. Jupiter is associated with healing, good fortune, and miracles, so we might imagine that perhaps a healer or apothecary once stood here.

#107 Haarlemmerstraat

Crossing over the large bridge, we head into the eastern part Haarlemmerstraat. As someone who loves astrology, the house at #107 really spoke to me. You’ll see cheerful dancing figures in the upper right corner above the doorway. These little cherubs are holding two black-painted symbols in their hands. These represent the zodiac signs for Cancer and Taurus. But the two children, with identical faces, also represent the zodiac sign of Gemini. It’s safe to assume that these symbols relate to the birthdates of the children or the couple who lived in this house.

#20 Buiten Brouwersstraat

Let’s take a quick detour north along Buiten Brouwersstraat to #20. The incredibly detailed stone relief depicted here features a huge, three-mast ship. The name “TS Chip China” is emblazoned on the bottom of the tablet. Since we know the entire name of the ship, we know a fair bit about it. It was built in 1676 for the Dutch East India Company. Despite the name, the boat mainly travelled to what is now modern-day Jakarta in Indonesia. Perhaps one of the ships’ captains once resided in this grand house.

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#2 Binnen Brouwersstraat

Take a short detour south along Binnen Brouwersstraat to #2. This adorable stone tablet features this enormous beaver, chewing on a tree almost to the point of falling in half. Yet, we are catching him at the moment just before he achieves his end goal. The wording under the tablet says “Castor Tenax 1993,” which translates to “the persistent beaver.”

But the date on the tablet is also of great importance. The entire concept for the gable’s design refers to the tumultuous process of renovations the poor owner undertook when he bought the property in 1990. His aim was to move right in. But he was met with problem after problem. First, a large fire. And then many long and arduous delays in the repairs required and remodelling. The building wasn’t deemed livable until 1993. Three long years after his initial purchase! But he never gave up, just like our persistent little beaver who kept working hard. To eventually achieve its goal.

#66 Haarlemmerstraat

Head back to the Haarlemmerstraat and walk until you reach the impossibly narrow building located at #66. The stone gable above the doorway is as wide as the door. It features a shield with the image of a red lion rearing up on its hind legs. Above the lion is a red crown sitting atop the shield. But this is not a king’s crown, but a duke’s. If you look closely, you can see the fur edging around the brim of the crown made from the hair of a stoat. The words under the crest state that this is the coat of arms of the province of Limburg.

But curiously, we know this tablet to date back to the 17th century when the coat of arms of Limburg was only established in 1886. Before there was Limburg, there were the Lords of Gulik, whose lands would go on to be the south of Limburg, and this was their crest. Today, if you look at the official, you can still see the red lion incorporated into the design of the larger four-cornered shield, representing each part of the province.

#16 Droogbak

Continue north until you reach the island’s edge. From here, walk east along Haarlemmer Houttuinen, which turns into Droogbak street. Here we will stop at #16. The gorgeous sculpted carving on the curved stone plinth is one of the most intricate designs in the city. It was made in 1742 for compass maker Pieter de Jong. Look closely, and the carving features a large compass on a decorative wooden plinth. Amsterdam was a hub for shipbuilders and skippers. A good repair shop close to the harbour was an important feature of the city.

On either side of the compass are two hourglasses. Hourglasses were invented around the 12th century. They were a key feature of a sailing ship as they were used onboard to help time the ship’s watches. A ribbon above the entire piece has the name of the compass maker emblazoned upon it.

#59 Haarlemmerstraat

Head back south to Haarlemmerstraat and make a stop at #59. Above the second-floor window is a gorgeous shield with an array of flowers and foliage exploding from behind it. In the centre of the shield is a large crowned stork. He stands with his one leg raised and a large eel caught in his beak. The stork crest was installed around the 16th century to symbolize good luck. Often good luck symbols were popular icons to put on the houses of sailors to ensure they returned home unharmed.

Binnen Vissersstraat & Brouwersgracht

The name “Binnen Vissersstraat” is Dutch for Fishing street. It was named as such because this roadway ends at the mouth of the canal. From this street, fishermen would bring in their day catch and take it to the marketplace.

#4 Binnen Vissersstraat

Turn south down Binnen Vissersstraat, where at #4 you’ll find a funny stone plaque. The tablet depicts the very house you are standing in front of. Beside the house is a large green tree. Look closely, and you’ll see gold coins growing from the tree and a man collecting the coins in a wheelbarrow below. The tablet was designed in the 1980s during the restoration of the house. The restoration was a costly one. To make light of the situation, the owner had this stone gable designed to reference the fact he wished “money grew on trees.”

#9 Binnen Vissersstraat

At #9, we see an even more modern design, made in 1997 for Barbara Jonckheer when she retired. Jonckheer was an essential figure in the Amsterdam Bureau of Conservation. Her efforts to restore and conserve art throughout the city was her life’s work. And although you might not know her name, so many historical buildings that you will admire along the way no doubt have been touched by her in some way. The image of a stately young spire, bowing with his feathered cap, is a way of showing reverence for the great woman.

Brouwersgracht

Turn down Brouwersgracht and head back west. Gracht is the Dutch word for Canal, and Brouwers means brewery. The name came from the 16th century when this area of town was home to many beer, gin and liqueur breweries. Many houses along this street still have their large wooden shutters, which identified the homes as warehouses back in the day. The Brouwersgracht was voted the most beautiful street in Amsterdam, so take in the sights as we walk along.

#52 Brouwersgracht

At #52 Brouwersgracht, we find the old home of furniture designer Andries Tenck. Tenck bought the house in 1759, as indicated on the stone gable. The tablet depicts how this ingenious chair-maker could turn a simple wooden piece of furniture into an extravagant fantasy. Below the Louis XV-style chair on the right are the words “nooyt volmaakt” which means “never perfect.” A classic moniker of artists who are never happy with their work. Such is the plight of the creative.

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#28 Binnen Wieringerstraat

Make a quick detour up Binnen Wieringerstraat to see the house at #28. De Visser is the inscription underneath the gable, which translate to, “the Fisherman.” And right there on the front, we can see an 18th-century fisherman dressed in traditional gare. He is seen holding a large fishing spear in one hand and his catch of the day in the other. In the foreground stands two stacks of barrels on either side and a smoking pot on the right. But how could a lowly fisherman buy a house such as this? Well, the answer lies in the contents of the barrels. The answer? Whale blubber.

Whale Oil

Whaling in the Netherlands began in the 17th century when the Dutch discovered the artic fishing grounds. At the industry’s peak, about 25% of ships in the Dutch fleet were whaling vessels. Whale oil was hugely profitable in the 17th and 18th centuries, as they could derive whale oil from the fat in the mammal’s body. Before electricity, oil lamps were the only way people could light their homes, street lamps and stoves. So oil was like gold dust. While you could get oil from livestock, it stank and produced thick smoke, while whale oil, on the other hand, burned bright and clear! Whale oil is made by boiling strips of blubber harvested from whales. And this is exactly what is depicted in the stone gable on the front of the house. What a story!

#76 Brouwersgracht

Back along Brouwersgracht, make your way to #76. You’ll need to look down to see the stone tablet above the basement door. Unlike the other on this tour, which is usually above the front door, this one is a little more hidden away.

The scene depicts the various stages of making wine. On the left side of the frame, the grapes are plucked from the vines, then in the centre, we can see someone stomping the grapes with their feet inside a large barrel. The last vignette depicts the wine poured from the barrel into a glass. Ready to be enjoyed by the public! As we are back again on Brewery street, this is a good indication that this building would have once been a wine distillery. I love the design of this carving. It feels very stylized and different from everything else we’ve seen.

#114 Brouwersgracht

The gevelstenen at #114 Brouwersgracht is unique because it is three-dimensional. It literally jumps out at us from the facade of the old brick building. The brightly painted blue and red emperor’s crown is flanked by the warehouse’s black wooden shutters. 

In the 15th century, even though Amsterdam was just a fishing village, the emperor awarded them the right to use the emperor’s crown. Having the right to use the emperor’s crown was a big deal, as it acted as a means of showing you were protected by the emperor and his army. Amsterdam was given the right to use the emperor’s crown thanks to the large amounts of money it loaned Emperor Maximillian I during the Hook and Cod wars in the 15th century. They might have just been a fishing village, but fishing brought in money, and the merchants who traded in fish brought vast amounts of gold. 

#133 Brouwersgracht

Cross over the Papiermolensluis to reach the opposite side of the canal. From here, you can make your way to #133 Brouwersgracht. Of all the animals you might imagine seeing depicted in Amsterdam, a hippo would perhaps be the last of your guesses, and yet here it is! In fact, the inscription beneath the stone carving states that this is “the hippo in the canal.“

Jan Joost Peskens was the house’s first occupant and was obsessed with hippos. In his early childhood, he had read all about them in a book by biologist Hillenius. To Peskens, they seemed like mythological creatures and yet somewhere out there, they were real! His love for the hippo never wained, and for this birthday, after purchasing the house, his wife had this stone gable made special for him. It was unveiled on the big day, and even though he might never see a real hippo himself, he would be greeted by this friendly face every day upon his return home.

#163 Brouwersgracht

On the corner of the house at #163 Brouwersgracht, you can find the sign from an old grainery that once stood here. The grainery was built in 1729, and although the original building has been demolished, the house sign has been preserved. In the carving, you can see the process by which people would come to buy their corn and grain. They would fill up this wooden barrel with grains and then use the attached metal bow to smooth and level the grain on top. Ensuring each measure of grain was properly levelled, and each barrel load contained the same amount. Pretty ingenious invention for the 16th century.

Palmgracht

#3 Palmgracht

Make your way west along Palmgracht. The Palmgracht, also known as the Palm Canal, was once waterfilled before the 1850s. During those years, many of the Jordaan neighbourhood canals were filled in due to the poor water quality and the need to create more livable space for the increasing population. The name “palm canal” is odd as palm trees could never grow here in Amsterdam. But Dutch sailors and merchants who worked in the Indonesian Dutch colonies had come to adore the beauty of these fantastic plants. And although they couldn’t bring them home with them, their love of the tropical plant lived on.

This is exemplified at #3 Palmgracht, where a palm tree is represented in the stone gable. The palm tree was not just a beauty to look at but also a plant that could thrive against all odds. Not wind, nor drought or even the greatest of storms could destroy the mighty palm. So many people use the palm tree as a symbol to represent triumph over adversity.

#60 Palmgracht

Towards the street’s western end, you’ll find stone gables aplenty. At #60, we can find the two golden nightingales. The nightingale is frequently associated with creativity and related to nature’s purity. The tablet was added around the 20th century when the house was owned by architect E. Van Houten. Undoubtedly, creativity and mother nature’s inspirations are important to architects and perhaps why Van Houten selected the nightingales as his house emblem. 

#68 Palmgracht

At #68 Palmgracht, we find the brilliant image of the Hindu creature Rakshasa. Rakshasa is a mythological demon or goblin. Rakshasas have the power to change their shape at will and appear as animals, monsters, or in the case of female Rakshasa, as beautiful women. Many immigrants to Amsterdam came from Dutch Indonesia. And they brought with them their vibrant culture and history. This Rakshasa was designed to replicate the one embedded in the front of the medieval palace of Singosari, twelve kilometres north of the Indonesian city Malang.

Be sure to get up close and personal with the carving to make out all the tiny details in the sculpture. You can see the little faces hiding within the Rakshasa’s headdress. She sits with one hand projecting outwards towards the street. The Rakshasa bares her fangs and holds a large club in her other hand. She looks quiet and menacing. These symbols were often placed outside the home in order to protect it from evil.

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#63 Palmgracht

Cross the street and head over to #63 Palmgracht. This house bears one of the oldest stone tablets in the city. De Blom Kool, or the “Flowering Cabbage” tablet, was installed here in 1679. Willem Harmensz Kool owned the house and worked in the Waag as a weight-bearer. In the 17th century, numbers #61, #63 and #65 all contained the same cauliflower symbols, but today this is the only one that remains. The cabbage was his house emblem, as “Kool” means cabbage.

The Waag was the “weigh house” and was originally a city gate and part of the walls of Amsterdam. A weigh house did literally what it sounds like, weighing out various goods brought into the city, which required taxation. And Kool, as a weight-bearer, was charged with ensuring all taxes were paid in full. 

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#73 Palmgracht

At #73, you’ll find the House of the Radishes. Another vegetable-themed house! But unlike the previous house with a history dating back hundreds of years, this home’s gable was designed in 1973. The owner loved the song ‘The Radish waltz,’ written and sung by Louis Davids. And when the house was renovated in 1973, they added this vibrant new gable onto the brick facade.

Lindengracht

Take a walk south along Lijnbaansgracht, beside the scenic canal. Continue along until you reach Lindengracht.

#211 Lindengracht

At #211 Lindengracht is where the 17th-century residents of Amsterdam would have come to purchase their tobacco. The business was marked by this stone plaque featuring an enslaved man holding a large tobacco leaf in his hand. On the ground are three rolls of tobacco, and in the background, we can find two woven baskets used to harvest the tobacco leaves. During the 17th century, they called this stone gable the “Tobacco Moor.” But the term Moor is now considered a derogatory word applied to dark-skinned Muslims of North Africa. These men were enslaved by the Dutch Europeans and used to farm the tobacco fields. And while the Netherlands banned the slave trade in 1814, memories of their cruelty remain etched on the stones of the street even to this day.

#160 Lindengracht

Above the door to the old cafe on the corner of Lindengracht and Tweede Goudsbloemdwarsstraat is the most splendid little vignette carved above the portal. Unlike the other tablets made of stone, this piece is made of wood. And miraculously, has been preserved here since the 18th century. It marked the entrance to an old wine cellar, as seen in the carving by stacks of barrels lining the left side of the frame. The most curious and wide-eyed cat looks out towards us on the right side, hiding among the vine of plump grape trees. Cats are often used as symbols of femininity. Many people interpret this as a sign that in here this establishment the woman was the one truly in charge!

#73 Lindengracht

Recently the stone tablet on #73 Lindengracht has been restored to its former glory. This house was a former blacksmith shop in the 19th century. Marking the spot is the stone tablet showing a suspended horseshoe. The horseshoe is the most iconic symbol of the blacksmith. The word for blacksmith is written in Dutch below the horseshoe. The large black arched doorways on either side of the lower level are also clear signs of an old horse barn once being here. Large doors were required to provide access to the horse and carriages, which often would come here to be repaired, just like taking your car into the auto shop!

#55 Lindengracht

Above the doorway to #55 is a stone gable featuring a great green tree. But instead of bearing fruit like apples or pears, hanging in its branches are silver painted fish swimming amongst the leaves. Just below the swimming fish is a nest, but within it, a bundle of eels instead of birds. Almost unsurprisingly, the plaque was designed in the acid-riddled 1970s. Even the text below the icons is subverted, written backwards, only to be read with a mirror. 

Palingoproer

But the scene isn’t derived from a drug-induced dream. Instead, it is a reference to a famous historical event, the Palingoproer, which occurred here along these canals in 1886. The Palingoproer or ‘the Eel riot‘ started when the police attempted to stop the Jordaan neighbourhood’s citizens from playing their favourite eel-pulling game. Eel pulling was an old Amsterdam pastime where a rope was stretched over the canal, and a live eel was hung from it. Players had to sail their boats underneath the rope to try and grab the slippery eel without falling into the water.

The game was deemed as “cruel public entertainment” by the government of the time, and the police went to put a stop to it. None of the authorities could have imagined just how popular this event was, and just for fiercely the people of Amsterdam would fight to preserve their right to go eel-pulling. When the police started to force spectators to disperse, a riot broke out. In the fighting, 26 people were killed by police. The fish and eels in the gable stone here are meant to commemorate the uprising. And perhaps remind the authorities of just how important culture is to the Dutch people, no matter how silly or frivolous.

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#53 Lindengracht

Above the windows at #53 Lindengracht is the gable of Barend Wargaren. Wargaren lived here in 1742. The name “Warren” means “war of yarn,” and the image we see depicted in the stone plaque is the allegory based on the name. On the left is a monkey sitting at a spinning wheel with the help of a small dog who aids him on the twisting wheel. On the right sits another monkey on a stool. He also tries to twist a yarn spool, but he uses a wooden reel.

Although the monkey on the right looks like he has spun more wool onto his spool, his method creates a weaker product. You twist two or more single threads together by using the twisting wheel and spinning wheel together, thus creating a stronger yarn. This takes more time, but diligence will always win the war over foolish haste. That is the moral of the story.

#5 Lindengracht

At #5 Lindengracht we find a stone tablet featuring the most iconic symbol of the Netherlands; the windmill. On either side of the mill are two bundles of yellow stacks of wood awaiting their turn to be sawed inside. Before the 19th century, Amsterdam, and this canal in particular, was home to dozens of small wind-powered sawmills. Back then, this area of town wasn’t a hub of residential living. This area once lay behind the city walls and was considered the rural outskirts. Therefore, it was common to have windmills along the ramparts as it was a halfway point between farmer’s fields and the city’s marketplaces where milled wood could be sold.

Prinsengracht

The Prinsengracht is a regal canal named after the Prince of Orange. It is the fourth of the four main canals belonging to the famous canal belt. And as such many of the houses along this canal are some of the most beautiful.

#36 Prinsengracht

The soaring facade at #36 Prinsengracht is a stunning example of the best elements of Amsterdam’s iconic architecture. One of these characteristics is the beautiful neck-gable roof ornaments in many Dutch canal houses. Also displayed on the facade of the house are “oeils-de-boeuf” windows. These windows, also called “ox eye” windows are small round windows that flank either side of the attic that resemble the eyes of an animal looking down on the city below. The fantastical house dates back to 1650, as marked on the stone carving towards the top of the house. 

Above the 3rd floor is where we can find our stone tablet, which depicts a rich blue sack filled with white feathers. In the 17th century, the house went by the name ‘als daer De Veersack in de gevel staet,’ which means, “there where the feather sack is in the façade.” The building was initially used as a feather bed warehouse during the 17th and 18th centuries. After closing down, it was later used as a sugar and chocolate factory.

#60 Prinsengracht

On the front of the house at #60 is a simple oblong stone depicting an upside-down bowler hat. It even has the words “BOLHOED,” meaning bowler hat, written on the sign. The building was previously home to a vegetarian restaurant named “De Bolhoed,” but it has since closed down. Hopefully, a new restaurant will move in and keep the bowler head name going!

#46 Tuinstraat

Turn west along Tuinstraat until you reach #46. At this house was where you could once have come to buy your soap. On the 17th-century gable stone, you can read the inscription that says, “IN DE ASWERCKER,” which means “In the ashes-worker. Carved into the stone gable is the image of a worker, piling up a series of large copper barrels. But what do ashes and barrels have to do with soap? Well, I’m glad you asked!

Inside these barrels, the soapmaker would have stored Potash. Potash is made from plant or wood ashes that have been soaked in a “pot” of water. Potash is one of the most ancient ways of making soap, a technique that dates back to the Bronze age. Ashes were transformed into lye, which is still to this day a key ingredient in soap-making. In the sixteenth century, the Dutch were one of the largest soap suppliers and consumers. And the warehouses all along this stretch of roadway would have been used to produce these sought-after products.

Egelantiersstraat 

Walk one street south to find yourself walking along Egelantiersstraat. ‘Egelantiers‘ was a chamber of rhetoric, also known as a dramatic society, that rose up in this area of Amsterdam in 1517. The symbol for the organization was the Eglantine Rose or Sweet Briar Rose in the shape of a cross. It was a symbol of love, and their slogan was “In Love, Flourishing.” It’s no surprise to find an actor enamoured with romance, but the actual reference to the rose was from a beloved poem by Beatrijs. In this poem, two young lovers meet secretly by the wild roses.

These dramatic societies were closely connected with political leaders. Even back then, the government saw how theatre could be an instrument of propaganda and worked with the groups as an early form of public relations for the city. Many of the stone tablets on these streets are very dramatic, inspired by the theatrical movements in this part of the city.

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#52 Egelantiersstraat

As we’ve mentioned before, not everyone could read back in the middle ages; that’s why we have these stone tablets. To give visual examples of the professions found within. But in addition to not being able to read, many poorer citizens did not know how to write either. So what did these people do when they needed to write a letter or sign a legal document? In this situation, you would find a writing master!

The stone gable at house #52 Egelantiersstraat is where the old writing master once operated. You can see a goose feather quill in his hand as the pen master sets out to write on the parchment paper below. This tablet dates back to 1618 and was made for Hendrick Theunisz. In addition to writing for people, Theunisz would offer writing lessons out of this shop. Teaching the public to write so they wouldn’t always have to employ his services.

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#24 Egelantiersstraat

The narrow entrance at #24 Egelantiersstraat features one of the most elaborate and beautiful stone gables in town. The old stone displays the words “ANSLO’S HOFJE” below the shield, which crowns the insignia. Cornelis Claesz Anslo was a wealthy cloth merchant and Mennonite pastor who lived here on Egelantiersstraat. Anslo was actually good friends with Rembrandt, and after Anslo’s wife’s death, Rembrandt painted a picture of the two after her untimely death.

But Anslo wasn’t one to hoard his wealth and opened up an almshouse here in Amsterdam. There, he offered free housing to the elderly as early as 1626. The stone tablet’s shield is surrounded by acanthus leaves. The symbol in the centre is the emblem of the house of Anslo and features a circle with three arrows piercing it, topped with a golden crown.

#8 Egelantiersgracht

The beautiful brick house at #8 Egelantiersgracht features a series of stone gables set into the friezes above the first floor. The two tablets in the center are inscribed with the date the house was built in 1649. On either corner of the building are two different carvings. The right corner features a brewer stirring a large cauldron. On the left is the image of Saint Willibrordus. Saint Willibrordus famously was able to turn a barrel of beer into a barrel of wine.

In the 17th century, when you combined these two symbols, people knew this was a sign that you’d find a tavern inside! During the 17th century, beer was drunk with every meal, not water like we drink today. Back then, water wasn’t potable, and beer was considered the safest to drink as it had been processed. Even children drank beer with every meal! But thankfully, beer in the middle ages only contained an alcohol content of 2%. 

#50 Egelantiersgracht

Above the window at #50 Egelantiersgracht is a beautiful red rose brushed with gold leaf. Around the rose petals is the inscription ‘In Love Bloeyende,‘ which means “In Love, Flourishing.” Which, as we learned before, is the motto of the Eglantiers.

#72 Egelantiersgracht

A few doors down at #72, on the corner of Egelantiersgracht and Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat, is the large cartouche of the brilliant golden sun. The brick cafe was originally a coach house in the 17th century designed by famous architect Philip Vingboons. The three houses along the street were named the sun, the moon and the stars. And each one originally had a stone tablet depicting its namesake. During renovations in the 1970s, the cartouche on #72 was removed from its original location nearer the roof and moved to the lower level, above the doorway, so more people could appreciate this ancient stone gable.

#15 Egelantiersgracht

Crossing the canal over the Hilletjesbrug, make your way to #15 Egelantiersgracht. Here, you’ll find an 18th-century stone tablet featuring a carpenter hard at work. In his hand, he works with his chisel, and in the background, you can see various other tools of the trade. The square frame in the upper right-hand corner of the carving was a design every carpenter needed to create to be accepted into the carpenters guild. It was seen as proof of their competency. So when you see this symbol on a carpenter’s house, you know they are the real deal!

Bloemgracht

Walking along the Prinsengracht over to the Bloemgracht. The Bloemgracht is named after the ‘Bolwerk de Bloem‘ windmill, which once stood here in 1614. The iconic windmill remained here until 1878, when it was moved to Haarlemmerweg. In the 17th century, the Bloemgracht was one of the most popular areas for artists and craftsmen to live and work. The road was full of dyers who used the nearby canal to rinse their fabrics. Willem Blaeu started his cartography workshop here in 1635. A large print shop was built in 1672, and later in the 19th century, a famous graphic trading house was opened.

But most famously, the painter Rembrandt had a studio on the Bloemgracht in the 1660s. In the 18th and 19th centuries, the canal became a hotspot for sugar factories. But these disappeared after WWII when the area transformed into a residential neighbourhood. And today it remains one of the most picturesque in the city!

Bloemgracht and Leliedwarsstraat

On the corner of Bloemgracht and Leliedwarsstraat, we can find the old stone tablet of ‘The Dove and the Olive Branch.’ The larger-than-life image of the dove stands perched atop an engraving of Noah’s arc. In 1614, the land here was purchased by carpenter Franchoijs Gisep. Gisep built two matching houses side by side. Just as Noah had two of each animal brought aboard his boat, Gisep had two houses. The houses were named the “Dove” and the “Oliver Branch,” respectively. Gisep had individual stone gables created for each house, but these were lost over the years.

In the 20th century, when the houses were joined together to form one large property, the new owner wanted to pay homage to the history of the home. So he created this blended stone tablet that ties the entire story together. Another example of modern-day owners still preserving the historic past of these old buildings.

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#15 Bloemgracht

Above the windows on the second floor is the 17th-century tablet depicting an armoured knight carrying a large spiked club. The knight is dressed in the armour of the Magnus of Schagen gentlemen. Schagen is a city northwest of Amsterdam whose coat of arms is depicted in the tablet. The text on the inscription beneath the image reads, “the knight and the rose.”

#19 Bloemgracht

The Pelican Book House can be found a few doors down at #19 Bloemgracht. We have seen the pelican’s image used as a symbol to represent the blood of Jesus Christ previously. But here, it is even more glorious, with the image of the sun of righteousness enlightening the entire scene. Below the bird is a cube with the symbols of Rosicrucianism. These are a series of lettered roses surrounding a golden cross. The word “Rosicrucianism” literally translates to “rose cross.” Rosicrucianism was based on Christian mysticism with occult traditions. The stone pelican was used to mark the entrance to their mystic library.

The entire stone is encircled by a bright green snake swallowing its tail. This is a classical symbol signifying the cycle of birth and death. The snake swallowing its own tail also represents the knowledge of good and evil. In Rosicrucianism, the collection of knowledge in their mystic libraries was one of the most important touchstones of the order.

#29 Bloemgracht

As the street was home to the Rosicrucian order, we can find even more mythical symbols abound. This unicorn tablet at #29 Bloemgracht was designed in the 20th century. It features the noble, rearing up against the brilliant golden sun. The sun’s rays emanate from the twisted horn, almost as if the sun is sprouting out of the unicorn’s head.

In the background, a beautiful waterfall flows down around a peaceful forest. The flowing water represents the symbol of everlasting life. Classically the blood of a unicorn was said to give the drinker everlasting life. And in mysticism, many people would seek out a unicorn horn to create the elixir of life, which was said to give the drinker everlasting life.

#59 Bloemgracht

This elegant stone tablet is a modern creation made in honour of the woodworking company, ‘Fa Hassink en Zn.’ The shop was opened in 1934 and remained here for over 50 years, closing in 1995. The swirling wood curl from the gilded block plane in the center wraps around the frame, almost tying it up in a pretty bow!

#77 & 81 Bloemgracht

The house symbols at #77 and #81 Bloemgracht are the largest and most impressive of all the plaques we’ve seen. Each scene depicted above the entrances features the same theme: “The old sower” and “The young sower.”

At #77, we can see a farmer sowing seeds from a simple satchel along his freshly ploughed field. A small house is featured in the right-hand corner, and a small tree sits off to the left in the distance. The houses along this street were once sugar refineries, and these stone tablets were commissioned for their warehouses. As they were created during the baroque period, the stone gables’ edges are decorated in ornate floral curls.

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The tablet at #81 features a young farmer, perhaps the son of the man featured in the previous frame. In this scene, the house on the right is much larger and surrounded by a few other homes. We can also see that the tree has grown substantially. This little vignette is perhaps a vision of the future. The hard work the father did paid off and provided a brighter future for his son. A good message for the warehouse workers to see on their way to work.

#87, 89 & 91 Bloemgracht

The enormous old warehouse stretching from #87 to #91 Bloemgracht was once the “pearls of the Jordaan” neighbourhood. The original warehouse was built in the 17th century in this beautiful Renaissance style. It was called the De Drie Hendricken, or House of the Three Hendricks. Hendrick Roelofsz was the architect of the building, and atop each of the three matching buildings, he placed a different image to denote one from the other.

The gable stones depict a townsman, a farmer and a sailor. These characters represented the three distinct parts of the Dutch economy; city, country and sea. The townsman is dressed in expensive finery, knee braces, a large billowing cloak, a wide-brimmed hat, and a pair of shoes with golden buckles. The farmer can be seen carrying a spade in his right hand and a stick with a basket on his right shoulder. Finally, we have the sailor depicted carrying a basket in his hands, an anchor at his feet, and a ship sailing in the background. After the warehouses closed down, the building was converted into three individual townhomes.

The Jordaan is full of more than its fair share of hidden symbols. And these stone gables are just one of the many hidden histories that lurk along the cobblestone-lined canals. I hope you enjoyed this tour and saw some amazing things along the way! Let me know in the comment how you liked the tour and anything else you’d like me to uncover for your next trip to Amsterdam!

Happy Travels, Adventurers.

References: gevelstenenvanamsterdam.nl | amsterdamsebinnenstad.nl

The post Ultimate Amsterdam Architecture Walking Tour, Jordaan’s Gable Stones & Secrets Symbolism first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Most people opt to go on a boat tour, and rightly so, as it is one of the most authentic ways to explore Amsterdam. But a tour on foot allows you to spend more time studying the buildings up close. This way you can get a real sense of the atmosphere and environment of different neighbourhoods spread across the city. A walking tour is a great idea as an intro to the city. You’ll get a taste and decide for yourself where you might want to return to study in greater detail. Don’t worry too much about being on the right side of the canal as we go. You can easily see these buildings from across the canal. But you can always cross over one of the many bridges in the city should you want to get a closer look.

Table Of Contents

1. How Long is the Tour?
2. Amsterdam History
3. Types of Gables
4. Walking Tour Starting Point: Brouwersgracht
5. Eenhoornsluis
6. Prinsengracht
7. Jordaan Neighbourhood
8. Keizersgracht
9. Lauriergracht
10. Beudekerbrug
11. Reguliersgracht 92
12. Magere Brug, the Skinny Bridge
13. Amstel
14. Herengracht
15. Koningssluis
16. Melkmeisjesbrug
17. Singel Canal
18. Blauwburgwal
19. The Torensluis
20. Bloemenmarkt
21. The Dancing Houses
22. Grimburgwal
23. Kloveniersburgwal
24. Oudezijds Voorburgwal
25. House at the Three Canals
26. Agnietenkapel

How Long is the Tour?

This is a full-day walking tour that takes you across the entire city! If you feel like splitting it up, feel free to customize the tour yourself! This way, you can spend some extra time in any of the museums listed. That is the joy of self-guided tours, after all. We will start our tour in the quiet northwest corner of the city in the Jordaan neighbourhood. Then we slowly make our way over to the southeast end.

Amsterdam History

Amsterdam began as a small fishing village. The village was located behind the large dam which protected the city from the overbearing Amstel River. The name “Amsterdam” comes from the location along the “Amstel” river and the “dam” which protected it. In less than 200 years, from the 16th to 18th century, the city of Amsterdam’s population exploded! It multiplied from 30,000 residence to 160,000 residents almost overnight. The city was a melting pot for immigrants from all over Europe. At the time, the Netherlands had a very tolerant climate towards refugees. With this came a massive influx of people from France, Portugal, Spain, and much of the Jewish population from Antwerp.

The Canal Expansion

Back then, Amsterdam was just this tiny island overflowing with people. The city needed to find a way to expand the city and cope with the growing population. So, the city council decided they would follow what the Italians did in Venice. They created a series of canals that spread out around the city. But unlike the winding, a spider web of canals in Venice, the design of the Amsterdam canals was very structured. They run in a half-moon shape around the bay encircling the historic medieval centre. Historians also call this the windshield wiper design.

Grachtengordel

The newly formed canal belt neighbourhood was called the Grachtengordel. “Gracht” translates to the word “canal” so literally, this was called the canal district. This new area would be designated for inhabitants. A fourth canal was added, the Singel Canal, which would be used for defence.

Building the canals was a pricey business. So the city offered wealthy merchants and bankers the opportunity to buy plots of land in these prestigious areas. This helped them secure the funds they needed to build the waterways. A portion of the outer canals was reserved for industrial use. As these factories were known for being loud and smelly the city wanted to keep them as far away from the aristocrats as possible.

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Creation of Canal House

Many of the houses you see in Amsterdam are built atop a series of wooden poles. If you were to scan a cross-section of the city, you’d see it look like a giant pin cushion. How many poles are there? Some say it’s as much as eleven million! The Amsterdam Centraal train station alone stands atop 9,000 poles. Each pole needs to be around 15-20 meters tall to be struck down deep enough to support the houses built atop it.

Amsterdam Roof Gables

During the 17th century, it was considered gauche to see the roof of a house from the street or canal. This is why you see so many of Amsterdam’s houses featuring ornate and prominent gables. A roof gable is a section of wall between the edges of a dual-pitched roof. It provides both an aesthetic and functional purpose. Many of the gables in Amsterdam also feature sturdy winches in the center. These were installed to help lift heavy items up to the upper floors of the home or warehouse.

Types of Gables

The uniquely shaped gables are one of the most notable features of Amsterdam’s architecture. There are four primary designs you can see across the city. These include; the stepped gable, the bell gable, the neck gable and the spout gable. Each type of gable corresponding to a different period of time, like spotting fashion trends through the ages.

Why are the Houses so Thin?

Another unique aspect of houses in Amsterdam are their width. The houses are designed to be tall and narrow. But this was originally not originally an aesthetic choice. Back then, taxes were calculated based on the width of the house, not the height. So the answer to building a large home without high taxes was to build upward.

Types of Hosues

There are two main types of houses you see along the canals. They are easily identifiable if you know what you’re looking for. There is the koopmanshuizen (merchant warehouse) and then the herenhuis (residential mansions and townhouses). Merchant houses were designed to work on a split-level design. The lower levels near the water could operate as warehouses and the upper levels were used as the living quarters. Everything from spices, tulips, coffee and more were stored here. To identify the warehouses you need only spot the large wooden shutters. These were only added to merchant’s houses. The shutters when opened allowed goods to be hoisted in up to the upper levels which allowed for more storage space. When closed, the large wooden shutters helped keep out the heat and sunlight to preserve the goods inside.

Walking Tour Starting Point: Brouwersgracht

Our tour starts on the Brouwersgracht. This canal was developed in the 17th century just north of the residential canal belt. It was a canal built for large warehouses. The location near the mouth of the river allowed quick access for ships returning piled with goods. The Brouwersgracht, or the Brewers’ Canal, was named as such due to the number of breweries in the area. The location not only made the delivery of goods simple, but it also meant these warehouses had the best access to fresh water. Essentially for breweries and distilleries.

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Brouwersgracht 218

On Brouwersgracht 224-218, we can see examples of neck gables. The house at #218 features a neck gable decorated with Doric pilasters that extend up in the style of Dutch Baroque architecture. The facade features three “oeil-de-boeuf” or “ox eyes”. These are small rounded windows (although these windows have since been bricked up.) Oeil-de-boeuf windows were popular design trends in Amsterdam and they pop up all over the city.

Hanging from the centre of these gables is a sizeable protruding hook. These hooks were used alongside a pulley system to move heavy items into the home. Although they were originally designed for the warehouses, to bring in spices, cotton or cocoa, in the residential homes they were used to move heavy furniture in and out.

Brouwersgracht 204-212

A group of 17th-century warehouses sit at Brouwersgracht 204-212. Standing on the top of the gables along this series of warehouses are a variety of Green Deer sculptures. The one in the center looks straight out over the canals, seemingly on guard. Whereas the two on either side lie in repose, looking in towards the centre deer. When the family built the warehouses in 1640, the deer were always the crowning glory of the gables. But they disappeared hundreds of years later. When the area residents discovered some old drawings of the warehouses that featured the lost deer, they collaborated to have them reconstructed. Although they are now made of plastic (as to not disturb the structural integrity of the gable), it’s nice to see the love that the neighbours have for their neighbourhood history.

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Brouwersgracht 196-188

Many of the houses along Brouwersgracht contain those iconic brightly coloured window shutters. Used to identify them as warehouses. You can see more examples of these along Brouwersgracht 196-188. All of these warehouses were built around 1636. In 2007 Brouwersgracht was voted the most beautiful street in Amsterdam by readers of Het Parool out of 150 nominations. And one can really see why. The canal is a lovely blend of all the most famous Dutch architecture. It is also home to a series of scenic houseboats that float along the canal. But since the canal is located far enough from the busy tourist centre, the area still feels peaceful and quaint.

Brouwersgracht 174

At #174 Brouwersgracht, you’ll find a vast building with the widest roof gable found anywhere in the city. Topping the centre of the gable is Amsterdam’s famous coat of arms. The coat of arms of Amsterdam consists of a large red shield with a black strip down the center. Punched along the vertical black stripe are three silver Saint Andrew’s Crosses. These three crosses are seen all over Amsterdam, either accompanied by the shield or sometimes just on their own. Unlike what you might think, “XXX” doesn’t stand for anything untoward or x-rated. St. Andrew is the patron saint of Amsterdam as he was a fisherman just like the earliest residents of the city. When St. Andrew was martyred, he was placed on an X-shaped cross, and the X became a symbol for the saint.

But why are there three Xs? Well, there are a few theories. One theory states that they represent the three formidable rivers Amsterdam controlled. Another is that it stands for the holy trinity. But my favourite theory is that they represent the three threats Amsterdam needed to protect itself against. These were fire, flood and plague.

Eenhoornsluis

Just a few steps from the Brouwersgracht is the great Eenhoornsluis or Unicorn Lock. This is one of the 16 “water locks” found around the city. These water locks were built in the 17th century to control the water levels inside the canals. They were meant to protect the town from flooding in from the swelling seas. Previous to 1916, these water locks actually allowed fresh ocean water into the city. But in 1916, a great flood caused much damage to the city. After this, the Southern Sea dike was built to prevent such a flood from ever happening again. This resulted in the transformation of the city’s water to be freshwater only, but the payoff was worth it in the long run.

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Prinsengracht

From the bridge, turn down onto the Prinsengracht. Prinsengracht, or the Prince’s Canal, was named after the Prince of Orange. This is the fourth of the four main canals belonging to the canal belt. The Canal Belt, and rings it formed around the city, would go onto give Amsterdam its distinctive crescent shape. The four canals which make up the Canal Belt are the Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and the Prinsengracht. The Prinsengracht is the longest of all the canals, stretching out over 3 km, on the outer edge of the city. The epic construction of the canal began in 1612 and took over 50 years to be completed.

Café Papeneiland

As we turn on Prinsengracht, we first stop off at the Café Papeneiland. This is the oldest cafe in Amsterdam, established in 1641! In the 16th century, during the Dutch Protestant Reformation, the government outlawed Catholicism. This meant all Catholics had to practice in secret or abandon their religion altogether. Many underground Catholic churches were built in response. Tunnels ran throughout the city to connect secret entrances to these churches. And this cafe was once one such location. The cafe’s name translates to “papists’ island,” as this part of town was known as a sanctuary for Catholics. The tunnel entrance is still located in the basement. If you order something from the bar (preferably their amazing dutch apple pie), ask the bartender nicely to show you the old entrance.

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Jordaan Neighbourhood

The area along the western side of Prinsengracht is better known as the Jordaan Neighbourhood. The canals closer to the historic center were generally reserved for the wealthy residents of Amsterdam. So the Jordaan Neighbourhood, away from the city centre, was a low-income area and somewhat of a slum. The roads and canals here are more slender than the rest of the city. This was done to save money on construction but resulted in what was seen as a more crowded district. It wouldn’t be until much, much later in Amsterdam’s history, that the area was gentrified into what we see today. Now, the Jordaan is one of the hipper parts of town.

But back in the 17th century, the area was densely populated by immigrants and refugees. Many of these refugees were from France. The name of the area, “Jordaan,” is derived from the french word “Jardin,” meaning garden. Many of the streets off of Prinsengracht are named after flowers.

Noorderkerk

Continuing along, you’ll come to the large Noordermarkt square. The square is dominated by the imposing Noorderkerk or North Church. The North and West Church (which we will see later) were financed by the same merchant guild who hired the same architect, De Keyser, to design them both. The North Church, built in 1620, was meant to be the “people’s church.” It was intended as a simpler version of the more ornate West Church. The Noorderkerk has a symmetrical, cross-shaped layout, reflecting the ideals of the Renaissance and Protestantism. De Keyser’s unique design combines an octagonal floor plan with a structure shaped like Saint Andrew’s cross. Four arms of equal length spread out around the building giving it almost a circular appearance.

The “people’s church” was a polite way to distinguish the population that attended. This town area was home to Amsterdam’s more impoverished population. The wealthy merchant didn’t want to associate with them. They were mainly fishermen, and apparently, the smell of fish was something the wealthy merchant didn’t have the stomach for.

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Van Brienenhofje

Located along Prinsengracht from #85 to 133 is the old Van Brienenhofje. This was one of 13 different breweries which were situated along Prinsengracht. When the brewery closed, it was transformed into an almshouse for the elderly. Today it is still used as a housing association for the poor.

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Prinsengracht 175

At Prinsengracht 175, you can see an old house that dates back to 1661. On the front of the house, are a series of gable stones. They are carved into the shape of a sheep, an ox and a lamb. These gable stones can be found on many of the older buildings around Amsterdam. They were called gevelstenen and used before there was an established numbering system along the canal. These symbols also were used to identify the occupation of the owner inside. This also helped the illiterate population of the city during the middle ages find different shops and businesses they required. Spotting these stone tablets makes for a fun eye-spy game as you explore the city!

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Keizersgracht

We’re going to take a quick detour over to the Keizersgracht by turning left along Prinsenstraat. The Keizersgracht (also called the Emperor’s canal) is the third canal in the canal belt. It was named after Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor. During the wintertime, if the weather is cold enough, the water freezes over thanks to the water locks which stop freshwater from entering. This allows residents to skate up and down the canal, a great way to get around during the winter. The canal is 31 meters wide, making it the widest of the waterways in the canal belt.

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Keizersgracht 44

The red shutters of #44 Keizersgracht mark it as a traditional merchant warehouse. But what makes this house different are the stepped gables. Most merchant houses didn’t feature these ornate gables as they were primarily used on residences. This house is also unique as the contents of the warehouse were whale blubber. Large cement pits were dug out in the basement where the whalers could store up to 50,000 litres of whale blubber.

Rode Hoed

The Rode Hoed (Red Hat) announces itself to the public in large red letters as you pass by. While the house looks almost like a church, it was initially a hat makers shop until 1629. After that, the building was purchased by the Remonstrants Brotherhood (a sect of Protestants). Like the Catholics, they needed to practice in secret. They built their underground church here, where they practiced until 1957. After that it was sold to a TV station. Thankfully, the station protected the appearance of the exterior for future generations to appreciate.

Keizersgracht 123

The house at Keizersgracht 123 is better known as the “House with the Heads.” The house was built in 1622 for merchant and art lover Nicolaas Sohier. It was built by city architect Hendrick de Keyser in high Dutch Renaissance style. The roof has been given that illustrious stepped gable design with decorative obelisks, pilasters, claw pieces and swathes of flowers blooming between the windows. Located above the pediments are these wonderful lion masks with their mouths wide open as if in a mid growl.

The house’s name comes from the six sculptural heads on the facade, located just above the first floor. These six heads were initially rumoured to represent six robbers who had once attempted to break into the house. They were caught in the act by the kitchenmaid and were beheaded with her own meat cleaver! Sadly, the story is nothing more than gossip but it makes for a great rumour. The heads acutally represent the six gods; Apollo, Ceres, Mercury, Minerva and Diana.

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Keizersgracht 177

The large brick mansion at #177 Keizersgracht is called the Coymanshuis. It was designed in 1625 by Jacob van Campen for two wealthy brother who were both bankers. The brothers made their fortune in silver and iron. They had huge families, one brother having six children and the other having ten! So, in turnn, they require a very large manor to house all those kids! Architect Jacob van Campen would go on to design the Amsterdam City Hall. He used this house as his winning portfolio piece to get the opportunity to work on the great city hall.

Homomonument

On the other side of the canal, opposite the large and imposing Westerkerk, is a series of steps leading down to a triangular platform. This is the Homomonument, a memorial to commemorate gays and lesbians citizens who were killed by the Nazisduring WWII. Pink triangle badges were used in concentration camps to identify gays and lesbians and the triangular design is used repetedly here to memorialize those actions. The Homomonument was designed to “inspire and support lesbians and gays in their struggle against denial, oppression and discrimination.”  An estimated 15,000 people were sentenced to concentration camps during WWII, many of whom, never returned.

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Astoria Building

Although there aren’t many art nouveau-styled buildings in Amsterdam, you can find one of the greatest here at Keizersgracht #174. This is the Astoria building, built in 1904 to serve as the head office for the Eerste Hollandsche Levensverzekerings Bank. Towering over the rest of the city, the Astoria was the first office tower ever built in the Netherlands. The Dutch style of art nouveau, also called the Nieuwe Kunst, is a much more restrained version of the art style found elsewhere in the world. The most impressive part of the building is the giant mosaic located on the facade depicting an angel protecting a young woman beside a small child.

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Anne Frank House

Turn back onto the Prinsengracht canal and make your way to Prinsengracht #263. The house is easily spotted by the long line of people outside. They are all waiting to see the famed Anne Frank House. It was here that little Anne Frank wrote her seminal diary. This book went on to ignite, inspire and inform young people the whole world about life during WWII.

The Secrets of the House

It was in this house that Anne and her family hid from the Nazis. The house was initially built in 1635 by Dirk van Delft, but the canal facade was renovated in 1740. The lower levels with their wide stable-like doors were initially used to house horses. Later, when Otto Frank bought the house, the space was used as a warehouse for household appliances, piano rolls, and spices. In the back part of the house, was concealed from the street. From the outside, you couldn’t make out the back extension that allowed Anne and her family to hid. A trick bookshelf was installed to give access to these large secret apartments.

Sadly, after hiding for two years, they were discovered by the Nazis during a raid and were sent to the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp. Anne’s father Otto was the only family member to survive. The employees who worked in Otto’s factory came back to retrieve anything left behind by the Nazis. Luckily, one of these items was Anne’s diary. When Otto returned to Amsterdam it was his life’s mission to publish the book. Not knowing how widespread her musings would become. If you are interested in visiting the museum, be sure to book tickets WELL ahead of time. I’m talking like two months early in some cases! You can also line up in the afternoon for day-of tickets but there is no guarantee you’ll get in and the line tends to be hours long.

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Westerkerk

Opposite the Anne Frank House is the 17th-century protestant Westerkerk. This church is most notable for its 87-meter tower, which can be seen all across Amsterdam. The top of the building is capped with the brightly coloured gilded Imperial Crown. The symbol of the imperial crown belonged to the Holy Roman Emperor, in honour of Maximilian I, archduke of Austria and ruler of the Low Countries. When Maximilian travelled to the Hague in 1484 he fell ill. He prayed that if he recovered he would make a pilgrimage to Amsterdam, where the miracle had been performed. When he was indeed healed, he granted the use of his coat of arms to the city of Amsterdam. The crown is covered in bright blue enamel and even decorated in shining jewels to look as realistic as possible.

The interior of the church is rather plain, painted in white with natural stones. The main feature of the interior is the 36 large windows which allow sunlight to pour in from any angle. There isn’t a single building surrounding the church that obstructs the light flowing in. The white painted interior highlights the glowing luminescence produced by these great windows.

Nieuwe-Wercksbrug

Walk up along the Nieuwe-Wercksbrug bridge to get a beautiful view down the canals. Standing on the bridge, you are walking along Rozengracht street. Rozengracht street translates to “rose street,” but back in the 17th-century, the area was nothing of the sort. The Rozengracht is one of the six filled-in canals located in the Jordaan neighbourhood. The canals had to be filled in because of the poor hygienic condition in the water due to the pollution. People threw everything from garbage, dead animals and human waste into the canal. The street literally smelled so bad they had to fill it in. Now you might understand the irony of giving it such a flowery name.

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Reesluis

Reesluis is the name of the bridge which crosses over this part of the Prinsengracht. From here, you have a fantastic view of Westerkerk’s giant clock tower that looms over the canal. The bridge is named after the Reestraat, which continues out to the east. The street’s name translates to “Deer Street.” This area of town was popular with animal skin traders and craftsmen who worked in the leather industry. The bridge is one of the older bridges in the area, built before 1625.

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Lauriergracht

From here, we are taking a short detour to the east along the Lauriergracht. The Lauriergracht, or the “Laurel Canal,” was a popular place for artists to live in the 17th century. I definitely find this canal contains many hidden artistic flourishes from bright stained glass windows, colourful exteriors and even just little ornate stonework hidden here and there. They are small flourishes but definitely a unique characteristic of the area.

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Lauriergracht 23

Built in 1658, this home was a typical 17th-century example of the fanciful neck gables of the time. This one features two huge lions set into claw pieces. The lions look like they are on the prowl, protecting the home from intruders.

The Houseboat Museum

Turn back to Prinsengracht until you reach the corner of Elandsgracht and Prinsengracht where you’ll find the Houseboat Museum. Since there are over 800 houseboats in Amsterdam, you’d be remiss in visiting the city without going inside of one. And unless you’ve booked one for your hotel stay (a great idea, by the way) or you know someone with a houseboat, this might be your only chance to see the interior of one in person. This houseboat dates back to the 1960s. It has such a retro vibe and still displaying all the ingenious ways people make the small spaces work for them as living quarters. There isn’t a drawer or cabinet not squeezed into place to make these floating homes just like the real thing.

Prinsengracht 300

At #300 Prinsengracht we’ll find another beautiful example of the stone house symbols. This one features a red fox with a blue sparrow in its mouth. The house was built for furrier Dirck Hendricksz Hooghvelt who made his living selling fox fur clothing. The house was originally called ‘De Witte Vos’ (meaning the white fox) until 1767 when the stone tablet was repainted white and the house went by the name ‘De Roode Vos’ (the red fox.)

Beudekerbrug

In 1949, while walking across the Beudekerbrug, singer-songwriter Pieter Goemans was inspired to write the famous song ‘Aan de Amsterdamse Grachten‘ (‘On Amsterdam’s Canals’). It is one of the most popular songs celebrating the city. You’ll often hear it played on street organs across the Netherlands. When the author died in 2000, his ashes were scattered here in the canal. The plaque on the bridge commemorates his contribution to the history of Dutch music.

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Palace of Justice – Prinsengracht 443- 436

From the corner of Prinsengracht and Leidsegracht, we can see the great former Palace of Justice. At the corner, the building has a much different style than the neo-classical facade further along. The entire structure was once the old ‘Weeshuis‘ or orphanage. This Weeshuis was designed to serve the poorest of Amsterdam’s children. Two small stone carvings on either side of the doors on the old brick building show the images of the nuns. The nun who worked in the orphanage are seen holding hands with the small children in the frame. Despite the updating of the rest of the building this small memento from history remains.

The orphanage was renovated into the Palace of Justice in 1825 by architect Jan de Greef. Greef was working under the stylist trends of the period. These were heavily inspired by ancient Greek architecture. The building features large stone columns, Corinthian capitals and heavy stone balustrades. On the second-floor facade, you can see a stone carving with a poem attributed to Jacob van Lennep. It reads, “Under your rule, Serene Willem! Is this Asylum rebuilt, and consecrated to Law and Justice.”

Prinsengracht 769

At Prinsengracht 769, you’ll find the old Prinsengracht Hospital. The original hospital was built in 1857 after the cholera epidemic in the 1850s. The hospital remained open for over 150 years, eventually closing in 2015. A modern co-working space company bought the property. They wanted to transform the individual hospital rooms into rentable desks spaces and meeting rooms for digital nomads and start-up companies. While the interior has been modernized, the facade remains much unchanged from the days when it served as a hospital.

The Deutzen Hofje

Facing out along the canal’s bend is the Deutzen Hofje at Prinsengracht 857. Hofje is the Dutch word for a courtyard with almshouses around it. Hofjes have existed since the Middle Ages providing housing mainly for the elderly. The house was built in 1695 with funds from a wealthy Amsterdam resident. She bequeathed the house over to the city to become free housing for older servants who couldn’t work anymore. On the front of the house are the words, “A comfort to the poor, an example to the rich.”

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Reguliersgracht 92

At the corner of Prinsengracht and Reguliersgracht is an old red-painted building. Take note of the interesting sculpture of a stork peeking out over the niche above the doorway. The building was first built in the 17th century for a popular midwife. She used the stork as a symbol and de-facto advertisement for her business.

De Duifbrug

De Duifbrug or the Dove Bridge has also been called the “tunnel of love.” The original name came from the fact the bridge was located next to the old De Duif church. But the nickname was given as it is thought to be one of the most romantic spots in the city. Standing on the bridge your vantage point looks out over at the seven different famous bridges that surround the area. When illuminated at night, it is one of the most magical places in the city!

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Brasserie Nel

Set back on the Amstelveld, is a charming tree-lined square. Located right inside is the old Brasserie Nel. The building, which houses the trendy restaurant with a picture-perfect patio, was built in 1668. It originally served as a temporary church before the De Duif was constructed. The restaurant is a great place to stop if you’re looking for somewhere to grab a bite to eat or just have a refreshing glass of beer!

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Magere Brug, the Skinny Bridge

Make your way down to the Amstel River to see the Magere Brug or “Skinny Bridge.” Considered by most to be the most beautiful bridge in the city. The Magere Brug is a bascule bridge or draw bridge. These bridges can be raised to provide clearance for large boat traffic to pass through. The present bridge was built in 1934 to accommodate these large boats which couldn’t pass under the original stone bridge.

The first incarnation of this passage across the river was installed in 1691. Back then, it is said that the bridge was created by two sisters who lived on opposite sides of the Amstel river. Each one wanted to be able to visit one another every day without having to jump into a boat. But the women weren’t super-wealthy and could only afford to build a very narrow bridge. Hence the original name “skinny” bridge. Walk out onto the bridge for some of the best photo opportunities in the city. The view looking out at the Amstel River as well as the view of the bridge and houses behind it are both stunning photo spots.

Amstel

The name Amstel is derived from the Dutch word Amestelle. “Ame” meaning water, and “stelle” meaning solid, high dry ground. In the 12th century, the Amstel river was developed to serve as a commercial waterway by the very wealthy Van Amstel family. The family had been an influential dynasty in the medieval Netherlands named after the river from which they drew their wealth. The river is truly the lifeblood of the town and is one of the most important transit routes in Amsterdam.

Herengracht

Walk back to Amstel street until you reach the Herengracht. The Herengracht is the second of four Amsterdam canals belonging to the canal belt, located right behind the Singel Canal. The portion of the canal was built in 1612. Previously the area was a simple moat dug for the companies on the Singel canal to use. The name of the canal was given in honour of Heren Regeerders van de stad, the Gentlemen Governor of Amsterdam. Today it goes by the nickname the Gentlemen’s Canal.

Willet-Holthuysen Museum

After walking past so many of these canal houses, take this opportunity to step inside one for yourself! The house at Herengracht 605 was built for the mayor of Amsterdam Jacob Hop in 1685. It was passed down to each subsequent mayor until 1895, when it passed hands to Abraham Willet and Louisa Holthuysen. When Willet died, Louisa bequeathed the house to the city of Amsterdam. She gave it along with their collection of art, furniture and another interior decor to serve as the Willet-Holthuysen Museum.

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The facade was renovated in 1739 to suit the new Louis XIV style. I adore the floral stone carvings, which look like they are real flowers growing out of the stone. Above the doorway is a large stone sculpture of St. George standing atop a slain dragon. Holding up the plinth is the head of an elephant whose trunk acts as a column holding up the entire stone tablet. The interiors all date back to 1895 and are a wonderful slice of that period of architecture, design and art in Amsterdam. Ticket prices for Adults are €12.50.

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Gouden Bocht

The Gouden Bocht or Golden Bend was built as the most prestigious part of the Herengracht. Many people who originally purchased the land here were regents, mayors and traders. They were encouraged to buy a double lot to ensure their mansion felt grand and imposing. Most of the residents made their living importing and exporting goods from South America or the Dutch East Indies. The name “golden bend” came from the fact that the city’s wealthiest families seemed to be amassed right here along the bend.

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Philips Vingboons and Adriaan Dortsman

Two architects were responsible for most of the structures along the Golden Bend. They were Philips Vingboons and Adriaan Dortsman. Philips Vingboons is known to be the originator of the famous neck gable design. Since Vingboons was a Catholic and the city was controlled by the protestant elite, he never had the opportunity to design any governmental or religious buildings in the town. These kinds of commissions would have brought in a substantial amount of money and fame for the artisan which he, therefore, missed out on.

Having two principal designers for one area meant the strip has a more uniform appearance. The styles they preferred featured very classical facades. Today, the Golden Bend keeps its name and is home to some of the largest banks and financial institutions in Amsterdam. Very appropriate.

De Bazel

Almost unmissable is the domanieering De Bazel building on the corner of Herengracht and Vijzelstraat. The building is the former headquarters of the Nederlandsche Handel-Maatschappij. The NHM was founded in 1824 by King William I to promote trade, shipping, shipbuilding, fishing, agriculture and manufacturing. One of their most important functions was supporting trade between the Netherlands and the Dutch East Indies. The building was designed by the architect Karel de Bazel in 1919. It is nicknamed De Spekkoek, which translates to pork belly. It is named as such because of the alternating light and dark colours of stone that look like layers of fat in bacon. Spekkoek is also the name of a popular dessert with the same light and dark layers but made with cake.

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Herengracht 446

The beautiful black brick facade at #446 was home to the Amsterdam regent family De Graeff. Andries de Graeff became the reigning mayor of Amsterdam in 1671. De Graeff was a Free Imperial Knight of the Holy Roman Empire. The Free Imperial knights were free nobles of the Holy Roman Empire, whose direct overlord was the Emperor. The upper gable is a stone shield with the De Graeff family coat of arms emblazoned on it. The coat of arms comprises two white swans and two shovels in either corner of the shield. The shovel represents the Herren von Graben family and the swans from the De Grebber family who joined together to form this new noble house.

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Koningssluis

The Koningssluis bridge is one of the more uniquely designed bridges in Amsterdam. The original bridge was from 1662, but the current incarnation was made in 1921 by architect Piet Kramer. Instead of removing the entire old stone bridge, Kramer worked to integrate the ancient stones with new decorative wrought iron railings. He was inspired by the art deco fashion of the time. Don’t miss checking out the stone and brick corner of the bridge. These feature stone sculptures in the shape of mythical animals which are little hidden gems to discover.

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Herengracht 394

The house on the corner of Herengracht and Leidsegracht is home to the ‘De Vier Heemskinderen‘ house. Notice the iconic house symbol above the doorway featuring a horse with four riders. This depicts the medieval story of the Four Sons of Aymon or the Heemskinderen. The house was built during the canal expansion in 1671. The high neck gable is decorated with carved floral garlands, which also embellish brick around the windows.

Herengracht 390-392

The houses along Herengracht 390-392 both feature incredible Dutch Baroque claw pieces adding a bit of interest to their neck gables. The houses were commissioned as a duo by the wood merchant Jan Teeringh and designed by Justus Vingboons. The ornately carved claw piece consists of a male and female figure leaning on the gable. A large cartouche was carved below them. On either side of the window are two large floral festoons, made to look like the stone facade has begun to bloom.

Museum of the Canals

If you are interested in learning more about the history of the canals in Amsterdam, make a stop inside the Museum of the Canals. Inside this historic grand mansion, you will travel back in time through over 400 years of history. You’ll be able to learn more about the history of Amsterdam and how the canals and the canal houses were built atop the water. Through minature scale models, 3D animations and interactive multimedia experience, you are really immersed into the world of Amsterdam’s history.

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Herengracht 380

Herengracht 380 is probably my favourite house along the Herengracht. It looks so much different than the rest of the buildings along the canal, in a very distinctive style. It was built in 1775 adjoining three other buildings which once stood here. Sadly, in the 19th century, a great fire burned down the old buildings, and they all had to be demolished. But this new treasure rose from their ashes. The architect Abraham Salm was inspired by his time in Paris and the castles he saw in the Loire valley. The french style of architecture is a rarity to find in Amsterdam. The facade is covered in exuberant decorations, carved medallions, large sculptures, ornate balustrades and sandstone lilies (an iconic symbol of France). Although it was initially designed as a residence, it has since passed hands and is a government office building today.

Cromhout House

The houses along 370-364 are lovely examples of the lavish designs of the 17th century. Initially built for wealthy merchant Jacob Cromhout, the house was designed in 1660 in Dutch classicist style by architect Philips Vingboons. The lower facade is mainly classical but the gables are covered in a stunning array of intricate stucco decorations, which are emblematic of the Dutch baroque area. Pay close attention to the oval oeil-de-boeuf windows surrounding gorgeous floral motifs. Besides the neck, gables are claw pieces in the shape of swirling shells, another element of baroque iconography. The building was previously home to the beautiful Bible Museum, but it closed permanently in 2020. The home is now used for travelling exhibitions.

Bartolotti House

The Bartolotti House at Herengracht 170 was built in 1617 for Willem Bartolotti van den Heuvel tot Beichlingen. Willem had married Giovanni Battista Bartolotti, who came from a wealthy family of merchants from Bologna. Hendrick de Keyser was the architect and one of the most influential Baroque Renaissance architects. And this house is perhaps the best example of his work. The richly decorated facade has pilasters, masks, vases, claw pieces, extensive balustrades, and one of the most elaborate stepped gables in the city. The actual facade of the house seems to be bent at a slight angle, as the home is located in what was called the “small bend” of the Herengracht. On the facade are two large cartouches with the inscription, “Ingenio et Assiduo Labore” (by ingenuity and diligence) on the left and “Religione et Probate” (by religion and righteousness) on the right.

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Herengracht 120

The charming black brick house with white accents at #120 was built in 1615 for cloth merchants Michiel Jansz de Lange and Adriaen Jacobsz van Noort. These merchants traded mainly with Norway, and they wanted to name their home after the King which they served. The style of the house with its large expansive windows is known as Amsterdam’s Urban Renaissance architecture.

Herengracht 81

One of the most spectacular historical houses is at #81. It announces its permanence with the date printed on the brick of 1590 when the house was first constructed. This is actually the oldest residential house in all of Amsterdam. It was initially a traditional merchant’s house, highlighted by those gorgeous wooden shutters. Before these brick buildings were constructed, in the medieval period in Amsterdam, all houses were built out of wood. But sadly, three great fires which ripped through the city destroyed all of these original homes. After the last fire in 1597, the government ensured all new houses were made in brick to help prevent future widespread fires. I adore the stepped gable located on this house; the red brick and white stone atop each step really highlight the shape and makes it so unique.

Melkmeisjesbrug

The Melkmeisjesbrug will take you from Herengracht over the Brouwersgracht. The word “Melkmeisjes” means “milk market.” When the bridge was first built in the 17th century, it was located near the large Dutch milk market. You’ll notice a set of three burgundy-coloured bollards situated on either end of the bridge. These were installed to prevent large vehicles from passing over the old bridge, which cannot withstand the weight. This was actually the first place they were installed. They are called the Amsterdammertje (Dutch for ‘little one from Amsterdam’). They are imprinted with three Saint Andrew’s Crosses from the coat of arms of Amsterdam.

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Singel Canal

Walking south from the Haarlemmer Sluice we will come upon the last of the canals in the Canal Belt; the Singel Canal. The Singel encircled Amsterdam’s medieval centre, serving as a moat around the city until 1585. The Dutch word “omsingelen” means “to surround” as the canal literally surrounded and protected the medieval old town as a makeshift fortress of water. The trench was dug in 1428, making it the oldest of the channels in the central belt.

Singel 7

On the east side of the canal at Singel #7, we find the little slice of a house. It barely registers as a house at all when you pass by it. This is indeed the narrowest house in Amsterdam. The house is literally only a door’s width wide, with a singular window located on the second floor. Since we know that the property was taxed based on width, this building would have been a real penny pincher.

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Ronde Lutherse Kerk

Although it’s now used as an event space, the imposing Ronde Lutherse Kerk or Nieuwe Lutherse Kerk was once the former New Lutheran church in Amsterdam. It was built in 1668 as the second and thus “new” Lutheran Church after the Old Lutheran Church had become too small. This building couldn’t cope with the many Lutheran immigrants coming into the city.

Lutheran architecture forbids the construction of bell towers, so instead, the architect wanted to make the great dome as the central focus of the church. Crowning the top of the dome is the Lutheran swan. The swan is a famous symbol in the Lutheran church because of its connection with Jan Hus. Hus was a key predecessor to the Protestant movement in Bohemia during the 16th century. His teachings had a strong influence on Martin Luther. When Hus was sentenced to be burnt alive, just before he said, “today you will roast a goose, but a swan will rise from the ashes.”

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Londenvaarders

The area along the Singel canal from the Ronde Lutherse Kerk to the Lijnbaanssteeg is known as Londenvaarders. This part of the canal was where ships coming in from London would be docked. Anyone walking around this area during the 17th century would find English sailors and merchants everywhere they looked and it became a de facto embassy for Englishmen.

Singel 36

Look across the canal at #36 Singel. From this further away vantage point, you can really appreciate the elegance of the beautiful cornice in Louis XV style, which tops the house. In the centre of the richly decorated balustrade is this incredible carving of the god Mercury lounging, holding in his hand a large purse. Surrounding the relaxed god is a series of items relating to the trade industry like barrels, wine and animals. The house was originally built in 1763 for shipowner and trader Tamme IJsbrandsz Beth. Beth was troubled by the arrival of the British and the fact the London ships took over the area and wanted to create a powerful facade that would show his dominance over the British fleets.

Blauwburgwal

Continue along the Singel canal until you come to the Blauwburgwal canal on your left. The Blauwburgwal canal is the shortest waterway in the city center. It is sandwiched right between the Singel and the Herengracht by two scenic bridges. The trees which line either side of the little canal makes this such a picturesque little scene to stop in and look at.

De Dolphijn

Head back to the Single Canal and make your way down to #140. This is better known as the house De Dolphijn. The house was built in the 17th century for soap merchant Hendrick Laurensz Spieghel. The front facade consists of two identical stepped gables made of that iconic red brick with sandstone highlights. The house is one of the best examples of Dutch Baroque architecture in the style of Hendrick de Keyser.

The main characteristics of this style were the symmetrical facades created from brick using classical references. This can be seen with the addition of the images of Greek masks featured above the window pediments on the first floor. The house is one of the few facades in Amsterdam that still has scroll ornaments along the gables. Originally the house featured dolphins on both sides gable. The dolphin was the emblem of the Spieghel family, and therein is where the nickname of the house came from.

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The Torensluis

As we continue down the Single Canal, we come up the enormous Torensluis bridge. This bridge is the oldest and widest bridge in the entire city, preserved since 1648. It measures a whopping 42 meters wide! The word “Torensluis” means “tower lock,” as the bridge was once home to a great tower that stood here until the mid-19th-century. Looking back at the bridge from further along the canal, study the area under the bridge along either side of the arches. There you can spot several small barred windows. Beneath the bridge, there was once a dungeon and prison cells connected to the old tower. Truly an example of how ingenious the architects of the city were. Using every little bit of space to cram in more infrastructure.

Multatuli Statue

Most of the bridge is now used by the cafes nearby as patio space. But amidst these seats is a statue of Dutch writer Multatuli. Eduard Douwes Dekker, better known by his pen name “Multatuli,” was a Dutch writer best known for his satirical novel Max Havelaar. This book was one of the first to denounced the abuses of colonialism in the Dutch East Indies. It is a considered piece of writing from 1860. Multatuli was truly a man ahead of his time as an anti-colonialist.

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Singel 188

On the other side of the bridge at #188, we can find another great example of Amsterdam’s stone tablets. Most of the general public couldn’t read during the middle ages. Therefore to help businesses bring in customers, these stone tablets used pictorial images to depict their goods and services. This is a perfect example as the tablet above the doorway features a windmill. The house is named the “De Roo Oly Molen” or “The Red Oil Mill.” A few doors down at #194, you can find another example of a cobbler’s shop. This stone features a shoe and some cobbing equipment. Hundreds of years ago people would have just one shoe to their name and repairing their shoes was much more common than we do today. Early examples of sustainability.

Singel 192

The house at #192 features a beautiful neck gable with this curved pediment featuring a brightly painted bunch of grapes. The house was built in 1739 in Louis XIV style for the wine merchant Arend Roger. Just another example of how some merchants liked to advertise their businesses through their gable architecture. Something I genuinely wish we still did today, a great way to get to know your neighbours!

Singel 288

The gable along the top of the house at #288 features this wonderfully playful dolphin’s head. The dolphin appears to be bursting forth from the house with a spray of water cresting up behind him. Dolphins are a frequent symbol seen throughout Amsterdam, even though the canals are not home to these sea creatures. But the animals have a deep connection to the sailors and sailing merchants who would greet these great beasts on their voyages. Incorporating them into their home designs was a means of keeping that connection to the waters close to home.

Singel 326

The 18th-century house at #326 features the most incredible scene on either side of the beautiful neck gable. Sitting against the curved claw pieces are statues of Neptune and Mercury holding a golden trident and caduceus, respectively. Surrounding the lifting beams are also a swath of Acanthus leaves. Acanthus leaves are a symbol of enduring life. When combined with the images of Mercury, we can imagine that this house was perhaps a doctor’s residence.

Old Lutheran Church

The sizeable windowed building at #411 is the Old Lutheran Church. And when I say old, I mean old. It was built in 1632, that’s over 350 years ago! The church is a very, very odd one to visit. It is such an irregular shape. The floorplan curving to flank the edge of Spui road on the northern side of the building.

Singel 460

House #460 Singel is better known as the House Nürnberg or the Odeon building. It was designed by famed architect Philips Vingboons in 1661. However, previously, the lot had been used as a brewery as early as 1586. What makes this building stand out is the tall neck gable. The building is built in a rich, dark burgundy brick with contrasting light sandstone curved claw pieces decorated with elaborate festoons. Two oeil-de-boeuf windows stand below either side of the claw pieces. A large Cartouche surrounds the huge lifting hook. The festoons from the upper levels hang down below the windows. Looks like the building has been decorated for the holidays every day of the year!

Bloemenmarkt

Walking along Singel crossing the Koningsplein, we enter the great Bloemenmarkt. The Bloemenmarkt is the world’s only floating flower market founded in 1862. Back then, this part of the city was where flower growers would enter the canal to sell their plants. They travelled on large barges that floated beside the canal and buyers would simply hop on the barge. The barge would sit beside the streets and return to their ships once all the flowers were sold. Today the barges are affixed to the mainland. Sadly, much of the original flower market has disappeared over the years. Few to no vendors actually sell blooming flowers here. Instead, the market is mainly a tourist attraction with gift shops and souvenir stands. These focus primarily on tulip paraphernalia.

Tulip Bulbs

Some of the vendors do sell fresh tulip bulbs which you can bring home to plant. But only if your country allows them through customs (be sure to check!) Although it’s super touristy, I actually loved looking at the varieties of tulip bulbs for sale. It’s incredible to see how many different colours and even new “designer” flowers have been created. They were made by combining different strains of tulips together in the lab. If you can try to ignore the hoards of tourists and just focus on this, you might actually get something out of a visit to the Bloemenmarkt. But the Bloemenmarkt can get super crowded! You only need to see a portion of it to get the idea. I would advise jumping down Sint Jorisstraat and then walking along Reguliersdwarsstraat until you reach Vijzelstraat. This little back street is a great way to avoid the crowds.

Munttoren

Walking over Muntsluis bridge to find your way to the great Munttoren (Mint Tower), which sits at the intersection of the Amstel River and the Singel Canal. The great tower was initially located at the entrance to the city’s main gates along Amsterdam’s medieval wall. The original building was made in 1480 and consisted of two towers and a guardhouse. After the great fire of 1618, the tower was rebuilt as you see it today in Amsterdam Renaissance style. The entire structure was replaced in 1885 but maintains its medieval design.

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In the 17th-century, during the Dutch wars against England and France, the city was occupied by these factions. The transportation of coins from their location outside the city was impossible with these restrictions. So the guardhouse was set up as a temporary mint, giving the tower its official nickname. The building features a beautiful tower design by Hendrick de Keyser. They installed a clock face on every side of the spire so that citizens on every corner of town could look to it to tell the time.

The Dancing Houses

Make a quick detour over the Halvemaansbrug and onto ‘s-Gravelandseveer street. From here you have the best vantage point over to the famous Amsterdam Dancing Houses. Since houses in Amsterdam were built upon muddy marshland and stand on old pine-wood poles, some of the houses have begun to shift and sink over time. Surprisingly it’s not the weight of the house that creates the unevenness, but the water level. So long as the pole remains under the water, its integrity is preserved. But the second the water level drops, the wood can start to rot. The rot weakens the structure and causes this sagging effect. Although many houses are sinking, this row of houses seems to be suffering the most. They have become affectionately known as the “dancing queens” or “dancing houses.” The wobbling levels making them appear as though they are dancing up and down.

Grimburgwal

Just around the corner from the Dancing Houses is the Grimburgwal. This canal marks the outskirts of the Red Light District. The Grimburgwal also marks the entrance to the Medieval centre of Amsterdam. This narrow watery passageway connects the great Oudezijds Voorburgwal to the Amstel river via the Rokin canal. The name “Grimburgwal” comes from the word “grim,” which means “muddy ditch” and “burgwal” which means earthen wall. This part of the city was home to this large earthen wall dug out along the muddy waters used to protect the medieval city. The wall was destroyed in 1384 during the city’s expansion. The Grimburgwal remained the city’s southern canal border until 1425 when the canal belt began to be constructed. It’s a small, almost forgettable canal today, but its rich history is something to take note of.

The view from the Amstel River along the medieval Groenburgwal, with the steeple of the Southern Church in the background, has been painted by several famous painters over the years. Rembrandt himself would come here to paint as the canal was so close to his home. But the most famous painting of the canal was made in the 19th-century by impressionist painter Monet.

Kloveniersburgwal

From Grimburgwal walk back towards the Aluminium Bridge, which crosses over the Kloveniersburgwal. The Kloveniersburgwal canal was dug out in the 15h-century originally designed as a defensive canal to protect the Oudeschanst. The canal’s name comes from the division of the civic guards called the ‘kloveniers‘ who worked along with these defences.

During the Second World War, Kloveniersburgwal was the border of the Jewish quarter. It was here that the Germans started to segregate the Jewish population of Amsterdam before sending most of them off to concentration camps. At one point, more than 25,000 Jewish people were living here. Sadly, 75-80% of the people from the neighbourhood were deported and murdered by the Nazis. After the war, this part of town must have been hauntingly empty, a constant memory of the loss.

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal

Walk west along Vendelstraat, through the pedestrian walkway north towards the Sleutelbrug, which looks out over the entrance to the Oudezijds Voorburgwal. The Oudezijds Voorburgwal (often abbreviated to OZ Voorburgwal) means “old city walls.” This area was where the defensive ramparts continued around the old medieval city. The canal was originally nothing more than a little creek but was dug out to create this large waterway in the 14th century. As the canal was one of the first large expansions, it is where we can find some of the oldest buildings in Amsterdam.

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Red Light District

During the Dutch Golden Age, the canal was a hub for commerce and ships coming into port. This influx of sailors led to the development of what we now call the “Red Light District.” While some people only come here to gawk at the red light dancing girls, there is so much more to this historic canal to see and appreciate.

Despite the fact that today the area is known for its illicit activities, in the middle ages, the canal was where you could find a large number of monasteries, churches and religious institutions. During the 17th century, many wealthy Catholic merchants made this part of the city their home. Back then, the area was nicknamed the “Velvet defence-canal“. Sort of a dig at the rich merchants who lived here who were known for dressing in fancy velvet clothing.

House at the Three Canals

At the intersection of the Oudezijds, the Achterburgwal and the Grimburgwal, we find the Huis Aan De Drie Grachten or House on the Three Canals. Name because it is located at this meeting point of these three famous waterways. This house is so fantastical, designed in high Dutch Renaissance style. I especially love the large leaded glass window and set-in brick arches above them. The charming red wooden shutters making it so classical Dutch looking. The house was originally two separate lots built around 1610!

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The house was designed for bricklayer Claes Adriaensz van Delft. Seeing as it was made for a bricklayer it is only appropriate that the bricks on this house are among the most impressive parts of the entire building. During the 1930s, a bookstore was opened in the house. Inside, the various bookshelves hid behind them, secret compartments where Jewish people on the run from the Germans could hide. These hidden compartments were only discovered in 2005 during renovations to the building. Adding to the already illustrious history of the building.

Agnietenkapel

Behind this grand arched entrance, is the doorway into the old Agnietenkapel, also known as the Chapel of the Convent of Saint Agnes. This is one of the oldest structures in the city, dating back to 1470. In the 15th century, the area along the southern half of Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal was called the stille zijde or the “quiet side.” This so-called peaceful part of town became popular with religious institutions looking for a monastic place to build their home. Away from the hustle and bustle of the raucous trade center. Very ironic today that all these churches are now located in what would be considered the most unholy neighbourhoods, the Red Light District.

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Athenaeum Illustre

In 1578, when the Catholic city government was deposed in favour of the Protestant one, all Catholic churches and monasteries were demolished. This was called the Alteratie, or the “alternative.” But the Agnietenkapel was thought to be too beautiful to be destroyed. Instead, in 1631 it was converted into the Athenaeum Illustre. The Athenaeum Illustre, or Amsterdamse Atheneum, was a city-sponsored ‘illustrious school.’ An Athenaeum Illustre was neither a university nor just a school. It fell somewhere between where it would teach at an academic level, but there were no degrees given out. In the 17th century, each province was only allowed one official university, and Holland already had a university at Leiden. It wasn’t until 1815 that it was recognized as an official academic institution where diplomas could be given out. Leading to its transformation into the University of Amsterdam.

Church Gate

The Agnietenpoort or Church Gate is fantastically carved with so many ornaments placed along the archway. You can see why they decided to preserve it when it changed hands from the church. On the top, set into a large shield is the Amsterdam coat of arms. The coat of arms of Amsterdam consists of a red shield (here just plain stone) with three silver Saint Andrew’s Crosses down the middle highlighted by a black pale. The black pale symbolizes the Amstel River, while the three crosses represent the three dangers of Old Amsterdam: fire, floods and the Black Death. St. Andrew is the patron saint of Amsterdam as he is the patron saint of fisherman as the city was originally just a small fishing village.

Surrounding the coat of arms is typical Vredeman de Vries motifs. Hans Vredeman de Vries was a Dutch Renaissance architect best known for his publication in 1583 on garden designs. Inside this book were many drawings of floral ornamentations that have since been referenced ever since on buildings all over the city. A large cartouche frames the emblem with the year 1631 below and a roaring lion on top. The Dutch Republic Lion was the badge of the Union of Utrecht and a precursor of the current coat of arms of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. You’ll find lion symbols all over the city to represent this ancient heraldry.

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Amsterdam Municipal Pawnshop

Pawnshops have truly been around forever! Proof positive of this fact is the old Municipal Pawnshop found along the canal. This building was established in Amsterdam in 1616. It was created as a municipal charity to protect poor people from shady loan sharks. These loan sharks would lend out money at a sky-high interest rate that made it impossible to ever pay back and get out of debt. The Amsterdam Municipal Pawnshop, or Stadsbank van Lening, was started as a not-for-profit city bank that still operates today! It is considered the oldest bank in Amsterdam and one of the oldest banks in the world!

Above the doorway, you’ll find the city coat of arms topped by the Emperor’s crown. In gold lettering, along the pediment over the doorway, is a poem in Dutch. It reads, “Have you neither money nor property, pass this door. Have you the last, and do you miss the first, come to me. Give pledge, I give you money, why should I guarantee you? Or isn’t it enough that you live off mine? But if you return your pledge, you must take care in time. That my principal will return with interest. I help you and me and show it to the investigators. Of my secrets, the grave of forgotten usurers.“

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The Prinsenhof

Another holy institution located along the Oudezijds Voorburgwal was the St. Cecilia Monastery. The original church was built in the early 15th century but after the Alteratie, the Catholic institution was converted into the city’s Prinsenhof in 1581. It was named the ‘Prinsenhof‘ after Prince William of Orange. In the late 16th century, the prince of Orange was the ruler of the Netherlands and would often use the building as his primary residence. It was later used as the Admiralty in the 17th century.

Prinsenhof as City Hall

In 1808 King Louis Bonaparte pulled the old switcharoo and wanted to convert the beautiful Dam City Hall into his Royal Palace. This meant the city needed to find a new location for its city hall. Seeing as the Prinsenhof was little used at this time, it was selected as their new City Hall. The building was used as accommodation for visiting dignitaries, mayors and, of course, city council meetings. When the city council moved in, the building saw a huge change in the architecture to suit its new function.

Amsterdam School Style

The new style of architecture which came out of the building of the new city hall was called, “Amsterdam School Style.” Like all variations of Dutch architecture, it heavily featured brickwork. The use of bricks is the primary building material in Amsterdam is due to the fact that the city’s access to clay. Clay is found in abundance around the rivers which encircle the city. Amsterdam School structures are also characterized by a rounded appearance, as demonstrated here by the curved facade bowing out towards the canal. The style also tended to favour decorative masonry, wrought iron accents, spires and ‘ladder’ windows. The style is slightly reminiscent of the Art Deco design aesthetic but with a Dutch interpretation. The decorative masonry here features large artistic pillars along the first floor. They depict men and women as symbols correlating to administrative virtues such as simplicity, courage, and diligence.

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City Hall Public Urinal

Across from Oudezijds Voorburgwal #195 is a small brick and stone cylindrical structure which is actually a public urinal! A urinal probably seems like a very strange thing to make a point to visit. But this urinal has become an actual National Monument. It was built in 1926 and renovated for the new City hall. The urinal was designed to fit into the same uniform Amsterdam school style as the City Hall. Right on top of the urinal entrance, you’ll find another sculpture designed by artist Hildo Krop. This sculpture matches the same sculptures on the pillars outside the City Hall. If nature calls, men can still use the rudimentary bathroom today!

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal 187

The Dutch Classical black brick building at #187 has a very interesting gable design, specifically around the ornate claw pieces. The house was built in 1663 for an American tobacco trader. We can tell the house was designed for a merchant working in the Americas because of the imagery featured in the claw pieces. We can see sculptures of the merchant’s enslaved Africans holding tobacco leaves. Above them are pictured personifications of indigenous workers carrying large harvest baskets. 

Amsterdam’s Architecture of Colonial Exploitation

Many parallels can be drawn between America’s colonization and the enslavement of the African people to the Netherlands’ own dark colonial past. Everyone knows that the “Dutch Golden Age” was the city’s great boom in the 17th century brought about by its free and tolerant society and its enormous trading empire. With the creation of the Dutch East India Company, the Netherlands had an empire of ships that roamed the coastlines of Asia and Africa.

But it wasn’t just spice and silks they brought home. They also colonized countries and robbed them of their natural resources. And although the Dutch didn’t bring slaves back to their home country, the colonies suffered through a period of around 200 years of slavery until it was abolished in 1863. While houses like this and other images of slavery are tough to observe, it’s essential to understand and accept this period of Amsterdam’s history. You can learn a lot more about Amsterdam’s Architecture of Colonial Exploitation in this great article!

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 136

The house on Oudezijds Voorburgwal #136 was first built in the 16th century. Above the doorway, there is an iconic wooden relief featuring the famous navy officer Admiral Cornelis Tromp. Cornelis Maartenszoon Tromp lived in Amsterdam but never at this particular residence. In fact, the relief wasn’t installed until well after his death. The house was purchased by trader Jan Pranger who had a great reverence for Cornelis Tromp as a fellow sea traveller.

Admiral Cornelis Tromp Stone Tablet

Tromp can be seen in his heroic pose, his hand resting on a large globe above a scrolled nautical chart in the background. The relief was hidden for years when the house was converted into a printing shop that covered up the old plaque. In the 1990s, when the house was being refurbished, the old emblem was released, and they went about restoring the brightly painted colours to their former glory. The house basement was converted into a sex shop in 1980 but today the house serves as the headquarters for the green energy initiative in Amsterdam.

Bulldog Coffeeshop

The Bulldog Coffeeshop is a famous landmark in the neighbourhood as it is the oldest “coffee shop” in Amsterdam. It was established in 1974 as a secret “speakeasy” for soft drugs. Despite multiple raids over the years, eventually, the city began to tolerate the sale of these drugs. Many people think marijuana is legal in Amsterdam, and surprisingly that’s not the case. But it is generally accepted, even by the police, who look the other way. The original location is worth visiting as you can discover more about the history of cannabis in Amsterdam inside.

Even if you don’t partake in the consumption, you can’t visit Amsterdam without seeing what these “coffee shops” are all about. Plus, this location has a full menu with food and drink options that don’t contain any drugs. I myself don’t partake but still had a blast checking them out and seeing what a comfortable, friendly atmosphere I was greeted with inside.

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The Oude Kerk

The crowing glory of the Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal is the grand Oude Kerk. The Oude Kerk or “Old Church” is named as such because is the oldest religious institution in the city. The first wooden part of the structure was constructed here in 1213! Originally the church was named St. Nicolas Church after the patron saint of the city.

The area they selected for the church was a sold mound in the otherwise marshy settlement. This allowed the church to grow in size without requiring much additional foundation work. Today the church sprawls out over 36,000 sq ft. Each generation of Amsterdam’s religious elite seemed to have added their own personal touch in its expansion. In the 14th century, the side aisle was lengthened, and the great medieval wooden vaults were installed. These remain to this day are the oldest medieval wooden vault in all of Europe. The vaults were made out of great Estonian oak planks. Some of the plants were stained in various colours to look like paintings on the ceiling. Bands of florals surround each part of the vault with golden stars decorating the keystones. These vaults are still thought to provide some of the best acoustics even amongst the more modern churches.

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Miracle of Amsterdam

In the 14th century, the church was the site of the “Miracle of Amsterdam.” One day, a dying man accepted the sacramental bread during communion. But after ingesting it, he began to vomit it up in a fit of pain. When the priests threw the vomit into the fire, the bread did not burn, and the act was proclaimed a miracle. Even stranger than the miracle itself was the fact that the vomitted bread was preserved in a relic chest and kept inside the church. Sadly their miracle relic was one of the many items which disappeared during the Alterie.

Stained Glass

In the 15th century, a north and south transept were added to change the floorplan of the church into a cross shape. The beautiful large windows inside the church were installed in 1406 and were once covered in vibrant stained glass. More and more windows were added over the years, totalling 33 large-scale artfully made scenes. Sadly during the great fire of 1536 and the gunpowder explosion in 1654, all of these original windows were destroyed.

Most of the windows are now plain glass replacements but, beginning in the 20th century, these windows began to be restored. Using paintings, drawings and historical architectural plans, the church museum started to create modern interpretations of the ancient windows. There were created by artist Joep Nicolas. The windows depict various biblical stories, such as the Parable of the Prodigal Son and the story of baby Moses. But they also commissioned some modern, secular scenes as well. Inside the Memorial window are depictions of WWII victims who were killed during the Nazi occupation. The Libration window also commemorates the Netherlands’ liberation from the German and Japanese occupiers.

Oude Kerk & the Alterie

After the Catholic Reformation in Amsterdam during the late 16th century, the church was looted and defaced on multiple occasions. This stripped the church of much of its original decorations save for a few paintings. The thieves couldn’t reach them as they were installed high up under the vaults. After the Reformation, the church was used as a meeting house for the public. People would come here to escape the cold and the rain to gossip, sell their goods, and it was even used as a de-facto homeless shelter.

In the 17th century, the church was reconsecrated and been given a fresh coat of paint. New decorations were installed, including a new oak screen which referred to the desecration during Reformation. It states, “The prolonged misuse of God’s church, was here undone again in the year seventy-eight.”

Rembrandt & Oude Kerk

One of the most famous Dutch painters, Rembrandt himself, was a frequent visitor to the Oude Kerk. All of his children were baptized inside the temple, and it is one of the few original buildings left in Amsterdam where the painter roamed the halls. His wife, Saskia van Uylenburgh was buried here in 1642 inside the Holy Sepulchre. Another famous figure buried is naval hero Jacob van Heemskerck who was a central figure in Rembrandt’s masterpiece The Night Watch.

Today, the church is used as a contemporary art gallery where the ancient architecture is the backdrop for modern art. Entry into the church costs €12 for adults and €7 for students; children under 13 are free. On Sunday mornings, the church still opens its doors for worshippers for free but only for those serious about coming in to pray.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 57

Across the bridge from the Oude Kerk at #57 is a gorgeous example of Amsterdam Renaissance architecture made by the famous architect Hendrick de Keyser. They call the house the De Gecroonde Raep. It features one of the finest examples of stepped gables in Amsterdam. With these gorgeous scalloped stone carvings above each step. The facade also features these beautiful brace arches above the windows with smallmasks set into the pediments. Iconic features of Keyser are the double pilasters with cartouches set in between the brick pillars.

Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic Museum)

Hidden behind an otherwise simple brick facade is an example of a “schiller” or “clandestine church.” After the Reformation, Catholics needed to practise their religion undercover. A few old houses on the canal were converted into these secret churches. This church went by the name Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic Museum). It was built by a Catholic merchant in 1663 who transformed his third-floor attic space into the beautiful yet cramped religious wonderland you find today. Personally, I adore the pink-painted balustrades and railings, such a unique touch.

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Visiting the Museum

After Catholics could practice in public once more, the church was exposed and opened as a museum in 1888. This makes it the second oldest museum in Amsterdam. Today, it remains a museum visited by over 85,000 people annually. In addition to viewing the secret church, you can also tour the 17th-century merchant canal house interior. Tickets are €14 for adults and €7 for children and students.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 18

House at #18 bears a striking (if not a simplified version) of the house saw a few doors down at #57. The curved arches above double pilasters are a clear sign of the work of Hendrick de Keyser. Above the third floor, there are face masks, but on the lower levels, we find lion masks. Above the stone gable is a relief depicting the legendary castle of Egmond aan den Hoef.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 14

The Het Wapen van Riga, at #14, is a 17th-century merchant’s house. In the center, we find relief of the coat of arms of the country of Riga. The original house was built for a wealthy merchant who was indeed from Riga and this emblem was a way of paying homage to his home. The lions are a powerful symbol of the city of Riga. Two golden lions on a grey plinth were thought to symbolizes the strong foundation of the city and the bravery of its citizens. You can also find two of Riga’s lion heads protruding off either side of the stone gable on the first floor.

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Oudezijds Kolk

Walk over and stand on the old Armbrug bridge to look out over the Oudezijds Kolk. During the Middle Ages, most of the canals in Amsterdam looked more like this canal. The old canals didn’t feature any sidewalks or laneways as the primary mode of transport was solely boats. When the newer canals around the canal belt were built, the boom of horse-drawn carriages had taken over. These canals were built to feature roads for horses and eventually cars to travel along. This canal is one of the last remains medieval canals in Amsterdam and a gem to treasure.

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Weeping Tower of Amsterdam

At the end of the Oudezijds Kolk canal, you will find the largest of the three remaining medieval city towers. It goes by the Weeping Tower of Amsterdam. The legend goes that the wives of the sailors who were off to sea would come up to the tower to wave their last goodbye. Tears obviously ensued, echoing down the canals. The life of a sailor was a tough one as storms, scurvy, war, and pirates were all things that a sailor would come up against at sea. And most of these wives knew that upon saying goodbye there was a good chance they would never return.

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This brings us to the end of our canal tour of Amsterdam. Hopefully, you’ve discovered more about the history, architecture, canals, and culture spread out across the waterways throughout our day together. There are so many more secrets to be found down all the different side canals in this city so let me know if you want to share some of your favourite spots!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Amsterdam Canal Tour On Foot first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Stroopwaffels

Stroopwaffels are my top Dutch treat! There is no competition. Stroopwaffels are wafer-thin cookies with a layer of ooey-gooey caramel syrup layered in between. The dish was invented in nearby Gouda, but the Amsterdam chefs perfected the recipe. The best way to eat then is to hot off the griddle. You can find Stroopwaffel stands all over the place but especially in marketplaces. When they are free the waffle is still slightly bendy, and the caramel in the center is almost runny. Sounds messy but its honestly the best way to eat them! Just grab some napkins.

Although stroopwafels are inarguably delicious, my affinity for the cookie is also very personal and hilarious. When I left Amsterdam I bought a large package of Stroopwaffels to bring home to my family. After travelling for hours, I arrived on the Danish island of Aero, only to find every single restaurant was closed. And I hadn’t eaten all day! Thankfully I had my Stroopwaffels to keep me satiated until the next morning. Even now, when I eat them, I get a warm and fuzzy feeling remember that night in Aero. These prepackaged cookies are great for souvenirs too, not just to scarf down in the middle of the night! Dip them in your coffee in the morning to keep memories of your trip alive long after you get home.

Pickled Herring

Pickled Herring is one of the most famous items people will tell you “you must eat,” while in Amsterdam. Before you turn your nose up at it, try thinking of it simply as the “sushi” of the Netherlands. The shallow coastlines around Amsterdam are the preferred breeding ground for schools of tiny herring. Fishermen for hundreds of years have been throwing their nets offshore to bring in piles of delicious fish. Dutch fishermen learned early on that they could salt the fish to preserve it. Not only did this allow the fish to keep in the pantry for longer, but it also meant they could transport it for sale across Europe in the middle ages. A huge financial boom for the Dutch economy.

The best way for newbies to try the dish is as Broodje Haring (or a Herring Sandwich.) The pickled herring is sliced thinly and served on a soft bun covered in pickles and onions. The fish pairs perfectly with the onions and pickles and make for a delicious cold summer sandwich. Of course, some people eat the herring without the bun, but they never forget the pickles and onion!

Bittenballen

Bitterballen are small fried balls of beef ragu. Biting into them releases the oily sweet and salty meat hidden inside a lightly breaded crispy exterior. It is one of the countries favourite snacks and perfectly paired with a pint of beer and a huge side of mustard. The word “bitter” means beer, and “ballen,” well, of course, means balls. So they are, in fact, beer balls. Be careful eating them hot from the kitchen as the molten hot center can burn your mouth if you try to down them too quickly.

Cheese Tasting

While Gouda is the most popular name in cheese in Amsterdam, it is certainly not the only variety. Gouda was first recorded as being manufactured in the Netherlands in 1184! This makes it Europe’s oldest cheese type. One of the reasons that the name “Gouda” is so well known is not just because of the taste. But also because of the town for which it is named after; Gouda. In the middle ages, the town of Gouda was given feudal rights on cheese markets. Feudal right meant that Gouda was the only place in the Netherlands where cheese was allowed to be sold. Essentially giving the city the monopoly on the market. As a result, every farmer would bring their cheese to the Gouda city market square. And once a week, buyers would meet here to haggle on the best prices for cheese from around the Netherlands.

To get some in-depth knowledge about cheeses from the Netherlands, you should try to book a cheese tasting. Skip the so-called “Cheese Museum” as this tourist trap is far from serving up the good stuff. Instead, head to the Fromagerie Abraham Kef. Abraham Kef was a pioneer of cheese in Amsterdam. He opened his shop here in 1953. Ever since he has been serving his customers only the best from local farmers and a smaller selection of international cheeses as well. You can book a cheese tasting to explore a variety of fantastic artisanal cheese served alongside cold cuts, exquisite wines and seasonal beers. All these parties make the taste of the cheese come alive in a different fashion and make for such a better experience.

FEBO

Long before I visited Amsterdam, I had read all about FEBO. While in school I was tasked to write an essay on the history and modern incarnations of vending machines. And while researching, the name “FEBO” came up again and again. So when I finally got the chance to travel to Amsterdam, I was so excited to finally visit this shop.

While FEBO looks like a modern, trendy innovation, it is over 50 years old! The shop opened in 1941 as the first “automat” restaurant in the Netherland. Automats had caught on around the rest of the world, starting in Germany in 1895. Originally named Quisisana, these fast food vending machines could operate 24 hours a day and didn’t need front counter staff. Instead, the food would be loaded into the warming machines from the back kitchen. Then customers only had to place a coin in the slot to open up the machine to access the food within.

To this day, FEBO serves up popular Dutch fried food like krokets, frikandellen, hamburgers, Kaassoufflés, french fries and more. The machines still work just as they did in 1941. The retro look, in addition to the addictive food, is what keeps people coming back! Don’t worry about the food not being fresh, each of the items are thrown away if they are not consumed within the hour.

Kroket

If you are visiting FEBO, make sure you try their Kroket. The kroket is a Dutch delicacy made from meat covered in breadcrumbs and then deep-fried. The most traditional type of meat would be beef or veal, but a popular variety is also shrimp or even chicken satay! Sometimes kroket are served with white bread or buns to sop up the greasy and are best paired with a dollops of mustard!

Kapsalon

Kapsalon was first invented in Rotterdam in 2003, but the cheap and highly filling fast food caught on like wildfire in Amsterdam. It is the perfect post-drinks food to prevent a whopping hangover. This isn’t item haute cuisine, but it’s more than worth checking out as locals swear by it! The dish consists of a layer of french fries covered in melted gouda, topped with gyro meat, green salad, garlic sauce, and sambal! Samal is a variety of hot sauces originally brought back from the former Dutch colony of Indonesia. Sambal is found in almost every fridge in Amsterdam so you need to make sure you get this topping. While Kapsalon is a hefty 1800 calories per dish, it makes for a great sharable meal!

Pannekoek

Pannekoek, or Dutch Pancakes, are one of the most customizable meals you can get in Amsterdam. No matter what you like, there is a pancake out there for you. Even Gluten-free and dairy-free diets are taken into account at places like Pancakes Amsterdam! Pannekoek is nothing like our North American pancakes. They are large, the size of a large dinner plate. The batter is spread thin but not quite as thin as a French crepe. Then you can add everything from apples, syrup, cheese, ham and more into the batter while your Pannenkoek cooks. They can be rolled up to be eaten on the go or served with a fork and knife while relaxing at the table. Although we might think of Pannekoek as breakfast food, these inexpensive and filling pastries hit the spot any time of day!

Dutch Fries

While it’s true that French Fries come from Belgium, the Dutch have perfected it. Dutch fries are thick-cut; short and stubby. They come served in a paper cone and topped with more than just ketchup. The Dutch are obsessed with condiments, and this is a country after my own heart. Half my fridge is just condiments so walking into a fry shop here and being met with a wall of condiments was music to my ears. Everything from mayo, peanut sauce, curry ketchup (my fave) and the previously mentioned sambal hot sauce can be added onto your pile of potatoes.

Appeltaart

Appeltaart is Dutch apple pie and is like American apple pie turned up to eleven! Pie is truly NOT an American invention, and the Dutch have been serving up slices for centuries. The Appeltaart is baked in a springform pan to allow the crust to climb up high up to contain the mountains of thick apple slices. The crust is crumbly and perhaps more like a cake batter than a pie crust. The filling is drier than the North American apple pies. Added to the recipe is lots of cinnamon and always accompanied by a shot of rum or brandy.

The recipe dates back to 1514, and the dessert was so popular it was even portrayed as early as 1626 in still life paintings. The dessert is often served with a large dollop of whipped cream and pairs perfectly with a warm cup of coffee. Be European and eat pie for breakfast!

Brown Cafes

Although this isn’t technically food, your foodie experience in Amsterdam is complete without visiting a Brown Cafes. Bruin cafés, aka brown cafes, are a staple in any Dutch city. The name comes from the fact that these old bars would have walls stained brown from the tobacco smoke. Layered after years and years of smoking patron drinking long into the evening. To hid the smoke-stained, many of these bars covered the walls in dark wood which would hide the smoke and they are always dimly lit. These days, thankfully most bars have banned smoking inside. But the idea of the brown cafes continues today with pubs filled with eclectic vintage furniture, ambient atmosphere and of course, great food and drinks! Brown Cafes are a great place to grab a local draft beer while enjoying the sound of locals chatting amongst themselves.

Jenever

If beer isn’t your thing, then you should ask the bartender for a Jenever. Jenever is a distilled spirit similar to gin, made from juniper berries but has a slightly different flavour as the original recipe included lots of medicinal herbs. Originally it was formulated in pharmacies as a curative drink that was thought to aid in digestion and inflammation. It is one of the country’s signature drinks and comes served inside a cute tulip-shaped glass. Many people love to enjoy a glass of jenever alongside a slide of herring.

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Rijsttafel

Indonesia was once a colony of the Netherlands back in the middle ages. One of the favourite imports Dutch travellers brought back with them was Indonesian spices and cuisine. More and more immigrants from Indonesia came to the Netherlands and over the years they began opening up restaurants. One of the most famous types of meals to eat is Rijsttafel. Rijsttafel means “the rice table.” A pretty good description as the meal consists of various meats, veggies, and fish dishes, all served atop beds of steamed rice. And when I say “a variety,” I mean a HUGE variety. Some restaurants serve over 40 different dishes with their rijsttafel meals. As someone who loves to try a little bit of everything off a menu, this is my dream kinda cuisine. And a nice break from all the fried Dutch food.

Spekkoek

Another dish originally from Indonesia is Spekkoek. Spekkoek has cemented itself into the heart of Dutch people and is one of the best bakery items to pick up and enjoy while picnicking in the park. The dessert is made of multiple layers of cake made with a mixture of Indonesian spices. Each thin layer of cake is separated with another thin layer of cream. The cake’s name comes from the words “spek,” which means fat and “koek” which means cake. So it translates to “fat cake.” This is because the different light and dark layers of cake and cream are thought to resemble a strip of fatty bacon!

I hope this guide gave you lots of ideas of food items to try on your next trip to the Northlands! Make a list and check each item off as you go to make a little game of it as you travel. Let me know in the comments if I missed any of your favourite foods.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post 14 Amazing Dutch Foods you NEED to Try in Amsterdam first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. #1 Damrak Dancing Houses
2. #2 Openbare Bibliotheek Amsterdam Rooftop Terrace
3. #3 Keukenhof
4. #4 Rijksmuseum Bike Under Pass
5. #5 Cuypers Library
6. Alkmaar
7. The Jordaan Neighbourhood
8. Staalmeestersbrug Bridge
9. Bicycle racks
10. Prinsengracht Canal
11. Night on the canal
12. De Negen Straatjes
13. Herengracht
14. Wind Mills
    • Happy Travels, Adventurers.

#1 Damrak Dancing Houses

The ‘Dancing Houses‘ are truly one of the most iconic images from Amsterdam. Everything from postcards to clay magnets, ceramics and textiles are covered in images of these historic houses. Their unique narrow gabled exteriors face out onto the mouth of the majestic Amstel River. The design of these ‘grachtenpandens,‘ otherwise known as “canal houses,” was developed in the 17th century. The dancing houses were built for wealthy merchants who would use the lower levels along the canal as their storage warehouses. Then the upper levels were used as their living spaces. But the design of these tall and narrow houses was not originally an aesthetic choice. Back then taxes were calculated based on the width of the house and not the height. So the answer to building a large house without high taxes as to build upward.

The reason they are now called ‘Dancing Houses’ is because of their uneven and crooked appearance as if they are dancing about. When these homes were constructed on the canal the foundations were built on piles. “Piles” were huge wooden poles that were drilled deep into the wet soil. But over time, the stakes have begun to shift, resulting in this rather quirky and seemingly uneven appearance.

#2 Openbare Bibliotheek Amsterdam Rooftop Terrace

The Openbare Bibliotheek Amsterdam (or OBA) is the coalition of all the public libraries in Amsterdam. And their flagship location can be found just east of Amsterdam Central Station. The OBA Oosterdok or Central Library was built in the early 2000s and is one of the most amazing modern libraries in Europe. The building is spread out over ten floors and in addition to millions of books, it includes an auditorium, an exhibition room, Library Museum, and 2000 parking spaces, just for bicycles!

But the best place to visit for tourists is La Place Restaurant. This is the library’s own rooftop restaurant terrace located on the 7th floor. From up here, you have a magnificent view of the whole of Amsterdam – probably the best panoramic view in the city! And best of all, so many people don’t even know it up here! As it caters to lots of students who come here to study, the restaurant is reasonably priced and even serves alcohol to boot! It’s the ideal place to grab a spot of lunch and enjoy a Dutch beer in the sunshine while looking out over the city.

#3 Keukenhof

The Keukenhof is known as the Garden of Europe, and if you’ve ever had the chance to walk through their green fields, you will truly understand why. From March to mid-May, millions of rainbow-coloured tulips (4.5 million to be exact) bloom over the 32 hectares of gardens inside. They create what can only be described as a blanket of fantastical aromas and ethereal colours which cover the Dutch countryside.

This kind of spectacle is unmissable if you’re visiting Amsterdam. I would even say you should try to plan your trip around the bloom timeline. Tulips are perhaps one of the most famous icons of the city and seeing them in person, in such incredible variety, is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The flowers were first brought to Europe in the 16th century and caught on in popularity in the Netherlands where their hearty stalks grew well despite the inclement weather. Tulips became a status symbol, and in the 17th century, they were worth their weight in gold, literally! A picture with these valuable flowers is still one of the best ways to show off your visit to Amsterdam!

#4 Rijksmuseum Bike Under Pass

The Rijksmuseum is the crowning glory of the museum square district and is home to some of the Netherlands’ greatest artists. The Dutch National Museum originally opened in 1798 in the Hague. Back then, the Hague was the seat of the Netherlands’ government. When the museum moved to Amsterdam, a new design was commissioned by Pierre Cuypers to house the artistic treasures. His richly decorated gothic and Renaissance-inspired structure won over the public and still do this day is seen as one of the greatest architectural marvels in Holland.

Sadly, 20th-century modernizations essentially whitewashed the interiors of their original character. So in 2003, the historic society started on a ten-year-long renovation to restore the museum to its former glory. During the renovation, they also managed to transform the gothic vaulted underpass to allow pedestrians and bikes to anjoy the splendours of the building. This underpass is such a stunning location to see for yourself and if you can avoid the traffic early in the morning it makes for a great photo spot!

#5 Cuypers Library

The Rijksmuseum is a captivating place to visit but for me, the real star of the show is the library! The Cuypers Library inside the Rijksmuseum is one of the most fantastical libraries in the world. Stepping in here feels like walking into a movie set or the Wizarding World of Harry Potter. Stacks and stacks of books climb up the walls surrounded by arching tiled vaults. The library is the largest and oldest historical library in the Netherlands and has been preserved for the ages to feel like a slice of history. Thankfully, the library is open to students, art historians and also the general public! There is no bad spot to take a picture here, as the towering bookshelves make the perfect backdrop.

Alkmaar

If you’re into cheese, then you must head to Alkmaar. Here on Friday (and sometimes Tuesday) mornings, you’ll find the oldest cheese market in Amsterdam, opened since 1365! Alkmaar is only 30 minutes away from Amsterdam on the train and well worth the short journey. Hundreds of wheels of cheese are carried out to sell to both residents and restaurants alike. Cheese haulers carry around their GIANT wheels of cheese for the marvel of the on-looking tourists. But they don’t use their hands. Instead, they carry the mammoth wheels on enormous green skies. Two haulers are tied to either end and look as if they are gliding around the market. Who doesn’t love a photo against the great wall of cheese?!

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The Jordaan Neighbourhood

The Jordaan neighbourhood has quickly become one of the most expensive and luxurious locations in the Netherlands. The streets are home to upscale art galleries, fanciful boutiques, and bustling marketplaces. The area has been popular with the art community for a century, and Rembrandt himself spent the last years of his life in his house on the Rozengracht canal. The backdrop of rows and rows of tightly packed houses makes for the most fantastic patterned backdrop! The houses and canals in this area seem to be less frequented by tourists so it’s a great spot to get away from the crowds.

Staalmeestersbrug Bridge

Standing on the Staalmeestersbrug Bridge you have one of the best views in Amsterdam! The bridge looks out over the canal towards the great Zuiderkerk church. The bridge crosses over the Groenburgwal that connects the Raamgracht with the Amstel. This area of town was once the site of the Amstel fortress in the 16th century. Back then, it was also the textile district where you’d find the city’s cloth weaves, wool markers and clothing markets.

Bicycle racks

Cycling in Amsterdam is the most popular form of transportation in the city. Over 847,000 bicycles are being ridden in the city at one time; that’s 1.91 bicycles per household! To store all these bikes the city had to build colossal bicycle parking lots. You can now find these jumbled over the city. There is nothing more Dutch than a photo amongst the hundreds of bikes that fill the outskirts of the town! Head over to the Bicycle Parking at Central Station to get a bike photo with the magnificent train station in the background!

Prinsengracht Canal

Prinsengracht, or the Prince’s Canal, is one of the three primary historic canals in the city. And being one of Golden Age Canals means having the best real estate. The channel was named after Prince of Orange (an old medieval ruling title). My favourite spot for a photo op on the Prinsengracht is on the bridge parallel to the Amstel River. From here you get a shot looking down at the length of the Prinsengracht. Quirky and charming houseboats float on either side of the water and you can see the repeating bridges crossing far off in the distance.

Night on the canal

Nighttime in Amsterdam means all the canals come alive. The stars, street lights and reflections of the buildings dance on the surface of the water. Nighttime transforms the streets into a new cavalcade of excitement. Fairy lights are strung up around the arches of the brides to highlight the design and keep boaters safe. It feels like there is no particular area that makes the best impression; simply wander around to find where your heart is calling!

De Negen Straatjes

De Negen Straatjes or “Nine Little Streets” is the nickname of an area on the Canal Belt given to, you guessed it, nine important streets. The name of these streets is all very significant. Reestraat, Berenstraat, Wolvenstraat, Huidenstraat and Runstraat are all named after types of work carried out here in centuries past. And this part of town where were they would process animal skins to be turned into various products and clothing. The names of the streets correspond to the types of animals used for skins; deer, bear, wolf and cow. My favourite spot inside the nine streets is standing beside the bridge on Singel street. The view from here is so scenic, and best of all there are some lovely cafes along the side of the canal. Take a seat and enjoy some quality people-watching along with a beer or cup of coffee.

Herengracht

The Gouden Bocht (or the Golden Bend) is located on Herengracht, the second of four extensive waterways on the canal belt. This area is trendy for photographers as it is known for its large, elegant canal houses. Many of the houses here were built for some of the wealthiest and more prestigious inhabitants of Amsterdam. Everyone from regents to mayors and traders lived here. It was like Amsterdam’s Beverly Hills. Having a house here meant you were of the highest status!

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Wind Mills

If you’re only in Amsterdam for a short time, you’ll want a picture with a windmill! Nothing is more iconically Dutch than a windmill. While most of them are found in the countryside, you can still spot a few within the city limits. Just a 30-minute walk from the central station is the old De Gooyer Mill. It is the tallest wooden mill in the Netherlands at 26.6 meters high. The structure dates back to 1609 and it’s amazing to see the industrious nature of these buildings designed even hundreds of years ago!

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There is so much more to see and do in Amsterdam but this short guide is sure to help you find the most iconic locations to document your trip! Let me know in the comment what you’re favourite part of Amsterdam is or where you are most excited to visit.

Happy Travels, Adventurers.

The post Most Instagrammable Places You Need to Visit in Amsterdam first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

About the Rijksmuseum Research Library

The Rijksmuseum Research Library is the definition of “architecture porn.” It is the crown jewel of the Netherlands’ art history collection. Books and ephemera have been collected since 1885 for the group and include catalogues from auctions and exhibitions, periodicals and annual reports, photography, iconography, Indian miniatures, Chinese paintings and bronzes, as well as Japanese prints and sculptures. The library was built along with the rest of the museum in 1885 by Pierre Cuypers in Renaissance and Gothic architectural styles. The decorative embellishments are still seen in the wrought iron railings and swirling staircase.

The museum staff use the library daily, researching some of the more obscure pieces of the museum’s collection or other art history artifacts they received. This isn’t just a beautiful building but a functional one where the museum’s day-to-day operations occur. The library has a buzz to it, much like any office but set in a Gothic, court-like setting.

Opening Hours & Access

The library is open to visitors Monday to Friday, from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM. It is closed on weekends and public holidays. The library is free to visit and does not require a ticket. However, you will need to register in advance to use the reading room.

How To Borrow a Book

If you want to visit the library and take out a book, all you need is a Photo ID to register for a library card. But be aware that some books cannot leave the library. You can check online to see if the book you’re interested in is available for borrowing.

External visitors (tourists) are not permitted to borrow books or periodicals. But you can still browse the collection and read the books while you’re in town. On request, some items can be scanned, so you can take a piece of a book home with you if you are so inclined. They have gone out of their way to ensure this information is available to everyone, and more people can learn more about art and history!

About the Collection

There are about 400,000 volumes in the collection. The online web catalogue contains about 300,000 monographs, 3,400 periodicals and 40,000 art sales catalogues. And there are still about 50,000 art sales catalogues published before 1989 that have yet to be entered into the system.

The Rijksmuseum museum and library just finished undergoing extensive renovations, and as a result, has created a special reading room for visitors. Creative Adventurers are encouraged to come into the reading room to read items from the library since they cannot borrow them. The reading room also has a comprehensive collection of historical reference books. A staff member is on hand inside to answer any questions you might have about the collections or the library itself. This is such a great resource, so don’t miss out on this opportunity if you are interested in art history.

The Rijksmuseum Research Library is a must for anyone interested in art and culture, offering a unique opportunity to explore the collections and research projects of one of the world’s leading museums.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Guide to Visiting and Exploring the Rijksmuseum Research Library, One of the Most Beautiful Libraries in the World first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.