Table Of Contents

1. Map of 2-Days in Bruges Itinerary
2. Where to Stay?
3. History of Bruges
4. Day One in Bruges
5. Day Two in Bruges

Map of 2-Days in Bruges Itinerary

Why Spend at Least 48 Hours in Bruges?

Many people visiting Bruges skip staying the night and instead choose to visit either on a day-trip bus tour or a quick stopover on their way through Belgium. But I strongly encourage you to stay at least one night in the city. This way, you can properly experience the atmosphere of this ancient city, both during the day and at night. The town’s true nature comes alive once the heavy loads of day-tripping tourists disappear in the later afternoon. Locals open their doors, and the city feels more than just a postcard but a living piece of history.

Where to Stay?

Budget Option: Hotel Fevery

Hotel Fevery in Bruges is a cozy, family-run retreat just a short walk from the city center. Known for its warm and homely atmosphere, this charming hotel offers comfortable, spotless rooms and a delicious breakfast. Guests appreciate the friendly, attentive staff who go above and beyond to ensure a pleasant stay, making Hotel Fevery a perfect blend of comfort and convenience for a memorable visit to Bruges.

Mid-Range Option: Boutique Hotel Sablon

Boutique Hotel Sablon is a stylish four-star hotel located just five minutes from Grote Markt square. The hotel offers plush suites with freestanding bathtubs and lounge areas. The decor combines modern style with historic elements, featuring contemporary art and a luxurious Living Room bar. It’s a perfect choice for travelers seeking a balance of comfort and elegance without breaking the bank​.

Luxury Option: Hotel De Orangerie

For a more luxurious stay, consider Hotel De Orangerie. This boutique hotel is set in a beautifully restored 15th-century building along the Den Dijver canal. The hotel offers elegant rooms with antique furnishings and modern amenities. Guests can enjoy high tea in the plush dining room or on the terrace by the canal. The hotel’s central location makes it easy to explore Bruges’ top attractions​.

History of Bruges

Bruges is not just a gothic-looking town; it is a gothic town. The streets are still lined with stones older than perhaps even my home country, and even the most ubiquitous family home looks like a gothic paradise. Bruges is a UNESCO-protected city, and as such, historians ensure that everything remains unchanged from its perpetual state of gothic opulence. Any renovations undertaken to protect buildings from the perils of old age are done with lots of research and employ only old materials to fix or repair any damage.

Bruges first established itself as a settlement in the 9th century. Since Bruges was a city settled on the river, connected to the North Sea, it immediately became a hub for international trade. The name Bruges is derived from the word Bryggia, an old Scandinavian word meaning harbour.  Bruges was northwest Europe’s most important trade centre in the Middle Ages. It specialized in Flemish cloth, one of the most essential products in medieval times, as it was used to sew clothing for everyone from villagers to the royal family. Because the cloth market was exploding nationwide, more and more money poured into the city. The overwhelming wealth meant Bruges could build some of Europe’s most impressive pieces of medieval architecture.

The Growth of the City of Bruges

Throughout the 15th and 16th centuries, Bruges fluctuated under an ever-changing economy. While other European cities were able to expand, Bruges remained a small town. It couldn’t keep up with the worldwide growth and eventually lost its position as the leading trade city to Antwerp, with a population that doubled its own. Bruges slowly fell out of the limelight and disappeared from European high society.

In the 1800s, Bruges became the most impoverished city in Belgium as all trade routes into the city had shut. It is perhaps this period of poverty that we have to thank for the preservation of the city’s historic architecture. There was no money for renovations, expansion or modernization. In the mid-19th century, when the tourism industry started to creep outside the major cities into the countryside, people began discovering this untouched town gem. People from all over fell in love with the historic-artistic culture they found here, left untouched by urbanization.

Day One in Bruges

The Grote Markt

The best place to start your tour is in the Grote Markt, which serves as the centre of Bruges. It seems fitting to begin your journey in the area that brought Bruges all its wealth. The first known marketplace was built here in the 10th century. Later, in the 12th century, a wooden market hall was developed to help house fish, cloth imports, and exports. The square turned from a simple shopping area into a meeting place for jousting tournaments, weddings, royal parades and even executions. The square is still used today as a marketplace despite the passage of time.

In 1996, the square was converted into a pedestrian zone where horse-drawn carriages and bicycles were the only modes of transportation allowed. Tourists can wander and gaze up at the buildings around them without fear of being hit by a car. And gaze up, you will!

Bruges Belfy

Looming over Markt Square stands the Belfry Tower atop the infamous Cloth Hall. The Belfry was built in 1240 but needed to be rebuilt in 1280 after a fire ravaged the first building. If the octagonal-shaped top looks slightly unfinished, you’d be correct in thinking so. The tower was once topped with a great spire. There were various spires, but each was the victim of lightning strikes, reducing them all to ash. There is a famous poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow which goes, “In the marketplace of Bruges stands the Belfry old and brown; Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilt. Still, it watches o’er the town.”

Bell in the Belfry

In the medieval ages, the Belfry’s bells were the only indicator citizens had to tell the start of the workday, signal for fire, or even begin a festival or event. In the 16th century, a 35-set carillon was installed in the tower. A carillon is a set of bells that could be played using a keyboard below the tower, creating a more musical sound than a few single bells rung from ropes ever could.

You can still climb the 366 steps to the top of the tower, as patrolmen once did, to look out for fires that could have destroyed this incredible city. The view from the top is unequalled and worth the time and effort.

“French” Fries in Bruges

At the bottom of the Belfry Tower is a local French Fry vendor who serves some of the most delicious Belgian fries. There are ongoing disputes over the term “french fries” and its origin. The Belgians insist it was them. The story goes that when American armies were stationed in Belgium, the Flemish military served them one of their favourite (and inexpensive) meals—fried potato strips.

The American army LOVED them and took the recipe back home. They called them french fries since French was the local language in Belgium then, and the Americans assumed they were in France. While the French aren’t known for selling fries on the street, the Belgians have perfected the snack on the go. They serve them alongside mustard and mayonnaise dipping sauce, an oddly delicious side dish that is the perfect thing to eat to keep you going throughout your tour.

While chowing down on your snack, take a moment to study the brightly coloured buildings surrounding that square. Each one is topped with iconic crow-stepped gables, which have become the quintessential characteristic of Bruges. 

Statue of Jan Breydel and Pierter de Conick

Take a seat in the centre of the square, beneath the grand statue of Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck. These two men are local heroes known for leading the uprising against the invading French in 1302 and keeping Bruges a part of Belgium.

Provincial Hof

Across from the statue is the Provincial Hof or Provincial Court. The building now houses the government of West Flander and a local post office, but hundreds of years ago, it was home to the largest port in Bruges. Initially built in 1294, it was demolished in 1787 and rebuilt in a neogothic style reminiscent of its original Gothic architecture. One of the most iconic parts of its design is the bright red dormer windows, which pop out of the stone grey roof.

Hendrik and Gustaaf Pickery designed all the interior decorations; intricate stained glass windows and exquisite ironwork cover the rooms like wild vines. The statues and murals within depict scenes of famous personalities from West Flanders and provide a visual history of the building of their great city.

Chocolatier Dumon

Dumon Chocolates are among the most popular souvenirs people bring home from Bruges. Belgium is known worldwide for its chocolate creations, and Dumon has found a way to perfect the art. Established in 1992, this family-run business expanded around Belgium, but their first family-run shop was in Bruges.

As you open the door, you are overwhelmed with melting chocolate’s sweet and slightly bitter scent. The tiny shop is almost no wider than arm’s length but is charmingly cluttered. Chocolates glisten behind glass cabinets, and you can’t help but start to drool. While there are no labels, the kind employees (all family members) will lovingly tell you about all the different kinds of chocolate and prepare a customized box with all your favourites. They speak English in addition to French and Belgian, but if you can’t communicate, you can’t go wrong with anything inside.

Hof Bladelin

Walking past Dumon, along the narrow streets and alleyways, you come upon Hof Bladelin. Hof Bladelin was once an aristocratic mansion, which has now been converted into a home for the elderly and a small museum. The Hof Bladelin was initially built in 1451 as the house of Pieter Bladelin and his wife, Margaret of Vagewierre. Pieter was the counsellor and treasurer for Philip the Good, the Duke of Burgundy.

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At the time, he was one of the wealthiest men in Bruges and wanted to build a house, which reflected his enormous wealth. The Bladelins had no children, and after their death, the house came up for auction in 1472. It was purchased by the Medicis, a powerful Florentine banking family known for coveting the most beautiful pieces of art and architecture from the world’s greatest artists.

The Hof Bladelin has the architectural design of a Gothic castle. The Renaissance courtyard was designed in Italian and added to the building by the Medici family. There are still stone medallion portraits of Lorenzo de Medici and his wife in the courtyard. The ribbed vaulted ceiling in the interiors has some unique corbels adorned with scenes depicting Bladelin’s duties and the life of St. Alphege of Canterbury.

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The Poortersloge

The Poortersloge, or Burgher’s Lodge, is an exemplary model of Gothic architecture in Bruges. It was built at the end of the 14th century and served as a meeting place for the burghers (town or city’s citizens). One can admire its magnificent façade, decorated with stone figures; one is of the legendary bear, Beertje van de Logie, dated 1417. In the past, banquets and festivities were held here; nowadays, the building contains historical documents.

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Cambrius

If you’re feeling peckish, stop off at the Cambrinus pub. The building oozes history. The original pub was built here in 1699, and despite a few updates, much of the place remains the same. When you arrive, the waiter will bring you a book the size of a dictionary with over 400 varieties of beer listed and vivid descriptions in various languages.

There truly is something for everyone. In addition to the best beer list in the country, their traditional Brugian food is also to die for. The rabbit stew is my favourite and will warm you up from the inside out if you are travelling in any of the colder months.

Burg Square

After lunch, make your way over to Burg Square. This square is one of the city’s most stunningly medieval parts. Architectural gems from the Gothic era to the Renaissance and the Neo-Classical Revival surround it from all sides.

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Burg Town Hall

Burg Town Hall, or “Stadhuis,” is the oldest building in the square. It was built in 1376 in a truly Gothic fashion. Standing between the bright red-painted windowsills are statues of men from the Court of Flanders intermingled with biblical figures. Each one looked down at the townspeople below, guiding them in their daily lives.

Sandwiched between the Town Hall is the Palace of the Liberty, which once served as the Old Court House for over 200 years. Its brilliant white painted facade with gold trim is decorated like a cake, with the golden Lady of Justice statue as the cherry on top. 

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Basilica of the Holy Blood

The Basilica of the Holy Blood stands in the corner of the square, tucked away so tightly it almost seems to disappear. This 14th-century church holds one essential item, a vial of “Holy Blood,” believed to be drops of blood and water washed from the body of Christ. 

Behind its dark, richly decorated facade hides an even more ornamental interior. The interior houses two chapels, each opposite the other. The upper chapel is the crown jewel of West Flanders in high Gothic style. From floor to ceiling, there are darkly painted murals depicting the Holy Trinity and various scenes of the journey of the Holy Blood Relic to Bruges. Vividly painted stained glass windows provide the only natural light inside the chapel. Little modern lighting has been installed inside to ensure the murals don’t fade with time.

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Heilig-Bloedbasiliek

The Holy Blood relic is embedded in a rock-crystal vial and placed inside a glass cylinder framed with two golden crowns. It is only shown to the public on certain days of the week, so check the schedule if you’re making a pilgrimage just to see it. It is housed inside a silver tabernacle with a picture of the Lamb of God on the front when it is not displayed. In recent years, the validity of the vial has come under question, and investigations have shown that it was nothing more than a Byzantine perfume bottle from Constantinople. But to those who believe, no amount of science can deter them.

The lower chapel is a simple Romanesque church from the 12th century, the last Romanesque church in all of West Flanders. This chapel has been virtually unchanged since it was first built. The two chapels are connected, but a large brick staircase was built in 1533 in the Renaissance style, which was subsequently destroyed during the French WWII occupation but rebuilt in the 19th century.

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Vismarkt

Across the bridge from Burg Square is the Vismarkt, or old Fish Market. The fish market was once located in Markt Square, but the smell of the fish was so intense that people around the square complained, so it was moved further east. The covered stone arcade was built in 1821. The market is only open from Wednesday to Saturday in the early morning, but you can visit the iconic stone structure any time of the day.

Dijver Canal

From the Fish Market, walk west along the Dijver Canal. The canal’s passageway from the fish market to Nieuwstraat is a classical view of Bruges you must see for yourself. Various restaurants along the canal are reasonably touristy but provide one of Bruges’s most beautiful scenes. If you just want to hop into one of their patios for a drink, I think the overpriced beer is well worth the view.

De Garre

To end your first day in Bruges, head to De Garre bar, nestled in a tiny alleyway. De Garre is a hidden gem in Bruges renowned for its exceptional house beer, the Tripel van De Garre. This robust and flavorful tripel, brewed exclusively for the pub, is a must-try for any beer enthusiast. The cozy and intimate atmosphere of De Garre, combined with its rich wooden decor, offers a perfect setting to enjoy this unique brew. The pub also serves a variety of other Belgian beers, making it an ideal spot to unwind and savour the local beer culture after a day of exploring the city​.

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Day Two in Bruges

Groeninge Museum

To start our second day in Bruges, we will head to the famous Groeninge Museum. The Groeninge Museum is an essential stop on your tour of Bruges as it gives you an introduction to Brugian art across six centuries. 

The Primitive Flemish style of painting is featured throughout the walls of museums. Flemish art isn’t classically considered exceedingly masterful since it sometimes seems slightly grotesque, raw, and explicit. Flemish painters always tried to emulate their Italian counterparts to achieve a dynamic perspective, but they didn’t have the technical skills to realize these effects. The result is images that appear almost warped but whose expressions are so genuine they leave a lasting impression on the people who view them. 

Arents House Courtyard

Across from the Groeninge Museum, you’ll find the Arents House. Arents House was once an ancient manor belonging to the noble Arents family. It now hosts an extensive collection of paintings by the British artist Frank Brangwyn. While it might be worth a visit on a more extended tour to Bruges, today, we are merely exploring its courtyard. The small yard between the two medieval houses is the perfect place to stop and pause. Listen to the sounds of cobblestones underfoot.

The trickle of water flows down the canal. From Arents Court, you have one of the most splendid views of the Church of Our Lady’s tower. If you’re lucky, you’ll hear the church bell rings across the street and the soft crowing of birds perched above. Four exciting sculptures by artist Rik Poot surround the courtyard, representing the “Four Apocalyptic Knights,” which are a great compliment to the artistic surroundings.

Bonifacius Bridge

Before heading to the Church of Our Lady, you’ll pass across the Bonifacius Bridge. Despite only dating from 1910, it is one of the most beautiful bridges in Bruges. The tightly interlaced cobblestones are red brick archways that provide the perfect frame for the church towers behind them. Standing on the bridge, you can watch tourists paddle up and down the canal.

The Church of Our Lady of Bruges

All of the churches in Bruges are enormous. They seem to tower over the tiny houses below. The Church of Our Lady’s tower is over 122 meters high, the highest point in Bruges and the world’s second tallest brickwork tower. Because the church took over two centuries to build, it combines various evolutions of Gothic architecture with a Baroque interior.

While the interior might not be as grand as its exterior, it is still worth poking your head inside. The central organ is small but opulent, hiding behind the high altar screen. A few dozen simple chairs provide seating for the small but dedicated congregation. The altar screen is unique both in colouring and design. Its white and green coloured marble are highlighted with splashes of gold leafing. Along the nave are columns dotted with reliefs of various influential saints. A sizeable wooden pulpit stands at attention on the right side of the nave; dozens of beautifully carved cherubs hang off the sides, clinging to books with golden scriptures written for the people below to read.

Tombs of Bruges Royalty

Behind the high altar is the resting place of two of Bruges’ most famous residents. The golden tombs of Charles the Bold and the Duchess Mary of Burgundy lie in quiet repose beneath a beautiful tryptic. The elaborately designed tombs are worth looking at, so don’t miss touring the back half of the church.

The crown jewel of this church is the white marble sculpture of the Madonna and Child, created by Michelangelo in 1504. Over the years, the statue has been stolen by foreign invaders, but those dedicated to preserving its place in Bruges have always managed to bring it back home. Although this sculpture doesn’t have the same impact as his Pieta in Rome, the sadness on Madonna’s face reflects her knowledge that this little boy will grow up only to die for the sins of his people.

Gruuthuse Hof

Away from the Church of Our Lady is the Gruuthuse Hof, a small but historic house adorably sandwiched between two major streets. Now a restaurant, the Gruuthuse Hof is one of the oldest residences in Bruges. While in one of the prime locations for tourists, the restaurant keeps a simple, traditional menu catering to locals and tourists alike. With only 28 seats inside and 12 on the patio, the place remains intimate despite its popularity over the eras. If you can find a table, it’s worth stopping in for the featured meal of the day.

St. Salvator’s Cathedral

Up from the Gruuthuse Hof is St. Salvator’s Cathedral. It is the oldest parish church in Bruges, with parts dating back to the 10th century. But the original design was much less grandiose than the current incarnation. In 1834, after Belgium’s independence, St. Salvator’s was given the status of a cathedral, and the meagre church had to be extensively renovated to match its new high status as a cathedral. 

The architect of the new cathedral was William Chantrell, an English architect greatly influenced by the resurgence of Neo-Romanesque architecture. Neo-Romanesque buildings feature thick walls, round arches, sturdy pillars, barrel vaults, large towers, and decorative arcades. This church stands out because most of Bruges is so powerfully Gothic.

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St. Salvator’s Cathedral Interior

The neo-Gothic interior of the church is relatively plain but is accented with stunning embroidered tapestries from the 18th century. These antiquated works of art were made in Brussels by Jasper van der Borcht and feature astounding scenes from the Bible, all created with needles and thread.

To the left of the nave, the pulpit is a stunning example of Louis XVI’s designs. Louis XVI’s design was predominantly produced in France and exemplified the last phase of Rococo design. The style focused on natural forms and dramatic embellishments.

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Old St. John’s Hospital

Walking back down Mariastraat, we come upon Old St. John’s Hospital, now the Memling Museum. Before becoming a museum, it was used as a hospital for the sick and dying, administered by nuns and priests. Inside are many relics and six paintings by a 15th-century painter and Bruges resident, Hans Memling. One of the highlights inside is the Shrine to St. Ursula. Carved into a gilded wooden reliquary in the shape of the church are six panels which tell the story of St. Ursula’s sainthood, painted by Memling himself. The work was commissioned by the Hospital of St. John and is one of the most exquisite pieces of religious art I’ve seen close up. The three-dimensional details and rich colours are remarkable. 

De Vos Almshouse

Further south, away from the central part of the city, we will come across the “De Vos Almshouse.” This small grouping of little white houses, facing a lush green herb and flower garden, once housed the poor, widows and the elderly. The houses were purchased by a wealthy Brugian merchant who loved his city and wanted to give back to the less fortunate.

Each home was donated to a specific guild (mason’s guild, blacksmith, coopers, etc.) and would provide housing for members of that guild when they became too old to work, fell ill or lost their jobs. You might notice how none of the houses have windows facing the street – this was because, at the time of their construction, a tax was improvised for any street-facing window.

Beguinage

Before our final destination, stop into the Beguinage’ De Wijngaard’ or Vineyard. This grouping of white houses with terracotta roofs is one of Bruges’s most peaceful places to rest your weary feet. So far from the town centre, this site is little toured by day-tripping tourists.

Since 1245, the Bruges beguine sisterhood has lived here, and in 1937, it became a monastery for the Benedictine sisters. To enter the Beguinage, you first pass through a large arched entrance gate built in 1776. Inside, you find houses dating from the 15th to 19th centuries.

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The Minnewater

The Minnewater, or Lake of Love, is one of the most beloved retreats for the remaining residents of Bruges. Swans float up and down the picturesque canals, and lovers roam under the densely forested pathways, arm in arm.

Poertorenpark

Poertorenpark, or Gunpowder Tower Park, is a serene spot near the picturesque Lake of Love in Bruges. The park features a striking round tower, historically used to store gunpowder, which reminds of the city’s medieval past. Surrounded by lush greenery and peaceful walking paths, Poertorenpark offers a tranquil escape from the bustling city center. Visitors can enjoy a leisurely stroll, relax on the benches, and take in the scenic views of the tower and the surrounding landscape, making it an ideal location for a quiet afternoon​.

Huisbrouwerij De Halve Maan

To end your last day in Bruges, head to Huisbrouwerij De Halve Maan. This historic brewery is known for its rich brewing tradition, which dates back to 1856. This family-run brewery has produced some of Belgium’s most beloved beers for generations, including the renowned Brugse Zot and Straffe Hendrik. Visitors to De Halve Maan can enjoy guided tours that offer insights into the brewing process, the brewery’s history, and the unique beer pipeline that runs under the streets of Bruges, transporting beer from the brewery to the bottling plant outside the city.

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The tour concludes with a tasting session, allowing guests to savour the distinct flavours of De Halve Maan’s craft beers while enjoying panoramic views of Bruges from the brewery’s terrace. The best way to soak in the last scenic views of the city.

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Bruges is a stunning city with a unique history, culture, and beauty blend. With the help of this 2-day itinerary, you can make the most of your time in Bruges and experience all this charming city has to offer. From exploring the stunning architecture and picturesque canals to sampling delicious Belgian chocolates and local beers, there’s something for everyone in Bruges.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post How to Spend the Perfect 48 Hours in Bruges, Best 2-Day Itinerary [UPDATED 2024] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

But if you decide to stay a few nights you’ll be treated to one of the most charming towns where you can take more time to dig into the history and secrets of this lovely city. There are lots of amazing museums to explore so don’t be shy about deciding to extend your stay. Verona is also an art lovers’ dream. The city is constantly featuring a revolving door of art exhibitions. There are heritage fairs, food festivals, operas and music galas as well as near-constant performances in their ancient arena. Truly something for everyone!

Table Of Contents

1. How To Get There
2. History of Verona Italy
3. Map of Walking Tour
4. Castelvecchio Bridge
5. Castelvecchio
6. Arco dei Gavi
7. Palazzo Canossa
8. Basilica di San Lorenzo
9. Porta Borsari
10. Piazza Bra
11. Verona Arena
12. Casa de Giulietta
13. Piazza delle Erbe
14. The Torre dei Lamberti
15. Arco della Costa
16. Piazza dei Signori
17. Palazzo della Ragione
18. Dante Alighieri
19. Palace of the Podestà
20. Palace of Cansignorio
21. Loggia del Consiglio
22. Church of Saint Mary Antica
23. Scaliger Tombs
24. Casa di Romeo
25. Basilica of Santa Anastasia
26. Piazzetta Bra Molinari

How To Get There

If you’re visiting Venice, Milan or Florence, Verona is only a short train ride away. Most of the major high-speed trains stop in Verona if you’re coming in from a big city. But if you are taking the train from a small town along the way, Versona station is also serviced by many local, regional trains.

If you’d instead like to take the bus, there are plenty of options that even run internationally, making stops in Verona.

If you have rented a car, you can reach Verona’s from highway A4 or A22. There are free parking areas in the Porta Palio Parking lot and the Guardini Parking Lot to park. You can also park your car at the tourist bus terminal for free. Paid parking areas can be found along Via M. Bentegodi. It’s always best to avoid driving right into the city unless you have a hotel stay booked and can park in the hotel. Not only is driving in the city’s inner centre difficult, often tourist cars are banned from entering certain parts of the city. So be warned. I always find it’s much less stressful to park away from the city center and enjoy a leisurely walk into town.

History of Verona Italy

What might surprise some people about their visit to Verona is how ancient the city is. Verona became a Roman colony in 89 BC. Verona was one of the more famous cities in the empire. Located at the intersections of various main trade routes and roads, it was a hub for business. Verona was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to the ancient Roman monuments in the city centre. The city suffered a massive earthquake in 1117, which destroyed much of the city’s original Medieval architecture. It was replaced by Romanesque buildings, many of which you can still see today.

Shakespeare in Verona

Shakespeare set two of his plays in the city of Verona; Romeo and Juliet and The Two Gentlemen of Verona. One can only imagine that the writer had an affinity for the town as it features so heavily in his plays. Walking the streets, it’s impossible not to imagine Shakespeare himself walking on these very cobblestones. No doubt daydreaming in his head of his next grand production.

Map of Walking Tour

About this Self-Guided Walking Tour of Verona

This walk takes you across the city of Verona, from the west bridge to the east hillside. The tour is doable in one full day. But if you want to take it at a more leisurely pace, and allow yourself time for shopping or popping inside some of the museums, you can easily split it up into two days. Staying overnight in Verona, or just outside the city in one of their charming B&Bs is an excellent idea since the city clears out of the day-trippers and feels more laidback and quiet at night.

Accessibility

Like many places in Italy, the sidewalks in Verona are mostly narrow and made of uneven cobblestones. Scooters will frequently whip around corners out of nowhere, something all travellers need to be aware of. If you’re travelling in a wheelchair, this walk is still relatively doable. The only issue is the staircase at the end of the tour. In this case, you can finish the walk one step ahead of the itinerary. If you have a mobility aid or are someone who needs to take things at a more leisurely pace, seek the advice from above. It’s great to split the tour into different bits to break up the day. There is nothing better than taking a break at a cafe for an espresso, or a refreshing Aperol spritz to sip on while sitting in the Piazza.

Castelvecchio Bridge

Our tour starts on the Castelvecchio Bridge, which spans the great Adige River. This bridge looks so unique, due to its exceptional design. Unlike most bridges that have low barriers to allow unobstructed views across the city, this bridge has large, imposing walls. It was built in 1354 by Cangrande II della Scala. Cangrande II della Scala was the brutal Lord of Verona from 1351 until he died in 1359. He had the bridge explicitly constructed to escape the city in the event of a rebellion. And with the nickname, “Raging Dog,” Scala wasn’t particularly popular with his people or court. The thick brick walls he had hoped would protect him from assassins on his escape from the city.

History of the Castelvecchio Bridge

The original bridge stood for hundreds of years untouched by wars or attacks. It remained steadfast until 1945 when it was destroyed by retreating German troops. Thankfully it was restored to its original appearance in 1949. 

The red-bricked crenellated parapets are iconic of the city of Verona. You can see this design element all over town. This design was called the Ghibelline or the swallowtail battlement. The name comes from the V-shaped notches in the merlon’s tops, which give it the appearance of a bird’s tail. But the shape wasn’t just an aesthetic choice. The crenellations were used to protect the archer in battle. The archer would have a clear shot at the attackers outside the battlements while he remained protected. Stop inside the various lookout points along the bridge as they not only provide beautiful views, but the old keystones on the arches have lovely carvings, and some are from the original 14th-century bridge.

Castelvecchio

Continue along the bridge till you reach the Corso Cavour. Turn left and walk along the Corso. On the left-hand side, you’ll side the exterior of the Castelvecchio. This is the old Medieval fortress built in 1354. The fort was used to house the military and their arsenal from the 1400s to the 1700s. In the 1700s, it was used as the Venetian military academy. There it remained until 1925 when the building was transformed into a museum. Note the same brickwork seen here along the fortress walls, which is continued from the design of the Vecchio bridge.

Arco dei Gavi

Just past the fortress, take a minute to walk towards the river on your left, where you’ll find the imposing white limestone Arco dei Gavi. The Arco dei Gavi is a triumphal arch commissioned to architect L. Vitruvius Cerdo in the 1st century AD. It was built likely during the reign of Tiberius. This large archway once served as the original entrance to the city. Triumphal arches are synonymous with the Roman period. They marked not only the door to the city but were also built in honour of an important event. This could be the death or birth of a significant person or the construction of an essential trade route, which was highly celebrated by the Romans. 

The original archway wasn’t located in this exact spot. In 1805 the original arch was severely damaged due to structural problems and needed to be demolished. Thankfully, enough of the stone was preserved so that in 1932 it could be rebuilt. It was then moved to this more secure location where it can be admired by modern by tourists.

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Palazzo Canossa

Continuing along the Corso, we shortly come upon the Romanquesue Palazzo Canossa. The Palazzo was designed in 1527 by Michele Sanmicheli in the Mannerist style. Mannerism went against the idea of symmetry and balance, which were the primary characteristics of the previous Renaissance era. Mannerists love to play with space and its relationship with buildings. On the ground floor, there are two sets of windows on either side, centred around a dark portico, which runs parallel to the street. The upper floors of the manor have three different sets of windows and varying heights. Study the roof as it features a gallery of mythological creatures craning their heads over the side, to look at the people below.

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Basilica di San Lorenzo

Hidden through a small, almost unassuming archway along the street is the Basilica of San Lorenzo. The pointed-arched doorway is topped with a statue of San Lorenzo. On either side of the columns are carvings of climbing flowers. This Romanesque church dates all the way back to 1177. The striped bands of alternating brick and stone along the columns create a mesmerizing pattern. They almost seem to swallow you up as you walk inside. Since the church is so hidden away, this place is often tremendously sombre and a great spot to come for a moment of solitude away from the crowds.

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Porta Borsari

At the end of the Corso Cavour, just beyond the intersection of Via Antoni Cantore, is the ancient Porta Borsari. This is another one of Verona’s Roman monuments. The gate was used to protect the city and was built in the first century AD. Twelve simple windows carved into the limestone, atop the double-arched gateway, mark the entry into this district of Verona. The original name of the gate was Porta Iovia, as it was located near a small temple dedicated to Jupiter lustralis. “Borsari” refers to the bursarii, which were the duties collected from goods that entered and exited the city. 

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Via Antonio Cantore

From here, we’re heading back down towards the centre of town. While the most direct and accessible route to the Roman Amphiteatre is along Via Guglielmo Oberdan, I prefer to take the scenic route. Walk along Via Antonio Cantore and turn down Via Alberto Mario. These two streets are much more quaint and made up mostly of small houses and apartment complexes. They feel like the Verona of days long past, without as many tourist shops. Take a moment to study the window boxes, which are almost always overflowing in flowers in the spring and summertime.

Piazza Bra

As you come out of the side streets, you’ll exit on the Piazza Bra. If you follow my instructions and started this tour early in the morning, you’ll have a chance to walk into the square without being mobbed with tourists. The Piazza Bra is the largest square in Verona and features some of the most iconic sights in the city. Surrounding the plaza are dozens of cafes and restaurants, but look above them to study the elegant windows and buildings they are located inside—each one a different colour and slightly different design. The square is a beautiful place to stop and have a cup of coffee. Although you pay a premium for the location, its well worth it for the view.

If you’re a tourist on a budget, this is a magnificent place to stop. Bring a little picnic and sit in the large park located in the Piazza. There are many benches to relax on and soak in the scenery. The park is decorated with cedar and pine trees surrounding the Alps’ fountains. In the center of the basin, which dominates the park, is a bronze statue of Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of Italy. 

Verona Arena

The most imposing structure on the square is the ancient Roman Arena. If you’ve been to Rome and seen their arena, you’ll be surprised at how well preserved the one in Verona actually is. The arena in Rome no longer has a foundation and therefore is unusable. But the stadium here in Verona is almost immaculately preserved and still in use today! It serves as the venue for local and international opera performances, concerts and plays. This makes the Verona Arena feel more alive and not just a relic of the past.

History of the Verona Arena

This Roman amphitheatre was built in 30 A.D. using white and pink limestone from Valpolicella. Originally it was used to host gladiator games, jousts, and trials. Gladiators were generally slaves, who were trained to fight for the entertainment of locals and nobles alike. They would face-off inside the arena, and competitions included everything from fights to the death, battles against ferocious animals to simple displays of athletic skills.

There are over 25,000 seats throughout the arena up the 44 tiers of marbled benches. Operas started to be performed here in the 20th century when the famous opera tenor Giovanni Zenatello used the stage to practice with friends and realized how amazing the acoustics were! If there is a performance on while you’re visiting, don’t miss seeing it as the acoustics inside this ancient building are surprisingly amazing!

Palazzo Barbieri

Just in front of the arena is the cream yellow collanades of the Palazzo Barbieri. The Palazzo Barbieri is home to Verona’s city council. It was initially built in 1836 as a military base by engineer Guiseppe Barbieri (for whom the building is named after). The palazzo is made in a neo-classical style. During WWII, the Austrian used the building as one of their bases of operations. Because of this, it was severely damaged in the war, and reconstruction wasn’t completed until 1950.

Portoni della Brà

Past the Palazzo, head west along Via degli Alpini until you reach the Portoni della Bra. This grandiose gate is from the 3rd-century AD and was one another Roman gateway to Verona. There is an inscription on the brickworks, which dates to 245 AD with the name ‘Colonia Verona Augusta‘ carved onto the placard. This would have been the entry ancient visitors would also have travelled through to arrive inside this great city. The materials used to create the great gate were Veronese marble and red brick. Once more, we see that crenellated walkway at the top of the archway. A clock sits in the center of the two arches, but this was added in 1872. 

Via Giuseppe Mazzini

Walking back northwards, head up the Via Giuseppe Mazzini. Via Giuseppe Mazzini is the most prestigious shopping street in Verona. This narrow passageway is where you’ll find some of the biggest international brands. Even though they aren’t very unique stores, it’s exciting to see these modern labels crowded into this rather small, ancient space.

Casa de Giulietta

Make your way east along the Via Anfiteatro and Via Stella until you reach Via Giuseppe Mazzini. Turn left and walk until you find the fabled Casa de Giulietta or House of Juliet. This 13th-century house once belonged to the Capello family (which sounds an awful lot like Capulet family). The dwelling is one of the oldest in Verona. Juliet Capulet, along with her lover Romeo, were fictional characters.

Still, this residence is an excellent representation of wealthy families’ living quarters during the time in which Shakespeare set the play. But there is mounting evidence that two rival families did, in fact, perhaps exist here in Verona. Writer Dante himself wrote a poem about the fabled Ghibelline and Guelph feuding families.

On the way into the house, you’ll see the walls of the arched passageway covered in notes. There are so many pieces of paper, the brick wall almost disappears. These are romantic wishes, left by visitors wishing for their own star crossed love.

The building on its own is a beautiful example of Gothic architecture from the 1300s. Once more here, we see the walls topped with those Ghibelline battlements in red brickwork.

Juliet Balcony

Walking into the courtyard, one of the first things people will look at is the famed balcony. This is where the star crossed sweethearts could have indeed fallen in love. But, this balcony is not a part of the original structure. It was added in the 20th century to jump on the Romeo and Juliet tourist train. The balcony was created by piecing together elements of a 17th-century sarcophagus and attaching it to the wall! Rather morbid for one of the romantic icons of the city, don’t you think?

In the center of the courtyard is a bronze statue of Juliette. While the sculpture was added in the 20th century in honour of the famous play set in Verona, she is still a favourite for visitors. Locals claim that if you rub her right breast, you’ll find love and gain fertility! So obviously the right breast is rather more shiny than the left!

Casa Di Giulietta Museum

You can walk into the courtyard for free, but to get inside the house, you must pay admission. This is because the house itself is a small museum featuring images and objects from the time of Romeo and Juliet. The museum can get really crowded, but if you’re a massive fan of this play, it’s an exciting place to explore. You get a sense of the kind of interiors that Roman and Juliet would have lived in. Since this museum gets so busy during the busy summer months, if you can’t get inside, don’t press yourself and simply come back later in the day or early the next morning. It’s not worth getting stressed out over.

Piazza delle Erbe

Continuing along the street outside the Casa di Giulietta until you come upon the gorgeous Piazza Delle Erbe. Piazza Delle Erbe means Square of the Herbs. On the southern side, you’ll see the Casa de Mercanti or House of the Merchants.

This area was once occupied by the original Roman forum. Here, Romans would gather to sell goods, like herbs well as fruits, vegetables and more. Even today, you can still find the square busy with merchants selling everything from food to souvenirs. 

The square now features merchants selling mainly souvenirs for the many tourists who frequent the area. But despite the samey items being sold, the sellers still bring a lively atmosphere to the ancient plaza.

The Torre dei Lamberti

Overlooking the square is the Tower Lamberti, the tallest building in Verona. The Torre Lamberti was built in 1172. However, the structure had to be rebuilt in the 15th century after being hit by lightning. You can see the newer materials on the exterior marked by the variations in the brickwork. The massive clock on the surface was also added in 1779.

Bell Tower

Inside the tower are two large bells; the ‘Marangona‘ signals the various hours of the day. There is also a larger bell, called the ‘Rengo‘ used to call the population to arms or summon the city council. Skip the ride up the tower as it’s pretty expensive, and we’ll get another view across the city later in the tour.

Domus Mercatorum

Across from the tower is the Domus Mercatorum or Casa dei Mercanti. This was the old home of the merchants guild, built in 1210. It was initially made out of nothing but wood. In 1301 it was reconstructed by a wealthy wool trader, Alberto I della Scala, who remade it in stone, which was much more long-lasting. The Scala family eventually became one of Verona’s most powerful families. The Scala acted as judges and presiding over legal issues relating to merchants and manufacturers of Verona. I love the exterior of this building. The red brick is inlaid with limestone carvings and beautiful mullioned windows and crenellated parapets.

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Fontana Madonna Verona

In the center of this long square is a beautiful and delicate fountain topped with Verona’s Madonna. This 14th-century fountain’s sculpture on top actually dates all the way back to 380 AD! The Madonna holds a scroll in her hands. On this, the ancient seal of Verona is written, “est iusti latrix urbs hec et laudis” or “this city is the bearer of justice and lover of praise.”

Mazzanti Houses

Behind the Madonna fountain, is the gorgeous frescoed exterior of the Mazzanti houses. These residences were built in the 13th century for the Scala family. Later in the 1500s, when they sold to new owners, they were renovated for the modern era. It was right here, in front of his own house, that Mastino della Scala was ambushed and murdered in 1277. After this attack, the family decided to move and sold their homes to the wealthy Mazzanti family, another group of merchants.

Mazzanti Frescos

The frescos on the exterior were made in the 16th century by painted Alberto Cavalli. Cavalli has studied under Giulio Roman, who used the same techniques as Michelangelo. All these artists share in the use of Mannerism in their artworks. The frescoes depict mythological and allegorical scenes. Each painting is still surprisingly vibrant after being exposed to the elements outdoors for over 500 years. 

In the 16th century, houses in Verona were painted like this as decorating the exterior with paint cost much less than architectural sculpture. But frescoes were nonetheless as impressive. Visitors to Verona called the city “urbs picta” which meant the painted city. Although very little of these frescoes remain, this gives you an idea of what it once looked like.

Take a Break

The Piazza de Erbe is one of Verona’s most picturesque places to stop and grab a drink. An Aperol Spritz is the drink of choice for most diners. Grab a table outside and soak in the views of the multicoloured buildings and balconies overlooking the square.

Column of San Marco

At the end of the square, you’ll find the large Column of San Marco. The marble column features the winged lion of San Marco, the symbol of Venice. Verona was once under the imperial rule of Venice. As such, there are still symbols of this around Verona today. The Colonna di San Marco was erected in 1523, and sculpted in immaculate white marble. The carving of a lion on the top is a 19th-century addition. The original sculpture which stood here was destroyed in 1797 when the Venetian Republic was dismantled. A new lion was added back in 1866 once tensions around the entire event died down.

Palazzo Maffei

Facing onto the square is the luxurious Palazzo Maffei. This baroque building is covered in statues of Roman gods looking out at the pedestrians on the plaza. The top of the building is host to six statues of divinities: Hercules, Jupiter, Venus, Mercury, Apollo and Minerva. Hercules’ statuette looks slightly different from the rest. This is because Hercules was stolen from the Roman Capitoline Hill and placed onto the facade of the house! It hundreds of years older than the other baroque statues and is easily identifiable from the others.

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Arco della Costa

In the middle of the Piazza, there is a large archway leading to the alleyway along the Via della Costa. Hanging in the middle of the arch is a huge whale’s rib suspended from two thin wire hangers which has been named the Arco della Costa. This passageway connected the old judge’s residence to the tribunal hall. During the Venetian republic, when the rule of law was harsh and swift, judges were often the target of the people’s hatred. So it was important for the government to protect these nobles. They did so by constructing this walkway, which would allow them to get around their workplaces and residences without having to walk in the public streets. 

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Ancient Whale Rib

The whale rib hanging over the entrance was once thought to belong to an ancient aquatic dinosaur. Although recent investigations have proven that it is indeed merely a whale’s rib. The earliest documentation of when the bone was placed here was in the 18th century, but the rib’s age makes it more probable that it has been here for much longer than that. 

Myth of the Giant Whale

There are several theories as to why the rib was placed in the arch, but no one has any concrete proof of either of these hypotheses. One says that it was a relic brought back by the Venetians republic from the holy lands during the crusades. Another legend goes that it was a fossil found in the mountains of Verona. They thought the fossil might have been from ancient monsters, not a whale, and placed it here to ward off evil spirits. But the most likely cause of its installation is perhaps the dullest, and that was an advertisement.

The Piazza de Erbe was a busy place. To catch the public’s attention, an old apothecary shop placed this rib here to mark their location so people could easily find their way to their store. This is the most probable answer because the bone still belongs to the family who owns a pharmacy located here to this day. So more than like was something passed down to their families after many generations.

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Piazza dei Signori

Passing through the Arco della Costa, and walking along the Via della Costa you’ll exit out onto the Piazza dei Signori. This square is home to so many incredible well-known buildings. The square’s name, “Signore” in Italian, means “minister,” which was the name used for influential political figures who shaped Verona’s history. Many powerful and wealthy families lived in this area, who, despite not being technical royalty, held the real power over the city of Verona. As this area was near the old Roman forum and marketplace, it was one of the hottest real estate location in Verona that only the most influential people could afford. 

The buildings around the square represent a range of Verona’s architectural designs throughout the ages. It almost feels like an open-air museum. Each of the individual structures is gracefully adjoined by a series of arches. Atop each arch is a statue of a famous Veronese personality.

Palazzo della Ragione

The Palazzo della Ragione is one of the oldest buildings in Italy, with construction starting in 1193. It is one of the best examples of Veronese Romanesque architecture. The alternating layers of beige stone and red brick display the typical design of Romanesque Veronese architecture.

History of the Palazzo del Comune

Initially, the building was called the Palazzo del Comune. It served as a public plaza and warehouse for the city’s residents. The entire ground floor was open, and there was a large room in the center where the city council would meet. This allowed members of the public to always have eyes on their city council to see what was going on.

But when the Venetian Republic took control of the city in 1405, they turned the building into a courthouse. It became the seat of judicial offices, prisons, professional colleges and even the health office. The closest tower you can see while standing in the square was where prisoners would be set before their trials. The other tower attached to the building is the Lamberti tower we studied previously in the Piazza del Erbe. The building would have initially had four towers, one located on each of the Palazzo corners, but there are only two which remain.

In the center of the courtyard is a large staircase, called the “staircase of reason.” Prisoners would be lead up the stairs were the accusations against them would be read out in front of the public.

Palazzo as Grain Warehouse

Later in the 16th century, the inner courtyard was used as a warehouse for grain. The grain and flour were sold to Verona’s most impoverished families, almost like the food stamp programs some countries have today. With the fall of the Republic, the ownership of the Palazzo’s upper floors was turned over to a private family while the lowers levels remained state-owned. The exterior of the building facing the Piazza dei Signori features a neoclassical design that was made after one of the many fires that ravaged the building. In the early 2000s, the building was converted into the Achille Forti Gallery of Modern Art.

Dante Alighieri

In the centre of the square is a marble column topped with the figure of Italian poet Dante Alighieri, made in 1865 by Ugo Zannoni. Dante spent seven years living in Verona and is much beloved by Veronese citizens. Dante had supported the Emperor in his war against the Pope. But when the Emperor’s army lost, Dante was cast out of Florence. He took up residence in Verona inside the Palace of the Podesta, which is just across from his statue. 

The Divine Comedy

In the Palace of the Podesta, it is said that he wrote the “Divine Comedy.“During his time in Verona, he often stayed at the Scala family court when Bartolomeo Scala was in power. During Dante’s stay, it is said that he witnessed the real-life inspiration for Rome and Juliette with the tragedy of the two lovers Montecchi and Cappelletti.

Palace of the Podestà

The Palace of the Podestà (or the Palazzo del Governo) was a famous residence for local celebrities. It was initially built for the Scaligeri family in 1277. The Scaligeri were the ruling family of Verona from the 13th to 14th centuries. The word Podestà was a name given to high officials in Italy in the later Middle Ages. It was here that the Podesta had their offices but also where they held residence. The house hosted such famous guests as Dante and artists Giotto. Giotto was once commissioned to cover the exterior of the palace in frescoes. Due to the fact they were located outdoors, this meant deterioration was more severe. As they were not well maintained, they have been lost to the ages.

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Verona’s Renaissance

Once more, we see the iconic Ghibelline crenellations on the top of the building. The entrance structure is a beautiful example of the Veronese medieval style. Highlighted by the semi-circular vaults on the lower level. The incredible marble portal was added in the 16th century by Michele Sanmicheli. He was inspired by the arch of Gavi (which we saw earlier in the tour.) On either side of the archway are two winged victories that lay languidly in the corners. Around this time, Verona’s artists were obsessed with the Roman are and were drawing inspiration for the part to include in their modern Renaissance. On the top of the portal is a statue of the Lion of Venice. This was there to show off the fact that this building was under the control of the Republic of Venice.

The archway that connects the Palace of the Podestà to the Palace of Cansignorio is known as the Arco della Tortura. Since this area of town was where all the judges lived and worked, it was also where the judgement was carried out. Torture instruments were strung up along the arch to put fear into the citizens of Verona.

Palace of Cansignorio

On the southeast side of the square, we find the Palace of Cansignorio.  Cansignorio della Scala was Lord of Verona from 1359 until 1375. The Palace, also called the Palazzo del Capitanio, was built in 1363 for the protection of the Captain of the City of Verona under the scrutiny of the Serenissima (the name for the sovereign state of Venice). The palace once featured three towers on top quipped with armed guards. This was where Cansignorio della Scala lived along with the rest of his administration.

The exterior of the building is divided into the brick tower on the right and the classical white facade on the left. The brick dates back from the original construction whereas the white structure was designed during renovations made in the 16th century. One of the most notable parts of the classical building is the large Corinthian archway which leads guests into the inner courtyard. The coats of arms that are carved into the facade are another iconic feature of the building. All of these works were completed by famed Venetian architect  Michele Sanmicheli. 

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Loggia del Consiglio

The Loggia del Consiglio is a stunning piece of Renaissance architecture located in Verona, Italy. Built in the 16th century, this loggia (an open-air gallery) served as the meeting place for the city council and is now considered one of the most significant landmarks in the city. The loggia is made up of a large central arched opening, surrounded by smaller arches, and supported by a series of Corinthian columns. The detailed carvings and frescoes that adorn the loggia walls are breathtaking, showcasing the skill of the artists of that era.

Church of Saint Mary Antica

The Church of Saint Mary ‘Antica’ in Verona, Italy is a stunning example of Gothic architecture. This medieval church, built in the 12th century, is one of the oldest in the city and is renowned for its intricate carvings, stained glass windows, and beautiful frescoes. The church’s exterior is equally impressive, with its pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and tall spires that create a dramatic silhouette against the sky.

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But the most important sight of the church can be found right above the doors to the side entrance. Atop the trefoil archway is the stone sarcophagus of Can Grande I Della Scala. Cangrande della Scala ruled over Verona from 1308 to 1387 and was notable for being a devoted patron of Dante. Above the arch, look up and on top of the pointed tower is an equestrian statue of the prince.

Scaliger Tombs

Peeking between the iron bars just off to the left of the side entrance to the church is a grandiose series of tombs. These are the Scaliers Tombs, the ornate resting places of the members of the powerful Della Scala family. The Della Scala family ruled over Verona during their golden age in the 14th century. Throughout their reign, they made several large impacts on the development of the city. But perhaps their most impressive and lasting monument was their five decorated Gothic tombs.

Each one of their eternal resting places had been placed atop a tall stone plinth, perhaps meant to keep them looking down on the citizens of Veroa for eternity. Each one of their tombs is richly decorated with religious motifs, reflecting the personality of the deceased. For instance, the tomb of Cangrande della Scala, the greatest lord of Verona, is adorned with sculptures of dogs, as “Cangrande” means “big dog” in Italian.

The entire complex is surrounded by a beautifully decorated wrought iron fence with a stair pattern, symbolizing the family’s coat of arms. The stair pattern was used throughout the Arche Scaligere, as “Della Scala” means “of the stairs” in Italian.

Casa di Romeo

Walking along the Via Arche Scaligere, you will pass #4, which contains a plaque stating it is the “Casa di Romeo.” The old brick walls hid behind what is said to have been the house that once belonged to the Montecchi family. Looking up along the roofline, you can see these classic Ghibelline swallowtail battlements. This symbolic piece of architecture really exemplifies the struggles for power that the Ghibellines and the Guelphs were having. Considering that even their architecture was odd and competing for prevalence. Like Coca-cola vs Pepsi. Today, the building is privately owned but can still be seen from the outside.

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Basilica of Santa Anastasia

Heading towards the river, make a quick stop at the Basilica of Santa Anastasia. The Basilica of Santa Anastasia in Verona, Italy, is a magnificent church that dates back to the 14th century. It is one of the largest and most important Gothic churches in Verona. The basilica’s grand facade, featuring pointed arches and elaborate sculptures, sets the tone for the breathtaking interior. 

But entering inside, you’ll see why this stop is worth taking some time to visit. The nave is lined with elegant columns and stained-glass windows that cast a warm glow over the entire space. The highlight of the basilica is the stunning frescoes that adorn the walls and ceilings, depicting scenes from the life of St. Anastasia and other saints. Visitors will also be impressed by the church’s impressive organ, which is one of the largest in Italy, and its beautiful choir stalls.

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Piazzetta Bra Molinari

To finish off your walking tour, head to the Piazzetta Bra Molinari, where you have a beautiful view over the Adige River. You also have a gorgeous view across to the eastern side of the river and the ancient buildings that crawl up the hillside. This includes the Castel San Pietro, the Museo Archeologico al Teatro Romano, the Chiesa dei Santi Siro e Libera and the old convent of Saint Girolamo. Many of these are fantastic places to visit if you have more time in the city. So take a moment to relax and watch the world pass you by from this romantic river side viewpoint.

I truly hope you enjoyed coming with me on this self-guided walking tour of Verona, Italy. Verona was one of my favourite cities in Italy and one I think people know the name of but don’t take enough time to explore! There is so much history and drama to this place, and I hope you find your hidden treasures along the way.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour to the Enchanting Streets of Verona Italy first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

I first discovered these gable stones while walking along the Bloemgracht in the Jordaan Neighbourhood. When I saw the first one, it piqued my interest to look for more, and soon I started to see that almost every other house I passed had these beautiful stone plaques above their doors. Each gable stone portrays a different character, symbol or scene. Delving into the histories and meanings behind the buildings they are housed within. I immediately wanted to know the importance of each one, seeing them as a clue into the family that once lived here. 

About the Tour

After my research, I wanted to create this in-depth post to give you some insight into these incredible treasures of Amsterdam’s architectural past. You can find these gable stones all over the city. And spotting them can be somewhat of an eye-spy adventure. I have marked some of my favourite spots and streets where you can discover the best collection of Amsterdam’s historical gable stones. Some come with me now on our Alternative Amsterdam Walking Tour, the Hidden Secret of Amsterdam’s Gable Stones.

Exploring the Gables Stones of Jordaan Neighbourhood

1. History of Gable Stones
2. Haarlemmerplein & Haarlemmerdijk
3. Binnen Vissersstraat & Brouwersgracht
4. Brouwersgracht
5. Palmgracht
6. Lindengracht
7. Prinsengracht
8. Egelantiersstraat 
9. Bloemgracht

History of Gable Stones

Long before house numbers were the primary method of finding your way around the city, gable stones (or gevelstenen in Dutch) denoted a homeowner’s name or business’s purpose. Many people were illiterate then, so these illustrative signs also served a very functional purpose. In the 16th century, if you were looking for a cobbler, you’d look for the gable stone with a shoe. If you were looking for a tavern, you’d search for a barrel. But there are also much more profound, symbolic meanings to these gable stones. Some contain metaphors, puns and, of course, religious imagery. Each one relates in some way to the history of the homeowners. It’s a fascinating way of getting to know more about the city’s history. 

Amsterdam’s Gable Stones

2,500 of these stones can still be found in the Netherlands. And 850 of these stones can be found in Amsterdam alone. In the 19th century, Amsterdam officially employed a numbering system for their streets and houses, and the gable stone fell out of fashion. But in recent years, they have come back into fashion, and new gable stones have been created to bring back modern-day heraldry.

Haarlemmerplein & Haarlemmerdijk

This tour will be primarily located in the Haarlemmerstraat and Jordaan neighbourhoods. We start our tour along Haarlemmerplein and Haarlemmerdijk. The Haarlemmerplein was originally where the city’s horses and wagons would be parked at the city gates. Today, Haarlemmerdijk is one of the most charming streets in the city. Blending modern shops and historic homes together in one trendy area.

#4 Haarlemmerplein

The gable stone found at #4 Haarlemmerplein is located high above the third-floor windows. But even from afar, the golden gilding glints in the sunlight. This stone features a great tortoise and is one of the more modern plaques. The owner, Betty Ramaekers and Klaas Helder had this gevelstenen designed especially for them. Since tortoises always carry their house with them, they are symbolic of the importance of the home. The owners bought the property in 1985, and the date of the purchase is etched onto the stone.

#109 Haarlemmerdijk

The stone tablet at #109 Haarlemmerdijk is an excellent example of a gable stone’s relation to the resident’s heritage. The house was built for Lady Sluis in 1730. Lady Sluis was originally from Zwartsluis (a Dutch province of Overijssel), and although she had been married off and moved to Amsterdam, she still had a great love for her hometown. So she had the cityscape of Zwartsluis etched onto her gable stone. The 17th-century Reformed Church of Zwartsluis is the central feature of the landscape. But other memorable images of her home are also presented to the public. Like boats coming to shore or birds flying over the horizon. Every time she would return home, she would be met with this image, a beautiful memory of her beloved town.

#13 Binnen Dommersstraat

From here, let’s head down Binnen Dommersstraat towards the house at #13. The shop on the corner is home to one of the most incredibly detailed stone gables in the city. But it is also a delightful bakery that has served this community for over 300 years! As such, it seems appropriate that the image they chose for their relief was from the Gospel of John, when Jesus produced the miracle of multiplying loaves for the hungry masses.

The bakery is now a trendy coffee shop called Toki, which still serves up tasty baked goods. The perfect place to take a break with a warm cup of coffee and a sweet treat.

#119 Vinkenstraat

Right across the street from Toki, at #116 Vinkenstraat, is a stone gable that dates back to 1768. A large white pelican spreads its wings against a pale blue background, looking down at its young babies sitting in a nest below. At first glance, the babies appear to be drinking drops of blood dripping down from the breast of their mother. And in 1768, that is exactly what people thought baby pelicans did eat. Many thought a mother would pierce her own breast to feed her young because that’s what it looked like to the naked eye. But in reality, the pelican is actually reaching into their bill, where they keep fresh fish, and this is actually what the babies eat. 

Myth of the Pelican

But ancient Europeans didn’t take biology in school. So they could only make assumptions from what they saw. From this legend, the pelican because a symbol of self-sacrifice and charity. Some apparently even believed that the pelican could bring its deceased young back to life by giving them its blood leading many to draw a comparison between the pelican and Jesus, who gave his blood to his followers. So anytime you see a pelican, this often will be associated with a religious place or someone who was devoted to god.

#98 Haarlemmerdijk

Continue east along Vinkenstraat and back to Haarlemmerdijk until you reach #98. I adore this little scene above the doorway to #98 Haarlemmerdijk. This tablet shows a shepherd casually lounging on the hillside, looking after his flock of sheep. His trustee dog, with his back, turned to the viewer, is intently watching the sheep. The etching was carved by famed Dutch painter Nicolaas Berchem. Berchem was a popular painter during the Dutch Golden era and was best known for these types of pastoral landscapes.

Originally the house marked the entrance to #101, but when that house was set to be demolished and turned into a post office, the tablet was removed. It was kept safe, and when the time came to reinstall, it was moved to #98.

#47 Haarlemmerdijk

Above the most darling Fleurmonde flower shop is a beautifully painted nautical frieze. It features what looks like a big blue fish. But upon closer inspection, it is actually a large porpoise. The porpoise is diving down into choppy waters. Perhaps swimming during a great storm. During the middle ages, porpoises were known to be spotted swimming in the canals in Amsterdam. And while they are rarely seen today, there have been a few spottings as recent as 2020, when the boat traffic in the canals died down due to Covid-19. Two dolphins are seen carved on either end, framing the entire scene. Another nod to the nautical nature of the city.

#33 Haarlemmerdijk

At #33, you can see an old stone relief dating back to 1740! It depicts Jupiter, also known as the Greek God Zeus. You know it’s him not only by the icons in the scene but also by the huge “Jupiter” lettering on the bottom of the carving. Jupiter is nude but wrapped in a large swathe of fabric. He holds a bundle of lightning bolts in his hand, a stern look on his face. The position of his arm makes it look like he is ready for battle. Jupiter’s trustee eagle sits peacefully at his feet. Jupiter is associated with healing, good fortune, and miracles, so we might imagine that perhaps a healer or apothecary once stood here.

#107 Haarlemmerstraat

Crossing over the large bridge, we head into the eastern part Haarlemmerstraat. As someone who loves astrology, the house at #107 really spoke to me. You’ll see cheerful dancing figures in the upper right corner above the doorway. These little cherubs are holding two black-painted symbols in their hands. These represent the zodiac signs for Cancer and Taurus. But the two children, with identical faces, also represent the zodiac sign of Gemini. It’s safe to assume that these symbols relate to the birthdates of the children or the couple who lived in this house.

#20 Buiten Brouwersstraat

Let’s take a quick detour north along Buiten Brouwersstraat to #20. The incredibly detailed stone relief depicted here features a huge, three-mast ship. The name “TS Chip China” is emblazoned on the bottom of the tablet. Since we know the entire name of the ship, we know a fair bit about it. It was built in 1676 for the Dutch East India Company. Despite the name, the boat mainly travelled to what is now modern-day Jakarta in Indonesia. Perhaps one of the ships’ captains once resided in this grand house.

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#2 Binnen Brouwersstraat

Take a short detour south along Binnen Brouwersstraat to #2. This adorable stone tablet features this enormous beaver, chewing on a tree almost to the point of falling in half. Yet, we are catching him at the moment just before he achieves his end goal. The wording under the tablet says “Castor Tenax 1993,” which translates to “the persistent beaver.”

But the date on the tablet is also of great importance. The entire concept for the gable’s design refers to the tumultuous process of renovations the poor owner undertook when he bought the property in 1990. His aim was to move right in. But he was met with problem after problem. First, a large fire. And then many long and arduous delays in the repairs required and remodelling. The building wasn’t deemed livable until 1993. Three long years after his initial purchase! But he never gave up, just like our persistent little beaver who kept working hard. To eventually achieve its goal.

#66 Haarlemmerstraat

Head back to the Haarlemmerstraat and walk until you reach the impossibly narrow building located at #66. The stone gable above the doorway is as wide as the door. It features a shield with the image of a red lion rearing up on its hind legs. Above the lion is a red crown sitting atop the shield. But this is not a king’s crown, but a duke’s. If you look closely, you can see the fur edging around the brim of the crown made from the hair of a stoat. The words under the crest state that this is the coat of arms of the province of Limburg.

But curiously, we know this tablet to date back to the 17th century when the coat of arms of Limburg was only established in 1886. Before there was Limburg, there were the Lords of Gulik, whose lands would go on to be the south of Limburg, and this was their crest. Today, if you look at the official, you can still see the red lion incorporated into the design of the larger four-cornered shield, representing each part of the province.

#16 Droogbak

Continue north until you reach the island’s edge. From here, walk east along Haarlemmer Houttuinen, which turns into Droogbak street. Here we will stop at #16. The gorgeous sculpted carving on the curved stone plinth is one of the most intricate designs in the city. It was made in 1742 for compass maker Pieter de Jong. Look closely, and the carving features a large compass on a decorative wooden plinth. Amsterdam was a hub for shipbuilders and skippers. A good repair shop close to the harbour was an important feature of the city.

On either side of the compass are two hourglasses. Hourglasses were invented around the 12th century. They were a key feature of a sailing ship as they were used onboard to help time the ship’s watches. A ribbon above the entire piece has the name of the compass maker emblazoned upon it.

#59 Haarlemmerstraat

Head back south to Haarlemmerstraat and make a stop at #59. Above the second-floor window is a gorgeous shield with an array of flowers and foliage exploding from behind it. In the centre of the shield is a large crowned stork. He stands with his one leg raised and a large eel caught in his beak. The stork crest was installed around the 16th century to symbolize good luck. Often good luck symbols were popular icons to put on the houses of sailors to ensure they returned home unharmed.

Binnen Vissersstraat & Brouwersgracht

The name “Binnen Vissersstraat” is Dutch for Fishing street. It was named as such because this roadway ends at the mouth of the canal. From this street, fishermen would bring in their day catch and take it to the marketplace.

#4 Binnen Vissersstraat

Turn south down Binnen Vissersstraat, where at #4 you’ll find a funny stone plaque. The tablet depicts the very house you are standing in front of. Beside the house is a large green tree. Look closely, and you’ll see gold coins growing from the tree and a man collecting the coins in a wheelbarrow below. The tablet was designed in the 1980s during the restoration of the house. The restoration was a costly one. To make light of the situation, the owner had this stone gable designed to reference the fact he wished “money grew on trees.”

#9 Binnen Vissersstraat

At #9, we see an even more modern design, made in 1997 for Barbara Jonckheer when she retired. Jonckheer was an essential figure in the Amsterdam Bureau of Conservation. Her efforts to restore and conserve art throughout the city was her life’s work. And although you might not know her name, so many historical buildings that you will admire along the way no doubt have been touched by her in some way. The image of a stately young spire, bowing with his feathered cap, is a way of showing reverence for the great woman.

Brouwersgracht

Turn down Brouwersgracht and head back west. Gracht is the Dutch word for Canal, and Brouwers means brewery. The name came from the 16th century when this area of town was home to many beer, gin and liqueur breweries. Many houses along this street still have their large wooden shutters, which identified the homes as warehouses back in the day. The Brouwersgracht was voted the most beautiful street in Amsterdam, so take in the sights as we walk along.

#52 Brouwersgracht

At #52 Brouwersgracht, we find the old home of furniture designer Andries Tenck. Tenck bought the house in 1759, as indicated on the stone gable. The tablet depicts how this ingenious chair-maker could turn a simple wooden piece of furniture into an extravagant fantasy. Below the Louis XV-style chair on the right are the words “nooyt volmaakt” which means “never perfect.” A classic moniker of artists who are never happy with their work. Such is the plight of the creative.

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#28 Binnen Wieringerstraat

Make a quick detour up Binnen Wieringerstraat to see the house at #28. De Visser is the inscription underneath the gable, which translate to, “the Fisherman.” And right there on the front, we can see an 18th-century fisherman dressed in traditional gare. He is seen holding a large fishing spear in one hand and his catch of the day in the other. In the foreground stands two stacks of barrels on either side and a smoking pot on the right. But how could a lowly fisherman buy a house such as this? Well, the answer lies in the contents of the barrels. The answer? Whale blubber.

Whale Oil

Whaling in the Netherlands began in the 17th century when the Dutch discovered the artic fishing grounds. At the industry’s peak, about 25% of ships in the Dutch fleet were whaling vessels. Whale oil was hugely profitable in the 17th and 18th centuries, as they could derive whale oil from the fat in the mammal’s body. Before electricity, oil lamps were the only way people could light their homes, street lamps and stoves. So oil was like gold dust. While you could get oil from livestock, it stank and produced thick smoke, while whale oil, on the other hand, burned bright and clear! Whale oil is made by boiling strips of blubber harvested from whales. And this is exactly what is depicted in the stone gable on the front of the house. What a story!

#76 Brouwersgracht

Back along Brouwersgracht, make your way to #76. You’ll need to look down to see the stone tablet above the basement door. Unlike the other on this tour, which is usually above the front door, this one is a little more hidden away.

The scene depicts the various stages of making wine. On the left side of the frame, the grapes are plucked from the vines, then in the centre, we can see someone stomping the grapes with their feet inside a large barrel. The last vignette depicts the wine poured from the barrel into a glass. Ready to be enjoyed by the public! As we are back again on Brewery street, this is a good indication that this building would have once been a wine distillery. I love the design of this carving. It feels very stylized and different from everything else we’ve seen.

#114 Brouwersgracht

The gevelstenen at #114 Brouwersgracht is unique because it is three-dimensional. It literally jumps out at us from the facade of the old brick building. The brightly painted blue and red emperor’s crown is flanked by the warehouse’s black wooden shutters. 

In the 15th century, even though Amsterdam was just a fishing village, the emperor awarded them the right to use the emperor’s crown. Having the right to use the emperor’s crown was a big deal, as it acted as a means of showing you were protected by the emperor and his army. Amsterdam was given the right to use the emperor’s crown thanks to the large amounts of money it loaned Emperor Maximillian I during the Hook and Cod wars in the 15th century. They might have just been a fishing village, but fishing brought in money, and the merchants who traded in fish brought vast amounts of gold. 

#133 Brouwersgracht

Cross over the Papiermolensluis to reach the opposite side of the canal. From here, you can make your way to #133 Brouwersgracht. Of all the animals you might imagine seeing depicted in Amsterdam, a hippo would perhaps be the last of your guesses, and yet here it is! In fact, the inscription beneath the stone carving states that this is “the hippo in the canal.“

Jan Joost Peskens was the house’s first occupant and was obsessed with hippos. In his early childhood, he had read all about them in a book by biologist Hillenius. To Peskens, they seemed like mythological creatures and yet somewhere out there, they were real! His love for the hippo never wained, and for this birthday, after purchasing the house, his wife had this stone gable made special for him. It was unveiled on the big day, and even though he might never see a real hippo himself, he would be greeted by this friendly face every day upon his return home.

#163 Brouwersgracht

On the corner of the house at #163 Brouwersgracht, you can find the sign from an old grainery that once stood here. The grainery was built in 1729, and although the original building has been demolished, the house sign has been preserved. In the carving, you can see the process by which people would come to buy their corn and grain. They would fill up this wooden barrel with grains and then use the attached metal bow to smooth and level the grain on top. Ensuring each measure of grain was properly levelled, and each barrel load contained the same amount. Pretty ingenious invention for the 16th century.

Palmgracht

#3 Palmgracht

Make your way west along Palmgracht. The Palmgracht, also known as the Palm Canal, was once waterfilled before the 1850s. During those years, many of the Jordaan neighbourhood canals were filled in due to the poor water quality and the need to create more livable space for the increasing population. The name “palm canal” is odd as palm trees could never grow here in Amsterdam. But Dutch sailors and merchants who worked in the Indonesian Dutch colonies had come to adore the beauty of these fantastic plants. And although they couldn’t bring them home with them, their love of the tropical plant lived on.

This is exemplified at #3 Palmgracht, where a palm tree is represented in the stone gable. The palm tree was not just a beauty to look at but also a plant that could thrive against all odds. Not wind, nor drought or even the greatest of storms could destroy the mighty palm. So many people use the palm tree as a symbol to represent triumph over adversity.

#60 Palmgracht

Towards the street’s western end, you’ll find stone gables aplenty. At #60, we can find the two golden nightingales. The nightingale is frequently associated with creativity and related to nature’s purity. The tablet was added around the 20th century when the house was owned by architect E. Van Houten. Undoubtedly, creativity and mother nature’s inspirations are important to architects and perhaps why Van Houten selected the nightingales as his house emblem. 

#68 Palmgracht

At #68 Palmgracht, we find the brilliant image of the Hindu creature Rakshasa. Rakshasa is a mythological demon or goblin. Rakshasas have the power to change their shape at will and appear as animals, monsters, or in the case of female Rakshasa, as beautiful women. Many immigrants to Amsterdam came from Dutch Indonesia. And they brought with them their vibrant culture and history. This Rakshasa was designed to replicate the one embedded in the front of the medieval palace of Singosari, twelve kilometres north of the Indonesian city Malang.

Be sure to get up close and personal with the carving to make out all the tiny details in the sculpture. You can see the little faces hiding within the Rakshasa’s headdress. She sits with one hand projecting outwards towards the street. The Rakshasa bares her fangs and holds a large club in her other hand. She looks quiet and menacing. These symbols were often placed outside the home in order to protect it from evil.

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#63 Palmgracht

Cross the street and head over to #63 Palmgracht. This house bears one of the oldest stone tablets in the city. De Blom Kool, or the “Flowering Cabbage” tablet, was installed here in 1679. Willem Harmensz Kool owned the house and worked in the Waag as a weight-bearer. In the 17th century, numbers #61, #63 and #65 all contained the same cauliflower symbols, but today this is the only one that remains. The cabbage was his house emblem, as “Kool” means cabbage.

The Waag was the “weigh house” and was originally a city gate and part of the walls of Amsterdam. A weigh house did literally what it sounds like, weighing out various goods brought into the city, which required taxation. And Kool, as a weight-bearer, was charged with ensuring all taxes were paid in full. 

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#73 Palmgracht

At #73, you’ll find the House of the Radishes. Another vegetable-themed house! But unlike the previous house with a history dating back hundreds of years, this home’s gable was designed in 1973. The owner loved the song ‘The Radish waltz,’ written and sung by Louis Davids. And when the house was renovated in 1973, they added this vibrant new gable onto the brick facade.

Lindengracht

Take a walk south along Lijnbaansgracht, beside the scenic canal. Continue along until you reach Lindengracht.

#211 Lindengracht

At #211 Lindengracht is where the 17th-century residents of Amsterdam would have come to purchase their tobacco. The business was marked by this stone plaque featuring an enslaved man holding a large tobacco leaf in his hand. On the ground are three rolls of tobacco, and in the background, we can find two woven baskets used to harvest the tobacco leaves. During the 17th century, they called this stone gable the “Tobacco Moor.” But the term Moor is now considered a derogatory word applied to dark-skinned Muslims of North Africa. These men were enslaved by the Dutch Europeans and used to farm the tobacco fields. And while the Netherlands banned the slave trade in 1814, memories of their cruelty remain etched on the stones of the street even to this day.

#160 Lindengracht

Above the door to the old cafe on the corner of Lindengracht and Tweede Goudsbloemdwarsstraat is the most splendid little vignette carved above the portal. Unlike the other tablets made of stone, this piece is made of wood. And miraculously, has been preserved here since the 18th century. It marked the entrance to an old wine cellar, as seen in the carving by stacks of barrels lining the left side of the frame. The most curious and wide-eyed cat looks out towards us on the right side, hiding among the vine of plump grape trees. Cats are often used as symbols of femininity. Many people interpret this as a sign that in here this establishment the woman was the one truly in charge!

#73 Lindengracht

Recently the stone tablet on #73 Lindengracht has been restored to its former glory. This house was a former blacksmith shop in the 19th century. Marking the spot is the stone tablet showing a suspended horseshoe. The horseshoe is the most iconic symbol of the blacksmith. The word for blacksmith is written in Dutch below the horseshoe. The large black arched doorways on either side of the lower level are also clear signs of an old horse barn once being here. Large doors were required to provide access to the horse and carriages, which often would come here to be repaired, just like taking your car into the auto shop!

#55 Lindengracht

Above the doorway to #55 is a stone gable featuring a great green tree. But instead of bearing fruit like apples or pears, hanging in its branches are silver painted fish swimming amongst the leaves. Just below the swimming fish is a nest, but within it, a bundle of eels instead of birds. Almost unsurprisingly, the plaque was designed in the acid-riddled 1970s. Even the text below the icons is subverted, written backwards, only to be read with a mirror. 

Palingoproer

But the scene isn’t derived from a drug-induced dream. Instead, it is a reference to a famous historical event, the Palingoproer, which occurred here along these canals in 1886. The Palingoproer or ‘the Eel riot‘ started when the police attempted to stop the Jordaan neighbourhood’s citizens from playing their favourite eel-pulling game. Eel pulling was an old Amsterdam pastime where a rope was stretched over the canal, and a live eel was hung from it. Players had to sail their boats underneath the rope to try and grab the slippery eel without falling into the water.

The game was deemed as “cruel public entertainment” by the government of the time, and the police went to put a stop to it. None of the authorities could have imagined just how popular this event was, and just for fiercely the people of Amsterdam would fight to preserve their right to go eel-pulling. When the police started to force spectators to disperse, a riot broke out. In the fighting, 26 people were killed by police. The fish and eels in the gable stone here are meant to commemorate the uprising. And perhaps remind the authorities of just how important culture is to the Dutch people, no matter how silly or frivolous.

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#53 Lindengracht

Above the windows at #53 Lindengracht is the gable of Barend Wargaren. Wargaren lived here in 1742. The name “Warren” means “war of yarn,” and the image we see depicted in the stone plaque is the allegory based on the name. On the left is a monkey sitting at a spinning wheel with the help of a small dog who aids him on the twisting wheel. On the right sits another monkey on a stool. He also tries to twist a yarn spool, but he uses a wooden reel.

Although the monkey on the right looks like he has spun more wool onto his spool, his method creates a weaker product. You twist two or more single threads together by using the twisting wheel and spinning wheel together, thus creating a stronger yarn. This takes more time, but diligence will always win the war over foolish haste. That is the moral of the story.

#5 Lindengracht

At #5 Lindengracht we find a stone tablet featuring the most iconic symbol of the Netherlands; the windmill. On either side of the mill are two bundles of yellow stacks of wood awaiting their turn to be sawed inside. Before the 19th century, Amsterdam, and this canal in particular, was home to dozens of small wind-powered sawmills. Back then, this area of town wasn’t a hub of residential living. This area once lay behind the city walls and was considered the rural outskirts. Therefore, it was common to have windmills along the ramparts as it was a halfway point between farmer’s fields and the city’s marketplaces where milled wood could be sold.

Prinsengracht

The Prinsengracht is a regal canal named after the Prince of Orange. It is the fourth of the four main canals belonging to the famous canal belt. And as such many of the houses along this canal are some of the most beautiful.

#36 Prinsengracht

The soaring facade at #36 Prinsengracht is a stunning example of the best elements of Amsterdam’s iconic architecture. One of these characteristics is the beautiful neck-gable roof ornaments in many Dutch canal houses. Also displayed on the facade of the house are “oeils-de-boeuf” windows. These windows, also called “ox eye” windows are small round windows that flank either side of the attic that resemble the eyes of an animal looking down on the city below. The fantastical house dates back to 1650, as marked on the stone carving towards the top of the house. 

Above the 3rd floor is where we can find our stone tablet, which depicts a rich blue sack filled with white feathers. In the 17th century, the house went by the name ‘als daer De Veersack in de gevel staet,’ which means, “there where the feather sack is in the façade.” The building was initially used as a feather bed warehouse during the 17th and 18th centuries. After closing down, it was later used as a sugar and chocolate factory.

#60 Prinsengracht

On the front of the house at #60 is a simple oblong stone depicting an upside-down bowler hat. It even has the words “BOLHOED,” meaning bowler hat, written on the sign. The building was previously home to a vegetarian restaurant named “De Bolhoed,” but it has since closed down. Hopefully, a new restaurant will move in and keep the bowler head name going!

#46 Tuinstraat

Turn west along Tuinstraat until you reach #46. At this house was where you could once have come to buy your soap. On the 17th-century gable stone, you can read the inscription that says, “IN DE ASWERCKER,” which means “In the ashes-worker. Carved into the stone gable is the image of a worker, piling up a series of large copper barrels. But what do ashes and barrels have to do with soap? Well, I’m glad you asked!

Inside these barrels, the soapmaker would have stored Potash. Potash is made from plant or wood ashes that have been soaked in a “pot” of water. Potash is one of the most ancient ways of making soap, a technique that dates back to the Bronze age. Ashes were transformed into lye, which is still to this day a key ingredient in soap-making. In the sixteenth century, the Dutch were one of the largest soap suppliers and consumers. And the warehouses all along this stretch of roadway would have been used to produce these sought-after products.

Egelantiersstraat 

Walk one street south to find yourself walking along Egelantiersstraat. ‘Egelantiers‘ was a chamber of rhetoric, also known as a dramatic society, that rose up in this area of Amsterdam in 1517. The symbol for the organization was the Eglantine Rose or Sweet Briar Rose in the shape of a cross. It was a symbol of love, and their slogan was “In Love, Flourishing.” It’s no surprise to find an actor enamoured with romance, but the actual reference to the rose was from a beloved poem by Beatrijs. In this poem, two young lovers meet secretly by the wild roses.

These dramatic societies were closely connected with political leaders. Even back then, the government saw how theatre could be an instrument of propaganda and worked with the groups as an early form of public relations for the city. Many of the stone tablets on these streets are very dramatic, inspired by the theatrical movements in this part of the city.

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#52 Egelantiersstraat

As we’ve mentioned before, not everyone could read back in the middle ages; that’s why we have these stone tablets. To give visual examples of the professions found within. But in addition to not being able to read, many poorer citizens did not know how to write either. So what did these people do when they needed to write a letter or sign a legal document? In this situation, you would find a writing master!

The stone gable at house #52 Egelantiersstraat is where the old writing master once operated. You can see a goose feather quill in his hand as the pen master sets out to write on the parchment paper below. This tablet dates back to 1618 and was made for Hendrick Theunisz. In addition to writing for people, Theunisz would offer writing lessons out of this shop. Teaching the public to write so they wouldn’t always have to employ his services.

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#24 Egelantiersstraat

The narrow entrance at #24 Egelantiersstraat features one of the most elaborate and beautiful stone gables in town. The old stone displays the words “ANSLO’S HOFJE” below the shield, which crowns the insignia. Cornelis Claesz Anslo was a wealthy cloth merchant and Mennonite pastor who lived here on Egelantiersstraat. Anslo was actually good friends with Rembrandt, and after Anslo’s wife’s death, Rembrandt painted a picture of the two after her untimely death.

But Anslo wasn’t one to hoard his wealth and opened up an almshouse here in Amsterdam. There, he offered free housing to the elderly as early as 1626. The stone tablet’s shield is surrounded by acanthus leaves. The symbol in the centre is the emblem of the house of Anslo and features a circle with three arrows piercing it, topped with a golden crown.

#8 Egelantiersgracht

The beautiful brick house at #8 Egelantiersgracht features a series of stone gables set into the friezes above the first floor. The two tablets in the center are inscribed with the date the house was built in 1649. On either corner of the building are two different carvings. The right corner features a brewer stirring a large cauldron. On the left is the image of Saint Willibrordus. Saint Willibrordus famously was able to turn a barrel of beer into a barrel of wine.

In the 17th century, when you combined these two symbols, people knew this was a sign that you’d find a tavern inside! During the 17th century, beer was drunk with every meal, not water like we drink today. Back then, water wasn’t potable, and beer was considered the safest to drink as it had been processed. Even children drank beer with every meal! But thankfully, beer in the middle ages only contained an alcohol content of 2%. 

#50 Egelantiersgracht

Above the window at #50 Egelantiersgracht is a beautiful red rose brushed with gold leaf. Around the rose petals is the inscription ‘In Love Bloeyende,‘ which means “In Love, Flourishing.” Which, as we learned before, is the motto of the Eglantiers.

#72 Egelantiersgracht

A few doors down at #72, on the corner of Egelantiersgracht and Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat, is the large cartouche of the brilliant golden sun. The brick cafe was originally a coach house in the 17th century designed by famous architect Philip Vingboons. The three houses along the street were named the sun, the moon and the stars. And each one originally had a stone tablet depicting its namesake. During renovations in the 1970s, the cartouche on #72 was removed from its original location nearer the roof and moved to the lower level, above the doorway, so more people could appreciate this ancient stone gable.

#15 Egelantiersgracht

Crossing the canal over the Hilletjesbrug, make your way to #15 Egelantiersgracht. Here, you’ll find an 18th-century stone tablet featuring a carpenter hard at work. In his hand, he works with his chisel, and in the background, you can see various other tools of the trade. The square frame in the upper right-hand corner of the carving was a design every carpenter needed to create to be accepted into the carpenters guild. It was seen as proof of their competency. So when you see this symbol on a carpenter’s house, you know they are the real deal!

Bloemgracht

Walking along the Prinsengracht over to the Bloemgracht. The Bloemgracht is named after the ‘Bolwerk de Bloem‘ windmill, which once stood here in 1614. The iconic windmill remained here until 1878, when it was moved to Haarlemmerweg. In the 17th century, the Bloemgracht was one of the most popular areas for artists and craftsmen to live and work. The road was full of dyers who used the nearby canal to rinse their fabrics. Willem Blaeu started his cartography workshop here in 1635. A large print shop was built in 1672, and later in the 19th century, a famous graphic trading house was opened.

But most famously, the painter Rembrandt had a studio on the Bloemgracht in the 1660s. In the 18th and 19th centuries, the canal became a hotspot for sugar factories. But these disappeared after WWII when the area transformed into a residential neighbourhood. And today it remains one of the most picturesque in the city!

Bloemgracht and Leliedwarsstraat

On the corner of Bloemgracht and Leliedwarsstraat, we can find the old stone tablet of ‘The Dove and the Olive Branch.’ The larger-than-life image of the dove stands perched atop an engraving of Noah’s arc. In 1614, the land here was purchased by carpenter Franchoijs Gisep. Gisep built two matching houses side by side. Just as Noah had two of each animal brought aboard his boat, Gisep had two houses. The houses were named the “Dove” and the “Oliver Branch,” respectively. Gisep had individual stone gables created for each house, but these were lost over the years.

In the 20th century, when the houses were joined together to form one large property, the new owner wanted to pay homage to the history of the home. So he created this blended stone tablet that ties the entire story together. Another example of modern-day owners still preserving the historic past of these old buildings.

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#15 Bloemgracht

Above the windows on the second floor is the 17th-century tablet depicting an armoured knight carrying a large spiked club. The knight is dressed in the armour of the Magnus of Schagen gentlemen. Schagen is a city northwest of Amsterdam whose coat of arms is depicted in the tablet. The text on the inscription beneath the image reads, “the knight and the rose.”

#19 Bloemgracht

The Pelican Book House can be found a few doors down at #19 Bloemgracht. We have seen the pelican’s image used as a symbol to represent the blood of Jesus Christ previously. But here, it is even more glorious, with the image of the sun of righteousness enlightening the entire scene. Below the bird is a cube with the symbols of Rosicrucianism. These are a series of lettered roses surrounding a golden cross. The word “Rosicrucianism” literally translates to “rose cross.” Rosicrucianism was based on Christian mysticism with occult traditions. The stone pelican was used to mark the entrance to their mystic library.

The entire stone is encircled by a bright green snake swallowing its tail. This is a classical symbol signifying the cycle of birth and death. The snake swallowing its own tail also represents the knowledge of good and evil. In Rosicrucianism, the collection of knowledge in their mystic libraries was one of the most important touchstones of the order.

#29 Bloemgracht

As the street was home to the Rosicrucian order, we can find even more mythical symbols abound. This unicorn tablet at #29 Bloemgracht was designed in the 20th century. It features the noble, rearing up against the brilliant golden sun. The sun’s rays emanate from the twisted horn, almost as if the sun is sprouting out of the unicorn’s head.

In the background, a beautiful waterfall flows down around a peaceful forest. The flowing water represents the symbol of everlasting life. Classically the blood of a unicorn was said to give the drinker everlasting life. And in mysticism, many people would seek out a unicorn horn to create the elixir of life, which was said to give the drinker everlasting life.

#59 Bloemgracht

This elegant stone tablet is a modern creation made in honour of the woodworking company, ‘Fa Hassink en Zn.’ The shop was opened in 1934 and remained here for over 50 years, closing in 1995. The swirling wood curl from the gilded block plane in the center wraps around the frame, almost tying it up in a pretty bow!

#77 & 81 Bloemgracht

The house symbols at #77 and #81 Bloemgracht are the largest and most impressive of all the plaques we’ve seen. Each scene depicted above the entrances features the same theme: “The old sower” and “The young sower.”

At #77, we can see a farmer sowing seeds from a simple satchel along his freshly ploughed field. A small house is featured in the right-hand corner, and a small tree sits off to the left in the distance. The houses along this street were once sugar refineries, and these stone tablets were commissioned for their warehouses. As they were created during the baroque period, the stone gables’ edges are decorated in ornate floral curls.

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The tablet at #81 features a young farmer, perhaps the son of the man featured in the previous frame. In this scene, the house on the right is much larger and surrounded by a few other homes. We can also see that the tree has grown substantially. This little vignette is perhaps a vision of the future. The hard work the father did paid off and provided a brighter future for his son. A good message for the warehouse workers to see on their way to work.

#87, 89 & 91 Bloemgracht

The enormous old warehouse stretching from #87 to #91 Bloemgracht was once the “pearls of the Jordaan” neighbourhood. The original warehouse was built in the 17th century in this beautiful Renaissance style. It was called the De Drie Hendricken, or House of the Three Hendricks. Hendrick Roelofsz was the architect of the building, and atop each of the three matching buildings, he placed a different image to denote one from the other.

The gable stones depict a townsman, a farmer and a sailor. These characters represented the three distinct parts of the Dutch economy; city, country and sea. The townsman is dressed in expensive finery, knee braces, a large billowing cloak, a wide-brimmed hat, and a pair of shoes with golden buckles. The farmer can be seen carrying a spade in his right hand and a stick with a basket on his right shoulder. Finally, we have the sailor depicted carrying a basket in his hands, an anchor at his feet, and a ship sailing in the background. After the warehouses closed down, the building was converted into three individual townhomes.

The Jordaan is full of more than its fair share of hidden symbols. And these stone gables are just one of the many hidden histories that lurk along the cobblestone-lined canals. I hope you enjoyed this tour and saw some amazing things along the way! Let me know in the comment how you liked the tour and anything else you’d like me to uncover for your next trip to Amsterdam!

Happy Travels, Adventurers.

References: gevelstenenvanamsterdam.nl | amsterdamsebinnenstad.nl

The post Ultimate Amsterdam Architecture Walking Tour, Jordaan’s Gable Stones & Secrets Symbolism first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Whether you believe in ghosts or not, the true stories behind the legends are a great way to learn more about this incredible city. Whether you’re an avid urban explorer or just someone looking for something unique to do during your stay in New York, this Greenwich Village Ghost Tour will help you discover all of the best haunts. And best of all, you get to go at your own pace. There are so many places along the way to rest your feet, so don’t be scared to take a break, or grab a drink at one of the many bars and cafes along the way!

About the Tour

This tour starts off in the eastern outskirts of Greenwich Village and ends aptly on the north tip of the neighbourhood, just off of Greenwich Avenue. The google map below will show you all the stops along the way! The walk will take around two hours, taken at a leisurely pace. Stop in a restaurant, grab a beer in a pub or even just sit and admire the architecture. Plus, you want all the chances you can get to see if you can spot a spectre!

There are plenty of spooky and scary stories along the way, so if you’re taking this tour with little kids you might want to pre-read through some of the stories. That way, you can decide for yourself if they are appropriate for your kids.

Map of Greenwich Village Ghost Tour

When To Do the Tour

The best time to do the tour is before dusk. Remember: New York is a big city. And like any big city, you need to keep your wits about you when walking around at night. But the tour is designed around popular locations in busy parts of the city. That way, you’re not somewhere totally out of the way late at night. You don’t want to start your walk too late at night. That way, you might miss out on being able to stop in for drinks along the way.

Obviously, “spooky season” (aka September and October) are the most atmospheric times to do the tour. The leaves change and cast a gorgeous yellow and orange hue across the brick brownstones. And the crisp Autumnal air sets the scene for ghostly apparitions. But if you don’t care about the time of year, you can absolutely take this Greenwich Village Ghost Tour whenever you are in town.

Quick History of Greenwich Village

The original marshland that now makes up Greenwich Village was called Sapokanikan by the indigenous people who were the first inhabitants of New York. Sapokanikan means “tobacco field” since the indigenous people used this rich land, close to the water, for their fields and crops. Greenwich Village was also a popular spot for fisherpeople as it was located next to a populated trout stream.

When the Dutch colonized the land, they renamed it New Amsterdam, after the original capital city in the Netherlands. At the time, this little hamlet was far from the dense city centre. When the English arrived, they battled for land and won it from the Dutch in 1664. But it wasn’t until 1713 that the colony was officially designated as “Grin’wich” in the public records. It was named after a popular neighbourhood in London.

Exodus to Greenwich

In the late 1700s and early 1800s, people were trying to escape the yellow fever epidemic that ravaged the centre of New York. So they fled to areas outside the epicentre, into rural communities like Greenwich. New blocks of rowhouses began to pop along previously uninhabited farmland. These new streets were designed in the popular Federal style. Houses were simple square or rectangular boxes, only two or three stories tall. Most New York Federal-style buildings were made of brick with cast or wrought iron handrails. The brick buildings that make up this part of the city are one of the most iconic features of the area. These houses were occupied mostly by middle-class merchants and tradespeople.

In 1833 the New York City University moved its campus to Greenwich. With all these academics in one central area grew a bohemian environment. Art galleries, literary salons, and libraries swept through to match demand. This beatnik enclave was marked by cheap rent, drawing more and more artists and immigrants to the area. And drove out the upper classes.

Bohemian Greenwich

In the late 19th century, Greenwich Village saw another huge growth spurt. This was with the influx of French, Irish, and Italian immigrants fleeing Europe during World War II. Factories began to pop up around the area where large expanses of land were still available. And these factories could easily be filled with immigrant workers living in the newly created tenements housing.

This free spirit and rowdy community were rich with speakeasies in the prohibition era of the 1920s. Which ironically attracted uptown patrons who couldn’t find anywhere to drink in their upper-crust neighbourhoods. Throughout the years, the neighbourhood became known for its counterculture attitudes and was a hub for political and cultural movements. In fact, it was here that the Stonewall riots were first started. Sadly, rising housing costs in the district drove out the artists that originally made it what it was. Today the neighbourhood remains one of the most architecturally and historically rich areas of New York City.

St. Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery

The first stop on our tour is notoriously one of the most haunted. At the intersection of 2nd and 10th Street, walk north until you see the giant silhouette of a church in the distance. This is the old St. Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery. As you approach, keep your ears peeled for the sounds of an old church bell ringing in the distance.

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Petrus Stuyvesant

The site for this first church in the area was purchased in 1652 by Petrus (Peter) Stuyvesant. Stuyvesant was the first of the colony of New Amsterdam. Stuyvesant was originally a great Dutch soldier. But during a battle against the Spanish, he was badly wounded and lost his leg. It was amputated and replaced with a wooden leg, giving him the nickname “Peg Leg Pete.” Because he could no longer fight, he was selected by the Dutch West India Company to go to New York. There he would serve as governor of one of their new colonies.

Stuyvesant built a small church on the site for himself and his family. After his accident, Stuyvesant was a melancholy man. He was also a religious man, and the church brought him much peace. Stuyvesant had purchased this specific property for his dwelling because it was located far away from the hustle and bustle of the “big city.” So it was much to his dismay, as the city continued to grow, that his once peaceful neighbourhood would soon be riddled with townhouses and noisy pedestrians.

Despite all this, Stuyvesant stayed put in his home, and when he died, he was buried beneath his chapel. In 1793 the original chapel was sold off to the village. But the community built an even more impressive Episcopal church in its place in 1795.

The Ghost of St. Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery

But soon after building the new and improved church, people started noticing strange occurrences happening inside. One day, the villagers were awoken by the tolling of the church bell. This would usually not be a strange noise, but this bell was ringing in the middle of the night. And it wouldn’t stop!

Everyone raced to the church to see what was the matter. But when they arrived, they found the door to the bell tower locked shut from the inside. When they finally broke down the door, the noise stopped. But the room was empty. And they looked up to find the bell’s rope had been cut. The only reachable part of the rope was way too far above the ground for anyone human to reach. Everyone was perplexed as to how the bell had been rung at all, let alone for hours.

The townsfolk searched the church for clues. Finally, they found the torn part of the rope lying atop Peter Stuyvesant‘s crypt. And as they were all standing around the crypt in silent horror, they heard the sound of Stuyvesant’s wooden leg echoing throughout the halls of the church. Today many people report still hearing the ghostly footsteps of Stuyvesant’s wooden leg throughout the church. See if you can hear it for yourself.

The Body Snatchers

Another interesting story from the churchyard revolves around the stone burial vault of Alexander Turney Stewart. When he died in April 1876, Alexander Turney Stewart was America’s third-richest man. Stewart made his fortune as a retailer. He was a hugely popular figure in the city, and his funeral was packed with the city’s cream of the crop. Writers, politicians, lawyers and more all came out to St. Mark’s Church on the Bowrey to pay their respects.

In October, six months after Stewart’s burial, the church sexton noticed that doors to the vault had been disbursed. When he looked inside, he noticed several vault slabs moved, but the tombs were still in place. The sexton was immediately suspicious, with fears of so-called “resurrection men.” He made sure to a night watchmen just in case the people who broke in tried to do it again.

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Resurrection Men

In the 1780s, grave robbing was on the rise. Originally grave robbing was mainly done for doctors to get their hands on “fresh” dead bodies. They used these to practice their trade and other medical experiments. But in 1870, the sensation of grave robbing was often done in search of ransom. Even Abraham Lincoln’s body was victim to an attempted robbery. Although thankfully, that was thwarted. But it was not uncommon for the bodies of wealthy men to fetch an acceptable price. Once the ransom was paid, the bodies would be returned.

The Theft of A. T. Stewart’s Body

Unfortunately, the watchmen the section hired failed at his one duty. And on the morning of November 7th, the sexton discovered the body of A. T. Stewart had been removed from his vault. Police arrived on the scene and were horrified by the brown blotches they found around the area. These were immediately identified as “pieces” of Stewart. Stewart had been dead for more than eight months and would have been in a terrible state of decomposition. So when the criminals left with the body, they left bits of the body trailing behind them as they fled. But the trail went cold, and the police had no leads.

Media Sensation

The newspapers ate up this media sensation. A reward of $25,000 was offered to the public for any information leading to the thief’s capture. Hundreds of letters poured in with theories, but none proved to provide any actual leads. In 1879 the attorneys for Stewart received a letter from Canada claiming to be the robbers. When the lawyers asked for proof, they provided several silver pieces of Stewart’s missing nameplate, also taken during the robbery. The lawyers tried negotiating with the thieves, but the trail eventually went cold. As perhaps the thieves were getting scared off, with talk of the robbery is all the papers.

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Walling’s Confession

A very contested private memoir from the police chief Walling in 1878 claimed that he was in communication with the real thieves. And he claimed to have negotiated with the criminals. With the help of Stewart’s wife, they met up at midnight on an abandoned pathway outside the Hudson Valley. The masked men arrived on horseback with a velvet coffin cloth from the tomb. And a bag of bones they claimed was Stewart’s.

The masked men handed them over in exchange for the money and rode off into the night. Walling claims the bones were taken by Stewart’s wife. In 1885, they were laid in the Cathedral of the Incarnation, where Stewart’s wife was buried. But many have refuted this claim as gossip and a way for Walling to make a few bucks on his memoir. No one will ever know the truth, but many people have claimed that the cemetery is haunted by the ghost of Stewart. Stewart is known to roam angrily around the church, furious about being torn from his grave. Many say if you smell something awful, like the piece of his body that was trailed behind, that is a sign Stewart is just around the corner.

McSorley’s Old Ale House

Head south along 2nd Avenue, turning west onto East 7th Street. Walk west along east 7th Street until you reach #15 where you’ll find the historic McSorley’s Old Ale House. McSorley’s is Manhattan’s oldest continuously run tavern! You definitely need to make a point to stop here inside to rest your legs and admire the decor and atmosphere, and get a drink! The darkened wood of the walls is almost stained with history. Along the interior, you’ll see an authentic old wanted poster for John Wilkes Booth. The chair hanging above the bar was the one that Abraham Lincoln himself sat in when he came in for a drink. And the handcuffs on the wall were apparently worn by Harry Houdini.

But what might lurk in the shadows among the displays are the ghosts of the tavern’s past. Bar staff have frequently seen their cats arching their backs and nuzzling into invisible hands. As if the ghost that comes every night is only there to give the cats a pet. So see if you can spot any cats who look particularly happy with no living soul around to be entertaining them.

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Merchant’s House Museum

Walk south down 3rd Avenue, and turn west down 4th street. At #29 stands an old brick mansion, sitting in between two large empty lots, ripe for new constructions. But the old mansion remains, sticking out like a sore thumb. The house was once owned by wealthy merchant Seabury Tredwell. It was built in 1832, and despite its age, if you walked inside, you’d find almost the entire house unchanged.

In the 250 years since its construction, the house appears as if no time has passed. This is because the house is now a city-owned museum. It aimed at presenting to the public the personal lives of upper-class families living in New York in the 19th century. Throughout the museum are hundreds of personal objects from the Treadwell family. And supposedly, one descendant, in particular, doesn’t like when you touch her things. This would be their youngest daughter, Gertrude Tredwell.

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Gertrude’s Ghost

Gertrude was a spinster who lived out her entire Iife inside the house. She was born here in 1840 and died in 1933. Gertrude had seven siblings, two brothers and five sisters. While the rest of her family grew up and got their own families, Gertrude remained alone. Gertrude had one real chance at love, but sadly, the affair was broken up by her Episcopalian father, who refused to let Gertrude marry a poor Irishman. As she grew older and became a spinsterhood, she became more and more eccentric. She seemed to care only for the house, with nothing left in her own life to care for. She was constantly obsessing with ensuring the house maintained its elegance. Even as she herself fell into financial ruin.

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Her sad fate supposedly inspired Henry James‘ novel Washington Square Park, about a woman whose father attempts to thwart her romance with another man. After Gertrude’s death, the house was passed down to her cousin. But, knowing how much Gertrude protected the history of the house, the cousin was able to sell the house and all its contents to the city. Who saved it from foreclosure by turning it into a museum.

Since becoming a museum, the staff have seen the ghostly figure of Gertrude roaming the halls. She loved nothing more than to make loud noises whenever “her” objects were being moved. See if you can spot her in the window, peering down on the street. She is often seen looking out the window, always watching out for her beloved home.

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Furman Hall

Leaving 4th Street behind, we’ll head down to 3rd Street. Walk west down the street and continue walking until you reach the corner of #85 West 3rd Street. This building is the residence for NYU students, Furman Hall. Unfortunately for the students, we find ourselves at another haunted residence. But this building is a real literary treasure of the city. It was here where Edgar Allen Poe lived when he wrote his infamous poem, The Raven.

Preserving Poe’s House

Back then, the buildings along West 3rd Street were made up of a series of brick rowhouses. During Poe’s time in his rowhouse, he lived with his beloved wife (and cousin) Virginia Eliza Clemm Poe. Virginia suffered from Tuberculosis, but this, combined with the stress from Poe’s scandalous activities, caused her untimely death. After her death, Poe moved out of the house and to his cottage in the Bronx. Partly to escape the madness he began to suffer after her death. When the house was set to be demolished in 2001, 70 scholars from NYU fought to preserve it. They wanted to keep Poe’s legacy within New York alive for future literary fans to appreciate for years to come.

But the building was simply in too bad of a state to be restored, and even renovation would be near impossible. As a compromise, the entire front facade of the house was cut out and preserved. It was then integrated into the new building at #85 West 3rd Street. Standing opposite the new building, even those who might not know the whole story can clearly notice the rather strange-looking addition to the facade. You can really see the difference between the salmon-coloured bricks from the original facade and the deeper red-coloured bricks from the new building surrounding it. But both brick patterns were laid out in the rinning-bond pattern to create unity between the two structures. If you walk up to the small front door on the outside of the building, you can see a plaque dedicated to the famous writer explaining the whole story.

Ghost of Edgar Allan Poe

Another architectural element preserved from the original building was a wooden banister. Today, it stands in the entryway to Furman Hall. Many students have reported seeing the ghost of Edgar Allen Poe walking up and down the staircase, holding onto the railing. Often, the students report seeing him one minute and yet gone the next. Edgar Allan Poe was a deeply troubled soul, and the death of his beloved wife marred him perhaps more than all the other events in his life. So it is without a doubt that this place would be an important spot where his spectre would return. Wandering up the stairs, holding onto the railings, and looking out the windows, for that raven, nevermore.

#84 West 3rd Street

Right across the street, at #84 West 3rd Street, you can see the gorgeous facade of an old Fire House. The house has since been transformed into a grand private residence for none other than news anchor Anderson Cooper! But Anderson must be a pretty brave owner as this building is known to be haunted by the ghost of Firefighter Schwartz.

During its time as a firehouse, firefighters would constantly report seeing a man’s ghostly figure hanging from the attic rafters. The story goes that this was the ghost of a firefighter who once worked here in the 1930s. After discovering that his wife was having an affair, he hung himself from the rafters, unable to cope with the betrayal. Ever since, workers reported hearing noises and creaking coming from that attic. As if his body was still swinging from those rafters. The large windows frame the upper-level beam with light at night so keep an eye out to see if you can see the ghost still hanging from above.

Washington Square Park

Walking north, you only have to go so far before you hit Washington Square Park. This site is perhaps one of the most popular destinations for tourists coming to New York City. It’s known for its communal atmosphere, with musicians and artists surrounding the fountain at all times of the day. Entertaining the masses that collect here to sit around the fountain or relax on the benches that surround it.

Potter’s Field

But few tourists, and many locals, might not know when they are walking onto the square because below them lies over 20,000 bodies. Buried right under their feet. In the 1780s, the city purchased a parcel of eight acres of land to be converted into a large potter’s field. A potter’s field was the old term for a common grave site. The bodies buried in these types of graveyards were often those of criminals, the destitute, or even those who could not be buried in a church cemetery for religious reasons.

Yellow Fever Epidemic

But in the late 18th century, the epidemic of yellow fever hit New York City. The spread of the virus was most prevalent in the centre of Manhattan, and it claimed thousands of lives. But what to do with so many bodies? And bodies that were thought to still be infected. The answer was to bury them in graves far outside the city centre in the hopes of preventing further spread. So the potter’s field out in what is now Washinton Square Park was selected as the prime location.

Transformation into Washington Square Park

The cemetery was closed in 1825, and the ground was quickly paved to create the Washington Military Parade Ground. Seemingly overnight, the area was transformed from a haunting burial ground to a fashionable residential area. Fountains, pathways and gardens were added to the beautification of the park. And in 1889, to celebrate the centennial of George Washington’s inauguration, an enormous stone Memorial Arch was built in his memory. Modelled after the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.

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Ghosts of Washington Square Park

But despite the visual changes to the area over the years, there is no use in ignoring the fact that this beautiful parks stands atop a mass grave. And ghosts have certainly not forgotten. People have reported feeling a freezing cold chill run down their spine even on hot summer days. And if you spot a woman dressed in 18th clothes walking by, only to disappear a moment later, you surely have spotted one of the “local” residents.

Another rumour tells the story of a local store owner who would see a woman in dishevelled clothing coming into his shop, begging for milk for her child. After taking the milk, she would quickly run outside. One day, the store owner followed her out. She ran into the park, and the horrified store owner watched as she disappeared into the dirt ground below.

Hanging Tree

But it is not just the bodies of those taken by the virus that haunts the ground here. The park was also home to a great Hangman’s Elm. The old tree still stands on the northwest corner of the park. The elm tree dates back more than 300 years and is considered one of the oldest surviving trees in Manhattan. There are tales that the tree may have been used for public executions, but there is no truth to this rumour. Its spooky appearance perhaps gives it a bad reputation. Only one public execution was ever known to have taken place here in Washington Square park. And it occurred with the use of a gallows, not by the tree.

Rose Butler

The victim of this sole execution was a young woman named Rose Butler. Rose was executed in 1820 for the shockingly benign crime of arson. Rose was only 19 years old and an enslaved woman living in the household of a nearby family. Her only crime was setting fire to the wooden steps of her owner’s house.

Police claimed she had “confessed” to setting the fire in the hopes that she could trap her enslavers inside the house. And burn them alive. But many doubt the truth of this story. Rose was sentenced to death for a minor crime where no one was injured, and the damage to the stairs was barely even noticeable. The fire put out with a small bucket of water. Her unjust death, is a clear marker of the racism that black people were subjected to. And still are to this day. In 1827, slavery in New York was abolished, just seven years after Rose’s execution.

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The Ghost of Rose Butler

Rose was buried in the same spot where she was executed, the last person buried in this potter’s field. Rose’s ghost is known to haunt the park. Some claim to see her swinging from the hangman’s elm. Others have been known to see her apparition walking through the park. Often lingering under the shadow of the elm tree. If you do come across her ghost, be sure to pay her some respect. As the last person buried here she is often thought of as the proprietor of the burial grounds. And so perhaps she is still walking about, monitoring and looking after her fellow departed.

Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire

Walk through the park, east along Washington Place, to #23 where we find the Brown Building and the sight of the old Triangle Shirtwaist Factory. In this very building, the deadliest industrial disaster in the history of the city and one of the deadliest in U.S. history occurred.

As it was originally named, the Asch Building was constructed here in 1900 in a fabulous neo-Renaissance style. It was made in the most popular material of the time, iron and steel. These newly manufactured materials were all the rage as they were meant to be “fireproof.” Unlike the brick and wooden buildings of years past that would instantly be destroyed in a large fire, these iron buildings were thought to be able to withstand even the strongest blaze.

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Triangle Shirtwaist Company

These so-called “fireproof” buildings were very attractive to factory owners, especially those in the textile industry. Fires weren’t uncommon at the time, and the price to either rebuild or renovate after a fire was sometimes enough to bankrupt a company. The Triangle Shirtwaist Company manufactured women’s blouses and occupied the top three floors of the Asch Building. Most employees who worked here were young, Jewish, Italian, Russian, and German female immigrants. And although they came to the United States in search of a better life, they were almost immediately taken advantage of upon arrival. Even today, the garment industry’s underpaid labour is a huge ethical issue. And sadly, in the past, things were even worse.

The Life of a Factory Workers in 1911

Workers here were unpaid, overworked, and often as young as 14 years-old. But worst of all, they were subjected to awful working environments. The upper floors of the building had almost no ventilation, and the heat would have been unbearable in the summers. But worse, freezing cold in the winter. Being a textile factory, the rooms were filled with the most flammable objects you could bring together. Tissue paper, linen, cloth, and cotton cuttings were strung all over the floor and even hung from the ceiling above.

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March 25th, 1911

On March 25th, 1911, someone dropped a single match in the northeast corner of the 8th floor. No doubt, the poor freezing soul was just trying to keep warm on a cold winter’s day or perhaps lighting a cigarette as their only means of relaxation. In seconds the floor was aflame. And spread in an instant throughout the entire factory floor, igniting all the scraps that were strewn across the ground. There could be no better environment for fire to spread.

Women on the 8th floor rushed towards the exit doors. Although there were technically two exit stairwells, one was locked shut as a means to prevent theft by the workers. So only one stairwell was able to be used for escape. The remaining stairwell inside was a death trap. Since the building was always overcrowded, well past legal capacity, the escape became a log jam as people scrambled to get out. Many women were crushed to death in the stairwells, long before the fire even reached them.

Falling to their Deaths

It only took a few minutes before the fire spread to the 9th floor. But with the chaos ensuing below, no one could warn those above. When the fire erupted above, some women were able to escape using the freight elevators. But eventually, these elevators became overcrowded and the elevators unusable. When the women on the 9th and 10th floors went to use the stairwells to escape, they found them consumed with fire. The last option for survival was the fire escape on the outside of the building. But unfortunately, the outer stairs were flimsy and poorly anchored to the iron structure. So when these hoards of women tried to scramble down, the heat and extra weight caused the stairs to collapse, and about 20 women fell to their deaths onto the concrete, exactly where you’re standing below.

The women left upstairs who witnessed this horrifying scene could do nothing but wait. They saw the firefighters arrive on the scene, but their ladders could only reach the 6th floor. While they tried to use their hoses to put out the blaze, the flames were too strong to be so easily snuffed out. Many trapped women standing on the edge of the windows were forced to jump. Killed by the nine-storey fall. Many died from smoke inhalation as they could not escape from the fire.

When the fire was finally put out, there were nothing left inside but ashes. But the building’s structure was undamaged. The iron and steel were indeed “fireproof,” but sadly for the victims, this didn’t apply to them. Over 123 women and young girls died in the blaze, along with 23 men.

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The Aftermath

The owners of the factory, Max Blanck and Isaac Harris, managed to escape the fire. But they were not able to escape prosecution for their negligence. After the traumatic deaths of all these women, a rush of protests occurred throughout the city. These resulted in a huge change in legalization and for better safety standards for workers. It even was the catalyst for the creation of the International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union.

Ghosts of the Fire

Today, students report seeing countless ghosts throughout the building. The ninth floor of the building is where the most people died and is, therefore, the most haunted. The phantom screams of women echo from the top three floors late at night. A famous ghostly couple is often seen in a final embrace beside the window. They are seen standing together before jumping to their deaths, hand in hand. There have been ghostly apparations seen fleeing down the corridors, still trying to outrun the fire.

In the stairwells where so many women were met with a locked door, the door handles still seem to shake and jiggle, as if a phantom hand is still trying to get them open. And in another stairwell, the sound of running footsteps is often heard.

Above the elevator, on the 9th floor, there is a mirror that student says reflects the living and the dead. People have reported seeing a woman dressed in Victorian garb staring back at them in the mirror. But when they turn around, there is no one there. Listen carefully as you stand outside in the dark. People say that you can still hear the ghostly crackle of the fire that burns in the memory of this place forever.

#18 W 11th St

Walk north, turning onto 5th Avenue. Continue until you reach 11th Street. Before heading to the stops on 10th Street, we’re going to make a quick stop at #18 West 11th Street. The building stands out amongst the other classical buildings due to its unique appearance. You might not notice it from far away, but as you get closer, you’ll see how the facade of the house is diagonally indented. But it’s not its architectural uniqueness that brings us here today, but the incredible events which took place in 1970.

The Weather Underground

Back then, the house was owned by James Wilkerson. But at the time, he was letting his daughter, Cathy Wilkerson, stay at the property while he was away. Little did he know that his daughter was a prominent member of the Weather Underground group. The Weather Underground was a radical left-wing militant organization. So prolific at the time, it was named as a domestic terrorist group by the FBI. They originally started as a group of students from the Democratic Society. Their goal was to create a revolutionary party to overthrow American imperialism.

But their intentions turned violent in the 70s, and the group started a targeted bombing campaign. It aimed to destroy government buildings and large banks. It was in this house that several group members were set up, building bombs in the basement. No one could have suspected such activity was going on behind an otherwise innocent-looking middle-class brownstone.

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Bomb Explosion

While assembling the bomb, it was accidentally set off, causing an enormous explosion. Two members in the basement were killed instantly, and another outside the room would die from his wounds later that evening. Cathy had just been returning home and, once witnessing the explosion, fled the scene. She avoided capture for more than a decade but eventually surrendered in 1980.

A fascinating twist to the story was that actor Dustin Hoffman lived just next door! When the explosion happened, Hoffman was captured by the newspaper, fleeing his home. Since his house was one of the adjoining houses, it also caught fire. So Hoffman was caught running in and out of his house, carrying large pieces of precious artwork in the hope of saving them from the flames.

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Restoration of the House

The house was left vacant for years, the scars of the deaths that occurred here too fresh for anyone to want to move right in. Architects went about trying to restore the damage to the home. The heritage department prevented any kind of visual renovations to all the other houses on this street as they pre-date 1845. But since this home has been so badly damaged, there was a dire need for repair. The architects didn’t want to simply restore it back to the exact design of the original home. They felt they needed to honour what happened here not just hide it all away.

So they came up with the idea to create these angular and modernist bay windows that seems to cut into the fabric of the building. Almost exploding out of the frame. It was a pretty hotly contested design, but eventually, after time passed, the house was repurchased. And people began to forget the event ever happened. But the angry ghosts of those radical victims who never got to carry out their horrible deeds are known to still wander the streets. The ghostly echoes of the explosion still reverberate in the glass. So listen closely on hauntingly dark and quiet evenings to the sounds of the house that still cries out.

Church of the Ascension

Head back to 5th Avenue and walk down to the intersection of 5th and 10th, where you’ll find the gothic revival-style Church of the Ascension. One of the church’s unique aspects is that even at night, the stained-glass windows are illuminated. Giving the building a haunting effect, glowing brightly in the darkness. But the windows are not just a beautiful aspect of the church, but the spectral reason that brings us here today.

John La Farge

The windows were designed by artists John La Farge. La Farge was an innovative American painter, muralist, and writer, but most famous for his imaginative stained glass windows. After completing the window design, the church Parish was so impressive that they commissioned him to paint an enormous arched mural. This mural would be the central focus of the entire nave. The canvas he used was enormous, almost as wide as the church itself. When he completed the painting, hanging it up inside proved to be a big challenge. According to the legend, when the installers came to hang the mural, it fell off the wall, crashing down to the floor. It’s said that the same moment the mural crashed to the ground, La Farge passed away. As if the two incidents were eerily linked.

La Farge’s Ghost

La Farge lived just down the street at Tenth Street Studio Building. Ever since his death, multiple residents have seen La Farge’s ghost wandering the down the street and into his beloved church. Lights have been turned on, and doors unlocked. Many people have seen his ghostly figure, and he even appeared to people during seances when called upon. Keep an eye out for his shadow in the illuminated stained glass windows as he is frequently seen floating past.

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The House Of Death

Across the street from the church is perhaps one of the most haunted buildings in all of New York. You’d never known it from the classical brownstone’s appearance, looking just the picture of regal New York architecture. The house was built just before the civil war in the 1850s and has barely changed since. But since it is so old, it has seen its fair share of deaths over the years. There are reports of over 22 different ghosts who are said to appear to the residents of the building. All of these chilling happenings lend to the house’s nickname, The House of Death.

Many people believe that traumatic circumstances are the cause of ghostly appearances. But sometimes, even the presence of ghosts can cause these incidents, causing a knock-on effect. Various paranormal investigators who have visited the building have seen the ghost of a young child, an aborted fetus, a gray cat and a lady dressed in white. But the most famous ghost residing here is that of famous write, Mark Twain. A small bronze plaque is located on the outside of the building to mark Twain’s official stay.

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Twain’s Ghost

Mark Twain lived here for only a year in 1900. But even in that short amount of time, he claimed to have experienced some supernatural occurrences. But Twain was a skeptic, but one night, while sitting near the fire, he saw a piece of wood kindling moving all by itself. Floating in the air. He thought it was caused by a rodent and even shot at the wooden log. Blood appeared from the bullet hole, but no rodent was ever found. Despite being a skeptic, the strange occurrences were enough to cause his quick exodus from the building. Twain died ten years later at age 74 in Connecticut.

In 1930, a mother and daughter moved into the house. They almost immediately experienced the first sighting of Twain’s ghost, sitting near the window. He turned to them and said, “My name is Clemens, and I have a problem here. I gotta settle.” Clearly, despite dying in Connecticut, something was bringing Twain back to this site. Something left unfinished.

Jan Bryant Bartell

Years after Twain’s death, the house became home to actress and writer Jan Bryant Bartell. As soon as she moved in, Bartell began to experience paranormal sightings. This includes noises in the walls, and visions of a ghostly woman in white woman seen in the windows. She also would increasingly smell putrid aromas throughout the house. And could never find the source. But worse than anything else, was this constant feeling of a presence nearby. Even when she was alone in the house, she felt like someone was watching. One day, while searching for this presence, she saw the ghostly figure of Twain himself. He was standing on the stairs, dressed in his white suit. Staring straight thru her.

The Steinberg Case

But the most horrible event inside the House of Death was the murder of a helpless 6-year-old girl. In 1987 former attorney Joel Steinberg beat his adopted six-year-old daughter Elizabeth “Lisa” so badly that she fell into a coma. Unfortunately, little Lisa died in hospital a few days later from her injuries. Despite being convicted of manslaughter, at the time in New York State, first-degree murder applied only to those who killed police officers. Or had committed murder while already serving a sentence for a previous murder. So the jury could only convict Steinberg to the maximum penalty of 8 to 25 years in prison.

Despite NEVER claiming any remorse for the murder, Steinberg was released on parole in 2004 and is still living in Harlem. The relatively short stay in prison is an unjust reality compared to the cruelty of his actions. Today, the young girl’s ghost is known to cause the lights on the floor where she was killed to go on and off at various times when no one is home. A sign that the girl is still there, waiting for real justice to be served.

Emma Lazarus House

Just two doors down, at #18, is the Emma Lazarus House. Emma Lazarus is perhaps best known for her poem, The New Colossus. The poem is emblazoned on a pedestal beneath the Statue of Liberty. The poem goes, “Give me you’re tired, your poor/ Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free.” Emma was a talented child right from the jump. Her father, a Jewish immigrant and wealthy sugar merchant, moved into the Italianate-style residence in 1883. Emma couldn’t attend school as a girl, but she was well taught by many private tutors. And when she was just 20 years old, she began writing poems. Some of which were actually published in newspapers all around New York.

Emma was also very outspoken about the rights and struggles of Jewish immigrants. She aimed to help new immigrants when they moved to the city and immersed herself in helping others. Emma never married; perhaps she already felt like she was a mother to many other families. Sadly, she fell ill at only 38 from what we now suspect to be lymphoma. She died shortly after returning home to New York from a European trip. But she never could find a way to leave her beloved home. And her ghost is known to roam the house halls even today. Her figure is often seen walking past the windows at night, looking out at the street below.

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43 W 10th St

Continue walking east along 10th street until you reach #43. This building was the original location of the old Tenth Street Studio. The Tenth Street Studio was La Farge’s original residence. And the place from which his ghost is often thought to emerge at night. Wandering down the street, heading towards the church. So be sure to keep an eye out for him as you pass by.

The Jefferson Market Library

Stepping out from 10th Street onto 6th Avenue, you are immediately overwhelmed by the sight of the most unbelievable architectural wonders of New York City; the Jefferson Market Library. Although it might look like a church, the building was originally designed in 1870 as a Victorian Gothic courthouse. Unlike today, most courthouses of the time housed their prisons inside the same building. The basements of courthouses were where prisoners awaiting trial would be locked away.

By the 1940s, the courthouse was closed, and the building was saved from demolition by being transformed into a public library. But ever since it became a public space, people have seen the ghost of a woman roaming the library halls. Particularly, she loves to lurk around the fire watcher’s balcony windows and wave to people below. If you spot her, try waving back. Perhaps she is just lonely and yearning for someone to give her back some affection. Many people speculate that she is the ghost of a wrongly accused prisoner who may have died in prison. And who today continues to wander the building, yearning for justice.

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Gay Street

Turn down 6th Avenue, and walk south for one block until you reach Christopher Street. Head east down Christopher Street until you reach the tiny, tucked away lane marked “Gay Street.” Gay Street is one of the most iconic streets in Greenwich Village. But despite what you might immediately think when looking at a street called “gay” at the time when the street was named, the word had nothing to do with homosexuality. It was actually named after the land owner, R. Gay, who was given ownership of the land in 1775. The narrow lane was originally used as a stable alley for horses. But in 1833, the lane was widened, and houses began to be built up around it. Only by coincidence was Gay Street, located in the heart of the Gay and Lesbian neighbourhood that grew in the 1970s and 80s.

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Ghosts of Gay Street

But the haunted nature of the street dates back even before the street had a proper name. Back when the area was still a part of the Dutch Colony, it was owned by Wouter Van Twiller. Twiller built a morgue and brewery in this very spot. As it was then on the city’s outskirts, these two smelly establishments were perfectly suited to be on the fringes. But from day one, death seemed to hang heavy in the streets. With local residents claiming to see the ghosts of the corpses fresh from the morgue still wandering the streets.

The Gay Street Phantom

In the early 20th century, Gay Street became a popular spot for the city’s black residents, many of whom were musicians. And with great music came great parties! During prohibition, Gay Street was a popular spot for speakeasies, as the street was not only off the beaten path but also quite tucked away from the main roads. The parties of the 1920s roared down the narrow lane. And one of the partygoers seems to have never left. They call him the Gay Street Phantom. The Phantom is frequently seen walking down the street dressed in his dapper black cloak and large top hat.

12 Gay Street, Manhattan

The quaint brick townhouse with pale blue shutters at #12 Gay Street was once home to one of the most famous speakeasies; the Pirate’s Den. The Pirate’s Den was opened during prohibition as a theatrical buccaneer-themed establishment and a popular hang-out for then-local Mayor Jimmy Walker. Before he was a mayor, Walker actually wrote the music for broadway shows and his love for the theatre never waned. And neither did his love for chorus girls. Despite being a married man, he became so obsessed with one particular Ziegfeld showgirl, Betty Compton. He was so enamoured with her that he set her up with a small apartment inside #12 where she could live as his mistress and eventually be his wife.

Today, the house is rumoured to be home to Walker’s ghost. The ghost is known to still walks about the house, the upper levels’ floorboards creaking at night when no known is at home on those levels. His spirit must have clung to these streets, wishing to return to a better time when life was all about fun and frivolity. Walker’s time as mayor was marred with scandals and corruption. Life was easier when he was just a broadway tunes writer.

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Marie’s Crisis Café

Walking west, turn down Grove Street to #59, where we find Marie’s Crisis Café. Marie’s Crisis Cafe is a lively piano bar built atop the site of Thomas Paine’s home. Thomas Paine was an English-born political activist. Despite his English origins, he was one of the most influential writers who drove the ideals of the American Revolution into the hearts of the people of New York City. One of his most famous pieces of writing was called the “Crisis Papers,” hence the bar’s name. Shortly after the American Revolution in 1809, Paine died inside his beloved home. Despite all his work to fight for the revolution, his oppositional opinions on institutionalized religion drove him to be ostracized by his peers. And sadly, only six people attended his funeral.

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After Paine’s death, the area around the house fell into disrepute, and the home was transformed into a popular brothel. It wasn’t until the late 1850s, during prohibition, that the building served as a speakeasy. After prohibitions were dismantled, the bar continued its operations, this time more public-facing. It continues to be one of the most entertaining places in town. With hundreds of people gathering nightly to sing Broadway tunes around a grand piano. Paine’s ghost is known to still haunt the building. But happily, unlike at the end of his life when he drove everyone away, today he is surrounded by dozens of friendly faces inside Marie’s Crisis Café.

One if by Land, Two if by Sea

Walk across 7th Street, which cuts diagonally across the village. Take a turn east down Barrow street towards the restaurant named One if by Land, Two if by Sea. The building now houses one of New York’s most illustrious and elegant restaurants, but when it was first built in 1790, it was used as a horse stable. But not just any stable; it was the stable house for none other than now star of the Broadway stage, Aaron Burr. The current restaurant owners pay tribute to the American politician by hanging horseshoes, hitching posts and other antiques they found within the house on the restaurant’s walls.

Aaron Burr’s Home in New York

Aaron Burr owned a swath of land just a few streets west at #17 Commerce Street, but while that home was being built, he moved into the carriage house with his daughter after his wife died. His daughter, Theodosia, was the apple of his eye. And the two spent many good years together inside this quaint home. But sadly, after that fateful dual against Alexander Hamilton, which ended in Hamilton’s untimely death, Burr fell sharply out of the popular political circles in New York. Burr was forced to sell off much of his property, including the carriage house.

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After its sale, the house was converted into an engine house for the next-door firehouse. And like many of the buildings we’ve been to throughout our Greenwich Village ghost tour, in the 1890s, the house was (you guessed it) transformed into a brothel and speakeasy. This building was especially useful as a speakeasy because it housed an underground passageway. The passage provided access to the shores of the Hudson River. This meant it was easy to sneak in and out of illegal goods. It wasn’t until the 1970s that the home was purchased as a restaurant and opened back up to the public.

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The Ghosts of Aaron and Theodosia Burr

But even after all this passage of time and changing faces of the building, Aaron Burr and his beloved daughter are known to meet here in the afterlife. It was here that they both shared so many warm memories, and it is no surprise that they would want to return. Theodosia also suffered a terrible fate. On her way home to New York, the ship she sailed home in disappeared. Many people think pirates kidnapped the girl; others believe the ship sank in a terrible storm. Whatever the case, her body was never recovered, which drove Burr into a despair from which he could never rebound.

Theodosia’s ghost is known to wear a long black gown and stand at the top of the stair, looking down at the guests below. She is also known to go up to some women inside and pull at their beautiful earrings. Perhaps trying to acquire them for herself.

Burr, on the other hand, is perhaps slightly more angry at all these people seemingly taking up residence inside “his” house. Waiters have been known to be shoved down the stairs late at night or see plates flying across the walls as if thrown by spectral hands. Lights are known to flicker on and off after the restaurant has closed. Picture frames are often found off kilter in the morning when the manager opens the restaurants despite no one being inside.

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Chumley’s

Continue walking west along Barrow Street, turning north on Bedford Street to #86 Bedford Street. Here we find ourselves outside the blank stone facade of what was once of the most popular bars in the city; Chumley’s. Long before it hosted such notable figures as Ernest Hemingway, John Steinbeck and F. Scott Fitzgerald, the building served as the community’s blacksmith back in 1831. It wasn’t until 1922 that Leland Stanford Chumley converted the building into his covert speakeasy.

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86’ed

There isn’t even a remnant of any old signage indicating where the old bar once was because the original speakeasy had to be as low profile as possible. Even after prohibition was abolished, they kept up the tradition, and only those “in the know” could find the bar. It is rumoured that the term “86’ed” actually comes from life at Chumley’s. During prohibition, the speakeasies paid off police certain officers to ensure they would be informed about any raids in the areas. The officers would call the bartender and tell them to “86 your customers” as a code word to get them to evacuate the customer before police arrived. They used the word “86” since back then, the address of #86 Bedford was actually the back door to the bar. The primary entrance was located on the other side, in the Pamela Courtyard.

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The Ghosts of Chumley’s

The first person known to die inside the fabled bar was writer Clinton Curtis. He was involved in a bar brawl that resulted in his throat being cut by an angry seaman. The cause of the brawl? A rather intense game of chess, of all things! Curtis’ ghost frequents the bar, still looking for chess partners to play with.

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After Leland Chumley’s death, the bar was inherited by his wife, Henrietta. But Henrietta fell victim to the call of the alcohol that flowed so freely inside the bar. She died in 1960, sitting inside her favourite booth. Her ghost is still said to haunt that very same booth today. Still drunk as a skunk, her spirit is often heard knocking over shelves, smashing glasses and even drinking up half-empty beers left on the tables.

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Chumley’s was forced to close in 2007 after a load-bearing wall collapsed inside. After extensive renovations, it reopened shortly in 2016. But was forced to close its doors once more during the Covid pandemic. The thirsty ghosts still reside inside, awaiting Chumley’s triumphant return, when they can dine with the living once more!

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The Church of St. Luke in the Fields

Crossing over Grove Street towards Hudson Street, you find yourself face to face with the rather quaint exterior of the Church of St. Luke in the Fields. The church dates back to 1820, when it was built in the image of an old English village church by the local community around here. The church was named after Saint Luke, the patron saint of physicians and surgeons. 

Saint Luke

As mentioned when visiting Washington Square Park, Greenwich Village was a safe refuge from yellow fever that plagued the inner city. So the church was built in St. Luke’s name in the hopes he would protect this new community. Later, in the 1980s, at the height of the AIDS crisis, the church once more did right by its namesake. They created the AIDS Project, which provided Saturday dinners and weekend teas to tens of thousands of people afflicted by the disease.

Ghost of Clement Clarke Moore

The most famous ghostly resident whose grave can be found in the cemetery is of Clement Clarke Moore. You might not immediately recognize the name, but you will know the story he penned, “Twas the Night Before Christmas.” Moore even first read the poem to the congregation here at the church. Moore loved his church. He was the only child of a wealthy family, so he spent much of his fortune funding the church. He even used the wood from his orchard to help rebuild the church after a fire.

After his death, many claimed to see his spirit inside the church every Sunday. But Moore is the definition of a “friendly ghost.” Many liken his personality to that of Santa Claus himself. Many have seen his spectre singing here at Christmas along with the carolers, as the festive season was always his favourite time of year. People have also reportedly heard the organ being played late into the night. Moore banging out Christmas tunes which echo throughout the empty nave. So listen closely as you pass by to see if you can hear him at play.

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White Horse Tavern

Continue north along Hudson Street towards the old White Horse Tavern. The White Horse Tavern touts itself as the second oldest bar in New York, opening in 1880 under the name Longshoremen’s Bar. But the tavern wouldn’t fall into the history books until the 1950s and 60s, when it became a popular hangout for New York City’s most prolific writers and musicians. Being frequented by Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg, Norman Mailer, Bob Dylan and Jim Morrison.

The Ghost of Dylan Thomas

But most notably for our purposes, the White Horse Tavern is where people often see the ghost of poet Dylan Thomas. When Thomas was visiting New York, he came to this tavern and drank over 18 shots of whiskey. It was a triumphant record for him. He later that night returned to the Chelsea Hotel, bragging about his accomplishment at the famed White Horse Tavern.

But that would be one of the last happy memories for Thomas, as he was suffering from a severe lung infection. Only days after visiting the White Horse Tavern, he died at St. Vincent’s Hospital. Thomas’ ghost is known to return to the tavern, sitting at the bar, sneaking shots of whiskey. Perhaps trying his best to beat his own record. He even has a favourite corner table where guests have most frequently seen his spirit. This is a great place to stop in for a drink to see if you can spot him for yourself.

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Waverly Inn

The last stop on our tour can be found after a short walk east along West 11th Street. At #16 Bank St., we see the picturesque brick exterior housing the old Waverly Inn. The house was initially built in 1884 and served as a tavern and a bordello. Surprise, surprise. After the original tavern closed, the building was converted into a carriage house for the wealthy owners of the homes nearby.

But, the 1920s prohibition era brought the saloon back to life, reopening as a “teahouse.” Teahouses were the nickname many people gave to keep speakeasies a secret. It was one of the most upscale speakeasies of the time. It was even frequented by American poets Robert Frost and Edna St. Vincent May. In 2006, the restaurant was purchased by Vanity Fair editor-in-chief Graydon Carter. Carter would transform the restaurant from a classic tavern to full-on 5-star dining with a wait list full of celebrity names!

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The Firebug Ghost

But the most frequent guest at the Waverly Inn is their seasoned spectre. Many reports see the apparition of a man dressed in a 1920s-style waistcoat and black top hat. He is often seen lurking in the shadows around the inn’s many old fireplaces. But he doesn’t just like to look; many people have nicknamed the spectre the “firebug” ghost as he is known to light the tinders left in the fireplaces when no one is looking. The fire pokers are seen moving as if by phantom hands as he tends to his beloved fires around the building.

Unfortunately, he is not always so careful with the fires he lights. In 1997, a fire broke out in the middle of the night inside the restaurant. After firefighters arrived and put out the blaze, they could find no sign of accelerants to have started the fire. No electrical outlet had sparked, and there were no combustibles on the scene that could have started the fire. They were left totally perplexed, and yet to everyone who had seen the firebug ghost before, they knew it must have been him! Since 1997, more fire alarms and sprinkler systems have been installed to ensure that whatever he gets up to in the middle of the night doesn’t cause an end to this historical establishment.

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This brings us to the end of our Greenwich Village Ghost Tour. I really hope you learned something new along the way, and the stories we told sent a shiver down your spine. Please let me know in the comments if you were lucky enough to see one of the resident hauntings on your city tour. Or any other spectres you came across on your trip to the Big Apple.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Ultimate Self-Guided Greenwich Village Ghost Tour, New York City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Museo Casa Estudio has been remarkably preserved and restored. It is open for visitors to come inside and explore, a chance to step into the intimate spaces where Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo painted, entertained and simply existed together, as apart. Come with us as we explore the entirety of the Museo Casa Estudio and learn more about the artists who lived here and the man who built this revolutionary property!

Guide to the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo

1. Location & Access
2. Admission & Hours
3. About Diego Rivera
4. About Frida Kahlo
5. Juan O'Gorman
6. Modernist Architecture
   • Functionalism
7. Designing the Casa Estudio
   • Life inside the Casa Estudio
   • Studio as Museum
8. Exterior Foyer
   • The Bathrooms
9. Diego's House
   • 2nd Floor Bedroom
10. Diego's Studio
    • Mezzanine
    • Rooftop
    • The Bridge of Diego and Frida's Love
11. Frida's Studio
    • What the Water Gave Me
12. The O'Gorman Guest House
    • Dining Room Mural

Location & Access

The Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo is located in the neighbourhood of San Angel, in the far south of the city centre. To access the museum, you can take an Uber or taxi directly into the district’s centre. The Uber fare costs about $7 USD and takes about 20-30 minutes (depending on traffic) from the centre of Mexico City. If you’d prefer to take public transit, you can hop on the metro towards Miguel Angel de Quevedo Station. From here, you’ll have to change to one of the city’s metro buses that will take you directly into the Altavista suburbs where the museum is located.

Admission & Hours

The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 11 am to 5 pm. The price of admission is $40 pesos for adults, but children under 13 and seniors are free. Admission is free for everyone on Sundays.

About Diego Rivera

Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo are perhaps two of the most well-known artists to come out of Mexico. It is perhaps no coincidence that the two geniuses would find themselves caught in a passionate web of love, art and fiery drama. Diego Rivera was born in 1886 in Guanajuato City, Mexico. When he was born, he came out of the womb along with his twin brother. Sadly, his brother Carlos died two years after they were born. Twins have this unspoken, deep, almost soulful connection with each other and this loss so early in Diego’s life perhaps touched the young boy with trauma and pain that it seems many infamous artists carry with them. Diego started to draw at only three, just after his brother died. Perhaps as a means to express his grief.

Mexican Muralism

His talents only grew from then, and at the age of ten, he went to study art at the San Carlos Academy of Fine Arts in Mexico City. Rivera travelled to Europe after flourishing at the school in Mexico City. It was there he would refine his unique style of painting under the influence of modern artists like Pablo Picasso and looked to the works of Paul Gauguin and Henri Matisse for inspiration. Rivera returned to Mexico City in 1922 as he had been commissioned by the government to head up their new muralism program. The project was created to promote aimed to National pride through murals that told the history of Mexico that even the working class, illiterate masses could interpret.

About Frida Kahlo

While Diego was painting murals all over Mexico City, Frida Kahlo was just a young girl with her own struggles. Frida was born in 1907 in Coyoacan, a small neighbourhood just outside the centre of Mexico City. Similar to Rivera, Frida had her own ordeals early on in life. She was afflicted with polio at only six years old. This meant that her right leg would always be shorter and thinner than the left, a disability that would affect her for the rest of her life.

But Frida never let this illness defeat her spirit despite being kept isolated at home at such a young age. She looked up to her artistic father, who was a famous photographer, and it was him that inspired her to start painting. While at home, her father taught her things she would never learn so early in school, everything from philosophy, literature and, of course, art and photography. When she went back to school, she flourished, as learning was something that truly excited her.

The Bus Accident

But just as her life was taking off once more, she was hit, literally, by another setback. On her way back from school on the day, in the centre of Mexico City, just a few blocks from where Rivera was painting, the bus she was riding on was hit by a streetcar. A large iron handrail pierced her pelvis, broke her spine in three places and crushed her right leg, as well as a litany of other injuries. She stayed in the hospital for months and had to be put into a plaster corset to aid her spine and chest bones in healing. This meant months of bedrest with nothing to do. Nothing to do but paint. Once more, her father encouraged her to turn her pain into art. Despite these life-altering incidents, she responded with the same vigour for the life she refused to lose despite these accidents.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

After recovering, Frida discovered the thing she wanted to do for the rest of her life, and that was to paint. She was insistent on becoming the best painter she could be, so she sought out the advice of the greatest Mexican painter she knew, Diego Rivera. Rivera was immediately taken aback by this energetic and bold girl and her obvious talent. Despite being married already (to two different women), Frida and Diego started a relationship. They would be married in 1929 at a wedding her parents entitled “the marriage between an elephant and a dove.“

The couple were immediately taken out of Mexico City and moved to the United States. Rivera had to paint several commissions in San Francisco, Detroit, and New York for the famous Rockefellers. But they knew they would return home to Mexico City and wanted a beautiful hacienda to come back to. This is where their friend, architect and artist Juan O’Gorman would come in!

Juan O’Gorman

O’Gorman had been studying functionalism, inspired by the Swiss designer Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, known as Le Corbusier. O’Gorman was enthusiastic about bringing this modernist style to his home in Mexico City. He saw Mexico City as being a hub for modern thinking and exquisite architecture. The old Hacienda Goicoechea, now the famous San Angel Inn, had sold off the large expanse of their land to become residential housing. O’Gorman loved the neighbourhood and purchased the land currently being used as the tennis courts of the nearby hotel. 

Modernist Architecture

O’Gorman had plans to turn these two plots into the first modernist home in Mexico City. But when he displayed his plan it was very controversial. Most homes here are super traditional, fitting into that 18th century colonial style, and this new modernist vision wasn’t an appealing sight to the neighbours. But despite them turning their noses up at this new technique, O’Gorman solidered on. He built one home as a proof of concept. This home still stands today as the Museo Casa Estudio’s guest house.

Functionalism

Functionalism was a style defined by buildings that were designed around their purpose and function and revolted against excess decoration that didn’t serve a objective. In many European functionalist buildings, glass, steel and concrete were essential elements in their construction. In Mexico, in addition to these materials, O’Gorman wanted to incorporate clay and natural plants into the buildings. Instead of building fences out of wood or wrought iron, he planted rows of tall cacti along the roadside. These elements were native to the environment and followed the functionalist ethos. He would use other plants to create borders that looked almost like they had naturally grown up around the house.

Another element significant in functionalism is using practical elements as expressive decoration. A great example of this is the exposed helicoidal staircases that swirl up the sides of the houses. The stairs are a means of access and yet bring an interesting spacial element to the house’s exterior. Water tanks and drainage pipes also provide dynamic structural details around the house. These were all painted a contrasting orange colour and created this framing effect. Instead of looking too industrial, they manage to have their own architectural charm. But they are, in fact, used for rainwater drainage so are not just ornamental.

Diego’s house features a saw-tooth roof design. This design, while it might look decorative, is actually used to allow natural light into the interior while blocking out the heat of direct sun exposure. This was a technique popular inside industrial factories as early as the 16th century, before electiral lighting could be used to illuminate the interiors. It remains today as one of the most ingenious techniques to bring natural light into the interiors.

Designing the Casa Estudio

When Diego and Frida saw what O’Gorman had created, they quickly decided to purchase the entire property and commissioned him to build them twin buildings. Each one would act as both a residence and a studio, unique to each artist. The two buildings were designed as a pair but also as two oppositional designs. Tied together through the consistent elements of functionalism and a bridge that brought the building together at the top.

Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. On the other hand, Frida’s studio is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her Casa Azul. Both studios feature floor-to-ceiling windows, giving the interior spaces an indoor/outdoor feeling. But are protected from the elements, meaning you can paint inside while feeling like you’re out en plein air. The ideal of these twin structures is eerily similar to Diego and his brother Carlos. Connected together despite the fates of their lives going in two very different directions.

Life inside the Casa Estudio

Construction on the houses ended in 1932, and the couple moved in 1934. Diego and Frida lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul. Diego kept the house and continued living and painting here during their separation. After their divorce, the couple actually got back together, only 9-months later. But even after this reconciliation, Frida preferred to remain in the Casa Azul.

After Frida’s passing in 1954, Diego would continue to live in the studio house full time. He treasured his time in his home until his death on November 24, 1957. Rivera died in his studio, and his body remained there as friends and family came to sit vigil inside to mourn the loss. After this, his body was moved to the Palacio de Bellas Artes for his grand state funeral. 

Studio as Museum

After his death, Diego’s daughters inherited the houses. When they moved in, their went about drastically changing some of the most iconic aspects of the house and making many ugly additions. They removed the cacti and installed a stone fence. They also demolished the bridge that connected the buildings, one of the most important aspects of the house. Years later, the houses were gifted to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes to be enjoyed by the public. Restoration began in 1995 to bring back the original nature of the homes and preserve their architectural value. All the additions and fencing were removed, and the house seemed to breathe a sigh of relief.

Exterior Foyer

One of the most wonderful things about functionalist-style houses is that they sit on stilts. These stilts are called pilotis, slender columns that support an upper level. When you walk into the property, the entire exterior courtyard feels like an open-air foyer. But with wonderful shaded areas under those upper levels to escape the sun’s heat (essential in Mexico City!) This open air foyer really exposes the incredible landscape architecture that O’Gorman created around the property. It feels like a gorgeous garden floating below.

Another enchanting thing to study while walking around the exterior are the exposed staircases. The spiral staircase which curls its way up the side of Diego’s studio is a wonderful geometric cement column contrasted against the solid red walls. The stairs almost have this musical-like curvature that flows out of the house.

The only exterior staircase in Frida’s house leads from the second-floor studio up to the rooftop. She would use this pathway to cross the thin bridge which connected to Diego’s house. Especially considering her frail condition and problems with her legs, it’s impressive she would brave such a dangerous-looking crossing. Especially when it originally was designed without any handrails!

The Bathrooms

Standing in the coutyard, you’ll see a smaller blue building, set behind Frida’s house. It looks almost like a minature version of her studio. Today, this tiny structure houses the public washrooms that visitors can use during their stay. Although you might think this was an addition when the museum was built, this building is original! It was designed by O’Gorman as a photography studio meant for Frida’s father. Even now, just as then, nothing is wasted. Functionalism reigns eternal.

Diego’s House

You enter Diego’s House first, via the exterior spiral staircase. The large, mostly empty room you enter on the first floor was used initially for Diego to display the artworks he had up for sale. His personal art gallery. Today, the space houses just a few remaining pieces from Diego’s collections of Pre-Columbian artifacts. Today the majority of his collections are housed in the Museo Anahuacalli.

During their marriage, the Museo Anahuacalli was a pipe dream of both Rivera and Kahlo. They both adored collecting these precious pieces of Mexican history and wanted to share them with the public. Rivera had started construction on this project just before his death. But it was O’Gorman who would see it through as the chief architect in charge of achieveing Rivera’s vision. Much of Rivera’s muralism was influenced by these pre-Columbian figurines. In Rivera’s art we can see the intense facial expressions and powerful geometric shapes reflected in these figurines.

2nd Floor Bedroom

Head back up the stairs, either using the smaller interior staircase or the outer curved stairs. The second level is where we find the painter’s studio and bedroom. The little room you’ll see upon entering is Rivera’s tiny bedroom. In functionalist buildings proportions of bedrooms were much smaller than we would expect. This was because they were seen as rooms only used for sleep and therefore didn’t require a great use of space. This preserved more capacity in areas like the studio which was where the artist spent most of his time.

Plus, the painter wasn’t a fan of sleeping unless it was with women. The room is designed to have only a tiny row of windows along the ceiling. This allowed only a small amount of light to flow inside. This meant the artist could get some sleep no matter what time of day.

The room is still laid out like it’s awaiting the return of it’s owner. Diego’s shoes are sitting on the floor as if he is about to get out of bed. Besides this, there are also his bedpans left here since his death. Atop the bedframe is Diego’s suitcase, as he was a world traveller. On the bedside table, you can also see a collection of his keychains and wallets. All the while the room is watched over by a series of papier-mache figures.

Diego’s Studio

Stepping from the hallway, make your way into the great studio. Immediately you’ll be overcome by the light that pours into theroom from the double-height windows on the north wall. From inside you can also study the effect of the saw-tooth roof windows that fill even the ceiling with light. Diego’s studio is bursting with natural energy. The trees on the other side of the windows almost look like they’re growing inside the house. The separation from indoors to outdoor is only a thin veil in here.

The studio still contains the original brushes and pigments which Rivera used to make his murals. They sit beside his easel like he is about to walk back into the room mid-painting. The painting on the easel is a portrait of Dolores Del Rio, a famous Mexican actress. Diego once said of Del Rio;

The most beautiful, the most gorgeous of the west, east, north and south. I’m in love with her as 40 million Mexicans and 120 million Americans who can’t be wrong.

Diego Rivera

Books, artisan ceramics and pottery, and little curios line the green painted shelves at the back of the room. Glass jars are silhouetted against the window panes. Inside powdered pigment still sit, waiting to be turned into paints. Diego’s studio really feels like a highly intimate space. Each one of the objects was bought by Diego as they caught his eye or gifted to him by a friend and lovingly put on display to be treasured. One of the most interesting decor found on the shelves is a copy of Diego Rivera’s death mask. Allowing him to still watche over all those and anyone who enters.

Judases

Filling the corners of the studio are these huge papier-mâché figures. Images of devils, skeletons and expressive people lean against the walls like inanimate puppets. These are called “Judases” and are popular formed of Mexican folk art. They were originally created as a part of the celebrations before Easter. The figures were made to look like the image of Judas, the Traitor. They would then take this resemblance of the great betrayer and set him on fire, to rid the world of his evil spirit. As years passed and the tradition became more popular, the figures began to take the forms of other, also unfavourable people or things. This could be anything from images of devils, demons, politicians, criminals and, in some cases, even disliked shopkeepers. Today the papier-mache dolls are stuffed with fireworks and blown up on the street. Much to the enjoyment of the onlookers.

But Rivera didn’t blow them up. Instead, he kept them as souvenirs of the local artisans. Although the simple craftsmen who made them might not have seen them as high art, Diego saw these as treasures to keep forever. Their highly expressive faces now look out over visitors from all studio corners.

Mezzanine

Walking back up the stairs, you enter the small mezzanine that looks over the studio. A small table between the two chairs is set in the corner, the perfect place to relax and watch the great painter at work. On the table is a portrait of Diego’s beloved, Frida. One can imagine this would have been where Frida herself would have stood to look down on her husband after coming over from her side of the house. Sometimes finding him hard at work…and other times, and sadly so, in the throes of passion with another woman, much to her dismay. In fact, it may have been right here that Frida discovered Diego cheating on her with her younger sister Cristina. There is no doubt that this house was a place of intensity from all angles.

The mezzanine is also home to Rivera’s office, just in the corner, beside the door to the rooftop. His green leather desk features a old phone, a typewriter and more pre-Colombian art covering the walls.

Rooftop

From the small office, you step out onto the rooftop, the neighbourhood of San Angel opening up all around you. During the Springtime, the purple flowers of the Jacaranda trees light up the skyline.

The Bridge of Diego and Frida’s Love

Although Frida and Diego had a passionate relationship, this firey love also resulted in both positive and negative intensity. When things were good, they were great, but when it was bad, it was very, very bad. So for both their sakes, having a separate working space where one could get away from the other was imperative. But the two buildings are connected by a large bridge on the top. O’Gorman named the bridge “the bridge of Diego and Frida’s love.” A symbol that, at the end of the day, they still found a way to come together and connect. Even when things were dire.

A narrow bridge connects the two buildings, the red-painted railings all you have to hold onto as you cross over. While Frida’s staircase has been closed down, too dangerous for the public to continually cross, you can imagine how the two lovers must have met up here to look out over the city and take in the night air. Even today the rest of the buildings in the area remain at a lower level to the rooftop of the Museo Casa Estudio, making you feel like you have this private oasis all to yourself.

Frida’s Studio

To get into Frida’s studio, you need to walk back down to the courtyard and enter on the ground level. Sadly, there is not much to see inside Frida’s house. Much of what once existed here has been moved to the Frida Kahlo museum in the Casa Azul. If you’re interested in learning more about the life and art of Frida Kahlo, you should definitely check it out, just over in Coyoacan. But there is one reason to go into the house: see the bathroom on the second floor. Sounds odd but stay with me!

What the Water Gave Me

This is where Frida lay when she was inspired to paint “What the Water Gave Me” in 1938. Like toys in a child’s bathtub, Frida painted the images that swam in her mind on top of the water. Memories of her life float around her; the only slice of reality is the cast iron bathtub framing the scene and her little toes sticking out of the water. The bathtub which inspired this scene can still be found in the house. If you’re a bather like me, you’ll know sitting in the bath really is where the imagination comes alive. It’s the best place to sit and think. Shower people will disagree with me I’m sure, but for me, a bath is a perfect way to relax and reflect. And it seems like Frida agrees.

The O’Gorman Guest House

The third large building on the property, located slightly below the other two homes, was the couple’s guest house. It was here that family and friends could stay in their own private apartments. But when the house was being built, it was used almost as a test for O’Gorman’s vision. To separate this house from the main studios, you’ll see another line of cacti fencing and steps leading down, surrounded by lush agave plants.

Construction on his house started in 1929, two years before the dual studio. The most impressive part of the building is the study on the first floor. Three of the four walls inside this part of the house are covered in floor-to-ceiling glass panels. And in fact, the entire glass wall opens up like a giant window. It’s pretty dangerous by today’s standards, as you can just walk right off, but what an impact it makes! The windows open up the space, and it feels like you’re floating in the air. The panels of glass are slightly more opaque on the lower four panels to give some privacy to the interior while still filling it with light.

The exterior ground level connects to the study via a wide-sweeping spiral staircase. Once more, without handrails. Looks gorgeous but can’t be very practical. A more private (and safe for visitors) internal staircase takes guests inside the private spaces which contain a small bedroom, bathroom, dining room and kitchen.

Dining Room Mural

One of the other exciting things to study here in the house is the remnants of the dining room mural that was once painted onto the walls. The mural was called “There is quite a difference between philosophy and science,” painted by O’Gorman. It depicts a stunning and vibrant Mexican landscape dotted with images of science and industry. On the left of the frame, there is an image of a fragile skeleton. This is juxtaposed with a beautiful naked Mexican woman who sits opposite. She sets aside a cup bursting with gorgous fresh fruits. The message is that one must have progress to flourish and grow. Otherwise, you will wither and die, like the old skeleton.

The fresco was only discovered in 2012 when a restoration team found traces of the original mural. When the house was sold off after Diego’s death, the mural was removed from the wall, purchased by the Banco Nacional de México for its private collection. Today you can see a photograph of the real painting beside the sketches found on the house’s walls. While I’m sure it’s well preserved in the bank’s museum, it would be more impressive to see it in situ here in the dining room. Maybe one day!

Thank you for joining us on this self-guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The Museo Casa Estudio is a wonderfully immersive space to explore, and I hope this guide helped you learn more about all the secrets hidden in plain sight. Let me know in the comments what your favourite discovery was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Everything you Need to Know About the Incredible Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Truthful, this isn’t my favourite part of town. I’m not a luxury gal, I’m definitely more hipster than heiress. But after avoiding the area I finally made the effort to check it out and was amazed at what I found! There are some really incredible gems out here if you know where to look. But even I was wrapped up in the spell that is Polanco.

Leaning in Exploring Luxury

I made it a point to check out some of the luxury shopping and suddenly I understood, at least partially, what all the fuss was about. As someone who usually just buys her perfume at Lush, I was blown away by a hedonistic shopping experience at Xinu! I even came out with my first ever luxury perfume purchase! One of the greatest parts about a trip to Mexico City is that because you’ll eat at so many low-priced restaurants, you can afford that one-time splurge. We also made a point to get reservations at Pujol. This was my first time eating at a Michelin Star restaurant. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and one I will never forget! 

So if you’re like me and you’re looking to check out Polanco, but step past more than just the fancy shops, come with me on our Self Guided Tour of the luscious tree-lined street of Polanco! And not to worry! Polanco has more than just 5-star restaurants. There is also plenty of cheap eats, free entertainment and incredible sights found along the way.

Table Of Contents

1. Location & Access
2. History
3. Where to Stay?
4. Walking Tour
6. Avenue Horacio
7. Plaza Uruguay
8. Av. Isaac Newton
9. Parque Lincoln
10. Tianguis Parque Lincoln
11. El Moro
12. Cafebrería El Péndulo
13. Pasaje Polanco
14. Avenida Presidente Masaryk
15. La Casa del Pastor
16. Shopping in Polanco
17. Americas Park
18. St. Augustine Parish
19. TANE Instagram Wall
20. El Turix
21. Iglesia de San Ignacio de Loyola
22. El Palacio de Hierro Polanco
23. Soumaya Museum
24. Dining in Polanco
25. Autocinema Coyote

Location & Access

Polanco is located north of Paseo de la Reforma and just south of Avenida Ejercito Nacional. To the east and west Polanco sandwiches between Avenida Mariano Escobedo and Boulevard Manuel Avila Camacho. You can always easily Uber in and out of Polanco but if you want to take the subway to Metro Polanco. The Metro Polanco station is located right beside our first stop on the tour!

History

The Name ‘Polanco’

Long before the Spanish arrived, what is now known as “Mexico City” was first the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan. During those fertile years, a great river passed through what is now Avenue Campos Elisios in Polanco. In the 16th century, after the conquest, the land here was gifted to Hernán Cortés by the King of Spain. Cortes took control and named the river after the Spanish Jesuit Juan Alfonso de Polanco. The Polanco family were considered almost royalty and were highly regarded members of the board of King of Spain. A majority of the family members travelled to Mexico City as newly created “officers of the Crown”. This is where we get the name of the neighbourhood today. Sadly, the river was lost when the Spanish drained the valley to make more room for expansion. But the name lives on.

Polanco Farms

As time went on, the land became occupied by farmers. It was primarily used to plant mulberry trees and breed silkworms. The 16th-century Hacienda de Los Morales, one of the largest Polanco farmsteads, was established. We can even visit the old homestead today as it is still standing on the neighbourhood’s west side. It is now occupied by an incredible restaurant where you can dine inside a piece of history.

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20th Century

The area really only came into being as we know it today in the 1930s. The rural farmland was redeveloped by the enterprising Aleman family. They foresaw the need for further residential expansion in the city. Soon, Polanco was covered in large mansions with pristine tree-lined streets.

During this time, various foreign communities also began migrating to this area of town. As it was brand new they were able to establish little community circles, Even today you can find vibrant Jewish, Spanish, German and Lebanese pockets inside Polanco. Polanco is where the majority of the city’s working synagogues can still be found.

Spanish Revival Polanco

The most popular architectural style for these new mansions was Californian colonial or Spanish Revival style. These houses are easily identifiable by their curved arches, white stucco walls, terracotta roof tiles, wrought iron work railings and window grilles, and fantastical courtyards with expansive arcades. You’ll see many examples of this along Campos Elíseos, Avenida Jules Verne and Champs Elysées.

Introduction of Modernism

Later on in the 1950s, we saw the explosion of functionalist style defined by functional building materials and low levels of ornamentations. Many buildings are nothing more than concrete slabs, steel sheets, and exposed wood beams. We can see examples of this with buildings like the National Conservatory of Music, the Franco-Mexican Lyceum, and the Spanish Hospital.

The Population Boom

The boom of population expansion in Polanco didn’t occur until after the 1960s. After the previously elite neighbourhoods of Roma and Condesa began to open up to lower-class families with the introduction of rent-controlled apartments, the upper class of those barrios were looking for greener pastures. Although there was still some free real estate, the solution to the large influx of people was to introduction luxury high-rise residential buildings. These were first introduced in the west end where large wide multi-lanes streets were built around these huge multi-storey apartments.

Mid-Century Modern

But my favourite aspect of Polanco’s architecture is the rise of mid-century design. In anticipation of the 1968 Olympics in Mexico City there were many new hotels built to accommodate the influx of visitors. During this time the cult of personalities would soon return to the streets of Polanco. Most notable is the Camino Real Polanco Hotel. This hotel became an icon of the Mexican Modernism movement. This style featured geometric shapes, bright, bold colours, sloping low-rise structures reminiscent of Aztec, pre-hispanic structures. While the Camino Real was the first of this kind of design, years later, the experimentation of Mexican Modernism would continue in buildings like the Museo Jumex, Sala de Arte Publico Siqueiros, Luis Barragán’s Casa Barragán, Juan O’Gorman’s Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo’s Studio House and the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) Campus.

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Where to Stay?

Camino Real Polanco Mexico $$

The Camino Real Polanco is a beautiful hotel/museum designed by renowned architect Ricardo Legorreta. The space opened its doors to the public on July 25th, 1968. It was famous for combining modern features with shapes reminiscent of pre-hispanic pyramids when it opened. Elements from these merge to create an architectural masterpiece! There is something so nostalgic about the 60’s decor, which is so atmospheric. Plus, as it is not a high-end luxury hotel, the rooms come at a reasonable price for the area! If you have a little more cash to spend, book one suite as the retro decor is incredible. The view out towards the best architectural features of the hotel is wonderfully highlighted.

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Orchid House Polanco $$$

Nothing feels more like Mexican royalty than a stay at the Orchid House Polanco. The Orchid House provides visitors with the exquisite feeling of being at home with the comforts of a hotel. Hidden away inside a 100-year-old mansion, the hotel is filled with blue and coloured stained glass, antique barro floors hand-painted with images of Don Quijote and Shakespeare. There are also neoclassic mouldings and rich, traditional antique pink cantera stone. Each room is exquisitely designed and features textiles and handmade decorations from local artisan communities.

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Walking Tour

To start the perfect morning in Polanco, you must head over to is owned and operated by Chef Enrique Olvera. Olvera is infamous in the Mexico City food scene as he is also the chef who put Pujol on the map! But unlike Pujol, which is hard to get reservations at and costs a pretty penny, Eno is far more accessible for the everyday traveller.

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At Eno, you can try a traditional Mexican breakfast, like a plate of the classic Chillaques Verde for only cost $7 US! Their daily selection of pan dulce (sweet bread) is incredible! At only $3 a piece, it’s worth ordering a few for the table to share.

Avenue Horacio

From here, let’s take a walk down Avenue Horacio towards our next stop. Avenue Horacio is a perfect example of residential life in Polanco. Tall and orderly, minimalist and functionalist buildings line either side of wide, tree-lined avenues. But unlike the rougher charm that avenues in Condesa or Roma have, Polanco’s avenues are pristine. American-esque evergreen trees tower over the tiled pathways.

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Plaza Uruguay

Before turning south, make a quick stop inside Plaza Uruguay. Marking the entrance to the park is a large statue of General Jose Artigas. General Jose Artigas fought in the Latin American Wars of Independence. He battled against the Spanish Empire and is considered a national treasure here in Mexico City. The park is a beautiful example of the green spaces introduced into Colonia in the 20th century. In the centre of the Plaza is a mammoth concrete sculpture. Water cascades down off the sides of the brutalist-inspired fountain which is surprisingly intriguing despite its simplistic design.

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Av. Isaac Newton

The next block over is the street named after physicist Isaac Newton. Head along this street towards the southwest. As we’ve noted before in the Historic Centre, Mexico City has an amazing collection of street names. Each neighbourhood has a different theme. In upper-class Polanco, many of the streets are named after famous authors, sciences and philosophers. You’ll find the authors like Oscar Wilde, Julio Verne, Dickens, and Hans Christian Andersen. Poets like Moliere, Tennyson, Dumas, and Edgar Allen Poe. They’ve honoured scientists like Galileo, Aristoteles and Newton all with their own streets. And finally, there are the philosophers Plato, Hegel, and Socrates.

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Parque Lincoln

Av. Isaac Newton ends at the corner of the great Parque Lincoln. While many large mansions in Polanco already had private gardens, Parque Lincoln was the first public park. This allowed all residents to feel at ease outside.

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Although naming the park after an American president might seem odd, Lincoln was very well-loved by Mexicans. Lincoln opposed the US invasion of Mexico during the 1840s and from that moment won over the Mexicans. The large statue of Lincoln, made by Augustus Saint-Gaudens, stands in the park’s center. It was a gift to the city of Mexico by US president Lyndon B. Johnson when he visited Mexico City in 1966.

The park was inaugurated in 1938 by President Lázaro Cárdenas. Back then it was called Parque de Polanco or Parque del Palomar. A Polmar is a “dovecote” or house for pigeons or doves. Originally, the famous Parque Lincoln Clock Tower was a simple dovecote where the city’s dove population would come to roost.

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Tianguis Parque Lincoln

If you find yourself in town on a Saturday, you’ll find the park awash with fuschia-coloured tarps. These can be spotted a mile away and mark the Tianguis Parque Lincoln or Lincoln Park flea market. Everything from flowers to ceramics and handicrafts can be found here! Everything from quesadillas, sopes, gorditas, pozole, carnitas, chilaquiles, fresh fruit and more can all be found here under the tents. The neighbourhood is a bit more upmarket, so while the food and goods aren’t as cheap as elsewhere the quality is also higher.

Sculptures

In addition to the statue of Lincoln, the park is filled with incredible sculptures. These outdoor works of art feature famous activists like Nelson Mandela and Martin Luther King Jr. Other sculptures are much more subjective and ask the viewer to interpret. My favourite is the woman intertwined in a root swirling around a city. Each tendril burst out of the ground.

Aviary

Hidden away inside the park, inside a beehive-shaped building, is the Parque Lincoln Aviary. The Aviary was originally built in 1938. Although it closed down for almost four decades, it has since come back into fashion. Entry inside is only $10 pesos (US 50 cents)! If you have kids, this is a great option to entertain them. Inside you’ll find over 20 different species of birds. There are peacocks, parakeets, sparrows, pigeons and, of course, even parrots—all leaving in harmony.

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Nelson Mandela Cultural Space

Across from the Aviary, you’ll see another white stucco building, this is the Nelson Mandela Cultural Space. Inside, music and dance classes are offered to people of all ages. Stop outside the windows to see if you can hear any guitars or violins being played. Listen carefully as you walk by as on quiet days the music echoes throughout the park.

Clock Tower

One of the most iconic images of Parque Lincoln is the clock tower that rises out above the trees. The Torre del Reloj or Clock Tower today is used as a public art gallery. But it is only open when they have a current exhibition on or not. Worth poking your head inside just to see.

Across the street, make a brief stop to see the incredible home at the intersection of Luis Urbina and Alejandro Dumas. Here you’ll find one of the finest examples of Colonial Californian design. The house was built for the lottery magnate Elias Henaine and designed by architect Eduardo Fuhrken Meneses. So many of these “Mexican” looking buildings were made for immigrants. Helaine, who was Lebanese, request this type of style as a means to “fit in” to her new home country.

Park of Mirrors

Another nickname for Parque Lincoln is “Park of Mirrors.” The names comes from the two famous reflecting pools on either side of Calle Julio Verne. Especially on the weekends, these reflecting pools are a popular spot where you’ll find model ship collectors. They come from all over to place their boats in the water for the viewing pleasure of the surrounding public.

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El Moro

Head north along with Calle Julio Verne. These three little islands across from the park, where traffic swerves around, are home to some of the chicest cafes and restaurants in Polanco. And many of them are pretty well priced for such a high-end area. Boicot Café is my fave coffee chain in CDMX and worth checking out if you need a caffeine pick me up! But the main reason to make your way around the central circuit is to check out the Polanco branch of Churrería El Moro.

The original Churrería El Moro, in the Centro Histórico, is the oldest churro restaurant in Mexico City, established in 1935. A Spanish immigrant was shocked upon moving to Mexico City that there weren’t any churro shops in town. So he started his own little churro cart he wheeled around. The treat caught on immediately and it didn’t take long for him to buy a permanent location where he opened his first shop. Since then the company has only grown with locations all over Mexico City.

Hot Chocolate Dip

The only way to eat a churro from El Moro is with a cup of hot chocolate. You take that hot piece of fried cinnamon dough and dip it right into the hot cocoa. El Moro has four types of hot chocolates; Mexican (traditional and light ), French (with vanilla), Spanish (sweet and thick) and Special (bitter). On the other hand, hot chocolate is as old as Mexico itself. The drinking of chocolate can be traced back to Aztec times and was often referred to as “the drink of the gods.” The churro and hot chocolate as the culinary interpretation of the blending of these two cultures.

Cafebrería El Péndulo

Make a quick detour east along Calle Virgilio and up Calle Alejandro Dumas towards the Polanco branch of Cafebrería El Péndulo. Cafebrería El Péndulo is my favourite book store chain in Mexico City. They have locations in Condesa, Roma and San Angel. If you spot one, you know this is a great place to rest your feet. There is no disputing that their Polanco location is the absolute penultimate in architecture and design. This store is famous for being one of the most popular Instagram locations in the city.

The towering bookshelves are framed by these long-hanging plants. Making you feel like you’ve entered a greenhouse that is growing books. The swirling wooden staircase with bright teal banisters frames the entire bookshop. The entire place just feels cozy, modern and vibrant all at once. The roof of the building is made of semi-opaque glass. This allows natural light to pour into the main gallery creating the ideal space for reading.

Cafeteria

The reason these stores are called “Cafebrerías,” is that each one comes complete with a small cafe. Couches and chairs dot the entire second floor where you can sit for hours, enjoying watching people peruse the book selection while enjoying a lovely coffee. I often Uber up to Polanco just to sit and enjoy a coffee inside El Péndulo. They have a great selection of English books. Therefore, I am never strong enough not to leave without a new book in hand. Something always calls my name.

Pasaje Polanco

Jump back across the street and pop and enter into the Pasaje Polanco. The Pasaje Polanco, originally named the Pasaje Comercial, is an open-air shopping centre. The ground floor is littered with chic tiendas (boutiques) and above this, there are residential apartments. Even if you have no interest in shopping, this building is an architectural wonder. It’s stunning but has a surprisingly complicated history.

Colonial Californian Architecture

The complex was opened in 1939 and designed by Francisco J. Serrano in what we now call Colonial Californian style. Serrano was the first to define the Colonial Californian architectural style. He frequently travelled to Los Angeles to purchase films for a movie theatre he owned in Mexico. Everywhere he looked in Los Angeles, he saw a style called Spanish Colonial Revival. This style featured red-tiled roofs, arched passageways, iron-grille windows, Talavera tiles, and white stucco. But anyone looking at this can clearly see the Mexican influence. But by referring to it as “Spanish,” it held a more European cache to Americans who looked down on Mexico. Calling it Spanish Colonial design erased the true influence that Mexican art and architecture always held in America. 

This style would define the Californian architecture of the 1920s. It was so popular that a few years later, it was adopted here in Mexico City. But instead of drawing from their history, they took on the naming convention of ‘Colonial Californian’ architecture. And continued to be inspired by the more watered-down version of their past. The blueprint of these Californian buildings was fairly standardized. They consisted of the elements mentioned above and also featured a large interior courtyard. This courtyard was where shops would be installed on the ground level. While above, apartments would be built that would look out onto the semi-private courtyard below. Today, everyone has to admit the architecture is absolutely beautiful. But it’s a fascinating history to see how Mexican designs became Americanized. And then returned back to Mexico but as a shadow of their former self.

Avenida Presidente Masaryk

Exit visa Avenida Presidente Masaryk and make sure to take a second look back at the facade of the Pasaje Polanco as it’s truly spectacular from this vantage point. Avenida Presidente Masaryk is home to some of the country’s most prestigious and expensive restaurants and boutiques. It is considered the most exclusive avenue in Latin America, the Mexican version of ‘Rodeo Drive‘.

The Avenida Presidente Masaryk, is named after a Czech president Tomáš Masaryk. Tomáš Masaryk was the first president of Czechoslovakia when it became an independent country. Mexicans deeply revered countries that became independent as they themselves know the power that comes with independence. But the other reason Presidente Masaryk is admired in Polanco is due to the large Jewish community that lived here. Masaryk was a staunch defender of the Jewish people in Czechoslovakia. A statue of President Masaryk was donated by Prague in 2000 and installed along the street bearing his name. The same statue can also be found outside Prague Castle. Linking the two countries forever.

La Casa del Pastor

If you’re hungry and aren’t looking to spend a fortune, head to La Casa del Pastor. This little taco restaurant sits in one most exclusive areas in the city. And yet at around 40 pesos/taco (US $2) it’s very reasonably priced! You fill out a little paper sheet and tick off how many of each taco you’d like to get. There is such a huge selection of options here. The tacos pastor are their specialty. But you can also try Pollo (chicken), bistec (steak), Costilla (rib), lomito adobado (marinated tenderloin), chorizo, vegetarian and more! Honestly, when you see a menu this deep, you know the quality can’t be the best, but you really can’t beat the locations.

Don’t fill up too much as we’ll pass by another popular taco spot later. But in case you just want to sit and enjoy the view this place won’t break the bank! Get a spot on the patio if you can and you’ll really get your money’s worth.

Shopping in Polanco

From here, you can continue west along Av. Pdte. Masaryk where our tour continues, or you can take a break to do some shopping. I am working on the entire post of my favourite shops in Polanco that aren’t just international luxury brands. But in the meantime, if you’re looking for unique shops to check out, you can head east to Uriarte Talavera Polanco. Uriarte Talavera Polanco has some of the best ceramic tiles from Puebla, Mexico. The shop was established in 1824 and features classic designs and modern takes on the world-class pottery made in Puebla.

As mentioned before, Xinú Perfumes is the most incredible perfume shop. One of the most transformative experiences I’ve ever had. And on top of that, the staff were incredibly kind. There was no pressure to buy of the judgement of your financial status when you walked in. Something I’ve definitely experienced in high-end stores like Louis Vuitton, Cartier or Dolce & Gabbana found in Polanco. Xinú’s philosophy is that it appeals to our olfactory memory. Their perfumes were all unlike anything I had smelled before, and so rich even a tiny whiff transcended me into another realm. It’s well worth the price tag but honestly pretty reasonable when it comes to high-end perfume.

IKAL is a beautifully curated store featuring burgeoning designers’ contemporary design objects and clothes. Lots of modern and handmade pieces to be found here and even if the price tag is pretty steep, you feel inspired just browsing.

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Americas Park

If shopping isn’t your thing, head north along Alfredo de Musset towards Parque America. Parque America or American Park is a shady and vibrant park where the community comes out to play. Many people are out skateboarding, doing martial arts in the square or just relaxing with ice cream on one of the many comfortable benches. Locals mill about walking their dogs and chatting with each other about the latest gossip.

In the park, you’ll find a statue of Paul P. Harris. Harri was an American lawyer from Chicago, Illinois. He founded the club that became the humanitarian organization Rotary International in 1905. The park is another spectacular sight during the Jacaranda season which the purple trees bloom encircling the park in a colourful ring.

St. Augustine Parish

Towering above the conifer trees and leafy palms is the arched roof of the Church of San Agustín. This church is such a unique architectural wonder. It was designed by Leonardo Noriega and engineer Juan Valero Capetillo in 1949. The church’s facade features this monumental stone front. Most notable for the six hollow arches framing the pinnacle. The concave dome above the entrance to the church is adorned with reliefs. They feature images of the first seven Augustinians who arrived in America.

TANE Instagram Wall

Head back or continue to walk west along Avenida Presidente Masaryk. Here is where you can peek into the windows of some of the most expensive and exclusive stores in all of Mexico City. Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Montblanc, Rolex, Cartier and more. The windows displays here are always stupendous, so don’t be shy about taking a look. But one of the most photographed places in all of Mexico City has got to the be outside Tane. This jewellery store’s bright pink-painted facade also features a wall of fence cacti. Framed within the cacti is a vibrant neon sign which screams, “Mexico Mi Amor” or Mexico My Love. Almost everyone who passes by loves to get a snap in front of it! And honestly, who can blame them?

El Turix

Our second taco stop of the day is at El Turix. Winding down a little side street, this unassuming, practically standing-room-only restaurant is a hidden gem of the neighbourhood. El Turix specializes in cochinita pibil, a taco variation that comes from the Yucatán Peninsula. Cochinita pibil is made from a fatty slab of pork shoulder that has been slow-cooked until it just falls apart. It is marinated in achiote paste which lends a peppery flavour to the meat. The meat is also marinated with oranges to give it a sweet accompaniment to the slightly bitter achiote. Even after cooking, the pork is left to soak in the marinade juices. This gives you a slightly messy taco, but you’ll eat it up so quick you will barely notice! Tacos are only $18 pesos (less than US $1), so you can load up!

Iglesia de San Ignacio de Loyola

Head back up to Avenida Presidente Masaryk and continue north along Avenue Moliere. On the left side of the road, hidden behind a startlingly large, stark white wall, is the San Ignacio de Loyola Church. Turn just around the corner of Avenue Horacio, and suddenly the modernist church reveals itself to you. The church was completed in 1961 by famed architect Juan Sordo. Its sharp triangular structure is covered in handmade yellow ceramics. In the sunlight it shines like gold in the light of day.

If the church is open, be sure to step inside the Jesuit temple. Walking inside the incredible stained glass window bathes the atrium in rainbows of light. The metal gables that hold up the roof create this intricate web of metal above your head. It is truly one of the unique churches in the city and a little secret many people don’t even know if there.

El Palacio de Hierro Polanco

Another modernist architectural marvel of Polanco is El Palacio de Hierro. Located just across the street from the church. El Palacio de Hierro has been open since 1891, but their original flagship store is located in the Historic Centre. But their history dates back even further. In 1850 Frenchman Victor Gassier moved to Mexico City and opened Las Fábricas de Francia, or the Factories of France. The shop sold the best of french fashions imported from Europe.

El Palacio de Hierro History

Gassier joined forces with Alexander Reynaud in the 1890s to build Mexico City’s first upscale department store. They were inspired by Le Bon Marché in Paris, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and Harrods in London. The name “El Palacio de Hierro” means the Iron Palace. It was given this nickname after opening since the department store was the first iron and steel structure to be built in Mexico City. People would pass by during its contribution in awe of the modern building materials. The company took advantage of the publicity by renaming the company El Palacio de Hierro.

The Move to Polanco

Eventually, the store outgrew its location in the Historical Centre. The company wanted to aim not only to expand but bring in more expensive stores to serve a different type of clientele. In 2016 to spent US$300 million to build the new El Palacio de Hierro here in Polanco. The shopping mall is spread out over 55,200 square metres and is the largest department store in Latin America!

Soumaya Museum

Continue north and turn west along Ejército Nacional Mexicano. This busy street is replete with Jacaranda trees come to the springtime! Turn up north along F. C. de Cuernavaca, where you have a spectacular view of the Soumaya Museum as you approach. The Museo Soumaya is one of my favourite types of museums. It is not controlled and operated by the government but instead features one man’s private collection. 

Carlos Slim Helú

Carlos Slim Helú is a Mexican telecommunications magnate. From 2010 to 2013 he was ranked by the Forbes business magazine as the richest person in the world! He is even the largest single shareholder of The New York Times. As such, the man can afford a lot of really, really high-valued art. 

Slim named the ‘Soumaya Museum‘ after his wife, Soumaya Domit, who died in 1999. Carlos wanted to share his art with the public. Instead of just keeping it to himself. The collection was so important to his wife and sharing it with the world felt like a way to keep her alive.

But Carlos wanted to give access to these incredible works of art to everyone, no matter their class or financial status. Therefore, the museum is FREE to enter. And not just on Sundays, like some of the other city museums, but EVERY DAY. 

Architecture

The museum is located inside the Plaza Carso. It is also considered one of the most attractive modern architectural structures in all of Mexico City. Designed by Mexican architect Fernando Romero but engineered by famed architect Frank Gehry. Those who know Frank Gehry‘s work, you can almost identify the building straight away. There are so many iconic elements in the design. The building seems to be twisting itself straight out of the ground. Over 16,000 hexagonal aluminum tiles were used to cover the exterior. To hold up all these tiles, an exoskeleton was built with 28 vertical curved steel columns and seven beams encircling the structure. This design was inspired by offshore oil rigs. Not surprisingly, the building cost almost $800 million to build. A testament to Slim’s enormous fortune that he could afford such a construction.

Interior

The museum contains over 66,000 pieces of art valued at over 700 million dollars! The collection features art from all different periods and artists all over the world. There are religious relics, European masters, Mexican artists, and even the largest collection of pre-Hispanic and colonial-era coins. I adore personal collections since they truly tell a story about the owner. What Slim and his wife were drawn to, what they were passionate about.

And what they wanted to see upon their walls or in their home. The collection features the largest group of sculptures by Auguste Rodin outside France. Slim’s wife loved Rodin more than any other artist, and their collection is a testament to this love.

When you enter the building, you pass through a narrow entryway into the building that soars up around you, like entering through the pin of a needle. You walk inside into this giant wide open space. Since the building has no window, you are led up to the top level in this spiral. Every one of the six different floors has a unique shape. Walking through the galleries, you almost feel like the art is closing in on you as you reach the top, where suddenly you step into this sun-drenched gallery. The rooftop is made with glass, so sunlight casts itself down into the gallery during the day.

Dining in Polanco

To end your evening in Polanco, you need to book yourself an incredible meal. Now don’t get me wrong, there are plenty of fine dining restaurants in Polanco that will be a real splurge, but you can also opt for something much more affordable if you want. You don’t need to splash out. But if you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime meal, this is the place to have it!

Pujol $$$$

Pujol is by far the most popular restaurant, not just in Polanco but in all of Mexico City. In 2021 it moved up to #9 on the list of the World’s Best Restaurants! Chef Enrique Olvera created Pujol in 2000 and almost right away wowed the culinary world. His aim was to showcase Mexican cusine and the country’s rich history. Reservations are tough to get, so try to plan your visit about three-four months in advance.

Pujol History

Today chef Jesús Durón has taken over for Olvera but has continued to refine the incredible flavours and come up with new culinary adventures. The menu’s aim was to take traditional dishes and transform them into the modern era. The most famous of their dishes are their Mole Madre and Mole Nuevo. ‘Mole’ comes from the Nahuatl word ‘mōlli’ meaning “sauce,” and has traditionally been used in Mexican cuisine for centuries. Pujol’s mole features a dark “mother mole” which has been aged for around 2,500 days. The mother mole is served within a ring of the “new mole” with a side of tortillas you use to taste the mole all on its own to really appreciate and experience the flavour. The traditional tasting menu costs around $2000 MXN ($100 USD) without alcohol.

Taco Omakase Meal

When we visited Pujol, we booked a seat for their taco-omakase experience. Omakase means “chef’s favourites” in Japanese and features a rotating 10-course featuring truly experimental takes on the conventional idea of a taco. The entire meal takes place inside their incredible glass dining room, which looks out to their natural gardens, where they grow many of the ingredients for the menu. The whole course was over 3-hours long and was more of an experience than a meal. Taco Omakase Menu costs around $3000 MXN per person ($147 USD) and includes alcohol pairings.

Quintonil $$$$

If you don’t manage to get reservations at Pujol, another incredible dining experience can be found at Quintonil. Quintonil was opened by Chef Jorge Vallejo, who started off at Pujol, where he made a name for himself. Quintonil takes the concept of showcasing Mexican flavours and turns the dishes on their head. Most of the ingredients on the menu are harvested literally 30 meters from where you’re sitting. They do offer a tasting menu with over 10-courses. This will cost you $3,280 MXN ($160 US) or with the alcohol pairing $5,235 MXN ($255). But if this is too expensive, you can also order from their a-la-carte menu with dishes ranging from $200-$500 pesos.

El Bajío $

If you’re still looking to enjoy a traditional Mexican meal but can’t spend upwards of $100 per person, El Bajío is a fantastic choice. El Bajío was founded in 1972 by Raúl Ramírez Degollado and Alfonso Hurtado Morellón who brought traditional Mexican cuisine from Veracruz to Mexico City. They have a huge patio and a large, airy interior decorated with traditional Mexican arts and crafts. The portions are enormous, and the atmosphere feels like dining inside a big family kitchen. Dishes here cost around $165 MXN ($9 USD). And there is even a surprisingly exciting kid menu to choose from, making it such a great place to come as a family.

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Autocinema Coyote

While many people will love to spend an evening in Polanco at chic bars like Gin Gin and Limantour Polanco, I prefer something a little different. In the north end of Polanco, behind a rather unseemly looking fence, is one of the coolest retro gems of the city; the Autocinema Coyote. Since 2011, the Autocinema Coyote has been the only drive-in movie theatre in Mexico City. But in addition to cars, there is also a little outdoor seating area where visitors without vehicles can spread out and enjoy a movie under the stars and enjoy a classic drive-in experience.

Autocinema Coyote plays everything from new releases to cult classics well into the evening. Sometimes when they show the old classics, people will show up in costumes and even perform along with the show! It’s such a great atmosphere. Check their website for the latest showings and which times are playing the films with English Audio, otherwise it’s usually dubbed in Spanish.

I hope you enjoyed this walking tour of the upscale streets of Polanco, Mexico City’s most exclusive neighbourhood. Let me know in the comments where your favourite stop was. Or if you have any particular stops you always make in this part of town!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

References

El Universal | LA Times

The post Self Guided Walking Tour of the Upscale Streets of Polanco: The City’s Most Exclusive Neighborhood first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

I couldn’t help but wonder why these tiny fishing villages were given such brightly painted exteriors. And yet where I live, and in many big cities around the world, having a brightly painted house would be considered an eyesore! Or at the very least something totally out of the ordinary. I ADORED touring these vibrant Newfoundland houses. I came back home wishing I had the guts to ask my neighbours what they’d think about painting my house teal, golden yellow or best of all, bright red!

Table Of Contents

1. Red Ochre, the Original House Paint
2. Why Are The Houses so Colourful?!
   • Legends and Rumors
3. Heritage Newfoundland Paints
4. Where are the Best Places to see Colours Towns in Newfoundland?
   • #1 St John's
   • #2 Quidi Vidi
   • #3 Bonavista
   • #4 Petty Harbour
   • #5 Twillingate
   • #6 Brigus
   • #7 Dildo
   • #8 Cavendish
   • #9 Change Islands
   • #10 Saint-Pierre and Miquelon

Red Ochre, the Original House Paint

Originally most of the Newfoundland houses were painted in a rich, ochre paint. And it could be made right at home. Only in the early 20th century did mass-produced paints become available. Ochre is a natural clay pigment composed of powdered hematite or iron ore. The colours of the ochre can range from yellow to deep orange or brown. The name “ochre” is from the Greek meaning “pale yellow.” In ancient Greece, ochre clay was very pale due to its mineral make-up. But clay ochre can be found all over Newfoundland as well! Primarily in Fortune Harbour and Ochre Pit Cove.

To make their own paint, fishermen would mix the ochre with fish oil, seal oil and linseed oil. This no doubt stinky mixture would then be applied to the house. Evidence of ochre paint being used on Newfoundland houses dates back to 1610. They discovered its use on buildings along with Cupids Cove Plantation who still have the original paint. Proving its efficacy in these weather conditions.

Why Are The Houses so Colourful?!

There are several theories as to why fishing villages and seaside towns in Newfoundland have such brightly painted houses. The most popular theory is that when the fishermen came home on dark grey and foggy mornings, it was almost impossible to spot their house along the shore. But when they painted their homes or fishing huts with bright colours, it made it easier to spot when coming ashore.

Legends and Rumors

Another theory is that regular house paint would show fading faster in the harsh maritime climate. Normal paint would peel from the salty sea air and the winds and snow would fade the paint away. In many other places around the world where the weather is this harsh, they would have simply used bricks or stone to build their homes. But in Newfoundland, this kind of material was very expensive. Most fishermen made meagre wages and therefore could only afford a wooden house.

But then they discovered they could use the same paint they used on their ships to paint their homes. The ship’s paint was much stronger and could withstand the conditions. Ships’ paint came in brilliant colours so that other boats could see the vessels when on the water. Especially when you were out on foggy or stormy seas, being visible was of the utmost importance. This was also a money-saving technique as the ship’s leftover paint was free! Nothing went to waste.

Other people say that the luminous coloured houses are meant to bring joy to people’s faces when they see them along the hills. When you live in a province where the weather is almost always either windy, rainy or snowy, it’s important to brighten things up where you can!

Whatever the reason, it’s fantastic to see this tradition continuing even today! In fact, in towns like St. John’s, some of the old Victorian homes are still the very same colour as they were initially painted. Even after hundreds of years ago. It is an unwritten rule that if you own one of these historic homes you must keep it painted in a traditional colour. To help retain the patchwork quilt which makes up the colourful streets.

Heritage Newfoundland Paints

The importance of the multi-coloured houses is such that there is even a Historic Colours of Newfoundland paint collection. One day, the owner of Templeton’s paint shop, whose store has been open in St. John’s since 1863, found a collection of decades-old paint chips hidden away in the basement. This was a treasure trove of history. He worked with the Heritage Newfoundland council to get the colours developed as an exclusive paint line. The paints were all given with the most charming names. Mussels in the Corner, Little Heart’s Ease, Christmas Syrup, Nanny-Goat, May Bush Blue and Sea Spray Green are just a few of my favourites.

The names were carefully selected to evoke the unique aspects that make Newfoundland so special. The deep golden yellow paint named “Dory Buff” was used on little boats for years. It was the best colour to paint the smaller boats to ensure they remained visible even in rough conditions. A mossy green paint called “Ferryland Downs” is named after the Colony of Avalon and the mossy excavation site located nearby.

Looking at all these paint colours, you’ll notice there are “traditional” hues and “Jelly Bean Pallette.” In the 1960s, paint could be tinted from its original colours. This resulted in brighter, more pastel hues which have become the iconic colour palette in St. John’s Jellybean Row. There is a slight controversy about these colours as they aren’t as traditional as the older ones. Still, there is no escaping their photographic popularity.

Where are the Best Places to see Colours Towns in Newfoundland?

#1 St John’s

Jellybean Row is the name affectionately given to the rows and rows of brightly coloured townhouses that line the steep streets of St. John’s. One of the best parts of visiting St. John’s is admiring the fantastic eras of different architecture. St. John’s was the first fishing outpost for European fishermen. Therefore the original buildings in St. John’s were made for the working fishermen. These consisted of simple shreds, storage shacks, wooden piers and rudimentary homes for the fishermen.

St. John’s is often compared to San Francisco due to the steep incline of the street compounded with the brightly coloured Victorian homes. But it’s not just the colours you need to admire, but also the styles, accents and ornamentations. So many houses have beautiful stained glass windows sparkling against the sunlight as you pass by. Although the name is “Jellybean Row” the multicoloured house can be found all over the city. They are not just found in one dedicated “row.” But if you’re looking for the best place to explore to see the most extensive collection of colourful houses, then head over to the historic Georgetown neighbourhood. Here you can wander to your heart’s content and see street after street of rainbow-hued houses.

#2 Quidi Vidi

Just 10 minutes by car from the centre of St. John’s is the small fishing village of Quidi Vidi. Quidi Vidi was time and time again the most recommended destination when I told people I was visiting Newfoundland. Quidi Vidi was established around 1600 when fishermen arrived each Spring to fish for the cod rich in this area. Most of them would depart back to Europe come the fall in anticipation of Newfoundland’s frigid winters. But after a few years, there was the need to have a few fishermen stay the winter. They would take care of sourcing timber and fuel for the following Spring when the other fishermen returned. Small fishing huts were built to house these men, and eventually, they started to call the area home. They expanded from huts to houses and created their own little community.

Despite being just 10 minutes from St. John’s, Quidi Vidi has preserved a quaint and peaceful atmosphere. There is very little parking which means they can better control the number of people in the village. The fishing hunts have grown slightly over the years, but they retain the brightly painted historic colours that make this place so charming.

#3 Bonavista

Bonavista is most famous being the spot where Italian explorer John Cabot (Giovanni Caboto) first stepped foot. He arrived here in June 1497. When he spotted land from his ship, he was reported to cry out, “O Buon Vista!” In Italian, this means “Oh, Happy Sight!” And what a sight to see is Bonavista even today. Although Cabot saw the land without the beautiful houses that now cover the landscape, the beauty of this place is uncomparable. The town of Bonavista is one of the oldest villages, not only in Newfoundland but in North America! The cape was developed in the 1500s after the arrival of Cabot. The area around Bonavista was rich in fish and seals. It soon became of the most important towns in Newfoundland.

They built up the village along the rocky mantle, not along the shore. Since the seas are so rough here, the water would frequently wash houses along the coast away. Building the town along the elevated cape meant there was more space to expand and build large homes. Most of these homes were built by English settlers who were fish merchants. Eventually, they would build a break wall to prevent flooding and houses soon crept down the hillside. Today the city is known as being one of the dynamic and vibrant communities in Newfoundland.

#4 Petty Harbour

Just 16 minutes from St. John’s, you can escape the big city and find yourself in the centre of this small, picturesque fishing village. Petty Harbour is home to only 970 people who live here year-round. The first settlers established a fishing village here in the 1600s. And while a few modern conveniences pop up, so many elements of this village feel like stepping back in time.

Walking along the dock, you can still see the original fishing nets and wooden crab traps fishermen still use today. Scenic rolling green hills are the backdrop to the town’s wonderfully colourful houses. I loved how the houses almost look right down on the harbour below. It’s just such a charming part of the province.

#5 Twillingate

Located on the northeast corner of Newfoundland, Twillingate is one of the most remote yet incredible places to visit. It is best known as the spot to view whales, dolphins and harp seals throughout the year. But most iconic of all are the icebergs that pass by the town. You can literally watch the bergs float by as you walk along the rugged coastline. The reason the icebergs pass this way is because of the ocean corridor which runs down from Greenland, called “Iceberg Alley.”

During the 1800s, Twillingate was one of the busiest seaports in all of northern Newfoundland. It was bursting with ships coming into the post from all over the world. The ships would bring in supplies and carry away freshly caught cod. But today, it is just a quiet fishing village. It is only during the early summer months when the icebergs come to call that visitor’s flood into town. Throughout the rest of the year, this sleepy fishing village is the perfect place to come to get away from it all! Whenever you arrive, you can admire the quaint and colourful houses which cover the shores. And creep up over the coastline.

#6 Brigus

Brigus is a small fishing community located in Conception Bay, less than an hour from St. John’s. The town is known as a picture-perfect photographer’s paradise. Say that three times fast! Over the years, many an “Arctic Heroe” called this village home. The narrow lanes and winding streets are so reminiscent of English, Irish, and Welsh villages. The styles of the homes are also reflective of their immigrant owners. So many of the homes along their central streets have been preserved for the ages. They each retain a superb historic charm and, of course, those iconic brightly coloured exteriors. You can see the great 200-year-old church whose bright green roof always makes an appearance as you first drive into town. Plus peruse the site of the old Vindicator newspaper office and the old Orange Lodge built in 1860!

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#7 Dildo

Perhaps no surprise to anyone; it is the odd name of this town that draws people to its shores. But what they find when they arrive in ‘Dildo‘ is one of the most delightful fishing villages! Complete with some of the most amazingly painted boats and houses dotted along the coast. The original meaning of the word “Dildo” referred to the phallus-shaped pin stuck in the edging of a rowboat. This part acts as a pivot for the oar, a key component! Although many of us might think of something much different, this is the real meaning which inspired the naming of the town.

The town really rose to fame when the talk show host Jimmy Kimmel featured it on his television show. His team even made a trip out to Newfoundland in 2019 when Jimmy was named honorary mayor. After the town was touched by Hollywood, it was even given its own Hollywood-style sign. Jimmy Kimmel donated the sign to the community, and today it sits on the hillside overlooking this adorable town. And while the Jimmy Kimmel show might have put it on the map, it’s the splashy houses and lovable people who make it such a great place to explore. One of the greatest places to see and stay is at the historic George House Heritage B & B. This amazing house is painted such stunning colours, framed against the backdrop of the hillside looking over all of Dildo.

#8 Cavendish

Located an hour and a half from St. John’s are three of the most famous sheds in all of Canada. The three beach huts are painted in alternating red, yellow, and blue colours. They sit alone out near the shore, facing Cavendish Bay. While it might seem like a long way to go, Cavendish is just 20 minutes up the road from our previous stop in Dildo. These huts have been portrayed on postcards, paintings and more despite being so off-the-beaten-path. The sheds can be found just off Trinity Road South 80 along Beach Road.

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#9 Change Islands

The Change Islands are located between Notre Dame Bay and the Labrador Sea. Far off on the northeast coast of the island of Newfoundland. To get here, you must take a ferry from the mainland over to the islands. But it’s a short hour-long commute. Although there are only 300 permanent residents, they have kept the beauty and the historic nature of this community alive over the years. The town was established in the early 1700s by European settlers. But it wasn’t until the 1900s when the village would become a hub for schooner fleets working the Labrador fishery.

This influx of boats and fishermen resulted in the development of the brightly coloured houses you see along the coast today. As we mentioned previously, ochre was the original colour of the fishing hunt in Newfoundland. And here on the change islands, you’ll find many original structures painted in that historic colour!

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#10 Saint-Pierre and Miquelon

Ok, this last one is perhaps the most exciting but “technically” not a part of Newfoundland. Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is just an hour south of Newfoundland by ferry in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The French commune is considered a part of Europe and not even a part of Canada! But as it’s just off the coast of Newfoundland many visitors make this journey as a part of their maritime adventure. Saint-Pierre and Miquelon even use the euro despite being just a hop, skip and jump from the mainland of Newfoundland. The small island has had a violent history with the French and English settlers. Each side waging war over the years for control over the land. Finally, in 1816 the French took control, and it would remain a French colony ever since.

But despite all this violence, or perhaps in spite of it, the houses on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are some of the most vibrant in all of Newfoundland. It’s like looking at a paint store chip wall with splotches of colours dotted the hillsides. When you are on such a remote island in the middle of the winter, these colourful houses are just what you need to bring in a warm smile to your face.

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I hope these brightly coloured houses and villages of Newfoundland inspire you to make a trip out to this fantastic part of Canada. And maybe when you come home, you’ll be motivated to give your own home a new coat of paint!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Newfoundland’s 10 Most Colourful & Beautiful Places to Visit first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Is the Red Light District Safe?
2. When to do the Tour?
3. Red Lights After Covid?
4. History of the Red Light District
5. What Not to do in the Red Light District
6. Grimburgwal
7. Oudezijds Voorburgwal
8. House at the Three Canals
9. Agnietenkapel
10. Dollebegijnensteeg
11. Trompettersteeg
12. Sex Worker Monument
13. The Oude Kerk
14. Geldersekade
15. Amsterdam's Chinatown
16. Fo Guang Shan He Hua Temple
17. Waag
18. Nieuwmarkt
19. Bloedstraat
20. Kloveniersburgwal
21. Dutch East India Company
22. Oude Doelenstraat

Is the Red Light District Safe?

Thanks to government regulations on prostitution, the trade is now legal inside sanctioned brothels. These laws helped shadier businesses flee the area. In the 1980s, the Red Light District got a bad rap for being a hub of illegal hard drugs. But after a large-scale police crackdown, the area almost immediately changed. In fact, today the Red Light District is actually one of the safest parts of Amsterdam since policemen and bodyguards patrol the streets at night.

When to do the Tour?

You can easily make an entire half-day out of the tour. I would say to start at midday as the architecture is great to explore during the day. But as night creeps in, you’ll get to be amazed at the beautiful neon lights that transform the canals into almost another world. Anytime after 11 pm is when the real action occurs. So if you’d rather avoid that, you can quickly head back to your hotel once the sun goes down. This tour does not go into details about procuring any sex workers in the Red Light District. This guide is focused on the history, architecture, art and culture that has developed out of the famed neighbourhood. That being said, sex work has been a huge part of the history of the area. Be advised that some information presented in the tour will go into this adult subject matter.

Red Lights After Covid?

On the heels of Covid-19, the city council of Amsterdam set out to do something they had been trying to do for ages. And that was to move the Red Light District out of the city centre. The council claimed the move was “necessary to change the type of tourists attracted to Amsterdam.”

But this idea was roundly rejected by the actual sex workers. Their prime location in the Red Light District meant that finding customers was an easy task. A move further out into the off-skirts of town would mean less foot traffic and fewer customers. Sex workers need to see a high turnover of customers each night to make a decent living wage. A reduction in the constant stream of people greatly affects their bottom line. Currently, the proposal has passed, but only time will tell to see if the customer and business will indeed move out of the area or not.

History of the Red Light District

The area of town that is now dubbed the Red Light District is officially named De Wallen. “De Wallen” was the medieval city center of Amsterdam. Where other medieval city centres have been transformed into pristine, curated living museums, De Wallen is still full of life and urban action! The bustling Damrak, which today is one of the city’s busiest streets, was once a large water-filled canal. It was the largest of all the channels, dug out around 1270. The Damrak was constructed as a large harbour for incoming ships. The surrounding canals had defensive walls built around them to protect the goods being imported into the Damrak. This is where the name De Wallen comes from, meaning “the walls.” 

The Dawn of the Red Light District

Historically because of proximity to the harbour, the area has always been a hub for prostitution. Sailors coming into port looking for an evening of action while away from home. But as the trade began to grow in popularity, the church finally started to take notice. The church started its campaign to remove such activity from their city as early as the 15th century. In 1413 the law stated that after a prostitute received two warnings for her actions, she would be buried alive as punishment for her illicit affairs. Other penalties included cutting off a women’s ear for sleeping with any man who wasn’t her husband. Seeing a woman on the street with one ear was the scarlet letter of the time in Amsterdam.

Finally, in 1578 they had all sex workers were banned from working. But like anything which gets banned, the trade simply when underground. For years, this continued, with prostitutes soliciting customers on the street or inside pubs and inns. While sex work was still technically illegal, it was often ignored and loosely tolerated by the authorities.

Gambling Houses Make Room for Brothels

By the 18th century, sex workers were commonly found working inside Amsterdam’s famous gambling houses located in De Wallen. Most of the men who visited these gambling houses were actually aristocrats. Looking to cut loose and escape the trappings of their tight-laced life. But when the sex workers would bring the men back to their filthy homes, the men were less than impressed. The gambling houses saw this as an opportunity. They offered to build luxurious brothel rooms for the women inside their establishments. This was thought to be a great idea as it kept the men close at hand. Should they finish up and want to return to the gambling tables. The authorities agreed to the arrangement but let’s face it, they were most likely paid off to look the other way.

The Napoleonic Health Crusade

By 1811 the ban on street prostitution was officially lifted thanks in part to Napoleon. French soldiers were frequently stationed in Amsterdam and, of course, would find themselves at the brothels. But before there were National health clinics, diseases like syphilis ran rampant through the brothels. Infecting any visiting soldiers. As there was no cure for syphilis at the time, soldiers would find themselves dying from a casual night out. Knowing there was no stopping such “interactions” between the soldiers and sex workers, and seeing how many good men he was losing, Napoleon’s government thought up a solution. They began doing health checks, bringing doctors inside the brothels. They ensured better sanitary regulations to help prevent the spread of disease. If you were deemed healthy, sex workers were given a red card to carry with them. This indicated to anyone that they were permitted to work and were disease-free.

The Name ‘Red Light District’

The name ‘Red Light District’ began to be used in the 19th-century when brothel-owners began to use red gas lamps as an informal way to alert potential customers to their businesses. Today, they have done away with the idea of gas lamps but replaced them with the prominent use of red neon lights. Come nighttime, these lights flood the streets and canals and give the area its iconic appearance.

Red Lights in the 21st Century

You might be asking or just curious to know, “is sex work legal in the 21st century?” Paid sex between adults (18+) is now legalized in the Netherlands. So long as it occurs inside an approved “window” or gentleman’s club. Any sex worker is free to refuse service to anyone. Customers are often given a laundry list of rules to follow when engaging in these sexual activities. It’s imperative to discuss that while much of this work might be legal, illegal sex trafficking is still an ongoing issue. We will have the chance to learn more about that later, as many institutions in the Red Light District are passionate about ending these criminal actions and advocating for the safety and rights of consensual sex workers.

What Not to do in the Red Light District

During the day, you won’t need to worry about these tips but come the neighbourhood’s transformation during the evening it’s best to follow these pointers;

• NEVER take pictures of the women in the windows. It is forbidden to do so, and some workers are known to keep a cup of pee on hand to throw at such “law” breakers. Picture taking breaks the anonimity of these women and can expose them to real safety problems. There are places where you can snap a photo of the area without risking the exposure of any women’s safety
• While the area is much safer than it used to be, I would still advise you to leave your valuables back at all the hotel
• The area is super touristy, and with tourist crowds come pickpockets. Be so be sure to keep an eye on your bags, keep money concealed and avoid open purses
• Anyone visiting on their own is a target, so be sure to walk with friends or join a tour group
• Like anywhere in Amsterdam, don’t accept drugs from anyone on the street

Grimburgwal

We start our tour on the outskirts of the Red Light District, along the Grimburgwal. The Grimburgwal marks the entrance to the Medieval centre of Amsterdam. This narrow watery passageway connects the great Oudezijds Voorburgwal to the Amstel river via the Rokin canal. The name “Grimburgwal” comes from the word “grim,” which means “muddy ditch” and “burgwal” which means earthen wall. This part of the city was home to this large earthen wall dug out along the muddy waters used to protect the medieval city. The wall was destroyed in 1384 during the city’s expansion. The Grimburgwal remained the city’s southern canal border until 1425 when the canal belt began to be constructed. It’s a small, almost forgettable canal today, but its rich history is something to take note of.

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal

The Grimburgwal ends at the Sleutelbrug bridge, which looks out over the entrance to the Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal. The Oudezijds Voorburgwal means “old city walls,” as this area was where the defensive ramparts continued around the old medieval city. The canal was originally nothing more than a little creek but was dug out to create this large waterway in the 14th century. As the canal was one of the first large expansions, it is where we can find some of the oldest buildings in Amsterdam. Despite the fact that today the area is known for its illicit activities, in the middle ages, the area was where you could find a large number of monasteries, churches and religious institutions.

During the 17th century, many wealthy Catholic merchants made this part of the city their home. Back then, the area was nicknamed the “Velvet defence-canal“. Sort of a dig at the rich merchants who lived here who were known for dressing in fancy velvet clothing.

House at the Three Canals

At the intersection of the Oudezijds, the Achterburgwal and the Grimburgwal, we find the Huis Aan De Drie Grachten or House on the Three Canals. Name because it is located at this meeting point of these three famous waterways. This house is so fantastical, designed in high Dutch Renaissance style. I especially love the large leaded glass window and set-in brick arches above them. The charming red wooden shutters making it so classical Dutch looking. The house was originally two separate lots built around 1610!

The house was designed for bricklayer Claes Adriaensz van Delft. Seeing as it was made for a bricklayer it is only appropriate that the bricks on this house are among the most impressive parts of the entire building. During the 1930s, a bookstore was opened in the house. Inside, the various bookshelves hid behind them, secret compartments where Jewish people on the run from the Germans could hide. These hidden compartments were only discovered in 2005 during renovations to the building. Adding to the already illustrious history of the building.

Agnietenkapel

Behind this grand arched entrance, is the doorway into the old Agnietenkapel, also known as the Chapel of the Convent of Saint Agnes. This is one of the oldest structures in the city, dating back to 1470. In the 15th century, the area along the southern half of Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal was called the stille zijde or the “quiet side.” This so-called peaceful part of town became popular with religious institutions looking for a monastic place to build their home. Away from the hustle and bustle of the raucous trade center. Very ironic today that all these churches are now located in what would be considered the most unholy neighbourhoods, the Red Light District.

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Athenaeum Illustre

In 1578, when the Catholic city government was deposed in favour of the Protestant one, all Catholic churches and monasteries were demolished. This was called the Alteratie, or the “alternative.” But the Agnietenkapel was thought to be too beautiful to be destroyed. Instead, in 1631 it was converted into the Athenaeum Illustre. The Athenaeum Illustre, or Amsterdamse Atheneum, was a city-sponsored ‘illustrious school.’ An Athenaeum Illustre was neither a university nor just a school. It fell somewhere between where it would teach at an academic level, but there were no degrees given out. In the 17th century, each province was only allowed one official university, and Holland already had a university at Leiden. It wasn’t until 1815 that it was recognized as an official academic institution where diplomas could be given out. Leading to its transformation into the University of Amsterdam.

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Church Gate

The Agnietenpoort or Church Gate is fantastically carved with so many ornaments placed along the archway. You can see why they decided to preserve it when it changed hands from the church. On the top, set into a large shield is the Amsterdam coat of arms. The coat of arms of Amsterdam consists of a red shield (here just plain stone) with three silver Saint Andrew’s Crosses down the middle highlighted by a black pale. The black pale symbolizes the Amstel River, while the three crosses represent the three dangers of Old Amsterdam: fire, floods and the Black Death. St. Andrew is the patron saint of Amsterdam as he is the patron saint of fisherman as the city was originally just a small fishing village.

Surrounding the coat of arms is typical Vredeman de Vries motifs. Hans Vredeman de Vries was a Dutch Renaissance architect best known for his publication in 1583 on garden designs. Inside this book were many drawings of floral ornamentations that have since been referenced ever since on buildings all over the city. A large cartouche frames the emblem with the year 1631 below and a roaring lion on top. The Dutch Republic Lion was the badge of the Union of Utrecht and a precursor of the current coat of arms of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. You’ll find lion symbols all over the city to represent this ancient heraldry.

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Stadsbank van Lening

Pawnshops have truly been around forever! Proof positive of this fact is the old Municipal Pawnshop found along the canal. This building was established in Amsterdam in 1616. It was created as a municipal charity to protect poor people from shady loan sharks. These loan sharks would lend out money at a sky-high interest rate that made it impossible to ever pay back and get out of debt. The Amsterdam Municipal Pawnshop was started as a not-for-profit city bank that still operates today! It is considered the oldest bank in Amsterdam and one of the oldest banks in the world!

Above the doorway, you’ll find the city coat of arms topped by the Emperor’s crown. In gold lettering, along the pediment over the doorway, is a poem in Dutch. It reads, “Have you neither money nor property, pass this door. Have you the last, and do you miss the first, come to me. Give pledge, I give you money, why should I guarantee you? Or isn’t it enough that you live off mine? But if you return your pledge, you must take care in time. That my principal will return with interest. I help you and me and show it to the investigators. Of my secrets, the grave of forgotten usurers.“

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The Prinsenhof

Another holy institution located along the Oudezijds Voorburgwal was the St. Cecilia Monastery. The original church was built in the early 15th century but after the Alteratie, the Catholic institution was converted into the city’s Prinsenhof in 1581. It was named the ‘Prinsenhof‘ after Prince William of Orange. In the late 16th century, the prince of Orange was the ruler of the Netherlands and would often use the building as his primary residence. It was later used as the Admiralty in the 17th century.

Prinsenhof as City Hall

In 1808 King Louis Bonaparte pulled the old switcharoo and wanted to convert the beautiful Dam City Hall into his Royal Palace. This meant the city needed to find a new location for its city hall. Seeing as the Prinsenhof was little used at this time, it was selected as their new City Hall. The building was used as accommodation for visiting dignitaries, mayors and, of course, city council meetings. When the city council moved in, the building saw a huge change in the architecture to suit its new function.

Amsterdam School Style

The new style of architecture which came out of the building of the new city hall was called, “Amsterdam School Style.” Like all variations of Dutch architecture, it heavily featured brickwork. The use of bricks is the primary building material in Amsterdam is due to the fact that the city’s access to clay. Clay is found in abundance around the rivers which encircle the city. Amsterdam School structures are also characterized by a rounded appearance, as demonstrated here by the curved facade bowing out towards the canal. The style also tended to favour decorative masonry, wrought iron accents, spires and ‘ladder’ windows. The style is slightly reminiscent of the Art Deco design aesthetic but with a Dutch interpretation. The decorative masonry here features large artistic pillars along the first floor. They depict men and women as symbols correlating to administrative virtues such as simplicity, courage, and diligence.

City Hall Public Urinal

Across from Oudezijds Voorburgwal #195 is a small brick and stone cylindrical structure which is actually a public urinal! A urinal probably seems like a very strange thing to make a point to visit. But this urinal has become an actual National Monument. It was built in 1926 and renovated for the new City hall. The urinal was designed to fit into the same uniform Amsterdam school style as the City Hall. Right on top of the urinal entrance, you’ll find another sculpture designed by artist Hildo Krop. This sculpture matches the same sculptures on the pillars outside the City Hall. If nature calls, men can still use the rudimentary bathroom today!

Oudezijds Voorburgwal #187

The Dutch Classical black brick building at #187 has a very interesting gable design, specifically around the ornate claw pieces. The house was built in 1663 for an American tobacco trader. We can tell the house was designed for a merchant working in the Americas because of the imagery featured in the claw pieces. We can see sculptures of the merchant’s enslaved Africans holding tobacco leaves. Above them are pictured personifications of indigenous workers carrying large harvest baskets. 

Amsterdam’s Architecture of Colonial Exploitation

Many parallels can be drawn between America’s colonization and the enslavement of the African people to the Netherlands’ own dark colonial past. Everyone knows that the “Dutch Golden Age” was the city’s great boom in the 17th century brought about by its free and tolerant society and its enormous trading empire. With the creation of the Dutch East India Company, the Netherlands had an empire of ships that roamed the coastlines of Asia and Africa.

But it wasn’t just spice and silks they brought home. They also colonized countries and robbed them of their natural resources. And although the Dutch didn’t bring slaves back to their home country, the colonies suffered through a period of around 200 years of slavery until it was abolished in 1863. While houses like this and other images of slavery are tough to observe, it’s essential to understand and accept this period of Amsterdam’s history. You can learn a lot more about Amsterdam’s Architecture of Colonial Exploitation in this great article!

Oudezijds Voorburgwal #136

The house on Oudezijds Voorburgwal #136 was first built in the 16th century. Above the doorway, there is an iconic wooden relief featuring the famous navy officer Admiral Cornelis Tromp. Cornelis Maartenszoon Tromp lived in Amsterdam but never at this particular residence. In fact, the relief wasn’t installed until well after his death. The house was purchased by trader Jan Pranger who had a great reverence for Cornelis Tromp as a fellow sea traveller.

Tromp can be seen in his heroic pose, his hand resting on a large globe above a scrolled nautical chart in the background. The relief was hidden for years when the house was converted into a printing shop that covered up the old plaque. In the 1990s, when the house was being refurbished, the old emblem was released, and they went about restoring the brightly painted colours to their former glory. The house basement was converted into a sex shop in 1980 but today the house serves as the headquarters for the green energy initiative in Amsterdam.

Dollebegijnensteeg

While the majority of the canals and streets we’ve seen so far bear no resemblance to anything you’d imagine the Red Light District to look like, Dollebegijnensteeg indeed does. Even during the day, this area screams sex work. Mainly due to the graffiti paintings of a scantily clad woman along the walls. This alley is a hub for window prostitution. During the day, the windows remain dark. But you can peer inside and see their stools or chairs, empty beds and bare interiors.

In the evening, women rent out these windows from the brothel owner on a nightly basis. They will turn their red lights on to display the fact they are open for service. If you see a window at night with the shade drawn, this means they are currently “servicing” a client. Visiting during the day is a great way to peek inside this world without it seeming too overwhelming. At night the atmosphere in these narrow alleyways can feel intimidating even for those just there to observe.

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Bulldog Coffeeshop

The Bulldog Coffeeshop is a famous landmark in the neighbourhood as it is the oldest “coffee shop” in Amsterdam. It was established in 1974 as a secret “speakeasy” for soft drugs. Despite multiple raids over the years, eventually, the city began to tolerate the sale of these drugs. Many people think marijuana is legal in Amsterdam, and surprisingly that’s not the case. But it is generally accepted, even by the police, who look the other way. The original location is worth visiting as you can discover more about the history of cannabis in Amsterdam inside.

Even if you don’t partake in the consumption, you can’t visit Amsterdam without seeing what these “coffee shops” are all about. Plus, this location has a full menu with food and drink options that don’t contain any drugs. I myself don’t partake but still had a blast checking them out and seeing what a comfortable, friendly atmosphere I was greeted with inside.

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Trompettersteeg

Almost so narrow it’s barely noticeable is Trompettersteeg. Located right beside Bulldog Coffee Shop. Trompettersteeg or Trumpets Alley is the narrowest alley in the city. Historically this alley is where some of the highest-priced sex workers display themselves in their windows. But in recent years, it has become one of the most photographed places in the Red Light District. But not for the reasons you might expect. Especially when everyone has a camera on their phone, banning photos in the entire Red Light District has become very challenging. But taking a picture of these women at work is really degrading. It makes them feel like they are in a zoo and not human beings. It also is a huge safety issue as most sex workers prefer to remain anonymous for a variety of reasons.

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#No F*cking Photos

To help detract from this photo-taking frenzy a local artist was enlisted to create a series of murals. These were aimed to address the subject and help educate people on the dangers of a simple selfie. The project was called “Respect the Ladies.” But the iconic hashtag #NoF*ckingPhotos was used to really hammer the message across. The project is the first thing you see upon entering the alley. It urges tourists to respect sex workers and not take any photos of them. Instead, get a shot of the mural before entering if you must document the moment. Then, quickly put your phone away. This idea of giving people a spot to take their photos without infringing on the rights and privacy of the sex workers seems to have helped out for the time being. Just another example of how street art can be so influential.

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Bronze breastplate sculpture

Hiding right outside the largest church in Amsterdam is a small, flat sculpture laid into the ground. You might even step right over it if you don’t know what you’re looking for. I’ve marked it on the map, so you know exactly where to go. Right under the shadow of the church lies a bronze sculpture depicting a hand cupping a nude breast. The statue was placed here in 1993 by an anonymous artist. The breastplates sculpture is thought to pay homage to the hard-working women when working in the Red Light District. There are actually several bronze sculptures around Amsterdam, all of which were placed there without permission. Like the predecessor to Banksy.

Despite the city council raging against these illegally placed sculptures, the public appreciation for them was wildly popular. The story is that when the city was about to have the statues removed, the artist came forward in private and revealed themselves to the city council alone. After that, the sculptures were deemed to be approved, and they were all left in place. One can only wonder what kind of artists would have that kind of pull over the city council. Some people even suspect it was Queen Beatrix herself. But for now, it remains a mystery.

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Sex Worker Monument

Continuing around the back of the church, you will find a minature bronze statue that goes by the name “Belle.” Belle also represents all sex workers. She was installed by the nearby Prostitute Information Centre. Even in the shadow of the church, Belle stands in the nude, tall and proud. Ashamed of nothing. Fierce and defiant. Below her name is the inscription, “Respect sex workers all over the world.“

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The Oude Kerk

The crowing glory of the Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal is the grand Oude Kerk. The Oude Kerk or “Old Church” is named as such because is the oldest religious institution in the city. The first wooden part of the structure was constructed here in 1213! Originally the church was named St. Nicolas Church after the patron saint of the city.

The area they selected for the church was a sold mound in the otherwise marshy settlement. This allowed the church to grow in size without requiring much additional foundation work. Today the church sprawls out over 36,000 sq ft. Each generation of Amsterdam’s religious elite seemed to have added their own personal touch in its expansion. In the 14th century, the side aisle was lengthened, and the great medieval wooden vaults were installed. These remain to this day are the oldest medieval wooden vault in all of Europe. The vaults were made out of great Estonian oak planks. Some of the plants were stained in various colours to look like paintings on the ceiling. Bands of florals surround each part of the vault with golden stars decorating the keystones. These vaults are still thought to provide some of the best acoustics even amongst the more modern churches.

Miracle of Amsterdam

In the 14th century, the church was the site of the “Miracle of Amsterdam.” One day, a dying man accepted the sacramental bread during communion. But after ingesting it, he began to vomit it up in a fit of pain. When the priests threw the vomit into the fire, the bread did not burn, and the act was proclaimed a miracle. Even stranger than the miracle itself was the fact that the vomitted bread was preserved in a relic chest and kept inside the church. Sadly their miracle relic was one of the many items which disappeared during the Alterie.

Stained Glass

In the 15th century, a north and south transept were added to change the floorplan of the church into a cross shape. The beautiful large windows inside the church were installed in 1406 and were once covered in vibrant stained glass. More and more windows were added over the years, totalling 33 large-scale artfully made scenes. Sadly during the great fire of 1536 and the gunpowder explosion in 1654, all of these original windows were destroyed.

Most of the windows are now plain glass replacements but, beginning in the 20th century, these windows began to be restored. Using paintings, drawings and historical architectural plans, the church museum started to create modern interpretations of the ancient windows. There were created by artist Joep Nicolas. The windows depict various biblical stories, such as the Parable of the Prodigal Son and the story of baby Moses. But they also commissioned some modern, secular scenes as well. Inside the Memorial window are depictions of WWII victims who were killed during the Nazi occupation. The Libration window also commemorates the Netherlands’ liberation from the German and Japanese occupiers.

Oude Kerk & the Alterie

After the Catholic Reformation in Amsterdam during the late 16th century, the church was looted and defaced on multiple occasions. This stripped the church of much of its original decorations save for a few paintings. The thieves couldn’t reach them as they were installed high up under the vaults. After the Reformation, the church was used as a meeting house for the public. People would come here to escape the cold and the rain to gossip, sell their goods, and it was even used as a de-facto homeless shelter.

In the 17th century, the church was reconsecrated and been given a fresh coat of paint. New decorations were installed, including a new oak screen which referred to the desecration during Reformation. It states, “The prolonged misuse of God’s church, was here undone again in the year seventy-eight.”

Rembrandt & Oude Kerk

One of the most famous Dutch painters, Rembrandt himself, was a frequent visitor to the Oude Kerk. All of his children were baptized inside the temple, and it is one of the few original buildings left in Amsterdam where the painter roamed the halls. His wife, Saskia van Uylenburgh was buried here in 1642 inside the Holy Sepulchre. Another famous figure buried is naval hero Jacob van Heemskerck who was a central figure in Rembrandt’s masterpiece The Night Watch.

Today, the church is used as a contemporary art gallery where the ancient architecture is the backdrop for modern art. Entry into the church costs €12 for adults and €7 for students; children under 13 are free. On Sunday mornings, the church still opens its doors for worshippers for free but only for those serious about coming in to pray.

Prostitution Information Center

The perfect antithesis to visiting the Old Church is to pay a visit to the neighbouring Prostitution Information Center. The Prostitution Information Center or PIC for short, was established in 1994 by ex-sex worker Mariska Majoor. Sadly, Majoor became a sex worker at the young age of 16. But she took this hardship and turned it into the fire that fuelled her. She became a huge activist, fighting for the rights and legal protection of sex workers. In fact, she was instrumental in changing the Dutch laws regarding prostitution. Inside the Prostitute information center, you can learn more about the social conditions working in the sex industry. This centre doesn’t aim to glamourize the sector but rather be open and honest about all aspects of the work.

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De Wallenwinkel

Right beside the PIC, you’ll find the Red Light District Store, also run by the PIC. The shop goes by the name De Wallenwinkel and inside you’ll find lots of books, maps, guides and more. The money spent inside the store helps support the health and wellbeing of all sex workers in De Wallen. Even if you just buy a little souvenir map of the area, it goes a long way to support the centre.

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal 57

Across the bridge from the Oude Kerk at #57 is a gorgeous example of Amsterdam Renaissance architecture made by the famous architect Hendrick de Keyser. They call the house the De Gecroonde Raep. It features one of the finest examples of stepped gables in Amsterdam. With these gorgeous scalloped stone carvings above each step. The facade also features these beautiful brace arches above the windows with smallmasks set into the pediments. Iconic features of Keyser are the double pilasters with cartouches set in between the brick pillars.

Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic Museum)

Hidden behind an otherwise simple brick facade is an example of a “schiller” or “clandestine church.” After the Reformation, Catholics needed to practise their religion undercover. A few old houses on the canal were converted into these secret churches. This church went by the name Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic Museum). It was built by a Catholic merchant in 1663 who transformed his third-floor attic space into the beautiful yet cramped religious wonderland you find today. Personally, I adore the pink-painted balustrades and railings, such a unique touch.

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Visiting the Museum

After Catholics could practice in public once more, the church was exposed and opened as a museum in 1888. This makes it the second oldest museum in Amsterdam. Today, it remains a museum visited by over 85,000 people annually. In addition to viewing the secret church, you can also tour the 17th-century merchant canal house interior. Tickets are €14 for adults and €7 for children and students.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 18

House at #18 bears a striking (if not a simplified version) of the house saw a few doors down at #57. The curved arches above double pilasters are a clear sign of the work of Hendrick de Keyser. Above the third floor, there are face masks, but on the lower levels, we find lion masks. Above the stone gable is a relief depicting the legendary castle of Egmond aan den Hoef.

Brouwerij De Prael

If you need to take a break, one of the best places to grab some lunch and a beer is at the Brouwerij de Prael. Brouwerij De Prael is a Dutch microbrewery established in 2002 by Arno Kooy and Fer Kok. It is a beautiful local brewpub with over 3,000 different labels as well as its own microbrews. Here you can enjoy a tasting of 4 beers for €10,00 per person in the most enjoyable atmosphere!

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal 14

The Het Wapen van Riga, at #14, is a 17th-century merchant’s house. In the center, we find relief of the coat of arms of the country of Riga. The original house was built for a wealthy merchant who was indeed from Riga and this emblem was a way of paying homage to his home. The lions are a powerful symbol of the city of Riga. Two golden lions on a grey plinth were thought to symbolizes the strong foundation of the city and the bravery of its citizens. You can also find two of Riga’s lion heads protruding off either side of the stone gable on the first floor.

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Oudezijds Kolk

Walk over and stand on the old Armbrug bridge to look out over the Oudezijds Kolk. During the Middle Ages, most of the canals in Amsterdam looked more like this canal. The old canals didn’t feature any sidewalks or laneways as the primary mode of transport was solely boats. When the newer canals around the canal belt were built, the boom of horse-drawn carriages had taken over. These canals were built to feature roads for horses and eventually cars to travel along. This canal is one of the last remains medieval canals in Amsterdam and a gem to treasure.

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Weeping Tower of Amsterdam

At the end of the Oudezijds Kolk canal, you will find the largest of the three remaining medieval city towers. It goes by the Weeping Tower of Amsterdam. The legend goes that the wives of the sailors who were off to sea would come up to the tower to wave their last goodbye. Tears obviously ensued, echoing down the canals. The life of a sailor was a tough one as storms, scurvy, war, and pirates were all things that a sailor would come up against at sea. And most of these wives knew that upon saying goodbye there was a good chance they would never return.

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Geldersekade

After reaching the Weeping Tower, turn back down south along the Geldersekade canal. The Geldersekade canal was part of the original city moat, dugout at the end of the 15th century. This canal makes up the borders of Amsterdam’s Chinatown. Chinatown isn’t honestly the most appropriate name for the area, as many different Asian cultures and cuisines are represented here. 

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Amsterdam’s Chinatown

Amsterdam’s Chinatown is the oldest Chinese and Asian neighbourhood in Europe, dating back to 1910. The first Chinese immigrants came to the Netherlands in the 1900s as sailors and stockers on large Dutch steamships. These Chinese immigrants had a tough life. In the early 20th century are they were forced to stay inside tiny cramped boarding houses along the edge of the city. Many of these original boarding homes were located along Binnen Bantammerstraat. When the Chinese sailors were too old to work on the ships, they began selling peanut cookies on the streets to make any money. In 1928 the first Chinese restaurant opened up on Bantammerstraat. It was called Kong Hing, and it opened to huge fanfare. Famously, American singer and dancer Josephine Baker visited the restaurant several times. Her picture hung in the restaurant until it closed.

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Chinatown Post WWII

After World War II, many Chinese immigrants were here illegally and couldn’t find work in most above-board establishments. This gave rise to opium dens and gambling houses in Chinatown. Sadly, opium gave rise to heroin which by 1980 was being sold on the streets in this part of town. Giving the area and subsequent Red Light District a notoriously dangerous reputation. During the HIV/AIDS crisis in 1985, the city council aimed to purge the city of these drugs which had really taken hold over the area. After these raids and crackdowns, the area began to flourish once more. Today is a fantastic place to come and enjoy Asian cuisine from a myriad of different countries.

Fo Guang Shan He Hua Temple

Turn right along Stormsteeg and walk along Zeedijk. Towards the southern end of the street, you’ll be remiss to pass by the majestic Fo Guang Shan He Hua Temple, the largest Zen Buddist temple in Amsterdam. In fact, it is the largest Buddist temple in all of Europe! Even though the building was designed by a Dutch architect, the ornaments and roof tiles were flown in from China to ensure the building felt authentic. Look closely along the roof to spot various animal sculptures representing the different symbols of the Chinese zodiac. You are free to enter the temple and admire the lavishly decorated interior. It is complete with a giant statue and shrine to the Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva. 

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Waag

At the end of Zeedijk street, the road opens up into a large public square. Centered in the square is what almost looks like a minature castle. This delightful building is the oldest secular buildings left in Amsterdam, having been constructed in 1488! The name of the building is the “Waag,” which means “weigh.” Over the years, the building has been used as the literal “weighing house” where goods brought in through the canal were weighed and then taxed based on those calculations. It was one of the most important places in Amsterdam in the medieval era as it was where the money came in! In fact, back in the 15th century, the Waag was built into the medieval city walls. Only through these red doors would you be able to center this part of the city.

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The Guilds

The Waag also became the home office of various guilds who took up residency in the different towers. The entrance door on the corners of the building, which still stands today, are marked with stone carvings relating to each of these guilds. In fact, the surgeons guild commissioned a painting of their guildhall by none other than Rembrandt himself! Although you really wouldn’t recognize it immediately as the Waag, the image is set inside the guildhall.

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In De Waag

If you’re interested in getting a peek inside, you can actually dine inside the old Waag building. They have transformed this space into a fantastic restaurant. Walking inside the doors, you are greeted by over 300 candles that float on the chandeliers and all around the room. It’s truly an inspiring space that makes for the perfect romantic evening out.

Nieuwmarkt

In the 17th century, the area around the gatehouse was filled in. This was when the Niewmarkt square was introduced. While the square was a social meeting point for locals throughout the years, one of the most historic memories embedded into the stones was during WWII. It was in this very square was where the Jewish population was rounded up by the Nazis. They were gathered here and then sent off to concentration camps. Most of whom would never return. Today, the square is still a hub of activity with street vendors out throughout the week. On Saturdays, there is a huge food market and on Sundays, you can find an antique and craft fair.

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Bloedstraat

Just off of Nieumarket, take a walk down Bloedstraat. This wide alley is one of the areas in the district where you’ll find blue lights. Red lights in the community are used to denote cis-gendered female sex workers. While blue lights are used to indicate to the customers that the worker inside is a trans-woman.

Compared to the alleys on the other side of the canal, these streets are beautiful and replete with gorgeous Dutch architecture. This makes the fact that during the evening, these windows turn into brothels a true Jekyll and Hyde act. The name “Bloedstraat” translates to “blood street.” The story of the name comes from the fact that this area of town was once the old Friars Minor Monastery. Built in 1464, one of the Monks who lived here built a torture chamber in his room along the street. Rumour has it that inside his victims would be whipped long into the night, the blood spilling out of the doorways and onto the street.

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Kloveniersburgwal

Head back to the Nieumarket and walk south until you reach the edge of the square. At the end of the square is the entrance to the Kloveniersburgwal canal. Kloveniersburgwal means “city wall of the Kloveniers.” The Kloeniers were the name for the municipal guards. It was the job of the guards to patrol the walls around the city. Always on the lookout for any incoming armies or intruders.

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Dutch East India Company

Head back towards our starting point by crossing the Bushuissluis and turning onto Oude Hoogstraat. On the corner of Oude Hoogstraat and Kloveniersburgwal is the fantastical old Dutch East India Company building. In Dutch called the Oost-Indisch Huis. This was the former headquarters of the Dutch East India Company. The company was a conglomerate of various rival Dutch trading companies which all came together to form this monopoly.

The building was designed in 1602. Back then, it was the largest building the city had ever seen. The Oost-Indisch Huis building was multifunctional, serving simultaneously as a warehouse, administrative center, office and auction room. It was built in high Amsterdam Renaissance style. The elegant facade with that gorgeous red brickwork is so iconic of that period of Dutch architecture.

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VOC as the First Company Logo

The company itself was so large it even has its own flag and military army. And it was the first corporation to even design a logo to represent it. The name in Dutch was the Vereenigde Oost-Indische Companie or VOC for short. They used this monogram with interlocking serif letters to form their insignia. The VOC insignia would be used on every piece of material the company owned and produced. This meant notepaper, ships, storage boxes and spice containers. It was also used on cannons, coins and battlements on the Spice Islands they colonized. All as a means of promoting their dominance over the trade industry. For the indigenous residents of these brutally conquered islands, the logo represented nothing but violence, death and danger.

While the VOC is today mainly thought of as a trading company that sold silks, spices and coffee, it is a little know fact that they also financed wars and built plantations all over their colonies. All in order to get cheap or slave labour to produce their spice plants to harvest and sell all over the world. While the building is an impressive and dominant feature of the canal, it is essential to remember how they amassed all this wealth.

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Oude Doelenstraat

This brings us to the end of the tour. If you started the tour later in the day, the night would have crept over the neighbourhood by now. The red lights of the district start to turn come on and it’s incredible how just a few (well, alright, a few hundred) neon lights can transform the canals. From what was once a medieval-looking street corner is suddenly a sultry-looking brothel. If you’re interested in getting some pictures of the neon lights, you’re safe to do so along the Oudezijds Voorburgwal. This bridge is my favourite spot on the Oude Doelenstraat, where you have a view all down the canal. Standing here, you can get a wide shot of the neighbourhood and scenery without focusing on any one window in particular. Just remember, if you can see them, they can see you. And best not to risk taking the shot.

Another photo spot, if you’re interested in finding a great location, is in front of the Erotic Museum. Their museum front has a beautiful neon sign and elegant doorway where you can appropriately get a picture to mark your travels into the Red Light District. And without risking the exposure of any working woman in the area.

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I hope you enjoyed this tour and learned that the Red Light District is so much more than just a novelty, sex-filled street. Instead, it’s a wonderful neighbourhood full of history, culture and fantastic architecture! Let me know in the comments if you have any questions regarding visiting the Red Light District for yourself!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post An Alternative Guide to the Exciting and Historic Red Light District in Amsterdam first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.