To find the best of what this neighbourhood in Mexico City has to offer follow this walking tour through the streets of Roma Norte!

Table Of Contents

1. Location
2. History
3. Architecture
4. Where to Stay
5. What Sights to See
6. Where to Shop
7. Where to get the Best Coffee
8. Where to Eat
9. Where to Find the Best Desserts
10. Where to Get a Drink
11. Where to Find the Best Museums

Location

The neighbourhood of Roma Norte, also called Colonial Roma, is located south of the Paseo de la Reforma. And just below the Historic City Centre. Roma Norte’s central location makes it an ideal place for tourists. From here you can easily reach all the best spots in the city in no time!  The Colonial Roma is so large that the area has been divided into the North and South. Avenue Yucatan is the main street that separates Roma Norte and Roma Sud. Each area has developed their own distinctive character. There is also a third district called La Romita. Today, we are taking a tour of Roma Norte. Roma Norte is by far the most lively and largest neighbourhood in the area.

History

Roma was one of the first upper-class neighbourhoods built in Mexico City. And I don’t just mean built in the 20th century. In 1529, the area that now makes up Roma was granted to Hernán Cortés by the Spanish Crown. During the colonial period, the Counts of Miravalle continued to control the area. This brought in more and more wealthy Spainairds into the neighbourhood. And with them the need for lavish residences.

Eduardo Walter Orrin

But it wasn’t until the 19th century that we start to see the creation of the Roma we find today. And we have the strangest person to thank for the overall look and feel of the neighbourhood. And that is Englishman Eduardo Walter Orrin. Orrin made his wealth in the Circus of all places. The Orrin Circus arrived in Mexico City in 1872 after touring the US and South America.

The circus was a HUGE success in Latin America. It was so popular that Orrin was able to afford to build a permanent venue. The circus operated inside, what is now the Teatro Blanquita in the Centro Histórico, for over 26 years! When Eduardo Orrin finally closed the circus, he turned his eyes on real estate development. And there was no place more promising than the area just south of the historic centre…what we know today as Roma Norte!

The Creation of Roma

In the late 19th century, the wealthy elite of Mexico City were fleeing the crumbling Centro Histórico. The Centro Histórico was literally sinking into the ground and the old architecture was deteriorating rapidly. The aristocracy of Mexico City were looking for wide-open spaces in which to build their mansions. They dreamt of modern, colonial architecture. Orrin, whose circus operated in the historic centre, heard these cries. So Orrin went about purchasing land to the south.

The name “Roma” was also Orrin’s idea and came from Circo Romano (Roman Circus.) Although somewhat dissimilar to today’s circus, the Roman Circus was the inspiration for his own money-making enterprise. Even the streets around Roma were inspired by the circus. Many of the roads were named after the Mexican cities where the Orrin Circus had travelled. You’ll find Puebla, Oxaca, Colima, Córdoba, Morelia and more!

Porfirio Era

Porfirio Diaz and his government were also interested in aiding the creation of this upper-class neighbourhood. The president was enthralled with the European cities he visited on his travels. He longed to make Mexico City as impressive as those European cities he so badly envied. Diaz and his government provided rich and modern infrastructure to the new colonial. This included running water lines and sewers. Sewers were a truly modern convenience that, at the time, only was available in the Roma neighbourhood!

Roma soon became a European aristocratic enclave. Inspired by the elegant boulevards of Paris, the street in Roma were widened. And many of the main streets were installed with double rows of trees. Medians were built in the centre of the roads to provide relaxing pedestrian walkways. In the 1940s and 1950s, the area drew in the best of the best of Mexico City. Artists, businessmen and politicians arrived in style. Famous chilangos such as Álvaro Obregón, David Alfaro Siqueiros and former president Mexico Luis Echeverría all found themselves living within these “walls”. 

The Great Downfall of Roma

But in the 1950s, after WWII, the city began instituting lower rent regulations in these neighbourhoods. This act brought in more lower-class residents. The wealthier class railed against these newcomers, and many started to leave the area. More exclusive and luxurious areas like Polanco began to pop up. Drawing the remainder of the upper class out of Roma for good.

In addition to the new residents, taller buildings began to pop up around the colonial mansion. “Ruining” the look of the peaceful “town,” causing a further exodus. But the tall buildings weren’t just an eyesore; they were unknowing starting to disturb the ground below them.

This all came to a head on September 19th, 1985, at seven in the morning. An earthquake with a magnitude of 8.0 hit Mexico City. Thousands of buildings were levelled, and over 10,000 people lost their life. In Roma alone, 472 buildings were partially or entirely collapsed. The neighbourhood fell into complete disrepair. The population declined from 95,000 inhabitants in 1970 to 35,000 in 1995.

Reconstruction efforts were slow in these lower-class neighbourhoods. Regulations were put into place that no new apartment buildings could be constructed or older constructions adapted. This was to ensure the area remained intact until it could be repaired. But, by happy accident, this ended up preserving the remaining historic buildings for future residents and travellers.

The Renaissance of Roma

In the last 10 years, the area has started to slowly become more and more gentrified. We are witnessing the rebirth and renaissance of Colonial Roma. Low rents and beautiful architecture brought the hipsters who have started to transform the streets once more. Today the area is home to some of the cities trendiest cafes, incredible street art, awe-inducing pastries, curated cocktails and top-class restaurants.

Architecture

Porfirian Art Deco

There are two main identifiable architecture styles in Roma; Porfirian Art Deco and Colonial Revival Style. The iconic architecture of Roma is marked by the fact that the new residents rejected the traditional Mexcian Baroque architecture found in the historic centre. That iconic red tezontle stone was replaced with wrought iron, crucial for highlighting the Art Deco elements.

French and Italian influences were also incorporated with Gothic and Moorish designs. Today, this combination of design styles is called “Porfirian architecture,” named after President Porfirio Diaz. Traditional Mexican brick and ceramics were replaced with modern metal and glass. Houses in this style were constructed up until 1910. 

Colonial Revival Style

After the Mexican Revolution (1910-1920), the houses and buildings took on a Neo-Colonial or Colonial Revival Style. The era after the Revolution served as the antithesis to the Porfirian. The new President Venustiano Carranza‘s government even gave out federal tax exemptions to those who built houses in the colonial-revival style. These neo-colonial houses displayed a sense of nationalism and featured plateresque elements, pinnacles and mixtilinear arches. Architects brought back traditional materials such as tezontle, cantera and Talavera tiles. As we walk along the streets, see if you can spot the various styles as we go!

Where to Stay

If you’d like to stay in Roma Norte, there are many boutique hotel options for you to explore. It might seem easy to use services like Airbnb as there are tons of low-cost options. But Airbnb has continued to cause rent inflation and rental shortages for locals. Everything we love about the area is on the verge of disappearing. Roma could easily turn into a tourist-only sector if this continues.

On the other hand, hotels create hundreds of jobs for the locals who live here. And in Roma Norte, they are some of the most beautiful hotels anywhere in the world! Many also have kitchens and family-style rooms to serve larger groups. So definitely give them a look before you go straight to Airbnb. In the end, if Airbnb is more budget-friendly for you, I totally get it. Just be sure to do your best to give as much of your time and money into the neighbourhood. To ensure you are continuing to support the hyper-local community.

Stanza $

Stanza is a great budget option just to the east of Roma Norte. It is located on the edge of the urban Pushkin Park. Despite the low price, the hotel has a great vibe and is located in a safe and quiet area. For the best rooms ask for one facing the park. The rooms are a little dated but clean and well-maintained. Perfect for those on a budget!

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Ignacia $$$

Ignacia Guest House is truly one of the best secrets hidden in Roma Norte. Under the purple blossoms of the Jacaranda tree lining the streets, you will be welcomed home. The house was originally an old 20th-century mansion that has been transformed into just six elegant suites. Since there are so few rooms, everyone who stays here feels like family.

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Each suite is designed differently, blending history and Mexican artisan tradition with contemporary design. In fact, Ignacia Guest House has been internationally acclaimed for its interior design, architecture, and restoration. During the day, guests can abandon their daily routine and enjoy the historical details, gardens, and spaces. They can have breakfast at the communal tables or in the garden under an orange tree in the morning. Book well in advance as the rooms are highly coveted by anyone in the know who visits Mexico City.

La Valise $$$

La Valise feels like the epitome of Mexico City living. It is a blend of luxury, comfort, style and relaxation. A little slice of heaven on the streets of La Roma. Located inside a 1920’s French-style townhouse, there are only three suites, each located on a different floor of the building. So you really feel like you have the place to yourself! Like you’re just a neighbourhood resident. Each room is uniquely decorated with Mexican antiques and one-of-a-kind interior decor. A splurge but a well-worth splurge!

What Sights to See

Plaza Río de Janeiro

One of the best places to enjoy a morning coffee and pastry is inside the stunning Plaza Río de Janeiro. Plaza Río de Janeiro (or Rio de Janeiro Square) was originally named Plaza Roma but it was renamed in 1922. Mexico was invited to attend the Brazilian centenary celebration in 1922 and wanted to pay tribute to their brotherly city. So they decided instead of building an entirely new park, they would just rename this one for them.

The columns of cacti that line the park’s edge create these wonderful architectural elements created out of the natural environment. The park’s pathways swirl and curl around the central parkette. Creating this almost mesmerizing and yet peaceful atmosphere.

Michelangelo’s David

One of the park’s most interesting features is the replica statue of Michelangelo‘s David. It stands in the centre of the park, looking over the central fountain. One might wonder why there is an Italian statue smack dab in the centre of the park dedicated to Brazil. In truth, there is no connection between the two. Simply, the city architects of the time were on a quest to turn Mexican parks into European squares. Going so far as creating these exact replicas. We will see more and more along the rest of our tour so keep an eye out!

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Edificio Rio de Janeiro

On either side of the park, you’ll find some incredible examples of old colonial and art deco mansions. Their stone and wrought iron Juliet balconies looking out towards the park are draped in their own set of greenery. The most important house surrounding the park is the Edificio Rio de Janeiro. It is found on the east side of the park. Easily identifiable by the large green awning and art deco lettering that marks its entrance. While the building is today called ‘Edificio Rio de Janeiro’ years ago, the house went by a very different name.

La Casa de las Brujas  

While the lower, street-level exterior is covered in wrought iron and art deco elements, these were added in the 1930s. The original castle-inspired red-brick building was built in 1908. The house was called the La Casa de las Brujas (The Witch’s House). It was nicknamed as such due to the pointed tower located in the corner of the building. It was thought to perfectly resemble a pointed witch’s hat. But the witch symbolism doesn’t stop there! Many people thought that the windows below the “hat” resembled a human face. The (now) bricked up ovals were the yes, the lintel was the nose and the pointed balcony the mouth. To get the effect, you need to look at the house from the northwest corner. And trust me, it’s hard to miss!

Rumours began to spread that only a witch could have devised such a creation. Stories say her name was La Pachita. And she would watch people coming about their business in the park from her windows. Perhaps looking for victims or buyers of her next spell. But sadly, the truth is much more boring. The house was designed by architect Enrique Sánchez Sedeño. He was working under the Porfiriato and was influenced by European designs. He drew on elements from Gothic architecture and Viennese-style windows to create the house we see today.

Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia

On Orizaba street, you’ll find the Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia. This church sits on the corner of Puebla street. The exterior of the church is awe-inspiring, filled with rich neo-romanesque decorations. This was the first church in Colonial Roma in 1910. One of my favourite aspects of the church is the neo-Gothic rose window above the entrance. The window is surrounded by ornate stone carvings of palm leaves. The stunning Italian-made stained glass windows are also filled with organic designs of plants and flowers. As the entirety of Roma feels like a living garden, the church fits right into that blooming environment.

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Casa Universitaria del Libro UNAM

Kiddie corner to the church is the Casa Universitaria del Libro UNAM, another iconic building from the history of Roma. It was built in 1920 and originally designed as an elegant residence for Joaquín Baranda MacGregor, a preeminent politician. The mansion was created by the same designer as the church. He chose for this house the art deco style so popular at the time. Today the house is iconic for its green wrought iron scalloped gates and bright green shutters. The building is a venue for various academic activities and book publications from the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México.

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If you have the chance to pop your head inside, definitely take advantage of that opportunity! The entrance features a large irregular hexagonal hall, with a central staircase leading up to a great stained glass. The stained glass features the church of San Francisco Javier in Tepotzotlan, one of the most beautiful churches in Mexico.

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Fuente de Cibeles

In the center of this large roundabout along Plaza Villa de Madrid is a mammoth circular plaza featuring a dramatic fountain. The Fuente de Cibeles made a replica of the original fountain of the same name found in Madrid. The city to which the plaza is also named. The community around the plaza were primarily residents originally from Spain. They wanted to bring something to Mexico City that represented their homeland. It was designed as a symbol to link both cities in their shared brotherhood. 

The Goddess Cybele

The fountain features the goddesses Cibele. She is the mistress of wild nature, sitting in her bronze chariot. Cibele is pulled by her companions, her two pet lions. They are a male and female, representing fertility. Cibele also is the godess of protection, also symbolized in the fearsome lions. She carries an oversized key in her hand, which indicates her power over earth. In the other hand, she carries a sceptre, a symbol of her power over the seasons.

Fittingly, as Cibele represents the seasons, she is surrounded in Springtime by Mexico City’s most impressive seasonal features; the Jacaranda trees. The best time of to see the Jacaranda trees is during later March and early April. This is when they are in full bloom and create a halo of purple blossoms all around the plaza. The plaza is surrounded by some very hip cafes and restaurants. It is a great place to return to while away a lazy afternoon.

Avenida Álvaro Obregón

Many people refer to Avenida Álvaro Obregón as the “main street” in Roma Norte. The best way to explore this street is to step into the pedestrian median. Walking between the two lanes of traffic. The design of the street was meant to replicate French boulevards, which also featured central medians.

Along the median, you can stop and sit on one of the many benches. Take a moment to relax under the trees or study the sculptures found along the way. The central walkway is home to bustling art and an antique market which pops up on the weekends.

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Remember Michalengo’s David we saw before? Well, the sculptures along this street are also replicas of famous Italian works of art. They feature characters from Greek and Roman mythology. There are twelve sculptures in total. The fountains include copies of Mirón‘s Discobolus, Michelangelo‘s Bacchus and the Venus de Milo.

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Edificio Balmori

Edificio Balmori / Balmori Building was built in 1922 and later renovated in 1991 to restore the damage from the 1985 earthquake. The building was designed to feature an eclectic combination of historical styles. The new Colonial Roma aimed to imitate European architecture. But they went about it in their own unique ways. This resulted in the amalgamations of style we see today. Study the building for long enough and you can spot; classical, art nouveau, belle epoque, and even Art Deco decorations.

Plaza Luis Cabrera

The delightful Plaza Luis Cabrera parkette is named after politician Luis Cabrera. Cabrera was known for speaking out against the government of Álvaro Obregón. He fought to protect the rights of the lower class. The square was designed to mirror Plaza Rio de Janeiro.

Beat Writers in Roma

The park sits on the edge of Orizaba and Zacatecas Street, a popular area in the 1950s for American writers. Authors like Jack Kerouac, William Burroughs and Allen Ginsberg made their pilgrimage to CDMX. Some of the writers were fleeing America for what they saw as a more romanticized, foreign land. Others (Burroughs) were literally fleeing drug possession charges. Either way, they saw Mexico City as somewhere they could indulge in their vices. In the 1950s, Roma was on the decline. These ex-pats could get away living in robust colonial mansions, drinking and eating all day for very little money.

Famously, Kerouac wrote many stories of his adventures using peyote. He and Burroughs would take it together and lie in the grass in the Plaza Luis Cabrera. Regaling each other of what they saw in their hallucinations. But Roma wasn’t all champagne and roses for these writers. William Burroughs lived just off Avenida Álvaro Obregón (where we stopped for tacos). It was here in 1951 that, after one too many drinks, Burroughs’s life would change forever. He and his wife were playing with his pistol when he accidentally shot her in the head. She died on the spot. Despite being accidental, Burroughs was convicted to a two-year suspended sentence. But the trauma of the incident spurred him on to become a better writer. And perhaps the reason he is so prolific today.

Huerto Roma Verde

Continuing east along Coahuila, walk until you reach the large intersection at Avenue Yucatan.. Across the street, on the east side, you will be able to spot a bright blue column. This giant structure is made of old water jugs that form the monumental entrance to the Huerto Roma Verde. Huerto Roma Verde is a cultural centre made from recovered property once destroyed by the 1985 earthquake. The land was abandoned for 27 years and used as a dumping ground. But Paco Ayala, who initiated the project, saw the 8,000 square feet as an opportunity. He saw the space as a place for regrowth and environmental education through art.

The self-managed community found inside these walls was created by grassroots environmental activists. It began as a small shared vegetable garden. Where residents who lived in small apartments without outdoor space could come and grow their own fresh food. From there, it grew to have a storage tower to collect rainwater, a recycling centre for solid waste and even several farm animals! Their aim is to focus on sustainability and promote the development of communities that are integrated into their local environments.

Much of the space is designed to be an urban garden with mind-bending art sculptures created within the living environment. While you can wander the space and just appreciate the artworks, you can also stop into the various pop-up businesses. They sell everything from organic cosmetics, vegan desserts and fresh coffee. There is also a small amphitheatre that frequently hosts musical performances. So be sure to poke your head around to see what you can find!

Ecoducto Río Piedad 

It might sound strange to send visitors to a highway as a sight to see in Mexico City but there is something extraordinary about this particular part of the Mexico City roadway. Walking halfway across the large overpass, stop in the middle of the road. Here you’ll see a long, plant-incrusted walkway called the Ecoducto Río Piedad.

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A Living Purifier

If you’ve ever travelled to New York, you’ll have heard of the high-line. A 1.45-mile-long elevated green park created on a former New York Central Railroad. Well, this is the same kind of concept here in Mexico City. This pedestrian path is surrounded on both sides by trees and aquatic plants. You’ll see people out for a run or walking their dogs. All the while meandering along atop one of the busiest highways in the city. The entire path extends from Chilpancingo metro to Monterrey Avenue with over 4,800 square meters of vegetation dotted across the path.

But the Ecoducto isn’t just a pretty pathway; it has an essential purpose. This is a recovered public space, with a system that cleans the polluted water out of the Piedad River. The water is piped in, and the living ecosystem atop the cement is fed by the water and purifies it in the process. The entire system captures 50 tons of carbon per year. And pumps out about 1% of the drainage water in Mexico City. While that might not seem like a lot, it is a step in the right direction. Hopefully, in the future, they will be able to create more of these beautiful systems that serve the environment and the community.

Mercado Medellin

Mercado Medellín, or Medellin Market, is my favourite farmer’s market in all of Mexico City. Not only is the marketplace large enough to feature everything you’d want in one place, it somehow still retains that friendly neighbourhood atmosphere. The market never feels too crowded and definitely not like it’s only there for the tourists. Shopping here makes you feel like a local and allows you to experience an authentic Mexican market.

The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by its red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior. Lookout on one side for a huge, decorated multicolour mural. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years. When the market was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur.

The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.”

The entire marketplace is now home to over 500 different stalls. While you can have a blast just wandering around on your own, check out our complete guided tour if you want to know the best shops to visit! And what you NEED to buy. 

Tepeji Street

If you are a fan of cinema, you should consider heading down to Tepeji street where you’ll find #22 Tepeji. This unassuming street is home to the exterior shooting location of the house featured in the award-winning film ‘Roma‘ by Alfonso Cuaron. In addition to this famous sight, if you look right across the street, you’ll see the real-life childhood home of the director. A plaque at #22 Tepeji commemorates this house as the film’s shooting location.

Roma and Mexico City in 1970

The film ‘Roma‘ is a must-watch for anyone visiting Mexico City. It follows the life of a live-in Mixteco housekeeper of a middle-class family. The Mixtecos, are the indigenous peoples of Mexico inhabiting the region known as La Mixteca. It is Cuarón’s semi-autobiographical take on life in the Colonia Roma in the 1970s. The film’s backdrop portrays the tensions over the land that is Colonia Roma. It shows student protestors fighting for the democratization of education. These freedom fighters were also asking for control of the university budget to be handed over to the students and teachers. They wanted political freedom for workers and peasants and quality education for everyone! They also fought for greater cultural diversity but sadly, their efforts resulted in the Corpus Christi Massacre of 1971. Nearly 120 protesters were killed, among them a fourteen-year-old boy. A sad but harsh reality of Mexico City’s history.

Where to Shop

Bazar El Oro

On Saturdays and Sundays, the Bazar El Oro pops up on the corner of El Oro and Colima street. Just down the road from the Fuente de Cibeles. It’s a wonderful and eclectic neighbourhood market filled with shops set up under brightly coloured tarps. Everything from traditional quesadillas to clothing, accessories, music, and coffee is on-sale here!

El Parián 

Just past Jalapa Street, stop just inside El Parián, the art-nouveau arcade. This incredible colonial building features eye-catching art-nouveau-style windows. Framing the windows are incredibly detailed stoned carvings with charming characters encircling the building.

Stepping inside, you’ll be able to admire the newly renovated covered shopping arcade. Shops line either side of the passageway. The interior is drenched in light, thanks to the glass ceiling above your head. The new arcade features a fantastical tiled floor, art deco-style decorations and a wash of greenery. It makes you feel like shopping inside a botanical garden!

Librería Ático

A few doors down from El Parián, you’ll come to a small store piled high are thousands of books. Librería Ático is one of those bookstores that feels lived in, in the best way possible. There is a combination of cheap, used books and antique volumes over 100 years old. While you might not find a huge selection of English-language books here, I love perusing the vintage collections. I always search out vintage coffee table books filled with pictures. They make for great conversation pieces. And you can use them to help study your Spanish!

Cafebrería El Péndulo Roma

If you prefer shopping for newer books, you must make your way over to Cafebrería El Péndulo Roma. Cafebrería El Péndulo is a bookstore chain, found across Mexico City. But each store has its own unique personality. Standing three storeys tall when you walk inside, look up to see all the bookshelves towering over you. It almost feels like entering the M.C Escher version of a bookstore. Péndulo always carries a wide selection of English language books. Real plants are dotted around the shop, bringing life into every corner you step inside.

HAPPENING

HAPPENING Roma Norte is one of my absolute favourite stores in Roma Norte. I come here all the time to find super unique, chic and modern gifts and clothing. One of my favourite things to bring back from trips is beautiful art prints and this store has some of the best. They don’t feel touristy at all but present gorgeous views of my favourite parts of Mexico City. Their selection of hand-made ceramics is also incredible and so aesthetically beautiful. If you’re looking for a really beautiful gift to bring home that feels like it imbues the energy of Mexico City this is the place to come to get it!

Vintage Hoe

One of the issues I find when visiting Vintage Stores in Mexico City is that the most popular ones focus too heavily on American Fashion. And while I think that’s wonderful for the locals, who see that as something unique, I’m looking for more of a local focus on vintage. And luckily for me, I found that inside Vintage Hoe. Although they still carry lots of American Brands, I find the vibes here to be genuinely representative of Mexico City. Walking inside the door, the well-curated, colourful clothing racks feel like entering a boutique clothing store rather than a vintage shop. In addition to clothing, they also have an incredible collection of accessories that are the perfect addition to lift any simplistic outfit.

Roma Records

If you’re a music of vinyl head, you must check out Roma Records. You’ll recognize this place from down the street by the hundreds of music stickers plastered over the front of the store, creating this incredible patchwork collage of musical taste. The store is small and a touch overpriced, but their curation is one of the reasons buying records here feels really special. Visiting record stores in a new city is always a great way to see what is new or popular in town. When I came in, I first saw a rare Placebo vinyl, and I was immediately excited to flip through the rest of their collection. Definitely stop in here if you’re in town.

Librería La Moraleja

Hiding away inside the charming antique glass windows of Librería La Moraleja are some of the most precious books in the city. Librería La Moraleja specializes in rare printings and modern but independent publishers. This book store is a great place to come to support local writers and publishers, and they really feature some gorgeous cover art that you’ll be proud to feature on your shelf. If you don’t read much Spanish but want to support the store, they frequently have a great selection of art books, postcards and prints that you can still buy to help treasure trove stores like this stay in business!

Tienda Trama

Further east along Coahuila Street is the joyful interiors of Tienda Trama. This shop is cooperative, meaning that everything you find here is made by a series of different local craftspeople and designers. So even if a smaller producer couldn’t afford to open their own shop, they can still sell their products direct to the customers. You can find everything from embroideries, ceramics, hand-made contemporary arts, kids’ clothes, and beautiful jewelry. All locally made and giving back to the community.

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I’m obsessed with buying mugs everywhere I travel. They feel like the perfect “souvenir” as it’s something I use every day. Pulling a mug out of the cabinet makes me so happy as I remember the travels I took to find it. A mug with one of their custom coffee blends makes the best gift to bring home! It has local flare without feeling too much like a cliche souvenir.

Where to get the Best Coffee

Le Babüin

The best place to start the day is with a good cup of coffee. Head to the southernmost part of the neighbourhood to Le Babüin cafe. This adorable coffee shop, named after the baboon in their logo, is a perfect slice of morning cheer. The staff are so friendly, and the caffeine that drips out of the espresso machines is first class. The sign above their door translates into the quote, “Everyone should believe in something. I think I’ll have another coffee.” Love it.

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Qūentin Café

The first time I went to Qūentin Café was early morning. But despite the sun barely rising above the horizon, the doorway was filled with people chatting to each other in such joyful voices; I thought a party was going on! Everyone seemed to know each other and were saying their morning greetings, dogs in tow, and it seemed like the most friendly atmosphere. But in addition to this, they have some of the best cappuccinos in the entire city!

Cardinal Casa de Café

Cardinal is one of the more popular chains in Mexico City that still feels like an independent coffee shop! Their baristas are friendly and know how to make the perfect cup of coffee. My favourite is their Cardinal cortado which mixes equal amounts of expresso and warm milk. It’s the ideal wake-me-up drink to get your day started right in the morning. This location is right on the corner of a local street, and the people-watching opportunities here are fantastic!

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Forte

Forte Coffee Shop has the most modern, historical and industrial vibe, all combined together. Their coffee bar is located in the center of the room, where everyone huddles together in the morning, chatting and drinking their early sunrise brew. In addition to gorgeous coffee, they also have homebaked goods, including mouth-watering pastries and some of the best homemade sourdough bread! This place is known for its incredible music selection, and I love coming here to just sit and listen to the tunes while I write in my diary.

Cucurucho Roma

Cucurucho Roma is a newer coffee shop that opened up in the southern part of the neighbourhood. But it has quickly become one of the hippest places in town! One of the reasons that drew me into this place was the charming and imaginative illustrations plastered all over the walls! These adorable characters feel like they imbue the personalities of the owners and visitors alike. They have some unique coffee blends, like their Horchata con espresso, that are lovely options for those who don’t like pure espresso.

Farmacia Internacional

Farmacia Internacional is one of those coffee shops almost hidden inside a sunken interior that once served as an actual pharmacy. Much of the original interior remains, like the old painted brick and antique tiled floor. It’s such a cool location with great coffee, and I love that it feels like a slice of preserved architectural history.

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Where to Eat

Panadería Rosetta

There is no better place to start your morning in Roma Norte than at Panadería Rosetta. Panadería Rosetta is a café that combines the best of French and European traditions with Mexican ones. The café offers a daily selection of baked goods. So there is always something extra special to try depending on what day you come by. They offer both sweet and savoury bread and sandwiches, cakes, muffins and more! Everything hidden away in their little glass cases is to die for. Their baked good is so delicious that this bakery delivers their goods to dozens of cafes around town. But I like coming right to the source!

Puebla Street Food

Puebla Street is famous for being packed with street vendors. Here is my quick guide on how to sample them safely:

• Choose freshly squeezed juice over agua frescas
• Eat in the morning to ensure food hasn’t been sitting out all day.
• Always eat food that you can see is being freshly cooked.
• Eat from vendors where the chef doesn’t handle the money or wears gloves when touching it.
• Avoid uncooked vegetables and fruit that may have been washed in unfiltered water
• Choose the stands with a line – a good sign they are reputable and the food is turned over quickly.
• Sanitize your hands before eating
• Avoid salsas and crema at street food stalls. It’s hard to tell if it has been left out in the sun without refrigeration.

Orinoco

If you were hesitant to try the street tacos, the famous Orinoco Taco is the perfect place to grab lunch. This is one of the most popular taco shops in Roma Norte. Best known for their famous trompo or taco al pastor. Taco al pastor or “shepherd style” tacos are made from spit-grilled pork. The dish was created after Lebanese immigrants introduced shawarma to Mexicans. The pork is marinaded in adobada (red chile) paste and spit roasted with a large pineapple placed on top.

When it is served, it is companied by sliced onions, cilantro and the all-important roasted pineapple. Added to give it that hint of sweetness. Taco al pastor is my favourite kind of taco, and there is no visit to Mexico City without trying them. You should really try all three traditional varieties to decide which one is your favourite. Pair the meal with an agua fresca and, of course, a side of Chicharron (fried pork rinds.)

Mercado Roma

If you’d rather grab something more substantial, make a detour along Insurgentes. Walk along for about eight minutes until you reach C. Querétaro. Just a few steps from the intersection is the food paradise of the Mercado Roma. The sprawling three-story “market” is more of a food hall. There are no fruit and vegetable stands here. Instead, you’ll find upscale tapas, vegan tacos, a rooftop beer garden and boutique-style dessert stands. The aim of the market was to bring the concept of a gourmet market together with the local community. You can sit around communal tables and perhaps even make a few new friends inside. 

Por Siempre Vegana

Right across the street from the market is one of the precious few vegan taquerias in the city. Por Siempre Vegana or Forever Vegan, located along Coahuila Street, prides itself on making traditional-style Mexican tacos without the meat! Being a vegan visitor in Mexico City is definitely getting more and more accessible over the years and places like this are the reason! Even if you’re a meat-eater it’s worth checking out. It’s impressive to see the techniques and ingredients they use to create these incredible dishes.

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Restaurante Rosetta

Make your way back up Orizaba to Colima Street. Colima Street is home to some of the best restaurants in the area. To end your evening in Roma Norte, make reservations at Rosetta restaurant. This incredible culinary experience is located inside an old villa whose courtyard has been restored to serve a the restaurant’s dining room. The entire place is filled with plants, making you feel as though you are dining al fresco. The ambiance is outstanding, and the dishes are ever-changing to suit the season. Locally sourced produce is reflected in the ever-changing menu. I always lean towards the chef’s inventive takes on traditional Mexican cusine. Dishes like the white mole with fermented carrots and charcoal are the perfect example of this modern take on classical dishes.

Tamales Doña Emi

If you are craving a snack, hop over to Tamales Doña Emi. If you’ve never managed to be up early in the morning to catch the street tamale vendor, this is a great place to try tamales! There are dozens of different varieties here to try. They have all the traditional fillings and some more eclectic and modern variations as well. Something for everyone.

Mercado 100

On the corner of Orizaba and C. Antonio M. Anza, just down the street, is the Mercado 100. The Mercado 100 is held every Sunday. It is one of the most unique markets you’ll find anywhere in the city. What makes the Mercado 100 so special is that they aim to be an ethical marketing alternative for organic, ecological and local producers. The market has been running for the past 8 years, and highlights over 50 producers from all over Mexico.

While there is lots of local produce for sale here, you can also buy packaged products. Everything from; honey, vanilla, sauces, chocolate, spices and more. These are wonderful things to buy to bring a slice of Mexico home with you. There are also local artisans selling their wares and handmade goods. Plus the street food, especially the vegan variety, is always incredibly fresh!

El Hidalguense

If you’re in town on Friday, Saturday or Sunday do you need to check out El Hidalguense! El Hidalguense is one of the top traditional Mexican restaurants in the entire city. The restaurant’s classic, old-world interior design makes you feel like you’re stepping back in time. And the dishes are made to bring your taste buds right back there with you. The restaurant specializes in barbacoa (barbeque) lamb tacos which send anyone drooling upon entering the restaurant.

This restaurant is only open on the weekends because the process takes all week to ensure the meat is perfectly cooked. The method of preparation dates all the way back to pre-Columbian times. They begin by digging a hole in the ground and covering it with heated stones. The stones heat the hole for an entire day before the core temperate is hot enough to cook the meat.

After this, the prepared sheep is wrapped in maguey leaves. The leaves give the meat insulation from the hot stones and flavour the meat while it cooks. The oven is then covered in the same leaves and a layer of earth. A fire is lit on top, and the meat is left to cook for around 12 hours or more. The result is incredible and a must–order from El Hidalguense. The atmosphere here is like walking into a huge family party, that has already gotten underway. Families gather to share large platters of slow-cooked meat. Even visitors like you will feel like family by the end of the meal.

Huset

If you’re looking for a place to eat under one of the most picturesque outdoor patios in the city, look no further than Huset. Huset serves up what they call “country cooking” with their unique wood-fired oven-prepared plates. Sitting outside at the communal tables, eating these elevated dishes, really feels like you’re inside a magical garden and is such a memorable place to find yourself on a warm evening. 

Lalo!

If you want to go to brunch and be guaranteed a smile, then you must visit Lalo! Lalo! is another popular brunch spot located in the Roma neighbourhood. Lalo! is the nickname of the owner and acclaimed chef Eduardo Garcia. Brunch is bustling here, so be prepared to wait a while to get a table but trust me, it’s worth it.

Painted on the cafe walls are these incredible colourful, feel-good drawings by Belgian graffiti artist Blue Warrior. They say you eat with your eyes, and being surrounded by these positive and happy-inducing images; you can’t help but eat while filled with pure joy. The most popular items on the menu are their huevos con chorizo and the Huevos fritos con salsa ranchers.

Lardo

Lardo is a beautiful brunch spot in the La Condesa neighbourhood. It’s located inside the old apartment buildings built by THE Condesa that the district is named after. I love how the restaurants are almost hidden away behind the crawling plants that cover the facade of the building. This area of town is so busy on the weekend, and the ambience outside the restaurant is just intoxicating. The menu features hip Mexican-European fusion food, which is as delicious to eat as it is mesmerizing to look at. 

Don’t leave without trying the Fried egg, chile con carne and avocado. The Mexican deconstructed version of avocado toast. My husband is obsessed with their selection of granola, and their baked granola served with red berries, and almond milk is a playful take on cereal. Reservations are recommended at this place since it’s one of the most popular spots in Condesa.

Comedor de los Milagros

To end your evening in Roma Sur, head up to the Comedor de los Milagros. The amazing communal party atmosphere inside is palpable. Comedor de los Milagros is a Latin American market, where you can try food from seven different Latin American countries. There are seven restaurant booths surrounding the wide-open room where guests dine on long, communal picnic benches. The food is representative of Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Uruguay, Peru, Venezuela and Mexico. Peruvian ceviche, Argentinian steak, and even a slew of vegan options as well can all be found inside!

The upper balcony is covered in wall murals and living plants to give the vibe of being outside! It’s the most lively place to be at night, but on the weekend, be prepared to wait in line as it’s one of the hottest places in town. But well worth the effort to get inside!

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Where to Find the Best Desserts

Helados Cometa

In my opinion, no meal (especially dinner) is complete without dessert! Head next door to Helados Cometa for some of the best ice creams in the entire city! Everything here is made from scratch. Unlike other shops in the city with an overwhelming menu, their selection is small but flawless. Ensuring every bite is made to perfection. Even their cones are handmade and have an added element of salt which wonderfully complements the sweet cream! Try the honey and pistachio, or rose and pistachio (pretty much anything with pistachio!)

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Where to Get a Drink

Casa Prunes

Just south of Cafebrería El Péndulo is the Casa Prunes. The Casa Prunes is hidden away on historic Chihuahua street. Despite its rather obscure location, it is one of the best remaining examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Roma. True art-nouveau has all but disappeared. Save for this location. It is indeed a rare bird. The architects were inspired by the natural forms of the prune tree. You can see the arching branches and even bunches of prunes hanging off the stone window carvings.

Despite its artistic impact, the house was left abandoned for years. Only recently has it been renovated. You can now step inside and enjoy a drink in this chic cocktail bar.

Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón

For those who don’t want the night to end, or like me, want to poke their heads into every building, you can safely bar hop along with the Avenida Álvaro Obregón. Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón is my favourite bar, thanks for their out-of-this-world, skeletal decor! Their cocktail menu is IMMENSE and highlights (as is the name of the bar infers) gin! As the night wears on, a DJ will sometimes play live music. While this can get very loud, if that’s your vibe, you’ll really enjoy yourself.

Licorería Limantour

Licorería Limantour is one of the most popular bars in Mexico City. It just made it onto the World’s Best Bars list at #6! One of the reasons it has made such an impact is its menu. It combines the trendiest cocktails with tried and true recipes that stand the test of time. I sampled so many drinks with flavour combinations I never imagined, but they tasted like perfection! Licorería Limantour’s locations are suberbly decorated with elegant interiors that match the friendly vibe of the place. Reservations are recommended as this place is one of the most popular spots in the city!

Café de Nadie

I’m not going to lie; when walking by this bar, I glanced at the drinks menu and immediately walked straight based on the names of the drinks. With names like “Standing Next to Me,” “My Mistakes were made for you,” and “The Meeting Place,” I was entranced by the originality. Little did I know, this bar is known for its incredible music! The nights often feature amazing DJs spinning vintage vinyl records combined with some trendiest music in town. This is the place to come if you want to learn more about the laid-back music scene in Mexico City.

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Where to Find the Best Museums

Looking to find a way to spend the rest of your afternoon? Consider a visit to one of Roma’s many museums.

MODO Museo del Objeto

My favourite museum in Roma Norte is the MODO Museo del Objeto. I love to study vintage packaging, advertising, and graphic deisgn. These items and practical objects, dating as far back as 1810, tell a rich story about the culture and communities they served. The museum started as one man’s personal collection and today contains over 30,000 items. Bruno Newman is a researcher looking into the history of design and communications. This museum is a wonderful chance for him to share his finding with the rest of us!

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Casa Lamm Culture Center

Casa Lamm is now a fantastic gallery and cultural center. But when it was first built in 1911, it served as an aristocratic residence. Although the family never got around to living in it. The mansion was designed to be emblematic of the Euro-Mexican style. Encompassing as many European design elements as possible. But Casa Lamm manages to do it elegantly where all the ornaments somehow feel cohesive.

After changing hands several times, the house was transformed and saved from utter ruin in 1993. It was turned into the Casa Lamm Culture Center. The centre set out to serve and educate the community in academic and artistic endeavours. Today, students can receive their BA, Master or Doctorates in Art History, Museum Management, Art Curatorship and Creative Writing.

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But the public can enter the centre to explore various public areas. There is the fantastic Liberia Pegaso bookstore. Here you can find some incredible books on the art and architecture of Mexico City. You can also explore their various galleries featuring a rotating list of contemporary artists. You can also explore their gorgeous garden filled with exemplary sculptures from famous and up-and-coming Mexican artists.

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Galleria OMR

If you’re into contemporary, avant-garde art, you should make a point to visit the OMR Gallery. The OMR prides itself on representing emerging and established contemporary artists. Many of these artists are instrumental in the development of Mexico City’s contemporary art scene. The gallery is located inside an industrial-style building, perfect for featuring these contemporary works of art. The space blends together the indoors and outdoors. Allowing the artworks to pour out into the courtyard to best serve the artistic experience.

Lulu Gallery

If indie movies aren’t your thing, head over to the western edge of Roma Sur. Here you can pop your head into the fresh exhibitions at Lulu Gallery. Lulu is an independent, Mexico City-based art project space. The gallery specializes in artworks created out of interesting materials and forms. While some galleries feature work that tends to be more about the message than form, this gallery flips that concept on its head. What you’re left with are some really really cool works of art that draw you in and yet don’t ask too much of your brain. Which I always think is a great way to approach art.

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Many people know of Van Gogh‘s work, but they often think of him as nothing more than a madman who cut off his ear. But Beyond Van Gogh aims to change that perspective. They take lengthy efforts to make the viewer focus on his creative process and the true meaning behind his paintings. The show also highlights Van Gogh’s personal letters to his beloved brother Theo. These help to reframe his life. Through intimate conversations with his dear brother, you learn more about the man behind the madness and magnificence.

Table Of Contents

1. Immersive Exhibitions
2. Turning Art into Animation
3. The Score
4. What is the Difference Between All These Van Gogh Shows?
5. So, is it worth the Price?
6. About Van Gogh
   • Early Life
   • Van Gogh in Paris
   • Impressionism
   • Vincent in Arles
   • Van Gogh and Gaugin
   • The Ear Incident
   • The Asylum
   • Van Gogh's Death
   • Van Gogh's Legacy
7. Where to See Beyond Van Gogh
   • Happy Travels, Adventurers!

Immersive Exhibitions

These immersive exhibits are unique as they use cutting-edge projection technology and access digital versions of Van Gogh’s artworks. Van Gogh’s paintings were digitally scanned in high-res and then projected onto the walls and floor to create this new way of presenting art. Beyond Van Gogh aims to create an engaging journey into the world of Van Gogh, not simply show you the paintings on screen.

The first time I saw an exhibition like this was in Les-Baux-de-Provence at the Carrières de Lumières. This was my first time viewing such an all-encompassing immersive digital experience, and I was immediately hooked. Bringing together 300 paintings from Van Gogh together in one room would be something virtually impossible for a brick-and-mortar art gallery. And if not impossible, incredibly expensive!

Turning Art into Animation

I know many high-art critics view this kind of exhibit with a bit of disdain. They think of them as nothing more than empty instagrammable backdrops. One of the things that made Van Gogh’s artwork so unique is the textural nature of the paint. And by using projections, all of the three-dimensional aspects of his works disappear. And while this is true, I think there is something to say about this modern technology. It brings a level of excitement and interest to these artworks that a younger generation might be more drawn to. This kind of exhibit might feel as exciting to the modern audience as impressionist paintings once did to a 20th-century audience.

But the paintings are not just projected onto the walls; they are also brought to life by subtle animations in the vein of Van Gogh’s art style. The paintbrushes swirl, dance and move around the room. The flowers, cafes and landscapes suddenly draw us in like never before. We are inside the ‘Yellow House‘ or sitting down the ‘Cafe Terrace at Night.’ The exhibition uses Van Gogh’s dreams, thoughts, and words to drive the experience as a narrative. While the show might be missing that high-brow contextualization that many art galleries spend years curating, I think it is a beautiful way to get people more engaged with art. And perhaps even take the time to learn a little more about it after the fact.

The Score

The whole show is made even more immersive with the incredible score. Sitting there listening to the music as we watched the walls transform felt like a waterfall over my senses. As Vivaldi‘s Four Seasons played in the background we watched the almond blossoms fall from the trees and swirl around us. I am not ashamed to say I felt a tear fall from my eye during this scene. The soundtrack is available on Spotify so you can relive the experience when you get home.

What is the Difference Between All These Van Gogh Shows?

It’s almost shocking to see how many different companies are running various immersive multimedia shows featuring Van Gogh. In some cities, they were even running at the same time. This lead to confusion when people would show up at the incorrect location with the wrong ticket. Each one of these shows has its own take on the works of art. I can only speak to the one show I saw but if you’re interested in others it’s always a good idea to read a bit about it from reviewers you trust.

So, is it worth the Price?

This is the BIG question! An adult ticket to see Beyond Van Gogh will run you about $40! This means a date night out for two (if you factor in paid parking) is creeping up to $100. That certainly isn’t cheap. The entire run of the show lasts 1-hour and $40 per person for one hour of entertainment is definitely on the high end of the price scale! Although they say you can only stay for an hour, we were easily there for longer.

We used the first hour to just watch the show in its entirety. Taking in the story the art and animation were trying to tell. Then during the second loop, we walked around the room. Exploring the magical environment from all angles. This is definitely recommended as different parts of the room display different artworks.

Especially during the pandemic, shows like these feel extra special. So maybe $40 might seem steep but with not much else to do we really felt like it was worth it. It wouldn’t be something we’d do all the time but for a once-in-a-blue moon exhibit, it was really fun to get out there and see something fun! I think if you’re a fan of the artist and commit yourself to explore the space you’ll appreciate the experience even more.

If you can’t afford the hefty price tag, consider watching ‘Loving Vincent‘ on Netflix. This fantastical film is a fictionalized look at the life of Vincent Van Gogh. But what makes it so incredible to watch was that it was made to look like his painting. Over 65,000 frames were painted by 125 professional artists to create the first painted animated film. The film also makes for a great primer to watch before coming to the exhibition as well.

About Van Gogh

Vincent Van Gogh is an artist whose paintings have been exhibited all over the world. But during his lifetime, he never could have imagined that kind of production would have even been a possibility. During his life, Van Gogh created over 2,100 artworks, including around 860 oil paintings. And yet he only ever sold one. He died feeling like a failure but he would go onto be one of the most beloved artists of all time. If you’ve never seen the clip from Doctor Who featuring Vincent Van Gogh viewing his artwork in the future you have to check it out! It’s a real tearjerker.

What I read time and time again in reviews of this exhibition was that it lacked any real information about Van Gogh himself. So I created this little primer for viewers to read if you’re interested in having some contextual references to the paintings and his life as a tormented artist.

Early Life

Van Gogh lived a short but intense life. He was born in Holland in 1853 to an upper-middle-class family. Even in his early life, his parents noticed that he was a serious, withdrawn child. But despite his indifference to other children, Vincent clung to his brother Theo. In 1869 Vincent became an art dealer for his uncle. Although he wasn’t successful in his sales, he became enamoured with the art world. After unsuccessfully going from job to job, Vincent fell into even deeper depression and ill health. Modern analysis of his sickness leads professionals to believe that he suffered from bipolar disorder. In so many stories about Van Gogh he seems to vacillate from being highly productive and driven to being in a manic state. During these manic states, his depression was all he could see around him.

In 1881 Vincent took up painting more seriously for the first time with financial help from his brother Theo. Vincent moved in with his parents to save money. From their home in Etten Vincent would write hundreds of letters back and forth to his brother about his artistic journey. When he began painting, he started with depictions of village life in Etten. These early paintings were drabber, without the vivid colours that are so iconic of his later artworks.

Van Gogh in Paris

As his love for painting continued, Vincent took the opportunity to move in with Theo in Paris. It was in Paris where his paintings really came alive! Despite the brother’s love for each other, Theo found living with Vincent “almost unbearable.” And yet other times, things were peaceful between the two. One can only imagine this was due to Vincent’s bipolar.

Impressionism

It was also in Paris where he met other painters like Émile Bernard and Paul Gauguin. They inspired his work to go further and become more experimental. This would eventually develop into the art form we know of as Impressionism. The subject of his paintings began to focus on portraits, flowers and wheat fields.

In 1887, Vincent was inspired by working with artist Signac and adopted elements of pointillism into his artworks. Pointillism is a technique where the artist uses a multitude of small coloured dots on the canvas. This creates an optical blend of hues when looked at from a distance. These dramatic gestural dots and lines really feel like they convey the emotion and frantic nature of Van Gogh’s inner monologue. When combined with the vibrant contrasts of the complementary colours, you are left with a picture that seems to almost reverberate. But life in Paris was rough for Van Gogh. He was suffering more and more from his mental illness, made worse by the busy city life. So Van Gogh sought refuge in the provencial town of Arles.

Vincent in Arles

Vincent moved to Arles in 1888. It was there that he seemed, at least for a time, to get a breath of fresh air. In Arles, he aimed to set up a de-facto artist colony, inviting different artists to visit him in his now famous ‘Yellow House.‘ The country life and relaxing atmosphere of Arles set Van Gogh’s work on fire. In just one year, he produced more than 200 paintings and 100 watercolours!

Van Gogh and Gaugin

But even in Arles, Van Gogh couldn’t escape his poor mental health. One of the most dramatic events in Van Gogh’s life occurred in Arles in 1888. Vincent had begged Paul Gaugin to come to Arles so the two men could paint together. Vincent had met Gaugin in Paris and had immediately fallen in love with his work. He wanted to be as successful as Gaugin and thought by sharing a studio with the artist he could improve on his own work. Although the two started off on the right foot, Gauguin was arrogant and domineering. This frustrated the sensitive Van Gogh. Vincent was also very clingy, and despite not being treated very well by Gauguin, he feared he would leave him. A classic emotionally abusive relationship.

The Ear Incident

One evening, after Gauguin had made it clear to Vincent that he had made plans to leave, Van Gogh returned home alone. Suffering from hearing voices, especially when left alone, Van Gogh was tormented. In a fit of madness, he cut off his ear. Perhaps as a means to cut out the noise of the voices. Van Gogh bandaged the wound, wrapped the ear in the paper. He delivered it to a cleaning woman who worked at a local brothel that Gaugin and Van Gogh frequented together.

Van Gogh was found unconscious the following day by a policeman and taken directly to the hospital. Inside his hospital, Félix Rey, a young doctor still in training, treated him. During his time in hospital, Van Gogh was diagnosed with “acute mania with generalized delirium.” During his stay, Vincent would go from being semi-lucid to suffering from hallucinations and delusions. Theo came to visit him in hospital despite getting engaged the day previous. Nothing would keep Theo from being by Vincent’s side.

The Asylum

Two months later, in May 1889, Van Gogh left Arles and voluntarily entered an asylum in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. It was from this room in the asylums that the view of “Starry Night” was inspired. In a letter to Theo, Van Gogh famously wrote,

Sometimes moods of indescribable anguish, sometimes moments when the veil of time and fatality of circumstances seemed to be torn apart for an instant.

Vincent Van Gogh

Van Gogh had two rooms inside the Asylum, one of which he used as his studio. Even when he was too ill to write or eat, Van Gogh would paint. As a means of expressing his pain. After the birth of his nephew, Van Gogh wrote to Theo, saying,

I started right away to take a picture for him, to hang in their bedroom, branches of white almond blossom against a blue sky.

Vincent Van Gogh

This image is heartbreaking to look at now. As Theo’s young son would never come to know his uncle, nor much of his father.

Van Gogh’s Death

Van Gogh discharged himself in May 1890. He headed for Auvers-Sur-Oise, a town close to his brother and his homeopathic doctor, Paul Gachet. But despite treatment and being back in the countryside, which Vincent loved so dearly, Vincent met his end on July 27th, 1890. One morning, Van Gogh walked out into one of the many wheat fields he was painting. There, he claims he shot himself in the chest with a Lefaucheux revolver. Since no one was there to witness the event, we can only go off Vincent’s claims.

The injury itself is pretty suspicious. The wound was in the stomach, an unlikely place for someone to shoot themselves. Also, the bullet didn’t pass through his body, which is more commonly found if the shooter was further away and not at close range. This mystery surrounding his death is one of the many reasons that the mythology of Van Gogh’s life lives on.

Despite the injury, Vincent walked back home, where he was found by two doctors. The doctors were not surgeons and were unsuccessful in attempting to remove the bullet. Van Gogh clung to life for 30 hours, enough time to wait for Theo to arrive so he could die by his side. His last words to Theo were, “The sadness will last forever.“

Van Gogh’s Legacy

And for Theo, the sadness did last forever. Theo died only a year later, due mainly to what can only be described as a broken heart. Unlike other popular love stories that persist over the ages, this one of brotherly love is unique. I loved how the show presented this eternal love between the two brothers as a throughline that can be traced through Van Gogh’s work. Although Van Gogh only saw the sadness as what would last forever, I truly know that it was not sadness but love that endures eternally in his art.

Where to See Beyond Van Gogh

Ottawa | August 24 – Sep 16, 2021
Calgary | August 24 – September 2021
Miami | April 15–September 12, 2021
Austin |June 18–September 5, 2021
Honolulu | July 2–September 26, 2021
Orange County, California | July 20–September 6, 2021
Buffalo | August 20–October 3, 2021
San Jose | September 26–November 14, 2021
Salt Lake City | October 1–November 28, 2021
St. Louis | October 8–November 7, 2021
San Diego | January 14–March 6, 2022

All in all, I’m excited for more of these new immersive exhibitions that will be released. Beyond Monet is the latest offering from the “Beyond” group and looks even more enjoyable with the addition of some interior decorations for visitors to explore. We hope they reassess the steep price tag, making the productions more accessible to a broader range of people. But only time will tell.

What artist would you be interested in seeing next? For me, it’s gotta be Frida Kahlo! I would be amazed to see what they could do with her surreal paintings. Let me know in the comments what you’d be interested in seeing.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Everything You Need About Beyond Van Gogh’s Unforgettable Immersive Exhibition first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Methought I heard a voice cry, “Sleep no more! Macbeth does murder sleep” – the innocent sleep, Sleep that knits up the raveled sleave of care, The death of each day’s life, sore labor’s bath, Balm of hurt minds, great nature’s second course, Chief nourisher in life’s feast. – Shakespeare’s Macbeth

Sitting here in the dead of winter, during the pandemic, I have time and time again closed my eyes and “dreamt I went to Manderley again…” I am dreaming of the time when I can return to New York and see ‘Sleep No More‘ again.

I had heard about ‘Sleep No More’ from various friends who had gone to see it and just raved about it. But the price tag always made me hesitate. Anyone who has gone to see it is oddly secretive about the experience. Therefore, I found it hard to validate spending $100+ per ticket when no one would tell me anything about it! But finally, after much back and forth and some encouragement from my friend, we bought our tickets. And I can safely say it was the best money I ever spent!

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While I don’t want to spoil the experience for anyone, there are a few things I wish I’d known before walking into the doors. So if you’re curious and want a few clues as to how to make the most of your experience, then read on. This post is spoiler-free but I do have an additional guide with some spoilers. This is for those who want a more in-depth review of my experience.

Guide to Sleep no More

1. What is 'Sleep No More'?
2. Buying Tickets & When to Arrive
   • Ticket Options
   • When to Arrive
   • Covid Protocols
   • Coat Check
3. About the McKittrick Hotel
   • How to get there
4. What's with the Masks?
5. What to Wear
6. Accessibility
7. Be Warned…
8. Strategies for 'Sleep No More'
   • Follow an Actor
   • Search and Explore
9. More Tips
   • Leave Your Friends Behind
   • Follow the Music
   • It's 18+ for a Reason
10. Arriving at the Hotel
11. A Brief Summary of the Story
    • About Macbeth 
    • About Rebecca
    • About the Paisley Witch Trials

What is ‘Sleep No More’?

‘Sleep No More’ is an interactive and immersive stage production. It is loosely based on William Shakespeare‘s Macbeth but set in a 1930’s film noir aesthetic. The show contains almost no dialogue but is filled with interpretive dancing to convey the scenes or stories. Unlike typical theatre, where you sit in one seat for the entire show and watch the plot unfold in front of you, ‘Sleep No More’ acts more like a choose your own adventure. The show takes place in the fictional “McKittrick Hotel,” which has many different levels to explore. There are over 100 rooms where you can follow the action and discover hidden secrets.

The three-hour performance is actually a one-hour loop performed three times. This way you can study the entire show from multiple angles, sometimes literally. You can see what might have been going on in a different part of the hotel while something else totally different is taking place down below.

The entire show doesn’t unfold in a perfectly linear fashion. While some storylines have a beginning, middle and end, others are tougher to put together. It is more like a piece of artwork to be interpreted and discussed. All that being said, it is absolutely one of the most unique experiences you will ever have. All the guests have the option to do whatever they want while they are inside the hotel. You can follow one actor/character throughout the entire hotel discovering their plotline or simple study and interact with the props found throughout the hotel. 

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Buying Tickets & When to Arrive

Sleep No More is back in 2022 after being shut down for more than two years due to the global pandemic. There are different options when it comes to buying a ticket; Maximilian’s Guest, Oz’s Guest or a Standard Ticket. All tickets are cheaper during the week rather than on the weekend so if you’re looking to save money definitely go for the weekday tickets. I also find weekdays to have a less boisterous crowd and the space is generally less crowded.

Ticket Options

Maximilian’s Guest tickets cost $314-360 per person! Your ticket includes a glass of fine champagne, a complimentary coat check and a reserved seat inside the Manderley Bar. Oz’s Guest tickets are $160-195 per person and include everything except for the champagne. I don’t know about you but I don’t think any champagne is worth that price! The last option is the standard ticket which costs $114-149 per person. There is nothing included in this ticket except for the entry. But since coat check only costs $4 there really is no reason not to get the cheapest ticket. The reserved table is only a benefit for those who don’t wanna go right into the hotel upon entering. Save your money and opt to go to a bar after the fact.

When to Arrive

Choose the earliest admission when booking your ticket. This means you’ll have the longest amount of time inside the hotel. Even with the earliest admission, go to the hotel to line up 30 minutes before that time. We purchased the standard tickets, arrived about 20 mins early and still got to spend around two and a half hours inside.

Covid Protocols

After booking your tickets, guests will receive an advisement email 24 -48 hours prior to their visit with the latest guidelines and requirements. As of March 7th, 2022, all guests must present a valid photo ID along with proof of full vaccination in the form of a physical or digital COVID-19 Vaccination Card. Guests are required to have received their final COVID-19 vaccine dose at least fourteen days prior to their reservation.

All guests will be provided with a KN95 mask upon entry which is required to be worn the entire time inside. This is worn under your Sleep No More theatrical mask that has been modified to fit on top of the KN95 masks. The sought-after 1-1’s have been altered to follow covid more strict protocols and generally, guests are asked to give each other some space. But since everyone often crowds into certain small areas this often is something that isn’t strictly followed.

Coat Check

You cannot bring anything inside the hotel with you—no phones allowed, no bags, and no coats. Everything MUST be left at the coat check, which is compulsory. If you didn’t get the coat check included in your ticket it costs $4.00 per person. Remember to bring some cash for the coat check as it speeds the check-in process along.

About the McKittrick Hotel

The location of ‘Sleep No More’ takes place inside the doors of the old McKittrick Hotel. The McKittrick Hotel was built in 1939 and was intended to be one of New York’s finest luxury hotels. But before it could open the hotel’s investors lost their capital to the war efforts. The hotel was left abandoned and condemned for over 50 years….or at least that’s the fictional story of the hotel. Ok, in reality, the buildings which are now used for the production were various old warehouses in Chelsea combined and converted just for the show. Over 100,000-square-feet (9,300 m2) were transformed by the Punchdown theatre company to create the great McKittrick Hotel. You can explore five floors throughout the show and a secret sixth floor, which only a few lucky visitors will experience.

How to get there

The hotel is located at 530 West 27th Street, between 10th and 11th Avenue. The nearest subway stop on the C or E train is either 23rd Street or 34th Street. From there, it’s about a 10-minute walk to the hotel. If you are trying to get there by taxi or uber, be aware that 27th street is not a thru-street, so it’s best to get picked up or dropped off a few streets over.

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What’s with the Masks?

All guests are required to wear a mask throughout the entire experience. One of the reasons for this is that all the guests wear masks, but the actors do not. Therefore you can tell who is a guest and who is an actor. This design is a replica of the old Venetian Bauta masks, which were designed to hide the wearer’s identity. In ancient Venice, this allowed rich aristocrats to partake in some otherwise frowned-upon activities. While wearing a mask might seem odd, the show aims to make you feel like a voyeur peeking in on the actors. Sporting a disguise allows you to feel braver and perhaps let your guard down. You might feel less inhibited and even step out of your comfort zone.

If you wear glasses, the mask will not fit over the top of them. If you can get contacts, this might be the only way to enjoy the experience (which admittedly feels a little ableist). We’ve tried to figure out how to fit glasses over top of the mask, and it’s virtually impossible or at the very least uncomfortable.

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What to Wear

What you wear to see the show is super important. The most critical of which is your choice of footwear! Since the night can be as long as three hours, you want to wear comfortable shoes. I saw so many people there wearing high heels, and by the end of the evening, they were leaning on walls and looked more exhausted than excited. If you are interested in following one character’s storyline, sometimes this requires you literally run after them to ensure they don’t get away and you miss their next scene. Without good shoes, you can’t chase after them.

I also think wearing something breathable and not too warm is helpful. It can get hot inside, and if you’re running around, you don’t want to be wearing a wool cardigan. Since you have to coat check anyways, you can always wear something warmer there and leave those extra layers at the coat check.

Another thing which is a strange one but is a MUST is a wristwatch! Since you won’t have your phone to tell the time, a watch will help you gauge how long you have been inside. Or when the first or second loop of the show might end. While getting lost is part of the experience, if you’re someone who wants to get the most out of it, having a watch to tell the time might help you out.

Accessibility

Sadly, while you ride an elevator up when entering the hotel for the first time, the experience is not wheelchair or walking aid friendly as the elevator is not for public use after that point. So much of the show involves moving around dark, narrow passageways, sometimes very quickly. Accessing the various floors is done by using the steep wrought-iron staircases. If you have a hard time standing for an extended period or need a mobility aid, this might be a challenging outing for you. I really hope they change it over time to make it more accessible, but it seems unlikely since the show has been running for so long. The entire production is also very, very dark, so if you have low vision or claustrophobia, you might also want to give it a miss.

Be Warned…

The show is not just an immersive experience. It is an interactive experience. Actors approach you very closely and may even touch you. They might even pull you with them to another room for the elusive 1:1s. If you don’t want to interact that closely with them the actors are very good at respecting if you pull away. But if you are super shy, just stay in the back or in a group of people. If you are interested in a more intimate experience, go to the front and don’t be afraid of getting close to the actors. But please respect everyone’s boundaries and only touch the actors if they interact with you first and of course don’t be a creep.

There are various employees who wear black masks located throughout the show, these are essentially security guards there to protect the actors and keep the audience from entering any off-limit areas. If you are using your phone or talking too loudly they will step in to warn or remove you from the show. They are also there to give you directions if you to find a washroom.

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Strategies for ‘Sleep No More’

Follow an Actor

Personally, I think there are two main strategies you can use to experience the show. The first is to follow one character as soon as you get inside. This allows you to see their storyline from start to finish. This definitely is an excellent choice for first-timers, as it feels like you are following a more linear storyline.

If you are the first to get inside the hotel, all the main characters will be gathered in the basement where King Duncan is hosting a ball. There you can choose an actor who piques your interest and follow them from there. But remember, they move quickly, so be ready to run. If you don’t arrive right at the start of the first loop, make it a point once you enter to find a scene or group of actors and follow whoever interests you. If you don’t see anyone right away, just keep moving, and you will find them soon enough.

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Search and Explore

The second way is to investigate. This means more or less ignoring the actors but going off on your own and exploring the entirety of the building. You are allowed to look inside drawers, pull books off shelves and read them. Open doors, find keys to locked rooms. Even crawl through hidden access points. There is so much to explore in the hotel. Every little thing is a clue to the story you are literally living in. It’s not very often you are given carte blanche to be a voyeur, to go through other people’s belongings or snoop inside medical records. So use this change to your advantage. And of course, you can blend a little bit of either strategy together to experience everything the hotel has to offer.

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More Tips

Leave Your Friends Behind

While you might feel like you want to stay close with the group you came with, the experience is intended to be your own. Everyone finds their own interests in the show. It’s essential to allow yourself to explore what you are drawn to and your own personal desires. Talking is absolutely banned, so it’s not like you can chat with your friends anyway. If you feel really scared and apprehensive make a plan with whoever you’re with to head inside the first few rooms together and then break away separately for the rest of the evening. This allows you to slowly get used to the atmosphere but then break out on your own.

Follow the Music

Music is a vital part of the show. In fact, it is the only way in which the actors are given any cues. There is no central control room. At only three points in the show, the same music plays in all the different parts of the building. If you feel lost or like you might want to rejoin a large scene, keep an ear to the ground for loud music, and you will surely be lead towards the actors. On the other hand, if you want to get away from the crowds, stick to the more quiet parts of the building.

It’s 18+ for a Reason

All guests attending Sleep No More must be over the age of 18 years with valid ID. Any guest under the age of 18 years old must be accompanied at all times by a ticketed parent or legal guardian. A signed Under-18 waiver must be submitted by the ticketed guardian at time of entry to the house manager on duty. This is because not only does the show depict violence and has a lot of blood and gore there is full frontal-nudity in various portions of the show so you might want to re-thinking bringing the whole family.

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Arriving at the Hotel

After arriving at the hotel, your name will be on the guest list. Present your ID and give all your worldly possessions over to the coat check. You will then proceed over to the reception desk, where you’ll receive a playing card. You have no printed tickets. This playing card is the only “ticket” you’ll receive. Depending on your arrival time will determine the number on your card. The earlier you arrive, the earlier you will be let inside, so try to arrive as early as you can. This is as far as I will go in terms of discussing what happens when you enter as this is a spoiler-free post. But if you are interested in reading about the stories which influenced the plot of “Sleep No More’ read on!

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A Brief Summary of the Story

I know EVERYONE seems to say its best not to know anything about the show before you go, but I really disagree. While having your own experience and interpretation of what happened is great, just like in appreciating art, sometimes a bit of context goes a long way to helping you on your journey.

About Macbeth 

If you’ve never seen or read Macbeth, this little synopsis will help you out in understanding the scenes you might glimpse in on throughout the show. Macbeth is a general in the army of King Duncan, the King of Scotland. One night he is visited by three witches who prophesize that he will become King of Scotland.

King Duncan announces that his elder son Malcolm will become the new King after his death. Until that time he instructs Macbeth to care and guide him. When King Duncan comes to visit Macbeth’s manors, Lady Macbeth convinces Macbeth to carry out the prophecy and kill Duncan. Macbeth carries out the deed even though he is pained to do so. Malcolm flees in fear of his own life, only to be suspected of the killing, therefore allowing Macbeth to inherit the throne.

Banquo, Macbeth’s best friend and a general in King’s army, was privy to the meeting with the witches and suspects Macbeth. Macbeth has Banquo murdered, but his sons escape. Macbeth is visited by the ghost of Banquo, who haunts him. He meets with the witches once more who warn him that MacDuff, another nobleman in the army, is a danger to Macbeth. And he is convinced he must kill MacDuff. Macbeth has MacDuff’s family murdered and his property sized, but MacDuff himself escapes. The heir to the throne, Malcolm, returns to take back the kingdom against the murderer Macbeth.

Meanwhile, Lady Macbeth is slowly going insane, haunted by the ghosts of her actions. The doctors tell Macbeth she cannot be cured. MacDuff confronts Macbeth and kills him, bringing his head to Malcolm, who hails himself King of Scotland.

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About Rebecca

Woven into the Skaespearan plot are elements of Hitchcock‘s haunting gothic romance film ‘Rebecca‘ (which was just made into a modern Netflix film!). The plot of Rebecca concerns a young woman who marries a widow, Maxim de Winter. They return to live at Maxim de Winter‘s mansion called “Manderley“. There she meets the unkind Mrs. Danvers, who dislikes the new bride as Mrs. Danvers she was so close to his previous wife, Rebecca. The new Mrs. de Winter discovers that the previous marriage had been a shame. During a confrontation between the couple, Rebecca fell and struck her head. It might have looked like Mr. De Winters had killed her, so he took the body out in a boat and capsized it to make it look like she drowned. Mrs. Danvers, enraged by the discovery, sets Manderley on fire and kills herself in the blaze.

The story’s central theme is all about guilt and anxiety, as well as love, obsession and power. Throughout the show, keep an eye out for these themes and characters as they appear throughout. The Hitchcockian influences can be seen not only in the plot but in the set decorations and also the music that plays throughout the building. You will hear from time to timepieces from Bernard Herrmann‘s score from the movie ‘Vertigo’. Even the name, the McKittrick Hotel, comes from Hitchcock’s ‘Vertigo’.

About the Paisley Witch Trials

The third and final reference woven into the fabric of the show is the Paisley Witch Trials. These were the last European witch trials, which took place in Scotland in 1697. The witch trials involved accusations from an eleven-year-old aristocratic girl, Christian Shaw, who accused several of her family’s servants of being witches. In the end, seven people were found guilty of witchcraft and condemned to death by her words. The five who were hung were executed in Gallow Green. The town of Gallow Green can be found on the 4th floor of the hotel. Several of the accused men and women who died in the trails can be found wandering those streets. It is rumoured that before Agnes Naismith (one of the accused witches) died, she cursed everyone present at her trial and their descendants. Perhaps that curse still infects the grounds of Gallow Green today…

After the show, you can head up to the Gallow Green rooftop bar to enjoy a few themed drinks. Or you can also choose to stay in the Manderley Bar to enjoy some evening entertainment.

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Click here to see more about the experience as a whole and my personal account of the evening!

The post ‘Sleep No More’ – Everything you Need to Know About Visting the McKittrick Hotel [2022 UPDATED] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Admission
3. Access
4. Art Nouveau Architecture
   • Facade
   • Dome
   • Entrance
5. Interior Room & Halls
6. Francouzska Restaurant
7. The Plzenska Restaurant
8. American Bar
9. Kavárna Obecní dům Café
   • Tours of the Municipal House
   • Mayor's Room
10. Palacký Hall
11. Grégr Hall
12. Oriental Lounge
13. Riegr's Hall
14. Confectionary
15. The Smetana Concert Hall and Ballroom
    • iMucha's Exhibition
    • Happy Travels, Adventurers!

History

The medieval Royal Court of Prague once stood on this site. From 1383 until 1485, the Kings and Queens of Bohemia lived on the square nearby in their magnificent palace. The imperial residences were connected to the Royal Court by the nearby Powder Tower. But after Prague Castle was built, Vladislav II moved the Royal Court out to the newly fortified castle complex. After years of being unused, the old Royal Court building was eventually demolished. 

But in 1905, the city started construction on a Municipal House in the same spot as the previous court. They had it built here as this new building would serve as a modern interpretation of a medieval royal court. The building’s architects Osvald Polívka and Antonín Balšánek, set out to design the most magnificent establishment for high society. It was going to be THE PLACE to hold social events, concerts, parties and even public exhibitions. The architects hired some of the best Czech artists to decorate the interior of the new Municipal Hall. These artists’ work elevated the illustrious building’s status even further, creating a kind of artistic time capsule.

Admission

Inside there are a series of bars and restaurants open to the public. But to explore the entirety of the Municipal House, you must book a guided tour. These tours run in both Czech and English several times throughout the day. There are also handouts in other languages to allow more people to experience the building. The tour route goes from the famous Smetana Hall, through to the Confectionery hall. It then stops inside the Moravian Slovak, Božena Němcová, and Oriental Parlours. Followed by the Grégr, Palacký, Riegr, Sladkovský and most importantly, the Mayor’s Hall! The tour ends inside the American Bar in the basement of the Municipal House. Tickets for the tour cost 200 CZK per adult and reservations are recommended but not necessary.

Access

The Municipal House is located inside the old town and is easily walkable if you’re in the area. The closest metro station is Náměstí Republiky, which is only a four minutes walk from the Municipal House. You can also take trams No. 3, 9, 14, 24 to the Jindřišská stop, a 5-minute walk to the Municipal House.

Art Nouveau Architecture

The Municipal House became an icon for Prague’s fantastic Art Nouveau architecture from the minute it opened. Classical Art Nouveau features included in the building were; asymmetrical shapes, arches and curved forms, a large glass dome, plant-like embellishments, mosaics, stained glass and Japanese motifs. 

Facade

The exterior stonework is intricately carved, with vegetal details blooming from reliefs in every corner. The roof is replete with green and red tiles creating a snakeskin-like effect covering the top of the building. Along the facade are curving, ornate bronze balconies with golden leaves growing throughout.

Dome

The piece-de-resistance of the building is the bright green-domed roof, complete with gold trimmings. It feels like a regal crown on top of the rest of the structure. The dome also contains one of the most pleasing stained glass ceilings, which floods natural light into the concert hall. The dome was made to emphasize the Municipal House as a temple of the arts. 

Entrance

Above the building’s entrance, look up to see a brightly coloured mosaic designed by artists Karel Špillar. This piece is called “Prague Apotheosis.” It represents the oppression and eventual rebirth of the Czech people called. An apotheosis is the “highest point in the development of something; culmination or climax,” represented here in the architecture of Prague’s Municipal House.

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On either side of the mosaic are two bronze sculptures. The one on the left is called the “Humiliation of the Nation.” The woman in the center is surrounded in flowing robes, like angel wings. She holds her head to the side, almost as if ashamed to show her face. The sculpture on the right, contrastingly, is called the “Ressurection of the Nation.” This woman stands tall, with a bronze eagle perched on her forearm. The eagle, the symbol of Moravia and the rebirth of the Czech Republic. The Municipal House was built at the very end of the Czech National Revival movement. This cultural event occured during the 18th and 19th century. It’s purpose was to revive the Czech language, culture and national identity.

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Before you walk inside, you pass under a splendid wrought-iron canopy, covered in brightly coloured stained glass. The frontispiece a great example of how art nouveau uses every architectural details as an opportunity for ornamentation. The two columns supporting the entrance are topped with two brozen figures. In their are they carry an electric lantern made by Karel Novak. The models appear to mirror the shape of Atlas as he carries the world on his back. Almost as if to say that this building is itself on top of the world.

Interior Room & Halls

Inside the Municipal House, there are so many different places to eat, drink and be entertained. Each one of the rooms and halls inside was named after notable individuals from the Czech culture. You can eat lunch in an elegant French restaurant. Or drink pivo at a traditional Czech beer hall. Perhaps you want to enjoy a slice of cake (or two) at the stylish Czech café, or sip cocktails at the “American Bar“. If you really want to splash out you can attend a first-class concert at the fabulous Grand Concert Hall, all under one roof. All these places are accessible to the public.

If you cannot take a guided tour of the rest of the interiors read the rest of this post. I’ve made sure to talk about the most important rooms inside the Municipal House. This way, if you’re sitting inside the cafe, you can still peruse images of what the rest of the building looks like.

Francouzska Restaurant

If you don’t have time for a concert but are longing to enjoy the elegant art nouveau environment, choose from one of the many dining options inside the Prague’s Municipal House. Francouzska Restaurant is one of the finest culinary experiences you can have in Prague. Golden art nouveau inspired chandeliers pour off the high ceiling. The large windows allow the entire room to fill with light and all the gilt and glass details simply glimmer with excitement.

Throughout the restaurant, you’ll find original furnishings from the beginning of the 1920s. Even the silverware is period-perfect. Throughout the restaurant, you’ll find reproductions of decorative paintings such as “Prague Welcoming its Guest” by J. Wenig and “Hradcany and the New World” by A. Zahel in the salon. Stucco designs of the art nouveau period patterns adorn entertaining diners. Dining here is like entering a living museum. This is the most expensive of all the restaurants in the Municipal House but worth it for the experience. The restaurant is unfortunately temporarily closed until the end of 2020 for renovations.

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The Plzenska Restaurant

The Plzenska restaurant, which is on the lower level, is a slightly more affordable option. It is famous for its traditional Czech cuisine and friendly beer hall atmosphere. I think this is truly the best beer hall in the entirety of Prague. It is stunning to look at while also comfortably casual. There is something about the brightly coloured blue tiles set against the rich oak panels and the simple, yet elegant, stained glass that make you feel like you’ve been invited into someone’s prized dining room. The food here is also impeccable. If you have yet to sample any classic Czech meal, this is the perfect place to do so.

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American Bar

Also, in the basement is the “American Bar.” Here you can get a well-made cocktail or spirit and enjoy the swish atmosphere of a 1940’s salon. The vaulted room features a vestibule decorated with the picture “Heron” by Mikolas Ales. Several copies of the artist’s famous drawings are also located inside the recesses of the bar. The American Bar was one of the first public establishments which ladies could visit without a male accompaniment and that atmosphere of bohemian freedom is still present today.

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Kavárna Obecní dům Café

To finish off your dining options inside the Municipal House, wander into the Kavárna Obecní dům café, on the ground floor. This cafe is considered to be one of the best in the world. Although they are most famous for their desserts, this is also a great place to grab a bite to eat if you’re looking for a good meal at a reasonable price.

All the furnishings from the chandeliers, mirrors and fabulous electric lighting in here was designed by Osvald Polivka, one of the most aesthetically pleasing art nouveau designers of the time.

It’s open late, so it’s a great option to grab that last coffee before heading out for a night on the town, or a nightcap before going to bed (which is more my speed). During the summertime, the patio out front is a charming place to people watch. You can sip your coffee early in the morning watching the locals heading off to work.

Although main courses are delicious, their sweet treats are where they really shine. Homemade cakes make the rounds in glass trolleys so you can see the goods before you buy them. Their cream cake with fresh berries is a incredible creation that will satisfy any palette.

While waiting on your food take some time to wander around the restaurant. Check out the fountain at the back of the cafe with a sculpture of a beautiful Nymph in the center by artist Josef Pekarek.

Tours of the Municipal House

To explore the private rooms throughout the rest of the building, you’ll need to book a guided tour. The tour will take you throughout the Smetana Hall, Confectionery, Moravian Slovak Parlour, Božena Němcová Parlour, Oriental Parlour, Grégr Hall, Palacký Hall, Mayor’s Hall, Riegr Hall, and Sladkovsky Hall. The tours run about twice a day in English and cost 290 Kč for adults.

Mayor’s Room

If you’d rather just read about what’s inside, while you enjoy your meal, I’ve written out the details of the other fantastical spaces inside Prague’s Municipal House. Hidden away behind locked doors, up on the third floor, accessible only by guided tour or private rental, is the great Mayor’s Room. Seeing as this was the room where guests initially would be greeted upon entry, the architects wanted it to feel so awe-inspiring right from the get-go. The architects hired the best art nouveau artists to decorate their interiors, and none were more infamous than Alphonse Mucha himself. Mucha had been charged with painting the interior of this superior room. Mucha not only painted all the murals you see here but also created everything from the decorations to the furniture, curtains and even down to the very last lamp.

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Vaults & Lunettes

Each of the vaults holding up the great dome is painted with figures from Czech history framed alongside symbolic images of the civic virtues. The most notable of them is Jan Hus, dressed in his scholarly dark robes, with the beautiful woman of Justice, standing behind him. You can also spot general Jan Žižka painted alongside Fortitude and the Chodové (a Medieval guard) with the image of beady-eyed Vigilance. Jan Amos Komensky is painted with Loyalty, and St. Ludmila and St. Wenceslas are swathed in the arms of Maternal Wisdom.

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On the lunettes that encircle the room are various paintings by Mucha detailing different morality themes upon which the Czech culture was built. A darkened image displays the “Holy Mother of a Nation, Accept love and fervour of your son.” A fiery portrait of three people depicts “With Power comes Freedom – with love, Unanimity.” On the right, a haunting painting shows tortured souls lost in the darkness, an image representing the theme “Humiliated and tortured – resurrected, you will be in our homeland.”

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On the walls in between each of these murals are silver capitals with women’s faces carved upon them. These faces represent loyalty, fortitude, maternal wisdom, justice, independence, non-submissiveness, vigilance and strength. The embroidery on the curtains here was designed by Mucha himself and features a motif of peacocks abstracted plumed feathers. 

On the walls of the mayor’s hall are a series of armchairs. Inlaid into the backrests are paintings entitled, “The Czech Crown” and the “Weeping over the Destruction of the Homeland” by Alphonse Mucha.

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Palacký Hall

To the west of the Mayor’s Room is Palacký Hall. This room is covered in figurative paintings by Jan Preisler. The interior fur shined with art nouveau chandeliers, brass mirrors all in Assyrian style. The Assyrian artistic style is from the ancient world, first appearing in 1500 BCE but breathed new life by the art nouveau period. The style features relief sculptures made in stone.

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A bust of Palacký by Josef Václav Myslbek stands in the rooms honouring the Czech historian and politician. Palacký was one of the most influential people in developing the Czech National Revival and called “Father of the Nation.” On the ceiling is a great fresco featuring the scene of a young boy and girl surrounded by a flock of flying birds.

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Grégr Hall

Further to the west, we find Grégr Hall. This long room features a large balcony on its left-wing, providing the most stunning views across the city. The room is tiled in artificial marble, giving it a regal, luxurious appearance. On the western wall, we can find a triptych entitled “Songs of love, war and death” by František Ženíšek. There is another triptych called “Life, poetry, death” by the same painter on the ceiling. It’s interesting to see so many death paintings in such a vibrant space, but perhaps this image of impending death allows us to remind us to live life to the fullest.

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Oriental Lounge

At the end of Grégr Hall, there is a small staircase leading to the Oriental Lounge. This room features decoration inspired by Islamic-Anatolian art. It was originally known as the Serbian lounge. Anatolia had a strong Byzantine and Armenian Christian heritage, which is visible in its artforms.

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Riegr’s Hall

The room, opposite Palacký Hall, called Riegr’s Hall, is embellished with images of notable Czech personalities painted by Max Švabinský. He titled the paintings “Czech Spring” as it features all these different influential men together in imagined scenes of an idyllic springtime. Busts of politicians František Ladislav Rieger by Josef Václav Myslbek are also featured inside this room. The lower half of the room is painted a rich Azul blue and covered in lush blue stuffed benches.

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Confectionary

At one point in the building’s history, the Municipal House had its own confectionery and patisserie! It was the largest of the relaxing salons, often called the “ladies’ parlours.” Although no sweet treats are being made fresh inside this room today, it is still one of the most fabulously decorated rooms in the building. Filled to the brim with gilt stucco decorations and oak framed mirrors, the place absolutely sparkles.

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The Smetana Concert Hall and Ballroom

The Smetana Concert Hall and Ballroom are located right under the magnificent glass dome. To visit this place outside of being on tour, you’ll need to have booked a ticket to see a performance. The concert hall plays hosts to many musicians and is the home to the Czech National Symphony Orchestra.

Inside this room, you’ll find artwork pieces by Alfonse Mucha, Jan Preisler and Max Švabinský decorating the ceilings and walls. The interior of the concert hall is covered in white stone and gold filigree. The entire theatre is illuminated by hundreds of tiny lights, casting a gentle golden glow upon the people below. The stage is framed by arcing sculptures depicting Vyšehrad legends and Slavic dances. It is truly an honorific place of Czech arts and culture.

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iMucha’s Exhibition

Currently on display inside the Municipal House is the iMucha Exhibition. This gallery uses technologies of the 21st century to display numerous of Mucha’s art posters which have been digitally remastered to be displayed with motion. Transforming the static material into a lifelike work of art. The exhibition also presents over 200 artifacts from the artist’s life. Tickets to the exhibition costs 290 Kč for adults but there is a discounted price if you book with a guided tour. Running until March 2024.

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If you have the chance to tour Prague’s Municipal House, run, don’t walk, to visit! Don’t let the rather dull name of the building fool you; this place is one of the most outstanding artistic achievements of the Czech National Revival and deserves all your attention. Plus, there is nothing better than dining inside an incredible environment to fill your eyes and mind with wonder and excitement.

Let me know what treasures you discovered in Prague or if you’re planning on visiting the Municipal House for yourself on your next trip!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Best Visitors Guide to the Art Nouveau Interiors of Prague’s Municipal House first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

If you’ve just arrived and wanted something a little more laid back and relaxing, try out this self-guided walking tour of La Condesa. You can easily spend the entire day following this path and making your own stops along the way.

Guided Tour of La Condesa

1. Accessibility
2. La Condesa History
3. Is La Condesa Safe?
4. Map of Walking Tour
5. Chiquitito Café
6. La Esquina del Chilaquiles
7. Michoacan Market
8. García Madero
9. Avenida Mazatlan 
10. Nevería Roxy
11. Los Condesa
12. Lardo
13. Avenida Veracruz
14. Hotel Condesa DF
15. Archivos Plutarco Elías Calles
16. Parque España
17. Avenida Ámsterdam
18. Plaza Citlaltepec
19. Parque México
20. Fuente de Los Cántaros 
21. Lindbergh Open Air Theater
22. Churrería El Moro
23. Art Deco Architecture
24. Edificio Rosa
25. The Edificio San Martín
26. The Basurto Building
27. Edificio Tehuacan
28. Plaza Popocatépetl

Accessibility

This walking tour isn’t very strenuous, there are no uphills to power through and the distance is pretty minimal in total. For anyone who gets tired and there are plenty of places to stop and rest along the way since even the fittest of us can suffer the effects of Mexico City’s elevation. If you’re in a wheelchair or have a mobility aid, the sidewalks of La Condesa are mostly very wide and easy to navigate. Certain areas of the sidewalk were severely damaged by the earthquake but I’ve done my best to make a map of the best sidewalks to go through which have been repaired or restored.

La Condesa History

La Condesa is a small neighbourhood about 5 km outside the city centre. The word “Condesa” means “countess” as this neighbourhood was named after María Magdalena Dávalos de Bracamontes y Orozco, the Countess of Miravalle. The Countess bought a huge expanse of land when she moved to Mexico City. This was her little empire. The area was purchased from a wealthy family, whose last descendants had died. With no children to inherit the land, the Countess was able to buy it all up at a good price. The Countess owned a large manor house to the westernmost point in the city. Today, this old house has been converted into the Russian Embassy. Since the Embassy is highly protected, you can’t really see much of it from the street, so it’s not worth the trek to the west side of town to try to see it.

The Countess rented the land and constructed apartment complexes throughout the new colony. These were specifically geared towards the upper class of Mexico City. The neighbourhood was wealthy enough to afford the best landscape architects and city planners. They made it their goal to create wide, open streets, tree-lined avenues and large, sumptuous parks. Condesa is often called the “lungs” of the city. There are more trees located in this borough than collectively across the rest of the city.

20th Century La Condesa

In the early 20th century, Condesa continued to grow and became a popular place for artists to live. Agustín Lara, a composer of romantic ballads, flamenco dancer Pilar Rioja and painter Juan Soriano all, lived in Condesa. In addition to these artists, many cinema stars of the 40s and 50s also moved into the neighbourhood. Walking along the streets of La Condesa in the 50s was like spotting the whos who of Mexican Hollywood elite.

Mexico City Earthquake

The 1985 Mexico City earthquake had a devastating impact on La Condesa. You can still see some of the damage to this day, particularly along the sidewalks on many unused side streets. Many of the people who lived here couldn’t afford to repair their houses, so some were left abandoned. Other families couldn’t afford to move, so they had to remain living in this destruction zone. The rich and elite of the neighbourhood all moved out to Polanco, which is now the Beverly Hills of Mexico City.

The once affluent neighbourhood was reduced to rubble, and for years it remained one of the cheapest places to live. But cheap rent eventually attracted a younger generation of people to live in the area. They came with ambitions to rise up and revitalize the area. Because no one could afford to tear down old buildings, Condesa’s historic houses are left untouched. Therefore precious art deco and midcentury designs are happily still on display today.

Trendy and bohemian restaurants started to pop up in La Condesa due to the inexpensive real estate. And they were much needed to feed this emerging population. With new bars and restaurants, came more people. Condesa’s restaurants were the first in the city to offer outdoor seating along the sidewalks. Since La Condesa’s sidewalks were designed to be wide and comfortable, there was plenty of room to set up tables along the street. This created an outdoor dining room feeling, of everyone eating together in the neighbourhood. Still today, La Condesa is the hottest spot in the city to find trendy restaurants and chic cafes.

Street Art in Condesa

Urban artists found the empty corners of Condesa to be a blank canvas for their art, and even today, despite the rise of urbanization and gentrification, some of the city’s best street artist’s work can be found along these streets. Unlike simple graffiti tags, these masterpieces are truly spectacular works of art. In addition to being beautiful decorations for the neighbourhood, they also draw in street art tours and curious tourists.

Is La Condesa Safe?

When we booked our first trip to Mexico City, safety was my primary focus when booking a hotel. I heard that of all the neighbourhoods in Mexico City, La Condesa had one of the lowest crime rates while still being near all the big sights. I felt completely comfortable walking alone at night in this area without a second thought, and I’m not one of the bravest people. Things can happen anywhere in the world, that’s for sure, so it’s always good to keep a level head and be aware of your surroundings. But overall, I feel like the hype over Mexico City being dangerous is overblown in the media.

Map of Walking Tour

Chiquitito Café

Start your day with a coffee from Chiquitito Café. The cafe can be found at #232 Alfonso Reyes. Just west of Alfonso Reyes and Aguascalientes street. The cafe opens early in the morning, around 7:30 am. A lot of places in Mexico City don’t open till later, and if you’re like me you want to get out bright and early. This cafe is tiny, but you’ll know where it is immediately by the line out the door.

Their coffee is unbelievably smooth. I’m a bit of a coffee baby and always order a latte or cappuccino and sneak some sugar into it. But at Chiquitito Cage, no sugar was needed, the coffee was just that good. The tables out on the street are perfect for people watching. Street sweepers are cleaning the fallen leaves, tamales sellers are out on their bikes, and school children are off hand in hand with their parents. A wonderfully normal slice of life in Mexican City.

La Esquina del Chilaquiles

After a shot of coffee to wake you up, head over to the corner of Alfonso Reyes and Tamaulipas street. Here you’ll find one of the most delicious street food breakfast options in the entire city. Even before this stands opens, there is a line down the street of locals waiting for this incredible treat; torta de chilaquiles. You NEED to get here early to make sure you don’t miss out on this iconic Condesa treat. Torta de Chilaquiles is a unique Mexican breakfast sandwich. “Chilaquiles” is a Nahuatl word, which means “bathed in chilli.”

This shop has been serving the neighbourhood since 1950 and has been run by generations of the same family. Their torta is made with a large, fresh french roll, as big your forearm. The roll is split open and filled with refried black beans, two types of meat, salsa, and fried corn chips. Finally, it’s finished off with a crumbling of cojita cheese and fresh cream. The entire monstrous sandwich costs only 35 pesos ($1.80 USD)! And you’ll be full for hours! If you don’t have a big appetite you can split it between two or three people.

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Michoacan Market

If you’re interested in visiting a local marketplace, then head up the street to the Michoacán Market. Head northeast on Avenue Tamaulipas for three blocks. Just past Avenue Vicente Suárez you’ll find the market on the corner of Tamaulipas and Avenue Michoacán. The Michoacán Market was built in 1946 and has an amazing Functionalist architectural design. The market is located at the intersection of three of the most important streets in Condesa. This made the marketplace the de facto heart of Condesa. Inside there are twenty-seven different vendors selling everything from fruits and veggies to slow-cooked meals and freshly baked tortillas.

García Madero

Head west for about two blocks on Avenue Michoacán toward Avenue Vicente Suárez. The smell of freshly baked bread will simply draw you into this shop. García Madero Bakery sells small batches of baked sweets and bread right out of this little shop. Once their goods are sold out, the shop closes down, so don’t rely on the official business hours for your chance to taste these amazing baked goods. The owner of the shop was once a lawyer and quit his job to follow his passion for baking. And from his huge popularity, it looks like it has more than paid off. Try their concha, a classic Mexican sweet bread that is recognizable by its seashell textured top. But if you visit in the Spring, try the chocolate-dipped croissants with edible pansy flowers. Spectacular to eat as well as to look at!

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Avenida Mazatlan 

With your delicious sweet bread in hand, wander west across Avenida Vicente Suárez for four blocks until you reach Avenida Mazatlan. The Avenida Mazatlán is a wide stretch of roads with a gorgeous central pedestrian walkway. This walkway is flanked by enormous trees and plants of all kinds. Walking beneath this canopy makes you feel like you’re in a tropical dream. Even on the hottest day, the shade beneath these trees is so refreshing.

The Avenida Mazatlan is full of amazing architectural sights. This street was one of the first where the new Condesa colony expanded, and the buildings along the street represent the styles of architecture as the neighbourhood began to grow. You’ll see designs like neocolonial, functionalist, eclectic and rationalist styles, but especially art deco. There are over 250 buildings along this one street, which are designated as artistic value to the neighbourhood. 

Nevería Roxy

Nevería Roxy can be found just a block north at the intersection of Fernando Montes de Oca and Avenida Mazatlan. This is a neighbourhood establishment that has been serving up ice cream to the community since 1946. In the 50s it was one of the most happening places where famous bullfighters, businessmen, cattlemen and fans would come after the bullfights from the nearby Plaza de Toros Condesa. The ice cream parlour still has the retro charm of the original shop, and although machines and technology have changed, the recipes have not. You can get traditional flavours as well as some exotic Mexican fruit flavoured ones as well. Perfect for a hot day!

Los Condesa

Head northwest on Avenida Mazatlan toward Juan de la Barrera for about three blocks. Just past Juan de la Barrera you’ll see an old white and green painted apartment complex. This series of apartments is called “Los Condesa,” and were the first luxury apartments to be built on the block in 1911. These beautiful apartments drew other wealthy people into the area. They were ostensibly the buildings that founded the neighbourhood. Today the waiting list to live in these apartments, despite their old age, is incredibly long. They are considered historical, and the prestige of living there is quite high.

Lardo

Walk just one block north, on the corner of Avenida Mazatlan and Veracruz street, and you’ll find one of the cutest restaurants in the city. Lardo is a trendy brunch and lunch spot that has some of the very best huevos rancheros in the city! It’s a fantastic blend of traditional ingredients and modern menu items. The hipster vibe inside blends the historical aspects of old Mexico City with the vibrant new ideas and sensibilities which the younger generations are bringing to restaurants and cafes in these old neighbourhoods.

Avenida Veracruz

Continuing on our walking tour, we set out to stroll down Veracruz street. We will be walking east on Avenue Veracruz toward Agustín Melgar for three blocks. A great way to work off that filling lunch! This street is dotted with fantastical old mansions decorated in vibrant colours. These old houses are covered in rich ornamentations and fine ironwork. The area was severely damaged during the 1985 earthquake, and despite the wealth of many of these houses, there is still the occasional abandoned house which displays the damage of that immense quake.

Hotel Condesa DF

At the end of Veracruz Street, just before the park, make a stop at the Hotel Condesa DF. You’ll recognize it right away from their antique, burgundy car, which sits out front. This building is a gorgeous, albeit pretty pricey, hotel, but it was originally built as a great manor house. The architect designed the house in the French neoclassical style in 1928. The columns along the corners of the building are my favourite little detail, as they are covered in ornate carvings. If you’d like to stop in for a drink, the rooftop terrace has a lovely bar with views of the nearby park.

Archivos Plutarco Elías Calles

Walk around the back of Hotel DF, along Guadalajara street to house #104. This is the Archivos Plutarco Elías Calles. This building is another incredible example of Mexican neo-gothic architecture. The mansion was originally designed for the personal secretary to President Álvaro Obregón. The neo-gothic style of architecture was popularized by the great Metropolitan Cathedral in the Zocalo. This style featured pointed arches, stone rosettes, and large stained glass windows. All of which can be seen here. Today this house has been turned into a temporary restaurant but hopefully that becomes a permanent feature so everyone can enjoy the stunning garden inside.

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Parque España

Walk across the street, you’ll find the little brother park to the opulent Parque Mexico, Parque España. Parque España was built in 1921 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the end of the Mexican War of Independence. In the centre of the park, is a great blue abstract sculpture, commemorating Lázaro Cárdenas. Cárdenas was the President of Mexico between 1934 and 1940 and has been revered as “the greatest constructive radical of the Mexican Revolution.” He stands like a beacon in the park, still overseeing his people.

Avenida Ámsterdam

Walk east across the park. You’ll pop out on the other side, on Avenue Nuevo León which runs north/south. Make your way to the street running east/west called Avenue Parras. Head east along this street for just one blocks and you’ll arrive onto Avenida Ámsterdam. The Avenida Ámsterdam is a huge oval road which encircles the grande Parque México. The central walkways lined in great trees are some of the lushest pedestrian avenues anywhere in the city. Because this avenue is mainly residential and seems hidden away from the busy main roads, it’s also one of the most peaceful places in a city. Despite being one of the most populated cities in the world, this area of town feels like you’re in the middle of nowhere.

The Race Track

We’re going to walk south along the ring road for four blocks. The circular aspect of the road was not simply a stylish design. It was for a practical purpose as the road was initially designed for racing. President Diaz inaugurated the race track in 1910. The track hosted both automobile and horse racing, both of which were at the height of their popularity in the early 20th century. Racing was for the elite of Mexican high society as the money they poured into this area can still be seen today.

During the 1920s, in the height of the art deco trend, many manor homes and mansions were built around the racetrack. Even the sidestreets themselves were given the artistic treatment with lamposts and street furniture being designed right into the roadway. This way the entire street looked bespoke. These lamposts and outdoor furniture are still around today for you to sit and chat on while waiting for the light to change. Their fabulous blue tiles are still as vibrant as the day they were installed.

Plaza Citlaltepec

At the southernmost point of the Avenida Ámsterdam is the Plaza Citlaltepec. This small parkette, with a central fountain, might not be very historically famous but it’s my favourite little area of the city. On all sides of the roundabout, there are adorable cafes and restaurants. A kind fruit vendor is always parked on the Avenida Ámsterdam on the west side of the fountain, and I love stopping in there to get a freshly cut mango with spicy chilli and lime! On the north side of the roundabout is a brightly painted, purple hotel which is awesome to marvel at even from the outside. It’s just such a charming slice of Mexico City, and I love coming here.

Parque México

From the park, head north up Citlaltépetl street, for one block, to the southeast corner of the great Parque México. I adore this park. Coming here in the afternoon means the park is absolutely bursting with excitement. Hundreds of dogs are out for their afternoon walk, kids are playing in the large square and lots of locals and tourists are relaxing under the enormity of shade the park provides. Especially during the Jacaranda season, this park is one of the most beautiful places in the city.

They call this park the lungs of the city since there are so many trees here trying to filter out all the city’s pollution. Hereunder these trees are where people in some areas of the city without green space come to “convalesce.”

Instead of being designed based on a rigid, street like a plan, this park was inspired by the great gardens of European palaces. Ponds and walkways weave and sway throughout the nine hectares of parkland. Organic forms are used throughout, and even the benches are designed to look like they are merely a few branches placed together to form a sitting area.

Flora and Fauna

Throughout the park, you’ll see Lebanese cypress, mimosas, and palms. There is also a variety of exotic flora such as bamboo and brightly coloured flowers. Some of these plants were native to the land when the park was constructed, and new varieties were added to make it look as natural as possible. They never wanted anything to feel too purposeful, just natural.

Fuente de Los Cántaros 

Wander north through the first section of the park until you come to Avenue Michoacán, which bisects the park. On the other side of this street, greeting you with a sly smile is the Fuente de Los Cántaros. Fuente de Los Cántaros means fountain of the jugs, and although the indigenous women in the centre is holding two water jugs, you might get an idea why the fountain was nicknamed this for a different reason. The woman who modelled for the statue was Luz Jiménez, who also modelled for Diego Rivera, which is why her face might look so familiar.

Lindbergh Open Air Theater

Behind the fountain, is the enormous Lindbergh Open Air Theater. There has never been a single time I’ve visited here when there weren’t kids out playing soccer in this huge arena. It is never devoid of life. The arena was named after Lindbergh, the first man to make a transatlantic flight. The architect hoped to inspire Mexico City’s youth to reach for the sky just as Lindbergh did! In the centre of the theatre are five geometric pillars designed in the art deco style. On either side of the stage area are two, albeit ageing, frescoes. The surrounding pergola provides shade and the vibrant bougainvillea flowers, which creep over the rooftop, create the most fantastical canopy.

Churrería El Moro

Wander around the park, eating from the various street food stalls and enjoying a short rest under the gorgeous shady trees. If you’d rather avoid street food (although I highly recommend trying it) you can head to Churrería El Moro located just east of the Parque Mexico on Avenue Mexico and Avenue Michoacán. Here you’ll be able to sample a slice of true Mexican history!

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The churro was a dessert brought over by the Spanish, but dipping it inside a cup of hot, thick chocolate sauce, was the way in which the Mexicans made the dish their own! Churrería El Moro is now a chain of churro shops, but the original opened in 1935. Today, the grandchildren of the original owner have opened branches all over Mexico City. The Churrería El Moro in Condesa has comfy rocking chairs and benches to relax on outside, but if the restaurant is full, take your snacks over to the park to enjoy under the warm moonlight in the Lindbergh Open Air Theater. The best place to end the night!

Art Deco Architecture

Once restored, get ready to make your way north along Avenue Mexico. Avenue Mexico was one of the most prestigious real estate spots in the entire city, as the houses along this road overlooked the park. The majority of these buildings were built throughout the 1920s to 40s and maintained a highly stylized art deco theme throughout. Even some of the buildings which are being restored to be transformed into hotels are working hard to maintain their exterior design as the retro look is what draws so many people to this area.

Edificio Rosa

Walking north along Avenue Mexico for half a block to the Edificio-Rosa at #147. The Edificio-Rosa building is worth a stop to see the blush-painted exterior juxtaposed with black wrought iron window bars. The colour combo is truly fabulous. But what I love even more is the incredible typography of the building’s name, spelled out on the exterior.

The Edificio San Martín

Continue north, crossing Teotihuacan Street find #167 Avenue Mexico. This amazing structure is the San Martín Building, designed by Ernesto Buenrostro. The most interesting aspect of this 1930s design is the name of the building, which is cut out into the facade of the exterior! The lobby of the building still has so many of those art deco tiles and details, so if you can get a peek inside without disturbing the doorman, you should try to get a lookie!

The Basurto Building

Continue walking north, crossing Avenue Sonora, where you’ll find the Basurto Building at #187 Avenue Mexico. The Basurto Building is another iconic Bauhaus-style building that is notable mostly for its straights lines, which bend and weave into curving waves. It was designed by architect Francisco J. Serrano in 1945. The building was severely damaged in the 1985 earthquake, but restoration efforts were put underway in recent years to restore this architectural gem!

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Edificio Tehuacan

Just across the street at #188 is the Tehuacán Building. This is probably my favourite of all the art deco structures in this area. It was built in 1931 and was designed bu the same man who made the San Martín Building, Ernesto Buenrostro. What makes Buenrostro so interesting was that he was a Mexican architect who used elements from the art deco styles which were so pervasive around the world but embued in those designs, traditional Mexican elements. On the front of the exterior, blended in with the geometric elements of the architecture are terra-cotta coloured carvings from ancient Aztec culture.

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Plaza Popocatépetl

Walking one more block north along Avenue Mexico, you come to a roundabout, marked with a large fountain. This is the Plaza Popocatépetl. The fountain is named after Popocatépetl, a large volcano in central Mexico. The art deco Popocatépetl fountain was designed in 1927. This fountain is one of my favourites, I love the traditional, Mexican tile works which add texture and interest to the white dome in the centre of the fountain. This is the final point on the tour and a great place to take a rest and reflect on all we saw along the way!

La Condesa is my favourite neighbourhood in the city, and I’d honestly be happy never leaving these streets the entire time, that’s just how amazing this place is. Although following this tour is a great introduction, the best part of La Condesa is exploring hidden streets and finding new amazing restaurants and boutiques for yourself along the way! Please share here your favourite part of La Condesa or let me know where you like to stay when in Mexico City!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Ultimate Self Guided Tour of La Condesa, Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Angel's Flight
2. Grand Central Market
   • Eggslut
3. Bradbury Building
4. Alexandria Hotel
5. Broadway-Spring Arcade Building
6. Ninth and Broadway Building
7. The Jewelry District
8. PacMutual
9. Los Angeles Library
10. Fine Arts Building
11. Theatre District
12. The Los Angeles Theatre
13. The Palace Theatre
14. Tower Theatre
15. Eastern Columbia Lofts
16. Ace Hotel

Angel’s Flight

Start your walking tour at the ‘Angel’s Flight’ steps on Bunker Hill. This funicular railway brings travellers up the hill to one of the most iconic landmarks in L.A., Most notable for the many scenes filmed for the movie 500 Days of Summer.

The funicular was nicknamed “the shortest railway in the world” when it was built in 1901, and ever since, it has brought passengers a mere few meters up the steep hill from Pershing Square Metro Station to the top of Bunker Hill. From there, you have the perfect vantage point to see the tops of all the famous buildings that decorate the Los Angeles skyline.

Grand Central Market

After a short walk down from the top of Bunker Hill, stop at the Grand Central Market. The original building was a Beaux Arts beauty, but over the years, modern renovations have since changed its appearance. When you visit the market, make a point to study the 1960s tile façade and the original large, rounded archways at the entrance.

Eggslut

This little market, full of smells, sights and sounds, has been open since 1917. The market was once a meeting place for the city’s rich and the poor, and you could find everything from clothes to cabbage to goods for the home. Today, it is filled with delicious food for the everyman. As you step down the stairs in the thick of things, your senses are engulfed in the smell of slow-roasting pork, crispy tortillas and hot spices. Stop in at G&B Coffee for a dark brew, or try one of their fizzy hoppy teas for something different. Chow down on gorditas and drool-worthy tacos at Ana Maria’s. And if you’re looking for a trendy Sunday morning brunch spot, try Eggslut for their signature Eggslut sandwich, a jar-poached “coddled” egg atop potato purée.

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Bradbury Building

The Bradbury Building is one of the most important architectural landmarks of the city. And while its exterior is gorgeous, it’s the interior you’ll want to ensure you see! Built in 1893, this office building is best known for the incredible skylit atrium, surrounded by gilded, ornate ironwork walkways, stairs and elevators. The building was made for gold-mining millionaire Lewis L. Bradbury and, as such, feels like it has been kissed by King Midas himself.

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Alexandria Hotel

Wind your way toward the famous Alexandria Hotel. In the heyday of cinema-making of the 1900s, this monolith of Beaux-Arts architecture and glamour was built. It cost $2 million to bring the lavish designs and finishing that the New York elite was used to across the country to sunny L.A. The building’s signature griffins still stand today, looming over the street, watching passersby going about their business.

Over the years, it saw visitors from all walks of fame. From President Theodore Roosevelt to Charlie Chaplin and even Mary Pickford. But as the celebs moved out of the downtown core, the hotel lost its lustre and soon was nothing more than squatting quarters for vagrants. Now, it has a new owner, and with fresh businesses coming back downtown, it might even see a new renaissance. Its illustrious Palm Court, built in the 1960s, is still one of the most awe-inspiring interiors in L.A. The ceiling is an enormous mass of intricately designed stained glass and walking in the room, you completely feel embraced by the beautiful coloured scene painted with glass above you.

Broadway-Spring Arcade Building

As you walk down South Spring Street, you come upon a giant slate-coloured building with tiny, uniform windows that cover its facade. Looking like a massive brick honeycomb. This is, of course, the Broadway-Spring Arcade Building. The building is connected by a stunning skylit and a three-storey arcade.

Walking through the arches, you’re met with a splendid gallery of little, independent shops gathered below retro lights that line the gallery like little soldiers. Later on, after its initial construction, two Venetian-style bridges were added to connect the lower levels of the two buildings, creating a very European feel to space.

Ninth and Broadway Building

Just down the street, you find the Ninth and Broadway Building. Built in the 1930s, this sturdy building is a dramatic design and architecture. The most iconic detail is the two-storey tall terra cotta grapevine filigree that crawls up the front of the building. The art deco lettering that addresses the building is a charming nod to a time gone by.

But the ornamentation doesn’t stop at the front of the building. As you look up at the myriad of floors above, you’ll notice the filigree grapevine designs continuing between all the perfectly placed windows, each stamped with an abstract art deco geometric design.

The Jewelry District

The Jewelry District is a section of downtown Los Angeles where gold, diamonds and anything sparkly can be seen on display in highly curated window boxes. As you walk down the street, it seems like every other shop is a jewelry store with identical window displays and signage. Annually this district brings in just under $3 billion in jewelry alone!

The most famous of these Jewellery retail outlets is the International Jewelry Centre. This building reminds me of the train station in Melbourne, with its enormous domed roof and French Renaissance-inspired ornamentation that climbs along the columns and frames the windows.

PacMutual

Head over to the financial district and visit the PacMutual building. A set of three different buildings have been connected over the years and now make up the place we call the PacMutual building. Each structure represents a different period of architecture, yet they all seem to flow together cohesively. The first building erected in 1906 was on the corner of Sixth and Olive Street. It was designed in the Beaux Arts style with decorative arches and flowery details.

In 1921, a taller building was constructed the same way as the previous one. With more money in their pockets this time, they added Italian marble throughout the lobby and more terra cotta embellishments. The final building in this triad is a seemingly simple two-story parking garage. Where the addition of a parking lot might have been an eye sore, this architect took it upon himself to disguise it in Beaux Arts flourishes and a glamorous tiled roof.

Los Angeles Library

The last stop on tour was at the impressive Los Angeles Library. A stop-off at the library might seem like an anti-climactic visit, but it is not the case here in L.A. The library was officially named a Historic-Cultural Monument, and its importance as a place for the community is firmly evident as you walk around and watch people interact with the public space. People wander the gardens and sit quietly reading or talking on the phone on all the different benches and seating areas in the courtyard. It seems almost like a modern-day town square.

The library’s design is not of the Art Deco period or the Beaux Arts. This time, the architect went far back to get his inspiration. All the way to ancient Egypt. Egyptians were some of the finest architects. But they were a culture that respected and sought to preserve their language and historical stories.

Although not in a typical “library”, they preserved their stores right in the walls of their home in hieroglyphs. So it is no surprise that this is where the architect drew his inspiration for the library. The central part of the library looks like a squared-off pyramid with brightly coloured tiled mosaics on the roof. The suns on either side of the roof reference the “light of learning.” Along the facade are carved notable men of history. We have represented men from the arts, Science, Philosophy and more here.

Fine Arts Building

The Fine Arts Building on West 7th Street was built in 1926 and is a love story of architecture. The Romanesque Revival face featured a two-storey arch over the main entrance, intricately decorated with griffons, gargoyles and birds. The entire building is replete with ornamentation and carved figures, to the point where it feels almost more like a church than an office building. On either side of the entry arch are two reclining figures, representing Architecture and Sculpture as human beings. Be sure to step inside and admire the two-storey terracotta and tile-tiered ceiling.

Theatre District

As you finish with the business district, you turn a corner, and suddenly every other building you come across is an opulent theatre. This, of course, is the Theatre District. These gaudy and gorgeous edifices are aged to pure perfection. Their slightly tarnished and dirty facade only adds to the magical historical quality they preserve within their bones.

The Los Angeles Theatre

The Los Angeles Theatre is no doubt the most extravagant of them all. Designed by legendary theatre architect S. Charles Lee in 1931, this building stretches into the skies with European-inspired designs that make you feel like you have been transported into Paris, France. The baroque columns and sculptures that pour off the building reek of French finery. Even a sunburst motif is used throughout, inspired by Louis XIV’s castle of Versailles.

The Palace Theatre

The Palace Theatre is one of the oldest on the strip. It opened in 1911 and is one of the remaining original Orpheum theatres in the U.S. This building seems as though any minute, swarms of youthful flappers in sequined gowns might emerge from its doors. Perfectly preserved in time, you can even read the old painted advertisements still etched onto the side of the building. One can imagine that these ads would entice customers to attend the shows featuring such acts as Harry Houdini, Fred Astaire, and a young Rita Hayworth.

The mixture of Florentine architecture and retro 70’s typography, and colourful flare are wonderfully combined on the front of this theatre. Multicoloured terracotta flowers are stamped on the sides of the window frames, while gothic fairy sculptures hang off the building like whimsical gargoyles. Even the old lamps still glow and are reflected on the wet streets.

Tower Theatre

Built in 1927, the Tower Theatre is a testament to the evocative Baroque Revival style. The theatre’s exterior was even modelled after the famed Paris Opera House. Tiny star-shaped geometric designs are carved into the building’s walls, making the whole thing seem like it is floating in space. One of the Tower Theatre’s most iconic features is its giant Art Nouveau clock tower that reaches into the sky, flanked by gilded columns and framing the neon sign that flashes its name to curious passersby.

Eastern Columbia Lofts

Probably the piece-de-resistance of the entirety of downtown L.A. is the Eastern Columbia Lofts. From all the way down the street, you can see the bright, turquoise copper gleaming in the distance. On top, a giant clock and the word ‘EASTERN’ all in neon beacons you towards it. The Eastern Columbia Lofts is one of the best examples of true Art Deco architecture in the United States. Featuring all the keystones of Art Deco design, this building seems cohesive while incorporating various elements from that period. From sunburst patterns to zigzags and chevrons to simple geometric shapes and turquoise copper panels flanked in gold, every piece feels like it complements the other.

Although the building has been standing for years, its appeal is timeless. The developer, Kor Realty Group, optioned this property for condo development in 2006 and has since turned empty retail and business spaces into chic, modern condos while retaining their original appearance. One of the more curious features is the four modernized flying buttresses that flank the clock tower on the top of the building. This style, once only found in gothic architecture, was appropriated to great effect.

Ace Hotel

If you’re looking for true gothic architecture, go beyond the Ace Hotel. Originally known as the United Artists building, at 13 stories tall, it was the tallest building in Los Angeles after its completion in 1927. The building houses residential apartments and a theatre on the first floor. The terra cotta and plaster-fronted structure were dripping with Gothic influences from Spain and were inspired by the Segovia Cathedral. Its delicate tracery windows pointed arches, and highly detailed carved capitals make this building look more like a church than a commercial space. The stone spandrels that line the facade give the building the appearance of being taller than it really is, lifting its grandeur right up into the sky.

Taking a free walking tour of the Art Deco streets of downtown Los Angeles is a must-do experience for anyone who loves architecture and history. From the stunning facades to the intricate details, these buildings are a testament to the city’s rich cultural heritage.

The post Free Downtown Los Angeles Walking Tour of the Amazing Art Deco Streets first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.