Day One – The Highlights

St. Mark’s Square

The best place to start your tour is standing in the centre of the Piazza San Marco or St. Mark’s Square. Arrive here as early as you can bear. There is something truly magical about being here as the sun rises on the square. You’ll see the beautiful rose-gold sunlight begin to kiss the cobblestone and bricks around you. The sun seems to bring the square to life as cafe owners begin taking out their chairs and pigeons flock around gawking tourists (but don’t feed them, this is now illegal in Venice!)

Standing in the centre of the square, in front of the Basilica, you can turn around 360 degrees and see one spectacular scene on top of another. In this one small area, you’ll find the St Mark’s Basilica, the great Campanile (Belltower), the Procuratie, the Piazzetta, Doge’s Palace, Bridge of Sighs and Torre dell’ Orologio. There is rarely a time when you’ll visit the square when they aren’t some form of construction or renovation going on. With all these historic sights in one place, there is bound to be something falling apart and needing repair. Try to look past that and don’t like it ruin your experience.

Saint Mark

The square is named after the patron saint of Venice, Saint Mark. In 828, a relic of St. Mark was stolen from Alexandria and brought back to Venice by La Serenissima‘s great naval fleet. The Venetian Doge, awed by the acquisition of this precious relic, adopted Saint Mark as the new patron of Venice (whose honour had previously been given to Saint Theodore).

A city with a saintly relic immediately rose in power and prestige. Relics were the first tourist attraction of the medieval world. Pilgrims would come from all over the world to pray at the churches who preserved these relics. Pilgrims, much as tourists today, needed food and shelter and therefore brought lots of money into the city.

Piazza San Marco

A grand church to house the precious artifact began to be built in 836. The church and the nearby Doge’s palace were, even back then, the highlight of the city for visitors. And a great square was needed to further showcase the opulence the Doge wanted to project. In 1172 orchards were demolished surrounding this area and the Piazza San Marco was built. It’s been rumoured that upon visiting St. Mark’s square for the first time, Napoleon himself degreed that it was, “the drawing room of Europe“.

The Procuratie

The simplistic and yet elegant buildings along the north and south sides of the square are called the Procuratie. The Procuratie is most identifiable by its stunning arcade that wraps around this side of the square. The arcade features Byzantine arches, which are distinct for their tall and narrow structure.

The Procuratie buildings are actually three connected structures that once served as the offices of the Venetian Republic, also called La Serenissima. Today they house the Correr Museum, the Museum of the Risorgimento, and the Archeological Museum. Each one of these is an incredible place to visit but the Correr Museum is my favourite with their collection of art detailing the histories of the city of Venice.

The Lion of Venice

Throughout St. Mark’s square you’ll see various Lions of Venice, adorning doorways, columns and facades. The Lion of Venice is usually seen with his paw upon a bible as he is not just any lion, but St. Mark’s Lion. St. Mark was often referred to as a lion since he would preach the word of the lord so powerfully it almost seemed like a roar. Legend tells that St. Mark was travelling through Europe when he arrived in Venice and an angel spoke to him and told him that this place would be where his body would come to rest for eternity. His remains were originally interred in Alexandra but moved to Venice where the church was built to honour them.

Caffe Florian

Now housed inside one of the old Procuratie buildings is perhaps the most sumptuous cafes in Venice, or perhaps Europe itself. Although this cafe is by no means cheap, it’s a splurge that I think is worth it for the incredible interiors and history to be found within. The Caffe Florian was founded in 1720 and has served patrons like Charles Dickens and Lord Byron. There is a 6 euro cover charge to even enter the cafe, but along with getting to enjoy the lavish interiors, you’ll also be treated to a live orchestra which plays throughout the cafe. Palacial red velvet couches and chairs are spread out across the huge cafe, dotted throughout various antechambers. Each room is covered in ornate paintings, large Murano glass mirrors, gold foiled frames and intricate painting plastered to the ceiling.

To save a bit of money here, go right to the bar and order your food or drinks there. Although you won’t get a seat, the bar menu is vastly cheaper than the table service. An espresso at the bar will run you €5 but again, you’re here for the atmosphere. If you’d rather save your coin you can give this a miss for sure. Instead grab a coffee on your way in towards St. Mark’s square from any local cafe, to enjoy while you peruse the sights.

The Campanile

Standing guard in the centre of the square is the 323ft tall Campanile or Belltower. The low-level buildings throughout Venice are in stark contrast to the towering Campanile. Its little head pokes out at you no matter where you seem to end up in Venice. While the original tower was built in 1514, the current one is a reconstruction from 1912 after it’s collapse in 1902. It’s an incredible thing to imagine that such a tall structure could survive for so long-standing atop the shifting waters. But it wasn’t water which proved to be the biggest enemy of the tower, it was lighting. Lightning struck the tower multiple times over the years causing enormous fires and severe internal damage to the structure.

The tall base of the tower is designed with a fluted shaft that reaches up towards the belfry. Along one corner, one each side of the tower, are stacked arched windows looking out over the square. Inside the belfry are five large bells. Each one was used to call the people of Venice to attention. The bells have their own distinctive name and special significance. The Renghiera bell announced executions; the Mezza Terza would declare that a session of the Senate was taking place; the Nona sounded the midday hour; the Trottiera was used to assemble the Maggiore Consiglio and the Marangona, the largest of the bells, rang to mark the beginning and end of the working day.  

The Tower’s Crown

Above the arches of the belfry is another level of brickwork decorated with various sculptures on either side. On one side you’ll see the Lion of St. Mark and on the other the female representation of Venice, in the shape of the lady Justice. The golden weathervane which crowns the tower is the angel Gabriel, reaching out towards the citizens below.

Torre Dell’Orologio

Turn to the north-east corner of the square, and look up at the bright blue and gold details decorating the Torre Dell’Orologio. The morning light, the sunlight simply glints off the golden dial. The clock was built in the 15th century when mechanical clocks were a symbol of wealth and power. The clock faces out towards the water so that any foreign ships would be able to see it from the canals as they past through.

Atop the tower containing the clock, you can see two small bronze figures who carry large hammers in their hand which move upon the hour to strike the bell. One of the figures is a young man and the other an old man to symbolize the passage of time. Once more we see the image of the Lion of Venice above the clock, set against a blue sky of golden stars. Below the lion is the figure of the Virgin Mary with the baby Jesus wrapped in her arms. On either side of her are two blue panels with the time represented in roman numerals on the left and in Arabic numerals on the right, as was traditional at the time when the Byzantine influences were ripe throughout Italy.

The Zodiac Symbols on the Clock

The most impressive feature of the clock is the blue and gold engraved clock face with fantastically detailed signs of the zodiac encircling it. The large dial on the clock is set with the huge face of the sun. The dial, emblazed with the image of the sun, revolves around the zodiac signs and rather than showing the time, it marks the date. In the centre is a small gold orb representing the sun and below it, a smaller orb representing the phases of the moon.

St Mark’s Basilica

St. Mark’s Basilica is famously one of the most precious Byzantine treasures of the time. Within it, preserved by time, are so many aspects of history, art culture and faith. The most notable element of the design of the church are the powerful domes that are set against the sky. The bulb-shaped domes with their finials lanterns give the church that middle eastern appearance and character which defined the Byzantine period.

The exterior of St. Mark’s Basilica can be studied by its three distinctive areas; the lower level, upper level and the domes. The lower level mosaics are all scenes from the life of Saint Mark, for whom the church derives its name. In the central arch where the enormous doorway is located there is the largest mosaic which depicts the Last Judgment. The original mosaic would have been made in the 13th century but this current incarnation from the 19th-century. The portals which lead into the church are stacked with various colours of marble, creating a foreshortening perspective effect. Like you are being pulled into the church.

Mosaics of St. Mark’s Basilica

On either side of the central portal, the mosaics each depict the life of St. Mark. The first one on the left is the only one on the façade still surviving from the 13th century. The lunettes above the first floor depict the life of Christ. The lower level features dozens of marble columns. These rich columns are decorated in sumptuous vegetal motifs.

The Bronze Horses

The upper-level balcony, above the main entrance, also features four bronze horses. There are the Horses of Saint Mark-Lysippos and were stolen from Constantinople in 1252. The ones outside the church today are actually replicas of the original horses, as the originals were suffering terribly from the elements. They were brought inside the church museum in order to preserve them for years to come. The original bronze horses date all the way back to classical antiquity. It is rumoured that perhaps they once were positioned pulling an emperors chariot atop the Arch of Trajan in Rome. The Horses were one of the many trophies collected during the Crusades.

Above the horses, the ogee arch is decorated with blue glass and golden stars. In fro of this starry sky is the gilded winged lion, the symbol of Venice. Above the great lion, standing brightly against the blue sky, are Saint Mark and his six angels.

Entering St. Mark’s Basilica

If you are interested in going inside the Basilica, be warned the queue can get very long. But if you want to save yourself a bit of time you can book a timed entry ticket online that only costs €6.00. Well worth it, in my opinion, to be sure you are the first one in the door, leaving the rest of your day completely open.

If you don’t buy your ticket in advance, you will have to line up. The wait time is, on average, about 45 minutes but the earlier you arrive in the morning, the less of a line you’ll run into. When we arrived, early in the day, the line moved swiftly and we barely had to wait at all. But of course, this depends on the time of year you visit.

Interior Mosaics

Upon entering the church the first thing you’ll notice is the overwhelming amount of golden mosaics covering the floor, all the way up to the domed ceiling. There are over 85,000 square feet of mosaics in St. Mark’s Basilica. The light reflects off the surface of the glass and depending on the time of the day, the light changes the effect and the appearance of the interior. So depending on when you visit you might get a different experience from someone else. So much gold was used in its construction of the church that the residents of Venice would call it the Chizea d’Oro or, the Gold Church.

Because the Basilica was built during the Byzantine age, and architectural methods weren’t as advanced as they are now, you’ll notice large thick walls, hundreds of columns and the heavy use of marble. They needed only the strongest of materials to help keep the multi-domed ceiling standing.

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Inside the church are the treasures of the fourth crusade on the holy land. During the 4th-century crusade, Venice deemed itself the holiest place on earth. And therefore all the treasures the crusading armies found were brought to Venice. One such treasure is the Pala d’Oro. The Pala d’Oro is decorated with 1,300 pearls, 300 emeralds, 300 sapphires, 400 garnets, 100 amethysts, plus rubies and topazes. A glittering masterpiece.

Porta Della Carta

Coming back out of the church, into St Mark’s square, be sure to take a moment to study the Porta della Carta on the side of the church. In 1442 this was the ceremonial entrance to the church was built to connect the church to the Doge’s Palace. The doorway is dripping in gothic ornamentation, with two tall, thin pinnacles flanking either side of the statue of the Doge Francesco Foscari. The Doge is seen kneeling before the Lion of Saint Mark. Below each pinnacle is are statues of cardinal virtues.  

Doge’s Palace

A Venetian Doge is something that many of you may not have heard of before. A Doge is pretty much like an English Duke, they served as the leader of the Republic of Venice from 726 to 1797. The Doge would rule over Venice from his seat of power inside the incredible Doge’s Palace. Today the building serves a public museum.

The building itself is a wonder to behold. Despite the enormity of the upper structure, it looks almost weightless as it is supported by the delicate pink Verona marble columns. The columns are decorated with a lacy pattern, making them look even more fragile. The top of the building is adorned with spiked merlons and looks like frosted meringue atop a cake.

Walk through the arcade and study the individual capitals of the columns on the right side.

Piazzetta 

Past the Basilica, walking south towards the water, you can find the Piazzetta. The Piazzetta is the smaller square to the south. In the middle of the square are two large two columns, made in red marble. Between these two columns is where death sentences were announced during the medieval ages.

At the top of the columns are two statues, each depicting one of the patron saints of Venice; St Mark and St Theodore, on the left and right respectively if you’re facing the water. St. Mark is depicted as the winged lion of Venice and St. Theodore can be seen standing atop, of all things, a crocodile. In his hand, he also holds a spear which we can assume he used to slay the giant crocodile. Saint Theodore is more commonly known for slaying a dragon, not a crocodile, but perhaps the Venetians artists of the time who made this carving had little knowledge of what a real dragon looked like, so instead, they simply carved the next best thing, a crocodile.

The Bridge of Sighs

Walk around the Doge’s Palace until you turn to face the Bridge of Sighs. The bridge of sighs created to join the interrogation rooms of the Doge’s Palace to the prison across the canal. If you were found guilty by the Serenissima you were set to the prison, but upon crossing the bridge, were allowed to look out at Venice one last time. Two small, square windows on the bridge allowed prisoners this one moment of reflection, before facing their possible lifetime of imprisonment. The bridge’s windows are covered in a tightly knit wrought iron bars, so no one could escape.

Day Two – Exploring the Hidden Canals

Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo

Continue heading north until you reach the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. This small palazzo has become an iconic viewpoint in Venice. The palazzo’s incredible, honeycomb-like spiral staircase, with a fantastic balcony at the top, provides one of the most amazing views across the city, and over St. Mark’s square. The staircase is called the “Scala Contarini del Bovolo” or “or the snail”.

Built in the 15th century for the wealthy Contarini family, the house became instantly notable for its unique outer staircase. In 1952 Orson Welles also fell in love with the house and even featured it in his film adaptation of Shakespeare’s Othello. The Palazzo was closed for many years but in 2016 it opened up its doors to the public. For three euros you can climb the stairs to the top and get a snap of the great landscape.

Explore the Side Canals

Make your way through this small island, heading north and slightly eastward. I don’t want to give you exact directions since exploring and getting lost in these small, neighbourhood streets is half the fun. You’ll discover amazing balconies pouring over with brightly coloured flowers. You might uncover a few secrets, etched into the walls of the alleyways. Or even discover your new favourite pastry shop. While there are some specific sights to see in Venice, exploring these side streets is a joy unto its own.

The Grand Canal

Continue walking north along the Corte Theatro, through one of the darkest brick tunnels, until you emerge out into the bright light of the Grand Canal. As this is the first time we are really faced with the view of the Grand Canal, I suppose we should talk a little bit about this ever so important waterway. The Grand Canal essentially splits the city of Venice into two. While the original waterway which ran through here was no doubt much narrower, the ancient river is thought to be a branch of the Brenta. Ancient Venetian fishermen were once the only ones who lived here, in simple stilt houses.

It wasn’t until the 9th century when the Doge moved his palace into the more protected area of what would become St Mark’s square, that the canal was widened. The canal needed to be larger in order to make room for the large ships needed for the construction of the palace. The canal became less of a fishing spot and more like a ritzy main street. Wealthy families began buying up property and building their huge manors along the Grand Canal.

History of the Grand Canal

The grand canal was the entryway into the city and the Venetian Republic wanted every building lining it to demonstrate the city’s power, wealth and artistic sensibilities. Like a parade of the best architecture Europe had to offer. This huge canal is now flanked by 170 illustrious buildings, which are from as early as the 13th century to the 18th century.

Rialto Bridge

Continue along with the Riva del Ferro, walking along the edge of the Grand Canal. Emerging from the last arcade you’ll be greeted almost immediately by the sight of the bright white stone of the Rialto bridge. The Rialto Bridge is the most famous of all of Venice’s canal bridges. It is also the oldest of the four major bridges which connect the various districts of Venice. The original wooden bridge installed here was built here in 1173. Back then it went by the name Ponte Della Moneta, which means “money bridge“. The reason for this was that on one side of the canal once stood the largest mint in Venice. People would flood into their area and across the bridge at all hours of the day to deposit and take out their cash!

The old wooden bridge was split down the center and could be raised on either side, to allow for tall ships to enter into these narrow canals. This was of the utmost importance especially when the Rialto Market opened, as boats would come in in mass to deliver fresh fruits, vegetables and fish. But as time past, the wooden bridge just wasn’t up to snuff though. After years and years of wear, riots, fires and crowds eventually it collapsed.

New Rialto Bridge

The new Rialto bridge design was completed in 1551. The architect who designed it did away with the raised wooden design and instead favoured stone as it was more durable and could last the test of time. Since the stone bridge couldn’t be raised, he needed to ensure that the two inclined ramps would be tall enough to accommodate the galley ships that needed to pass through. The result is this grand archway which looks like a gilded enclosure around a picturesque living portrait. The stone structure also featured a covered portico on top with rows of shops on either side. The addition of shops here meant that their rent could help pay for the maintenance of the bridge going forward. Between the inclined set of porticos is a large arch, like the crown atop this stunning structure.

While the bridge has become somewhat of a tourist trap, with stores selling souvenirs lining the entire walkway, early in the morning when they are all closed, this bridge still keeps its magic. There are these two little nooks on the bottom of the bridge, where you can sit right under it, besides the water. This is one of the most amazing places to watch boats and gondolas float by with stacks of fruits and vegetables coming into the market as dawn casts itself on the city. The top of the bridge is also one of the most iconic spots for pictures in Venice.

Mercado di Rialto

Now that you’ve been introduced to the look of the city, it’s time to meet the people of Venice. And there is no better place to get a peek into the real lives of the residence of Venice than to head to the Rialto Market! The Rialto Market is one of the last remaining fresh food markets in the city and as such, is a bustling place for locals to come and buy their food for the day. The outdoor portion of the market is where you’ll find seasonal fruits and vegetables. If you’re looking for a snack there is nothing more refreshing than a basket of freshly picked fruits!

But the Rialto Market is much more than just a place to get some of the best food in the city! It is also a place of great historical value. Of all the rich bankers and traders who lived in the region, the most famous were the Rivoalto family. The Rivoalto traders were one of the first families to come into the lagoon to set up a trading post. They picked this location because it was situated along the bend of the lagoon. This meant it was located on higher ground and therefore was spared from some of the floodings that other parts of the island experienced. The first known market took place here in 1097. Because the family didn’t have to constantly rebuild themselves, the Rivoaltos grew in prominence and wealth over time, eventually having the very spot named after them.

Pescheria

Opposite the green awning of the outdoor market is the neo-gothic fish hall, or Pescheria, built in the early 1900s. Outside the red brick building there is still to this day a marble plaque which you should study before heading inside. This plaque denotes the different types of fish which were allowed to be legally sold here when the marketplace was first built. Certain fishes were protected from overfishing and therefore there was a limit to the amount any one person could buy.

The fish hall is a soaring building with richly ornamented arches surrounding the exterior. Inside the columns continue throughout the interior, making a simple stone building feel rich and illustrious. Fresh fish has long been one of the most important resources in Venice. Right outside their door, this amazing product is caught daily. It can’t get much more local than that!

Buying food at the Market

The market place was facing the chance of being shut down a few years ago, due to a possible canal expansion for cruise ships. Thankfully the citizens were able to convince the city to stop this and the market was saved. But as more and more people choose to shop at larger grocery stores off the island markets like this always face the chance of being closed. So if you’re going to visit, be sure you buy at least a little something. We bought some fresh raspberries and cherries and they were absolutely delicious!

Basilica dei Frari

But probably what brings most people to San Polo is the Basilica dei Frari or Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. But most people just call it the “Frari” for short. The church is the beating heart of this neighbourhood. In 1231 the Doge Jacopo Tiepolo donated some land to the Franciscans. The original church he had built was small and as the Franscians rose to power, they demolished it in exchange for a larger, more impressive design. The current version was built in the 14th-century in high Venetian Gothic style.

At the back of the church is the great campanile, which is the second tallest tower in the city, after San Marco’s tower. The bell tower was built in 1396 and still stands today! The unassuming facade might fool you into thinking at first blush this church isn’t very important. But in actuality, it is perhaps one of the most significant churches in the city.

Titian Paintings in Venice

Many Doges were buried here under the watchful eye of masterful works of art by the painter Titian. Titian, who was a Venetian himself, painted the great altarpiece inside the church. The Assumption of the Virgin by Titian is one of the first things your eye is drawn towards as you enter the church. It sits behind the high altar, lit by the glow of the stained glass windows behind it. This piece is perhaps the best example of Titan’s masterful work. Setting the standard for Venetian art during the Renaissance.

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Entry into the Church

There is a small fee to enter the church (€ 3,00) but it is more than worth it to gaze upon the painting the Assumption of the Virgin in situ. When I first saw this painting in person, it was a moment of awe for me. Some paintings, like the Mona Lisa perhaps, don’t live up to the hype. But this one is even more grandiose and firey in person than it was on any page or screen.

Titian died of the plague at the age of 94 and a memorial to his life and death stands inside the great basilica. The monument is gigantic! A version of the Assumption painting is carved into the stone behind an image of the painter crowed with a laurel wreath. On either side of the artist are two figures which represent the universal nature and the genius of knowledge. The other four figures are Painting, Sculpture, Graphic Art and Architecture.

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Dorsoduro District

The Dorsoduro district is located on the bottom of the Venetian islands. This area borders the Grand Canal as well as the Venetian Lagoon, making it a prime spot for traders to live. While it’s not as flashy as the other districts, think of this as the blue-collar neighbourhood, I still find it to be one of the most charming areas in Venice. Dorsoduro lacks the pretensions of the other neighbourhood. Since it’s home to Venice’s Ca’ Foscari University you’ll also find the new blood of Venetian society, its students, who liven up the streets with modern music, food and entertainment.

Ponte dei Pugni

Continuing south, we’ll be going to pass over the Ponte dei Pugni. I love the view from this bridge. If you look towards the west you can see the bell tower from the church of Santa Maria del Carmelo. On either side of the bridge are a pair of footsteps marked on the corner. This marked the beginning of where the great fight between Venice’s two rival family factions took place in 1705. Thereafter, many more fights took place here. Opponents would stand on either side of the bridge, where the footsteps are now marked. Originally, there were no railings on this bridge, so when the two opponents would fight, the first one to fall off the bridge and into the water as the loser.

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Cantine del Vino già Schiavi

By this time, we are approaching the evening, but its not time for dinner just yet. Oh no, first we must have aperitif! And one of the best places to get it in Dorsoduro is Cantine del Vino già Schiavi. This bar sells Cicchetti (small snacks) which include Venetian classics like crostini topped with salt cod and wild garlic, pistachio cream or alioli with flower petals. Grab an Aperol spritz to drink while standing at the bar to feel very much like a local.

Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese

Head northeast until you reach the Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese. This narrow street is filled with shops. Being so far away from the touristy areas, these stores are known to seel authentic Venetian goods but at reasonable prices. In addition to the tourist shops, you’ll also find unique boutiques which are a great way to support local businesses.

Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute

If you’re still feeling up for it, continue walking through Dorsoduro, eastwards, until you reach the Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute. This stunning white marble church is not only a sight to see, but where you can get a great view of Saint Mark’s square, where we first started the tour.

In 1630 Venice was being ravaged by the plague and there was no signs of it stopping. At the time, one of the ways people thought you could stop the plague was by making an offering to god and pray he would send deliverance to the city. So, the Republic of Venice built the church to Our Lady of Health as a last resort. Eventually, the plague period past and the city was able to start rebuilding itself. Nearly a third of the population of Venice died during the plague. Those that survived would remember that harrowing experience forever. Since the church was made in honour of stopping the plague, most of the art and symbolism you’ll find throughout the church in some way refers to death or the plague, making it a very uniquely themed church. 

The Dome of Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute

The church is most notable for its humongous white dome which dominates the sky. The dome, which almost seems to defy gravity, became a symbol of inspiration for artists in the city. To support the huge dome and enormous marble church, 1,000,000 wooden piles were used to hold up the floating building. At the apex of the central pediment stands a statue of the Virgin Mary, looking out of the city. The group of figures in the scene is stunningly theatrical and it really looks like a moment frozen in time.

If you choose to come inside be sure to check out the statuary group at the high altar. This stone scene depicts depicting The Queen of Heaven expelling the Plague and was crafted in 1670. 

Zattere

To finish the evening, walk down south towards the far end of the island. The stone promenade which flanks the water’s edge is called the Zattere. Zattere in Italian means rafts. In the 16th century timber would arrive in the city on large rafts. Timber was not only used to constructed the walls of grand palazzos and houses in Venice, it was literally the ground on which the houses were built on. So timber was one of the most important imports in the city. Timber was also used to make gondolas up until the 18th century. Suffice to say, the city was literally built around the timber industry and therefore its importance is not to be ignored. The earliest parts of the Zattere date as far back as 1520! Today the wide promenade is a great place to watch the sunset against the waters of the canals.

Trattoria San Basilio

If you’re feeling like you would like to dine somewhere close to your accommodation there are Vaporetto stops all along the Fondamenta Zattere. But if you’re looking for something special along the water’s edge, but away from the touristy hub, you should check out Trattoria San Basilio.

This down to earth restaurant is located inside the corner of one of the older buildings in the Zattere. It barely looks like a restaurant at all except for the awning and few tables and chairs out front. But don’t let its modesty fool you, here you’ll find a relaxing atmosphere, friendly staff, and best of all, traditional Venetian cuisine. Their seafood spaghetti with mussels, clams and squids, tastes so fresh you’d swear the food jumped right onto your plate straight from the water. Try to get a spot outside to enjoy the sunset or the boats as they drive past into the moonlight.

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Phew, well that brings us to the end of this tour! Hopefully, if you packed this all into one day you found things along the way to return to tomorrow to investigate further! Let me know which neighbourhood was your favourite or what you’re most looking forward to visiting!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Escape to Venice: Your Ultimate Guide to the Perfect 48 Hours in the Floating City – Steal This Itinerary Today! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. Arashiyama Countryside
3. Arriving in Arashiyama
4. Finding your Way into the Grove
5. When to Arrive
   • The Bamboo
6. The Importance of Bamboo in Japan
7. Nonomiya Shrine
   • Marriage and Childbirth Shrine
8. Bamboo Grove Cemetery
9. Sagano Scenic Railway
10. Street Artisans
11. Modes of Transportation through the Forest
    • Additional Sights in Arashiyama

Access

We set off to Arashiyama by bus. There are multiple ways of getting to the Grove, and most people will opt for the train option since you avoid the chance of getting into any traffic jams, but the bus route for us was much faster from our destination, so always be sure to check before departing to see which route will be the fastest from your location. The bus does have a bonus aspect of seeing Kyoto and the surrounding countryside as you drive.

We took the #73 bus from outside Higashihonganji Temple. It cost just 230 yen for the entire journey. Remember on the buses in Kyoto you pay your far after you exit the bus, not when you get on. To get there by rail, you simply take a train from Kyoto Station and take the JR Sagano/San-in Main Line to Saga-Arashiyama Station. The ride takes 15 minutes followed by a 10-minute walk to the Bamboo Grove. The ride costs 240 yen.

Arashiyama Countryside

As you approach Arashiyama, the first thing you’ll see is that the flat vistas disappear for mountainous ranges. In the early 700-1100s, wealthy nobles would travel to Arashiyama to enjoy its natural landscape and escape the city. While it’s still true that people come here as an escape, now this place is for everyone, rich or poor. The word “Arashiyama” translates into “Storm Mountain”. The mountains here are covered in lush trees, and because of this, they are slightly dark, giving them their intimidating name. The mountains look down on the Ōi River, creating a picturesque view as you drive in.

Arriving in Arashiyama

Arriving in Arashiyama, you get off the bus and walk up the main street to enter the forest. Entering the forest by bus also gives you access to the less used entrance, and you’ll notice that there are much fewer people here than where the train station drops people off. The streets of Arashiyama in the early morning are relatively quiet. The main street of Arashiyama is quite touristy, so early in the morning not many people are out walking the streets. Arriving as early as you can is the best way to view both the city and the forest before it is overrun with sightseers.

Even the manhole covers here in Arashiyama reflect the natural surroundings.

Finding your Way into the Grove

The Bamboo Grove, take up over 500 meters of winding pathways. To get to the start of the path, head west from the train station. There are dozens of signs in English and Japanese to help guide your way. The entrance to the beginning of the bamboo grove is flanked on either side by thick concrete walls and it’s strange to this that this narrow, cold passageway will open up into a spectacular oasis. The grove is never closed and there is (currently) no admission to enter. But like Venice, who city council is now charging admission to enter it’s ever growing popular city center, this could change over time to help preserve the forest.

When to Arrive

Obviously everyone wants to be here when you’ll have a clear shot of the grove without anyone in the way. And while there are those precious few rare moments they’re very hard to find. Lots of people will tell you to come even before sunrise. And while that’s probably your best chance, even those super early risers have been disappointed to see that hundreds of other had the same idea.

My advice is to take the crowds as they come and not to stress about waking up SUPER early on what’s supposed to be a relaxing vacation. I actually found that later in the afternoon there were the least amount of people in comparison to the morning. It seemed like the tour buses were well on their way home as the sun began to set. But even with tourists aplenty there is still plenty to enjoy and ways to get those amazing shots!

If one area becomes inundated with people, quickly pass through the crowd, and suddenly you’ll see that the path opens up. The dense areas of individuals tend to be formed by bus tours, all walking through together, so if you pass by them quickly, you might find that space they just left is pretty empty. A lot of these tour buses also don’t spend too much time in the forest. They enter at the beginning of the path but never make it to the end. I found that if you walk to the very end of the grove you’ll find that by the end of the path, you’ll have the place to yourself at times.

The Bamboo

As you first walk into the forest, you’ll be immediately struck with the overwhelming quiet that the grove creates. You are enveloped by these towering emerald stalks, so tall they almost stop light from entering in. The bamboo itself is truly stunning. The stalks are so thick and bright green in the sunlight. The trunks creak ever so much when a big gust of wind passes through, and they make the eeriest, yet wonderfully delicate, noise. Like a old, worn floor when you walk across it in the night.

The Importance of Bamboo in Japan

While the Bamboo Forest is not only gorgeous to look at their importance to Japan spreads farther than just a pretty picture. Bamboo is one of the strongest plants there is. Standing up, so straight and tall, one wonders how that’s scientifically possible, They sway and bend in the wind and yet almost never crack. In fact, historically people would run into the bamboo groves when there was an earthquake since the root structure of the bamboo was so strong it would even withstand such a powerful force as an earthquake.

One of the most popular uses of this strong material was in building roads and in the construction of houses. You’ll still see many construction sites in Japan using bamboo as scaffolding to this day since it is so strong. Bamboo is used to ward off evil and people also write their wishes on strips of paper made from bamboo during large Japanese festivals. It’s used to create wind instruments and handicrafts. It’s also used as an important ingredients in many Japanese and international dishes as well as for many herbal remedies. There are so many things which incorporated bamboo within the daily life of a person in Japan and it’s important to keep this in mind when exploring the forest.

Nonomiya Shrine

Different parts of the path veer off giving access to the various other attractions that are housed inside the forest. The Tenryuji temple and Nonomiya Shrine serve as markers which flank either end of the path. Inside the bamboo grove, you’ll stumble upon the Nonomiya Shrine. This little Shinto shrine is where unmarried imperial princesses have journeyed to purify themselves before their marriage. The deities that are enshrined here include “Nonomiya Okami”; God of Health and Wisdom, “Shirafuku Inari Daimmyojin”; God of Conception, Smooth Childbirth, and Prosperous Business, “Shiramine Benzaiten” and most importantly for single women, “Nonomiya Daikokuten”; God for Matchmaking.

Good luck talismans are sold near the shrine to give good fortunes to the receivers. Their colourful embroidery is so striking and makes even the happiest person feel in “need” of a good luck charm.

Marriage and Childbirth Shrine

Many couples make their way here to pray for a good marriage with their partners. We were sure to stop momentarily to ring the bell, clap our hands, and bow to the shrine. A little more luck can’t even hurt

This shrine is also a place where married couples wish for a healthy baby and painless childbirth. So you’ll often happy couples holding hands or pregnant women writing their wishes on the ema boards near the front of the temple.

Bamboo Grove Cemetery

Beside the temple, there is a cemetery with hundreds of obelisk stones standing guard beside the gate. Each one represents either a person or an entire family, who are entombed below. Since it is law in Japan that a person is cremated after death, whole families are often buried together. Their living relatives will often come to visit their graves and place offerings when they do. These offerings are often things the people enjoyed in their waking life. You’ll see things like books, beers and even dishes of food laid out on top of the stones. It’s a wonderful tradition that makes it feel like those people are still with us. Coming out at night to dine, read or drink in the moonlight.

Sagano Scenic Railway

At the end of the woods, you’ll come across the Sagano Scenic Railway, which has also been dubbed “the Romantic Train”. It’s a retro-style steam train which runs along the Hozu River, giving viewers some fantastic views of Arashiyama as it chugs along. The station itself is stunning and makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

Street Artisans

Throughout the maze of bamboo, artisans pop up around every corner, selling various crafts made out of the pliable substance. They shape the bamboo into birds and animals with the most delicate touch.

Modes of Transportation through the Forest

Bicycle rentals around the grove are available is you want to cruise through the grove as well as explore the other areas around the forest. Bicycle rentals will cost you around 500-1500 yen per day depending on where you pick up your rental. There are also many rickshaws which will carry you and one other person through the pathways. These tend to be pretty expensive with prices ranging from 5,000 to 7,000 yen for a 20 mins ride for two people.

These will not only take you through the forest but the surrounding village as well. It’s comparable to prices of gondolas in Venice. Personally I think it’s much more enjoyable to watch these rickshaws run by than ride inside them but that simply because I’d prefer to save that money for a delicious meal. I found the best way to explore was by foot. Take your time. Listen to the wind blowing through the bamboos and soak up as much of the tranquility as you can.

Additional Sights in Arashiyama

To escape some of the busier moment in the forest I recommend heading over to the Okochi-Sanso Villa or the Tenryuji temple. Both of these places charge a small admission to enter but by charging a small amount to explore this both reduces and controls the traffic as well as helps preserve the environment.

Something for Arashiyama to consider for the Bamboo Forest itself is a small entry fee to enter the grove. This is something Venice is also implementing to help preserve their historical city center against day trippers who come in and don’t spend any money in the town itself. Arashiyama has a similar problem with bus tours who simply arrive at the forest, drop the tourists off, allow them a short time to explore the forest. Then, they pile them back on the bus without giving them anytime to explore the town and spend some money their to help the villagers support their hometown. I implore you if you are visiting the grove to make a time to explore the entirety of Arashiyama Village.

The bamboo forest is truly one of the most incredible nature wonders of the world and a MUST for anyone visiting Japan. Don’t miss out. Don’t get caught up with the crowds. Come with realistic expectations of how many other people want to see this incredible place. You most likely won’t have it all to yourself but how can you blame other for also wanting to see this wonder? Finding peace within this chaos isn’t something that comes easy, but when you do find it, that’s what makes the journey worth it.

The post Our Guide to Exploring the Natural Wonders of the Beautiful Arashiyama Bamboo Grove first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Don't go up Tokyo Tower or Tokyo Skytree
   • Instead, travel over to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building
2. Don't get caught up looking up restaurants on Yelp or Tabelog
   • Instead, walk in anywhere with a line!
3. Don't go out of your way to visit only the popular shrines
   • Instead, skips the lines and find a hidden neighbourhood shrine
4. Don't Always Head to Coffee Shops in the Morning
   • Instead, head to your local conbini
5. Don't buy your souvenirs at souvenir shops
   • Instead, head to the nearest 100 yen shop!
6. Don't drink in the Golden Gai
   • Instead head down to Shinjuku's Omoide Yokocho
7. Don't get lured into going to a Maid Cafe
   • Instead, try visiting another experiencial themed restaurant!
8. Don't visit Takeshita Dori if you're looking for Tokyo's Underground Fashion Scene
   • Instead, head over to Shimokitazawa
   • And finally…don't spend all your time in Tokyo!

Don’t go up Tokyo Tower or Tokyo Skytree

A view from atop the city, especially somewhere as large and spread out as Tokyo, is always a valuable experience. But the lines and cost for Tokyo Tower or Tokyo Skytree far exceed the enjoyment you’ll get once you get to the top. If you’re only in Tokyo for a week, chances are you don’t want to spend some of that time, lined up for a trip up an elevator.

Instead, travel over to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building

Head on over to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building and take the elevator up to the rooftop where you get an unbelievable view of the city, PLUS a view of the Skytree itself. If you’re looking for a view that comes with a stylish rooftop garden then header over to the Tokyu Plaza Omotesando in Harajuku where the 7th floor provides a stunning green space with ample room for relaxing. Despite the fact that there is a Starbucks which the gardens back out on, you can grab your own food and drinks up to the top. It really is the perfect place for a conbini picnic (“conbini” is a short term word for Japanese convenience stores).

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Don’t get caught up looking up restaurants on Yelp or Tabelog

Often when travelling, you want to make the most out of your experiences and don’t want to waste your money on a touristy or subpar restaurant. For this reason, even I find myself obsessively looking up reviews of where I want to eat whenever I’m travelling. Sometimes this is done in advance but when I’m stuck reading review after review in the middle of my adventure I can’t but help feel like I’m wasting precious travel time. In Japan, this is just not necessary. You can close your eyes and twirl around to walk straight into a restaurant with the best food you’ve ever eaten!  

Instead, walk in anywhere with a line!

Don’t waste your time trying to find the perfect place to eat, instead, wander until something calls your name and draws you in. If there is one particular restaurant you ABSOLUTELY have to find, then make sure to make reservations because popular joints in Tokyo often fill up in advance very quickly.

Don’t go out of your way to visit only the popular shrines

Meiji Shrine is often at the top of every traveller’s list, but honestly, there are so many other shrines just as impressive all over Tokyo that you will just happen upon. Although it is perhaps the biggest and most notable, there are so many other I would rate much higher. Don’t stress and go far out of your way or wait in long, long line for these so-called “must-see” shrines. 

Instead, skips the lines and find a hidden neighbourhood shrine

The best part of the Meiji Shrine are the sake barrels in front which can be visited before entering the shrine without waiting in a long line. The most beautiful shrine I found in Tokyo was one I had never heard of before all the way in Akasaka. I won’t tell you where (although I do talk about it in some of my other blogs) since I want you to go out and find your own unique place! If you do – let me know in the comments!

Don’t Always Head to Coffee Shops in the Morning

While there are some incredibly cool coffee shops in Tokyo, they are generally pretty expensive since coffee-shop coffee is considered a luxury. A Starbucks frappucino will run you about 9$ USD for a tall! 

Instead, head to your local conbini

There are dozens upon dozens of flavours and strengths inside hot and cold cans as well as gourmet brewed fresh coffee which you can buy at the front of the store. If you add milk to your coffee, it even comes out frothed and foamed! I think I prefer the coffee at 7-Eleven to Lawsons or Family Mart but they’ll all really good. There are even cold Starbucks coffees and blended drinks available in regular and specialty flavours at a fourth of the price you’d pay in Starbucks shops – so skip the lines and buy them here! 

Don’t buy your souvenirs at souvenir shops

I’m not talking about something unique like a handmade Kimono from Kyoto; I’m talking about the little knick-knacks you might find in those cheezy tourist shops purposefully placed right in front of popular attractions. They will always be priced for convenience, not value.

Instead, head to the nearest 100 yen shop!

100 yen shops are the coolest place to find all sorts of things to use both on your trip and when you get home. If you are a crafty person, you’ll find some adorable and CHEAP items here like notebooks, stickers, washi tape and more! It was honestly hard for me to hold back from buying up the entire section. But best of all are the things for sale here for our purposes are the souvenirs. You can find delightful Japanese themed magnetics, ceramic bowls with cherry blossoms, bamboo chopstick sets and more – all for only 100 yen (plus tax).

TIP: most 100 yen shops only take cash. If you don’t want to spend all your cash here, try the DAISO in Harajuku. Since they deal with such large purchases due to being in a tourist-traffic area, they are currently accepting credit cards.

Don’t drink in the Golden Gai

Golden Gai is one of those long talked about tourist attractions that is the only real “scammy” areas in Japan. Golden Gai is located in Shinjuku and is known for its narrow, winding alleys and teeny-tiny bars. They charge outrageous prices just to get in the door of some of these establishments. Each one has a different theme and fits about 6-8 people. Some of the bars roundly object to foreigners, so much so that they have signs outside saying “no nonnatives” or “For Japanese speakers only”. The ones that do let tourists inside have overpriced drinks, and any sense of authenticity has long since been lost.

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Instead head down to Shinjuku’s Omoide Yokocho

Omoide Yokocho or Memory Lane is a gritty little district also in Shinjuku, and has the funny English nickname “Piss Alley”. Despite the name, this place is happening! It is full of locals and tourists alike, making new friends and drinking delicious cups of sake and Japanese craft beer at reasonable prices! This is a great area to meet new Japanese friends who can introduce you to all sorts of hidden gems. If you’re looking for other great nighttime activities be sure to check out alltherooms’s blog! Valentina does a fantastic job at listing all the best Tokyo experiences from fine-dining to miniature-sized pubs to robot dinosaur battles!

Don’t get lured into going to a Maid Cafe

Maid Cafes are all over the place in neighbourhoods like Akihabara. You’ll see cute, young girls dressed in maid uniforms on the street handing out flyers, inviting you into their cafes. If this sounds a bit, well, sketchy then you might be right. Inside these maid cafes, you’ll find cutesy interiors where the maids putter about serving overpriced food and drinks. Some of the meals are decorated or moulded to look like adorable animals, but the food itself is rather bland and unimpressive.

Pictures with the maids are often an additional charge, and you can even pay them to sing you a song at your table. While they’ve fallen out of favour with locals, they are still gaining popularity with tourists for the weirdness of the experience. And while it’s not a total scam and is indeed a bizarre experience, there are plenty of other fantastically themed restaurants where you can find the same impressive theming without forcing women to dress in degrading uniforms.

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Instead, try visiting another experiencial themed restaurant!

If you’re looking for experiential restaurants there are lots of fun ones to choose from! The Zauo Fishing Restaurant is another unusual kind of eatery. Here you have to catch your own dinner. You get a rod and some bait and attempt to catch the exact fish you want to eat. If you manage to catch something, they’ll cook it up any way you like. If you don’t manage to catch anything, not to worry, there are still lots of menu items you can order as well! The LockUp is a haunting restaurant where you’ll be chased by monsters, drink spooky cocktails and dine on wild dishes – an experience you won’t soon forget.

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Don’t visit Takeshita Dori if you’re looking for Tokyo’s Underground Fashion Scene

Harajuku is still a wildly exciting place to shop, but the more avant-garde dressers and shops have been replaced with big brands and hoards of tourists. While I still have fun visiting Harajuku, don’t come here expecting to see Lolitas, goths and punks roaming the streets.

Instead, head over to Shimokitazawa

Shimokitazawa is where you’ll find some of the best-curated vintage shops in all of Tokyo. The fashionable kids who have fled Harajuku, away from the tourists, are now all set up in Shimokitazawa. There are dozens of eclectic restaurants, cafes and best of all – clothing shops, open up and down the hilly alleyways of this delightful district.

And finally…don’t spend all your time in Tokyo!

Even if you only have a week in this great city and can’t make it out to other cities like Kyoto, Hiroshima and Fukuoka (although if you can swing it, I highly recommend you do!), there are dozens of small towns only a few hours train ride away from Tokyo. These places which will transport you away from the hustle and bustle of the big city and into the peaceful countryside. Nikko, Enoshima, Hakone and Kamakura are just some of the beautiful cities which will give you a glimpse into another side of Japan. Perhaps something which will give you a taste of the other side of this magical island and force you to find time to return! 

And if you’re anything like me, it will be again, and again, and again, and again…

The post Navigating Tokyo Like a Pro: A Guide to What Not to Do and What to Do Instead first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.