Aztec - The Creative Adventurer

Ultimate Guide to Chapultepec Park: Historical and Cultural Heart of Mexico City

The Creative Adventurer — Mon, 07 Feb 2022 16:30:02 +0000

When I first came to Chapultepec Park, I am ashamed to say it was one of the most frustrating moments of my travels. And that‘s no one’s fault but my own. I made two critical mistakes; underestimating the park’s size and not heading directly to the main entry gates. We had timed tickets into Chapultepec Castle and were in a rush to make it up there in time. Thankfully, I managed to maneuver my way to the proper entrance thanks to my beloved mother who helped navigate our way through the winding back pathways.

Despite our rather stressful introduction to the park, in getting lost we uncovered so many different parts of the park I had never seen mentioned in other guides! I made it a point to return the next morning! I arrived early in the day, set out to explore every inch of Chapultepec Park. What I discovered was truly one of the most spectacular public parks I had ever seen. Not only is Chapultepec Park unsurpassed in terms of beauty, but it also has a long history that dates back to the 10th century. The park is heralded for its bio-diversity, lush gardens, and home to some of Mexico City’s most iconic landmarks. It is no surprise to learn it won the gold award from the World Urban Parks Association as one of the most beautiful parks in the world!

But it’s not just a tourist destination either; it’s also full of life. Locals come here to cool themselves under the forest canopy and snack on incredible street food. If you’re looking to escape city life and immerse yourself in nature, Chapultepec Park is the place to be!

What to Know Before you Arrive

Bosque Chapultapec or Chapultapec Park is enormous. It is twice the size of Central Park, which many people think of as one of the largest parks in the world! So having a guide to follow or knowing what you want to see when you’re there is key. Bosque Chapultapec or Chapultapec Park is actually divided into three sections or “Seccións.” This guide will explore the First section, which is both the oldest portion of the park and contains the most important landmarks.

Key Tips

As mentioned above, the park is HUGE. Give yourself the entire day if you’re planning on exploring all of the first section.
Arrive early in the morning, not only to give yourself lots of time to visit but also to avoid the crowds which peak in the afternoon.
Most of the signage in the park is all in Spanish. Use this guide to help you get the context to understand what you’re seeing. Download the Google Translate app and the Spanish language pack to be able to translte signage with your camera.
There are no restaurants located inside the park. The only place to eat is at street food stalls, which primarily surround the lake. You can also grab a bite to eat at the Anthropology or Modern Art Museum.
Chapultepec has a strict no food or beverage policy. That means you can’t even bring in food to eat later in the park. So if you plan on picning, be sure to eat before you enter the castle. They will often search your bags so don’t think you can just hide it.
Various Museums offer free entry on Sundays. Be sure to check their websites in advance if you’re looking to save some money on entry fees.
Weekends are by far the busiest time to visit the park. But that is also when most street vendors are out, and the park’s personality shines. Just plan accordingly.

Hours & Access

The park is open from 5 a.m. to 7 p.m Tuesday – Sunday. The First Section of Chapultepec Park is closed on Mondays for maintenance.

To arrive at the proper (and most impressive) entrance to Chapultepec Park, direct your Uber to drop you off in front of the Estela de Luz monument. If you prefer to take the Metro you can take it to Chapultepec Station. From the station’s exit, head north up to Lion’s gate entrance.

The History of Chapultepec Park

Chapultepec Park is situated around Chapultepec Hill, the sacred heart of the city. The Toltecs named the hill “Chapultepec” around the 12 century. The word “Chapultepec” means at the grasshopper hill in the native Nahuatl language of the Toltecs. There is some disagreement among historians whether the name comes from the plethora of grasshoppers that lived in the area or if it was due to the shape of the hill looking like the silhouette of a grasshopper.

At the top of the hill, the Toltecs placed their sacred altar. We know this as there have been remains of this alter excavated at the hill’s summit. The hillside served as a defensive advantage, as it stood looking out of the shores of Lake Texcoco. Despite this advantage, it wouldn’t be along before the Toltecs were overcome.

When the Aztecs conquered the city, they continued to use the hill as a spiritual place. They saw it as a place of power, and it was here that they buried the ashes of their rulers. For this reason, when visiting the park and the palace, we should act very respectfully. Remember you are walking over what was an Aztec graveyard. The various rulers of Mexico City would carve their images onto the eastern side of Chapultepec hill. Thinking this would preserve their memories in stone forever.

The area around the Chapultepec hill was plentiful with freshwater. Monarch Nezahualcoyotl utilized this access to build the first aqueduct that helped direct this freshwater into the city. Nezahualcoyotl loved nature and felt at peace here. He was the first to build a summer palace in the area in 1428. Here he could escape the busy city. Like today, the rich and powerful love escaping countryside mansions.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Rupal K (@rupal.kakkad)

Moctezuma II

By the 15th century, the forest was primarily used as a retreat for various Aztec rulers. We have Moctezuma II to thank for so many of the amazing aspects of this park that still exist today. The plentiful trees, plants and waterways around the park were all installed under his watchful eye. Many of the original cypress trees can still be seen today. These are also called “ahuehuete” trees and they mark the ancient outlines of the park. Moctezuma was also the first to build a zoo and arboretum just near the foot of the hill.

One of the most unique aspects of the park you can still visit today is Moctezuma’s Baths. The waters from the aqueducts were channelled into these reservoirs where locals could bathe. Aztecs were a very clean society, with most people bathing at least once a day! There were also several “temazcales” on-site. There were pre-Hispanic saunas and used for ritual cleansing.

Internet Archive, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Spanish Invasion

Sadly this period of peace for the Aztecs couldn’t last forever. Here in the forest, the Aztec’s took their last stand against the Spanish in 1521. It was the last stand the Aztec had to save themselves from the eventual conquest. After the land was stolen by the Spanish, Chapultepec Hill and the land around it was given by Cortez over to the Franciscans. The religious order built a temple on the hill. Their attempt to convert the locals over to Christianity by appropriating the Aztec holy site. During this time, the rocks where the Aztec rulers carved their image were destroyed by the Franscian’s. But one stone managed to survive. It depicts Montezuma II’s feathered headdress carrying an omechicahuaztli (a sceptre for rain rituals) in his hand.

Unknown; published by en:Kurz and Allison, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Developement of Chapultapec Castle

Chapultepec remained in the hands of the Franciscans for another few hundred years. But in 1785, the church was demolished to make room for a residence for the colonial rulers. This would become Chapultepec Castle. The forest around the castle was to be used as a hunting ground and place for recreation for the upper classes. It was abruptly walled off from the general public. This was such a loss for the people as the sanctuary has been such a meaningful place for hundreds of years.

Even after the Mexican War of Independence, the castle was used as the official residence for the head of state. But happily, the park was opened to the public once more. During the Mexican-American War of 1846, Chapultepec Castle was used as a military academy. It was also used as a political prison. In 1847 it would be the site of another great battle between the Mexican and U.S. troops. During the Second Mexican Empire, the palace transferred hands once. It was given over to the new governor of the city, Maximilian of Habsburg. He transformed it into a truly impressive imperial palace.

Museo Soumaya, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Porfirio Díaz Era

Under the rule of the Porfiriato government, the city began to undergo a huge transformation. Porfirio Díaz was obsessed with the idea of turning Mexico City into a European paradise. One of the aspects of his plan involved overhauling the landscape design of the city. He employed José Yves Limantour, Secretary of the Treasury, to revamp the forests around Chapultepec Castle. They installed paved avenues and roads, plazas, fountains, auditoriums and monuments. It was also during this time that large artificial lakes were built.

20th Century

The castle remained in the hands of the government, serving as the presidential residence until 1940. Los Pinos was built at the southwest edge of the park. This new “White House-inspired” neo-classical structure would serve as the new presidential residence and office. Chapultepec Castle was converted into a museum housing relics of the Maximilian era. As well as pieces of history from Mexico’s struggle for independence.

In the 1960s, the park saw its most tremendous modern expansion and construction. The park’s second section was created, and the Pantheon of Dolores was built. The large cemetery a final resting place for the illustrious dead of Mexico’s past. Various modern museums were commissioned. These institutions were a place to show to the locals and the world the cultural heritage of Mexico City. This included the National Museum of Anthropology, the National Gallery of History, the Caracol Museum, and the National Auditorium. There are nine different museums in total located inside the walls of Chapultepec Park.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by – – – – – (@narnoon)

Creation of the 3rd Section

The third and final section of the park was created in 1974. The area is primarily a dense forest, that has been declared a Protected Natural Area. In order to combat the growing levels of air pollution, the government developed these protected zones to plant new trees which filter the air. Today, Chapultapec is known as one of the sets of “lungs” which help Mexico City breathe by replenishing oxygen to the city. This part of the park is also a refuge for migratory birds. During the winter, hidden in the trees are birds from Canada the U.S., feeling the cold. But there is also plenty of local wildlife like Mexico’s Cooper hawk, Harris’s hawk, wild ducks, and Vireos, Warblers and Kingfishers.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Paisajeros MX (@paisajeros.mx)

Map of Walking Tour

Puerta de Leones

The intricately patterned black iron gates welcome you into Chapultepec Park. But guarding the entrance on either side are these two gigantic lions. This is the great Puerta de Leones or Lion’s Gate of Chapultepec Park. The colossal bronze beasts stand atop granite pedestals, their heads pointing out towards the Paseo de la Reforma. Their eyes keenly open, as if on the lookout for any incoming enemies.

The sculptures were created by French artist Garden and installed here in 1921. They have been greeting friendly visitors ever since. During the big Mexican holidays like Día de Muertos, this gate is often cheerfully decorated with beautiful paper flowers.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Anwar Bello (@anwar9109)

Monument to the Ninos Heroes

Walking through the gates, continue down Avenue Juventud Heroica. The Avenue crosses over the busy Centro Bicentenario highway that you can hear roaring underfoot. At the end of the overpass, you can see the towering columns of the Monument to the Ninos Heroes. As mentioned earlier, Chapultapec Park was the site of the great Mexican American battle of 1847. After being overtaken by the U.S. Army, various cadets who had been defending the palace fled to the inner walls of the castle. Cornered with nowhere to go, six Mexican cadets jumped onto the cliff below. They would rather have died by their own will than be captured or killed by the enemy. Today each one of these six men are honoured within this incredible monument.

The enormous structure was designed by architect Enrique Aragón and sculptor Ernesto Tamariz. Each of the towering six columns features a niche at the base of the pillar. Inside is an urn that contains their ashes. The white columns are capped with the image of the Mexican golden eagle, whose wings reach towards the sky. While the cadets the eagle depicts their divine flight into heaven.

In the centre of the six columns is a large sculpture called the “Altar a la Patria” or Altar to the Homeland. The sculpture depicts a Mexican woman holding the lifeless body of a soldier in one arm. Beside her other arm stands a soldier. He stands tall, seemingly guarding her and the homeland. In honour of those who died guarding her before him.

Petrogrifo de Moctezuma

You’ll find a series of pathways that swirl around the park just beyond the main entrance. Make your way to the enclosure that surrounds the base of the hill. Beyond the fence is a seemingly innocuous rock. This is the Petrogrifo de Moctezuma. These petroglyphs set into the hill’s eastern slope have a series of carvings that you can make out as you look closer. These are the last remaining carvings from the pre-Hispanic rulers. In the top right, you can see the xiuhhuitzolli of Moctezuma II. The xiuhhuitzolli is the turquoise headdress worn by Aztec Mexican royals. The headdress is usually covered in bright blueish-green feathers to symbolize the god Huitzilopochtli. Huitzilopochtli was the god of the sun and the god war. His named means “hummingbird,” which is why the colourful feathers are used in his image.

Ahuehuete “El Sargento”

Continuing around the edge of the hillside, walk along the pathways surrounding the hill. Around the corner is a giant stone memorial, but blocking your initial view of the memorial is a hulking tree trunk. Do not just walk by but take a moment to study the dried-out piece of wood. This is one of the famed Ahuehuete (cypress) trees found inside the park. But this one is extra special. It is called “El Sargento,” as it was planted by Nezahualcoyotl in 1460 on the orders of emperor Moctezuma.

The tree managed to survive for over 500 years, growing up to 40 meters in height. But sadly, it died in 1969. Although these trees are able to live for generations the lack of freshwater, as the ground dried up due to pollution, brought an end to this great tree. A devastating blow to the people of Mexico City. The city created a monument out of the trunk, to preserve what remained for generations to come. It is still a very sacred space for visitors today. And also a warning about pollution and the destruction it can bring.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Roberto Ornelas Salas (@ornlas_s)

Memorial Squadron 201

The enormous stone memorial behind the tree is dedicated to the Mexican 201st Fighter Squadron. This aerial army was initially formed when Mexico came to the aid of the Allies during World War II. During their initial training in Texas, they were nicknamed the “Aztec Eagles,” a name they wore with pride. Despite the historical conflict between Mexico and the USA, they managed to come together in this monumental moment in time. Together, they were able to defeat Japanese troops invading the Philippines. Their Squadron was given credit for keeping 30,000 Japanese troops out of action and destroying enemy-held buildings, vehicles, anti-aircraft guns, and the all-important ammunition depots. The memorial was built to remember the fallen soldiers of the wars as well as the survivors of the military expedition to the Philippines.

Cincalco Cavern

To the left of the memorial is a little path that wraps around the back. Behind here is where you’ll find a little hidden zen garden called the Audiorama. But historically, this area has been one of the most sacred spaces in Mexico City for generations. During the pre-Hispanic period, this place was the entrance to the Cincalco Cavern. The Aztecs believed that these caves were portals between the living and the dead. It was here, many believed, that Tláloc, the god of water, lived.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Virro & Lola (@virroylola)

In 1162, Huémac, the last Toltec governor, committed suicide after his people were defeated and his city fell. He felt he had failed them and it was here he wished to pass on, submit himself to the will of the gods. Perhaps with his sacrifice, his people would be spared. In modern times, the cave has been sealed off for security reasons. But you can still see the arched entrance that once led inside the hill. The garden is surrounded by an array of wild plants, fruit trees, small rose bushes, and calla lilies.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Ivan Gutiérrez (@ivangutierrezl)

Audiorama

In the 1970s, the city decided to revamp the space as a modernized “sacred space” for the residents. It was designed as an outdoor library to read. A series of colourful benches spread out throughout the enclosure provided comfort under the trees. But to enhance the experience, music is pipped into the forest throughout the day through a series of little hidden speakers.

There are different types of music played on different days of the week. On Tuesdays, you get new age, traditional Mexican rhythms on Wednesdays, melodies from Spain, Greece or Brazil on Thursdays, jazz on Fridays, chill out for Saturdays and classical music on Sundays. The Audiorama is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 4 pm. Please respect the silence requested upon entering this part of the park as this is a place for rest and relaxation.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Pita Socra (@arcos407)

Chapultepec Castle Hill

Head back the way you came and make your way to the ramp leading to Chapultapec Castle.

Hours and Admission

You need to buy your admission tickets at the booth at the bottom of the hill. Be sure to do this BEFORE you head up the ramp, which leads to the castle. There is nowhere at the top of the hill to buy tickets. The walk is fairly long and steep, and on a hot day, it would be torturous to have to head all the way back down. We saw dozens of people that had this problem and their dejected faces were so sad. So be sure you don’t make this same mistake. The line for the tickets moves very quickly but if you plan on visiting at the absolute peak of the season you should arrive early to beat the crowds.

Hours: 9 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Sunday. Closed on Mondays.
Admission: 85 pesos (US$4) per person. Tickets are free for children under 13 and seniors over 60 years old. Teachers and students with valid credentials and people with disabilities also can get in free.
Be sure to bring some cash as often the machines are often down and tickets are cash only.

After purchasing your ticket, you need to climb the winding hill that encircles the palace. While the pathway is mostly smooth, for anyone with mobility issues, the incline can be tiring. The walk is especially difficult due to the high elevation in Mexico City. It can be slightly harder to catch your breath. Take it slow; there’s no need to rush. In fact, the walk up the hill provides some incredible views across the park and the city. Make sure you drink plenty of water. Even on what might feel like a cooler day, you still can get dehydrated just from the elevation.

Museo del Caracol

Near the top of the ramp, before arriving at the Castle, you’ll approach the Museo del Caracol. A ‘Caracol’ is a snail, as the museum’s exterior is designed to replicate the shape of a sea snail. Inside, to view the exhibitions within, you descend down a spiral staircase, also mirroring the swirl of a snail’s shell. The windows that line the edge of the staircase are filled with dioramas. Each one tells a story relating to the history of Mexico City. From the end of the viceroyalty to the Constitution of 1917.

As the admission is only 80 pesos (US$4), I think it’s well worth a quick look through. There is something about dioramas that really helps bring the country’s history alive. Even if you can’t understand the narration, the scenes are so expressive that you can really get a sense of what’s happening. I think some people might think the museum is a bit cheap and cheesy but I really enjoy all those dollhouse-like detailed scenes.

Hours: 9 am to 4 pm Tuesday to Sunday
Admission: $80 pesos per person. Tickets are free for children under 13 and seniors over 60 years old. Teachers and students with valid credentials and people with disabilities also can get in free.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by eL B (@8tkptl)

Chapultepec Castle

The castle itself is divided into two sections; the Museum of Anthropology on the left side and the Palace (or Alcazar) interiors on the right. The Museum of Anthropology is housed inside the former Military College. The collection is a wonderful way to physically see the history of Mexico City, from the time of the conquest until the 20th century, come alive in front of you. Clothing, paintings, objects and elements of everyday life are all on display. My favourite part of this section of the castle has to be their collection of murals. The expressive Mexican murals bring historical events into three dimensions despite being painted on a two-dimensional surface.

The Alcázar portion of the building is where you’ll find various rooms inside the palace still decored as they could have been in the 19th century. During this period the castle was occupied by emperors Maximiliano and Carlota and thereafter President Porfirio Díaz and his wife Carmen Romero Rubio. It is incredible to see how the spaces change as the hands of ownership change. For a complete guide of the Castle Museum check out our full tour here.

Street Food

After finishing up at the castle, walk back the hill towards Avenue H. Colegio Militar. This road will weave its way through the forest towards the best lookout point across Chapultepec Lake. This avenue is absolutely packed with street vendors! Although there is a larger “food court” beside the lake, I would avoid this area. Perhaps since they have more permanent booths, the food can be left inside and therefore isn’t of the highest quality. But the food vendors that flank the roadways are really delicious. So stick with them! These might not be as filling as the meals on offer in the food court area, but you’re better off with a safe bet.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Joan (@joanii)

Guide to Street Snacks

Below are a few of my favourite street snacks so you can keep your eyes out for these reliably delicious traditional treats.

Chicharron: deep-fried pigskin doused in chilli sauce and freshly squeezed lime juice. Duritos: Duritos (not to be mixed up with Doritos) are a wheat-based pinwheel-shaped snack topped with hot sauce and lime.
Dorilocos: If you’re looking for something more like a meal, find your way to the Dorilocos vendor. This dish is made by taking a bag of Doritos and slicing it down the long edge, so it opens like a bowl. Then they top it with Mexican radish, shredded cucumber and carrot and Japanese peanuts. Then, of course, it’s topped with lime juice and hot sauce on top.
Papas: freshly made potato chips served with hot sauce and lime.

Paletas: frozen fruit bars made with fresh and natural ingredients. They are made with either milk or fruit juice base. My favourite has got to the mango and chilli!
Tamarind Candies: Look for brands like Tama-Roco, Pulparindo or Pelón Pelo Rico. There is also Salsaghetti which is watermelon candy in the shape of spaghetti noodles covered with tamarind sauce.
La Molienda: coconut candy bar in the colour of the Mexican flag.
Vero Mango: mango-flavoured candy covered in chile powder.
Slaps Lollipop: Mexican fruit roll-ups that taste just like a jolly rancher!
Mazapanes de la Rosa: A peanut-based sweet
Pepitoria: crunchie wafers filled with honey or caramel, and decorated with pumpkin seeds.

El Lago de Chapultepec

After all those snacks, a great way to burn off some calories is with a pedal around El Lago de Chapultepec. This man-made lake is one of the most picturesque places to take a little blue paddle boat and take in the scenery. The views from the middle of the lake are fantastic and even look out at the Colonia Polanco. The boats cost 60 pesos/hour (around the U.S. $3). Normally, such a touristy activity would price gouge visitors but not here in the park. The locals enjoy a ride as much as the tourists, so prices are kept low to ensure everyone can enjoy a day out!

The Casa del Lago

While paddling on the Lake, you have a fantastic view of the Casa del Lago, the Chapultapec Lake House. The house was built in the 1900s as President Porfirio Diaz‘s summer mansion. Today it serves as the UNAM (Mexico’s National Autonomous University) Chapultapec cultural center.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by MARJORIE ZIEN (@marjfz)

Librería Porrúa

If you don’t feel like grabbing a bite to eat from the street vendors, you can head up to the Librería Porrúa. This charming bookstore library is located just on the edge of Chapultepec Park. In addition to a wonderful selection of books, there is a coffee shop inside. You’ll find here a super delicious selection of coffee, snacks, paninis, and more. Plus if it’s a really hot day, its a lovely spot to come and cool off.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Booktubersita (@booktubersita)

Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec

From here, lets pop into the Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec. While the roped off garden beds and greenhouse might feel modern, these nurseys have been here since the days of Moctezuma. When the Spanish first arrived in Mexico they were amazed by these royal gardens they saw. So much so that they would write home about the incredible plants they found.

The Aztecs had some of the most diverse and exotic gardens. They were filled with medicinal plants for healing wounds. Herbs for cooking as well as fragrant flowers just there for their beauty.

The Botanical gardens we find here today were inaugurated in 2006 over a 5-hectare protected area. Covering the land area are over 400 different plants and trees. The garden is divided into different themes based on the different kind of plants. There are the pollinators, the edible plants, the succulents and the wetland plants. Plus 14 different species of wild dahlias, cacti and agave.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by FYJA (@fyjamx)

Orquideario Bosque de Chapultepec

Towards the back of the Botanical Garden you’ll find the glimmering stained glass rooftop that leads you inside the Orquideario Bosque de Chapultepec. This 500-square-meter greenhouse was built in the 1940s and contains stunning examples of Mexican art deco design. The huge barrel domed ceiling runs the entire length of the greenhouse.

The vibrant Aztec inspired stained glass design casting beautiful rainbows of light down on the flower and ferms below. Inside the humid glasshouse, you can find their precious collection of orchid. s is maintained.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Alberth Bárcenas (@alberth_barq)

Botanical Garden Open: 9 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday | Orchid Garden Open: 9 am to 3 pm

Museo Nacional de Antropología

For the rest of the afternoon, there are a few different museums that you can explore. If you’ve never been to Mexico, let alone Mexico City before, the Museo Nacional de Antropología is a wonderful place to learn more about the country’s history. The museum contains significant archaeological and anthropological artifacts from Mexico’s pre-Columbian heritage. It is considered a national treasure and a symbol of Mexico’s identity.

Stone of the Sun

One of the most significant pieces of the collection is the Stone of the Sun or the Aztec calendar stone. This sizeable circular stone carving weighs 24,590 kg and is over 141 inches wide! It dates back to approximate the beginning of the 16th century. The Stone of the Sun was so precious to the people of Tenochtitlan that after the Spanish invaded, they buried the stone under the Zocalo. In the hopes that hiding it there would keep it safe.

The Stone was only discovered in 1790 when repairs were required under the new Mexico City Cathedral. After the discovery, the church actually mounted the stone on the building’s exterior. There it remained for almost a hundred years. Perhaps as a way to convince unconverted Mexicans over to the Christianity. Finally, in 1885, it was moved to the new Archaeological Museum inside the El Chopo Musuem in Colonia Santa María la Ribera. It remained there until the opening of this museum.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Album de Viagens (@viagens_do_ppgfg)

Architecture of Museo Nacional de Antropología

If you only see the design of the building from the front facade you might think the building is rather simple and austere. The white bricked facade is devoid of any decoration save for the central medallion featuring a stone carving of the eagle of Mexico City with a serpent in its mouth. But to see the real architectural treasure you need to head inside towards the back courtyard. The building was designed in 1964 by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano, and Rafael Mijares Alcérreca. The courtyard features a huge concrete umbrella supported by a single slender pillar (known as “el paraguas,” Spanish for “the umbrella”). Water pours down from the umbrella into the vast square pond below. It’s one of the most impressive structures I’ve ever seen and the sound of the rain falling is hypnostizing.

Open: 10 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Saturday, Closed Mondays
Admission: Permanent exhibition $85 pesos (US $4)
To use a video camera, you must get a permit and pay a fee of $45 pesos.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Karla Museos | CDMX (@karlamuseos)

Museo de Arte Moderno

Right beside the Botanical Gardens is the Museo de Arte Moderno. The Museum of Modern art contains the largest collections of Mexican art from the 20th century. The museum was built in 1963 under the guise of architect and designer Pedro Ramírez Vázquez and Rafael Mijares. Even without all the artwork, this museum is a wonder to explore.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Omar Trejo (@omar.trak)

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by CDMX Secreta (@cdmxsecreta)

It’s collection features work from José Chávez Morado, David Alfaro Siqueiros, José Clemente Orozco and Remedios Varo. But most famously, it owns a few precious paintings by Frida Kahlo. Frida Kahlo produced a relatively small oeuvre, and getting to see one of her paintings in real life is an exceptional experience. Her surrealist self-portrait ‘Las dos Fridas‘ is one of her most impactful pieces. This piece was painted shortly after her divorce from fellow Mexican artist Diego Rivera. It was a means for her to process the depression and loneliness she experience after the divorce.

Open: 11 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Saturday, Closed Mondays
Admission: $65 pesos (US $3)

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Jennifer Drolet (@jdrolet)

Zoológico de Chapultepec

If you’re travelling with children, instead of a museum, a visit to the Zoológico de Chapultepec is a great alternative. While adults might give it a miss (as there aren’t really any uniquely “Mexico-City” aspects to the zoo) it’s always a hit with kids. Plus, admission is free for everyone! This is a huge bonus since activities with kids can get really expensive. The only part of the zoo that requires an entry fee is the butterfly house (US$3.50). There are many classic zoo animals to see here. Everything from lions, rhinos, monkeys, tigers, and, most famously, their great Chinese Panda .

But if you’re going to visit, my best advice is to be sure to see the Xoloitzcuintle. The Xoloitzcuintle is a hairless dog native to Mexico. The name ‘Xoloitzcuintle‘ is from the Nahuatl languagee and is derived from the word ‘Xolotl’ who was the god of fire and lightning. ‘Itzcuīntli‘ was the Nahuatl word for “dog,” for it basically translates to “God’s dog.”

Open: 9 am to 4:30 pm Tuesday to Sunday
Admission is free

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Magnolia (@selfishmack)

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Coral Martínez (@corimrtz)

La Casa de la Bici Bosque de Chapultepec

If museums aren’t your thing, a wonderful way to explore the rest of the park is by bike. The park’s winding back routes and pathways are sprawling! To see it all, the best way is to hop on a bike. You can pick up a rental bike from the central Casa de la Bici in the southwest corner of the park. This place rents out bikes for 70 pesos per hour (the U.S. $3.30) or 100 pesos (the U.S. $4.80) for two hours. You are required to leave a valid photo I.D. with them to ensure you return with the bike. Don’t leave anything important like your passport, but a driver’s licence or even a health card will be OK. Most of the bikes have adorable white baskets on the front. Perfect for storing your treats or backpacks so you can bike around unimpeded.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Arpit Tank (@arpittank)

Fuente del Quijote

Whether you’re cruising around on the bike or just walking on foot, here are a few other stops you might want to make around the park. Just north of the bike rental house is the Fuente del Quijote. A ‘Fuente‘ is the Spanish word for fountain. The ‘Fountain of Don Quixote‘ dates back to 1921 and it is one of the most incredible fountains in the entire park. The rather small central fountain with four central mermaids is surrounded by four stone benches covered in handpainted tiles. Each of the hundreds of tiles features detailed images from the book Don Quixote de la Mancha by Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra. By looking at each one you could easily piece together the entire story.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Fundación INTERprotección (@fundacioninter)

Restoration of the Fountain

Sadly, in 2015 the fountain was severely vandalized. Two statues of famous painter Salvador Dalí and Mexican master Diego Rivera were both stolen, never to be seen since. Many of the tiles were also taken or partially destroyed. The figures actually have a history of thievery. They were first made by Spanish sculptor Miguel Alessio Robles by stolen in 1974. So they were replaced by another set made by José María Fernández Urbina. Unfortunately, these would be sentenced to the same fate.

But thanks to public donations, the entire fountain is on its way to looking brand new once more! You can even make a donation yourself! A great way to support the park and preserve it for generations to come. Donations can be as little as 200 pesos (US$10), and it really goes a long way ! While you can’t entre the enclosure while restoring are underway, you can peek inside to get a sneak peek at once was. Plus you can even see the artists at work throughout the week, hard at work hand painting tiles.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Fideicomiso Probosque (@prochapultepec)

Poets’ Causeway

Off to the east from the Fuente del Quijote is the Calzada De la Poetas or Poets’ Causeway. Along this stretch of the pathway are a series of busts of famous poets from the 19th and 20th centuries. The statues include Doña Inés de Asbaje y Ramírez de Santillana, better known as Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz OSH. Doña Inés was a Mexican writer, philosopher, composer and poet of the Baroque period. And to top it all off she was even a Hieronymite nun. Salvador Díaz Mirón was a Mexican poet known for his passionate, romantic style, influenced by Lord Byron and Victor Hugo. Manuel José Othón was a Mexican poet, playwright, and politician. One of his most famous works is Idilio Salvaje, considered one of the most representative poems of Mexico. You can read a part of this poem on the small plaque beside his bust.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by David Amigon (@poesia750)

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Luciana A. Castro Sánchez (@lukitas28)

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Oli Mendoza (@_olimendoza_)

Carrusel De Chapultepec

Through the forest, to the west of the park, is the hidden away Carrusel De Chapultepec. Although this is meant for kids, I’m a sucker for a beautiful carousel. And this one is no exception. The amazing double-decker Carrusel De Chapultepec is a relatively new addition to the park. It was moved here in 2018 from its original location in Alameda Central. But its history is much older. Before its life in Mexico City, the carousel was once in Chicago but first made in Venice! Look up along the ceiling and roof that encircles the carousel. There, you can see intricately painted vignettes featuring scenes from life in Venice. An automatic piano plays music as the carousel spins, with over 1,800 spotlights twinkling as it turns round and round.

Open: Tuesday to Sunday.
Admission: $18 pesos (less than US$1) to ride. Adults can sit in the wooden benches on the first level.

Fuente de las Ranas

At the intersection of Avenue H. Colegio Militar and Calz. Mahatma Gandhi is the Fuente de las Ranas. The Fuente de las Ranas or Fountain of the Frogs is an exact replica of a fountain of the same name in Seville. When Spanish lawyer Miguel Alessio Robles was named the Mexican minister in 1921, he ordered the fountain to be made. He wanted to bring to Mexico City a piece of his home country.

The fountain was first installed at the park entrance but has since been moved towards the back of the park. The fountain is covered in beautiful Sevillian tiles. Surrounding the outer edge is a series of eight rotund golden painted frogs. Their open mouths spraying water towards the bronze duck and tortoise who sit in the centre of the fountain. The duck sits atop the turquoise with its mouth pointing upwards, shooting water from its mouth into the air. It’s such a playful fountain and a wonderful addition to the park. It’s these little gems that make wandering the pathways so endearing.

Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotlht

Opposite the Fuente de las Ranas is the entrance to best fountain of them all; the Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotl. Nezahualcóyotl is a name we’ve heard before as his impact in the history book, as well as in Chapultepec park was immense! Nezahualcóyotl was the monarch of the city-state of Texcoco in ancient Mexico from 1429 to 1472. He was known as a great poet in addition to a fantastic scholar and wonderful architect. His name means the “fasting coyote,” as fasting was considered a form of sacrifice. Some monarchs would do to attempt to appease the gods and aid their people. If you look for one of the old Mexican 100 peso bill you can see his face. Along with his portrait is one of his most cherished poems. It goes;

I love the song of the mockingbird,
Bird of four hundred voices,
I love the colour of the jadestone,
And the intoxicating scent of flowers,
But more than all, I love my brother, man.
Nezahualcóyotl

Nezahualcóyotl’s Dam

The Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotl is by far the largest of all the fountains in the park. The fountain begins to emerge from the edge of the forest, and covers 1,250 square meters. Flowing like a vein up to the central square and domineering statue at the end of the wall-like fountain. It was made by sculptor Luis Ortiz Monasterio in 1956. The shape of the fountain was inspired by Nezahualcóyotl’s Dam. Nezahualcóyotl was instructed by Moctezuma I to construct a dam over 16 km long. The dam was to be used to defend against the flood waters which plagued the ancient Tenochtitlan (Mexico city). Nezahualcóyotl was also responsible for the aqueducts in Chapultepec forest that supplied Tenochtitlan with safe drinking water. This work earned him the reputation of the best architect in the Americas.

Monasterio’s fountain-like dam was inspired by the pre-hispanic architectural styles of the 15th century. Entering this area, you are greeted by a fantastic carving of a giant coyote. The coyote has his mouth open wide, a menacing smile, with water gushing forth. Water also flows out of the hundreds of carved medallions along the top of the wall. Once one carved from black stone from Xaltocan.

Statue and Life Reliefs of Nezahualcóyotl

Along the facade of the fountain you’ll find eight large bas reliefs. Each one depicts a scene from the life of Nezahualcóyotl. The first relief shows Nezahualcóyotl’s birth, the death of his father, his battles for the territory, the arrival of water to Chapultepec and his death in 1472.

The sculpture in the centre of the square is of Nezahualcóyotl himself, standing nine meters tall. Watching over his beloved park forever. Behind him is a wall made of volcanic stones with three symbols emblazoned up the facade. Each of the symbols refers to the three tribes of indigenous peoples that inhabited the Valley of Mexico; the Texcoco, Tenochitlán and Tlacopan. It is a wonderful place to end the tour, to remember that this space was one a sacred site for the indigenous peoples and we are lucky to still be able to enjoy this green oasis today.

Chapultepec Park is truly a must-visit if you’re in Mexico City. It’s not only the perfect place to enjoy a peaceful day out, but also where you can learn a lot about Mexican culture and history. Make the effort to carve out the time to really appreciate the beauty of this sprawling natural sanctum.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Ultimate Guide to Chapultepec Park: Historical and Cultural Heart of Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

A Complete Guided Tour of Chapultepec Castle, Mexico City

The Creative Adventurer — Thu, 16 Jan 2020 14:13:27 +0000

From the minute I arrived in Mexico City I was enchanted by the image of this neo-classical castle sitting on the top of Chapultepec Hill. The rows and rows of windows like eyes looking over the city. The Castillo de Chapultepec or Chapultepec Castle is still one of the most visited landmarks in Mexico City. Its architecture is a stark contrast to the skyline of the modern metropolis. But together, this amalgamation of the past and the present, is exactly what makes Mexico City so exciting to visit.

Romeo + Juliet in Mexico City

When I was first looking up information on Chapultepec Castle I almost dropped my phone when I read it was featured in Baz Lurhman‘s 1996 film ‘Romeo + Juliet‘! It was used in the film as the site for Juliet Capulet’s mansion. In fact, much of the introduction of the film was shot in Mexico City. The aerial shot of ‘Verona’ is located just north of here in the Zona Rosa. And the unforgettable shot of the statue of Christ was shot along the Paseo de la Reforma. They simply removed the Ángel de la Independencia monument and digitally replaced it with a statue of Jesus.

Even various hotel and bank exteriors along Paseo de la Reforma were used to stand in for the Capulet and Montague headquarters. As a 90s kid, who grew up on that movie this was the discovery of a lifetime. This only made me more delighted to get to see it in person!

Let me say first off, I LOVED exploring the castle. But a lot of the detailed information was difficult to understand as most of the signage was in Spanish. I’m someone who loves to know everything about history and I don’t just travel places for the aesthetics alone. So I whipped up this post, full of my own research, to help others guide their way through the castle.

How to Get there

The castle is situated at the top of Chapultepec Hill, just past the entrance of Chapultepec Park. When you look at GoogleMaps, it’s hard to make out any of the elevations around the area. That means, if you don’t enter through the official front gates, it’s super easy to get lost.

Uber

The best place for an Uber to drop you off point is in front of the Estela de Luz monument. From here, it’s just a short walk towards the castle entrance. There are various signs along the way to help you find your way.

Metro

If you’re arriving via the metro, take the subway to Chapultepec Station on Line 1. Exit towards the Monument to the Niños Heroes, where you’ll find the ramp which leads towards the museum.

Hours and Admission

Accessibility

Wheelchair Access

If you have a mobility aid or wheelchair, the museum has ramps and accessible spaces. They also offer special tours for children and adults with disabilities. Just email difusion.mnh@inah.gob.mx for more information. They also provide loaner wheelchairs if you feel like you might require one for this visit. You can view their accessibility plan for the palace here. There is access to an elevator at the bottom of the hill for people who require it. So you don’t need to worry about having to go up the long winding pathway. Don’t hesitate to ask any other staff members about additional accessibility inquiries.

Is there Food Inside Castle?

NO! One of the biggest surprises to me was that not only was there no food or drinks available inside the castle, but you also weren’t even allowed to bring anything with you either. Not even water! Bugs are apparently a big problem at the castle. So they do everything they can to prevent critters from getting in by banning food and drink inside the castle. I had planned my day around having lunch at the palace, so I was in for a real unfortunate surprise when I arrived to find that there was no cafe. I was starving by the time we left and ran to the nearest street food vendor at the bottom of the hill! Don’t be like us, and be sure to come on a full stomach! Drink the rest of your water before you enter the gates, or they will make you throw it away.

History of Chapultepec Castle

The word ‘Chapultepec‘ comes from the old Nahuatl word which means at grasshopper’s hill. Throughout the castle, you’ll find many different images of grasshoppers paying tribute to the castle’s Aztec name. In the Aztec period, this hilltop was considered sacred. Archeological digs around the area have uncovered ceramics and objects relating to sacred burials. Many of the Aztec rulers were placed to rest here on the hill.

Chapultepec hill was considered scared both due to its life-giving waterways and being a place of protection. It was a defensive location as it looked out over Lake Texcoco. Lake of Texcoco is no longer here as the waters were drained by the Spanish upon their invasion in the 16th century.

Moctezuma II ordered that a palace be built under his name atop the hill. It was the first “royal” summer palace to be built here and a tradition that would continue into post-colonial times. Netzahualcoyotl, one of the monarchs under Moctezuma, oversaw the construction of this palace and also planted the cypress trees. Cypress trees were very sacred to the Aztecs, and the grove he built is still there today.

The Sacred Water

As you walk up the hill towards the castle, you’ll pass by a large pond carved into the side of the hilltop. This is to commemorate the springs which once appeared all around Chapultapec castle. It was said that Moctezuma fished in these springs. To ensure the plentifulness of the fish, Moctezuma would appease the water god Tlaloc by burying treasure around the waterways. To this day, no treasure has ever been found. However, treasure hunters still love to explore the area in hopes of discovering ancient riches.

In addition to fishing, these springs were also thought to purify any of those who would drink from them. When the Spanish invaded, they demolished all the natural springs and drained the surrounding lakes. Thinking only of expansion and not of the damage they were doing to their natural resources. The sacred water was gone and many people call diarrhea some tourists get from drinking this piped-in water “Moctezuma’s Revenge.”

Post-Colonial History

Chapultepec Castle, as we see it today, was initially built as the summer home for the Viceroys of Mexico. The term “Viceroy” comes from the French word “roi,” meaning king. As such, these men were the Vice-Kings of Mexico. The role came into being after the invasion of the Spanish. Viceroys were sent to rule the lands and control the armies. In 1530 the emperor Carlos Quinto decreed that the forest of Chapultepec was now the property of the City of Mexico. The Viceroys and their court would use the park as their playground for hunting and fishing. But the new court needed a palace to rest their heads.

Chapultepec Military History

Construction on the new palace started in 1725 under the watchful eye of Viceroy Bernardo de Gálvez. Before he could see the interiors finished, the castle was abandoned during the Mexican War of Independence in 1810. For years it remained dormant until it was purchased by the Military Academy in 1833. The academy transformed the palace into a military college. During this time, a few notable architectural additions were made. The most noticeable of which is the watchtower, which pops its head up above the rest of the building. Cadets from the college would spend their time here doing shooting exercises and military activities. It’s wonderful to imagine how these cadets would have felt studying in such an important place. Defending the city as the Aztecs before them would have.

On September 13, 1847, the Americans attacked Mexico City. The military students took arms and tried valiantly to protect their college from the onslaught. Many of these young men died trying to defend the academy. Eventually, the castle was taken by the United States army. But this would not be the end of the story for the Mexican military in Chapultepec Castle. In 1847, after growing their numbers, a newly strong Mexican army stormed Chapultepec, winning it back once more.

Emperor Maximilian I

The most notable resident of the palace was Emperor Ferdinand Maximilian I and his consort Empress Carlota. The two lived here from 1864-1867 and despite their short time here, they made a huge impact. Maximilian was from the Habsburg dynasty and put into power by the French leader Napoleon III. Napoleon III invaded Mexico in December 1861 in his attempt to add Mexico to the French empire.

Maximilian and his wife took possession of Chapultapec castle, but when they arrived, they were shocked at what they found. The villa was in ruins. It wasn’t anything like the European palaces they were used to. They spent their first nights here sleeping on a pool table since all the beds were filled with bugs. Almost all the windows had been broken and smashed during the American war. After a sleepless first night in their new home, they went got to work renovating the building.

European Influences

The most impressive architectural features of the castle were built under their watchful eye. Maximilian wanted his palace to have pride of place in the city. He was enamoured with the grand boulevards of Europe, like the Champs-Élysées in Paris. He ordered a grand promenade to be built that would connect the castle entrance to the rest of Mexico City. This would become the grand Paseo de la Reforma. Despite not being a native of Mexico, Maximilian adored the city and called it his home. He was quoted as saying, “In moments of difficulty… nothing had so much power to cheer and strengthen him as the wonderful harmony of this view.”

Only a few years into his position in Mexico City, Maximilian and the French army were run out of the country. Mexico was on the verge of becoming an independent state. The newly elected Mexican president gave Maximilian the chance to flee back to his home country. But Maximilian’s mother told him she would rather see him die with dignity in Mexico rather than come home a coward. So Maximilian and the loyal members of his house were executed by a firing squad in Querétaro. Carlota, Maximilian’s wife, was allowed to return to Europe. However, she was devastated by the grief of losing not only her home but also her husband and died shortly thereafter.

19th Century History

In the 19th century, the castle became the main residence of the President of Mexico, Porfirio Díaz. Diaz lived here from 1877 to 1910. He and his wife were responsible for the elegant French decor of the interior of the palace. Diaz was, surprisingly enough for someone responsible for the rejection of the French empire, obsessed with french style. He loved La Belle Époque and the French Neo-Rococo designs. He brought items from all over Europe to furnish this castle in the middle of Mexico City.

Diaz loved France so much that after a failed coup during the 1910 election, he fled to Paris. He was attempting to escape execution and felt he would be most at home there. He died in Paris, only five years later. The last president to live inside the castle was President Lázaro Cárdenas in 1939. Lázaro decided the castle should not only be a treasure to be admired by those in power. He gave the palace back to the city and the people of Mexico City. Transforming it into the museum we see today.

Guide to Exploring Chapultepec Castle

The building itself is divided into two sections; the Museum of Anthropology (located inside the old military academy) and the royal palace residence. This guide focuses on the palace section but we also have a guided tour of the Museum of Anthropology if you’re interested in that.

NOTE: You cannot simply go in and out of the palace area. The entrance is through the carriage hall, and once you are inside, you need to follow the designated pathway. The exit of the castle residence area is heavily guarded. There is no backtracking. I found this out the hard way. If you leave the residence you cannot just go back in through the back gate. You need to walk through the entire complex all over again.

The Castle Residence Tour – Carriage Hall

The first room you enter is the Carriage Hall. Carriages were the primary mode of transportation to and from the castle during its heyday in the 18th century. This area of the palace was originally not as beautifully decorated. It was more like a storage garage for the carriages when they were not in use. Take notice of the large arched doorway. It was required to be sized to these proportions in order to get the carriages in and out easily.

Today, the carriage hall is decorated with large paintings of the various famous men from the history of Chapultepec Castle. Walk up to each of them to see who you can recognize from the history we just read through. It’s always nice to put a face to the name. From these portraits, I feel like you can learn a little bit more about their personalities.

While the carriages do have a substantial European flair, there are always uniquely Mexican elements that have been added. On the most elaborate carriage in the centre of the room, you can see the Mexican crest painted on the side. Look for the eagle perched on a nopales cactus with a snake in its mouth. This is the emblem of Mexico City.

Introductory Room

Stepping through the doors which lead out of the Carriage Hall, you come into the Introductory Room. The Introductory room was actually once used as the palace’s bowling alley! Originally it was an extension of the room next door; the games room. Once you know this piece of information, the elongated dimensions of the room start to make sense. The walls of the introductory room are covered in art nouveau-style decor. The golden plaster ornamentation is shaped into curvy vegetal forms popular in the 20th century.

Today, the room is used to introduce guests to the people who lived in the palace. And what their lives looked like while they lived inside these walls. Objects in the glass cases along the wall hold jewellery, clothing, medals and coins.

On the wall upon entering, you can see two portraits in circular golden frames. They depict President Benito Juarez and his wife, Margarita Maza. On the opposite wall to these portraits is a glass case holding a fancy, general’s gala jacket inside. It was once worn by Juan Almonte, who served as marshal of the empire in the 1860s. In the case is also a large sword cast in bronze. Atop the hilt of the sword is an eagle, the symbol of the Mexican nation, with its wings spread wide. Always ready for an attack.

Mexico Wreaths

Further down the hall, you come to a wide glass case containing several gold and silver laurel wreaths. There were given to President Benito Juarez in recognition of his efforts in creating an independent Mexican state. Several of these wreaths were once laid on his graves at the anniversary of his birth or his death.

Behind the wreaths is a large painting with the image of the coat of arms of Mexico upon it. Surrounding the eagle are a series of allegorical symbols. She is perched atop the rock with the cactus growing from the stone. A dead snake hangs in her beak. The eagle crest is surrounded by laurel wreaths. Wrapped around the wreaths is a golden necklace of the Royal Order of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Crowning the crest is a headdress with seven feathers. Each one represents one of the seven Nahuatl tribes that formed the Aztec nation that would become Mexico City. They were the Xochimilca, Tlahuica, Acolhua, Tlaxcalteca, Tepaneca, Chalca, and Mexica. On either side of the crown are a pair of golden sceptres and further down a golden set of arrow quivers. The royal coat of arms is surrounded in a ribbon of red, white and green. It displays the motto of the country “religion, independence and union.”

Reading Room Terrace

Ferdinand Maximilian I was a smart young man. Despite being flung far afield from his home in Austria, he tried to make Mexico City his own private oasis. Something Maximilian loved was to read and write outdoors. When rebuilding the palace, he had huge terraces added to the palace. This allowed him ample space to sit outside where he could look out upon the valley below. Here, he would read and write to his heart’s content. Mexico, unlike his birthplace of Austria, had far better weather, and he wanted to enjoy every minute of that.

All of the rooms on the first floor each open up onto the terrace. This benefited the residents in two ways. The first was it allowed for natural air conditioning. But it also provided access from any room inside to the incredible views across the city. Today, the doors that open out to the terrace also give visitors a peak inside.

Games Room

The castle was not just a place for state business. Long days entertaining foreign dignitaries could get pretty dull. It was pretty common to have an elaborate games room built inside these palaces. It would bring some fun back into the lives of these displaced aristocrats. Here they would take part in competitive bowling, cards, chess, badminton and more. The tapestries that adorn the room depict scenes of frivolity. Young noblemen can be seen playing games dressed in the finest fashions of the day.

Smoking Room

Beside the games room is the Smoking room. Deep red velvet damask wallpaper and rich lacquered tables make this room feel so luxurious. Smoking rooms were all the rage in Europe, as tobacco began to be imported from the east. The room is decorated with tall urns, of various sizes. Each one of which would have contained the precious dried tobacco leaves. These were all gifts to the Viceroys, from everywhere from China to Japan and even the Netherlands.

After a long state dinner, the women would retire to the living room, and the men would come here to smoke the finest cigars and tobacco. They could talk politics over a fine glass of liquor. And thanks to the open-air terrace, the room wouldn’t always be thick with smoke. Ebony encrusted furniture, presented by the Chinese ambassadors, makes the entire room feel like you were being transported. Like entering a country miles away.

Dining Room

The dining room, I think, is the finest room on the first floor. The very first thing I noticed when we peered through the doors was the incredible fireplace mantle. The wood carving feature two gorgeous half-naked women called caryatid. They are located on either side holding up the scones flanking the fireplace.

A caryatid is a sculpted female figure serving as architectural support. Taking the place of a column or a pillar. In between the two caryatids, carved on the chimney, are a variety of fruits and vegetables. Each one is representative of Mexico’s diverse agriculture and richness of the country. One can only imagine how romantic it was have looked at twilight. Lit only by these fixtures and hundreds of candles along the table.

It was President Díaz, who commissioned the decoration featured in the room. The fine wooden decorations were all made by the artist Pedro Téllez Toled. Cedar, mahogany, metal and marble are all are used in abundance to create a room that feels as grand in appearance. The host wanted their guests to feel like they were entering the finest European palace, as they walked into the Chapultepec dining room.

The room was designed in the French style of Louis XV and Louis XVI. Louis XV’s style featured curvy, art nouveau elements while Louis XVI featured neoclassical and baroque themes. These tended to focus on mythological elements such as the use of the caryatids. The art nouveau elements can be seen in the floral carved into the wooden cabinets and ceiling tiles. These highlight acanthus leaves, grapes, strawberries, artichokes, apples and pears. The backs of the dining room chairs each feature embroidery of animals such as birds, fish, wolves and lambs.

Butler’s Pantry

Servants were a key part of daily life in the castle. The servants kept things running and in a household as big as this, even their quarters needed to look majestic. Although the basement was their primary residence and workspace, there were a few areas on the top floors dedicated to the staff. One of which was the butler’s pantry. This room contained a small elevator that would be used to bring food up from the basement to the dining room. Along the wall is a beautiful selection of china and glassware from the royal collection. Each piece is highlighted inside a stunningly carved wooden pantry cabinet.

Carlota’s Sitting Room

Carlota Amelia, princess of Belgium, married Emperor Maximilian when she was only 17 years old. But Carlota came from a long family line of kings and queens who knew their place. She understood that to be a sovereign sometimes meant leaving your home country. But not only that, it meant adopting a new country as your homeland. Carlota did exactly this and studied a great deal about Mexican culture before she arrived. She even changed her name from the native Charlotte to Carlota to better fit in in Mexico society.

The Virgin of Guadalupe

In her sitting room, which you can still view today, you can see elements of the Mexican Catholic culture. Carlota was a devote Christian, and since Mexico was a fiercely religious country, she felt immediately comforted by these shared beliefs. Throughout her apartments, you can see how she loved to fill her home with religious iconography. The most beautiful of these pieces in this room is the minature bust of mother Mary, dressed in gold-embroidered fabrics. Above her is a large painting of St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City. But to the left of the image of the Vatican is a small painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe. The Virgin of Guadalupe is often referred to as the Mexican Mother Mary. Always identifiable by her blue cloak behind a radiating blast of sunlight.

Carlota’s Bathroom

Carlota’s bathroom is one of the rooms which has remained almost untouched for a century. In the centre of the room is a giant bathtub made from a single-block marble. One can only imagine it would have been pretty difficult to move such a heavy piece of marble. Perhaps this was the reason the room hasn’t changed much? Behind the tub are a series of intricate tiles, painted with peonies and cherry blossoms. These were imported from China along with various other Chinese porcelain, which can be found in the room.

Carlota’s Bedroom

The decoration of the palace during Maximilian’s reign almost bankrupted the country. He was obsessed with importing expensive furnishings from Europe along with tapestries, carpets, dishes, tiles and more! Looking inside Carlota’s bedroom, one can see the opulence of their taste. Everything in the room feels like it was made custom just for this space. They even have monogrammed lettering on the iron bed frame. The turquoise blue theme of the room spills into every piece of furniture and all the textiles. It feels like an ocean wave, swallowing you up.

On the bed’s headboard, you can see a golden medallion featuring the coat of arms of Mexico. On either side of the crest are two golden lions. Blending the Mexican symbols with the Austrian lions.

Tea Room

Beside Carlota’s bedroom is her tea room, where she should retire after a long day with her ladies in waiting. It might surprise you to learn that Carlota’s most trusted ladies-in-waiting were from important Mexican families. She chose this instead of bringing European ladies with her. This was once more due to her wanting to assimilate with the people she was destined to rule. Maximilian trusted his wife so implicitly that anytime he left the country on business, he didn’t hesitate to hand the reins of government over to her. She cared so deeply for the wellbeing of her new country he knew it was in good hands with her.

Gobelins Room

The most impressive room on the first floor is the Gobelins Room. Staring back at you from any of the walls are portraits of Maximilian and Carlota. Painted in different periods of their life. Despite having only lived in the palace for a short period, these portraits allow us to feel like they are still a part of the castle today.

Two of the largest pieces of furniture in the room are two great pianos. One French and one English. Both of them belonged to Maximilian and his wife. They were each great fans of music and filled their home these instruments.

Hidden Rooms

Behind a set of doors at the end of the hall is a hidden elevator. This elevator was once used to bring people from the bottom of the hill up into the castle.

Agreement Hall

After the castle became the primary residence of the president, there needed to be an official meeting room built inside. This was where the President could receive members of his cabinet. The Agreement Hall was designed in the early 20th century. The green velvet tabletops and portraits of past presidents on the walls make the entire room feel very presidential. The portraits feature historical figures such as Presidents Madero, Carranza, Obregon, Calles Gil, Rubio, Rodriguez and Cardenas.

Waiting Room

Just beside the Agreements Hall is a small waiting room. Two mahogany carved chairs sit on either side of an enormous clock in the centre. On either side of the clock are two large brass sculptures of the eagle of Mexico City. Before being given an audience with the president, guests would wait in here before being admitted into the agreement hall.

Courtyard Garden

Before heading up to the second floor, take a minute to walk around the small courtyard garden. The hedges and fountain wrap around the front of the palace and the outer balcony terrace looks out over the city. In the centre of the garden is the Grasshopper fountain. The bronze grasshopper statue in the fountain is symbolic of the Aztec name for the hilltop. The sculpture was made by Luis Albarran y Pilego in 1924.

Hero Children of the Battle of Chapultepec

Surrounding the grasshopper fountain are six sculptures of young men dressed in military garb. Each one represents one of the cadets who died defending the castle during the battle against the Americans. The power of their heroism for defending their school lives on through these depictions. Most of their faces were artistic interpretations with the exception of Juan Escutia. We knew what he looked like the artist could work off a photograph to sculpt him exactly. Juan is seen holding the Mexican flag in his arms. Juan’s death was the most powerful images of the battle. When they found his body it was said he wrapped himself in the flag before jumping to his death.

Lions Staircase

In 1878, the terrace needed to be expanded to accommodate the new National Astronomical, Meteorological and Magnetic Observatory. Therefore a second floor was built to accommodate for these new buildings. Later, when Porfirio Díaz moved in, he remodelled this upper level to create a new set of presidential rooms. But he also wanted to design a regal staircase, that reflected the grandiosity of his chambers.

Lion’s Staircase

The Lion’s Staircase was built with bright white Carrara marble to contrast the deep brass of the railings. On either side of the staircase, two large marble lions guard the entrance. The lions were based on the neoclassical lion statues, that guard Pope Clement XIII’s mausoleum in Saint Peter’s Basilica. The sleeping lion on the left represents peace and tranquillity. The one on the right with its eyes open represents the safeguarding of the castle.

Stained Glass Staircase

In 1915, the staircase was remodelled on the instructions of President Venustiano Carranza. Prior to Carranza, the staircase was open to the elements. He came up with the idea of adding in the stained glass panels to protect the stairwell from cold, the rain and even just from the bugs!

They employed famed artists Jorge Enciso, Alberto Garduno and Saturnino Hernán to design these stained glass windows. Their floral and vegetal patterns that frame the windows were inspired by the Mexican landscape. Various windows feature these medallions with the images of the Mexican coat of arms and as well as the grasshopper, the symbol of Chapultapec.

Terrace

In 1839, Ángel and Inglis Calderón de la Barca moved to Mexico City from their home in Spain. Ángel was sent to Mexico as the new Spanish minister. Upon their arrival, Inglis went by the name the Marquise Calderon de la Barca. Inglis would go on to become one of the most famous female literary figures of the 19th-century. During her time in Mexico, she wrote accounts of her travels and assembled them into a book titled Life in Mexico.

When she arrived at the Chapultepec Castle, the building was empty and rotting. But the terrace was her sanctuary. It overlooked the Valley of Mexico. From there she could appreciate the beauty of the city with its aqueducts, green forests, churches and turquoise sky. On clear days, she could see the snow-covered volcanos, the Ajusco and the mountains that surround the valley of Mexico.

The Bacchantes

Throughout the outdoor terrace, along the walls, are a series of painted Bacchantes. The bacchantes, whose names translates into the “raving ones” are female followers of Dionysus. They are most often portrayed as in a state of ecstatic frenzy through a combination of dancing and intoxication. The bacchantes are depicted wearing ivy-wreaths around their heads and often handle or wear snakes. They represent being the life of the party! And they seduce all those who look upon them to take part in the festivities. There are five murals in total, with a sixth in a museum, painted by Santiago Rebull in 1902.

Porfirio Diaz Bedroom

During Díaz’s presidency, his entire family lived outside the city but would come to stay inside Chapultepec Castle during the summer months. Keeping the tradition that dates back to pre-hispanic times of using it as a summer palace. Here they would hold fancy dinner parties and receptions. Diaz and his wife had their bedroom on the second floor of the palace. Their bedrooms were significantly less opulent than the ones on the first floor designed by Maximilian. Signifying the difference between a royal ruler and an elected representative.

Bedroom of Carmen Romero Rubio

Carmen Romero Rubio was the daughter of a prominent military leader with ties to important political circles. She was educated, elegant, discreet and pious. Much like other influential wives, Carmen was instrumental in winning over the Mexican people and some sectors that were usually reluctant to the government. Although she always took care to stay away from the political affairs of the president, she doubtlessly helped improve Diaz’s public image. Her bedroom furniture was imported from France like her husband’s. It reflected her austerity and elegance as well as her taste for European fashions.

Office of Carmen Romero Rubio

Both Diaz and Rubio were avid scholars. They each loved reading and writing and had a treasure trove of books. The couple read everything from history to philosophy to books on the legal system in their library. They would frequently come here to their shared offices to read in peace, away from the rest of the world. Porfirio Díaz and Carmen Romero Rubio remained married until their deaths in exile in France in 1915.

Stained Glass Gallery

During Maximilian’s time in the palace, he wanted to build a roofed-in corridor on the second floor. This was meant to replicate the open terrace on the first floor. But as the years went by, they found that the high winds from the terrace made the rooms on the second floor very chilly at night. When Diaz took occupancy of the castle, he went about enclosing the space. But Diaz didn’t simply want to board it up. Instead, inspired by the stained glass windows inside European palaces and churches, he commissioned his own stained glass gallery.

This hallway does feel more like a sacred space than just a homely hallway. The richness of the colours of glass hasn’t changed an ounce over the years. The windows depict a series of Greco-Roman goddesses. We have Pomona, the goddess of fruit trees, gardens, and orchards. Next, we have Flora, the goddess of flowers and of spring. There is Hebe, the goddess of youth. Diana can be seen, the goddess of hunting and forests. And finally, we have Ceres, the agriculture goddess.

Each one of these women stands beneath a richly ornate arch. Supported on either side by two wonderfully carved columns with motifs in the shapes of plants, flowers and fruit. See if you can spot a few human faces amongst the carvings as well! Above each of the women is a medallion depicting the crest of Mexico City.

Interior Staircase

At the end of the Stained Glass Gallery, you can see the entrance to the interior staircase. The staircase is not accessible to the public. But it would lead from the second floor down to the antechamber below just off the dining room. It’s a beautiful peek into the most private parts of the castle.

Hall of Ambassadors

Opposite the Stained Glass Gallery, is one of the most elaborate rooms on the second floor, the Hall of Ambassadors. When Diaz presided over the country, Mexico saw a huge period of popularity amongst foreign nations. Diplomats from other countries all came to the castle to be entertained by the president. And the main area where they would be hosted was in the Hall of Ambassadors. Designer Epitacio Calvo brought elements of the baroque and the French neo-classical style into the furniture and the decorations.

Tower

In 1878 the first National Astronomical Observatory was built inside Chapultapec Castle. In fact, the large tower in the centre of the interior terrace was built just to house the telescope within. They dubbed this tower, the High Knight. When the castle was converted to a military college, the telescope was moved to the town of Tacubaya.

After moving the telescope out, the military converted the old observatory into a guard tower by adding in some guard posts surrounding the exterior. Today, since the castle is no longer used by the military, the guard posts are filled with beautiful bronze sculptures.

At the very top of the tower is where you’ll find the Mexican flag, flying proudly against a bright blue sky (on most days at least). Even on the ground, far far below the top of Chapultepec Hill, this flag can be seen on clear days. A wonderful icon of the city.

Indoor Concerts

We were lucky enough to be there on the day when a local group of musicians were performing their end-of-semester concert. There are often concerts heard here in the outdoor courtyard. There is nothing better than the sound of acoustic music filling the halls. The perfect way to end a spectacular day.

If you still have any energy left, consider walking through the Museum of Anthropology. It is located inside the old military college just next door to the Castle interiors. If you’re pressed for time, the palace is more than enough to fill your eyes with splendours. But if time allows, the Museum of Anthropology is much more interesting than perhaps it sounds. And is included in the same admission ticket. It’s filled with works incredible murals painted by preeminent Mexican artists. The collection also features objects and images that narrate the history of Mexico from the time of the Conquest to the 20th century. Well worth the effort to explore it if you have the time.

Hopefully, you enjoyed this tour of Chapultepec Castle, a historical gem of Mexico City. Let me know in the comments what your favourite part of the palace was!

Happy Travels Adventurers.

The post A Complete Guided Tour of Chapultepec Castle, Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.