Nothing was as perfectly Provencal as waking up at dawn every morning and walking down to the local bakery. As you approach the boulangerie, be prepared for a sensory overload. The aroma of freshly baked bread wafts through the air, drawing you in with its irresistible allure. Your eyes feast on a display of golden baguettes, flaky croissants, and other delicacies.

We came to our local boulangerie every day on our trip. And by the end of the two-week-long stay, it was like saying goodbye to new friends. They even gifted us a bottle of their homemade lavender honey. It was all wrapped up and tied with a bow. I am still thinking about how quickly we can return to Provence, almost soley to see those people again! And of course, eat their delicious baked treats!

Table Of Contents

1. French Bread Laws
2. What Makes Provencal Boulangeries Unique?
3. Be Aware of Opening Hours
4. Boulangerie vs Pâtisseries
5. Always Greet the Boulanger
6. Choosing the Right Baguette
7. French Bread
8. Viennoiseries
9. French Terms for the Boulangerie

French Bread Laws

One of the greatest parts of staying in a small town in Provence is getting to visit the local boulangeries. No matter how small the town, there will be a boulangerie. And how do I know this? Well, it’s the law. In France, a law known as the “Décret Pain” (Bread Decree) regulates the production of baguettes. The law ensures that traditional French baguettes must be made with specific ingredients and cannot contain any additives or preservatives. The law also stipulates that baguettes must be sold in the same place they are made to ensure freshness. Even the smallest villages, without any storefronts, will have a large “dépôt de pain” van that will pull up every morning to sell fresh bread to the residents.

What Makes Provencal Boulangeries Unique?

Provence boasts a bountiful agricultural landscape. Looking out your window, you can see the golden wheat fields dancing in the wind across the countryside. Thanks to locally sourced flour, olive oil, herbs, and other regional produce, you’ll find that Provencal bakeries add their own unique flavour to classic French baked goods. And the laid-back atmosphere is much less intense than in big cities where boulangeries appear to be competing against each other for the “best croissant.” Provence has no competition but an environment of mutual respect, admiration and collaboration.

Be Aware of Opening Hours

Boulangeries, especially those in Provence, tend to have some interesting, shall we say, opening hours. The very best way to check the most up-to-date hours is to look at the sign outside the boulangerie. These will always list their opening hours for each day of the week (as often they will be different throughout the week.) Boulangeries typically open around 7 am as many people come here first thing in the morning to pick up food for the day or perhaps stock their restaurant pantry. Most boulangerie will close down from 12 pm till 2 or 3 pm for their European lunchtime. Often there will be certain days of the week they will close down completely, and in those cases, you’ll always find another boulangerie in town that will be open. They strive to ensure these are on opposite days so there is never a day without bread!

Boulangerie vs Pâtisseries

All throughout the French countryside, you’ll see signs for “Boulangeries” and “Pâtisseries.” But what is the difference between the two? Although they might both sell baked goods, a boulangerie comes from the French word “Boulanger,” which means “baker.” Boulangeries are required by law to bake their bread right on the premises. Whereas patisseries can include goods baked externally but sold in-store.

While Pâtisseries specialize in a wide range of sweet pastries, cakes, and desserts, don’t think you won’t find amazing sweet treats in the boulangerie. Most local bakers are just as talented at making delectable pastries as the ones you’ll find in patisseries.

Always Greet the Boulanger

Upon entering, you must greet the Boulanger or their staff. A simple “Bonjour” or “comment ça va?” (Hello / How are you) will go a long way in establishing a friendly connection. In France, not greeting someone with “bonjour” is considered VERY rude. And it will put the entire shopping experience off the wrong foot. 

Choosing the Right Baguette

No visit to a boulangerie in Provence is complete without indulging in a fresh baguette. To ask for a baguette simply say, “Une baguette, s’il vous plaît” (One baguette, please). But more often than not, there will be more than one option for your fresh baguettes. Unlike in North America, where a baguette is a baguette, France has many different varieties.

Baguette Ordinaire vs Traditional

The two most common varieties are the baguette ordinaire and the baguette traditional. An ordinary baguette will always be your cheapest option and is exactly what you would expect from a baguette. A traditional or artisan baguette will be slightly darker in colour, with a thicker, crispier crust, often with pinched ends. This is always my choice as I love how the flavour is more pronounced in the crust when it is a little more well done.

Pain d’Épi

A specialty type of baguette, often baked on weekends in Provence, is the Pain d’Épi. This type of bread is shaped like an ear of wheat, and often, they add different kinds of seeds onto the top of the bread. The different “ears” along the baguette make it easy to tear apart with your hands and share amongst the table. 

Baguette Levain

Another find is the baguette levain or sourdough baguette. As a huge fan of sourdough bread, combining the sourdough taste with the crispy baguette form was absolute perfection!

Baguette Complete

If you’re looking for something different, see if they sell a baguette complete. This kind of baguette is made with wholemeal flour and is more like multigrain bread. Sesame, poppy and flax are both baked into the bread and spread on top of the crust. A deliciously deep flavour.

French Bread

When buying a loaf of bread (or pain in French) in the boulangerie, the most popular variety is pain de campagne. Pain de Campagne, or country-style bread, is shaped into an oval with a thick crust and usually made with a blend of wheat and white flour. Other popular varies are pain au levain (sourdough), and pain aux céréales (rustic loaf with seeds and whole grains).

If you would like your bread pre-sliced, which makes it easier to serve on picnics, be sure to request for tranché (sliced.)

Provencal Fougasse

Fougasse is a traditional Provencal bread best recognized for its unique design, resembling a leaf or an ear of wheat. Bakers create decorative slashes and cuts in the dough, which open up during baking, giving the bread its characteristic shape. Fougasse highlights the use of olive oil from the region, adding a delightful flavour and aroma to the bread. Popular filling baked into the bread includes olives, cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, herbs (such as rosemary, thyme, or oregano), and occasionally bacon or ham. 

Viennoiseries

Viennoiseries are a category of baked goods you find in the French boulangerie. These are sweet pastries typically enjoyed at breakfasts and are often served with coffee, hot chocolate, or tea. Although eating your pastries with breakfast is very popular, these sweets are made twice daily so you can enjoy them both in the morning and afternoon. Typical Viennoiseries include croissants, pain aux chocolate, brioche, palmiers, chausson aux pommes and more!

Croissants

Next on our bread-buying adventure is the irresistible croissant. As you gaze upon the golden crescents of buttery goodness, allow yourself to be transported to a world of pure indulgence. And don’t think about the butter or calories… Just close your eyes and enjoy. While you can always opt for the traditional butter croissant, my favourites are the pain au chocolate or chocolate croissants. The same croissant base is used to fold in sticks of rich chocolate which melts in the centre of the pastry.

Pain Aux Raisins

Pain aux Raisins are made with the same croissant dough but are mixed with raisins and sometimes a pistachio filling. The raw dough is then rolled into a flat, round shape. It is meant to mirror the image of a snail shell, and as such, it is often called an “escargot.“ Strange and perhaps unappetizing name for a sweet pastry, but don’t let that put you off; these are absolutely delicious.

Palmier

A Palmier, also known as “Palm Leaf” or “Elephant Ear,” is made from a thin, flaky puff pastry. When baked, the dough is sprinkled with sugar, which caramelizes to create a crisp, golden-brown exterior. The name “Palmier” (meaning “palm tree” in French) comes from its resemblance to a palm leaf.

Sacristain

If you’re looking for something a little different, go for the Sacristains. Sacristains are delicate, sweet, and irresistibly crispy! These pastries are covered in caramelized sugar and almonds on the outside and have tender, flaky layers on the inside. The layers of puff pastry as twisted before baking to meld all the different flavours together. The result is a pastry that almost resembles a length of twisted rope. These pastries can be found all over France but are very popular in Provence. Because of their long shape, they are ideal to have with a cup of coffee as you dip the pastry into it repeatedly. Adding that delicious rich, and slightly bitter flavour to the sweet pastry. 

Chocolate Torsades 

Also similar to the Sacristain are Chocolate Torsades. The word “Torsades” comes from the French term for “twists” or “braids,” which perfectly describes the pastry’s distinctive appearance. Chocolate Torsades are made from flaky, buttery puff pastry but theses are infused with cocoa or melted chocolate. Great for kids!

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Éclairs

One of the most classic French desserts has got to be Éclairs! This French pastry is known for its elongated shape, light choux pastry shell, and delectable fillings. The word “éclair” in French means “flash of lightning,” likely named due to the glistening chocolate glaze that resembles a shiny lightning bolt.

Éclairs are typically filled with flavoured creams or custards. This includes everything from vanilla or chocolate pastry cream, coffee-flavoured custard, or even fruit-flavoured creams. The pastries are then topped with glossy icing or chocolate ganache. Truly irresistible for anyone with a sweet tooth.

Tarte Tropézienne

If you love brioche, then you need to try out a Tarte Tropézienne. This amazing delicacy was born in southern France and is one of the most popular treats on the shelf. This pastry, often simply called “Tropézienne,” is made from a thick brioche bun sliced horizontally into two layers. A light, rich, cream filling is generously spread over the bottom layer. And the top is placed delicately back on top, like a sandwich. The top of the Tropézienne is then dusted with powdered sugar, giving it an elegant finish.

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The pastry’s name, “Tarte Tropézienne,” was inspired by the seaside town of Saint-Tropez. Famed actress Brigitte Bardot visited Saint-Tropez during the filming of the movie, “And God Created Woman,” in the 1950s. During filming, pastry artist Alexandre Micka presented Bardot with his unique take on a brioche tart. She loved it so much that she suggested naming it “La Tarte Tropézienne.” Her endorsement helped propel the pastry to fame and contributed to its widespread popularity today.

Charlotte 

A Charlotte is a classic and elegant French pastry that feels like a special treat. The dessert is iconic thanks to its ring of ladyfingers enclosing a luscious filling, usually made of fruit, custard, or mousse. It looks like a little crown filled with sweets.

Tartelettes Chiboust

Tartelettes Chiboust, also known as Tartelettes à la Chiboust or simply Chiboust Tartlets, are made from a thin pastry crust filled with wobbly custard cream. “Chiboust” refers to French pastry chef François Chiboust, credited with its creation. After the cream is added to the baked crust, it is baked again—this time with a sprinkling of sugar on top to create a caramelized crust atop the soft cream. The tartlets are usually garnished with fresh fruit, such as raspberries or strawberries. Really, whatever is in season!

Croque Monsieur & Croque Madame 

If you’re looking to pick up something savoury or perhaps something to have for lunch, you should always make a point to grab either the Croque Monsieur or Croque Madame. These classic French sandwiches are made with ham, cheese, and a layer of rich béchamel sauce. A Croque Monsieur is a ham and cheese sandwich grilled or baked until the bread becomes golden and crispy. A Croque Madame is a variation of the Croque Monsieur but with the addition of a fried or poached egg on top. It’s a little messy to eat but well worth the effort! Both sandwiches come on sliced bread or on a baguette, depending on the preference of your Boulanger.

French Terms for the Boulangerie

At the heart of every boulangerie in Provence lies a commitment to craftsmanship passed down through generations. The bakers’ dedication to preserving time-honoured techniques and using high-quality, locally sourced ingredients creates an unmistakable authenticity in every delicacy they offer. The experience of enjoying a warm croissant or a crusty baguette becomes a celebration of tradition, connecting us to the past while savouring the present. I hope you enjoyed this guide to exploring a French Boulangerie, and it helps you feel more confident in stepping inside your local boulangerie on your next trip to Provence!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate French Bakery Guide, a Boulangerie in Provence first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
   • Jerónimos Monastery
2. What Makes a Good Pastel de Natas?
3. Where to Find Lisbon’s Best 'Pasteis de nata'
   • Belém – Pastéis de Belém
   • Avenida da Liberdade – Fábrica da Nata
   • Baixa – Confeitaria Nacional
   • Cais do Sodré – Zarzuela
   • Chiado – Manteigaria
   • Barrio Alto – Pastelaria Padaria Sao Roque
   • Alfama – Pastelaria Alfama Doce
   • Happy Travels, Adventurers!

History

Before diving into the tart themselves, let’s take a minute to study the history of these desserts and why they are so iconic as a representation of Portugal’s culinary history. If you want to skip to the food, feel free to scroll down, but it’s nice to know a bit about why these treats are so important to eat when visiting Lisbon. The recipe for this famous sweet dates back over 300 years to a neighbourhood just west of the centre of Lisbon, in Belem. You can still visit the bakery to this day (Pastéis de Belém) and sample the very tart, which sparked thousands of copycats.

Jerónimos Monastery

The first pastel de nata (Pastel is singular, and Pasteis is the plural) was invented by the monks of Jerónimos Monastery. The monks would use egg whites to clean their clothes, and they ended up with thousands of egg yolks being thrown away. To use up the yolks and, in turn, sell some pastries to raise money for the monastery, the monks invented the recipe, which called for egg yolks as their main ingredient. Monks and nuns making and selling pastries is a practice dating back to the 16th century. In Barcelona, you can still try the convent cookies and/or travel to sample sweets from saints in Seville (not actually, but the alliteration was too good to pass up!) The word’ pastel de nata‘ is Portuguese for “cream pastry.”

Oddly enough, there is no cream used in making the pastries since the perfect custard filling is made with milk instead of cream. Cream would make the filling much too sweet and dense, whereas the milk produces that ideal jiggly, eggy custard which makes these desserts so tempting. After the Liberal Revolution of 1820 and the dissolution of the monasteries, the pastel de nata recipe was sold off to the current owners of the Pastéis de Belém. But the recipe was so popular that other bakeries started to attempt their own version to draw in the same crowds that Pastéis de Belém was gathering. Eventually, many succeeded, some with their own alterations and additions. When visiting Lisbon, there are many choices to find your perfect pastel de nata.

What Makes a Good Pastel de Natas?

Pasteis de nata MUST have a crispy and flaky crust, but the filling should be creamy and sweet, jiggly but NOT runny. Finally, they must be finished by being cooked at a super high temperature to give the tops that slightly caramelized surface with a touch of burnt sugar without being totally overdone.

If you are interested in seeing how they’re made, our stop at Manteigaria has a window into the bakery where you can watch the chefs at work. You might not want to watch this if you’re worried about calories! When you see the tart being made, you’re unaware of how many pounds of butter, eggs, and sugar go into these treats. But you’re on vacation, and there’s no such thing as calories, right? 

The effort it takes to make this dessert is astounding for such a little thing, but it really does pack a huge flavour punch! It’s easy to see after watching the process why so many bakeries try but fail to achieve the same quality product as these stellar bakers. To eat the pastries like a local, dust them in a cinnamon or powdered sugar coating. They are best enjoyed standing at the counters with an espresso (if you want to impress the staff, ask for a ‘bica‘ since that’s what they call ‘espresso’ in Lisbon).

While you can take them to go or sit down, standing at the counter is a great chance to chat with the staff and meet other locals. Always ask for a hot one out of the oven since those are the best! If they say they’ll have a few hot ones ready in a few minutes, WAIT! Trust me, it’s worth it. While still delicious, the cold ones aren’t the same.

Where to Find Lisbon’s Best ‘Pasteis de nata’

Belém – Pastéis de Belém

The best place to start your Pastel de Nata journey is where it originated, Pastéis de Belém. Belém is a laid-back neighbourhood west of the main part of the city along the Tagus River. This storefront might look small, but if you venture inside, you’ll see that the interior stretches out for miles. Even on a busy day, if you decide to take a seat, you’ll find you can almost always get a table outside the lunch and dinner hour.

You might have to wait a bit longer to be served, but the ambiance and traditional decor of the interior are well worth enjoying for an extended period. The tarts are unique compared to any of the other ones we tasted. They are much more creamy and less sweet. The egg flavour really stands out. The crust was also slightly thicker to hold up the more substantial custard.

What makes them stand out? 

Authenticity. Some of the more upscale bakeries in the city feel like they’re exploiting the tourist trend for these desserts. Pastéis de Belém serves many tourists, but their service and flavours aren’t trying to put on airs or impress. They are just there to serve the same recipe they’ve been selling for hundreds of years.

Cost: 1,05 €/each

Avenida da Liberdade – Fábrica da Nata

Fábrica da Nata has a few different shops in Lisbon, but the one on the Avenida da Liberdade is their most opulent and indulgent. The Avenida da Liberdade and Principe Real neighbourhood is an upscale stretch of Lisbon’s city centre, famous for its expensive shopping and luxurious architecture. As soon as you step in the door, the smell of sweet cream and flaky crust fills your nose. You can watch the bakers carrying trays of hundreds of tarts, sprung straight from the oven, jetting back and forth from the kitchen to the display cases.

A little conveyor belt runs along the ceiling, holding (fake) trays of pastries, carrying them all around the shop’s roof. While it’s just a gimmick, it adds a cute, almost Willy Wonka-like effect to the cafe. Fábrica da Nata is fabulously decorated, with blue tiles and lush seating. After all, you eat with your eyes, so no one will say no to such a beautiful environment. The tarts are almost always hot since there is nearly constantly a line up out the door (it moves very quickly, though, so don’t let that scare you off). While this might be a controversial opinion, these were my #1 tarts we had the entire trip! 

What makes them stand out? 

The crust! I found that the crusts were by far the crispiest, and there was a stronger hint of salt in them which seemed to balance the sweetness of the filling perfectly! If you love a salty-sweet treat, this is the place for you.

Cost: 1,00 €/each

Baixa – Confeitaria Nacional

Baixa is the historic heart of Lisbon and where you’ll find the oldest buildings in the city here. Confeitaria Nacional is the oldest pastry shop in Lisbon; it opened in 1829 and is now considered somewhat of a national monument. The dim, yellow glow from the old lamps reflecting off the mirrored ceiling is the first thing you’ll see upon entering. In glass cases around the room are displays of the various colourful cakes and desserts for which the bakery is so famous.

What makes them stand out? 

The flavours. The second owner of the shop, Baltazar Castanheiro Jr., spent much of their life travelling and bringing back recipes from other countries to incorporate into his pastries. He even dared to do so with the famed Portuguese sweet tart. Here you can find more than just plain custard; you can sample coffee, chocolate and pistachio Pasteis de nata! While this might not be the most authentic, it’s refreshing to see that he wanted to try something new. Can you imagine if all we had back home was plain doughnuts? Pretty hard to envision. The same kind of thing applies here, and it’s definitely worth trying to a twist on the original.

Cost: 1,20 €/each

Cais do Sodré – Zarzuela

Cais do Sodre, located south of the city centre, along the river, is one of the city’s most trendy and fashionable neighbourhoods. It has only recently undergone a hipster rejuvenation, but dozens of mom-and-pop cafes and restaurants are booming in this neighbourhood revival! This laid-back bakery doesn’t have many frills, but what it lacks in decor, it makes up for in dedication! Zarzuela serves up traditional Portuguese gluten-free, lactose-free and even vegan baked goods. Making gluten-free baked goods taste like the authentic, wheat-filled version takes real skill, and I made sure to try out plenty of their desserts and was amazed at how good they all were. Make sure to eat them warm as gluten-free items don’t stand the test of time like other pastries can, and fresh out of the oven, they are the most delicious!

What makes them stand out? 

Giving EVERYONE a chance to taste Portugal’s culinary history! While the taste might not be the same as the real thing, it’s a fantastic option for travellers with dietary restrictions who often never get the chance to sample this kind of baked goods. The gluten-free tart has a much thicker crust, but the filling is the same as any other bakery. I didn’t love the flavours of the vegan tart, but I know other vegans who are used to the taste of soy and egg substitutes who really enjoyed it and appreciated the chance to try it out. If you have anyone in your party with dietary needs, you CANNOT miss out on visiting Zarzuela. (P.s. be sure to try the doughnuts, they are insanely good!)

Cost: 2,20 €/each

Chiado – Manteigaria

The Chiado neighbourhood in Lisbon is one of the best places to visit come the setting of the sun. The district comes alive at night and bursts with people drinking on the cobblestones (since the bars themselves are much too small to fit all those patrons). But during the daytime, the lineups on the street are for one thing only; Pasteis de nata! Manteigaria, now one of Lisbon’s most visited pastel de nata bakeries, was once just a simple butter shop. You’ll see tiled signs all over the city for ‘Manteigarias‘ (butter shops) and ‘Leitarias‘ (milk shops) with images of beautiful milkmaid.

With the invention of the supermarket, these specialized stores died out, although their attractive signage was left as a memento of bygone times. Manteigaria opened in 2015 and quickly became the #1 stop to eat Pasteis de nata! Critiques have even named this location over the original Belem bakery, the best place to eat natas in Lisbon. While I still prefer Fabrica de Nata, this is a CLOSE second.

What makes them stand out? 

What makes them stand out? The filling. The complex taste of the custard here is what you notice most; it feels more complicated and nuanced than the original. The crust is much thinner and, therefore, very crispy and light, allowing that creamy, layered essence of eggs and milk to come through nice and bright! It’s so easy to eat more than just one…or two…or three…

Cost: 1,00 €/each

Barrio Alto – Pastelaria Padaria Sao Roque

Up the cobblestone steps from Chiado, you’ll find the bohemian neighbourhood of Bairro Alto. This district has some of the most quirky restaurants and traditional Fado bars playing music well into the early morning. Pastelaria Padaria Sao Roque is otherworldly and fits right in this over-the-top block. You’ll be in awe when you walk in the door by the ornate, embellished ceiling, bronze marble columns, and art deco azulejos adorning the walls and countertop.

What makes them stand out? 

Sweetness. If you have a sweet tooth, this is the place for you! This shop’s Pasteis de nata are extremely sweet, and their crust extremely flaky! You can see almost every layer of the pastry peeling back like the petals of a flower on the plate. The crust is crunchy and eaten with an espresso; it feels like the perfect balancing act to a splendid morning meal.

Cost: 1,00 €/each

Alfama – Pastelaria Alfama Doce

Alfama is Lisbon’s oldest neighbourhood; perhaps because of this, it’s also home to the city’s best residents. They have been living in this maze-like, steep hillside part of Lisbon for hundreds of years, and Alfama feels like a city. At Pastelaria Alfama Doce, you’ll find a glass cabinet filled with simple, traditional treats. In addition to fresh pastries, this place serves up the best freshly squeezed orange juice to enjoy along with your morning pastry.

What makes them stand out? 

The hospitality. The friendly smiles and attention you’ll get in this area are unrivalled and exceptional. They feel like family welcoming you into their kitchen for your morning breakfast. Be sure to spend some time here chatting with the owners and locals since everyone has a story to tell and a recommendation you will be remiss not to take when visiting! Plus, they cost a bit less than any other locations, so you can chow down on more than just one!

Cost: 0,85 €/each

We tried so many other tarts from bakeries, not on this list, some of which we found really lacking. They were either too cold, hard, sweet or even bland. If you’re out to find your secret spot, venture outside this list and try to find your personal fave. But if you’re only visiting Lisbon for a short time and need to hit up the best places ASAP, then this list will serve you well. No matter where you end up in the city, an amazing pastel de nata cafe is nearby! Let me know which one of these bakeries was your favourite if you’ve already visited Lisbon or which one you think you’d be leaning toward if you’re planning on visiting soon!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post An Insider Guide to Finding the Best Pasteis de Nata (Portuguese Egg Tarts) in Lisbon first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.