Bed and Breakfast - The Creative Adventurer https://thecreativeadventurer.com A Travel Guide for Exploring the World Mon, 28 Apr 2025 14:47:08 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 https://i0.wp.com/thecreativeadventurer.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/cropped-NewCreativeAdventurerLogo_250x250_v1.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Bed and Breakfast - The Creative Adventurer https://thecreativeadventurer.com 32 32 171399271 11 Amazing Things to See and Do in Launceston, Tasmania https://thecreativeadventurer.com/10-amazing-things-to-see-and-do-in-launceston-tasmania/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=10-amazing-things-to-see-and-do-in-launceston-tasmania https://thecreativeadventurer.com/10-amazing-things-to-see-and-do-in-launceston-tasmania/#comments Sun, 23 Aug 2020 16:11:49 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//?p=1413 Launceston is untouched by mega-tourism and has a unique landscape only found in this part of the country. It's a combination of New Zealand's rich scenery and Australia's vibrant culture. If you're a tourist who wants to get off the beaten track and get a little peace and quiet, then Launceston is the place for you.

The post 11 Amazing Things to See and Do in Launceston, Tasmania first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> Launceston, and Tasmania in general, is an overlooked place travellers to Australia often disregard. Less than 2% of tourists who visit Australia make it over to this island state. Perhaps because there are no international flights directly in or out of Tasmania and the fact that the state is located outside the mainland. But the lack of direct access makes Tasmania feel a little more remote and hidden away. It means those who make it out there are rewarded with some of the most pleasant little towns, just like Launceston!

Launceston is untouched by mega-tourism and has a unique landscape only found in this part of the country. Launceston to me felt like a combination of New Zealand’s rich scenery and Australia’s vibrant culture. If you’re a tourist who wants to get off the beaten track and get a little peace and quiet, then Launceston is the place for you.

Table Of Contents
  1. History
  2. Access
  3. Best Time to Visit
  4. What to Pack?
  5. Where to Stay
  6. What to do in Launceston

History

Launceston, located on the northern tip of the state of Tasmania, is one of their two main cities. The other being Hobart, located on the southern end. Launceston is Australia’s third oldest European settlement, established in 1806 after Sydney (in 1788) and Hobart (in 1803). The city is renowned for its well preserved historic buildings, artful food scene and lush countryside.

While I highly enjoyed visiting both Hobart and Launceston, and each had its own pros and cons, Launceston felt more in line with my creative travel sensibilities. The city streets were more artful, their parks lusher. The overall design seemed to be of the utmost importance, even if a bit dated. Like other Australian cities, Launceston features a thriving coffee scene, great food, excellent hikes and an intimacy with the natural environment that you wouldn’t expect from a big city.

Access

The best way to get to Launceston is by plane. A short flight from Sydney, Melbourne, or Brisbane will land you just 15 minutes outside the city’s centre. While renting a car is advisable to see the rest of Tasmania, we didn’t find that one was necessary at all for our time inside the confines of Launceston’s city centre and outer boroughs.

Best Time to Visit

Launceston and Tasmania, in general, is noticeably colder than the rest of Australia. Don’t come here without checking the weather! We saw a few people step off the plane in shorts and t-shirts in a climate that was more suitable for a winter coat.

From November to March are the best months to travel when the weather is at its most enjoyable. June, July and August are relatively chilly and rainy. Still, the prices of hotels are significantly discounted, and the city is almost empty! Summer is the peak travel season when you’ll find the hotels to be the priciest.

Whereas international travellers might not find their way to Tasmania, local Australians have been frequenting the island more and more, so be sure to check the dates of any Australia holidays or school breaks as these times may also be much busier and more expensive.

What to Pack?

As mentioned above, you might be surprised to see how different the weather is here compared to Australia’s arid deserts and beachy coasts. So much of Tasmania is made up of cool temperate rainforests. In addition to your regular travel essentials, there are a few critical items to bring to Launceston and Tasmania. It’s crucial to pack lots of layers that will help you keep warm in the morning, but which you can shed after a few hours of hiking which warms you right up!

It’s also essential to pack a good raincoat or waterproof windbreaker, which can be super useful since rain is a frequent visitor to Tasmania’s forecasts. The rainforests can get pretty wet. Umbrellas are also a good thing to pack in your bag for extra protection.

Where to Stay

When planning my stay in Launceston, I was so excited to find that almost every single home and hotel listed on Tripadvisor was over 4-stars. This meant that you could throw a dart and end up at a fantastic hotel. Everyone we met was so happy to see us, so proud of their city and more than willing to help us out in any way they could. Whether it was picking us up from the airport or showing us around town, Launceston’s residence were always going over and above our expectations.

Launceston Backpackers

We stayed at the Launceston Backpackers, a lovely old house renovated to hold guests. It felt more like staying in someone’s cottage rather than a hotel. I loved the architecture, the stained glass, the old furniture, pretty much everything. It was super affordable and right in the centre of town meaning we could easily walk from place to place without ever having to get on a bus or rent a car.

Price: $47 USD/night

Kurrajong House

Kurrajong House offers accommodation to adult-only guests who enjoy a quiet and tranquil stay. The house is a heritage property that has been lovingly restored. You can choose to stay in either their Heritage guest rooms within the main house or one of two courtyard rooms that overlook their small garden. They are located in Launceston’s luxury end and a short 5-minute walk to the city.

Price: $108 USD/night 

Hatherley Birrell Collection

Hatherley Birrell Collection is a boutique hotel offering a high-end experience with some of the most exceptionally stylish rooms. With four unique spaces to stay in Hatherley Birrell Collection leaves your soul enriched and your creativity inspired during your stay in Launceston!

Price: $170 USD/night

What to do in Launceston

1. Sweetbrew 

The first thing to do in the morning is to grab yourself a cup of coffee! Australia is known for its incredible coffee culture, and Tasmania is no different. Sweetbrew is a local hangout for hipsters and tourists alike. Every coffee is perfectly crafted, and their summer berry cake is something I’ll remember forever!

2. Eat the Day Away at the Harvest Farmer’s Market

For breakfast, head on down to the Harvest Saturday Farmers Market. Stock up on some doughnuts from @sandyssourdough and if you’re craving something savoury, hit up a gluten-free breakfast bowl from @mountgnomonfarm.

Don’t leave without a bottle or two of manuka honey from Tasmania, something which is sure to cure what ails you. Even if you don’t have a kitchen at your hotel, this is the best place to load up on cheese, freshly cured meats, hot-smoked salmon, fresh berries and fruits and hot from the oven bread. This all makes for a super simple picnic luncheon to enjoy later on in the day.

3. Explore Cataract Gorge

And where to eat your picnic lunch, you may ask? There’s no better place than Cataract Gorge! Cataract Gorge is a stunning park in the centre of Launceston. To get to the gorge, you begin by walking along a scenic pathway, called the King’s Bridge-Cataract Walk. This leads you around the South Esk River’s edge to the northern part of the gorge’s basin. From here, you can walk across the Alexandra Suspension Bridge. On the other side of the bridge, you’ll find a large swimming pool to be enjoyed in the summer months.

4. Get up High on the Gorge Scenic Chairlift

I found the best part of our visit to the gorge was getting to ride the antique chairlift! The chairlift, built in 1972, and is still the longest single-span lift in the world! We were one of the only people in the park during our visit and figured the lift wouldn’t be open. But to our surprise, a quiet old woman was sitting at the desk to welcome us in and let us ride. It felt almost strange like they had kept it open just for us. We giggled the entire way across the gorge, swinging our feet, nervously laughing as the chairlift climbed higher and higher. The chairlift covers 457 metres and moves pretty slowly for you to really take in the scenery around you.

When you get off the chairlift, you can explore the landscaped Victorian garden and small cottage restaurant on the other side of the basin. You’ll find unusual Tasmanian flora and fauna, including ferns, exotic plants, and even wild peacocks.

The trip costs $9 USD for a one-way ticket or $12 USD for an “Across & Back” ticket. We opted for the one-way sine we enjoyed the walk back to the entrance. The lift is open every day from 9am, 365 days a year! In the winter it closes at 4:30 pm, in the Spring and Autumn it closes at 5 pm and in Summer from 5:30 pm to 6 pm.

5. Wonder at the Works inside Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery

If you’re visiting Launceston, you should take some time to admire some local and National Australian art. I found that Australia has such a distinct fine art style and something completely unique compared to European or even American art. My favourite part of this museum was the Tasmanian art collection from the colonial era to the present day. Their gallery even has a focus on Tasmania’s convict history and the strange and powerful art produced by the prisoners.

6. Discover the old Craftsmanship inside the Old Umbrella Shop

Launceston’s historic streets look as though they have been preserved in amber from the late 19th century. While other Australian cities, even in Tasmania, have moved along with modernization, Launceston captures the looks and feel of Australias at the turn of the century. One of the oldest shops which is still up and running is the Old Umbrella Shop. Three generations of the same family have produced and repaired umbrellas in this shop since 1860. The umbrellas here are even crafted from local Tasmanian wood. The historic signage out front is the same as it was in the mid-Victorian era. Giving you a glimpse of what this entire street once might have looked like.

7. Indulge in Fine Dining at Stillwater

For one of the best meals, you’ll have on your entire trip, be sure to book reservations in advance at Stillwater Restaurant. Stillwater is located inside a beautifully restored 1830s flour mill. If you’re lucky enough to get a seat with a view, you can soak in the stunning landscape of the Tamar River while you dine.

Stillwater prides itself on focusing on local food, grown by producers all across Tasmania. Their seafood options are my absolutely favourite dishes but their menu changes so often I can’t recommend one in particular. Whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong. Their wine bar is also stacked with Australian wines, which we know, are some of the best producers of wine world-wide. So relax and indulge in some fine dining!

8. Go Back in Time inside Franklin House

Franklin House gives visitors a glimpse into what life was like for the new colony of Launceston in 1838. It’s Tasmania’s oldest house museum, which has been restored to its original appearance. The house was first built for businessman, Britton Jones. Jones himself was an ex-convict who managed to escape the system and make a new life for himself and his family. It was so exciting to explore the home and discover the original furniture and decor. This allowed us to imagine how all the home here would have looked in years past, like stepping back in time.

9. Sip on Aged Ales at James Boag Brewery Experience

Tasmania’s most famous beer is the Boags beer, which is sold worldwide but highly regarded in Launceston where the brewery is located. On the Brewery Tour experience, you’ll learn all about what makes their beer unique, see how its made and learn about the history of this Tasmanian Brewery.

At the end of the tour, you’ll be invited into their bar where you’ll receive a 30-minute guided beer tasting! Here you’ll be able to taste a flight of their brews paired with locally produced cheese! I’ve been to many a beer tasting but never one which included cheese, so that captured my attention straight away (I’m a HUGE cheese lover) and I did think it really gave an interesting spin on the tasting.

10. Get Spooked on Launceston City Ghost Tours

Ok, now I know ghost tours might seem like something kinda cheesy, but I LOVE them. To me, they are just like a history tour but with a slightly macabre angle. Launceston has a deep and dark convict past. It’s said that some of the prisoners who were sentenced here can still be seen roaming the streets, their ghosts clinging to the mortal world. Walking the old streets of Launceston, your guide will tell tales of the past, making the city’s history come alive. There is both an adult-only and family-friendly option, so there is something for all ages! Obviousy the family-friendly tour is a little less scary so if you spook easily that might be the tour for you.

11. Wander down Memory Lane on a Self Guided History Walk

Launceston has some of the best colonial and Victorian architecture anywhere in Australia. Cameron street alone perfectly exemplifies what the rest of Australia would have looked like during the boom times of the 19th century. You can do your own self-guided walking tour from Albert Hall in the east to the Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery in the west. This tour focuses on specific buildings along the route that tell rich tales of the city’s architectural and social history. There are little plaques along the way to help inform you of the stories as you go. And it’s a great way to explore the city on foot.

While Hobart might be the more famous of the two large Tasmania cities, Launceston is my favourite. It had a quiet charm which I find intoxicating. If you’re looking for a little escape from mainland Australia’s busy beaches and modern cities, Launceston is a great place to come.

Have you ever visited Tasmania? Let me know what you’re favourite part of this island is!

Happy Travel Adventurers!

The post 11 Amazing Things to See and Do in Launceston, Tasmania first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/10-amazing-things-to-see-and-do-in-launceston-tasmania/feed/ 4 1413 The Ultimate Self Guided Walking Tour of Arles, in the Footsteps of Van Gogh https://thecreativeadventurer.com/walking-tour-of-arles-in-the-steps-of-van-gogh/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=walking-tour-of-arles-in-the-steps-of-van-gogh https://thecreativeadventurer.com/walking-tour-of-arles-in-the-steps-of-van-gogh/#comments Sun, 18 Mar 2018 14:24:46 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//walking-tour-of-arles-in-the-steps-of-van-gogh/ Vincent Willem van Gogh, better known to the world as just Van Gogh, is one of the...

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Walking Tour of Arles, in the Footsteps of Van Gogh first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> Vincent Willem van Gogh, better known to the world as just Van Gogh, is one of the most prolific artists (if not THE most) of all time. A tall order, but anyone who has ever had the chance to view his work, especially in person, can tell you; his paintings are more than paintings. They are expressions. Emotionally compelling images of pain and suffering mixed with astonishing beauty.

Van Gogh was born in Zundert but spent one of the most important years of his life as a painter in Arles, France. Arles and the provincial countryside inspired Van Gogh to create brighter and more exciting landscapes. This walking tour will wind you across the city, through its narrow, quaint and beautiful cobblestone backstreets. Our journey takes us along the Rhone River and into the various picturesque squares that Arles is famous for. The walking tour will show you the various works of art that Van Gogh painted while living in Arles and the buildings he frequented as a resident of this historic city. 

Table Of Contents
  1. History
  2. Accommodation
  3. Access
  4. Walking Tour
  5. The Alyscamps
  6. Jardin d’Eté 
  7. Roman Amphitheatre
  8. Rue Voltaire
  9. Restaurant Carrel
  10. Yellow House
  11. Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône
  12. Musée Réattu
  13. Vincent van Gogh Foundation Arles
  14. Place du Forum
  15. Le Café Van Gogh
  16. Old Arles Hospital
  17. The Bridge of Trinquetaille
  18. Get the Downloadable PDF of the Van Gogh Arles Walking Tour!

History

Roman Arles

Arles, a large city in the French region of Provence, has a long history that dates back to Roman times. Back then, it was one of the most important cities in the Empire. There are signs of occupations as early as 800 BC. The Romans took over the town in 123 BC and continued to enrich the city with their incredible architecture and infrastructure. Emperor Constantine I built the Roman bathhouses. His son, Constantine II, was born in Arles as the emperor had made it a home away from home. In 408 BC, the new emperor Constantine made Arles the capital city of Rome. Arles became a cultural and religious centre throughout the late Roman Empire.

For hundreds of years, the city of Arles continued to hold absolute authority over those in power. Arles joined the countship of Provence in 1239. Due to its proximity to the river, it was a mighty trade city. But in the 19th century, with the advent of the railroad, its significance began to diminish. The town became stagnant, with little to no modern development.

Van Gogh Comes to Arles

But this relic from the past was precisely why Van Gogh was so drawn to the city. The city was full of memories yet peaceful enough to feel like an escape. Everywhere he looked, it seemed as if something was waiting to be discovered.

Sadly, after years of poverty and suffering from various mental illnesses, Van Gogh committed suicide at age 37. But this was not the end of his story. Despite not being appreciated during his lifetime, his impact in the history books is unmatched. And Van Gogh’s stories from Arles put the city back on the map. After years of almost being forgotten, the city suddenly was a hot spot for visitors trying to follow in his footsteps.

Accommodation

If you want to spend a night in Arles, the best place to stay is the little B&B, L’aubergine Rouge. This little hotel is tucked away in the southwest corner of Arles on one of the most darling streets you’ll ever wander down. They have several rooms inspired by the painter where you’ll feel like you’re sleeping inside of his paintings.

Access

Most people arriving in Arles arrive either by car or by train. Arles is just an hour from Marseille, 35 minutes from Nimes, and 40 minutes from Avignon if you rent a car. Often you’ll find if you are travelling from either Nimes, Marseille or Avignon, the train is often an even faster journey than driving! So long as the departure and arrival times align with your plans. The train from Nimes is 30 minutes, Marseille takes 45 minutes, and Avignon is only a 20 minutes journey. Most days, trains arrive and depart about every hour from these cities.

If you are driving into Arles for the day, the best place to park your car is in the Parking Garage near the Post Office. This is just on the outskirts of town, meaning you won’t have to drive through too many narrow streets. Since it’s a little outside the centre, you also won’t have to pay a huge mark up for being in the middle of town. This parking lot is very reasonably priced and right beside the first stop on our tour.

Walking Tour

The Alyscamps

The first stop on the walking tour is the Alyscamps Necropolis. The Alyscamps is one of the oldest Roman ruins in Arles. Roman cities didn’t allow burials inside the city limit for fear of dead infecting the living. Therefore, roads into the city were often lined with tombs and mausoleums. And the Alyscamps was THE place to be buried! People had bodies shipped from all over Europe for the honour of being buried here. 

But during the middle ages, when it became more traditional to be buried in a church graveyard, the Alyscamps fell out of fashion. In the Renaissance, old roman sarcophagi were given as gifts to visiting dignitaries. And others were looted by local thieves. All of this contributed to the Alyscamps falling into disrepair, and eventually, it was a forgotten piece of history. The site was wild and overgrown and yet a naturally beautiful environment.

Sailko, CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

When Van Gogh arrived in Arles, it was still a ruin. He painted four scenes here in 1888, sitting in front of the ancient Roman ruins. Paul Gauguin was staying with Van Gogh during this period. Although their relationship was fraught with hardship, it also inspired the best in both artists. Van Gogh gifted one of his Alyscamps paintings to Gaugin. And even lost past his death, this painting hung in Gaugin’s room for years. Since Van Gogh made it famous once more, the UNESCO World Heritage group has turned it into a heritage site. And restored much of the place to be appreciated by visitors once more.

Vincent van Gogh, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Jardin d’Eté 

Walk north along the Avenue des Alyscamps and turn left down Avenue Victor Hugo. On the north side of the street, you will begin to see the bright green grass of the Jardin d’Eté starting to peek through. 

The Jardin d’Eté is a relaxing urban park situated against the backdrop of the ancient Roman amphitheatre. There are dozens of fountains and playgrounds, so it’s a great place for kids to have a nice runaround.

For Van Gogh, it was a place he would often come to paint on sunny, summer days. In a letter to his sister, he wrote of the gardens in the park:

I don’t know whether you can understand that one may make a poem by arranging colours…Similarly, the bizarre lines, purposely selected and multiplied, meandering all through the picture may not present a literal image of the garden, but they may present it to our minds as if in a dream.

Van Gogh

Roman Amphitheatre

Walk north along the pathways in the park until you can exit to the east of the Roman Amphitheatre. You’ll walk out onto Rue Porte de Laure. Continue walking along until you reach the imposing Roman Arena. Built in 90 AD, the amphitheatre was capable of seating over 20,000 spectators. People would come from far and wide to watch chariot races and bloody hand-to-hand battles. Unlike the Colosseum in Rome, this amphitheatre is still used for concerts and festivals to this very day.

Vincent went to many bullfights in his time in Arles. He wrote to his friend: 

Have seen bullfights in the arenas. The crowd was magnificent, great multicoloured crowds. One on top of the other on 2, three tiers, with the effect of sun and shade and the shadow cast by the immense circle.

Van Gogh

Van Gogh painted a scene in 1888 entitled Arena in Arles. The painting is more focused on the spectators than the action or environment. It is a rough and tumble painting. Quick brush strokes and unfinished shapes are obscured in the background. The speed of the painting reflects the voracious atmosphere of the bullfights. A small bull can be seen off in the distance. Spectators are excitedly turning to chat with their neighbours and cheering for their favourite fighters.

This jittery motion used throughout the painting was a technique that Van Gogh perfected under Gauguin’s influence. His paintings of dance halls also had the same, almost unfinished approach. This technique conveyed to the viewer the idea that some spaces were filled with such powerful energy they simply couldn’t be captured in a moment of stillness.

Vincent van Gogh, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Rue Voltaire

From the arena, walk north along Rue Voltaire. Walking down this street is like taking a step back in time. Dozens of vibrant cafes and restaurants pour out onto the street. Dazzling awnings hang off ancient stone buildings. Pastel shutters brighten up the rainiest day. You will see so many little scenes as you walk, which could have stepped right out from one of Van Gogh’s paintings.

Restaurant Carrel

When you reach Rue Léon Blum, turn left and stop on the corner of Rue Amédée Pichot. When Van Gogh first moved to Arles, he stayed in a room above the Restaurant Carrel, owned by Albert Carrel and his wife. Vincent wrote to his brother Theo when he arrived in Arles:

At times it seems to me that my blood is more or less ready to start circulating again, which wasn’t the case lately in Paris, I really couldn’t stand it anymore.

Van Gogh

Shortly after arriving in Arles, the lack of creativity he experienced in Paris disappeared. With his creative spark alight once more, he painted View of a Butcher’s Shop. One can imagine that this butcher shop perhaps was painted from the very room he stayed in. Walking up and down this otherwise ubiquitous street gives you a sense of the area Vincent first called home in Arles.

Vincent van Gogh [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
Vincent van Gogh, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

But Van Gogh didn’t live on this street for long as he often had mighty disagreements with his landlord. While he might not have loved his landlord, he did love the neighbourhood. It wouldn’t be long until Van Gogh would soon move into his iconic Yellow House, which was just up the street.

As you near the end of the Street, Rue Voltaire turns into Rue de less Cavalerie. You will pass through the two giant aged guard towers. These towers are surrounded on either side by the ancient city walls.

Yellow House

Across the roundabout, at the corner of Rue Georges Tinarage and Avenue de Stalingrad, is a simple restaurant. But this was once where you would have found Van Gogh’s beloved home. The same one featured in his painting The Yellow House. 

The original house had four rooms and a small studio. Vincent painted the entire building bright, sunflower yellow. In the painting, you can see a train rushing by in the distance. These trains were Vincent’s way into the countryside, his beloved muse. More than any woman. He loved the city, but the wild sunflower fields, blossoming fruit trees, charming peasants and golden wheat fields were where his brush came alive.

Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône

Turning left, make your way towards the Rhone River. Here you’ll find the scene from painting Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône. Don’t get this mixed up with Starry Night, although they are both very similar and show Van Gogh’s obsession with capturing night effects. In a letter he wrote to his brother Theo, he said:

Often it seems to me the night is even more richly coloured than the day.

Van Gogh

Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône is an explosion of blue; Prussian blue, ultramarine and cobalt. Each one of these colours are contrasted with intense orange and yellow. The firery colours representing the gas lights reflecting in the water. A man and his wife walk along the shore away three boats, bobbing in the water. Whereas Starry Night is a dreamlike fury of brush strokes, Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône is a much calmer scene. The brush strokes are evenly spaced, and even the lights on the water are still. Not a single ripple seems to disturb them.

Vincent van Gogh [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
Vincent van Gogh, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Musée Réattu

Continue walking down the water’s edge. The fantastic pedestrian promenade is ideal for taking in all the sights along the river. After about five minutes, you’ll reach the Musée Réattu. When Van Gogh lived in Arles the museum was a place he hated. He is quoted as saying:

The women are beautiful here, it’s no joke — on the other hand, the Arles museum is dreadful and a joke.

Van Gogh

Van Gogh was very judgmental of other artists. Perhaps out of jealousy of those who seemed to manage to make the kind of living, he would never. During his lifetime, he only sold one painting. He couldn’t understand how people could see the greatest in these artists and not himself.

Vincent van Gogh Foundation Arles

As a cosmic coincidence, the Vincent van Gogh Foundation in Arles is located only a few minutes south of the Musée Réattu. In 1983, Yolande Clergue founded the Association for the Creation of the Foundation Van Gogh. He was a long-time resident of Arles and believed there should be an institute to study and educate people on Van Gogh’s influence on modern artists in Provence. In 2010, the city of Arles gave the historic Hôtel Léautaud de Donines to the institute. It was renovated to become an educational space.

The museum features a large collection of Van Gogh’s letters and perhaps one or two original Van Gogh paintings. Don’t come here expecting to see those famous works of art. The museum is meant to highlight modern artists influenced by Van Gogh and the city of Arles.

Place du Forum

Walking along Rue du Dr Fanton and turning down Rue de la Place, you will come up the Place du Forum. The Place du Forum was once the historic city centre during the Roman ages. You can still see one of the ancient columns embedded into the side of the Nord-Pinus Grand Hotel.

Vincent’s fixation on the appearance of the world at night continues and is highlighted in Café Terrace at Night. He said in a letter:

In the past, they used to draw, and paint the picture from the drawing in the daytime. But I find that it suits me to paint the thing straight away. It’s quite true that I may take a blue for green in the dark, a blue lilac with a pink lilac since you can’t make out the nature of the tone. But it’s the only way of getting away from the conventional black night with a poor, pallid and whitish light, while in fact, a mere candle by itself gives us the richest yellows and oranges.

Van Gogh
Vincent van Gogh [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Le Café Van Gogh

Despite Vincent’s lack of popularity in his lifetime, Van Gogh is big business these days. Le Café Van Gogh is a recreation of the original cafe from the painting. Although it’s not the authentic spots from the painting, it has been done up to look as much like the real thing as possible. While the square is pretty busy and expensive, it is also a stunning place to sit with a coffee and enjoy the scenery. 

Old Arles Hospital

Walk south from the forum until you reach the Old Arles Hospital. One evening, after Gauguin had made it clear to Vincent that he had made plans to leave, Van Gogh returned home alone. Suffering from hearing voices, especially when left alone, Van Gogh was tormented. In a fit of madness, he cut off his ear. Perhaps as a means to cut out the noise of the voices. Van Gogh bandaged the wound and wrapped the ear in the paper. He delivered it to a cleaning woman who worked at a local brothel that Gaugin and Van Gogh frequented together.

Van Gogh was found unconscious by a policeman and taken directly to the Old Arles Hospital the following day. Félix Rey, a young doctor still in training, treated him inside his hospital. Van Gogh was diagnosed with “acute mania with generalized delirium during his time in hospital.” Vincent would go from being semi-lucid to suffering from hallucinations and delusions. His brother Theo came to visit him in hospital despite getting engaged the day previous. Nothing would keep Theo from being by Vincent’s side.

Hospital in Arles

Dr. Rey felt sorry for Vincent. He would allow Vincent into the courtyard to paint on his more lucid days. And paint he did. Even today, this courtyard manages to bring a sense of peace to even the most scattered mind. The golden walls seem to glow in the sunlight. The garden is full of lustrous flowers which burst open in the afternoon. Van Gogh’s painting, Hospital in Arles, depicted the courtyard in 1888. Looking at it today, you can barely see the passage of time between the two.

Vincent van Gogh, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Ward in the Hospital in Arles

He also created two other paintings during his stay in the hospital. One was a gift to Dr. Félix Rey. It was a portrait of the beloved doctor who showed Vincent genuine kindness. The second painting is entitled Ward in the Hospital in Arles. The scene is quiet and simple. But Vincent’s slight distortions represent the isolation and confinement while living here. 

Starry Night

In 1889, Van Gogh was committed to the Saint-Paul de Mausole asylum in Saint-Rémy de Provence. From there managed to channel his pain into one of the most impactful paintings, Starry Night. This painting is all about dreams versus reality. The natural versus the divine. It brings us into the beautiful madness inside Van Gogh’s mind. In his mind, he lived in the stars, beloved and looked up to by everyone on earth. The swirling, fluid paint in the sky contrasts the rigid city landscape below. Like a window into the heavens, a wonderful dream, unlike our structured reality. 

Vincent van Gogh, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Bridge of Trinquetaille

Walking back towards the river, walk up the water’s edge. Here you can see the scene from the painting of The Bridge of Trinquetaille. Van Gogh was in love with bridges. They are frequently featured in his works. In a letter to his brother, he wrote:

I have a View of the Rhône — the Trinquetaille iron bridge, where the sky and the river are the colour of absinthe — the quays a lilac tone, the people leaning on the parapet almost black, the iron bridge an intense blue — with a bright orange note in the blue background and an intense Veronese green note. One more effort that’s far from finished — but one at least where I’m attempting something more heartbroken and therefore more heartbreaking.

Van Gogh
Vincent van Gogh, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Walk out to the centre of the Pont de Trinquetaille, where you’ll have a beautiful view across the Rhone River. Looking out, see if you can spot all those magnificent colours Van Gogh spoke about in his letter. Van Gogh is an artist whose use of colour is unparalleled. He saw the world in a way that many of us simply miss. Take this time to yourself. Put away your phone or camera for the moment and simply look over the horizon.

While Van Gogh’s depression was something he couldn’t overcome, there is no doubt that, at least for a time, Arles gave him a momentary respite from the overwhelming sadness he felt in his soul. And no matter who you are, I hope that visiting Arles brings you the same sense of peace Van Gogh felt when he was here. You may even see a little bit of that magic Van Gogh etched into history. And bring a little bit of that magic home with you too!

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