Table Of Contents

1. It's really not that cold!
2. The Lack of Tourists
3. About That Smell…
4. Accommodation & Airfare are Cheaper!
5. Use Those Savings for Something Special
6. Most Big Ticket Attractions are Inside
7. Embrace Cafe Culture
8. Discover Covered Passages
9. Skip the Noisy Construction
10. You Avoid Smokers
11. People Are Just Nicer
12. The Christmas Markets!
13. Christmas Lights & Decor
14. Winter Sales
15. Winter Fashion
16. Festival of Lights
17. Vin Chaud
18. Parisian Hot Chocolate
19. Roasted Chesnuts
20. Winter Comfort Food
21. Winter is Easy in Disneyland Paris
22. Cheaper Prices on Famous Entertainment

It’s really not that cold!

If you’re from a colder climate (like me – I’m from Canada), the winters in Paris are laughable. It seldom gets below 35°F or 2°C. Check the chart below for winter temperature predictions for Paris. For those of you from warmer climates, you might find this temperature a little chilly. But just make that an excuse to buy yourself a cute new winter wardrobe. Make being out in the cold something fun instead of something frustrating. In November and December, there is actually more rain than snow, so be sure to bring along a good umbrella. In January and February, there is more snow which creates a gorgeous white dusting across the city! There is honestly something so beautiful about the snowfall and especially when it’s across a town as beautiful as Paris!

The Lack of Tourists

If you’ve ever been to Paris in the summer or even the spring these days, you’ll see the telltale lines which seem to sweep all around the city. Paris is filled to bursting and getting into your favourite restaurant or museum always entails a lengthy wait. But in the wintertime, the tourists, scared of the “cold” stay away. And I’ll take it. And you will too! In the winter you can walk down famous streets and find them almost empty. That crowd around the Mona Lisa, maybe won’t disappear but it will be much less intense. Overall, the wintertime brings this peaceful atmosphere to a city which often gets a bad reputation as being rude, crowded and smelly!

About That Smell…

One of the biggest things I hear time and time again from people on their way back from Paris is about the smell! It smells terrible, it really does. Not everywhere, of course, but Paris, as a big city, has a big garbage problem. And garbage, along with dog pee (another prevalent issue on the streets) is responsible for the horrible smell. In the summer, the heat amplifies these smells to a thousand! But in the winter, you’ll barely notice the scent. I never had this experience when in the city except perhaps for the occasional steamy grate near the metro.

Accommodation & Airfare are Cheaper!

With this lack of tourists comes cheaper accommodation and flight prices. There are almost always flight deals during the winter months to entice visitors into the city. Take them up on that offer! Except for the dates right around Christmas, you can almost ways find a significant reduction in airfare and hotels. Prices seem to begin to increase after Easter and start going down after American Thanksgiving.

Use Those Savings for Something Special

There is only one thing better than a hot bath on a cold day. A trip to the spa! There are dozens of fantastic resorts in Paris which cater to locals who want an intimate experience in those colder months. These spas come with steam rooms, swimming pools, saunas and of course, lengthy massages. It’s the perfect way to wind down (which is what a vacation is for after all) but also to warm you up from the inside out if you’ve spent an unusually chilly day outside.

Most Big Ticket Attractions are Inside

Paris truly has the best collection of museums in the world. In such a condensed space, you’ll find hundreds of different places you’ll need to visit! And the best part, they’re all inside. Going to the Louvre in summer and winter is exactly the same experience, except for the number of tourists. Notre Dame is particularly stunning in the winter before Christmas when the entirety of the nave is decorated for the holiday season.

Visiting the underground catacombs in the winter, when the chill in the air is replaced with an oddly warm underground warmth is a truly remarkable experience. Even Versaille, which boasts some of the longest lines, is a great place to visit in the winter. If you’re lucky enough to be there when it snows, you’ll be treated to one of the most unique perspectives on this illustrious palace. And the rest of the enormous tour is all inside.

Walking around the city and seeing the incredible French architecture everywhere you look is an unmissable part of the Parisian experience. But the fact that you can duck into a museum or indoor attraction every few minutes is a great relief for anyone who doesn’t like to be outside for too too long. You can’t walk very far without finding something which will catch your attention.

Embrace Cafe Culture

Another way of escape the cold, if you are getting a bit too chilly on your wanderings, is to duck into one of the many cafes which Paris is so famous for. If you’re a millennial, it seems impossible not to have escaped the lasting impression which the film ‘Amelie’ had on our young minds. Cafes in Paris are THE place to be to soak in the local ambience and sip smooth coffee. Winter means it’s ok to pack on those pounds and hide them under layers. So indulge yourself in the pastries which these cafes serve up by the dozen! Vacation is no time to retrain yourself, have a little fun and satisfy your taste buds!

Discover Covered Passages

Most Metro stations will stop off underground. Inside these little underground passageways are covered arcades and secret entrances to some top attractions. The Louvre’s default (and extremely crowded) entrance is outside near the glass pyramids. But most people don’t know it can also be accessed underground, without ever having to go outside, directly from the Metro station. And in fact, this entrance is FAR less busy since it’s not out in the open where people like to take their pictures. In addition to hidden entries, you’ll also find underground shopping centres. Paris’ covered passages were built during the early 19th century, sort of like Europe answer to North American malls. The oldest of these passages is the Passage des Panoramas which dates back to 1799! During the wintertime, the window displays are lushly styled, and at Christmas, they are a feast for the eyes!

Skip the Noisy Construction

In an old city like Paris, construction is almost constant. If you’ve ever been woken up by noisy jack-hammering on your relaxing vacation, you know how annoying this can be. But in the winter, when it’s colder, it’s much harder to do construction work, and therefore this noise is significantly reduced. If you’ve ever dreamt of visiting a specific attraction only to show up and see its covered ins scaffolding you’ll know how disappointing this can be. Sure this might be unavoidable, but in the winter you’ll have a better chance of it not being under construction.

You Avoid Smokers

There are lots of smokers in Paris. It’s one of those cities where this vice is still hanging on. In the summer, everyone on the street seems to have a cigarette in their hands. If you’re like me and hate the smell of this stuff, then you’ll find that in the winter, fewer people are willing to take those smoke breaks, to avoid standing out in the cold.

People Are Just Nicer

I’ve you’re a resident of a famous tourist city, anywhere in the world, you’ll know what it’s like to be invaded by hoards of tourists every summer. In Toronto, right in the centre of downtown, the streets seem to erupt with tourists. And while it’s great for the economy and brings in lots of exciting events and festivals, it means transit is more crowded, streets are filled with slow walkers (my personal bane), and pretty much everything has a line. In Paris, it’s no different, so its no surprise to find that locals are just a little bit grumpier in the summer when they can’t move about their own city.

The French already have a bad rep for being rude, so add the heat and humidity of summer on top of the crowds, and you’ve got a recipe for disaster. But in the winter, people seem more relaxed. More accepting and inviting. You made an effort to come here at a time when others don’t. There appears to be a silent appreciation which they give tourists around wintertime, which I think is just peachy.

The Christmas Markets!

Despite the week of actual Christmas being pricey, the early parts of December are still pretty affordable. And with December comes Christmas markets! Europe does Christmas better than anyone else, and Christmas markets are one of the most beautiful ways to enjoy the holiday season. Wander the wooden huts of the market outdoors under the watchful eye of Paris’ splendid architecture. Visiting a Christmas market is one of the best places to do your Christmas shopping. You can find such unique treasures which your friends and family will just gush over! There are markets all over the city and even one at the base of the Eiffel Tower, what better ambience could you ask for?

Christmas Lights & Decor

Once again, this only applies if you’re visiting before, or just after Christmas, but the Christmas decorations around the city during the holidays are honestly magical. I freak out over fairy lights and Christmas trees and travelling anywhere in Europe during the holidays means this in spades!

Winter Sales

Many many people come to Paris to shop. And with good reason, Paris is the fashion captial of the world, and some of the most luxurious brands have their flagship stores here. Even if you’re not into those uber expensive brands, the dribble down effect is real, and many extremely affordable local brands also have some fantastic shops here. In the winter, there are government-mandated sales in Paris where stores cut their prices down on almost everything! This usually happens between early January and early Feb. The famous Galeries Lafayette is one of the best shopping malls to hit up to find rows and rows of deals all in one easy to find place! And the best part – it’s indoors!

Winter Fashion

Being the fashion capital of the world, means you’re going to see just how good winter can look on the French. And you might even be able to grab some of this style for yourself! Learning how to dress stylishly for the winter is a skill, and there’s nowhere better to learn that in France. Sit at your favourite cafe, and people watch. Study their looks, fabulous coats, boot and hat combinations as they walk by. You can spend an entire afternoon doing this, much better than rifling through a magazine.

Festival of Lights

From November 18th to January 19th, the Jardin des Plantes (Garden of Plants) hosts an incredible exhibition of enormous lanterns set amongst the greenery of the garden. Each one is designed to look like a different part of the ocean, which is a nice juxtaposition outdoors on land. It’s a fantastical place to explore for adults and kids alike. This exhibition is only on during the winter when the plants have all died out and yet they are interested in still getting visitors to come out to see the rest of the gardens.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Vin Chaud

France is known for its wines. But what you might not know is that during the wintertime they indulge in vin chaud (hot wine). This is similar to the North American tradition of mulled wine but made in a French fashion. It’s served at most cafes and markets places and makes for the perfect drink to keep you all warm and fuzzy as the sun sets at night.

Parisian Hot Chocolate

If you’re not someone who drinks alcohol or are travelling with children, there is another traditional beverage you can’t miss, and that’s hot chocolate. While it might seem like a childish treat, Chocolat Chaud in France is rich, decadent and is made from wonderfully high-quality chocolate! It’s a fantastic treat for young and old alike. And just doesn’t take the same on a hot summer day. No, as the snow falls, there is nothing better in your hand than a cup of this creamy liquid!

Roasted Chesnuts

Chestnuts have long been a staple of the Parisian winter season, and vendors can be found on nearly every street corner selling the warm, sweet treats. The chestnuts are roasted over open flames, creating a smoky fragrance that entices passerby. Taking a break from exploring the city to enjoy a handful of hot, fresh chestnuts is a timeless tradition for both Parisians and visitors alike. Whether enjoyed as a snack or paired with a warm mulled wine, winter roasted chestnuts are a true delight of the season.

Winter Comfort Food

Every country has its own way of dealing with the cold, and in France, they did it through the cusine. Winter foods in France are rich and hearty. They warm you from the inside out. They are full of fatty meats, heavy starches and sweets mixed in for good measure. Stews, cassoulets and confits are all just some of the marvellous foods you’ll find on the menu in the winter. No one would imagine serving a casserole in the heat of the summer, so getting a chance to try these fantastic meals is something you’ll only get in the winter!

Winter is Easy in Disneyland Paris

Disneyland Paris might not be on every traveller’s list, but if you’re a Disney-head like me, you’ll know it should be. Like almost every Disneyland in the world, one of the most significant downsides of visiting is the crowds. But in the winter, you’ll find the lines are almost twice as short as any other time in the year. And the fact that half the rides are indoors is a great incentive to ensure you’re not out in the cold all day. Around Christmastime, the entire park is decorated for the holiday season in magical baubles and sparkling garlands which just amplifies the already enchanting atmosphere.

Cheaper Prices on Famous Entertainment

With fewer tourists, come discounted ticket prices on almost everything to incentivize both locals and tourists alike to attend shows. Palais Garnier, one of the most famous architectural masterpieces in the city, hosts opera and ballet performances all year and during the wintertime, you can find tickets for a fraction of the cost. Even try to go up on the day and see what’s left, and you might find yourself with front row seats for the price of the nose bleeds. Even if you don’t know anything about the performance, being inside this historic building and seeing all its luxury and elegance is entertainment enough.

All in all, visiting in the colder winter months has so many wonderful advantages; you’ll just have to try it out for yourself to see if they stack up to any perceived negatives! What’s your favourite place to travel to in the winter? Let me know in the comments.

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Why Visiting Paris in the Winter is the Best Time to Explore this Amazing City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

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Van Gogh was born in Zundert but spent one of the most important years of his life as a painter in Arles, France. Arles and the provincial countryside inspired Van Gogh to create brighter and more exciting landscapes. This walking tour will wind you across the city, through its narrow, quaint and beautiful cobblestone backstreets. Our journey takes us along the Rhone River and into the various picturesque squares that Arles is famous for. The walking tour will show you the various works of art that Van Gogh painted while living in Arles and the buildings he frequented as a resident of this historic city. 

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Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Accommodation
3. Access
4. Walking Tour
5. The Alyscamps
6. Jardin d’Eté 
7. Roman Amphitheatre
8. Rue Voltaire
9. Restaurant Carrel
10. Yellow House
11. Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône
12. Musée Réattu
13. Vincent van Gogh Foundation Arles
14. Place du Forum
15. Le Café Van Gogh
16. Old Arles Hospital
17. The Bridge of Trinquetaille
18. Get the Downloadable PDF of the Van Gogh Arles Walking Tour!

History

Roman Arles

Arles, a large city in the French region of Provence, has a long history that dates back to Roman times. Back then, it was one of the most important cities in the Empire. There are signs of occupations as early as 800 BC. The Romans took over the town in 123 BC and continued to enrich the city with their incredible architecture and infrastructure. Emperor Constantine I built the Roman bathhouses. His son, Constantine II, was born in Arles as the emperor had made it a home away from home. In 408 BC, the new emperor Constantine made Arles the capital city of Rome. Arles became a cultural and religious centre throughout the late Roman Empire.

For hundreds of years, the city of Arles continued to hold absolute authority over those in power. Arles joined the countship of Provence in 1239. Due to its proximity to the river, it was a mighty trade city. But in the 19th century, with the advent of the railroad, its significance began to diminish. The town became stagnant, with little to no modern development.

Van Gogh Comes to Arles

But this relic from the past was precisely why Van Gogh was so drawn to the city. The city was full of memories yet peaceful enough to feel like an escape. Everywhere he looked, it seemed as if something was waiting to be discovered.

Sadly, after years of poverty and suffering from various mental illnesses, Van Gogh committed suicide at age 37. But this was not the end of his story. Despite not being appreciated during his lifetime, his impact in the history books is unmatched. And Van Gogh’s stories from Arles put the city back on the map. After years of almost being forgotten, the city suddenly was a hot spot for visitors trying to follow in his footsteps.

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Accommodation

If you want to spend a night in Arles, the best place to stay is the little B&B, L’aubergine Rouge. This little hotel is tucked away in the southwest corner of Arles on one of the most darling streets you’ll ever wander down. They have several rooms inspired by the painter where you’ll feel like you’re sleeping inside of his paintings.

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Access

Most people arriving in Arles arrive either by car or by train. Arles is just an hour from Marseille, 35 minutes from Nimes, and 40 minutes from Avignon if you rent a car. Often you’ll find if you are travelling from either Nimes, Marseille or Avignon, the train is often an even faster journey than driving! So long as the departure and arrival times align with your plans. The train from Nimes is 30 minutes, Marseille takes 45 minutes, and Avignon is only a 20 minutes journey. Most days, trains arrive and depart about every hour from these cities.

If you are driving into Arles for the day, the best place to park your car is in the Parking Garage near the Post Office. This is just on the outskirts of town, meaning you won’t have to drive through too many narrow streets. Since it’s a little outside the centre, you also won’t have to pay a huge mark up for being in the middle of town. This parking lot is very reasonably priced and right beside the first stop on our tour.

Walking Tour

The Alyscamps

The first stop on the walking tour is the Alyscamps Necropolis. The Alyscamps is one of the oldest Roman ruins in Arles. Roman cities didn’t allow burials inside the city limit for fear of dead infecting the living. Therefore, roads into the city were often lined with tombs and mausoleums. And the Alyscamps was THE place to be buried! People had bodies shipped from all over Europe for the honour of being buried here. 

But during the middle ages, when it became more traditional to be buried in a church graveyard, the Alyscamps fell out of fashion. In the Renaissance, old roman sarcophagi were given as gifts to visiting dignitaries. And others were looted by local thieves. All of this contributed to the Alyscamps falling into disrepair, and eventually, it was a forgotten piece of history. The site was wild and overgrown and yet a naturally beautiful environment.

When Van Gogh arrived in Arles, it was still a ruin. He painted four scenes here in 1888, sitting in front of the ancient Roman ruins. Paul Gauguin was staying with Van Gogh during this period. Although their relationship was fraught with hardship, it also inspired the best in both artists. Van Gogh gifted one of his Alyscamps paintings to Gaugin. And even lost past his death, this painting hung in Gaugin’s room for years. Since Van Gogh made it famous once more, the UNESCO World Heritage group has turned it into a heritage site. And restored much of the place to be appreciated by visitors once more.

Jardin d’Eté 

Walk north along the Avenue des Alyscamps and turn left down Avenue Victor Hugo. On the north side of the street, you will begin to see the bright green grass of the Jardin d’Eté starting to peek through. 

The Jardin d’Eté is a relaxing urban park situated against the backdrop of the ancient Roman amphitheatre. There are dozens of fountains and playgrounds, so it’s a great place for kids to have a nice runaround.

For Van Gogh, it was a place he would often come to paint on sunny, summer days. In a letter to his sister, he wrote of the gardens in the park:

I don’t know whether you can understand that one may make a poem by arranging colours…Similarly, the bizarre lines, purposely selected and multiplied, meandering all through the picture may not present a literal image of the garden, but they may present it to our minds as if in a dream.

Van Gogh

Roman Amphitheatre

Walk north along the pathways in the park until you can exit to the east of the Roman Amphitheatre. You’ll walk out onto Rue Porte de Laure. Continue walking along until you reach the imposing Roman Arena. Built in 90 AD, the amphitheatre was capable of seating over 20,000 spectators. People would come from far and wide to watch chariot races and bloody hand-to-hand battles. Unlike the Colosseum in Rome, this amphitheatre is still used for concerts and festivals to this very day.

Vincent went to many bullfights in his time in Arles. He wrote to his friend: 

Have seen bullfights in the arenas. The crowd was magnificent, great multicoloured crowds. One on top of the other on 2, three tiers, with the effect of sun and shade and the shadow cast by the immense circle.

Van Gogh

Van Gogh painted a scene in 1888 entitled Arena in Arles. The painting is more focused on the spectators than the action or environment. It is a rough and tumble painting. Quick brush strokes and unfinished shapes are obscured in the background. The speed of the painting reflects the voracious atmosphere of the bullfights. A small bull can be seen off in the distance. Spectators are excitedly turning to chat with their neighbours and cheering for their favourite fighters.

This jittery motion used throughout the painting was a technique that Van Gogh perfected under Gauguin’s influence. His paintings of dance halls also had the same, almost unfinished approach. This technique conveyed to the viewer the idea that some spaces were filled with such powerful energy they simply couldn’t be captured in a moment of stillness.

Rue Voltaire

From the arena, walk north along Rue Voltaire. Walking down this street is like taking a step back in time. Dozens of vibrant cafes and restaurants pour out onto the street. Dazzling awnings hang off ancient stone buildings. Pastel shutters brighten up the rainiest day. You will see so many little scenes as you walk, which could have stepped right out from one of Van Gogh’s paintings.

Restaurant Carrel

When you reach Rue Léon Blum, turn left and stop on the corner of Rue Amédée Pichot. When Van Gogh first moved to Arles, he stayed in a room above the Restaurant Carrel, owned by Albert Carrel and his wife. Vincent wrote to his brother Theo when he arrived in Arles:

At times it seems to me that my blood is more or less ready to start circulating again, which wasn’t the case lately in Paris, I really couldn’t stand it anymore.

Van Gogh

Shortly after arriving in Arles, the lack of creativity he experienced in Paris disappeared. With his creative spark alight once more, he painted View of a Butcher’s Shop. One can imagine that this butcher shop perhaps was painted from the very room he stayed in. Walking up and down this otherwise ubiquitous street gives you a sense of the area Vincent first called home in Arles.

But Van Gogh didn’t live on this street for long as he often had mighty disagreements with his landlord. While he might not have loved his landlord, he did love the neighbourhood. It wouldn’t be long until Van Gogh would soon move into his iconic Yellow House, which was just up the street.

As you near the end of the Street, Rue Voltaire turns into Rue de less Cavalerie. You will pass through the two giant aged guard towers. These towers are surrounded on either side by the ancient city walls.

Yellow House

Across the roundabout, at the corner of Rue Georges Tinarage and Avenue de Stalingrad, is a simple restaurant. But this was once where you would have found Van Gogh’s beloved home. The same one featured in his painting The Yellow House. 

The original house had four rooms and a small studio. Vincent painted the entire building bright, sunflower yellow. In the painting, you can see a train rushing by in the distance. These trains were Vincent’s way into the countryside, his beloved muse. More than any woman. He loved the city, but the wild sunflower fields, blossoming fruit trees, charming peasants and golden wheat fields were where his brush came alive.

Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône

Turning left, make your way towards the Rhone River. Here you’ll find the scene from painting Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône. Don’t get this mixed up with Starry Night, although they are both very similar and show Van Gogh’s obsession with capturing night effects. In a letter he wrote to his brother Theo, he said:

Often it seems to me the night is even more richly coloured than the day.

Van Gogh

Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône is an explosion of blue; Prussian blue, ultramarine and cobalt. Each one of these colours are contrasted with intense orange and yellow. The firery colours representing the gas lights reflecting in the water. A man and his wife walk along the shore away three boats, bobbing in the water. Whereas Starry Night is a dreamlike fury of brush strokes, Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône is a much calmer scene. The brush strokes are evenly spaced, and even the lights on the water are still. Not a single ripple seems to disturb them.

Musée Réattu

Continue walking down the water’s edge. The fantastic pedestrian promenade is ideal for taking in all the sights along the river. After about five minutes, you’ll reach the Musée Réattu. When Van Gogh lived in Arles the museum was a place he hated. He is quoted as saying:

The women are beautiful here, it’s no joke — on the other hand, the Arles museum is dreadful and a joke.

Van Gogh

Van Gogh was very judgmental of other artists. Perhaps out of jealousy of those who seemed to manage to make the kind of living, he would never. During his lifetime, he only sold one painting. He couldn’t understand how people could see the greatest in these artists and not himself.

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Vincent van Gogh Foundation Arles

As a cosmic coincidence, the Vincent van Gogh Foundation in Arles is located only a few minutes south of the Musée Réattu. In 1983, Yolande Clergue founded the Association for the Creation of the Foundation Van Gogh. He was a long-time resident of Arles and believed there should be an institute to study and educate people on Van Gogh’s influence on modern artists in Provence. In 2010, the city of Arles gave the historic Hôtel Léautaud de Donines to the institute. It was renovated to become an educational space.

The museum features a large collection of Van Gogh’s letters and perhaps one or two original Van Gogh paintings. Don’t come here expecting to see those famous works of art. The museum is meant to highlight modern artists influenced by Van Gogh and the city of Arles.

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Place du Forum

Walking along Rue du Dr Fanton and turning down Rue de la Place, you will come up the Place du Forum. The Place du Forum was once the historic city centre during the Roman ages. You can still see one of the ancient columns embedded into the side of the Nord-Pinus Grand Hotel.

Vincent’s fixation on the appearance of the world at night continues and is highlighted in Café Terrace at Night. He said in a letter:

In the past, they used to draw, and paint the picture from the drawing in the daytime. But I find that it suits me to paint the thing straight away. It’s quite true that I may take a blue for green in the dark, a blue lilac with a pink lilac since you can’t make out the nature of the tone. But it’s the only way of getting away from the conventional black night with a poor, pallid and whitish light, while in fact, a mere candle by itself gives us the richest yellows and oranges.

Van Gogh

Le Café Van Gogh

Despite Vincent’s lack of popularity in his lifetime, Van Gogh is big business these days. Le Café Van Gogh is a recreation of the original cafe from the painting. Although it’s not the authentic spots from the painting, it has been done up to look as much like the real thing as possible. While the square is pretty busy and expensive, it is also a stunning place to sit with a coffee and enjoy the scenery. 

Old Arles Hospital

Walk south from the forum until you reach the Old Arles Hospital. One evening, after Gauguin had made it clear to Vincent that he had made plans to leave, Van Gogh returned home alone. Suffering from hearing voices, especially when left alone, Van Gogh was tormented. In a fit of madness, he cut off his ear. Perhaps as a means to cut out the noise of the voices. Van Gogh bandaged the wound and wrapped the ear in the paper. He delivered it to a cleaning woman who worked at a local brothel that Gaugin and Van Gogh frequented together.

Van Gogh was found unconscious by a policeman and taken directly to the Old Arles Hospital the following day. Félix Rey, a young doctor still in training, treated him inside his hospital. Van Gogh was diagnosed with “acute mania with generalized delirium during his time in hospital.” Vincent would go from being semi-lucid to suffering from hallucinations and delusions. His brother Theo came to visit him in hospital despite getting engaged the day previous. Nothing would keep Theo from being by Vincent’s side.

Hospital in Arles

Dr. Rey felt sorry for Vincent. He would allow Vincent into the courtyard to paint on his more lucid days. And paint he did. Even today, this courtyard manages to bring a sense of peace to even the most scattered mind. The golden walls seem to glow in the sunlight. The garden is full of lustrous flowers which burst open in the afternoon. Van Gogh’s painting, Hospital in Arles, depicted the courtyard in 1888. Looking at it today, you can barely see the passage of time between the two.

Ward in the Hospital in Arles

He also created two other paintings during his stay in the hospital. One was a gift to Dr. Félix Rey. It was a portrait of the beloved doctor who showed Vincent genuine kindness. The second painting is entitled Ward in the Hospital in Arles. The scene is quiet and simple. But Vincent’s slight distortions represent the isolation and confinement while living here. 

Starry Night

In 1889, Van Gogh was committed to the Saint-Paul de Mausole asylum in Saint-Rémy de Provence. From there managed to channel his pain into one of the most impactful paintings, Starry Night. This painting is all about dreams versus reality. The natural versus the divine. It brings us into the beautiful madness inside Van Gogh’s mind. In his mind, he lived in the stars, beloved and looked up to by everyone on earth. The swirling, fluid paint in the sky contrasts the rigid city landscape below. Like a window into the heavens, a wonderful dream, unlike our structured reality. 

The Bridge of Trinquetaille

Walking back towards the river, walk up the water’s edge. Here you can see the scene from the painting of The Bridge of Trinquetaille. Van Gogh was in love with bridges. They are frequently featured in his works. In a letter to his brother, he wrote:

I have a View of the Rhône — the Trinquetaille iron bridge, where the sky and the river are the colour of absinthe — the quays a lilac tone, the people leaning on the parapet almost black, the iron bridge an intense blue — with a bright orange note in the blue background and an intense Veronese green note. One more effort that’s far from finished — but one at least where I’m attempting something more heartbroken and therefore more heartbreaking.

Van Gogh

Walk out to the centre of the Pont de Trinquetaille, where you’ll have a beautiful view across the Rhone River. Looking out, see if you can spot all those magnificent colours Van Gogh spoke about in his letter. Van Gogh is an artist whose use of colour is unparalleled. He saw the world in a way that many of us simply miss. Take this time to yourself. Put away your phone or camera for the moment and simply look over the horizon.

While Van Gogh’s depression was something he couldn’t overcome, there is no doubt that, at least for a time, Arles gave him a momentary respite from the overwhelming sadness he felt in his soul. And no matter who you are, I hope that visiting Arles brings you the same sense of peace Van Gogh felt when he was here. You may even see a little bit of that magic Van Gogh etched into history. And bring a little bit of that magic home with you too!

Get the Downloadable PDF of the Van Gogh Arles Walking Tour!

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The building was constructed in the Art Nouveau style. Art Nouveau architecture in the Czech Republic was made famous partly due to the success of painter, Alphonse Mucha. Mucha’s pieces featured images of curvy women with long, organically flowing hair, surrounded by leaves and swirling facades.

The features that separate Art Nouveau from other architectural designs are it’s obsession with asymmetry, embracing natural elements like; flower, vine, insect wings, and buds. These objects all have graceful lines and a rhythmical force. In Art Nouveau architecture there is a substantial use of ironwork, glass, ceramics and brickwork. There is a desire for lightness in the construction instead of reason and structure.

Inside the Municipal House contains a small but sparkling cafe called the “Kavarna Obecni Dum. Inside this sparkling cafe are some of the best original art nouveau decorations from all over the world. It’s like dining inside a museum. The windows are a stunning example of the importance of light in art nouveau design. The chandeliers are another eye-catching feature that you can’t help but stare up at.

Towards the back of the cafe is a large marble statue of the Carrara Nymph, standing against the wall like the guardian of the cafe.

Even the smallest details are styled to match the architecture around it. From the dishes to the menu, everything follows suit. Although this place has since become mainly a tourist spot, it still maintains the pleasant atmosphere reminiscent of what Prague would have been like in 1920’s.

The menu contains an array of Czech dishes and classic cafe favourites We watched intently as the cake trolley was pushed around from table to table, thinking only of dessert even as we ate our delicious dinners.

We picked out an assorted berry cheesecake to finish off our meal, but there were also walnut cakes with whipped cream, raspberry temptations or Schwarzwald cherry cakes which all look delicious.

I also ordered a Rose Tonic Water which was one of the best non-alcoholic drinks I’ve ever had. We tried to find it elsewhere throughout Europe, but this was the only time we managed to track it down.

Kavárna Obecní Dům café is the least expensive of all the restaurants inside the Municipal House but looking up at all the richly decorated decor you’d never believe it. If you have a little more to spend, check out one of their other more upscale restaurants which will treat you like a Bohemia King or Queen for a day.

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I am allergic to cats and bunnies aren’t my thing. I adore owls. Their abjectly grumpy personalities, their beautiful feathers and their creepy eyes. So we threw caution to the wind, didn’t bother looking on yelp, and ventured in.

We paid $8 each to enter the “cafe”. The admission came with a free drink and as much time as we wanted to spend inside the “jungle” themed cafe. We went up a narrow set of stairs into the Jungle Owl Cafe. Everyone inside was VERY nice and seemed to treat the owls as any one of us would treat our pets. That being said, almost right away we felt sad looking at these owls tied up inside this relatively small space. I think in retrospect we should have spent more time researching. But I will say, that this cafe, unlike many many other, ensures that the light inside is very dark, as the animal are nocturnal and sleep during the day. This cafe also didn’t allow you to pet all the owls, and some were only for observation.

These owls wearing Halloween themed witch hat looks sad, but they’re just sleeping. And in case you’re wondering – the hats are only balancing on their heads, not fixed on there or anything…not that that makes it that much better.

The habit which the owls were perched on was quite lovely. The “jungle” theme was more forest like but did give the feeling of being in the outdoors.

We sat inside the “cafe” part of the shop where they had a few chairs and some vending machine. Dan went to get a drink while I came across this lone tiny owl and gingerly tried giving it a pet. He/she was a very sweet creature and didn’t seem to mind me saying hello. I didn’t wanna press my luck too far and decided just to have a little chat with him while waiting for Dan.

Dan’s favourite part of the day was playing with this vending machine which gave you a live view of the coffee being made inside the machine as you ordered it. Pretty funky.

The few owls they did have out which you could pet were TERRIFYING! It’s only when you see these things in person, up close, that you’re like, “Oh right, this is a wild animal that should probably not be locked up in here and most likely won’t love me poking it…..”

The best part of the place was a cute little dog the owner had named “Gigi” who was the sweetest little puppy. Dan had a lovely cuddle with her while romantic music played over the speakers. True love.

The snowy owl was the cutest and softest thing I’d even touched, but I couldn’t help feeling sorry for the poor thing. After we left we just felt awful. I suppose that’s why I’m writing this. To let others know. I will say once more; we never got the sense while in here that the animals were being poorly treat. All the people working there were so kind, gentle and clearly cared for them. But do they belong in here? No. Beautiful as they may be, they might be better observed in the wild or in a book or on tv. Sometimes travel provides lessons learned along the way; this was one of those days.

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