Day One – The Highlights

St. Mark’s Square

The best place to start your tour is standing in the centre of the Piazza San Marco or St. Mark’s Square. Arrive here as early as you can bear. There is something truly magical about being here as the sun rises on the square. You’ll see the beautiful rose-gold sunlight begin to kiss the cobblestone and bricks around you. The sun seems to bring the square to life as cafe owners begin taking out their chairs and pigeons flock around gawking tourists (but don’t feed them, this is now illegal in Venice!)

Standing in the centre of the square, in front of the Basilica, you can turn around 360 degrees and see one spectacular scene on top of another. In this one small area, you’ll find the St Mark’s Basilica, the great Campanile (Belltower), the Procuratie, the Piazzetta, Doge’s Palace, Bridge of Sighs and Torre dell’ Orologio. There is rarely a time when you’ll visit the square when they aren’t some form of construction or renovation going on. With all these historic sights in one place, there is bound to be something falling apart and needing repair. Try to look past that and don’t like it ruin your experience.

Saint Mark

The square is named after the patron saint of Venice, Saint Mark. In 828, a relic of St. Mark was stolen from Alexandria and brought back to Venice by La Serenissima‘s great naval fleet. The Venetian Doge, awed by the acquisition of this precious relic, adopted Saint Mark as the new patron of Venice (whose honour had previously been given to Saint Theodore).

A city with a saintly relic immediately rose in power and prestige. Relics were the first tourist attraction of the medieval world. Pilgrims would come from all over the world to pray at the churches who preserved these relics. Pilgrims, much as tourists today, needed food and shelter and therefore brought lots of money into the city.

Piazza San Marco

A grand church to house the precious artifact began to be built in 836. The church and the nearby Doge’s palace were, even back then, the highlight of the city for visitors. And a great square was needed to further showcase the opulence the Doge wanted to project. In 1172 orchards were demolished surrounding this area and the Piazza San Marco was built. It’s been rumoured that upon visiting St. Mark’s square for the first time, Napoleon himself degreed that it was, “the drawing room of Europe“.

The Procuratie

The simplistic and yet elegant buildings along the north and south sides of the square are called the Procuratie. The Procuratie is most identifiable by its stunning arcade that wraps around this side of the square. The arcade features Byzantine arches, which are distinct for their tall and narrow structure.

The Procuratie buildings are actually three connected structures that once served as the offices of the Venetian Republic, also called La Serenissima. Today they house the Correr Museum, the Museum of the Risorgimento, and the Archeological Museum. Each one of these is an incredible place to visit but the Correr Museum is my favourite with their collection of art detailing the histories of the city of Venice.

The Lion of Venice

Throughout St. Mark’s square you’ll see various Lions of Venice, adorning doorways, columns and facades. The Lion of Venice is usually seen with his paw upon a bible as he is not just any lion, but St. Mark’s Lion. St. Mark was often referred to as a lion since he would preach the word of the lord so powerfully it almost seemed like a roar. Legend tells that St. Mark was travelling through Europe when he arrived in Venice and an angel spoke to him and told him that this place would be where his body would come to rest for eternity. His remains were originally interred in Alexandra but moved to Venice where the church was built to honour them.

Caffe Florian

Now housed inside one of the old Procuratie buildings is perhaps the most sumptuous cafes in Venice, or perhaps Europe itself. Although this cafe is by no means cheap, it’s a splurge that I think is worth it for the incredible interiors and history to be found within. The Caffe Florian was founded in 1720 and has served patrons like Charles Dickens and Lord Byron. There is a 6 euro cover charge to even enter the cafe, but along with getting to enjoy the lavish interiors, you’ll also be treated to a live orchestra which plays throughout the cafe. Palacial red velvet couches and chairs are spread out across the huge cafe, dotted throughout various antechambers. Each room is covered in ornate paintings, large Murano glass mirrors, gold foiled frames and intricate painting plastered to the ceiling.

To save a bit of money here, go right to the bar and order your food or drinks there. Although you won’t get a seat, the bar menu is vastly cheaper than the table service. An espresso at the bar will run you €5 but again, you’re here for the atmosphere. If you’d rather save your coin you can give this a miss for sure. Instead grab a coffee on your way in towards St. Mark’s square from any local cafe, to enjoy while you peruse the sights.

The Campanile

Standing guard in the centre of the square is the 323ft tall Campanile or Belltower. The low-level buildings throughout Venice are in stark contrast to the towering Campanile. Its little head pokes out at you no matter where you seem to end up in Venice. While the original tower was built in 1514, the current one is a reconstruction from 1912 after it’s collapse in 1902. It’s an incredible thing to imagine that such a tall structure could survive for so long-standing atop the shifting waters. But it wasn’t water which proved to be the biggest enemy of the tower, it was lighting. Lightning struck the tower multiple times over the years causing enormous fires and severe internal damage to the structure.

The tall base of the tower is designed with a fluted shaft that reaches up towards the belfry. Along one corner, one each side of the tower, are stacked arched windows looking out over the square. Inside the belfry are five large bells. Each one was used to call the people of Venice to attention. The bells have their own distinctive name and special significance. The Renghiera bell announced executions; the Mezza Terza would declare that a session of the Senate was taking place; the Nona sounded the midday hour; the Trottiera was used to assemble the Maggiore Consiglio and the Marangona, the largest of the bells, rang to mark the beginning and end of the working day.  

The Tower’s Crown

Above the arches of the belfry is another level of brickwork decorated with various sculptures on either side. On one side you’ll see the Lion of St. Mark and on the other the female representation of Venice, in the shape of the lady Justice. The golden weathervane which crowns the tower is the angel Gabriel, reaching out towards the citizens below.

Torre Dell’Orologio

Turn to the north-east corner of the square, and look up at the bright blue and gold details decorating the Torre Dell’Orologio. The morning light, the sunlight simply glints off the golden dial. The clock was built in the 15th century when mechanical clocks were a symbol of wealth and power. The clock faces out towards the water so that any foreign ships would be able to see it from the canals as they past through.

Atop the tower containing the clock, you can see two small bronze figures who carry large hammers in their hand which move upon the hour to strike the bell. One of the figures is a young man and the other an old man to symbolize the passage of time. Once more we see the image of the Lion of Venice above the clock, set against a blue sky of golden stars. Below the lion is the figure of the Virgin Mary with the baby Jesus wrapped in her arms. On either side of her are two blue panels with the time represented in roman numerals on the left and in Arabic numerals on the right, as was traditional at the time when the Byzantine influences were ripe throughout Italy.

The Zodiac Symbols on the Clock

The most impressive feature of the clock is the blue and gold engraved clock face with fantastically detailed signs of the zodiac encircling it. The large dial on the clock is set with the huge face of the sun. The dial, emblazed with the image of the sun, revolves around the zodiac signs and rather than showing the time, it marks the date. In the centre is a small gold orb representing the sun and below it, a smaller orb representing the phases of the moon.

St Mark’s Basilica

St. Mark’s Basilica is famously one of the most precious Byzantine treasures of the time. Within it, preserved by time, are so many aspects of history, art culture and faith. The most notable element of the design of the church are the powerful domes that are set against the sky. The bulb-shaped domes with their finials lanterns give the church that middle eastern appearance and character which defined the Byzantine period.

The exterior of St. Mark’s Basilica can be studied by its three distinctive areas; the lower level, upper level and the domes. The lower level mosaics are all scenes from the life of Saint Mark, for whom the church derives its name. In the central arch where the enormous doorway is located there is the largest mosaic which depicts the Last Judgment. The original mosaic would have been made in the 13th century but this current incarnation from the 19th-century. The portals which lead into the church are stacked with various colours of marble, creating a foreshortening perspective effect. Like you are being pulled into the church.

Mosaics of St. Mark’s Basilica

On either side of the central portal, the mosaics each depict the life of St. Mark. The first one on the left is the only one on the façade still surviving from the 13th century. The lunettes above the first floor depict the life of Christ. The lower level features dozens of marble columns. These rich columns are decorated in sumptuous vegetal motifs.

The Bronze Horses

The upper-level balcony, above the main entrance, also features four bronze horses. There are the Horses of Saint Mark-Lysippos and were stolen from Constantinople in 1252. The ones outside the church today are actually replicas of the original horses, as the originals were suffering terribly from the elements. They were brought inside the church museum in order to preserve them for years to come. The original bronze horses date all the way back to classical antiquity. It is rumoured that perhaps they once were positioned pulling an emperors chariot atop the Arch of Trajan in Rome. The Horses were one of the many trophies collected during the Crusades.

Above the horses, the ogee arch is decorated with blue glass and golden stars. In fro of this starry sky is the gilded winged lion, the symbol of Venice. Above the great lion, standing brightly against the blue sky, are Saint Mark and his six angels.

Entering St. Mark’s Basilica

If you are interested in going inside the Basilica, be warned the queue can get very long. But if you want to save yourself a bit of time you can book a timed entry ticket online that only costs €6.00. Well worth it, in my opinion, to be sure you are the first one in the door, leaving the rest of your day completely open.

If you don’t buy your ticket in advance, you will have to line up. The wait time is, on average, about 45 minutes but the earlier you arrive in the morning, the less of a line you’ll run into. When we arrived, early in the day, the line moved swiftly and we barely had to wait at all. But of course, this depends on the time of year you visit.

Interior Mosaics

Upon entering the church the first thing you’ll notice is the overwhelming amount of golden mosaics covering the floor, all the way up to the domed ceiling. There are over 85,000 square feet of mosaics in St. Mark’s Basilica. The light reflects off the surface of the glass and depending on the time of the day, the light changes the effect and the appearance of the interior. So depending on when you visit you might get a different experience from someone else. So much gold was used in its construction of the church that the residents of Venice would call it the Chizea d’Oro or, the Gold Church.

Because the Basilica was built during the Byzantine age, and architectural methods weren’t as advanced as they are now, you’ll notice large thick walls, hundreds of columns and the heavy use of marble. They needed only the strongest of materials to help keep the multi-domed ceiling standing.

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Inside the church are the treasures of the fourth crusade on the holy land. During the 4th-century crusade, Venice deemed itself the holiest place on earth. And therefore all the treasures the crusading armies found were brought to Venice. One such treasure is the Pala d’Oro. The Pala d’Oro is decorated with 1,300 pearls, 300 emeralds, 300 sapphires, 400 garnets, 100 amethysts, plus rubies and topazes. A glittering masterpiece.

Porta Della Carta

Coming back out of the church, into St Mark’s square, be sure to take a moment to study the Porta della Carta on the side of the church. In 1442 this was the ceremonial entrance to the church was built to connect the church to the Doge’s Palace. The doorway is dripping in gothic ornamentation, with two tall, thin pinnacles flanking either side of the statue of the Doge Francesco Foscari. The Doge is seen kneeling before the Lion of Saint Mark. Below each pinnacle is are statues of cardinal virtues.  

Doge’s Palace

A Venetian Doge is something that many of you may not have heard of before. A Doge is pretty much like an English Duke, they served as the leader of the Republic of Venice from 726 to 1797. The Doge would rule over Venice from his seat of power inside the incredible Doge’s Palace. Today the building serves a public museum.

The building itself is a wonder to behold. Despite the enormity of the upper structure, it looks almost weightless as it is supported by the delicate pink Verona marble columns. The columns are decorated with a lacy pattern, making them look even more fragile. The top of the building is adorned with spiked merlons and looks like frosted meringue atop a cake.

Walk through the arcade and study the individual capitals of the columns on the right side.

Piazzetta 

Past the Basilica, walking south towards the water, you can find the Piazzetta. The Piazzetta is the smaller square to the south. In the middle of the square are two large two columns, made in red marble. Between these two columns is where death sentences were announced during the medieval ages.

At the top of the columns are two statues, each depicting one of the patron saints of Venice; St Mark and St Theodore, on the left and right respectively if you’re facing the water. St. Mark is depicted as the winged lion of Venice and St. Theodore can be seen standing atop, of all things, a crocodile. In his hand, he also holds a spear which we can assume he used to slay the giant crocodile. Saint Theodore is more commonly known for slaying a dragon, not a crocodile, but perhaps the Venetians artists of the time who made this carving had little knowledge of what a real dragon looked like, so instead, they simply carved the next best thing, a crocodile.

The Bridge of Sighs

Walk around the Doge’s Palace until you turn to face the Bridge of Sighs. The bridge of sighs created to join the interrogation rooms of the Doge’s Palace to the prison across the canal. If you were found guilty by the Serenissima you were set to the prison, but upon crossing the bridge, were allowed to look out at Venice one last time. Two small, square windows on the bridge allowed prisoners this one moment of reflection, before facing their possible lifetime of imprisonment. The bridge’s windows are covered in a tightly knit wrought iron bars, so no one could escape.

Day Two – Exploring the Hidden Canals

Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo

Continue heading north until you reach the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. This small palazzo has become an iconic viewpoint in Venice. The palazzo’s incredible, honeycomb-like spiral staircase, with a fantastic balcony at the top, provides one of the most amazing views across the city, and over St. Mark’s square. The staircase is called the “Scala Contarini del Bovolo” or “or the snail”.

Built in the 15th century for the wealthy Contarini family, the house became instantly notable for its unique outer staircase. In 1952 Orson Welles also fell in love with the house and even featured it in his film adaptation of Shakespeare’s Othello. The Palazzo was closed for many years but in 2016 it opened up its doors to the public. For three euros you can climb the stairs to the top and get a snap of the great landscape.

Explore the Side Canals

Make your way through this small island, heading north and slightly eastward. I don’t want to give you exact directions since exploring and getting lost in these small, neighbourhood streets is half the fun. You’ll discover amazing balconies pouring over with brightly coloured flowers. You might uncover a few secrets, etched into the walls of the alleyways. Or even discover your new favourite pastry shop. While there are some specific sights to see in Venice, exploring these side streets is a joy unto its own.

The Grand Canal

Continue walking north along the Corte Theatro, through one of the darkest brick tunnels, until you emerge out into the bright light of the Grand Canal. As this is the first time we are really faced with the view of the Grand Canal, I suppose we should talk a little bit about this ever so important waterway. The Grand Canal essentially splits the city of Venice into two. While the original waterway which ran through here was no doubt much narrower, the ancient river is thought to be a branch of the Brenta. Ancient Venetian fishermen were once the only ones who lived here, in simple stilt houses.

It wasn’t until the 9th century when the Doge moved his palace into the more protected area of what would become St Mark’s square, that the canal was widened. The canal needed to be larger in order to make room for the large ships needed for the construction of the palace. The canal became less of a fishing spot and more like a ritzy main street. Wealthy families began buying up property and building their huge manors along the Grand Canal.

History of the Grand Canal

The grand canal was the entryway into the city and the Venetian Republic wanted every building lining it to demonstrate the city’s power, wealth and artistic sensibilities. Like a parade of the best architecture Europe had to offer. This huge canal is now flanked by 170 illustrious buildings, which are from as early as the 13th century to the 18th century.

Rialto Bridge

Continue along with the Riva del Ferro, walking along the edge of the Grand Canal. Emerging from the last arcade you’ll be greeted almost immediately by the sight of the bright white stone of the Rialto bridge. The Rialto Bridge is the most famous of all of Venice’s canal bridges. It is also the oldest of the four major bridges which connect the various districts of Venice. The original wooden bridge installed here was built here in 1173. Back then it went by the name Ponte Della Moneta, which means “money bridge“. The reason for this was that on one side of the canal once stood the largest mint in Venice. People would flood into their area and across the bridge at all hours of the day to deposit and take out their cash!

The old wooden bridge was split down the center and could be raised on either side, to allow for tall ships to enter into these narrow canals. This was of the utmost importance especially when the Rialto Market opened, as boats would come in in mass to deliver fresh fruits, vegetables and fish. But as time past, the wooden bridge just wasn’t up to snuff though. After years and years of wear, riots, fires and crowds eventually it collapsed.

New Rialto Bridge

The new Rialto bridge design was completed in 1551. The architect who designed it did away with the raised wooden design and instead favoured stone as it was more durable and could last the test of time. Since the stone bridge couldn’t be raised, he needed to ensure that the two inclined ramps would be tall enough to accommodate the galley ships that needed to pass through. The result is this grand archway which looks like a gilded enclosure around a picturesque living portrait. The stone structure also featured a covered portico on top with rows of shops on either side. The addition of shops here meant that their rent could help pay for the maintenance of the bridge going forward. Between the inclined set of porticos is a large arch, like the crown atop this stunning structure.

While the bridge has become somewhat of a tourist trap, with stores selling souvenirs lining the entire walkway, early in the morning when they are all closed, this bridge still keeps its magic. There are these two little nooks on the bottom of the bridge, where you can sit right under it, besides the water. This is one of the most amazing places to watch boats and gondolas float by with stacks of fruits and vegetables coming into the market as dawn casts itself on the city. The top of the bridge is also one of the most iconic spots for pictures in Venice.

Mercado di Rialto

Now that you’ve been introduced to the look of the city, it’s time to meet the people of Venice. And there is no better place to get a peek into the real lives of the residence of Venice than to head to the Rialto Market! The Rialto Market is one of the last remaining fresh food markets in the city and as such, is a bustling place for locals to come and buy their food for the day. The outdoor portion of the market is where you’ll find seasonal fruits and vegetables. If you’re looking for a snack there is nothing more refreshing than a basket of freshly picked fruits!

But the Rialto Market is much more than just a place to get some of the best food in the city! It is also a place of great historical value. Of all the rich bankers and traders who lived in the region, the most famous were the Rivoalto family. The Rivoalto traders were one of the first families to come into the lagoon to set up a trading post. They picked this location because it was situated along the bend of the lagoon. This meant it was located on higher ground and therefore was spared from some of the floodings that other parts of the island experienced. The first known market took place here in 1097. Because the family didn’t have to constantly rebuild themselves, the Rivoaltos grew in prominence and wealth over time, eventually having the very spot named after them.

Pescheria

Opposite the green awning of the outdoor market is the neo-gothic fish hall, or Pescheria, built in the early 1900s. Outside the red brick building there is still to this day a marble plaque which you should study before heading inside. This plaque denotes the different types of fish which were allowed to be legally sold here when the marketplace was first built. Certain fishes were protected from overfishing and therefore there was a limit to the amount any one person could buy.

The fish hall is a soaring building with richly ornamented arches surrounding the exterior. Inside the columns continue throughout the interior, making a simple stone building feel rich and illustrious. Fresh fish has long been one of the most important resources in Venice. Right outside their door, this amazing product is caught daily. It can’t get much more local than that!

Buying food at the Market

The market place was facing the chance of being shut down a few years ago, due to a possible canal expansion for cruise ships. Thankfully the citizens were able to convince the city to stop this and the market was saved. But as more and more people choose to shop at larger grocery stores off the island markets like this always face the chance of being closed. So if you’re going to visit, be sure you buy at least a little something. We bought some fresh raspberries and cherries and they were absolutely delicious!

Basilica dei Frari

But probably what brings most people to San Polo is the Basilica dei Frari or Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. But most people just call it the “Frari” for short. The church is the beating heart of this neighbourhood. In 1231 the Doge Jacopo Tiepolo donated some land to the Franciscans. The original church he had built was small and as the Franscians rose to power, they demolished it in exchange for a larger, more impressive design. The current version was built in the 14th-century in high Venetian Gothic style.

At the back of the church is the great campanile, which is the second tallest tower in the city, after San Marco’s tower. The bell tower was built in 1396 and still stands today! The unassuming facade might fool you into thinking at first blush this church isn’t very important. But in actuality, it is perhaps one of the most significant churches in the city.

Titian Paintings in Venice

Many Doges were buried here under the watchful eye of masterful works of art by the painter Titian. Titian, who was a Venetian himself, painted the great altarpiece inside the church. The Assumption of the Virgin by Titian is one of the first things your eye is drawn towards as you enter the church. It sits behind the high altar, lit by the glow of the stained glass windows behind it. This piece is perhaps the best example of Titan’s masterful work. Setting the standard for Venetian art during the Renaissance.

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Entry into the Church

There is a small fee to enter the church (€ 3,00) but it is more than worth it to gaze upon the painting the Assumption of the Virgin in situ. When I first saw this painting in person, it was a moment of awe for me. Some paintings, like the Mona Lisa perhaps, don’t live up to the hype. But this one is even more grandiose and firey in person than it was on any page or screen.

Titian died of the plague at the age of 94 and a memorial to his life and death stands inside the great basilica. The monument is gigantic! A version of the Assumption painting is carved into the stone behind an image of the painter crowed with a laurel wreath. On either side of the artist are two figures which represent the universal nature and the genius of knowledge. The other four figures are Painting, Sculpture, Graphic Art and Architecture.

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Dorsoduro District

The Dorsoduro district is located on the bottom of the Venetian islands. This area borders the Grand Canal as well as the Venetian Lagoon, making it a prime spot for traders to live. While it’s not as flashy as the other districts, think of this as the blue-collar neighbourhood, I still find it to be one of the most charming areas in Venice. Dorsoduro lacks the pretensions of the other neighbourhood. Since it’s home to Venice’s Ca’ Foscari University you’ll also find the new blood of Venetian society, its students, who liven up the streets with modern music, food and entertainment.

Ponte dei Pugni

Continuing south, we’ll be going to pass over the Ponte dei Pugni. I love the view from this bridge. If you look towards the west you can see the bell tower from the church of Santa Maria del Carmelo. On either side of the bridge are a pair of footsteps marked on the corner. This marked the beginning of where the great fight between Venice’s two rival family factions took place in 1705. Thereafter, many more fights took place here. Opponents would stand on either side of the bridge, where the footsteps are now marked. Originally, there were no railings on this bridge, so when the two opponents would fight, the first one to fall off the bridge and into the water as the loser.

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Cantine del Vino già Schiavi

By this time, we are approaching the evening, but its not time for dinner just yet. Oh no, first we must have aperitif! And one of the best places to get it in Dorsoduro is Cantine del Vino già Schiavi. This bar sells Cicchetti (small snacks) which include Venetian classics like crostini topped with salt cod and wild garlic, pistachio cream or alioli with flower petals. Grab an Aperol spritz to drink while standing at the bar to feel very much like a local.

Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese

Head northeast until you reach the Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese. This narrow street is filled with shops. Being so far away from the touristy areas, these stores are known to seel authentic Venetian goods but at reasonable prices. In addition to the tourist shops, you’ll also find unique boutiques which are a great way to support local businesses.

Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute

If you’re still feeling up for it, continue walking through Dorsoduro, eastwards, until you reach the Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute. This stunning white marble church is not only a sight to see, but where you can get a great view of Saint Mark’s square, where we first started the tour.

In 1630 Venice was being ravaged by the plague and there was no signs of it stopping. At the time, one of the ways people thought you could stop the plague was by making an offering to god and pray he would send deliverance to the city. So, the Republic of Venice built the church to Our Lady of Health as a last resort. Eventually, the plague period past and the city was able to start rebuilding itself. Nearly a third of the population of Venice died during the plague. Those that survived would remember that harrowing experience forever. Since the church was made in honour of stopping the plague, most of the art and symbolism you’ll find throughout the church in some way refers to death or the plague, making it a very uniquely themed church. 

The Dome of Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute

The church is most notable for its humongous white dome which dominates the sky. The dome, which almost seems to defy gravity, became a symbol of inspiration for artists in the city. To support the huge dome and enormous marble church, 1,000,000 wooden piles were used to hold up the floating building. At the apex of the central pediment stands a statue of the Virgin Mary, looking out of the city. The group of figures in the scene is stunningly theatrical and it really looks like a moment frozen in time.

If you choose to come inside be sure to check out the statuary group at the high altar. This stone scene depicts depicting The Queen of Heaven expelling the Plague and was crafted in 1670. 

Zattere

To finish the evening, walk down south towards the far end of the island. The stone promenade which flanks the water’s edge is called the Zattere. Zattere in Italian means rafts. In the 16th century timber would arrive in the city on large rafts. Timber was not only used to constructed the walls of grand palazzos and houses in Venice, it was literally the ground on which the houses were built on. So timber was one of the most important imports in the city. Timber was also used to make gondolas up until the 18th century. Suffice to say, the city was literally built around the timber industry and therefore its importance is not to be ignored. The earliest parts of the Zattere date as far back as 1520! Today the wide promenade is a great place to watch the sunset against the waters of the canals.

Trattoria San Basilio

If you’re feeling like you would like to dine somewhere close to your accommodation there are Vaporetto stops all along the Fondamenta Zattere. But if you’re looking for something special along the water’s edge, but away from the touristy hub, you should check out Trattoria San Basilio.

This down to earth restaurant is located inside the corner of one of the older buildings in the Zattere. It barely looks like a restaurant at all except for the awning and few tables and chairs out front. But don’t let its modesty fool you, here you’ll find a relaxing atmosphere, friendly staff, and best of all, traditional Venetian cuisine. Their seafood spaghetti with mussels, clams and squids, tastes so fresh you’d swear the food jumped right onto your plate straight from the water. Try to get a spot outside to enjoy the sunset or the boats as they drive past into the moonlight.

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Phew, well that brings us to the end of this tour! Hopefully, if you packed this all into one day you found things along the way to return to tomorrow to investigate further! Let me know which neighbourhood was your favourite or what you’re most looking forward to visiting!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Escape to Venice: Your Ultimate Guide to the Perfect 48 Hours in the Floating City – Steal This Itinerary Today! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Most people opt to go on a boat tour, and rightly so, as it is one of the most authentic ways to explore Amsterdam. But a tour on foot allows you to spend more time studying the buildings up close. This way you can get a real sense of the atmosphere and environment of different neighbourhoods spread across the city. A walking tour is a great idea as an intro to the city. You’ll get a taste and decide for yourself where you might want to return to study in greater detail. Don’t worry too much about being on the right side of the canal as we go. You can easily see these buildings from across the canal. But you can always cross over one of the many bridges in the city should you want to get a closer look.

Table Of Contents

1. How Long is the Tour?
2. Amsterdam History
3. Types of Gables
4. Walking Tour Starting Point: Brouwersgracht
5. Eenhoornsluis
6. Prinsengracht
7. Jordaan Neighbourhood
8. Keizersgracht
9. Lauriergracht
10. Beudekerbrug
11. Reguliersgracht 92
12. Magere Brug, the Skinny Bridge
13. Amstel
14. Herengracht
15. Koningssluis
16. Melkmeisjesbrug
17. Singel Canal
18. Blauwburgwal
19. The Torensluis
20. Bloemenmarkt
21. The Dancing Houses
22. Grimburgwal
23. Kloveniersburgwal
24. Oudezijds Voorburgwal
25. House at the Three Canals
26. Agnietenkapel

How Long is the Tour?

This is a full-day walking tour that takes you across the entire city! If you feel like splitting it up, feel free to customize the tour yourself! This way, you can spend some extra time in any of the museums listed. That is the joy of self-guided tours, after all. We will start our tour in the quiet northwest corner of the city in the Jordaan neighbourhood. Then we slowly make our way over to the southeast end.

Amsterdam History

Amsterdam began as a small fishing village. The village was located behind the large dam which protected the city from the overbearing Amstel River. The name “Amsterdam” comes from the location along the “Amstel” river and the “dam” which protected it. In less than 200 years, from the 16th to 18th century, the city of Amsterdam’s population exploded! It multiplied from 30,000 residence to 160,000 residents almost overnight. The city was a melting pot for immigrants from all over Europe. At the time, the Netherlands had a very tolerant climate towards refugees. With this came a massive influx of people from France, Portugal, Spain, and much of the Jewish population from Antwerp.

The Canal Expansion

Back then, Amsterdam was just this tiny island overflowing with people. The city needed to find a way to expand the city and cope with the growing population. So, the city council decided they would follow what the Italians did in Venice. They created a series of canals that spread out around the city. But unlike the winding, a spider web of canals in Venice, the design of the Amsterdam canals was very structured. They run in a half-moon shape around the bay encircling the historic medieval centre. Historians also call this the windshield wiper design.

Grachtengordel

The newly formed canal belt neighbourhood was called the Grachtengordel. “Gracht” translates to the word “canal” so literally, this was called the canal district. This new area would be designated for inhabitants. A fourth canal was added, the Singel Canal, which would be used for defence.

Building the canals was a pricey business. So the city offered wealthy merchants and bankers the opportunity to buy plots of land in these prestigious areas. This helped them secure the funds they needed to build the waterways. A portion of the outer canals was reserved for industrial use. As these factories were known for being loud and smelly the city wanted to keep them as far away from the aristocrats as possible.

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Creation of Canal House

Many of the houses you see in Amsterdam are built atop a series of wooden poles. If you were to scan a cross-section of the city, you’d see it look like a giant pin cushion. How many poles are there? Some say it’s as much as eleven million! The Amsterdam Centraal train station alone stands atop 9,000 poles. Each pole needs to be around 15-20 meters tall to be struck down deep enough to support the houses built atop it.

Amsterdam Roof Gables

During the 17th century, it was considered gauche to see the roof of a house from the street or canal. This is why you see so many of Amsterdam’s houses featuring ornate and prominent gables. A roof gable is a section of wall between the edges of a dual-pitched roof. It provides both an aesthetic and functional purpose. Many of the gables in Amsterdam also feature sturdy winches in the center. These were installed to help lift heavy items up to the upper floors of the home or warehouse.

Types of Gables

The uniquely shaped gables are one of the most notable features of Amsterdam’s architecture. There are four primary designs you can see across the city. These include; the stepped gable, the bell gable, the neck gable and the spout gable. Each type of gable corresponding to a different period of time, like spotting fashion trends through the ages.

Why are the Houses so Thin?

Another unique aspect of houses in Amsterdam are their width. The houses are designed to be tall and narrow. But this was originally not originally an aesthetic choice. Back then, taxes were calculated based on the width of the house, not the height. So the answer to building a large home without high taxes was to build upward.

Types of Hosues

There are two main types of houses you see along the canals. They are easily identifiable if you know what you’re looking for. There is the koopmanshuizen (merchant warehouse) and then the herenhuis (residential mansions and townhouses). Merchant houses were designed to work on a split-level design. The lower levels near the water could operate as warehouses and the upper levels were used as the living quarters. Everything from spices, tulips, coffee and more were stored here. To identify the warehouses you need only spot the large wooden shutters. These were only added to merchant’s houses. The shutters when opened allowed goods to be hoisted in up to the upper levels which allowed for more storage space. When closed, the large wooden shutters helped keep out the heat and sunlight to preserve the goods inside.

Walking Tour Starting Point: Brouwersgracht

Our tour starts on the Brouwersgracht. This canal was developed in the 17th century just north of the residential canal belt. It was a canal built for large warehouses. The location near the mouth of the river allowed quick access for ships returning piled with goods. The Brouwersgracht, or the Brewers’ Canal, was named as such due to the number of breweries in the area. The location not only made the delivery of goods simple, but it also meant these warehouses had the best access to fresh water. Essentially for breweries and distilleries.

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Brouwersgracht 218

On Brouwersgracht 224-218, we can see examples of neck gables. The house at #218 features a neck gable decorated with Doric pilasters that extend up in the style of Dutch Baroque architecture. The facade features three “oeil-de-boeuf” or “ox eyes”. These are small rounded windows (although these windows have since been bricked up.) Oeil-de-boeuf windows were popular design trends in Amsterdam and they pop up all over the city.

Hanging from the centre of these gables is a sizeable protruding hook. These hooks were used alongside a pulley system to move heavy items into the home. Although they were originally designed for the warehouses, to bring in spices, cotton or cocoa, in the residential homes they were used to move heavy furniture in and out.

Brouwersgracht 204-212

A group of 17th-century warehouses sit at Brouwersgracht 204-212. Standing on the top of the gables along this series of warehouses are a variety of Green Deer sculptures. The one in the center looks straight out over the canals, seemingly on guard. Whereas the two on either side lie in repose, looking in towards the centre deer. When the family built the warehouses in 1640, the deer were always the crowning glory of the gables. But they disappeared hundreds of years later. When the area residents discovered some old drawings of the warehouses that featured the lost deer, they collaborated to have them reconstructed. Although they are now made of plastic (as to not disturb the structural integrity of the gable), it’s nice to see the love that the neighbours have for their neighbourhood history.

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Brouwersgracht 196-188

Many of the houses along Brouwersgracht contain those iconic brightly coloured window shutters. Used to identify them as warehouses. You can see more examples of these along Brouwersgracht 196-188. All of these warehouses were built around 1636. In 2007 Brouwersgracht was voted the most beautiful street in Amsterdam by readers of Het Parool out of 150 nominations. And one can really see why. The canal is a lovely blend of all the most famous Dutch architecture. It is also home to a series of scenic houseboats that float along the canal. But since the canal is located far enough from the busy tourist centre, the area still feels peaceful and quaint.

Brouwersgracht 174

At #174 Brouwersgracht, you’ll find a vast building with the widest roof gable found anywhere in the city. Topping the centre of the gable is Amsterdam’s famous coat of arms. The coat of arms of Amsterdam consists of a large red shield with a black strip down the center. Punched along the vertical black stripe are three silver Saint Andrew’s Crosses. These three crosses are seen all over Amsterdam, either accompanied by the shield or sometimes just on their own. Unlike what you might think, “XXX” doesn’t stand for anything untoward or x-rated. St. Andrew is the patron saint of Amsterdam as he was a fisherman just like the earliest residents of the city. When St. Andrew was martyred, he was placed on an X-shaped cross, and the X became a symbol for the saint.

But why are there three Xs? Well, there are a few theories. One theory states that they represent the three formidable rivers Amsterdam controlled. Another is that it stands for the holy trinity. But my favourite theory is that they represent the three threats Amsterdam needed to protect itself against. These were fire, flood and plague.

Eenhoornsluis

Just a few steps from the Brouwersgracht is the great Eenhoornsluis or Unicorn Lock. This is one of the 16 “water locks” found around the city. These water locks were built in the 17th century to control the water levels inside the canals. They were meant to protect the town from flooding in from the swelling seas. Previous to 1916, these water locks actually allowed fresh ocean water into the city. But in 1916, a great flood caused much damage to the city. After this, the Southern Sea dike was built to prevent such a flood from ever happening again. This resulted in the transformation of the city’s water to be freshwater only, but the payoff was worth it in the long run.

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Prinsengracht

From the bridge, turn down onto the Prinsengracht. Prinsengracht, or the Prince’s Canal, was named after the Prince of Orange. This is the fourth of the four main canals belonging to the canal belt. The Canal Belt, and rings it formed around the city, would go onto give Amsterdam its distinctive crescent shape. The four canals which make up the Canal Belt are the Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and the Prinsengracht. The Prinsengracht is the longest of all the canals, stretching out over 3 km, on the outer edge of the city. The epic construction of the canal began in 1612 and took over 50 years to be completed.

Café Papeneiland

As we turn on Prinsengracht, we first stop off at the Café Papeneiland. This is the oldest cafe in Amsterdam, established in 1641! In the 16th century, during the Dutch Protestant Reformation, the government outlawed Catholicism. This meant all Catholics had to practice in secret or abandon their religion altogether. Many underground Catholic churches were built in response. Tunnels ran throughout the city to connect secret entrances to these churches. And this cafe was once one such location. The cafe’s name translates to “papists’ island,” as this part of town was known as a sanctuary for Catholics. The tunnel entrance is still located in the basement. If you order something from the bar (preferably their amazing dutch apple pie), ask the bartender nicely to show you the old entrance.

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Jordaan Neighbourhood

The area along the western side of Prinsengracht is better known as the Jordaan Neighbourhood. The canals closer to the historic center were generally reserved for the wealthy residents of Amsterdam. So the Jordaan Neighbourhood, away from the city centre, was a low-income area and somewhat of a slum. The roads and canals here are more slender than the rest of the city. This was done to save money on construction but resulted in what was seen as a more crowded district. It wouldn’t be until much, much later in Amsterdam’s history, that the area was gentrified into what we see today. Now, the Jordaan is one of the hipper parts of town.

But back in the 17th century, the area was densely populated by immigrants and refugees. Many of these refugees were from France. The name of the area, “Jordaan,” is derived from the french word “Jardin,” meaning garden. Many of the streets off of Prinsengracht are named after flowers.

Noorderkerk

Continuing along, you’ll come to the large Noordermarkt square. The square is dominated by the imposing Noorderkerk or North Church. The North and West Church (which we will see later) were financed by the same merchant guild who hired the same architect, De Keyser, to design them both. The North Church, built in 1620, was meant to be the “people’s church.” It was intended as a simpler version of the more ornate West Church. The Noorderkerk has a symmetrical, cross-shaped layout, reflecting the ideals of the Renaissance and Protestantism. De Keyser’s unique design combines an octagonal floor plan with a structure shaped like Saint Andrew’s cross. Four arms of equal length spread out around the building giving it almost a circular appearance.

The “people’s church” was a polite way to distinguish the population that attended. This town area was home to Amsterdam’s more impoverished population. The wealthy merchant didn’t want to associate with them. They were mainly fishermen, and apparently, the smell of fish was something the wealthy merchant didn’t have the stomach for.

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Van Brienenhofje

Located along Prinsengracht from #85 to 133 is the old Van Brienenhofje. This was one of 13 different breweries which were situated along Prinsengracht. When the brewery closed, it was transformed into an almshouse for the elderly. Today it is still used as a housing association for the poor.

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Prinsengracht 175

At Prinsengracht 175, you can see an old house that dates back to 1661. On the front of the house, are a series of gable stones. They are carved into the shape of a sheep, an ox and a lamb. These gable stones can be found on many of the older buildings around Amsterdam. They were called gevelstenen and used before there was an established numbering system along the canal. These symbols also were used to identify the occupation of the owner inside. This also helped the illiterate population of the city during the middle ages find different shops and businesses they required. Spotting these stone tablets makes for a fun eye-spy game as you explore the city!

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Keizersgracht

We’re going to take a quick detour over to the Keizersgracht by turning left along Prinsenstraat. The Keizersgracht (also called the Emperor’s canal) is the third canal in the canal belt. It was named after Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor. During the wintertime, if the weather is cold enough, the water freezes over thanks to the water locks which stop freshwater from entering. This allows residents to skate up and down the canal, a great way to get around during the winter. The canal is 31 meters wide, making it the widest of the waterways in the canal belt.

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Keizersgracht 44

The red shutters of #44 Keizersgracht mark it as a traditional merchant warehouse. But what makes this house different are the stepped gables. Most merchant houses didn’t feature these ornate gables as they were primarily used on residences. This house is also unique as the contents of the warehouse were whale blubber. Large cement pits were dug out in the basement where the whalers could store up to 50,000 litres of whale blubber.

Rode Hoed

The Rode Hoed (Red Hat) announces itself to the public in large red letters as you pass by. While the house looks almost like a church, it was initially a hat makers shop until 1629. After that, the building was purchased by the Remonstrants Brotherhood (a sect of Protestants). Like the Catholics, they needed to practice in secret. They built their underground church here, where they practiced until 1957. After that it was sold to a TV station. Thankfully, the station protected the appearance of the exterior for future generations to appreciate.

Keizersgracht 123

The house at Keizersgracht 123 is better known as the “House with the Heads.” The house was built in 1622 for merchant and art lover Nicolaas Sohier. It was built by city architect Hendrick de Keyser in high Dutch Renaissance style. The roof has been given that illustrious stepped gable design with decorative obelisks, pilasters, claw pieces and swathes of flowers blooming between the windows. Located above the pediments are these wonderful lion masks with their mouths wide open as if in a mid growl.

The house’s name comes from the six sculptural heads on the facade, located just above the first floor. These six heads were initially rumoured to represent six robbers who had once attempted to break into the house. They were caught in the act by the kitchenmaid and were beheaded with her own meat cleaver! Sadly, the story is nothing more than gossip but it makes for a great rumour. The heads acutally represent the six gods; Apollo, Ceres, Mercury, Minerva and Diana.

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Keizersgracht 177

The large brick mansion at #177 Keizersgracht is called the Coymanshuis. It was designed in 1625 by Jacob van Campen for two wealthy brother who were both bankers. The brothers made their fortune in silver and iron. They had huge families, one brother having six children and the other having ten! So, in turnn, they require a very large manor to house all those kids! Architect Jacob van Campen would go on to design the Amsterdam City Hall. He used this house as his winning portfolio piece to get the opportunity to work on the great city hall.

Homomonument

On the other side of the canal, opposite the large and imposing Westerkerk, is a series of steps leading down to a triangular platform. This is the Homomonument, a memorial to commemorate gays and lesbians citizens who were killed by the Nazisduring WWII. Pink triangle badges were used in concentration camps to identify gays and lesbians and the triangular design is used repetedly here to memorialize those actions. The Homomonument was designed to “inspire and support lesbians and gays in their struggle against denial, oppression and discrimination.”  An estimated 15,000 people were sentenced to concentration camps during WWII, many of whom, never returned.

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Astoria Building

Although there aren’t many art nouveau-styled buildings in Amsterdam, you can find one of the greatest here at Keizersgracht #174. This is the Astoria building, built in 1904 to serve as the head office for the Eerste Hollandsche Levensverzekerings Bank. Towering over the rest of the city, the Astoria was the first office tower ever built in the Netherlands. The Dutch style of art nouveau, also called the Nieuwe Kunst, is a much more restrained version of the art style found elsewhere in the world. The most impressive part of the building is the giant mosaic located on the facade depicting an angel protecting a young woman beside a small child.

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Anne Frank House

Turn back onto the Prinsengracht canal and make your way to Prinsengracht #263. The house is easily spotted by the long line of people outside. They are all waiting to see the famed Anne Frank House. It was here that little Anne Frank wrote her seminal diary. This book went on to ignite, inspire and inform young people the whole world about life during WWII.

The Secrets of the House

It was in this house that Anne and her family hid from the Nazis. The house was initially built in 1635 by Dirk van Delft, but the canal facade was renovated in 1740. The lower levels with their wide stable-like doors were initially used to house horses. Later, when Otto Frank bought the house, the space was used as a warehouse for household appliances, piano rolls, and spices. In the back part of the house, was concealed from the street. From the outside, you couldn’t make out the back extension that allowed Anne and her family to hid. A trick bookshelf was installed to give access to these large secret apartments.

Sadly, after hiding for two years, they were discovered by the Nazis during a raid and were sent to the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp. Anne’s father Otto was the only family member to survive. The employees who worked in Otto’s factory came back to retrieve anything left behind by the Nazis. Luckily, one of these items was Anne’s diary. When Otto returned to Amsterdam it was his life’s mission to publish the book. Not knowing how widespread her musings would become. If you are interested in visiting the museum, be sure to book tickets WELL ahead of time. I’m talking like two months early in some cases! You can also line up in the afternoon for day-of tickets but there is no guarantee you’ll get in and the line tends to be hours long.

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Westerkerk

Opposite the Anne Frank House is the 17th-century protestant Westerkerk. This church is most notable for its 87-meter tower, which can be seen all across Amsterdam. The top of the building is capped with the brightly coloured gilded Imperial Crown. The symbol of the imperial crown belonged to the Holy Roman Emperor, in honour of Maximilian I, archduke of Austria and ruler of the Low Countries. When Maximilian travelled to the Hague in 1484 he fell ill. He prayed that if he recovered he would make a pilgrimage to Amsterdam, where the miracle had been performed. When he was indeed healed, he granted the use of his coat of arms to the city of Amsterdam. The crown is covered in bright blue enamel and even decorated in shining jewels to look as realistic as possible.

The interior of the church is rather plain, painted in white with natural stones. The main feature of the interior is the 36 large windows which allow sunlight to pour in from any angle. There isn’t a single building surrounding the church that obstructs the light flowing in. The white painted interior highlights the glowing luminescence produced by these great windows.

Nieuwe-Wercksbrug

Walk up along the Nieuwe-Wercksbrug bridge to get a beautiful view down the canals. Standing on the bridge, you are walking along Rozengracht street. Rozengracht street translates to “rose street,” but back in the 17th-century, the area was nothing of the sort. The Rozengracht is one of the six filled-in canals located in the Jordaan neighbourhood. The canals had to be filled in because of the poor hygienic condition in the water due to the pollution. People threw everything from garbage, dead animals and human waste into the canal. The street literally smelled so bad they had to fill it in. Now you might understand the irony of giving it such a flowery name.

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Reesluis

Reesluis is the name of the bridge which crosses over this part of the Prinsengracht. From here, you have a fantastic view of Westerkerk’s giant clock tower that looms over the canal. The bridge is named after the Reestraat, which continues out to the east. The street’s name translates to “Deer Street.” This area of town was popular with animal skin traders and craftsmen who worked in the leather industry. The bridge is one of the older bridges in the area, built before 1625.

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Lauriergracht

From here, we are taking a short detour to the east along the Lauriergracht. The Lauriergracht, or the “Laurel Canal,” was a popular place for artists to live in the 17th century. I definitely find this canal contains many hidden artistic flourishes from bright stained glass windows, colourful exteriors and even just little ornate stonework hidden here and there. They are small flourishes but definitely a unique characteristic of the area.

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Lauriergracht 23

Built in 1658, this home was a typical 17th-century example of the fanciful neck gables of the time. This one features two huge lions set into claw pieces. The lions look like they are on the prowl, protecting the home from intruders.

The Houseboat Museum

Turn back to Prinsengracht until you reach the corner of Elandsgracht and Prinsengracht where you’ll find the Houseboat Museum. Since there are over 800 houseboats in Amsterdam, you’d be remiss in visiting the city without going inside of one. And unless you’ve booked one for your hotel stay (a great idea, by the way) or you know someone with a houseboat, this might be your only chance to see the interior of one in person. This houseboat dates back to the 1960s. It has such a retro vibe and still displaying all the ingenious ways people make the small spaces work for them as living quarters. There isn’t a drawer or cabinet not squeezed into place to make these floating homes just like the real thing.

Prinsengracht 300

At #300 Prinsengracht we’ll find another beautiful example of the stone house symbols. This one features a red fox with a blue sparrow in its mouth. The house was built for furrier Dirck Hendricksz Hooghvelt who made his living selling fox fur clothing. The house was originally called ‘De Witte Vos’ (meaning the white fox) until 1767 when the stone tablet was repainted white and the house went by the name ‘De Roode Vos’ (the red fox.)

Beudekerbrug

In 1949, while walking across the Beudekerbrug, singer-songwriter Pieter Goemans was inspired to write the famous song ‘Aan de Amsterdamse Grachten‘ (‘On Amsterdam’s Canals’). It is one of the most popular songs celebrating the city. You’ll often hear it played on street organs across the Netherlands. When the author died in 2000, his ashes were scattered here in the canal. The plaque on the bridge commemorates his contribution to the history of Dutch music.

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Palace of Justice – Prinsengracht 443- 436

From the corner of Prinsengracht and Leidsegracht, we can see the great former Palace of Justice. At the corner, the building has a much different style than the neo-classical facade further along. The entire structure was once the old ‘Weeshuis‘ or orphanage. This Weeshuis was designed to serve the poorest of Amsterdam’s children. Two small stone carvings on either side of the doors on the old brick building show the images of the nuns. The nun who worked in the orphanage are seen holding hands with the small children in the frame. Despite the updating of the rest of the building this small memento from history remains.

The orphanage was renovated into the Palace of Justice in 1825 by architect Jan de Greef. Greef was working under the stylist trends of the period. These were heavily inspired by ancient Greek architecture. The building features large stone columns, Corinthian capitals and heavy stone balustrades. On the second-floor facade, you can see a stone carving with a poem attributed to Jacob van Lennep. It reads, “Under your rule, Serene Willem! Is this Asylum rebuilt, and consecrated to Law and Justice.”

Prinsengracht 769

At Prinsengracht 769, you’ll find the old Prinsengracht Hospital. The original hospital was built in 1857 after the cholera epidemic in the 1850s. The hospital remained open for over 150 years, eventually closing in 2015. A modern co-working space company bought the property. They wanted to transform the individual hospital rooms into rentable desks spaces and meeting rooms for digital nomads and start-up companies. While the interior has been modernized, the facade remains much unchanged from the days when it served as a hospital.

The Deutzen Hofje

Facing out along the canal’s bend is the Deutzen Hofje at Prinsengracht 857. Hofje is the Dutch word for a courtyard with almshouses around it. Hofjes have existed since the Middle Ages providing housing mainly for the elderly. The house was built in 1695 with funds from a wealthy Amsterdam resident. She bequeathed the house over to the city to become free housing for older servants who couldn’t work anymore. On the front of the house are the words, “A comfort to the poor, an example to the rich.”

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Reguliersgracht 92

At the corner of Prinsengracht and Reguliersgracht is an old red-painted building. Take note of the interesting sculpture of a stork peeking out over the niche above the doorway. The building was first built in the 17th century for a popular midwife. She used the stork as a symbol and de-facto advertisement for her business.

De Duifbrug

De Duifbrug or the Dove Bridge has also been called the “tunnel of love.” The original name came from the fact the bridge was located next to the old De Duif church. But the nickname was given as it is thought to be one of the most romantic spots in the city. Standing on the bridge your vantage point looks out over at the seven different famous bridges that surround the area. When illuminated at night, it is one of the most magical places in the city!

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Brasserie Nel

Set back on the Amstelveld, is a charming tree-lined square. Located right inside is the old Brasserie Nel. The building, which houses the trendy restaurant with a picture-perfect patio, was built in 1668. It originally served as a temporary church before the De Duif was constructed. The restaurant is a great place to stop if you’re looking for somewhere to grab a bite to eat or just have a refreshing glass of beer!

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Magere Brug, the Skinny Bridge

Make your way down to the Amstel River to see the Magere Brug or “Skinny Bridge.” Considered by most to be the most beautiful bridge in the city. The Magere Brug is a bascule bridge or draw bridge. These bridges can be raised to provide clearance for large boat traffic to pass through. The present bridge was built in 1934 to accommodate these large boats which couldn’t pass under the original stone bridge.

The first incarnation of this passage across the river was installed in 1691. Back then, it is said that the bridge was created by two sisters who lived on opposite sides of the Amstel river. Each one wanted to be able to visit one another every day without having to jump into a boat. But the women weren’t super-wealthy and could only afford to build a very narrow bridge. Hence the original name “skinny” bridge. Walk out onto the bridge for some of the best photo opportunities in the city. The view looking out at the Amstel River as well as the view of the bridge and houses behind it are both stunning photo spots.

Amstel

The name Amstel is derived from the Dutch word Amestelle. “Ame” meaning water, and “stelle” meaning solid, high dry ground. In the 12th century, the Amstel river was developed to serve as a commercial waterway by the very wealthy Van Amstel family. The family had been an influential dynasty in the medieval Netherlands named after the river from which they drew their wealth. The river is truly the lifeblood of the town and is one of the most important transit routes in Amsterdam.

Herengracht

Walk back to Amstel street until you reach the Herengracht. The Herengracht is the second of four Amsterdam canals belonging to the canal belt, located right behind the Singel Canal. The portion of the canal was built in 1612. Previously the area was a simple moat dug for the companies on the Singel canal to use. The name of the canal was given in honour of Heren Regeerders van de stad, the Gentlemen Governor of Amsterdam. Today it goes by the nickname the Gentlemen’s Canal.

Willet-Holthuysen Museum

After walking past so many of these canal houses, take this opportunity to step inside one for yourself! The house at Herengracht 605 was built for the mayor of Amsterdam Jacob Hop in 1685. It was passed down to each subsequent mayor until 1895, when it passed hands to Abraham Willet and Louisa Holthuysen. When Willet died, Louisa bequeathed the house to the city of Amsterdam. She gave it along with their collection of art, furniture and another interior decor to serve as the Willet-Holthuysen Museum.

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The facade was renovated in 1739 to suit the new Louis XIV style. I adore the floral stone carvings, which look like they are real flowers growing out of the stone. Above the doorway is a large stone sculpture of St. George standing atop a slain dragon. Holding up the plinth is the head of an elephant whose trunk acts as a column holding up the entire stone tablet. The interiors all date back to 1895 and are a wonderful slice of that period of architecture, design and art in Amsterdam. Ticket prices for Adults are €12.50.

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Gouden Bocht

The Gouden Bocht or Golden Bend was built as the most prestigious part of the Herengracht. Many people who originally purchased the land here were regents, mayors and traders. They were encouraged to buy a double lot to ensure their mansion felt grand and imposing. Most of the residents made their living importing and exporting goods from South America or the Dutch East Indies. The name “golden bend” came from the fact that the city’s wealthiest families seemed to be amassed right here along the bend.

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Philips Vingboons and Adriaan Dortsman

Two architects were responsible for most of the structures along the Golden Bend. They were Philips Vingboons and Adriaan Dortsman. Philips Vingboons is known to be the originator of the famous neck gable design. Since Vingboons was a Catholic and the city was controlled by the protestant elite, he never had the opportunity to design any governmental or religious buildings in the town. These kinds of commissions would have brought in a substantial amount of money and fame for the artisan which he, therefore, missed out on.

Having two principal designers for one area meant the strip has a more uniform appearance. The styles they preferred featured very classical facades. Today, the Golden Bend keeps its name and is home to some of the largest banks and financial institutions in Amsterdam. Very appropriate.

De Bazel

Almost unmissable is the domanieering De Bazel building on the corner of Herengracht and Vijzelstraat. The building is the former headquarters of the Nederlandsche Handel-Maatschappij. The NHM was founded in 1824 by King William I to promote trade, shipping, shipbuilding, fishing, agriculture and manufacturing. One of their most important functions was supporting trade between the Netherlands and the Dutch East Indies. The building was designed by the architect Karel de Bazel in 1919. It is nicknamed De Spekkoek, which translates to pork belly. It is named as such because of the alternating light and dark colours of stone that look like layers of fat in bacon. Spekkoek is also the name of a popular dessert with the same light and dark layers but made with cake.

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Herengracht 446

The beautiful black brick facade at #446 was home to the Amsterdam regent family De Graeff. Andries de Graeff became the reigning mayor of Amsterdam in 1671. De Graeff was a Free Imperial Knight of the Holy Roman Empire. The Free Imperial knights were free nobles of the Holy Roman Empire, whose direct overlord was the Emperor. The upper gable is a stone shield with the De Graeff family coat of arms emblazoned on it. The coat of arms comprises two white swans and two shovels in either corner of the shield. The shovel represents the Herren von Graben family and the swans from the De Grebber family who joined together to form this new noble house.

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Koningssluis

The Koningssluis bridge is one of the more uniquely designed bridges in Amsterdam. The original bridge was from 1662, but the current incarnation was made in 1921 by architect Piet Kramer. Instead of removing the entire old stone bridge, Kramer worked to integrate the ancient stones with new decorative wrought iron railings. He was inspired by the art deco fashion of the time. Don’t miss checking out the stone and brick corner of the bridge. These feature stone sculptures in the shape of mythical animals which are little hidden gems to discover.

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Herengracht 394

The house on the corner of Herengracht and Leidsegracht is home to the ‘De Vier Heemskinderen‘ house. Notice the iconic house symbol above the doorway featuring a horse with four riders. This depicts the medieval story of the Four Sons of Aymon or the Heemskinderen. The house was built during the canal expansion in 1671. The high neck gable is decorated with carved floral garlands, which also embellish brick around the windows.

Herengracht 390-392

The houses along Herengracht 390-392 both feature incredible Dutch Baroque claw pieces adding a bit of interest to their neck gables. The houses were commissioned as a duo by the wood merchant Jan Teeringh and designed by Justus Vingboons. The ornately carved claw piece consists of a male and female figure leaning on the gable. A large cartouche was carved below them. On either side of the window are two large floral festoons, made to look like the stone facade has begun to bloom.

Museum of the Canals

If you are interested in learning more about the history of the canals in Amsterdam, make a stop inside the Museum of the Canals. Inside this historic grand mansion, you will travel back in time through over 400 years of history. You’ll be able to learn more about the history of Amsterdam and how the canals and the canal houses were built atop the water. Through minature scale models, 3D animations and interactive multimedia experience, you are really immersed into the world of Amsterdam’s history.

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Herengracht 380

Herengracht 380 is probably my favourite house along the Herengracht. It looks so much different than the rest of the buildings along the canal, in a very distinctive style. It was built in 1775 adjoining three other buildings which once stood here. Sadly, in the 19th century, a great fire burned down the old buildings, and they all had to be demolished. But this new treasure rose from their ashes. The architect Abraham Salm was inspired by his time in Paris and the castles he saw in the Loire valley. The french style of architecture is a rarity to find in Amsterdam. The facade is covered in exuberant decorations, carved medallions, large sculptures, ornate balustrades and sandstone lilies (an iconic symbol of France). Although it was initially designed as a residence, it has since passed hands and is a government office building today.

Cromhout House

The houses along 370-364 are lovely examples of the lavish designs of the 17th century. Initially built for wealthy merchant Jacob Cromhout, the house was designed in 1660 in Dutch classicist style by architect Philips Vingboons. The lower facade is mainly classical but the gables are covered in a stunning array of intricate stucco decorations, which are emblematic of the Dutch baroque area. Pay close attention to the oval oeil-de-boeuf windows surrounding gorgeous floral motifs. Besides the neck, gables are claw pieces in the shape of swirling shells, another element of baroque iconography. The building was previously home to the beautiful Bible Museum, but it closed permanently in 2020. The home is now used for travelling exhibitions.

Bartolotti House

The Bartolotti House at Herengracht 170 was built in 1617 for Willem Bartolotti van den Heuvel tot Beichlingen. Willem had married Giovanni Battista Bartolotti, who came from a wealthy family of merchants from Bologna. Hendrick de Keyser was the architect and one of the most influential Baroque Renaissance architects. And this house is perhaps the best example of his work. The richly decorated facade has pilasters, masks, vases, claw pieces, extensive balustrades, and one of the most elaborate stepped gables in the city. The actual facade of the house seems to be bent at a slight angle, as the home is located in what was called the “small bend” of the Herengracht. On the facade are two large cartouches with the inscription, “Ingenio et Assiduo Labore” (by ingenuity and diligence) on the left and “Religione et Probate” (by religion and righteousness) on the right.

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Herengracht 120

The charming black brick house with white accents at #120 was built in 1615 for cloth merchants Michiel Jansz de Lange and Adriaen Jacobsz van Noort. These merchants traded mainly with Norway, and they wanted to name their home after the King which they served. The style of the house with its large expansive windows is known as Amsterdam’s Urban Renaissance architecture.

Herengracht 81

One of the most spectacular historical houses is at #81. It announces its permanence with the date printed on the brick of 1590 when the house was first constructed. This is actually the oldest residential house in all of Amsterdam. It was initially a traditional merchant’s house, highlighted by those gorgeous wooden shutters. Before these brick buildings were constructed, in the medieval period in Amsterdam, all houses were built out of wood. But sadly, three great fires which ripped through the city destroyed all of these original homes. After the last fire in 1597, the government ensured all new houses were made in brick to help prevent future widespread fires. I adore the stepped gable located on this house; the red brick and white stone atop each step really highlight the shape and makes it so unique.

Melkmeisjesbrug

The Melkmeisjesbrug will take you from Herengracht over the Brouwersgracht. The word “Melkmeisjes” means “milk market.” When the bridge was first built in the 17th century, it was located near the large Dutch milk market. You’ll notice a set of three burgundy-coloured bollards situated on either end of the bridge. These were installed to prevent large vehicles from passing over the old bridge, which cannot withstand the weight. This was actually the first place they were installed. They are called the Amsterdammertje (Dutch for ‘little one from Amsterdam’). They are imprinted with three Saint Andrew’s Crosses from the coat of arms of Amsterdam.

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Singel Canal

Walking south from the Haarlemmer Sluice we will come upon the last of the canals in the Canal Belt; the Singel Canal. The Singel encircled Amsterdam’s medieval centre, serving as a moat around the city until 1585. The Dutch word “omsingelen” means “to surround” as the canal literally surrounded and protected the medieval old town as a makeshift fortress of water. The trench was dug in 1428, making it the oldest of the channels in the central belt.

Singel 7

On the east side of the canal at Singel #7, we find the little slice of a house. It barely registers as a house at all when you pass by it. This is indeed the narrowest house in Amsterdam. The house is literally only a door’s width wide, with a singular window located on the second floor. Since we know that the property was taxed based on width, this building would have been a real penny pincher.

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Ronde Lutherse Kerk

Although it’s now used as an event space, the imposing Ronde Lutherse Kerk or Nieuwe Lutherse Kerk was once the former New Lutheran church in Amsterdam. It was built in 1668 as the second and thus “new” Lutheran Church after the Old Lutheran Church had become too small. This building couldn’t cope with the many Lutheran immigrants coming into the city.

Lutheran architecture forbids the construction of bell towers, so instead, the architect wanted to make the great dome as the central focus of the church. Crowning the top of the dome is the Lutheran swan. The swan is a famous symbol in the Lutheran church because of its connection with Jan Hus. Hus was a key predecessor to the Protestant movement in Bohemia during the 16th century. His teachings had a strong influence on Martin Luther. When Hus was sentenced to be burnt alive, just before he said, “today you will roast a goose, but a swan will rise from the ashes.”

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Londenvaarders

The area along the Singel canal from the Ronde Lutherse Kerk to the Lijnbaanssteeg is known as Londenvaarders. This part of the canal was where ships coming in from London would be docked. Anyone walking around this area during the 17th century would find English sailors and merchants everywhere they looked and it became a de facto embassy for Englishmen.

Singel 36

Look across the canal at #36 Singel. From this further away vantage point, you can really appreciate the elegance of the beautiful cornice in Louis XV style, which tops the house. In the centre of the richly decorated balustrade is this incredible carving of the god Mercury lounging, holding in his hand a large purse. Surrounding the relaxed god is a series of items relating to the trade industry like barrels, wine and animals. The house was originally built in 1763 for shipowner and trader Tamme IJsbrandsz Beth. Beth was troubled by the arrival of the British and the fact the London ships took over the area and wanted to create a powerful facade that would show his dominance over the British fleets.

Blauwburgwal

Continue along the Singel canal until you come to the Blauwburgwal canal on your left. The Blauwburgwal canal is the shortest waterway in the city center. It is sandwiched right between the Singel and the Herengracht by two scenic bridges. The trees which line either side of the little canal makes this such a picturesque little scene to stop in and look at.

De Dolphijn

Head back to the Single Canal and make your way down to #140. This is better known as the house De Dolphijn. The house was built in the 17th century for soap merchant Hendrick Laurensz Spieghel. The front facade consists of two identical stepped gables made of that iconic red brick with sandstone highlights. The house is one of the best examples of Dutch Baroque architecture in the style of Hendrick de Keyser.

The main characteristics of this style were the symmetrical facades created from brick using classical references. This can be seen with the addition of the images of Greek masks featured above the window pediments on the first floor. The house is one of the few facades in Amsterdam that still has scroll ornaments along the gables. Originally the house featured dolphins on both sides gable. The dolphin was the emblem of the Spieghel family, and therein is where the nickname of the house came from.

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The Torensluis

As we continue down the Single Canal, we come up the enormous Torensluis bridge. This bridge is the oldest and widest bridge in the entire city, preserved since 1648. It measures a whopping 42 meters wide! The word “Torensluis” means “tower lock,” as the bridge was once home to a great tower that stood here until the mid-19th-century. Looking back at the bridge from further along the canal, study the area under the bridge along either side of the arches. There you can spot several small barred windows. Beneath the bridge, there was once a dungeon and prison cells connected to the old tower. Truly an example of how ingenious the architects of the city were. Using every little bit of space to cram in more infrastructure.

Multatuli Statue

Most of the bridge is now used by the cafes nearby as patio space. But amidst these seats is a statue of Dutch writer Multatuli. Eduard Douwes Dekker, better known by his pen name “Multatuli,” was a Dutch writer best known for his satirical novel Max Havelaar. This book was one of the first to denounced the abuses of colonialism in the Dutch East Indies. It is a considered piece of writing from 1860. Multatuli was truly a man ahead of his time as an anti-colonialist.

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Singel 188

On the other side of the bridge at #188, we can find another great example of Amsterdam’s stone tablets. Most of the general public couldn’t read during the middle ages. Therefore to help businesses bring in customers, these stone tablets used pictorial images to depict their goods and services. This is a perfect example as the tablet above the doorway features a windmill. The house is named the “De Roo Oly Molen” or “The Red Oil Mill.” A few doors down at #194, you can find another example of a cobbler’s shop. This stone features a shoe and some cobbing equipment. Hundreds of years ago people would have just one shoe to their name and repairing their shoes was much more common than we do today. Early examples of sustainability.

Singel 192

The house at #192 features a beautiful neck gable with this curved pediment featuring a brightly painted bunch of grapes. The house was built in 1739 in Louis XIV style for the wine merchant Arend Roger. Just another example of how some merchants liked to advertise their businesses through their gable architecture. Something I genuinely wish we still did today, a great way to get to know your neighbours!

Singel 288

The gable along the top of the house at #288 features this wonderfully playful dolphin’s head. The dolphin appears to be bursting forth from the house with a spray of water cresting up behind him. Dolphins are a frequent symbol seen throughout Amsterdam, even though the canals are not home to these sea creatures. But the animals have a deep connection to the sailors and sailing merchants who would greet these great beasts on their voyages. Incorporating them into their home designs was a means of keeping that connection to the waters close to home.

Singel 326

The 18th-century house at #326 features the most incredible scene on either side of the beautiful neck gable. Sitting against the curved claw pieces are statues of Neptune and Mercury holding a golden trident and caduceus, respectively. Surrounding the lifting beams are also a swath of Acanthus leaves. Acanthus leaves are a symbol of enduring life. When combined with the images of Mercury, we can imagine that this house was perhaps a doctor’s residence.

Old Lutheran Church

The sizeable windowed building at #411 is the Old Lutheran Church. And when I say old, I mean old. It was built in 1632, that’s over 350 years ago! The church is a very, very odd one to visit. It is such an irregular shape. The floorplan curving to flank the edge of Spui road on the northern side of the building.

Singel 460

House #460 Singel is better known as the House Nürnberg or the Odeon building. It was designed by famed architect Philips Vingboons in 1661. However, previously, the lot had been used as a brewery as early as 1586. What makes this building stand out is the tall neck gable. The building is built in a rich, dark burgundy brick with contrasting light sandstone curved claw pieces decorated with elaborate festoons. Two oeil-de-boeuf windows stand below either side of the claw pieces. A large Cartouche surrounds the huge lifting hook. The festoons from the upper levels hang down below the windows. Looks like the building has been decorated for the holidays every day of the year!

Bloemenmarkt

Walking along Singel crossing the Koningsplein, we enter the great Bloemenmarkt. The Bloemenmarkt is the world’s only floating flower market founded in 1862. Back then, this part of the city was where flower growers would enter the canal to sell their plants. They travelled on large barges that floated beside the canal and buyers would simply hop on the barge. The barge would sit beside the streets and return to their ships once all the flowers were sold. Today the barges are affixed to the mainland. Sadly, much of the original flower market has disappeared over the years. Few to no vendors actually sell blooming flowers here. Instead, the market is mainly a tourist attraction with gift shops and souvenir stands. These focus primarily on tulip paraphernalia.

Tulip Bulbs

Some of the vendors do sell fresh tulip bulbs which you can bring home to plant. But only if your country allows them through customs (be sure to check!) Although it’s super touristy, I actually loved looking at the varieties of tulip bulbs for sale. It’s incredible to see how many different colours and even new “designer” flowers have been created. They were made by combining different strains of tulips together in the lab. If you can try to ignore the hoards of tourists and just focus on this, you might actually get something out of a visit to the Bloemenmarkt. But the Bloemenmarkt can get super crowded! You only need to see a portion of it to get the idea. I would advise jumping down Sint Jorisstraat and then walking along Reguliersdwarsstraat until you reach Vijzelstraat. This little back street is a great way to avoid the crowds.

Munttoren

Walking over Muntsluis bridge to find your way to the great Munttoren (Mint Tower), which sits at the intersection of the Amstel River and the Singel Canal. The great tower was initially located at the entrance to the city’s main gates along Amsterdam’s medieval wall. The original building was made in 1480 and consisted of two towers and a guardhouse. After the great fire of 1618, the tower was rebuilt as you see it today in Amsterdam Renaissance style. The entire structure was replaced in 1885 but maintains its medieval design.

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In the 17th-century, during the Dutch wars against England and France, the city was occupied by these factions. The transportation of coins from their location outside the city was impossible with these restrictions. So the guardhouse was set up as a temporary mint, giving the tower its official nickname. The building features a beautiful tower design by Hendrick de Keyser. They installed a clock face on every side of the spire so that citizens on every corner of town could look to it to tell the time.

The Dancing Houses

Make a quick detour over the Halvemaansbrug and onto ‘s-Gravelandseveer street. From here you have the best vantage point over to the famous Amsterdam Dancing Houses. Since houses in Amsterdam were built upon muddy marshland and stand on old pine-wood poles, some of the houses have begun to shift and sink over time. Surprisingly it’s not the weight of the house that creates the unevenness, but the water level. So long as the pole remains under the water, its integrity is preserved. But the second the water level drops, the wood can start to rot. The rot weakens the structure and causes this sagging effect. Although many houses are sinking, this row of houses seems to be suffering the most. They have become affectionately known as the “dancing queens” or “dancing houses.” The wobbling levels making them appear as though they are dancing up and down.

Grimburgwal

Just around the corner from the Dancing Houses is the Grimburgwal. This canal marks the outskirts of the Red Light District. The Grimburgwal also marks the entrance to the Medieval centre of Amsterdam. This narrow watery passageway connects the great Oudezijds Voorburgwal to the Amstel river via the Rokin canal. The name “Grimburgwal” comes from the word “grim,” which means “muddy ditch” and “burgwal” which means earthen wall. This part of the city was home to this large earthen wall dug out along the muddy waters used to protect the medieval city. The wall was destroyed in 1384 during the city’s expansion. The Grimburgwal remained the city’s southern canal border until 1425 when the canal belt began to be constructed. It’s a small, almost forgettable canal today, but its rich history is something to take note of.

The view from the Amstel River along the medieval Groenburgwal, with the steeple of the Southern Church in the background, has been painted by several famous painters over the years. Rembrandt himself would come here to paint as the canal was so close to his home. But the most famous painting of the canal was made in the 19th-century by impressionist painter Monet.

Kloveniersburgwal

From Grimburgwal walk back towards the Aluminium Bridge, which crosses over the Kloveniersburgwal. The Kloveniersburgwal canal was dug out in the 15h-century originally designed as a defensive canal to protect the Oudeschanst. The canal’s name comes from the division of the civic guards called the ‘kloveniers‘ who worked along with these defences.

During the Second World War, Kloveniersburgwal was the border of the Jewish quarter. It was here that the Germans started to segregate the Jewish population of Amsterdam before sending most of them off to concentration camps. At one point, more than 25,000 Jewish people were living here. Sadly, 75-80% of the people from the neighbourhood were deported and murdered by the Nazis. After the war, this part of town must have been hauntingly empty, a constant memory of the loss.

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal

Walk west along Vendelstraat, through the pedestrian walkway north towards the Sleutelbrug, which looks out over the entrance to the Oudezijds Voorburgwal. The Oudezijds Voorburgwal (often abbreviated to OZ Voorburgwal) means “old city walls.” This area was where the defensive ramparts continued around the old medieval city. The canal was originally nothing more than a little creek but was dug out to create this large waterway in the 14th century. As the canal was one of the first large expansions, it is where we can find some of the oldest buildings in Amsterdam.

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Red Light District

During the Dutch Golden Age, the canal was a hub for commerce and ships coming into port. This influx of sailors led to the development of what we now call the “Red Light District.” While some people only come here to gawk at the red light dancing girls, there is so much more to this historic canal to see and appreciate.

Despite the fact that today the area is known for its illicit activities, in the middle ages, the canal was where you could find a large number of monasteries, churches and religious institutions. During the 17th century, many wealthy Catholic merchants made this part of the city their home. Back then, the area was nicknamed the “Velvet defence-canal“. Sort of a dig at the rich merchants who lived here who were known for dressing in fancy velvet clothing.

House at the Three Canals

At the intersection of the Oudezijds, the Achterburgwal and the Grimburgwal, we find the Huis Aan De Drie Grachten or House on the Three Canals. Name because it is located at this meeting point of these three famous waterways. This house is so fantastical, designed in high Dutch Renaissance style. I especially love the large leaded glass window and set-in brick arches above them. The charming red wooden shutters making it so classical Dutch looking. The house was originally two separate lots built around 1610!

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The house was designed for bricklayer Claes Adriaensz van Delft. Seeing as it was made for a bricklayer it is only appropriate that the bricks on this house are among the most impressive parts of the entire building. During the 1930s, a bookstore was opened in the house. Inside, the various bookshelves hid behind them, secret compartments where Jewish people on the run from the Germans could hide. These hidden compartments were only discovered in 2005 during renovations to the building. Adding to the already illustrious history of the building.

Agnietenkapel

Behind this grand arched entrance, is the doorway into the old Agnietenkapel, also known as the Chapel of the Convent of Saint Agnes. This is one of the oldest structures in the city, dating back to 1470. In the 15th century, the area along the southern half of Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal was called the stille zijde or the “quiet side.” This so-called peaceful part of town became popular with religious institutions looking for a monastic place to build their home. Away from the hustle and bustle of the raucous trade center. Very ironic today that all these churches are now located in what would be considered the most unholy neighbourhoods, the Red Light District.

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Athenaeum Illustre

In 1578, when the Catholic city government was deposed in favour of the Protestant one, all Catholic churches and monasteries were demolished. This was called the Alteratie, or the “alternative.” But the Agnietenkapel was thought to be too beautiful to be destroyed. Instead, in 1631 it was converted into the Athenaeum Illustre. The Athenaeum Illustre, or Amsterdamse Atheneum, was a city-sponsored ‘illustrious school.’ An Athenaeum Illustre was neither a university nor just a school. It fell somewhere between where it would teach at an academic level, but there were no degrees given out. In the 17th century, each province was only allowed one official university, and Holland already had a university at Leiden. It wasn’t until 1815 that it was recognized as an official academic institution where diplomas could be given out. Leading to its transformation into the University of Amsterdam.

Church Gate

The Agnietenpoort or Church Gate is fantastically carved with so many ornaments placed along the archway. You can see why they decided to preserve it when it changed hands from the church. On the top, set into a large shield is the Amsterdam coat of arms. The coat of arms of Amsterdam consists of a red shield (here just plain stone) with three silver Saint Andrew’s Crosses down the middle highlighted by a black pale. The black pale symbolizes the Amstel River, while the three crosses represent the three dangers of Old Amsterdam: fire, floods and the Black Death. St. Andrew is the patron saint of Amsterdam as he is the patron saint of fisherman as the city was originally just a small fishing village.

Surrounding the coat of arms is typical Vredeman de Vries motifs. Hans Vredeman de Vries was a Dutch Renaissance architect best known for his publication in 1583 on garden designs. Inside this book were many drawings of floral ornamentations that have since been referenced ever since on buildings all over the city. A large cartouche frames the emblem with the year 1631 below and a roaring lion on top. The Dutch Republic Lion was the badge of the Union of Utrecht and a precursor of the current coat of arms of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. You’ll find lion symbols all over the city to represent this ancient heraldry.

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Amsterdam Municipal Pawnshop

Pawnshops have truly been around forever! Proof positive of this fact is the old Municipal Pawnshop found along the canal. This building was established in Amsterdam in 1616. It was created as a municipal charity to protect poor people from shady loan sharks. These loan sharks would lend out money at a sky-high interest rate that made it impossible to ever pay back and get out of debt. The Amsterdam Municipal Pawnshop, or Stadsbank van Lening, was started as a not-for-profit city bank that still operates today! It is considered the oldest bank in Amsterdam and one of the oldest banks in the world!

Above the doorway, you’ll find the city coat of arms topped by the Emperor’s crown. In gold lettering, along the pediment over the doorway, is a poem in Dutch. It reads, “Have you neither money nor property, pass this door. Have you the last, and do you miss the first, come to me. Give pledge, I give you money, why should I guarantee you? Or isn’t it enough that you live off mine? But if you return your pledge, you must take care in time. That my principal will return with interest. I help you and me and show it to the investigators. Of my secrets, the grave of forgotten usurers.“

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The Prinsenhof

Another holy institution located along the Oudezijds Voorburgwal was the St. Cecilia Monastery. The original church was built in the early 15th century but after the Alteratie, the Catholic institution was converted into the city’s Prinsenhof in 1581. It was named the ‘Prinsenhof‘ after Prince William of Orange. In the late 16th century, the prince of Orange was the ruler of the Netherlands and would often use the building as his primary residence. It was later used as the Admiralty in the 17th century.

Prinsenhof as City Hall

In 1808 King Louis Bonaparte pulled the old switcharoo and wanted to convert the beautiful Dam City Hall into his Royal Palace. This meant the city needed to find a new location for its city hall. Seeing as the Prinsenhof was little used at this time, it was selected as their new City Hall. The building was used as accommodation for visiting dignitaries, mayors and, of course, city council meetings. When the city council moved in, the building saw a huge change in the architecture to suit its new function.

Amsterdam School Style

The new style of architecture which came out of the building of the new city hall was called, “Amsterdam School Style.” Like all variations of Dutch architecture, it heavily featured brickwork. The use of bricks is the primary building material in Amsterdam is due to the fact that the city’s access to clay. Clay is found in abundance around the rivers which encircle the city. Amsterdam School structures are also characterized by a rounded appearance, as demonstrated here by the curved facade bowing out towards the canal. The style also tended to favour decorative masonry, wrought iron accents, spires and ‘ladder’ windows. The style is slightly reminiscent of the Art Deco design aesthetic but with a Dutch interpretation. The decorative masonry here features large artistic pillars along the first floor. They depict men and women as symbols correlating to administrative virtues such as simplicity, courage, and diligence.

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City Hall Public Urinal

Across from Oudezijds Voorburgwal #195 is a small brick and stone cylindrical structure which is actually a public urinal! A urinal probably seems like a very strange thing to make a point to visit. But this urinal has become an actual National Monument. It was built in 1926 and renovated for the new City hall. The urinal was designed to fit into the same uniform Amsterdam school style as the City Hall. Right on top of the urinal entrance, you’ll find another sculpture designed by artist Hildo Krop. This sculpture matches the same sculptures on the pillars outside the City Hall. If nature calls, men can still use the rudimentary bathroom today!

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal 187

The Dutch Classical black brick building at #187 has a very interesting gable design, specifically around the ornate claw pieces. The house was built in 1663 for an American tobacco trader. We can tell the house was designed for a merchant working in the Americas because of the imagery featured in the claw pieces. We can see sculptures of the merchant’s enslaved Africans holding tobacco leaves. Above them are pictured personifications of indigenous workers carrying large harvest baskets. 

Amsterdam’s Architecture of Colonial Exploitation

Many parallels can be drawn between America’s colonization and the enslavement of the African people to the Netherlands’ own dark colonial past. Everyone knows that the “Dutch Golden Age” was the city’s great boom in the 17th century brought about by its free and tolerant society and its enormous trading empire. With the creation of the Dutch East India Company, the Netherlands had an empire of ships that roamed the coastlines of Asia and Africa.

But it wasn’t just spice and silks they brought home. They also colonized countries and robbed them of their natural resources. And although the Dutch didn’t bring slaves back to their home country, the colonies suffered through a period of around 200 years of slavery until it was abolished in 1863. While houses like this and other images of slavery are tough to observe, it’s essential to understand and accept this period of Amsterdam’s history. You can learn a lot more about Amsterdam’s Architecture of Colonial Exploitation in this great article!

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 136

The house on Oudezijds Voorburgwal #136 was first built in the 16th century. Above the doorway, there is an iconic wooden relief featuring the famous navy officer Admiral Cornelis Tromp. Cornelis Maartenszoon Tromp lived in Amsterdam but never at this particular residence. In fact, the relief wasn’t installed until well after his death. The house was purchased by trader Jan Pranger who had a great reverence for Cornelis Tromp as a fellow sea traveller.

Admiral Cornelis Tromp Stone Tablet

Tromp can be seen in his heroic pose, his hand resting on a large globe above a scrolled nautical chart in the background. The relief was hidden for years when the house was converted into a printing shop that covered up the old plaque. In the 1990s, when the house was being refurbished, the old emblem was released, and they went about restoring the brightly painted colours to their former glory. The house basement was converted into a sex shop in 1980 but today the house serves as the headquarters for the green energy initiative in Amsterdam.

Bulldog Coffeeshop

The Bulldog Coffeeshop is a famous landmark in the neighbourhood as it is the oldest “coffee shop” in Amsterdam. It was established in 1974 as a secret “speakeasy” for soft drugs. Despite multiple raids over the years, eventually, the city began to tolerate the sale of these drugs. Many people think marijuana is legal in Amsterdam, and surprisingly that’s not the case. But it is generally accepted, even by the police, who look the other way. The original location is worth visiting as you can discover more about the history of cannabis in Amsterdam inside.

Even if you don’t partake in the consumption, you can’t visit Amsterdam without seeing what these “coffee shops” are all about. Plus, this location has a full menu with food and drink options that don’t contain any drugs. I myself don’t partake but still had a blast checking them out and seeing what a comfortable, friendly atmosphere I was greeted with inside.

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The Oude Kerk

The crowing glory of the Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal is the grand Oude Kerk. The Oude Kerk or “Old Church” is named as such because is the oldest religious institution in the city. The first wooden part of the structure was constructed here in 1213! Originally the church was named St. Nicolas Church after the patron saint of the city.

The area they selected for the church was a sold mound in the otherwise marshy settlement. This allowed the church to grow in size without requiring much additional foundation work. Today the church sprawls out over 36,000 sq ft. Each generation of Amsterdam’s religious elite seemed to have added their own personal touch in its expansion. In the 14th century, the side aisle was lengthened, and the great medieval wooden vaults were installed. These remain to this day are the oldest medieval wooden vault in all of Europe. The vaults were made out of great Estonian oak planks. Some of the plants were stained in various colours to look like paintings on the ceiling. Bands of florals surround each part of the vault with golden stars decorating the keystones. These vaults are still thought to provide some of the best acoustics even amongst the more modern churches.

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Miracle of Amsterdam

In the 14th century, the church was the site of the “Miracle of Amsterdam.” One day, a dying man accepted the sacramental bread during communion. But after ingesting it, he began to vomit it up in a fit of pain. When the priests threw the vomit into the fire, the bread did not burn, and the act was proclaimed a miracle. Even stranger than the miracle itself was the fact that the vomitted bread was preserved in a relic chest and kept inside the church. Sadly their miracle relic was one of the many items which disappeared during the Alterie.

Stained Glass

In the 15th century, a north and south transept were added to change the floorplan of the church into a cross shape. The beautiful large windows inside the church were installed in 1406 and were once covered in vibrant stained glass. More and more windows were added over the years, totalling 33 large-scale artfully made scenes. Sadly during the great fire of 1536 and the gunpowder explosion in 1654, all of these original windows were destroyed.

Most of the windows are now plain glass replacements but, beginning in the 20th century, these windows began to be restored. Using paintings, drawings and historical architectural plans, the church museum started to create modern interpretations of the ancient windows. There were created by artist Joep Nicolas. The windows depict various biblical stories, such as the Parable of the Prodigal Son and the story of baby Moses. But they also commissioned some modern, secular scenes as well. Inside the Memorial window are depictions of WWII victims who were killed during the Nazi occupation. The Libration window also commemorates the Netherlands’ liberation from the German and Japanese occupiers.

Oude Kerk & the Alterie

After the Catholic Reformation in Amsterdam during the late 16th century, the church was looted and defaced on multiple occasions. This stripped the church of much of its original decorations save for a few paintings. The thieves couldn’t reach them as they were installed high up under the vaults. After the Reformation, the church was used as a meeting house for the public. People would come here to escape the cold and the rain to gossip, sell their goods, and it was even used as a de-facto homeless shelter.

In the 17th century, the church was reconsecrated and been given a fresh coat of paint. New decorations were installed, including a new oak screen which referred to the desecration during Reformation. It states, “The prolonged misuse of God’s church, was here undone again in the year seventy-eight.”

Rembrandt & Oude Kerk

One of the most famous Dutch painters, Rembrandt himself, was a frequent visitor to the Oude Kerk. All of his children were baptized inside the temple, and it is one of the few original buildings left in Amsterdam where the painter roamed the halls. His wife, Saskia van Uylenburgh was buried here in 1642 inside the Holy Sepulchre. Another famous figure buried is naval hero Jacob van Heemskerck who was a central figure in Rembrandt’s masterpiece The Night Watch.

Today, the church is used as a contemporary art gallery where the ancient architecture is the backdrop for modern art. Entry into the church costs €12 for adults and €7 for students; children under 13 are free. On Sunday mornings, the church still opens its doors for worshippers for free but only for those serious about coming in to pray.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 57

Across the bridge from the Oude Kerk at #57 is a gorgeous example of Amsterdam Renaissance architecture made by the famous architect Hendrick de Keyser. They call the house the De Gecroonde Raep. It features one of the finest examples of stepped gables in Amsterdam. With these gorgeous scalloped stone carvings above each step. The facade also features these beautiful brace arches above the windows with smallmasks set into the pediments. Iconic features of Keyser are the double pilasters with cartouches set in between the brick pillars.

Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic Museum)

Hidden behind an otherwise simple brick facade is an example of a “schiller” or “clandestine church.” After the Reformation, Catholics needed to practise their religion undercover. A few old houses on the canal were converted into these secret churches. This church went by the name Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic Museum). It was built by a Catholic merchant in 1663 who transformed his third-floor attic space into the beautiful yet cramped religious wonderland you find today. Personally, I adore the pink-painted balustrades and railings, such a unique touch.

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Visiting the Museum

After Catholics could practice in public once more, the church was exposed and opened as a museum in 1888. This makes it the second oldest museum in Amsterdam. Today, it remains a museum visited by over 85,000 people annually. In addition to viewing the secret church, you can also tour the 17th-century merchant canal house interior. Tickets are €14 for adults and €7 for children and students.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 18

House at #18 bears a striking (if not a simplified version) of the house saw a few doors down at #57. The curved arches above double pilasters are a clear sign of the work of Hendrick de Keyser. Above the third floor, there are face masks, but on the lower levels, we find lion masks. Above the stone gable is a relief depicting the legendary castle of Egmond aan den Hoef.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 14

The Het Wapen van Riga, at #14, is a 17th-century merchant’s house. In the center, we find relief of the coat of arms of the country of Riga. The original house was built for a wealthy merchant who was indeed from Riga and this emblem was a way of paying homage to his home. The lions are a powerful symbol of the city of Riga. Two golden lions on a grey plinth were thought to symbolizes the strong foundation of the city and the bravery of its citizens. You can also find two of Riga’s lion heads protruding off either side of the stone gable on the first floor.

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Oudezijds Kolk

Walk over and stand on the old Armbrug bridge to look out over the Oudezijds Kolk. During the Middle Ages, most of the canals in Amsterdam looked more like this canal. The old canals didn’t feature any sidewalks or laneways as the primary mode of transport was solely boats. When the newer canals around the canal belt were built, the boom of horse-drawn carriages had taken over. These canals were built to feature roads for horses and eventually cars to travel along. This canal is one of the last remains medieval canals in Amsterdam and a gem to treasure.

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Weeping Tower of Amsterdam

At the end of the Oudezijds Kolk canal, you will find the largest of the three remaining medieval city towers. It goes by the Weeping Tower of Amsterdam. The legend goes that the wives of the sailors who were off to sea would come up to the tower to wave their last goodbye. Tears obviously ensued, echoing down the canals. The life of a sailor was a tough one as storms, scurvy, war, and pirates were all things that a sailor would come up against at sea. And most of these wives knew that upon saying goodbye there was a good chance they would never return.

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This brings us to the end of our canal tour of Amsterdam. Hopefully, you’ve discovered more about the history, architecture, canals, and culture spread out across the waterways throughout our day together. There are so many more secrets to be found down all the different side canals in this city so let me know if you want to share some of your favourite spots!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Amsterdam Canal Tour On Foot first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. #1 Damrak Dancing Houses
2. #2 Openbare Bibliotheek Amsterdam Rooftop Terrace
3. #3 Keukenhof
4. #4 Rijksmuseum Bike Under Pass
5. #5 Cuypers Library
6. Alkmaar
7. The Jordaan Neighbourhood
8. Staalmeestersbrug Bridge
9. Bicycle racks
10. Prinsengracht Canal
11. Night on the canal
12. De Negen Straatjes
13. Herengracht
14. Wind Mills
    • Happy Travels, Adventurers.

#1 Damrak Dancing Houses

The ‘Dancing Houses‘ are truly one of the most iconic images from Amsterdam. Everything from postcards to clay magnets, ceramics and textiles are covered in images of these historic houses. Their unique narrow gabled exteriors face out onto the mouth of the majestic Amstel River. The design of these ‘grachtenpandens,‘ otherwise known as “canal houses,” was developed in the 17th century. The dancing houses were built for wealthy merchants who would use the lower levels along the canal as their storage warehouses. Then the upper levels were used as their living spaces. But the design of these tall and narrow houses was not originally an aesthetic choice. Back then taxes were calculated based on the width of the house and not the height. So the answer to building a large house without high taxes as to build upward.

The reason they are now called ‘Dancing Houses’ is because of their uneven and crooked appearance as if they are dancing about. When these homes were constructed on the canal the foundations were built on piles. “Piles” were huge wooden poles that were drilled deep into the wet soil. But over time, the stakes have begun to shift, resulting in this rather quirky and seemingly uneven appearance.

#2 Openbare Bibliotheek Amsterdam Rooftop Terrace

The Openbare Bibliotheek Amsterdam (or OBA) is the coalition of all the public libraries in Amsterdam. And their flagship location can be found just east of Amsterdam Central Station. The OBA Oosterdok or Central Library was built in the early 2000s and is one of the most amazing modern libraries in Europe. The building is spread out over ten floors and in addition to millions of books, it includes an auditorium, an exhibition room, Library Museum, and 2000 parking spaces, just for bicycles!

But the best place to visit for tourists is La Place Restaurant. This is the library’s own rooftop restaurant terrace located on the 7th floor. From up here, you have a magnificent view of the whole of Amsterdam – probably the best panoramic view in the city! And best of all, so many people don’t even know it up here! As it caters to lots of students who come here to study, the restaurant is reasonably priced and even serves alcohol to boot! It’s the ideal place to grab a spot of lunch and enjoy a Dutch beer in the sunshine while looking out over the city.

#3 Keukenhof

The Keukenhof is known as the Garden of Europe, and if you’ve ever had the chance to walk through their green fields, you will truly understand why. From March to mid-May, millions of rainbow-coloured tulips (4.5 million to be exact) bloom over the 32 hectares of gardens inside. They create what can only be described as a blanket of fantastical aromas and ethereal colours which cover the Dutch countryside.

This kind of spectacle is unmissable if you’re visiting Amsterdam. I would even say you should try to plan your trip around the bloom timeline. Tulips are perhaps one of the most famous icons of the city and seeing them in person, in such incredible variety, is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The flowers were first brought to Europe in the 16th century and caught on in popularity in the Netherlands where their hearty stalks grew well despite the inclement weather. Tulips became a status symbol, and in the 17th century, they were worth their weight in gold, literally! A picture with these valuable flowers is still one of the best ways to show off your visit to Amsterdam!

#4 Rijksmuseum Bike Under Pass

The Rijksmuseum is the crowning glory of the museum square district and is home to some of the Netherlands’ greatest artists. The Dutch National Museum originally opened in 1798 in the Hague. Back then, the Hague was the seat of the Netherlands’ government. When the museum moved to Amsterdam, a new design was commissioned by Pierre Cuypers to house the artistic treasures. His richly decorated gothic and Renaissance-inspired structure won over the public and still do this day is seen as one of the greatest architectural marvels in Holland.

Sadly, 20th-century modernizations essentially whitewashed the interiors of their original character. So in 2003, the historic society started on a ten-year-long renovation to restore the museum to its former glory. During the renovation, they also managed to transform the gothic vaulted underpass to allow pedestrians and bikes to anjoy the splendours of the building. This underpass is such a stunning location to see for yourself and if you can avoid the traffic early in the morning it makes for a great photo spot!

#5 Cuypers Library

The Rijksmuseum is a captivating place to visit but for me, the real star of the show is the library! The Cuypers Library inside the Rijksmuseum is one of the most fantastical libraries in the world. Stepping in here feels like walking into a movie set or the Wizarding World of Harry Potter. Stacks and stacks of books climb up the walls surrounded by arching tiled vaults. The library is the largest and oldest historical library in the Netherlands and has been preserved for the ages to feel like a slice of history. Thankfully, the library is open to students, art historians and also the general public! There is no bad spot to take a picture here, as the towering bookshelves make the perfect backdrop.

Alkmaar

If you’re into cheese, then you must head to Alkmaar. Here on Friday (and sometimes Tuesday) mornings, you’ll find the oldest cheese market in Amsterdam, opened since 1365! Alkmaar is only 30 minutes away from Amsterdam on the train and well worth the short journey. Hundreds of wheels of cheese are carried out to sell to both residents and restaurants alike. Cheese haulers carry around their GIANT wheels of cheese for the marvel of the on-looking tourists. But they don’t use their hands. Instead, they carry the mammoth wheels on enormous green skies. Two haulers are tied to either end and look as if they are gliding around the market. Who doesn’t love a photo against the great wall of cheese?!

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The Jordaan Neighbourhood

The Jordaan neighbourhood has quickly become one of the most expensive and luxurious locations in the Netherlands. The streets are home to upscale art galleries, fanciful boutiques, and bustling marketplaces. The area has been popular with the art community for a century, and Rembrandt himself spent the last years of his life in his house on the Rozengracht canal. The backdrop of rows and rows of tightly packed houses makes for the most fantastic patterned backdrop! The houses and canals in this area seem to be less frequented by tourists so it’s a great spot to get away from the crowds.

Staalmeestersbrug Bridge

Standing on the Staalmeestersbrug Bridge you have one of the best views in Amsterdam! The bridge looks out over the canal towards the great Zuiderkerk church. The bridge crosses over the Groenburgwal that connects the Raamgracht with the Amstel. This area of town was once the site of the Amstel fortress in the 16th century. Back then, it was also the textile district where you’d find the city’s cloth weaves, wool markers and clothing markets.

Bicycle racks

Cycling in Amsterdam is the most popular form of transportation in the city. Over 847,000 bicycles are being ridden in the city at one time; that’s 1.91 bicycles per household! To store all these bikes the city had to build colossal bicycle parking lots. You can now find these jumbled over the city. There is nothing more Dutch than a photo amongst the hundreds of bikes that fill the outskirts of the town! Head over to the Bicycle Parking at Central Station to get a bike photo with the magnificent train station in the background!

Prinsengracht Canal

Prinsengracht, or the Prince’s Canal, is one of the three primary historic canals in the city. And being one of Golden Age Canals means having the best real estate. The channel was named after Prince of Orange (an old medieval ruling title). My favourite spot for a photo op on the Prinsengracht is on the bridge parallel to the Amstel River. From here you get a shot looking down at the length of the Prinsengracht. Quirky and charming houseboats float on either side of the water and you can see the repeating bridges crossing far off in the distance.

Night on the canal

Nighttime in Amsterdam means all the canals come alive. The stars, street lights and reflections of the buildings dance on the surface of the water. Nighttime transforms the streets into a new cavalcade of excitement. Fairy lights are strung up around the arches of the brides to highlight the design and keep boaters safe. It feels like there is no particular area that makes the best impression; simply wander around to find where your heart is calling!

De Negen Straatjes

De Negen Straatjes or “Nine Little Streets” is the nickname of an area on the Canal Belt given to, you guessed it, nine important streets. The name of these streets is all very significant. Reestraat, Berenstraat, Wolvenstraat, Huidenstraat and Runstraat are all named after types of work carried out here in centuries past. And this part of town where were they would process animal skins to be turned into various products and clothing. The names of the streets correspond to the types of animals used for skins; deer, bear, wolf and cow. My favourite spot inside the nine streets is standing beside the bridge on Singel street. The view from here is so scenic, and best of all there are some lovely cafes along the side of the canal. Take a seat and enjoy some quality people-watching along with a beer or cup of coffee.

Herengracht

The Gouden Bocht (or the Golden Bend) is located on Herengracht, the second of four extensive waterways on the canal belt. This area is trendy for photographers as it is known for its large, elegant canal houses. Many of the houses here were built for some of the wealthiest and more prestigious inhabitants of Amsterdam. Everyone from regents to mayors and traders lived here. It was like Amsterdam’s Beverly Hills. Having a house here meant you were of the highest status!

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Wind Mills

If you’re only in Amsterdam for a short time, you’ll want a picture with a windmill! Nothing is more iconically Dutch than a windmill. While most of them are found in the countryside, you can still spot a few within the city limits. Just a 30-minute walk from the central station is the old De Gooyer Mill. It is the tallest wooden mill in the Netherlands at 26.6 meters high. The structure dates back to 1609 and it’s amazing to see the industrious nature of these buildings designed even hundreds of years ago!

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There is so much more to see and do in Amsterdam but this short guide is sure to help you find the most iconic locations to document your trip! Let me know in the comment what you’re favourite part of Amsterdam is or where you are most excited to visit.

Happy Travels, Adventurers.

The post Most Instagrammable Places You Need to Visit in Amsterdam first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

I asked the locals, trying to get their honest opinion. I was surprised to hear how positively even the locals, not just the tourists, spoke about it! With so many resounding responses we decided to make our way down to Xochimilco. To see what all the fuss was about. And let me just say right off the bat, it was my favourite thing we did while in Mexico City! And I would implore everyone to go and see it for themselves.

Guide to Xochimilco

1. History
2. Access
   • Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas
   • Bus to Xochimilco
   • Group Tours
3. The Trajineras
4. How Much does a Trajinera Cost?
   • Groups and Collectivos
5. Food
6. La Isla de Las Muñecas
7. Entertainment along the Canal
8. Artisans & Merchant Boats
9. Bathrooms?
10. Other Sights along the way
    • Our Experience

History

Xochimilco is the Venice of Mexico. It’s an enormous network of canals which spread across this southern district of Mexico City. There are over 170 km of canals which spread out in all different directions. Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico City, the indigenous people of Mexico had created an incredible network of canals. They used these both as a means of transport and as a way to ensure there was a constant supply of water throughout the country.

Xochimilco means “Floating Gardens” as the Aztecs filled the land with thousands of flowers and vegetation. These fields were called chinampas and were artificial agricultural plots rich in minerals. After the Spanish invasion, they dried up many of the canals in the centre of Mexico City in order to make room for modern roads. But the canals in Xochimilco remained. Today, Xochimilco is UNESCO World Heritage Site as it preserves this Aztec technology.

Access

To access Xochimilco my recommendation would be to take an Uber or find a local guide. Local guides can be both your driver as well as a local ‘fixer’ along the way. If you simply want to get an Uber there are plenty of drivers always on the road to get you there and back. The trip takes about 45 minutes depending on where you’re staying in the city. But there can be heavy traffic at peak times of day which will increase the time and cost. A one-way ride with Uber costs around $10-$15 USD but if there is heavier traffic it could be as much as $25. That’s still very cheap for a 45-minute ride but just something to keep in mind.

Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas

Be sure to arrive at the ‘Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas‘. There are multiple embarcaderos, or ‘piers’, which service the canals. But the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas is the official pier to catch your boat and where you’ll find the most honest pricing. It’s also where you’ll find food, shopping and restrooms. If you’re taking an Uber to the pier you might find that along the way, people on bikes will stop your Uber along the way. They’ll tell you that the pier is closed and you need to access the canals through an alternative embarcadero. This is completely untrue and a scam to get you to access their alternative dock.

We asked a local if they’ve ever taken the route the bikers lead them on just to test out the scam. He said he had and was brought to a less than savoury-looking entrance. There he found only a few meagre boats which had clearly seen better days. He passed on their offer for a ride and then headed over to the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas. Which was, of course, not closed at all!

Bus to Xochimilco

If you want to save some money you can always take the bus. The metro is another option but the bus requires only one mode of transportation. Whereas the metro requires a few transfers. Take the bus number 47-A-XAlameda Oriente towards Xochimilco / Bosque de Nativitas. It takes about an hour depending on traffic and costs 30 pesos (about $2).

Group Tours

You can also access Xochilmilco with a group tour. These are often combined with trips to the Frida Khalo Museum or the Pyramids of Teotihuacan. If you really want a huge, group party type of atmosphere then this is the best way to get it. Personally, I find these tours a little pressed for time, often rushing you around from place and to place. I like to take things at my own pace so we chose to do this on our own. But if you’re short on time and want to see all these destinations this is a great option.

The Trajineras

‘Trajinera’ is the name for the iconic brightly coloured boats which float up and down the canals. They have flat bottoms and float throughout the canals, pushed along by a long wooden ore. The boat is controlled by your rower, just like a gondolier. In the center of the boat is a large table and about a dozen chairs on either side. So you can have an entire group ride on the same boat! The covered roof is perfect for keeping the sun off on hot days. But if you want to sit out in the sunlight the front of the boat has ample room.

The boats are vibrantly painted to resemble the flowers which used to grow on either sides of the canals hundreds of years ago. Each boat is given a different name. Half the fun is looking at all the different unique names. You can even call ahead (if you have a local to help) to get your name painted onto a boat. This is perfect for birthdays, bachelorette parties or quinceaneras.

How Much does a Trajinera Cost?

Getting a Trajinera inexpensively isn’t something you should expect when you come to Xochimilco. This isn’t one of those super budget-friendly excursions. The maximum rate set by the city is 500 pesos per hour, per boat (not per person as some tricky boatmen might quote you). You can try and haggle your way down but unless you have a good grasp on Spanish haggling, you’ll find it pretty difficult. I generally go with the set price as it’s a great deal and well worth the price you pay. Remember to tip your boatman at the end of the trip! Most of the money you pay at the start goes to his boss and the actual driver sees little of that. So a nice tip will go a long way for them.

Two-hours is the minimum time you can book as the boat drivers need to make it worth their while. I would go for two or three hours since it takes a while for them to get the boats out of the dock and away from the most crowded areas. When we first went we only booked two-hours and I honestly wish we’d gone out for longer!

Groups and Collectivos

If you meet fellow travellers along your travels it’s always worth asking them if they’re interested in a trip out to Xochimilco and that way you can save a bit of money going in as a group. Just be warned that you need to arrive as a group, not just glom onto other tourists who are asking about pricing who are already at the docks. There is also the ‘collectivo’ boat. This larger motorized boat runs every half an hour and only costs 30 pesos each way. It only runs back and forth from one station to another so its a much shorter, less leisurely ride, but if you’re looking for a budget option, this is it!

Once you have secured your boat, you set out from the dock into the canal. Most of the boats are located near the pier and blocked in by dozens of other boats. I didn’t even think it would be possible for us to get out but they did it! Make your way through the field of trajineras into the open water. This felt a little bit like a giant version of bumper cars and was so interesting to watch our driver make his way through the pile of rainbow-coloured boats.

Food

You are allowed to bring whatever food and drinks you want with you on the Trajineras. Just a few minutes away from the main pier is the Mercado Xochimilco, a great place to grab some fresh snacks and delicious treats. There are also various food stalls located along the pier when you arrive at the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas.

Depending on what day of the week you visit will change what’s open (the weekdays tend to have fewer stalls and sellers open than the weekends), but there’s always something to buy both on land and on the water. That’s right, there’s food available throughout the canals as you travel. Vendors with roasted corn, coconut water, tacos, cold beer and freshly made micheladas float up and down the canals. The prices are more than you’d pay in the market but you pay for the privilege of having them coming right to your boat!

La Isla de Las Muñecas

‘The Island of the Dolls‘ or ‘La Isla de Las Muñecas‘ is a famous attraction along these canals. You probably have seen it on Anthony Bourdain or Buzzfeed Unsolved. Many boatmen will say they’ll take you to the island in 2 hours but the truth is the real island is about 5 hours out from the main pier. There are various replicas of the island you’ll see along the main route but these are not the original. While I think a 5 hours journey might be a little much for most people, the farther out you go the more and more in touch you’ll get with the empty expanses of natural canals and yes, you’ll eventually come to the island of the dolls. Most people who really want to visit the island chose to hire a motorboat to bring them out to the island.

This place is infamous for being one of the most haunted places in Mexico City. Legend has it that the island’s caretaker daughter drowned in the canals after losing her favourite doll in the river. To honour the drowned girl’s spirit the father began collecting dolls and placing them all over the island. He began with a small altar surrounded with dolls and when he ran out of room began hanging the dolls all over the trees on the island. Being left out in the elements the dolls have begun to rot and take on a ghastly appearance. While the reproductions of the islands along the main canals aren’t the real thing, they are pretty interesting to see as you float along.

Entertainment along the Canal

As soon as we set off into the canals, the sound of musicians playing across the waters can immediately be heard. Mariachi bands floating on their own individual boats float down the river. As they pass you by they’ll offer to board your boat and play a song or two or really as many as you want! Songs cost about 150 pesos per number but are cheaper the more songs you want. We floated by and listened to various other boats with their mariachi bands and it sounded like so much fun that when one approached us we couldn’t refuse the offer.

We hired them for simply one song and asked our guide to choose his favourite tune to get played. It felt so special to have a group of almost 10 musicians board our boat and play just for us. In addition to the mariachi bands, you’ll also see various smaller boats with only 2 to 3 people playing the xylophones as they float down the canal. So much music fills these canals, then entire place feels like a giant party even in the middle of the week when we were told it would be a fairly calm day. One can only imagine has loud and exciting it would be on the weekend when this place is filled to the brim with people!

Artisans & Merchant Boats

As you float down the river people also come up to you on their boats selling various souvenirs and craft goods. You’ll see some selling embroidered blankets, others selling flower crowns inspired by the ancient flower fields. You’ll see wooden toys, traditional Mexican dolls and mini replicas of the Trajineras. While this might not be the cheapest place to buy souvenirs the experience of purchasing them on the water is pretty unique and makes for a great story.

Bathrooms?

We happily drank and ate as we floated down the river and the farther and farther out we got the more and more peaceful and quiet the canals became. When we were about an hour out from the docks, almost no boats remained with us. The canal was almost empty except for our boat and the occasional corn or drink seller. The lush trees contrasted perfectly against the bright blue sky. With all that eating and drinking you might be wondering, “how do you go to the bathroom?” Sounds like an odd question but it’s a very important one. Well, fear not! Many of the homes on the edges of the canal have installed their own public washrooms at the end of their lot.

The boats simply pull up and dock near the edge of the canal and you hop out. Most of these cost about 20 pesos but trust me when you need to go you’ll be more than happy to pay the money. They’re relatively clean but I would always recommend using hand sanitizer after using them since the water isn’t potable.

Other Sights along the way

Other things you’ll see along the canals are everything from florists to independent zoos where you can see some the amazing wildlife that lives in these rivers. A lot of these are a little bit of a tourist trap and while we didn’t see the need to go and visit them it was neat to pass them by.

Our Experience

Since we visited on Wednesday, the river was relatively calm and I could only imagine how busy it would’ve been in the weekend when hundreds and hundreds of people come here to celebrate and also just relax with their friends. Almost like an open-air park. We saw there were signs on the outside of houses along the canals selling everything from hot chocolates to coffee to fresh tacos and while most of these were closed, only open on weekends, it was still interesting to see how all the neighbours which face onto the canal have made a life serving the people of their community.

As we floated down the river we saw four boats all tied together having an enormous party. The music could be heard from miles as well as their laughter and jaunty singing. It looked like so much fun and we waved ‘hola’ to them as we passed by. They all waved back to us with huge smiles on their faces. Everyone in the canal in some way felt like family, and I loved that feeling of being surrounded by loving, happy people.

The Titanic

The name of our boat was ‘Titanic’ and our guide told us that this name had been requested by a Mexican comedy show which visited the canals a few months previously. They thought the name would be a funny one for the little skit they were filming there. It was indeed very funny and every other boat we passed would get a good chuckle as we floated past them.

I loved this trip so much and absolutely didn’t wanted to end! As the day has wore on, more and more people began to float the river and on our way back to the dock we past dozens of happening parties on their way out. We finished our day in Xochimilco with a meal by the river, so we could still enjoy watching the boats and people pass by. We ate at one of the small restaurants near the Embarcadero where they even moved a table to their outside patio just for us, it felt like a private room just for us!

All my hesitations and worries about visiting here couldn’t have been further from the truth of this magical place! While you might think it would be touristy, we saw very little tourists when visiting. It was mainly locals we saw enjoying themselves and spending time with family and friends. If you have any doubts about visiting I would push those aside and do everything you can to make it out here. It truly is something so unique to Mexico City and an adventure you won’t soon forget.

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