Just as people flock to Japan and Washington D.C. during Cherry Blossom season, Mexico City’s Jacaranda trees are a huge draw for locals and tourists. And yet, to my surprise, tourists here haven’t completely taken over and ruined the views. Like is sometimes in the case for Cherry Blossoms. You can still find so many stunning locations in Mexico City painted with these brilliant blossoms that aren’t packed with tourists. To have a picnic under the trees you don’t have to feel like you’re fighting through the crowds. The Jacaranda trees of Mexico City are still one of the most underestimated Springtime sights around the world. And something you need to see on your next trip to Mexico City. While the Jacaranda trees in Mexico City are spread out all over I’ve listed below my favourite spots to visit to see these spectacular saplings.

Table Of Contents

1. The History of the Jacaranda Trees
2. When To See Them
3. Best Jacaranda Trees in Mexico City
   • Bosque de Chapultepec / Chapultepec Castle
   • Paseo de la Reforma
   • Sofitel Hotel Cityzen Bar
   • Plaza de la República
   • Alameda Central
   • Cafe don Porfirio
   • Alameda de Santa María
   • Avenida Cicerón
   • Avenida Horacio
   • Lope de Vega
   • Soumaya Museum
   • Fuente de Cibeles
   • Casa Jacaranda
   • Parque México
   • Avenida Veracruz
   • UNAM
   • Avenida Francisco Sosa
   • Panteón de Dolores

The History of the Jacaranda Trees

While you might think these iconic trees are native to Mexico, the trees were actually brought in from Brazil. The story of how the Jacaranda trees in Mexico City arrived here is a fascinating tale. In 1896, Japanese immigrant Tatsugoro Matsumoto was sent to Mexico City to work for President Porfirio Díaz. Matsumoto had come to Mexico City to forge a friendship between Japan and Mexico. He had previously worked in Peru for their government and there, he had made a name for himself. Díaz was looking for a landscape architect to jazz up the forests around his residence inside Chapultapec Castle.

Matsumoto and the Jacarandas

The most obvious choice for a tree that symbolized friendship between Japan and Mexico would have been the sakura or cherry blossom tree. But the high altitude and weather in Mexico City didn’t suit the sensitive blossom. So instead, Matsumoto came up with the idea of importing the Jacaranda tree from Brazil. It had the same effect as the cherry blossom, with a springtime bloom that washed the city in bright colours. Seemingly changing the landscape of the city during those precious few springtime months. President Porfirio Díaz was so impressed by the trees he asked they be planted all over the city!

Matsumoto began working on transforming the city in 1920. He started on the main avenues that spread out from Chapultapec Castle. You can still see the oldest, original Jacaranda trees Matsumoto planted along the Paseo de la Reforma. During his time working on the Jacaranda trees in Mexico City, Matsumoto fell in love with the city. He found the colonial architecture where he lived in the Roma neighbourhood absolutely entrancing. When he went back to Japan after his contract was over it wasn’t to return home. It was to collect his wife and bring her to Mexico City where they would live out the rest of their lives. Matsumoto died in Mexico City, in 1955 at the age of 95.

But the trees live on in his memory, their yearly blossoming a welcome sign of the end of winter. In Japan, they call celebrations under the cherry blossom trees hanami (‘flower watching’ parties.) The same kind of celebrations occurs in Mexico City when the jacaranda blooms. A true symbol of the lasting connections between Japan, Mexico City and, of course, the great landscape architect Matsumoto.

When To See Them

Jacaranda trees are in full bloom from mid-March to April. And they’re at their best in the latter part of that period. During this time, the trees burst into life, and their purple flowers provide a lovely contrast against the crowded, urban cityscape. My favourite time of year is when the blooms start to fall and caress the ground. There is something so magical about sitting in a park and watching the blossoms fall like drops of rain. Despite all the street sweepers, there is almost always a carpet of blossoms everywhere you go underneath the trees. Some people call this the “Mexican winter.” It’s a time where the city sheds its old skin, getting ready for new growth.

Many of the city’s most popular areas where you’ll find the Jacaranda trees get very busy. Especially in the afternoon. Plan to arrive early in the morning to get the best chance at having a peaceful walk through the trees.

It is no secret that spring is a popular time of the year to visit Mexico City. Be sure to book hotels in advance! This will ensure you don’t miss out on staying somewhere you had your heart set on. Check out our blog post all about the best neighbourhoods to stay in Mexico City! The Easter holidays are one of the busiest times of the year. Easter is a holy holiday for the Mexican people. Plan accordingly or try to avoid Easter weekend to miss the large crowds.

Best Jacaranda Trees in Mexico City

Bosque de Chapultepec / Chapultepec Castle

The best place to start your tour of the Jacaranda Trees in Mexico City is where the first tree was planted; Chapultepec Castle. Here you can see the original jacaranda trees planted for President Díaz Ordaz. As you walk up the winding road towards the castle, Jacaranda trees pop up as you begin to near the entrance. Standing on the balcony of the castle you can look out over the park to see all the blooming trees below.

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If you don’t want to pay to visit the Castle itself, located at the top of the hill, you can wander the immense Bosque de Chapultepec or Chapultapec Forest that surrounds the castle. The forest is spread out over 1,600 acres, and you can spot different formations of beautiful trees throughout. One of my favourite things to do is take a boat out on Chapultepec Lake, where you can see the purple Jacaranda trees wrapping around the lake like a colourful hug.

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The largest confluence of the trees can be found in the western part of the park called the Lago de Chapultepec 2a Seccion. This part of the forest is enormous and very spread out. Luckily you can hop on a rental bike or scooter to make your way around quickly and efficiently. I would highly recommend this because it’s so much fun and allows you to explore the entirety of this enormous green space.

Paseo de la Reforma

The most famous place to see the Jacaranda trees in full bloom is along Paseo de la Reforma. This is truly one of the most beautiful boulevards in the world during the springtime. The Jacaranda trees line either side of the broad avenue, creating a cascade of purple all down the road.

Take advantage of their vehicle-free Sundays when all cars are barred from the roads and pedestrians and cyclists take over the streets! You can peacefully walk along the avenues, rent a bike and take in the sights. All the while enjoying all the fantastic street vendors and artisans that pop up along the street.

Sofitel Hotel Cityzen Bar

The luxurious Cityzen Bar, found on the top of the Sofitel Hotel, is a fantastic spot to sit and enjoy a view of the city from above. During the springtime, when the purple jacaranda trees colour the streets, there is no better to enjoy a cocktail complete with a view! Cityzen Bar looks out over the iconic Angel of Independence statue always encircled by blooming jacaranda trees. Although the restaurant bar is relatively expensive, (cocktails costing about $13-$15) the view is priceless!

The restaurant is open from Monday to Friday from 1:00 pm to 1:00 am and also on Saturdays and Sundays from 10:00 am to 12:00 am. Reservations are available only for breakfasts, on Saturdays and Sundays. I would highly recommend getting a brunch reservation to see these trees in the daylight!

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Plaza de la República

Just west of the Paseo de la Reforma is the grandiose Plaza de la República. The beautiful arched Monument to the Revolution towers over the plaza. The eyes of the statues surrounding the dome look over at the blooming jacarandas. The monument also functions as a mausoleum for the heroes of the Mexican Revolution of 1910. Several Jacaranda trees were planted in the surrounding garden quadrants. Each one springing to life with vibrant petals come the middle of March.

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Alameda Central

Alameda Central is one of the most famous parks in Mexico City and probably the most popular Jacaranda viewing spot. It has been a gathering place for locals for hundreds of years. The park was built in 1592 under the order of Viceroy Luis de Velasco II. It is now considered the oldest public park in the Americas. But long before it was a public city park, the area was an essential site for the Aztec community. It was here where they held their enormous marketplace long before Spanish colonization. Visiting this place is truly like stepping on the cobblestones of Aztec Mexico City.

Alameda is from the Spanish word “álamo,” which means “grove of poplars.” Sadly, the poplar trees that were once spread out through the park do not remain today. Today, the trees have been replaced by ash, chestnut and willow trees. But in addition to those trees, the park is also home to dozens of Jacaranda trees. They pop their heads out over the top of the various pathways around the park. And most impressively, the tree surrounding the Palacio de Bellas Artes and Parisian metro sign make for fantastic photo ops.

Cafe don Porfirio

Across the street from Alameda Central is the Sears Centro Historico building. Take the elevator up the eighth floor to visit the stunning Cafe don Porfirio. The cafe has a prime location looking out over the city below. It is the best place to view the Palacio de Bellas Artes. During jacaranda season, you can really see how impressive the trees are from above. The drinks in the cafe are exceptionally well priced. But be sure to arrive early as there isn’t a lot of seating on the popular rooftop deck.

Alameda de Santa María

In the Cuauhtémoc borough, to the north of the historic centre, is the Colonia Santa María la Ribera. This area is one of twenty neighbourhoods in Mexico City designated as “Barrios Mágicos” or “magical neighbourhoods.” The central meeting point for locals and tourists is the Alameda de Santa María la Ribera. In the centre of this bustling park is the famous Morisco Kiosk. The Morisco Kiosk was built by José Ramón Ibarrola for the Mexico Pavilion at the 1884 World’s Fair. Located in New Orleans, after the fair was over, the Kiosk was brought back to Mexico City in 1903. It was placed here in the park to attract more residents to the neighbourhood. Surrounding the brightly coloured Pavillion are dozens of Jacaranda trees. The trees really pop against the Kiosk’s red paint and surrounding green parkland.

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Avenida Cicerón

Polanco is one of the most exclusive and luxurious neighbourhoods in Mexico City. Polanco is often called the “Beverly Hills of Mexico” as it’s known for its pristine streets lined with high-end brands. Avenida Cicerón is located in the north-western part of town. Walk along this peaceful, primarily residential avenue to observe the beautiful purple trees.

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Avenida Horacio

Avenida Horacio, particularly the areas around Americas Park, is another spot to find a confluence of Jacaranda trees. The quaint and calming forest that pops up in the middle of the busy street is one of the best places to sit and enjoy a sweet treat. All the while shaded under the floral canopy.

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Lope de Vega

Head towards the small side street of Lope de Vega, between Avenida Homero andAvenida Ejército Nacional Mexicano. Here the Jacaranda trees are so giant they touch each other as they grow over the streets. Creating one of the lushest congregations of the trees anywhere in the city. The road is named after the Spanish writer Lope de Vega. Vega was one of the most prolific authors in the history of Spanish literature.

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Soumaya Museum

The Soumaya Museum is one of the most iconic contemporary pieces of architecture in Mexico City. The building was designed by the Mexican architect Fernando Romero and is covered by 16,000 hexagonal aluminum tiles. Several large Jacaranda trees have been planted outside the building. Their colours reflecting onto the hundreds of mirrored tiles, creating one of the most spectacular views in the city.

Fuente de Cibeles

As you descend from Paseo de la Reforms into Roma Norte, you’ll pass by the Fuente de Cibeles. The Fuente de Cibeles or Fountain of Cybele is a replica of a famous fountain originally sculptured in Madrid, Spain. The fountain was created in 1980 to symbolize and honour the brotherhood between the Spanish and Mexican communities. Even today, it is one of the most beloved sights in the city. The roundabout is surrounded by Jacaranda trees. You’ll notice more of the vibrant blossoms running down each side street that veers off from the central circle. Follow your instincts to discover even more stunning scenes.

Casa Jacaranda

Named after the colossal Jacaranda trees planted outside his family home, Casa Jacaranda is one of the most beautiful slices of Colonial architecture in Mexico City. Chefs Beto and Jorge have lived here for the past few decades. They have both transformed and preserved the history of the house and the incredible Jacaranda trees that decorate their street. If you’re interested in learning more about Mexican food, you need to book yourself a cooking class at Casa Jacaranda. But their classes are more than just a cooking lesson. It’s an entire day-long experience filled with information on Mexican food history, market tours and intimate stories from Beto himself. By the end of the day, dining under the Jacaranda trees, you’ll feel like you have made new friends.

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Parque México

My favourite spot in the entire city is Parque México. There is something so enchanting about this park, nestled away inside the heart of La Condesa. Surrounding the park is the quintessential Avenue Mexico. This large ring road features some of the most prolific Art Deco architecture found anywhere in the city.

The park itself feels like a secret garden, with beautiful sculptures, monuments and fascinating landscaping around every corner. During the spring, the outer edges of the park, lined in Jacaranda trees, explode into a ring of colourful blossoms. As the season progresses, the petals fall down onto the street and cover the roads like a purple blanket.

It is most definitely one of the most densely packed areas to find Jacaranda trees anywhere in the city. Plus, the peaceful atmosphere of the park makes it the ideal place for a picnic. There are dozens of fantastic takeaway shops around the park, my favourite being El Moro Churreria. Or just grab a cup of fruit or hot elote (corn) from a street vendor. The perfect way to enjoy a tranquil afternoon under the trees.

Avenida Veracruz

Just up the street from the Parque México, standing on the edge of Parque España, is the Avenida Veracruz. Avenida Veracruz is perhaps the most famous side street for seeing the Jacaranda trees. The density of trees means the street almost vibrates with colour. Look on google satellite street view and you can actually see the trees from high above. I love walking along this avenue to spot the incredible art deco architecture. And there are dozens of old manors and mansions featuring some of the best examples of antique Talavera tiles. But when the Jacaranda bloom they are the star of the show. And all the beautiful houses fade in the background against the beauty of these out-of-this-world blossoms.

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UNAM

If you’re a fan of incredible architecture and unique gardens, it’s worth the trip to UNAM (National Autonomous University of Mexico). The university is surrounded by an impressive spread of green spaces and Mesoamerican-inspired building designs. The streets and pathways are lined with blossoming jacarandas in the springtime. But as they are spread out across the vast campus, it is a bit of a scavenger hunt to find them all.

To find a sure-fire spot, head over to the UNAM Botanical Gardens. Here, you’ll find a cluster of Jacaranda trees outside the entrance. The UNAM Botanical Gardens are an incredible way to learn more about the flora and fauna which make Mexico City so unique! So it’s worth a visit all on its own.

Avenida Francisco Sosa

In the south end of Coyoacan, make your way to the Avenida Francisco Sosa. Coyoacan has quickly become my favourite neighbourhood in Mexico City. Although it is found outside of the main city centre, the peaceful pace of life and gorgeous colourful architecture is why I keep coming back. And one of the most exciting streets to wander along is the Avenida Francisco Sosa. Cobblestones still make up the material underfoot as you walk along. The street seems left untouched by the modernity of the ages. Above your head, Jacaranda trees lean in towards you from either side of the street. Creating a canopy of shade above you.

Panteón de Dolores

Tucked away in the west corner of the city is the Panteón de Dolores. ‘Panteón’ is another word for the cemetery. But this one was first created for the illustrious dead of Mexico City. The entombed residents have all contributed to Mexico’s civic, national, and human values.

The gravestones and tombs found here are also some of the most beautifully designed memorials and monuments. I think that the Panteón de Dolores is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world. And it doesn’t get it’s fair due compared to places like Père Lachaise Cemetery or Highgate in London. But during the springtime, the Jacaranda trees interspersed between the graves make their debut. Their pale purple blossoms gently fall onto the stones below, bringing an added level of beauty and serenity to the sacred space.

Those are all my favourite spots in Mexico City that I visit during the Jacaranda season. There are hundreds of trees found all over the city, so you’re bound to stumble upon your own secret spot. These hidden gems are almost always the most amazing. But this is a good starting list to see the Jacaranda Trees in Mexico City! Let me know in the comments if you have Jacaranda trees in your city.

Happy Travels, Adventurers.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Seeing the Jacaranda Trees in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Flowers
3. Tortillas de Arina
4. Mexican Chili Peppers
5. Moles Miguel
6. Vanilla
7. Dried Fruits & Nuts
8. Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste
9. Fruits and Vegetable Sellers
10. Piñatas
11. Lecheria
12. Sugar Skulls
13. Corn Tortillas
14. Heladería Cubano
15. Meat and Seafood
16. La Morenita de Medellín
17. La Flor de Xochimilco
18. Meche y Rafael Carnitas
19. Outside Street Food
20. La Michoacana
21. Tips for Visiting the Farmer's Market

History

The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by it’s red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior. Lookout on one side for a huge, decorated multicolour mural. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years. When the market was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur.

The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.”

The entire marketplace is now home to over 500 different stalls. While you can have a blast just wandering around on your own, I’ve tried to highlight the key things you should see, buy and which are the best shops to visit!

Flowers

While this market can’t compete with the enormity of the Mercado Jamaica (the largest flower market in the city), the pre-made bouquets you’ll find here, beckoning you in from the street, are lovingly curated. After shopping for their food, we saw various locals come out and buy a bouquet from their favourite seller on their way home. A little something to brighten up their home for the week! Our favourite flower to see was the poinsettias for sale. Poinsettias, known as Flor de Nochebuena, are native to Mexico. In North America, the flowers are usually only seen around Christmas but here they actually grow as small trees or bushes. During the winter months, poinsettias can be spotted all over the streets and sidewalks of Mexico City.

Tortillas de Arina

One of the first stalls to visit is ‘Tortillas de Arina.‘ This tortilleria makes flour tortillas for shops all across the city. Hundreds of tortillas speed off the conveyor belt, and the smell of freshly baked bread invites you to walk up and see what’s happening behind the counter. The word tortilla comes from the Spanish word for cake “torta” and “illa” means little. So it translates, the word for tortilla translates into “little cake.” The flour tortilla is much more popular with people from Northern Mexico. The close proximity to the border markets allowed Northern Mexicans to get inferior grade wheat flour, which they could make cheaply into flour tortillas. People who have moved from the northern provinces to Mexico City come here often to get their fix of wheat tortillas. Wheat tortillas are only usually only paired with Northern Mexican dishes.

Mexican Chili Peppers

This is one of the best markets to find fresh, Mexican Chili Peppers! There are five main chillies to see (perhaps even buy to take home with you); the Ancho, the Mulato, the Pasilla, the Morita and the Guajillo. The ancho chilli is the dried version of a poblano pepper. Ancho peppers are used in mole and many other recipes. Ancho is so popular because it has a subtle flavour with a hint of sweetness. Next up is the mulato chilli, also in mole. The mulato chihlli is also derived from the poblano pepper but picked when it first ripens, making it slightly spicier.

Pasilla chili

The final ingredient in the trifecta of mole chillies is the pasilla chilli. The pasilla are dried from chilaca peppers and are the darkest in colour. They are also much thinner and much spicier! Morita chipotles are chillies made by smoking ripe jalapeno peppers. These chipotles are not as strong in terms of a smokey flavour as some other, so really with this version, you get the best of both worlds.

The final chilles to find in the market is the guajillo chilli. Guajillo’s are long, flat, but small and are one of the spiciest varieties. Small packs a punch that’s for sure! It was so fascinating getting to touch and smell these chillies. The ones we get at home are so hard and almost crispy, but these dried peppers were soft and almost leathery. So if you’re a cook and want to make any Mexican recipe, these chillies are imperative to buy from these markets. Just be sure you know the customs regulations regarding these vegetables and always declare them to be sure.

Moles Miguel

Find your way to Moles Miguel, one of the most famous mole sellers in the market. This family-owned store sells pre-made mole pastes in different varieties. I never knew there were so many! If you ask nicely, they might even let you try a few before buying. Some of the most popular varieties are black mole, named for its super dark colour. This one is made with lots of cocoa beans (making it quite bitter). This one also has a more cinnamony taste than the rest. Then there is the red mole, made with dried red chiles like pasilla, guajillo and ancho. Finally, you’ve got the mole poblano. This version, in my opinion, is the best of them all. It’s sweet (but not too sweet) and just the right amount of smoke flavour.

Vanilla

Mexico is the birthplace of vanilla, and there is really no better place to buy it. Although the authentic extract is delicious, its even better to buy the bean pods fresh from sellers like you’ll find in these marketplaces. Fresh seeds are so much more fragrant than the extract since they aren’t diluted in alcohol.

Dried Fruits & Nuts

Dried fruits, nuts and seeds can be found all over the market, stashed away inside large tubs and baskets. Walnuts, called Castile nuts in Mexico, are of enormous importance during the late summer. Walnuts are a key ingredient to make one of Mexico’s most famous dishes, “chiles en nogada.” This dish is made with spicy green poblano peppers, stuffed with chopped meat and raisins. The dish is then topped with a thick sauce made from only cheese and ground walnuts. A sprinkling of pomegranate seeds creates the colours of the Mexican flag all in one dish!

The recipe was invited in honour of the leader of the Mexican uprising against the Spanish in the 19th century. Since the recipes invention, the dish eaten to celebrate Mexico’s Independence. Ironically, nuts were brought to Mexico by the Spaniards themselves. Almonds and peanuts are also an essential ingredient in mole as they add that deep, nutty flavour to the dish. Dried fruits from Mexico are beyond fresh, soft and flavourful. They are the perfect snack to stash away in your bag for an afternoon snack.

Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste

Many of the shops in the market sell pre-made mixes and pastes. From these you can create a myriad of Mexican recipes. Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste sells them all in one place. One of the most famous recipes in Mexican cuisine is Cochinita Pibil. The key ingredient to this recipe is Achiote paste. Achiote seeds are a traditional Aztec ingredient. The achiote paste is made from steeping the seeds in oil or lard. It’s thought to be like the saffron of Mexico. It’s so popular due to its sweet, earthy and peppery flavour. Buy it here and bring home to impress your friends.

Fruits and Vegetable Sellers

There are so many stands in this marketplace that have been run by the same family for generations. The food found here is an amalgamation of both locals and imported foods. Together they create the fabric of Mexico’s culinary culture.

A popular Mexican fruit that you may never have heard of is the mamey fruit. The mamey fruit has a rough rind, but a soft, coral coloured flesh underneath. When perfectly ripe, it tastes like a cross between a sweet potato and an orange. You’ll find these on menus all over Mexico, often as part of a beverage or served atop puddings.

Another odd ingredient you’ll find here is the nopal or cactus. “A cactus, you say?” Certain parts of the cactus are indeed edible and, when appropriately cooked, are shockingly delicious! To prepare the nopal, you slice off the exterior, scrap the spine, cut into slices, and boil with some simple spices. It’s incredibly cheap but very hearty food.

One of the last ingredients you might be on the lookout for is the tomatillo. You might know the tomatillo by its North American name, “green tomato”. But the Tomatillos found here in Mexico City as far different. They are much smaller and bursting with flavour. Tomatillos are used in all sorts of dishes. You can find them in salsas, salads and even soups! Tomatillos in the market are on display with their delicate pale husk on, which is removed before eating.

Piñatas

One thing which this market had plenty of is pinata makers. You can homemade pinatas all over the market. Some of which are still in the process of being made from scratch. When pinatas were first introduced to Mexico from Spain, they were symbolic of the Catholic belief in the deadly sins. The first pinatas weren’t shaped like Hello Kitty or Superman; they were seven-pointed stars, with each point representing a mortal sin. The person being blindfolded represented humanity’s blind faith in God needed to resist these temptations. The participant was spun around 33 times, once for every year of Christ’s life. Then the stick is used to beat the sins out of the faithful, and the candy and fruit represented the rewards for keeping the faith. You can still find these original designs in the marketplace today!

One of the oldest fruits to be included in the pinata was the tejocote. These are still sold today in the market, but have been replaced for sweet candy inside the pinatas. These Aztec fruits resemble a crabapple and are both similar in taste and shape but have the most beautiful golden colour.

Lecheria

Along the back wall, you can find a huge lecheria, which is Spanish for ‘dairy’ which sells a variety of cheese produced from local farms. My favourite is Oaxaca cheese. Oaxaca cheese is made from soft, stretched-curd cheese, made with cows’ milk. It pulls apart, almost like a cheese string (for those 90s kids reading), and if often served atop meals as it melts quickly and adds that perfect salty, umami flavour. The most interesting of the cheeses was the chihuahua, which is made from a Mennonite community in Mexico. Chihuahua cheese is relatively simple, with a buttery, yet sharp taste but very popular since its gentle flavour allows it to be paired well with most dishes.

See if you can also find or try some membrillo, which is a jelly made with quince juice and honey to be served alongside cheese. Together with the salty cheese, this sweet jam is perfection.

Sugar Skulls

Dia de Los Muertos (or Day of the Dead) was an Aztec ritual that celebrated the lives of those who were deceased. Despite the Spaniards attempt to rid the country of this sacred holiday, the ceremony remained. Eventually, it was blended together with the Catholic celebration of All Saints Day on November 1st. Traditional sugar skulls are a highly respected part of the day of the Dead rituals. Sugar was brought to Mexico in the 17th century by Italian missionaries. Sugar cane was so easy to grow in Mexico, so there became an abundance of it in the country.

History of Sugar Skulls

As Mexico was converting to Catholicism, it found that their churches didn’t match up to the opulence of the ones in Europe. Mexico didn’t have enough money to import decorations or cover their churches in gold. But what they did have was sugar, which they could produce cheaply and in vast quantities. So, using clay moulds, they used sugar to create angels, crosses and more to decorate the interior of their churches. Eventually, these kinds of decorations made their way into the celebrations of Day of the Dead. Sugar skulls were created to represent the soul of the departed, and their name was written upon the forehead of the sugar skull. They were then laid on the grave or ofrenda to honour the spirit of the beloved one who had past. You can find still these sugar skulls in the marketplaces around Day of the Dead.

Corn Tortillas

Freshly made Corn Tortillas can be found inside the market. Corn Tortillas were first invented around 10,000 BC when corn was domesticated in Mexico. Corn was linked to life in Mexico. It was their primary source of carbs (which equals energy). During the Aztec empire, one of the most popular dishes was tortillas, with chilli sauce, beans and squash. Today local workers still come to tortillerias to get fresh tortillas, salsa, rice and beans, which they will bring to the worksite to enjoy for their lunch. Just like it was thousands of years ago. Some things never change…

Heladería Cubano

Towards the back of the market, stop at Heladería Cubano. The kind gentleman behind the counter serves up Cuban ice cream and milkshakes. The milkshakes are made with fresh creme, sugar, ice (made from filtered water) and your choice of fresh fruit. He also can add malt to the milkshakes, which give you that retro flavour. Such an exciting thing to find in the middle of a Mexican marketplace but not at all unwelcome. The Cuban ice cream maker is famous in the market for his natural flavours and thick creamy ice cream!

Meat and Seafood

Take a step into the fresh meat and seafood area. Definitely the most fragrant area of the market but still very exciting. People are always yelling joyfully at each other from across the room and large meat cleavers can be heard smashing into hunks of beef and pork all across the room. This is usually where there is the most action, with locals, home cooks and restaurant chefs, coming here to buy their meats for the day.

La Morenita de Medellín

One of the most popular eateries in the market is ‘Marisquería,’ also known as “La Morenita de Medellín.” This is one of the only places in landlocked Mexico City where you can reliably find incredible seafood! Hidden away inside this marketplace, you can try red snapper from Veracruz, fish covered in garlic and chilis, pulpo al ajillo (cooked octopus), the devil’s oysters (oysters cooked in butter) and Mexican paella (which came over with Spanish). Reliably a great option if you’re craving seafood!

La Flor de Xochimilco

La Flor de Xochimilco is one of the most popular eateries inside the market. They specialize in taco de barbacoa. Barbacoa actually originates from the Caribbean. Taco de barbacoa refers to slow-cooked meats, over an open fire. The meat is cooked till its super tender. Then tacos are served with diced onions, cilantro and lime juice to help cut the fatty taste of the meat. If you’ve never had a barbacoa taco, this is a must!

Meche y Rafael Carnitas

At the back corner, hidden away, if THE place for carnitas, Meche y Rafael! Unfortunately, it’s only open on Saturdays. Pork was introduced to Mexico by the Spanish in the 16th century. Carnitas is a Spanish word that means “little meats.” Carnitas are made using lean pork mean, which is sliced and marinated in seasoning for hours. The fat cut from the meat is used for frying the carnitas before they are eaten. This carnitas stand serves up with bountiful portions alongside slices of the city’s best chicharrón. Douse the tacos with plenty of salsa and pickled radishes to cut the grease; while it might not be the healthiest food, it might be the most delicious.

Outside Street Food

Around the perimeter of the marketplace, are always a few reliable street food stands, run by some of the nicest local women. If you’re looking for something delicious to try, order up the tlacoyo. Tlacoyo is made from blue corn dough and filled with beans. It’s then fried on the grill. Once cooked, they are garnished with Oaxaca or cotija cheese, nopales, salsa and chicharrón. So filling, delicious and impossibly cheap! If you’re there earlier in the morning, be sure to try their breakfast version, which was made with fried potatoes with chorizo. It’s fantastic!

La Michoacana

If you are looking to sample an agua fresca, hit up the La Michoacana. La Michoacana is actually a chain of ice cream parlours in Mexico City. And although their ice cream is never quite up to snuff, their agua frescas are reliably some of the best! Just ask anyone behind the counter if they’re made with filtered water (agua pura) to be sure it’s safe to drink. Agua frescas are more than just juice, they are these incredible beverages flavoured with uniquely Mexican flavours like tamarind, hibiscus, and horchata!

Tips for Visiting the Farmer’s Market

• Always bring cash and small change. Most marketplaces don’t take credit cards, and if you plan on haggling at all, don’t even think about using a credit card. Cash is king in the market. But big bills won’t work either. Most of these sellers won’t have a lot of change, and early in the day, you might find that don’t have change at all. I always keep a stash of coins with me at all times to ensure I have the exact amount when shopping in markets like these. Having small coins is also important for using public washrooms in places like this, as most charge 5 pesos for the bathroom.
  
• Beware of Pickpockets. Although this marketplace is much less of a target than some of the most touristy markets in other parts of town, you should always be aware of your surroundings. Keep your money in safe places, not easily accessible by someone else. For me, I keep some smaller change in my pockets and any bigger bills deep in my bag, where it would take some time to access. But honestly, just keeping your awareness of what and who is around you is the most important part of keeping safe.

• Ask before touching any food. Most of the seller won’t mind if you touch the food, in fact to buy some fruits and vegetables you need to give it a squeeze to see if it’s ripe! But some tourists touch EVERYTHING and it really bothers the sellers. I’ve seen some tourists come in and mess up their entire display without so much as moving one thing back into place. Just ask nicely if you can look or touch something and respect what the seller responds with. But honestly, just asking will win you over with them!

• Think before taking a picture. Some of the vendors inside the more touristy markets take umbrage with tourists taking photos of their stalls. The main reason for this is they don’t always want to be on camera but also, they don’t see themselves as a tourist attraction. They would prefer you to buy something instead of just taking pictures and yet walking away without contributing to any of the vendors who need money to keep their businesses running. I always look for a “no photos” sign first before taking a picture since that’s pretty clear cut. Often, I’ll even ask the vendors if it’s ok. If you’re purchased something you’re almost always ok to take a picture since the seller knows you’re not just using them as a prop, but actually care about the product.

• Travel Light. These types of markets are fairly crowded, with narrow aisles and products overflowing over the edges of the counters. This means carrying a huge backpack with you might not be the best idea. I would stick to a small bag for your shopping and a crossbody bag for your valuables.
  
• Be friendly. Locals are proud of their produce. Some of these farmers sell the very things they harvested that morning to shoppers. Giving them a smile, a hello, goodbye or good afternoon goes a long way in acclimatizing yourself into this neighbourhood market.

• If you don’t recognize something, don’t be afraid! Trying new things is what travelling is all about! The food at this market is incredibly fresh. These stands only stay open until 4 or 5 pm so the turn over is daily and nothing just gets left behind. The only thing I really avoid is water washed veggies, like salads, but anything cooked is fair game!

Learn some key Spanish phrases

When shopping in a local market like this you might not find a lot of people who speak English. To make a good impression and fit in with the locals, try to learn a few phrases. The most important phrases are the ones to do with prices so you’ll understand how much everything costs. I would recommend avoiding any haggling if you don’t speak Spanish competently since you’ll get over your head pretty fast.

Here are some of my key phrases for shopping:
good morning // Buenos días
good afternoon // buenas tardes
goodbye // adiós
how much? // Cuánto cuesta?
one, two, three // uno, dos, tres
What is this? // ¿Que es esto?
Thank you // Gracias
no, thank you // no, gracias
Can I touch? // ¿Puedo tocar?
Can I take a photo? // ¿Puedo tomar una foto?  

We first came to the market on a guided tour with Casa Jacaranda. I cannot recommend their cooking experience more so if you are interested in learning more about Mexican cuisine and Markets in Mexico check them out!

The post Guide To Exploring the Vibrant Medellin Market in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

But I read review after review and had to check it out for myself. And let me say, perhaps as a bit of a spoiler, I now understand why this is such a perfect experience. Casa Jacaranda offers more than just a cooking class. It’s a whole day of activities, discoveries, learning opportunities and a chance to make new friends.

Table Of Contents

1. About Casa Jacaranda
2. The Casa Jacaranda Cooking Class Experience
3. Mercado Medellín
4. Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor
5. Roma Norte
6. Casa Jacaranda
7. The Menu
8. Making the Mole
9. Tamales
10. Cocktails
11. Rooftop Dinner
12. Prices:
13. Group Rates:

About Casa Jacaranda

The classes are offered Tuesday through Saturday. Beto Estúa and Jorge Fitz are the co-owners of Casa Jacaranda, and either one or both of them will join you on your culinary journey, depending on class size and availability.

Most classes are held in English, although there are some classes available in Spanish. The small class size (typically 6-8 people) means that you feel close with everyone there but have enough people to quickly cook these huge menus!

The day begins at 10 am and ends around 4:30 pm, so you really do get an entire day’s worth of entertainment out of the whole experience. The price per adult is $180 USD and children are $120 USD. While this might seem expensive, as mentioned, you get an entire day’s worth of entertainment and indulgence. Trust me on this, it’s worth every peso.

The Casa Jacaranda Cooking Class Experience

Mercado Medellín

The day began at the Mercado Medellín, in Roma Sur. The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by it’s red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior with stunning multicolour murals painted above. We stood at the meeting spot, just under the market’s sign, and met the other travelling cooks, two fellow Canadians and a mother-son duo from America. They were immediately so friendly and just as excited as we were! Beto arrived with his traditional shopping bags and his assistant in tow. He happily introduced himself to the group, and we collectively decided on the dishes we were set to prepare for the day.

About the Market

Before heading into the market. Beto took a moment outside to tell us all about the history of the market. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years, although the more modern appearance is from renovations after the earthquake. When the marketplace was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur. The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. They sold both to locals who were interested in trying something new and other immigrants who wanted a taste of home.

Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.” The entire space is now home to over 500 different stalls. If you were simply a regular tourist, this could be overwhelming, but Beto made sure to take us to all his favourite stalls and show us what you needed to see! Every one of them knew him by name and would wear a huge smile on their faces as we approached.

Mexican Chili Peppers

Our guide took us through the market to various sellers where we picked up ingredients for our meal. One of the most important ingredients in Mexican cuisine are chili peppers. Many of these peppers were going to be present in a few of our recipes, so it was essential to learn all about them! Some peppers have different names depending on if they are dried or fresh. In this market alone, we stopped and smelled over 15 different kinds of peppers. We learned where they were grown and how each of them could be used in various recipes. Some of the peppers were heavily smoked in addition to being dry, and it was amazing to smell the differences between just a dried pepper and a smoked and dried pepper.

Fruits and Vegetable Sellers

Next up, we visited the local fruits and veggie sellers, which is Beto’s favourite in the marketplace. This one stand has been run by the same family for five generations. He explained to us all about the different varieties of vegetables you can find in a traditional Mexican garden. In one garden beds, pretty much anywhere in Mexico, you can grow everything you need to sustain yourself. Beto told us all about which fruits and veggies were originally from Mexico and which were imported early in its colonization. Today, all of these are used together to form the fabric of Mexico’s culinary culture.

One of the oldest fruits to be included in the pinata was the Tejocote. These are still sold today in the market, but rarely are they always included in the pinatas. These Aztec fruits resemble a crabapple and are both similar in taste and shape but have the most wonderful golden colour.

Street Food

After looking at all this food, it was finally time to try some for ourselves. Just before the lunch rush, we headed to the back of the market, where a few ladies were preparing tlacoyo. You’ve probably seen tlacoyo all over the city but, if you were like me, had no idea what was in them. They’re made from blue corn dough and filled with beans and then fried on the grill. Once cooked, they are garnished with Oaxaca or cotija cheese, nopales, salsa and chicharrón.

We also tried out their breakfast version, which was made with fried potatoes cooked with chorizo. It was fantastic!

Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor

This brought us to the end of the marketplace tour, so we headed on our way over to Casa Jacaranda. On our way, we past Beto’s favourite tortilla makers, Molino Y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor. Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor hand makes corn tortilla, made from fresh masa every day. The kind old man behind the counter would grab a hot one fresh off the press and hand it to us to taste. You would first sprinkle some salt on top, then some salsa (spicy of course) and roll it up before eating it to ensure the salsa and salt was in every bite.

Corn tortillas were first invented around 10,000 BC when corn was domesticated in Mexico. Corn was life in Mexico, as it was their primary source of carbs (which equal energy). During the Aztec empire, one of the most popular dishes was tortillas, with chilli sauce, beans and squash. Today local workers still come to tortillerias to get fresh tortillas, salsa, rice and beans, which they will bring to the worksite to enjoy for their lunch. Just like it was thousands of years ago. Some things never change…

Roma Norte

The streets around Beto’s house were rich with incredible architecture. This neighbourhood was originally designed for the upper class in the early twentieth century, so they found the finest designers and architects to make masterfully houses. Art deco and neo-classical designs reign supreme here as do the enormous Jacaranda trees which line the streets, creating a canopy over the entire block.

Casa Jacaranda

Casa Jacaranda is named as such due to the rich collection of old Jacaranda trees on the street and the large one which hangs over Beto’s house. Jacaranda trees arrived in Mexico City from Brazil. Their large canopy and bright lavender blooms made them a hot commodity for any burgeoning neighbourhood!

When we first walked through the doors at Casa Jacaranda, we were gobsmacked. I had expected a simple kitchen or workspace, but what we found was a gorgeously restored and renovated 1930’s house. It was decorated floor to ceiling in beautiful works of art, historical ephemera and knickknacks, which represent the cultures and culinary traditions of Mexico. There were also so many personal mementos and pictures around the house, it truly made us feel at home. I found it hard to get my head in the game to cook since all I wanted to do was pour through the bookshelves and study the paintings on the wall.

The Menu

There are a variety of options for the menu which you’ll make with the group. Although some of us had reviewed the website and knew the options, we needed to make a choice as a group as to what we wanted to cook. We opted for the mole since we felt it had the richest in history, and we were all interested in that aspect of Mexican cooking. No matter what main meal you pick, you’ll always end up making a full menu with two appetizers, one entree and a dessert.

Making the Mole

The first recipe we dove into was the mole. Beto started off by laying out the method and all the steps needed for its preparation on the blackboard behind us. I’m not going to share that with you here since it was his own adapted recipe and something he has perfected over the years. But if you yourself book a class with him he shares with the class all those recipes and more and you come away with almost a full recipe book of printed meals to make at home!

Mole is made with 28 different ingredients, although Beto kindly makes his with 26 since he removes the bread (gluten) and the peanuts, so this recipe can more easily accommodate a variety of allergies. Beto’s mole is adapted from a version of the recipe from Puebla, a region in the east which is known for its culinary history and traditions. Beto has been making this recipe for years with his family, so you really feel like you’re making something that was designed to be made with love.

Ingredients

Before we even arrived, all the ingredients were laid out for us. Beto’s handy assistant had torn through the market to buy all the supplies we needed while we were leisurely wandered through the market. This allowed us to learn from Beto about all the component which now sat on the table before us.

One of our favourite parts of the experience was just listening to Beto chat away about the history of some of these ingredients and recipes and how they came to be. He really was a wealth of information and entertainment all to himself.

Red and Green Salsa

Then it was time for the salsas. We made two salsas; fresh green salsa with a more spicy kick and a rich, smokey red salsa. The green salsa was my absolute favourite. I could have eaten it all day with anything! Despite only having five ingredients, the way it was prepared made it taste like the most complex and amazing thing you ever put in your mouth!

To make the red salsa, we used a molcajete, a stone tool like the American mortar and pestle. We learned all about how to care for a molcajete and saw three different ones that Beto owned; one was his own, one was his mother’s, and the last, his grandmother’s. Each one looked the same and yet different, the older they got, the smoother their surface. It was like working with a piece of his family’s history.

Tamales

Next up were the tamales! Every morning on the streets, you’ll see hundreds of men and women either on bikes or set up on street corners selling tamales. Tamales are super popular at breakfast time since they are hearty, cheap and SAFE to eat (since they are made by continually steaming the food, keeping it sanitary). The recipe for tamales is thought to date all the way back to Mesoamerica in around 5000 BC. A ‘tamal’ is made from corn masa, which is filled with either meat, cheese, or vegetables.

Corn Tortillas

Finally, it was time for us to learn how to make tortillas from scratch! Despite meeting our amazing tortilla maker, there is just nothing like fresh tortillas hot off the grill. We had such a good time learning when to flip the tortillas and how to make them puff up in the perfect way! It was a busy, laugh-inducing experience that had us all grinning ear to ear.

Cocktails

Now that all our recipes were finished, it was time for a drink! Beto made us all a Paloma, served with traditional Mexican tequila and finished with a slice of grapefruit and a pink peppercorn salted rim!

After all this busy cooking, it was nice to sit down and enjoy each other’s company. We had chatted a bit with our fellow cooks, but while we started to dig into the beef tacos, we finally had the chance to talk more in-depth and learn all about them. It was one of the guest’s birthdays the day we were there, and we had many “happy birthday” cheers and made the entire night a big celebration! It felt like having dinner with friends by the end of the night.

Rooftop Dinner

After we were finished cooking, we were escorted upstairs to the rooftop garden and dining table. The beautiful table was laid out under the jacaranda tree. Despite the tree not being in bloom when we visited, there were plenty of other plants and flowers on the rooftop to make us feel like we were dining in a tropical forest.

The meal was served with some incredible Mexican wine and fresh hibiscus juice, which paired perfectly with everything on the table! We dove right into the food, so quickly in fact that I completely forgot to take a picture of my beautiful plate. But here is a shot of our smiling faces which say it all.

The mole was served with shredded chicken. We eat it along with some incredible garlic rice we made earlier. Atop the mole you absolutely must dress it with a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds and thinly sliced onions. Both these two items seem to make such a massive difference in the flavour. I have had mole a few times and have to say it’s not always my favourite. Often it’s just too sweet. But this mole was perfect, not too sweet, not too bitter, and so flavourful!

Tequila & Mezcal

The end of the meal was finished off with a tequila and mezcal flight. We tried some truly unique varieties, some of which you couldn’t even find in stores! This is the perfect ‘sobremesa.’ A sobremesa is a Spanish tradition of relaxing at the table after a heavy meal. We sipped our liqueurs and asked everyone about their time in the city. We shared our favourite food spots and sights in the city, and I made more than a few notes of restaurants to try out next time we’re in town!

I hope this gives you some insight into what a day with Beto and the Casa Jacaranda is like. So if you’re like me and were on the fence about whether or not you should book this experience, it helps you make your decision. And honestly, DO NOT HESITATE to book it ASAP. This is more than a cooking class. It is a day out with friends. A historical lecture. A DELICIOUS home-cooked meal. An insightful study of Mexican food. And best of all, a learning experience you can bring home with you to share with your family and friends.

The post Casa Jacaranda, the Best Cooking Class in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.