Despite our rather stressful introduction to the park, in getting lost we uncovered so many different parts of the park I had never seen mentioned in other guides! I made it a point to return the next morning! I arrived early in the day, set out to explore every inch of Chapultepec Park. What I discovered was truly one of the most spectacular public parks I had ever seen. Not only is Chapultepec Park unsurpassed in terms of beauty, but it also has a long history that dates back to the 10th century. The park is heralded for its bio-diversity, lush gardens, and home to some of Mexico City’s most iconic landmarks. It is no surprise to learn it won the gold award from the World Urban Parks Association as one of the most beautiful parks in the world!

But it’s not just a tourist destination either; it’s also full of life. Locals come here to cool themselves under the forest canopy and snack on incredible street food. If you’re looking to escape city life and immerse yourself in nature, Chapultepec Park is the place to be!

Guide to Chapultepec Park

1. What to Know Before you Arrive
2. Hours & Access
3. The History of Chapultepec Park
4. Map of Walking Tour
5. Puerta de Leones
6. Monument to the Ninos Heroes
7. Petrogrifo de Moctezuma
8. Ahuehuete "El Sargento"
9. Memorial Squadron 201
10. Cincalco Cavern
11. Audiorama
12. Chapultepec Castle Hill
13. Museo del Caracol
14. Chapultepec Castle
15. Street Food
16. El Lago de Chapultepec
    • The Casa del Lago
17. Librería Porrúa
18. Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec
19. Museo Nacional de Antropología
    • Museo de Arte Moderno
20. Zoológico de Chapultepec
21. La Casa de la Bici Bosque de Chapultepec
22. Fuente del Quijote
23. Poets' Causeway
24. Carrusel De Chapultepec
25. Fuente de las Ranas
26. Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotlht

What to Know Before you Arrive

Bosque Chapultapec or Chapultapec Park is enormous. It is twice the size of Central Park, which many people think of as one of the largest parks in the world! So having a guide to follow or knowing what you want to see when you’re there is key. Bosque Chapultapec or Chapultapec Park is actually divided into three sections or “Seccións.” This guide will explore the First section, which is both the oldest portion of the park and contains the most important landmarks.

Key Tips

• As mentioned above, the park is HUGE. Give yourself the entire day if you’re planning on exploring all of the first section.
• Arrive early in the morning, not only to give yourself lots of time to visit but also to avoid the crowds which peak in the afternoon.
• Most of the signage in the park is all in Spanish. Use this guide to help you get the context to understand what you’re seeing. Download the Google Translate app and the Spanish language pack to be able to translte signage with your camera.
• There are no restaurants located inside the park. The only place to eat is at street food stalls, which primarily surround the lake. You can also grab a bite to eat at the Anthropology or Modern Art Museum.
• Chapultepec has a strict no food or beverage policy. That means you can’t even bring in food to eat later in the park. So if you plan on picning, be sure to eat before you enter the castle. They will often search your bags so don’t think you can just hide it.
• Various Museums offer free entry on Sundays. Be sure to check their websites in advance if you’re looking to save some money on entry fees.
• Weekends are by far the busiest time to visit the park. But that is also when most street vendors are out, and the park’s personality shines. Just plan accordingly.

Hours & Access

The park is open from 5 a.m. to 7 p.m Tuesday – Sunday. The First Section of Chapultepec Park is closed on Mondays for maintenance.

To arrive at the proper (and most impressive) entrance to Chapultepec Park, direct your Uber to drop you off in front of the Estela de Luz monument. If you prefer to take the Metro you can take it to Chapultepec Station. From the station’s exit, head north up to Lion’s gate entrance.

The History of Chapultepec Park

Chapultepec Park is situated around Chapultepec Hill, the sacred heart of the city. The Toltecs named the hill “Chapultepec” around the 12 century. The word “Chapultepec” means at the grasshopper hill in the native Nahuatl language of the Toltecs. There is some disagreement among historians whether the name comes from the plethora of grasshoppers that lived in the area or if it was due to the shape of the hill looking like the silhouette of a grasshopper.

At the top of the hill, the Toltecs placed their sacred altar. We know this as there have been remains of this alter excavated at the hill’s summit. The hillside served as a defensive advantage, as it stood looking out of the shores of Lake Texcoco. Despite this advantage, it wouldn’t be along before the Toltecs were overcome.

When the Aztecs conquered the city, they continued to use the hill as a spiritual place. They saw it as a place of power, and it was here that they buried the ashes of their rulers. For this reason, when visiting the park and the palace, we should act very respectfully. Remember you are walking over what was an Aztec graveyard. The various rulers of Mexico City would carve their images onto the eastern side of Chapultepec hill. Thinking this would preserve their memories in stone forever.

The area around the Chapultepec hill was plentiful with freshwater. Monarch Nezahualcoyotl utilized this access to build the first aqueduct that helped direct this freshwater into the city. Nezahualcoyotl loved nature and felt at peace here. He was the first to build a summer palace in the area in 1428. Here he could escape the busy city. Like today, the rich and powerful love escaping countryside mansions.

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Moctezuma II

By the 15th century, the forest was primarily used as a retreat for various Aztec rulers. We have Moctezuma II to thank for so many of the amazing aspects of this park that still exist today. The plentiful trees, plants and waterways around the park were all installed under his watchful eye. Many of the original cypress trees can still be seen today. These are also called “ahuehuete” trees and they mark the ancient outlines of the park. Moctezuma was also the first to build a zoo and arboretum just near the foot of the hill.

One of the most unique aspects of the park you can still visit today is Moctezuma’s Baths. The waters from the aqueducts were channelled into these reservoirs where locals could bathe. Aztecs were a very clean society, with most people bathing at least once a day! There were also several “temazcales” on-site. There were pre-Hispanic saunas and used for ritual cleansing.

The Spanish Invasion

Sadly this period of peace for the Aztecs couldn’t last forever. Here in the forest, the Aztec’s took their last stand against the Spanish in 1521. It was the last stand the Aztec had to save themselves from the eventual conquest. After the land was stolen by the Spanish, Chapultepec Hill and the land around it was given by Cortez over to the Franciscans. The religious order built a temple on the hill. Their attempt to convert the locals over to Christianity by appropriating the Aztec holy site. During this time, the rocks where the Aztec rulers carved their image were destroyed by the Franscian’s. But one stone managed to survive. It depicts Montezuma II’s feathered headdress carrying an omechicahuaztli (a sceptre for rain rituals) in his hand.

Developement of Chapultapec Castle

Chapultepec remained in the hands of the Franciscans for another few hundred years. But in 1785, the church was demolished to make room for a residence for the colonial rulers. This would become Chapultepec Castle. The forest around the castle was to be used as a hunting ground and place for recreation for the upper classes. It was abruptly walled off from the general public. This was such a loss for the people as the sanctuary has been such a meaningful place for hundreds of years.

Even after the Mexican War of Independence, the castle was used as the official residence for the head of state. But happily, the park was opened to the public once more. During the Mexican-American War of 1846, Chapultepec Castle was used as a military academy. It was also used as a political prison. In 1847 it would be the site of another great battle between the Mexican and U.S. troops. During the Second Mexican Empire, the palace transferred hands once. It was given over to the new governor of the city, Maximilian of Habsburg. He transformed it into a truly impressive imperial palace.

Porfirio Díaz Era

Under the rule of the Porfiriato government, the city began to undergo a huge transformation. Porfirio Díaz was obsessed with the idea of turning Mexico City into a European paradise. One of the aspects of his plan involved overhauling the landscape design of the city. He employed José Yves Limantour, Secretary of the Treasury, to revamp the forests around Chapultepec Castle. They installed paved avenues and roads, plazas, fountains, auditoriums and monuments. It was also during this time that large artificial lakes were built.

20th Century

The castle remained in the hands of the government, serving as the presidential residence until 1940. Los Pinos was built at the southwest edge of the park. This new “White House-inspired” neo-classical structure would serve as the new presidential residence and office. Chapultepec Castle was converted into a museum housing relics of the Maximilian era. As well as pieces of history from Mexico’s struggle for independence.

In the 1960s, the park saw its most tremendous modern expansion and construction. The park’s second section was created, and the Pantheon of Dolores was built. The large cemetery a final resting place for the illustrious dead of Mexico’s past. Various modern museums were commissioned. These institutions were a place to show to the locals and the world the cultural heritage of Mexico City. This included the National Museum of Anthropology, the National Gallery of History, the Caracol Museum, and the National Auditorium. There are nine different museums in total located inside the walls of Chapultepec Park.

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Creation of the 3rd Section

The third and final section of the park was created in 1974. The area is primarily a dense forest, that has been declared a Protected Natural Area. In order to combat the growing levels of air pollution, the government developed these protected zones to plant new trees which filter the air. Today, Chapultapec is known as one of the sets of “lungs” which help Mexico City breathe by replenishing oxygen to the city. This part of the park is also a refuge for migratory birds. During the winter, hidden in the trees are birds from Canada the U.S., feeling the cold. But there is also plenty of local wildlife like Mexico’s Cooper hawk, Harris’s hawk, wild ducks, and Vireos, Warblers and Kingfishers.

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Map of Walking Tour

Puerta de Leones

The intricately patterned black iron gates welcome you into Chapultepec Park. But guarding the entrance on either side are these two gigantic lions. This is the great Puerta de Leones or Lion’s Gate of Chapultepec Park. The colossal bronze beasts stand atop granite pedestals, their heads pointing out towards the Paseo de la Reforma. Their eyes keenly open, as if on the lookout for any incoming enemies.

The sculptures were created by French artist Garden and installed here in 1921. They have been greeting friendly visitors ever since. During the big Mexican holidays like Día de Muertos, this gate is often cheerfully decorated with beautiful paper flowers.

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Monument to the Ninos Heroes

Walking through the gates, continue down Avenue Juventud Heroica. The Avenue crosses over the busy Centro Bicentenario highway that you can hear roaring underfoot. At the end of the overpass, you can see the towering columns of the Monument to the Ninos Heroes. As mentioned earlier, Chapultapec Park was the site of the great Mexican American battle of 1847. After being overtaken by the U.S. Army, various cadets who had been defending the palace fled to the inner walls of the castle. Cornered with nowhere to go, six Mexican cadets jumped onto the cliff below. They would rather have died by their own will than be captured or killed by the enemy. Today each one of these six men are honoured within this incredible monument.

The enormous structure was designed by architect Enrique Aragón and sculptor Ernesto Tamariz. Each of the towering six columns features a niche at the base of the pillar. Inside is an urn that contains their ashes. The white columns are capped with the image of the Mexican golden eagle, whose wings reach towards the sky. While the cadets the eagle depicts their divine flight into heaven.

In the centre of the six columns is a large sculpture called the “Altar a la Patria” or Altar to the Homeland. The sculpture depicts a Mexican woman holding the lifeless body of a soldier in one arm. Beside her other arm stands a soldier. He stands tall, seemingly guarding her and the homeland. In honour of those who died guarding her before him.

Petrogrifo de Moctezuma

You’ll find a series of pathways that swirl around the park just beyond the main entrance. Make your way to the enclosure that surrounds the base of the hill. Beyond the fence is a seemingly innocuous rock. This is the Petrogrifo de Moctezuma. These petroglyphs set into the hill’s eastern slope have a series of carvings that you can make out as you look closer. These are the last remaining carvings from the pre-Hispanic rulers. In the top right, you can see the xiuhhuitzolli of Moctezuma II. The xiuhhuitzolli is the turquoise headdress worn by Aztec Mexican royals. The headdress is usually covered in bright blueish-green feathers to symbolize the god Huitzilopochtli. Huitzilopochtli was the god of the sun and the god war. His named means “hummingbird,” which is why the colourful feathers are used in his image.

Ahuehuete “El Sargento”

Continuing around the edge of the hillside, walk along the pathways surrounding the hill. Around the corner is a giant stone memorial, but blocking your initial view of the memorial is a hulking tree trunk. Do not just walk by but take a moment to study the dried-out piece of wood. This is one of the famed Ahuehuete (cypress) trees found inside the park. But this one is extra special. It is called “El Sargento,” as it was planted by Nezahualcoyotl in 1460 on the orders of emperor Moctezuma.

The tree managed to survive for over 500 years, growing up to 40 meters in height. But sadly, it died in 1969. Although these trees are able to live for generations the lack of freshwater, as the ground dried up due to pollution, brought an end to this great tree. A devastating blow to the people of Mexico City. The city created a monument out of the trunk, to preserve what remained for generations to come. It is still a very sacred space for visitors today. And also a warning about pollution and the destruction it can bring.

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Memorial Squadron 201

The enormous stone memorial behind the tree is dedicated to the Mexican 201st Fighter Squadron. This aerial army was initially formed when Mexico came to the aid of the Allies during World War II. During their initial training in Texas, they were nicknamed the “Aztec Eagles,” a name they wore with pride. Despite the historical conflict between Mexico and the USA, they managed to come together in this monumental moment in time. Together, they were able to defeat Japanese troops invading the Philippines. Their Squadron was given credit for keeping 30,000 Japanese troops out of action and destroying enemy-held buildings, vehicles, anti-aircraft guns, and the all-important ammunition depots. The memorial was built to remember the fallen soldiers of the wars as well as the survivors of the military expedition to the Philippines.

Cincalco Cavern

To the left of the memorial is a little path that wraps around the back. Behind here is where you’ll find a little hidden zen garden called the Audiorama. But historically, this area has been one of the most sacred spaces in Mexico City for generations. During the pre-Hispanic period, this place was the entrance to the Cincalco Cavern. The Aztecs believed that these caves were portals between the living and the dead. It was here, many believed, that Tláloc, the god of water, lived.

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In 1162, Huémac, the last Toltec governor, committed suicide after his people were defeated and his city fell. He felt he had failed them and it was here he wished to pass on, submit himself to the will of the gods. Perhaps with his sacrifice, his people would be spared. In modern times, the cave has been sealed off for security reasons. But you can still see the arched entrance that once led inside the hill. The garden is surrounded by an array of wild plants, fruit trees, small rose bushes, and calla lilies.

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Audiorama

In the 1970s, the city decided to revamp the space as a modernized “sacred space” for the residents. It was designed as an outdoor library to read. A series of colourful benches spread out throughout the enclosure provided comfort under the trees. But to enhance the experience, music is pipped into the forest throughout the day through a series of little hidden speakers.

There are different types of music played on different days of the week. On Tuesdays, you get new age, traditional Mexican rhythms on Wednesdays, melodies from Spain, Greece or Brazil on Thursdays, jazz on Fridays, chill out for Saturdays and classical music on Sundays. The Audiorama is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 4 pm. Please respect the silence requested upon entering this part of the park as this is a place for rest and relaxation.

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Chapultepec Castle Hill

Head back the way you came and make your way to the ramp leading to Chapultapec Castle.

Hours and Admission

You need to buy your admission tickets at the booth at the bottom of the hill. Be sure to do this BEFORE you head up the ramp, which leads to the castle. There is nowhere at the top of the hill to buy tickets. The walk is fairly long and steep, and on a hot day, it would be torturous to have to head all the way back down. We saw dozens of people that had this problem and their dejected faces were so sad. So be sure you don’t make this same mistake. The line for the tickets moves very quickly but if you plan on visiting at the absolute peak of the season you should arrive early to beat the crowds.

Hours: 9 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Sunday. Closed on Mondays.
Admission: 85 pesos (US$4) per person. Tickets are free for children under 13 and seniors over 60 years old. Teachers and students with valid credentials and people with disabilities also can get in free.
Be sure to bring some cash as often the machines are often down and tickets are cash only.

After purchasing your ticket, you need to climb the winding hill that encircles the palace. While the pathway is mostly smooth, for anyone with mobility issues, the incline can be tiring. The walk is especially difficult due to the high elevation in Mexico City. It can be slightly harder to catch your breath. Take it slow; there’s no need to rush. In fact, the walk up the hill provides some incredible views across the park and the city. Make sure you drink plenty of water. Even on what might feel like a cooler day, you still can get dehydrated just from the elevation.

Museo del Caracol

Near the top of the ramp, before arriving at the Castle, you’ll approach the Museo del Caracol. A ‘Caracol’ is a snail, as the museum’s exterior is designed to replicate the shape of a sea snail. Inside, to view the exhibitions within, you descend down a spiral staircase, also mirroring the swirl of a snail’s shell. The windows that line the edge of the staircase are filled with dioramas. Each one tells a story relating to the history of Mexico City. From the end of the viceroyalty to the Constitution of 1917.

As the admission is only 80 pesos (US$4), I think it’s well worth a quick look through. There is something about dioramas that really helps bring the country’s history alive. Even if you can’t understand the narration, the scenes are so expressive that you can really get a sense of what’s happening. I think some people might think the museum is a bit cheap and cheesy but I really enjoy all those dollhouse-like detailed scenes.

Hours: 9 am to 4 pm Tuesday to Sunday
Admission: $80 pesos per person. Tickets are free for children under 13 and seniors over 60 years old. Teachers and students with valid credentials and people with disabilities also can get in free.

Chapultepec Castle

The castle itself is divided into two sections; the Museum of Anthropology on the left side and the Palace (or Alcazar) interiors on the right. The Museum of Anthropology is housed inside the former Military College. The collection is a wonderful way to physically see the history of Mexico City, from the time of the conquest until the 20th century, come alive in front of you. Clothing, paintings, objects and elements of everyday life are all on display. My favourite part of this section of the castle has to be their collection of murals. The expressive Mexican murals bring historical events into three dimensions despite being painted on a two-dimensional surface.

The Alcázar portion of the building is where you’ll find various rooms inside the palace still decored as they could have been in the 19th century. During this period the castle was occupied by emperors Maximiliano and Carlota and thereafter President Porfirio Díaz and his wife Carmen Romero Rubio. It is incredible to see how the spaces change as the hands of ownership change. For a complete guide of the Castle Museum check out our full tour here.

Street Food

After finishing up at the castle, walk back the hill towards Avenue H. Colegio Militar. This road will weave its way through the forest towards the best lookout point across Chapultepec Lake. This avenue is absolutely packed with street vendors! Although there is a larger “food court” beside the lake, I would avoid this area. Perhaps since they have more permanent booths, the food can be left inside and therefore isn’t of the highest quality. But the food vendors that flank the roadways are really delicious. So stick with them! These might not be as filling as the meals on offer in the food court area, but you’re better off with a safe bet.

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Guide to Street Snacks

Below are a few of my favourite street snacks so you can keep your eyes out for these reliably delicious traditional treats.

• Chicharron: deep-fried pigskin doused in chilli sauce and freshly squeezed lime juice. Duritos: Duritos (not to be mixed up with Doritos) are a wheat-based pinwheel-shaped snack topped with hot sauce and lime.
• Dorilocos: If you’re looking for something more like a meal, find your way to the Dorilocos vendor. This dish is made by taking a bag of Doritos and slicing it down the long edge, so it opens like a bowl. Then they top it with Mexican radish, shredded cucumber and carrot and Japanese peanuts. Then, of course, it’s topped with lime juice and hot sauce on top. 
• Papas: freshly made potato chips served with hot sauce and lime.

• Paletas: frozen fruit bars made with fresh and natural ingredients. They are made with either milk or fruit juice base. My favourite has got to the mango and chilli!
• Tamarind Candies: Look for brands like Tama-Roco, Pulparindo or Pelón Pelo Rico. There is also Salsaghetti which is watermelon candy in the shape of spaghetti noodles covered with tamarind sauce. 
• La Molienda: coconut candy bar in the colour of the Mexican flag.
• Vero Mango: mango-flavoured candy covered in chile powder.
• Slaps Lollipop: Mexican fruit roll-ups that taste just like a jolly rancher!
• Mazapanes de la Rosa: A peanut-based sweet
• Pepitoria: crunchie wafers filled with honey or caramel, and decorated with pumpkin seeds.

El Lago de Chapultepec

After all those snacks, a great way to burn off some calories is with a pedal around El Lago de Chapultepec. This man-made lake is one of the most picturesque places to take a little blue paddle boat and take in the scenery. The views from the middle of the lake are fantastic and even look out at the Colonia Polanco. The boats cost 60 pesos/hour (around the U.S. $3). Normally, such a touristy activity would price gouge visitors but not here in the park. The locals enjoy a ride as much as the tourists, so prices are kept low to ensure everyone can enjoy a day out!

The Casa del Lago

While paddling on the Lake, you have a fantastic view of the Casa del Lago, the Chapultapec Lake House. The house was built in the 1900s as President Porfirio Diaz‘s summer mansion. Today it serves as the UNAM (Mexico’s National Autonomous University) Chapultapec cultural center.

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Librería Porrúa

If you don’t feel like grabbing a bite to eat from the street vendors, you can head up to the Librería Porrúa. This charming bookstore library is located just on the edge of Chapultepec Park. In addition to a wonderful selection of books, there is a coffee shop inside. You’ll find here a super delicious selection of coffee, snacks, paninis, and more. Plus if it’s a really hot day, its a lovely spot to come and cool off.

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Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec

From here, lets pop into the Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec. While the roped off garden beds and greenhouse might feel modern, these nurseys have been here since the days of Moctezuma. When the Spanish first arrived in Mexico they were amazed by these royal gardens they saw. So much so that they would write home about the incredible plants they found.

The Aztecs had some of the most diverse and exotic gardens. They were filled with medicinal plants for healing wounds. Herbs for cooking as well as fragrant flowers just there for their beauty.

The Botanical gardens we find here today were inaugurated in 2006 over a 5-hectare protected area. Covering the land area are over 400 different plants and trees. The garden is divided into different themes based on the different kind of plants. There are the pollinators, the edible plants, the succulents and the wetland plants. Plus 14 different species of wild dahlias, cacti and agave.

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Orquideario Bosque de Chapultepec

Towards the back of the Botanical Garden you’ll find the glimmering stained glass rooftop that leads you inside the Orquideario Bosque de Chapultepec. This 500-square-meter greenhouse was built in the 1940s and contains stunning examples of Mexican art deco design. The huge barrel domed ceiling runs the entire length of the greenhouse.

The vibrant Aztec inspired stained glass design casting beautiful rainbows of light down on the flower and ferms below. Inside the humid glasshouse, you can find their precious collection of orchid. s is maintained.

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Botanical Garden Open: 9 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday | Orchid Garden Open: 9 am to 3 pm

Museo Nacional de Antropología

For the rest of the afternoon, there are a few different museums that you can explore. If you’ve never been to Mexico, let alone Mexico City before, the Museo Nacional de Antropología is a wonderful place to learn more about the country’s history. The museum contains significant archaeological and anthropological artifacts from Mexico’s pre-Columbian heritage. It is considered a national treasure and a symbol of Mexico’s identity.

Stone of the Sun

One of the most significant pieces of the collection is the Stone of the Sun or the Aztec calendar stone. This sizeable circular stone carving weighs 24,590 kg and is over 141 inches wide! It dates back to approximate the beginning of the 16th century. The Stone of the Sun was so precious to the people of Tenochtitlan that after the Spanish invaded, they buried the stone under the Zocalo. In the hopes that hiding it there would keep it safe.

The Stone was only discovered in 1790 when repairs were required under the new Mexico City Cathedral. After the discovery, the church actually mounted the stone on the building’s exterior. There it remained for almost a hundred years. Perhaps as a way to convince unconverted Mexicans over to the Christianity. Finally, in 1885, it was moved to the new Archaeological Museum inside the El Chopo Musuem in Colonia Santa María la Ribera. It remained there until the opening of this museum.

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Architecture of Museo Nacional de Antropología

If you only see the design of the building from the front facade you might think the building is rather simple and austere. The white bricked facade is devoid of any decoration save for the central medallion featuring a stone carving of the eagle of Mexico City with a serpent in its mouth. But to see the real architectural treasure you need to head inside towards the back courtyard. The building was designed in 1964 by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano, and Rafael Mijares Alcérreca. The courtyard features a huge concrete umbrella supported by a single slender pillar (known as “el paraguas,” Spanish for “the umbrella”). Water pours down from the umbrella into the vast square pond below. It’s one of the most impressive structures I’ve ever seen and the sound of the rain falling is hypnostizing.

Open: 10 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Saturday, Closed Mondays
Admission: Permanent exhibition $85 pesos (US $4)
To use a video camera, you must get a permit and pay a fee of $45 pesos.

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Museo de Arte Moderno

Right beside the Botanical Gardens is the Museo de Arte Moderno. The Museum of Modern art contains the largest collections of Mexican art from the 20th century. The museum was built in 1963 under the guise of architect and designer Pedro Ramírez Vázquez and Rafael Mijares. Even without all the artwork, this museum is a wonder to explore.

It’s collection features work from José Chávez Morado, David Alfaro Siqueiros, José Clemente Orozco and Remedios Varo. But most famously, it owns a few precious paintings by Frida Kahlo. Frida Kahlo produced a relatively small oeuvre, and getting to see one of her paintings in real life is an exceptional experience. Her surrealist self-portrait ‘Las dos Fridas‘ is one of her most impactful pieces. This piece was painted shortly after her divorce from fellow Mexican artist Diego Rivera. It was a means for her to process the depression and loneliness she experience after the divorce.

Open: 11 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Saturday, Closed Mondays
Admission: $65 pesos (US $3)

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Zoológico de Chapultepec

If you’re travelling with children, instead of a museum, a visit to the Zoológico de Chapultepec is a great alternative. While adults might give it a miss (as there aren’t really any uniquely “Mexico-City” aspects to the zoo) it’s always a hit with kids. Plus, admission is free for everyone! This is a huge bonus since activities with kids can get really expensive. The only part of the zoo that requires an entry fee is the butterfly house (US$3.50). There are many classic zoo animals to see here. Everything from lions, rhinos, monkeys, tigers, and, most famously, their great Chinese Panda .

But if you’re going to visit, my best advice is to be sure to see the Xoloitzcuintle. The Xoloitzcuintle is a hairless dog native to Mexico. The name ‘Xoloitzcuintle‘ is from the Nahuatl languagee and is derived from the word ‘Xolotl’ who was the god of fire and lightning. ‘Itzcuīntli‘ was the Nahuatl word for “dog,” for it basically translates to “God’s dog.”

Open: 9 am to 4:30 pm Tuesday to Sunday
Admission is free

La Casa de la Bici Bosque de Chapultepec

If museums aren’t your thing, a wonderful way to explore the rest of the park is by bike. The park’s winding back routes and pathways are sprawling! To see it all, the best way is to hop on a bike. You can pick up a rental bike from the central Casa de la Bici in the southwest corner of the park. This place rents out bikes for 70 pesos per hour (the U.S. $3.30) or 100 pesos (the U.S. $4.80) for two hours. You are required to leave a valid photo I.D. with them to ensure you return with the bike. Don’t leave anything important like your passport, but a driver’s licence or even a health card will be OK. Most of the bikes have adorable white baskets on the front. Perfect for storing your treats or backpacks so you can bike around unimpeded.

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Fuente del Quijote

Whether you’re cruising around on the bike or just walking on foot, here are a few other stops you might want to make around the park. Just north of the bike rental house is the Fuente del Quijote. A ‘Fuente‘ is the Spanish word for fountain. The ‘Fountain of Don Quixote‘ dates back to 1921 and it is one of the most incredible fountains in the entire park. The rather small central fountain with four central mermaids is surrounded by four stone benches covered in handpainted tiles. Each of the hundreds of tiles features detailed images from the book Don Quixote de la Mancha by Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra. By looking at each one you could easily piece together the entire story.

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Restoration of the Fountain

Sadly, in 2015 the fountain was severely vandalized. Two statues of famous painter Salvador Dalí and Mexican master Diego Rivera were both stolen, never to be seen since. Many of the tiles were also taken or partially destroyed. The figures actually have a history of thievery. They were first made by Spanish sculptor Miguel Alessio Robles by stolen in 1974. So they were replaced by another set made by José María Fernández Urbina. Unfortunately, these would be sentenced to the same fate.

But thanks to public donations, the entire fountain is on its way to looking brand new once more! You can even make a donation yourself! A great way to support the park and preserve it for generations to come. Donations can be as little as 200 pesos (US$10), and it really goes a long way ! While you can’t entre the enclosure while restoring are underway, you can peek inside to get a sneak peek at once was. Plus you can even see the artists at work throughout the week, hard at work hand painting tiles.

Poets’ Causeway

Off to the east from the Fuente del Quijote is the Calzada De la Poetas or Poets’ Causeway. Along this stretch of the pathway are a series of busts of famous poets from the 19th and 20th centuries. The statues include Doña Inés de Asbaje y Ramírez de Santillana, better known as Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz OSH. Doña Inés was a Mexican writer, philosopher, composer and poet of the Baroque period. And to top it all off she was even a Hieronymite nun. Salvador Díaz Mirón was a Mexican poet known for his passionate, romantic style, influenced by Lord Byron and Victor Hugo. Manuel José Othón was a Mexican poet, playwright, and politician. One of his most famous works is Idilio Salvaje, considered one of the most representative poems of Mexico. You can read a part of this poem on the small plaque beside his bust.

Carrusel De Chapultepec

Through the forest, to the west of the park, is the hidden away Carrusel De Chapultepec. Although this is meant for kids, I’m a sucker for a beautiful carousel. And this one is no exception. The amazing double-decker Carrusel De Chapultepec is a relatively new addition to the park. It was moved here in 2018 from its original location in Alameda Central. But its history is much older. Before its life in Mexico City, the carousel was once in Chicago but first made in Venice! Look up along the ceiling and roof that encircles the carousel. There, you can see intricately painted vignettes featuring scenes from life in Venice. An automatic piano plays music as the carousel spins, with over 1,800 spotlights twinkling as it turns round and round.

Open: Tuesday to Sunday.
Admission: $18 pesos (less than US$1) to ride. Adults can sit in the wooden benches on the first level.

Fuente de las Ranas

At the intersection of Avenue H. Colegio Militar and Calz. Mahatma Gandhi is the Fuente de las Ranas. The Fuente de las Ranas or Fountain of the Frogs is an exact replica of a fountain of the same name in Seville. When Spanish lawyer Miguel Alessio Robles was named the Mexican minister in 1921, he ordered the fountain to be made. He wanted to bring to Mexico City a piece of his home country.

The fountain was first installed at the park entrance but has since been moved towards the back of the park. The fountain is covered in beautiful Sevillian tiles. Surrounding the outer edge is a series of eight rotund golden painted frogs. Their open mouths spraying water towards the bronze duck and tortoise who sit in the centre of the fountain. The duck sits atop the turquoise with its mouth pointing upwards, shooting water from its mouth into the air. It’s such a playful fountain and a wonderful addition to the park. It’s these little gems that make wandering the pathways so endearing.

Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotlht

Opposite the Fuente de las Ranas is the entrance to best fountain of them all; the Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotl. Nezahualcóyotl is a name we’ve heard before as his impact in the history book, as well as in Chapultepec park was immense! Nezahualcóyotl was the monarch of the city-state of Texcoco in ancient Mexico from 1429 to 1472. He was known as a great poet in addition to a fantastic scholar and wonderful architect. His name means the “fasting coyote,” as fasting was considered a form of sacrifice. Some monarchs would do to attempt to appease the gods and aid their people. If you look for one of the old Mexican 100 peso bill you can see his face. Along with his portrait is one of his most cherished poems. It goes;

I love the song of the mockingbird,
Bird of four hundred voices,
I love the colour of the jadestone,
And the intoxicating scent of flowers,
But more than all, I love my brother, man.

Nezahualcóyotl

Nezahualcóyotl’s Dam

The Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotl is by far the largest of all the fountains in the park. The fountain begins to emerge from the edge of the forest, and covers 1,250 square meters. Flowing like a vein up to the central square and domineering statue at the end of the wall-like fountain. It was made by sculptor Luis Ortiz Monasterio in 1956. The shape of the fountain was inspired by Nezahualcóyotl’s Dam. Nezahualcóyotl was instructed by Moctezuma I to construct a dam over 16 km long. The dam was to be used to defend against the flood waters which plagued the ancient Tenochtitlan (Mexico city). Nezahualcóyotl was also responsible for the aqueducts in Chapultepec forest that supplied Tenochtitlan with safe drinking water. This work earned him the reputation of the best architect in the Americas.

Monasterio’s fountain-like dam was inspired by the pre-hispanic architectural styles of the 15th century. Entering this area, you are greeted by a fantastic carving of a giant coyote. The coyote has his mouth open wide, a menacing smile, with water gushing forth. Water also flows out of the hundreds of carved medallions along the top of the wall. Once one carved from black stone from Xaltocan.

Statue and Life Reliefs of Nezahualcóyotl

Along the facade of the fountain you’ll find eight large bas reliefs. Each one depicts a scene from the life of Nezahualcóyotl. The first relief shows Nezahualcóyotl’s birth, the death of his father, his battles for the territory, the arrival of water to Chapultepec and his death in 1472.

The sculpture in the centre of the square is of Nezahualcóyotl himself, standing nine meters tall. Watching over his beloved park forever. Behind him is a wall made of volcanic stones with three symbols emblazoned up the facade. Each of the symbols refers to the three tribes of indigenous peoples that inhabited the Valley of Mexico; the Texcoco, Tenochitlán and Tlacopan. It is a wonderful place to end the tour, to remember that this space was one a sacred site for the indigenous peoples and we are lucky to still be able to enjoy this green oasis today.

Chapultepec Park is truly a must-visit if you’re in Mexico City. It’s not only the perfect place to enjoy a peaceful day out, but also where you can learn a lot about Mexican culture and history. Make the effort to carve out the time to really appreciate the beauty of this sprawling natural sanctum.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Ultimate Guide to Chapultepec Park: Historical and Cultural Heart of Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Schönbrunn Palace

Schönbrunn Palace was the primary summer residence of the Habsburg rulers, located in Hietzing, Vienna. The name Schönbrunn means “beautiful spring” as the palace was located beside a large freshwater reserve. The palace is perhaps best known for the 1,441 fantastical Baroque and Rococo interiors. The amazingly preserved nature of the palace has been deemed a UNESCO world heritage site. You can walk through the palace room by room through Google Arts and Culture virtual tour. To support the tour, you can go to the palace’s website to get more information on the history of each room. On the site, you can get details on the design of the interior and the incredible decorative arts which embellsih each of the incredible rooms.

If you would prefer a video tour, then you can watch the 4K video below. This video leads you throughout the exterior and interior of the palace. The beautiful classical music playing throughout provides an immersive experience. With the music surrounding you, one can better imagine what it would have been like to attend a lavish court ball in the palace.

Palace of Versailles

The Palace of Versailles was the main royal residents for the kings and queens of France since 1682. The palace was built under Louis XIV, who originally owned a small hunting lodge on the grounds. Over the years, he transformed the small lodge into this incredible chateau! Google Arts and Culture have set up an amazing set of stories, tours, photo galleries, and more to help visitors digitally experience the history and wonder that is Versaille.

If you’re looking for something absolutely 21st century, then you need to check out “VersaillesVR The Palace is Yours.” On this app, Versaille has been captured in VR. This allows anyone with a VR headset to explore the palace in 360°. Everywhere you move your head, the camera follows like you are really there. You can see the King and Queen’s State Apartments, climb onto the stage in the Royal Opera House, discover the Hall of Mirrors, and walk right up to tapestries, paintings, sculptures and furniture! You can even switch to night mode to explore the palace by the light of the chimney fires.

If you don’t own a VR headset, you can still explore the rooms in 360° using the website Poly. On this site, you can click on a variety of Versaille’s interior rooms and explore them in detail. There are even info icons that are clickable to see more information. From there you are able to learn all about the history of the rooms you’re exploring.

Buckingham Palace

Pretty much everyone has heard the name Buckingham Palace, but I’m guessing far fewer of you have been inside. Buckingham Palace, located in London, is the royal residence of the Kings and Queens of England. If you’ve been watching the Netflix series, ‘The Crown‘ you’ll be even more interested to learn and see the REAL interiors which the show tries its best to emulate.

The palace is home to 775 rooms, the most lavish of which are the State Rooms. These are used for official and state entertaining. They are only open to the public during August and September. The reason for this is that the royal family spends their summers in Balmoral and are not in royal residence. Since the public has such a small window to view the rooms they remain a rare sight to see. But not anymore!

The Royal Collection Trust has created an online gallery and tour of the palace’s State Rooms. Some of the rooms can be explored in 360° so you can look all around you like you were really there! Throughout the scenes, you can click on the information icons to get more details about the space.

Doge’s Palace

Found in the fairytale city of Venice is the incredible Doge’s Palace. A Doge was the Venetian chief magistrate and the closest thing the city would get to have their own King. The palace was built as his residences in the center of Venice, right on St. Mark’s Square. It was originally built in 1340 but modified many times throughout the centuries. In 1923 it was transformed into a museum with some of the cities most precious works of art. Today, you can view the interiors of the palace through a Google Arts and Culture virtual tour. With this guide you can explore and learn all about the history of the building as well as walk through their masterful gothic interiors.

If you’re looking for a more complete tour of the palace, then head over to Musement for one of their guided virtual tours. With this tour, you can explore the Doge’s Palace along with a complete audio narration. To go along with the audio track are beautiful pictures of the building, as well as satellite and views of the palace and its surroundings. Through the power of storytelling, you’ll really feel like you’re there.

Pena Palace

I’ve been lucky enough to visit many different palaces throughout my travels. But my favourite of them all has got to be Pena Palace! Located outside of Lisbon, in the town of Sintra, Pena Palace is the ultimate in romantic castles. The palace was built atop the foundations of an old monastery. King Ferdinand took ownership of the land in 1838 and set out to transform the ruins into a fantastical summer residence for his family.

The bright red, yellow and purple-grey colours of the facade immediately made it so unique. The multicoloured Portuguese tile, Azulejo, add another magical touch that makes the palace such a visual draw. Today you can view the palace from high above as if you were flying over it in a helicopter. AirPano gives us a bird’s eye view over the top of this amazing palace. From up high you can study parts of the structure that you’d never be able to see otherwise.

If you’re are looking for a more informative tour, you can check out my Ultimate Self Guided tour. I have so many pictures and a detailed account of my time there. While it was written as a guide for people visiting the site in person, with all the pictures and descriptions I think you’ll be able to imagine what it’s like to really be there.

The Château of Chambord

The Château de Chambord is one of the great palaces of France. Built in the 16th century for Francis I, the place is located in the center of the stunning Loire Valley. The palace blends French Renaissance architecture with traditional medieval structures. The most iconic part of the castle is surely the 800 sculpted columns and elaborately decorated roof. Francis, wanted these columns to resemble the skyline of Constantinople. The Google Arts and Culture exhibit studies the history of the castle. It features a multitude of archaeological discoveries, which delves into the wonders of its construction. Seeing the palace in both photographs and architectural layouts allows you to appreciate the technical skill which was involved in creating such a masterpiece. And hundreds of years ago, without modern technology to boot!

Once you’ve finished reading the article, you can head inside the castle and explore it virtually. My favourite part of this castle is all the intricately sculpted bits of stone decor. Near the grand staircase, you’ll find 200 finials and a patterned ceiling with a variety of characters, both mythological and religious, dotting the vaults. Looking down on you like little spies.

Bolsover Castle

Bolsover Castle, located in the small town of Bolsover in the English countryside, is known as the “little castle.” The name comes from the fact the main “castle” structure is surrounded by these large fortifications. The juxtaposition of the expansive courtyard and huge winged terrace makes the castle appear even smaller. The castle was built in the 17th century above the ruins of a 12th-century medieval castle. Today, it remains one of the best examples of Jacobean architecture. The palace was built as a retreat for banqueting and pleasure by William Cavendish, 1st Duke of Newcastle. While the castle might not strike you as anything special right away, its secrets are hidden inside. William was obsessed with creating puzzles to flatter and amuse his guests. The Google Arts and Culture exhibit aims to help you unravel the mysteries inside Bolsover’s Little Castle. 

Neuschwanstein Castle

To view the interiors of the palace, you can head over to their official website. From there you can follow along with their visual tour. It’s amazing to see the level of decoration and detail which went into the castle. So many aspects of the castle look more like a Byzantine church than a castle. My favourite room of the palace has got to be the ‘Singers’ Hall.’ This was also the King’s favourite room in the entire palace. It occupies the whole of the fourth floor. The room’s design pays homage to the German legends of Lohengrin, the Swan Knight. Look closely for little swan icons hidden in the frescoes.

Bran Castle

Bran Castle, located on the Transylvanian side of Romania, is better known by the public as “Dracula’s Castle”. While there is no evidence, Bram Stocker even visited the castle, and the castle itself bears no resemblance to the one in the book, the legend remains. Perhaps the main reason for the connection is due to its revelance to Vlad the Impaler. Vlad was the true to life inspiration for the character of Dracula. Vlad III or Vlad the Impaler was the ruler of Wallachia from 1448 to 1476. His legendary name comes from the fact that Vlad had the bodies of his enemies impaled on large spikes to ward off invading Ottomans and Hungarian. His rule was rutheless and he would punish his enermies as well as his citizens just a brutally.

While Vlad never owned Castle Bran, there are rumours that he was once imprisoned there after his capture by the Hungarians. Historical records show that he was imprisoned in Budapest. But since the castle is so foreboding and dramatic, it was colloquially referred to as his prison.

Today the castle is now a museum playing host to objects and furniture collected by Queen Marie, the last Queen of Romania. You are able to explore the exterior and interiors of the building through google street view. While the Romanian castle might not be as opulent and grand as others around Europe, I think seeing this kind of art and architecture is such an important and interesting contrast.

The castle’s official website also offers visitors video tours of the castle. I especially love the video filmed of the Castle during a winter snowfall. It looks both so picturesque and haunting at the same time in the chill of winter. There is also a complete castle gallery to get a better look into the furnishing and art inside the palace. 

Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal also called the ‘Crown of the Palace‘ was commissioned in 1632 by emperor Shah Jahan. He had the palace made as a tomb for his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal. And when he died, he was buried there as well, with his true love. It’s fascinating to know that one of the most beautiful structures in the world is actually a giant tomb. The ivory-white marble mausoleum sits on the southern bank of the river Yamuna in the Indian city of Agra. Today it is one of the 10 “Man-Made Wonders of the World“. The Google Arts and Culture exhibit, ‘Four Secret Spots at the Taj Mahal,’ takes you a street view tour of the lesser-known corners of India’s most iconic structure. There are so many discoveries I made looking through this virtual guide and I loved learning about those otherwise unknown secrets.

Miramare Castle

Miramare Castle is one of the great Italian castles. Built in the 19th-century on the Gulf of Trieste, the castle was made for Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian and his wife, Charlotte of Belgium, who would go on to become Empress Carlota of Mexico. The interiors of the castle have been captured in 360, and you can walk the halls of the palace yourself! 

To view the exteriors of the castle, there are some great videos online which make you feel like you’re really there! The castle’s grounds were designed by the archduke himself. They include some incredible landscaping featuring tropical species of trees and plants. The videos just make you want to jump right into that blue water that surrounds the castle.

Chapultepec Castle

A perfect segway from Miramare Castle is over to Mexico to Chapultepec Castle. This was Charlotte of Belgium’s residence when she became Empress Carlota of Mexico. I was amazed upon visiting the castle that such a thing existed in the modern metropolis of downtown Mexico City. Chapultepec Castle’s name comes from the Nahuatl word” chapoltepēc”, which means “at the grasshopper’s hill.” The hillside was for hundreds of years a sacred place for the Aztecs. In the 18th century, before the palace was built, the hillside was home to a gunpowder warehouse and military academy. Then in 1864, it became the official residence of Emperor Maximilian I and his consort Empress Carlota.

Carlota went to great care and expensive to remodel the palace into a luxurious residence. It was used as an official residence of the President of Mexico from 1883 until 1939. After which it was turned into a museum. My blog all about my visit to the castle is a highly detailed summary of all the wonders you’ll find there. YouVisit also has a wonderful virtual tour you can take to view parts of the palace in 360 degrees!

Catherine Palace

The Catherine Palace is a Rococo palace in Tsarskoye Selo just outside St. Petersburg, Russia. This was the summer residence of the Russian tsars, built in 1710 by Peter the Great for his wife Catherine I. The original palace for Catherine was only 16 rooms large, a fraction of the size it is now. When Catherine the first died, the palace was inherited by her daughter Elizabeth I. Elizabeth took upon expanding the palace into the grand structure it is today. Although none of the original rooms from Catherine’s time remain, her daughter loved her so much she always wanted it to be named after her.

In this 45-minute video tour, you are lead through the palace by guide Nadezhda Mironenko. You can see the details that architect Rastrelli took such great care in creating. He was a baroque visionary and took such great care in ensuring the palace was the gem of the baroque age. You’ll visit the Grand Hall, the Golden Suite and the Amber Room (the so-called eighth wonder of the world). The Amber Room is a chamber covered floor to ceiling in amber panels, backed with gold leaf and shimmering mirrors. The interior is absolutely overwhelming, and even though you can’t be there in person, you can still be in awe of the spectacle in front of you.

Matsumoto Castle

Matsumoto Castle is one of Japan’s best-preserved historic castles. It is located in the city of Matsumoto, in Nagano Prefecture. The castle also goes by the nickname “Crow Castle” because of its black exterior. Because the original wooden interiors and external stonework remain from the 16th century, it has been listed as a National Treasure of Japan. The Discovery Makes Knowledge youtube channel has a lovely video guide that leads you through the castle. Throughout the video, you get a great understanding of the history and meaning behind so many aspects of the palace.

After getting a primer with the video, head over to the Palace’s official website to get extremely detailed explanations about everything around the castle. You can use google street view to walk the castle’s ground and follow along with the website’s guide.

Lobkowicz Palace

The Lobkowicz Palace is one of the largest palaces inside Prague Castle. It was built in the 16th century by the Czech nobleman Jaroslav of Pernštejn. For many years, their doors remained closed to the public, used only by the palace’s residents. But in 2007, the building was transformed into a museum. Inside it features a great collection of artworks and decorative items from the Lobkowicz Collection. You’ll find paintings by Antonio Canaletto, Pieter Brueghel the Elder, Lucas Cranach the Elder, and Diego Velázquez hung on the walls. You can also see musical instruments, original manuscripts and early prints of composers, including Beethoven and Mozart.

One of my favourite Czech youtube channels, The Honest Guide, produced this fantastic exclusive video during the height of lockdown in Prague. Lobkowicz Palace is a privately owned building and the channel was given private access to tour their collection. Since Prague was in lockdown there were no public visitors so they had the whole place to themselves.

Start the video about 12 minutes in to begin right as they enter the museum. What makes the tour so interesting is that the guide is actually a descendant of the family who owns the palace! His stories and selection of favourite pieces inside the museum really make it feel more intimate and personal experience. They had some technical difficulties with the sound but stick with it as the information you get is fantastic!

I hope you enjoyed this guide of my favourite palaces around the world you can still visit online! In one day you’ll be able to travel across the globe and see some of the most opulent and ornate state rooms and royal galleries! Let me know in the comment what your favourite palace was or where you would like to visit virtually!

Happy (virtual) Travels, Adventurers!

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When I first came to Denmark, this castle was one of the top things on my list to do. Rick Steves‘, my personal travel guru, had a rave review of Frederiksborg and I knew, based on his opinion, I had to make the journey out there myself! The most unique aspect of the castle is perhaps its furnishings. Frederiksborg is decorated to look as if it is still inhabited. There are few barriers between you and the history and at times, when you’re alone in the room, you feel like you could just jump into bed (but don’t). As you move through the castle, you travel through time, room by room, by the changing decor.

Location

Frederiksborg Castle is located in the small town of Hillerød. If you want to make an entire day out of your trip to Frederiksbborg Castle, you should spend some time in the village of Hillerød. It is such a perfect, quaint little town. The Hillerød City & Graphic Museum is a great place to visit on your way out of town. It features a complete history oh Hillerod, games for children and a little letterpress museum. There is an amazing gallery featuring samples of advertisements that were used in town printed on that very letterpress. Large dioramas of what day-to-day activities would have looked like in Denmark in the 19th-century are also joyfully curated to bring this town’s history to life.

How to Get There

Assuming you’re coming to Frederiksborg from Copenhagen, you’ll just need to hop on the S-train. Take Line A from Copenhagen Station to Hillerød Station. The ride takes about 40 minutes and costs 92 DKK or $9 USD.

From Hillerød Station you can walk directly to the Palace. The walk takes just under 20 minutes and is a lovely little jaunt through the village. If the weather isn’t on your side, you can also take the local bus 301 (towards Ullerød) or bus 302 (towards Sophienlund). Get off at the stop “Frederiksborg Slot” or Frederiksborg Palace.

There is also a third option, which is the ferry! You can take the ferry right into the castle but I would recommend doing the ferry on your way back. The optimal way to experience the castle tour is from via the roadway which leads into the front entry, whereas the ferry would take you into via the back entrance.

Hours and Admission

Buy your tickets online or at the castle on the day you arrive. Unless you’re visiting during the absolute peak of the season, I wouldn’t worry about buying a ticket in advance as this castle is pretty quiet when compared to other popular attractions.

Accessibility

It’s important to note that the entryway into the castle is heavily cobbled. If you have a walking aid you should be ok with some assistance. But if you require handicapped access, there is a separate entrance available to the right of the main entrance. Press the button to call for assistance.

Elevators connect all floors of the museum for wheelchair access. The only rooms not available are the Palace Chapel and the Great Hall (which are not accessible to wheelchairs). If you think all the walking might be a little strenuous and you’d rather be comfortable, the museum has two wheelchairs, which can be borrowed from the ticket office. Authorized guides and assistance dogs are also welcome in the museum.

When to Arrive

I would recommend arriving right when the palace opens. There is so much to see here but arriving at opening also means you’ll find the least amount of people here. The early bird catches the worm, and when I came in the early morning I had almost the entire place to myself. It was magical. But one of the reasons I love this castle is because of its low levels of tourist traffic. That means that even if you get up late you’ll still find a rather open and uncrowded palace to explore.

Kaffebar

Since the only cafe on the castle property is located very far away from the main entrance, you’re best to stop for some breakfast or lunch on your way into town. My pick would be Kaffebar. This bohemian cafe is a great place to get your morning brew and enjoy a traditional Danish breakfast. Which, contrary to popular belief, does not contain danishes. Try their freshly baked rye bread with cheese, ham and sausage or one of their many rich pastries!

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History of Frederikzborg Castle

Purchased by Frederick II in 1560, Frederiksborg Castle was once simply a noble manor house owned by a wealthy landowner. At the time, Frederick II was the reigning sovereign of Denmark and Norway. He fell in love with the manor. Frederick was obsessed with obtaining it and eventually purchased it in exchange for a new royal title for the current owner. He named it Frederiksborg, which translated means literally to “Frederick’s Palace“. Frederick II made many additions to expand the house into an awe-inspiring castle. He wanted to build on the grandeur of the original structure but add his own artistic touches.

When his son, Christian IV, became king he was keen to transform the palace as well. These kings never seemed satisfied. Christian was born inside the walls of the palace. Therefore, it held a very important place in the heart of the new king. Christian IV was progressive. He loved the new style and designs of Dutch Renaissance architecture. Once he took power, he was excited to see the palace reflect the designs of his time. Flemish architect Hans van Steenwinckel the Elder was brought on to create Christian’s vision. It took over 10 years to be completed and the construction even outlived the original architect.

1800s Renovations

In the 1800s, renovations took place to install new fireplaces throughout the castle as the heating had been a huge issue for the comfort of those nobles inside. But it was this very act that would bring great destruction to the palace. One winter’s night, while in his study, the current king Frederick VII asked for a fire to be lit to keep him warm while he worked late into the night. Since the chimneys were still under construction, the smoke and heat could not be released and a fire broke out inside the castle.

The Great Fire

The lake was frozen over and staff couldn’t get enough water pumped to put out the fire. The fire spread rapidly throughout the castle and by morning almost the entire palace had been severely damaged or destroyed. Staff had worked throughout the night to save over 300 paintings and smaller historical items from the fire. You can still see these saved items on display today inside the castle.

After the fire, the royals stayed in another one of their residences while Frederiksborg castle was being rebuilt. But after a short period of time, the royals decided to abandon the reconstruction of Frederiksborg castle. It was too much of a financial drain on their coffers and since they had other large manor houses, it felt like an unnecessary expense.

Transformation into a Museum

In 1878, J. C. Jacobsen, the founder of Carlsberg Brewery, had the grand idea to turn the disused Palace, into a museum. Jacobsen was a passionate collector and loved his country. He thought it was a travesty to see this beautiful piece of history deteriorating in the countryside. He offered to pay for all its reconstruction and any further expenses! Today the palace is still run by the Carlsberg Foundation and it is thanks for him that can explore this wonderous piece of Danish architecture. 

The castle museum features 500 years of Danish history which has been woven throughout the walls of the palace. There are portraits, paintings of historic events, antique furniture and decorative arts dotting the entire palace, creating a timeline of Danish life. Seeing these pieces in-situ, rather than just clumped together in a modern gallery, makes history come alive! Many portraits along these walls are of some of the most famous Danes and Royals who helped shape the face of their country and even lived within the walls of the castle.

Castle Lake

When you first approach the castle, you’ll spot the large lake which surrounds it. It creates a reflective frame around the beautiful red-bricked building. This lake is appropriately called “Castle Lake” and was built in 1560. It served both as a leisure area for the King and his court but also as a moat to keep the castle protected. While Denmark hasn’t seen war in many years, during the time of the castle’s construction, Denmark had frequent battles with other Scandinavian nations, so protection was very important. Today, the area around the lake is accessible to everyone from Hillerød and acts as a public park for the townspeople.

Town Gate

The first thing you’ll see when you arrive at the entrance to the castle is a small bridge in front of a stone archway called the Town Gate. In the centre of the stone archway is a statue of a great lion. He represents one of the three lions which serve as a symbol of Denmark.

Staldgaden

After passing under the gate, you’ll walk down a narrow street towards the castle. The name of this small street is called Staldgaden which translates to housing street as this was where all the servants to the king’s court lived. Walking down this narrow cobblestone pathway, you can see on either side of you two, single-storey buildings. These old complexes were the King’s Stables (to the west) and the Hussars’ Stables (to the east).

At the back of the stables are two matching towers, dubbed the Frederik II’s Round Towers. These were built in 1562 and bear the coat of arms of Frederick II. On the coat of arms is the motto Mein Hoffnung zu Gott allein which means “My hope to God alone“. 

The Gatehouse

As you reach the end of Staldgaden you’ll pass along the S-shaped bridge, over the castle lake, to bring you to the feet of the gatehouse. Christian VI’s Gatehouse was built in 1736. Standing guard, with its copper tiered roof, the Gatehouse is adorned with a huge sandstone relief of the Danish Coat of Arms. The Danish Coat of Arms is made up of three lions with their paws extended, surrounded by nine hearts. These hearts are also called “søblade“, and represent the love for the sea as the Danes were known for their seafaring explorations.

The Neptune Fountain

After you pass through the gatehouse you’ll emerge into the first courtyard. Standing in the center is the commanding Neptune Fountain. The fountain was made in honour of the naval forces in Denmark which were the leading army on the Baltic seas. At the very top of the fountain, we can see the great sea god Neptune. He stands with his hand outstretched, reaching out towards us. In Neptune’s other hand is his great Tritan, at the ready to defend Denmark.

Below him, on pedestals around the central column, are gorgeous rivers and spring deities. Surrounding the lowest level of the fountain are water nymphs. In their hands, they play seashell trumpets. Water spurts forth from these decorations to exalt their great leader, Neptune.

Dutchman Adrian de Vries

The original fountain was designed by Dutchman Adrian de Vries in 1617 but the one that stands here today is actually a replica. This is because the fountain, in its entirety, was stolen by the Swedes during the Swedish Wars. If you’ve ever visited the Royal Summer Palace in Drottningholm, Sweden, you’ll have seen the original fountain as it still stands there today. The current design was made in 1888, funded by Jacob Christian Jacobsen who felt his museum wasn’t complete until the fountain was at least in some part, restored to the palace.

On either side of the Nepture fountain, you’ll see two thin buildings. On the left, we have the Castellan’s lodge and on the right, we have the Chancery Building. A castellan is an appointed official, a governor of a castle and its surrounding territory. The chancery is the building that houses diplomatic missions, such as the Danish embassy. Both of these places were of great importance to the function of the royal family and the government.

Frederiksborg Castle Buildings

Standing in front of the Neptune fountain you’ll have an unobstructed view of the grandeur that is Frederiksborg Castle. Designed in the classic Dutch Renaissance tradition, Frederiksborg is shaped in a quadrangular structure. Dutch Renaissance architecture used red bricks for the exterior and the buildings were topped with stepped gables and towering copper spires.

The four main structures, which make up the quadrangular castle can be seen here from a distance. To the west, we have the Chapel Wing, which was built in 1606. Straight in front of your eyes is the main wing, the King’s Wing, built in 1604. To the east, we have Princess Wing built in 1608. The fourth structure is the clock tower built in 1617 after nine years of construction. These buildings are all joined together by the Terrace Wing to form the great Frederiksborg Castle.

The Terrance Wing

Guarding the entrance to the castle, is a large central doorway that leads into the secondary courtyard. Atop the doorway is a great sandstone work of art carved into the portal. This is the monogram of Christian IV. The large ‘C4’ is chiselled into a circular coin shape, surrounded by rich foliage. On either side of the monogram are two small carvings in the shape of a man and woman. On the left, we have the image of King Christian himself and on the right, is his wife, Anne Catherine of Brandenburg.

Below this area, take a look at the small coat of arms with two unicorns on either side. Unicorns are a part of a cherished Danish myth that says that the throne of Denmark was made of the horns of thousands of unicorns. As such the mythological animal is a strong piece of symbolism to the country.

On either side of the bridge before crossing into the inner courtyard, you’ll find two large sandstone statues of great lions. The lions are reared up on their back legs, with their paws wrapped around a large orb. Orbs are seen frequently in royal symbolism and are thought to represent the globe. The lions with their hands wrapped around it therein representing the Danish power wrapping around the world.

Exterior Statues

On either side of the large doorway, are a series of sumptuously decorated set of sculptures under an ornamented balustrade. Inside the little niches are sculptures of characters from astrology and mythology. The Dutch Renaissance loved these themes and this addition seemed to add to the fairytale nature of the castle. Included in these statues are images of Alexander the Great and Julius Caesar, two amazing historical leaders that the Danish kings wanted to mirror in their own leadership.

Inner Courtyard

Enter through the doorway into the inner courtyard. Staring right at you as you walk inside is the Great Gallery from 1621. This gallery is made up of a series of sculptures across the front of the King’s Wing. These statues are of various Gods and notable historical leaders. They were made by Hans van Steenwinckel the Younger in Amsterdam and brought to Denmark by ship. On the right, under a small copper dome, is the entrance to the castle well, which you can still see behind a wrought iron gate.

Take note of the use of columns here and throughout the castle. Roman and Greek architecture profoundly influenced the Dutch Renaissance as can be seen in the use of columns as adornment. But unlike in Greek architecture, these columns and moulding are richly decorated and bas-reliefs are carved into any flat surface.

Clock Tower

On the left side, we can see the huge, clock tower, marked by golden clockfaces. The clock tower features a clock face on either side of the building, so that no matter where you were in the palace, you could look out and see the time. The dials of the clock end not in a point but in the shape of a star burst and are set against a backdrop of golden sun.

The church is located under the clock tower and it is perhaps for this reason that this tower is so richly decorated. This one wing was the only one to survive the horrific fires and therefore much of the restoration work was done to mirror these original designs. At the top of the clock tower is a golden spire with a horse and crown atop it.

Stained Glass

From the exterior courtyard, look up at the windows, and bay windows, which protrude from the castle walls. Each of these windows is sumptuously decorated with vibrant stained glass, another popular feature of Renaissance architecture. Everything from family crests to royal symbology and historical portraits are represented here in delicate glasswork.

The Rose Dining Room

Enter the central doorway to step for the first time into the interior of the castle. Once you pass through the admission gate, you enter the great Rose Room. This room on the lower level is a recreation of the great Dining Room of King Christian IV. The naming of this room as the “Rose Room” is a hint at the true nature of the goings-on at royal dinner parties. The Latin phrase sub rosa means “under the rose”, and is used in English to denote secrecy or confidentiality. This dining room was where the court could come and be themselves, away from the eyes of the public.

This room was severely damaged during the fire, but luckily, dozens of paintings were made of the interiors of the castle, which were used to recreate these rooms authentically.

Interior Ornamentation

One of my favourite parts of this room is the white stucco ceilings supported by six vaults which rest on free-standing pillars. In the centre of the extremely detailed ceiling are various golden monograms set in a sea of white stucco flowers and vines. The juxtaposition of the white ceiling and dark wood floors is a beautiful piece of architectural contrast.

The wallpaper in this room is especially interesting. It was made of an imitation leather material and covered in gilt to look as rich as possible. Like running your fingers along the spine of an ancient book which covers the entire room.

Throughout the castle, there are little displays featuring clothing from the various time periods that royals inhabited the castle. This gives you an idea of the kind of regalia that would be floating up and down the hallways of the castle when it was a bustling imperial residence.

Staircase

Head through the door marked 2nd floor, which leads you up the winding staircase. This passageway leads guests into the Chapel. As you walk you’ll pass hundreds of shields, emblazoned with the coat of arms of the houses of Denmark’s royal families. They are almost piled one upon the other, making you aware of the legacy that Denmark’s royal family left on the country. There are over 3,500 of these shields in the castle. 400 of them belong to the Order of the Elephant and the remaining 3,100 belong to the Order of Dannebrog. Because the staircases were spared from the fire, all the shields are still originals.

Chapel

Walking into the Chapel, your jaw practically drops right to the floor. The sparkle of the golden ceiling, the bright glimmer of the stained glass windows and the brilliant red pews together combine to create such an awe-inspiring image. The Chapel is one of the few original rooms in the palace, as it was also spared by the great fire that consumed the rest of the building.

Dutch Renaissance

The Chapel was built in 1617, right in the middle of the great Dutch Renaissance. Since the Renaissance was all about reflecting the architectural styles of ancient Rome and Greece, you’ll see here the powerful use of columns, repeated to create a long nave and two-storey gallery. The arches which connect the pillars are richly decorated with grisaille frescos. Grisaille is a painting technique that uses only shades of grey to imitate the looks of sculptures. It was a method of achieving a more luxurious look at half the cost.

The Chapel inside Frederiksborg Castle was for more than just the king’s private prayer roon. After 1648, the chapel was the place where the future kings and queens of Denmark were crowned and anointed. It truly was an almost godly interior.

The roof is the real show stopper here. The six-vaulted stucco ceiling is pouring with golden embellishments and rosettes along the vault ribs bloom like they are in the middle of summer sunlight. In between, there are delicately painted pink cherubs looking down on the faithful below.

Paintings decorate the walls of the upper level. These paintings are from the Danish royal family’s art collection. Each one depicting scenes from the bible, featuring virtues that would befitted feature kings and inspired their good nature.

The Organ

Just below the great golden ceiling, you’ll see the other gem of the Chapel, the great organ. It was built in 1610 by Esajas Compenius and it the oldest organ in Denmark! The organ was a gift to Christian IV in 1617 when the chapel was consecrated. Despite it’s proximity to the great fire, the original wooden pipes were preserved, something which is a rarity to see in organs, since many were modernized with metal pipes.

The organ is still operational and uses a manually driven blower to create a rich sound. It requires two people to play it; one to pump it and the other to play the keys. On either side of the organ are these beautifully carved statues holding the crests of the royal family of Denmark.

On the opposite side of the church, is a new set of organ pipes, installed in 1863. While these might not be as old as the previous ones, they are, in my opinion, much more beautiful. The metal pipes are surrounded in multicoloured carvings. Everywhere you look there is a little angel poking its head out from amongst the pastel-painted decorations.

The Altar

On the lower level of the chapel, the amazing treasures don’t stop. Head up to the front of the church where you’ll find the great altarpiece and pulpit. These were both installed in the early 17th century and are by the famous silversmith Jacob Mores. The altarpiece is made of silver and ebony, with gold touches just to make the entire piece feel like something truly holy.

Coats of Arms

Other than the paintings, on the walls, you’ll see more of the amazing Coats of Arms which we were introduced to on the way up the stairs. As mentioned before these are from the Order of the Danopole and the Order of the Elephant, the two chivalric orders of Denmark.

The Order of the Elephant is the highest rank someone could receive. The Order of the Elephant shields are significantly more detailed, with a blue shashes and commander’s cross in chains painted around the shield. Look closely and you’ll see that the chain links are actually tiny elephants connected together.

Coats of Arms of Heads of State

Coats of arms were also given to foreign heads of state. These were symbolic of great partnerships such as the ones gives to the allies of WWII. They were given to both President Eisenhower and Winston Churchill. I loved studying all the different house crests in the centre of the shields. Each one was so different from the other, and it felt like, through the symbolism therein, you could learn so much about a family you’ve never met.

The Oratory

Continuing along on the upper level of the Chapel, and head under a low archway into the King’s private prayer room, or Oratory. This darkened room was where the king would come to pray, away from the clamour of the court and the public. His chapel is decorated on all sides by amazing paintings from the New Testament. Although the original paintings were lost in the fire, these new ones were inspired by paintings from the time and evoke the idea of what the oratory once would have looked like.

The walls here are carved from rich nutmeg coloured wood, with fantastically detailed decorations in between the panels. In the centre of the room stands a great silver altar, much like the one in the chapel. This was designed by goldsmith Matthäus Wallbaum in 1600 and made prayer in this small room feel all the more grandiose.

My favourite part of this room is once again, the ceiling. Turn your head upwards and spot the various strangely shaped ebony carvings. Some look like blossoming rosettes and others appear to be spikes curving into horn-like shapes. They feel so unique and almost otherworldly, something you might not expect to see in a religious setting.

Valdemarsalen

The Valdemarsalen is a pale yellow room, featuring hunting regalia all over the walls. The room is named after Valdemar I of Denmark who ruled from 1146 to 1182. King Valdemar was a great ruler and it was partly due to him that Denmark saw its rise to power in the medieval period. This room features objects from his life in Denmark in medieval times. Richly carved wood was the most popular item and various pieces of furniture from this period have been collected here to give you an idea of what Valdemar’s quarters might once have looked like.

Otto Bache

This room also features several large scale paintings depicting scenes from the Middle Ages in Denmark. One of the most interesting is ‘The Conspirators Riding Away from Finderup after Murdering King Erik Klipping‘ by Otto Bache. The scene takes place in 1286 but was painted in 1882 and depicted one of the greatest royal murders of Danish history. The nobles of Denmark were angry that King Erik had enforced several policies that they did not approve of. But instead of just opposing them, they did the very medieval thing to do and conspired to murder him. They paid off one of his most trusted companions to keep them informed of the king’s whereabouts, and one night, when he was left unguarded, he was murdered by the noble’s hired assassin. Here they can be seen fleeing after being informed of their plots success.

Audience Chamber Privy Passage

To the left, you’ll see a door marked ‘Audience Chamber‘. Head through this private passage, which stretches out across the lake. The passageway to the Audience Chamber is perhaps even more beautiful than the Audience Chamber itself. The passageway and the Chamber were designed for King Christian V in the 1680s. During this period Baroque was the style which reigned supreme! The baroque period is characterized by light and shadow and most of all, drama! The stucco used throughout the passageway is adorned in plant life, another element of importance to the baroque period. You’ll see scrolling foliage and garlands of flowers everywhere you look.

On the walls of the passage, you’ll see landscape paintings by Josse de Momper. One of the most powerful images is of Venus by Petro Liben. She gestures towards the Audience Chamber as if inviting guests inside. On the ceiling of the Privy Passage you can see four images representing earthly elements; earth, air, fire and water.

The Audience Chamber

The Audience Chamber was designed in 1616. From here you have one of the most amazing views of the lake and surrounding baroque garden. This was the King’s private room, and he wanted the best view of his great palace and grounds. Like the Chapel, this room, being so separated from the rest of the castle, also survived the great fire!

On the walls throughout the room are portraits of Christian V and his family. The largest painting is of the king with his three sons, the future kings of Denmark. In this painting, they are dressed as Roman emperors. This was a popular fashion at the time to compare oneself to other great leaders in history but looks funny to see the almost dressed in costumes.

King Christian V’s motto

On the ceiling, is a great fresco of King Christian V’s motto “With Piety and Justice.” Hanging beneath it, over the small dining table, is a large golden chandelier featuring a jumping stag in the centre. Hunting was a great pastime of Kings and royalty, especially in their country manor homes.

Above the windows are paintings of significant battles, and the king’s triumph during the Scanian War. These images were something future Kings could look up at and be inspired by in moments of doubt or failure.

One of the more exciting parts of this room is a chair located in the corner. This chair might look a little odd, and this is because it’s a chair lift that can go from this room to the floor above, which contains the king’s private apartments, just like a modern-day elevator. The chair lift was installed when the king fell ill and found it challenging to walk up the stairs between the various floors.

Painted in the four corners of the ceiling are four becoming female figures which represent the four corners of the world. At the time Denmark had colonies in each of these places and the paintings were meant to reflect this position of power which Denmark held over the world.

Room 25

From the Audience Chamber, head back through the Valdermarsalen, into Room #25. If you are ever confused as to what room you’re inside, take a look at the numbers above the doorways as they are all marked. Hanging above one of the doorways is a huge family tree from 1570. The piece once hung in the old Sonderborg Castle Chapel but was moved here to decorate Frederiskborg after the fire. The furniture inside this room is all from the 16th century and features Gothic embellishments.

One important thing to note as you explore the rooms is that they are almost entirely lit by daylight. This little detail makes the rooms feel more authentic modern museums with artificial lights. The pieces inside would not have been designed to appear under such fluorescent lighting, and therefore, they look more natural with nothing but the sun to illuminate their beauty.

Room 26

Room #26 features items from the Danish Reformation Era. During this era, Christian III came to power and became head of the Danish church. To mark the importance of this period in history, a Danish translation of the Bible can be seen under a protective glass case which was one of the first of its kind in the Danish language.

Room 27

This pale blue room with a gorgeous star vaulted ceiling is dedicated to the reign of Frederik II. Hanging above the main wood dresser are two portraits, facing each other. This is King Frederik and Queen Sofia, who would have made this room their bedchamber. The rest of the room is filled with additional portraits of the bourgeois who attended court at this time. This was the first moment in history when paintings of non-royal members of the family were allowed to be made, so their depictions are especially important.

From this room, you can easily peek out the window, and see the courtyard below. Looking out the windows of the castle is a great way to orientate yourself as you walk through the maze of rooms inside.

Room 28

Room 28 is the Noble Portraits room. It features a collection of paintings of the nobles of the Danish court. The most famous person on these walls is Tycho Brahe, a famous astronomer from the 1600s. In the centre of the room is a large suit of armour, standing guard in front of the windows. The armour is a copy of that worn by Henrik Rantzau “the learned” who visited Jerusalem and Egypt in 1623 during the Crusades.

Room 29

Room 29 is painted bright blue and the golden paintings set against the walls simply beam against the natural sunlight. This was one of the original living rooms of Christian IV. He lived in the castle beginning in 1596 when he became king at the young age of 19. The first half of his reign was more prosperous than the second half when he was plagued with the disastrous Danish 30 years war.

The large painting above the dresser is of the king himself and surrounding him are images of his children and wives. Christian IV actually had three wives throughout his lifetime. Perhaps looking at his portrait you can decide for yourself if it was his looks or his wealth that drew all these ladies to him.

Room 30

Stepping into Room 30 feels like entering a more regal part of the castle. This room is sumptuously decorated. The painting on the wall depicts events from Christian IV’s life, and the decor inside this room is curated to reflect styles that would have been popularized during his lifetime. Along the wall is a HUGE painting of the coronation of Christian IV in 1596 made in 1887 by Otto Bache. 

The ceiling is covered in frescos. They stretch from end to end and are framed in giltwood carvings which make them even more elaborate and colourful. The frescos on the ceiling feature the story of the ancient legend of Gefion. Gefion was a fantastical goddess who drove an enormous plough driven by mythical oxen. The King of Sweden offered the goddess as much land as she was capable of ploughing in one day and one night in exchange for cultivating the island of Zealand out of Sweden. Here you can see her along with her great oxen.

Nikolaus Siebenhaar

In the corner of the room, behind a beautifully panelled set of windows, is an old astronomical clock from 1644. The clock was made by Nikolaus Siebenhaar from gold plated copper on a carved wooden base. The clock was called a tellurium. The tellurium and shows the time, date, moon phase and the position of the constellations. All of which were of great importance for astronomy and astrology which influenced the king’s decisions during this time.

Room 31

Room 31 is the Leonora Christina living room. The entire room is covered floor to ceiling in dark wood panelling. The room was inspired by the amazing works of Tycho Brahe and was given an astronomical theme. The ceiling is the most impressive feature covered in a painting of the zodiac symbols as they appear in their spacial constellations.

The large painting on the wall of a man and woman with a few small dogs at their feet is Princess Leonora Christina and her husband Corfitz Ulfeldt. Leonora’s husband committed treason against the king, Leonora’s brother. Leonora herself was sent to prison by her brother for her aid in the attempted plot.

Leonora was imprisoned in the Blue Tower in Copenhagen for 22 years. When she was finally released from captivity, she wrote a series of poems on an altar cloth about her life in prison, the true nature of royal life and all the scandals she was privy to while living in the castle—basically creating the first “exposed” article of all time. You can still see this piece of history on display here today.

Room 32

A collection of minature portraits occupies the corner tower room on this floor. These adorable cameos and tiny portraits were often worn by members of the court to show their allegiance to individual members of the royal family. This was of particular significance if one royal was thought to be attempting to oust the next. And if you wanted to show your support of one royal over another casually, this was a subtle way of doing it.

Room 34

From the minature portrait room, head back to room 30 and head upstairs to Room 34. This hallway leads you through to the second floor of the castle. The walls of the hallways here are littered in paintings. The most impressive of which is the ‘Storm of Copenhagen in 1659‘ by F.C Lund. It features the night that Copenhagen was attacked by the Swedes. As the siege wore on, one of the most famous quotes from the king’s as he defended the city was “I will die in my nest“. The Swedes were defeated and suffered over 500 deaths whereas the Danes managed to defend their city fiercely and only lost 14 brave men.

Room 35

Walking through these long hallways, turn into the grand bedroom of Frederik III in Room 35. The furniture in this room is all from the 1600s during the reign of Frederik III. Take special care to study the four-poster bed in the middle of the room. It’s incredible to see how small these beds were despite being for the absolute monarchs of the time. If you look closely at the crushed red velvet bedding, you’ll see how the head of the bed is raised slightly, since it was the custom at the time to sleep with your head above your body. The bedposts are giving particular attention with carvings of kings and queens as well as mythical creatures inlaid into the wood.

This room features the most amazing wood carvings. The ceiling itself is absolutely covered in carved panels. The same strange blossoming rosettes from the oratory can be seen here paired with brightly painted circular panels.

Room 36

Room 36 features more objects from the time of King Frederick III and Queen Sofia. The style of architecture and decor inside is of the baroque style. It is lavish and bordering on pompous. The furniture throughout the room is all exquisitely created from Germany, the Netherlands and France as the Danes. The reason the furniture was not locally made was that during the reign of Frederick III, trading across Europe had started to open up making the exchange of goods and materials more popular and fashionable. “Shop local” wasn’t nearly the trend in the 1600s. The furniture is even inlaid with pieces of ebony and ivory, a way of showing off wealth in every inch of the castle.

Along the walls in this room are portraits of the men who supported and aided the king in the 1600s. There were both noblemen and academics who helped lead the realm into glory.

On the ceiling of the room is a grandiose painting of Sol. Sol is the Nordic sun goddess who travels through the sky in a chariot pulled by two great horses. Sol is responsible for imparting everlasting life and is thought to have created the spark of life on earth.

The Angel’s Room

Room 37 is also called the Angel’s Room and walking in, there is no doubt as to why. It feels truly otherworldly. When Frederick III died, queen Sofia continued to live here in her widowhood. She took it upon herself to pour her grief into the decoration of the castle. She never stopped adding decorations and embellishments until her own death. This room was badly damaged in the fire but was restored to its former glory in 1859.

The Angel’s Room was often used for both huge banquets and small family dinners. Displayed in the centre of the room is a model of the dining table complete with plastic moulds of the meals and foods which the court and royal family would have eaten in the 17th century.

Great Ceiling

The great ceiling is painted with motifs inspired by the Doge’s Palace in Venice. The paintings in the centre are of King Frederick III on the throne surrounded by the four pillars of the Danish kingdom; the nobility, the clergy, the citizens and the peasantry. In the other paintings, are allegories of war and peace.

The room display two huge paintings of two of the most important events in Fredericks III’s reign. One of the paintings features the moment he inherited Copenhagen’s Royal Palace. After the Carl Gustav wars, Frederik III had a momentous town meeting in Copenhagen to solve the financial problems the country was facing after the war. The result of this meeting was the creation of absolute monarchy and the hereditary kingdom of Denmark.

Nyborg Fjord

The second painting features the naval commander Peder Bredal when he freed his frozen vessels out of Nyborg Fjord. The painting was made by Carl Neumann in 1883. Johan Carl Neumann was one of the most famous Danish marine painters. He had a way of capturing those moments at sea which helped shape the nation. If Bredal would not have been able to free his ships from the ice, the soldiers would have been both lost at sea during the tough winter and they would not have been able to join the forces on land to defend their kingdom.

A small set of stairs leads you from this room into the Great Hall. On either side of the archway leading up to the Great Hall are a set of winged creatures, beckoning you inside.

The Great Hall

The Great Hall was built for King Christian IV but was destroyed in the great fire. Since this room was such a showstopper there was a plethora of paintings and drawings done of the space used to faithfully recreate it. King Christian ruled Denmark from 1588 to 1648. His 59-year reign is the longest of Danish and of Scandinavian monarchs. Despite the wealth displayed in this room, during his reign, he instigated various wars that almost bankrupted the country.

This fairytale-inspired room was used for balls throughout Christians’ reign. The room is set directly above the Chapel and has the same dimensions as it as well. The Hall is also known as the ‘Hall of Knights‘ as the king would often host galas for members of his royal order here.

Great Hall Fireplace

On the side of the room is what looks like an ebony coloured canopy but is actually the great black marble fireplace. The actual fireplace is hidden behind a set of tapestries as it helps keeps the cold out. Inlaid on the black marble are beautiful scenes made from panels of pure silver. I can only imagine how gorgeous the silver would have looked in the light of the fire.

When I visited the castle, there were very few people in the palace. But as I wandered around the empty hall, a small group of school children came inside and began to dance in the huge empty room. They were so sweet and made me imagine what this room might have looked like filled with courtly men and women in their finery, dancing the night away. The rich marble floor beneath their feet glimmering under the chandeliers and their laughter brought the room to life!

From looking down at the floor, take your eyes upwards to the great ceiling carvings. The ceiling was recreated based on artists’ sketches before the fire. The ceiling looks like a treasure chest, piled high with golden coins and brightly coloured jewels.

Every inch, every centimetre of the ceiling is embellished in carvings and paintings. Angels flit about among orange trees, crowned rosettes, and beautiful swirling fillagree. Scenes set into the ceiling represented the various crafts of the Danish people, such as the paper mill, the printing press, and even the watchmaker. Surrounding these scenes are allegories of God’s attributes. A balance between the godly and the earthly delights.

Great Hall Tapestries

One of the most important pieces of art in the hall are woven tapestries. The tapestries depict the life of Christian IV and are copies of original tapestries found outside the castle, having been saved from the fires. The tapestries were made specifically for the museum to restore the look of the Great Hall.

Facing in on the hall are portraits of the members of the House of Glücksburg. The house of Glücksburg has been the Danish Royal Household since Christian IX in 1863. The current reigning queen, Margaret, is from their dynasty and keeps her family’s legacy alive today.

At the front of the room, under the most enormous golden chandelier, is the throne and king’s table. The throne is covered by a rich red velvet canopy with golden embroidery depicting Christian IX’s Danish monogram.

Gothic Globe Room

From the Great Hall, head back into the Angels Room and towards Room 39, which is located in the corner tower. This room also called the Gottorpske Himmelglobus or Gothic Globes room. The golden globe in the centre of the room was made for Frederik III. This celestial globe depicts the world view of Nicolaus Copernicus. Nicolaus Copernicus was a Renaissance-era mathematician and astronomer, who formulated a model of the universe that placed the Sun rather than Earth in the center o the universe. The entire piece took over three years to be completed in 1657.

Astronomical Designs

The sky is represented around the exterior and inside the sphere are tiny gold balls which are the earth and, the moon. The other planets are also represented by smaller silver balls inside. The sun is in the centre of all of this, represented by a large brass ball. Around the exterior of the sphere are these beautiful depictions of the zodiac symbols surrounded by astronomical constellations. But the piece is not just an art exhibit, each of the objects moves based on the 24-hour clock. The room also features portraits of court mathematicians, astronomers, librarians and the heads of the Art Chambers.

While the ceiling here is pure white, the stucco designs were made to reflect the presence of the celestial globe and also feature images of the zodiac symbols.

Room 40

Head back to Room 36 and continue from here to Room 40. In this room was have items from Christian V’s reign from 1670 to 1699. Christian V was the first king who was anointed in the palace. In the center of the room is a book with the page opened to the King’s Act of 1665 which was the legal basis upon which the Danish Monarchy was formed.

On the left side of the wall is a large portrait featuring Christian V in his fancy dress. Seeing his face both here and throughout the castle always makes me feel like he’s still watching over the palace even hundreds of years after his death.

This room also has one of the best view of the castle layout and baroque gardens outside.

Room 41

Room 41 features statesmen and artists from Christian V’s reign. Among them were the naval hero Niels Juel, baroque poet Thomas Kingo and merchant turned chancellor, Peder Schumacher.

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Room 42

Room 42 marks the transition between the 1600s and the 1700s. This period was marked by the Baroque style. Baroque and Rococo are my two favourite stylistic periods as they are synonymous with ostentatiousness and grandeur. Instead of wallpaper decorating the walls, they were covered in huge woven tapestries. These tapestries depicted scenes of Alexander the Great entering Babylon and the battle of the Persian kings. They were fantastical depictions of the greatest rulers from history. The tapestries were made in Louis XIV’s factory in Paris and were made by the very best weavers around the world.

The beautifully carved and upholstered canopy bed was made in Paris around 1724. They called this style of bed a “parade bed”. It was made for Christian V when he married Christine Catherine von Holstein in 1724. You can see their monograms, CDS and CCH, carved into the bedframe. My very favourite part of this bed is the silver fireguard which sits in front of the bedroom to protect it from the sparks of the fireplace. It’s shaped into a heart and feels like it warms the room, even without a fire.

Room 43

Room 43 is centred around the large painting of King Frederick IV. Frederick IV reigned from 1699 to 1730. Frederick didn’t have the best time ruling the kingdom. During his reign, Copenhagen was struck with both the great plague of 1711 and the great fire of 1728, which destroyed most of the capital. Wanting to escape Copenhagen, Frederick spent much of his time building onto Frederickborg Palace. While Frederick wasn’t much of an academic, he loved art and architecture and it is perhaps for this reason that the castle became so magnificent. Chinese imports were becoming all the rage in this time and many of these oriental objects can be seen in this room.

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Room 44

Head into the corner tower where you’ll find room 44. Here you’ll find portraits of a number of prominent figures of Frederik’s IV’s reign. But what is most interesting to study in this room is the golden leather wallpaper which has been applied to the walls. This leather wallpaper appears throughout the castle but is most notable here both for its size and grandeur.

Room 46 – The Princess Wing

A long pastel pink hallway runs down this side of the castle, with various rooms extending off of it. This area of the castle is called the ‘Princess Wing‘. Most of the objects and paintings in this area are from the reign of Frederik IV and Christian VI from the first half of the 18th century. The Rococo style began in France in the 1730s as a reaction against the more formal and geometric Style of Louis XIV. Rococo dressers line the hallway, marked by their curves and sculptural moulding.

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Room 47

The pale blue room decorated with a myriad of the golden frames is from the time of Christian VI who ruled from 1730 to 1746. Various paintings in this room feature Queen Sofia Magdalene and her children.

In addition to the series of paintings, there are a set of chairs in here which are original from the court of Christian VI. There is also a cupboard containing an original Meissen porcelain collection. Meissen porcelain was one of the most popular items to show off your status at the time. Take note of the punch bowl in the shape of a bishop’s hat made in Copenhagen.

Room 48

Continue along through the rooms and head into Room 48. This light rose coloured room contains more objects from the 18th century. Two portraits of Frederick V by C.G. Pilo cover the walls. Pilo was responsible for most of the rococo designs throughout the castle during this period. He was the king’s personal stylist and interior decorator.

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The furniture in here is much lighter than in previous generations. Patterns are no less opulent but the subtle tones make it feel less busy. There is definitely an air of elegance here over opulence here.

Room 50

Room 50 contains a portrait of a rather turbulent figure in the royal household. During Christian VII‘s reign his wife was having an affair with a man named Struensee. Struensee was the king’s doctor, in addition to being the lover of the queen. Struensee used his influence over the king to control the kingdom as he saw fit. Finally, when the King discovered this treachery he had the doctor executed for crimes against his majesty. His portrait still hangs in the castle, perhaps as a reminder to those who might attempt to do the same.

Room 52

Room 52 features dignified furniture in the style of Louis XVI. The canopy sofa with a gold plate actually pulls out to be a double bed. Proves how the castle was starting to modernize with the times. The tableware in here is another gorgeous example of the style of Rococo flatware with botanical imagery all over it which was a popular icon on the style.

Room 54

Exiting back into the hallway, you’ll see that the walls have changed colours from the pastel blush pink, to mustard yellow. Along the walls are vintage pieces of furniture from the 1800s. But the most impressive part of this corridor is the gold plated ceiling. Inlaid with images of roman leaders, they look almost like giant coins glued onto the ceiling.

Room 55

Room 55 is one of the plainer coloured rooms but the sheer number of paintings on the wall makes it no less interesting. On the wall opposite window, are two grand pictures of the Battle of Copenhagen in 1801, depicting the vanquished Danish fleet. Despite this great military loss, the early 1800s were a boom time for the Danes. It was a golden age for art, literature, and science. Portraits on the wall reflect the various men and some women who helped shape this golden age. In the room is a set of Danish Imperial living room furniture, covered in rich red leather, which belonged to the household of Frederick VI.

Room 57, the Gable Room

The brightly painted red room in the back of the Princess Wing is called the Gable Room. This room is full of portraits of poets and artists from the Danish Golden Age. You’ll find pictures of actress Johanne Luise Heiberg, poet H.C. Andersen, and W. Marstrand. This change in who is portrayed in castle portraits, from the royals to portraits of celebrities, shows the shift in power dynamics during this time. The painting of actress Johanne Luise Heiberg was commissioned by her husband Johan Ludvig Heiberg. It was painted in the middle of the crisis that would lead to their eventual breakup. Her stern face clearly reflects her cross feeling about sitting for the portrait with a man she no longer was the biggest fan of.

The chandelier in the center of the room is one of the most impressive designs, with large round orbs hanging from it, it looks almost like a mythical fruit tree. It’s a big departure from the traditional chandelier designs throughout the rest of the castle and is another example of the change in both power and design during this era.

Room 58

In the last room, Room 58, you can visit a bust of the great linguist Rasmus Kristian Rask. Rask travelled the world studying Icelandic grammar and Oriental languages and is considered one of the founders of modern linguistics. Beside the statue of Rask is a stately telescope design from the mid-1800s. It was once used by Johan Ludvig Heiberg when he visited the palace.

Room 61

Take the stairs down to Room 61 back on the 1st floor. This room is commanded by a huge painting of the Constitutional Assembly from October 1484. This is when the king gave up his monarchical powers and when the first democratic election in Denmark took place. In this painting, you can see famous politicians from Danish history.

The ceiling in this room is once more sumptuously decorated with wood carvings and paintings of naval battles inlaid in the center.

Room 63

Room 63 is dedicated to the Three Year War which raged from 1848-1850. Denmark was fighting against the Germans, who had taken their land to the south. Two large paintings on the wall are of the greatest heroes of this war which lead Denmark to victory.

The ceiling styles in this era are definitely something to behold, as they appear to be an art gallery all unto themselves.

Room 64

Room 64 was actually a part of the museum created for not crown royalty, but for the great poet Adam Oehlenschlager. On the 100th anniversary of his death, the museum collected objects and paintings of the great Nordic poet and dedicated this room to his memory.

Room 65

Room 65 features images from the war of 1864. Prussia and Austria both attacked Denmark during this time. The war ended only when Denmark agreed to hand over parts of their land to Austria but managed to hold onto the small island of Ærø, which remained Danish. Ærø is my favourite spot in Denmark so I can see why that place would have been so important for them to hold onto.

The ceiling in this room features a large central painting depicting Jupiter and Juno. Juno and Jupiter are husband and wife and considered to be the King and Queen of the gods. They are often seen in Royal residences, as the royals are thought to be their earthly counterparts. Juno is the goddess of marriage, and childbirth and Jupiter was the god of the sky and thunder.

Room 66

This room is dedicated to the businessmen of the 19th century who helped move the Danish economy along. Agriculture, the dairy industry, shipyards, railways and breweries were booming and the various men in this room had a large part in their success.

Room 67

In this room, we see images of the Glucksborg families once more. Upon the death of Frederick VII in 1863, the throne passed to Christian IX who was a member of the Glucksborg family, and this was when their reign would commence. The furniture in this room is the most modern, all coming from the 19th and 20th centuries.

Room 68

The last room to study before heading outside is Room 68, which is dedicated to the memory of Brygger Jacobsen, who founded the museum which is now Fredericksborg Palace. Brygger Jacobsen, continued the legacy of his father’s brewer, Carlsberg Brewery, which is still to this day one of the most popular beers not only in Denmark but around the world.

Mønttårn tower

After you’ve finished touring the castle, head outside, around the castle over towards the baroque gardens. To enter the gardens you’ll enter through the Mønttårn tower, which contains the Audience we saw inside. This part of the castle was built in 1616 in high-renaissance style.

Study the swinging gables and gorgeous bay windows. The exterior is decorated in sculptures of Venus and Mars and musicians.

Baroque Gardens

Walk underneath the archway and across the stone bridge towards the Baroque gardens. The baroque gardens which surround the castle are designed in the typical style of the age. It was created by architect J. C. Krieger in 1725. Baroque gardens during this time were designed in a symmetrical pattern and used hedges and bushes to create an outer structure.

Within the lower portion of the gardens, you’ll find the hedges are carved into unique patterns which form of the Royal monograms. These monograms are of Frederik IV, Frederik V, Christian VI and Margrethe II. These are all the monarchs who ruled within the walls of this castle.

Toward the far end of the garden, off to the left is a series of small lakes, a bathhouse and an English style garden. This is also sometimes called the Romantic garden as it presents the uncurated and raw beauty of nature in contrast to the highly manicured and planned structure of the baroque garden.

The Little Ferry

After finishing wandering the incredible gardens, head over to the ferry dock to catch a ride around the castle lake. The ferry captains are the most charming old men and their cheerful banter was one of the best parts of the journey on the ferry.

The trip across the lake takes 30 minutes and costs DKK 30 ($4.50 USD) for adults and DKK 10 ($1.50 USD) for children. The last ferry departs the castle at 5 pm in the summer and 4 pm in the autumn so be sure to catch it before then. In the wintertime, the ferry is closed since the lake often freezes over.

Boating away from the castle, you have the most incredible view of the entire palace from on the water. The peaceful lull of the waves and the picturesque red brick against the bright blue sky is almost so beautiful its hard to imagine that this place is real and not just a fairytale.

This brings us to the end of our tour! The ferry boat will let you off on the other side of the lake, where you can wander around the village or head back to the train station to catch the train back to Copenhagen. While watching, the countryside fade back into the city, think back to all the wondrous things we saw at the Palace. What was your favourite room or treasure you discovered? Let me know if you’ve ever visited Frederiskborg Castle or what you’re most looking forward to seeing on your first visit!

Happy Travel Adventurers

The post Discover Denmark’s Amazing Hidden Gem: A Guide to Frederiksborg Castle, the Best Day Trip from Copenhagen first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Romeo + Juliet in Mexico City

When I was first looking up information on Chapultepec Castle I almost dropped my phone when I read it was featured in Baz Lurhman‘s 1996 film ‘Romeo + Juliet‘! It was used in the film as the site for Juliet Capulet’s mansion. In fact, much of the introduction of the film was shot in Mexico City. The aerial shot of ‘Verona’ is located just north of here in the Zona Rosa. And the unforgettable shot of the statue of Christ was shot along the Paseo de la Reforma. They simply removed the Ángel de la Independencia monument and digitally replaced it with a statue of Jesus.

Even various hotel and bank exteriors along Paseo de la Reforma were used to stand in for the Capulet and Montague headquarters. As a 90s kid, who grew up on that movie this was the discovery of a lifetime. This only made me more delighted to get to see it in person!

Let me say first off, I LOVED exploring the castle. But a lot of the detailed information was difficult to understand as most of the signage was in Spanish. I’m someone who loves to know everything about history and I don’t just travel places for the aesthetics alone. So I whipped up this post, full of my own research, to help others guide their way through the castle.

Guide to Chapultepec Castle

1. How to Get there
2. Hours and Admission
3. Accessibility
   • Wheelchair Access
4. Is there Food Inside Castle?
5. History of Chapultepec Castle
6. Guide to Exploring Chapultepec Castle
   • The Castle Residence Tour – Carriage Hall
   • Introductory Room
   • Reading Room Terrace
   • Games Room
   • Smoking Room
   • Dining Room
   • Butler’s Pantry
   • Carlota's Sitting Room
   • Carlota's Bathroom
   • Carlota’s Bedroom
   • Tea Room
   • Gobelins Room
   • Agreement Hall
   • Courtyard Garden
   • Lions Staircase
   • Terrace
   • Porfirio Diaz Bedroom
   • Stained Glass Gallery
   • Hall of Ambassadors
   • Tower

How to Get there

The castle is situated at the top of Chapultepec Hill, just past the entrance of Chapultepec Park. When you look at GoogleMaps, it’s hard to make out any of the elevations around the area. That means, if you don’t enter through the official front gates, it’s super easy to get lost.

Uber

The best place for an Uber to drop you off point is in front of the Estela de Luz monument. From here, it’s just a short walk towards the castle entrance. There are various signs along the way to help you find your way.

Metro

If you’re arriving via the metro, take the subway to Chapultepec Station on Line 1. Exit towards the Monument to the Niños Heroes, where you’ll find the ramp which leads towards the museum.

Hours and Admission

You need to buy your admission tickets at the booth at the bottom of the hill. Be sure to do this BEFORE you head up the ramp, which leads to the castle. There is nowhere at the top of the hill to buy tickets. The walk is fairly long and steep, and on a hot day, it would be torturous to have to head all the way back down. We saw dozens of people that had this problem and their dejected faces were so sad. So be sure you don’t make this same mistake. The line for the tickets moves very quickly but if you plan on visiting at the absolute peak of the season you should arrive early to beat the crowds.

Hours: 9 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Sunday. Closed on Mondays.
Admission: 85 pesos (US$4) per person. Tickets are free for children under 13 and seniors over 60 years old. Teachers and students with valid credentials and people with disabilities also can get in free.
Be sure to bring some cash as often the machines are often down and tickets are cash only.

Accessibility

After purchasing your ticket, you need to climb the winding hill that encircles the palace. While the pathway is mostly smooth, for anyone with mobility issues, the incline can be tiring. The walk is especially difficult due to the high elevation in Mexico City. It can be slightly harder to catch your breath. Take it slow; there’s no need to rush. In fact, the walk up the hill provides some incredible views across the park and the city. Make sure you drink plenty of water. Even on what might feel like a cooler day, you still can get dehydrated just from the elevation.

Wheelchair Access

If you have a mobility aid or wheelchair, the museum has ramps and accessible spaces. They also offer special tours for children and adults with disabilities. Just email difusion.mnh@inah.gob.mx for more information. They also provide loaner wheelchairs if you feel like you might require one for this visit. You can view their accessibility plan for the palace here. There is access to an elevator at the bottom of the hill for people who require it. So you don’t need to worry about having to go up the long winding pathway. Don’t hesitate to ask any other staff members about additional accessibility inquiries.

Is there Food Inside Castle?

NO! One of the biggest surprises to me was that not only was there no food or drinks available inside the castle, but you also weren’t even allowed to bring anything with you either. Not even water! Bugs are apparently a big problem at the castle. So they do everything they can to prevent critters from getting in by banning food and drink inside the castle. I had planned my day around having lunch at the palace, so I was in for a real unfortunate surprise when I arrived to find that there was no cafe. I was starving by the time we left and ran to the nearest street food vendor at the bottom of the hill! Don’t be like us, and be sure to come on a full stomach! Drink the rest of your water before you enter the gates, or they will make you throw it away.

History of Chapultepec Castle

The word ‘Chapultepec‘ comes from the old Nahuatl word which means at grasshopper’s hill. Throughout the castle, you’ll find many different images of grasshoppers paying tribute to the castle’s Aztec name. In the Aztec period, this hilltop was considered sacred. Archeological digs around the area have uncovered ceramics and objects relating to sacred burials. Many of the Aztec rulers were placed to rest here on the hill.

Chapultepec hill was considered scared both due to its life-giving waterways and being a place of protection. It was a defensive location as it looked out over Lake Texcoco. Lake of Texcoco is no longer here as the waters were drained by the Spanish upon their invasion in the 16th century.

Moctezuma II ordered that a palace be built under his name atop the hill. It was the first “royal” summer palace to be built here and a tradition that would continue into post-colonial times. Netzahualcoyotl, one of the monarchs under Moctezuma, oversaw the construction of this palace and also planted the cypress trees. Cypress trees were very sacred to the Aztecs, and the grove he built is still there today.

The Sacred Water

As you walk up the hill towards the castle, you’ll pass by a large pond carved into the side of the hilltop. This is to commemorate the springs which once appeared all around Chapultapec castle. It was said that Moctezuma fished in these springs. To ensure the plentifulness of the fish, Moctezuma would appease the water god Tlaloc by burying treasure around the waterways. To this day, no treasure has ever been found. However, treasure hunters still love to explore the area in hopes of discovering ancient riches.

In addition to fishing, these springs were also thought to purify any of those who would drink from them. When the Spanish invaded, they demolished all the natural springs and drained the surrounding lakes. Thinking only of expansion and not of the damage they were doing to their natural resources. The sacred water was gone and many people call diarrhea some tourists get from drinking this piped-in water “Moctezuma’s Revenge.”

Post-Colonial History

Chapultepec Castle, as we see it today, was initially built as the summer home for the Viceroys of Mexico. The term “Viceroy” comes from the French word “roi,” meaning king. As such, these men were the Vice-Kings of Mexico. The role came into being after the invasion of the Spanish. Viceroys were sent to rule the lands and control the armies. In 1530 the emperor Carlos Quinto decreed that the forest of Chapultepec was now the property of the City of Mexico. The Viceroys and their court would use the park as their playground for hunting and fishing. But the new court needed a palace to rest their heads.

Chapultepec Military History

Construction on the new palace started in 1725 under the watchful eye of Viceroy Bernardo de Gálvez. Before he could see the interiors finished, the castle was abandoned during the Mexican War of Independence in 1810. For years it remained dormant until it was purchased by the Military Academy in 1833. The academy transformed the palace into a military college. During this time, a few notable architectural additions were made. The most noticeable of which is the watchtower, which pops its head up above the rest of the building. Cadets from the college would spend their time here doing shooting exercises and military activities. It’s wonderful to imagine how these cadets would have felt studying in such an important place. Defending the city as the Aztecs before them would have.

On September 13, 1847, the Americans attacked Mexico City. The military students took arms and tried valiantly to protect their college from the onslaught. Many of these young men died trying to defend the academy. Eventually, the castle was taken by the United States army. But this would not be the end of the story for the Mexican military in Chapultepec Castle. In 1847, after growing their numbers, a newly strong Mexican army stormed Chapultepec, winning it back once more.

Emperor Maximilian I

The most notable resident of the palace was Emperor Ferdinand Maximilian I and his consort Empress Carlota. The two lived here from 1864-1867 and despite their short time here, they made a huge impact. Maximilian was from the Habsburg dynasty and put into power by the French leader Napoleon III. Napoleon III invaded Mexico in December 1861 in his attempt to add Mexico to the French empire.

Maximilian and his wife took possession of Chapultapec castle, but when they arrived, they were shocked at what they found. The villa was in ruins. It wasn’t anything like the European palaces they were used to. They spent their first nights here sleeping on a pool table since all the beds were filled with bugs. Almost all the windows had been broken and smashed during the American war. After a sleepless first night in their new home, they went got to work renovating the building.

European Influences

The most impressive architectural features of the castle were built under their watchful eye. Maximilian wanted his palace to have pride of place in the city. He was enamoured with the grand boulevards of Europe, like the Champs-Élysées in Paris. He ordered a grand promenade to be built that would connect the castle entrance to the rest of Mexico City. This would become the grand Paseo de la Reforma. Despite not being a native of Mexico, Maximilian adored the city and called it his home. He was quoted as saying, “In moments of difficulty… nothing had so much power to cheer and strengthen him as the wonderful harmony of this view.”

Only a few years into his position in Mexico City, Maximilian and the French army were run out of the country. Mexico was on the verge of becoming an independent state. The newly elected Mexican president gave Maximilian the chance to flee back to his home country. But Maximilian’s mother told him she would rather see him die with dignity in Mexico rather than come home a coward. So Maximilian and the loyal members of his house were executed by a firing squad in Querétaro. Carlota, Maximilian’s wife, was allowed to return to Europe. However, she was devastated by the grief of losing not only her home but also her husband and died shortly thereafter.

19th Century History

In the 19th century, the castle became the main residence of the President of Mexico, Porfirio Díaz. Diaz lived here from 1877 to 1910. He and his wife were responsible for the elegant French decor of the interior of the palace. Diaz was, surprisingly enough for someone responsible for the rejection of the French empire, obsessed with french style. He loved La Belle Époque and the French Neo-Rococo designs. He brought items from all over Europe to furnish this castle in the middle of Mexico City.

Diaz loved France so much that after a failed coup during the 1910 election, he fled to Paris. He was attempting to escape execution and felt he would be most at home there. He died in Paris, only five years later. The last president to live inside the castle was President Lázaro Cárdenas in 1939. Lázaro decided the castle should not only be a treasure to be admired by those in power. He gave the palace back to the city and the people of Mexico City. Transforming it into the museum we see today.

Guide to Exploring Chapultepec Castle

The building itself is divided into two sections; the Museum of Anthropology (located inside the old military academy) and the royal palace residence. This guide focuses on the palace section but we also have a guided tour of the Museum of Anthropology if you’re interested in that.

NOTE: You cannot simply go in and out of the palace area. The entrance is through the carriage hall, and once you are inside, you need to follow the designated pathway. The exit of the castle residence area is heavily guarded. There is no backtracking. I found this out the hard way. If you leave the residence you cannot just go back in through the back gate. You need to walk through the entire complex all over again.

The Castle Residence Tour – Carriage Hall

The first room you enter is the Carriage Hall. Carriages were the primary mode of transportation to and from the castle during its heyday in the 18th century. This area of the palace was originally not as beautifully decorated. It was more like a storage garage for the carriages when they were not in use. Take notice of the large arched doorway. It was required to be sized to these proportions in order to get the carriages in and out easily.

Today, the carriage hall is decorated with large paintings of the various famous men from the history of Chapultepec Castle. Walk up to each of them to see who you can recognize from the history we just read through. It’s always nice to put a face to the name. From these portraits, I feel like you can learn a little bit more about their personalities.

While the carriages do have a substantial European flair, there are always uniquely Mexican elements that have been added. On the most elaborate carriage in the centre of the room, you can see the Mexican crest painted on the side. Look for the eagle perched on a nopales cactus with a snake in its mouth. This is the emblem of Mexico City.

Introductory Room

Stepping through the doors which lead out of the Carriage Hall, you come into the Introductory Room. The Introductory room was actually once used as the palace’s bowling alley! Originally it was an extension of the room next door; the games room. Once you know this piece of information, the elongated dimensions of the room start to make sense. The walls of the introductory room are covered in art nouveau-style decor. The golden plaster ornamentation is shaped into curvy vegetal forms popular in the 20th century.

Today, the room is used to introduce guests to the people who lived in the palace. And what their lives looked like while they lived inside these walls. Objects in the glass cases along the wall hold jewellery, clothing, medals and coins.

On the wall upon entering, you can see two portraits in circular golden frames. They depict President Benito Juarez and his wife, Margarita Maza. On the opposite wall to these portraits is a glass case holding a fancy, general’s gala jacket inside. It was once worn by Juan Almonte, who served as marshal of the empire in the 1860s. In the case is also a large sword cast in bronze. Atop the hilt of the sword is an eagle, the symbol of the Mexican nation, with its wings spread wide. Always ready for an attack.

Mexico Wreaths

Further down the hall, you come to a wide glass case containing several gold and silver laurel wreaths. There were given to President Benito Juarez in recognition of his efforts in creating an independent Mexican state. Several of these wreaths were once laid on his graves at the anniversary of his birth or his death.

Behind the wreaths is a large painting with the image of the coat of arms of Mexico upon it. Surrounding the eagle are a series of allegorical symbols. She is perched atop the rock with the cactus growing from the stone. A dead snake hangs in her beak. The eagle crest is surrounded by laurel wreaths. Wrapped around the wreaths is a golden necklace of the Royal Order of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Crowning the crest is a headdress with seven feathers. Each one represents one of the seven Nahuatl tribes that formed the Aztec nation that would become Mexico City. They were the Xochimilca, Tlahuica, Acolhua, Tlaxcalteca, Tepaneca, Chalca, and Mexica. On either side of the crown are a pair of golden sceptres and further down a golden set of arrow quivers. The royal coat of arms is surrounded in a ribbon of red, white and green. It displays the motto of the country “religion, independence and union.”

Reading Room Terrace

Ferdinand Maximilian I was a smart young man. Despite being flung far afield from his home in Austria, he tried to make Mexico City his own private oasis. Something Maximilian loved was to read and write outdoors. When rebuilding the palace, he had huge terraces added to the palace. This allowed him ample space to sit outside where he could look out upon the valley below. Here, he would read and write to his heart’s content. Mexico, unlike his birthplace of Austria, had far better weather, and he wanted to enjoy every minute of that.

All of the rooms on the first floor each open up onto the terrace. This benefited the residents in two ways. The first was it allowed for natural air conditioning. But it also provided access from any room inside to the incredible views across the city. Today, the doors that open out to the terrace also give visitors a peak inside.

Games Room

The castle was not just a place for state business. Long days entertaining foreign dignitaries could get pretty dull. It was pretty common to have an elaborate games room built inside these palaces. It would bring some fun back into the lives of these displaced aristocrats. Here they would take part in competitive bowling, cards, chess, badminton and more. The tapestries that adorn the room depict scenes of frivolity. Young noblemen can be seen playing games dressed in the finest fashions of the day.

Smoking Room

Beside the games room is the Smoking room. Deep red velvet damask wallpaper and rich lacquered tables make this room feel so luxurious. Smoking rooms were all the rage in Europe, as tobacco began to be imported from the east. The room is decorated with tall urns, of various sizes. Each one of which would have contained the precious dried tobacco leaves. These were all gifts to the Viceroys, from everywhere from China to Japan and even the Netherlands.

After a long state dinner, the women would retire to the living room, and the men would come here to smoke the finest cigars and tobacco. They could talk politics over a fine glass of liquor. And thanks to the open-air terrace, the room wouldn’t always be thick with smoke. Ebony encrusted furniture, presented by the Chinese ambassadors, makes the entire room feel like you were being transported. Like entering a country miles away.

Dining Room

The dining room, I think, is the finest room on the first floor. The very first thing I noticed when we peered through the doors was the incredible fireplace mantle. The wood carving feature two gorgeous half-naked women called caryatid. They are located on either side holding up the scones flanking the fireplace.

A caryatid is a sculpted female figure serving as architectural support. Taking the place of a column or a pillar. In between the two caryatids, carved on the chimney, are a variety of fruits and vegetables. Each one is representative of Mexico’s diverse agriculture and richness of the country. One can only imagine how romantic it was have looked at twilight. Lit only by these fixtures and hundreds of candles along the table.

It was President Díaz, who commissioned the decoration featured in the room. The fine wooden decorations were all made by the artist Pedro Téllez Toled. Cedar, mahogany, metal and marble are all are used in abundance to create a room that feels as grand in appearance. The host wanted their guests to feel like they were entering the finest European palace, as they walked into the Chapultepec dining room.

The room was designed in the French style of Louis XV and Louis XVI. Louis XV’s style featured curvy, art nouveau elements while Louis XVI featured neoclassical and baroque themes. These tended to focus on mythological elements such as the use of the caryatids. The art nouveau elements can be seen in the floral carved into the wooden cabinets and ceiling tiles. These highlight acanthus leaves, grapes, strawberries, artichokes, apples and pears. The backs of the dining room chairs each feature embroidery of animals such as birds, fish, wolves and lambs.

Butler’s Pantry

Servants were a key part of daily life in the castle. The servants kept things running and in a household as big as this, even their quarters needed to look majestic. Although the basement was their primary residence and workspace, there were a few areas on the top floors dedicated to the staff. One of which was the butler’s pantry. This room contained a small elevator that would be used to bring food up from the basement to the dining room. Along the wall is a beautiful selection of china and glassware from the royal collection. Each piece is highlighted inside a stunningly carved wooden pantry cabinet.

Carlota’s Sitting Room

Carlota Amelia, princess of Belgium, married Emperor Maximilian when she was only 17 years old. But Carlota came from a long family line of kings and queens who knew their place. She understood that to be a sovereign sometimes meant leaving your home country. But not only that, it meant adopting a new country as your homeland. Carlota did exactly this and studied a great deal about Mexican culture before she arrived. She even changed her name from the native Charlotte to Carlota to better fit in in Mexico society.

The Virgin of Guadalupe

In her sitting room, which you can still view today, you can see elements of the Mexican Catholic culture. Carlota was a devote Christian, and since Mexico was a fiercely religious country, she felt immediately comforted by these shared beliefs. Throughout her apartments, you can see how she loved to fill her home with religious iconography. The most beautiful of these pieces in this room is the minature bust of mother Mary, dressed in gold-embroidered fabrics. Above her is a large painting of St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City. But to the left of the image of the Vatican is a small painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe. The Virgin of Guadalupe is often referred to as the Mexican Mother Mary. Always identifiable by her blue cloak behind a radiating blast of sunlight.

Carlota’s Bathroom

Carlota’s bathroom is one of the rooms which has remained almost untouched for a century. In the centre of the room is a giant bathtub made from a single-block marble. One can only imagine it would have been pretty difficult to move such a heavy piece of marble. Perhaps this was the reason the room hasn’t changed much? Behind the tub are a series of intricate tiles, painted with peonies and cherry blossoms. These were imported from China along with various other Chinese porcelain, which can be found in the room.

Carlota’s Bedroom

The decoration of the palace during Maximilian’s reign almost bankrupted the country. He was obsessed with importing expensive furnishings from Europe along with tapestries, carpets, dishes, tiles and more! Looking inside Carlota’s bedroom, one can see the opulence of their taste. Everything in the room feels like it was made custom just for this space. They even have monogrammed lettering on the iron bed frame. The turquoise blue theme of the room spills into every piece of furniture and all the textiles. It feels like an ocean wave, swallowing you up.

On the bed’s headboard, you can see a golden medallion featuring the coat of arms of Mexico. On either side of the crest are two golden lions. Blending the Mexican symbols with the Austrian lions.

Tea Room

Beside Carlota’s bedroom is her tea room, where she should retire after a long day with her ladies in waiting. It might surprise you to learn that Carlota’s most trusted ladies-in-waiting were from important Mexican families. She chose this instead of bringing European ladies with her. This was once more due to her wanting to assimilate with the people she was destined to rule. Maximilian trusted his wife so implicitly that anytime he left the country on business, he didn’t hesitate to hand the reins of government over to her. She cared so deeply for the wellbeing of her new country he knew it was in good hands with her.

Gobelins Room

The most impressive room on the first floor is the Gobelins Room. Staring back at you from any of the walls are portraits of Maximilian and Carlota. Painted in different periods of their life. Despite having only lived in the palace for a short period, these portraits allow us to feel like they are still a part of the castle today.

Two of the largest pieces of furniture in the room are two great pianos. One French and one English. Both of them belonged to Maximilian and his wife. They were each great fans of music and filled their home these instruments.

Hidden Rooms

Behind a set of doors at the end of the hall is a hidden elevator. This elevator was once used to bring people from the bottom of the hill up into the castle.

Agreement Hall

After the castle became the primary residence of the president, there needed to be an official meeting room built inside. This was where the President could receive members of his cabinet. The Agreement Hall was designed in the early 20th century. The green velvet tabletops and portraits of past presidents on the walls make the entire room feel very presidential. The portraits feature historical figures such as Presidents Madero, Carranza, Obregon, Calles Gil, Rubio, Rodriguez and Cardenas.

Waiting Room

Just beside the Agreements Hall is a small waiting room. Two mahogany carved chairs sit on either side of an enormous clock in the centre. On either side of the clock are two large brass sculptures of the eagle of Mexico City. Before being given an audience with the president, guests would wait in here before being admitted into the agreement hall.

Courtyard Garden

Before heading up to the second floor, take a minute to walk around the small courtyard garden. The hedges and fountain wrap around the front of the palace and the outer balcony terrace looks out over the city. In the centre of the garden is the Grasshopper fountain. The bronze grasshopper statue in the fountain is symbolic of the Aztec name for the hilltop. The sculpture was made by Luis Albarran y Pilego in 1924.

Hero Children of the Battle of Chapultepec

Surrounding the grasshopper fountain are six sculptures of young men dressed in military garb. Each one represents one of the cadets who died defending the castle during the battle against the Americans. The power of their heroism for defending their school lives on through these depictions. Most of their faces were artistic interpretations with the exception of Juan Escutia. We knew what he looked like the artist could work off a photograph to sculpt him exactly. Juan is seen holding the Mexican flag in his arms. Juan’s death was the most powerful images of the battle. When they found his body it was said he wrapped himself in the flag before jumping to his death.

Lions Staircase

In 1878, the terrace needed to be expanded to accommodate the new National Astronomical, Meteorological and Magnetic Observatory. Therefore a second floor was built to accommodate for these new buildings. Later, when Porfirio Díaz moved in, he remodelled this upper level to create a new set of presidential rooms. But he also wanted to design a regal staircase, that reflected the grandiosity of his chambers.

Lion’s Staircase

The Lion’s Staircase was built with bright white Carrara marble to contrast the deep brass of the railings. On either side of the staircase, two large marble lions guard the entrance. The lions were based on the neoclassical lion statues, that guard Pope Clement XIII’s mausoleum in Saint Peter’s Basilica. The sleeping lion on the left represents peace and tranquillity. The one on the right with its eyes open represents the safeguarding of the castle.

Stained Glass Staircase

In 1915, the staircase was remodelled on the instructions of President Venustiano Carranza. Prior to Carranza, the staircase was open to the elements. He came up with the idea of adding in the stained glass panels to protect the stairwell from cold, the rain and even just from the bugs!

They employed famed artists Jorge Enciso, Alberto Garduno and Saturnino Hernán to design these stained glass windows. Their floral and vegetal patterns that frame the windows were inspired by the Mexican landscape. Various windows feature these medallions with the images of the Mexican coat of arms and as well as the grasshopper, the symbol of Chapultapec.

Terrace

In 1839, Ángel and Inglis Calderón de la Barca moved to Mexico City from their home in Spain. Ángel was sent to Mexico as the new Spanish minister. Upon their arrival, Inglis went by the name the Marquise Calderon de la Barca. Inglis would go on to become one of the most famous female literary figures of the 19th-century. During her time in Mexico, she wrote accounts of her travels and assembled them into a book titled Life in Mexico.

When she arrived at the Chapultepec Castle, the building was empty and rotting. But the terrace was her sanctuary. It overlooked the Valley of Mexico. From there she could appreciate the beauty of the city with its aqueducts, green forests, churches and turquoise sky. On clear days, she could see the snow-covered volcanos, the Ajusco and the mountains that surround the valley of Mexico. 

The Bacchantes

Throughout the outdoor terrace, along the walls, are a series of painted Bacchantes. The bacchantes, whose names translates into the “raving ones” are female followers of Dionysus. They are most often portrayed as in a state of ecstatic frenzy through a combination of dancing and intoxication. The bacchantes are depicted wearing ivy-wreaths around their heads and often handle or wear snakes. They represent being the life of the party! And they seduce all those who look upon them to take part in the festivities. There are five murals in total, with a sixth in a museum, painted by Santiago Rebull in 1902. 

Porfirio Diaz Bedroom

During Díaz’s presidency, his entire family lived outside the city but would come to stay inside Chapultepec Castle during the summer months. Keeping the tradition that dates back to pre-hispanic times of using it as a summer palace. Here they would hold fancy dinner parties and receptions. Diaz and his wife had their bedroom on the second floor of the palace. Their bedrooms were significantly less opulent than the ones on the first floor designed by Maximilian. Signifying the difference between a royal ruler and an elected representative.

Bedroom of Carmen Romero Rubio

Carmen Romero Rubio was the daughter of a prominent military leader with ties to important political circles. She was educated, elegant, discreet and pious. Much like other influential wives, Carmen was instrumental in winning over the Mexican people and some sectors that were usually reluctant to the government. Although she always took care to stay away from the political affairs of the president, she doubtlessly helped improve Diaz’s public image. Her bedroom furniture was imported from France like her husband’s. It reflected her austerity and elegance as well as her taste for European fashions.

Office of Carmen Romero Rubio

Both Diaz and Rubio were avid scholars. They each loved reading and writing and had a treasure trove of books. The couple read everything from history to philosophy to books on the legal system in their library. They would frequently come here to their shared offices to read in peace, away from the rest of the world. Porfirio Díaz and Carmen Romero Rubio remained married until their deaths in exile in France in 1915.

Stained Glass Gallery

During Maximilian’s time in the palace, he wanted to build a roofed-in corridor on the second floor. This was meant to replicate the open terrace on the first floor. But as the years went by, they found that the high winds from the terrace made the rooms on the second floor very chilly at night. When Diaz took occupancy of the castle, he went about enclosing the space. But Diaz didn’t simply want to board it up. Instead, inspired by the stained glass windows inside European palaces and churches, he commissioned his own stained glass gallery.

This hallway does feel more like a sacred space than just a homely hallway. The richness of the colours of glass hasn’t changed an ounce over the years. The windows depict a series of Greco-Roman goddesses. We have Pomona, the goddess of fruit trees, gardens, and orchards. Next, we have Flora, the goddess of flowers and of spring. There is Hebe, the goddess of youth. Diana can be seen, the goddess of hunting and forests. And finally, we have Ceres, the agriculture goddess.

Each one of these women stands beneath a richly ornate arch. Supported on either side by two wonderfully carved columns with motifs in the shapes of plants, flowers and fruit. See if you can spot a few human faces amongst the carvings as well! Above each of the women is a medallion depicting the crest of Mexico City.

Interior Staircase

At the end of the Stained Glass Gallery, you can see the entrance to the interior staircase. The staircase is not accessible to the public. But it would lead from the second floor down to the antechamber below just off the dining room. It’s a beautiful peek into the most private parts of the castle.

Hall of Ambassadors

Opposite the Stained Glass Gallery, is one of the most elaborate rooms on the second floor, the Hall of Ambassadors. When Diaz presided over the country, Mexico saw a huge period of popularity amongst foreign nations. Diplomats from other countries all came to the castle to be entertained by the president. And the main area where they would be hosted was in the Hall of Ambassadors. Designer Epitacio Calvo brought elements of the baroque and the French neo-classical style into the furniture and the decorations.

Tower

In 1878 the first National Astronomical Observatory was built inside Chapultapec Castle. In fact, the large tower in the centre of the interior terrace was built just to house the telescope within. They dubbed this tower, the High Knight. When the castle was converted to a military college, the telescope was moved to the town of Tacubaya.

After moving the telescope out, the military converted the old observatory into a guard tower by adding in some guard posts surrounding the exterior. Today, since the castle is no longer used by the military, the guard posts are filled with beautiful bronze sculptures.

At the very top of the tower is where you’ll find the Mexican flag, flying proudly against a bright blue sky (on most days at least). Even on the ground, far far below the top of Chapultepec Hill, this flag can be seen on clear days. A wonderful icon of the city.

Indoor Concerts

We were lucky enough to be there on the day when a local group of musicians were performing their end-of-semester concert. There are often concerts heard here in the outdoor courtyard. There is nothing better than the sound of acoustic music filling the halls. The perfect way to end a spectacular day.

If you still have any energy left, consider walking through the Museum of Anthropology. It is located inside the old military college just next door to the Castle interiors. If you’re pressed for time, the palace is more than enough to fill your eyes with splendours. But if time allows, the Museum of Anthropology is much more interesting than perhaps it sounds. And is included in the same admission ticket. It’s filled with works incredible murals painted by preeminent Mexican artists. The collection also features objects and images that narrate the history of Mexico from the time of the Conquest to the 20th century. Well worth the effort to explore it if you have the time.

Hopefully, you enjoyed this tour of Chapultepec Castle, a historical gem of Mexico City. Let me know in the comments what your favourite part of the palace was!

Happy Travels Adventurers.

The post A Complete Guided Tour of Chapultepec Castle, Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

If you’re anywhere close to Sintra in your travels through Portugal, don’t miss out on visiting this fantastic place. This guide can be used both in conjunction with my ‘Day Trip to Sintra Guide,’ or if you’re just interested in visiting this one castle, it’s a great in-depth walkthrough of all the different historical details and artistic aspects of the Palace and Gardens.

Table Of Contents

1. How to Get to Sintra
2. When to Visit Pena Palace
3. Access, Hours & Admission
4. History of Pena Palace
5. Arches Yard
6. Wall Walk
7. Interior of the Palace
8. Entry Doorway
9. Queen’s Terrace
10. Cafe and Restaurant
11. Gardens of Pena Park

How to Get to Sintra

Sintra is easily accessible from Lisbon by trains leaving from Rossio station. The trip requires no transfers and takes around 40 minutes. The round-trip journey costs just 4.50€, making it one of the most cost-efficient day trips. While trains are out to Sintra almost every 40 minutes, I highly recommend getting the train before 8 am. The train schedule changes slightly throughout the year, so I didn’t want to give you an exact time but leaving before 8 am means you’ll arrive before 9 am giving yourself plenty of time to get to your first destination with some time to spare before it opens.

Sintra seems to explode with tourist buses as the morning wears on, so early really pays off. Any chance of being tired is worth it for the experience of arriving at Pena Palace without having to wait in huge lines and fight the enormous crowds to see what’s around you. Also, have a metro card loaded with funds to tap on and off the train or buy your train tickets in advance. Even super early in the morning, there was a lineup at the ticket counter. We were happy to have our pre-loaded metro cards, which meant we could just tap right on them, ensuring we made it onto the train in time. It was surprising how critical those few minutes were in the outcome of our day.

When to Visit Pena Palace

Pena Palace is always busy. Yes, the winter will most likely be the least busy, but it’s also chilly and can be a bit grey. Since most of the things to see are outside, it’s not always the most comfortable time to explore. The height of the summer holidays is equally as miserable but instead because of the intense heat and crowds. Springtime is the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is reliably the best chance you’ll have to see a small reduction in groups. Avoid holidays when possible as these bring in the Portuguese tourists. As mentioned before the earlier in the morning you arrive, the better chance you’ll have at beating the bus tours, which are the most significant crowd control issue.

Access, Hours & Admission

There are two (well three) options for getting to the palace. The first is to take the public buses which are located right outside Sintra Station. The bus to take is #434, which services Pena Palace. This bus tends to have pretty big lines up at the train station stop since everyone getting on needs to purchase their day ticket, and that slows things down and bit. But once you have your pass, it’s super easy to jump on and off throughout the day. Tickets for this bus cost 5€ for a 24-hour pass.

Taking an Uber

The second option is jumping in an Uber. Ubers are a great way to get around Sintra but be warned that because some of the streets are one way, up a long and winding hill, some drivers might take a while to get to you or might cancel frequently. The Uber ride from the train station to Pena Palace is around 6€ depending on the time of day and the weather. If you’re travelling with 3 or 4 people, Uber can really save you some money, and if there is a big line up for the bus, it can save you some time as well. If you haven’t used Uber before, download the app and use my referral code rds9f to get $5 off your first ride!

Walking to the Castle

The third option is to walk. Walking from the train station to Pena Palace is a pretty long journey, but if you’re keen to do some hiking, this is a great opportunity. Just leave yourself some extra time to hike up to the castle and still arrive at the gates for 9:30 am.

While the entry gates are located just off the roadside, the palace itself is a fair bit uphill from the main entrance. There is a mini-bus which runs up to the top, but it costs 3€ and more than the money, the line you need to wait in to get onto the bus is a huge inconvenience. Although a little long, the walk up is actually quite enjoyable. If you have mobility issues, just take it slow and spend the extra time resting in between spurts admiring all the beautiful flora and fauna in the garden.

Admission Options

There are two options for Pena Palace admission. One is to tour the palace’s exterior and royal gardens. The other option will get you entry into the interior of the castle. If you are confident you’ll arrive early and are keen on seeing the rooms inside, go ahead and buy that ticket. But the lineup to get inside can get insanely long. They need to control the number of people who enter the buildings (something which isn’t monitored outside), so this often results in lengthy queues.

We were there as close to the opening as possible, and even we had to wait about 20 minutes to get inside. When we left, the line looked to be almost 2 hours long. While I thoroughly enjoyed touring the interior, there is no way it’s worth 2+ hours of waiting in line. If you think you can miss the interior, the gardens, and the exterior ticket is an excellent option since I think the best parts of the castle are the exterior anyway. It will save you a few euros and potentially a lot of time. If you did purchase a ticket for the interior tour but the lineup to get inside is gigantic, I would advise coming back right before closing when the crowds have cleared out.

Hours

Pena Palace is open all year round except December 25th and January 1st. During the Summer (March to October), the palace is open from 9:45 am until 7:00 pm (last entry 6:15), and the park is open from 9:30 am until 8:00 pm (last entry 7:00 pm). In the Winter (October to March), the palace & park are open from 10:00 am until 6:00 pm.

When to Visit Sintra

Sintra is always busy. Yes, the winter will most likely be the least busy, but it’s also chilly and can be a bit grey. Since most of the things to see are outside, it’s not always the most comfortable time to explore. The height of the summer holidays is equally as miserable but instead because of the intense heat and crowds. Springtime is the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is the best chance you’ll see a small group reduction.

Avoid holidays when possible, as these bring in Portuguese tourists. As mentioned before, the earlier in the morning you arrive, the better chance you’ll have at beating the bus tours, which are the most significant crowd control issue. Always the most comfortable time to explore.

How Much Time to Spend?

Pena Palace, although the most popular spot to visit in Sintra, doesn’t take too much time to tour. We spent about 2 hours inside the Palace proper and another hour touring the gardens. If you wanted to tour the entirety of the acres and acres the gardens are spread out across you could be here all day, but to visit the entirety of the Palace and a general tour of the gardens would take around 3 hours. This doesn’t include waiting in line, so if you come on a busy day when the line up to get inside the interior is hours long this will obviously add to your time spent there.

If you find the line for the interior is too long and you want to see a lot of the gardens, consider doing the gardens first and then returning to the interior later on in the day. Sometimes if a huge tour bus drops off a few busloads just waiting for those groups to disappear is a great plan to avoid having to wait in line with them.

Is it Really Worth Visiting?

Pena Palace, although the most popular spot to visit in Sintra, doesn’t take too much time to tour. We spent about 2 hours inside the Palace proper and another hour touring the gardens. If you wanted to tour the entire garden, which is spread out across acres and acres, you could be here all day, but to visit the whole of the palace and a comprehensive tour of the gardens would take around 3 hours. This doesn’t include waiting in line, so if you come on a busy day when the line up to get inside the interior is hours long, this will obviously add to your time spent here. If you find the line for the interior is too long and you want to see a lot of the gardens, consider doing the gardens first and then returning to the interior later on.

History of Pena Palace

The Hieronymite monastery was built in 1503 in honour of the Virgin Mary, who is said to have appeared at the top of the mountain in a vision. After falling to ruins over the years due to religious upheavals, King Ferdinand II, who had been in love with this spot since he was a child, decided to buy the buildings and the surrounding lands. Construction of the new royal estate began in 1838.

Ferdinand was obsessed with romanticism in art and architecture. He wanted his contemporary summer house to feel like something out of a storybook. Oddly enough, the palace’s construction was taken on by a mining engineer, Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege. Perhaps this was because the Prince and his wife wanted their full say in the castle’s design. Yet they needed Eschwege’s planning prowess to help them achieve the look of a castle sprung forth from the rocks. There really is no one style to be found here. Instead, it’s a patchwork quilt of influences and themes. Ferdinand wanted to include Medieval and Islamic elements and Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Manueline. The Manueline architecture was the most iconic style in Portugal at the time. It was the millennial pink of its time.

Architecture

There really is no one style to be found here. Instead, it’s a patchwork quilt of influences and themes. Ferdinand wanted to include Medieval and Islamic elements and Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Manueline. The Manueline architecture was the most iconic style in Portugal at the time. It was the millennial pink of its time.

After the death of Ferdinand, the castle was inherited by his second wife, Elise Hensler, who became Countess of Edla. The Countess, under pressure from the crown, sold the estate back to the royal family with the one condition that she could continue to live there until her death. King Carlos, next in line to the throne, was the last member of the royal family to live in the palace. After his assassination, his son, Manuel II, became the last King of Portugal and his wife, Queen Amélia, was the last person who stayed in the palace until the republican regime brought an end to the Portuguese crown.

Entrance to the Palace

While the entry gates are just off the roadside, the palace is a fair bit uphill from the main entrance. There is a mini-bus which runs up to the top, but it costs 3€ and more than the money, the line you need to wait in to get onto the bus is a huge inconvenience. Although a little long, the walk-up is actually quite enjoyable. If you have mobility issues, just take it slow and spend the extra time resting between spurts admiring all the beautiful flora and fauna in the garden.

At the top of the hill, the golden yellow walls, blue tile and red-painted exterior of the palace begin to emerge from the trees. Seeing this palace in real life is nothing like seeing the pictures. I really don’t think they can do it justice. Walking up those cobblestone steps makes you feel like you’re walking into a fantasy.

Door of Alhambra

The entryway into the castle is called the Door of Alhambra. It was inspired by the Alhambra Door of Justice in Granada, Spain. The doorway is covered in brightly painted tiles and decorated with various elegant leaves. Ferdinand wanted this gateway to be where his visitors left the real world behind and stepped into his dream world.

The Coach Yard

Open passing through the archway, we step into the ‘Coach Yard.’ This was as far as horses and carriages could come, and guests would make their way to the palace on foot. Standing here, we can look up at the ‘Monumental Gateway.’ The gateway’s design is a blend of architectural elements found all over Lisbon and which the Prince wanted to see incorporated into his palace.

The facade is covered in diamond-shaped stones, referencing the Casa dos Bicos in Alfama. On either side of the top of the gateway, we have arched domes, completed with rope-like decoration; the same was on the famed Tower of Belem. The exterior is finished in a series of round balls reminiscent of the Cunhal das Bolas in Barrio Alto. In the centre of the arch, on the very top, is a pair of crossed swords atop a knight’s helmet, with a plume of lush feathers springing out of the top.

Upper Courtyard

Step through the archway and make your way around the swirling passageway to the upper courtyard. It’s here you’ll finally have the chance to study the tiles which make up the exterior hue of this building. Tiles, or Azulejos as they are called in Portuguese, have a strong history in Portugal, dating back to the 13th century. The Moors brought them here, who invaded much of Spain and Portugal in the 1200s. The word azulejo in Arabic means “small polished stone.” In Islam, they believed in aniconism, the avoidance of images of sentient beings in art. As such, geometric shapes became the most popular form of decor. As such, most of the tiles brought with them from Islam continue this tradition. The geometric and natural forms are striking, and their colours haven’t faded significantly over the years.

The Triton Portico

The Triton Portico is one of the most impressive elements of Pena Palace. Triton is meant to serve as an allegorical of the world’s creation. The facade is divided into two factions, the aquatic world below and the terrestrial world above. They are separated by Triton, a monster half man and half fish but a part of both worlds. Bits of corals surround Triton’s feet; above him, you can see the carved grape vines and leaves blossoming wildly. The Portuguese were a seafaring nation, and aquatic symbolism was always an important aspect of their artistic culture.

Azulejos

Tiles, or Azulejos as they are called in Portuguese, date back to the 13th century. They were brought here by the Moors who invaded much of Spain and Portugal in the 1200s. The word azulejo in Arabic means “small polished stone”.

In Islam, they believed in aniconism, which is the avoidance of images of sentient beings in art. As such, geometric shapes became the most popular form of decor and as such, most of the tiles brought with them from Islam continue this tradition.

Arches Yard

Walk underneath Triton’s arch out to the Arches Yard. The small passageway is where you’ll find the restrooms which are also covered in traditional tile work. The Arches Yard is framed by a wall of graceful, golden arches done up in Moorish style. The arches create a window onto the village of Sintra and across the countryside below.

There is nothing to compare this view to, it seems to go on and on forever on a clear day. From atop this peak, you can spy on all the wealthy estates below, one of which is actually owned by Madonna, the Queen of pop herself! Sintra truly is still to this day where the rich and famous come to escape the city and to live in some of the most lavish properties found anywhere in the world.

Convent of the Order of Christ

Take the chance to turn your eyes away from the incredible view, and look across towards one of the incredibly ornate windows on the main facade. This piece was directly inspired by the chapter house window in the Convent of the Order of Christ in Tomar. The window is surrounded in alchemical symbols, some of which seem to have a mystical aura. Much of Sintra’s more obscure lore lies in its prominence as a Masonic hub. The Convent of the Order of Christ was a 12th-century stronghold for the Knights Templar. Once its order was disbanded, it is said that the Masonic Temple was formed to continue its mission. It is rumoured that King Ferdinand was himself a grand master of the Masonic Order and as such, influenced much of Sintra’s history as a Masonic centre of power.

Chapel

Standing guard over the Arches Yard is the sizeable red clock tower atop the old monastery chapel. The steeple of the chapel is embellished with white and emerald green tiles which beautifully contrast the red and yellow walls and the blue (or grey in our case) sky.

The chapel remains unchanged from its 16th-century design. 22 monks would come to pray here during their time at the monastery. The walls are entirely covered in green and white polychrome tiles which still shine inside the darkened chapel. In a small alcove is the ornate alabaster and black marble altar made by Nicolau de Chanterene in 1532. The expressions which he managed to carve out of the solid marble defy earthly conventions making it feel all the more holy.

Remnants of the Monastery

Opposite the altar is one of the few remaining original stained glass windows from the monastery. The coloured used within this design are so striking, and it’s hard to believe this piece is a few hundred years old. I loved how quiet it was inside the church, it seemed most people skipped it as they were in a rush in those group tours, but I was glad to have stopped inside as it was a wonderful moment to pause and reflect on the beauty all around me.

Wall Walk

Just down the stairs from the chapel is the Wall Walk, a small passage which leads you around the back of the palace. While the narrow walkway looks over a steep hillside, the brave will be rewarded with one of the most unbelievable views across Sintra.

Standing on this side of the palace, you can see the Moorish Castle on the other side of the forest. It seems so far away, and yet the entrance to the Moorish Castle is just on the other side of Pena Park.

Interior of the Palace

If you bought a ticket to enter the interior, make your way inside. This part of the tour often gets very crowded, and the line can get long, so best to do it as soon as you enter when the line is bound to be shorter or if it seems rather long, skip it and make your way towards the gardens, with the intention to return here later in the day. The palace is made up of two separate wings. They are distinguishable by their paint colours. Ochre for the new wing and burnt red for the old monastic side.

Entry Doorway

A stunningly embellished door, surrounded in carved florals now serves as the way in for visitors to the palace. This was the entrance formerly used by the Royal Family, providing access to the palace’s most private areas. This building was once the Hieronymite monastery, and although the spaces were converted from simple rooms for prayer into luxurious royal residences, the bones of the original structure remain the same.

The Hieronymite Convent Cloister

As you enter, you’ll step right into the cloisters. Look up and see how the open-air hallways continue on both floors of the palace. The entirety of this place is covered in azulejos, and ghastly faces stare down at you, carved in the gargoyles above. The centre of the cloister has a giant carving of a shell in the centre which is held up by four little turtles. The open shell represents a womb, as this little scene is an allegory for the vegetal world giving birth to the aquatic underworld. Like the wealthy Portuguese Kings who, with their finances, gave birth to the world’s best seafaring explorers.

Scullery

The scullery is the first room you’ll enter from the outside cloister. In large, dark wood cabinets along the walls are porcelain and crystal flatware from the Royal collection. Set up on one table just to the right of the entry door is a sample of what their tea sets would look like. Tiny, little cups and plates in the shape of seashells are ready for a hot pot of tea and finger sandwiches.

Dining Room

One of the most impressive rooms you’ll see on the first floor is the dining room. The dining room has the most remarkable ceilings made of intricate ribbed vaults and lined in tiles. The table is set like they’re still awaiting their visitors. Each piece of furniture was made for this exact space, the images of Portuguese animals of the forest carved into the backs of the chairs. The rainbow coloured glassware still catching the light white pours through the windows. Even from the other side of the room, you can see how truly amazing the view from the interior really is.

King Carlos’ Bedrooms

After the death of King Ferdinand II, the palace passed hands several times but eventually became the residences of King Carlos and his wife Dona Améli in 1890. The bedrooms and apartments on the lower floors belonged to King Carlos. These apartments were initially the former Chapter House of the Manueline monastery. They were used by King Ferdinand II as his servants quarters, but King Carlos actually preferred this more modest setting and left the upper more elaborate apartments for his wife. King Carlos’ bedroom is decorated in dark wood, with bright green accents. The Empire style was an early-nineteenth-century design movement which was inspired by Neoclassicism and Romanticism, and each piece of furniture in this room was designed within that style. On the walls, there are splendidly painted emotional landscapes, and throughout the room, classical sculptures of attractive women of mythology make almost any spectator blush.

King Carlos’ Studio

The reverie continues into King Carlos’ studio. Here we find a mural painted across the entire room of nymphs and satyrs playing in the Park of Pena. This painting is believed to have been painted by the King himself, who was obsessed with filling his private quarters in these fantastical scenes.

King Carlos’ Bathroom

Pena Palace was one of the first royal residences to have sanitation facilities specifically designed for personal hygiene. Despite being a bathroom, the room is nevertheless filled with decorative garnishes. The bathrooms are filled with luxurious furniture and lined top to bottom in the most exceptional tile work.

The Interior Niche

A small corner niche which you’ll see before going upstairs contains one of the oldest treasures of the former Monastery. This little niche features a mosaic wall decorated with shells, stones and porcelain pieces. Since it was transformed into a simple storeroom, there was no need to remove the old decor to make way for more modern decorations therein preserving its history for the modern era.

Bedroom of the Queen’s Secretary and Ladies-in-Waiting

Next, we head upstairs to find Queen Amélia’s apartments. The first room we enter is the bedroom of the Queen’s ladies in waiting. Initially, when King Ferdinand II lived here with Countess of Edla, this room was a small dressing room, but when Queen Amélia moved in, she required more space for her servants and noblewomen. One of the most beautiful objects in the room is the Indo-Portuguese rosewood bed, carved to perfection like the wood was made from butter. Above the bed are plastered a knotted row of branches which blossom with hundreds of pine cones so lifelike you’ll think they might fall down upon your head.

The Queen’s Withdrawing Room

The yellow room adjacent is the Queen’s Withdrawing Room. It features a stunning bunting of plaster roses which hang from the crown moulding. Rose motifs are etched into almost every inch of the vaulted ceiling. More proof of Ferdinand’s obsession with romanticism and bringing nature into the interior of the home.

Queen’s Bedroom

The most opulent of all the rooms in the Queen’s bedroom. Moorish decorations cover the walls and ceiling in a way that literally makes your jaw drop. Geometric patterns repeat on the roof and spread out onto all the walls below. The designs are centred around bright gold stars covered in sumptuous gold leaf. The dark wooden bed is given a baroque treatment with swirling bedposts and a headboard which surges and swells like the waves.

Study of Queen Amélia

Outside the bedroom, you’ll find the study of Queen Amelia. Originally this was the music room, a room which acted very similarly to a modern day living room. This was where the family would listen to various musicians play traditional Portuguese instruments. Eventually, the room was transformed into the Queen’s study. Today, it is used to display silverware, weaponry and even the desks and stationary of Queen Amélia. The room’s wallpaper is made to look like carved stoned with faux azulejos in green and white accents.

Green Room

The green room provides another brilliant example of Trompe-l’ œil. Here the wallpaper is made to replicated flowers and branches as well as traditional architectural carvings. Although some of the paint is peeling, I love how this part was left unrestored as it makes the building feel more authentic and shows its real age!

Arab Reception Room

Past the royal chambers, we find the Arab Reception room. Looking at this room from afar you might be fooled into thinking the walls open up to the exterior and the ceiling is fantastically carved. But in fact, these are all optical illusions. This technique is called ‘Trompe-l’ œil’ which is French for “to deceive the eye”. Objects which exist in three dimensions are here created in a two dimensional forced perspective with nothing else but paint. The paintings were made in 1854 by esteemed Italian scenographer Paolo Pizzi. This technique was employed to make otherwise small spaces to make them feel grandiose to the guests who would be received for the first time in this room.

The Galleries

The next few rooms were once used as the abbot’s suite when the building was a monastery. These now contain different trinkets, treasures and works of art which belonged to King Ferdinand II. This part of the tour felt so special since you were looking at all these personal items which help you understand the personality of the man who once owned this castle. The little things which make a house, a home.

Smoking Room

In the smoking room, we find a vast Islamic dome covered in Mudejar art. A stunning neo-rococo chandelier hangs from the ceiling, covered in Venetian glass in the shape of ivy climbing all over the wrought iron frame. The candles site inside morning glory flowers, also made from that fantastical Venetian glass. The white walls are covered intricate textures which were created to replicate the look of traditional Indian lacework. This was my favourite room, it felt both immensely regal, which also being restrained and demure.

Queen’s Terrace

The Queen had access to one of the most astonishing parts of the castle, the south facing terrace. From here she could look out over the majestic Sintra countryside and the castle’s exceptional architecture. During the reign of King Carlos and Queen Amélia, there was a large metal structure erected on the terrace so the king and queen could entertain their guests outdoors during the summer. In the centre of the terrace are a large sundial and solar quadrant which once fired a small cannon throughout the day to announce the presence of the royal family or visiting dignitaries.

Noble Hall

Upstairs, Noble Hall is one of the most impressive spaces in the palace. Compared to the relatively small sized bedrooms, this receptions hall was where the King took advantage of space. It was here where large parties were thrown, and the who’s who of Lisbon’s high society would come during the summer.

The Noble Hall was inspired by the Ottoman Court. Iron replicas of Turkish kings are located on either end of the room, in their hands, they hold huge golden torches. Rich, red leather sofas on either side of the hall were designed with mirrored canopies behind them to make the room appear much larger than it is in reality. It was also an excellent way for the elite to spy on those around them and see just who is sharing secrets with who.

Stag Hall

One of the last rooms you’ll see is the Stag Hall. Originally it was supposed to be the banqueting hall, but construction was halted, and it never came to be. The central column, designed to looks like a giant tree trunk, was going to be the enormous round table which guest would eat around like knights of stories past. On all the walls there would have been antique weapons on display, and each of the windows would have contained pieces of archaic stained-glass themed with heraldic motifs. Since this new part of the castle was never finished, it remains somewhat unfinished looking with only stuffed deer trophies decorating the plain white walls and glass display cases featuring the pieces of stained glass planned for the windows.

Kitchen

The last room you’ll see is the old kitchen, a real hit with chefs and foodies. In here are all the original kitchen utensils, pots and pans and other old-fashioned culinary tools found in this old Portuguese kitchen. The kitchen felt enormous compared to the rather small interior rooms, but it must have taken an army to feed the great parties which were no doubt held here. The new kitchen was designed to be close to the Stag Hall since it was meant to be the main dining area, but unfortunately for the poor chefs, this never came to be.

Cafe and Restaurant

After touring the castle, the cafe located on the terrace is a great spot to grab lunch. Although the restaurant here is rather expensive, the cafe is surprising cheap with a selection of delicious Portuguese pastries, sandwiches and more. If you brought your lunch, this is also an excellent opportunity to break out the picnic. While there might be better places to eat in town, it would take ages to get there and back so instead, enjoy the regal atmosphere around and soak in the view.

Gardens of Pena Park

After finishing up at the palace, it’s now time to explore the gardens of Pena. The map they give you when you enter is really confusing, so its best to just keep that adventuring spirit in front of your mind and just wander the park. Don’t worry about getting lost, you’ll eventually stumble upon some signage, which always helped us get back on the right track. The gardens cover over 85 hectares of land around the castle. If you love hiking, you should definitely try to come out here and explore the entirety of the park. This could take you all day and is certainly not for those in a rush, but if you have the time to space, there are so many amazing things to discover.

Cruz Alta

You can hike to the very top of the gardens to find the Cruz Alta, located 529 metres above sea level. This stone cross is situated at the highest point of the Sintra hills. The cross is made of intertwined branches and created to mark to the where the explorer D. Joao III claimed this land for Portugal. Another famous landmark is the Statue of the Warrior. This stunning granite sculpture made in 1848 by Ernesto Rusconi is of a non-descript knight who represented all those idealized, romantic notions in which the parks and palace sought to embody.

Compared to the hundreds of people at the palace, these winding pathways around the gardens felt like your own private area. We were often the only ones there, and in spite of the confusing map, we had a blast exploring and getting lost all along the way. Ferdinand wanted these gardens to feel like wandering through a romantic forest where you wouldn’t be surprised to come upon nymphs drinking spring water from the fountains or unicorns grazing on fern trees.

Greenhouse

The Hot House, or greenhouse, can be found just past the Camellia Gardens. The greenhouses’ importance is notable by the fact that it is surrounded by large stone walls which aim to protect and highlight this spot. The greenhouse was equipped with its own plumbing system, and you can find the old furnace outside which was used to heat the greenhouse throughout the year. This was used to keep those precious flowers which needed warmth, safe throughout the colder winters. Having this greenhouse meant that Ferdinand could grow many different impressive flowers and trees, which otherwise would have been impossible to flourish outside of their natural environment. One more example of how this palace made the impossible possible.

Throughout the garden, you’ll spot everything from magnolias, Japanese Cryptomeria, Chinese ginko, American sequoia, cypress, red cedar, as well as tree ferns from New Zeland and Australia. No matter what time of year you come, there is almost always something flowering.

Islamic-style domed pavilion

In the lower portion of the gardens, you might be surprised to find an Islamic-style domed pavilion. Around the edge of the dome, written in Arabic are the words “The Sultan D. Manuel built this chapel blessed in the name of Our Lady Mary of Pena, in the year 1503, in celebration of the safe return of Dom Vasco da Gama’s discovery of the lands and countries which he found…” The King was never a Sultan, but it’s just one more way that we can see how Ferdinand really loved a fairytale story, even about himself.

Further down, closer to the roadside entrance to the park, you’ll find the Grotto of the Monk. This was once a modest medieval garden where the Hieronymite monks would come to retreat the monastery and meditate in the peace and quiet of the forest.

Duck Houses

One of the last things in the park to explore before you exit are the Duck Houses. These stone towers look more like minature forts, but when you look closer at their tiny doors, you might catch a glimpse of a family of ducks making their way home. These were such a delight to Ferdinand’s guests, as everyone got a good laugh out of these ducks with their very own castle, within in a castle.

The duck houses mark the end of the tour. They are located at the official entrance to Pena Park. If you’re continuing on from here, it’s a short 10-minute walk over to the Moorish Castle, or you can hop on bus #434 to get back to Sintra station. While many people make Pena Palace a part of their day trip to Sintra, if you choose to explore the entirety of the park and spend some quality time inside the palace, you can easily dedicate an entire day to this wonderland. I hope that either way, you decide to visit this incredible site. I hope that you have a great time exploring all these secrets I’ve uncovered for you and that you share with me any new ones you discover!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of Pena Palace, Sintra first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Admission and Access
3. House 20
4. Franz Kafka House
5. House 12
6. House 13
7. House 14
8. House 15
9. House 16
10. House 23
11. House 27
12. Medieval Armoury

History

In 1597, the marksmen who guarded the castle’s fortifications wanted a place to live nearby. They didn’t want to walk back to Lower Town every day after their shift was over, and being nearby would mean faster response to any attackers. The emperor permitted them to build their homes on the small piece of land now the Golden Lane. But there were 24 marksmen and a lack of space for large enough houses. The miniature houses were constructed in the mannerist style out of stone, mud and wood – all cheap materials which would have been abundant to these marksmen.

Eventually, the row became home to more than just marksmen. Both rich and poor people lived here, as their proximity to the castle made it the perfect location to best serve the monarchy. There were artists, clerks, footmen, and more living along this narrow road. An extensive renovation was done to the lane in the 1950s after WWII, and only 11 historic houses remain today. The houses on the street no longer house residents of Prague but contain souvenir shops and little exhibits which display what life was like in the lane over the last 500 years.

The street gets its name from the famous alchemist who once lived here during the reign of Rudolf II. This alchemist was obsessed with creating the philosopher’s stone, the elixir of youth and most of all, trying to turn cheap metals into gold! He was never successful himself, but stories of his attempts lived on. In the 20th century, an old doctor of philosophy spent his life savings collecting old books on magic and went about secret experiments in his house on Golden Lane.

One day, neighbours heard an explosion and came running. His house was on fire, and when firefighters finally could extinguish the blaze, they found the old man dead inside, clutching a large piece of gold in his hand. Perhaps he finally accomplished what all those alchemists before him were attempting to do, as no one could understand how else he would have come to own such a large, expensive piece of gold.

Admission and Access

Access to the Golden Lane can be gained only with a Prague Castle admission ticket. You can access the Golden Lane on either circuit A or B. It is open from November – March from 9am – 2pm and from April – October from 9am – 5pm.

House 20

The only house retained with a Renaissance appearance is house #20, with its original dark brown pieces of framing, which can be seen from the exterior.

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Franz Kafka House

Many famous people have lived here throughout the years. Be sure to stop by house #22, the blue house, which was once home to Czech-born, German-language novelist Franz Kafka. Although the interior of this house is one of the most disappointing since it’s now nothing more than a cheesy souvenir shop.

House 12

House #12 was owned by film historian and collector Josef Kazda. This was my favourite house on the lane. Inside are hundreds of posters from old Czech films and piles of film canisters littering the floor. Kazda saved many films which were supposed to be destroyed by the Nazis in WWII, and his house became a kind of warehouse to keep these pieces of history safe.

House 13

House #13 is the residence of the red artilleryman. It’s a recreation of the home of one of the many guards who protected the castle. Inside you can find his bed, original guard uniform, and their humble cottage kitchen.

House 14

House #14 once belonged to the psychic Madame de Thebes, who lived here in the 20th century. She predicted the downfall of the Third Reich and was eventually arrested and tortured to death by the Gestapo for her predictions, which, as we all know, finally came true. This house now hosts items favoured by fortune tellers, like tarot cards, skulls and books on astrology.

House 15

House #15 contains an exhibition dedicated to the goldsmith’s workshop. In addition to living in these houses, many craftsmen used them as studios. Inside this little house, you’ll find a small Renaissance desk, goldsmith tools, an outfit that such craftsmen would have worn during the period, and various other items of decor that such a man would have owned.

House 16

House #16 is a recreation of the kinds of tavern inns that would have served the Golden Lane and Prague Castle residents in the Renaissance period. A dimly lit bedroom, surrounded in rich animal furs and jugs of ale, surrounds the bedside.

House 23

House #23 is a goldsmith’s workshop. Displaying antique jewelry both on the exterior and interior, there is a myriad of tools of the goldsmith’s trade on display. A fur apron sits on the chair, as it was used to catch any of those precious flecks of fold the smith would be working with. One can only imagine the kinds of requests these goldsmiths would be making for the Kings and Queens of Bohemia and their court.

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House 27

House #27 contains an exhibition dedicated to herbalists. Herbalists were the doctors, pharmacists, dermatologists and makeup artists of the 15th century. They cured diseases, healed wounds and served both the rich and poor. Their materials consisted mostly of flowers, powders, seeds and spices. Inside you also have a modern-day beauty products shop selling all sorts of natural creams and tonics made in the Czech Republic from regional ingredients. I’d seen this brand elsewhere in the city, but buying it in the old home of the original herbalists felt extra special.

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Medieval Armoury

At the end of the lane, one of the houses houses a medieval armoury and textile displays. Visitors can even try shooting a crossbow in the makeshift range they’ve set up inside. Although this little street might seem inconsequential against the majesty of St. Vitus Cathedral or the Royal Residences, seeing how the everyday people who built the foundations of the city lived, is truly an eye-opening experience.

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Prague’s Golden Lane is a must for any traveller. From its vibrant and well-preserved medieval architecture to its historical significance and rich cultural heritage, the Golden Lane offers a unique and unforgettable experience. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture lover, or just looking for a fun and immersive day out, the top ten sights on this walking tour are sure to captivate and delight.

The post The Top Ten Things to See on a Walking Tour of Prague’s Golden Lane first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Osaka Castle
3. Kuromon Ichiba Market
4. Nambayasaka Shrine
5. Hozenji Yokocho
6. Hozenji Temple
7. Amerikamura! 
8. Hokkyokusei 
9. Dotonburi
   • Glico-Running-Man
10. Ebisu Bridge
11. What to Eat?
    • Takoyaki
    • Kani Doraku Dotonburi Honten
    • Osaka Ohsho
    • Creoru Okonomiyaki
    • Melon Bread Ice cream
    • Pablo Dotonbori
12. Don Quixote Ferris Wheel
13. Space Station

History

In 645, Emperor Kōtoku made Osaka the capital of Japan, and Osaka prospered and grew for years. Eventually, the capital was moved to Tokyo. But Osaka continued to be a flourishing port city and commercial centre for Japan. Today, many people flock onto its streets for one main thing: the food!

Osaka Castle

Start your morning off at Osaka Castle. The history of Osaka Castle dates back to 1583. However, the building you see today is far from the original. Wars, sieges and bombing raids destroyed the structure many times over the years, and the current incarnation is a reconstruction from 1995. The castle is now used as a museum dedicated to the history of the castle and Osaka. While the museum is pretty interesting, for our purposes today, we’re just going to take a walk around the grounds. You can still see so much of the castle from down below. The incredibly beautiful moats and tree line passageways surrounding the castle are a relaxing way to start your morning rather than crammed into a line to see inside.  

Surrounding the castle are various food stalls selling some of Osaka’s culinary specialties. I would opt for the yakisoba, a delicious noodle dish covered in oyster sauce and topped with pickled ginger. Strangely enough, it makes for a delicious and decidedly Japanese breakfast. You can get it to go and eat it in front of the picturesque castle moat which surrounds the entire castle.

Kuromon Ichiba Market

The next stop is the Kuromon Ichiba Market. The Kuromon market has been open as “the nation’s kitchen” since 1601. Its bustling narrow alley serves fresh sushi and sashimi, meat, produce and a collection of housewares and souvenir shops. Although there are plenty of grocery stalls, there are also dozens of small restaurants along the alley where you can grab a delightful little lunch.

Try to arrive before or after 12 pm to ensure it’s not too busy and you miss the lunch rush! While Tsukiji in Tokyo is most notable for its fresh fish, Osaka is famous for its choice of sliced Wagyu and Kobe beef. You can pick your desired cut, and certain shops will cook it right up for you then and there! Just add a little salt and get ready for a transcendent taste experience.

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Nambayasaka Shrine

After stuffing your face at the market, work off all those calories with a short 15-minute walk over to Nambayasaka Shrine. If you’ve been in Japan for some time now, you might think, “another shrine?” but trust me, this one really stands out. Approaching it, even from afar, you’ll notice it right away. The shrine was designed in the shape of an enormous lion’s head. The area of Osaka we’ve now entered is Namba, and this is its main Shinto shrine. While many temples in Japan are Buddhist, brought to Japan by the Chinese, Shinto is Japan’s native religion. Each Shinto shrine worships a particular spirit or “kami.” At this temple, the spirit lion is said to swallow evil spirits and bring good luck to those who come to pray. So if you have any evil spirits to get rid of, this is the place to do it!

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Hozenji Yokocho

Walk up through the charming side street of Namba towards Hozenji Yokocho. Hozenji Yokocho is a tight little alleyway whose architecture has been preserved as a relic from the Edo period. Stepping under the gates, flanked on either side by bright red lanterns, you enter a peaceful oasis. Study the architecture tightly squeezed in on either side. 

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Hozenji Temple

Stop by the nearby Hozenji Buddhist temple, which dates back to the 17th century. This temple gives the name to the area. It features an ancient statue of Fudomyoo, which is covered in moss. Blessings are given by pouring water over the statue, keeping the moss nice and healthy, and, best of all, bright green! It really looks like a tree sculpture instead of a stone statue.

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Amerikamura! 

Our next stop is over in “Amerikamura.” While some places might send you to the more popular Shinsaibashi shopping arcade, I find it rather commercialized and lacking the, sometimes odd, characters that Amerikamura has. You might think it odd to visit somewhere inspired by America if you’re looking for a Japanese experience, but this is Japan’s idealized version of America. Studying if you have lived or have ever been to the US before is fascinating. Colourful and quirky shops line the street, and even more quirkily dressed teenagers relax outside hip coffee shops and lively bars. This is the best place to find well-priced and fantastically curated thrift shops and indie clothing brands.

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Hokkyokusei 

If you’re a little hungry before dinner, stop by Hokkyokusei, where you can sample the now internet-famous omurice. Omurice is an omelette stuffed with rice and slathered in a thick red sauce. When you cut it open down the centre, the entire thing melts down the middle sensationally pleasingly. It’s delicious and the perfect little bit to eat to tide you over before dinner.

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Dotonburi

As night begins to fall, it is time to make your way over to the neon streets of Dotonburi. While the biggest highlight inside Dotonburi is the food, the architecture and spectacular light show are nothing to scoff at. At night, the entire area comes alive, and the lights of the buildings dance on the water along the Tombori River. “Dotonbori” is named after Yasui Doton, whose vision in 1612 was to create two canals connecting this area to the Kizugawa River, thereby increasing its commercial and trading power. War greatly affected his plans; unfortunately, he died before seeing his vision come to fruition. His cousins took over the concept after Yasui Doton’s death and named the area after him.

Glico-Running-Man

One of the most famous neon signs in Dotonburi is the Glico-Running-Man. This billboard has been located here for over 70 years and is the oldest sign on the street. It is over 33m tall and stands imposingly over the iconic Ebusu-bashi bridge. Glico’s primary business is manufacturing confectionery products, so it might seem odd that its mascot is an athlete, but that’s just how Japan is, unexpected.

Ebisu Bridge

Be sure to stand on the Ebisu Bridge and look at the river and the beautiful flashing signs on either side. This is the perfect spot for a photo opportunity or just to take a moment to drink in all the incredible imagery which Dotonburi is so famous for.

What to Eat?

Takoyaki

But there is one reason you probably came to Osaka: to eat, and Dotonburi is the place to do it. What’s great about Dotonburi is that all the food options here are small, unlike huge meals, so you can sample a myriad of Osaka’s culinary treasures in one night. The first stop on your food tour should be Takoyaki. 

This iconic ball-shaped delicacy is the most popular treat from Osaka. Made from an egg batter and filled with a juicy piece of octopus, the batter is then poured into round pans and shaped into adorable little balls. Then it’s covered in savoury sauce, mayo, pickled ginger and topped with bonito flakes. There are so many vendors, so just find the one with the biggest line (always a sign for the best food in Japan) and wait for your turn to dig in!

Kani Doraku Dotonburi Honten

Next up is the famous Kani Doraku Dotonburi Honten. This sign is one of the most popular photo spots in Osaka due to the 3-meter wide moving mechanical crab located on the front of the building. You can dine inside with views over the river, but you can also grab cheaper grilled crab legs right outside the entrance to the restaurant. They are not super cheap but juicy, sweet and incredibly fresh.

Osaka Ohsho

Next up is Gyoza at Osaka Ohsho. Once more, you’ll see giant versions of the gyoza plastered up on the front of the building as you enter. Ordering here is very simple since there is only one option (meat and chives), and you just need to tell them how many order’s you’d like. Get a seat at one of their tiny tables and dress your gyoza with their zingy sauces.xxxxxxx

Creoru Okonomiyaki

At the very end of Dontonburi is Creoru Takoyaki & Okonomiyaki where you can sample Osaka’s own version of okonomiyaki. Osaka differs in this dish by adding grated yam potato to the batter and not including noodles, as some Okonomiyaki in Tokyo and Hiroshima are made with. It is a simple and clean version due to the lack of carbs. It allows the sampling of many different filling combinations.

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Melon Bread Ice cream

After all these incredible savoury dishes, it’s time for something sweet. One of the most popular street sweets is freshly baked melon “pan” or melon bread filled with a giant scoop of ice cream. Despite the name, there is no melon inside. The crust pattern on top of the bread when it cooks gives it a melon-looking appearance, hence the name. The combination of the hot and cold is perfect for any day!

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Pablo Dotonbori

If you’re still craving something sweet, check out Pablo Dotonbori’s cheese tarts. These world-famous tarts are buttery, crispy and perfectly sweet. They often have a big line, but it moves quickly and is worth the wait. Various flavours exist, but the classic and the macha are fan favourites.

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Don Quixote Ferris Wheel

Don Quixote is a famous superstore across Japan. But the one in Osaka is even more popular because it has a giant, 77-meter-tall Ferris wheel on its exterior. Its bright red and yellow tracks and huge mascot characters on the facade made it a popular photo opportunity even though it went out of service years ago. But thanks to its fandom, it was recently renovated and reopened to the public. Take your chance now before it closes down again to jump in and experience stunning views across Dotonbori.

Space Station

End off your night with some retro fun at Space Station. This bar is filled with retro video games, cheap drinks and amazing company!

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Osaka is a city full of surprises and has a lot to offer visitors. With the help of this guide, you can make the most of your 24 hours in Osaka and experience the best of what the city has to offer. From traditional temples to delicious street food, there is something for everyone in Osaka. We hope this guide has helped you plan your trip and that you enjoy exploring this vibrant city.

The post Your ULTIMATE Guide to Exploring Osaka in 24 Hours first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Where to Stay
   • Hotel Le Madaleno $
   • Le Mas Des Carassins Hotel $$
   • Chateau De Roussan $$$
3. Access
4. Walking Tour
   • Santon Museum
   • Eyguieres Gate
   • Les Baux Jus
   • Manville Mansion City Hall
   • Yves Brayer Museum
   • Place St. Vincent
   • St. Vincent Church
   • The Church Of The Penitents
   • Une Table Au Soleil
5. The Castle of Les Baux
   • The Chapel Of Saint Blaise
   • Quiqueran Hospital
   • The Troglodyte Houses
   • The Sarrasine Tower
   • Dovecote Wall
   • The First Courtyard
   • The Keep
6. Carrières de Lumières

History

Les Baux-de-Provence has been home to the people of France as far back as 6000 BC. But it wasn’t until the Middle Ages that the town became a military stronghold for the surrounding villages. The original fortress was built in the 11th-13th century. It became known all over France as one of the most formidable citadels in the country. Today, the ruins of the castle and the tiny village below are popular tourist destinations. Visit this living museum to take a peek into Provence’s past.

Where to Stay

Les-Baux has dozens of quaint little hotels and chateaus where you can lay your head for a night. Or for the entirety of your stay in Provence if you like! Often you can find the most charming options outside the most popular cities. If you have a car and are heading around Provence, consider spending a night or two in Les-Baux.

Hotel Le Madaleno $

Hotel Le Madaleno is extremely reasonably priced for the historic and luxurious setting! Its red-painted facade with green shudders and ivy-covered exterior makes it a joy to look at from its crystal-clear swimming pool. Since the historic part of Les-Baux closes before dinner, most hotels offer their own dinner service. Dining alfresco, under the fairy lights, is one of the best parts of this hotel stay. Double rooms range from €79 – €99. Book through their website and save yourself 5%!

Le Mas Des Carassins Hotel $$

Le Mas Des Carassins in an oasis in Saint Remy, just a few minutes from Les-Baux. The hotel is located inside an old stone farmhouse built in the 19th century. The private grounds, large swimming pool and lush gardens nestled in the tree-lined hillside all act as a stunning backdrop. Standard Rooms go for €112 – €152. If you’re looking for something more opulent and large, book yourself a suite, perfect for a week-long stay.

 

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Chateau De Roussan $$$

If you’re looking to splash out some extra cash and want to feel what it was like to live like a French courtier, then Chateau de Roussan is for you. This chateau is home to herds of sheep, beautiful parklands and, of course, the French countryside. I love that the chateau didn’t renovate everything to the extreme when turning the old manor into a guest hotel. They let the place feel lived in, making it feel homier than hotely. Double rooms cost between €205 – €255, and Suites run €335 – €415.

 

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Access

Driving

To arrive in Les-Baux from Arles, take the D17 highway through the scenic hillsides. From Avignon, take the D570N. Both ways take around 30-40mins but be prepared to stop along the way. There are so many little vignettes of French country life along the roadside, so take your time and soak in all those little roadside attractions.

Parking

When you arrive in Les-Baux, there is a free parking lot where you can leave your car for the day, which I’ve marked on the map at the bottom of the post. There are additional paid parking lots if this one is full, ranging from 4-5 euros for the entire day. So either way, leaving your car here while exploring is not too expensive.

Taxi

If you happen not to be travelling by car through Provence, various taxi companies can arrange to drive you out to Les-Baux and schedule a time to bring you home. Talk to the concierge at your hotel for more information. This should cost you about 30-50 euros each way. While it’s not a cheap option, it is super convenient if you don’t have another means of transportation.

Bus

If you prefer to take the bus, #59 from Saint Remy or Arles will take you to Les-Baux. The bus schedule is restricted and often not running outside the high tourist season. Tickets only cost 2,20€, so it’s worth looking into if the timing works. Check the schedule for more information. There are also tour bus companies that run day trips to Les-Baux. But I often find these are rushed and tend to make superfluous stops along the way when you’d much prefer to spend quality time in one place.

Walking Tour

After parking your car, head into the lower town. The villagers lived in the lower town when the castle was in full swing. The small streets and stone houses are home to various restaurants, tourist shops and museums. While some people complain that the tourist trade has invaded the humble town, plenty of history is still steeped in these walls. The key to exploring the lower town is to look past the tourist shops and poke your head into tiny, seemingly empty alleyways. Look up above the souvenir storefronts to see pieces of the past hidden in the stone walls.

Tourist Office

When you first enter the town, stop at the tourist office inside the city gates. Here you can get a free map of the city and a list of exhibitions and pick up an audio guide if you prefer to follow along with their guided audio system. Throughout the village and castle ruins, there are dozens of numbered plaques which you can punch into the audio guide to get more detailed insights into the history of Les-Baux.

Santon Museum

If you aren’t in a rush, your first stop should be at the Santon Museum. A ‘santon’ is a small hand-painted figure made out of terracotta. They were originally produced to portray scenes of nativity and depict historical scenes of Provençal life. Even if you’re not interested in going inside, walking around the front of the building is recommended since the museum is inside the old guardhouse. The building still houses two dungeons built in the 16th century that housed prisoners until the Revolution.

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Eyguieres Gate

Continuing along Place Louis Jou, turn right at the fork in the road and head down the stairs towards the Eyguieres Gate. Until the 18th century, this gate was the only entry point into the city. After the newly formed city gates were created, the Eyguieres Gate led the villagers toward the Fountain Valley below. Since there is little else to see and do down this way, the tourist crowds are much less intense here, and you’ll be surprised to see that you have this iconic place all to yourself.

Look up at the top of the gate, where you can still make out the coat-of-arms of the House of Grimaldi. The Italian Grimaldi family helped Louis XIII defeat the Spanish in the 16th century and were gifted the town of Les-Baux and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence as a reward for their service. Today, you can still find their coat of arms throughout the city.

Les Baux Jus

There aren’t many quality restaurants if you’re here around breakfast or lunch. Despite it being such a wonderful place to visit, the restaurants here leave much to be desired. There are a few exceptions, and Les Baux Jus is one of those. It might not be for everyone, but this charming cafe serves local, organic food and fresh juice. They also provide a gluten-free menu if you have that dietary restriction. While it might seem a little trendy, there really isn’t a better way to experience the natural splendour of Provençal produce than in its raw form.

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Manville Mansion City Hall

The next stop is Manville Mansion City Hall. The building originated in the 15th century and was created for a rich Protestant family named Manville. The mansion was the first Renaissance design which graced the village and, for the time, was considered very “modern.” Along the outside of the Mansion, you can study the luxurious millioned windows, which provide a huge amount of light into the interior, which was seen as a luxury in the Renaissance era. Later, after the Manville’s moved out of Les-Baux. The mansion was transformed into the new City Hall. Today, you can come inside to see various art exhibits on display.

Yves Brayer Museum

Turning to the right, head towards the Yves Brayer Museum. Brayer was an expressionist like Van Gogh, who spent most of his life in Les-Baux, inspired by the incredible landscapes surrounding him. Entry is €8 per person, but if you’re interested in expressionist paintings, this is a joyful little museum. The museum is inside one of the most magnificently preserved houses in town, which is a nice bonus.

Place St. Vincent

Just past the Brayer Museum is Place St. Vincent. In the centre of the square stands an ancient cross surrounded by lush green trees. On either side of the square are two of the oldest buildings in Les-Baux; St. Vincent Church and the Church of Penitent.

St. Vincent Church

St. Vincent’s is one of the three original town churches. This Romanesque church was built in the 12th century. While Romanesque architecture might not be the most impressive and elaborate, there is something so humbling about the simplicity of its design. Inside is a pure layout of a nave and two small side aisles complete with Romanesque arches. The funeral chapel inside the church is built right into the side of the rock. The chapel holds the remains of the Manville family whose mansion we saw earlier. The modern stained glass, added in the 20th century, gives a bright juxtaposition to the ancient rock and simplistic design.

The Church Of The Penitents

The Church of the Penitents was built in the 17th century for the Brotherhood of the White Penitents. The Brotherhood of the White Penitents was the most important sect of the Roman order and cared for the sick, buried the dead and provided medical services for the poor who could not afford private doctors. They even would raise money to give to poor girls for their doweries to ensure they could marry and provide a better life for their children than they were given. Before walking into the church, look up at the facade, where you can see the relief showing two of the penitents kneeling below the carving of a dove.

The church’s interior is very modest, but it might surprise you despite its size. Inside, the entire room is covered in an enormous mural by Yves Brayer. The mural depicts the Shepherds’ Christmas, painted in golden yellows and cobalt blues, synonymous with Provence.

Une Table Au Soleil

Before you head into the castle ruins, check to see if Une Table Au Soleil has any reservations left for dinner. It’s a cozy little restaurant with quality food at good prices, which is often hard to find in highly touristy areas. It’s a hidden gem in Les-Baux, serving traditional French cuisine on a charming outdoor terrace. Since there are only 12 seats, making a reservation before heading into the castle is advisable. Once you know the time of your reservations, you can make sure you leave the castle in good time.

The Castle of Les Baux

Admission

To enter the castle, you need to purchase an admission ticket. Adult tickets cost €8 during the off-season and € 10.50 during the high season when there are performances and entertainment as a part of your ticket. You can also buy a combined ticket with the Carrières de Lumières. I HIGHLY recommend this since going with the combined ticket will save you a few euros, and the Carrières de Lumières is a MUST-DO while in Les-Baux.

The castle’s admission gate is open from 9:00 am to sunset (check the website for the exact schedule). But once you are through the gate, you can stay as long as you want. Come the evening, there are so few tourists here you might think you have the entire place. Ghost hunters get a real kick out of exploring the area in the dark when the ruins are the perfect setting for spooky encounters. If you have the time, pack a picnic and enjoy the view as the sun sets behind the mountains.

History of the Castle

After winding your way through the narrow streets of the lower town, entering the castle is like taking a breath of fresh air. You walk out of the admissions office into the huge hilltop ruins. Before heading out to explore the vestiges of the castle, take a moment to imagine the power and influence this enormous castle would have had in its heyday. The Lord of Les-Baux in the middle ages controlled more than 80 villages around Provence. When Les-Baux became an official part of France, the King wanted to ensure they knew their place and destroyed the once-powerful fortress in 1426.

The King couldn’t bear the thought of anywhere in his country being more powerful than the throne where he sat. Although the Lords of Les-Baux attempted a few times to regain power, their castle was demolished for the last time in 1632. As the townspeople left, and the castle remained untouched, the French people referred to Les-Baux as the ‘ville morte’ or the dead town. The rubble remained untouched for ages until later in the 1900s when interest in these ancient sites became popular, and the tourist trade brought the city back to life. Say what you will about the cheesy souvenir shops and annoying tourists; tourism brought this forgotten town out of the darkness, and without money from tourism, preserving this ancient site wouldn’t be possible.

The Chapel Of Saint Blaise

The small chapel of Saint Blaise is the first building you see inside. This tiny chapel was built in the 12th century by the guild of weavers in honour of their patron Saint, Blaise. Walking inside, you might expect to see relics of the old church, but instead, the room has been remodelled as a small auditorium which plays the film ‘Provence from Above.’ While the film isn’t about the castle’s history, it is a loving homage to the landscapes of Provence and, if you’re here on a hot day, it is a nice escape from the sun.

Trebuchet

Walk out straight along the path towards the Costapera plateau. Along the way, you’ll pass a giant replica of a trebuchet. The trebuchet was a medieval siege machine used to attack fortified walls of opposing fortresses during times of war. Large objects were placed inside the trebuchet and catapulted long distances. This particular trebuchet inside the castle could launch boulders weighing 50-100kg over 200 meters!

Windmill

Continuing on the path, head towards the large windmill along the cliffside. The original mill dates back to 1652. Situated on the cliff’s edge, the windmill was exposed to the most powerful gusts of wind, and the town erected the mill here to utilize this natural force.

Costapera Plateau

Past the windmill, you can walk out to the view across the entire Costapera plateau. The plateau features a special calcareous rock, a particularly soft, easy-to-carve rock. It was used in Roman times to create sculptures, monuments and facades in many old Roman cities across Provence, particularly Arles. During the evening hours, when the tourists have all gone home, you can sit here and listen to the wind whipping across the landscape. It is immensely peaceful to sit here and simply listen to the music of the Provence.

The Charloun Rieu Monument

Walking back from the viewpoint, stop off at the Charloun Rieu monument. Charles Rieu, now known as Charloun dou Paradou, was a French poet in the 1900s who was influential in writing and reviving the Provencal language and culture. Looking out at the scenery here and touring Provence, you can see how different this part of the country is and how important their language would have been to distinguish themselves from the rest of France. It is no surprise why Charloun dou Paradou is so important.

Quiqueran Hospital

Walking back towards the main entrance, let’s take a minute to walk through the large remains of the Quiqueran Hospital. ‘Quiqueran’ meant charity house and was where the poor and the sick of the city were transferred and cared for. The hospital was run with funds from wealthy donors. It was built in the 16th century during the French Wars of Religion when hundreds of thousands of French people fought on the front lines. Families lost their heads of household and were left destitute, and often, the charity houses were the only place they could come to get food and medicine. Although it’s hard to imagine now since there are only a few walls left intact, this building used to have three large arched porticos and a second level where the main part of the hospital was located.

Battering Ram

As we turn in towards the castle’s courtyard we pass by the wooden battering ram. The ram is another reconstruction of the kind of warfare instruments which tAs we turn in towards the castle’s courtyard, we pass by the wooden battering ram. The ram is another reconstruction of the kind of warfare instruments the fortress used during its historical battles.he fortress used during its historic battles. 

The Troglodyte Houses

The “Baume de Roucas,” or rock caves, were a popular form of residence during the 16th century. Now named Troglodyte Houses, since Troglodyte refers to a person living inside a cave, these rudimentary houses have one of the best views in the entire castle. Although they are very simple and perhaps lack the flash and flourishes of the castle, I wonder if the peasants who once lived here appreciated the natural beauty their home backed out upon.

The Sarrasine Tower

Standing in the outer courtyard entrance, look up at the top of the Sarrasine tower, which overlooks the entire area. You can access a staircase from the other end of the courtyard that leads right out to this lookout point. The tower is known as the “guardian of the Château” since it is the highest point in the castle, where guards would be able to see any incoming invaders.

The Second Courtyard

Inside the second courtyard is where you’ll find the old residences of the craftsmen and farmers who lived inside the castle walls. During the high tourist season, actors in period costumes recreate life in the castle in the middle ages.

Dovecote Wall

During the middle ages, pigeons were one of the most popular forms of communication; therefore, the birds were treated like royalty. Their homes were called dovecotes, little niches carved into the rockface. The birds would lay their nests here, and the castle guards collected their eggs and young babies using huge ladders. You can still see the holes where the pigeons stayed even today, carved into the remains of the wall.

The First Courtyard

The first courtyard is further into the castle grounds, where the Lords and Ladies of the castle would have been found. You can still enter various floorplans of old aristocratic residences along the first courtyard, rooms carved out of solid rock. Walking inside, they are nothing more than cold, empty rooms but try to imagine them covered in rich velvet tapestries, filled with elaborately decorated furniture and a furry of servants peddling the finest food the province had to offer.

The Keep

At the top of the castle are the remains of the military keep. To prevent attackers from climbing up the side of the mountain and simply entering the castle, the castle’s walls on the vulnerable side of the mountain were built up another 20 meters and at the top, various guard towers were erected to further add another level of protection.

Walking along the top of the guard tower provides the best view of the entire castle and the surrounding countryside. When we visited, there were only a handful of other people around, and none ventured up as far as we did, so we had the entire place to ourselves! Imagine the courtyard below filled with courtiers and servants, jousts and jesters. Guards walking back and forth, head to toe, in the finest armour. It must have been such a sight to see.

Crossbow Practice

At the foot of the castle was a dry moat which has now been replaced with a reconstruction of where the archers would do their target practice. You can try your hand at shooting crossbows and watch professional archers take aim at various targets.

Graveyard

Before leaving, head out to the cliffside graveyard, where the tombstones of the old villagers of Les Baux are still being buried today. It is heartwarming to see families buried together here, generation upon generation.

While some might think graveyards are a bit macabre, these gravestones are a beautiful look into the past and how those generations honoured their dead.

Carrières de Lumières

Before heading out of Les Baux, be SURE to check out the Carrières de Lumières, just down the hill from the lower town. The Carrières de Lumières is a multimedia light show projected onto an ancient quarry’s walls.

Les-Baux is a place you cannot skip on your travels through Provence, and I hope you get the chance to experience everything this region has to offer for yourself on your next creative adventure.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of Les Baux-de-Provence first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. Do You Need to Buy Admission?
3. History of the Zwinger
4. Architecture of the Zwinger
5. Glockenspiel Pavilion
6. Nymphenbad
7. Museums inside the Zwinger

Access

The Zwinger Palace is located in the historic city center of Dresden, Germany. It is situated on Theaterplatz, near the Elbe River, and is surrounded by beautiful baroque gardens. You can access the Zwinger mostly by foot as Dresden is pretty small. But if you’re arriving from farther afield you can take the #8 Tram to the Theaterplatz stop. From there it’s only a one-minute walk to the gates of the Zwinger

Do You Need to Buy Admission?

To wander the grounds of the Zwinger and their gardens you don’t need to pay any admission as it is open to the public. But to view any of the galleries and museums located inside the buildings surrounding the grounds you’ll need to purchase a ticket.

History of the Zwinger

The Zwinger is, to this day, one of the most incredible baroque buildings in Germany. It was built for Augustus II the Strong. After returning from a grand tour through France and Italy in 1687, he explored King Louis XIV’s new court of Versailles and was eager to create a similar elaborate palace for himself in his hometown of Dresden.

The word ‘Zwinger‘ comes from the medieval German term for a fortress wall which protects a city. Archaeologists discovered that in the 12th century, the city’s fortification walls were once in this exact location. But since these fortifications were no longer needed, in the 16th century, Augustus had them torn down to make space for a new palace.

Augustus’ vision was six large pavilions connected by galleries which encircled a large courtyard. He called it a great festival space “whose ceiling is the sky.” The courtyard was made up of several gardens and an orangery. This would be the venue for any grande festivity held by the royal family. Some pavilions surrounding the courtyard were designed to house Augustus’ many royal collections of antiquities and art. 

The Zwinger was never meant to be a residence that was to come later, on the other side, closer to the Elbe. But Augustus died before he could oversee this construction, and that piece of land was left empty until the Semperoper House was built in 1841.

Architecture of the Zwinger

The Zwinger was built in the late baroque style called ‘Rococo’ by designer Pöppelmann in 1710-1728. The Zwinger was formally inaugurated in 1719 for the wedding of Prince Frederick August to Maria Josepha. The Rococo style embraced curves and elaborate ornaments but amped up the drama. Rococo added a sense of play to the designs. Rococo designers felt that architecture should have a sense of motion and used dramatic curves, making the viewer feel as though the building was alive. The Rococo style loved to emphasize piety. Plants and vines are featured prominently, carved into many parts of the Zwinger. 

Because the gardens were mainly for parties, it is no surprise that you’ll find statues or symbols of Bacchus everywhere you look. Bacchus is the Roman god of agriculture and wine. His followers are happily partying satyrs, which you’ll also find along the roofs and balconies of the Zwinger.

In addition to the bacchanalia, you’ll find richly decorative and whimsical figures, countless ornamental details pouring over every inch of the building and sculptures made by Balthasar Permoser and his assistant Paul Hermann.

The only place where the Zwinger breaks away from the Rococo aesthetic is its floor plan. The garden itself follows a geometric plan, and one side is a mirror image of the other. There is something very calming in symmetry, in particular against all the busy ornamentation that is going on around it.

Glockenspiel Pavilion

The Glockenspiel Pavilion southeast of the Zwinger is topped by a sculpture of Hercules. Hercules, holding the globe on his shoulders, is meant to reference Augustus 1st. The Glockenspiel building features a collection of porcelain bells made by the famous Meissen porcelain factory. The carillon of bells plays a melody every 15 minutes. The songs depend on the seasons and include Vivaldi, Mozart, and Bach pieces. Meissen was a town only about 25 km from Dresden and created some of the finest quality porcelain outside of Asia and was the first European porcelain factory when it opened in 1710.

During WWII, the buildings of the Zwinger were almost entirely eviscerated. The art from the collections had been previously removed before the bombings. But the rubble that was left meant a huge restoration job to open the Zwinger back up to the public as it once was.

Nymphenbad

The Nymphenbad can be found tucked away in the North West corner of the Zwinger. It is a small enclosed courtyard with a baroque fountain. Traditionally, in the Roman period, Nymphenbads were monuments consecrated to the nymphs and tritons/ They were a place to celebrate and relax. Back here, you can escape the hustle and bustle of the central gardens and find a moment of peace. It is also here that you’ll locate the staircase leading to the 2nd-storey walkway surrounding the Zwinger.

Although August the Strong has been dead for many years, his presence can still be felt in these gardens. He wanted to create a space for his people to celebrate Dresden and all its glory. Many Kings rejected or looked down on the everyday people. But Augustus was a man of the people and seemed to want to invite them into his life.

Museums inside the Zwinger

Once inside the Zwinger, you can visit one of their three incredible galleries. The Old Masters Picture Gallery contains an exquisitely, curated collection some of the best European Old Masters. The Dresden Porcelain Collection is a collection of Asian and Meissen porcelain designs from the 16th-19th century. The Mathematical and Physical Instruments Gallery has some of the most interesting scientific instruments that helped astrologists from as early as the 16th century discover the secrets of the universe.

The Zwinger Palace in Dresden is a true gem, rich in history and architecture. From its beautiful baroque gardens to its impressive collections housed within, the Zwinger is a must-visit for anyone interested in art, history, and culture. I loved simply strolling through the grounds going to-and-from our day-to-day activities. I hope you find it to be equally as charming!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Discover the Awe-Inspiring Architecture of the Zwinger Palace in Dresden first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.