About L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is known as the “Venice of Provence” to many locals. Moss-covered water wheels sparkly in the morning sunlight. These water wheels are an important historical icon of the city. Back in the 12th century, the rivers were primarily used for fishing, which was the biggest industry in the city. The first houses built in the area were built on stilts, just like in Venice! Even today, the village still honours their fishing heritage by hosting a festival on the third Sunday in July. Its hosted by the brotherhood of Pescaire Lilien (fishers of the Isle) and features demonstrations of the ancient fishing techniques. If you happen to be in the area around the time of the festival, don’t miss checking it out!

Water Wheels

After the fishing industry disappeared and moved closer to the coasts, the city turned to the textile industry. They used the river to power the water wheels used for silk, tanneries, and paper mills. There are still 14 remaining water wheels around the city, and it’s really fun trying to find them all as you explore. I’ve added them all to the map in this guide if you want to easily find them all.

Today the industry is primarily powered by antiques and sightseers perusing the ancient streets. Gorgeous, rustic french houses are still on show on either side of the river. They seem to beam with excitement, green trees hang over sidewalks and even the alleyways smell of freshly baked bread permeating the air.

Table Of Contents

1. About L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
   • Water Wheels
2. Where is the Market?
3. When is the Market?
4. Getting There
5. How Long to Spend at the Market?
6. Bring Cash
7. French Tips
8. Self-Guided Walking Tour of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
   • Café de France
   • Place de la Liberté
   • Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges de L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
   • Rue Rose Goudard
   • Quai Jean Jaurès
   • Avenue des Quatre Otages – Antique Market
   • What to Avoid in the Market?
   • Picnic in Public Garden

Where is the Market?

The Market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is located along the Sorgue river in Southeastern France. Just west of Avignon in the Vaucluse région of Provence. The gorgeous market is located around the Place de la Liberté, Place Ferdinand Buisson, Rue Carnot, Rue de la République and on Place Rose Goudard.

When is the Market?

The Market is held every Thursday and Sunday, but the Sunday market is far superior. On Sundays, you can find what the french call a “brocante” also called a flea market! Some market stalls open as early as 6 am, but most stalls will open around 8 am and close at 2 pm. The cheapest prices of the day can be found just before closing as sellers often try to get rid of their produce before heading home.

Getting There

By Train

If you are planning on taking the train, the station is a short walk from the market. I prefer taking the train if I’m staying nearby as this means you never need to worry about finding a parking spot! You’ll want to find trains on their way towards L’Isle-sur-Sorgue—Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. Luckily Avignon has a direct train to L’Isle-sur-Sorgue, which only takes 36 minutes. From other cities like Arles, Marseille, Aix-en-Provence and Orange, the trip is just over an hour with a straightforward change. Tickets cost anywhere between 10€ and 30€ depending on your starting location.

By Car

L’Isle-sur-Sorgue is located at the intersection of the D31, D901 and D938 highways. This makes it an easy drive from a myriad of surrounding towns. The only downside of driving is finding a parking spot but that can easily be remedied by arriving early.

Parking

Parking is a premium, so I would advise arriving before 8 am. This ensures a nice spot close to the market and less stress! Watching the vendors magically unfurl their goods into a full-on shop front is one of the best parts of the day. If you arrive late, there often aren’t parking spots available. So you’ll find yourself driving around and around, waiting for someone to leave. If all the vendors are still setting up, head out to find an open coffee shop. I highly recommend Café de France! After nabbing some caffeine and a snack, find a quiet spot on the grass along the river. Here you can enjoy a bit of quiet before the hustle and bustle of the busy market erupt.

Remember: be sure not to leave any valuables in your car. Since this is a popular tourist spot, there is always a chance that someone could break in. Best to make sure not to give them any reason to do so and keep the interior empty.

How Long to Spend at the Market?

I would advise at least three hours to spend in the market. The antique area alone is bound to cast a spell on you. You’ll find yourself just immersed in a treasure hunt! And making your way around the food market and creating your own DIY picnic is the best way to enjoy the goodies you find along the way. Rushing in and out doesn’t allow you to truly appreciate the amazing things on sale in this charming market.

Bring Cash

If you’re waiting for the market to open, be sure to stop by an ATM. Or bring lots of cash with you. The vendors will almost always only accept cash, and it’s good to get enough to last you throughout the day. Since it gets so busy here, it is common for ATMs to run out of money by midday. Keep that in mind.

French Tips

One key thing to making good with the vendors is knowing a bit of French.  Although the vendors interact with tourists often, it’s nice to show them a bit of respect. Even a simple please (s’il vous plaît) or thank you (merci) goes a long way. And a warm greeting of “bonjour” is required to be considered polite. If you want to ask the price of something, simply say “c’est combine?” And remember if you don’t want to interrupt or be extra considerate, you can always say “excuse moi” before trying to interject. All these little sayings will go a long way to indear yourself to the vendor for even trying!

Self-Guided Walking Tour of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Café de France

To start your morning in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, head to grab a coffee at the somewhat famous Café de France. This Art Nouveau coffee shop is the oldest cafe on the Isle, and you can feel the historic atmosphere just walking inside. The counter is stained with water rings from orders past and the charming posters on the walls reflect the ages gone by. Large tarnished mirrors between dark wooden panelling make this place a quintessential brasserie.

If there’s space on the outdoor terrace grab a table. The people-watching opportunities here are amazing, as you can catch vendors on their way to the market, arms full of their goods ready to be set up! Although the food is slightly overpriced, this is often the price you pay to dine inside history!

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Place de la Liberté

Place de la Liberté is one of my favourite little streets in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. So even if you don’t find you need a coffee, I still implore you to walk along this street to enjoy the incredible street signage and old French shops. Colourful window shutters line the second floors, while wrought-iron awnings protect the gorgeous painted exteriors along the street!

Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges de L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Walking along Place de la Liberté you have a view, albeit from the side, of the great Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges de L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. While the exterior is a bit austere, you absolutely must head inside! Even if just for a moment, you need a quick peek at the incredible architecture found within.

The original Romanesque church was built in 1222. But the shock and awe of this building lie in the baroque-era decorations that adorn almost every surface inside. Gilded altarpieces, detailed sculptures, ribbed vaulting, rich paintings and fantastical frescos awe and inspire the visitors. As you enter, your eyes will be darting all over the room, trying to take it all in! Although we came here for the market, this church is NOT to be missed, even if just for a moment.

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The primary colour scheme within the church is blue and gold, a popular pairing for baroque Provençale.

Rue Rose Goudard

Head back outside and along the Place de L’Eglise. Often there are a few stands just starting to open up along this street. More appear as you continue south-east along Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. But the largest selection of fresh food can mostly be found collected along the Rue Rose Goudard. Seasonal fruit and vegetables, charcuterie and olives pour out of charming wood and thicker baskets under brightly coloured awnings. Vegetables almost beam with brilliance they are so vibrantly coloured. You can’t help but want to try a piece of them all!

What to Buy in the Market?

So what to buy? One of the best things to do is gather items for a picnic luncheon. Fresh sausage is one of the best items in the market. Packed with incredible spices and made from some of the best meats in France, these cured delights are a must-grab!

The produce is some of the best in the country here in Provence. Melons, peppers, strawberries and cherries are as bright as they are juicy. Vendors often have samples out in front, so you can try whichever one catches your fancy.

If you’re looking for something to bring home, there is an assortment of olive oils in beautifully designed bottles. But if you just want something to nosh on today, olives are another great Provencal treat! Plus, they are a great addition to the rest of your picnic goods. You can combine all different varieties, perfect for sampling a bit of everything. 

The French are KNOWN for their cheese and bread! There perhaps isn’t a more iconic image of French dining. The cheese on offer here in the market is just as good as any luxury grocery store and often twice as fresh.

If you’re staying for a few days, grab a bouquet of flowers to brighten up your hotel room. The smell and colours are unforgettable!

Quai Jean Jaurès

As you continue wandering towards the Sorgue River, you’ll exit onto Quai Jean Jaurès. This street is where the market continues but where it transforms into more souvenir-type items. Everything from wooden kitchen utensils, textiles, handicrafts and clothes can be found here.

Dried lavender is sold in bags and bouquets all over the market. This is the perfect souvenir to bring home. In a sachet, it keeps the clothing in your drawers smelling fresh and of those memories from Provence. Grabbing a bundle of dried lavender is great to display but can be hard to transport home in one piece!

Soap is another thing you’ll see hundreds of shops selling. All in different designs and prices. Check to see if it was made in Provence before buying! You want the real thing. There will often be a discount if you buy in bulk, making great gifts for anyone back at home.

Avenue des Quatre Otages – Antique Market

The pop-up antique brocante vendors are located on the south side of the river, along the Avenue des Quatre Otages. A tip for shopping here is that haggling isn’t common and neither is getting a good deal. But the selection is great, and I found plenty at prices I thought were more than fair for the quality. The prices are often very well labelled, so even if you don’t speak French you should be able to shop without having to ask to vendors for pricing. Remember, if you see something you love, buy it right away. As it might be gone before you have the chance to return.

Best Antique Finds?!

Although things like furniture might not be able to fit into your suitcase, there are lots of smaller items which are worth considering. Many different vendors sell beautiful prints taken from old manuscripts and books. Once framed, make for a one-of-a-kind souvenir. 

Textiles are another great thing to keep an eye out for. Napkins, tablecloths, purses and blankets are often beautifully embroidered. They are sometimes even monogrammed – so keep an eye out, and you might even find one that matches your name!

What to Avoid in the Market?

Now, what are the best items to buy in the market? And what to avoid? The stuff to avoid is quite obvious – anything that isn’t decidedly French. Keep an eye out for “made in China” stickers on clothing, ceramics and even some textiles. I was surprised how many pieces of pottery I came across that were simply painted and not provencal in the slightest bit.

Picnic in Public Garden

After grabbing all you can carry, head back down the river and find a nice spot under the trees in the Public Garden. The park features tons of grassy patches to lay out with your delicious selection of the day. On Sundays, musicians stroll around, playing to entertain the visitors.

Along the river’s edge, painters are set up with their oils and pencils. Sketching the iconic scenery. Watching them work while enjoying your French meal makes for a darling little afternoon treat. Listening to the water wheels peddling in the distance.

This brings us to the end of the self-guided tour of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. If you want to extend your stay, consider simply wandering through the backstreets. While the market might have the biggest draw, the charming little houses in some unassuming back alleys contain some of the most iconic French sights you’ll see in Provence. Bright window shutters contrast the aging patina of the beige buildings. Cheerful street cats prowl around every corner. Secrets to be found wherever you go!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Ultimate Guide to Spectacular L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Market [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Stroopwaffels

Stroopwaffels are my top Dutch treat! There is no competition. Stroopwaffels are wafer-thin cookies with a layer of ooey-gooey caramel syrup layered in between. The dish was invented in nearby Gouda, but the Amsterdam chefs perfected the recipe. The best way to eat then is to hot off the griddle. You can find Stroopwaffel stands all over the place but especially in marketplaces. When they are free the waffle is still slightly bendy, and the caramel in the center is almost runny. Sounds messy but its honestly the best way to eat them! Just grab some napkins.

Although stroopwafels are inarguably delicious, my affinity for the cookie is also very personal and hilarious. When I left Amsterdam I bought a large package of Stroopwaffels to bring home to my family. After travelling for hours, I arrived on the Danish island of Aero, only to find every single restaurant was closed. And I hadn’t eaten all day! Thankfully I had my Stroopwaffels to keep me satiated until the next morning. Even now, when I eat them, I get a warm and fuzzy feeling remember that night in Aero. These prepackaged cookies are great for souvenirs too, not just to scarf down in the middle of the night! Dip them in your coffee in the morning to keep memories of your trip alive long after you get home.

Pickled Herring

Pickled Herring is one of the most famous items people will tell you “you must eat,” while in Amsterdam. Before you turn your nose up at it, try thinking of it simply as the “sushi” of the Netherlands. The shallow coastlines around Amsterdam are the preferred breeding ground for schools of tiny herring. Fishermen for hundreds of years have been throwing their nets offshore to bring in piles of delicious fish. Dutch fishermen learned early on that they could salt the fish to preserve it. Not only did this allow the fish to keep in the pantry for longer, but it also meant they could transport it for sale across Europe in the middle ages. A huge financial boom for the Dutch economy.

The best way for newbies to try the dish is as Broodje Haring (or a Herring Sandwich.) The pickled herring is sliced thinly and served on a soft bun covered in pickles and onions. The fish pairs perfectly with the onions and pickles and make for a delicious cold summer sandwich. Of course, some people eat the herring without the bun, but they never forget the pickles and onion!

Bittenballen

Bitterballen are small fried balls of beef ragu. Biting into them releases the oily sweet and salty meat hidden inside a lightly breaded crispy exterior. It is one of the countries favourite snacks and perfectly paired with a pint of beer and a huge side of mustard. The word “bitter” means beer, and “ballen,” well, of course, means balls. So they are, in fact, beer balls. Be careful eating them hot from the kitchen as the molten hot center can burn your mouth if you try to down them too quickly.

Cheese Tasting

While Gouda is the most popular name in cheese in Amsterdam, it is certainly not the only variety. Gouda was first recorded as being manufactured in the Netherlands in 1184! This makes it Europe’s oldest cheese type. One of the reasons that the name “Gouda” is so well known is not just because of the taste. But also because of the town for which it is named after; Gouda. In the middle ages, the town of Gouda was given feudal rights on cheese markets. Feudal right meant that Gouda was the only place in the Netherlands where cheese was allowed to be sold. Essentially giving the city the monopoly on the market. As a result, every farmer would bring their cheese to the Gouda city market square. And once a week, buyers would meet here to haggle on the best prices for cheese from around the Netherlands.

To get some in-depth knowledge about cheeses from the Netherlands, you should try to book a cheese tasting. Skip the so-called “Cheese Museum” as this tourist trap is far from serving up the good stuff. Instead, head to the Fromagerie Abraham Kef. Abraham Kef was a pioneer of cheese in Amsterdam. He opened his shop here in 1953. Ever since he has been serving his customers only the best from local farmers and a smaller selection of international cheeses as well. You can book a cheese tasting to explore a variety of fantastic artisanal cheese served alongside cold cuts, exquisite wines and seasonal beers. All these parties make the taste of the cheese come alive in a different fashion and make for such a better experience.

FEBO

Long before I visited Amsterdam, I had read all about FEBO. While in school I was tasked to write an essay on the history and modern incarnations of vending machines. And while researching, the name “FEBO” came up again and again. So when I finally got the chance to travel to Amsterdam, I was so excited to finally visit this shop.

While FEBO looks like a modern, trendy innovation, it is over 50 years old! The shop opened in 1941 as the first “automat” restaurant in the Netherland. Automats had caught on around the rest of the world, starting in Germany in 1895. Originally named Quisisana, these fast food vending machines could operate 24 hours a day and didn’t need front counter staff. Instead, the food would be loaded into the warming machines from the back kitchen. Then customers only had to place a coin in the slot to open up the machine to access the food within.

To this day, FEBO serves up popular Dutch fried food like krokets, frikandellen, hamburgers, Kaassoufflés, french fries and more. The machines still work just as they did in 1941. The retro look, in addition to the addictive food, is what keeps people coming back! Don’t worry about the food not being fresh, each of the items are thrown away if they are not consumed within the hour.

Kroket

If you are visiting FEBO, make sure you try their Kroket. The kroket is a Dutch delicacy made from meat covered in breadcrumbs and then deep-fried. The most traditional type of meat would be beef or veal, but a popular variety is also shrimp or even chicken satay! Sometimes kroket are served with white bread or buns to sop up the greasy and are best paired with a dollops of mustard!

Kapsalon

Kapsalon was first invented in Rotterdam in 2003, but the cheap and highly filling fast food caught on like wildfire in Amsterdam. It is the perfect post-drinks food to prevent a whopping hangover. This isn’t item haute cuisine, but it’s more than worth checking out as locals swear by it! The dish consists of a layer of french fries covered in melted gouda, topped with gyro meat, green salad, garlic sauce, and sambal! Samal is a variety of hot sauces originally brought back from the former Dutch colony of Indonesia. Sambal is found in almost every fridge in Amsterdam so you need to make sure you get this topping. While Kapsalon is a hefty 1800 calories per dish, it makes for a great sharable meal!

Pannekoek

Pannekoek, or Dutch Pancakes, are one of the most customizable meals you can get in Amsterdam. No matter what you like, there is a pancake out there for you. Even Gluten-free and dairy-free diets are taken into account at places like Pancakes Amsterdam! Pannekoek is nothing like our North American pancakes. They are large, the size of a large dinner plate. The batter is spread thin but not quite as thin as a French crepe. Then you can add everything from apples, syrup, cheese, ham and more into the batter while your Pannenkoek cooks. They can be rolled up to be eaten on the go or served with a fork and knife while relaxing at the table. Although we might think of Pannekoek as breakfast food, these inexpensive and filling pastries hit the spot any time of day!

Dutch Fries

While it’s true that French Fries come from Belgium, the Dutch have perfected it. Dutch fries are thick-cut; short and stubby. They come served in a paper cone and topped with more than just ketchup. The Dutch are obsessed with condiments, and this is a country after my own heart. Half my fridge is just condiments so walking into a fry shop here and being met with a wall of condiments was music to my ears. Everything from mayo, peanut sauce, curry ketchup (my fave) and the previously mentioned sambal hot sauce can be added onto your pile of potatoes.

Appeltaart

Appeltaart is Dutch apple pie and is like American apple pie turned up to eleven! Pie is truly NOT an American invention, and the Dutch have been serving up slices for centuries. The Appeltaart is baked in a springform pan to allow the crust to climb up high up to contain the mountains of thick apple slices. The crust is crumbly and perhaps more like a cake batter than a pie crust. The filling is drier than the North American apple pies. Added to the recipe is lots of cinnamon and always accompanied by a shot of rum or brandy.

The recipe dates back to 1514, and the dessert was so popular it was even portrayed as early as 1626 in still life paintings. The dessert is often served with a large dollop of whipped cream and pairs perfectly with a warm cup of coffee. Be European and eat pie for breakfast!

Brown Cafes

Although this isn’t technically food, your foodie experience in Amsterdam is complete without visiting a Brown Cafes. Bruin cafés, aka brown cafes, are a staple in any Dutch city. The name comes from the fact that these old bars would have walls stained brown from the tobacco smoke. Layered after years and years of smoking patron drinking long into the evening. To hid the smoke-stained, many of these bars covered the walls in dark wood which would hide the smoke and they are always dimly lit. These days, thankfully most bars have banned smoking inside. But the idea of the brown cafes continues today with pubs filled with eclectic vintage furniture, ambient atmosphere and of course, great food and drinks! Brown Cafes are a great place to grab a local draft beer while enjoying the sound of locals chatting amongst themselves.

Jenever

If beer isn’t your thing, then you should ask the bartender for a Jenever. Jenever is a distilled spirit similar to gin, made from juniper berries but has a slightly different flavour as the original recipe included lots of medicinal herbs. Originally it was formulated in pharmacies as a curative drink that was thought to aid in digestion and inflammation. It is one of the country’s signature drinks and comes served inside a cute tulip-shaped glass. Many people love to enjoy a glass of jenever alongside a slide of herring.

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Rijsttafel

Indonesia was once a colony of the Netherlands back in the middle ages. One of the favourite imports Dutch travellers brought back with them was Indonesian spices and cuisine. More and more immigrants from Indonesia came to the Netherlands and over the years they began opening up restaurants. One of the most famous types of meals to eat is Rijsttafel. Rijsttafel means “the rice table.” A pretty good description as the meal consists of various meats, veggies, and fish dishes, all served atop beds of steamed rice. And when I say “a variety,” I mean a HUGE variety. Some restaurants serve over 40 different dishes with their rijsttafel meals. As someone who loves to try a little bit of everything off a menu, this is my dream kinda cuisine. And a nice break from all the fried Dutch food.

Spekkoek

Another dish originally from Indonesia is Spekkoek. Spekkoek has cemented itself into the heart of Dutch people and is one of the best bakery items to pick up and enjoy while picnicking in the park. The dessert is made of multiple layers of cake made with a mixture of Indonesian spices. Each thin layer of cake is separated with another thin layer of cream. The cake’s name comes from the words “spek,” which means fat and “koek” which means cake. So it translates to “fat cake.” This is because the different light and dark layers of cake and cream are thought to resemble a strip of fatty bacon!

I hope this guide gave you lots of ideas of food items to try on your next trip to the Northlands! Make a list and check each item off as you go to make a little game of it as you travel. Let me know in the comments if I missed any of your favourite foods.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

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