Church - The Creative Adventurer https://thecreativeadventurer.com A Travel Guide for Exploring the World Wed, 18 Jun 2025 17:44:19 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 https://i0.wp.com/thecreativeadventurer.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/cropped-NewCreativeAdventurerLogo_250x250_v1.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Church - The Creative Adventurer https://thecreativeadventurer.com 32 32 171399271 The Ultimate Guide to Visiting Skansen’s Historic Christmas Market in Stockholm [UPDATED 2023] https://thecreativeadventurer.com/why-you-need-to-visit-skansens-historic-christmas-in-stockholm/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=why-you-need-to-visit-skansens-historic-christmas-in-stockholm https://thecreativeadventurer.com/why-you-need-to-visit-skansens-historic-christmas-in-stockholm/#respond Sun, 30 Aug 2020 16:25:31 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com/?p=17484 If you find yourself in Stockholm during December, there is one thing you absolutely must do, and...

The post The Ultimate Guide to Visiting Skansen’s Historic Christmas Market in Stockholm [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> If you find yourself in Stockholm during December, there is one thing you absolutely must do, and that is to visit the Skansen open-air museum! The bonfires spread throughout the park surrounded by traditional Christmas music floating through the air, and the smell of mulled wine (or glogg as they call it in Sweden) mixed with freshly baked bread is so intoxicating it can get anyone into the Christmas spirit! Suppose you’re lucky enough to visit on a snowy day? In that case, it is genuinely the most picturesque place to spend a winter’s morning!

I had been clamouring to visit Skasen at Christmas ever since my last visit to Stockholm. This park’s themeing changes throughout the year, and there is always something new to experience. Even if you’ve been before, visiting during a particular time of the year, especially a holiday, will always bring about new activities to explore, and you’ll be able to dive into one specific part of Swedish history.

Skansen might seem like it might be more for children, but I found that there was so much to see here for adults, especially those with a heightened sense of wonder and curiosity. Walking in the gates of Skansen allows you to transport yourself back in time to experience Sweden of years past before there were iPhones or wifi. When questions were answered by the people you knew, not the internet. Every baker, farmer, ironworker or shopkeeper here in Skansen will eagerly answer all your questions! Skansen is a place that piques your sense of questioning and intrigue and allows you to feel that sense of childish wonder once more.

Guide to Skansen
  1. History
  2. Visitor Information
  3. Self-Guided Tour of Skansen
  4. Christmas Market at Skansen

History

Skansen was established in 1891. It was initially proposed as a way of preserving historic buildings that were in the process of being torn down throughout the country, replaced by more modern incarnations.  Artur Hazelius, a former teacher, had become one of the country’s most prolific conservators. Hazelius had previously funded the construction of the Nordic Museum on the island of Djurgården. During a visit to King Oscar II’s open-air museum in Kristiania, Hazelius was inspired to create his own minature version of historic Sweden here in Stockholm.

Hazelius himself travelled around Sweden, collecting and selecting the most iconic houses and buildings to save and bring to his museum. Almost all of the buildings you see inside the park are original structures. Each one was carefully taken apart from elsewhere in the country and rebuilt here in Skansen. No modern techniques were used in any of the reconstructions to preserve the authenticity of the structure. Only three of the buildings you’ll see in Skanse are new constructions. Even these were made with traditional techniques, using historical floorplans and blueprints.

Visitor Information

Hours & Admission

Especially during Christmas, the park can get very busy, so it’s advisable to buy your tickets in advance. But if you arrive early in the morning and enter via the entrance mentioned below, you shouldn’t have to wait too long to get inside and buy your tickets.

Adults: 220kr ($25 USD)
Students & Seniors : 200 kr ($22 USD)
Children 4-15: 70 kr ($8 USD)
Children 0-3: free

Skansen is open from 10:00 am – 3:00 pm on weekdays, and 10:00 am – 4:00 pm on weekends.

The Christmas season at Skansen runs from the end of November into the first week of January. However, if you want to see the incredible Christmas Market, it is only open Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 26 November until 19 December. Check the website for exact details.

Location & Access

Skansen is located on the island of Djurgården. While it is possible to get here on foot and public transit, I think the best way to get to Skansen is via the ferry! I love the short but scenic journey onto Djurgården island on the ferry. The ferry number which will get your onto the island is ‘Djurgården 82‘. 

If you are taking public transit, hop on the tram #7 or #13 to arrive at the front gates. 

To get there on foot is a pretty enjoyable walk if you’re interested in taking the scenic route. Make your way to the Djurgårdsbron bridge, which will quickly lead you onto the island. From there, head along the sidewalk, enjoying the views of all the other museums on the island until you reach Skasen’s front gates.

Hazelius’ funicular entrance

There are two entrances to the park. One is called the ‘Hazelius’ entry, which is where you’ll find the old funicular. While Hazelius’ funicular entrance is perhaps a fun experience, this old method of transporting visitors up the hill is a relatively slow one. Far fewer people can enter the park via this entrance at one time. The funicular also costs 30 SK per adult. 

Djurgårdsvägen Entrance

The other entrance is further along Djurgårdsvägen. Use this entrance to get inside as it’s line moves much quicker than the previous one. Plus, the Djurgårdsvägen gate will lead you into the park right up to our guided tour’s starting point. Plus, the entry at Djurgårdsvägen is directly across from a tram station, making transit to the park super simple. 

Accessibility

If you are in a wheelchair or have mobility issues, you can take the funicular up the hill free of charge. While the Hazelius’ funicular entrance is slower, it’s much much less strenuous. Many of the Skansen’s paths aren’t paved, so if you do not have a powered wheelchair, you might find you need to work a little harder around those rougher areas. There are ramps and elevators around the park to help you get around. Most of the buildings have been adapted to provide wheelchair and disabled access. They also offer free wheelchair rentals with a valid ID.

Accessible washrooms can be found at the main entrance, the Hazelius entrance, at the Forestry Center and behind the Högloftet.

Guide dogs are allowed in the park for disabled guests. They must wear a designated vest and have proper proof of vaccination since other animals in Skansen need to be protected.

When to Visit

The best time to visit the park is right when it opens! There is SO much to do here, and since on most days, the park is only open until 3 pm, its best to arrive early to maximize your experience. During the winter months, it also gets dark really early in the day, as early as 2 pm! Coming first thing in the morning will mean you can explore the park both during the daylight and after the sun goes down.

One of Skansen’s most unique events during the Christmas season is the St. Lucia celebration. St. Lucia (or Saint Lucy) was made a martyr after since brought food and aid to Christians hiding in the Roman catacombs. She wore on her head a candlelit wreath to light her way in the darkness, which allowed her hands to carry as much food as possible. Her feast day, which coincides with the shortest day of the year, is widely celebrated as a festival of light, and the festival in Skansen is a great way to celebrate this momentous Swedish tradition. The other event not to be missed here is Skansen’s, Christmas Market. The market starts on the first weekend of advent and runs until December 22nd. Check their calendar for the exact dates.

How Long to Spend

I would advise you to spend at LEAST three hours inside the park. But if you like shopping (like me), I could have spent a good three hours shopping alone! The Christmas market is such a great place to buy unique Christmas presents. If you have kids, they will really enjoy the animals at Lil Zoo within the open-air museum. Christmas time is busy at Skansen, and many of the historic buildings are relatively small. You might need to line up or return later to get inside and explore the scenes within. Remember, don’t try to rush through the park. Take your time and allow yourself to follow your interests or anything which excites you.

Essential Tips

If you have any questions along the way or just want to chat more about something you’re engrossed in, head right up to one of the people dressed in costume. They are happy to speak to you and will stay in character the whole time. Everyone speaks both Swedish and reasonably good English so don’t be shy!

Dress warmly. Most of the park is outdoors, and even the indoor buildings on the property don’t have central heating, so you must dress for winter success. I would recommend thermal layers that can go under your regular clothes, which help retain the heat but don’t require a wardrobe overhaul.

Your entry into the open-air museum will cover all access throughout the park, but things like food and souvenirs can rack up quite the cost as you’ll find out. Set yourself a budget. Skansen is a little bit like a historic Swedish Disneyland. You’ll want to have some money set aside to indulge in various traditional treats and buy some great keepsakes.

Self-Guided Tour of Skansen

After entering the park, head up the escalator to the left of the stairs. This will lead you to Skansen’s Old Town Quarter. This is a replica of what a Swedish town would have looked like at the turn of the century. 

At Christmas time, the entire street smells like a giant campfire. Large bonfires are placed throughout the park to create a more enchanting atmosphere and help guests keep warm!

Glasswork Shop

Stop in on the left into the Glassworks building. Here, you can see craftspeople at work, demonstrating how glass Christmas ornaments were made. Glasswork was a massive industry in Sweden in the 19th century. The area between Växjö and Kalmar was once known as the “glass district,” and their wares were world-famous. Although other European cities would eventually overtake the market, it is interesting to learn about this art period in Sweden. A small shop is attached to the studio where you can also purchase some handmade ornaments for yourself!

The Potter Workshop

Inside this traditional workshop, you can see the old potter at work. Inside the studio, craftspeople make mugs, jugs and pots right in front of excited guests. After chatting in here, you can even head into the gift shop adjacent to buy some items made on-site using only old-school techniques. The various products’ designs have been modelled off original designs that that were brought for preservation to Skansen. Mugs and vases are always great Christmas gifts, and this is a gift with a great story behind it!

Bageriet

If you see a line out the door, this is no doubt the old bakery or Bageriet. I would still advise lining up even if it’s a bit of wait since backtracking back here is a pretty lengthy process. And these treats are really worth the wait! The bakery building is from 1870. Entering into the hot and smokey interior, you’ll notice that the room is dominated by the large brick oven. To get these ovens up to the proper temperature took hours. Once the oven was hot enough, it needed to be carefully maintained to not lose any heat. Bakers often work 16 hour days along with their apprentices, to create all the baked goods to feed a hungry city.

During the Christmas season, the bakery here bakes over 6,000 Pepparkakor cookies. These cookies are one of the most iconic seasonal treats eaten by Swedes. They are similar to gingersnaps but are much spicier as they do contain pepper (just like the name indicates)! A souvenir tin of these cookies is a perfect gourmet souvenir from Skansen. 

Another item baked inside the Bageriet is lussekatter. You can watch bakers rolling out large sheets of golden dough ready to be formed into their popular “s” shape design. Lussekatter are saffron buns traditionally eaten on December 13th to celebrate St. Lucia (the patron Saint of Light). The buns shape resembles a cat curled up in a ball, and the raisins are placed as its’ eyes.

The Printer’s Shop

At the end of the quarter is the Printer’s shop, inside an old building from 1740. Here, you can see how books and papers were printed as late as the first part of the 19th century. This building contains enormous pieces of equipment used to hand-set type and rolls out the local newspapers across the country! As a designer, I shudder to think how long and painstaking it must have been to hand-place each lead letter to create one page of text alone!

At the back of the workshop, there are beautiful engravings on display, used to create Christmas cards. Designs would be etched unto a rubber piece, which was then inked (just like the type was in the newspaper room) and stamped onto the paper cards. You can even take a free souvenir card with you from the collection they have there.

Printer’s home

Inside the Printer’s home, connected to the workshop, you can see a young couple who has prepared a Christmas dinner typical of the 1840s. Many of the early Swedish celebrations were influenced by pagan festivals. These included a midwinter celebration called “Jul,” where the aim was to eat and drink well. They baked bread and drank ale, still apart of traditional Christmas celebrations today! In this scene, you might notice that there is no Christmas tree to be found. This is because the custom of a Christmas tree wouldn’t be imported to Sweden until the 1880s. 

Ironmonger & his Apartments

Besides, the cafe is the Ironmonger apartments. The ironmonger owns the hardware store in Skansen, located nearby inside an old building from 1930. He made goods for all the farmers, builders and households in town and therefore did quite well for himself and his family. His apartments are considered very modern for the 1930s. Inside, you can find all the mod-cons such as a water closet, electric stove and even a vacuum cleaner! During the Christmas season, his family is even baking cookies inside their brand new electrical oven!

During the winter holiday, you can visit the ironmonger’s apartment and see the family prepare their ice skating field trip with a packed lunch and warm clothing. In the ’30s, people started to have more leisure time to spend with their families. 

Co-Op Store

Be sure to step inside the Co-Op grocery store Konsum. This is a 1930’s recreation of where locals would come to buy everything from butter, margarine, beer, soft drinks and sweets. You can also still buy some of these items from the shop, such as Christmas cookies. During the 30s Sweden had begun to embrace cooperative solutions as a way of changing society. 

Herb Garden

Although there is not much to see in the Herb Garden during the winter, the view over Stockholm from this point is fantastic as it is one of the highest points in the park. Although it was a bit misty out when we visited, the eerie sight was still something to admire!

Café Petissan

If you feel the need to escape into the indoors’ warmth, head inside the Café Petissan. Here you can find all the traditional Swedish cakes, coffee and sweets your heart desires. You can try everything from; hot chocolate with whipped cream, freshly baked saffron bread, juicy chocolate cake, and their lovely gingerbread, a specialty in the winter. The Café Petissan was based on a real cafe that was popular with students from Stockholm University in the late 1800s. This quaint little shop gives you a sense of what dining as a bourgeois student would have felt like.

Apoteket Kronan

The Pharmacy or Apoteket Kronan isn’t perhaps the most “Christmassy” thing to do, but I’m a sucker for old pharmacies. Most of the items found in this shop are from the old royal pharmacy in Drottningholm, dating back to the latter half of the 18th century. During the colder months, people would come here frequently searching for remedies for their colds or sore throats. But back then, there wasn’t just a bottle at the ready with whatever you needed. In the 18th century, the pharmacist would have had to manually create a remedy from one of their ancient remedies. Everything from drugs, tinctures, ointments, powders, and pills was made in the dispensary laboratory.

Post Office

Stop by the Post Office to see delivery sacks filled to the brim with Christmas greetings! You can also find one of the traditional Yuletide trees decorated in the reception room. This building harkened from the early 20th century when Christmas trees were becoming en-vogue.

The Älvros Farmstead 

The Älvros Farmstead shows what life was like in Härjedalen, located in northern Sweden. Take note of the people’s clothing at the various farmsteads as they change depending on their location and period. During the weekends, you can enter the farm and see them preparing the traditional Yule goat, an old symbol for Christmas.

The Bakehouse

Stop inside the Bakehouse from Jämtland where the women inside are busy making barley meal and turning it into fresh flatbread. After coming inside, they will even offer you some free flatbread straight from the oven.

The Bollnäs House

The Bollnäs House was a building brought from Dalarna, a county is located in the middle of Sweden. This house has the most richly decorated interior. The walls are all handpainted, signifying that this building was of utmost importance. It was used to hold celebrations such as weddings, christenings and Christmas feasts. The different murals on the walls depict scenes from the bible.

The Forestry Center

The Forestry center is primarily an educational facility. It also functions as a workshop for children where they can make traditional Christmas decorations during the holidays. This is a great place to get out of the cold if your kids need a break, but be aware there is a small fee for the craft supplies.

Delsbo Farmstead

Delsbo Farmstead is a building from the 19th century from the Swedish province of Hälsingland. This area was famous for the flax that was grown in the countryside. This raw material was very lucrative as it was used to make beautiful textiles and linseed oil. Walking inside, you can see the Delsbo farmstead’s magnificent interior. Since they had a little more money than some of the other ranches, they could decorate their interior with unique wall paintings and gorgeously furnished rooms.

The entire Christmas table is laid out in the kitchen and dining room as it would have been on Christmas eve. The housewife is on hand to explain all the different cultural traditions incorporated into the food and dining.

In the living room, beside the hearth, fiddle players entertain guests with traditional Christmas music. We sat here, keeping warm and listening to the mesmerizing tunes. It was one of my favourite moments of the entire day.

Animal Enclosures

Reindeer

Continue walking north along the cobblestone paths towards the animal enclosures. Here you’ll find one of the most iconic Christmas animals, the reindeer! Every day at 12:30, you can stop by the pen to learn more about the park’s reindeer during their daily lectures. For instance, did you know that the hairs in the reindeer’s winter fur are hollow? This helps the reindeer keep warm all winter, so they do not need to hibernate.

Moose

Moose are another animal worth seeing while in Skansen due to their importance in Sweden. Sweden has a denser Moose population than any other country in the world. There are around 400,000 moose in Sweden. Just under one third will be culled annually during the autumn moose hunting season, as moose is a popular meat eaten throughout Sweden.

Stables

The stable near the Skansen Zoo is a great place to spot the Christmas Gnome, Tomte. He is known to take care of the animals in addition to being the symbol of Christmas for the Swedes. The horses are all decked out for Christmas with bells on their harnesses and red and white carriage.

Lill-Skansen

The Children’s Zoo or Lill-Skansen is an excellent place for the kids to play, but if you’re only a group of adults, it might be worth skipping. The Zoo has over 30 different animal species. The indoor area features small Scandinavian animals like toads, mice, guinea pigs, bunnies, goats and chickens. All of their cages were adorably decorated for Christmas, which was a nice little touch.

Bredablick Tower 

Behind the Lil, Zoon is the great Bredablick tower. This 30-metre high brick structure was one of the buildings built on the site based on historical references. The name of the tower, Bredablick, is the name of the Norse God Balder’s home.

There are pony rides available outside the Christmas holidays outside he twoer from 12 pm to 3 pm on weekends and from 1 pm to 2 pm on weekdays. They cost SEK 50 ($5.50 USD) each.

Seglora Church

The grand Seglora Church is from the 18th-century church from Västergötland. To this day, you can still rent out the church to have your weddings, christenings, and even host concerts—all for the right price that is.

At Christmas time the best part about visiting the church is the Christmas musical performances which take place here. The music schedule will be on the brochure upon entry but are around 1 pm and 2:30 pm. There is something so peaceful about listening to this old kind of music style in this ancient setting lit only by candlelight.

Christmas Market at Skansen

After wandering through the old farmhouses, you come out onto the Marknadsgatan or Market Street. Here is where you’ll find the incredible Skansen Christmas Market! Since its inception in 1903, Skansen’s Christmas Market has become a beloved holiday tradition for Swedes and tourists alike. During the winter, all sellers must all dress in traditional garb, making visiting the market feel all the most festive!

The number of stalls here was almost dizzying. But the very first item on our list we needed to check off was to grab ourselves a glass of Skansen’s specialty, Saffron Glögg. If you haven’t tried glögg at Christmas time in Sweden, you haven’t been to Sweden. Glögg is sweetened, mulled red wine blended with a spice mixture of cloves, cinnamon, cardamom and ginger. Here in Skansen, they add saffron to the wine, making it taste even more delicious. Glögg can be purchased by the glass at the market or even buy entire bottles to take home with you!

Eating at the Christmas Market

If you’re looking for something to eat, then you’ve come to the right place. There are both items to eat there in the park or bring home with you all with a distinctly Swedish Christmas flare! Taste traditional sausages,  holiday cheese, Skansen’s own handmade mustard, freshly made bread and cakes, sugared almonds, marzipan, crispbread, smoked turkey, jams and marmalades, more!

One of the most famous things to eat at Skansen is the Kolbullar. Kolbullar means “coal bun” as the dish is cooked over an open fire. They place cast iron pans on the bonfire and fry open a pancake covered with bacon and lingonberries (a local Swedish fruit). The batter bubbles away and steams like crazy in the freezing cold temperatures. After it’s finished cooking, it’s covered in brown sugar syrup. There is really nothing like it and so tasty!

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Shopping at the Christmas Market

If you’re looking to purchase some Christmas presents, the marketplace has you covered! There are all kinds of handicrafts, Swedish Christmas decorations, embroidery, leather goods, hand-knitted mittens, and one of a kind children’s books.

One fun little stall which I found in the market sold ‘mystery Christmas gifts.’ Each one cost 95 kr ($10 USD) and contained a secret gift. The items inside were all taken from the Skansen gift shop and related to the park itself or were Christmas themed. While most are valued at around 95, you might get lucky and pull a mystery item worth even more! These are great little surprises for both kids and adults alike! Plus, you can buy yourself a present and be able to still be surprised by what you find when you open it.

Be sure to try out the chocolate lottery! You buy a ticket, reach into the tombola to pull out a number and see if you won! You could get nothing but could also win a chocolate gift ranging from small chocolate coins to a colossal gift basket! These games made the market place feel like a giant funfair, and the jolly atmosphere it created was infectious.

Bollnäs Square

In front of the marketplace is a large square called Bollnäs square. This is where you’ll find the enormous Skansen Christmas tree. Throughout the day, there are performances on stage by musicians in traditional attire. You can get into the spirit of the holidays and dance around the Christmas tree. Swedes dance hand in hand, in a circle around the tree as they sing.

Oktorp Farmstead

​​The Oktorp farmstead (Oktorpsgården) from Halland shows what a farm in the flat countryside looked like in the 1870s. As the room appears at Skansen, it has been decorated for a festive occasion. It’s Christmas Eve around 1870, and the family is about to sit down for their dinner. The wall and ceiling are hung with woven linen cloths. The cloths are painted with biblical motifs and used for special occasions.

Farm Labourer’s Cottage

The Farm Labourer’s Cottage is an example of the more impoverished families who lived in Sweden in the 1900s. This small one-room cottage was inhabited by a large family. Despite the family being slow, they still celebrated Christmas in their own unique way.

Vala School 

Across the Farm Labourers Cottage, you’ll find Vala School. This school building dates back to the 19th century when a law was passed requiring school-aged children to attend class all across Sweden. A Christmas party is held inside the school for one week before Christmas, where children can decorate gingersnap cookies.

Galejan Fairground 

Market Weekends. Swings and roundabouts for small children. Galejan is the most charming funfair with swings and roundabouts for small children.

Stora Gungan Tavern

I would highly recommend booking a reservation at Stora Gungan Tavern to eat an early dinner before you leave. Inside this traditional tavern, built-in 1880, you can sample a traditional Swedish Christmas Smorgasbord. This includes rye bread topped with everything from pickled red onions, cold-smoked salmon, cod, egg, shrimps, and more. You can sip on carrot and ginger soup with a side of Christmas crispbread. For the main course, try the Swedish staple, meatballs with lingonberry jam, horseradish, cream sauce, cucumber, potatopurée. For dessert, sample their Skansen Pastry!

Christmas at Skansen is such a joy to visit, and just wandering the streets here brought a smile to my face! I hope you enjoyed your guided tour, and you left the park filled with the Christmas spirit!

Let me know in the comments if you’ve ever been to Skansen before or what you’re most looking forward to during their Christmas celebrations.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Visiting Skansen’s Historic Christmas Market in Stockholm [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/why-you-need-to-visit-skansens-historic-christmas-in-stockholm/feed/ 0 17484 Discover & Uncover the Hidden Gems of the Basilica of St Peter and St Paul in Prague https://thecreativeadventurer.com/discover-saint-peter-and-paul-basilica-pragues-hidden-gem/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=discover-saint-peter-and-paul-basilica-pragues-hidden-gem https://thecreativeadventurer.com/discover-saint-peter-and-paul-basilica-pragues-hidden-gem/#comments Fri, 28 Aug 2020 21:30:17 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//?p=1402 The Basilica of St Peter and St Paul in Prague often makes the top ten list of the...

The post Discover & Uncover the Hidden Gems of the Basilica of St Peter and St Paul in Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> The Basilica of St Peter and St Paul in Prague often makes the top ten list of the “Best Churches in Prague” but rarely tops the “Must See Attractions” list. And yet, I find it to be one of the most impressive pieces of Slavic Art Nouveau architecture in the city. When you see pictures of this place or walk inside its doors, it’s unbelievable that this church isn’t the first place people are told to visit when they come to Prague. Even if you’re not religious, the sweeping art nouveau murals which envelope this building are extraordinary and a must-see when travelling to Prague!

Touring the building also serves as a history lesson about the Slavic people, Czech culture and even art. The basilica doesn’t have St. Vitus’s lofty status or the draw that St. Nicholas’ Church gets. But if you make an effort to come down and visit, you’ll see what the rest of those unknowing tourists are missing out on.

Table Of Contents
  1. History
  2. Location
  3. Hours & Admission
  4. Towers
  5. Facade
  6. Interior
  7. Frescos
  8. The Treasure Room
  9. Vyšehrad Cemetery

History

The church was founded in 1070 by the Czech King Vratislav II. Initially, it was a simple Romanesque Basilica. Prince Vratislav II had the church built in purposeful opposition to St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague Castle. Almost a hundred years earlier, his predecessor, Wenceslaus I, had built St. Vitus Cathedral. But rather than pray instead of this old church, Vratislav wanted to make something of his own to mark his reign. In Vyšehrad, Vratislav was said to have brought 12 baskets of stones upon which they built the foundation of what would become the Basilica of St Peter and St Paul.

But, in 1249, a great fire destroyed the church, and the original design was lost to the ages. The first reconstruction was a relatively meagre endeavour meant to restore the building only in function and not in fashion. Years later, a baroque frontispiece was added to the church, but the neo-gothic renovations in the 1880s removed any trace of this architecture.

Joseph Mocker

In 1885, a new renovation was commissioned to create an elaborate, neo-gothic church. Master builder Joseph Mocker was the original architect, but he died halfway through construction. His partner František Mikš finished the job. Now having complete artistic control of the operations, Mikš made a few changes to the original layout to suit his own personal style. His main addition to the design was the towering facade that the church is now so famous for. As it peaks out of the hillside in Vysehrad.

Location

The Basilica is located inside the complex of Vysehrad. Vysehrad is one of Prague’s old fortresses situated on a high cliff above the river Vltava. From here, soldiers could easily see any incoming armies and it was a prime location for Prague’s infantry. In the 11th century, Vysehrad was also the seat of the first King of Bohemia. After the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV began to build the Prague Castle in the early 14th century, Vyšehrad was abandoned as the royal family’s primary residence.

The complex was left to deteriorate for years and wasn’t touched until Charles IV decided to renew the area. He wanted to build new fortifications, a new royal palace, and finally see to the renovations at the Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul. But, with the Hussite war’s dawn, progress was discontinued, and the church was ransacked once more. It wouldn’t be for another few hundred years that the church would be restored to a new form of heavenly glory.

Aerial view of Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul, Vysehrad, Prague

Hours & Admission

November – March
Monday – Saturday 10 am – 5 pm
Sunday 11:30 am – 5 pm

April – October
Monday – Saturday 10 am – 6 pm (5:30 on Thursday)
Sunday 11:30 am – 6 pm

There is a small entrance fee to access the church. Adult entry costs 90 CZK ($4 USD), which is more than worth it to explore this treasure!

Towers

Upon walking up to the church one of the first things you’ll be drawn to, are the two huge towers, which flank the skyline. Let your eyes float up to the top of the spires, and notice that they are indeed hollow. Their design was influenced by the chestnut flowers’ cone-like formations. Architect Miks was inspired by these plants, which bloom right behind the church in Vyšehrad cemetery. Decorating the spires’ outer edges and the triangular gables are frilled, petal-like protrusions which make the entire structure look more naturalistic than man-made.

Facade

The design of the building is quite unique as it features no transept. A transept is the part of the building that forms the classical shape of a cross and cuts through the center of the church. Since the building has no horizontal intersection, when you look at it from the front it almost looks like a movie set, an exterior with nothing behind it. So when you walk inside, it’s almost a surprise to see his lofty, extended interior.

Above the central entrance door is the tympanum, decorated an intricate carving of Jesus standing tall beside his apostles, during the Last Judgement. Below the group of the apostles, St. Michael is centred, ushering people into heaven. A chorus of angel trumpets their horns above his head, announcing their entry to the heavenly realm. The people around St. Michael are sculpted as crippled and in pain, weighed down by the burden of their sins.

Entrance door of the neo-Gothic Saint Peter and Paul Cathedral in Vysehrad fortress, Prague. In 2003 the church was elevated to basilica by Pope John Paul II.

St. Peter and St. Paul

Above the central portal is a great pediment featuring the two saints’ statues after which the church is named after. St. Peter and St. Paul are set on either side of the sculpture of Jesus, crowned with a golden halo, reaching his hand out in prayer to the people below.

Mosaics on the church’s frontispiece, set into quatrefoils frames, depict St. Peter and St. Paul’s portraits. Peter’s symbols are a set of keys, which are the keys to heaven. Peter is the one with a bright white beard wearing papal vestments. Paul holds a book and a sword with a hilt in the shape of a cross in his hands. Paul is depicted as traditionally represented with a long pointed beard and a more modest, grey robe.

Portals

The portals on either side of the central entrance are adorned with brightly coloured mosaics. Etched onto the church’s door are the symbols of the coat of arms of the Czech Republic. The silver double-tailed lion on a red background and the black Moravian eagle are repeated across the grand entrance doors.

Above the entry doors, on your left, is the emblem of the Vysehrad Chapter house. The chapter was established here at the basilica around 1070 at the behest of Bohemia’s first king. The branch was subordinate only to Rome and could influence many aspects of Bohemia’s internal and foreign policy. Their emblem is two golden keys crossed tied together by rope. A symbol you’ll come across multiple times throughout your visit here.

Interior

As you step into the church, the first thing you’ll be stuck with is the fact that from floor to ceiling, the entire building is COVERED in murals and paintings. Not a column, nor walls, has been left untouched. The detailed pictures sweep across the walls like embroidery covering a royal gown. Floral trimmings cover every inch of the temple, giving you the feeling of walking into a forest.

Art Nouveau

As you walk inside, the light shimmers off every surface. Gilding and gold leaf were used in abundance during the renovations. But unlike other neo-gothic cathedrals and churches of the time, this one is not purely high gothic, but instead embraces art nouveau sensibilities. Art nouveau was sweeping the nation during the time church was being renovated. Art nouveau attempted to reject academic, historical art and instead embraced natural forms, movement, asymmetry and modern materials.

The addition of art nouveau inside this old church feels shockingly appropriate as the first King of Bohemia himself aimed to reject any previously established traditions when he originally built this church.

Frescos

The Basilica’s most extraordinary characteristic is the gilded frescos, which surround the faithful who come to pray. These paintings are ornate, undulating images by painter František Urban and his wife, Marie Urbanová-Zahradnická. These paintings look famously similar to the iconic designs made by famous Czech painter Alphonse Mucha. Many people who visit the church might even be convinced they were by Mucha if they further inquired. But Mucha was merely a trendsetter who inspired Urban and Zahradnická to fall on the bandwagon. Women and men, with delicate features and cascading hair, embellish the walls and archways.

Running up every pillar are blooming patterns and colourful ribbons. The walls contain lots of vivid greens and deep brown hues, continuing the woodland theme. Even the dark church benches were carved with oak leaves, bringing the outdoors inside. Not a single item inside the church was left untouched by Art Nouveau’s seductive technique.

Murals

The murals on the northern wall feature images of St. Cyril and St. Methodius’ arrival in Bohemia. St. Cyril and St. Methodius were two brothers, theologians and missionaries who made their mark in Christianity by evangelizing the Slavs. They are known as the “Apostles to the Slavs.” Their life story is told across these murals framed by a series of angels who look down on the scene from heaven. Although there might not be any text to follow the images, it’s a visual way of understanding this part of Czech history. On the south wall, the murals depict the establishment of Vysehrad in the Czech Republic.

Look up at the vaults on the ceiling. Even they are painted with images of beautiful angels in prayer, looking down on the faithful below.

Stained Glass Windows

Brightly coloured stained glass enhances the outer walls of the Basilica. Each window depicts a scene from the bible. But what makes these windows even more interesting to study is to look at the elements of architecture that have been incorporated into the glasswork. This is done almost to evoke the idea that architecture itself is a form of religious devotion. Renaissance tracery windows, gothic quatrefoils and baroque altarpieces all serve as the framing devices around these dramatic biblical stories.

Chapel of St. Clement

Walking into the church, we will study it from the right side chapels, towards the altar and then continue back down the left side chapels and finish in the treasury. The first chapel you see upon entering on your right is the Chapel of St. Clement. Here, you can look at a Romanesque sarcophagus from the 12th century. During the Romanesque period, a crypt was built in the church to bury the first Bohemian king and his descendants. This coffin most likely belongs to one of these royal family members. Despite its modest and unassuming appearance, it’s one of the oldest treasures of the church.

Chapel of Czech Patron Saints

Inside the Chapel of Czech Patron Saints is a fabulous neo-gothic altar sculpted by Czech artist J. Kastner in 1910. In the center of the altar is Christ on the cross, heavenly rays illuminating from his body and from behind the cross, forming a golden backdrop. Below him are gathered St. Cyril and St. Methodius dressed in brighly coloured robes. In front of them kneels St. Wenceslas on the left and St. Ludmila on the right. On the left side of the group are Czech saints St. Vit and St. Vojtěch, and behind them stands St. Sigismund and members of brotherhood of martyrs. On the right side, kneels St. Jan Nepomucký and St. Prokop. Above them stands St. Norbert, Vol. Anežka, and Damian, St. Ivan, vol. Josef.

Chapel of the Virgin Mary of the Rain

One of the most important items found here in the basilica is the Dešťová or the icon of the Virgin Mary of Rain. She can be found in the fourth side chapel from the right after entering the church. This wooden polychrome icon depicts the Virgin Mary and the baby Jesus set against a vibrant blue backdrop. The background is textured to give the mother and child the appearance of being caught in a rainstorm. The ground on which they stand is bright green like it is growing swiftly beneath them.

The painting was made around 1356 and is legend to have been painted by St. Luke himself. This icon is one in which people come from all over the country to pray in front of, especially in times of drought. The reason for this is because in 1638 there was a great drought in Prague which the icon is said to have stopped. During the drought, one of the priests of the Vyšehrad chapter had a dream that if he held a procession with the Madonna, it would start to rain before the crowds made their way to a nearby monastery. The priest organized the march, and sure enough, it rained in Prague for the next three days. The people of Bohemia saw it as a miracle, and ever since, the painting has been venerated by all those who believe in it.

Memorial Plaque

To the left of the Chapel of the Virgin of the Ramparts is a bronze memorial plaque placed on a column close to the altar. This memorial plaque is dedicated to Vratislav II, the first King of Bohemia. The plaque is a modern addition to the church added in 1992 on the 900th anniversary of the King’s death. If you look at the shape embedded onto the plaque, it models the original basilica floor plan. On either side of the statue of the King are two crests, one which contains the black eagle of Moravia and the other has the two crossed keys which are the emblem of the Vyšehrad religious chapter.

Presbytery

On either side of the presbytery, there are murals depicting St. Peter and Paul’s legend. We can see the ‘Conversation of St.Paul‘ on the top left pediment on the northern wall. The following small scenes show his miracles: healing the disabled, his conversations with God while in jail and finally his beheading and subsequent canonization

On the southern side, we have the legend of St. Peter. On the top, we see Jesus converting his first disciples, which include Peter himself. In the lower images, we can see scenes of Jesus and Peter’s life together. It follows their journey leading up to Jesus’ crucifixion, including the moment when Peter denied Jesus. At the bottom of the mural, we can spot St. Peter performing miracles and his eventual death in the same manner as he had seen Jesus be put to death.

Altar

The main altar, framed in front of a series of brilliant stained glass windows, contains depictions of the Slav Saints Cyril and Methodius. It was carved by the architect and woodcarver Josef Hrubeš. The entire altar took over 5 years to be completed and was finished in 1889.

Pulpit

The gracefully carved wooden pulpit on the left of the nave features reliefs of the various priests who preached and were prior members of the Vyšehrad Chapter. The pulpit was designed by architect Josef Mocker and carved by woodworker V. Mráz in 1883.

Devil’s Pillar

After getting over the initial awe and wonder of the interior, take a walk towards the sacristry. Although you cannot enter the doors of the sacristy, take a look at the mural painted above the entry. Here we find a large baroque painting depicting the legend of the “Devil’s Pillar.”

The Legend

The legend goes that a priest in Bohemia, had a severe problem with gambling. In the hopes of freeing himself from his debts, he asked the devil to trade his soul for some luck. But shortly after making the deal, he greatly regretted this decision and asked the devil to forget the agreement. But the devil would not give up on a soul that easily. Instead the devil made him another bet. He told him that if the priest could finish celebrating mass before the devil could bring a column from St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome to Prague, he would release him from his contract. The priest ran as fast as he could to the church where he began preforming mass.

Of course, the devil cheated, and when he arrived by magic with the pillar in hand, St. Peter appeared and threw the devil into the sea three times. Each time he threw him, St. Peter broke the column until it was broken into three pieces. This allowed the priest to finish preforming mass, and his soul was saved. The three pieces of the Devil’s pillar were brought to Prague and can still be found in a nearby park close to the church.

Chapel of St. Francis of Assisi

The Chapel of St. Francis of Assisi contains a neo-gothic altar with paintings of the life of St. Francis surrounding a large portrait of the saint himself. One of the best ways to identify St. Francis is by how he holds his hands outwards to show off the stigma that appears on them.

Chapel of St. John of Nepomuk

St. Jan Nepomucký or St. John of Nepomuk is one of the most famous saints in Bohemia. Nepomuk was drowned in the Vltava river at the behest of Wenceslaus IV when Nepomuk would not divulge the queen of Bohemia’s confessions to the King. His chapel here in the church contains a Neo-Gothic relic altar. Across the altar are scenes from the life of St. John of Nepomuk by Josef Mathauser who painted it around 1700. In the center of the altar of dozens of relics which are said to contain pieces of the saint himself.

Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows

Inside the Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows is an alluring sculpture of the Pietà by Ferdinand Stuplesser made in 1898. It was modelled off Michelangelo‘s famous Pietà in Rome but features sharper edges and more angular drapery, reflecting the style used in medieval manuscripts.

The Treasure Room

The Vyšehrad Chapter was one of the more affluent monastic groups and collected valuable liturgical collections over the years. But in 1611, many of their most precious objects were looted during the Hussite wars. A few of their most treasured items were hidden away and can be seen on display inside the treasury. The Treasury inside the church contains all different precious ecclesiastical Czech objects. Baroque illustrated manuscripts, golden chalices and gem covered books hid behind protective glass.

Some of the most precious items included in the treasury are reliquaries. A reliquary is a container for relics such as a saints’ physical remains, such as bones, pieces of clothing, or some object associated with saints or other religious figures. Here in the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul’s treasury you can find

St Valentine’s Relic

St Valentine’s relics. It is supposedly a chip of his shoulder blade. It was lost for years, and as recently as 2002, it was uncovered hidden away inside a gold-and-glass Baroque reliquary in the back of a long-forgotten storage closet.

Vyšehrad Cemetery

The set behind the church is the Vyšehrad Cemetery. Built in 1869, the cemetery was created as a resting place for some of Prague’s most treasured creatives. Here lies dozens of composers, artists, sculptors, writers, as well as those revolutionaries from the world of science and politics. The cemetery is the largest in Prague spreading over 0.81 hectares.

The Slavin mausoleum at Vysehrad Cemetery. Prague, Czech Republic

Slavín Tomb

The most majestic part of the cemetery is the Slavín Tomb, designed by Antonín Wiehl. The Slavín Tombs are considered a ‘pantheon,’ “a building in which the illustrious dead of a nation are buried or honoured.” The dramatic sculpture atop the tombs was carved by Josef Mauder. The pantheon contains 44 burial tombs, as well as various coffins and urns. 55 people were buried here under the magnanimous sculptures of “Mourning” and “Victory” represented as two alluring women.

Famous Graves

Buried here is Alphonse Mucha, king of Czech Art Nouveau, along with; composer Antonín Dvořák, Art Nouveau sculptor Ladislav Šaloun, author Karel Čapek and many more.

The first person to be buried inside the Slavin Tomb was poet Julius Zeyer in 1901. On the tomb is inscribed one of his verses, “Its sons’ dust this mourning country returns to the earth. Their deeds it will, rejoicing, declare to all mankind.” Above the panels on the Slavín is written their motto, “Though dead, they still speak.”

The rest of the tombs and gravestones found throughout the cemetery are wildly creative and works of art. It seemed like one after another, when people would pass away and be buried here, there was an expectation that their gravestone wouldn’t be something simple or traditional, rather something far more extraordinary.

There is even a large arcade, decorated with Tuscan sandstone pillars and a vaulted ceiling covered in art nouveau style paintings.

This brings us to the end of the tour, but if you’re interested in spending more time in Vyšehrad, I implore you to do so! Just like this church is such a hidden gem, Vyšehrad has so many incredible places to visit and excellent restaurants that are happily tucked away from the tourist hoards.

In the comments, let me know if you were surprised not to see this church on other “must-see” lists in Prague or if you’ve been there before and were just as amazed as me by what you discovered!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Discover & Uncover the Hidden Gems of the Basilica of St Peter and St Paul in Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/discover-saint-peter-and-paul-basilica-pragues-hidden-gem/feed/ 1 1402 The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of the Barcelona Cathedral https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-self-guided-tour-of-the-barcelona-cathedral/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-ultimate-self-guided-tour-of-the-barcelona-cathedral https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-self-guided-tour-of-the-barcelona-cathedral/#comments Thu, 14 May 2020 13:00:51 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//?p=1446 The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia (long name, I know) feels like it...

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of the Barcelona Cathedral first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia (long name, I know) feels like it often plays second fiddle to Barcelona’s most famous church, Gaudi’s masterpiece La Sagrada Familia. But the Barcelona Cathedral is truly a treasure unto itself and worth exploring in its entirety. While La Sagrada is a modernist miracle, the Barcelona Cathedral is a gothic gem. Although there are many similarities between the two once you really investigate them both. Gaudi himself was inspired by this historic church upon designing La Sagrada. Gaudi would have come here as a youngster and looked up at the soaring gargoyles, angels and pinnacles in childlike awe. That same awe-inspiring feeling is still there today! So head inside and see everything there is to explore!

Hours and Access

The church is located in the Pla de la Seu, right in the centre of the Gothic Quarter. To get there you can take the Metro to ‘Jaume I Station‘ on line 4. It is also easily accessible on foot if you’re already in this area of town.

The Cathedral’s opening hours for visitors are as follows:
Monday to Friday: 8 am-12:30 pm and 5:45 pm-7:30 pm.
Saturdays: 8:30 am-12:30 pm. and from 5:15 pm – 8 pm. 
Sundays and Holidays: 2:00 pm – 5:30 pm

During the rest of the time, the Cathedral is dedicated to religious worship only. Although you are more than welcome to attend, no photography is permitted during this time. You are expected to simply spend this time in respectful prayer. While there are no days when the building is officially closed if you’re visiting during a holiday its best to check their website schedule for updated visiting hours.

Admission

While entry into the Cathedral is free there are certain areas that require admission. The main nave of the cathedral and the cloisters are both accessible without a ticket. Entry into the Choir costs €3, the Terraces and lift cost €3. Alternatively, you can get these two tickets PLUS entries into the chapel and Sala Capitular museum for €7. The later is the best deal. The view from the rooftop terraces is amazing so I’d recommend it. Be warned the terrace closes 30 minutes before the rest of the church. Don’t forget about this especially if you’ve already purchased your ticket. Unless you’re visiting during the absolute peak of tourist season, you can easily buy your tickets upon arrival inside.

Tips

I visited the Cathedral twice on my first visit to Barcelona. Despite not having an issue buying a ticket, I did find that when I visited in the afternoon the cathedral was quite busy. Since it was so crowded so I returned the next day in the early morning just as it opened. This time of day is really magical. The sun rises just behind the Cathedral and the usually packed square in front of the church is full of nothing except the sound of your footsteps.

Be sure you have adequate clothing for entry which requires a modest attire; arms and legs must be covered up and no hats. I always bring a little scarf I use to cover my arms if I’m wearing a strappy top. I also carry a pair of leggings in my backpack. This is a great trick for days when it’s too hot to wear pants but you need your legs to be covered.

History

The church is dedicated to Saint Eulalia, the patron saint of Barcelona. Eulalia was a beautiful young woman who once lived in Barcelona. One day, she was attacked by a group of Roman soldiers in the square. She was persecuted for her religious beliefs and stripped naked in front of a horde of people. She was ashamed but in the middle of the summer, it began to snow, covering her naked form.

Unfortunately, this only enraged the Roman soldiers and they threw her in a barrel. They proceeded to stab the barrel with knives and rolled her down the street until she was dead. Today, that same street is also named after her as well. Her sad but powerful story is one which stuck with the people of Barcelona. This church was built in her name, “Baixada de Santa Eulàlia“. Her body was saved by her fellow Christians and is now entombed inside the Cathedral. Very poetic.

First Romanesque Church

The very first romanesque church was built here in 1058. Over the years it fell into ruins. During the Gothic period, the old church was destroyed and w new one built on its foundations. Construction began for the Cathedral of Barcelona in 1298 but wasn’t completed until 1420! That’s over 100 years! The cloisters were the last part of the church to be finished, completed in 1448. In the 19th century, a neo-gothic facade was added. It was designed with the same beautiful gothic elements of the rest of the cathedral so it seamlessly blends in. It’s so rare to find a cathedral this old which hasn’t had multiple renovations and restorations. The fact that most of the church contains art and architecture from the 15th century is such a treat to behold.

The Facade

Looking at this ornate facade, simply dripping in decorations, it’s hard to imagine that it once was nothing more than a plain exterior. Most Catalan churches built at the time featured a flat, nondescription facade. This neo-gothic marvel was built years after the initial construction of the church in the 19th century. It was designed by architect José Oriol Mestres. Mestres wasn’t an immensely popular architect, with only a few other buildings in his repertoire. Perhaps the Cathedral was his greatest accomplishment and once it was completed nothing could compare.

The stained glass windows you can see inside the towers were taken from the Renaissance exterior. The stained glass located on the lower portion of the facade are more modern interpretations. The tracery windows are some of the most ornate examples of neo-gothic design and seem to weave together like ivy or branches or a tree. The rose window, which is typical of other neo-gothic buildings, is here portrayed in a different fashion than most. Instead of a circular rose, with inside petals, the rose window here is designed without the outer portion. The petals of the rose each feature a quarterfoil symbol which spills out above the top of the rose window. This is more of the unique aspects of the neo-gothic design.

Entry Doors

One of my favourite parts of the church is the neo-gothic archivolt above the church’s entry doors. An archivolt is an ornamental band that follows the curve of the underside of an arch. Upon this archivolt are carved, 100 angels flying above your head! In the centre of the two, large wooden entrance doors is a stone sculpture of Jesus, flanked on either side by statues of the 12 apostles. 75 figures in total adorned the exterior of the facade, featuring more saints, kings and famous prophets. While the sculptures of the people are stern and noble, there are also various playful gargoyles and mythical animals which also decorated the stone walls.

Towers

The cathedral is home to three towers, two side towers and a large central cimborio. A cimborio is a classical element of Catalan architecture which is a raised dome or a cupola that acts as a lantern over the crossing of a Gothic cathedral. This cimborio is what allows natural light flood the otherwise darkened interior. A bright interior is one of the most important parts of a Gothic cathedral so the cimborio is a clutch element. The cimborio is crowned by the copper statue of Saint Helena. The family from Girona, who financed most of the cathedral’s construction in the 19th century, were devotees of Saint Helena. The family wanted to be able to see their patron saint at all times, high above the rest of the buildings in Barcelona. 

The two side tower, located over the Doors of Saint Ivoand and the Cloisters, were added in the 19th century. Each tower is adorned with two lateral pinnacles. Every inch of these towers is embellished! Leaves curls around the edges, gargoyles pop out from every corner and angel play musical instruments, a choir over the top of the city.

Doors of Saint Ivo

Before heading right into the church, walk over to the Plaça Sant Iu, on the northern side of the Cathedral. Here, on the steps of the entrance to the Museu Frederic Marès, you can study the ancient Doors of Saint Ivo. This was the primary entrance in the cathedral for over 500 years, located right under the northern bell tower. The doors are named “Saint Ivo” because, in the 15th century, Saint Ivo was the patron saint of Lawyers. Lawyers were one of the main contributors to the cathedral’s construction and as such they demanded their patron saint be honoured.

The doors were built from marble which had been brought all the way from the precious Montjuïc mountains, close to Barcelona. They were built in 1298 and have stood here untouched ever since. On either side of the columns which flank the doors are carvings of knights fighting mythical beasts. These capitals were rescued from the ruins of the ancient Romanesque cathedral. Once they were uncovered the architecture knew they needed to be incorporated in the cathedral somehow. Below these capitals is a large inscription, surrounded in floral carvings. This inscription bears the date of May 1st, 1298, the day work began on the construction of the gothic cathedral.

Interior 

The interior of the cathedral features the gothic design of a unified apse system. The two side aisle and central nave are all connected together but the aisles are distinguished from the nave by having a distinctly lower ceiling. The side naves and ambulator feature monuments and chapels dedicated to over 140 different saints! While we won’t go into all of them here I did try my best to highlight the most important ones.

Entry into the Nave

Upon entering the nave through main front doors, you’ll step directly into the grand nave of the church. You’ll be struck immediately by the warm yellow light which sets the interior all aglow. Most of the blackened parts of the decor are not from age but from hundreds of years of candle soot. Take a seat in one of the pews in front of the choir and look up at the ceiling. Along the vaults of the cathedral are 215 beautifully carved keystones which date back the 14th and 15th century. These once were covered in colours polychrome but after years of deterioration, they are now just plain carved stones.

Right above this area of the nave, we can see the keystone of Saint Martha. Other famous keystones to look out for are Jesus being crucified between the Virgin and Saint John, with the symbols of the sun and the moon. See if you can spot Saint Eulalia with the coat of arms of Blanca of Naples, covered in Fleur-de-lis. Our Lady of Mercy is seen using her cape to shelter a pope. There is a king, a cardinal, a bishop and a canon on one side, and a queen, a nun and three other feminine figure on the other side along with the Annunciation of the Virgin with the Archangel Saint Gabriel. And finally, the eternal father surrounded by angels.

Stained-glass windows

The Cathedral has many Gothic and modern stained-glass windows. The central panels depict the image of the central characters to which the piece is dedicated. The side panels feature richly coloured geometric designs, coats of arms of royal families, trefoil and quatrefoils, and sometimes even architectural features that bring a meta element to the design.

Bishop Ponç de Gualba & Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia,

The stained glass windows throughout the cathedral are from various periods in the building’s history. The earliest ones date from the 14th century and bear the coat of arms of Bishop Ponç de Gualba. These windows depict the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia, Saint Sylvester, Saint Peter and Saint Stephen. Later in the 1400s we see stained glass windows dedicated to Saint Andrew with the coats of arms of Bishop Armengol. The most impressive of the windows, located in the bapistery chapel, was made by artisan Gil de Fontanet in 1495 and depict the Saint Michael archangel and Noli me tangere. The most recent stained glass windows, found on the facade are all from the 19th and 20the century.

It’s amazing to see that even some of the windows which are hundreds of years old, still explode with colour! This cathedral wasn’t about steering away from loud, and expressive designs. Instead it wanted to make its visitors feel powerful emotions upon stepping into this haven of light.

Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto

Just to the right as you enter, you’ll find a darkened chapel. At the back of the room is a golden arch, which seems radiate with light as it is the only real light source in the room. This is the chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto. In the centre of the chapel is a beautiful, black wooden sculpture of Jesus Christ on the cross. Look closely and you might notice that Jesus almost looks like he is leaning to one side. This is because of a very famous legend from Barcelona which took place during the battle of Lepanto, in October 1571.

The Christian states of Europe all worked together in this battle to defend their land against the invading Ottoman empire. At the time, it was not only the largest naval battle in history but also the bloodiest. In just a few hours over 50,000 soldiers lost their lives. The legend goes that the crucifix we see here today was mounted upon one of the ships. As a means of protection for the soldiers. During the battle, a large cannonball shot towards the boat which carried the crucified. The soldiers claim they saw the statue, which was right in the line of fire, dodge the oncoming canon ball. This is why we still see him in this position today, in mid dodge. It’s said that the defending Habsburgs army saw this as a good omen and it was part of what propelled them to victory.

Saint Olegarius

Also located in this chapel, although only partially visible, is the tomb of Saint Olegarius. Saint Olegarius, served as bishop of Barcelona in 1116. Saint Olegarius’s body is actually one of the few saints body’s to be incorrupt. Incorruptibility is a belief that by some divine intervention a human body avoids the normal process of decomposition after death as a sign of the body’s holiness. Inside Saint Olegarius’ tomb, his corpse is still dressed in the regal bishop’s robes he wore in life. Every year, on March 6th, the tomb is opened up and visitors can gaze down into the glass casket and see the unchanged body for themselves.

Saint Chapels

There are over 28 chapels flanking the cathedral’s nave. You can find a list of all the saint chapels here if you’re looking to prayer at one in particular. Each one of the chapels is dripped in golden leaf decorations, magnificent paintings which tell stories of the saint’s life, and powerful sculptures which look out at you from the gates which separate from the holy from the mortal realm.

Chapel of Baptism & Font

Against the wall where the entry doors are located is the Chapel of Baptism. Here you’ll discover the huge marble baptismal font which has been used inside this cathedral since 1433. Behind the font is a small relief carved into the marble altarpiece of Jesus Baptising one of his disciples.

Saint Severus Chapel   

To the left of the pews in the back of the nave, you’ll find the chapel of Saint Severus. If you’re a Harry Potter fan like me, your ears will perk up upon hearing this name, as I had never heard it before those books, but it turns out, it’s a fairly old name. Saint Severus was once the bishop of Barcelona but was murdered for his beliefs in 304. Romans soldiers captured him and tortured him into renouncing his Christianity. When he refused for the final time, he was sentenced to death.

The soldiers hammered nails into his head and yet he would not die. When fellow Christians heard of his persecution they came to his aid but unfortunately, were too late. As they took him down, he died in their arms. In1405, his relics, which were previously housed in Sant Cugat, were moved to Barcelona. It was rumoured that these relics helped cure King Martin I of gangrene in his leg! You can see a depiction this event in the top right corner.

Choirstalls

In front of the first set of pews in the nave is the choirstalls. Guarding the entrance to the stall is a great stone wall with stunning carved reliefs. The depictions on the relief tell the story of Saint Eulalia and her eventual death. In between these extremely gruesome and powerful carvings are niches with statues of Catalan saints.

Order of the Golden Fleece

The interior of the choir stall is dedicated to the knights of the Order of the Golden Fleece. The order was founded to defend the Roman Catholic religion and to uphold the usages of chivalry. The order settled disputes, crimes and the actions of the knights of the order. If a knight was thought to have committed an offence or rebelled, they were brought to trial among their peers and not to the public justice.

The choirstall’s design is thought to be the finest example of Gothic Catalan architecture. To study the ornate canopies and pinnacles, walk around the exterior of the choir before heading inside. The walls surrounding the choir are decorated in Doric columns and crowned with an ornate balustrade.

Knights of the Order of the Golden Fleece

During the first few years of the Order of the Golden Fleece there were only 20 knights but as the years went on it expanded to over 60 members. Today you can find the coats-of-arms of the knights painted onto the various seat backs inside the choirstall. Most of these were painted in the 16th century although the older looking ones were made as far back as the 14th and 15th centuries. Even each of the chairs themselves has these gorgeous little carvings of animals and minature statues on the seats. No aspect of the choirstalls was left unembellished. Inside the choir, you’ll find a wonderfully carved wooden pulpit made by Pedro Çanglada in 1403.

Chapel of Raymond of Pennafort 

On the South wall, opposite the choir stalls, you’ll find the Chapel of Raymond of Pennafort. Raymond, a strange name for a saint, is the patron saint of Catalan lawyers. One of the best parts of visiting this cathedral is learning all about the Catalan saints you won’t hear about anywhere else in the world! Raymond studied law at the University of Bologna and was one of the chief advisors to the Pope and King James I of Catalonia and Aragon. One of his miracles was said to be sailing from Sóller to Barcelona on nothing but a simple blanket!

Saint Pacian Chapel

Continuing along the south wall, you’ll come to the Chapel of Saint Pacian. Saint Pacian was bishop of Barcelona during the second half of the 4th century. He is highly regarded as one of the founding father’s of the church in Barcelona. The altarpiece inside the chapel is a baroque masterpiece made by sculptor Joan Roig from 1688. It depicts various scenes from the life of Saint Pacian and Saint Ignatius of Loyola.

The Organ

The fantastically carved organ, which hangs above the doors of Saint Ivo is truly the definition of “heavenly”. Built in 1539, the organ is designed in high baroque style. Cherubs top the pipes and Saints faces reveal themselves from the flat wooden facade.

Crypt of Saint Eulalia

Below the high alter, a set of stairs descends into the ground where you’re met with a pair of iron gates. Behind these gates, you can see a large stone tomb topped with a beautiful statue of a young woman. This is the crypt of Saint Eulalia. Her sarcophagus is adorned in gothic, polychromed alabaster and inside rest her remains. The carvings around the tomb depict the story of her martyrdom after leaving her home of Sarria at the age of 13. The scenes of her martyrdom are quite affecting and powerful, and not for the faint of heart. They show her being whipped by soldiers, and how they used a hook to tear the flesh off her body when she was nailed to the cross. Pretty gruesome, lucky you can’t see it up close really.

The carvings also show how her remains were moved to the cathedral from the Basilica of Santa María. Above the tomb, in the centre of the room, we have a statue of the Virgin Mary. On either side of her are four angels holding candles sticks. This tomb is a new incarnation from the 13th century but right behind it you can still see a piece of brokem marble from the original one. This tomb was made in 878!

High Altar

Above the tomb of Eulalia, we have the High Altar. The Altar is made of pure white marble and measures over three feet long. Above the altar hangs a grand crucifix, held up by six triumphant angels.

Ambulatory

At the east end of the cathedral, we find the ambulatory with its nine radiating chapels. These chapels are located behind high altar, raised above the crypt of Saint Eulalia below. The nine chapels located in the ambulatory are crowned with tall, glowing stained glass windows. This allows for the most heavenly, colourful light to pour over the high altar.

Rooftop

To access the roof, head towards the tower on the northern side of the cathedral. From here you take a lift to the top (you need a paid ticket) where you have a 360-degree view of the city.

The rooftop gets you up close to the various gargoyles and mythical stone creatures who call the roof their home. If you’re here anytime during the lunch hour you might have the chance to hear the bells ring. While you can hear these bells all over the city there is something so overwhelmingly awesome about hearing them so close.

Cloisters

To access the cloisters, you pass under a large white marble door. This is said to be a recovered piece from the original Romanesque cathedral built on the site in 1046. The archivolts here are decorated with geometric patterns but framed in gothic pediments.

The reliefs sculpted into the pillars of the Cloister’s arches show scenes from the Old Testament and from a legend about the Holy Cross. The keystones set into the vault depict scenes from the New Testament.

Each out of outdoor chapels here was initially dedicated to the patron saint of an institution or guild. They were built here under the protection of a specific family. Look on the floors and you can see markings of these guilds. the one below depicts a pair of scissors to represents the cloth merchants guild.

Ou com Balla

In the center of the Cloister is a garden with palm trees, magnolias, an orange tree and a fountain dating from the mid-15th century. The traditional “ou com balla” (the dancing egg) takes place right here each year for the celebration of Corpus Christi. The dancing egg was a trick the church’s acolytes would play where they would empty an egg of its insiders, then fill it with wax and seal the small hole. They could then place the egg atop the fountain’s jet and the egg would start turning without falling, and thus “dances.” 

Outside along the walls of the cloister are also several tombs embedded into the walls of the cathedral. These are of important people in the history of Barcelona such as the bronze tomb of Antoni Tallander, the royal jester, as identified by the bels that hang from his belt. There is also the tomb of the Sanllehy family  which is marked by the scenes of the burial of Christ.

Geese

In the stone confines of the cloister you might be surprised to find 13 white geese wandering around like they own the place. There are always only 13 geese, one for each of the year’s Saint Eulalia lived. They provide a sunny addition to the otherwise silent cathedral.

Capella de Santa Llúcia

At the Southwest corner of the Closters we find the quiant Romanesque chapel, built in 1257, dedicated to Santa Llúcia. Santa Llúcia is the patron saint of the blind and on December 13th, her saint’s day, you’ll see large numbers of blind people who come to pray at her chapel. Inside the chapel, you can see two ornate sepulchres containing the remains of Bishop Arnau of Gurb (from the 13th century) and Canon Francesc of Santa Coloma (from the 14th century).

This brings us to the end of the tour. Hopefully, you enjoyed exploring it as much as me and learned a little something about Catalan history along the way! Let me know what your favourite part of the Cathedral was or anything else you learned about this amazing place along the way!

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]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-self-guided-tour-of-the-barcelona-cathedral/feed/ 2 1446 The Ultimate Guided Tour of the Basilica Santa Croce, a Gothic-Renaissance Masterpiece https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-guided-tour-of-the-basilica-santa-croce-in-florence-a-gothic-renaissance-masterpiece/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-ultimate-guided-tour-of-the-basilica-santa-croce-in-florence-a-gothic-renaissance-masterpiece https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-guided-tour-of-the-basilica-santa-croce-in-florence-a-gothic-renaissance-masterpiece/#respond Fri, 01 Nov 2019 13:57:04 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//the-ultimate-guided-tour-of-the-basilica-santa-croce-in-florence-a-gothic-renaissance-masterpiece/ The Basilica Santa Croce is one of the most important architectural and historical masterpieces of Florentine art you'll find in the magnificent Renaissance city of Florence. Its iconic structure overpowers the square and seems to beckon visitors to come inside. Whereas some people are disappointed in visiting the interiors of the Duomo, this church is thoroughly fantastical, inside and out! I've attached at the bottom of this post a handy google map of all the different spots on this tour for easy-to-follow directions!

The post The Ultimate Guided Tour of the Basilica Santa Croce, a Gothic-Renaissance Masterpiece first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> The Basilica Santa Croce is one of the most important architectural and historical masterpieces of Florentine art in the magnificent Renaissance city of Florence. Its iconic structure overpowers the square and seems to beckon visitors to enter. Whereas some people are disappointed in visiting the interiors of the Duomo, this church is thoroughly fantastical, inside and out! At the bottom of this post, I’ve attached a handy google map of all the different spots on this tour for easy-to-follow directions!

Table Of Contents
  1. Hours and Admission
  2. History of Santa Croce
  3. Exterior of Santa Croce
  4. Layout of the Basilica
  5. High Altar
  6. Bardi Chapel
  7. Peruzzi Chapel
  8. Baroncelli Chapel‎ 
  9. Castellani Chapel
  10. Sacristy
  11. Rinuccini Chapel
  12. Medici Chapel
  13. The Pazzi Chapel
  14. Primary Cloister
  15. Cloister Tombs
  16. Secondary Cloister
  17. The Museo dell' Opera di Santa Croce

Hours and Admission

The entry in Santa Croce is much less of a trial than visiting the Duomo. After viewing the exterior, to enter the interior and purchase your ticket, walk along Largo Bargellini, the street to the left of the church, and you’ll see the single and family entrance along the side.

Hours:

Monday – Saturday: 9:30 am – 5:30 pm
Sundays and Holy Days: 2:00 pm – 5:30 pm (
Closed: New Year’s Day (January 1), Easter, St. Anthony of Padua (June 13), St. Francis (October 4), Christmas (December 25), St. Stephen’s Day (December 26).

Tickets:

Adults: €8
Kids aged from 11 to 17 years: €6
Audio Guides: €4

Access

Santa Croce is located in the heart of Florence. If you are arriving by train, at the Santa Maria Novella railway station, can easily reach it on foot with a walk of about 20 minutes through the historic centre. The visitors’ entrance and ticket office are in Largo Bargellini, along the side of the basilica.

History of Santa Croce

The first stone laid here was said to have been placed by St. Francis himself in 1228 BC. This Basilica has the honour of being the largest Franciscan church in the world! There are 16 chapels inside, many illuminated by the frescos of the legend Giotto himself. Construction on the church began in 1295 by Arnolfo di Cambio, the same architect as the Duomo. Its construction wouldn’t be completed until 1442, when it was consecrated by the Pope.

Exterior of Santa Croce

The exterior, however, is much more “modern” as it was built in 1860, during the Gothic revival period. Looking at the exterior facade, there are several similarities to that of the Duomo. It uses the same combination of white, pale green and red marble but in a more restrained fashion, as was the Franciscan way. The central portal of the church has a large pair of doors with beautiful carvings made out of wood instead of bronze. The architect of the facade was Niccolo Matas, who was, surprisingly enough for a Franciscan church, Jewish. He even designed a large blue Star of David to crown the church’s top as his little signature.

The church has three separate tympanums across the front. A tympanum is a semi-circular or triangular decorative surface over an entrance or door. The central one features an image of the ‘Triumph of the Cross‘ by Giovanni Duprè. The one on the left depicts the ‘Invention of the cross‘ by Titto Sarrocchi, and on the right, we have the ‘Vision of Constantine‘ by Emilio Zocchi.

Layout of the Basilica

The floorplan of the church is designed in the shape of an Egyptian “T” called the tau cross. This differs from the traditional Roman “t” cross design as the Franscians use the Egyptian tau as their symbol. The interior is a three-aisle design divided by two rows of thick octagonal columns. Between the columns are wide, pointed arches, which house the side family chapels. This design was heavily influenced by Cambio’s research into the architecture of ancient Rome, as was the fashion in the Renaissance.

Timber Ceiling

The ceiling is unique since you can admire the timber roof, replete with geometric patterns. The beams were painted in the 14th century, yet you can still make out the vibrant colours today! Along the walls of the Basilica are a series of tall and thin stained glass windows. Enter through the left portal to explore this part of the church, making your way around the interior clockwise.

The funerary monuments are one of the most macabre yet beautiful elements of Santa Croce. The church also goes by the nickname ‘The Temple of the Italian Glories’ because it is the resting place of so many incredible Italians. Over 300 tombs throughout the church date as far back as the 14th century. There are both tombs for the dead buried here and statues dedicated to those buried elsewhere. Many affluent families wanted to pay tribute to their favourite celebrities. So they would commission a funerary monument to be built for them inside this illustrious temple.

Galileo Galilei

One of the first of these tombs is Galileo. Yes, THE Galileo! Galileo Galilei, the famous father of modern science, died in Florence in 1642. He was buried here under a grand baroque tomb. Above the monument is a burst of famous scientists in the centre. His head is raised to the sky, always looking at the stars. On either side of him are sculptures which represent Geometry and Astronomy.

Lorenzo Ghiberti

Further up ahead is the tomb of Lorenzo Ghiberti, one of the most celebrated bronze smiths in Florence. He was the one who created those iconic Baptistry doors, making him a legend. But despite this fame, his resting place is slightly less opulent. There is only a simple stone marker on the floor. It is embellished only with an image of a great eagle surrounded by laurel leaves.

The Incredulity of St Thomas

Most of the large framed paintings which you’ll see as you walk along the side aisles were the curation and sometimes creation of Giorgio Vasari. In 1565, as of the initial construction of the church, Cosimo Medici wanted to redress it to make it a little more opulent. He employed Giorgio Vasari as his artist advisor. Vasari was the one who decided the narrative program of the paintings. He chose the subject of Christ’s passion, and each mural along the wall follows this narrative.

The painting of the Incredulity of St Thomas was done by Vasari himself. Vasari painted it in 1579 in the style of Mannerism which was popular in the late Renaissance. Mannerism exaggerates the qualities that the Renaissance emphasized, such as proportion, balance, and ideal beauty. In the centre of the painting, we find Christ and St. Thomas framed between two arches. The two sides get continuously darker and darker as they fade outwards, keeping the focus on these two central characters.

Pietà by Bronzino

Agnolo Bronzino was the court painter for Cosimo I de Medici. His painting of the Pieta, framed here in a thin golden frame, is fantastically real. The blue-coloured flesh is so lifelike that you feel almost sick looking upon it. Mary’s pained expression is heartbreaking as she looks upon her lifeless child.

Pipe organ

The church’s organ is a rather small, modest instrument compared to some grander organs in Europe. It was built by organ builder Tuscan Onofrio Zefferini in 1579. The case which surrounds the entire organ’s frame was made by Vasari.

Bardi Chapel

Many side chapels were purchased by wealthy families to dissolve their sins through financial transactions to the church. The Bardi family was one of the most prosperous merchants and banking families in Florence and thereby had a lot of crimes to dissolve. But this work of art would not save them from ruin in the mortal realm. In 1343 they lent the equivalent of 100 million dollars to the King of England during the hundred years’ war. When they lost and couldn’t repay the loan, this bankrupted the Bardi’s and left them in complete financial ruin.

But the frescoes and chapels we’re looking at were built during the height of their reign. The chapel was commissioned by a branch of the Bardi family, the Bardi di Vernio. There are two Bardi di Vernio chapels, the most important of which is located on the northern side. While the iconic Bardi Chapel was painted with frescoes by Giotto, this chapel has murals by Maso di Banco. Despite his less household name, Banco’s frescoes were so well done that Vasari mistakenly thought they were by Giotto when he first saw them. The chapel also contains a wooden sculpture of two angels designed by Giorgio Vasari.

Saint Sylvester

The murals inside this chapel depict the story of Saint Sylvester. Saint Sylvester, who became Pope, has a very fantastical legend. In the frescoes, you can see Emperor Constantine being baptized by Sylvester, the miracle of Sylvester’s resurrection of the bull and, most surprisingly, Sylvester’s defeat of the dragon! That’s right, he was said to have slain a dragon. And the resurrection of the two wizards the dragon killed with his breath. Fantastical indeed.

Crucifix by Donatello

But one of the most important art pieces inside the chapel is the Crucifix by Donatello. This crucifix was made in 1408 and imbues within that powerful Renaissance style. Donatello relied on raw human emotion and natural forms to create his cross. This figure does not attempt to be both beautiful and holy. It is more like a real-life portrayal of what it would have looked like to be crucified. Contorted, in agony, mouth open, his body twisted in an awkward position. It made the people who looked upon it react powerfully, as they could see themselves in the sculpture.

High Altar

The high altar is located inside Major Chapel, right in the centre of the church. Whereas the rest of the church doesn’t have the same lofty heights as other gothic churches of the era, the high altar soars above the rest of the building. Wonderfully embellished umbrella ribs in the vaults help this narrow centrepiece keep its structure and shape. Long, thin-mullioned windows stretch up the entire length of the Maggiore Chapel. The colours in these stained glass windows are brilliant and cast rainbow hues across the church.

Legend of the True Cross

Covering this space are frescoes depicting the Legend of the True Cross by Agnolo Gaddi from 1380. This story is the earliest surviving painting on this subject. The story is based on the legend of the cross on which Jesus was crucified. It’s said that the cross was made from a tree planted over the grave of Adam. The tree grew from the seeds of the original tree of sin. After years of growth, it was torn down by King Solomon to be used to make a bridge. The Queen of Sheba was given a message about the impending doom this wood would be transformed into. Although Solomon would rip it up afterwards, it was still salvaged and eventually became the instrument of passion. The frescoes can be read from top to bottom on the right wall and on the left.

The polyptych of Madonna and Saints by Niccolo di Pietro Gerini was also painted in the same style as Giotto. A polyptych is a panel painting which has been divided into sections. Along the back walls are stained glass windows representing the Deposition from the cross. These were created from drawings made by Lorenzo Ghiberti in the 14th century.

Bardi Chapel

Giotto had previously painted a fantastical masterpiece in the Church of Assisi, and the Bardi’s were anxious to have one of their own. Giotto’s six scenes in this chapel depict the ‘Life and Death of St. Francis.’ This piece was painted in the 1300s but heavily restored in the 17th and 19th centuries. The restoration was poor. It didn’t allow viewers to understand which part of the fresco was done by Giotto and what restoration work was done by less trained hands. So after much consideration, the restoration pieces were removed, and the original artworks by Giotto were the only parts left. This is why the fresco still looks unfinished. Giotto was one of the first artists of the Renaissance to propose a method of painting which focused on accurate proportions and shapes. His face looked like real people that the citizens of Florence could relate to.

Peruzzi Chapel

Peruzzi Chapel with frescoes by Giotto represents the scenes from the lives of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist. Although these are now pretty faded, they retain the artistry and shapes of those medieval principles. The frescoes are in such a state because when Giotto made them, he was experimenting with a new technique called secco. This technique combined lime and an organic binder with the paints to be applied upon the walls as frescoes. While secco was easier to use, it did result in a less long-lasting and pigmented mural. The chapel was known to be one of the significant influences on Michelangelo 140 years after Giotto first painted it. It was said that Michelangelo would come here to be inspired just a few years before he painted the Sistine Chapel.

Baroncelli Chapel‎ 

Turning towards the southern walls, you face the Baroncelli Chapel‎ in splendour. The chapel was built in 1338 and is covered in frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi. Gaddi worked directly under Giotto as the master’s apprentice. But Gaddi wasn’t one to simply follow the traditional path. He loved pushing the limits, experimenting and trying new and exciting methods. One was his use of geometry and perspective to create almost three-dimensional illusions inside his paintings.

The frescoes focus on the life of the Virgin Mary and Jesus’ presentation at the temple in Jerusalem. Many of these scenes take place at night, a unique choice at the time to present paintings in the evening when the background is dark. But Gaddi loved a challenge, and his scenes at twilight capture a shining brilliance which feels so unique to the art form at the time.

Castellani Chapel

Adjacent to the Baroncelli Chapel‎ , we find the impressive Castellani Chapel, immediately notable for the enormous Byzantine cross which hangs at the back of the chapel. The chapel was built in 1385 and commissioned by Vanni Castellani. The chapel and its frescoes are dedicated to Saint Anthony, the abbot. Anthony is thought to be the father of monks and the monastic lifestyle. They believed his ascetic and isolated life led to a better connection with God.

Sacristy

From the last chapel along the eastern wall, head through the corridor which leads to the sacristy. You’ll pass through a long corridor with various famous works of art that didn’t find their way into a family chapel. Upon stepping into the hallway, take the first left into the sacristy. A sacristy is a room for keeping vestments, other church furnishings, and sacred vessels. The sacristry was built in 1340 and commissioned by the Peruzzi family.

The room is distinctly gothic, with richly painted trusses on the ceiling. Surrounding the rest of the room are large wooden cabinets which contain various vestments and sacred relics collected by the church. But treasures inside the sacristy are overshadowed by an enormous fresco by Taddeo Gaddi. It took over 60 years for the entire piece to be completed, and Gaddi died before seeing it. The richly painted frame surrounding the panels looks straight out of an illuminated manuscript.

Rinuccini Chapel

Inside the sacristy, you’ll find the elaborate Rinuccini Chapel. This is one of the best-preserved parts of the church. The Rinuccini Chapel is in nearly the same condition as it was in the 14th century, with the same furnishings. The golden polyptych is silhouetted perfectly by the light pouring in through the gothic windows. On the right, we find frescoes that present Mary Magdalene’s life. On the left, we have murals depicting the life of the Virgin Mary, both painted by Giovanni da Milano. These frescoes are much paler than some of their counterparts found within the church. Giovanni da Milano found that warmer, softer colours allowed for more delicate storytelling, which felt appropriate for these two women.

Medici Chapel

After exploring the sacristy, continue walking down the corridor before leaving this area to see the famous Medici Chapel. This 15th-century family chapel was designed for the wealthy Medici family, commissioned by Cosimo, the Elder and designed by the family’s favour architect, Michelozzo. Entering this chapel, you’ll immediately find it much less colourful than the other chapels inside the church. It feels more restrained but is very large in comparison, complete with over a dozen pews.

The chapel is dedicated to the Medici’s patron saints Cosma and Damiano. These two saints were doctors, and the word in Italian for doctors is “Medici.” It seems like the Medicis picked a patron saint based solely on vanity. Above the altar is a beautiful terracotta glazed piece of the Madonna and Child surrounded by angels and saints. Above the altarpiece is a stained glass window by Alesso Baldovinetti with the image of the two patron saints. They are notable as each of them holds in their hand a feathered pen, representing their learned profession.

Annunciation by Donatello

Walking back outside to the main church, we now head down the right side of the nave to study the monuments located there. Along the wall, you’ll notice a small, grey stone bas-relief. This little scene of the Annunciation was made by Donatello in 1433. Donatello had been studying in Rome when he created this piece. The ancient Roman columns on either side indicate the influence of the ancient city upon the artist’s works. The entire scene seems to take place inside a Roman building, almost as if we are peeking at them mid-conversation. I especially love the little rust-coloured cherubs who playfully listen above the entire frame.

Niccolò Machiavelli Tomb

Niccolò Machiavelli was an Italian diplomat, politician, historian, philosopher, writer, playwright and poet of the Renaissance period. Can you say jack of all trades or what?! He is often referred to as the father of modern political philosophy. Although he died in 1527, his tomb wasn’t finished until 1787. The monument was designed by Alberto Rombotti and sculpted by Innocenzo Spinazzi. The woman in the rich draperies is the figure of Politica, the allegorical symbol for politics. She holds in one hand a portrait of Machiavelli; in the other, she holds scales, swords and scroll – all symbols of politics. The tomb bears the inscription “Tanto nomini nullum par eulogium,” which translates to “No elegy is equal to such a name.”

Pulpit

In such an open space, it’s easy to not get close to things that deserve a little more attention. The pulpit is one of those works of art you might pass right by but needs serious recognition. It was created by Benedetto da Maiano and is thought to be one of the most beautiful pulpits sculpted during the Renaissance. The design of the pulpit tells the story of the Life of Saint Francis. In each scene are fantastically realistic images of animals, landscapes and gorgeously emotive faces, which help describe this narrative. In between the filagreed brackets, which help hold up the pulpit, are tiny little statues set into adorable wooden niches. One of those little touches adds to the entire piece’s incredible details.

Vittorio Alfieri Tomb by Canova

Count Vittorio Alfieri was an Italian dramatist and poet. He was considered the “founder of Italian tragedy” and died in 1803. His family bought a spot inside the church as his resting place and commissioned neoclassical artist Antonio Canova to create his tombstone. Canova was famous for his baroque-inspired designs, which always had a fair amount of dramatic flair. This would no doubt have been something which Alfieri himself would have appreciated. The allegorical figure in the process of laying a wreath on his tomb is from Italy. She is mourning the loss of one of her children. It was once said of Canova that “as long as Canova exists, immortality can be bought.” His sculptures are so powerful they seem to find a way of stirring people’s souls until time immemorial.

Cenotaph of Dante

The Cenotaph for Dante (buried in Ravenna) is one of the most moving monuments. The poet’s monument is called a ‘cenotaph,’ a tomb without the remains of the deceased. On the front of the tomb are carved the words “Onorate L’Altissimo Poeta,” which translates to “Honor the Poet of the Highest Regard.” On the right of the monument is the sculpture of Poetry, who rests slumped over his tomb, crying out in mourning. Dante was poetry’s greatest treasure, and she is lost without him. On the left, we have the allegorical sculpture of Italy (a figure you’ll see a few times on this tour).

This symbolic sculpture is often referred to as Italia turrita. Turrita means “with towers,” as the woman’s crown is made up of towers intended to represent the various cities in Italy. In the centre of the crown is a five-pointed star, ‘Stella d’Italia, ‘ which symbolizes the shining destiny of the country. The turrita’s hand gestures towards the central figure atop the rest of the group. This is Dante himself. Immortalized in stone for eternity. Even here, he sits with a hand on his chin, like he is mid-thought. I love to stare at him and wonder if some of that creative genius, frozen in stone, might be transferred to me.

Michelangelo Tomb

But of all the tombs, the most important is Michelangelo’s. Although he died in Rome, he is buried here beneath a monument which looks more like an enormous architectural feature than a simple tomb. Across the memorial are statues of allegorical figures representing Sculpture, Architecture and Painting. Each one of them was lovingly sculpted by his friend Giorgio Vasari. Above the tombstone is a bust o the artist himself. When the monument was unveiled, it became THE masterpiece for anyone planning their funerary monument to reference and attempt to outdo.

Tomb of Giovan Battista Niccolini

Giovan Battista Niccolini was an Italian poet and playwright during the Italian unification movement. He died in 1861 in Florence, and his tomb lies here under one of the most recognizable monuments in the church. Above his grave is the Statue of Poetry, created by Pio Fedi. This masterpiece almost too closely resembles the iconic Statue of Liberty in America, although at a much smaller scale. Although there is no documented evidence of the creation of the two, the similarities are striking. The drapery of her robe and even her pose are almost identical. Even her crown of sun rays is the same. The main difference is the face. This one is softer and more feminine, while the Statue of Liberty is more severe and almost androgynous-looking.

The other difference is what they carry in their hand. This statue holds a broken chain, a symbol of the defeat of tyranny, while the one in New York holds a burning torch. The Florentine version proceeded with the American design for three years. Still, it’s interesting to wonder if French sculptor Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi paid a visit to Santa Croce before creating his majestic figure. This brings us back to the front of the church, completing out 360 degrees tour of the interior. It’s not time to head out to the cloisters. The exit towards the cloisters is through a door beside the Dontallo Annunciation.

The Pazzi Chapel

Outside, before your cloisters, you’ll pass under the domed ceiling, which leads into the Pazzi Chapel. The Pazzi Chapel was designed by the master architect Filippo Brunelleschi in 1430. The Pazzi family commissioned him specifically for this chapel; no doubt, he would not have come cheap. But the results are worth it! Before entering the chapel, look up at the small outer dome above the entrance doorway. This dome is covered in gorgeously detailed glazed terracotta flowers. The four seasons’ blue and yellow flowers and fruits stand out against the dull colours of the rest of the exterior stonework. In the centre of the flowers is the coat of arms of the Pazzi family, which is made of two fish and four crosses.

When you walk inside, the most impressive feature is the vaulted dome with round windows surrounding the base. On the top is a lantern which lets more natural light flow into the otherwise darkened chapel. Around the dome’s edges are the figures of four saints; St. Matthew, St. Luke, St. John and St. Mark. Along the walls and even on parts of the dome are various lunettes with glazed terracotta images of Saints on them. What’s shocking to learn about this space is it was once an old piece of the cloisters. Brunelleschi had to work within the original structure to create his new interior. Despite these limitations, the architect still managed to create something beautiful.

Primary Cloister

Santa Croce is home to three cloisters constructed in different periods by different architects. The first and primary cloister was designed by Arnolfo di Cambio. This is the largest cloister, intended to join the church to the refectory with an open garden in the centre. Arnolfo di Cambio’s cloisters can be identified by his signature use of gothic octagonal pilasters with leafy capitals instead of roman renaissance columns. You can still make out the ancient gardens in the corner of the galleries. The tall cedars of the Atlas and the Himalayas are the most prominent of the remaining plants, giving the stone structure a little more life!

Cloister Tombs

Before entering the cloister yard, take a moment to walk down the tombs. Along the northern wall, against the side of the church, are what is called “the cloister of the dead.” This area was built in 1869 underneath the raised porch. Under here, you’ll find more funerary monuments and gravestones. These stones were moved here from the former cemetery, which had been destroyed to make room for additional constructions.

Secondary Cloister

The second cloister goes by the name “Brunelleschi’s cloister, as it was built by Filippo Brunelleschi. This cloister is much small and older than the previous one. It was built in 1470, located along the opposite side of the refectory (which will be the last stop on our tour.)

Florence Nightingale

The cloister houses a beautiful statue of Florence Nightingale. Florence Nightingale is thought to be the mother of nursing. But she was English, so what was she doing inside an Italian cloister? When her mother was pregnant, she travelled to Italy with her husband and unexpectedly gave birth in Florence. Her parents had been so taken with the city that they named her after it.

Another oddity in the middle of the cloister is the 20th-century Henry Moore sculpture ‘Warrior with Shield.’ It was initially donated to the British Institute but moved to Santa Croce. Moore’s sculpture might seem out of place, as he was so devoutly a modernist in the middle of a renaissance mecca. But Moore actually found great inspiration when he visited Italy. The quote says, “I had to go to Italy against my will. But thank goodness, now I did go.” He had thought it would be a place of stagnant art, nothing new or inspiriting. But instead, he found a place where art was still alive, where it would ring out everywhere he looked. He fused this passion with his modernist ideals and found a new outlook on the work he began to create.

The Museo dell’ Opera di Santa Croce

The Great Refectory of Santa Croce was the dining room where the monks would eat their meals and share in communion. Interestingly, the words come from the Latin reficere “to remake or restore,” so a refectorium is “a place one goes to be restored.” This is also where we get the name “restaurant” today! For the monks, this room was a place of meditation and sustenance. Today the refectory serves as the Museo dell’ Opera di Santa Croce.

The museum was established after the great floods in Florence in 1966. The water rose in the Arno river and flooded the city, destroying dozens of homes. Inside Santa Croce, the water levels were five meters deep! Hundreds of precious paintings and other treasures were severely water-damaged and needed immediate restoration. The refectory was turned into a de facto art hospital. Here, the pieces could be laid out and worked on since most of the other spaces in the city were occupied with other restoration works. Some of the pieces would need years of restoration work to be completed. In 2006, the city opened this space into a museum where people could see these historical pieces as they were being restored. It was an opportunity to see how the present day was working hard to preserve this treasured past.

Triumph of Death

The first few rooms of the museum are dedicated to various frescoes which had to be removed from their original locations due to deterioration or damage. They have been preserved inside new panels to ensure their account lasts for eons. One of the most important of these panels is the fragment of the “Triumph of Death” painted by Andrea Orcagna in the mid-14th century. It depicts a scene from hell, as illustrated by Dante. It depicts snakes entangling sinners, dragons, devils devouring the dead, groups of people crammed into tiny spaces trying to breathe, and strange animals prowling the underground. 

The Last Supper

In almost every refectory, you’ll find scenes from the Last Supper, but the one painted on the wall of this Great refectory is genuinely awe-inspiring. This fresco, painted by Taddeo Gaddi, on the wall of the refectory, is made up of six different scenes. The six scenes took over 30 years to complete and finally finished in 1366! Despite the age of the piece, the colours are still shockingly vibrant. In the very centre, we have the Crucifixion. Instead of portraying Christ solely on a piece of wood, the cross here is more like a tree of life.

Sprouting forth from its branches are inscriptions written on white scrolls. The inscriptions announced to the prophets surrounding the scene the message of salvation, which Jesus died for humanity’s sins, and preached his entire life. Running along the bottom is the seminal scene of the Last Supper. Many areas from this portion of the mural are missing. Those spots were either damaged or destroyed by the great flood. On the left side, we see two panels; the top portrays St. Francis receiving the stigmata and below the St. Louis of Toulouse. On the right, up top, we see an image of St. Benedict’s retreat and below, Jesus dining at the Pharisees. 

Cimabue Crucifix

One of the last pieces you’ll see in the refectory is Cimabue’s Crucifix. Although his historical piece was damaged during the catastrophic flood that decimated Florence in the 60s, we still have a good sample of this religious icon. The cross was made in 1265 by the Florentine painter Cimabue. The cross was made from five primary and eight ancillary timber boards to form the shape of the Byzantine cross. Another difference this crucifix has from others is the humanist painting style in iconography. Structure, posture, and even colour conveyed silent messages about humanity and nature.

The shape of the body on the cross and how he is positioned feel more natural and effective. He seems almost to fall down as if he can’t hold himself anymore. The crucifix was one of the most critical pieces from the church to be destroyed in the great flood. Over 60% of the paint on the surface was damaged, and its restoration became priority #1! As artisans and restorers from all over the world came to its aid, it became the symbol of the flood and hope for restoration. Today you can still see the crucifix on display and admire the work of many dedicated artists.

I think Santa Croce is my favourite Florence church, despite it perhaps not being the most famous. The histories here run so deep, yet many of the original works of art, furnishings and treasures are still on display, as they have been for hundreds of years.

Happy Travels Adventurers.

The post The Ultimate Guided Tour of the Basilica Santa Croce, a Gothic-Renaissance Masterpiece first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-guided-tour-of-the-basilica-santa-croce-in-florence-a-gothic-renaissance-masterpiece/feed/ 0 1206 14 of the Best Places to Visit in Coyoacán to Spend the Perfect Day in Mexico City https://thecreativeadventurer.com/14-thing-to-see-and-do-to-spend-a-perfect-day-in-coyoacn-mexico-city/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=14-thing-to-see-and-do-to-spend-a-perfect-day-in-coyoacn-mexico-city https://thecreativeadventurer.com/14-thing-to-see-and-do-to-spend-a-perfect-day-in-coyoacn-mexico-city/#respond Fri, 27 Sep 2019 11:50:00 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//14-thing-to-see-and-do-to-spend-a-perfect-day-in-coyoacn-mexico-city/ Coyoacán is one of the most colourful and yet quiet neighbourhoods in Mexico City. Coyoacán is the place I come to escape the crowds and relax in some of the most beautiful parks and meander down the most vibrant streets. Coyoacán was the home of Frida Kahlo throughout her entire life. It's no surprise why she chose to stick around this bohemian community rather than move into the bustling city centre. Every park, house and street corner is busting with energy and natural artistry.

The post 14 of the Best Places to Visit in Coyoacán to Spend the Perfect Day in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> Coyoacán is one of the most colourful and yet quiet neighbourhoods in Mexico City. This district of Mexico City is the place I come to escape the crowds and relax in some of the most beautiful parks and meander down the most vibrant streets. Coyoacán was the home of Frida Kahlo throughout her entire life. It’s no surprise why she chose to stick around this bohemian community rather than move into the bustling city centre. Every park, house and street corner is busting with energy and natural artistry.

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Table Of Contents
  1. Access
  2. History
  3. #1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
  4. #2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán
  5. #3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza
  6. #4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán
  7. #5 Learn about Mexico's Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares
  8. #6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul
  9. #7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated
  10. #8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho
  11. #9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán
  12. #10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa
  13. #11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina
  14. #12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
  15. #13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán
  16. #14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, Line 3 to Coyoacan Station, but the station is a bit of a walk from the main areas of the tour. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City.

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History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, and mythology with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer the land they controlled.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores in 1519 the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexicas, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and gardens.

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#1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

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#2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

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The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours. They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions.

The Monastery

The monastery is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

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#3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th-century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

#4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán

The Mercado de Coyoacán has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, marketplace was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

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Shopping in the Market

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

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But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan ! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shtrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

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El Borrego de Oro

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

#5 Learn about Mexico’s Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares

The National Museum of Popular Culture is one of the most vibrant museums you’ll visit anywhere in the world. Rather than old painting or ancient relics, the museum focuses on temporary exhibitions which rotate and change throughout the year. They call themselves a living entity. There is always something new to see. But regardless of what is on exhibition, there will also be items featuring expressions of popular, indigenous and urban cultures. The museum is a great place to come to learn about Mexico’s current culture and art scene. 

#6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

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The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

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#7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

#8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick-me-up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

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#9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán

This ice cream shop across from the park has been serving up traditional flavours of ice cream inspired by the many different fruits which grow only around this part of the country. Don’t recognize the name or a certain flavour? Give it a try! You might be totally shocked to find a new favourite flavour, even if you had no idea what it actually was. This is an especially good treat if you’re visiting on a hot day. Grab a few scoops and relax under the shade of the park nearby.

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#10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

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One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán. Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

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#11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina

The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

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#12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings!

There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century. In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple.

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#13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

#14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

The Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives has 30 different movie theatres housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

The post 14 of the Best Places to Visit in Coyoacán to Spend the Perfect Day in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/14-thing-to-see-and-do-to-spend-a-perfect-day-in-coyoacn-mexico-city/feed/ 0 1099 Best Walking Tour of Historic Coyoacán, Mexico City https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-self-guided-walking-tour-of-historic-coyoacn-mexico-citys-oldest-neighbourhood/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-ultimate-self-guided-walking-tour-of-historic-coyoacn-mexico-citys-oldest-neighbourhood https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-self-guided-walking-tour-of-historic-coyoacn-mexico-citys-oldest-neighbourhood/#comments Thu, 12 Sep 2019 20:37:07 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//the-ultimate-self-guided-walking-tour-of-historic-coyoacn-mexico-citys-oldest-neighbourhood/ Coyoacán was once a sleepy neighbourhood outside the centre of the city where no tourists would...

The post Best Walking Tour of Historic Coyoacán, Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> Coyoacán was once a sleepy neighbourhood outside the centre of the city where no tourists would ever think of entering. But since the Frida Kahlo craze and her rise to fame, this neighbourhood which was once her home, has since become and a must-see destination for anyone visiting Mexico City. Many people visit Coyoacán on a bus tour simply to see the Casa Azul and leave shortly after. I implore you to block off an entire day to wander these streets! Take some time to discover the hidden secrets of the oldest neighbourhood in Mexico City.

This guided walking tour will lead you across the all the important stops in Coyoacán. I think to take it at a leisurely pace, leave yourself a whole day so you can take your time and go inside a few of the stops along the way. A google map with all the locations on the tour can be found at the bottom of this post.

Table Of Contents
  1. Access
  2. History
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Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, but the station is quite far away from our starting point. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City. The journey takes around 25 minutes depending on traffic.

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History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer land.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores of Mexico in 1519, the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexican tribes, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. Cortés established himself in Coyoacán with the tribe he had become close with. He brought with him much wealth and Coyoacán bloomed as one of the most beautiful villages in the world, not just in Mexico. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can still find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and lush green gardens.

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Map Of Walking Tour

Begin at: Frida Kahlo Park

Wake up bright and early and head on down to the start of your tour, Frida Kahlo Park. Since Frida is the most well-known resident of the neighbourhood, it seems fitting to start our journey here. This square honours the memory of the great Mexican painter. You can find a bronze sculpture of her with a full Tehuana dress, standing proudly in the centre of the plaza. Beside her, is her husband, Diego Rivera, looking on lovingly. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned and geometric shapes, resembling those of Aztec pyramids forming the archway overtop of the pathway.

 
 
 
 
 
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Plaza de la Conchita

Early in the morning, this peaceful square is practically empty. Only a few tamale sellers might be seen passing through on their way to hot spots in the centre of Coyoacán. In the middle of this square stands the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception Church, or “La Conchita“. La Conchita is a nickname for the church which literally translate into, “the little shell”. Although the church is now closed for restoration work, walking around this plaza will still provide an excellent introduction to the neighbourhood.

When the Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes arrived in Coyoacán, he built this Church on what once was a pre-Hispanic ceremonial site. This was where Cortes held the very first Christian mass in the new land. The building’s exterior has an incredible stonework patterned facade, meant to resemble a the texture of a shell. The restoration taking place is attempting to repaint the church the same canary yellow as it once would have been coloured.

Casa de la Malinche

Walking north along the park, along Higuera street, you’ll pass the Casa de la Malinche. Although not open to the public, this house is thought to have been initially built for Cortés’ Spanish wife, Catalina Juárez de Marcaida. ‘La Malinche’ is the Spanish word for ‘the captain’s woman‘. Catalina Juárez de Marcaida was murdered in this very spot as she was seen to be a traitor to her people and even sometimes blamed for the downfall of the Aztec empire.

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Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

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Calle de Higuera

Walking along the Calle de Higuera, up towards our next stop, take some time to observe the houses and buildings on either side of the street. This is one of the oldest streets in the city. Many of these homes were built in the colonial era and have been catalogued for their historical value.

Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

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Church Interior

The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours.

They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions. The monastery portion of the church is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

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Centenario Plaza

Spend some time wandering the two adjoining parks, the Centenario Garden and Hidalgo Plaza. The gated entrance to the Jardin del Centenario is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. It was once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

In the centre of Centenario Plaza is a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below. Underfoot, the street is paved with red and black volcanic stone from Mexico.

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Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

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Casa Municipal

Across from Hidalgo Plaza, you’ll find the Hernan Cortés house or Casa Municipal. It was built in the 18th century as an administration building for the government. Although called the Cortes house, the conquistador never lived here. He did in fact life in Coyoacán from 1521 to 1522 but never on this property, even though a placard on the building says he did...the original fake news I suppose. Perhaps he simply spent so many hours inside these walls that people simply assumed he must live there.

Cortés resided on a piece of land once owned by the indigenous leader of Coyoacán, Juan de Guzmán Iztolinque, located where we now find La Conchita Church. The current incarnation of the Casa Municipal was built in the 18th century by Cortés’ descendants. The building was where the government of Coyoacán did all their business until 1928 when this district was absorbed as a municipality of Mexico City.

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Mercado Artesanal

Across the street from Hidalgo Plaza is the yellow archway entrance to the Mercado Artesanal Coyoacán. While this artist market is less impressive than the Mercado De Artesanias La Ciudadela, the courtyard of the Artesanal market here well worth checking out for the beautiful ‘papel picado’ (pecked paper) which hang from either side of the small garden. The prices in this market are actually very reasonable (sometimes cheaper than in the city centre), but the selection isn’t extensive. I did find some beautiful glass work which I hadn’t seen anywhere though so you really never know what you’ll find. And if this is your only opportunity to visit a market in Mexico City than this is a great opportunity.

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Mercado de Coyoacán

Head north along Aguayo and turn down Ignacio Allende where you’ll spot the terra cotta roof tiles of the Mercado de Coyoacán. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, market place was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

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Market Stalls

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

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But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

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Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

 
 
 
 
 
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La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Museum

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

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The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

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Leon Trotsky House Museum

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick me up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

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Le Bipo

If coffee won’t suffice and you’re looking for something a little more intense, head across to Le Bipo, across from Allende Park. This hip bar is a stylish place for an afternoon drink and some great people watching. For something really unique, try the Mauricio Garcés, a mezcal and with frozen pineapple soda, topped with chili powder.

Churreria General de la Republica

On your way back towards the western part of down, you’ll pass back from through the Jardin Centenario once more. Across from the park is the Churreria General de la Republica which sells some fantastic churros, served up with a variety of dipping sauces. I love a churro but I think I love dipping them even more! If you’re hankering for a snack, this is a great place to stop for a quick break and take a seat in the park.

La Casa Del Coleccionista

Right around the corner from the churros bakery is La Casa Del Coleccionista. This little shop sells antiques of all kinds. You can find everything from flatware, toys, paintings, vases, coins and more! Even if you don’t leave with anything, this place is like visiting a museum of Coyoacán’s ephemera.

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Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

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Casa De Diego De Ordaz

One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán.

Italian Cultural Institute

Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

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Parque Santa Catarina

For a quiet break, stop off in the Parque Santa Catarina. The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

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Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property.

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In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings! There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century.

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Frida and Diego Statue

In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. Behind the walls of the garden, to the south, see if you can see the rooftop of La Callejón del Aguacate. This house is one of the most haunted in the Coyoacan. It is said to be haunted by the ghost of a woman and is a frequent place where local school children will be seen ghost hunting after hours.

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Barricas Don Tiburcio

Continuing along Avenue Francisco Sosa, stop in at one of the most adorable groceries stores, Barricas Don Tiburcio. This boutique shop sells the finest wines from all around Mexico, if you’re a big wine fan, they are very well versed in the different varieties and can send you home with a real winner. They also sell delicious handcrafted Mexican products such as Oaxaca cheese, grasshoppers, prickly pear candies, peanut jams, queso chihuahua and more!

Fonoteca Nacional

Towards the end of Avenue Francisco Sosa you’ll come upon the colourful Fonoteca Nacional, also known as the “House of Sounds of Mexico“. This beautiful building and the tranquil gardens which surround it, is the perfect place to come and wander to see if anything is going on. There is often free concerts or exhibitions happening in the various rooms, so it’s worth poking your head inside to see what’s going on.

Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

Centenario 107

After a long walk through the park, it’s time for dinner. Stop off at Centenario 107 for a laid back, colourful dinner. Colourful both in the atmosphere, decor as well as the food! There is an excellent selection of traditional delicacies as well as local craft beers and speciality mezcals.

Cineteca Nacional

Our last stop on tour, as the sun begins to set is at the Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives. This 30 screen movie theatre is housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-self-guided-walking-tour-of-historic-coyoacn-mexico-citys-oldest-neighbourhood/feed/ 1 1073 The Ultimate Highlight Tour of La Sagrada Familia, an Insider’s Guide to Barcelona https://thecreativeadventurer.com/top-12-things-to-see-when-visiting-la-sagrada-familia-an-insiders-guide-to-barcelona/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=top-12-things-to-see-when-visiting-la-sagrada-familia-an-insiders-guide-to-barcelona https://thecreativeadventurer.com/top-12-things-to-see-when-visiting-la-sagrada-familia-an-insiders-guide-to-barcelona/#respond Sun, 05 May 2019 14:55:09 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//top-12-things-to-see-when-visiting-la-sagrada-familia-an-insiders-guide-to-barcelona/ This is my highlights tour to see the most important aspects of the La Sagrada Familia. It’s perfect for those who just want a short introduction to the church or who are on a time crunch!

The post The Ultimate Highlight Tour of La Sagrada Familia, an Insider’s Guide to Barcelona first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> La Sagrada Familia is the beating heart of the city of Barcelona. It can be seen across the skyline almost anywhere you go. The top of the spires peeked out, watching over the city at all times. Designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, construction began in 1882, and you might be surprised to learn that development is still ongoing. Currently, the best projection on its completion is 2026, a significant year which marks the centenary of the death of Gaudí. Despite its incomplete nature, this is THE MOST important sight to see when visiting Barcelona. Its history, design and the feeling you get upon stepping inside are unparalleled. The church feels like a summation of what Barcelona is all about and understanding it before visiting or while you tour is essential to better enjoying this fantastic monument.

This is my highlights tour but if you’re interested in a super in-depth guide, check out my ‘The Complete Guide to Visiting Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia‘.

Access

The Sagrada Familia is pretty easily accessible since it’s located in the centre of town. By metro, you just need to hop on the L5 line towards Sants Station. Upon getting out of the metro, simply follow the signs for the ‘Sagrada Familia.’ If you are arriving by bus, get on the H10 and get off at the València, Lepant stop. If you bought a Hop-On Hop-Off Bus ticket, these also all stop right in front of the church.

Tickets

As the Sagrada Familia is the most famous landmark in Barcelona, it draws in some shocking numbers daily. It’s no surprise that thousands of people enter their doors daily. To ensure you can experience this church easily, it’s always best to book your tickets in advance. You can buy your tickets online up to two months in advance, but I’d advise that you only book them about a week or two before your arrival unless you’re visiting during the holiday season.

When to Go?

When booking your ticket, you need to select a specific entry time. I’d recommend not leaving it too late at night since you want to give yourself plenty of time to explore before the church closes. I’d recommend booking your ticket an hour or two before sunset. That way, you can see the building in the light of day and enjoy the magnificent lighting effect of the sunset across the structure. The golden light inside the Basilica casts the most magical glow over the entire nave, and it feels like being transported to another earthly plane of existence.

Which ticket to buy?

There are basically four ticket types for visiting the Sagrada Familia

History of La Sagrada Familia

During the 19th century Barcelona, along with the rest of Europe, was undergoing a significant change. The church that had once held such immense power and authority over cities now lost its cultural influence with the growth of independent governments. Urban lifestyles were changing the way that Catalonians lived, and more and more, the church was becoming less and less a central part of their daily routine.

In 1866 the Spanish clergy created the Association of Devotees of Saint Joseph, who took it upon themselves to help bring back the relevance of faith and spirituality in Catalonia. They raised enough money to start construction on a wondrous temple, so spectacular and eye-catching that it would be the spot where pilgrims from all over the world would travel and which would encourage locals to come back into the fold. The church was dedicated to the Holy Family. The first architect of the church was Francisco de Paula del Villar y Lozano, but soon after construction started, he resigned. They then enlisted Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. And that one decision would be the catalyst for the creation of what is now one of the greatest manmade wonders of the world.

About La Sagrada Familia

The Sagrada Familia is 4,500 square meters large, the size of an American football field, and when you see it in person, you can truly understand just how big that is. The Basilica’s layout is that of a traditional Latin cross design. The Latin cross design features five naves, a crossing, an apse and an exterior cloister-style ambulatory.

The exterior has three different facades, each a varied work of art whose imagery tells a story. Although not yet built, the tallest part of the church will be 172.5 meters tall, the highest point in the city but shorter than Montjuic Mountain (because no manmade building should exceed what God created). The church can hold 14,000 worshippers! That’s the size of a small city. Gaudí wanted to create a place where everyone in the city could gather in one place, making it feel like it was always open to whoever wanted to come in. A small church just wouldn’t have had the same effect.

#1. The Nativity Facade

This was the only part of the church which was entirely designed by Gaudi and which he almost saw finished as it was completed in 1935, just after his death. He was there almost daily overseeing the work, and it feels like the part of the church which is the most personal. The three porticos on the Nativity facade are each dedicated to a theological virtue of the three members of the Holy Family; Hope, Charity and Faith.

#2. The Tree of Life

At the top of one of the Nativity facade’s porticos stands the Tree of Life, a bright green cypress tree. The tree is one of the only colourful parts of the exterior, covered with polychrome. Polychrome decorates architectural elements, like pottery or sculpture, in various colours. The cypress tree symbolizes eternity since it’s an evergreen plant and never loses its leaves. Covering the tree are 21 white doves which fly out of their nests and into the sky. On the top of the tree, like a Christmas Star, is the red and white symbol of the holy trinity. The Greek cross formed the base of this symbol. The Greek cross combines the letters’ alpha’ and ‘omega,’ which mean the beginning and the end.

#3. The Charity Portico Vault

The vault in the Charity portico contains the scene of the Annunciation where the archangel Gabriel tells Mary that she is the chosen one who will bring the son of God into this world. Surrounding this petite scene are the signs of the zodiac depicted in constellations across the sky, just as they would have been on the night Jesus was born. Bands of rosary beads surround the scene.

Hanging around the rosary are medallions carved in stone representing the ‘Miraculous Medals’ you find around rosary bracelets. Above the Charity doorways, here is a chorus of angels. Each of them is a musician, playing instruments popular in both religious settings, like the lute, the violin and the harp, and instruments more accessible to the commoners, like the guitar, the bagpipes and the tambourine. Once more, this was a way of the common fold being able to see themselves in the divine. Running up between the two sets of stained glass windows behind the angels is the multi-pointed star of Bethlehem. This was the star that shone in the sky to announce the birth of Jesus.

#4. The Spires

Gaudi desired to make the Sagrada Familiar as the tallest building in Barcelona. He was inspired by stories of architects in medieval times who built their churches as the central figure in the city. These churches needed to be tall as they were often used as meeting points, a guiding light to those travelling into town. Their bell towers signal the beginning of the workday or even warn people of fires, earthquakes or other devastating events.

Gaudi wanted to implement this same idea, but just one tower wouldn’t suffice. He decided to far and away exceed anything created for basilicas before. His design called for eighteen spires, reaching up towards the heavens. The hollow and hole-filled design of the spires makes them look like a beehive or anthill, as the stone’s colour closely resembles the earth. But the hollow design was actually a form of lanterning, an architectural element that illuminates the church while also giving it enormous height and grandeur.

#5. The Rosary Portal

You’ll first pass through the Rosary Portal to enter the church’s interior. This incredible doorway is called the door of ‘Our Lady of the Rosary.’ In the tympanum above the doorway is the sculpture of the Virgin Mary holding a crowed baby Jesus. Mary also wears a crown, as she is the Queen of Heaven on Earth, but she is also symbolically crowned with an archway of roses on the portal above her. Since the rose is the symbol of purity is almost always hidden somewhere in depictions of the Virgin Mary. Above this doorway is a cupola lantern which perfectly lets in a ray of light which highlights Mary’s face. This effect is almost too beautiful, and it looks heavenly if you didn’t know the cupola was there.

#6. The Arborescent Columns

The interior of the church was meant to resemble a spiritual forest. Gaudi wanted it to feel like a retreat into nature. Gothic churches were revolutionary in creating openness and space; they wanted the interior to feel light and the high ceilings as if they were reaching up toward the heavens. Gaudi once more wanted to take this to the next level. He wanted to incorporate huge stained glass windows on either side, which meant they could not be load bearing, so that load had to be carried elsewhere.

Gaudi researched for years to develop this new concept called the ‘Arborescent Columns.’ Inspired by the strength and beauty of large trees, the columns tilt slightly about their height so they can withstand the roof load. They also split off in two directions, like the branches of a tree and also like a flying buttress to better support the vaults. You expect to see birds flying from branch to branch, making a nest for themselves at any time. And what better place to do it?!

#7. The Vaults

Gaudi combined classical Gothic architecture and Catalan art to create these star-like vaults on the roof, which light could easily pass through. The stars are formed by combining concave and convex hyperboloid shapes, which are critical systems used to disperse light and spread out the roof load. The shape of the stars also closely resembles the form of palm leaves, a powerful symbol in Christianity. Each vault centre is filled with a light diffuser decorated with colourful stained glass in various Christian symbols.

#8. Stained Glass Windows

Light is one of the strongest symbols of faith in Christianity, so it was crucial for Gaudi to bring as much natural as possible, the light of God, into the Basilica. Gaudi developed a new way of creating stained glass, comprised of three panes resulting in a mixture of tones and colours to cast a magical glow into the nave. The leading artist who created these windows was Vila-Grau. Vila-Grau used curved shapes to create abstract forms and ensured that the warm and cool tones were kept separate, resulting in this consistent light flow.

#9. The High Altar’s Baldachin

Over the high altar, we find the incredible sculptural masterpiece, the ‘baldachin.’ A baldachin is a large canopy in a heptagon shape with seven edges, traditionally placed over an altar. These sever corners represent the seven gifts of the Holy Spirit; wisdom, understanding, counsel, fortitude, knowledge, piety and fear of the Lord. Fifty little hanging lights illuminate the rim of the canopy. Around the rim springs grape vines and wheat, the symbols of the Eucharist. A ribbon around the baldachin writes out the Prayer of Glory in back-lit red and Gaudí-style lettering.

#10. The Choir Galleries

Above the nave is a separate space that houses the choir during church services. This area can hold over 1000 singers since Gaudi wanted their voices to fill this enormous temple. Gaudi thought the importance of acoustics in the building to be of the utmost importance as he loved music so much. It was one of the few ways he could unwind and relax. The hyperbolic vaulting he used throughout the church was made to reverberate the sound in a harmonious way and provide light.

#11. The Passion Facade

The final portion of the tour of the church is the Passion Facade. This facade is located on the side of the building where the sun sets, the darkness reflecting the ultimate sacrifice and death Jesus would incur. Compared with the ornate, natural forms of the Nativity Facade, the Passion Facade is gloomy, stark and restrained. Gaudi made sketches for this part of the church when he fell ill with a terrible sickness and almost passed away.

This illness was the closest to death Gaudi would ever come since his eventual death would sneak up on him. During this sickness, he was consumed with fear and poured all these emotions into the design of this part of the temple. While Gaudi died long before this part of the church began construction, architect Josep Maria Subirachs took up his mantle and made it his mission to create precisely what Gaudi had envisioned. Subirach’s figures are inspired by expressionism, in contrast to the realistic figures on the Nativity portal. There are over 100 figures depicted, grouped into 13 different scenes. They rise upwards in an S-shape, starting, in chronological order, with the last supper and ending in the crucifixion.

#12. The Gaudi Museum

Located in the basement of the cathedral is the Antoni Gaudi Workshop and Museum. Although many of the original documents and plans were destroyed when a bomb went off during the Civil War, this newly created space is where the city has taken it upon itself to conserve, restore and put on display pieces of the history of the construction of this church. You can find drawings, period photographs, ceremonial furniture and several scale model copies of the originals here. There is also a model of the original workshop where Gaudi would spend all this time.

Have you been here before? What was your favourite thing to see? If you’re on your way, let me know what you’re looking forward to the most.

Happy Travel Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Highlight Tour of La Sagrada Familia, an Insider’s Guide to Barcelona first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/top-12-things-to-see-when-visiting-la-sagrada-familia-an-insiders-guide-to-barcelona/feed/ 0 886 The Ultimate Insider’s Self-Guided Tour of Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in Barcelona https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-insiders-self-guided-tour-of-gaudis-sagrada-familia-in-barcelona/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-ultimate-insiders-self-guided-tour-of-gaudis-sagrada-familia-in-barcelona https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-insiders-self-guided-tour-of-gaudis-sagrada-familia-in-barcelona/#comments Sun, 05 May 2019 02:40:21 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//the-ultimate-insiders-self-guided-tour-of-gaudis-sagrada-familia-in-barcelona/ La Sagrada Familia is THE MOST important sight to see when visiting Barcelona. Its history, design and the feeling you get upon stepping inside in unparalleled. The church feels like a summation of what Barcelona is all about and understanding it before visiting or while you tour it is so essential to better enjoying this fantastic monument.

The post The Ultimate Insider’s Self-Guided Tour of Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in Barcelona first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> La Sagrada Familia is the beating heart of the city of Barcelona. It can be seen across the skyline almost anywhere you go. The top of the spires peaking out, watching over the city at all times. Designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, construction began in 1882. And you might be surprised to learn that development is still occurring today. Currently, the best projection for its completion is 2026! A significant year that marks the centenary of the death of Gaudí. Despite its incomplete nature, this is THE MOST important sight to see when visiting Barcelona. Its history, design and the feeling you get upon stepping inside are unparalleled. The church feels like a summation of what Barcelona is all about. And understanding it before visiting or while you tour is essential to better enjoying this fantastic monument.

This is a very detailed guide, so I’ve been sure to make a table of contents for you in case you want to jump to a particular church area. This works great if you’re visiting and need more clarification on a certain area. If you’re looking for a shorter summary of what to see, check out my post on the ‘Top 12 Things to See.’ That guide is ideal if you’re pressed for time and want just the highlights tour!

Table Of Contents
  1. Access & Admission
  2. History
  3. Sagrada Familia Design
  4. The Nativity Facade
  5. The Charity Portico
  6. The Tree of Life
  7. The Monumental Columns
  8. Faith Portico
  9. The Spires and Towers
  10. The Cloisters
  11. The Rosary Portal
  12. The Interior Apse
  13. The Arborescent Columns
  14. The Crypt
  15. The Passion Facade
  16. The Glory Facade
  17. The Schoolhouse
  18. The Gaudi Museum

Access & Admission

The Sagrada Familia is pretty easily accessible since it’s located in the centre of town. By metro, you just need to hop on the L5 line towards Sants Station. Upon getting out of the metro, simply follow the signs for the ‘Sagrada Familia.’ If you are arriving by bus, get on the H10 and get off at the València, Lepant stop. If you bought a Hop-On Hop-Off Bus ticket, these also all stop right in front of the church.

When to Go?

When booking your ticket, you need to select a specific entry time. I’d recommend not leaving it too late. You want to give yourself plenty of time to explore before the church closes. I’d recommend booking your ticket an hour or two before sunset. That way, you can see the building in the light of day and enjoy the magnificent lighting effect of the sunset across the structure. The golden light inside the church casts the most magical glow over the entire nave. And it feels like being transported to another earthly plane of existence.

Tickets

As the Sagrada Familia is the most famous landmark in Barcelona, it draws in some shocking numbers daily. It’s no surprise that thousands of people enter their doors daily. Booking your tickets in advance is always best to ensure you can experience this church easily. You can buy your tickets online up to two months in advance. But I’d advise that you only book them about a week or two before your arrival unless you’re visiting during the holiday season.

Which ticket to buy?

There are basically four ticket types for visiting the Sagrada Familia:

While I did enjoy my guided tour, and I’d usually strongly recommend them, I felt like the guide rushed us through the church. Fair enough, there is so much to see, and you only have them for an hour. But even still, it felt incomplete. Even though I could go back to what I felt I’d missed after the guided tour, there was so much to see that I wished I could have understood better. That’s why I created this blog!

This self-guided tour allows you to go at your own pace. You can sit and absorb what you’re seeing. Take a moment to just listen to the sounds around you. And learn about all the facets of the church. Plus, this free tour will save you a bit of money. While the towers are interesting to see and give a nice view over the city, there are betters views to be found for a much lower price. So I’d advise skipping them and instead focusing on looking into the building instead of out of it.

History

During the 19th century Barcelona, along with the rest of Europe, was undergoing a significant change. The church, which had once held such immense power and authority over cities, now lost its cultural influence with the growth of independent governments. Urban lifestyles were changing the way that Catalonians lived, and more and more, the church was becoming less and less a central part of their daily routine.

In 1866 the Spanish clergy created the Association of Devotees of Saint Joseph. They took it upon themselves to help bring back the relevance of faith and spirituality in Catalonia. They raised enough money to start construction on a wondrous temple. A church is so spectacular and eye-catching that it would be the spot where pilgrims from all over the world would travel and which would encourage locals to come back into the fold. The church was dedicated to the Holy Family. The first architect of the church was Francisco de Paula del Villar y Lozano. But soon after construction started, he resigned. They then enlisted Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. And that one decision would be the catalyst for the creation of what is now one of the greatest man-made wonders of the world.

Master Architect Antoni Gaudi

Antoni Gaudí is the mastermind behind this incredible church design. Gaudí’s works can be seen all across Barcelona. And he was one, if not the most, influential artist who helped create the Modernism movement in Catalonia. Gaudí was inspired by neo-Gothic art, organic forms, and Oriental techniques, which can be seen throughout.

Gaudí’s style formed the artistic style of the city, and the critical piece to his portfolio is the Sagrada Familia. Gaudí’s greatest inspirations were nature and religion. In designing the Sagrada Familia, he combines these elements to near perfection. Gaudí’s aim in creating this Basilica was to link heaven and earth together. He was inspired by the nearby Montjuic Mountains’ shape and power over the valley. He wanted the church to feel like a new mountain sprung from the ground.

Gaudi’s Death

Gaudí was run down by a streetcar and died in 1926. Only a small portion of the Basilica had been built when he passed. Although his life was cut short, Gaudí knew he would never see the church finished. He looked back to the great medieval cathedrals which took hundreds of years to create. Some take over 100 years from start to completion. He put every ounce of creativity, innovation and imagination into the temple’s design. When he died, his revolutionary work would inspire the next architect who took over. Many people were surprised that Gaudí would set out to create something which would take so long to build; when asked why, Gaudí would always say, “My client is not in a hurry.” This is where he got the nickname “God’s Architect.”

Sagrada Familia Design

The Sagrada Familia is 4,500 square meters large. It’s the size of an American football field. And when you see it in person, you can truly understand how big it is. The Basilica’s layout is that of a traditional Latin cross design. The Latin cross design features five naves, a crossing, an apse and an exterior cloister-style ambulatory. The exterior has three different facades, each a varied work of art whose imagery tells a story.
Although not yet built, the tallest part of the church will be 172.5 meters tall. The highest point in the city but just shorter than Montjuic Mountain (because no man-made building should exceed what God created). The church can hold 14,000 worshippers! That’s the size of a small city. Gaudí wanted to create a place where everyone in the city could gather. Making it feel like it was always open to whoever wanted to come in. A small church just wouldn’t have had the same effect.

It’s important to highlight that, for our readers to understand Gaudi’s vision and references, we will be talking broadly about stories from the bible. And while not everyone who visits this church will be religious, the context will help you understand the meaning behind the construction. If you aren’t spiritual, just think of these citations as stories (or consider the real people who inspired those characters).

The Nativity Facade

To enter the Sagrada Familia these days, you’ll approach via the Nativity Facade. This was the only part of the church entirely designed by Gaudí. And he almost saw it finished as it was completed in 1935, just after his death. He was there almost daily overseeing the work, and it feels like the part of the church which is the most personal. The Nativity Facade has three entrances. One central and two lateral topped with four hollow bell towers, representing the four stripes of the Catalan flag. The Nativity facade faces the rising sun, as it represents the dawn of the life of Jesus Christ.

The three entrances on the Nativity facade are each dedicated to a theological virtue of the three members of the Holy Family; Hope, Charity and Faith. A portico is a triangular porch hanging over the church’s entrance. One of the most delightful little aspects of these entrances is the little details you might miss, so keep your eyes peeled.

One of these small details to notice when looking at the entire facade are the snowcaps carved into the stone. The snow is meant to look like it is melting off the tops of the hollows of the entrances. Gaudí used snow to remind the people of the festive Christmas season. So many aspects of Gaudí’s plans were drawn from historical architectural references. But others were meant to evoke a response for the common man. Something everyone can understand and evokes something within them.

Gaudi’s Gargoyles

Instead of gargoyles, which are so prevalent in neo-gothic architecture, you’ll find a different kind of creature which caps the various edges of the roofline on the Sagrada Familia. Gaudí chose to use reptiles and amphibians (like snails, frogs, chameleons and lizards.) These creatures crawl on the edges of the building. While gargoyles are mythical creatures, Gaudí chose to pick beasts from our world who are biblically associated with the lower ranks. Gaudi believed they served the same monstrous purpose as the gargoyles in Gothic churches. They are not decorative, but their open mouths are used to drain rainwater from the temple’s roof.

The Hope Portico

The Hope Portico, dedicated to Saint Joseph, is on the far left side of the facade. This portico depicts scenes of virtue in times of adversity. We’ll study this piece from the top of the entrance, continuing downwards, beginning with St. Joseph’s Pinnacle.

St. Joseph’s Pinnacle

St. Joseph’s Pinnacle is almost hard to make out. It’s so high up, and sculptures blend in with the rest of the stonework. The textures given to the exterior are designed to reflect the crags you find on Montserrat, the sacred mountain of Catalonia. Just below the climax of the Hope Portico, you’ll see the figure of Saint Joseph sitting inside a small boat. The boat is an important symbol. Saint Joseph helped navigate the Catholic church as the patriarch of the Holy Family.

On the ship’s helm are three emblematic objects; a dove, an anchor and a lantern. The dove symbolizes the holy spirit, the anchor signifies faith’s constant grounding, and the lamp implies the light the word of Jesus Christ provided to the faithful. It’s important to note that this carving of Saint Joseph is thought to resemble Gaudí himself. The sculptors decided after his untimely death to immortalize Gaudí in the church. Gaudí himself feels like a patriarchal figure to all those architects who would follow in his footsteps.

The Holy Marriage

Below the pinnacle, in the hollow of the top arch, we find a grouping of three people. This is the scene of the marriage of Saint Joseph to the Virgin Mary carried out by a high priest who stands in the centre. They kneel over a basket of roses that symbolize God’s love at work in the world. Blossoming below this sculptural group are luscious flowers reminiscent of those growing on the Nile banks. Egypt was where the holy family experienced so much fear and terror; eventually, they had to flee the country. But they fled not without hope, which is what this entrance is dedicated to remembering. Hanging amongst the flowers are stone-carved rosary beads. 59 beads surround most of the windows on the porticos. Another way in which Gaudí combined the physical act of prayer into his church.

The Tympanum

Above the doorway, in the Hope Portico, we have the tympanum, which contains scenes from Jesus’ childhood. These tender moments between the young Jesus make him much more human rather than godly. On the bottom right, we see the Holy Family with Mary and Joseph and an angel guide fleeing Egypt. In the centre, we see the child Jesus in his father’s arms. A single dove flies off into the distance below them. Amidst this scene of father and son is something which you might miss. A set of carpentry tools carved in stone. Jesus’ adolescence was spent being a carpenter’s apprentice. And it was lovely to see that human side of his life immortalized in stone.

Slaughter of the Innocents

On the right, we have one of the most violent scenes from the bible: the Slaughter of the Innocents. This display shows a Roman soldier tearing a child from their mother’s arms. Under the soldier’s feet are babies’ bodies who have already fallen to the soldier’s sword. Although this is hard to see, if you manage to look closely, you can see that the Roman soldier has six toes on one foot. A small detail but one denoting his monstrosity.

Although this is a sad scene, it’s an important historical moment. When hope was all that these people had to cling to survive. On this side, the edges of the entrance are formed into the shape of a chameleon. The chameleon is an animal that represents change, and change is what hope is based upon. The fact is that even in the darkest times, there will be light. Light is representative of change, and the turning of tides gives even the most lost hope.

The Charity Portico

The central and most crucial portico on the Nativity Facade is the Charity Portico. Jesus’ charitable nature was one of his most notable characteristics, yet this entrance is filled with scenes of the Virgin Mary. This reflects how those who nurture us pass on their core values and attributes. The textural treatment of this portico is slightly different than the others. The exterior is covered in design elements that resemble or call back to the stable in which Jesus was born. Animals, birds and various plants are hidden throughout the mass of ornamentations that swell over the pointed portico.

The Tree of Life

Again, starting from the top down, let’s first focus on the Tree of Life. The culminating part of this portico is capped with a polychrome-coated green cypress tree. Polychrome decorates architectural elements, like pottery or sculpture, in various colours. Gaudí originally intended for the entire Nativity facade to be polychromed. He believed that if every sculpture, face, plant and animal were painted, they would come to life in a much more realistic way. Unfortunately, the cost of this much exceeded the budget! And so, polychrome was used sparingly. But therein making where you see those colours that much more impactful.

Symbolism on the Tree

The cypress tree symbolizes eternity since it’s an evergreen plant and never loses its leaves. Covering the tree are 21 white doves that fly out of their nests and into the sky. On the top of the tree, like a Christmas Star, is the red and white symbol of the holy trinity. The Greek cross formed the base of this symbol. The Greek cross combines the letters’ alpha’ and ‘omega,’ which mean the beginning and the end. Atop the cross is the last white dove, its arms spread wide, resembling the shape of Jesus on the cross.

Two ladders are placed below the tree, representing our mortal desire to reach eternal life. Below the tree, you’ll see a pelican perched, her beak angeled toward two baby birds, ready to be fed. The pelican was once believed to be a symbol of the Eucharist as in ancient times, people thought the pelican opened its chest to feed its young, just like Christ offered up his own body to feed his disciples. Hidden beneath the young pelicans is a brightly coloured egg adorned with red and yellow glass. The egg is thought to represent either the birth of the universe or the symbol of Jesus’ resurrection.

Below the tree is a group of angels burning incense inside old vessels called ‘centers.’ Burning incense in the church is an ancient tradition representing the faithful’s prayers rising to heaven. The pinnacle’s stonework is covered in little bubbles, thought to represent the incense floating up toward the sky. It’s important to note that the angels here were actually sculpted by Gaudí himself.

The Crowning of Mary

Below the tree of life, we come to a small cave. Here we can see a little intimate scene of Jesus placing a copper crown atop the Virgin Mary’s head. Crowning her the Queen of Heaven on Earth. This was her reward for her ceaseless love for God and humanity. Despite what they had done to her beloved son. On the left, we see Saint Joseph there to witness the event. And on the right, we see the Holy Spirit represented as a man. The entire scene is set in front of one of the incredibly colourful stained glass rose windows. At certain times of the day, the glass seems to set the entire scene aglow with mystical light.

The Charity Vault

The vault in the Charity portico contains the scene of the Annunciation. We find the archangel Gabriel told Mary that she is the chosen one. Who will bring the son of God into this world? Surrounding this petite scene are the signs of the zodiac. And depictions of constellations across the sky. Just as they would have been on the night Jesus was born. Bands of rosary beads surround the scene. Hanging around the rosary are medallions carved in stone representing the ‘Miraculous Medals,’ which you find around rosary bracelets.

The Chorus of Angels

Above the Charity doorways, here is a chorus of angels. Each angel is a musician, playing popular instruments in religious settings. Instruments like the lute, the violin and the harp, the more common guitar, the bagpipes and the tambourine can all be found here. Once more, this was a way of the common fold being able to see themselves in the divine. Running up between the two sets of stained glass windows behind the angels is the multi-pointed star of Bethlehem. This was the star that shone in the sky to announce the birth of Jesus.

The Adorations

To the left of the double doorway, we can see sculptures of the Adoration of the Magi. And on the right, we have the Adorations of the Shepherds. Some scenes from the Nativity represent how Jesus’ arrival brought people from such disparate groups together. For me, this scene is especially poignant since I feel Gaudí achieved a similar reaction in the construction of this church. No matter if you are religious, spiritual or neither, this building still draws people from far and wide into its arms. And once they behold it for themselves, there is never a question of its outstanding cultural value.

The Monumental Columns

Three primary columns are located at the base of the church, each representing a member of the holy family. The one in the centre of the two charity doors is the Jesus’ Column, and the other two flanking the charity portico are dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint Joseph. On the very top of the central column is baby Jesus, being placed into a bassinet by his mother. His father looks on, as do an ox and mule, just like the Christmas carol. To the left of this scene is a small text inscription expressing “Gloria in Excelsis Deo,” a phrase spoken by the angels on the night Jesus was born.

Large palm leaves look like they’re supporting the group atop the column. Palm leaves are a symbol of victory in Roman culture, and the date fruits hanging from the leaves symbolize faith. Surrounding the column is a thick ribbon with inscriptions inlaid upon it. The form of ribbon almost looks like one side of a DNA strand. Fittingly, it is thought that the inscriptions on the fabric are Jesus’ genealogy dating back to Abraham. Halfway down the column, the stone is surrounded by dense iron mesh. If you peek through the mesh, you can make out the shape of the snake biting an apple, the symbol of original sin. The iron mesh traps the reptile from fleeing the garden and invading the pious world.

Carvings on the Column

Atop the two remaining columns flanking the sides of the Charity portico are a pair of angels playing long bronze trumpets announcing the birth of Jesus. The models for these sculptures were a group of military musicians who were good friends with Gaudi. The angels stand atop more palm leaves, covered in snow and dates. The centre of the columns is marked with an inscription, each inscribed with the names of those to whom they are dedicated to. At the bottom of the columns are carvings of a tortoise and a turtle, holding the entire weight of the column up. The turtle represents the land, and the tortoise the sea. Both of these animals are unchanging and, as such, are capable of being the foundation upon which this church is built.

At the bottom of the columns is the carving of a tortoise and, on the other, a turtle, holding the entire weight of the column up. The turtle represents the land, and the tortoise the sea. Both of these animals are unchanging and, as such, are capable of being the foundation upon which this church is built.

Faith Portico

The last of the tree porticos is on the far right-hand side, called the Faith Portico. This portico is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, yet most of the scenes here actually feature her son when he was a young boy and his life during adolescence.

While centred around Jesus, these scenes show Mary’s faith in God. Imagine being a mother and seeing your son grow up so innocent and kind, all the while knowing he will die for the sins of humanity, and you’ll be the one to bury him. It takes a strong woman to keep faith in this knowledge, and yet she persevered and, not only that, made sure to be the best mother she could be against all the odds. I think everyone can take something from this story into their own lives at times when they feel they perhaps have lost faith in themselves or the direction their lives are going.

Blessed Virgin’s Pinnacle

At the very top of the portico is the Blessed Virgin’s Pinnacle. The head of the pinnacle is capped with ears of wheat springing forth. These symbolize the bread Jesus shares with his disciples in the Last Supper. Below, in a small hollow cave, is a carving of a hand with an open eye in the centre. This is the symbol of divine providence, which represents God, who can see all and even perhaps influence the destiny of humankind. Vines and grapes intertwine all over this pinnacle, another symbolic element of the Last Supper.

In the centre of these vines is the figure of the Virgin Mary, her hands crossed over her chest and head leaning back, utter vulnerability and trust emitting through her language. Mary stands upon a three-pointed lamp, representing the light of the holy trinity. Below her figure, we can see Saint Joseph’s anagram, another little detail tieing these two people together consistently through the design, even when they are not physically together.

Jesus in Simon’s Arms

In the hollow at the top of the portico is Jesus in Simon’s arms in the temple of Jerusalem. Many parents would bring their children to the temple to be blessed. A bowl is at the bottom of the scene, and within it are two birds. But these are not doves as we’ve seen before, but are pigeons. Every parent needed to bring a sacrifice to the temple for their child to be blessed. Most people would bring a lamb to display wealth, but as Mary and Joseph were poor, they could only afford to bring two meagre pigeons.

Central Scene on the Faith Portico

Under the vault on the Faith portico is a beautiful rose window made up of multicoloured glass. Looking up from underneath the vault is the figure of Jesus seated in a chair, his hands raised towards the sky. On his left side is Saint John the Baptist. On the right is Saint Zachariah. These two scholars were some of Jesus’ best teachers and would shape how he would preach. Despite being his elders, they are seen here looking at Jesus with admiration and wonder. Below the scholars, right above the doorway, is the symbol of the heart of Jesus, surrounded by thorns and covered in bees who feast on the blood. A morbid foreshadowing of things to come.

On the left-hand side of the doorway, we can see the scene of the visitation of the Virgin Mary. Here we have Mary, pregnant with baby Jesus, visiting her cousin who at the same time was pregnant with the would-be Saint John the Baptist. In the scene on the right, we find Jesus as a young carpenter at his work table. In front of him are the figures of Mary and Joseph. Their faces are that of surprise, anguish and denial as they learn of their son’s fate for the first time. But Jesus remains unphased, working quietly on his carpentry, his posture slightly slumped, mirroring a more human figure who knows not yet of his divine destiny.

The Spires and Towers

Gaudi desired to make the Sagrada Familiar as the tallest building in Barcelona. He was inspired by stories of architects in medieval times who built their churches as the central figure in the city. These churches needed to be tall as they were often used as meeting points, a guiding light to those travelling into town. Their bell towers signal the beginning of the workday or even warn people of fires, earthquakes or other devastating events. Gaudi wanted to implement this same idea, but just one tower wouldn’t suffice. He decided to far and away exceed anything created for basilicas before.

Gaudi’s design called for eighteen spires, reaching up toward the heavens. The hollow and hole-filled design of the spires makes them look like a sort of beehive or anthill, as the stone’s colour so closely resembles the earth. But the hollow design was actually a form of lanterning, an architectural element that illuminates the church while also giving it enormous height and grandeur.

The Spires

The spires are representative, in ascending order of elevation, of the Twelve Apostles, the Virgin Mary, the four Evangelists and, tallest of all, Jesus Christ. The Evangelists’ spires were designed to be topped by sculptures of their corresponding symbols. A bull for Saint Luke, symbolizing sacrifice, service and strength. An angel stands for Saint Matthew, who represents Jesus’ human Incarnation, who, upon his death, became divine. An eagle sets off to soar in the representation of Saint John, as the eagle symbolizes a figure of the sky and the fact that Christians should look to their eternal fate instead of their mortal one. And finally, we have Saint Mark represented by a lion. Saint Mark’s beautiful gospels were thought to be the “voice of the one who cries in the wilderness,” like the roar of a lion.

Atop each of the spires along the perimeter of the church, over top of the cloisters, are a set of pinnacles. These are in various shapes, abstractions of elements of the bishop’s attire, such as the mitre, the ring, the cross and the staff. They are all decorated in rich tones of Murano glass which is much stronger than ceramics, so they can withstand the elements up high.

Jesus and Mary Towers

The Virgin Mary tower will be the widest right over the high altar. Her tower is currently finished, but its shape has already been a form of a cathedral. Her tower, once completed, will be crowned by the ‘morning star.’ This star is the guiding light that travellers use to find their way even in darkness, and the star is still visible even when the sun has risen at dawn.

The interior of her tower is made up of a large hyperboloid skylight which brings natural light into the presbytery. The hyperboloid will be covered in white tiles, the colour of purity, looking like a divine cyclone sucking in the light from above. The largest and tallest of the towers, the Jesus Christ Tower, has yet to be built, but once completed will be the most impressive of them all, reaching a height of 172.5 meters, capped with a Gaudí-style four-armed cross. The tower’s interior will act as a giant lantern since Gaudi wanted this part of the church to reflect the phrase Jesus spoke, “I am the light of the world.”

The Cimborio

At the top of the spires, you’ll find elaborately coloured and designed cimborio. A cimborio is a dome or a cupola from traditional Spanish architecture. Gaudi’s cimborio is more sculptural, with images of plants decorating the surface, specifically those plants connected to the Christian faith. We see ears of corn, wheat, cedar and lavender all swirling around. Gaudi also chose plants native to the Mediterranean or that once grew on the site where the church was built. Gaudi used his technique of trencadis cladding to ensure the tops were as colourful as possible so you could see them across the sky from all over town.

The Cloisters

As you enter the Nativity facade, you pass through those large doors and enter the cloisters surrounding the entire church. A traditional cloister was first used in monasteries and was meant “enclosure.” It was a covered walkway for the monks to use as a space of private contemplation. When cloisters were incorporated into cathedrals, they would run along one side of the church.

Gaudi used his cloisters in a revolutionary way; instead of just placing them on one side of the church, he wrapped them around the entirety of the Basilica. This was his solution to create separation or barrier between the church’s interior and the loud and obnoxious outside world. This resulted in a quieter interior and an almost zen-like atmosphere. A conventional monastery cloister would surround a garden. Because the interior here would be the church’s apse, Gaudi made sure that his interior still felt like a garden, like the of Eden. A mythical forest in the centre of town.

Cloisters and Light

Gaudi wanted to find a way to bring natural light into the interior of the church even though there were no windows that faced directly outside the apse. He did this through his ingenious redesign of the cloister windows. Gaudi went through two different variations in his light experiments. Both of which are still present to this day. The first was designed in 1890 and was based on the three ogival modules inspired by traditional Gothic architecture.

The secondary design done in 1919 was a more modern interpretation of Gaudi’s which looked less like Gothic art and was more inspired by nature. These circular windows, stacked in a triangular pyramid, looked like a honeycomb and fit better with the rest of the naturalist design across the temple. The cloisters also served another purpose. By having this area around the entirety of the church, Gaudi made it so that these galleries could be an area where people could move throughout the church quickly without interrupting the worship that was taking place inside.

The Bronze floral Doors

To enter the church, we must head back to the Charity portico and walk through the archway. The doors you pass on your way are made from polychrome bronze and designed by various plant species and covers and are ed in highly realistic insects. The paintwork on these doors is breathtaking and an introduction to the colours you’ll be wowed with inside.

The Rosary Portal

You’ll first pass through the Rosary Portal to enter the church’s interior. This incredible doorway is called the door of Our Lady of the Rosary. In the tympanum above the doorway is the sculpture of the Virgin Mary holding a crowed baby Jesus. Mary also wears a crown, as she is the Queen of Heaven on Earth, but she is also symbolically crowned with an archway of roses on the portal above her. Since the rose is the symbol of purity is almost always hidden somewhere in depictions of the Virgin Mary.

Above this doorway is a cupola lantern which perfectly lets in a ray of light that highlights Mary’s face. This effect is almost too beautiful, and if you didn’t know the cupola was there, it takes on looks heavenly side of the doorways are various sculptures of characters from the old testament.

On the bottom of the arches around the door are scenes dedicated to the theme of temptation. We see the temptation of woman, the death of Judas and the temptation of man. The temptation of man is the most surprising as it is symbolized by a fish-like devil offering a bomb to man. While you might not always associate the devil with bombs, this scene was of particular significance to the people of Barcelona. Bombs were heavily used during the Spanish civil war, and this particular artist was inspired to make this alteration after the bombing of Barcelona’s Liceo Theatre in 1893.

The Interior Apse

The floorplan of the Sagrada Familia is designed to replicate the traditional Latin cross, but Gaudi’s floorplan featured five naves, a large central one and four lateral naves. He also took it upon himself to widen the naves, therein creating an unparalleled vastness of space, which feels impossible to have in such a lavish interior. But with all this space, there had to be structure. Some way to keep the building from falling down without sacrificing that ethereal atmosphere.

The Arborescent Columns

The interior of the church was meant to resemble a spiritual forest. Gaudi wanted it to feel like a retreat into nature. Gothic churches were revolutionary in creating openness and space; they wanted the interior to feel light and the high ceilings as if they were reaching up toward the heavens. Gaudi once more wanted to take this to the next level. He wanted to incorporate huge stained glass windows on either side, which meant they could not be load-bearing, so that load had to be carried elsewhere.

Gaudi researched for years to develop this new concept he called the ‘Arborescent Columns.’ Inspired by the strength and beauty of large trees, the columns tilt slightly about their height so they can withstand the roof load. They also split off in two directions, like the branches of a tree and also like a flying buttress to better support the vaults. At any time, you expect to see birds flying from branch to branch, making a nest for themselves. And what better place to do it?!

36 Tree Columns

There are 36 columns in total with different heights and widths. The variation of these sizes makes them seem more unique and less man-made. Four materials were used to create the columns; porphyry, basalt, granite and Montjuic stone. The Porphyry columns support the vaults over the crossing and are the widest in diameter. They are the red-coloured columns which contain the Evangelists’ lights. The basalt columns have ten sides and are one of the most durable materials. The granite columns are blueish-grey in colour and are only eight-sided. The final columns are made from Montjuic stone and are the thinnest.

The Vaults

Gaudi combined classical Gothic architecture and Catalan art to create these star-like vaults on the roof, which light could easily pass through. The stars are formed by combining concave and convex hyperboloid shapes, which are systems used to disperse light and spread out the roof load of the stars also closely resemble the form of palm leaves, a powerful symbol in Christianity. Each vault centre is filled with a light diffuser decorated with colourful stained glass in various Christian symbols.

Natural Light

Light is one of the strongest symbols of faith in Christianity, so it was crucial to Gaudi to bring as much natural light as possible, the light of God, into the Basilica. Gaudi developed a new way of creating stained glass, comprised of three panes resulting in a mixture of tones and colours to cast a magical glow into the nave. The leading artist who created these windows was Vila-Grau. Vila-Grau used curved shapes to create abstract forms and ensured that the warm and cool tones were kept separate, resulting in this consistent light flow.

The Evangelist Capitals

Four Porphyry columns are capped with the Evangelists’ symbols, two on each side of the transept. The capitals are decorated with tetramorphs, the four angelic beings from Babylonian symbolism, which describe the vision of the Hebrew Prophet Ezekiel of the Evangelists. “As for the likeness of their faces, they four had the face of a man, and the face of a lion, on the right side: and they four had the face of an ox on the left side; they four also had the face of an eagle.” These capitals are lit from within to ensure they are always illuminated even when there isn’t any natural light.

The High Altar

When you enter the church, before looking up (although I know that’s really hard), take a look at the flooring. The shimmery golden tiles are accented with two thick red lines. One of the lines symbolizes the ‘Path of Humanity,’ which runs from the Glory facade to the apse, and the ‘Path of Jesus Christ,’ which runs from the Nativity to the Passion facade. Where the two lines meet is where we find the high altar. The meeting of the divine and the human in one place here inside the church. The high altar has a ceiling two meters taller than the rest of the nave to give it that little extra touch of gravitas.

Over the high altar, we find the incredible sculptural masterpiece called a baldachin. A baldachin is a large canopy in a heptagon shape with seven edges, traditionally placed over an altar. These sever corners represent the seven gifts of the Holy Spirit; wisdom, understanding, counsel, fortitude, knowledge, piety and fear of the Lord. Fifty little hanging lights illuminate the rim of the canopy. Around the rim springs grape vines and wheat, the symbols of the Eucharist. A ribbon around the baldachin writes out the Prayer of Glory in back-lit red and Gaudí-style lettering.

Saint Joseph Transept

Located on the Nativity side of the church is the Saint Joseph Transept, presided over by a large sculpture of Joseph himself. Joseph stands there prominently with a sceptre of lilies in his hand. Lilies represent his holiness and his celibate marriage to the Blessed Virgin. The walkway above the transept is made of dozens of Roman columns and is an easy way for the clergy to get around the church without interrupting the service. The stained glass windows featured on this wall are made of cool tones, and the morning light pours through this portion of the church.

One interesting aspect of studying stained glass is that the colours become denser and denser as we descend from the top down, letting in less and less light. This is so that the light is the brightest at the top, where you’ll find the divine, and lower to the ground, where we have humanity and slightly less light, creating a perfect space for meditation and reflection.

On the opposite side, facing the Passion Facade, is the Virgin Mary Transept. In the centre is the figure of the Virgin Mary under a simplistic, geometric star-shaped vault. Behind her is a beautiful example of abstract stained glass made by Joan Vila-Grau entitled ‘The Resurrection.’ This side faces the setting sun and is coloured with entirely warm tones, warm tones which make the heart feel full and content, expressing hope upon Jesus’ Resurrection.

The Apsidal Chapels

The apse has seven chapels dedicated to the seven gospels of Saint Joseph. These chapels are lit from above and by impressive stained glass windows. In between these panels are the adorable carving of angel heads peeking out from the walls.

The Great Doorway

This entrance, called the Great Doorway, will eventually be the main entrance into the church once the Glory facade is finished construction. The two solid bronze doors will open out into the facade, weighing over two thousand kilos! The designer of these doors is the same one who made the Passion Facade, Josep Maria Subirachs. The doorways are inscribed with the words “Give us this day our daily bread” in fifty different languages. Above the door is the abstracted sculpture of Saint Geroge, the patron saint of Catalonia.

The Choir Galleries

Above the nave is a separate space that houses the choir during church services. This area can hold over 1000 singers since Gaudi wanted their voices to fill this enormous temple. Gaudi thought the importance of acoustics in the building to be of the utmost importance as he loved music so much. It was one of the few ways he could unwind and relax. The hyperbolic vaulting he used throughout the church was made to reverberate the sound throughout the church in a harmonious way and provide light.

The Organ

The large pipe organ looks almost holographic in certain lights and has over 1,492 pipes. And what a sound it makes when played. Gaudi wanted this organ and the music of God it created to fill the nave like the ocean. Washing across the worshippers and visitors alike.

Winding Staircase

Gaudi didn’t ever want to break up the natural movement of the Basilica. No straight set of stairs would be acceptable. So Gaudi created these sets of winding staircases which the clergy could use to access the upper levels. The staircases are almost completely open, with some circular cutouts, similar to those in the cloisters, to ensure they are perfectly lit without artificial light.

The Crypt

As you walk along the back of the nave, behind the altar, be sure to look down and see if you can peek into the small peepholes which open up into the crypt. Head down to see the interior of this hidden part of the church. The crypt, located under the nave and high altar, holds 12 chapels. The roof of the crypt is supported by 22 ribbed cross vaults, each decorated with shimmering keystones. Some of the keystones are adorned with scenes from the bible. The central keystone with the gold-leafed carving of Mary’s Annunciation is the most impressive. The bright gold brings the smallest details to life, making this image shine like a star underground.

Chapel of Our Lady of Mount Carmel

You’ll find the Chapel of Our Lady of Mount Carmel inside the crypt. This chapel is of particular significance since it is where you’ll find Gaudi’s final resting place. Located on the far left-hand side of the front wall, his tomb is presided over by the Lady of Mount Carmel. Gaudi is laid to rest under a simple, jet-black tombstone.

Gaudi made it his mission to bring natural light into the otherwise darkened crypts. And he did so through those small holes in the vaults which bring light in from the nave. He also made sure to include a lot of vibrant stained glass. This created a feeling of lightness and brightness despite being underground. It is unlike any other crypt I’ve visited around the world. The stained glass within the crypt is decorated with images of angels, another interesting juxtaposition for a crypt since angels are generally found in the sky, whereas these ones are found buried under the foundation.

The Passion Facade

The final portion of the tour of the church is the Passion Facade. This facade is located on the side of the building where the sun sets. The darkness reflects the ultimate sacrifice and death Jesus would incur. Compared with the ornate, natural forms of the Nativity Facade, the Passion Facade is gloomy, stark and restrained. Gaudi made sketches for this part of the church when he fell ill with a terrible sickness and almost passed away. This illness was the closest to death Gaudi would ever come since his eventual death would sneak up on him. During this sickness, he was consumed with fear. And he poured all these emotions into the design of this part of the temple.

While Gaudi died long before this part of the church began construction, architect Josep Maria Subirachs took up his mantle and made it his mission to create precisely what Gaudi had envisioned. Subirach’s figures are inspired by expressionism, in contrast to the realistic figures on the Nativity portal. There are over 100 figures depicted, grouped into 13 different scenes. They rise upwards in an S-shape, starting, in chronological order, with the last Supper and ending in the crucifixion.

Capping the facade is the pyramid-shaped pediment. This pediment is formed with eighteen bone-shaped pillars, which symbolize those who died. The columns of the Passion Facade reach out towards the street. Unlike a regular column which just goes straight up, they are placed at an angle. Seemingly drawing the viewer in from the outside.

Last Supper

In the bottom left corner, we see Subirachs’ interpretation of Jesus in the Garden of Gethsemane during the Last Supper. All the faces we see here are gaunt and abstract. They seem less human, and each one appears to have an expression of sadness on their face. Jesus turns to his disciples to explain what will happen as Judas is off to the side, accepting the blood money for betraying his friend.

The Kiss of Judas

We then move to the scene where Juda kisses Jesus, indicating he is the man whom the Roman soldiers must arrest. In the bottom right corner of this scene, you’ll see the snarling face of a snake. The snake represents the devil as this reptile is regarded as one of the lowest terrestrial animals, closest to the devil’s lair. Besides the two men is a set of numbers on a grid called the ‘magic square.’ The magic square features a collection of numbers which, when added either along one row, one column or diagonally across, always add up the same number. In this case, the number is 33. 33 is the age at which it is thought that Jesus Christ died; it also contains the number 3 twice, which is the symbol of the holy trinity.

The Flagellation Column

On the main level, in the centre, we have the Flagellation Column. Bringing this scene almost at eye level with the visitors is a critical choice and, once more, brings humanity back to this otherwise godlike man. Everywhere else where Jesus is depicted, he is within a group, but here he is totally alone. An interesting detail is the three steps which lead up to the column, symbolizing the three days between Jesus’ crucifixion and the resurrection. Subirach used travertine marble to carve the column, the same stone used in all the buildings in ancient Rome.

The Bronze Doors

Three broad sets of bronze doors are set behind and on either side of the Flagellation Column. On the right, we have the Gethsemane door; in the centre is the Gospel door and on the left is the Coronation of Thorns. The main entrance used today into the church is through the Gospel door. This door contains thousands of raised letters with passages from various texts relating to the last days of Jesus’ life.

The Gethsemane door looks almost like a sketchbook. It combines text and images relating to the prayers Jesus’ made in the Garden of Gethsemane, pleading for God to change his mind and save his mortal life. The Coronation of Thorn’s door has two main scenes. One of the scenes depicts the soldiers presenting Jesus to Herod and Pontius Pilate and being crowned with thorns. The top scene is of the humiliation of the soldiers who tortured Jesus on the way to the cross.

The Denial of Peter & Ecce Homo and the Trial of Jesus

This sculpture depicts the three times Peter denied he knew Jesus, represented by three women. He wears a large sheet, a symbol of cowardice. In the next scene, we see Pilate presenting Jesus to the people. In the final scene, we see Pilate washing his hands as he announces to the crowd, “I am innocent of this man’s blood; see you to it.”

The Three Mary’s and Simon Cyrene

In the next vignette, we see the three Marys; The Virgin Mary, Mary Magdelene and Mary of Cleophas. On the ground is the fallen form of Jesus, and the man carrying the cross is actually Simon Cyrene, who helped Jesus take the cross to the sight of the crucifixion. It is thought that this man showed sympathy for Jesus as he walked, so the soldiers forced Cyrene to carry the cross, another example of the soldier’s cruelty. Now, Simon Cyrene is considered the patron saint of passersby.

Veronica and the Evangelist

Over the Gospel door, we find the scene where Jesus falls again. A woman named Veronica bends down to brush the blood off his face with a cloth, and when she removes it, the face of the Messiah is imprinted on it. The carving of Jesus’ face on the cloth is masterfully done, and no matter where the viewers go, Jesus’ eyes seem to follow. To the left of the group, you’ll see the legionnaires whose armour was made in the shape of Gaudi’s famous chimneys from Casa Milá, a little reference to Gaudi’s history.

Saint Longinus

The figure to the right of Veronica is a Roman soldier on horseback. This is Saint Longinus, who was a Roman general that stuck a spear into Jesus. Legend has it that Longinus was half blind, but when he speared Jesus, a drop of blood spurted into his eyes, and they were healed. Upon this miraculous healing, Longinus repented of his sins and converted to Christianity.

Soldiers Player Dice

We have a small group of Roman soldiers to the left of the crucifixion scene. They can be seen playing a dice game. The victor of this game would win Jesus Christ’s clothing and possessions. A heartless moment but another depiction of the cruelty of man.

The Crucifixion

The top of the facade is dominated by the form of Jesus Christ crucified on the cross. He is tied to a cross composed of two iron beams. The iron beam meets to form the shape of an “I.” This is thought to recall “INRI,” which in Latin stands for ‘Iesus Nazarenus Rex Iudaeorum’ meaning ‘Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews, something which they nailed over Jesus on the cross as he lay dying. At his feet is the sobbing form of Mary Magdalene, while the Virgin Mary stands to the side, her face in her hands, consoled by St. John. At the base of the cross, we can make out a skull symbolizing Jesus’ final death. In the upper right corner, we can make out a full moon, as it is said that the night he died, there was a full moon.

The Burial

To the right of the Crucifixion scene, we have the burial of Christ. In this sculpture, we see Joseph of Arimathea and Nicodemus preparing and wrapping Jesus’ body to make it ready for the tomb. The image of Nicodemus is actually a self-portrait of the sculptor Subirachs. In the background is the Virgin Mary with an egg on her head, symbolizing the resurrection.

The Passion Vaults

Under the vaults of the Passion’s portico, when you look up, you’ll see a torn cloth hanging in front of a brightly coloured mosaic. The enormous torn fabric acts almost as a type of baldachin hanging beneath the cross. In the Temple of Jerusalem, there was always a large cloth that separated the holier areas of the temple from the ordinary people. At the very moment of Jesus’ death, it was said that this cloth split in two, bringing together common people and God as one. The glasswork is Venetian and contains texts and imagery relating to the resurrection. Unlike the rest of the facade, which is bleak and monotonous, this hidden bright spot is representative of the hope that Jesus’ resurrection gave the people, always present but hiding in the darkness.

The Glory Facade

The Glory facade is the one part of the church which has not begun construction. This side faces the midday sun when the sun is the brightest and therefore exemplifies the idea of Glory and Hope. The design of the Glory facade is made up of a series of large lanterns and a grouping of fluffy white clouds. The three types of clouds represent the Holy Trinity: the Father, Son and Holy Spirit, each inscribed with words of prayer. By entering this doorway, worshippers will have a sense of movement through the earthly plain into the divine heavens.

The Schoolhouse

Outside the Passion, the facade is a small building, a recreation of the 1909 original, which once served as the children’s schoolhouse. During the Basilica’s construction, there were so many workers that they needed a dedicated school to cater to their children. Gaudi made it his mission to educate these kids and create a beautiful place for them to do it. You can enter the old schoolhouse, study the Catalan vaulting technique he employed here, and study the classroom’s various details. You can even see some of the things the children studied during their time here.

The Gaudi Museum

Located in the basement of the cathedral is the Antoni Gaudi Workshop and Museum. Although many of the original documents and plans were destroyed when a bomb went off during the Civil War, this newly created space is where the city has taken it upon itself to conserve, restore and put on display pieces of the history of the construction of this church. You can find drawings, period photographs, ceremonial furniture and several scale model copies of the originals. There is also a model of the original workshop where Gaudi would spend all this time.

If you’ve made it all the way through, I commend you and know that I appreciate the time you took to understand the immense amount of history, art and cultural values instilled in this incredible temple. I genuinely wish I could spend every day here, and I hope your time visiting this space is just as magical as mine was.

Have you been here before? What was your favourite thing to see? If you’re on your way, let me know what you’re looking forward to the most.

Happy Travel Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Insider’s Self-Guided Tour of Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in Barcelona first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-insiders-self-guided-tour-of-gaudis-sagrada-familia-in-barcelona/feed/ 2 849 The Ultimate Walking Tour of Prague’s Peaceful Petrin Hill https://thecreativeadventurer.com/updated-guide-to-our-secret-walking-tour-of-petrin-hill-in-prague/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=updated-guide-to-our-secret-walking-tour-of-petrin-hill-in-prague https://thecreativeadventurer.com/updated-guide-to-our-secret-walking-tour-of-petrin-hill-in-prague/#respond Tue, 27 Nov 2018 18:12:43 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//updated-guide-to-our-secret-walking-tour-of-petrin-hill-in-prague/ High atop the rooftops of Prague, there is a secret pathway with one of the best views you can find across the entire city. This hidden gem is called ‘Petrin Hill’. Locals like to call it Peaceful Petrin and for good reason. From here you can look out not only across Prague itself but far off to the countryside as well. Compared to the packed streets of Old Town Prague, this park high above is so quiet, and sometimes you’ll be the only one walking its paths.

The post The Ultimate Walking Tour of Prague’s Peaceful Petrin Hill first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> High atop the rooftops of Prague, there is a secret pathway with one of the best views you can find across the entire city. This hidden gem is called ‘Petrin Hill’. Locals like to call it Peaceful Petrin and for a good reason. From here you can look out not only across Prague itself but far off to the countryside as well. Compared to the packed streets of Old Town Prague, this park high above is so quiet, and sometimes you’ll be the only one walking its paths.

Table Of Contents
  1. How to Get there
  2. History of Petrin Hill
  3. Map of Petrin Hill Walking Tour
  4. Petrin Hill Funicular
  5. Petřín Rose Garden
  6. The Štefánik Observatory
  7. Magic Cavern Prague
  8. Petrin Tower
  9. Snacks on the Hill
  10. Hall of Mirrors
  11. Cathedral of St. Lawrence
  12. St. Michael Church
  13. Seminary Garden
  14. Klášterní Pivovar Strahov
  15. Strahov Monastery Library

How to Get there

To get to Petrin Hill you have two options. You can walk or take the funicular. The walk takes about 30 minutes; it’s a bit steep but your path through the woods as you climb is a lovely experience well worth the effort. But if the weather is a bit chilly or rainy, the funicular is a great option and a really neat way to see some of the history of this area.

History of Petrin Hill

Petrin Hill rises over 130m above the Vltava River. In ancient times, the hill was covered in rocks, which were later excavated and used to build the city. With the absence of these stones, the people of Prague built atop the hill. In 1360 the Hunger Wall was put up as a medieval defensive system to protect the town from invaders. During the 1891 Jubilee Exhibition, the Petrin Tower was built, a miniature version of the Eiffel Tower for the people of Prague who had come to love the one in Paris.

Map of Petrin Hill Walking Tour

Petrin Hill Funicular

The Funicular railway is free if you’ve purchased a public transport ticket that day. Take the tram to stop “Ujezd” (trams No 12, 22, 23) to arrive at the Petrin Hill Funicular station. Keep your transfer from the tram, and you’ll be able to get onto the funicular for free! If you walked to the Petrin Funicular station or took a cab, you can still buy tickets inside the station. Remember that you need to go inside, buy your ticket, and then come back out to wait in the long line to get onto the funicular.

Many people wait in the long line expecting to buy tickets at the front of the queue and are unfortunately told to go back, purchase the ticket and wait in line once more. Tickets cost the same as the regular public transport, 24 CZK or $1 USD. The funicular dates back to 1851 and as such is quite slow so even with a short line, expect to wait around 10-20 mins to get to the front of the queue. When we visited we decided to take the funicular up to the top but then walk all the way down, it is the best of both worlds.

Petřín Rose Garden

After you get off the tram, take a walk through Petřín Rose Garden. The Rose Garden covers over six hectares, and it is said there are over twelve thousand roses in bloom in the summer months! Dotted along the garden are dozens of benches should you want to rest your feet and enjoy the sweet smells of the flowers.

The Štefánik Observatory

The Štefánik Observatory is located inside an assuming neo-baroque building and if it weren’t for the giant domed telescopes, you’d never imagine what could be inside. The observatory was built in 1928 but even to this day, the telescopes draws people in to take a look up into the skies. Entry is only 90 CZK ($4 USD) and especially if you have kids or are interested in space, you’ll really find the price to be more than worth it!

There is rarely a line and you can take a look at the sun, various usually hard to spot planets as well as stars, nebulas, star clusters or galaxies. The staff speak English as well as Czech and are happy to help answer all your questions with a cheery attitude for the subject they love.

Magic Cavern Prague

If you’re looking for a trippy and whimsical place to visit, you should check out Prague’s Magical Cavern. This building houses a collection of paintings by artist Reon. Inside this cavern-like museum are over 80 of his paintings depicting his imaginary realm called Argondia. in addition to the paintings, there are sculptures throughout and plaster to create an otherworldly dreamscape. It’s a bit cheesy but super fun! Admission is only 100 CZK for adults and 50 CZK for kids. It is cash only, so keep that in mind. Open daily from 2 pm to 7 pm.

Petrin Tower

The Petrin Tower may only 60m tall, but after climbing the 299 steps it takes to reach the top, you have a fantastic view of the city of Prague below. Tickets are 150 CZK ($6.5 USD), but the lineups for the stairs can get very long since the number of people allowed to go up is pretty minimal. The best way to get in without a wait is to visit early or late in the day and not on the weekend. Once you’re at the top of the tower it’s interesting to know that although not as tall as the real Eiffel Tower, you are actually at the same altitude as the real Eiffel Tower.

Snacks on the Hill

Since it was a chilly morning, we couldn’t resist getting a warm treat to heat up our hands. We had seen this circular treated being cooked up all over the city and couldn’t resist trying one for ourselves. Little did we know that this one taste would get us hooked for the rest of the trip. These pastries are called ‘Trdelník’. A Trdelník is a sweet pastry made from rolled dough that is wrapped around a stick, then grilled and topped with sugar or nuts. There is a small coating of sugar and eggs that is applied when it is grilled which results in caramelization of the sugar.

The ones we had on the hill were actually very delicious. A word of note, they are not a traditional Czech treat as many believe it is. The trdelník was first created in the Slovak town of Skalica. The name trdelník comes from “trdlo” (a wooden tool used for pounding materials in a hollowed-out log). They have caught on like wildfire in Prague and sold to tourists falsely as “local treats.” Many of these sellers in Old Town square are overpriced and usually not very tasty. But this one surprised me!

Hall of Mirrors

Beside the Petrin Tower is a small palace-like building, called the Hall of Mirrors. Inside the Mirror Maze, you’ll find just that. A maze full fo mirrors. You’ll bump into a few walls, but it’s an antiquated attraction worth poking your head inside. In the Victorian era, people were obsessed with these types of game rooms. It all was all they had before the days of Instagram and Tiktok.

In addition to the maze, you’ll also find the “Hall of laughter” where you can stand and take your photo in front of a mirror which warps the look of your body into all sorts of funny shapes. Kids get a kid out of this one. Oddly enough, the Maze finished with a lifesize depiction of the Thirty Years War, set on the Charles Bridge in 1648. I can’t tell you why this element was added, but I suppose it leaves the viewer with a piece of history to go alongside all the frivolity.

Cathedral of St. Lawrence

Opposite the Mirror Maze is the amber painted, St Lawrence Cathedral.  The baroque facade and bright colouring make it stand out against the greens and browns of the rest of the park. There are stories that once this was the site of high importance for ancient pagan Slavs which was the destroyed to make room for the new religion. The interior is rather modern but the exterior is still work a long look.

St. Michael Church

Beside St. Lawrence Cathedral is St. Michael Church. A wooden church from the second half of the 17th century. Although I could not go inside, I sat on the cold stone steps and marvelled at this simple church. There wasn’t anything elegant about it or regal, but there was something immensely charming about its quaint appearance.

Seminary Garden

Head down towards Strahov Monastery and walk through the Seminary Garden. The Carmelite monastery gardens once belonged to the archbishop of the seminary in the 18th century, hence its name. There are over 2000 fruit trees and 800 almond trees which spread out across the gardens.  As we walked through the park and out to the gardens we would repeatedly get lost and then found again, over and over as the streets twisted and turned. The weather was crisp and it was a weekday so there was barely anyone out for a walk. We seemed to be the only ones from time to time. It was so romantic, walking hand in hand through these beautiful fruit trees.

When we finally got out to the clearing, we could see far across the gardens and out across the city. It was breathtaking, it seemed so clear like we could see forever. Far in the distance, we could see the dark towers of Prague Cathedral surrounded by the pastel coloured houses of Mala Strana.

Klášterní Pivovar Strahov

Klášterní Pivovar Strahov or The Strahov Brewery was established in the 1600’s, and the monks would work and produce beer to create income their order. Even today you can visit the brewery and drink a glass sitting in their scenic beer garden. We made sure to make a pit stop here before heading to the library. Like all beer in Prague, it is cheap and delicious! And the view is unbeatable, look out over the valley and across to Prague Castle.

Strahov Monastery Library

The Strahov Monastery was first established in 1140. Throughout the years it was destroyed and rebuilt, time after time, war after war. Many of their precious books were stolen, and despite this, every time they rebuilt it, they sought to rebuild their libraries, even grander. Creating a space of importance and preservation for the tomes within. Today, the Monastery and the library stand as a jewel of the Baroque era. Even from afar their bright red-tiled roofs and copper spires, aged to a brilliant teal colour, contrast the grey skies.

Strahov Library

Don’t leave Petrin Hill without a visit to the Strahov Library. The library has three parts which visitors can explore. The Grand Philosophical Hall, The Baroque Theological Hall and the Cabinets of Curiosities. The Grand Philosophical Hall is the jewel of the monastery. Looking from floor to ceiling at this ornately designed library will literally take your breath away. It contains over 42,000 ancient philosophical texts, sprawling along the room like a wave of knowledge.

Petrin Hill is definitely one of the calmer and quieter parts of Prague, so if you’re in town during a high tourist season, an escape out to Petrin Hill will be a welcome rest from all the busy crowds.

The post The Ultimate Walking Tour of Prague’s Peaceful Petrin Hill first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/updated-guide-to-our-secret-walking-tour-of-petrin-hill-in-prague/feed/ 0 626 The Ultimate Guide to the Most Instagrammable Places in Washington DC https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-most-instagrammable-places-in-washington-dc/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-most-instagrammable-places-in-washington-dc https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-most-instagrammable-places-in-washington-dc/#comments Tue, 20 Nov 2018 21:27:28 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//the-most-instagrammable-places-in-washington-dc/ When I first visited Washington D.C. I thought it would be nothing more than plain white political powerhouses and generic American architecture. Boy was I wrong! I was shocked to see what a beautiful city this was. The central sightseeing portion of this city is extremely walkable so its easy to just wander around from place to place taking snapshots of the bright, bold and brilliant art and architecture which makes Washington such an incredible place to visit.

The post The Ultimate Guide to the Most Instagrammable Places in Washington DC first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> When I first visited Washington D.C. I thought it would be nothing more than plain white political powerhouses and generic American architecture. Boy was I wrong! I was shocked to see what a beautiful city this was. The central sightseeing portion of this city is extremely walkable. It’s so easy to just wander around from place to place taking snapshots of the bright, bold and brilliant art and architecture which makes Washington such an incredible place to visit.

Table Of Contents
  1. Blind Whino
  2. GreenWorks Flowers
  3. Smithsonian Museum of Natural History
  4. City Center DC
  5. Library of Congress
  6. Chesapeake and Ohio Canal Towpath
  7. Georgetown's Candy Coloured Houses
  8. U.S. Botanic Garden
  9. The Capitol Building
  10. Lincoln Reflecting Pool
  11. Cherry Blossoms around the Waterfront
  12. Kogod Courtyard National Portrait Gallery
  13. Capitol Hill Books

Blind Whino

Blind Whino is one of those locations which I feel like I’ve seen hundreds of time over the years on sites like MyModernMet and BoredPanda. But seeing it in real life, not just online, is something spectacular. The buildings is a renovated church painted with wild and wonderful colours and patterns. Be sure to step inside, many come here simply to take a picture of the exterior and head off but the interior is just as interesting and dynamic. There are often art shows on display so check their website for a list of gallery hours.

700 Delaware Ave SW, Washington, DC 20024

GreenWorks Flowers

Walking up to this shop was like walking into a dream. This cotton candy pink florist shop is always decked out for the season. At Christmas, it is dripping with fairy lights and baubles. Halloween is a surprisingly spooky affair. During the rest of the year, the entire exterior is always looking like a secret garden exploding out from the window boxes. I was bummed to see that the interior is pretty much just like any other florist shop and not some wild ‘Alice in Wonderland‘ but the exterior is what you’ll come to see anyways.

3428 O St NW, Washington, DC 20007

Smithsonian Museum of Natural History

The Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History is one of the most iconic museums in the world. Walking inside you’re greeted by one of the most important pieces of the collection, the giant African bull elephant. It stands in the middle of the incredible neoclassical domed rotunda. This building was constructed in 1910. And is still to this day one of the best examples of American Beaux-Arts architecture.

10th St. & Constitution Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20560

City Center DC

City Center DC is a five-block area of the city which is a collection of apartments and office buildings, but on the ground level, features some of the most exclusive and illustrious brands displayed in picturesque window displays. The main thoroughfare in CityCenter is always decorated for the season or for a particular event. Whether it’s hanging lanterns, rainbow umbrellas or a giant reindeer at Christmas time, the alley along Palmer street is always a favourite among photographers.

825 10th St NW, Washington, DC 20001

Library of Congress

The Library of Congress is, in my opinion, the most beautiful building in D.C. The inside is breathtaking and a perfect spot for some fantastic photos. The incredible and grandiose design of the library, now named the Thomas Jefferson Building, was inspired by the Paris Opera House. And it’s artistic and theatrical inspiration can be seen throughout. Inside the grey facade, you’ll be wowed by the multitude of colours painted on the ceiling frescoes and the fascinating sculptures peeking out from behind ornate marble columns.

101 Independence Ave SE, Washington, DC 20540

Chesapeake and Ohio Canal Towpath

Hidden behind the high fashion brands and hipster cafes in Georgetown, there is a natural oasis along the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. This canal was once used as a tow path where barges once came to delivery their cargo. On either side of the canal are some of the oldest buildings in Georgetown, providing a beautiful backdrop of the overgrowth and peaceful waterway.

1054 31st St NW, Washington, DC 20007, USA

Georgetown’s Candy Coloured Houses

In a cozy, quiet area in Georgetown, there are rows of streets dotted with pastel coloured houses. The shutters and doors are often painted in contrasting colours to make all those little architectural details stand out. I would recommend walking along O Street or N Street, starting at the University and then making your way towards Wisconsin Ave NW. They are not only beautifully painted but also incredibly preserved historical houses and walking this path feels like stepping back in time.

U.S. Botanic Garden

This is the place to come to feel like you’re in the tropics even if it’s blistering cold outside. The U.S. Botanic Garden is constantly changing with different plants in bloom. There is always something blooming or growing depending on the seasons so there’s always something incredible to see. The gardens are divided into various sections based on their temperature, region or what the plants are used for. There is a room dedicated entirely to medicinal plants. And it’s so interesting to see how plants are still used to this very day to help heal people despite all the advances in modern medicine. My favourite room for photos is ‘The Tropics‘ where huge Swiss cheese looking leaves hang from giant trees. And the air tastes almost taste sweet from the constantly growing flora. The glass windows of the greenhouse make for some incredible shots, not to be missed.

100 Maryland Ave SW, Washington, DC 20001

The Capitol Building

The Capital Building is one of the most iconic views in Washington, and no matter the weather or time of year, this place is incredibly stunning. It’s round, layered dome atop the pristine white columned building sticks up, high above the other buildings surrounding it. There are so many different viewpoints of the Capital Buildings all over the city but my favourite is down Pennsylvania Avenue.

East Capitol St NE & First St SE, Washington, DC 20004

Lincoln Reflecting Pool

There are so many incredible sights to be seen in the National Mall. But the Reflecting Pool is one of those locations that, day or night, is an awesome site for beautiful pictures which scream, “I’m in Washington!” The reflection of the surrounding trees and monuments, mirrored back at you from the waters is so compelling. And one can really appreciate how something so simple can be something so powerful.

2 Lincoln Memorial Cir NW, Washington, DC 20024

Cherry Blossoms around the Waterfront

The National Cherry Blossom Festival is a spring celebration in Washington, D.C. The blossoms are usually at their best in mid April. But be sure to check the site for when they’ll be in full bloom as it changes every year. The trees you can see surrounding the Tidal Basin beside the National Mall were gifts from Mayor Yukio Ozaki of Tokyo City. The banks of the Tidal Basin are one of the best spots to visit as you can not only take pictures of the pale pink blossoms but also have a great opportunity to see the Thomas Jefferson Memorial across the still waters.

1510 Maine Ave SW, Washington, DC 20024

Kogod Courtyard National Portrait Gallery

The National Portrait Gallery is a great place to see one of the most impressive collections of portraiture in America. But the Kogod Courtyard inside is a great spot for a portrait of your own! The massive courtyard is an architectural masterpiece and a place of serenity in a busy, loud city like Washington.

750 9th St NW #410, Washington, DC 20001, USA

Capitol Hill Books

Packed to the gills with paperbacks, hardcovers and magazines, Capitol Hill Books is nestled in the historic Eastern Market area. The exterior of the shop’s window, piled high with books, looks like a patchwork quilt and makes for a great snapshot of the kind of adorable shops which Georgetown is so famous for.

657 C St SE, Washington, DC 20003, USA

If you’d prefer to explore the city with a tour guide, check out some of these top walking tours!

What are your favourite places to photograph when you’re in the city! Let me know in the comments 🙂

Happy Travels, Adventurers

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