There has never been anything I’d been so quick to review. During my most recent stay in Mexico City, I was travelling solo. Whenever I’m alone, I love to join a group tour. While I do personally enjoy my solitude, I also enjoy meeting new people and getting to experience new adventures with others. I knew a food tour was in order, as I think there is no better way to get to know someone than having a meal with them! But it took me a while to find a tour that really piqued my interest. But then I found Eat Like a Local.

About Eat Like a Local

Eat Like a Local is a female-owned Mexico City Food Tour company that strives to be one of the best in sustainable tourism. It pays its female-only employees a proper wage and supports female-owned businesses in the market places. Plus, part of the tour price helps young girls go to school to learn to speak English. Providing them with a rich education that sets them up to succeed and grow. Any extra money the tour company earns goes towards sending some of the girls to go on a trip of their own. Anywhere around the world. Allowing them to see the same world of travel, they help tourists experience in their own city.

Giving back to the Community

The company even uses part of the tour price to support the infrastructure of the marketplaces. Helping to improve them. So many tours I saw listed seem to use the marketplaces as a tourist attraction. These tours don’t actively view the marketplace as a real place of work and community. While eating inside the marketplace is great to support the individual businesses, supporting the infrastructure where they work is a sign of a true venture into sustainable tourism. So with all that in mind, and a promise of some truly phenomenal street food, I booked my ticket and joined the tour.

The Best Foor Tour in Mexico City!

1. About Eat Like a Local
2. The Tour Details
3. The Overall Experience
4. La Condesa
5. Taking the Metro
6. Jamaica Market
7. La Merced Market
8. Juarez Gelato Shop

The Tour Details

Cost

Eat Like a Local offers three different food “safaris” for you to choose from. Each one costs $115 USD. This covers all the food you’ll eat on the tour as well as your transportation. I opted for the Mexican Food 101 tour as it seemed to cover the widest variety of food. They also have a Flower Market and Mezcal tasting tour but since I don’t drink very much I thought that one might not be for me. There is also a street food at night tour that I really can’t wait to check out next time I’m in town!

When you book, you’ll only pay half of the total tour price online via their website. The other half you MUST pay in CASH upon meeting the guide. They use this cash to pay for the food along the way. So it’s essential to bring the right amount of money when you arrive at the meeting point. Don’t think you can just stop at the ATM after the tour is over.

How Big is the Tour

Like any good tour group, the size of the group is small. This means you have a much more intimate experience. But with the guide and the rest of the group. I cannot stress enough how the five of us felt like old friends by the end of the day. I even knew all their kids’ names! Small tour groups really are a sign of a great experience to come.

How Long is the Tour?

The entire tour lasted about four hours. In that time we covered a lot of ground (thanks to hopping on and off the metro.) They say that you’ll walk about 4.5 miles throughout the tour. I loved all the walking as it really helped make room for more food! Dress comfortably, and wear good walking shoes. Be sure this means closed-toe shoes since the marketplaces can get wet.

A Note about Safety

When booking the tour, one of the things that both intrigued, excited and made me a bit nervous was the fact we would travel via the metro. I had long wanted to experience taking the metro in Mexico City. But after hearing so many stories about how dangerous it was, I was always hesitant. But my tour guide Panda made the experience fear-free and super explanatory for future trips. The metro was so efficient and I never felt unsafe. And aside from drawing attention to ourselves as a group of loud English speakers on a tour, I don’t think anyone would have given us a second look.

I was careful to bring only my phone with me and kept it in a bag with an internal zip when required. Panda was great about letting us know when we should be more careful. Just like any big city, some areas are more prevalent with pickpockets. The largest market in Barcelona is a huge hot spot for pickpockets, so don’t think it’s just CDMX. I never felt the least bit afraid anywhere we went on the tour. So don’t let their overly cautious advice put you off! Use common sense, leave your large camera at home and don’t wear or bring anything flashy. Our tour guide also took lots of pictures and even emailed them to us afterwards. So if you wanted to just leave everything at home, and immense yourself, you’ll still get lots of souvenir pictures to take home.

Accessibility

This tour might be challenging if you’re travelling in a wheelchair or have issues with accessibility. Both are due to the distance covered and the lack of accessible entrances in various parts of the marketplace. But, you can absolutely reach out to the tour company directly to book a private tour. They do lots of private tours and they will be able to curate a specific tour just for you.

Bathrooms

I am definitely someone who has a small bladder, so bathroom breaks are always imperative for longer tours. There were plenty of stops along the way for bathrooms. Don’t hesitate to ask if you need to use one. Most of the bathrooms inside the marketplace cost 5 pesos to enter, so bring a bit of change to use them. Our guide also had some coins for those who didn’t have any on them.

Dietary Restrictions

The tour states they can accommodate all different dietary restrictions, including vegetarian and gluten-free. Be sure to let them know in advance. This way, they can ensure something will be available for you at every stop. We had a vegetarian with us on our tour, and it was so fun to see all the different alternatives to our dishes. He definitely had to skip one of two stops but there were plenty of options at most places. And honestly, there is so much food on tour, missing out on one or two places might actually be a good idea!

The Overall Experience

Their website lists all the different types of food you’ll taste along the way, so I’m not giving anything away by detailing my experience here. I wanted to share the wonderful stories from my experience as a means to encourage those travelling to Mexico City to book a tour for themselves. But also as a way for those who read my blog to feel immersed in another world to travel along with me. Even if they can’t go themselves. Even if I did give you step-by-step instructions on where to go, you’d never be able to explore these places for yourself. There are too many hidden secrets and tiny sellers that only locals can guide you to.

La Condesa

We met up in La Condesa to start the tour off right with a coffee! This gave us all a chance to meet each other and get to know our guide. Our guide, Panda, was one of the most hilarious and fun people I’d ever met. From the minute she starting she felt like an old school friend and had us all smiling from ear to ear. After grabbing our coffees, we needed a little sweet treat. So we set out for pastries! We stopped at a Condesa institution which sells concha (sweet bread.) The perfect starter to get our stomachs prepped.

Tacos de Canasta

Next, we explored two different street food stalls in La Condesa. One was selling the classic breakfast staple Tacos de Canasta, aka sweaty tacos. These tacos are made by filling a taco with stew and bathing them in oil or butter. They are then layered up inside baskets and sold all over the city. Sometimes on the back of bicycles, but in this case at a street food stall.

The man working here had been selling them for over 35 years!! He is so popular that he made enough money selling these tacos to be able to send his kids to university! Here you had the options of a variety of fillings, from pork to potato and chicharron. Once you pick your filling, you could smother them in hot sauce. I was so surprised by how delicious they were. I had never tried tacos de canasta before because I thought they’d be soggy. But that wasn’t the case at all! I could have honestly eaten a dozen. But knew I had to save room in my stomach, as this was only our second stop!

Mixiotes

The next stop was tacos mixiotes. Mixiotes are made from stewing meat inside an agave leaf bag. The meat was so flavourful, seasoned with a mixture of all different chillies. This stand had almost a dozen other toppings you could add to your taco. I wanted to really savour the flavour of the meat, so I just went with a few slices of nopales (cactus) pads. And, of course, a squeeze of lime and hot sauce.

It was about now that I realized I would never be able to finish everything we sampled at this rate. As much as I wanted to because everything we ate was delicious. Thankfully, Panda, our guide, stepped in and told us no one would be offended if we didn’t finish. And we could split what we could share, or she could ask the vendor for a smaller portion. I felt so relieved as I’m always so worried that my small stomach and inability to always finish what’s on my plate is apt to offend the cook!

Taking the Metro

After this stop, we hopped onto the metro at Baldera station. I had been pretty nervous about riding the metro. But from the minute we descended down into the station, I realized how perfectly normal and unintimidating it was. All your tickets are paid for upon entering, but Panda took us through how to buy your tickets and use the system in case you want to ride the metro on your own after the tour.

The metro platforms were incredibly clean and actually super pretty to look at. The floors and walls were made of beautiful stone that looked like the station were carved out of the ground. While we were on tour, the metro was fairly empty, only getting busy near mid-afternoon. Most of the time, we could all get seats with no problem. When the cars were super full, we simply waited for the next train. They come very frequently so we had no trouble getting enough space and feeling safe. Interesting to note that there are also female-only train cars. These are marked on the floor of the station platform with pink signs marked with “Solo Dames y Menores de 12 Anos.”

Jamaica Market

The next stop on tour was inside Jamaica Market! Although you might read the word “Jamaica” and think of the country, Jamaica actually means “hibiscus flower” in Spanish. The Jamaica Market is home to the largest flower market in the city, with over 1,150 stalls selling over 5,000 different varieties of flowers! Almost all of them grown around Mexico.

The market is divided into two different areas; the first is almost devoid of flowers entirely and primarily sells produce, meat and other grocery staples. When you cross over to the second section of the market, you’re immediately overwhelmed with the smell of flowers. Before you can even see the flowers, you’ll know you’ve arrived.

Tacos Carnitas & Tepache

Our first stop was at a long communal table right at the market entrance. Pig heads hung in the butcher shops down the aislse, and you knew right away this was the place to get pork! The order was simple, tacos de carnitas, topped with raw onions and cilantro. While I thought I’d had carnitas before, after tasting this, it felt like I had never eaten them before in my life. This was the best-tasting taco I’ve ever eaten, and I still dream about it! While we were eating, Panda explained to us the myths about why you are almost always given two tortillas with every serving of tacos. But I’ll leave that tidbit for you to discover on tour…

To pair with our tacos, we got to sample tepache. Tepache is a fermented pineapple drink made from the peel and the rind of pineapples and refined cane sugar. It had that tang you get from other fermented drinks like kombucha. It was super sweet but so delicious and definitely cleansed the palette from the fatty pork tacos. The perfect combination!

Jicaleta

Next up, we walked around the market to the brightly coloured bins of what looked like powdered sugar. Beside these pins were huge round discs on popsicle sticks that looked like white lollipops with the words “Rico Jicaleta.” I have seen these signs all over the city and always wondered what they were! It turns out the giant thing on a popsicle stick is a Jicama, a root vegetable.

To convince kids to eat their vegetables, someone came up with the genius idea to cover the jicama with chamoy (pickled plum with chile sauce) and then dip the veggie in powdered sugar. Since the jicama is pretty neutral in its flavouring it allows itself to be the vehicle for these amazing flavours of powered sugar. Everything as simple as strawberry or blueberry to more exciting flavours like mango chilli and tamarind. You can even use the other colours to create a cool rainbow-like pattern on the jicama. I can see why these are such a popular treat with both kids and adults.

Piñata Market

Next up on tour, we walked deeper into the marketplace amongst hundreds and hundreds of piñatas. The Jamaica market is known for its huge piñatas selection. Design range from traditional stars to cartoon characters. And I even saw a covid one! What a perfect thing to bash away at, a way of taking out all the pent up frustration over the loss of the last two years.

Chorizo Verde

Sitting down outside a small shop beside piles of bright fruits and vegetables, we tried what I thought was the most incredible taco innovation of the whole tour; green chorizo! The proud owner displayed all his different types of chorizo sausages outside the shop. But none were as eye wateringly delicious to look at as the green chorizo. The pork-based sausage is mixed with a blend of fresh green veggies like spinach and lettuce. Then zesty green herbs are added to ramp the flavour up. Anything from cilantro, thyme, marjoram, whatever is in season.

After this they add green chillies (because heat is a staple of the chorizo sausage) and the most important and unique ingredient – NUTS! Yes, that’s right, they add anything from peanuts to pumpkins seeds or almonds to the meat. We ate it completely plain to start to ensure we could appreciate the flavour of all the ingredients. And OMG, I cannot explain how incredible this was. Truly one of the most unique and surprising parts of the tour. I wish I could remember where this was so I could go back to eat more!

Heading down to the other side of the market, we stopped at a few more stalls for some tiny samples as we went. Crispy tortillas covered in locally made crema y queso (cream cheese) and a bite of chicharrón (deep-fried pork skin).

Fresh Fruit Stalls

On the other side of the market, where the smell of flowers filled the air, we stopped for a selection of fresh fruit. The fruit was just what the doctor ordered to change things up and refresh my palette. I always admire the beautiful spreads at these fruit stands when I pass by. So many different fruits I’ve never tried, let alone seen before. Lucky for me, when we stopped, the friendliest man came out from behind the piles of fruit with these little banana leaf trays. Inside were slices of all kinds of fruits. Panda took us through what each bite was, and we dove in.

My taste buds were exploding. I couldn’t believe how delicious some of these fruits were, things I’d never tried before, which set my mouth alight. My favourite by far was the Soursop, which was tangy, sweet, and, as the name indicates, sour. I need to find this in Toronto! And my other favourite was the black zapote, which tastes like chocolatey permission pudding! The Chirimoya blew my mind as it tasted like a strawberry blended with a kiwi. I was truly entranced by all the flavours and vowed to make more of an effort to buy fresh fruit next time I’m in town.

Wholesale Flowers

Walking around the flower market was the best kind of chaos. We didn’t have a ton of time to admire the flowers; this is a working market, after all. People were milling about, grabbing carfuls of flowers for their stands in the city and small bouquets for their homes. Voices cried over one and other as people haggled for the best price.

During the Day of the Dead ceremonies, this market is packed to the rooftops with trucks full of orange Mexican marigolds. These are the most popular flower synonymous with the festival. They are used to decorate the ofrendas of past loved ones as the brightly coloured flowers are thought to guide the spirits of those who have passed back home.

As we moved through the crowds of people, we arrived at the back, where the larger floral displays are located. These are for celebrations like communions and quinceaneras in addition to funerals and weddings. But apparently, one of the most popular reasons people buy huge floral displays is to apologize for cheating on their wives…or at least that’s what Panda told us! The bigger the arrangement, the more sorry you are!

Esquites

The next stop on tour was for a cup of esquites fritos. Esquites are fire-roasted corn kernels, stewed in lard, and mixed with aromatic herbs and arbol chillies. I’ve had esquites many times before, as they are one of my favourite street snacks, but none as delicious as the ones we got here! There are definitely some secret ingredients at work here.

Before leaving the market, we stopped at a tortilla maker cranking out hundreds of perfect corn circles every hour. There is genuinely nothing more fresh than eating a hot tortilla right off the press. With nothing more than a sprinkle of salt, you can really appreciate how simple and complex the flavours are. And why this tiny disc has become such a staple of Mexican food throughout the centuries.

La Merced Market

After a quick bathroom break, we hopped back on the metro. We transferred from the teal line (#4) to the pink line (#1) and made our way directly into the Mercados de la Merced. Mercados de la Merced, or La Merced Market, has its own dedicated metro stop. And unlike other metro stations where you need to exit onto the street to get to your next destination, this stop exits right into the heart of the market. This is actually the only way you should enter the market. The exterior streets around here are a little dangerous but by entering directly inside, you avoid the exterior entirely.

History of the Market

La Merced Market is named after the monastery of Nuestra Señora de la Merced de Redención de Cautivos. The monastery was established here in 1594, just after the Spanish Conquest. The neighbourhood that sprang up around the monastery also goes by the name La Merced. After the conquest, this part of the city, being just on the outskirts (before the expansion of what is now CDMX), was a hotbed for traders. They would arrive here from all different parts of the country and beyond. They could easily dump their goods here for sale and transfer further into the central part of the city.

By 1860, almost the entire neighbourhood was one big market. So the city decided to move the marketplace into a permanent, covered building. By now, the old La Merced Monastery has been closed down for years. But the empty building proved to be the perfect place to establish the new permanent market.

20th Century Market

In the 20th century, the market continued to expand becoming one of the largest wholesale markets in the city. Here you can find everything from fruit, vegetables, meat, poultry, toys, clothes, flowers, candy and more.

Sadly, there is a dark history to the building as well. In 1988 a fireworks stall exploded inside the marketplace, killing more than 60 people! Then again, in 1998, there was another fire due to faulty wiring that destroyed much of the old main hall and 572 stalls. Luckily no one was killed in that fire, but the damage was extensive. Despite the accident occurring almost 20 years ago, repairs are still ongoing.

Just in front of the entrance to the market from the metro station, you’ll see a cheerful cartoon map of the marketplace. Each different section of the market is dedicated to a different specialty, so you know exactly where to go for what. I was immediately drawn to the candy section and was delighted to hear we would be stopping in there near the end of the tour.

Insects

Our first stop inside the market threw us right into the deep end of Mexican cuisine, at the Insectos stand. Yes, that’s right, bugs! I actually really like bugs as food; I’ve had them a few times around the world and find the flavour pretty interesting. If you don’t want to try them, just politely say no. Don’t make a big show of being grossed out or anything like that. Insects have been eaten and used in cooking here for centuries. It’s disrespectful to act disgusted by a kind of food they consider pretty normal.

I do recommend trying them at least once. And when you stop here at the stall, they also give you a glass of freshly pressed pineapple juice to chase down the bugs. In case it’s just not for you. My favourite was the crickets, but I was actually surprised how much I liked the little worms! The scorpion was the least tasty, a little too earthy for my liking, but I’m sure it would be great in other dishes.

Micheladas

We walked through the crowds of stalls towards the outer edge of the market, along Rosario street. Despite being a working street, with cars and lorries driving through, it also feels like an extension of the marketplace. Stalls pour out onto the streets with their wares leaning out so far they almost touch either side of the road. It’s so tight that often when a big truck comes thru, some stores need to move things they’re selling back inside to allow the cars to pass. It’s a very cool bit of choreography to watch.

We took a seat inside a casual bar where we gathered around a large table, welcomed by the smiles of the locals. Then we were given a series of brightly colours bowls, jars and glass bottles, like a modern-day apothecary in the centre of Mexico City. We were greeted by the amazingly kind Arely, one of the girls from the 80IQ program. 80IQ is a program created by the Eat Like a Local founder that funds the education of these young women and where they also receive mentoring.

With her adorable son in tow, Arley came to our table to practice speaking English and teach us to make a Mexican Michelada. Micheladas are such a fun beverage to make and we loved learning all the steps and ingredients that go into it! First, cover the rim in chamoy and dip in caramelized sesame seeds. Next, add more chamoy, Worcestershire, and hot sauce then filled the glass with a cold beer! Since I don’t drink beer, so I was given a glass of fizzy pineapple juice, and let me tell you mixture was just as delicious!!! We took this chance to enjoy our cold drinks, a refreshing break from the heat of the day. We grabbed for a bit, chatting with Arley and even celebrating an anniversary in our little group!

Quesadillas

From here, Arley handed us over to Wendy, another girl from the program. Wendy spoke incredibly well at only 14 years old and was such a great guide! She took us to her grandmother’s street food stall, where a series of women bustling around a hot comal. They went about serving us bite-size pieces of a variety of classic Mexican street food samples.

Huitlacoche

The one I was most excited about trying were the quesadillas. Although this might not seem very exotic, the filling inside the quesadilla was ‘huitlacoche‘ or, as it is known in English, corn smut! Huitlacoche is considered a delicacy in Mexico, even though it might not seem very appetizing. The word comes from the Nahuatl language and means “sleeping excrescence,” because the corn is transformed by a fungus that impedes them from developing. Thus, they remain “sleeping.” If the fungus doesn’t sound appealing to you, I’d ask, “well, have you ever eaten mushroom?” because the flavour is essentially the same. I couldn’t believe how complex the flavour was, and I was so happy I had finally been able to sample it! 

Pambazo

We also got quesadillas with squash blossoms filled with cheese from Oaxaca. Then there was a slice of tlacoyo filled with black beans and covered in requeson (like ricotta cheese) and more nopales. The last item on the place was Pambazo. The pambazo sandwich is apparently the most authentic Mexico City street food. One that originated here. It is made from a white bun that has been dipped in adobo sauce and then filled with chorizo, cheese, cream and lettuce.

Candy

After all this, I thought there was no way I’d ever be able to get up. But somehow, we shuffled out of the tiny chairs outside the street food stall and bid a sad farewell to Wendy’s family. They waved goodbye to us with big smiles as we headed back into the crowded marketplace. But I perked up as we learned we were on our way to the candy district. There are many reasons I love Mexico City, but one of them has got to be their love of bulk candies. You can find little carts wheeling around the neighbourhood every day. Filled with candy fills at the ready for your cravings. But here in the marketplace must be where they all come to load up these carts every morning.

Candies exploded out of bins and baskets in rainbow colours everywhere we looked. We sampled a few unique varieties like dried mango with chilis, tamarind candies, spicy candied almonds and, of course, lots and lots of flavoured powdered sugar. My favourites are these little fruit-shaped gummies that look like they are made of glass. Almost too pretty to eat! I could honestly have been here for hours, but I was too full to try anything more, lucky for my blood sugar.

Juarez Gelato Shop

To arrive at our last stop on tour, we hopped once more on the metro and made our way over to the Juarez neighbourhood. This part of town is just starting to become a new hot spot for hip eateries. We stopped at one of the chicest gelato shops, where we were greeted by flavours out of this world. Tamarind & mezcal, Oaxacan chocolate, cempasúchil (marigold), tonka bean, olive oil, lavender, and even epazote elato leaf are just some of the falvours that are on rotation here. We got to sample any three flavours we wanted. Although I had felt like I couldn’t eat another bite earlier, there seems to always be a second stomach for dessert.

This was our last stop, so we all just sat around chatting while eating our ice cream. None of us wanted to leave. We had all really become friends by the end of the day. Panda gave us all her recommendations based on the questions we asked along the way. After much hesitation, we all eventually parted ways! Leaving with full bellies, smiles on our faces, and lots of stories to share with our friends and family. The perfect end to the perfect tour.

To Tip or Not to Tip?

Tipping is always a considerate thing to do at the end of a tour just as at the end of a meal. It’s a way to say “thank you” to the guide for their time, effort and expertise. While it’s not required, it is appreciated. Don’t feel the need to financially burden yourself but honestly, even a little bit goes a long way to show your appreciation.

I truly can’t say enough good things about this tour and I really hope if you get the chance to visit Mexico City you put booking this Mexico City Food Tour with Eat Like a Local at the top of your list!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Best Street Food Tour in Mexico City! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

If you’ve just arrived and wanted something a little more laid back and relaxing, try out this self-guided walking tour of La Condesa. You can easily spend the entire day following this path and making your own stops along the way.

Guided Tour of La Condesa

1. Accessibility
2. La Condesa History
3. Is La Condesa Safe?
4. Map of Walking Tour
5. Chiquitito Café
6. La Esquina del Chilaquiles
7. Michoacan Market
8. García Madero
9. Avenida Mazatlan 
10. Nevería Roxy
11. Los Condesa
12. Lardo
13. Avenida Veracruz
14. Hotel Condesa DF
15. Archivos Plutarco Elías Calles
16. Parque España
17. Avenida Ámsterdam
18. Plaza Citlaltepec
19. Parque México
20. Fuente de Los Cántaros 
21. Lindbergh Open Air Theater
22. Churrería El Moro
23. Art Deco Architecture
24. Edificio Rosa
25. The Edificio San Martín
26. The Basurto Building
27. Edificio Tehuacan
28. Plaza Popocatépetl

Accessibility

This walking tour isn’t very strenuous, there are no uphills to power through and the distance is pretty minimal in total. For anyone who gets tired and there are plenty of places to stop and rest along the way since even the fittest of us can suffer the effects of Mexico City’s elevation. If you’re in a wheelchair or have a mobility aid, the sidewalks of La Condesa are mostly very wide and easy to navigate. Certain areas of the sidewalk were severely damaged by the earthquake but I’ve done my best to make a map of the best sidewalks to go through which have been repaired or restored.

La Condesa History

La Condesa is a small neighbourhood about 5 km outside the city centre. The word “Condesa” means “countess” as this neighbourhood was named after María Magdalena Dávalos de Bracamontes y Orozco, the Countess of Miravalle. The Countess bought a huge expanse of land when she moved to Mexico City. This was her little empire. The area was purchased from a wealthy family, whose last descendants had died. With no children to inherit the land, the Countess was able to buy it all up at a good price. The Countess owned a large manor house to the westernmost point in the city. Today, this old house has been converted into the Russian Embassy. Since the Embassy is highly protected, you can’t really see much of it from the street, so it’s not worth the trek to the west side of town to try to see it.

The Countess rented the land and constructed apartment complexes throughout the new colony. These were specifically geared towards the upper class of Mexico City. The neighbourhood was wealthy enough to afford the best landscape architects and city planners. They made it their goal to create wide, open streets, tree-lined avenues and large, sumptuous parks. Condesa is often called the “lungs” of the city. There are more trees located in this borough than collectively across the rest of the city.

20th Century La Condesa

In the early 20th century, Condesa continued to grow and became a popular place for artists to live. Agustín Lara, a composer of romantic ballads, flamenco dancer Pilar Rioja and painter Juan Soriano all, lived in Condesa. In addition to these artists, many cinema stars of the 40s and 50s also moved into the neighbourhood. Walking along the streets of La Condesa in the 50s was like spotting the whos who of Mexican Hollywood elite.

Mexico City Earthquake

The 1985 Mexico City earthquake had a devastating impact on La Condesa. You can still see some of the damage to this day, particularly along the sidewalks on many unused side streets. Many of the people who lived here couldn’t afford to repair their houses, so some were left abandoned. Other families couldn’t afford to move, so they had to remain living in this destruction zone. The rich and elite of the neighbourhood all moved out to Polanco, which is now the Beverly Hills of Mexico City.

The once affluent neighbourhood was reduced to rubble, and for years it remained one of the cheapest places to live. But cheap rent eventually attracted a younger generation of people to live in the area. They came with ambitions to rise up and revitalize the area. Because no one could afford to tear down old buildings, Condesa’s historic houses are left untouched. Therefore precious art deco and midcentury designs are happily still on display today.

Trendy and bohemian restaurants started to pop up in La Condesa due to the inexpensive real estate. And they were much needed to feed this emerging population. With new bars and restaurants, came more people. Condesa’s restaurants were the first in the city to offer outdoor seating along the sidewalks. Since La Condesa’s sidewalks were designed to be wide and comfortable, there was plenty of room to set up tables along the street. This created an outdoor dining room feeling, of everyone eating together in the neighbourhood. Still today, La Condesa is the hottest spot in the city to find trendy restaurants and chic cafes.

Street Art in Condesa

Urban artists found the empty corners of Condesa to be a blank canvas for their art, and even today, despite the rise of urbanization and gentrification, some of the city’s best street artist’s work can be found along these streets. Unlike simple graffiti tags, these masterpieces are truly spectacular works of art. In addition to being beautiful decorations for the neighbourhood, they also draw in street art tours and curious tourists.

Is La Condesa Safe?

When we booked our first trip to Mexico City, safety was my primary focus when booking a hotel. I heard that of all the neighbourhoods in Mexico City, La Condesa had one of the lowest crime rates while still being near all the big sights. I felt completely comfortable walking alone at night in this area without a second thought, and I’m not one of the bravest people. Things can happen anywhere in the world, that’s for sure, so it’s always good to keep a level head and be aware of your surroundings. But overall, I feel like the hype over Mexico City being dangerous is overblown in the media.

Map of Walking Tour

Chiquitito Café

Start your day with a coffee from Chiquitito Café. The cafe can be found at #232 Alfonso Reyes. Just west of Alfonso Reyes and Aguascalientes street. The cafe opens early in the morning, around 7:30 am. A lot of places in Mexico City don’t open till later, and if you’re like me you want to get out bright and early. This cafe is tiny, but you’ll know where it is immediately by the line out the door.

Their coffee is unbelievably smooth. I’m a bit of a coffee baby and always order a latte or cappuccino and sneak some sugar into it. But at Chiquitito Cage, no sugar was needed, the coffee was just that good. The tables out on the street are perfect for people watching. Street sweepers are cleaning the fallen leaves, tamales sellers are out on their bikes, and school children are off hand in hand with their parents. A wonderfully normal slice of life in Mexican City.

La Esquina del Chilaquiles

After a shot of coffee to wake you up, head over to the corner of Alfonso Reyes and Tamaulipas street. Here you’ll find one of the most delicious street food breakfast options in the entire city. Even before this stands opens, there is a line down the street of locals waiting for this incredible treat; torta de chilaquiles. You NEED to get here early to make sure you don’t miss out on this iconic Condesa treat. Torta de Chilaquiles is a unique Mexican breakfast sandwich. “Chilaquiles” is a Nahuatl word, which means “bathed in chilli.”

This shop has been serving the neighbourhood since 1950 and has been run by generations of the same family. Their torta is made with a large, fresh french roll, as big your forearm. The roll is split open and filled with refried black beans, two types of meat, salsa, and fried corn chips. Finally, it’s finished off with a crumbling of cojita cheese and fresh cream. The entire monstrous sandwich costs only 35 pesos ($1.80 USD)! And you’ll be full for hours! If you don’t have a big appetite you can split it between two or three people.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by 𝑷𝒂𝒔𝒊𝒐𝒏𝒙𝒍𝒂𝑪𝒐𝒎𝒊𝒅𝒂_𝑶𝒇𝒊𝒄𝒊𝒂𝒍 (@pasionxlacomida_oficial)

Michoacan Market

If you’re interested in visiting a local marketplace, then head up the street to the Michoacán Market. Head northeast on Avenue Tamaulipas for three blocks. Just past Avenue Vicente Suárez you’ll find the market on the corner of Tamaulipas and Avenue Michoacán. The Michoacán Market was built in 1946 and has an amazing Functionalist architectural design. The market is located at the intersection of three of the most important streets in Condesa. This made the marketplace the de facto heart of Condesa. Inside there are twenty-seven different vendors selling everything from fruits and veggies to slow-cooked meals and freshly baked tortillas.

García Madero

Head west for about two blocks on Avenue Michoacán toward Avenue Vicente Suárez. The smell of freshly baked bread will simply draw you into this shop. García Madero Bakery sells small batches of baked sweets and bread right out of this little shop. Once their goods are sold out, the shop closes down, so don’t rely on the official business hours for your chance to taste these amazing baked goods. The owner of the shop was once a lawyer and quit his job to follow his passion for baking. And from his huge popularity, it looks like it has more than paid off. Try their concha, a classic Mexican sweet bread that is recognizable by its seashell textured top. But if you visit in the Spring, try the chocolate-dipped croissants with edible pansy flowers. Spectacular to eat as well as to look at!

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Garcia Madero (@garcia.madero)

Avenida Mazatlan 

With your delicious sweet bread in hand, wander west across Avenida Vicente Suárez for four blocks until you reach Avenida Mazatlan. The Avenida Mazatlán is a wide stretch of roads with a gorgeous central pedestrian walkway. This walkway is flanked by enormous trees and plants of all kinds. Walking beneath this canopy makes you feel like you’re in a tropical dream. Even on the hottest day, the shade beneath these trees is so refreshing.

The Avenida Mazatlan is full of amazing architectural sights. This street was one of the first where the new Condesa colony expanded, and the buildings along the street represent the styles of architecture as the neighbourhood began to grow. You’ll see designs like neocolonial, functionalist, eclectic and rationalist styles, but especially art deco. There are over 250 buildings along this one street, which are designated as artistic value to the neighbourhood. 

Nevería Roxy

Nevería Roxy can be found just a block north at the intersection of Fernando Montes de Oca and Avenida Mazatlan. This is a neighbourhood establishment that has been serving up ice cream to the community since 1946. In the 50s it was one of the most happening places where famous bullfighters, businessmen, cattlemen and fans would come after the bullfights from the nearby Plaza de Toros Condesa. The ice cream parlour still has the retro charm of the original shop, and although machines and technology have changed, the recipes have not. You can get traditional flavours as well as some exotic Mexican fruit flavoured ones as well. Perfect for a hot day!

Los Condesa

Head northwest on Avenida Mazatlan toward Juan de la Barrera for about three blocks. Just past Juan de la Barrera you’ll see an old white and green painted apartment complex. This series of apartments is called “Los Condesa,” and were the first luxury apartments to be built on the block in 1911. These beautiful apartments drew other wealthy people into the area. They were ostensibly the buildings that founded the neighbourhood. Today the waiting list to live in these apartments, despite their old age, is incredibly long. They are considered historical, and the prestige of living there is quite high.

Lardo

Walk just one block north, on the corner of Avenida Mazatlan and Veracruz street, and you’ll find one of the cutest restaurants in the city. Lardo is a trendy brunch and lunch spot that has some of the very best huevos rancheros in the city! It’s a fantastic blend of traditional ingredients and modern menu items. The hipster vibe inside blends the historical aspects of old Mexico City with the vibrant new ideas and sensibilities which the younger generations are bringing to restaurants and cafes in these old neighbourhoods.

Avenida Veracruz

Continuing on our walking tour, we set out to stroll down Veracruz street. We will be walking east on Avenue Veracruz toward Agustín Melgar for three blocks. A great way to work off that filling lunch! This street is dotted with fantastical old mansions decorated in vibrant colours. These old houses are covered in rich ornamentations and fine ironwork. The area was severely damaged during the 1985 earthquake, and despite the wealth of many of these houses, there is still the occasional abandoned house which displays the damage of that immense quake.

Hotel Condesa DF

At the end of Veracruz Street, just before the park, make a stop at the Hotel Condesa DF. You’ll recognize it right away from their antique, burgundy car, which sits out front. This building is a gorgeous, albeit pretty pricey, hotel, but it was originally built as a great manor house. The architect designed the house in the French neoclassical style in 1928. The columns along the corners of the building are my favourite little detail, as they are covered in ornate carvings. If you’d like to stop in for a drink, the rooftop terrace has a lovely bar with views of the nearby park.

Archivos Plutarco Elías Calles

Walk around the back of Hotel DF, along Guadalajara street to house #104. This is the Archivos Plutarco Elías Calles. This building is another incredible example of Mexican neo-gothic architecture. The mansion was originally designed for the personal secretary to President Álvaro Obregón. The neo-gothic style of architecture was popularized by the great Metropolitan Cathedral in the Zocalo. This style featured pointed arches, stone rosettes, and large stained glass windows. All of which can be seen here. Today this house has been turned into a temporary restaurant but hopefully that becomes a permanent feature so everyone can enjoy the stunning garden inside.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Van Patto (@vanpatto)

Parque España

Walk across the street, you’ll find the little brother park to the opulent Parque Mexico, Parque España. Parque España was built in 1921 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the end of the Mexican War of Independence. In the centre of the park, is a great blue abstract sculpture, commemorating Lázaro Cárdenas. Cárdenas was the President of Mexico between 1934 and 1940 and has been revered as “the greatest constructive radical of the Mexican Revolution.” He stands like a beacon in the park, still overseeing his people.

Avenida Ámsterdam

Walk east across the park. You’ll pop out on the other side, on Avenue Nuevo León which runs north/south. Make your way to the street running east/west called Avenue Parras. Head east along this street for just one blocks and you’ll arrive onto Avenida Ámsterdam. The Avenida Ámsterdam is a huge oval road which encircles the grande Parque México. The central walkways lined in great trees are some of the lushest pedestrian avenues anywhere in the city. Because this avenue is mainly residential and seems hidden away from the busy main roads, it’s also one of the most peaceful places in a city. Despite being one of the most populated cities in the world, this area of town feels like you’re in the middle of nowhere.

The Race Track

We’re going to walk south along the ring road for four blocks. The circular aspect of the road was not simply a stylish design. It was for a practical purpose as the road was initially designed for racing. President Diaz inaugurated the race track in 1910. The track hosted both automobile and horse racing, both of which were at the height of their popularity in the early 20th century. Racing was for the elite of Mexican high society as the money they poured into this area can still be seen today.

During the 1920s, in the height of the art deco trend, many manor homes and mansions were built around the racetrack. Even the sidestreets themselves were given the artistic treatment with lamposts and street furniture being designed right into the roadway. This way the entire street looked bespoke. These lamposts and outdoor furniture are still around today for you to sit and chat on while waiting for the light to change. Their fabulous blue tiles are still as vibrant as the day they were installed.

Plaza Citlaltepec

At the southernmost point of the Avenida Ámsterdam is the Plaza Citlaltepec. This small parkette, with a central fountain, might not be very historically famous but it’s my favourite little area of the city. On all sides of the roundabout, there are adorable cafes and restaurants. A kind fruit vendor is always parked on the Avenida Ámsterdam on the west side of the fountain, and I love stopping in there to get a freshly cut mango with spicy chilli and lime! On the north side of the roundabout is a brightly painted, purple hotel which is awesome to marvel at even from the outside. It’s just such a charming slice of Mexico City, and I love coming here.

Parque México

From the park, head north up Citlaltépetl street, for one block, to the southeast corner of the great Parque México. I adore this park. Coming here in the afternoon means the park is absolutely bursting with excitement. Hundreds of dogs are out for their afternoon walk, kids are playing in the large square and lots of locals and tourists are relaxing under the enormity of shade the park provides. Especially during the Jacaranda season, this park is one of the most beautiful places in the city.

They call this park the lungs of the city since there are so many trees here trying to filter out all the city’s pollution. Hereunder these trees are where people in some areas of the city without green space come to “convalesce.”

Instead of being designed based on a rigid, street like a plan, this park was inspired by the great gardens of European palaces. Ponds and walkways weave and sway throughout the nine hectares of parkland. Organic forms are used throughout, and even the benches are designed to look like they are merely a few branches placed together to form a sitting area.

Flora and Fauna

Throughout the park, you’ll see Lebanese cypress, mimosas, and palms. There is also a variety of exotic flora such as bamboo and brightly coloured flowers. Some of these plants were native to the land when the park was constructed, and new varieties were added to make it look as natural as possible. They never wanted anything to feel too purposeful, just natural.

Fuente de Los Cántaros 

Wander north through the first section of the park until you come to Avenue Michoacán, which bisects the park. On the other side of this street, greeting you with a sly smile is the Fuente de Los Cántaros. Fuente de Los Cántaros means fountain of the jugs, and although the indigenous women in the centre is holding two water jugs, you might get an idea why the fountain was nicknamed this for a different reason. The woman who modelled for the statue was Luz Jiménez, who also modelled for Diego Rivera, which is why her face might look so familiar.

Lindbergh Open Air Theater

Behind the fountain, is the enormous Lindbergh Open Air Theater. There has never been a single time I’ve visited here when there weren’t kids out playing soccer in this huge arena. It is never devoid of life. The arena was named after Lindbergh, the first man to make a transatlantic flight. The architect hoped to inspire Mexico City’s youth to reach for the sky just as Lindbergh did! In the centre of the theatre are five geometric pillars designed in the art deco style. On either side of the stage area are two, albeit ageing, frescoes. The surrounding pergola provides shade and the vibrant bougainvillea flowers, which creep over the rooftop, create the most fantastical canopy.

Churrería El Moro

Wander around the park, eating from the various street food stalls and enjoying a short rest under the gorgeous shady trees. If you’d rather avoid street food (although I highly recommend trying it) you can head to Churrería El Moro located just east of the Parque Mexico on Avenue Mexico and Avenue Michoacán. Here you’ll be able to sample a slice of true Mexican history!

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Stephen Prevost (@scprevost)

The churro was a dessert brought over by the Spanish, but dipping it inside a cup of hot, thick chocolate sauce, was the way in which the Mexicans made the dish their own! Churrería El Moro is now a chain of churro shops, but the original opened in 1935. Today, the grandchildren of the original owner have opened branches all over Mexico City. The Churrería El Moro in Condesa has comfy rocking chairs and benches to relax on outside, but if the restaurant is full, take your snacks over to the park to enjoy under the warm moonlight in the Lindbergh Open Air Theater. The best place to end the night!

Art Deco Architecture

Once restored, get ready to make your way north along Avenue Mexico. Avenue Mexico was one of the most prestigious real estate spots in the entire city, as the houses along this road overlooked the park. The majority of these buildings were built throughout the 1920s to 40s and maintained a highly stylized art deco theme throughout. Even some of the buildings which are being restored to be transformed into hotels are working hard to maintain their exterior design as the retro look is what draws so many people to this area.

Edificio Rosa

Walking north along Avenue Mexico for half a block to the Edificio-Rosa at #147. The Edificio-Rosa building is worth a stop to see the blush-painted exterior juxtaposed with black wrought iron window bars. The colour combo is truly fabulous. But what I love even more is the incredible typography of the building’s name, spelled out on the exterior.

The Edificio San Martín

Continue north, crossing Teotihuacan Street find #167 Avenue Mexico. This amazing structure is the San Martín Building, designed by Ernesto Buenrostro. The most interesting aspect of this 1930s design is the name of the building, which is cut out into the facade of the exterior! The lobby of the building still has so many of those art deco tiles and details, so if you can get a peek inside without disturbing the doorman, you should try to get a lookie!

The Basurto Building

Continue walking north, crossing Avenue Sonora, where you’ll find the Basurto Building at #187 Avenue Mexico. The Basurto Building is another iconic Bauhaus-style building that is notable mostly for its straights lines, which bend and weave into curving waves. It was designed by architect Francisco J. Serrano in 1945. The building was severely damaged in the 1985 earthquake, but restoration efforts were put underway in recent years to restore this architectural gem!

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Itzel Lavanderos Hawes (@itzlah)

Edificio Tehuacan

Just across the street at #188 is the Tehuacán Building. This is probably my favourite of all the art deco structures in this area. It was built in 1931 and was designed bu the same man who made the San Martín Building, Ernesto Buenrostro. What makes Buenrostro so interesting was that he was a Mexican architect who used elements from the art deco styles which were so pervasive around the world but embued in those designs, traditional Mexican elements. On the front of the exterior, blended in with the geometric elements of the architecture are terra-cotta coloured carvings from ancient Aztec culture.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Tito Trueba (@titotrueba)

Plaza Popocatépetl

Walking one more block north along Avenue Mexico, you come to a roundabout, marked with a large fountain. This is the Plaza Popocatépetl. The fountain is named after Popocatépetl, a large volcano in central Mexico. The art deco Popocatépetl fountain was designed in 1927. This fountain is one of my favourites, I love the traditional, Mexican tile works which add texture and interest to the white dome in the centre of the fountain. This is the final point on the tour and a great place to take a rest and reflect on all we saw along the way!

La Condesa is my favourite neighbourhood in the city, and I’d honestly be happy never leaving these streets the entire time, that’s just how amazing this place is. Although following this tour is a great introduction, the best part of La Condesa is exploring hidden streets and finding new amazing restaurants and boutiques for yourself along the way! Please share here your favourite part of La Condesa or let me know where you like to stay when in Mexico City!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Ultimate Self Guided Tour of La Condesa, Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

What’s a tianguis 

A tianguis (tehYAN-gyez) comes from the old Aztec word tianquiztli, which meant the marketplaces. Markets were of the utmost importance in the Aztec culture. The Aztecs built their empire on trade, and the ritual continues to this day in Mexico.

The pink tarps which cover the entire market are actually quite important as they signify that this market is a part of a government-sanctioned program. They ensure the legitimacy of the sellers, which can trade in the tinaguis’. The government-run organization is called the “System of Markets on Wheels” (Sistema de Mercados Sobre Ruedas). It’s named as such since these same vendors have to be mobile and move their shops around the city, wherever the market is open that day.

Opening Times

The Condesa Tianguis market is only once a week, on Tuesdays, which made it even more special that I had just happened upon it. The market runs along Pachuca street from Agustín Melgar Calle south to Calle Juan Escutia. They shut this entire road down from traffic for the day, and it feels like it completely transforms the feeling of the neighbourhood. It changes from just another side street to a lively traditional shopping experience. The market opens at 10 am and closes at 5 pm.

The Condesa neighbourhood has always been one of the more upscale districts in Mexico City. Because of this higher class clientele, don’t expect to find the lowest prices here. But even when they are slightly more expensive, it’s still shockingly cheap! I do find the quality of food and produce here to be somewhat above par as well, so you definitely get more bang for your buck!

Some of the most unique things you’ll find here are sold by the older generations of indigenous women. These women grow their own fruits and vegetables on their farms outside the city. Unlike some of the other vendors who might be buying from more commercial business, they are grown by some rural farmers. The women’s smiling faces are enough to bring you right up to their stalls to take a closer look at their fantastic produce.

Produce on Sale

Unlike the supermarkets which seem to carry everything no matter the season, the fruits and vegetables available here change based on the season. The very best products to get each season is as follows:
Summer: Mangoes, Tomatoes and Tomatillos, Corn, avocados, Pitaya
Fall: Corn, Apples, Pumpkin Black sapote, Prickly pear, Passionfruit
Winter: Apples, Pumpkin, criollo avocado, Mamey, Black sapote, Jicama, Prickly pear
Spring: Mamey, Jicama, Passionfruit
Year-Round: Nopales, chillies,

Clothing and Household Goods

These markets sell more than just produce though. You’ll find anything from bras to makeup, kitchen products and more! You really never know what you going to find! It’s a one-stop-shop for locals, no need to go to the grocery store at all. I loved seeing all the different things on offer since it felt like a surprise every time you came upon a new section of the marketplace.

Flowers

The flower sellers were some of my favourite stalls. I timidly asked how much a large bouquet of sunset coloured roses was and was blown away when they asked for only 50 pesos ($3 US). Having an Airbnb, we had the space to decorate it with flowers, and so I bought it up!

When I visited earlier in the day, I was the only foreigner there! Everyone seemed very friendly, and my Spanish went a long way with impressing the locals. Later in the day, when we came back for dinner, we did see a few more foreigners. Still, overall, it really felt like a neighbourhood event with locals going about their daily business.

Walking down the aisles, you’ll be offered fresh-cut fruit samples from various sellers. While most of this time, this is to entice you to buy some whole fruit, I never found any of them to be very pushy in making me buy anything I didn’t want. It was great fun to get to try so many different fruits, some of which I’d never even heard of before. The Mamey fruit was my favourite. It was like a combination between a sweet potato and a peach.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Maritza Ortega (@maritza.moments)

Street Food

One of my favourite things to eat in Mexico city is elote, but here there was something a little different, which was esquite. This dish is similar to elote, but the corn is sauteed with chilli peppers instead of being roasted on the grill. The corn ends up being a little spicer and more straightforward, as it is served without the cheese and mayonnaise. But just as delicious!

Another street food staple is the tlacoyo, fried blue corn cakes stuffed with beans and topped with cheese and nopales. In the early morning, you could really taste how fresh the masa was, most likely being ground that very morning.

Tamales vendors are on either corner outside the market, but the real food can be found in under the white tents. Inside are a dozen or so little food vendors selling tacos, gorditas, flautas and more! Large communal tables are lined with salsas and hot sauce. Grab your favourite dish from any of the vendors and take a seat to see if you can strike up a conversation with your neighbours. One of my favourite things is how inviting the locals are, especially when in a neighbourhood environment. They are so proud and are always so happy to see foreigners visiting.

For dessert, there is nothing better than a cup of fresh fruit. My favourite is the mango, served with chilli and lime. Sweet, salty and spicy! All my favourites flavours!

Fresh Nuts and Candy

If fruits don’t satisfy your sweet tooth, another of my must-buy items are fresh candies and nuts. These brightly coloured products draw your eye in immediately. The gummies are some of the softest and most flavorful I’ve ever tasted! I can not recommend them more. And they each cost only about 20 pesos for a huge bag.

Stumbling upon markets like this is one of the most lovely things about Mexico City. There is always something exciting going on, and even if you’re not looking for it, wonderful places like this just seem to reveal themselves to you!

What has been your favourite moment of happenstance on your last vacation?

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Discover the Amazing Flavours of La Condesa’s Tianguis Market in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.