All along the way, there are so many opportunities for incredible Instagram shots since Mexico City is truly one of the most colourful cities in the entire world. Because let’s face it, we all know those adorable IG snaps are an all-important part of the trip. Steal this itinerary to share with your girlfriends to convince them why Mexico City needs to be at the top of your list of places to go for the Ultimate Bachelorette Trip!

Mexico City Bachelorette Itinerary

1. Why Go to Mexico City?
2. Where to Stay
   • Airbnb in La Condesa | SAVE
   • Casa Decu | STANDARD
   • Sofitel Mexico City Reforma | SPLURGE
3. Four-Day Bachelorette Party in Mexico City Map
4. Day 1 | Arrive and Settle In
   • Hunt for Flowers
5. Day 2 – A Day out for Foodies
   • Filigrana Brunch
   • Mercado Medellín
   • Explore more about Roma 
   • Huerto Roma Verde
   • Take a Cooking Class 
   • DIY Cocktail Tour
6. Sunday – A Day on the Water
   • Panadería Rosetta
   • Xochimilco
   • Restaurante Rosetta Dinner
   • Lucha Libra
7. Day 4 – A Day for the Arts in San Angel & Coyoacán
   • Restaurante El Cardenal
   • Carmen Church of San Ángel
   • Saturday Art Market
   • Art Galleries and Stores
   • Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
   • Coyoacan Market
   • Casa Azul
   • Bazar Artesanal Mexicano
   • Corazón de Maguey

Why Go to Mexico City?

Mexico City has it all. Cheap food, amazing cocktail bars, fun activities, gorgeous museums, awe-inspiring street art, retro architecture and phenomenal culture. This itinerary is for a Mexico City Bachelorette party who are maybe a little more eccentric. And don’t want a cookie-cutter weekend. Throw out ideas of strip clubs and manicures. Replace them with enriching museums, astonishing street food and giddying streets to explore with your friends. There are so many different activities to suit all kinds of brides. But you can intertwine all of them in this itinerary to give all the guests a little bit of everything. Whether they like to party or like a more laid-back weekend, I think Mexico City suits the needs of everyone.

Where to Stay

Airbnb in La Condesa | SAVE

Another wonderful thing about a Mexico City Bachelorette is that there are many different types of accommodations. Options to suit all different price points. A great choice for the savers is to rent an Airbnb in La Condesa. La Condesa is my favourite neighbourhood in the entire city. Here you can rent out entire houses and apartments to host your whole crew. This way, you can all stay together. It’s so fun to use the communal kitchen to make some of your meals. Or just relax in the outdoor spaces at night or in the morning. Soaking up all that amazing Mexico City weather! 

I found this incredible house in La Condesa with seven bedrooms and eleven beds. And it’s just under $300 USD a night. If you came with eight girlfriends, that is less than $40/night per person! Plus, you get all the amenities of having a house! There are many different options with Airbnb, from modern chic to more traditional, historic homes. You can really find the perfect fit to suit your bride-to-be.

USD $300/night (plus cleaning fees)

Casa Decu | STANDARD

If your guests would prefer a hotel, then you should check out the Casa Decu hotel, also in La Condesa. Casa Decu is located inside an old Art Deco building and has quickly become my new favourite hotel in the city. The benefit of hotels are they offer a little bit more privacy and the comfort of not having to clean up for yourself every day. The design of this place is so retro, the amenities are top-notch, and the rooftop breakfast patio is fantastic. They have a huge table under some shade upstairs, perfect to host your group. So you can all eat breakfast together each morning before hitting the streets.

All the rooms, even the most inexpensive, each come with their own mini kitchenette. This way you can keep food your buy along the way in the fridge. But you’ll also have the opportunity to cook a small meal, or just an aperitif before dinner, in the room. Be sure to message the hotel directly to see if they can provide you with additional group promotional rates!

USD $105/night

Sofitel Mexico City Reforma | SPLURGE

If you want to go all out, splurge on a few nights at the Sofitel Mexico City. Located on the famous Paseo de la Reforma, the main avenue in Mexico City. This hotel boasts some of the most fabulous views of the city from the comfort of your hotel room. The hotel is the first luxury French-branded hotel in the city, so you know you’re staying somewhere really special. The chic interiors are fabulous and suit the modern bachelorette aesthetic. Plus, their indoor pool on the 28th floor has one of the most spectacular views of the city. Which is even more incredible at sunset! Bring your girlfriends up here at dusk, and they’ll be so impressed!

USD $270/night

Four-Day Bachelorette Party in Mexico City Map

Day 1 | Arrive and Settle In

The best way to get settled and adjust to the new altitude (Mexico City is, after all, 7,300 feet above sea level) with your girlfriends is a self-guided taco tour. I’ve created this unique taco tour all around La Condesa! This tour lets you explore the neighbourhood while stopping in to try the barrio’s best tacos. Along the way, you can stop and check out whatever your eyes are drawn to. Exploring those little curious corners of the neighbourhood is a great way to work off those tacos, so you’re ready for more!

Hunt for Flowers

As you’re all exploring the neighbourhood for tacos, be sure to go hunting for flowers as well. If you’re travelling as a bridal party, seeking out fresh flowers from the flower carts is the perfect activity! Great practice for the wedding day bouquets. Fresh flowers in Mexico City are so inexpensive and jazz up your Airbnb or Hotel room. In La Condesa, you can simply walk up and down Avenue Amsterdam to find many different vendors. The one across from the Walmart called Flower Jessica (marked on the map above and at the end of the post) is always reliably filled with great flowers! 

Self Made Bouquets

It’s so much fun to grab as many different flowers as your heart delights. Then head back to your hotel’s rooftop patio or communal space to make your own little flower arrangements. It’s a fantastic yet also slightly relaxing activity. Great to do while you adjust to the new time zone and altitude.

“But we don’t have any vases!” you might think. Not to worry! While some stands actually do sell them for cheap, there is another option that is almost free. Just run over to your local Oxxo or 7-Eleven convenience store and buy a few drinks inside glass bottles. Fill your basket up with Topo Chico, Mexican Coke or interesting glass bottles of beer. Get back home and enjoy the refreshing beverages while you make your bouqtes. When you’re done, just pop the flowers into the now empty glass bottles with some fresh water. Easy peasy!

Take it Easy, grab a Churro

While you might be DYING to get out there and grab cocktails, trust me on this one, the altitude can make or break you on your first day! It’s best to take it easy, just on the first day. Especially regarding drinking anything alcoholic. If you’re looking for an evening treat, I advise heading to Churrería El Moro. This churro shop is one of the most popular places in the city. And luckily, they have a few locations so you’re never too far away from one. Grab yourself and your girlfriends a huge tray of churros with their selection of dipping sauces. The perfect sharable delight. In addition to amazing trays of churros, they also sell delicious Mexican hot chocolate. A historical Aztec staple you need to try along the way! Try to take in an early night cause tomorrow we hit the streets!

Day 2 – A Day out for Foodies

Today is all about FOOD! We are going to start the day by going out for Brunch. Brunch in Mexico City is truly world-class! And there are so many different places to go. But if you want to check out my favourites, you can’t go wrong with any of these locations. So if the only I’ve recommended below is booked up there are lots of other options.

Filigrana Brunch

Filigrana is my new favourite brunch spot, so I had to update this list to feature it. Walking inside, you are immediately in awe of the environment. The glass walls allow the beautiful morning sun to filter in, creating rainbows of light on the floor. You are immediately greeted by friendly servers. Before you’ve ever ordered, you are brought out their pastry tray with some of the most inventive, colourful and delicious pastries! I had to try at least once, even though I knew more food was coming. Filigrana specializes in Mexican fusion with dishes that combine various cultures. The tortillas served alongside your meal are made literally on sight. You can watch the tortillas makers at work for some in-house entertainment.

Be sure to sample the licuado de mamey, a smoothie made with the Mexican mamey fruit! Heavenly creamy! For your meal, I highly recommend the tostadas, chilaquiles, and, of course, some delicious freshly made guacamole. Served with those aforementioned fresh tortillas. What is so convenient about Filigrana is that you can make easy reservations in advance on Opentable. Especially if you’re visiting on the weekend with a larger group, reservations are absolutely mandatory! But they’re not too hard to find if you book well enough in advance.

Mercado Medellín

After a filling brunch, it’s time to head over to the Mercado Medellín. This market is a vibrant place to explore in the heart of the trendy Roma Norte neighbourhood. Even the walk you’ll take to get here will awaken all your senses! And the architecture in this colonial barrio is absolutely fantastic.

The market itself is a marvellous place to explore all the dazzling produce native to Mexico. In addition, the market is filled with stores selling salsas, fresh mole, nuts, rainbow-coloured candies, colourful pinatas and more! You can just wander around to your heart’s content. Or follow my self-guided tour to better understand the best things to check out!

Explore more about Roma 

Before our big evening activity, make a point to explore more of the Roma Norte neighbourhood. Roma Norte is known for having the best bar scene, top-class restaurants, incredible street food, and picturesque cafes on every street corner. But the area is also home to some of the best-preserved colonial-era architecture. Every street is plush with greenery and ivy falling off the Juliet balconies above. Wide avenues are home to charming works of art, and the idyllic parks are where locals come to relax.

Although you might not have time to take the entirety of my Roma Walking Tour, I would recommend at least walking up and down some of the side streets around Tepeji street. It’s here where you’ll find the filming location where they shot the Academy Award-nominated movie Roma. These streets are so quiet yet picturesque, so it’s the perfect place to safely wander with your girlfriends.

Huerto Roma Verde

On the way to our next activity, head over to the large intersection at Avenue Yucatan. Across the street, on the east side, you can spot a bright blue column, this giant structure is actually made of old water jugs! This icon marks the monumental entrance to the Huerto Roma Verde. Huerto Roma Verde is a cultural centre made from recovered property once destroyed by the 1985 earthquake. The land was abandoned for 27 years and used as a dumping ground. But Paco Ayala, who initiated the project, saw the 8,000 square feet as an opportunity. He saw the space as a place for regrowth and environmental education through art.

About Huerto Roma Verde

The self-managed community found inside these walls was created by grassroots environmental activists. It began as a small shared vegetable garden. Where residents who lived in small apartments without outdoor space could come and grow their own fresh food. From there, it grew to have a storage tower to collect rainwater, a recycling centre for solid waste and even several farm animals! They aim to focus on sustainability and promote the development of communities integrated into their local environments.

Much of the space is designed to be an urban garden with mind-bending art sculptures created within the living environment. While you can wander the space and appreciate the artworks, you can also stop at the various pop-up businesses. They sell everything from organic cosmetics to vegan desserts and fresh coffee. It’s a fantastic place to do some local shopping!

Take a Cooking Class 

Cooking classes are such wonderful group activities as everyone gets to participate, have some fun and learn more about the culture of the place their visiting. Plus you also get to eat everything you cook! Over at Eat Mexico, they have a cooking class that celebrates Mexico’s food culture and teaches their guests how to master these hundred-year-old recipes. From basic green salsa to corn masa, chicken tinga and papas con chorizo. You’ll learn how to cook nopales, make some chilaquiles and learn more about all the different varieties of Mexican chillies that flavour almost every dish you eat in Mexico.

(Note these classes only run Tues-Friday so plan accordingly.)

Price: $83 USD/ per person

DIY Cocktail Tour

For those who don’t want the night to end, you can safely bar hop along with the Avenida Álvaro Obregón in Roma Norte. Start at Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón, my favourite bar; thanks for their out-of-this-world, skeletal decor! Their cocktail menu is IMMENSE and highlights (as is the name of the bar infers) gin! As the night wears on, a DJ will sometimes play live music. While this can get very loud, if that’s your vibe, you’ll enjoy yourself.

The next place I would head to with my girlfriends is Licorería Limantour, just a few doors down. This place is a legendary cocktail bar in Mexico City which some of the most clever drinks & snacks in a chic environment, complete with a gorgeous terrace. Sitting here on a hot night, enjoying a cool breeze, is a fantastic way to while away an evening.

Hanky Panky

If you still are craving some more entertainment, walk or uber up to the northern part of Roma Norte to Hanky Panky Speakeasy. Be sure you book a reservation at this place in advance, as it’s the only way to get in if you’re not a member. Speakeasies have had a resurgence all over the world in the past few years, and this one is perhaps the most fun to discover. The place looks like nothing more than a small taco shop when you arrive. But on the right is a large fridge that juts suspiciously far out from the wall…

Once you provide your reservation details to the man behind the counter, he will open up the beer fridge and usher you inside. He closes the door behind you, and you’ll think the worst for a moment as you are plunged into darkness. But then, another door opens in front of you, and you enter into the chic, deliciously vibey atmosphere of the hidden bar inside. Drinks cost around $160-$220 pesos, which is more than reasonable considering the incredible drama of the place! It’s a delightfully fun experience for those who want to impress and awe their friends. Keep the details of this stop a secret, and the bride will be impressed with your discovery!

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Sunday – A Day on the Water

Panadería Rosetta

After what was no doubt a late late night, eating is the only real way to cure a hangover! And set you right for the day ahead. One of my other favourite laid-back brunch restaurants in Mexico City is Panderia Rossetta. This incredible bakery in Roma Norte is a hot spot every morning, no matter the time of day. And there is good reason for this, aside from its spectacular appearance. The pastries baked fresh daily are some of the most inventive, delicious and mouthwateringly beautiful creations. Their guava pastry is one of their most popular options.

Although there is seating outside, you might need to wait a while, depending on how busy it is. Luckily, if you’re staying in the area, you can get a whole selection of parties and coffees to bring back for a laid-back taste test at home. 

Alternatively, I recommend bringing your haul to the nearby Plaza Río de Janeiro. This incredibly beautiful park is encircled by some of the city’s most gorgeous art deco and colonial architecture. It is a wonderful place to enjoy a morning coffee and pastry in the sun. If you’re lucky, you might also have some street food vendors pass you by to top off your breakfast with some fresh tamales or fresh fruit cups!

Xochimilco

After loading up on carbs and recovering from the night before, it’s time to head out to one of the most interesting, vibrant and culturally significant places just outside Mexico City; Xochimilco. Xochimilco is known as the Venice of Mexico. Xochimilco consists of over 170 kilometers of canals spread across the southern part of Mexico City. The word “Xochimilco” means “Floating Gardens,” as this was where the ancient Aztecs created a network of artificial agricultural plots. These garden plots are called chinampas, land rich in minerals, where flowers and a variety of fruits and veggies grow in abundance. Xochimilco is now considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site as it preserves this Aztec technology.

Where is Xochimilco

Xochimilco is about 45 minutes south of the city. You can easily book an Uber to drive you to and from the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas Xochimilco. This is the ONLY place you should arrive to get onto your Trajineras. There are TONS of bike people who might stop you on the way into town saying this place is closed, but it’s not. It’s a common scam to get people to access a different dock with much higher prices. Just tell your driver to ignore them, and push onto your destination.

Trajineras

One of the most iconic aspects of a trip on the canals today are riding inside the neon painted Trajineras. These brightly coloured boats float up and down the canals and today can be rented out by individuals or groups to enjoy the beauty of the canals. They have flat bottoms and float throughout the canals with nothing more than a long wooden ore controlled by your rower, just like a gondolier. In the center of the boat is a large table, and there are about a dozen chairs on either side, so you can have an entire group ride on the same boat! The covered roof is perfect for keeping the sun off during hot days, but if you want to sit out in the sunlight, the front of the boat has ample room.

The boats are vibrantly painted to resemble the flowers that grew on either side of the canals hundreds of years ago. Each boat is given a different name; you might not know that if you know who to call, you can have your name painted on a boat just for you when you arrive. This is perfect for your bride as you can even get it named after her!

How to Rent a Boat

Getting a Trajinera inexpensively isn’t something you should expect when coming to Xochimilco. This isn’t one of those super budget-friendly excursions. The maximum rate set by the city is 500 pesos per hour, per boat (not per person as some tricky boatmen might quote you). You can try and haggle your way down, but unless you have a good grasp of Spanish haggling, you’ll find it difficult to get the rides any cheaper than 400-450 pesos per hour.

2-hours is the minimum I would go for since it takes a while for them to get the boats out of the dock, and an hour would barely get you out into the canals far enough to see the real Xochimilco. I would honestly say I wish we’d gone out for longer! Plus, the longer you go, the better your chance of striking a deal! Remember to tip your boatman at the end of the trip, most of the money you pay goes to his boss, and the driver sees little of that price, so a nice tip will go a long way for them.

Group Tours to Xochimilco

You can easily book a group tour if you’d rather not deal with all these details yourself. This takes all the organization out of your hands and lets you enjoy yourself without needing to be at the wheel. My favourite site to book these tours lately has been Airbnb experiences. I find their prices the most competitive and don’t include too many extras you don’t need. These tours are great as the guides help explain sights along the way and usually include a bit of food! 

You are allowed to bring whatever food and drinks you want with you to the Trajineras. I always recommend stopping by your local convenience stores to load up on some neat snacks and a few drinks. Depending on what day of the week you visit will change what’s open (the weekdays tend to have fewer stalls and sellers open than the weekends). But there’s always something to buy on land and on the water. That’s right, there’s food available throughout the canals as you travel. Vendors with roasted corn, coconut water, tacos, cold beer and freshly made micheladas float up and down the canals. The prices are more than you’d pay in the market, but you pay for the privilege of having them coming right to your boat!

Restaurante Rosetta Dinner

After coming home, it’s probably time for everyone to enjoy a bit of a nap after a hot day out on the water. If you feel like you’d like a gorgeous dinner tonight, I would recommend reservations at Restaurante Rosetta. This stunning eatery is located inside an old villa and is literally dripping, inside and out, with greenery. The menu is unique and creative and is a fusion of traditional Mexican dishes with modern, international ingredients. It’s such a gorgeous interior you’ll be absolutely transported both by the food and the decor.

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Lucha Libra

If your crew is the adventurous type, just down the street is the Arena México, where you can catch a Lucha Libre show almost every day of the week! Lucha Libre is Mexican Wrestling and even if you aren’t even the slightest bit of a wrestling or sports fan, going to these shows is soooo much fun. We’ve gone both with a tour group and on our own, and it’s a blast either way. Going on your own is much cheaper, as tickets are only about $25 USD but going with the group is a wonderful experience for first-timers. They teach you all about the sport’s history and why it has become such an important part of the Mexican identity.

Everywhere you go in Mexico City, you’ll see Lucha masks for sale and everything from t-shirts to souvenir magnets with famous wrestlers on them. So it’s good to find out what this is all about. It’s a fun group activity as it gets everyone talking. Even if you don’t speak a lick of Spanish, it’s so much fun to try to interpret the storylines and the moves and just sit back and be in awe of the absolute madness and amazing physical prowess this real athlete put on display!

Day 4 – A Day for the Arts in San Angel & Coyoacán

Our last day in Mexico City is about immersing ourselves in the city’s most artistic areas of the city; San Angel and Coyoacan. This is where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera spent more of their lives and careers. The entire neighbourhood is steeped in vibrant creativity. We’ll start the day in San Angel, exploring the brilliant colonial architecture and amazing art scene, and then uber over to nearby Coyoacan, where we can walk in the footsteps of Frida Kahlo. San Angel is famous for its Saturday Art Market. But if you choose to arrive here on any other day, you’ll still find the neighbourhood to be an incredible place to find wonderful works of art!

Restaurante El Cardenal

Head to the best breakfast spot in San Angel, Restaurante El Cardenal, to start your morning. Restaurante El Cardenal is an institution in Mexico City that was founded in 1969! At El Cardenal, you can come and feel like you’re dining at your mother’s table. Their location in San Ángel is located inside an old colonial mansion and the gorgeous architecture make eating here a luxurious experience.

To start the perfect breakfast, begin with hot chocolate, not coffee! Their unique hot chocolate is made with famous Doña Oliva chocolate and is like drinking a cup of history. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico and was an essential part of the Aztec culture from 1400 AD. My favourite part about the experience of eating here was the pastry tray. When you come inside, a waiter brings you over an enormous tray of sweet pastries. And you can choose, with your own eyes, which pastry you want to start the meal right with. I went with the concha as I feel like it’s the perfect pairing with a hot chocolate. The rest of the menu is filled with traditional Mexican brunch options and honestly you can’t go wrong with any of them!

Carmen Church of San Ángel

As we make our way west towards the Plaza San Jacinto, quickly stop inside the old Carmelite church, just across from the restaurant. The church was built here in 1615 and it features some amazing Herrerian architecture. The courtyard makes for a wonderful photo op as you are surrounded by incredible Puebla tiles, fantastical domed rooms and beautiful greenery. Even if your group isn’t super religious, I love stopping in here just to admire the marvellous architecture and baorque art.

Walking into the church, the restrained architecture surrounding you highlights the incredible golden altar. Light frames the altar from either side, creating the most ethereal glow. While the rest of the building might be simpler in design, the altarpiece is pure baroque. Drama, glamour and gilding are everything that the baroque era brought, and we can see it here in leaps and spurts! Since today is all about art, this is a great spot to make a quick stop.

Saturday Art Market

If you come to San Angel on the weekend, you’ll be graced with the amazing Saturday Art Market. It is by far the most popular event in the area. The art on sale is both meant for the locals to enjoy as well as the tourists. Found on easels and leaning against the walls are works of art highlighting the beauty of the Mexican landscape and their vibrant culture. There were so many amazing artists of all different styles and mediums. 

In addition to paintings, this Plaza is also home to craftspeople. Here you can find artisan pottery, textiles and even clothing. While some of it is a bit touristy, there are also unique designers and artists. Prices tend to be a little more expensive here in San Angel, but the quality matches the cost. This is a great market to find some amazing souvenirs to bring home!

Art Galleries and Stores

If you opt to visit San Angel on any other day than Saturday, you can still find many handicraft shops open around the square throughout the week. They keep the spirit of the art market alive throughout the week. Shops like the Bazar San Ángel, María Bonita and Local México sell gorgeous handmade decor and art pieces for your home. The spirit of the art market lives on long past the weekend, so don’t feel like you’ll have missed it all if you can only visit during the week. Maria Bonita sells amazing pieces of art made by Mexican artists at very affordable prices. Their store is also a joy to walk through and feels absolutely transporting.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo

Wander through the back alleys of San Angel, north towards the incredible Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. This amazing feat of architecture was where Diego Rivera worked and lived alongside his wife, Frida Kahlo. The two homes are connected via the large walkway on the top floor. The entire design of the homes is symbolic of their love. So it really makes for a great stop for a future bride!

The museum leads you through both houses to see their studios, living spaces and a gorgeous rooftop view across the neighbourhood of San Angel. You can read our full guide here to get a complete guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The house doesn’t take much time to explore, but the incredible architecture is worth seeing. Plus, if you’re a fan of Frida and Diego, this peeks into their private lives is unrivalled.

Coyoacan Market

By now, you’re no doubt starting to get hungry, so it’s time to hop into an Uber and head over to Coyacano. Start your introduction to Coyoacan outside the famous Mercado de Coyoacán! This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s more than one building pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s. But the original, much smaller marketplace was where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

El Jardín del Pulpo

Before entering the market’s interior, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden, ‘where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food, you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster and langostino. You MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Tostadas Coyoacan 

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadas Coyoacan! The lines can get pretty long at lunchtime, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up, even at the busiest time of day.

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

Casa Azul

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, married, and even died. She lived there with her husband, Diego Rivera, and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artist’s retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon. It’s very important to book these tickets in advance, especially for a large group.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house, you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel deeply connected with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps. The best part for a group of gals is Frida’s personal wardrobe that features pieces from the fashion icon. This is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself. 

Bazar Artesanal Mexicano

If you’re travelling with a group of ladies, there is no doubt some shopping needs to be done! Just outside of the main square in Coyoacan is the Bazar Artesanal Mexicano. Inside the arched red gates, you step into a small courtyard always adorned with a myriad of artisanal decor. Throughout the two levels of tiny stalls crammed into different corners, you’ll find everything from traditional Mexican clothing complete with gorgeous embroideries, artisanal jewellery, various handicrafts, and pretty much everything you could want for souvenirs. 

The benefit of this artisan market is that it is on the small side but still has everything you could want. This means it’s a little less overwhelming, and you can more easily find what you’re looking for without. Plus, the prices here are slightly lower than in the more touristy Artisan Market outside the Historical Centre in the central city.

Corazón de Maguey

To end the day, make reservations at the Corazón de Maguey. This restaurant in the heart of Coyoacan is an absolute feast for the eyes and the stomach. Walking into the lively cantina, you’re overwhelmed by the bright red walls trimmed in myriad traditional Mexican kitchen implements used for decoration. Huge glass jugs used to store mezcal are stacked around the room, used almost as room dividers. 

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The restaurant specializes in traditional Mexican food served in HUGE portions. My recommendation is to order a whole bunch of different dishes and just share them between the entire table. It’s a great place to try out any food you didn’t get a chance to sample yet. Everything from red mole to beef tongue, stuffed chile ancho peppers, Oaxacan cheese and handmade tortillas are just some of the amazing dishes on the menu. Honestly, it’s one of the most stunning restaurants and the perfect place to end an action packed Mexico City Bachelorette trip!

I hope you enjoyed this Mexico City Bachelorette itinerary! I think this is indeed the perfect combination of activities to entertain everyone. Let me know in the comment where your favourite location of a Bachelorette has been or if you’re planning on hosting your own Mexico City Bachelorette!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

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Romance in Mexico City

1. Xochimilco Canals
2. One-in-a-Lifetime Dinner at Pujol
3. Colourful Street of Coyoacan
4. Sunset at the Torre Latinoamericana
5. Rent a Paddle Boat in Chapultepec Park
6. Alameda de Santa María la Ribera
7. Paseo de Reforma on Sundays
8. Picnic in Parque Mexico
9. Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Xochimilco Canals

The canals of Xochimilco, just outside of Mexico City, are a sight to behold. The historic landmark is over 450 years old and is still used as an essential source for agriculture. The canals are filled with chinampas, floating gardens that have been growing food since pre-Hispanic times. These chinampas were initially created to grow crops on dry land using the water from Lake Xochimilco.

But today, they primarily serve as recreation areas where people enjoy boat rides and fresh produce. The canals of Xochimilco are an iconic representation of Mexico City’s history, culture, and natural beauty. If you’re looking for a tranquil place to visit while in Mexico City, be sure to stop by this historical spot!

One-in-a-Lifetime Dinner at Pujol

Nothing is quite as romantic as a dinner at Pujol. When it comes to having the perfect date night this is the place to go! This famous restaurant has been labelled by many as one of the best restaurants in the world. It made the top 10 in 2021! The creator, Chef Enrique Olvera, is still one of the most influential chefs in the world.

His style is all about layering flavours and surprising tastes from his native country. The dishes are made from fresh, local ingredients sourced from small producers. The Pujol experience is about discovery and exploration. A gastronomical and sensorial journey and one you and your partner will never forget!

Colourful Street of Coyoacan

If you’re looking for someplace to get away from it all – even if it’s just for a little while – head to Coyoacan. Coyoacan is one of those gems where the city feels like it hasn’t changed in 100 years. It is filled with beautiful architecture, quaint street markets, and the most delicious Mexican food in the world! There’s no better way to experience the area than by wandering through these streets hand in hand with someone you love.

My favourite thing to do in Coyoacan is walking down Avenue Francisco Sosa to the Chapel of Santa Catarina. This quaint yet beautiful church is situated in this great plaza always decorated with festive papier piccolo. I have never been wandering here and not seen a couple wrapped in an embrace here. There is just something about this spot that seems to evoke romance. Jump across the street and into the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This picturesque house sits inside this unbelievably fantastic garden which is totally open to the public. It’s really the perfect place for a romantic date.

Sunset at the Torre Latinoamericana

The Torre Latinoamericana is located in the heart of Mexico city’s Historic Centre. The building offers a 360-degree panorama of the city and its skyline. On of the upper levels, you’ll find restaurant Miralto. The dining room features unparalleled views across the city. Although it has one of the best pieces of real estate, the prices here are shockingly reasonable. While the views are always amazing, you should book a table in advance to be here just before the sunset to get the most romantic atmosphere here. Arriving just before the evening means that as you enjoy your meal, you’ll be able to catch the absolutely unforgettable sunset across the valley.

Rent a Paddle Boat in Chapultepec Park

Chapultepec Park is one of the largest city parks in Latin America. It’s located just west of Mexico City’s downtown area. It houses many attractions, including museums, monuments, a zoo, and an amusement park. On the northern edge of Chapultepec Park, you will find a small lake where locals come to pass the time and cool off on hot days. Visitors can rent boats or rowboats on Chapultepec Lake and enjoy the park’s natural beauty from their own private boat.

These small boats give visitors a chance to explore the lake up close, away from all the noise around it. Paddleboats are a great way to explore Chapultepec Park and get close to the one you love. If you come during the Jacaranda season, the entire lake is surrounded by purple blossoms, one of the most spectacular sights you’ll ever see!

Alameda de Santa María la Ribera

Santa María la Ribera is a northern neighbourhood of Mexico City where the local flare is still as strong as ever. The community is just on the verge of gentrification. Although things are still rough, the streets are pouring with history and authenticity. On Sunday, the neighbourhood seems to all come out to the plaza surrounding the famous Kiosco Morisco.

The Alameda de Santa María is the meeting point for dancers on Sunday afternoons. They will be seen dancing to cumbia music. Cumbia is a musical rhythm and traditional folk dance from Colombia but popular here in Mexico City. While the dancer is mainly elderly couples, they are more than willing to encourage you to join in. You can also just sit and watch on the sidelines. Watching the love that these elderly people still exude towards each other through dance is genuinely such a romantic way to spend an afternoon.

Paseo de Reforma on Sundays

There is something really romantic about trying something new together. Unless you’re an avid cyclist, many of us haven’t been on a bike in years. There is something about hopping on that bike that makes you feel like a kid again, and cruising along seems to evoke that childish glee. Something fantastic to share with those you love. On Sundays, in Mexico City, the Paseo de Reforma is closed down to automobile traffic to allow cyclists, scooters, and pedestrians to take over. The street is one of the most important in the city. It is dotted with incredible statues, architecture and sights along the way. You can rent a bike or even get one free at the government-sponsored booths.

If biking isn’t your thing, you can also rent a scooter to cruise along the broad avenues. But if you’d rather keep both feet on the ground, you can simply walk along the street. A street which is often unbearable loud from the traffic is suddenly one of the city’s most picturesque and peaceful jaunts. On either side of the road, vendors pop up where you can sample some incredible street food or shop at one of the many local artisans. A perfect afternoon date.

Picnic in Parque Mexico

One of the most romantic places in the city has got to be the Parque Mexico in the centre of La Condesa. The park stands today was the former site of the horse race track of the Jockey Club de México. Today the enormous green space is home to dozens of architecturally beautiful benches nestled into the forest. You can always find dozens of young couples here, escaping the prying eyes of their family, kissing under the palm trees.

The Teatro al Aire Libre Lindbergh (Lindbergh Open Air Theater) is the central hub of the park. It features these great five monumental pillars and is surrounded by a winding pergola that is almost blooming with bright fuchsia flowers. The theatre is often home to neighbourhood soccer games and always a space for the cutest dogs! In 2020 park also became home to a new AudioRama. Here, you can sit in one of the many comfortable swinging chairs and listen to the music piped through the park meant for relaxation, meditation and enjoyment of the public. An excellent spot for your loved one and you to have a peaceful cuddle.

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

The colourful Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela is the best place to shop for sourvenirs in Mexico City. But it is also one of the most exciting and vibrant places to explore. A really romantic and exciting date idea is actually to split up…at least for an hour. I actually mean that they give each other a tiny budget, say $500 peso ($25 USD) and spend an hour looking for something inside the marketplace to gift each other.

It’s so fun to explore the market, especially finding something to impress your loved one. It makes you look at each item from a different perspective, and you will be so surprised at what you’ll find along the way. My husband loves wrestling and was able to find some really unique t-shirts designed by local artists that were inspired by retro Lucha Libre posters. He still wears those shirts all the time, and it always makes me fondly remember our first trip to Mexico City.

Let me know in the comments where your favourite Romantic spots are in Mexico City!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Most Romantic Places to See in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Where to Stay in Mexico City

1. La Condesa
2. Centro Histórico or Historic Centre
3. Zona Rosa / Colonia Juárez
4. San Rafael
5. Reforma / Juarez
6. Colonia Roma / La Roma
7. Coyoacan
8. Polanco
9. Areas to Avoid

Quick Reference Guide

La Condesa – Best neighbourhood for Cafes and Green Spaces
Historic Centre – Best neighbourhood for History Buffs
Zona Rosa – Best neighbourhood for Nightlife
San Rafael – Best neighbourhood for Theatre Lovers
La Reforma – Best neighbourhood for Modern Architecture
La Roma – Best neighbourhood for Foodies
Coyoacan – Best neighbourhood for a Community Atmosphere
Polanco – Best neighbourhood for High-End Shops and Luxury Goods

La Condesa

La Condesa is one of the trendiest neighbourhoods in Mexico City, and it is my absolute favourite place to stay. Condesa is located just southeast of Chapultepec Park. This hip neighbourhood is where you can find some of the best cafes and restaurants. But the real draw for me of this neighbourhood is the green spaces. The area is also known as the “lungs of the city,” with lush parks and tree-lined avenues around every corner. Parque México and Parque España both have beautifully landscaped gardens and fountains. They make for the best little escape from the rest of the world.

The architecture around here is phenomenal, with the largest collections of Art Deco buildings after Miami. On Sundays, the streets of Condesa come alive with live music and street vendors. A large portion of Condesa is residential with many beautiful apartment buildings and single-family homes. This allows the neighbourhood to feel like a little community and not just as a touristy area. The family atmosphere also means it is a safe place to stay. Important for first-time visitors to feel comfortable.

Sights Nearby: Parque España, Parque México, Chapultepec Castle, Museo Nacional de Antropología
Cafes/Restaurants: Cardinal Coffee House, El Moro, Lardo, Condesa Tianguis

Top Hotel for Great Amenities: Maria Condesa Hotel $$

Maria Condesa is a great mid-range option in La Condesa. The location is great, right in the heart of the La Condesa art deco area. The rooms are super stylish, and the suites come with a street view and walk-in saunas. A huge perk to staying here would be the restaurant on the terrace.

Top Hotel for a Home Away from Home: Casa Dovela $$$

Casa Dovela is a Boutique-House featuring contemporary duplexes and a beautiful one-bedroom suite. It’s a cross between a luxury home and a boutique hotel located along the art-deco streets of Condesa. The original building was left abandoned after the 1985 earthquake-like so many other residences in Condesa. But seeing its developmental potential, the hotel owners snapped it up.

They nabbed it just as the revitalization of Condesa was starting to take place. Aspects of the original architecture were preserved, but many parts of the building were modernized for aesthetics and comfort. Staying here in the heart of the neighbourhood, with a playground you can see from your window, you feel embedded into the community. Just outside your front door, a market pops up on Tuesdays where you can buy fresh produce and cook it up right at home.

Centro Histórico or Historic Centre

The historic center of Mexico City is located in the city’s heart. It is home to many of the country’s most popular tourist attractions. The historic centre was designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1987. It covered an area of about 450 hectares. Inside you’ll find the main plaza or Zocalo, along with all of its historical buildings. You can spend days exploring this neighbourhood without getting bored! The main downside to staying inside the historic centre is also the reason it’s such a wonderful place to stay. And that’s all the attractions, and therefore all the toursits.

Although being located close to all the historical sights gives you lots to do, it does feel like staying inside an amusement park. And when the sun goes down, the side streets are dead quiet as no locals live in the area. It is mainly a shopping and tourist district. Getting in and out of the area is also slightly problematic as many streets are closed to vehicle traffic. Which again is a huge plus when you are walking around but a downside when you arrive in a taxi with your luggage. So just be prepared to be dropped off a few streets away from your hotel and walk over to your destination.

Sights Nearby: Metropolitan Cathedral, National Palace, Templo Mayor, Alameda Central, Torre Latinoamericana
Cafes/Restaurants: Pastelería Ideal, Azul Histórico, LA OPERA, Dulcería de Celaya 

Best Hotel for History Lovers: Gran Hotel Ciudad De Mexico $$$

The Gran Hotel Ciudad De Mexico is a 5-star hotel with elegant rooms and a great location bordering Zocalo square. Some of the rooms even have a view of the large square. The highlight of the hotel is the grandiose Tiffany stained glass ceiling. It looms over you as you enter framed by the art deco wrought irons balconies that surround the lobby. You can soak in the splendour while sipping a coffee inside the lobby cafe. This is the perfect luxury option in a prime location. The hotel also offers a fabulous terrace restaurant overlooking the square if you didn’t get a room with a view.

Best Hotel for a Budget: Hampton Inn & Suites Mexico City $

If you’re looking for a budget version of the Gran Hotel, look no further than the Hampton Inn & Suites. The hotel is located inside a beautifully restored historic building complete with architectural styling dating back to the 1800s. Inside you’ll find simple yet comfortable and spacious rooms with modern conveniences. Like the Gran Hotel Ciudad, this hotel also features a six-storey atrium with a stained glass ceiling. Albeit not as impressive, it is nevertheless a stunning addition to welcome you inside.

Zona Rosa / Colonia Juárez

The Zona Rosa (Pink Zone) is located on the south side of Paseo de la Reforma Avenue. Found between Insurgentes Avenue and Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas. The area saw great expansion during the rise of Porfiriato. The Porfiriato is the time period between the late 19th and early 20th centuries when General Porfirio Díaz ruled. The previously poor neighbourhood was transformed into an elegant community.

Today, the Zona Rosa is renowned for its nightlife. It’s a favourite place for tourists due to the wide variety of venues in just a few blocks. It is a place where one can find many bars, dance clubs and restaurants. This area has also become important for the gay community of the city. Found in this part of town are many gay-friendly bars and discos. This is definitely the place to stay for those who enjoy the nightlife!

Sights Nearby: Mercado de Artesanías, The Angel of Independence, Glorieta de La Palma, Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela
Cafes/Restaurants: Chiquitito Café, Café Nin, La Casa de Toño, Tacos de Canasta de La Abuela

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Best Hotel to Feel Safe Cozy and Safe: Hotel Casa González $

Hotel Casa González has been operating inside the Zona Rosa for almost 100 years! The current owner’s grandfather built the two original homes in the mid-1920s. They were later joined together to create this unique hotel. As the hotel is located in front of the English Embassy, and just one block from the American Embassy, the area is frequented by local police officers. This is a great place to stay if you want to feel very safe. When you step through the tall gates entering the hotel, you are met with a secret garden oasis. A courtyard filled with trees and climbing vines where you’ll feel like you never want to leave. The rooms are very simple, yet each one has its own charming decor, making you feel right at home. The breakfast room is the best part where you feel like dining inside abuelas kitchen.

Best Hotel for Swimmers: Hotel Carlota $$

Hotel Carlota is an affordable boutique hotel was built inside an old house. It transformed the interior space to honour Mexico City. A city filled with culture, design, art, memories and modernity. The rooms are stylish, and the entire hotel has an indoor/outdoor open-air floor plan. Stepping out of your room, you can look down at the amazing pool below. Perfect for those hot, humid days.

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San Rafael

Just north of the Zona Rosa is the San Rafael neighbourhood. The area features beautiful colonial architecture, 19th-century mansions and art deco apartment buildings. San Rafael was once known as the “Broadway of Mexico,” where you’d find live music and performances. Today you can still see various mid-century theatres and art galleries popping up all over the place. This area is a great place to stay if you want to remain close to the Historic Centre while not being overwhelmed by the tourists. Here you can still feel that local sense of community.

Sights Nearby: Teatro Aldama, Teatro Mexico, Museo Nacional de la Revolución, The National Museum of San Carlos, Skulls & Art Exhibition
Cafes/Restaurants: LA TALAVERA, Tacos de Canasta de La Abuela, Pakaá, Restaurante y Banquetes El Sol

Best Hotel for Environmentalists: El Patio 77 $

El patio 77 is the first eco-friendly B&B in Mexico City! The hotel is located inside a 19th-century house that has been converted into eight unique suites. Each suite has its own design, inspired by Mexico City’s cultural and artistic heritage. The heart of the house is the courtyard, where you can dine on Mexican cuisine with other hotel guests. Since the boutique hotel is so small, book in advance, as the rooms book up quick!

Reforma / Juarez

Mexico City’s Reforma neighbourhood is located in the Benito Juarez borough. It is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Mexico City, and yet it is also one of the most modern. It is considered almost like the Times Square of Mexico City. The streets in this area are straight and wide, which gives this area an air of sophistication. On either side of the road, you’ll stare up, up and up. Looking in awe at the amazing glass works of modern architecture. The beauty of staying in the Reforma / Juarez district is you have easy access to all the most popular neighbourhoods like; Centro Historico, Polanco, Roma, and Condesa.

The grand Paseo de La Reforma, which dominates the area, is lined with monuments and some of the most unbelievable modern architecture found anywhere in the city. On Sundays, the entire street is closed to motorists and is used by pedestrians and cyclists. Street vendors come out along with artisans selling arts and crafts on blankets on the sidewalk. It feels like a bustling festival that explodes onto the street every week!

Sights Nearby: Cafetería El Péndulo Zona Rosa, Mercado de Artesanías, Museo del Chocolate
Cafes/Restaurants: Churrería El Moro, Café Nin, Helena, La Casa de Toño

Best Hotel for a View: Sofitel Mexico City Reforma $$$

The new Sofitel Mexico City Reforma is the perfect place to indulge in a decidedly chic experience. This hotel combines the essence of Mexican culture with the spirit of French Art de Vivre. Ideally located on Paseo De La Reforma, it was one of this city’s first luxury hotels. Inside their contemporary and stylish suites, you get breathtaking views of the city and the famous Angel of Independence monument.

Best Hotel for the Breakfast Buffet: NH Collection Mexico City Reforma $

NH Collection Mexico City Reforma is a wonderful hotel at a great price in the centre of the Reforma neighbourhood. Even the largest and most prestigious rooms, come at a reasonable price! The Family suites and Terrace rooms all have their own private balconies, which look out onto the city below. If you are looking for the best start to your day, there is no better thing than their breakfast buffet. There are so many options your eyes might think to deceive you. Freshly made eggs, Mexican pastries, all kinds of fresh-made juices, sweets and meats and more!

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Colonia Roma / La Roma

Colonia Roma also called La Roma, (or simply Roma), is one of the trendiest neighbourhoods in Mexico City. The Colonia was designed as an upper-class neighbourhood in the early twentieth century. But after the 1985 Mexico City earthquake, the district quickly became a lower-class slum. No one seemed to want to take on its redevelopment right after the quake.

In the early 2000s, restaurant owners moved into the cheap rental units in the area. And slowly they began to revitalize the district. What these entrepreneurs found were some of the most architecturally stunning buildings in the city. Over the last 20 years, it has become once more one of the most upscale areas of the city. And with the best food found anywhere! If you’re a foodie, this needs to be your home base!

Walking around the neighbourhood in the daytime, you can admire the tranquil, ivy-draped historic homes. Browse the eclectic shops and art galleries. But with the setting of the sun, you’ll find the most unique nightlife. Be sure not to miss the traditional food vendors which pop up all over the streets at night. Their brightly painted signs and delicious-smelling food wafting all along the streets.

Sights Nearby: Goodbye Folk Vintage Boutique, Pushkin Garden, Cine Tonalá
Cafes/Restaurants: Lalo!, Taquería Álvaro Obregón, Mercado Roma, Panadería Rosetta

Best Hotel for the Avant Guard: Brick Hotel $$$

Brick Hotel is a fantastic example of how the Roma combines the Old World enchantment of Mexico city with fresh, contemporary energy. The Brick Hotel was originally a 20th-century mansion designed in the classic Belle Époque style. They transformed the rooms into an authentic and avant-garde boutique hotel with 17 ultra-stylish and modern rooms.

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Best Hotel for Oasis Living: Ignacia Guest House $$$

Ignacia Guest House is truly one of the best secrets hidden in Roma Norte. Under the purple blossoms of the Jacaranda tree lining the streets, you will be welcomed home. The house was originally an old 20th-century mansion that has been transformed into just six elegant suites. Since there are so few rooms, everyone who stays here feels like family.

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Each suite is designed in a different colour, blending history and Mexican artisan tradition with contemporary design. In fact, Ignacia Guest House has been internationally acclaimed for its interior design, architecture, and restoration. During the day, guests can abandon their daily routine and enjoy the historical details, gardens, and spaces. In the morning, they can have breakfast at the communal tables or in the garden under an orange tree. Book well in advance as the rooms are highly coveted by anyone in the know who visits Mexico City.

Coyoacan

Coyoacan is a southern suburb of Mexico City. It is known for its colourful historic center, which has preserved much of its colonial-era architecture. The district was an independent Aztec town before the Spanish conquest in 1521. And being located away from the centre the neighbourhood remained largely undeveloped until the 20th century. There is a slowness to this part of town which I love. A restful atmosphere that contrasts the explosive energy of Mexico City’s business district. This is where I always come to relax. To make my way to their various parks and gardens to read or paint. Whiling away the sunny days under the umbrellas of chic cafes and fantastic restaurants.

This was also the neighbourhood where Frida Kahlo was born and died. It was also where she lived with her husband, Diego Rivera. Frida’s fingerprint is embedded into the essence of this part of town. And her colourful and creative personality is reflected on every street corner and plaza you visit.

Sights Nearby: Plaza Jardin Hidalgo, Coyoacan Market, Frida Kahlo Museum, Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Cafes/Restaurants: LOS AMANTES Café & Bistro, Cafe El Jarocho, Café Avellaneda, Mesón Antigua

Best Hotel for a Peaceful Getaway: Casa Jacinta Guest House $$

One of my favourite parts about staying in Coyaocan is that there aren’t any large hotels. Instead, you have a wide selection of fantastical Guest Houses to choose from. Steps away from the famous Café El Jarocho coffee shop is the Casa Jacinta Guest House. This old traditional house has 11 rooms of different sizes, a haven of serenity and beautiful traditional Mexican decoration. The ivy-covered balconies, brightly tiled bathrooms and peaceful gardens transport you to a bygone time. Book a room that opens up on the ground floor into the lush, green garden for an extra special treat. Stepping out to that view every morning is the best way to start your day.

Best Hotel for a Home away from Home: H21 Hospedaje Boutique $$

Just off of the central Plaza Jardin Hidalgo is the H21 Hospedaje Boutique Hotel. The house, now a hotel, was originally built in 1928. It was remodelled into a Mexican-contemporary style that will delight all those that pass through the doors. Their suites also feature a living room, sofa and kitchen. Making it the best place to stay for a longer vacation where you can truly feel at home. Venture out to the colourful Coyoacan Market and bring home some fresh fruits, veggies and meat. Try and test your hand at a home-cooked meal! If you don’t want to do any cooking on your vacation, book one of their terrace rooms. Here you can sit outside in your own private outdoor space sipping on michelada and mescals.

Polanco

Located in the northwest and above the Bosque de Chapultepec, Polanco is an upscale residential and business district. The leafy side streets are dotted with Spanish Colonial Revival mansions and luxe apartments. At the same time, the main drags are filled with luxury brands and upscale international restaurants. As it is one of the most expensive areas in the city, Polanco is also very safe. So this neighbourhood would be ideal for families planning to visit Mexico City. Be prepared to spend a pretty penny in this area! But for those looking for extravagance, you’ve come to the right place!

Sights Nearby: Xinú Perfumes, Parque Lincoln, Bosque de Chapultepec, Museo Nacional de Antropología
Cafes/Restaurants: Pujol, Dulce Patria, Rosa Negra, ENO, Boicot Café Polanco,

Best Hotel for Architecture Buffs: Camino Real Polanco Mexico $$

The Camino Real Polanco is a beautiful hotel/museum designed by renowned architect Ricardo Legorreta. The space opened its doors to the public on July 25th, 1968. When it opened it was famous for combining modern features with shapes clearly reminiscent of prehispanic pyramids. Elements from these merge together to create an architectural masterpiece! There is something so nostalgic about the 60’s decor, which is so atmospheric. Plus, as it is not a high-end luxury hotel, the rooms come at a reasonable price for the area! If you have a little more cash to spend, book one of the suites as the retro decor is incredible. The view out towards the best architectural features of the hotel is wonderfully highlighted.

Bets Hotel for Interior Design: Orchid House Polanco $$$

Nothing feels more like Mexican royalty than a stay at the Orchid House Polanco. The Orchid House provides visitors with the exquisite feeling of being at home with the comforts of a hotel. Hidden away inside a 100-year-old mansion, the hotel is filled with blue and coloured stained glass, antique barro floors hand-painted with images of Don Quijote and Shakespeare. There are also neoclassic mouldings and rich, traditional antique pink cantera stone. Each room is exquisitely designed and features textiles and handmade decorations from local artisan communities.

Areas to Avoid

Just as it’s important to discuss where to stay, it’s also important to know where to avoid. Remember, it’s never worth saving a bit of money if it puts you at any risk.

I hope this guide helps you find the perfect place to stay to make the most of your trip to Mexico City!

Happy Travels, Adventurer!

The post The Best Places to Stay in Mexico City, Neighbourhood Guide first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Diego Rivera was a Mexican painter, muralist, and pioneer in the art of social realism. He is best known for his monumental frescoes depicting Mexican history from the conquest to the revolution. His work has been exhibited worldwide, housed in the most prestigious museums. But the best examples of Diego Rivera’s work can be found here in Mexico City. In public spaces as well as time-honoured museums. This guided tour takes you across the city, diving into unknown corners and popular tourist sites. So come with me on a walking tour in the footsteps of Diego Rivera.

Table Of Contents

1. About Diego Rivera
2. Start of the Tour: El Cardenal
3. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
4. Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central
5. Palacio de Bellas Artes
6. Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters
7. Former College of San Ildefonso
8. Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez
9. Antigua Academia de San Carlos
10. Palacio Nacional
11. Cárcamo de Dolores
12. Panteón de Dolores
13. Coyoacan and San Angel
14. Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
15. Plaza San Jacinto
16. Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
17. Casa Azul
18. Frida Kahlo Park
19. Museo Anahuacalli
20. Museo Dolores Olmedo

About Diego Rivera

Diego Rivera was born, along with his twin, in Guanajuato, Mexico, in 1886. Sadly, his twin brother died only two years after they were born. Even at such a young age, his twin’s loss significantly impacted Rivera. Perhaps this event created the storm of passion, artistry and creativity Rivera was known for. In fact, it was after his brother died that Diego began to paint. Perhaps as a means to deal with his grief.

Early Education & Artistic Career

Diego began art studies at the Academy of San Carlos in Mexico City at ten years old. The school was located in the heart of the city’s historic centre. The spark of creativity was ignited when he left his small town and studied in the big city. Diego was so talented that the school sent him to study in Europe. All of the greats were sent to Europe as it was seen as the centre of artistic creations.

Diego first studied in Spain, and after success there; he went to study in the pinnacle of art cities; Paris. Rivera loved Pars and lived there for years. He was inspired by the work of artists such as Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque. He immersed himself in the immerging style of Cubism and Paul Cézanne’s post-impressionism. From all these inspiring artists, Diego began to incorporate bolder colours, simpler forms and even abstract elements into his painting. This new style of painting demanded the viewer’s attention. Some paintings scream; they do not whisper. And Diego wanted his art to cry out.

Diego’s Love Life

It was in Paris where Diego met his first wife, Angelina Beloff. A fellow artist from Russia. Despite his atypically handsome appearance, Diego was a lothario. Always with a woman wed and a different one in his bed. During his marriage to Beloff, he was also in a relationship with Maria Vorobieff-Stebelska. Maria would give birth to Marika, Rivera’s first daughter.

Rivera divorced Beloff when he moved back to Mexico City in 1922. Soon after arriving back in Mexico, he met and married Guadalupe Marín. The new couple had two daughters together, named Ruth and Guadalupe.

Diego and Frida

But their relationship also didn’t last, as he was already having another affair with young Frida Kahlo. He divorced Guadalupe Marin in 1929 and married Frida a few months later. He was 44 years old, while she was just 22. Frida and Diego were like fire on fire. Both with huge personalities and huge tempers. But their tumultuous relationship fueled their art. They were both unfaithful during different parts of their marriage. But even these extramarital companions couldn’t soothe the wounds they caused each other. They eventually divorced in 1939. Only after Frida’s death in 1955 did Rivera marry again. This time to his long-time agent, Emma Hurtado.

Mexican Muralism

Diego is best known for his work in the Mexican Muralism movement. When he returned to Mexico City, it was under the influence of the Mexican ambassador to France, Alberto J. Pani. The new Mexican Minister of Education, José Vasconcelos, was undertaking a new program of government-sponsored Mexican murals. These murals would be installed all over cities across the country. It was the government’s attempt to reunify the country post-Mexican revolution. The murals were meant to promote political ideas, depict real Mexican society (the good and the bad) and reflect views of the social revolution. To help those who could not read or attend school learn their history.

Rivera’s Unique Style

The three artists who undertook this project were called “the big three” or “The Three Greats.” The group was composed of Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco and David Alfaro Siqueiros. Through these murals, inspired by the national identity of Mexico, Rivera developed his iconic native style. This style was based on large, simplified figures and bold colours with an Aztec influence. It is this style that made Diego an icon and gave Mexico its own national art style.

Rivera became so popular that he was called to the United States to bring his style of mural painting to public buildings in the US. He spent a few years working in the US until a disagreement with the Rockerfellers on a large commission fueled his charge back to Mexico City. He continued working on some of the most important commissions of his life until his death on November 24, 1957. After this death, the government of Mexico declared Rivera’s works as “monumentos historicos” due to their importance in the country’s art history.

Start of the Tour: El Cardenal

To start your morning exploring Mexico City in the footsteps of Diego Rivera, you MUST book yourself brunch at El Cardenal. Inside the restaurant is a domineering mural, an artistic replica of one of the most famous Rivera murals. Sitting under a work of art is a great way to bask in its glory while enjoying some delicious Mexican cuisine.

El Cardenal is located inside the Hilton Reforma Hotel. But originally, the hotel which stood in this place was the Hotel del Prado. The Hotel del Prado was built in 1946 as one of the most luxurious hotels in the city. To cement the hotel’s status as one of the top-tier establishments, they hired Diego Rivera to paint a mural inside their new dining room. Sadly, almost nothing of the old hotel remains, as the Hotel del Prado collapsed after the infamous 1985 Mexico City earthquake. The only thing pulled from the wreckage was the mural, which miraculously could be salvaged. The original mural was moved into the nearby Museo Mural Diego Rivera. But this artistic reimagining was made for the new hotel dining room to keep the same spirit of the original.

Dining at El Cardenal

El Cardenal is a small chain of restaurants found all over the city. Their mantra is preserving national folk cuisine and putting it forward for guests to enjoy. Diego himself loved to eat. Although he wasn’t a great cook, food was a major part of his life. Diego and Frida would frequent the marketplace to draw inspiration. And, before leaving, I would fill up on ingredients to bring home. Famous, Diego would end each night with a late supper of hot chocolate and pan dulce. One of his favourite meals that Frida would make for him was a chicken mole. He loved traditional Mexican cuisine and was passionate about preserving it. And this restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy so many traditional dishes.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

After breakfast, head over to the Museo Mural Diego Rivera. Despite being called a “museum,” the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is simply one large room designed to house the preserved mural from the Hotel del Prado. Thankfully admission is just over a dollar, so it’s more than worth a visit! After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the mural was saved (in pieces) and moved to the museum. Here, it was reassembled with care and restored to as close to its original condition as possible.

Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central

The mural is called Sueño de Una Tarde dominical en la Alameda Central (or Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central.) The exquisite mural spanned over 15 meters wide and was painted in 1947. The setting of the painting is, as mentioned in the title, Alameda Central. Alameda Central is a nearby park that has been a gathering place for locals for hundreds of years. The park was built in 1592 under the order of Viceroy Luis de Velasco II. It is now considered the oldest public park in the Americas. But long before it was a public city park, the area was an important site for the Aztec community. It was here where they held their enormous marketplace long before Spanish colonization.

Alameda Central

Alameda is from the Spanish word “álamo,” which means “grove of poplars.” The poplar trees that were once spread out through the park sadly do not remain today. Today, the trees have been replaced by ash, chestnut and willow trees. The group pictured in the park is filled with historical caricatures from over 400 years of Mexican history. They have all gathered together in this dream of Rivera’s. Although the dream sometimes feels more like a nightmare. Many historical paintings are told by the victors. Therefore they scrub away the sins of their past. But Diego, in all his works, never shied away from showing the grim realities of life. Violence and corruption permeated the history of Mexico.

Left Side of the Mural

The scenes from the painting can be read chronologically from left to right. You can get right up close to the mural in the museum to view these life-sized figures. Getting so close lets you feel the energy depicted within the scene. The piece seems to reverberate; gunshots fire, horses rear, police seize innocent indigenous children and the echoes of revolution swell in the background.

Hernan Cortez

One of the first figures of note to find is Hernan Cortez. You can see him off on edge to the left, dressed in his traditional military armour. His hands are posed in prayer as he is posed in front of flames that burn behind him. The flames of war he ignited. Beside him are victims of the Spanish Inquisition. Priests can be seen brutally punishing the victims, and a man all in black is in mid-swing of his cat of nine tails whip. One of the victims wears a sanbenito robe and conical hat. The iconic hat is now sometimes referred to as a “dunce cap.” The garments were worn by penitent heretics before they were put to the auto-da-fé. This “act of faith” was a ritual of public penance where the victims were killed by burning.

Below the large tree on the left, you can see two generals facing each other. The general on the left with the feathered admiral hat is Mexican president López de Santa Anna. Beside him is American General Scott. In 1846, during the presidency of López de Santa Anna, the Americans invaded Mexico City. And their encampment was actually located right inside Alameda Central.

Benito Juárez

Despite being farther into the background, the image of Benito Juárez, president of Mexico, is almost the largest face on the entire left side. He is seen holding a series of papers in his hands. Benito Juárez was President of Mexico from 1857 to 1872. During his time in office, Mexico suffered a second struggle for independence, a second defeat for the European powers, and a second reversal of the conquest. His greatest legacy was signing the Juárez Law, which declared all citizens equal before the law and restricted the privileges of the Catholic Church and the Mexican army.

Center Mural

The centre of the frame is the most vibrant and dreamlike part of the painting. It features bourgeois men and women in their Sunday best. In the background, the lush tropical park with a large fountain seems to glow with almost an ethereal neon hue. Above the scene in the centre is a huge hot air balloon flying above. The balloonist waves his Mexican flag, and the balloon is emblazoned with the Mexican Republic insignia.

La Calavera Catrina

The centre is dominated by a large, white skeletal figure called La Calavera Catrina. La Calavera Catrina (also called ‘the Dapper Skeleton’ or ‘elegant skull’) was originally conceived as a black and white cartoon. It was first drawn in 1910 by illustrator and lithographer José Guadalupe Posada. Rivera actually portrays Posada in this mural as well. He is seen to the right of La Calavera Catrina, holding her arm under his.

Originally, La Calavera Catrina was meant to be a caricature. She represented the elite of Mexico City during the reign of Porfirio Diaz. The caricature symbolizes a Mexican woman who has given up her Mexican culture and adopted high-society European aesthetics. Depicted with her huge Europe-styled hat and expensive feathers. And yet the woman is a skeleton. As if to say that no matter how you see yourself in this world, we are all the same underneath it all. Just bones. Over the years, La Catrina has become the symbol of death in Mexico. Her visage is a traditional part of the Day of the Dead celebrations.

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Rivera’s Calavera Catrina

In Diego’s mural, he has given the original sketch a whole body. While the face and large hat mirror the original drawing to a T, Diego has added some new elements. This includes a sumptuous feathered boa that hangs around her neck. But if you look closely, you’ll see the feathered boa still has a head and tail. This is meant to represent the Aztec serpent god Quetzalcóatl. Around her waist, La Calavera Catrina wears a belt with a gold buckle in the shape of an old Aztec symbol. This symbolizes La Calavera Catrina’s transition from caricature to a new form of revered god in the people’s eyes. She wears the body of the old god around her neck as she steps in to take its place.

Young Diego

In La Calavera, Catrina’s other hand, she holds the hand of a young Diego Rivera. Rivera has a playful little smile on his face. You can see a small toad poking out its head in his breast pocket, and in his other pocket, out comes a green snake. The umbrella he holds in his hand has the face of a bird, perhaps the Crested Caracara, often referred to as the “Mexican Eagle.” 

Frida Kahlo

Directly behind Diego stands Frida Kahlo. Frida’s hand lovingly rested on Diego’s shoulder. She holds a medallion with the yin-yang symbol in her opposite hand. Famously, Diego and Frida were polar opposites, yet they were drawn to each other despite these differences. In Chinese philosophy, the symbols depict the fundamental duality in humanity: female (“Yin”) and male (“Yang.”) Both Frida and Diego frequently painted images of each other in their artworks. In each of these paintings, there is always a coded message about the state of their relationship.

Throughout Diego’s career, Frida was always thought to be working in Diego’s shadow. She was known more as “the wife of Deigo Rivera” rather than an artist in her own right. And yet, here she is, the elder partner. Seemingly guiding Diego with her hand on his shoulder. Frida’s health was declining fast when Rivera painted this mural. Perhaps his small stature in the painting also reflects his helplessness in the face of her impending death.

Right Side of the Mural

To the right of the central group, we can see Porfirio Díaz looking down on them. Dressed in his military uniform and feathered hat, his decerning eyes gaze angrily at the group gathered. Díaz served seven terms as the President of Mexico. But this was better known as a dictatorship in the later years. Díaz started out as someone who aimed to turn the country around and free the people from the French. But once he came to power, his policies only benefited his circle of allies. The peasantry did not share in Mexico’s prosperity, leading to the Mexican Revolution of 1910. 

Below Díaz, on the ground, we see an indigenous family being forced to leave the park. They are being pushed away by a series of police officers. This is how Rivera uses transparency in his art. He aims to depict the racism that even the Mexican people have towards their indigenous community.

Francisco I. Madero

On the far right, up in a tree in front of a large Mexican flag, we can see Francisco I. Madero. He is smiling and waving his black hat up in the air. Madero was the head of the movement that overthrew Porfirio Díaz. Sadly, Madero was murdered during the Ten Tragic Days of 1913. His murderers, General Victoriano Huerta and Manuel Mondragón are also portrayed in the mural. Their menacing grey faces with prominent mustaches are hidden behind the crowd in the lower right corner. 

Also in the lower right corner are a group of women important to Rivera. This includes his ex-wife Guadalupe Marín, his daughters Guadalupe and Ruth Rivera Marín and his great friend Rosa Rolando Covarrubias. In the arms of his daughter Guadalupe, she holds her young son Juan Pablo. Perhaps by depicting his grandson in the photo, Diego wanted to cap the mural off with an image of hope. Hope for the future and for a better world for his grandson.

Alameda Central

After touring the museum, take a walk in the actual Alameda Central. Strolling through the gardens, monuments and pathways, you can get a sense of the vibrant atmosphere that must have inspired the setting for Rivera’s artwork. While the eastern portion of the park was for leisurely promenades, the park’s west end held a more nefarious purpose. This western section was originally built during the Mexican Inquisition. It was known as the “Burning Place.” Here, convicted witches and people accused of treason were publicly burned at the stake. While you don’t immediately think of Mexico as a place of witch trials, these inquisitions spread worldwide. When the inquisitions ended in 1770, the burning plaza was destroyed and transformed into an extension of the park.

One of the most important monuments is the “Hemiciclo de Benito Juárez.” This large semi-circle of eight towering marble columns with a central plinth is topped with a group of neoclassical statues. In the center is statesman Benito Juárez himself. Juárez was the 26th president of Mexico and, most importantly, the first president of Mexico of indigenous origin. On either side of him are two allegorical female statues representing the fatherland and law. On the pedestal he sits, you can see the inscription “Al benemerito Benito Juárez la Patria.” This translates into “To the meritorious Benito Juárez, the Homeland.”

Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Palacio de Bellas Artes, with its iconic sunset tiled roof, is one of the most iconic images of Mexico City. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and is aptly named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico.” The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical. But inside, you’ll discover a plethora of modern Art Deco and Art Nouveau stylings. Adding to the incredible decor of the interior is a series of murals wrapping around the walls. Each of these murals was commissioned by star painters of the Mexican Muralism movement. This includes; José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Jorge González Camarena, Roberto Montenegro, Manuel Rodríguez Lozano and (most famously) Diego Rivera.

Man, Controller of the Universe

On the 3rd floor is where you can find Diego Rivera’s Man, Controller of the Universe. The mural is a recreation of the original mural once painted for New York City’s Rockefeller Center in 1933. When it was first thought up by Rivera, he named it Man at the Crossroads. But halfway through the project, the Rockefellers and Rivera disagreed about the subject matter depicted in the mural. The piece was meant to represent aspects of contemporary social and scientific culture. While the Rockefellers loved Rivera’s work, a damning article by the New York World-Telegram called the mural “anti-capitalist propaganda.”

Rivera and Lenin

Rivera was furious by the statement. As a means of revolt, he added a portrait of Lenin hidden within the mural. This portrait had not been approved in his original sketches. But Rivera hoped it wouldn’t draw any attention by hiding among other large portraits. Unfortunately, right before the unveiling, the Rockefellers took notice and demanded it is painted over. Rivera refused, and the entire piece was destroyed. This was a massive blow to Rivera’s ego. He was quoted as saying, “Rather than mutilate the conception [of the mural], I shall prefer the physical destruction of the conception in its entirety, but preserving, at least, its integrity.”

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After its destruction, Rivera recreated it in Mexico City on a blank wall in the Palacio Belles Artes. Rivera had asked his assistance to take pictures of the original mural before it was torn. This ensured he could recreate it perfectly here at the Palacio Belles Artes. When he was finished, he named this version Man, Controller of the Universe. A much more powerful title and reflective of his overall worldview.

Reading the Mural

The mural is split up into three different sections. In the center is a workman turning a giant piece of machinery. As if he is controlling the world around him with this machinery. Rivera was a staunch atheist, and his idea of man being the controller of his own destiny, not god, is evidently presented here. On the right side of the mural are depictions of capitalism, and on the left are depictions of communism. As mentioned in the original title, the universe appears at a crossroads. And we don’t know which way the man in the center will turn the wheel…

Central Mural

Emerging from the lower portion of the workman’s body is a giant fist. In the tight grasp of the fist, we can see an orb. Inside the orb are images of atoms and cells dividing in the act of chemical and biological generation. An ethereal blue light glows from around the edge of the orb. And tendrils start to emanate and spread out onto the rest of the image.
Radiating from behind the man is a series of propeller-like shapes. Inside each shape are images on both the micro and macro levels. Images as far away as the cosmos or as close up as bacteria are all seen through a microscope. Rivera is telling us that man can see it all. Beneath the mechanical structure, you’ll notice a small garden growing. This is meant to represent Mexico’s controlled growth of rich natural resources.

Left Side of the Mural

To the mural’s left side, we can see a small grouping of high society women playing cards and smoking. Hidden within the group of women, Rivera painted a portrait of John D. Rockefeller. Painting him among the clueless and cruel elite was revenge for Rockefeller destroying Rivera’s mural in New York.

Outside of their “social circle,” just beside the elite, are the faces of haggard workers looking on. Exhausted, angry expressions paint their faces. Above them, riots roars and police on horseback swing their batons, trying to silence protesters. This is a harsh contrast to the carefree gambling parties on the right. They are entirely unaware of the reality of the world around them inside their bubble.

Charles Darwin

In the foreground, a group of students of different ethnic backgrounds sit in lecture chairs. They appear to be watching the scene unfold through the large oculus in front of them. They are the hope for tomorrow, and only through learning about the past will they shape a better future. To the students’ left, we can see an x-ray machine controlled by a timid bearded man who represents Darwin. He is surrounded on the floor by different animals, which his studies revolve around.

Above the group stands a giant classical marble statue of the Greek god Jupiter. He looks furious, raising his hand to the sky. But a thunderbolt appears to strike his hand and break it from the rest of the statue. Around his neck is a large wooden cross. Rivera points out how Christianity and the Greek gods were false and would be destroyed by this new world. For Rivera, past myths have no influence on the future, where science and our understanding of the natural world around us reign supreme.

Above the entire scene is an assemblage of faceless soldiers and war machinery. Each soldier wears a terrifying gas mask on their face, obscuring their identity. Above the soldiers, the sky is filled with planes against a blood-red sky. A comment from Rivera on the violence created by capitalism.

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Right Side of the Mural

While the left side seems focused on war, the right side is a socialist utopia. On the right, between the propellers, we can see that famous image of Lenin. The very same one, the Rockefellers, were so up in arms about. In Lenin’s hands, he holds diverse workers around him. To the left of the group with Lenin is one of the brightest parts of the mural. Four women are shown in brilliant white athletic uniforms against a brilliant backdrop. A beautiful symbol of the power and hope Rivera had for women.

Along the top edge of the right mural are a large group of men and women celebrating the Russian May Day rally. Each wears a red cap or scarf and flies flags to symbolize communism. On the far right, we see another classical sculpture depicting a seated Caesar with his head cut off. Around Casesar’s waist, he clutches a bundle wrapped with a belt displaying the nazi symbol. Rivera viewed Caesar as a man of material goods. His beheading was a message from Rivera to rid ourselves of these material obsessions.

Leon Trotsky

At the feet of the headless statue is a man with round glasses and white hair. This is Leon Trotsky, a Ukrainian-Russian Marxist revolutionary, political theorist and politician. Trotsky and Rivera were once good friends. Trotsky even came to live in Mexico City after being expelled from the Soviet Union. Despite their best efforts to keep him safe, Trotsky was assassinated in his home in Coyoacán. Trotsky holds a giant red flag, supported by the industrial workers around him, representing Marxist theory. In the bottom left corner, one of the workers can be seen sitting casually on the statue’s head from above.

Stand back and take the entire mural in as one large scene. By doing this, you can appreciate how the left, the capitalist society, feels grim. On the right, more emotions are on the people’s faces, more rich colours. The people on the left are controlled by the government and religious institutions, and only the elite are free. But on the right, communist society is given control and freedom to create its own universe. Controlled by the people.

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Diego and Frida’s Funerals

Another big connection that the Palacio Belles Artes has to Diego is that it was the designated location for the funeral of his ex-wife Frida Kahlo. And would go on to be where he would be laid in state after his own death. Diego arranged for Frida’s body to be laid out in the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The government agreed, only if they would make it an entirely non-political event. Diego agreed. But unbeknownst to him, one of Frida’s students came to pay their respects and threw a huge communist flag over her casket. The government threatened to remove her body, but Diego refused to let them. He said if they tried, he would carry her dead body in his arm. And sit with her on the palace’s steps. They reluctantly agreed, and the flag remained on her casket, one last act of defiance.

Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters

Take a walk along the pedestrian-only Av Francisco I. Madero west towards the inner portion of the Historic Centre. When you reach the República de Brasil, head north, crossing westward once more along Luis González Obregón street. A few steps down the street, you’ll immediately see the Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters. The enormous building is spread over an entire city block. The facades that face out onto the different bounding streets are each done in a unique architectural style. Changing depending on the era in which it was created.

Diego Rivera Murals

Walk inside the iron gates from the República de Argentina to enter the open-air courtyard. You’ll usually see two armed guards on either side of the doors. Since this is still a government office, they take security seriously. Tell them you are there to visit the Diego Rivera murals. The guards will usually let you in if there aren’t any private events. But they might do a quick security check of any bags, so don’t let that surprise you. Inside the doors, you’ll enter the first of two large adjoining courtyards. Covering the courtyard’s walls are 235 panelled murals painted by none other than Diego Rivera. This was Rivera’s first large-scale painting project.

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Rivera and Vasconcelos

When Rivera returned to Mexico from his studies in Europe, it was to participate in a new mural program started. The program was the pet project of the new Secretary of Public Education, José Vasconcelos. Vasconcelos thought that art was a powerful tool for education. He went about commissioning large-scale mural projects across the city to bring art to the public. This project took place after the great Mexican revolution. Art was to be used to help communicate to the people that this new government would guarantee the new life promised by the revolution. And the first building Vasconcelos wanted Diego Rivera to work on was aptly the same one he worked in.

Like many of his contemporaries, Rivera believed that easel painting was considered too aristocratic. He and his contemporaries thought large, public murals could reach a larger audience. Art didn’t need to be hidden away inside stuffy museums or only appreciated by those with a critical eye. Art was for everyone.

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Education Mural Themes

Rivera started work on the murals in 1923, which took the painter five years to complete. Despite the overly Greek-influenced exterior, these murals focused powerfully on the Mexican identity. The murals followed themes of the Mexican Revolution and the glorification of Mexican labourers. Rivera’s themes are divided by the two courtyards. The larger courtyard focuses on Labour, and the smaller courtyard is dedicated to the Mexican Fiesta. Unlike the European influence that paints the colonial parts of the city, these murals focused on traditional Mexican heritage.

Fiesta Courtyard

The smaller Fiesta Courtyard is the first one you’ll enter. Here there are murals on the ground floor depicting various meaningful events in the Mexican calendar. You’ll see scenes from the Deer Dance, the Day of the Dead and the Corn Fiesta. There are also murals featuring the Meeting on May 1st, Good Friday and the Ribbon Dance.

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Walk up the stairs to the second level, where you can view one of the most important of Rivera’s murals. This massive painting, called The Arsenal, portrays a group of revolutionaries preparing for battle. In the center, you can see the image of a young woman in red wearing a communist star on her shoulder. The woman who posed for this painting was none other than Frida Kahlo. He painted her when she was just a student, long before the two would be married. Hovering above the murals, Rivera painted a sprawling red banner. The banners span the entire wall length and connect one scene to the other. The text written upon it is lyrics to various revolutionary songs called “corridos.”

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Labor Courtyard

The larger courtyard surrounds a beautiful green garden full of lush foliage. In this area, you can see scenes depicting Mexican labourers. Using looms, you’ll find images of mineworkers, sugar mill labourers, and craftspeople. Women set about dying fabric, smelters work in hot ovens, and busy farmers sell their goods in the marketplace.

On the second-floor staircase are a series of murals highlighting Mexico’s diverse landscape. From the bright blue coastlines to the lush green mountains. The murals on the second level are dedicated to what Rivera considered the four primary elements of painting. These are light, colours, man and geometry.

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Former College of San Ildefonso

Head back outside and make your way to the Former College of San Ildefonso, now the Museo De San Ildefonso. As you walk towards the building, take a moment to study the architecture of the building. The ancient blood-red volcanic stones are contrasted with a series of elaborately designed windows. The vibrant stained glass still gleams in the sunlight even to this day.

You walk through the double arcade outside Justo Sierra to enter the building. Stand outside the door for a minute to appreciate the elaborate Neo-Churrigueresque architecture. Neo-Churrigueresque is also known as Ultra Baroque. The style developed primarily in Spain but made its way to their colonies. Here it seemed to find a loving home in the arms of the Mexican people who love decoration. The style is primarily identifiable by extremely expressive and florid decorative details. While these elements bleed into the rest of the building, their main cluster surrounds the entrances and facades.

Mexican Muralist Movement

Inside the old college, it’s here that the Mexican Muralist movement was said to be invented. The building was originally constructed in 1588 as a Jesuit College. But when the Jesuits were expelled, the school became a residence for soldiers in 1767. Then, in the 1860s, the building was once more transformed into a school by president Benito Juárez. Juárez took schooling out of the hands of the clergy and into the hands of the government. Back then, the school saw over 700 students in and out of doors daily.

Government Mural Program

As the school was brimming with activity, the government thought this spot would be the perfect spot to feature a new government-sponsored mural. They commissioned a series of murals with themes relating to Mexico’s history and the politics of the post-Revolution era. Various artists contributed to the art spread across the walls of the college. The artists included; Ramón Alva de la Canal, Fermin Revueltas, Fernando Leal, José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, and Diego Rivera.

The building remained a functioning college until 1978, when it finally closed its door. It wasn’t until 1992 that it was reopened as a public museum and cultural center. Today there is always a series of rotating exhibitions on display. Many of them feature subjects relating to art and archeology in Mexico.

Creation Mural

Admission into the museum costs 50 pesos as there are rotating exhibitions on display inside. But if you just want a peek at Rivera’s work, you can sneak inside the Bolívar Amphitheater. This is found to the left of the entrance. You can access the theatre without admission, so long as there is no performance inside. Inside the Bolívar Amphitheater is one of Diego Rivera’s earliest murals, The Creation. This singular mural took Rivera over a year to complete, spanning over a thousand square feet!

The entire piece is a symbolic composition combining mythological and religious motifs. Along the top, in the center of the mural, is a blue astrological sphere with three hands emanating. This represents the holy trinity, stretching outwards towards the audience. In the middle are images of Adam and Eve, flanked on either side by the muses; Love, Hope, Faith, Prudence, Justice, Strength, Wisdom and Science.

Rivera’s Early Style

In this painting, Rivera’s art style’s youth can be studied. His iconic, more abstract technique seems to be missing. As if he hasn’t found his authentic voice just yet. The piece follows a similar style to that of Italian Renaissance fresco paintings. But even within this early work, his use of geometric structure, powerful facial expressions and strong composition are persistent.

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Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez

Less than ten minutes from the college, you can make your way to the Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez. This simple community marketplace is home to a series of murals painted by Diego Rivera’s students. While the work wasn’t by Diego himself, I love the idea of seeing his ideologies passed down to the next generation. And studying the works allows you to appreciate Rivera’s impact on future artists.

Market Murals

The market was built in 1934, and at the time, it was known for being very modern. It spread over 12,450 square metres and featured a daycare, youth center, library and large auditorium. It was more than just a market; it was a community centre. But most importantly, the architect hired Diego Rivera’s students to paint murals. These murals would span the entire interior wall and ceiling with themes portraying socialist ideologies popular at the time in Mexico City.

The young artists were passionate about reflecting the exploitation of workers, peasants and miners, especially by the elite of Mexico. The murals also depicted the fight against the Nazis, fascism, and racism. When the murals were initially painted, they were thought to be the city’s fourth most important public murals. And yet, over the years, they began to deteriorate. After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the marketplace began to fall into disrepair. The humidity started to peel the paint, and as the area was losing its prominent status, vandalism was also a problem. The mural was all but lost to the ages. But thanks to a group of concerned merchants, restorations began in 2008. This ensured these pieces of national history would be preserved. Although restorations are ongoing, you can walk around the marketplace today to see many iconic paintings.

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Antigua Academia de San Carlos

Walk south down Calle Loreto, east across República de Guatemala and down La Academie. Here you’ll find the Academia de San Carlos. This was the first art academy in Mexico and the “new world.” They opened their doors in 1785 and primarily taught academic neoclassicism to their students.

But over the years, the students began to rebel against the learnings of teachers from Europe. They longed for their own national artistic identity. This came to a head in 1911 when the student began to strike. This strike would last over two years. The students demanded to be able to paint outdoors. They wanted to be able to experiment more in their artwork and eventually shift towards a modern form of painting. Diego Rivera was the leader they needed and became the academy director in 1929. He was the perfect choice to appease the students. His entire career has been about telling the story of the Mexican people and bringing modern art to the masses.

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Palacio Nacional

To finish off our tour of Diego Rivera’s murals in the historic centre, we must pay a visit to the Palacio Nacional (or National Palace). This is his piece-de-resistance. The Palacio Nacional is an enormous museum with so much to see and do. Entrance to the National Palace is free, although there is usually a long lineup to get inside. You need to leave a piece of ID with the guards at the door. Since the Palace is still home to the offices of the Mexican President, security is critical. They need to control the number of people and keep track of exactly who is inside. The entrance to the National Palace can be found on Moneda Street.

History of the Palace

The site of the building was once Moctezuma II’s Grand Palace. His great residence was built here in 1521. When Cortés first visited the Palace, he described it as having a surprising array of riches. The walls were made of marble, and the facade contained a carved shield of Mexico’s iconic eagle. With the snake in its claws. The building was modern, with sanitary facilities, fountains, gardens, and bedrooms with rich rabbit fur and feathers tapestries. In addition to being a royal residence for the rulers of the Aztec city, it was also a meeting place for the older tribe members. Here disputes and discussions would take place to ensure the wealth and happiness of their people.

Hernan Cortés

Sadly, after the invasion by the Spanish, Hernan Cortés seized the residence from the Aztecs. Cortés was so enamoured by the palace that he used it as his home. Passing it down to his son in later years. The Palace’s devastating fire in 1692 destroyed much of the original structure. Many of the original stones that could be recovered were used in the reconstruction efforts. However, the new palace was styled in the Baroque fashion of the time. It seemed that over time, every generation added its own touch to the building. And now, it looks more like a patchwork quilt of architectural ages.

History of Mexico Mural

Walking inside the National Palace, follow the signs for the ‘History of Mexico Murals.’ These can be found within the great courtyard, surrounded by Baroque arches. Walk up to the main stairwell, where you’ll immediately be struck by this immense masterpiece. The mural depicts the history of Mexico from the dawn of human existence through to the 1920s. Rivera started work on this mural in 1929, many years after his first mural project. The precision and confidence in his technical skills and expressive style are evident in this work of art. Rivera was decisive in using his art to communicate his ideologies about communism and the rejection of the colonizers. He wanted to bring the crimes of the past clearly into the minds of the people. To ensure these atrocities were never forgotten.

The main message of the mural surrounds the indigenous Mexican people’s struggles to preserve their culture, National identity and country against the brutal colonizers. Standing at the base of the stairwell, take a minute to appreciate the sheer grandeur of the entire piece. So much of the story is sad—a classic tale of good vs. evil. The goodly indigenous Mexicans had one of the most vibrant cultures. Yet, they were practically wiped out by the evil, invading Europeans.

If you squint and look at the entire piece, the bright colours and expressive shapes look powerful, hopeful and strong, just like the Mexican people. Despite the horrors of the past, the post-revolution population believed in the future of their country. Especially as it became an independent nation. And that their strength and perseverance would conquer evil and allow their great country to prosper.

North Wall 

Walk up the stairs to the landing in the center, and look up at the left side, or North Wall. This part of the mural depicts the indigenous Mexicans long before the arrival of the Spaniards. They are surrounded by the fantastical Mexican landscape all around them. The blue is almost heavenly —the large bright sunshine above casting all of them in celestial light. The Aztecs believed in the sun god, as seen in the all-seeing eyes painted onto the sun’s face. Just below the sun, you can also see an erupting volcano with Xiuhtecuhtli’s “the Lord of Fire” exploding from the mouth of the volcano. In the sky flies Quetzalcoatl, the Feathered Serpent deity and god of the wind and the rain.

The Valley of Mexico is spread along the horizon, with its amazing pyramids towering above the people. Standing in front of the pyramids are the Aztec leaders, guiding and looking after their citizens. In the left corner, you can see a small battle scene between two tribes. This violence was a common occurrence in any civilization. But the cultural costumes worn by the different tribes make this little vignette so interesting.

Farmers are tending to vivid corn crops, almost as bright as gold. Craftspeople in the lower right-hand side of the mural are busy weaving, making pottery, playing music, painting and writing on scrolls. This shows their modern civilization, full of technology, art and science! They were the farthest thing from “savages,” as the violent Spanish colonizers reported.

West Side, Main Wall 

We move from the north wall’s idyllic memories to the densely packed and violent images of the west wall. This is the mural straight ahead as you walk up the main stairs. It is the battle of the Mexican people against their oppressors. A story of hatred and war is woven into the fabric of Mexico’s history.

Lower Level Depictions

The lower part of the mural is riddled with images of Mexicans and Indians fighting against the heavily armoured Spanish and French cavalry. The beautiful and bright feathered costumes of the Aztec leaders crushed and fell under the feet of their enemies. Cortez can be seen in the middle of the painting, as he is the only mounted soldier with his face exposed. The rest of the attacker’s helmets are closed. But Rivera paints Cortez with his helmet raised, so his actions are not anonymous.

Cortez’s armies have modern weaponry making their defeat of the Aztecs a foregone conclusion. Despite being outgunned and outnumbered, the Aztecs fought valiantly against the Spanish on the right and left corners. All the while, the Aztecs are being watched over by a great golden eagle in the center. The eagle sits perched atop a cactus with a serpent in its mouth. The design of this symbol is rooted in the legend that the Aztec people would build their great city on the spot where they found an eagle eating a snake on top of a cactus. They called that place Tenochtitlan (Mexico City), and it was worth fighting for them.

Middle Depictions

In the middle of the mural, we see the horrors brought to Mexico by the Spaniards. Not only did they want to conquer the land, but they also wanted to abolish the Aztec religion. The Inquisition went about burning sacred books and religious imagery. You can see these fires burst out across the wall. Priests on the left-hand side can be seen forcefully converting the indigenous people to their new religion of Chrsitiniarity. The Spanish turned many natives into slaves, and these hard-working people were the creators of this “new world.”

Upper Arch Depictions

Under the five arches at the top of the wall are the various rulers of Mexico. Interesting to note is Rivera’s use of non-hierarchical representation. No one man is larger than the other. While some think it makes the mural more challenging to interpret or read, it is part of Rivera’s communist ideologies of equality.

Starting from the left, we see the French Rule and execution of Austrian Emperor Maximilian in 1867. Next to that, we see images of the Porfirian era. This era was coloured with a brutal dictatorial rule accomplished through consensus and repression. In the central arch, we see depictions of Independence and the Mexican Revolution. You can see a man with a mustache carrying a large red banner at the very top of the frame. This is revolutionary Emiliano Zapata, who was one of the leading men in the revolution. The red flag says “Tierra y Libertad,” which means “Land and Liberty.”

To the right, we see images from the Reform and Juarez eras. Benito Juarez was Mexico’s only Indigenous president and the founder of the new Mexican nation. Finally, on the far right, we have the invasion of Mexico by the US. Above the invading US army is the great eagle flying down to attack.

South Wall

The south wall to the left of the main stairwell depicts the future of the Mexican people. The imagery represents progress, prosperity and hopes for a better future. At the top of the mural is the image of Karl Marx holding his great Communist Manifesto on a large scroll. To the right of this is a man flying the Soviet flag. When the mural was painted, the Mexican people and Rivera himself had solid socialist tendencies. The Soviet flag can be seen throughout imagery from this era.

To the right of Karl is a scene of Mexican workers. They are being attacked and oppressed by police wearing large gas masks. This scene takes place in front of Mexico City’s skyline silhouette. While the other two murals are more fluid in their collage-like design, this mural is framed in harsh geometric metal beams. Inside these almost cage-looking rectangles are pictorial representations of what Rivera saw as negative social forces in high society. 

At the bottom of the painting is the image of a woman dressed in bright red. Look closely at her face to see if you can recognize the model. It is none other than his wife, Frida Kahlo. Frida holds a copy of the Marxist manifesto and is engaged in a political rally. Very similar to her real-life political activism. Above her is another similar-looking woman. This is Frida’s sister Cristina, with whom Rivera had an affair during his marriage to Frida.

Second Level

On the second level of the courtyard patio are 11 additional murals painted by Rivera. These are continuations of the history but highlight particular scenes that Rivera found to be important during the pre-Hispanic era. These murals were not finished, and it’s interesting to see them as works in progress captured in time.

Cárcamo de Dolores

There are several other spots in Mexico City to see if you are following in the footsteps of Diego Rivera. One location to visit that is home to two important spots is the great Bosque de Chapultepec or Chapultepec Park. The park is one of the largest city parks in the Western Hemisphere and spans over 1,600 acres! A dense and populated city needs fresh air, and this park acts as its “lungs,” with trees that replenish oxygen to the Valley of Mexico. The name Chapultepec stems from the Nahuatl word chapoltepēc, which means “at the grasshopper’s hill.” If you find yourself in Chapultepec Park, you can also visit the Cárcamo de Dolores. 

The Cárcamo was built in 1951 under engineers Eduardo Molina Arévalo and Guillermo Torres. The Cárcamo de Dolores (or Sump of Dolores) was a hydraulic structure that housed a giant water tank. From here, the city would control the levels in several other large water reservoirs. But, the space was given an artistic flair by Diego Rivera. 

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Tláloc, the God of Water

Once the new system was implemented, they set about creating this museum in honour of the water god Tláloc. Tláloc is the god of rain, water and earthly fertility. Walking up to the building, you can see the giant tiled fountain with the image of Tláloc lying down, spread over 100 feet wide. He lies with his legs laid splayed, decorated with brightly coloured stones mined from the natural resources of the Mexican landscape. Originally, the area where we now find the fountain was the entry point where the Lerma River water entered the city’s reservoir.

Water has long been both worshipped and yet highly problematic in Mexico City. After the Spanish conquest, they drained the precious life-giving rivers and lakes. Since then, the city has constantly been searching for accessible water. So people are continually making their prayers to Tláloc. In the hopes he can solve what even modern-day engineers still have not.

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Main Building

Inside the main building is where you can find Rivera’s murals, Water, Origin of Life. These murals pay tribute to the workers, engineers and architects who participated in the construction of the original Cárcamo water system. These 200 square meters of murals were meant to be underwater, making them the only underwater mural in the world. Today, the murals’ pools are empty, allowing the public to observe the artworks. Constant aquatic exposure resulted in the slow deterioration of these historical works, so the water was drained and diverted. A pipe organ has been installed to give the room the same atmosphere as it once had. The organ makes noises through the adjacent municipal pipes to make the room sound like a functional waterway.

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Panteón de Dolores

On the other side of the Avenue Bosques in Chapultepec Park is the great Panteón Civil de Dolores. This Pantheon, or cemetery, is the largest cemetery in Mexico. And in my opinion, this cemetery is one of the greatest in the world! Filled with some of the most incredibly elaborate and imaginative tombstones. The cemetery was built in 1897 on Juan Manuel Benfield’s ranch. Benfield founded the cemetery in honour of his wife, who had recently died in Veracruz. She couldn’t be buried in Veracruz as all cemeteries there were for Roman Catholics only, and they were practicing Anglicans. The cemetery grew and grew over the years, becoming home to some of the most illustrious dead of Mexico City. Today, the cemetery has over 700,000 tombs and is considered the most crowded cemetery in Latin America.

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They even have a special section of the cemetery called the ‘Rotonda de las Personas Ilustres‘ (Rotunda of Illustrious Persons). This area honours those who have exalted Mexico’s civic, national and human values. Originally it was named the Rotunda of Illustrious Men. But it was renamed by President Vicente Fox in 2003 as the cemetery also honours many famous women. The first person to be buried here was soldier Pedro Litechipia, who died fighting against the empire of Maximilian in 1876. 

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Diego Rivera’s Tomb

Included among the illustrious dead is Diego Rivera. Interestingly enough, Rivera had requested that he not be buried at all. Instead, he wanted to be cremated and his ashed comingled with those of his beloved Frida Kahlo. Frida’s urn can be found inside her beloved Casa Azul. Sadly, upon his death, his family overruled his decision and had this tomb designed to house his body. The vault was designed with pre-Hispanic patterns and symbols swirling around the tombstone. Emerging from the stone are the bright white marble arms and the death mask of Diego Rivera himself. As if the artist is merely asleep and is rising from the grave. Haunting and yet beautiful all at once.

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The Flower Vendor (Girl with Lilies)

On either side of the tomb are bouquets of white calla lilies carved in marble. So they may bloom for eternity. Rivera’s famous The Flower Vendor (Girl with Lilies) is one of Rivera’s most famous artworks. Although the lily is associated with funerals and death to Rivera, it symbolizes indigenous culture. It also references Mexico’s abundant flora and even a hint of sensuality, as the flower resembles a certain part of the female anatomy. Flower sellers also represent the poor working class. Who sold the beauty of the Mexican landscape to the wealthy upper class, which consumed it. For this reason, focusing on the flowers on his grave is even more important to his legacy.

Tomb Mosaic

Above the tomb, on a large stone marker, is a beautiful mosaic. It features the image of an older indigenous woman surrounded by lit candles. The scene appears dark as if she is here at night. She kneels on the ground, planting seeds with a woven basket in front of her. A symbol of how Rivera planted seeds in the minds and eyes of the Mexican people. Inspiring them for ages to come. On the opposite side of the mosaic is a burst of Rivera set into the stone. Below it is a large inscription dedicated to the life and impact of the great artist.

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Coyoacan and San Angel

You can visit many other places that are significant to Diego Rivera, located outside the city centre. Luckily, Uber makes seeing many of these destinations very straightforward. Two neighbouring areas worth visiting are the colourful suburb of Coyoacan and the quiet artistic streets of San Ángel.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo

The rural hamlet, filled with cobblestone streets and bougainvillea-covered colonial homes of San Angel, was where Diego Rivera called home in his old age. While the Casa Azul was Frida’s palace, the Casa Estudio was Diego Rivera’s oasis. Here, you can learn more about Diego, the man, not just Diego, the artist. This was Rivera’s dream home. He had it custom designed by architect and friend Juan O’Gorman.

Juan O’Gorman

O’ Gorman studied functionalist construction under the swiss design of Le Corbusier. Gorman was enthusiastic about bringing this modernist style to Mexico City. A city he saw as being a hub for modern thinking and exquisite architecture. Diego and Frida’s studio house would be the first construction using functionalist architecture in Latin America. Functionalism was a style defined by buildings that should only express their use or function. They removed excess decoration and prized minimalism.

For Diego and Frida, this functionalist ideal represented their need for two separate studios. Functionally, they could not work together. Frida and Diego’s relationship was plagued with intensity, both good and bad. But when it was bad, it was very, very bad. They found the need to have two different spaces to work to focus on their craft without quarrelling with one another all day. And yet, the two buildings are connected by a large bridge on the top. It is a symbol of their love. That at the end of the day, they still found a way to come together and connect. 

The Architecture of the House/Studio

The two buildings were designed almost as polar opposites. Diego’s studio building is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. On the other hand, Frida’s studio is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her Casa Azul. Both studies feature almost floor-to-ceiling windows, giving the interior space an indoor/outdoor feeling. The houses are separated from the street by a perimeter fence. But instead of being made from wood or wrought iron, the fence is made of rows of tall cacti along the roadside. Giving it the most iconic appearance.

The couple lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul. Leaving Diego to live full-time, alone in the studio house. After their divorce, the couple actually got back together only 9-months later. But even after this reconciliation, Frida and Diego kept the studio house. Diego would continue to live there full-time until his death on November 24, 1957. Rivera died in his studio, and his body remained there as friends and family sat vigil inside to mourn the loss. After this, his body was moved to the Palacio de Bellas Artes for his state funeral. After his death, his daughter inherited the house. But she gifted it to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes to be enjoyed by the public for years to come as a museum.

Diego’s Studio

Diego’s studio is filled with natural energy. The floor-to-ceiling windows allow sunshine to shine through and ignite the space. The studio museum still contains brushes and pigments, which Rivera used to make his murals. He is sitting on his easel like he is about to walk back into the room mid-painting. Dotting the walls are items from Rivera’s pre-hispanic arts and crafts collections. Books lined the shelves, which served as artistic inspirations and portraits of Diego’s many friends and fellow artists. It really felt like a space that was intimate and highly personal.

But filling the majority of the studio are these huge paper-mâché figures. These are called “Judases” and are life-sized papier-mâché dolls popular in Mexican folk art. These are usually made to be burnt as a part of the celebrations on the day before Easter. The figures are made in the image of Judas the Traitor or other unfavourable people. This could be anything from images of devils and demons or even politicians, criminals and disliked shopkeepers. They are then stuffed with fireworks and blown up on the street. Much to the enjoyment of the onlookers. But Rivera didn’t blow them up. Instead, he kept them as souvenirs of the local artisans. Although the simple craftsmen who made them might not see them as high art, Diego saw these as treasures to keep forever.

Plaza San Jacinto

Just a 5-minute drive from the museum/studio, make a stop in the Plaza San Jacinto. This beautiful park is a hub of activity on Saturday mornings. On the weekends, artisans of the San Angel neighbourhood descend on the park to display and sell their creations. Small groups of artists often sell throughout the week, but Saturdays are the most popular day. You’re guaranteed to find the marketplace bustling on those days.

Make your way to the plaza’s centre and look across from the elegant central fountain. There, you will see a bronze easel with the burst of Diego Rivera emblazoned into the cartouche. As Rivera was a resident of the San Angel for many years, local artists inspired by Rivera wanted to commemorate him for generations to come. There is something wonderful about Rivera’s face looking over at the artists in the square selling their works. Continuing his passion for supporting Mexican artists, even from the great beyond.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Now let us head into the vibrant neighbourhood of Coyoacan. Our first stop is at the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This building is now a free cultural centre to enter and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on an Izotitlán farm, a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow wild all over the property.

Just inside the entrance to the Casa is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can sit alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. The house has existed here since 1780, occupied by various families. It’s no stretch to imagine that the previous owners would have welcomed the famous couple into their garden for a visit or a dinner party from time to time.

Casa Azul

La Casa Azul, or “the blue house,” located on Londres Street in Coyoacán, once belonged to Frida’s father, Guillermo Kahlo. It was here where she was born. She grew up inside these walls. It was where she suffered from illness but flourished as an artist. Eventually, Frida bought the house from her parents and lived with Diego throughout their marriage. They even got divorced and remarried, all within these blue walls. And ultimately, it was the place where she would pass away. It was her sanctuary but also her cage. She spent more years inside these walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at Frida and Diego’s private world. The house has sketches by both artists and pictures of the two as a couple. But the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art. They collected pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more which are still on display. Walking inside their home, you feel a deep connection with Frida and Diego. To learn more about Casa Azul, take my self-guided tour!

Frida Kahlo Park

Frida and Diego loved the outdoors. Diego often painted outside. The outdoors were an important part of their artistic life. In the centre of Coyoacan, you can make your way to Frida Kahlo Park. In the middle of the park, you’ll find two large bronze sculptures of Frida and Diego. Frida is dressed in her classic Tehuana outfit, gazing over at Diego. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned into geometric shapes. Slightly resembling Aztec pyramids popping out in the background.

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Museo Anahuacalli

If you are travelling to Xochimilco, you should stop by the Museo Anahuacalli. Your ticket into the Casa Azul also covers your entry into this museum. The Museo Anahuacalli was another one of Diego Rivera’s homes. Diego and Frida were fierce nationalists who loved their home country and wanted to preserve its history. Diego and Frida dreamed of opening their own museum dedicated to these objects. Sadly, in their lifetime, this dream never came to fruition. But after Diego’s death, his daughter took up the project and created the Museo Anahuacalli. Architect Juan O’Gorman, who designed their studio, also designed this house.

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The house’s exterior was made using black volcanic stone from an old Mexico volcano. The texture is something truly unique. There are over 50,000 pre-Hispanic pieces inside the museum. Some of these Diego would collect while he and Frida would travel to ancient Aztec pyramids outside of Mexico City. Each one of them was a piece of Mexico’s heritage, a heritage that inspired the historical influences of Rivera’s artwork.

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Museo Dolores Olmedo

Also, near Xochimilco, stop at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Museum. The museum is located inside the grounds of an old 16th-century residence. In 1962, Dolores Olmedo bought the house. Dolores was a fierce collector of art as well as a lover of Mexican culture. It is no surprise to learn then that she was old friends with Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. She was also one of their most prolific collectors, and her gallery remains the largest private collection of their works. In 1994, her collection was transformed into the museum we now find today. Luckily, Dolores lived until 2002, so she could see this fantastic house converted into an art gallery for the public to enjoy.

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Olmedo & Rivera

Olmedo met Rivera when she was only 17 years old on a trip to Mexico City with her mother. They met while Rivera was working on his murals inside the Ministry of Education building. Inside the museum, you can see one of the portraits that Rivera painted of her. He made it in 1955 after their first meeting. As their friendship continued, Rivera continued to paint Olmedo and her children. They were so close, in fact, that Olmedo invited Rivera to spend time with her family in her home in Acapulco. Here, the painter made over 50 different paintings of sunsets from Olmedo’s front porch. Several of these paintings can be viewed inside the museum.

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Today you can explore gardens filled with exotic Mexican plants, magical peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles. Xoloitzcuintles are a rare dog breed that was once only thought it exists in mythical stories of the afterlife. But the breed is actually an ancient hairless Aztec dog. The museum also features a permanent exhibition of works by Russian-Mexican artist Angelina Beloff, Diego Rivera’s first wife.

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This brings us to the end of the Mexico City tour, walking in Diego Rivera’s footsteps. I hope you enjoyed your time with us and learned something new about the city along the way! Let me know in the comments what your favourite stop along the tour was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Insider’s Guide to a Diego Rivera’s Life & Art in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

But while the pandemic might be raging outside my doors, lucky for us, the wonders of modern technology allow us to travel virtually. Even while cooped up at home! So if you’re looking for something fun to do, perhaps this virtual weekend tour of Mexico City is just what you need. This virtual tour is a fun way to bring a little bit of wanderlust back into your life and break your pandemic routine.

Table Of Contents

1. Saturday – Start with a Café de Olla
2. Visit the Golden Metropolitan Cathedral
3. Find your Inner Archeologist in Templo Mayor
4. Discover Historic Treasures inside the National Museum of Anthropology
5. Find Art Deco Murals inside the Palacio de Bellas Artes
6. Discover Mexico's Fold Art Heritage at the Museo de Arte Popular
7. Hike to the Chapultepec Castle
8. Take a Mexican Cooking Class
9. Sunday: Start off in Coyoacan's Casa Azul
10. Take a Virtual Walking Tour of Coyoacan
11. Experience the Wonders of Xochimilco
12. Peek into the Life of Frida & Diego inside the Museo Dolores Olmedo
13. Learn how to Make Mole
14. Watch a Lucha Libre Match!

Saturday – Start with a Café de Olla

One of my favourite parts of the day when visiting any city is early in the morning. This might seem odd to some people, as their idea of a vacation is getting to sleep in. But I find the morning to be the best time of day to see a new city. I love watching the locals walking to work, taking their dogs out to the park and admiring the sunlight as it rises to wake the city. And in every city I’ve visited, everyone starts the day off with a cup of coffee.

In Mexico City, I had some of the best cups of coffee of my life! One of the traditional forms of coffee in Mexico is called ‘Café de olla‘. Café de olla is easy to prepare at home yourself and will make you feel like you’re somewhere new! Café de olla is traditionally made in an earthen clay pot, and its predominant flavour is made from boiling cinnamon sticks. This gives the coffee the most amazing spiced flavour.

Café de Olla Recipe

The video below is my favourite recipe guide as it’s hosted by this adorable Abuela (Spanish for “grandmother”). She shares with us her time hnoured recipe for her Café de Olla. The only ingredient you might not find in your local grocery store is the ‘piloncillo‘. A piloncillo or panela is a cone of unrefined cane sugar. This boils away in the water and sweetens the coffee as it dissolves. If you don’t like sweet coffee, you can omit this altogether or just add white sugar to taste.

Visit the Golden Metropolitan Cathedral

Now that you’ve had your caffeine, let’s continue our peaceful start to the day. Next stop: the Metropolitan Cathedral, located in the heart of the Zocalo. The Metropolitan Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary into Heaven is probably the longest title of a church I’ve ever seen. The church is the official seat of the Catholic Archdiocese of Mexico. While being such a holy place for Christians is enough to make this building sacred, it is also located right beside one of the most outstanding former Aztec precincts. The area is a powerful connecting space between both the new and old world. You can sit back and enjoy a 4K virtual tour of the building in the video below. Admire the fantastic gilding throughout the church and the stunning Saint chapels that flank either side of the nave.

CyArk

One of the most remarkable ways you can get up close to the details inside the church is through the work of CyArk. CyArk is a non-profit organization that aims to digitally record, archive and share the world’s most significant cultural heritage sites. In 2018 they set out to document the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral. Since the structure is at such high risk due to earthquake damage, capturing it as it is now will help future restorers should the worst happen.

Altar of the Kings

As of 2021, CyArk has captured in 3D the entirety of the monumental ‘Altar of the Kings‘. This altar measures 45.1 ft wide, 82 ft tall and 25 ft deep! The altar is almost entirely covered in gold gilding and features hundreds of painted figures. Due to its enormous size and amount of gold used, it is also called the “golden cave“. With the CyArk technology, you can zoom right into the different pieces of the atar and see the smallest details you can’t see from the floor below.

You can also explore the exterior of the church. Zooming all around it, even peeking onto the roof. You can explore areas of the building unable to be seen by the public on the ground. I had never even noticed until now that the central dome’s onion roof has blue ceramic tiles lining the ribs! Their website also offers a detailed exhibition into the creations of this digital masterpiece.

Find your Inner Archeologist in Templo Mayor

Located right beside the Cathedral are the ancient ruins of the Templo Mayor. The Templo Mayor (which is Spanish for the “Greater Temple”) was the Aztec people’s main place of worship[ in their capital city of Tenochtitlan. Tenochtitlan was founded around 1325 on an island in what was then Lake Texcoco. The Aztec empire flourished here until the 15th century until the Spanish invaded and changed the course of Mexican history forever. The temple constructed here was called the Huēyi Teōcalli. It was dedicated to both the war god Huitzilopochtli, and the god of rain and agriculture, Tlaloc. Construction of the temple is thought to have begun in 1325 but saw significant reconstruction over the years. The Spanish destroyed the temple in 1521, but luckily we still have these remains to study the great empire.

History of the Museum

When the modern metropolis of Mexico City began to be constructed, city planners had no idea what was beneath the earth’s surface. In 1978 archeologist Eduardo Matos Moctezuma discovered that beneath 13 buildings in this area there were the ruins of the old empire. Excavating the site meant that all these 13 structures had to be demolished. Luckily, the city saw more value in recovering lost treasures of the past than preserved buildings from colonization.

More than 7,000 objects were discovered here and are on display in the museum. Skeletons of turtles, frogs and crocodiles were found as this area was once a rich waterway. There were also mixtec figurines, ceramic urns from Veracruz, masks from Guerrero state, copper rattles, and decorated skulls and knives of obsidian that were uncovered. So many of these objects came from far away, revealing that this city was a great place to journey to.

Street View

The museum opened to the public in 1980 so that everyone could view these fantastic pieces of Mesoamerican history. To view the site for yourself, you can explore it is via google street view in 360. You can look up and down on the exterior and see the details of these centuries-old buildings.

To find out more about the museum and the old temple, you can watch this video below. There are English subtitles to follow along with if you don’t speak Spanish. The video is well worth listening to as it gives you an excellent primer on the history of the site.

Discover Historic Treasures inside the National Museum of Anthropology

To learn even more about Mexico’s ancient history, head over to the virtual National Museum of Anthropology. This museum is the most visited museum in Mexico City. That is saying a lot since Mexico City is home to the world’s 2nd most extensive collection of museums! The National Museum of Anthropology’s goal is to research, conserve, exhibit and disseminate the most important archaeological and ethnographic collections from the country.

The online gallery is broken up into categories based on the materials the objects are made of. You can view pieces made of stone, clay, rock and more. When you click on an object, you will be able to study it in detail by zooming in and out. They scanned the items at such high-res you can get right into the cracks! Along with the images of the item are excellent write-ups on the pieces that will tell you all about where it was discovered, the meaning behind it and even information about the craftsmen who made it.

Find Art Deco Murals inside the Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Palacio de Bellas Artes or Palace of Fine Arts is an Art Nouveau masterpiece. It stands as the central hub for music, dance, theatre, opera and literature in Mexico, dubbing it with the nickname “Cathedral of Art“. Construction on the Palacio began in 1904 but was halted in 1913 due to many different complications. The structure wasn’t finished until 1934.

While the exterior is a beautiful blend of Art Nouveau and Neoclassical architecture, the interior is decorated with Art Deco elements. One of the things which makes the building so famous is the interior murals painted by Diego Rivera. To explore the Palacio de Bellas Artes, you can take a virtual tour. On the official website, you’ll be able to see the incredible murals, tour the sprawling art deco lobby, explore the theatre and even see underneath the stage! Something which not just any ol’ visitor would be able to see. My favourite part of the building is the stunning stained-glass dome inside atop the theatre.

Discover Mexico’s Fold Art Heritage at the Museo de Arte Popular

Across the street from the Palacio de Bellas Artes, you can find the Museo de Arte Popular. This museum takes visitors back several centuries and studies the history of traditional folk art of Mexico’s people. It aims to display the diversity of cultures and how the interaction between nature, man and society create the rich fabric of Mexican art and artistry.

Two online exhibitions that are available virtually study traditional Mexican textiles and the Festival of Day of the Dead. The show on clothing is such an interesting investigation into the influence of Mexico’s flora and fauna in apparel. You can see how different parts of the country have various iconic patterns dedicated to their local flowers.

In the exhibition ‘The Ofrenda of Day of the Dead‘, the museum aims to teach the viewer all about the Mexican ‘Ofrenda‘. An ‘ofrenda‘ is an altar that families prepare for the relatives who have passed. This is a traditional part of the Day of the Dead celebrations. It is meant to guide the spirits of their dead relatives’ home during the festival. The altar is filled with items that the person who past loved in their life. The altar is also covered with meaningful items such as sugar skulls, marigolds and more. The exhibition will tell you all about the significance of the objects placed on the altar.

Hike to the Chapultepec Castle

Hidden away atop a hill above downtown Mexico City is the great Chapultepec Castle. I was amazed by visiting the castle that such a thing existed in Mexico City’s modern metropolis. Chapultepec Castle’s name comes from the Nahuatl word” chapoltepēc,” that means “at the grasshopper’s hill.” The hillside was, for hundreds of years, a sacred place for the Aztecs. In the 18th century, before the palace was built, the hillside was home to a gunpowder warehouse and military academy. Then in 1864, it became the official residence of Emperor Maximilian I and his consort Empress Carlota.

Carlota went to excellent care and expensive to remodel the palace into a luxurious residence. It was used as an official residence of the President of Mexico from 1883 until 1939. After which it was turned into a museum. My blog about my visit to the castle is a highly detailed summary of all the wonders you’ll find there. YouVisit also has a beautiful virtual tour you can take to view parts of the palace in 360 degrees!

Take a Mexican Cooking Class

The best way to finish off your day is to create a delicious traditional Mexican meal. One of the best things about visiting Mexico City is the food! And while you might not be able to be there yourself, food is always something you can attempt to make at home. One of the very best online class services is the ever-popular MasterClass. Gabriela Cámara, A “star of modern Mexican cuisine,” brings her local, sustainable twist to time-honoured traditions. In this class, you will learn how to make everything you need for a complete Mexican dinner. You’ll make fresh tortillas, succulent tacos al pastor, salsas (of course), and my favourite aguachile de camarón (raw shrimp in lime and chile). You can even learn how to make huevos rancheros to eat for breakfast the next day!

Sunday: Start off in Coyoacan’s Casa Azul

Next up, it’s time to head over to the suburb of Coyoacan, to see where the great artists Frida Kahlo lived. Frida not only grew up in Coyoacan, but she also purchased her childhood home and lived out the rest of her days there too. She called the house “La Casa Azul”. The name comes from the bright Azul (Spanish for blue) colour that the house’s exterior is painted with. In her childhood journal, she wrote that the colour blue represented “electricity and love.” Those two words seem to describe Frida perfectly. Despite all the suffering, she went through her art and her life is filled with such passion and power.

Truly one of my favourite places I have ever visited is the Casa Azul, in Mexico City. This gorgeous blue house, in the cozy neighbourhood of Coyoacan, is where Frida Kahlo lived as a child. It is also where she spent the better part of the end of her life. In Mexican culture, it is good luck to be born and die and in the same place. The Casa Azul is teeming with memories, influences, and the real spirit, Frida Kahlo. There is genuinely no better place to give you a more intimate exploration into her life than inside the Casa Azul.

During the summer of 2020, the Casa Azul Museum took it upon themselves to capture the Casa Azul in 360 degrees. With this new technology visitors from all over the world could explore the house room by room from their own home! You can explore the entirety of the house, peeking into her kitchen, bedroom, studio and her magical garden. The virtual tour doesn’t come with any detailed information, so you can use our self-guided tour. Follow along for a complete understanding of the significance of every object, painting and plant inside the house. If you’re interested in a full virtual tour of Frida Kahlo, you can check out my blog post for more on the great artist.

Take a Virtual Walking Tour of Coyoacan

One of the most important places to study Frida Kahlo is in her home town neighbourhood of Coyoacán. Outside the heart of Mexico City, this little village was where Frida was born, grew up, lived, and eventually died. These streets were her playground, her studio and her home. It’s here you can get a glimpse into the life of the great artist. You can read more about Coyoacan here or take a virtual tour online.

Experience the Wonders of Xochimilco

A place that was sacred to Frida was Xochimilco. Xochimilco and the surrounding Aztec waterways were where Frida and her friends would go to escape the city. A famous photo of Frida on a boat along the Xochimilco canals shows her dipping her hand into the water. She felt at home here, a place to run away from her dramatic marriage, her pain and even perhaps, herself.

Today it’s a vibrant neighbourhood where you can experience the same journey Frida would have taken. There are so many videos online which take you through these wonderfully colourful canals. With a Mezcal in hand at home, you’ll feel like you’re there!

Peek into the Life of Frida & Diego inside the Museo Dolores Olmedo

Located in Xochimilco, the Museo Dolores Olmedo is situated in an old stone house dating back to the 16th century. Inside it contains the world’s largest collections of works by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The online exhibition tells the story of the life and art of Frida Khalo. Using personal effects, photographs and live street views of where she lived you feel like you are stepping into her shoes. And of course, you’ll also see a myriad of her earliest paintings and sketches.

Learn how to Make Mole

For our second recipe I wanted to provide an alternative to the subscription service which MasterClass requires. There are TONS of free recipes and tutorials online and the best are on Youtube. Rick Martinez with Food52 (one of my favourite recipe websites) takes us through how to make one of his favourite recipes, Mole. Mole is such an essential part of Mexican cusine. But the recipe can feel like a daunting one to take on. But with Rick’s charming personality and easy-to-follow instructions, he makes the entire experience nothing but fun!

Watch a Lucha Libre Match!

Lucha Libre is one of the most vibrant and exciting sports to watch in Mexico City! It had even been deemed a part of the “intangible cultural heritage” of Mexico City as of 2016. Lucha Libre means “freestyle wrestling,” and these stupendous matches are the perfect way to end off your virtual tour of Mexico City. Over the years, Lucha Libre wrestling has developed a unique style separating it from any form of American wrestling, either professional or Olympic.

In Mexico, wrestlers dress in fantastical outfits and always wear the iconic colourful “lucha” mask. They must wear their mask, hiding their true identity. Only when they lose a match are they unmasked as a sign of disgrace. We went to see a show when we were in Mexico City, and it was one of the most exciting nights of my life! To get an idea of what it is like to experience it for yourself, I would recommend watching the video below.

The video details the entire experience. From entering the great stadium, to the food and, of course, the amazing acrobatics of Lucha wrestling. If you’re interested in just watching other matches, you can check out this video and more online.

This brings us to the end of our lovely virtual weekend in Mexico City. Another part of our series on Virtual Travel. I hope you enjoyed being able to see all these amazing places inside my favourite place in the world! Let me know in the comments what you’re favourite place we saw was and what future destinations you’d like to visit virtually next!

Happy (Virtual) Travels, Adventurers!

The post How to Have an Amazing Virtual Weekend in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Since we can’t travel right now due to covid restrictions, I wanted to find new ways to ignite that wanderlust. Even from the comfort and safety of our home! So what better way to kick this series off than with my favourite artist: Frida Kahlo. Not only are these virtual tours a great way to entertain yourself at home, but they are also an excellent resource for future trips.

Explore Casa Azul

Truly one of my favourite places I have ever visited is the Casa Azul, in Mexico City. This gorgeous blue house, in the cozy neighbourhood of Coyoacan, is where Frida Kahlo lived as a child. It is also where she spent the better part of the end of her life. In Mexican culture, it is good luck to be born and die and in the same place. The Casa Azul is absolutely teeming with memories, influences, and the real spirit, which was Frida Kahlo. There is genuinely no better place to give you a more intimate exploration into your life than inside the Casa Azul.

During the summer of 2020, the Casa Azul Museum took it upon themselves to capture the Casa Azul in 360 degrees. With this new technology visitors from all over the world could explore the house room by room from their own home!

You can explore the entirety of the house, peeking into her kitchen, bedroom, studio and her absolutely magical garden. The virtual tour doesn’t come with any detailed information, so you can use our self-guided tour and follow along for a complete understanding of the significance of every object, painting and plant inside.

Virtual Walking Tour of Coyoacan

One of the most important places to study Frida Kahlo is in her home town neighbourhood of Coyoacán. Outside the heart of Mexico City, this little village was where Frida was born, grew up, lived, and eventually died. These streets were her playground, her studio and her home. It’s here you can get a glimpse into the life of the great artist. You can read more about Coyoacan here or take a virtual tour online.

Stream ‘Frida’

If you have never seen the 2002 biographical drama ‘Frida‘, starring Salma Hayek and directed by Julie Taymor, I would HIGHLY recommend giving it a watch! While the movie takes some liberties with her life, Julie Taymor went to great lengths to make the film look like it was plucked right out of the mind of Kahlo. Scenes contain such visually evocative sets and effects that they seem more like a moving painting than a film. Since the majority of her life was spent in Mexico, this movie takes you on a journey to the street of Mexico in the 1920s and 30s.

Watch the PBS Documentary

Suppose you are more interested in a documentary about Kahlo rather than a movie? In that case, you can watch this PBS special ‘The life and times of Frida Kahlo‘. While the special is a bit old, the fantastic personal photos they include are an intimate peek into her life and the information is unparalleled.

Explore the Appearances Can Be Deceiving Exhibit

The Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco hosted an exhibition called ‘Frida Kahlo: Appearances Can Be Deceiving‘ in 2020. When the lockdown made it impossible for visitors to see it, they created a virtual tour of the exhibition. This allowed visitors from all over to the world to view the exhibition online.

In 2004, inside the Casa Azul, curators discovered a never before seen collection of Frida’s personal effects. Hidden inside a locked trunk were treasured items from her wardrobe, prosthetics, handmade jewellery, accessories, and also Frida’s personal photographs. The online video was directed by Benjamin Michel, an award-winning filmmaker specializing in cinematography. Because such care was taken in filming the exhibit, you really get an incredible experience of what it would be like to view it yourself.

Since many items found in the trunk were pieces of clothing, the close-up filming lets you see the smallest details and textures of the objects. Frida used clothing and accessories to create her image, which was also her armour. Her image is one of the most iconic things people associate with Frida. Even those who might not know what a painting of Frida’s might look like can easily describe her quintessential appearance.

Dive into the Faces of Frida

Google’s Arts and Culture department has gone to great lengths to create an online resource for art lovers. Although they have been working on these exhibits prior to lockdown, they amped up their curations to allow art lovers to get their gallery fix! Their collection of Frida Kahlo artwork, ephemera, personal objects and more is unmatched! Over 25 different museums collaborated to create this online museum collection. Their website allows the viewer to explore the myths and legends about Frida’s life and zoom in to every inch of her incredible works of art.

One of the exhibits collects both found photographs, sketches and works of art to tell her life’s story. One of my favourite online exhibitions explores Frida’s complicated and painful yet also beautiful, relationship with her body. Frida suffered from polio as a young girl. She then experienced a life-altering bus accident later in her teens, which left her permanently disabled. And yet all this fueled her love of painting as a means to express herself from the confines of a bed. Her pain and suffering throughout her life are one of the central themes of her artwork. Understanding the context of these works is a beautiful way to learn more about art and the artist.

If you have ever been interested in an in-depth guide to her thematic paintings, then check out the stories featured in the online gallery. These do a deep dive into the significance of the smallest aspects of her works of art. Her powerful and somewhat disturbing painting entitled ‘Henry Ford Hospital‘ has long been one of my favourites, and studying every last piece of imagery included gave me some beautiful insights I had never considered before!

Read a Book

Suppose you are interested in learning more about the artist but don’t want to commit to reading a lengthy biography. In that case, I cannot recommend picking up the book ‘Frida Kahlo: The Story of Her Life‘ by Vanna Vinci more! This gorgeously illustrated novel blends facts and history with dreamlike and surreal sequences. Vinci creates Frida’s dramatic, romantic, tragic and painful journey to life on the page unlike ever before. I cried reading this book and was amazed at how powerful it was. The illustrations inside are so evocative you’ll want to read it over and over again. The Mexican imagery makes you feel transported and is an excellent resource for your wanderlust!

Make Frida’s Food

Another great way to allow yourself to feel like you’re somewhere else other than inside your home is through food. If you’re like me, one of your favourite parts of travelling is getting to try traditional cultural cuisine. Frida Kahlo LOVED to cook. She portrayed food consistently throughout her paintings. Her friends and family love to talk about how she adored holding raucous dinner parties inside the Casa Azul. We actually have a lot of knowledge about the kinds of foods Frida cooked. In the book ‘Frida’s Fiestas‘, her stepdaughter created a storylike cookbook. It was made from her memories as well as personal accounts from friends and mementos from Frida’s scrapbooks. This book will take you on a journey through Mexican cuisine and is bound to ignite your inner chef!

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The Art Assignment by PBS Digital Studios has a beautiful video online all about Frida’s cooking. It even takes you through making some of her iconic recipes and explains why food was so important to Frida.

Experience the Wonders of Xochimilco

A place that was sacred to Frida was Xochimilco. Xochimilco and the surrounding Aztec waterways were where Frida and her friends would go to escape the city. A famous photo of Frida on a boat along the Xochimilco canals shows her dipping her hand into the water. She felt at home here, a place to run away from her dramatic marriage, her pain and even perhaps, herself.

Today it’s a vibrant neighbourhood where you can experience the same journey Frida would have taken. There are so many videos online which take you through these wonderfully colourful canals. With a Mezcal in hand at home, you’ll feel like you’re really there!

I hope all these resources gave you a great start to exploring the world of Frida Kahlo from the comfort of your own home. And even if we can’t get out there and travel right now, we can still ignite the spirit of adventure.

Happy At-Home-Travels, Adventurers

The post 9 Amazing At Home Frida Kahlo Travel Experiences first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
3. #1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
4. #2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán
5. #3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza
6. #4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán
7. #5 Learn about Mexico's Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares
8. #6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul
9. #7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated
10. #8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho
11. #9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán
12. #10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa
13. #11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina
14. #12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
15. #13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán
16. #14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, Line 3 to Coyoacan Station, but the station is a bit of a walk from the main areas of the tour. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, and mythology with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer the land they controlled.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores in 1519 the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexicas, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and gardens.

#1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

#2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours. They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions.

The Monastery

The monastery is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

#3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th-century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

#4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán

The Mercado de Coyoacán has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, marketplace was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Shopping in the Market

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan ! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shtrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

El Borrego de Oro

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

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#5 Learn about Mexico’s Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares

The National Museum of Popular Culture is one of the most vibrant museums you’ll visit anywhere in the world. Rather than old painting or ancient relics, the museum focuses on temporary exhibitions which rotate and change throughout the year. They call themselves a living entity. There is always something new to see. But regardless of what is on exhibition, there will also be items featuring expressions of popular, indigenous and urban cultures. The museum is a great place to come to learn about Mexico’s current culture and art scene. 

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#6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

#7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

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#8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick-me-up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

#9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán

This ice cream shop across from the park has been serving up traditional flavours of ice cream inspired by the many different fruits which grow only around this part of the country. Don’t recognize the name or a certain flavour? Give it a try! You might be totally shocked to find a new favourite flavour, even if you had no idea what it actually was. This is an especially good treat if you’re visiting on a hot day. Grab a few scoops and relax under the shade of the park nearby.

#10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán. Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

#11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina

The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

#12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings!

There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century. In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple.

#13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

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#14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

The Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives has 30 different movie theatres housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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The post 14 of the Best Places to Visit in Coyoacán to Spend the Perfect Day in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

You’ll visit not only her famous residence, Casa Azul, but also explore a multitude of other significant places. These spots were essential in the formation of her identity and connection to her Mexican heritage. If this is your first time visiting Mexico City, this tour is an excellent method of discovery. Many of her famous locations are located in the heart of neighbourhoods with a variety of other popular attractions.

Tour Itinerary

This tour is divided up into four different sections, each one focusing on a particular area of Mexico City. While it might not be the most chronological journey, it allows you to explore different neighbourhoods around Mexico city cohesively. While a chronological life tour would be better in terms of following her journey, it requires bouncing all over the city. Especially for those who are on a tight schedule, that’s not the best use of your time.

The three different neighbourhoods are the Coyoacán, Historic City Centre, and Xochimilco’t. You can easily add these spots to your existing itinerary. I would advise to only tackle one neighbourhood at a time. Don’t try to fit it all in one go. The last section is a list of museums. These museums will help you get a deeper understanding of Mexican culture, insights about Frida, and art in Mexico. Since these places were not locations Frida really visited they are not part of the essential tour. Although they do add a lot of contextual information if you’re interested in that kind of thing.

Below is a map of the entire walking tour. I have broken up the neighbourhoods into separate maps for easy-to-follow directions.

Frida Kahlo in Coyoacan

1. Tour Itinerary
2. Frida Kahlo Museum
3. Coyoacan Market
4. The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal
5. Cantina La Guadalupana
6. Parroquia San Juan Bautista
7. Frida Kahlo Park
8. La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura
9. Jardín Centenario
10. Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
11. Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera's House-Studio
12. Former College of San Ildefonso
13. Biblioteca Pública 
14. Secretaría De Educación Pública
15. Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
16. The Palacio Nacional
17. Avenue 5 de Mayo
18. Garibaldi Square
19. Palacio de Bellas Artes
20. Alameda Central
21. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
22. La Ciudadela
23. Xochimilco Canals
24. Museo Dolores Olmedo
25. Templo Mayor Museum
26. Museum of Modern Art
27. Museo Nacional de Antropología
28. Mexican Art Gallery | GAM
29. Museo Franz Mayer
30. Museo Anahuacalli

Frida Kahlo Museum

La Casa Azul or “the blue house“, located on Londres Street in Coyoacán once belonged to Frida’s father, Guillermo Kahlo. It was here where she was born. She grew up inside these walls. It was the place where she suffered from illness but also flourished as an artist. Eventually, Frida bought the house from her parents and lived with her husband, Diego. They got divorced and remarried all within these blue walls. And ultimately, it was the place where she would pass away. It was her sanctuary but also her cage. She spent more years inside these walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art. They collected pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more which is still on display. You feel a deep connection with Frida by literally walking in her footsteps. You get to see her inner sanctum and looking at the precious treasures she collected, which represented her passions, her wishes and her dreams. To learn more about the Casa Azul take my self guided tour!

Coyoacan Market

South of Frida’s house is the Coyoacán Market. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. Both Frida and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul. Frida loved to cook, and there are countless recipe books out there that details her favourite recipes. At one time, she was quoted as saying,

“We could not have a child, and I cried inconsolably, but I distracted myself by cooking, dusting the house, sometimes by painting…”

Frida’s Shopping List

Frida would come to these brightly coloured corners of the marketplace to shop for her favourite ingredients, chat with her local shopkeepers and wander around to get inspired for her next creation. This marketplace feels a little more laid back and less modern than some of the ones in the inner city. Exploring it feels like more of an authentic experience to the one Frida would have had herself. Make sure you ask about the mole paste they sell here. Mole was one of Frida’s favourite things to cook and eat, and there are countless varieties here you can buy and taste! See which one if your favourite and bring some of the powdered version home with you to make in your own kitchen!

The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal

The Casa de Cortes, on the north side, of the Plaza Hidalgo was where the seat of government was held for many years. And it was here that Frida and Diego were married. Frida’s parents were not a fan of Diego…to say the least. Diego had already been married twice, and his reputation as an unfaithful husband wasn’t a big secret around town. He was also 21 years older than 22-year-old Frida. Her parents protested and begged Diego not to marry her, but the love birds could not be swayed. Her parents referred to the union as a “marriage between an elephant and a dove” since Diego was over 300 pounds, and due to her illnesses, Frida was only a petite 98 pounds.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

The two were married on August 21st, 1929. Their marriage in city hall was presided by the mayor of Coyaocan, and their witnesses were a hairdresser and homeopathic doctor. Frida wore only a long skirt and simple blouse with a rebozo (shawl) wrapped around her shoulder. She would often wear these in the same way that female revolutionaries wore them during the 1910 revolution when women used the scarves to smuggle guns past government checkpoints. Diego was dressed in a plain grey suit, accessorized with a Stetson hat and a Colt revolver. After their short ceremony, they retreated to their good friend Tina Modotti’s house where the raucous reception was held.

It was recorded that after the wedding, during their reception, Diego took the colt revolver and shot it off aimlessly in a drunken stupor. Frida was none too pleased at this childish behaviour, and it would be the first signs of trouble in paradise for the couple.

Cantina La Guadalupana

Just down the street from the Casa Municipal, you’ll find Frida’s old watering hole, Cantina La Guadalupana. Although the original cantina is now closed, you can still see the old signage out front marking the spot. The building is much unchanged from the days when you’d catch a glimpse of Frida’s richly coloured skirts in the window. The Cantina La Guadalupana was the couple’s bar of choice for drinking tequila under the dim lights and surrounded by bullfighting decor. Frida was quite the prolific drinker for her small size and other than tequila, she would love to drink pulque. Pulque is made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant, native to Mexico. It was a beverage which the ancients Aztecs invented and drinking it made her feel closer to those old gods.

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Parroquia San Juan Bautista

Across the park, stands the imposing shadow of the baroque church that Frida Kahlo attended while she was growing up, Parroquia San Juan Bautista. It is also called the Iglesia de Coyoacán as the church has become the central place of worship in Coyoacán. It was built between 1520 and 1552 and run by an old Dominican order. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. But surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations.

The interior, however, is covered in baroque gilded decorations, and mindblowing ceiling frescos of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Frida would have come here as a child and prayed with her parents. You can only imagine how such a richly artistic place would have inspired young Frida’s mind.

Frida Kahlo Park

Seeing as the city is the place of her birth, it seems only right that Frida would have a park dedicated after her. Frida loved the outdoor, and although not everyone can afford to go into the Casa Azul’s garden daily, they can wake their way to Frida Kahlo Park to celebrate the great artistic legacy…or at the very least, walk their dog in a lovely setting. In the centre of the park, you’ll find two large, bronze sculptures of Frida and Diego. Frida is dressed in her classic Tehuana outfit, gazing over at Diego. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned into geometric shapes, slightly resembling Aztec pyramids popping out in the background.

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La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura

Located on the east end of Coyoacán, is La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura. Frida began teaching here in 1942. She hoped that its close proximity to her house would mean she could easily commute to and from and continue to educate Mexico City’s artistic youth. She loved her students and teaching, but her leg was bothering her more and more and eventually, she couldn’t leave the house. Luckily, the students loved her as well, and the dedicated pupils would come to the Casa Azul, where Frida could continue to instruct them. She would always inspire her students to look to Mexican culture for inspiration, instead of being influenced by European trends. While Frida might not have taught here for a long time, the school grounds are a beautiful and inspiring place to explore.

Jardín Centenario

The Jardin del Centenario is the central greenspace in Coyoacan. It is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. The gardens were once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

This beautiful garden is also where you’ll find a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below.

Frida in the Park

This delightful park is where a place Frida would frequently come to stroll or celebrate during her life in Coyoacan. It was here where the city would hold parades, festivals and fairs. Diego Rivera’s daughters have written extensively about their time living with Diego and Frida in Coyoacán. They lived with them inside the Casa Azul for two years while they completed college. The Jardín CentenarioIn is featured heavily in their accounts as Frida loved to come there to ride carnival rides and march in parades on any day of festivity and would always bring Diego’s daughters with her. Although Frida could never have children herself, she mothered so many young people along the way, acting as a parental figure any time she got the chance.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

The Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles is a cultural centre, free to enter and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. Just inside the entrance to the Casa is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. The house has existed here since 1780, occupied by a variety of different families. It’s no stretch to imagine that the previous owners would have welcomed the famous couple into their garden for a visit or a dinner party from time to time.

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio

Farther west, just outside of Coyoacán in the neighbouring district of San Angel is Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio. Frida and Diego had this building custom designed by their friend Juan O’Gorman. The studio was intended to be two separate buildings, connected by a bridge. A way of physically showing the differences between these two artists, who despite all odds, still manage to come together. Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. Frida’s studio, on the other hand, is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her home in Coyoacán. Diego’s house features thin windows along the top of the walls. Frida’s features almost floor to ceiling windows, giving the interior space that indoor/outdoor feeling. The house is separated from the street by a perimeter fence which instead of being made from wood or wrought-iron, is made from stacking rows of tall cacti along the roadside.

Studio-House

The couple lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they got divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul, leaving Diego to live full time, alone in the studio-house. Even after getting back together, only 9-months later, Frida and Diego kept the studio to use as more workspace. Today the interior of the studio features a lot of Diego Rivera’s work and decor, especially his collection of papier-mâché figures.

The Frida side of the house is pretty bare since most of her treasures moved over to the Casa Azul, but it is still interesting to view the architectural designs from inside. The best part of her studio to explore is her bathroom. It was in here that she was inspired to paint ‘What the Water Gave Me’ while staring down at her feet in the bathtub in one of her fits of depression. The very tub which is portrayed in the painting can be still seen today inside the studio. Frida also painted such iconic images as ‘The eye of the eye‘ and ‘The deceased Dimas’ while she lived at the studio-house.

Former College of San Ildefonso

We begin this part of the tour at the Former College of San Ildefonso. It seems very fitting to start the journey here since it was a place of so many firsts for Frida. This was where Frida first went to college in 1922. There she met some of her best friends, her first boyfriend and, most importantly, first met the love of her life; Diego Rivera. Frida’s father had the utmost confidence in his daughter.

Even after she had spent a good deal of her adolescence homeschooled, due to her polio, he still thought she was a genius. Her father decided to send her to this former Jesuit college, at much expense to the family. She was one of only 35 girls, out of 2000 students who went to the school. But she had always gotten along with boys almost more than she did with girls, so she flourished there. Frida would even be seen wearing men’s clothes to the college from time to time and embraced her more masculine side.

The Creation

At the same time, Frida was at school here, Diego Rivera has been commissioned to paint an enormous mural on the lecture room walls. The painting, called ‘The Creation‘ was Rivera’s first gigantic mural of this kind. It was commissioned by the Mexican government to educate the masses of people who couldn’t read but wanted to learn about history. The mural covers more than a thousand square feet and portrays mythological and religious motifs.

It was here when painting the mural that Frida first laid eyes on Diego. She would sneak in to watch him paint his nude models anytime she could. Diego, although married to Lupe Marin at the time, would frequently be found by Frida in the midst of making love to one of his models. She took it upon herself to even warn the artists if she saw his wife coming. Frida would mock and tease him as he worked, but he saw her as a charming little pest. She would go on and on about him to her friends, and despite their age difference, and would proclaim that one day, she would be his wife and have a child by him. Although the latter would never come to pass, who knew how right she would be about the rest.

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Biblioteca Pública 

Down the street from her college, we find the Biblioteca Pública where Frida would come to study. She would come here to meet up with her schoolmates the ‘Los Cachuchas‘. It was here they would discuss at length the politics of the day and plan their communist rallies. But the library was not just a place of learning for Frida. The library was also where she would spend hours falling in love with her first boyfriend, Alex Gómez Arias. In addition to Alex, she also met a gorgeous female librarian and had her first affair with a woman amongst these books. This relationship caused quite the scandal in the community but was her first foray into exploring her bisexuality.

Secretaría De Educación Pública

Just to the north of the school, is the spot of another one of Diego Rivera’s masterpieces. There are 235 panels in the Secretaría de Educación Pública featuring Diego’s favourite themes of blue-collar workers, and the glorification of all things Mexican. It was here while painting these murals in 1928 that Frida Kahlo would come to see Rivera once more. After her injury from the bus accident, she needed to find a way of making money for her family and art was always something which had interested her.

But Frida didn’t know if her artwork was skilled enough to become an accomplished artist. So she went to ask the one man she admired above all others and whom she knew would tell her the truth. She marched right up to him, her work under her arms, and asked him for an honest critique. He was flabbergasted at her brash attitude and charmed by her confidence. It looks him some time to recognize her as the little pest from years before, but it was here that perhaps Diego first fell in love with Frida.

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Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral

Frida’s mother was a fiercely religious woman. The Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral was right beside where Frida would walk to school every day and as such a part of her daily life. Even though many of Frida’s paintings contain a wide variety of indigenous imagery, she was raised in a Catholic household. Elements of religious iconography can be seen in her pictures, especially in her studies of ex-votos. This church is a beautiful place to explore and discover different references you might compare to some of Frida’s famous portraits. The church itself was built after the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire.

The Spaniards decided to build their first church on the site of the Templo Mayor of the Aztec in the city of Tenochtitlan. Stones from the destroyed temple of the Aztecs were used to create the church. And although we now look upon the destruction of that ancient temple as something to morn, it is incredible to stare up at this church and see stones stuck throughout from over 1000 years ago. The construction of the Cathedral began in 1573 and took until 1813 to complete! The enormous cathedral is over 350 feet long and 200 feet wide. This makes it Latin America’s largest and oldest temple.

The Palacio Nacional

The Palacio Nacional or National Palace is an enormous building which stretches out across the Zocalo. While some of the Palace is still used for governmental purposes, the rest of the building is open to the public and filled with incredible gardens, murals, fountains and works of art. But the most meaningful Frida related piece in the palace is the mural by Diego Rivera entitled, ‘The History of Mexico’.

The mural features the history of Mexico from pre-Columbian ancient times to the 1930s. Rivera painted the mural between 1929 and 1935. Key events in the mural feature stories like the Spanish conquest, the colonial period, the Independence movement, and the 1910 Revolution. The right side of the mural is a chronological study of the indigenous Aztecs before colonization.

The left side of the painting is less chronological, featuring smaller groups of stories about Mexico’s Independence. Along the bottom of the mural on the left is the portrait of Frida Kahlo, her iconic monobrow making her easily distinguishable from the others. She looks over a young boys shoulder at his book and is seen wearing a necklace with the communist star. In front of her, dressed in a red, is Cristina, Frida’s sister, holding open a copy of the Communist Manifesto. Years later, Diego would have an affair with Cristina, so seeing the two women here together, years before these dramatic events would unfold feels slightly foreboding.

Avenue 5 de Mayo

Walk along Avenue 5 de Mayo, towards our next destination. While the pedestrian street Avenue Francisco Madero is more popular, I always find it’d packed with tourists and people hawking flyers. In addition to this, the stores are all American brands which don’t feel as authentic to Mexico City. Walking along the street, you’ll see that many of these shops are incredibly old.

There are dozens of stores along the way that Frida herself might have popped her head in while she worked in the city. During her adolescence, she would come into the historic centre to work both in her father’s studio or at other artists’ workshops. Frida worked as an artist apprentice in the city, where she had her first affair with a married man. All of this before the age of 18. These streets filled her life with passion, and that can be seen in her escapades.

Garibaldi Square

Plaza Garibaldi is known as the home of mariachi music. Throughout the day, you’ll find mariachi bands playing all over the square. Frida herself loved coming here. She would bring her friends and family here anytime there was a celebration or holiday. She adored dancing to the music and often took part singing songs with the band members.

NOTE: Due to it’s proximity to the dangerous neighbourhood of Tepito, this area should be visited with caution, during the daylight hours. In recent years the city has taken many precautions to help with the safety concerns including increased police presence and the creation of the Bellas Artes-Garibaldi Tourism Corridor. This corridor has improved street lighting as well as the addition of beautiful gardens and sidewalks in the neighbouring streets to help improve the appearance of the area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Palacio de Bellas Artes

Palacio de Bellas Artes and its iconic rainbow stained glass roof are one of the most iconic images of Mexico City. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts events in music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and is therefore aptly named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico”. The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical, but inside you’ll discover a plethora of Art Deco and Art Nouveau stylings. On the 3rd floor is Diego Rivera’s famous ‘El hombre en el cruce de caminos‘ (Man at the Crossroads).

This mural was initially painted for New York City’s Rockefeller Center in 1933 but torn down by Rockefeller when Diego refused to paint out the image of Lenin he had sneakily included. Frida’s life in New York City, following Diego around from commission to commission, was such a significant point in her life. Gazing upon this mural, albeit the second version of it, is still such a powerful connection to the couple.

Frida’s Funeral

When Frida Kahlo died, Diego arranged for her body to be laid in state at the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The government agreed, only if they would make it an entirely non-political event. Diego agreed, but unbeknownst to him, one of her students came to pay their respects and after he did, threw a huge communist flag over her casket. The government threated to have her body removed, but Diego refused to let them. He said if they tried, he would carry her dead body in his arm and sit with her on the steps of the palace. Before she died, the last words she wrote in her diary read:

“I hope the exit is joyful – and I hope never to return”.

Alameda Central

One of Rivera’s most famous paintings is the fifty-foot fresco ‘Sunday walk through Alameda Park‘. The picture is currently in the Diego Rivera mural museum, but visiting Alameda Park is an excellent opportunity to take a walk inside of the painting itself. Alameda Park was Mexico City’s first city park and was built on the grounds of an ancient Aztec marketplace. Frida is painted into the mural, wearing the traditional Tehuana dress. She is holding in her left hand the Yin-Yang symbol, which represents duality. Perhaps this is the duality of life, or maybe Diego painted it as a reference to Frida’s dual personality.

Frida is resting her hand on young Diego’s should, like a mother protecting her young one. You can imagine how many times Diego and Frida would have come to this park together, to paint and to relax. Take some time to walk around and even buy some street food snacks to enjoy under the Jacaranda trees which bloom bright purple in the springtime.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

If you’ve visited the real Alameda Park, then it’s a treat to then see the mural of, ‘Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Central’. Look how closely Diego captured its likeness and the personalities of the people in the park. Despite being called a museum, the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is more of a housing spot for the mural, but the admission is just over a dollar. Originally the mural it was located at Hotel Del Prado. After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the hotel was condemned. Luckily, the mural was saved (in pieces) and moved the museum where it was reassembled.

La Ciudadela

Another iconic destination on the tour of Frida’s Mexico City is to the La Ciudadela marketplace. While this market only opened up in 1968, Frida would have frequented markets like this many times throughout her life in Mexico City. Places like this would have been where she came to purchase folk art, traditional textiles and elaborate, locally-made jewellery. So many of the old Tehuana patterns and dresses which Frida was known for can still be found in marketplaces like this.

Because this market is so large, you’ll have the largest selection and artisans comes from all over the country. Oaxaca is the best place to buy textiles from so if you see signage saying the products are from there you know they’ll be top-notch. If you’ve visited the Casa Azul already, you can even buy replicas of her favourite objects since many of those folk pieces are still made in the same way today. It’s like shopping in a Frida Kahlo-themed store!

Xochimilco Canals

Xochimilco is the Venice of Mexico. In the southern district of Mexico City, you’ll find is over 170 km of waterways which spread out in all different directions. Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico City, the indigenous people had created an incredible network of canals. They used these channels for transportation and to supply water throughout the country. Xochimilco means “Floating Gardens” as it refers to the Aztecs creation of the chinampas. Chinampas are artificial agricultural plots, rich in minerals, that are grown in shallow lake beds. In Xochimilco, they were used to produce thousands of flowers which looked like they were floating in the water. After the Spanish invasion, they dried up many of the canals in the centre of Mexico City to make room for modern roads. But the channels in Xochimilco remained.

Frida adored her Mexican heritage and the colourful culture which Mexico is all about. Today, Xochimilco is the best place to bask in that colour and energy. Along the canals, you can listen to mariachi bands, call over boats with mobile kitchens to serve up fresh tacos or delicious elote. Paddling along the stream are artisans selling flower crowns that resemble the flowers that Frida herself would wear in her hair. Even here, her iconic image is prevalent. To learn more about Xochimilco read my full guide here >> 

Museo Dolores Olmedo

While in Xochimilco, make sure you make a stop at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Museum. The museum is located inside the grounds of an old 16th-century residence. In 1962, Dolores Olmedo bought the house. Dolores was a fierce collector of art as well as a lover of Mexican culture. It is no surprise to learn then that she old became the largest collector of private works of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. In 1994, her collection was transformed into the museum we now find today. Luckily, Dolores lived until 2002, so she was able to see this fantastic house converted into an art gallery for the public.

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Today you can explore gardens filled with exotic Mexican plants, magical peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles. Xoloitzcuintles are a dog breed which was once only thought it exists in mythical stories of the afterlife but is actually an ancient Aztec dog. Frida herself loved these dogs and owned multiple throughout her lifetime. Inside the museum, you can find such famous Frida Kahlo’s as ‘The Broken Column’, ‘Henry Ford Hospital’, ‘Self-portrait with Changuito’, ‘A few Piquetitos‘ and ‘Mi nana Nand Me‘. If there is a particular painting, you wish to see be SURE to check online as so often her pictures are out on loan, being shown around the world.

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Templo Mayor Museum

Mexican culture and history were so essential to Frida’s life. Although Templo Mayor wasn’t discovered until after her death in 1978, Frida would have loved to have seen this relic from the past unveiled. Today, you can visit the museum and see what archaeologists discovered; the remains of the Aztec temple which the Spanish destroyed on their conquest into Mexico. The 10-foot carving of the Mexican goddess Coyolxauhqui and the over 7,000 Mexica artefacts is an entire half days worth of discovery!

Museum of Modern Art

The Museum of Modern Art in Mexico City has a stunning collection of 20th-century Mexican art. The most important being Frida Kahlo’s “The Two Fridas“. This painting is one of the most essential pieces in her oeuvre. It was painted after she divorced Diego and depicts what she saw as her two different personalities. The one on the left is dressed in traditional Tehuana costume, with a broken heart, her blood spilling out on the white of her dress. This Frida’s makeup is done, her lips painted deep red and rouge on her cheeks.

The Frida on the right is dressed in a more modern outfit. She is the independent Frida, whose heart is not broken and who can take on the world without Diego. But the two exist together, shattered and complete, heartbroken and confident. I love this painting as I feel it is so poignant to all of our lives and how we can be all things at once. Strong and weak, shy and loud, brave and scared. You don’t need to commit to one thing alone, we are complex beings, and this painting is a beautiful interpretation of that.

NOTE: Before visiting, be sure to check the website to see if the painting is on loan to another museum. Since this is the only piece of Kahlo’s inside the museum if you’re going expecting to see that and it’s on loan I know how disappointing that might be. So checking in advance is super important!

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Museo Nacional de Antropología

Throughout her life, Frida would often refer to “being the daughter and Mexico“. Her mother was unable to breastfeed young Frida, and so she was breastfed by her indigenous wetnurse. This is an image Frida has painted in a myriad of artworks. Frida always thought that by feeding on the milk of her country, she absorbed the cultural roots of her heritage from the minute she was born. Visiting the National Anthropology Museum is a window into the pre-colonial history of Mexico and those roots Frida so often referred to. The museum is also filled with many indigenous artworks as well as some of Frida and Diego’s student’s artwork they helped inspire.

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Mexican Art Gallery | GAM

Inés Amor founded the original Mexican Art Gallery in Mexico’s City in 1935. This was where Frida’s first art show in Mexico would take place. She exhibited her artworks during the inaugural International Surrealist Exhibition in 1940 with her painting ‘Las Fridas‘ (The Two Fridas, which is now at the Modern Art Gallery of Mexico). Even though there are no longer any of her pictures hanging on the walls, this is still an extraordinary place to visit. The gallery was the first to recognize the talents of Frida Kahlo professionally, and they are doing the same thing with current, contemporary Mexican artists today.

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Museo Franz Mayer

The Franz Mayer Museum is one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in Mexico City. It also houses a wonderful personal art collection from collector Franz Mayer. Here you can find over six centuries of objects he took great care in collecting throughout his lifetime. These collections feature ceramics, furniture, silver, sculpture, paintings and engravings.

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But there is also a room, called the Marguerite Rostan gallery, which highlights traditional Mexican textiles and costumes. The collection contains clothing from 14 different ethnicities such as Amusgos, Triquis, Chinantecos, Mazatecos, Nahuas from various places across Mexico. This acquisition represents and embodies an important contribution to the knowledge of traditional Mexican costumes. Many of these dresses are so similar to the ones Frida wore throughout her life. If you’re interested in learning more about traditional Mexican fashion, this is a great place to visit.

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Museo Anahuacalli

On your way to Xochimilco, you should stop by the Museo Anahuacalli. Your ticket into the Casa Azul actually also covers your entry into this museum as well, so you kinda get a two for one! The Museo Anahuacalli was another one of Diego Rivera’s homes. Diego and Frida were both fierce nationalists who loved their home country and wanted to preserve its history. Diego and Frida dreamed of opening their own museum dedicated to these objects. Sadly, in their lifetime, this dream never came to fruition. But after Diego’s death, his daughter took up the project and created what is now the Museo Anahuacalli. Architect, Juan O’Gorman who designed their studio, also designed this house as well.

The exterior of the house was made using black volcanic stone, taken from an old volcano in Mexico and the texture is something truly unique. There are over 50,000 pre-Hispanic pieces inside the museum. Some of these Diego would collect while he and Frida would travel to ancient Aztec pyramids outside of Mexico City. Each one of them was a piece of Mexico’s heritage, a heritage that inspired the work of Frida Kahlo and I know she would be proud to have helped in the creation of this museum which stands today.

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If you’ve made it all the way through this post, I commend you! There is so much in Mexico City to see in the footsteps of Frida Kahlo. You can easily adapt this tour to your personal interests or locations you’re already planning on visiting. Frida is one of the most exciting artists I’ve ever studied, and I loved writing and researching this tour, so I hope you have as much fun following it as I did in creating it!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Following the Colorful Life of Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This guided walking tour will lead you across the all the important stops in Coyoacán. I think to take it at a leisurely pace, leave yourself a whole day so you can take your time and go inside a few of the stops along the way. A google map with all the locations on the tour can be found at the bottom of this post.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
   • Map Of Walking Tour
   • Begin at: Frida Kahlo Park
   • Plaza de la Conchita
   • Casa de la Malinche
   • Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
   • Calle de Higuera
   • Iglesia de Coyoacán
     • Church Interior
   • Centenario Plaza
   • Hidalgo Plaza
   • Casa Municipal
   • Mercado Artesanal
   • Mercado de Coyoacán
     • Market Stalls
   • La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Museum
   • Leon Trotsky House Museum
   • Cafe El Jarocho
   • Le Bipo
   • Churreria General de la Republica
   • La Casa Del Coleccionista
   • Avenida Francisco Sosa
   • Casa De Diego De Ordaz
   • Italian Cultural Institute
   • Parque Santa Catarina
   • Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
     • Frida and Diego Statue
   • Barricas Don Tiburcio
   • Fonoteca Nacional
   • Viveros de Coyoacán
   • Centenario 107
   • Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, but the station is quite far away from our starting point. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City. The journey takes around 25 minutes depending on traffic.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer land.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores of Mexico in 1519, the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexican tribes, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. Cortés established himself in Coyoacán with the tribe he had become close with. He brought with him much wealth and Coyoacán bloomed as one of the most beautiful villages in the world, not just in Mexico. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can still find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and lush green gardens.

Map Of Walking Tour

Begin at: Frida Kahlo Park

Wake up bright and early and head on down to the start of your tour, Frida Kahlo Park. Since Frida is the most well-known resident of the neighbourhood, it seems fitting to start our journey here. This square honours the memory of the great Mexican painter. You can find a bronze sculpture of her with a full Tehuana dress, standing proudly in the centre of the plaza. Beside her, is her husband, Diego Rivera, looking on lovingly. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned and geometric shapes, resembling those of Aztec pyramids forming the archway overtop of the pathway.

 

 

 

 

 

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Plaza de la Conchita

Early in the morning, this peaceful square is practically empty. Only a few tamale sellers might be seen passing through on their way to hot spots in the centre of Coyoacán. In the middle of this square stands the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception Church, or “La Conchita“. La Conchita is a nickname for the church which literally translate into, “the little shell”. Although the church is now closed for restoration work, walking around this plaza will still provide an excellent introduction to the neighbourhood.

When the Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes arrived in Coyoacán, he built this Church on what once was a pre-Hispanic ceremonial site. This was where Cortes held the very first Christian mass in the new land. The building’s exterior has an incredible stonework patterned facade, meant to resemble a the texture of a shell. The restoration taking place is attempting to repaint the church the same canary yellow as it once would have been coloured.

Casa de la Malinche

Walking north along the park, along Higuera street, you’ll pass the Casa de la Malinche. Although not open to the public, this house is thought to have been initially built for Cortés’ Spanish wife, Catalina Juárez de Marcaida. ‘La Malinche’ is the Spanish word for ‘the captain’s woman‘. Catalina Juárez de Marcaida was murdered in this very spot as she was seen to be a traitor to her people and even sometimes blamed for the downfall of the Aztec empire.

Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

Calle de Higuera

Walking along the Calle de Higuera, up towards our next stop, take some time to observe the houses and buildings on either side of the street. This is one of the oldest streets in the city. Many of these homes were built in the colonial era and have been catalogued for their historical value.

Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

Church Interior

The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours.

They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions. The monastery portion of the church is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

Centenario Plaza

Spend some time wandering the two adjoining parks, the Centenario Garden and Hidalgo Plaza. The gated entrance to the Jardin del Centenario is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. It was once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

In the centre of Centenario Plaza is a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below. Underfoot, the street is paved with red and black volcanic stone from Mexico.

Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

Casa Municipal

Across from Hidalgo Plaza, you’ll find the Hernan Cortés house or Casa Municipal. It was built in the 18th century as an administration building for the government. Although called the Cortes house, the conquistador never lived here. He did in fact life in Coyoacán from 1521 to 1522 but never on this property, even though a placard on the building says he did...the original fake news I suppose. Perhaps he simply spent so many hours inside these walls that people simply assumed he must live there.

Cortés resided on a piece of land once owned by the indigenous leader of Coyoacán, Juan de Guzmán Iztolinque, located where we now find La Conchita Church. The current incarnation of the Casa Municipal was built in the 18th century by Cortés’ descendants. The building was where the government of Coyoacán did all their business until 1928 when this district was absorbed as a municipality of Mexico City.

Mercado Artesanal

Across the street from Hidalgo Plaza is the yellow archway entrance to the Mercado Artesanal Coyoacán. While this artist market is less impressive than the Mercado De Artesanias La Ciudadela, the courtyard of the Artesanal market here well worth checking out for the beautiful ‘papel picado’ (pecked paper) which hang from either side of the small garden. The prices in this market are actually very reasonable (sometimes cheaper than in the city centre), but the selection isn’t extensive. I did find some beautiful glass work which I hadn’t seen anywhere though so you really never know what you’ll find. And if this is your only opportunity to visit a market in Mexico City than this is a great opportunity.

Mercado de Coyoacán

Head north along Aguayo and turn down Ignacio Allende where you’ll spot the terra cotta roof tiles of the Mercado de Coyoacán. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, market place was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Market Stalls

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

 

 

 

 

 

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La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Museum

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

Leon Trotsky House Museum

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

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Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick me up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

Le Bipo

If coffee won’t suffice and you’re looking for something a little more intense, head across to Le Bipo, across from Allende Park. This hip bar is a stylish place for an afternoon drink and some great people watching. For something really unique, try the Mauricio Garcés, a mezcal and with frozen pineapple soda, topped with chili powder.

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Churreria General de la Republica

On your way back towards the western part of down, you’ll pass back from through the Jardin Centenario once more. Across from the park is the Churreria General de la Republica which sells some fantastic churros, served up with a variety of dipping sauces. I love a churro but I think I love dipping them even more! If you’re hankering for a snack, this is a great place to stop for a quick break and take a seat in the park.

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La Casa Del Coleccionista

Right around the corner from the churros bakery is La Casa Del Coleccionista. This little shop sells antiques of all kinds. You can find everything from flatware, toys, paintings, vases, coins and more! Even if you don’t leave with anything, this place is like visiting a museum of Coyoacán’s ephemera.

Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

Casa De Diego De Ordaz

One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán.

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Italian Cultural Institute

Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

Parque Santa Catarina

For a quiet break, stop off in the Parque Santa Catarina. The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property.

In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings! There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century.

Frida and Diego Statue

In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. Behind the walls of the garden, to the south, see if you can see the rooftop of La Callejón del Aguacate. This house is one of the most haunted in the Coyoacan. It is said to be haunted by the ghost of a woman and is a frequent place where local school children will be seen ghost hunting after hours.

Barricas Don Tiburcio

Continuing along Avenue Francisco Sosa, stop in at one of the most adorable groceries stores, Barricas Don Tiburcio. This boutique shop sells the finest wines from all around Mexico, if you’re a big wine fan, they are very well versed in the different varieties and can send you home with a real winner. They also sell delicious handcrafted Mexican products such as Oaxaca cheese, grasshoppers, prickly pear candies, peanut jams, queso chihuahua and more!

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Fonoteca Nacional

Towards the end of Avenue Francisco Sosa you’ll come upon the colourful Fonoteca Nacional, also known as the “House of Sounds of Mexico“. This beautiful building and the tranquil gardens which surround it, is the perfect place to come and wander to see if anything is going on. There is often free concerts or exhibitions happening in the various rooms, so it’s worth poking your head inside to see what’s going on.

Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

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Centenario 107

After a long walk through the park, it’s time for dinner. Stop off at Centenario 107 for a laid back, colourful dinner. Colourful both in the atmosphere, decor as well as the food! There is an excellent selection of traditional delicacies as well as local craft beers and speciality mezcals.

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Cineteca Nacional

Our last stop on tour, as the sun begins to set is at the Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives. This 30 screen movie theatre is housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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