Czech Food - The Creative Adventurer https://thecreativeadventurer.com A Travel Guide for Exploring the World Fri, 10 Feb 2023 20:00:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 https://i0.wp.com/thecreativeadventurer.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/cropped-NewCreativeAdventurerLogo_250x250_v1.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Czech Food - The Creative Adventurer https://thecreativeadventurer.com 32 32 171399271 The Best Visitors Guide to the Art Nouveau Interiors of Prague’s Municipal House https://thecreativeadventurer.com/experience-luxury-dining-art-nouveau-aesthetics-in-pragues-municipal-house/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=experience-luxury-dining-art-nouveau-aesthetics-in-pragues-municipal-house https://thecreativeadventurer.com/experience-luxury-dining-art-nouveau-aesthetics-in-pragues-municipal-house/#respond Tue, 01 Sep 2020 12:44:21 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//?p=1400 The Municipal House or Obecni Dum is one of Prague's most iconic Art Nouveau buildings.

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]]> The Municipal House or Obecni Dum is one of Prague‘s most iconic Art Nouveau buildings. I was shocked upon walking in the door that this hidden gem isn’t talked about more online. It’s interiors are so stunning they rival some of the most regal palaces around the world. We had been walking around the Old Town looking for somewhere to eat when our guide recommended Prague’s Municipal House. We were blown away by the beauty and surprised that this dining experience didn’t cost an arm and a leg. Stunning environments and yet accessibly priced menus are a hard combination to find but something which Prague is so great at providing.

Table Of Contents
  1. History
  2. Admission
  3. Access
  4. Art Nouveau Architecture
  5. Interior Room & Halls
  6. Francouzska Restaurant
  7. The Plzenska Restaurant
  8. American Bar
  9. Kavárna Obecní dům Café
  10. Palacký Hall
  11. Grégr Hall
  12. Oriental Lounge
  13. Riegr's Hall
  14. Confectionary
  15. The Smetana Concert Hall and Ballroom

History

The medieval Royal Court of Prague once stood on this site. From 1383 until 1485, the Kings and Queens of Bohemia lived on the square nearby in their magnificent palace. The imperial residences were connected to the Royal Court by the nearby Powder Tower. But after Prague Castle was built, Vladislav II moved the Royal Court out to the newly fortified castle complex. After years of being unused, the old Royal Court building was eventually demolished. 

But in 1905, the city started construction on a Municipal House in the same spot as the previous court. They had it built here as this new building would serve as a modern interpretation of a medieval royal court. The building’s architects Osvald Polívka and Antonín Balšánek, set out to design the most magnificent establishment for high society. It was going to be THE PLACE to hold social events, concerts, parties and even public exhibitions. The architects hired some of the best Czech artists to decorate the interior of the new Municipal Hall. These artists’ work elevated the illustrious building’s status even further, creating a kind of artistic time capsule.

Admission

Inside there are a series of bars and restaurants open to the public. But to explore the entirety of the Municipal House, you must book a guided tour. These tours run in both Czech and English several times throughout the day. There are also handouts in other languages to allow more people to experience the building. The tour route goes from the famous Smetana Hall, through to the Confectionery hall. It then stops inside the Moravian Slovak, Božena Němcová, and Oriental Parlours. Followed by the Grégr, Palacký, Riegr, Sladkovský and most importantly, the Mayor’s Hall! The tour ends inside the American Bar in the basement of the Municipal House. Tickets for the tour cost 200 CZK per adult and reservations are recommended but not necessary.

Access

The Municipal House is located inside the old town and is easily walkable if you’re in the area. The closest metro station is Náměstí Republiky, which is only a four minutes walk from the Municipal House. You can also take trams No. 3, 9, 14, 24 to the Jindřišská stop, a 5-minute walk to the Municipal House.

Art Nouveau Architecture

The Municipal House became an icon for Prague’s fantastic Art Nouveau architecture from the minute it opened. Classical Art Nouveau features included in the building were; asymmetrical shapes, arches and curved forms, a large glass dome, plant-like embellishments, mosaics, stained glass and Japanese motifs. 

Facade

The exterior stonework is intricately carved, with vegetal details blooming from reliefs in every corner. The roof is replete with green and red tiles creating a snakeskin-like effect covering the top of the building. Along the facade are curving, ornate bronze balconies with golden leaves growing throughout.

Dome

The piece-de-resistance of the building is the bright green-domed roof, complete with gold trimmings. It feels like a regal crown on top of the rest of the structure. The dome also contains one of the most pleasing stained glass ceilings, which floods natural light into the concert hall. The dome was made to emphasize the Municipal House as a temple of the arts. 

Entrance

Above the building’s entrance, look up to see a brightly coloured mosaic designed by artists Karel Špillar. This piece is called “Prague Apotheosis.” It represents the oppression and eventual rebirth of the Czech people called. An apotheosis is the “highest point in the development of something; culmination or climax,” represented here in the architecture of Prague’s Municipal House.

On either side of the mosaic are two bronze sculptures. The one on the left is called the “Humiliation of the Nation.” The woman in the center is surrounded in flowing robes, like angel wings. She holds her head to the side, almost as if ashamed to show her face. The sculpture on the right, contrastingly, is called the “Ressurection of the Nation.” This woman stands tall, with a bronze eagle perched on her forearm. The eagle, the symbol of Moravia and the rebirth of the Czech Republic. The Municipal House was built at the very end of the Czech National Revival movement. This cultural event occured during the 18th and 19th century. It’s purpose was to revive the Czech language, culture and national identity.

Before you walk inside, you pass under a splendid wrought-iron canopy, covered in brightly coloured stained glass. The frontispiece a great example of how art nouveau uses every architectural details as an opportunity for ornamentation. The two columns supporting the entrance are topped with two brozen figures. In their are they carry an electric lantern made by Karel Novak. The models appear to mirror the shape of Atlas as he carries the world on his back. Almost as if to say that this building is itself on top of the world.

Interior Room & Halls

Inside the Municipal House, there are so many different places to eat, drink and be entertained. Each one of the rooms and halls inside was named after notable individuals from the Czech culture. You can eat lunch in an elegant French restaurant. Or drink pivo at a traditional Czech beer hall. Perhaps you want to enjoy a slice of cake (or two) at the stylish Czech café, or sip cocktails at the “American Bar“. If you really want to splash out you can attend a first-class concert at the fabulous Grand Concert Hall, all under one roof. All these places are accessible to the public.

If you cannot take a guided tour of the rest of the interiors read the rest of this post. I’ve made sure to talk about the most important rooms inside the Municipal House. This way, if you’re sitting inside the cafe, you can still peruse images of what the rest of the building looks like.

Francouzska Restaurant

If you don’t have time for a concert but are longing to enjoy the elegant art nouveau environment, choose from one of the many dining options inside the Prague’s Municipal House. Francouzska Restaurant is one of the finest culinary experiences you can have in Prague. Golden art nouveau inspired chandeliers pour off the high ceiling. The large windows allow the entire room to fill with light and all the gilt and glass details simply glimmer with excitement.

Throughout the restaurant, you’ll find original furnishings from the beginning of the 1920s. Even the silverware is period-perfect. Throughout the restaurant, you’ll find reproductions of decorative paintings such as “Prague Welcoming its Guest” by J. Wenig and “Hradcany and the New World” by A. Zahel in the salon. Stucco designs of the art nouveau period patterns adorn entertaining diners. Dining here is like entering a living museum. This is the most expensive of all the restaurants in the Municipal House but worth it for the experience. The restaurant is unfortunately temporarily closed until the end of 2020 for renovations.

The Plzenska Restaurant

The Plzenska restaurant, which is on the lower level, is a slightly more affordable option. It is famous for its traditional Czech cuisine and friendly beer hall atmosphere. I think this is truly the best beer hall in the entirety of Prague. It is stunning to look at while also comfortably casual. There is something about the brightly coloured blue tiles set against the rich oak panels and the simple, yet elegant, stained glass that make you feel like you’ve been invited into someone’s prized dining room. The food here is also impeccable. If you have yet to sample any classic Czech meal, this is the perfect place to do so.

American Bar

Also, in the basement is the “American Bar.” Here you can get a well-made cocktail or spirit and enjoy the swish atmosphere of a 1940’s salon. The vaulted room features a vestibule decorated with the picture “Heron” by Mikolas Ales. Several copies of the artist’s famous drawings are also located inside the recesses of the bar. The American Bar was one of the first public establishments which ladies could visit without a male accompaniment and that atmosphere of bohemian freedom is still present today.

Kavárna Obecní dům Café

To finish off your dining options inside the Municipal House, wander into the Kavárna Obecní dům café, on the ground floor. This cafe is considered to be one of the best in the world. Although they are most famous for their desserts, this is also a great place to grab a bite to eat if you’re looking for a good meal at a reasonable price.

All the furnishings from the chandeliers, mirrors and fabulous electric lighting in here was designed by Osvald Polivka, one of the most aesthetically pleasing art nouveau designers of the time.

It’s open late, so it’s a great option to grab that last coffee before heading out for a night on the town, or a nightcap before going to bed (which is more my speed). During the summertime, the patio out front is a charming place to people watch. You can sip your coffee early in the morning watching the locals heading off to work.

Although main courses are delicious, their sweet treats are where they really shine. Homemade cakes make the rounds in glass trolleys so you can see the goods before you buy them. Their cream cake with fresh berries is a incredible creation that will satisfy any palette.

While waiting on your food take some time to wander around the restaurant. Check out the fountain at the back of the cafe with a sculpture of a beautiful Nymph in the center by artist Josef Pekarek.

Tours of the Municipal House

To explore the private rooms throughout the rest of the building, you’ll need to book a guided tour. The tour will take you throughout the Smetana Hall, Confectionery, Moravian Slovak Parlour, Božena Němcová Parlour, Oriental Parlour, Grégr Hall, Palacký Hall, Mayor’s Hall, Riegr Hall, and Sladkovsky Hall. The tours run about twice a day in English and cost 290 Kč for adults.

Mayor’s Room

If you’d rather just read about what’s inside, while you enjoy your meal, I’ve written out the details of the other fantastical spaces inside Prague’s Municipal House. Hidden away behind locked doors, up on the third floor, accessible only by guided tour or private rental, is the great Mayor’s Room. Seeing as this was the room where guests initially would be greeted upon entry, the architects wanted it to feel so awe-inspiring right from the get-go. The architects hired the best art nouveau artists to decorate their interiors, and none were more infamous than Alphonse Mucha himself. Mucha had been charged with painting the interior of this superior room. Mucha not only painted all the murals you see here but also created everything from the decorations to the furniture, curtains and even down to the very last lamp.

Vaults & Lunettes

Each of the vaults holding up the great dome is painted with figures from Czech history framed alongside symbolic images of the civic virtues. The most notable of them is Jan Hus, dressed in his scholarly dark robes, with the beautiful woman of Justice, standing behind him. You can also spot general Jan Žižka painted alongside Fortitude and the Chodové (a Medieval guard) with the image of beady-eyed Vigilance. Jan Amos Komensky is painted with Loyalty, and St. Ludmila and St. Wenceslas are swathed in the arms of Maternal Wisdom.

On the lunettes that encircle the room are various paintings by Mucha detailing different morality themes upon which the Czech culture was built. A darkened image displays the “Holy Mother of a Nation, Accept love and fervour of your son.” A fiery portrait of three people depicts “With Power comes Freedom – with love, Unanimity.” On the right, a haunting painting shows tortured souls lost in the darkness, an image representing the theme “Humiliated and tortured – resurrected, you will be in our homeland.”

On the walls in between each of these murals are silver capitals with women’s faces carved upon them. These faces represent loyalty, fortitude, maternal wisdom, justice, independence, non-submissiveness, vigilance and strength. The embroidery on the curtains here was designed by Mucha himself and features a motif of peacocks abstracted plumed feathers. 

On the walls of the mayor’s hall are a series of armchairs. Inlaid into the backrests are paintings entitled, “The Czech Crown” and the “Weeping over the Destruction of the Homeland” by Alphonse Mucha.

Palacký Hall

To the west of the Mayor’s Room is Palacký Hall. This room is covered in figurative paintings by Jan Preisler. The interior fur shined with art nouveau chandeliers, brass mirrors all in Assyrian style. The Assyrian artistic style is from the ancient world, first appearing in 1500 BCE but breathed new life by the art nouveau period. The style features relief sculptures made in stone.

A bust of Palacký by Josef Václav Myslbek stands in the rooms honouring the Czech historian and politician. Palacký was one of the most influential people in developing the Czech National Revival and called “Father of the Nation.” On the ceiling is a great fresco featuring the scene of a young boy and girl surrounded by a flock of flying birds.

Grégr Hall

Further to the west, we find Grégr Hall. This long room features a large balcony on its left-wing, providing the most stunning views across the city. The room is tiled in artificial marble, giving it a regal, luxurious appearance. On the western wall, we can find a triptych entitled “Songs of love, war and death” by František Ženíšek. There is another triptych called “Life, poetry, death” by the same painter on the ceiling. It’s interesting to see so many death paintings in such a vibrant space, but perhaps this image of impending death allows us to remind us to live life to the fullest.

Oriental Lounge

At the end of Grégr Hall, there is a small staircase leading to the Oriental Lounge. This room features decoration inspired by Islamic-Anatolian art. It was originally known as the Serbian lounge. Anatolia had a strong Byzantine and Armenian Christian heritage, which is visible in its artforms.

Riegr’s Hall

The room, opposite Palacký Hall, called Riegr’s Hall, is embellished with images of notable Czech personalities painted by Max Švabinský. He titled the paintings “Czech Spring” as it features all these different influential men together in imagined scenes of an idyllic springtime. Busts of politicians František Ladislav Rieger by Josef Václav Myslbek are also featured inside this room. The lower half of the room is painted a rich Azul blue and covered in lush blue stuffed benches.

Confectionary

At one point in the building’s history, the Municipal House had its own confectionery and patisserie! It was the largest of the relaxing salons, often called the “ladies’ parlours.” Although no sweet treats are being made fresh inside this room today, it is still one of the most fabulously decorated rooms in the building. Filled to the brim with gilt stucco decorations and oak framed mirrors, the place absolutely sparkles.

The Smetana Concert Hall and Ballroom

The Smetana Concert Hall and Ballroom are located right under the magnificent glass dome. To visit this place outside of being on tour, you’ll need to have booked a ticket to see a performance. The concert hall plays hosts to many musicians and is the home to the Czech National Symphony Orchestra.

Inside this room, you’ll find artwork pieces by Alfonse Mucha, Jan Preisler and Max Švabinský decorating the ceilings and walls. The interior of the concert hall is covered in white stone and gold filigree. The entire theatre is illuminated by hundreds of tiny lights, casting a gentle golden glow upon the people below. The stage is framed by arcing sculptures depicting Vyšehrad legends and Slavic dances. It is truly an honorific place of Czech arts and culture.

iMucha’s Exhibition

Currently on display inside the Municipal House is the iMucha Exhibition. This gallery uses technologies of the 21st century to display numerous of Mucha’s art posters which have been digitally remastered to be displayed with motion. Transforming the static material into a lifelike work of art. The exhibition also presents over 200 artifacts from the artist’s life. Tickets to the exhibition costs 290 Kč for adults but there is a discounted price if you book with a guided tour. Running until March 2024.

If you have the chance to tour Prague’s Municipal House, run, don’t walk, to visit! Don’t let the rather dull name of the building fool you; this place is one of the most outstanding artistic achievements of the Czech National Revival and deserves all your attention. Plus, there is nothing better than dining inside an incredible environment to fill your eyes and mind with wonder and excitement.

Let me know what treasures you discovered in Prague or if you’re planning on visiting the Municipal House for yourself on your next trip!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

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]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/experience-luxury-dining-art-nouveau-aesthetics-in-pragues-municipal-house/feed/ 0 1400 Experience Awesome Hospitality at Hemingway Bar in Prague https://thecreativeadventurer.com/exploring-the-hearty-hospitality-at-hemingway-bar-prague/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=exploring-the-hearty-hospitality-at-hemingway-bar-prague https://thecreativeadventurer.com/exploring-the-hearty-hospitality-at-hemingway-bar-prague/#respond Mon, 24 Aug 2020 14:13:34 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//?p=1401 Explore the concoctions and cocktails inside the dark and mysterious Hemingway Bar, one of the best watering holes in Prague!

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]]> Ernest Hemingway has bars named after him all over the world. You can’t visit a city in Europe where the famous writer seemingly didn’t write the great novel on that very bar stool. I challenge you to google the words “Hemingway Bar” and see if one pops up in your city. Chances are, it will. These watering holes range from pricey joints like in The Ritz in Paris, where drinks can cost upwards of $30 or dive bars run by college students where all your drinks will cost $30. Lucky for us, the Hemingway Bar in Prague is a real gem! While the drinks don’t cost a fortune, the atmosphere looks like they would. It’s a great place to escape your troubles for a few hours and imagine yourself a great writer, waiting to be struck by genius!

Locations & Hours

The Hemingway Bar in Prague can be found down the quiet cobblestone side street, Karoliny Světlé below an unassuming door front. It’s open every day of the week at 5 pm (except Mondays when it opens at 7 pm) and closes between 1, and 2 am.

The Experience

Stepping inside, the first thing you’ll notice is how dark it is. A sparingly few warm lights on the ceiling guide your way, reflecting off the rows of booze bottles behind the bar, like a liqueur library. A few tables throughout the bar are lit with candles, which allow you to barely make out the other patron’s faces. Pictures of Hemingway decorate the walls along with images of patrons from times gone by. 

While there are various tables inside, sitting at the bar is the best place to be. Not only does it give you the chance to chat, but it also lets you watch the bartenders do their stuff. Study them as they effortlessly grab bottles from the bar without even looking at the label. They move like dances around the bar, concocting boozy potions in elegant glasses. 

Cocktails

Ernest Hemingway was a great drinker, in addition to being a great writer. Perhaps the two go hand in hand? But being a seasoned lush, he knew how to make a good cocktail. So much so that he perfected many a recipe throughout his lifetime, and now these concoctions are even named after him. The most famous being the “Hemingway Daiquiri” which is the most popular drink in here. The Hemingway Daiquiri consists of fresh lime, pink grapefruit juice, a dash of syrup, a maraschino cherry, and a 13-year-old-rum. Shockingly, this only cost $10 USD! Other house specialties are the Gin Fizz and their famous Old Fashioned. The best part of their cocktail menu is all the drinks are both imaginative, expertly executed and rooted in history.

I was genuinely shocked by the prices here! Just by the gorgeous appearance of this place, you’d think the drinks would cost a fortune! But they didn’t. It was so much fun getting to try out all different fancy cocktails. I usually would never indulge in fear it would bankrupt me! The bartenders were so cheery, and I loved asking them for suggestions or recommendations. By the end of the night, I felt like we were best friends.

Absinthe

Here in Prague, one of the most popular drinks to try is absinthe, and the Hemingway Bar has an extensive selection to choose from! Absinthe is an anise-flavoured spirit derived from botanicals, including the flowers and leaves of Artemisia absinthium (otherwise known as Wormwood). The liqueur is then mixed with green anise, sweet fennel, and other medicinal and culinary herbs. These herbs are what give the absinthe that iconic green hue.

To drink this beverage properly, you’ll need an Absinthe Fountain. Hemingways has dozens of original glass Absinthe Fountains which are beautiful works of art and heightens the drinking experience. The fountains are essentially a decanter containing the proper mixture of absinthe and ice-cold water. The fountains have multiple spigots that slowly (and hands-free) drip the mix down, over a silver slotted spoon with a sugar cube on top of your glass. The slow drip over the sugar cube allows the flavours to “blossom” in ways they could not if they were poured straight over the sugar all at once. The spoons and glasses are entirely different and little historical treasures which make drinking absinthe a real experience.

Is absinthe safe

“Is absinthe safe?” you might ask. In films, like Moulin Rouge, absinthe is often portrayed as a dangerous hallucinogenic drug. This was thought to be accurate due to the chemical compound thujone present in the spirit in trace amounts. This led to it being banned in the United States and Europe at the start of the 1900s. But in realizing it is no more dangerous than ordinary spirits. However, due to its high alcohol content, it just might get you drunk much much quicker, so drink in moderation!

While absinthe is seen as a very touristy thing to drink in Prague, Hemingways specializes in exceptional absinthe. They carry hundreds of varieties and even have synthesized replicas of historic recipes. The bartenders here are kind and generous with their time to help first-timers properly experience how to drink absinthe. In other bars, drinking absinthe might single you out as a tourist, and you’re more likely to get ripped off. Hemingways understands the draw, and instead of seeing this as a negative, they really try to provide you with the best experience possible.

Cigars

Hemingway was also famously a cigar lover. The bar offers up an array of cigars for you to enjoy along with your drink. We ordered a Cuban, and the bartender expertly cut and lit it for us. After lighting the cigar, he passed us a beautiful vintage ash-tray to get the soot off the bar. It did feel like stepping back in time, the heady smell of tobacco in the air, and ice rattling in thick glass tumblers. 

The bar’s ventilation is as old as it looks, so the smoke hangs in the air. If you’re sensitive to this, you might want to either give this place a miss of just be quick about your time inside. There is a small non-smoking section on the half level. Still, it’s not separated by any walls, so there will always be some carryover.

Hemingways is the perfect place to spend a relaxed evening after wandering this magical city. It felt like the perfect blend of rustic charm but with fantastic hospitality. Don’t miss it!

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]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/exploring-the-hearty-hospitality-at-hemingway-bar-prague/feed/ 0 1401 Free Guide to Prague’s Fairytale Old Town Square https://thecreativeadventurer.com/walking-tour-of-pragues-fairytale-old-town-square-and-world-famous-astronomical-clock/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=walking-tour-of-pragues-fairytale-old-town-square-and-world-famous-astronomical-clock https://thecreativeadventurer.com/walking-tour-of-pragues-fairytale-old-town-square-and-world-famous-astronomical-clock/#respond Mon, 31 Dec 2018 19:42:08 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//walking-tour-of-pragues-fairytale-old-town-square-and-world-famous-astronomical-clock/ One of Prague’s most visited sites is the Old Town Square, in the centre of town. In...

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]]> One of Prague’s most visited sites is the Old Town Square, in the centre of town. In this one square, you’ll find some of Bohemia’s most famous buildings. There is something here for art lovers, historians and foodies alike. The plaza is over 1.7 hectares large with a sprawling history detailing Prague’s gruesome and glorious past. Rotating minstrels still entertain on-lookers, and the square often continues to serve as a place of political protest for locals to give voice to their concerns. Standing in the centre of the square, make a 360° spin to get your bearings and decide on which buildings you might want to take a closer look at or even head inside.

Table Of Contents
  1. Access
  2. History
  3. Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn
  4. Storch House, #16
  5. At the Stone Table, #18
  6. The Golden Unicorn
  7. The Little Square
  8. Restaurant White Horse
  9. Old Town Hall
  10. Prague's Astronomical Clock
  11. The Minute House
  12. Markets
  13. Church of St. Nicholas
  14. Prague Municipal Insurance Company
  15. Kinský Palace
  16. Stone Bell House
  17. Centre of the Town Square
  18. Prague Meridian

Access

The Old Town Square is located between Wenceslas Square and Charles Bridge You can easily reach the square by walking down from “Staroměstská” metro station. If you’re close by, I would always recommend walking if you can, since seeing things along the way is half the fun of visiting Prague. Since the city is so small, walking to your next destination is always an option instead of taking the trams or metro.

History

This the old town square was originally founded in the 12th century as the city’s primary marketplace. Traders from all over Prague and indeed, all over Europe, would travel here to trade goods in one of the most beautiful scenic town centre’s found anywhere. The square is surrounded on all sides by fantastical pastel stucco buildings, notably taller than most historic buildings found in other European cities.

The original Romanesque houses which were built around the square where flooded repeatedly and so the ground was raised 2-4 meters to prevent future flooding. This meant that the only remaining portions of those houses were the basements, the rest of the houses around the square are all from the Gothic, Baroque and Rococo period.

Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn

Start your walking tour of Old Town Square at the Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn. The most imposing building is, without a doubt, this twin-towered church standing guard at the outskirts of the square. The distinctive black Gothic spires loom over the Týn Courtyard and they can be seen all across Prague. The main facade is hidden from the central square by a row of pastel arcade houses which sit nestled under its shadow.

In the 11th century, a large Romanesque church once stood on this site. It was commissioned by the foreign merchants who sold their goods in the Týn Courtyard. The Týn Courtyard still stands today, and you can visit all different merchants and their shops who sell traditional Czech wares. Tyn Church was dubbed “Cathedral of aristocrats” since the merchants who funded the church’s construction were wealthy and wanted a church all of their own. They desired their new building to rival St. Vitus Cathedral on the other river bank inside Prague Castle. Although personally I don’t believe it does, they sure made a good attempt. Construction began as early as 1256 when High Gothic architecture was in its prime. The soaring vertical columns and towers were inspired by St. Vitus Cathedral built by Matthias of Arras.

Two Towers

The two towers which make Church of our Lady so iconic are about 80 meters tall, but they are not symmetrical. One, named “Adam”, is larger than the other, called “Eve”. Between the two towers, is a small, pitched roof. Inlaid on the roof is a golden statue of the “Virgin Mary.”. In one hand she is holding baby Jesus and with the other a sceptre. The child holds in his arms a sphere, symbolising holding the world in his hand. But this is not just any golden statue. When the Hussites gained control of Prague, King George – the Hussite King – had a giant statue of himself created and erected between the two towers. After the Thirty Years’ War between the Bohemians and the Holy Roman Emperor, when the Hussites were defeated, the old statue was melted down to make the new one of the Virgin Mary.

Entry to Our Lady of Tyn

To enter the church, you must head down a narrow pathway and enter through the small door on the northern side of the church. The hidden entrance means that the church is often almost empty since tourists tend to get their picture and go. It’s worth looking inside if you’re an art history buff or love ecclesiastical architecture.

The north portal’s arched doorway contains a 14th-century tympanum with an intricate depiction of the Crucifixion carved into it. It was carved by the workshop of Charles IV’s favourite architect, Peter Parler, who went on to finish St. Vitus Cathedral.

Interior of Our Lady of Tyn

While the exterior is gothic, the interior was renovated in the 17th century and is a Baroque gem. Golden frames, with richly drawn saints, adorn the columns. In the centre of the nave is the elegant altar surrounded by jewel toned painting by Karel Škréta. One of the most famous things to see inside is the tomb of the astronomer Tycho Brahe. He was a Danish astronomer, and court scientist for Rudolf II and his marble tombs portrays a cartoon effigy of himself. The dominating, gold organ inside is the oldest organ in Prague and dates all the way back to 1673.

Storch House, #16

The Storch house, one of the most decorated houses on the square. #16, also named the “the Stone Virgin Mary” is painted with figurative paintings of St. Wecestless, the three Magi, all from the 19th century. Along with the paintings are some exquisitely ornate script.

At the Stone Table, #18

The pale peach house at #18, also named the house “At the Stone Table” was once a famous salon where writers would gather to share their stories and drink the night away. Famously Franz Kafka, Max Brod, Franz Werfel or Egon Erwin Kisch all used to frequent this house.

The Golden Unicorn

The pale blue house on the square, wonderfully named the Golden Unicorn, was once a Romanesque house since converted in 1496 Matěj Rejsek into a monumental tower-like early Gothic palace. The house is most notable for being the first bookstore open to the public in 1838.

The Little Square

Walking south of the Church, head towards the Old Town Hall. As you go, you’ll pass a small grouping of the most elegant houses which make up the “Little Square”. Since the square is a pedestrian only area of the city, you can stroll at your leisure, taking time to look up at all the multicoloured, pastel residences lining the route. Every architectural style can be found here. On the first floor of many of these building, you’ll find various cafes and restaurants. Many of the pubs bear names like ‘At the Stone Ram’, ‘At the Red Fox’ and ‘At the Blue Star’. Since there were no house numbers in the early 17th century, the residents installed signs or plaques with an identifiable character or animal on them to identify which house was theirs.

Restaurant White Horse

Although hugely touristy portions of Prague like this are rife with scams and ripoff restaurants, one of the only good ones on the square is the Restaurant White Horse. Go for the beef goulash and a tall pint of Czech beer to have a traditional luncheon. The prices might be a touch on the high side, but when in the old town square you’re paying for the atmosphere and the environment as well as the food.

 

 
 
 
 
 
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Old Town Hall

Across from The Little Square, you can find the Old Town Hall. Although the town hall is most famous for its astronomical clock, its historic importance and role in the development of the city is nothing to scoff at.

The current town hall is the amalgamation of several old houses which were connected over the years to form one large administration building. In 1338 the councillors bought a large royal house from the family Volflin. In 1458 a house only known as “Mike’s house” was added to the west side. The Gothic “Cock” house was bought in 1835. The “Cock House” still contains a preserved Romanesque hall dating from the beginning of the 13th century.

Prague’s Astronomical Clock

The Astronomical Clock (or Prague Orloj) is one of Prague’s BIGGEST attractions, or at least that’s what the hoards of people crowding around it would make you believe. The clock is housed on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall and has been there, in part, since 1410. Legend says that if something bad were to befall the clock, Prague itself would fall. Although it is just a superstitious rumour, it’s been enough to keep the clock well protected and preserved after all these years.

There are three main parts to the clock. The first is the Dial, which represents the Sun and Moonand their position in the sky. The next is the Sculptures of the Apostles who, upon the hour, perform a little show for the onlookers. They spin around the clock, chased by a statue of death. This is what everyone is waiting to see but let me tell you, this little show isn’t worth fighting your way through the mob. Once the show is over, the crowds disappear, and you get a much better view of the clock itself. The final part is the Calendar Dial. It is surrounded by different medallions representing the various months of the year and their corresponding astrological signs.

The Minute House

The “Minute House” was purchased in 1896. It was a Gothic house from the 15th century, and the exterior is decorated with series of sgraffito designs representing classical and biblical themes. Sgraffito is a form of decoration made by scratching through a surface to reveal a lower layer of a contrasting colour (in this case black and white) typically done in plaster or stucco on walls. The Gothic stone portal is one of the last original aspects of the town hall standing today and serves as the main entrance.

Markets

Throughout the year, many different street vendors set up shop here in the square. They serve a multitude of traditional Czech dishes and are a perfect place to grab a bite to eat. At Christmas time, Prague’s Christmas Markets is erected in the square, drawing hundreds and thousands of people who wander the medieval inspired stalls. In the centre of the square, a large Christmas tree is raised, and bands play throughout the day.

Church of St. Nicholas

The Church of Saint Nicholas sits behind the Town Hall. It’s large green topped towers sit atop the pristine white, Baroque church facade. The church was built in 1732, and it’s interior hosts a lovely array of baroque frescos and sculptures.

Prague Municipal Insurance Company

The custard cream yellow, neo-baroque building facing on the centre of the square is an administrative building of Prague municipal insurance company was built in 1901. Carved onto the facade are various sculptural decorations depicting fire and water, two of the main sources of insurance claims both now and in the 19th century.

Kinský Palace

One of my favourite buildings on the square is the Kinský Palace. It’s pink decorations, and white stucco exterior makes it looks like a frilly, Rococo birthday cake. The palace was originally built for the Golz family in 1755. Along the facade are statues by Ignaz Franz Platzer which represent multiple classical elements.

In 2006, the building was renovated to house the new Czech National Galler Museum. The famous author Franz Kafka was born in Prague and his family history is found throughout the city. His father, Hermann Kafka, was a haberdasher and his first store was located right here on the first floor of the palace.

Stone Bell House

Beside the Kinský Palace, you can find the Stone Bell House. The house is one of the oldest on the square and is one of the only remaining which preserves its original gothic architecture. The buildings now play hosts to a rotating mix of contemporary art exhibits and musical events.

Centre of the Town Square

In the centre of the square is an enormous monument of the religious reformer, Jan Hus. The statue was created to mark the 500th anniversary of his death. Jan Hus was a martyr and burnt at the stake for his beliefs which started the Hussite Wars. A turning point in Czech history.

Jan Jesenius Statue

Across from the Town Hall are the ‘Memorials to the Martyrs’ which include Jan Jesenius and Maxmilián Hošťálek who were beheaded right here during the “Battle of White Mountain”. 27 crosses mark the pavement in their honour. Legend has it that every year, on the date of their execution (June 21st), the dead noblemen return as ghosts and visit the living.

But more than just gruesome things happened here. Since 1311, the square was the site of coronation parades. Hundreds of villagers would come here to celebrate their new leaders, dressed in all their finery, throwing flowers and dancing in the streets.

Prague Meridian

Set amongst the cobblestones on the square, is a rectangular plaque which marks the place, where the former “Marian column” used to stand. The Marian column was once a large baroque design made of sandstone and was created to give thanks for the defence of Prague from the raids of the Swedish troops in 1648. But it also served a functional purpose. The shadow of the column would show villagers high noon. Now a plaque marks the spot and written in both Czech and Latin is says, ” MERIDIAN ACCORDING TO WHICH PRAGUE TIME WHAD BEEN REGULATED IN THE PAST / MERIDIANUS QUO OLIM TEMPUS PRAGENSE DIRIGEBATUR.”

You’re bound to discover something beautiful, something new, something old or something incredible here in Old Town Square. Despite the crowds, it definitely worth a visit. Find a peaceful spot, grab a coffee and saunter to your heart’s content.

The post Free Guide to Prague’s Fairytale Old Town Square first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

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