This tour will take you around some of Prague’s most famous streets and some off-the-beaten-track neighbourhoods. This is one of the most comprehensive guides to Prague’s street signs, and I have done my best to give you some hints at what the signs symbolize and where they can be found in the city! The tour has two parts: the Old Town and Malá Strana (or the Lesser Quarter). Let’s start with our guide to Prague’s Old Town House Signs.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Prague's Old Town House Signs
2. History
3. House Sign Designs
4. Prague's House Sign System
5. Týnská
6. Celetná Street
7. Staroměstské náměstí
8. Malé náměstí 
9. Karlova Street
10. Husova Street

Map of Prague’s Old Town House Signs

History

Identifying houses with symbol signage is an antiquated practice that dates back to ancient Egypt. The oldest house sign, made with stone relief, was documented in Ptolemaic Egypt (Giza), dating back to the 3rd century BC. Hundreds of years ago, being able to read was a skill only the nobles or academics possessed. Since most citizens could not read, craftsmen used symbols to identify their businesses so people could find goods and services around town. 
The oldest house signs in Prague, a city steeped in history, date back to the early part of the 14th century. These signs, initially used to identify occupations, later evolved to distinguish the surname of the home’s owner. This system remained in place until 1770, when Bohemia finally adopted the official numbering system. Prague’s late adoption of this system preserved many of these signs, providing a tangible link to our past.

House Sign Designs

The oldest house signs were made of stone and carved with various reliefs. In the baroque age, these signs were made of stucco and plaster. Baroque designs were also painted onto plaster cartouches or tablets and placed onto the facade. Finally, in the later 18th century, the signs were made of metal or wood, more resilient against the elements. These signs were also sometimes hung off the sides of the buildings or placed on boards so that the signs could be more easily replaced should the house be sold off. Because there were only so many different symbols that could be used, sign makers would employ different coloured combinations. This would ensure people could tell the difference between establishments.

Prague’s House Sign System

Prague went through two different numbering systems when the city was enumerated. You can still see both of these numbering systems identified on the front of each house. On each house, two number plates are printed; one on a red plate and the other on a blue plate. The numbers in red are called “descriptive” numbers and date back to 1770. These red numbers seem placed haphazardly as the numbers don’t proceed sequentially from house to house. This is because when the soldiers were designating house numbers, they allocated the following number in the sequence to the newest house built. They did not base the numbers on the following geographic location. So even if your house was far from the previous house on the street, you’d receive the following number in the sequence. 

The blue numbers, however, are instead based on geographic orientation. These were installed when the city was renumbered in the late 19th century. Interestingly, they kept the old red numbering system up despite its confusing nature—another quirky bit of charm which makes Prague such an exciting city.

Týnská

Týnská is one of the oldest streets in the Old Town of Prague. It is located behind the Church of Týn, where it derives its name. The road was initially occupied by foreign merchants. Týnská was located close to the nearby customs office, where merchants had to pay fees and taxes for anything imported. This process would often be quite lengthy, so the merchants needed a place to stay while they waited for their taxes to be calculated. And so the street quickly became a hotbed of inns and lodging houses for the merchants.

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Týnská 632/10, The Three Feathers

The Three Feathers at #10 Týnská is one of the oldest in the lane, built in the 13th century. From 1405 until the 1600s, it was used as a brewery. The Three Feathers represented on the house symbol are a reference to the crest of John of Luxembourg. John of Luxembourg was the King of Bohemia in the 14th century. Since the feathers were drawn from the royal crest, we can assume that perhaps the brewery would have been linked to the court and maybe was their official brewer.

Týnská 6, The Golden Ring

In the center of the house at #6 is a giant Golden Ring, installed in the 17th century. But the house had stood here since the 14th century when it operated as a beer hall. The legend around the ring states that one of the old town ghosts dropped it while passing through the street on one of their nightly haunts. When the beer hall owner discovered it, she hung the ring above her door. Rings, as a closed circle symbol, provide mystical protection against evil. Being a beerhall owner in the Middle Ages was undoubtedly dangerous, so a little bit of good luck couldn’t hurt. The legend was so popular that by the 17th century, the new owner dedicated the name of the house and the newly created house sign to the Golden Ring.

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Celetná Street

Before heading into the old town square, we quickly detour over to Celetná Street. Celetná is named after a famous bread baked in this area during the Middle Ages. As bakeries fed the entire town, they became one of the most important places in the city, like our modern-day grocery stores. Whether you were a peasant, priest or prince, everyone came here to get their daily loaf. Celetná Street would find itself at the start of the Royal Route in the 14th century. The Royal Route was the pathway the king’s procession would travel along during the new royal coronations.

Celetná 29, The Golden Angel

Still a hotel to this day, the Golden Angel was built in 1788 as a private hotel. Inside these doors, some of the most illustrious guests in Prague would lie their heads. It hosted Kings and Queens for hundreds of years until it became a public hotel in the 20th century. Mozart and then Bakunin even stayed here! The house symbol features a golden angel holding a cornucopia and laurel wreath in their hands. The angel is known as a messenger of God. The gifts the angel bears in their arms represent God’s rewards for Christians who keep the faith even during hard times. 

Celetná 21, At the Red Eagle

The original house, which once stood here, was built in a high Gothic fashion in the Gothic period. The current house At the Red Eagle was built in 1725 the Classical style. For many years, the house was owned by Charles University. It was here that many of the school’s professors and faculty would have stayed while teaching on campus. Charles University was started by Emperor Charles IV. Perhaps, for this reason, the symbol on the building incorporates the imperial eagles, with the sword and spear in their hands.

Celetná Street 10, At the White Peacock

The house At the White Peacock features a stunning rococo exterior. Each one of their windows is dripping with flowery stucco decorations. The facade’s central focus is a stucco carving featuring a lovely white peacock set against a pale blue backdrop. We cannot study these symbols in Prague without talking about alchemy. The city of Prague was one of the centers of alchemical study during the 16th century. The influence of this magic spread all over town. Many people come to Prague just to explore the alchemical trail. 

Philosopher’s Stone

The creation of the Philosopher’s Stone, a concept not confined to the realms of fiction but deeply rooted in history and alchemy, is a journey that connects us to the past. Also known as the elixir of eternal life, this substance was the ultimate goal of every alchemist. To create the Philosopher’s Stone, one had to navigate through several intriguing stages. The first stage, blackening, involved working with a dark, impure base material.

The second stage, albedo, is the purification process, where an object transforms and becomes white or pure. For alchemists, peacocks represented that method of creation. Peacock feathers look like a rainbow, and in science, white light is created when all the colours of the rainbow combine. Peacocks are also known to represent protection and watchfulness. This is due to their feathers, which appear like an eye. So perhaps the alchemists are telling us that they are still watching us. 

Celetná 8, At the Black Sun

At #8 Celetná, you will find a large early Gothic house with a rather plain baroque facade. But the real star of this house is the stone archway. The large wooden doors are surrounded by a sturdy stone arch. Above the archway is the relief, which gives the place its name, “The ‘Black Sun.” As a symbol, the Black Sun would be coopted by Prague’s nazis hundreds of years later. When it was carved here, I noticed the sign had a different meaning. In the early medieval period, the ‘black sun’ referred to the first stage of the alchemy trail, called the “blackening.” It is interesting to note that the alchemical trail’s first two stages are located beside each other. No houses on this street are dedicated to the different steps, the Citrinitas or Yellow Stage and the final stage, Rubedo or the Red Stage.

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Týnská 3/629, At the Black Elephant

This sizeable gothic hotel, a silent witness to the passage of time, has stood on the corner of the street since the 14th century! Some of their wine cellars still bear the historic gothic vaultings from the original construction. For hundreds of years, the house has been an inn and hotel, a place where history was made and still welcomes guests to Prague today. Legend has it that the Czech King and Roman Emperor Charles IV was born just a few houses down, a fact that would have undoubtedly drawn a crowd of royal guests to the inn.
The hotel saw famous guests like Tycho Brahe, Mr. Vaclav Havel and Mrs. Albright. Much of the house’s original structure, including the historic house sign, has been preserved. A small stone sign with the rudimentary image of an elephant carved upon it marks the property. The elephant is nestled inside a shield topped with a small castle tower. The symbol of an elephant carrying a building is often used as a symbol of wealth.

Staroměstské náměstí

Staroměstské náměstí, or Old Town Square, was first established in the 13th century. It was used as the Old Marketplace for the citizens of Prague. As time passed, the square’s importance grew, eventually transforming the area around it into one of Prague’s most sought-after real estate locations. Some of Prague’s most unbelievable historical buildings surround the Old Town square. Within them are some great examples of House Symbols.

Staroměstské náměstí 605/13, At the Stone Bell

The house At the Stone Bell has one of Prague’s few remaining medieval facades. While many houses might be just as old, many facades have seen multiple renovations over the years. The house was once the palace of King John of Luxemburg and his wife, Eliška Premyslide. When John took power over Prague, he found the old royal palace to be uninhabitable, so he went about creating his new royal palace here in Staroměstské náměstí. While many royal palaces contained a private chapel, this house surprisingly contained two chapels! 

The house sign of the stone bell was installed in 1413. You can see it if you look closely right at the corner of the building. Bells are known to represent the voice of the angels. As the palace had two chapels, one can imagine that the King was a very spiritual man and wanted his house symbol to reflect that. It is also thought that the bell is meant to represent the arrival of King John to Bohemia.

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Staroměstské náměstí 10, Golden Cross House

This gorgeous pale pink building has one of the most fantastical house signs right on the house’s pinnacle. The building has beautiful, rich stucco designs with vines and floral motifs. The heraldic crest of Prague is set into the doorway, a three-towered castle with a soldier’s arm sticking out of the gates. But this is not the symbol we are searching for.

Up top, there is a huge relief set into the triangular tympanum. A shining golden sun with a cross in the middle acts like a beacon above the rest of the Old Town Square buildings. This cross highly resembles the military design of the Star of the Grand Cross of the Iron Cross, the highest military decoration of the Kingdom of Prussia and the German Empire. The Iron Cross went on to be used as military decoration during the Nazi empire, and its use faded after that. 

Staroměstské náměstí 551/17, House at the Stone Lamb

Along Staroměstské náměstí, stop at #551/17, where you’ll find the house At the Stone Lamb. This house is located on what was once the ‘Royal Way.’ The route starts at Republic Square and passes Prague’s most impressive sights, ending at Prague Castle. Many prospective alchemists came to the city of Prague in the hopes of meeting the Emperor. They would often stay in this house, previously a hotel, as its proximity to the royal way was thought to show reverence to the Emperor.

The house that contained the hotel had two names: House At the Stone Lamb and House At the Stone Unicorn. Both titles came from the relief carved on the building’s front between the first and second floors. The carving indeed looks like a lamb, but the single horn on its head would denote a unicorn. No one seemed to have been able to agree on one answer, so it is known interchangeably.

Staroměstské náměstí 550/18, At the Stone Table 

This stunning Romanesque house was rebuilt in the high Baroque style in 1724 and is notable for the incredible stucco decorations around the windows. A huge fresco of St. John the Merciful is on the facade surrounded by a lavish stucco frame. The building was transformed into a literary salon by the Fant sisters. It became a popular spot with Prague’s literary and scientific elite. The name is because of the 15th-century owner, George of Poděbrady, who used it as a foreign exchange office. St. John was a good choice for the house sign as John devoted himself to charitable works and made regular payments to poorhouses.

Staroměstské náměstí 20, At the Golden Unicorn

The pale blue building on the square is called the House at the Golden Unicorn. This is another Romanesque building that was converted into a palace in 1496. Beneath each window, you’ll find a beautiful lily carved into the stone, dating back to its baroque renovation in 1712. In 1781, the building was purchased by W. Ch. Gerle, who opened it up as Prague’s first public reading room. In 1791, Czech composer Bedřich Smetana purchased the building, which turned it into a music school. The house also served as Ludwig van Beethoven’s residence in 1796 when he came to Prague.

Although the house is officially called the “Golden Unicorn,” it has also been called the House at the White Horse and the House at the Red Door. Each one of these names comes from previous house signs, which would have marked the location. Today, the house symbol is a beautiful golden relief of the Madonna, which sits between the windows on the second floor. Unicorns are often associated with virginity, and as the Madonna was a virgin herself, the nickname of the house is no doubt taken from that correlation.

Staroměstské náměstí 24/480, At the Red Fox or Golden Wolf

A few doors down, we find the house At the Golden Fox. The house is also sometimes called the House of the Golden Wolf. The Romanesque structure was rebuilt in the Gothic style, but the current appearance is from the Baroque era. The original sign here was replaced during the Baroque renovations in place of a golden relief of the Virgin Mary. One can only imagine what the previous sign would have looked like, but we know that red foxes symbolize unpredictable change and awareness. Undoubtedly, the owner would have installed the sign during a period of upheaval in Prague’s history, hoping his business would improve for it.

Staroměstské nám 2/3, At the Minute (At the White Lion)

This building is one of the oldest on the square, built in the late gothic style. The most attention-grabbing part of the facade is the rich Mannerist sgrafitto applied like bands around the exterior. The paintings represent Ancient Greek and biblical themes as well as Renaissance legends. A veritable snapshot of the morals of the time. The white stone sculpture of a lion is located on the corner of the building, which gives the house its name. The building was originally the old town hall, fitting as the symbol of the lion, representing justice and military power.

U Radnice 8, The Green Frog

Above the Hotel U Tri Bubnu entrance is a little symbol of a green frog. This marks the house At the Green Frog. This building is part of an extensive series of medieval structures connected to form this large complex opposite the Old Town Square. In the 15th century, a tailor ran his shop out of this house. He was well known for creating fantastical outfits for Bohemian circus performers.

One day, while working on a costume, his maid came in to clean up his studio. She thought she saw a giant green frog and heard the scream of the tailor erupting from the frog’s belly. She ran for help, but they burst out laughing when the town’s guard showed up. It wasn’t a giant frog but the tailor in a green suit. The tailor tried his own acrobatics performance and got his legs stuck behind his head, making him look like a frog while in this giant green costume. The hilarious story spread throughout the town. Instead of being embarrassed, the tailor took on the frog as a symbol of his shop, seeing as he was already getting the free press!

Malé náměstí 

Malé náměstí or the “small courtyard,” is a triangular square located a few steps away from Old Town Square. While small, the court contained several prominent buildings from the Middle Ages that everyone frequented. These included the famous hardware store, a locksmith and a pharmacy. Despite its small stature, this area of town even made it onto the Royal Route.

Malé náměstí 12, The Golden Lily

As a French merchant group settled this area, it’s no surprise we find evidence of their heritage. House #12, called the Golden Lily, was built in the Gothic period but renovated in 1698 in a high baroque style. The fleur-de-lis, or lily, was mentioned as being the house symbol as far back as 1405! This makes it one of the oldest house symbols in Prague. The building was originally the town pharmacy. Since the lily represents purity and fertility, it is an excellent symbol for the pharmacy. This pharmacy supplied medication to the court and the king. This is perhaps why the emblem was coated in gold to make it stand out as the “royal” pharmacy, not to be confused with those “common” pharmacies.

Malé náměstí 13, At the Golden Crown

In the 15th century, the pharmacy moved next door to #13 later. When it did so, it took on the name “At the Golden Crown” and had a huge regal crown emblem to match. The crown’s design resembles the great Bohemian Crown of St. Wenceslas, an iconic Czech jewellery piece. Ironically enough (or perhaps by design), the building currently serves as a fancy jewellery shop. Take a peek inside, as the interior retains some of the antique pharmacy furniture and decor.

Malé náměsti 14/956, At the Little Black Horse

The house near the corner is called the Little Black Horse (although the horse is now painted a beautiful midnight blue). The house dates back to the 16th century when it served as a boarding house. When it was first built, the house was much larger, spread around the corner and contained a 40-horse stable. Having a large stable meant nobles could rest their horse near where they slept and not have to walk long distances between the inn and the stables.

Karlova Street

Karlova Street is a pedestrians-only street that connects a small square to the Charles Bridge. It is named after Charles IV and was an essential part of the Royal route.

Karlova Street 48/455, At the Golden Crown

The house on the street corner, painted terracotta red, is one of two gothic palaces that have since been joined together. The facade bears the late 18th-century reconstruction and classicist style. On the front of the house is the large house symbol of a great golden crown carved in stucco. The house sign is originally from the 16th century. For over 200 years, the house served as a pharmacy.

Karlova 28, At the White Shoe

The House at the White Shoe is an old gothic house with a Renaissance facade. Above each window is a series of three adorable little blooming roses. The house sign on the front depicts an old shoe, which is traditional. This was undoubtedly an old shoemaker or cobbler shop and would have been where many of Karlova’s elite would have come to get their shoes fixed. Back then, owning a pair of shoes was costly, so people would have them fixed up rather than just buy a new pair.

Seminarska 6, At the Black Star

As we walk along Karlova, turn up Seminarska Street for a quick detour. This ancient house at #6 dates back to 1538 and has retained its Gothic and Renaissance appearance. The name “Seminarska” means Seminar Street. This street would have once been where the priestly seminary was, close to the nearby Clementinum. Although the building looks like it is made of large stones, this is merely sgraffito (carved stucco) to give the appearance of a costly stone facade. The Black Star, with eight points, is where the house gets its name. The Black Star symbolizes female deities since the planet Venus (often associated with female gods) has eight-year cycles.  

Seminarska 2, House of the Golden Well

You find the house at the Golden Well just down the road from the Black Star. This house contains the oldest foundations in the Old Town, dating back to the 12th century! Just as the home of the Black Star relates to the female spirit, so does this house. Right in the facade’s centre is a golden star with the Madonna and child’s image in the middle. Once more, this star has eight points. Perhaps this hints at the fact that this entire street was dedicated to female pursuits. Surrounding the star are stucco figures of St. Wenceslas, St. Jan of Nepomuk, St. Roch, St. Sebastian, St. Ignatius of Loyola, St. Francis Xavier and St. Rosalia.

Karlova 18, House at the Golden Snake

The blood-red building on the corner of Karlova and Liliová Street bears a beautiful house number featuring a golden snake with a crown on his head and the figure of a tiny human in his mouth. The ancient symbol of a snake regurgitating man is a symbol of fertility. The house was originally the first cafe in Prague and is still open as a traditional Czech restaurant today.

Karlova Street 20/180, At the Blue Pike

According to a popular legend, the house called At the Blue Pike was one of Prague’s first pubs. The pub was so popular that it was even frequented by Wenceslas IV and his court magician Žito.

Karlova Street 14/183, The Stoned Siren

At #183, we can see the motif of a beautiful mermaid carved into the stone on the corner of the house. The symbol dates to 1439. Mermaids are the embodiment of the sacred feminine. One can imagine that the previous owners may have been involved in businesses for women or employed women. In Greek mythology, a siren is a dangerous creature that enchants sailors with her voice, causing them to be shipwrecked on the shore near their lair. Many people also think the siren story is an allegory for how prostitutes lead men to poverty.

Liliová 5, the Vorechovsky house

Liliová Street was an old pathway used as far back as the early Middle Ages, which connected Vyšehrad (the old royal palace) to the Vltava ford. As such, it was a significant street for traders. Dům U Voříkovských, or the Vorechovsky house, is on the corner of the road. The name of the place comes from the knight Jan Bohuslav Voříkovský of Kundratice, who was the mayor of Prague. The house sign on the front is a beautiful but faded late Renaissance painting of the Escape to Egypt. The story from the Gospel of Matthew details how an angel appeared to Joseph in a dream, telling him to flee to Egypt with Mary and the unborn baby Jesus. The angel warned him that King Herod would seek to kill the child. 

The neighbourhood where the house was constructed in the 14th century was dominated by the Dominicans who lived at the church of St. Anny. Therefore, having a religious symbol above your door would keep you in line with the other neighbours. Below the painting is a little carving of a hand holding a piece of fruit, just on the vault’s apex leading into the house.

Liliová 12/246, At the Golden Hare

At #12 Liliová Street, we find a tiny little house sign. Set against an emerald background is a beautiful little golden rabbit. The house is a lovely example of early Baroque residential architecture. Rabbits and hares have been associated with fertility.

Řetézová 8/245, At the Black Boot

Head back up, Liliova, and cross over to Řetězová Street. At the house at #8, we find an old black boot set against a blood-red background. This house is named At the Black Boot. Unlike the fancy shoe carving we found along Karlova Street, this is an example of a commoner cobbler shop.

Jalovcová 1, At the Three Silver Roses

The old townhome on the corner of the street bears the insignia of three black roses with the words “U tří stříbrných růží” above them, which stands for the house “At the Three Silver Roses.” Originally, the building was two smaller Gothic houses that joined together in 1405, when it became a brewery. In 1806, Václav Kramerius, a Czech publisher, journalist, writer, and one of the most important early figures of the Czech National Revival, bought the house for himself.

Here, he could print and publish books in the Czech language, a first for the city. Despite the name being silver, the colours of the roses are black. Black roses symbolize significant change, perfectly fitting for Kramerius, who wanted to bring change to Prague by using the native Czech language. It has been renovated into a brewery to embrace its historical roots.

Husova Street

Husova Street is named after famed Czech theologian and philosopher Jan Hus. It is said that Hus attended school on the road at No. 71, so the street was named after him.

Husova 12, The Three Standard-Bearers

The house sign at #12 is not easily missed. Unlike the small carvings above doorways, the Three Standard-Bearers’ house sign is a huge marquee splashed across the facade. Three almost lifesized figures are painted onto plaques that stand atop the first floor of the building. These paintings date back to the 19th century. The original building, constructed in 1580, was previously known as the “Three Angels.”  

The legend of these three characters goes back to the 1730s. Three men who were best friends each were conscripted to a different division in the army. They each agreed to meet back here at this spot after the war was over. Two of them came back and waited for the third. When they finally saw him walking down the street, as he approached, the other two discovered that the man was a ghost, killed in battle. The spirit warned the other soldiers of their impending deaths. Thinking this meant they would be killed in action, the soldiers left the army and joined the nearby monastery. But there is no running from death, and the two friends died within the year of a disease which spread inside the Franciscan monastery of Our Lady of the Snows.

Husova 13, House of the Three Ducks

On the corner of Husova and Řetězová, we find one of the original medieval houses. Although the appearance has changed over the years, it maintains its square floor plan. Above the doorway is an embossed house sign with three ducks carved onto it. Ducks symbolize caring, nurturing, comfort, and fertility. 

Husova 15, House of the Blue Grapes

At number 15 on Husova Street, we have this charming baby blue-painted house. The house dates back to 1370 and is one of the oldest places on the road. The current baroque facade dates back to the 1700s. The large house sign on the front gives the building its name, House of the Blue Grapes. The carving is made up of the image of two men carrying a giant bunch of blue grapes. This sculpture was made in the 18th century by famed Czech sculptor Josef Malinský. The two men are thought to be Joshua and Caleb, returning from Eshcol’s valley to the waiting Israelites. The story’s moral is that God keeps his promises if you follow his word.

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Husova 17, House of the Golden Tiger

In the Middle Ages, tigers were thought to represent the cruelty of war. Thus, tigers were not a very popular symbol for house signs as they were almost taboo. But this taboo eventually caught on as a trendy subversion. It became avant-garde for European cafes to use these animals as their house symbols. This cafe first used a black lion as their house sign. It wasn’t until 1713 that it became known as the House of the Golden Tiger and was fitted with the matching symbol. Some of the Czech Republic’s most famous writers, politicians and artists have frequented the Golden Tiger. It became almost a creative workshop for the city and was full of creative energy!

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Husova 18/157, At the Golden Horse

This 15th-century house was rebuilt in the classicist style in 1804 but still displays the beautiful frescoed house sign. The House at the Golden Horse depicts a beautiful golden horse running across a blue and green landscape. Horses are known to symbolize freedom, but this horse most likely was used to indicate a stable where people could store their horses on the way into the city.

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Michalská 13/439, At the White Hare

At house number #13, we find the house At the White Hare. The gothic construction with classicist reconstruction contains a fresco of the rabbit jumping across the plains in a small painting above the doorway. White hares and rabbits were sometimes the symbols of innocence and purity.

Michalská Street 19/436, Iron Gatehouse

Michalská Street was named after the Church of St. Michael the Archangel, built here in the second half of the 12th century. The Iron Gatehouse was built in 1519 and contained a beautiful fresco above the doorway depicting Samson at the Gate of Gaza. This story involves Samson sleeping with a prostitute when visiting the city of Gaza. His enemies planned to surprise him at the city’s inner gates and attack him in the morning. But Samson arose at midnight and destroyed the city’s colossal stone doors in an act to humiliate and oppose the Gaziites. Without city gates, the city was vulnerable to attack. This story from the bible portrays Samson as the flawed hero and is thought to prove that God’s plan is sometimes achieved with all kinds of people, not just the pious.

Kožná 475, The House at the Two Golden Bears

Before turning down Melantrichova, look at the house on the corner of Kožná. The building was constructed in 1567 and is known as the house at the Two Golden Bears. Court architect Bonifaz Wohlmut designed the wonderfully detailed stone portal in the 16th century. The two bears, one light smaller than the other, are said to represent the Great Bear (Ursa Major) and Little Bear (Ursa Minor) constellations.

Beside each of the bears is a knight that kneels beside them, holding a branch in their hands. The man on the left is slightly larger than the man on the left. These two figures represent old age and youth. The branch the older man is holding is beginning to dry out, while the branch in the younger man’s hand was once painted with green paint to show off its new growth. You can read this as an interpretation of the cycle of life. But there is another reading of this house sign, which symbolizes the alchemist’s creation of the elixir of life. Perhaps the young man isn’t ageing at all, but the old man is becoming young again after drinking the elixir of life!

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Melantrichova 11, House of the Five Crowns  

Melantrichova Street was named after the Czech Renaissance printer and publisher Jiří Melantrich, who lived in Prague from 1511 to 1580. The house at #11 is a Gothic structure with a Renaissance facade. Along the front, sandwiched between the second and third-floor windows, are a series of carved crowns, which give the house its name, House of the Five Crowns. Seeing as the crowns are repeated, it is clear that whoever lived in this house wanted their royal status to be at the forefront of every visitor’s mind when they approached.

Rytirska 16, The Blue Rose 

Rytířská Street was one of the medieval streets where jousting tournaments took place as part of the celebrations during the coronation of Charles IV. This tradition would continue for hundreds of years. The street was also used as a large marketplace. The western part of the road was known as the egg market, and the eastern part was known as the goose market. The U Modré růže house, or the Blue Rose, was established here in 1364. The gothic tower, which remains in place, is one of the more unique aspects of the house. Above the original doorway is a carving of a beautiful blue rose in a cartouche. Blue roses are known to symbolize unrequited love or love lost. Perhaps the house owner had the symbol made in honour of a love lost.

Na Můstku 4, Samuel’s House

Stop at house #4 on Na Můstku street. This house, called the Samuel’s House, is an odd shape, with one edge jutting out from the rest. This is because two older homes were joined together to form one building. You’ll find the tremendous baroque house sign at the corner of the join, a sculpture of Samuel anointing David as he becomes king. The 16th-century owner of the home had this installed as his first name was Samuel.

Na Můstku 6/381, At the Two White Pigeons

This beautifully bright white terraced gothic house has the most wonderful oval cartouche displaying the house sign above the front entrance. Two small white pigeons are set against a sky-blue background that give the house its name. Surrounding the insignia is a richly decorated stucco frame set against the baroque facade, dating back to the 1840s. Pigeons are often associated with the Holy Spirit. They are sometimes regarded as a symbol of pure, innocent, and true things. But when we see two pigeons together like this, it symbolizes true love and commitment as pigeons and doves mate for life.

Října 378, The Bee Hive

In medieval times, the house we see at #378 on Října was a series of small homes. Later, in the 16th century, the townhomes were joined to form this large palace. In 1789, a beeswax maker named Nicholas Fischer took ownership of the property and called it the Bee Hive. He remodelled the house in high baroque fashion and added his house symbol to the top, a stunning golden beehive made in stucco. The tiny bees which appear to fly in and out of the hive are incredibly charming. The beehive symbol is strongly connected to the Freemasons as the hive represents the lodge or meeting place for the members. Many people suspect the beeswax business was just a front for the Freemasons.

This brings us to the end of the tour in the Old Town. You can continue the tour of the Mala Strana House signs by heading across the Vlatava River to the western side of town. Feel free to end the tour here and continue exploring the old city’s wonder. And continue the second part of the tour another day! Let me know in the comments what your favourite house sign was or what your house sign would be if you were to have one.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

Resources

Pamatkovykatalog | Kralovskacesta | Wiki Commons (Images)

The post Ultimate Walking Tour of Prague’s Old Town House Signs first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

If you’ve visited Prague, there is no doubt you will have come across Mucha’s work. He is one of the most prolific Czech painters in the world, and the city LOVES his paintings and posters. They seem to appear on every street corner and postcard in Prague. His famous prints have become so popular they are often sold at University Poster fairs and cover the walls of hundreds of dorm rooms around the world.

Mucha’s Art Nouveau

His style of art is quintessentially Art Nouveau. Most of his more commercial works feature images of beautiful young women in flowing dresses surrounded by lush flowers. He kept the tones for these advertorial pieces in pale pastels, typical of the art nouveau style. But the ‘Slav Epic’ is something completely different. A departure from his commercial work and something genuinely personal to the artist. If you are interested in learning more about the Slavic people and their history, this is an immersive and exciting way to do it!

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Where to Find the Artwork

I am SO EXCITED to finally get to update this blog with the new locations for the Slav Epic. When I visited Prague in 2015, I didn’t know I would be one of the last people to see the Slav Epic in person. I caught the exhibition just a few months before it closed. Until the end of 2016, the Slav Epic was housed in the National Gallery’s Veletržní Palace in Prague.

Moravský Krumlov

Originally, the canvases were exhibited in the city of Moravský Krumlov. They were displayed in the castle and remained a precious treasure of the town for over 50 years. Then, the city of Prague contested that the painting had been left to them by Mucha in the first place. And they shouldn’t be displayed so far away from where most tourists visit. But Prague had no space suitable for showing all these incredibly large works of art. You almost need an airport hanger! The city of Moravský Krumlov felt the paintings needed an appropriately regal and elevated space. They wanted them to be displayed inside the old palace of Moravský Krumlov, where they felt like they belonged. 

Political Battle over the Paintings

In 2012, the city of Prague eventually won the right to display the works. They found a temporary space for them in the National Gallery’s Veletržní Palace. But this space was only to house them for four years. After 2016, the paintings were boxed up, and a political battle between Prague and Moravský Krumlov erupted again. No one could agree on where they would be displayed. They travelled to Japan for international exhibitions, but when they returned, they sat in storage.

Finally, in 2020 the Prague City Council decided to return the paintings to the château in Moravský Krumlov. They will be on display here until 2026. After returning to their original home, the canvas exhibition spaces were repaired to better showcase these incredible works of art.

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Access & Admission 

As the exhibition takes place in Moravský Krumlov, most visitors will arrive via Prague, Vienna or nearby Brno.

The train from Prague to Moravský Krumlov takes about 4 hours (with one transfer.) After arriving at the stations, you can hop on a bus which will take you to the entrance to the castle. If you are travelling from Vienna, the journey is slightly shorter, only 3 hours on the train. The shortest trip will be from Brno, as it is only 1 hour on the train.

Tickets

It’s best to purchase tickets in advance to ensure you won’t be disappointed that they are sold out when you arrive.

Prices: Adults 250 CZK, Seniors 65+ 170 CZK, Students 10-25 years old 150 CZK

Hours

January–May:  9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m. (last entry at 3 p.m.)
June–August:  9:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m. (last entry at 4 p.m.)
September–December  9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m. (last entry at 3 p.m.)
all year round: closed on Mondays

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The Size Paintings

Seeing the paintings for the first time in person, you’re immediately awestruck by the sheer size of these canvases. They feel more like walled frescos than simple pictures. Moments are frozen in time, captured in life-sized (and in some cases, larger than life) works of art. Each of the paintings depicts the history of the Slav people, their civilization, wars, and celebrations. The next thing you’ll notice about these paintings is how the people represented differ from Mucha’s other works. These are not the languid, sensual forms of Mucha’s commercial art nouveau posters. These deftly painted scenes profoundly portray the emotions and collective journey of the subjects in each brushstroke.

About Alphonse Mucha

Alfons Maria Mucha, although better known internationally as Alphonse Mucha, was a Czech painter born in 1860. He born in the small town of Ivančice in southern Moravia. Mucha showed an aptitude for painting very early on. He received his secondary education at the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul in Brno. He was accepted into the arts school firstly as he was also an accomplished singer. Mucha was famously quoted as saying, “for me, the notions of painting, going to church, and music are so closely knit that often I cannot decide whether I like church for its music or music for its place in the mystery which it accompanies.” The dramatic scenes in many religious paintings undoubtedly influenced the art he would later go on to make. 

Mucha in Vienna

At 19 years of age, Mucha travelled to Vienna. There he became an apprentice scenery painter for theatre companies. His flair for the dramatic would continue to be influenced through these explorations. After his apprenticeship, Mucha moved back to Moravia. There he was employed by Count Belize to create portraits, decorative art and lettering for tombstones. Belasi saw Mucha had real talent. He wasn’t just an everyday artist. Belasi brought Mucha with him on his trips to Venice, Florence and Milan. There he was able to introduce him to many more professional artists.

Mucha in Paris

Eventually, Mucha moved to Paris in 1888 and started to professionally study art at the Académie Julian and Académie Colarossi. These schools specialized in studying female nudes and figurative paintings. As well as historical and religious art.

While in Paris, Mucha lived inside the Slavic community boarding houses who famously sheltered struggling artists. It was perhaps living within this community that endowed Mucha to the Slavic people even more. Mucha’s first large client was the Central Library of Fine Arts. It was from here that his career as an illustrator and graphic artist took off. He successfully made a life for himself in Paris for many years, creating commercial art. These printed works featured his iconic attractive sets of women, in flowing gowns and floral backdrops.

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History of the Slav Epic

At the age of 43, Mucha returned to his homeland of Moravia. There, he devoted himself to painting a series about the history of all the Slavic people. Mucha’s inspiration for the series first started when he was researching another assignment. While studying and travelling through the Balkans, he was genuinely struck by the hardships and sufferings of the Slav people. He also noted there was no real documentation of these people’s stories in art. Mucha decided it would be his final task to bring these stories to life with paint.

Although he secured a financier for the giant undertaking, this was more of a passion project for the artist. Sitting in his studio, surrounded by this enormous canvas, Mucha painted the past into reality. The Slav Epic depicts in chronological order the mythologies and histories of the Czechs and Slavic people.

Romanticism

Many of the themes in this series fall under romanticism. Romanticism is characterized by its emphasis on emotion and individualism and the glorification of the past and nature. In these paintings, sensations are portrayed on people’s faces in a far more sophisticated way than before. Looks of horror, terror, awe and apprehension started to round out the range of human emotion in art. Previously emotion had been stunted between pure joy or sadness. Romanticism also elevated folk art, which had previously been thought of as a lesser form of art.

It took Mucha over 14 years to complete the series. In 1928, on the 10th anniversary of Czechoslovakia’s independence, Mucha presented the collection of paintings to the Czech nation. He considered it his most important piece of work he ever created. The Czech Republic cherished the gift. It was like nothing else they had ever seen before. Notably, during World War II, the Slav Epic was one of the first things hidden away before the Nazis took hold of the city and seized works of art.

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The Slavs in Their Original Homeland

The series is set chronological and starts with the painting entitled “The Slavs in their Original Homeland,” painted in 1912. In the 4th to 6th century, the Slavic people lived largely in unpopulated, rural areas, which often were considered marshes. Because there was no national army to protect these farmers, their lands were invaded time and time again.

In this painting, you can see a mother and child hiding in the bushes. Behind them, their village is being burned to the ground. The red fires glowing in the distance to the left of the frame. Their eyes are so vulnerable and seem to cry out to the viewer for help. They look right into your soul. This is a trope that Mucha uses throughout almost the entirety of the series.

In the top corner of the piece, you can see three figures floating in mid-air. The largest of the figures, a priest, holds his hands outstretched. In the same position as Jesus on the cross. The two on either side of him are a young boy and girl. The boy, dressed in blood-red robes represents war. The girl on the right, dressed in white represents peace. The two figures seem to foreshadow the future of the Slavic people. Their history is marred by many wars but also by the hope for peace.

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Colours in the Slav Epic

The colours used in this painting are significant in the series and also in comparison to Mucha’s other works. Most of Mucha’s artworks are pale and delicate. In this series, we find there is definitely a dark tone to his work. Colours here are not just used haphazardly. He uses colour to his advantage and to help tell the story using symbolism.

Many of the paintings throughout the series have two separate planes of existence set in the same scene. Often mythological beings are seen floating above the historic action below. This is Mucha’s way of combining the essential mythologies of the Slavic people to past events.

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 The Celebration of Svantovít 

Sventovit is a Slavic deity of war, fertility and abundance. Sventovit is depicted as a four-headed god with two heads looking forward and two looking back. These four directions are positioned like a compass, looking north, south, east and west. The different directions they point also symbolize the different seasons of the year. Mucha’s next piece, “The Celebration of Svantovít” features the god Sventovit is located in the upper right portion of the painting. The god’s head is just cut off on the top of the canvas. Almost as if we portals cannot look upon him. But we can see some of the branches which sprout forth from his head. He is surrounded by other celestial beings painted in an almost opalescent quality.

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Arcona

Before the 1200s, the Slavs headed westwards and built a temple to Sventovit in the city of Arcona. As Sventovit was also the god of the seasons the Slavs would have a grand celebration every year during the autumn. The festival was obviously held at this temple. Pilgrims would come from all over Europe to celebrate with them here.

In 1168 the Danes attacked the city and destroyed the temple in their conquest of the east. We can see the Danes in the upper left corner of the canvas. They are represented by the fearsome-looking warriors being lead by a pack of wolves.

Celebration

Below the celestial scene, the Slavs are preparing for their autumnal celebrations. The Slavs and pilgrims are all dressed in white, a symbol of purity. Only one character seems to be aware of the incoming attack. A mother holding her child in the center of the frame looks out at the viewer. She is almost begging the viewer to take notice. And save them from the horrors which are about to happen to the peaceful pilgrims and Slavs.

Introduction of the Slavonic Liturgy in Great Moravia

In this painting, the “Introduction of the Slavonic Liturgy in Great Moravia” we have a lot going on. So let’s study the earthly plane first. The scene takes place in Velehrad around the year 880. In the lower right corner of the painting, we see a ray of light shining down. A deacon, with his back turned to the audience, reads out an edict. Sitting on his throne awaiting the reading is Prince Svatopluk of Greater Moravia. The deacon is reading out the announcement that Pope John VIII has officially sanctioned the use of Slavic liturgy.

To the left of the deacon, almost hidden behind a small tree, stands Methodius. Two novices are seen kneeling by his side. The task of translating the Bible into the Slavic language was a job upon which Methodius staked his life. And it would make him a saint. Methodius, and his brother Cyril, both helped with this translation of the Bible. The Pope also made Methodius archbishop for his achievements. In the middle ages, having a bible in your native language was a way of ensuring its legacy.

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Slavic Language

But not everyone is happy to hear this news. The two German priests surrounding Svatopluk, whose faces are shaded and almost hidden in darkness, can barely conceal their anger. These Germans had been making their way through Moravia in the hopes of eliminating the Slavic language for good. They wanted to force the Slavs to learn the German language in order to practice Christianity.

In the very front of the foreground, once more staring out at the audience, stands a young man with his fist clenched. He raises his other hand in the air, which holds a large ring. The circle symbolizes this moment of strength in unity for the Slavic people.

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Boris of Bulgaria and Igor of Russia

Floating above this scene, we have members of the divine realm. In the upper left corner, we can see the Pope sitting on his throne. Beside him, sits the Byzantine emperor, who was the head of the Orthodox Church. Surrounding the great religious leaders Slav who suffered forced Germanification, who now cry out for comfort. In the center of the ethereal world, we see stylized images of Methodius and Cyril as Saints. To the very right, we have the portraits of Boris of Bulgaria and Igor of Russia and their wives. These rulers helped spread the Slavic Bible across the country which helped strengthen their rule and their culture.

Tsar Simeon I of Bulgaria 

Much as the Bible was important in the perpetuation of the Slavic language, art and literature were also significant in ensuring a legacy for this nation. When Methodius died, the Archbishop of Moravia, Prince Svatopluk, under the influence of his German priests, withdrew his support for the Slavic Bible. With this exodus, he also exiled all of Methodius’ followers out of Moravia. They were scholars without a place to call home. Methodius had died and his successor was not recognized by the Pope and therefore had no power. His followers felt they were the only ones left who could continue Methodius’ great work. But all was not yet lost.

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Tsar Simeon I

Luckily, Tsar Simeon I of Bulgaria, who had a great kindness in his heart for the Slavic people, gave the scholar refuge inside his court. Tsar Simeon I, was a powerful ruler. Simeon’s successful campaigns against the Byzantines, Magyars and Serbs led Bulgaria to its greatest territorial expansion ever! It was on its way to being one of the most powerful states in Eastern and Southeast Europe. But Simone was also a lover of literature and art. We can see Simeon himself highlighted here under a golden arch. He is seen dictating to his scribes from his raised dais. Other scholars are spread out all over the court. Almost hastily and messily, writing and reading under the golden light of the throne room.

The painting’s foreground is rather small. The upper portion, which takes up about half the space, focuses on the palace’s decor. The frescoes on the wall feature both Byzantine and Slavic designs. Slavic leaders are painted, and a circular motif is applied in gold to the front of the baldachin.

King Přemysl Otakar II of Bohemia

The fifth painting in the series is entitled “King Přemysl Otakar II of Bohemia.” This painting was made 12 years after the first. The piece depicts King Přemysl Otakar II, who ruled Bohemia from 1253-1278. The King is celebrating the marriage of his niece to the prince of Hungary. This marriage would forge a great alliance and strengthen the bonds of both countries. 

The wedding took place on October 5th, 1264. It was one of the greatest celebrations in Europe’s history to date. Held on the banks of the Danube, under a large canopy, fancy tents were set up along the river to accommodate all the royal guests. The event was dubbed the “Union of Slavic dynasty“. The King happily is greeting his guests inside an ornate tent covered in rich carpets and a beautiful mosaic dome. This scene is lit from above, as if from that celestial place. The light of the hope for the countries’ futures.

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The Coronation of Serbian Tsar Štěpán Dušan

The next painting in the series is the “The The Coronation of Serbian Tsar Štěpán Dušan.” Dušan fought many successful wars, growing the size of the country and enriching the livelihood of his people in the process. On Easter Sunday in 1346, he had himself crowned as the Tsar of the Serbs and Greeks. The painting takes place on the hillside, down from the Church of Saint Marko near Skopje. In this scene, we see crowds of peasants and nobles alike, in line for his coronation. Under Dušan’s rule, Serbia was the major power in the Balkans, and a multi-ethnic and multi-lingual empire. He enacted Dušan’s Code which was a compilation of several legal systems, which is considered to be one of the first acts of the constitution.

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The children will follow in their leader’s footsteps and bring freedom to the Czech people

Dušan is depicted at the centre of the frame, but not larger than any other person presented. Walking in front of him are some young Serbian girls in traditional attire. The children stand at the front of the procession, as Mucha always maintained that “the children will follow in their leader’s footsteps and bring freedom to the Czech people.” In their hands, they carry flowers and olive branches, the symbols of peace and victory. The children’s gaze focuses once more on the viewer, asking them to join in on the celebrations.

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Jan Milíč of Kroměříž

This painting, “Jan Milíč of Kroměříž,” is the first of a triptych in the Slav Epic series. These three paintings jump forward in history slightly and focus on the reformist preachers of the 14th and 15th centuries. Jan Milíč of Kroměříž was a Czech Catholic priest who found himself in opposition with the rest of his clergymen. He found the Catholics to be immoral and indulgent. Their greed was outweighing their piety. 

He redesigned from his official priestly duties and instead dedicated himself to helping the sick and poor of the city of Prague. Milíč made it his mission to persuade the prostitutes of a large house of ill repute to shed their sinful ways and repent. By the sheer eloquence of his words alone, they followed.

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Unlike the rest of the paintings in this series, this one is primarily made up of women. Even Milíč himself is very small in proportion to the rest of the scene. At this moment in time, we can see the former prostitutes shedding their brightly coloured clothes and lavish jewels in exchange for simple, white robes. A mode of dressings that represented their newfound purity.

Jerusalem

Milíč set about building a new church, which he would call his “Jerusalem“. This church would become the Týn Church which now stands in Prague’s Old Town Square. In this painting, we can see the women gathered around the spot that would become this church. The scaffolding reaching high up, making the verticality of the painting one of the most impactful things about this piece. One of the prostitutes in the foreground, dressed in red, has her mouth gagged in order to prevent her from gossiping, a mortal sin.

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Jan Hus Preaching at the Bethlehem Chapel

The second and largest painting in the triptych is “Jan Hus Preaching at the Bethlehem Chapel”. In this dimly lit scene, we see the Czech theologian and philosopher Jan Hus sitting in the center of the Bethlehem Chapel in 1412. Jan was at the height of his popularity at this time. Jan Hus preached against the Catholic Church of Bohemia, as he believed they were using the church for their own gains. And they would not let the Bohemian people have the Slavic language used in church. The scenes show Hus on the left side of the painting, preaching from his pulpit. But Hus, despite being perhaps the most famous character in the scene is not the central focus. The audience is filled with both everyday people and the highest rungs of Bohemia. All together, presented equally.

The church is also filled with famous characters who would shape the future of Bohemia. Perhaps influenced by the teachings of Hus. The future leader of the Hussite army Jan Žižka, stands under a fresco of St. George and the Dragon. In front of the pulpit is a small group of Hus’ students who are diligently taking notes. All of them sit there, transfixed by the words he speaks.

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Queen Sophia, wife of King Váklav IV

On the right side of the frame, we see the bright red canopy of Queen Sophia, wife of King Váklav IV. She sits with her assembly listening to the great lecturer. One of her ladies in waiting turns her head to the side, looking off at a shadowy figure in the corner. This figure represents one of the spying priests who would bring about the death of Jan Hus.

Mucha represents the Bethlehem Chapel as he imagined it. The real church was destroyed in 1836, long before Mucha started this painting. Mucha draws the interior in the high Gothic style as it feels so grand and perhaps reflects the magnificence of the sermons Jan Hus would have been giving. You can visit the new Bethlehem Chapel in Prague today, and while the architecture isn’t nearly as impressive now, its prominence in history is unparalleled.

The Gathering at Křížky

Jan Hus’ teachings were not taken kindly by the papacy. When Alexander V was elected as a pope, he excommunicated Hus. But this would not stop him from preaching. Angered at his insolence, the pope plotted to arrest Hus. He planned an assembly of the Council of Constance to discuss Hus’ opposition to the church. When Hus arrived to have what he thought would be a sensible debate, he was arrested. They repeatedly ask Hus to stop preaching and bend to the ways of the Catholic church but Hus just repeated, “I would not for a chapel of gold retreat from the truth!”.

Hus was burned at the stake for “heresy against the doctrines of the Catholic Church“. As he burned they say he could be heard singing Psalms, a peaceful protestor to the end. But his death would not be in vain. His followers, who called themselves the Hussites, rose up against the Catholic Church. They wanted to take up arms to defend their faith and their right to practice religion in the Slavic language. In 1418, there was a gathering of the Hussites before the great war they would embark on. It is depicted here, in the painting called, “The Gathering at Křížky.”

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Koranda

On the right side of the frame, atop a makeshift pulpit stands the preacher Koranda, one of Jan Hus’ most diligent followers. Koranda preaches to the thousands of followers who have concentrated on the hillside. In the foreground, a young man puts his hands around his mouth, in mid-scream. He is calling out for more pilgrims to come over to this spot and listen to Koranda. Koranda is famously quoted as saying, “the faithful should carry swords, not walking sticks.” It was perhaps this moment that the Hussite Wars began. While the painting’s hills and foreground are lit in a pale morning sunrise, there is a dark sky looming above them. This ominous tone is foreshadowing the devastation that will be brought by impending hostilities.

After the Battle of Grunewald

This scene is perhaps one of the most ghastly of all the paintings in the series. The painting depicts the morning “After the Battle of Grunewald“. The great Battle of Grunewald is one of the most significant medieval European victories in history. It was a show of unity for nations under the thumb of Germany. The Teutonic Knights, a German catholic order, had been ravaging the Baltic lands since the 1400s. They wanted to spread Christianity to the pagan nations as they deemed them “savages”. The Slavs, who were also at war with the German Catholics, saw an opportunity to join forces and create a united front against them. The Slavs, the Poles and the Lithuanians all signed a treaty on July 15th, 1410. This was done to help each other defend themselves against the great Teutonic Knights.

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Polish–Lithuanian Union

The battle at Grunewald in Poland was a bloody affair, but in the end, the Polish–Lithuanian union were the victors. The battle is thought to have been the marking point in history when the balance of power shifted in Central and Eastern Europe. Many historical war scenes are often depicted as gory and bloody and yet Mucha chose a different approach. Instead, the battleground is almost entirely white, like covered in freshly fallen snow. This is once more to show the purity of the fallen soldiers, who died for the good of their country.

At the top of the frame stands Polish King Władysław Jagiełło and his cousin the Lithuanian Grand Duke Vytautas. They look down at the field of dead soldiers in horror. Such a high cost for freedom which should have been granted naturally. A priest in a white hood can be seen blessing the fallen soldiers as he moves throughout the battlefield.

After the Battle of Vítkov

The 11th piece in the series is entitled “After the Battle of Vítkov.” Like the previous painting, this one also focuses on fallen soldiers. Mucha was a pacifist and hated the loss of which war incurred. The battle was between the Czech people and the then King of Hungary, Sigismund, brother of King Wenceslas. Sigismund was thought to be the one who plotted the death of the people’s prophet, Jan Hus. After Hus died, the people refused to accept Sigismund as their king and marched against the Hungarian army, which occupied Prague Castle at the time.

Zižka

The sun rising above the clouds beams down on a figure which represents Zižka, the leader of the Czech army. We have seen Zižka before, first in the church scene listening to Hus’ teachings. Here we see him still fighting for the same things Hus had preached. Zižka is painted here by Mucha almost as a saintly figure, with the light of god cast down upon him.

In the bottom left of the frame, a mother is seen with her children. But she turns away from them, towards the viewer. She looks utterly overcome with pain, exhaustion and defeat. Although her army may have won the battle, many men had to die and she is perhaps thinking about her young children, who will no doubt go to war like so many other young men. These powerful characters looking out at the audience always seem to have these discerning looks, as if they, like the viewer, know what is to come next.

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 Petr of Chelčice 

Mucha aimed with his Slav Epic series to ensure he depicted both sides of the story. And in the painting, “Petr of Chelčice ” we see this balance. While the Hussites were an oppressed people, there were also more extreme factions of Hussites who themselves terrorized many people. This extremist group was called the Taborites. In 1420 the Taborites attacked the village of Vodňany. They plundered the town and burned it to the ground. In the distance of the painting, we see a hint of this action as the black smoke fills the air and almost the entire skyline.

The remaining citizens of Vodňany came to a pond away from the city carrying their dead and wounded in the hopes they would be safe here. The dead are wrapped in white sheets and set against a white pure background. Many of Mucha’s war scenes depict not the action of the battles itself but the after-effects of these traumas on the innocent victims or those left behind. Those who needed to carry on.

Petr Chelčický

In the middle of the frame, we can see a man dressed in a long brown coat and pale blue shawl. He holds a tattered book in his hand, the Czech bible. This is Petr Chelčický. Petr is seen holding the hand of a man, who in anger wants to set off back to the village to avenger his fallen family. But Petr is attempting to calm and dissuade him from seeking revenge.

Chelčický believed and taught pacifism and hated the idea of war. Mucha himself shared in this belief and wanted to highlight the man which he himself looked up to greatly. Petr Chelčický would go on to found the Unity of the Brethren. Their motto was “In essentials, unity; in non-essentials, liberty; in all things, love.”

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The Hussite King Jiří z Podĕbrad

Despite the strength and unity of the Czech people, Rome was still in opposition to them. In 1458 Bohemia elected its first king; Jiří z Podĕbrad portrayed here in “The Hussite King Jiří z Podĕbrad“. Jiří z Podĕbrad was well-loved by his people. With many successful battles, the Hussites had demanded an acknowledgement from the Church. Jiří z Podĕbrad sent an envoy to Rome with a treaty. He asked that the Pope confirmed his election and grant Bohemia their own religious privileges. The Pope sent back to Prague his cardinal Fantinus de Valle, to the Royal Court in Prague’s Old Town.

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Mucha’s Villains

In Mucha’s series, so many of the villains are seen painted in red. And there is no purer red, than the cardinal’s robes. He is centred in the frame, surrounded by the golden light flowing in through the gothic tracery’s stained glass windows. But instead of the golden light on the sun seeming holy or uplifting, there is an ominous, almost firey tone, to the lighting. He has not brought news of peace but of more war. The profile of Fantinus has actually been modelled off Pope Pius II. Fantinus was mere a solider in the Pope’s envoy.

The scene around him is calamitous. The king is seen turning away, his chair on its side, no doubt having been kicked down in a fit of rage. The overturned chair also represents the fact that Bohemia was still not seen as an official kingdom as the Papacy would not acknowledge it. At the bottom of the scene, in the center of the frame, we see a young boy looking out at the viewer. The boy is holding a book in his hands, which has the words “Roma” written on the cover. The book is closed, depicting the fact that Rome has closed the door on the Bohemian people.

The Defence of Sziget by Nikola Zrinski

“The Defence of Sziget by Nikola Zrinski” stands out, as the red hue is so saturated in juxtaposition to the softer tones of the rest of the series. The scene is fiery, literally. It depicts the last assault of the Bohemian forces against the Turkish army. In 1566, when this painting is set, the Ottoman Empire was spreading eastwards, taking city by city by force. Their next attack was set on the city of Sziget, a town in modern-day Hungary.

Nikola Zrinski

Within the walls of the city, the last remaining Bohemians forces gather around their leader, Croatian nobleman Nikola Zrinski. With no way out, the soldiers and common folk decided that instead of surrendering, they would fight to the very end.

One of the most dramatic moments of the siege is the burning of the city. Upon seeing the Turkish forces burst through the battlements, Zrinski’s wife Eva set fire to the city. She knew while this would no doubt kill hundreds of her own soldiers, but it would also kill thousands of Turks. And perhaps stop their advance into the rest of eastern Europe. In this scene, we can see Eva, along with other fellow women, climbing the scaffolding which contained the cities gunpowder supply. They ready themselves, for the right moment, when the Turkish army is close. Then Eva will hurl down the cresset she holds, to set the entire thing ablaze. You can see Eva at the very top of the scaffolding, standing proud and regal, brave in the face of her sacrifice. It was this decision that successfully halted the Ottoman expansion towards the city of Vienna.

Dividing the canvas like a scar, is a dark plume of smoke rising from the ground. The smoke is so thick it doesn’t seem to belong in the earthy realm. Instead, perhaps it is foreshadowing the demise yet to come. This battle is often referred to as “the battle that saved the civilization.”

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The Printing of the Bible of Kralice in Ivančice

“The Printing of the Bible of Kralice in Ivančice” is of particular importance to the Mucha, as it depicts his hometown. The town of Ivančice where Mucha was born is faithfully reinterpreted for us here, on a seemingly idyllic autumnal afternoon. No doubt he would have chosen his favourite time of year to paint this scene. The painting shows members of the Brethren School, gathered in 1578 to admire their new printing press, at work producing the first Czech translation of the New Testament.

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Jan the Elder

This theme of all men being equal was something Mucha believed in and was preached by the Brethren School itself. The teacher Jan the Elder of Žerotin can be seen almost obscured under the wooden shelter on the left side of the canvas despite him being one of the founders of the school. In reality, while the Brethren School was located in Ivančice, the bible had to be printed in secret in the town of Kralice. While the action is celebratory, the act of printing the bible in another language was seen as an affront to the Catholic church.

In the foreground of the frame, we see an old man reading to a young scholar. The scholar is looking out at the audience, with a look of apprehension or perhaps impending doom in his eyes. He seems to know that this act is bound to bring persecution down on the school. But printing the bible in Czech was in itself a symbol of the power of the Czech national identity. Since the bible was one of the most-read pieces of literature, having it in your own language ensured its legacy.

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Jan Amos Komenský

As foreshadowed by the look of terror in the boy from the previous painting, the religious liberties of the Bohemian people would not last. In 1619 the Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand II became King of Bohemia. Without a true Czech King on the throne to fight for the rights of the Bohemian people, the Catholic church was reinstated in what was now a Protestant region. But not without bloodshed. In 1620, 30,000 Bohemians died trying to defend their liberty. Noblemen and academics were given the choice to convert to Catholicism or to be exiled.

Naarden

The painting of “Jan Amos Komenský” depicts the result of this exile. Komenský had been a member of the Brethern school who faced this choice. Not wanting to bend the knee to the catholic church, he left the country he loved so much, breaking his heart in the process. He spent the rest of his life in the town of Naarden, in the Netherlands. The town is located near the water, and historically it was said that Komenský would walk along the coast every day. Perhaps the calm sound of waves crashing on land allowing him to dream about the country he left behind. One day, when he felt like his life was coming to a close, he asked for a chair to be brought out to the coast. There he sat, and let death take him home once more.

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The scene is painted in a sombre, yet peaceful swath of blues and whites. The purity of the white shores upon which he walked is framed by the melancholy blue of the sky. The sombre sky reflecting the sadness which Komenský felt being compelled to leave his homeland and many of his people. A group of his followers can be seen grieving on the shore, holding each other close. A single lantern sits on the sand, glowing brightly in the darkness, perhaps a hint at the hope which still exists for the Bohemian people.

Czech Mason Temple

This is the only painting in the series which Mucha actually signed! Mucha was deeply connected to Komenský. It is well known that Mucha was a member of the Czech Mason Temple, which was founded in Prague in 1919 and named after Komenský himself. One of the symbols of the Masonic Temple is the Eye of God often seen in a triangle surrounded by rays of light. It is thought that Mucha’s inclusion of the lantern in this scene is symbolic of this same Eye of God and therefore a masonic symbol.

The Holy Mount Athos

The 17th piece in the series is called “The Holy Mount Athos.” Mucha believed that Mount Athos was a spiritual nest for the Czechs and Slav people. Mount Athos is a mountain in northeastern Greece and an important centre of Eastern Orthodox monasticism. Mount Athos is home to 20 monasteries under the direct jurisdiction of the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople. Mucha visited the mountain himself in 1924. The spiritual haven made a huge impression on the painter.

The painting depicts the Russian pilgrimage to this holy site. Once more, we are privy to Mucha’s depiction of the heavenly and the earthly places above and below the canvas. In the upper portion of the painting, we can see the celestial realm. An ethereal glow falls in through the windows, showering the angels in heavenly light. Each of the angles holds in their hand a small model of a Slavic monastery that was built around Mount Athos. Each one of the angels seems to shelter and protect these little treasures. In the center of the frame are two female angels, identifiable by the fact they are not barechested and instead draped with immaculate white fabric. They hold an insignia in their hands which indicates they represent “faith” and “purity”.

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High Priests

In the earthly plane, we can see the Russian pilgrims entering the sanctuary in a semi-circle, bowing and praying. Four high priests stand at the back of the scene, just under the Slavic icons. Each one of them holds a relic in their hand which the pilgrims kiss upon greeting. In the foreground of the canvas, we see once more a young man, holding up an older blind man in his arms. One can imagine them to be the same two figures from the school of the Brethren a few paintings ago. The young man, being so inspired by the teaching of the older one, has helped bring him to this holy place where he can finally be at peace.

The Oath of Omladina under the Slavic Linden Tree

There are two important things to understand when reading the painting “The Oath of Omladina under the Slavic Linden Tree”. One is mythological and the other historical. The historical piece of the story is imprinted in the title with the mention of the Omladina. The Omladina were a group of Czech Nationalists made up mainly of youths created in the 1890s. 68 members of the group were furthermore put on trial for their beliefs and sent to prison for their “radical” ideas. These ideas revolved around the creation of a Czech nationalistic revival, despite the fact that Bohemia was currently occupied by the Austria-Hungary empire.

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The Daughter of Sláva

The scene which takes place here combines the Omladina with an allegorical scene of the Daughter of Sláva. Mucha was inspired by the poems of Ján Kollár whose oeuvre focused on stories of the gods and goddesses from Slavis history. The Daughter of Sláva stands in the center of the frame, beneath a Linden tree. The Linden tree is also a symbol of the Slavs. Surrounding the tree, in a circle of unity, are imagined members of the Omladina. The Omladina are in the process of taking an oath and pledging their allegiance to the goddess Slavia, and to the Czech people. While the men in the frame are portrayed in their formal, modern-day fashions, there are groups of figures surrounding them dressed in folk costumes. These are traditional representations of the first Czech people.

Jaroslava and Jiří

Sitting on what almost looks like the edge of a stage are two figures, a male and female. These characters were actually modelled off Mucha’s own children; Jaroslava and Jiří. The composition of girl on the right strumming the lyre was actually used in the posters that Mucha created to promote the exhibition of the Slav Epic in Prague in 1928. Mucha would never finish this painting, and the composition remains bare on the canvas, unvarnished. The faces are also unfinished, but in a sense that almost makes the painting more interesting as future Czech revolutionaries can imagine their own faces in the image. Inspiring them to never lose their Czech identity and the histories that come along with it.

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The Abolition of Serfdom in Russia

Mucha’s painting of the “Abolition of Serfdom in Russia” is a real reflection of the artist’s disheartening experience of visiting Russia for the first time. Mucha had always looked up to the Russians and was excited to finally visit the city. But when he got there in 1913 he was so disappointed to find the city was overrun with poverty and suffering. It was not the progressive place he thought it would be, instead, he found so many cultural practices to be years behind the rest of Europe. Especially in terms of equality, something he valued over everything else.

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Tsar Alexander II

Tsar Alexander II had given Russian serfs personal freedom in 1861. Which Mucha felt was long overdue. The term “serf”, referred to an unfree peasant of the Russian Empire. They differed from slaves only in the sense that they could not be bought and sold independently from their land. Instead were “attached” to the land they lived on. So if you bought a piece of land, the serfs came with it, but could never be moved from that spot. The emancipation movement of 1861 meant that 23 million people received their liberty. They now could marry without having to gain consent, could own property and even start a business.

When the edict was read out, as portrayed here, the serfs and nobles alike had much uncertainty about what this freedom would look like. For the peasants, having never known this kind of life before, some of them were overwhelmed and confused. Mucha’s crowd is subdued rather than excited. They sit for a moment, apprehensive that the emancipation order could be being revoked. And this liberty taken away as fast as it was given.

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St Basil’s Cathedral and the Kremlin

St Basil’s Cathedral and the Kremlin are almost completely obscured in the background of the scene by the thick fog. Making the picture more about the people than the country which looms over them. The sun is only starting to peek out of the clouds, offering a faint glimmer of hope. In the foreground of the picture, once more we see a mother and child looking out at the viewer. Their faces are a complex mixture of trepidation, anxiety and optimism.

The Apotheosis of the Slavs, Slavs for Humanity

The final painting in the series is perhaps the most impressive, the colours within its frame is almost otherworldly. It’s entitled “The Apotheosis of the Slavs, Slavs for Humanity.” In this scene, Mucha sums ups all the themes that were explored throughout the preceding paintings.

It celebrates the independence of the Slav nation in the 20th century.
The painting is divided into four sections, each separated by colour. The blue portion in the bottom right represents the mythology of the Slavic people. Those stories are the bedrock upon which their culture was built.

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The red in the top-right reflects the brutal Hussites wars fought in the middle ages. The dark shadowy figures on either side of the painting represent the enemies of the Slavic people and the oppression they surrounded the Slavs with throughout their lifetime.

Independent Czech Republic

The last group is the one marked with a bright yellow glowing light. In the centre, a man stands with his arms outstretched. So vast, they almost touch the edges of the canvas. He represents the new, independent Czech Republic. But he doesn’t stand alone. Behind him is the figure of Jesus Christ, supporting him on the journey to come. The man greets a group of soldiers, seen in their uniforms, returning from the First World War. The Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed after WWI, and the Slavic people were free of their reign in 1918. Just below the waist of the towering figure is a man crouched over, holding his heart. From his clenched hands, a beam of light is radiating. The light represents the Czech people’s love for their nation. And it is this love that will illuminate the future pathway for the Slavic people.

Young boys and girls wave branches with bright green leaves, saluting the men returning home from battle. They are seen wearing traditional folk costumes. Symbolic of the fact that their traditions will never die and will continue in the hearts of future generations.

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Souls of the Slav People

Mucha hoped that those who viewed these paintings would be able to see into the souls of the Slav people. He wanted all Slavs and Czechs, now more than ever, to come together through their shared history. He hoped that by documenting these stories, perhaps unknown by many, they would find peace and hope. I had never known anything about the Slavic people until I visited Prague. After experiencing this series I was so inspired to do more reading about the stories portrayed here in the Slav Epic. By understanding the past these people suffered and survived through you have so much more appreciation for the culture they had to fight to preserve.

Fully taking in the Slav Epic can take some time, but the experience is absolutely worth it. I hope that when it finally reopens in its new home in Moravský Krumlov people flock to see it. This is a collection of works of art that NEEDS to be seen in person to be fully appreciated. While learning about it online is great, seeing these gigantic paintings, overtake your field of vision is such an awe-inspiring experience and I truly hope you all manage to see it for yourself!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Exploring the Beauty and Meaning of Alphonse Mucha’s Masterpiece, the Slav Epic [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

In 1784, four independent boroughs in Bohemia came together to form the city of Prague. Today, each of these districts feels like their own unique area of the town, whose architecture, atmosphere and layout change as you move throughout them. The four neighbourhoods are Hradčany (the Castle District), Malá Strana (the Lesser Quarter below Prague Castle), Staré Město (Old Town) and Nové Město (New Town). 

Hradčany is such a beautiful part of town. It’s fantastically easy to wander around. If you’re not in a rush to get back to the old city after exploring Prague Castle, I highly recommend taking a walk through this part of town. Although there is a myriad of impressive buildings to venture inside (should time allow) my favourite thing to do in this area is simply to walk around aimlessly and admire all the romantic-looking houses which dot the streets.

Table Of Contents

1. Location
2. History
3. Access
4. Zámecké schody
5. Paradise Garden
6. Hradčany Square 
7. Schwarzenberg Palace
8. Salm Palace
9. Statue of Tomas Garrigue Masaryk
10. The New Royal Palace
11. Archbishop Palace
12. Šternberský Palace
13. Martinic Palace
14. Tuscany Palace
15. Loretánská street 
16. Hradčany Town Hall
17. U Černého vola
18. Strahov Monastery
19. Basilica of the Assumption
20. Strahov Library
21. Černín Palace
22. Loreto Sanctuary
23. Novy Svet
24. Church of St. John of Nepomuk
25. Vstup Jelení Příkop or Deer Moat
26. Powder Bridge
27. Prague Riding School
28. The Royal Garden
29. Royal Ball Game Hall
30. Singing Fountain
31. Queen Anne's Summer Palace

Location

Hradčany or the Castle District is located on the Vltava river’s west bank, above the Mala Strana/Lesser Quarter. This area is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Prague and wandering around its noble historical palaces, romantic nooks, peaceful squares and beautiful lookouts feel like stepping back in time.

History

The settlement of Hradčany was established in the 13th century. Unlike the Old Town and Lesser Quarter, which were official cities, Hradčany wasn’t an official town and developed in a much more haphazard manner. In 1598 Emperor Rudolf II finally promoted it to the status of a city, and the district’s situation began to change. More and more wealthy people began to move in. Either to be closer to the palace as a sign of their devotion to the crown or perhaps they were a royal worker who moved in to be closer to work. 

Because the area of Hradčany was located near Prague Castle, it gained the title of being a “Royal Town” in the 14th century shortly before New Town was founded by Charles IV. Because of this status, residents living here were all relatively wealthy. The owners could afford to hire the best artisans to create some of Prague’s most stunning structures. Hradčany was an independent city until 1784, when it became part of Prague’s unified royal capital.

Access

We’re going to start the tour just outside Prague Castle, assuming you’ll be taking this tour after exploring that part of town. If you’re making a separate trip to Hradčany, you can follow the same path. The best way to access the start of the walking tour directly is by taking the tram to Malostranské náměstí station. The first stop on the guided tour is only a few minutes from the tram stop.

Zámecké schody

We start our tour along with the steps of Zámecké schody, or the Castle Stairs. This pedestrian-only street was built in 1278. The name translates into “the steep road” in Czech as the original stairs that used to be here until the 1870s were perilously steep. Today the patterned stone steps are flanked on either side by beautiful old stone walls and a gorgeous view across the city of Prague.

Paradise Garden

When you reach the top of the stairs, head over the right to a small green area called the “Paradise Garden.” Up here you’ll find a series of benches along the grass where you can sit and look out over the city. It’s a spectacular viewpoint and one not to be missed!

Hradčany Square 

Head back out to Hradčanské street, where you’ll find the statue of St. Filip Neri at the intersection of the stairs and the road. From here, head towards the grand Hradčany Square. Hradčany Square is one of the most scenic areas of the neighbourhood, full of charming pastel palaces and houses everywhere you look. The square faces onto Prague castle, and from here you can see the towers of St. Vitus Cathedral looming overhead.

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The middle of the square is dominated by a great plague column. Plague columns were a popular decorative addition to squares in the 15th century. They were designed to praise the Virgin Mary for saving the people of Prague from the great plague. Plague columns represented the end of the epidemic and were thought to prove the resolve of the population of Prague. This statue was designed by Maxmilián Brokof, one of the most famed sculptors of the Baroque era. Even the plague columns of this district were made by the most illustrious artists.

Schwarzenberg Palace

On the south side of the square is Schwarzenberg Palace. This elegant Renaissance palace from the 16th century is covered in the most intricate geometric design. The pattern is made to look like a pyramidal relief, but if you go up to it and touch it, you’ll see that this is just a trick of the eye. This effect is called sgraffito and is a painting technique used to create an optical illusion of a three-dimensional texture on a flat surface. The effect is mesmerizing. And unless you touch the walls you’d think the entire facade was meticulously carved.

The palace was built for Count Jan Jr. from Lobkovice in 1545. Schwarzenberg Palace is now home to the National Gallery of Prague. If you choose to venture inside, you’ll be able to see some of the original painted ceiling frescoes. One of the most famous treasures of the building is the restored frescoes of The Judgment of Paris and the Conquest of Troy.

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The art housed inside the palace contains paintings from the Renaissance done by Bohemian artists as well as Old Masters. Artists such as; Hans von Aachen, Lucas Cranach, Adriaen de Vries, Albrecht Dürer, El Greco, Francisco José Goya, Hans Holbein, Peter Paul Rubens, and others are featured in here.

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Salm Palace

Adjacent to the Schwarzenberg Palace is the Salm Palace or Salmovský Palace. The Salm palace is easily identifiable by the large “S” monogram on the gate. This building, built in the classical style, was initially made for the Archbishop Vilém Florentin, or Prince of Salm-Salm, in 1800.

The older palace, which once stood here, was renovated in the 19th century, as was the fashion during that period. It was used throughout the later part of the 19th century as the communist party’s headquarters. Today, it is used as a part of the National Gallery. This part of the gallery is where you can find paintings from the 19th century and onward. This part of the gallery is known for their abstract art installations and modern art collection.

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Statue of Tomas Garrigue Masaryk

Just outside the Salm Palace stands the great bronze statue of Monument to Tomas Garrigue Masaryk. He stands atop a tall plinth, looking out at the New Royal Palace with the view of Prague’s city spread out behind him. Tomas Garrigue Masaryk was a Czechoslovak statesman, philosopher, sociologist and pedagogue. But most importantly, he was the first president of the Czechoslovak Republic and was seen as the founding father of Czechoslovakia.

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The New Royal Palace

The New Royal Palace is a formation of cream coloured buildings set against the eastern part of Hradčany Square. The royal family moved into these apartments during the Renaissance when their old Royal Palace, dating back tot he 12th century, was no longer serviceable. The multitude of structures was renovated to have one unified facade under the rule of Empress Maria Theresa. She felt they looked much too much like a hodgepodge of architectural styles. 

The enormous gates that guard the entrance feature a series of wrestlers called the “Gate of the Titans.” This gate leads you into the Court of Honour, although today, the Titans’ Gate is only used as an exit, so you cannot enter via this gate. The wrestling statues were carved by Ignác Fr. Platzer in 1762. On either side of the gladiators are statues of a lion and an eagle atop a great column.

Inside the Court of Honour, we find the central Matthias Gate. The Matthias Gate was once the ceremonial gate used as an entrance to Prague Castle in the early part of the 17th century. Atop the gate is a Latin inscription in gold that gives the date of its construction, 1614. At one point, this gate would have been freestanding as the wings on either side hadn’t been built yet. When they were added, the entrance was redesigned to be incorporated into the buildings.

Archbishop Palace

On the north side of the square, you’ll find the Archbishop Palace, named as such because it was built for the Archbishops of Prague. The previous Archbishop house was located further south in the Lesser Quarter. People would rave about the manor’s opulence, and even King Wenceslas himself apparently envied the splendour. Unfortunately, the palace burned down in the 15th century. 

In 1561, Emperor Ferdinand I donated a house around Prague castle, which the archbishops could use as their new residence. The building went through round after round of redesigns and renovations. Each subsequent archbishop wanted to add their own personal flourish. Their palace’s current incarnation is from the Rococo era, seen clearly by the scrolling curves, white and cream pastel colours, sculpted moulding and dramatic figures. In the center of the facade is a coat of arms inserted under the cornice. On either side are two allegorical figures of Force and Faith by sculptor Tomas Seidan.

Archbishop’s Chapel

Although the palace’s interior is not accessible to visitors, inside the holy chapel is a stirring painting of the Crucifixion. It is said the artist who painted the picture hired a young beggar to pose as Jesus. The artist became frustrated and felt like the beggar didn’t look like he was suffering enough to be painted appropriately as Jesus on the cross. So, the artist stabbed the beggar through the heart to paint his agony-filled face. After the painting was finished, the artists committed suicide, unable to live with what he had done. But the picture still hangs in the chapel to this day, and the anguish upon the man’s face in the portrait is utterly haunting.

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Šternberský Palace

Walking under the archway to the left of the Archbishop’s Palace, you find yourself wandering down a narrow alleyway towards the Šternberský Palace. The palace was initially built for the Count Václav Vojtěch of Šternberk in 1698. The main facade of the palace looks out onto Hradčanské Square but to get to the inner courtyard one must follow the hidden passage we find ourselves in. The building was bought by the Society of Patriotic Friends of the Arts, where they display European Art from the Classical Era to the end of the Baroque Era, with emphasis on the 14th-18th centuries.

Martinic Palace

Walk back to the square, and continue westward along Hradčanské street. When we reach the square’s edge, we will find ourselves face to face with Martinic Palace on the northwest corner. The exterior of this building is truly something to see. The palace is one of the best remaining Renaissance buildings in Prague. The first building on this site was made in 1541 but burned down shortly after. In 1589 Ondřej Teyfl from Kinsdorf bought the property and transformed it into this renaissance jewel of Bohemia. What makes this building really special is the richly detailed sgraffito painted onto the facade. The sgraffito designs depict scenes from the lives of Joseph, King David and Hercules. 

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The name of the palace came from the 18th century when the great Martinic family owned the palace. After the death of the last surviving family member, the palace was sold off. Eventually, the building was turned into an apartment complex. These 70 apartments were lived in until 1967! Can you imagine living in such a place! 

Seeing the property’s historical architectural value, the building was purchased by the city and reconstructed back to its former glory. The 500-year-old interiors have been lovingly restored based on drawing the architects found of the original structure. The lavishly decorated interiors are still used for large events and even employed as the historical sets for TV shows such as ‘The Borgias.’ But day-to-day, the palace serves as the office for Prague’s chief architect, which feels very appropriate indeed!

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Tuscany Palace

Heading back south on the western side of Hradčany street, we pass by the final palace built in this majestic square, the Tuscany Palace. This baroque palace was built in the 17th century as the private residence of the Dukes of Tuscany. Walking up to it, you almost know it’s the Tuscan palace, from the facade’s warm terracotta tones alone. Today it serves as the office for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. 

Above the entrance, you’ll see the magnificent Tuscan coat of arms. On either side of the crest are two large cornucopias pouring forth with the bounty of Tuscany’s countryside. Two imperial eagles sit perched on either side, and four chubby cherubs fly above and below the crest.

This palace was designed by the same man who built the Archbishop’s Palace, and the two buildings seem to be almost brothers, looking at one and other from across the square. Along the top of the palace are a series of allegorical statues representing the Seven Liberal Arts; Grammar, Rhetoric, Logic, Arithmetic, Geometry, Music and Astronomy. 

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Loretánská street 

Pass the Tuscan Palace and continue along Loretánská street. Although this street can get busy in the summer during high tourist season, this is mainly due to the spectacular view of Prague castle framed along the road. The best place to get this shot is further up the hill at #13/179 Loretánská street.

In the 14th century, this part of town was actually located outside the city walls. It wasn’t until 1598 that it became a part of Prague’s city. Some of the houses here are very well preserved as they were spared from the great fire in 1742 set by the invading French army. 

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Hradčany Town Hall

Located on Loretánská Street is the former seat of the Hradčany Town Hall. Despite the council being disbanded with their integration into Prague, their beautiful Renaissance building still stands. Although the house was sold as a residential property, the new owners managed to preserve the Renaissance sgraffito exterior made when the town hall was built in 1598. On the front of the facade, you can still make out the emblem of the town of Hradčany. The symbol features the imperial coat-of-arms and a picture of Justice.

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U Černého vola

If you’re looking to stop somewhere for a drink or a bite to eat, pop into U Černého vola. U Černého vola, in Czech, means the Black Ox. This is one of Prague’s original beerhalls. The building dates back to 1574, but it wasn’t until 1726 that the building was used as a pub.

The interior makes one feel like they are going back in time. The vaulted ceilings, old coat of arms and long communal tables make you feel like you are entering a brew hall from the 18th century. Back then, it was commonplace to eat together, even with strangers. This is an excellent way to meeting people even today! The centrepiece of the interior is clearly the communist era bar. Here you can sample one of Prague’s finest brews; Kzoel beer, straight from the tap.

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Strahov Monastery

Continue along the streets, walking westward, until you reach the Strahov Monastery. The monastery, with its austere white baroque mouldings, hides a stunning and bejewelled interior. The monastery was founded in 1143 by Prince Vladislav II. Despite the baroque exterior, the interior contains one of the best-preserved Romanesque structures in Europe.

Basilica of the Assumption

Walking up to the monastery, the first part of the building to enter is the Basilica of the Assumption. The original church, which was first constructed here, was built in the 12th century. It was one of the four main temples of the Czech kingdom, along with the Cathedral of St. Vitus, the Church of St. Peter and Paul and the Břevnov monastery. In the middle of the 13th century, the Strahov monastery suffered a destructive fire. It was rebuilt in a gothic design while maintaining its romanesque floorplan.

But in 1747, after the bombings from the French army, the facade of the church was severely damaged once more. When they began restoring the church’s frontispiece, the project architect Jan Antonin Kvittainer was employed to freshen it up for the modern era using the then trendy baroque style.

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The church’s interior also features robust baroque designs, with a series of lavish frescoes covering the entire ceiling. There are 46 paintings in total representing scenes from the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary, the Life of St. Norbet, and the Marian cycle. Each one of these was painted by J. V. J. Neunherz in 1743. Each one is surrounded by these lush gilded stucco carvings highlighting the artwork within. Almost like a gallery wall mounted on the ceiling.

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Walking down the aisle, take in the beauty of the series of cartouches located beside the rows of pews. Each one is dedicated to a different saint created by painter Leopold Willmann. At the end of the aisle, you find the great altar. Atop it is the magnificent carving of the Virgin Mary’s Assumption for whom the church is named after.

Chapel of St. Norbert

Walking back down the aisle, continue to the right side of the church, where you’ll find a tiny chapel that juts out from the northern edge of the basilica. This is the Chapel of St. Norbert. The original chapel, which was located here, was built in 1258 and dedicated to St. Ursula. The newer baroque version was converted in 1745 after the church acquired the holy relics from St. Nobert himself.

Above the chapel is a small dome featuring a fresco of the Martyrdom of St. Ursula, a remnant of the previous chapel’s designs. The frescoes were painted by Siard Neosecky. In this painting, we can see St. Ursula being made a martyr along with her handmaids. The legend goes that Ursula went on her pilgrimage to Rome to dedicate herself to god. But before they would reach their destination, Ursula and her handmaids were attacked by Huns and murdered. The fresco is a powerful image full of fire and violence. It seems to grow wilder and wilder as the painting inches towards the dome’s centre, where it also appears to be set alight. Inside the small chapel, you can also find the reliquaries containing St. Ursula’s remains. Nearby is the the rococo sarcophagus containing St. Nobert’s remains, made in 1755.

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Strahov Library

Also attached to the same building is the Strahov Library. The library was one of the first parts of the monastery which was built when the entire complex was constructed. Throughout the years, it was destroyed and rebuilt, time after time, war after war. Many of their precious books were stolen. Despite this, every time they rebuilt it, they sought to make their library even grander. Today, the library stands as a jewel of the Baroque era. 

To enter the library required admission. Adults are 150 CZK ($6.50 USD) and students or children are 80 CZK ($3.40 USD). The library has three parts that visitors can explore: the Grand Philosophical Hall, The Baroque Theological Hall and the Cabinets of Curiosities. Looking from floor to ceiling at this ornately designed library will literally take your breath away. It contains over 42,000 ancient philosophical texts, sprawling along the walls like a wave of knowledge. I would highly recommend giving it a visit! More information on the library can be found here.

Černín Palace

Head back the way you came in until you reach the grand Černín Palace. Černín Palace, now home to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, was built in the 1660s by diplomat Humprecht Jan Černín z Chudenic, the Habsburg imperial ambassador to Venice and Rome. Chudenic was incredibly vain and saw himself as more important than even the emperor. He built his palace in a location that was just higher up than Prague Castle, making his palace appear more prominent.

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Loreto Sanctuary

Behind the Černín Palace, you’ll find the buttercream frosted Church of Loreto. The name “Loreto” references the little cottage in which the Virgin Mary lived in Nazareth before becoming the mother of god. There are several “Loreto” churches all over the world. While visiting the one in Italy, Countess Kateřina Benigna of Lobkowicz fell so deeply in love with it that she entrusted a fair share of her wealth to Prague’s construction of their own Loreto. The church was built in 1626 by an Italian architect to ensure this church was a faithful reproduction of the same Italian version which the countess first fell in love with.

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I love the statues which decorate the facade church and are dotted along with the exterior balustrade. The perky faces of these chubby cherubs seem to welcome you in. On the frontispiece of the church are statues of various Czech saints such as St. Felix, František, Antonín and John of Nepomuk. In the central archway leading into the church is a beautifully carved emblem which represents the alliance between the families who donated money to create the church, Filip Lobkowicz and his wife, Eleonora Karolína.

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Standing outside the church, take a moment to look up at the imposing bell tower above. Inside the bell tower is a carillon of 27 bells which ring every hour from 9 am to 6 pm. The bell’s musical sound was designed by famed watchmaker Peter Neumann. The bells are immovable and are rung solely by a clock mechanism. Considering this carillon was built in 1695 the technology to create such a wide range of music seems rather ahead of its time. Every hour you can hear the song, “Marian song Thousands of greetings to you” play throughout the square. On the top of the tower, see if you can spot the crowning dove which is set against a golden aureole, the symbol of the holy spirit.

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Loreto Treasury

Walking into the church the first room you’ll enter is the Loreto Treasury. This area houses a collection of rare liturgical objects. Some of these historical pieces of ecclesiastical design are some of the most precious treasures in the nation. The most impressive one has to be the Diamond Monstrance, otherwise called the “Prague Sun.” A monstrance is an object designed to hold the consecrated communion wafers. The piece simply radiates with light as there are 6,222 diamonds set within it. This is what gave it the nickname of the “Prague Sun” as it seems to shine brighter than the even the sun in the sky.

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Santa Casa

Head into the cloisters where you’ll find my favourite part of the church, the Santa Casa. Crammed in the center of the small grassy courtyard is the intricately carved “Santa Casa” or “Holy Hut”. The entirety building is covered in magnificent stucco reliefs which depict scenes of the life of the Virgin Mary. Set amongst the little vignettes are statues of the prophets who predicted the birth of the Virgin Mary. The structure’s shape and design is a replica of the house where the Virgin Mary lived during her life in Nazareth. You could definitely spend a good amount of time encircling the building studying all the different carvings so it’s best to find one which you are really drawn to and focus on that particular one.

On either side of the Santa Casa are two wonderfully charming fountains with huge sculptures set inside the water feature. The one of the left depicts the “Resurrection of Christ,” and the one on the right depicts the “Assumptions of the Virgin Mary.” Both of these were made by artists J. M. Bruderle and R. J. Prachner in 1738.

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The cloisters surrounding the Holy Hut were built in the 18th century and contain a series of chapels dedicated to saints who protect people against disease and suffering. The most popular of these chapels is the Chapel of the Ecstasy of St. Francis. Within the chapel, you’ll find a stunning painting of the Stigmatisation of St. Francis, with the saint flying on a great chariot, painted by P. Brandl.

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Church of the Nativity

Continuing onwards, we enter the main nave of the Church of the Nativity. While the church feels small, it does not feel insignificant. The interior swells with richly carved marble columns and ostentatious decorations everywhere you look. Along the perimeter of the church are several marble altars and fantastical oratories that contain precious relics. The main altar is carved from a great piece of red and white marble and features a painting of the Nativity of Christ by J. J. Heinsch set within it.

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On the ceiling are a series of incredible frescoes. The scene portrays the newborn baby Jesus being worshipped by the Magi. The ceiling is painted to looks like there is an illusory gallery with a large balustrade lining the perimeter. Behind the balustrade are characters from the nativity, including the magi themselves. Above them, we can see the celestial images of God surrounded by a choir of angels who look down lovingly at the scene below.

In addition to the people, there is also a collection of exotic animals that surround the mother and newborn baby. The other vaults in the church depict moments from the childhood of Jesus in chronological order from the entrance towards the presbytery.

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The Spanish saints Felicissimus and Marcis stand as wax models inside the church. Each of them dressed up in period-appropriate Spanish attire. These wax models are a form of reliquary, a container for the physical remains of the saints. Each one was modelled after the true form of the saint. They are each covered in rare fabrics, rich embroideries and precious jewels to distinguish them as holy objects. Pilgrims come from all over the world to worship in front of their models as if they were really there themselves.

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The oldest artwork inside the church is the Gothic Pieta, dating back to the 15th century. She can be found in the Chapel of the Virgin Mary of Sorrows. Despite the relatively simple carving methods used here, such emotion is still found on the mother’s faces as she clutches her dead son’s body.

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Novy Svet

Walking north up Kapucínská street, we come up with the steeply set Novy Svet. Novy Svet, or “New World,” is a street in Prague that seems free of the tourist hoards seen elsewhere in the city. The area dates back to the 14th century when a large ravine, previously located here, was filled in to create more housing for the workers required to support the construction of Prague Castle. On one side of the road is a thick old wall, which looks like it is barely hanging onto the hillside. Some of the stones on this wall are remnants of the old city walls, which once divided the city of Hradčany from the rest of Prague. On the opposite side of the wall are a series of beautiful houses, some dating back to the 17th century.

Church of St. John of Nepomuk

Before heading to our next stop, take a short detour, towards the Church of St. John of Nepomuk. St. John of Nepomuk is one of the most important saints in the Czech Republic. This church, therefore, holds great importance to Prague’s history. The original church built on this site was made for the Order of Voršilek. One of the nuns of the order made it her life goal to see that John of Nepomuk was made a saint.

The nun had had a lame hand for years, infected with scabies, and doctors said it could not be fixed. As the infection worsened, she was at risk of losing her hand entirely. She came to Prague, where she knew St. John was preaching and asked him to bless her. She claimed that when St. John of Nepomuk blessed her hand she was cured of the infection none of the doctors had been able to heal. This was seen as the fourth miracle performed by St. John of Nepomuk, ensuring his sainthood.

After St. John of Nepomuk was proclaimed a saint, this church was rebuilt as a cathedral in his name. In 1720 the first stone was laid. It was built in the high baroque style of the times. In a niche atop of the clock tower stands a sculptor of St. John of Nepomuk himself surrounded by angels.

But soon after its consecration in 1728, the monastery fell into great financial trouble and closed its door. The building was left abandoned and eventually used by the city as a salt warehouse until 1861. It was reconsecrated in 1902 when it returned to the ownership of the Catholic church. However, the interiors had since been ransacked and their precious treasures sold off to pay debts.

Vstup Jelení Příkop or Deer Moat

We are now headed towards the Royal Summer Palace. But instead of taking the roadway back over the eastern side of Hradcany, we will take the small, pedestrian-only pathway called Vstup Jelení Příkop or the Deer Moat. This large expanse of forest was initially a hunting ground for the royals in the early part of the 17th century where the court would hunt deer, hence the name. During this time the grounds were also used to house a variety of animal enclosures for the King’s menagerie.

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Powder Bridge

Walking towards U Prašného mostu, turn to the right and stand atop the Powder Bridge. This bridge overlooks the Deer Moat and leads right into Prague Castle’s second courtyard. The first bridge installed here was built in 1535 to connect Prague Castle to the newly created Royal Gardens in the summer palace. The name of the bridge comes from the fact that during the early days of Prague Castle, the Mihulce tower, located behind the bridge, was used to store gunpowder. At the time, insulation and air-tight construction weren’t highly developed. Therefore gunpowder would often blow out the windows of the tower and land on the nearby bridge. This gave it the nickname, ‘Powder Bridge’ as more often then not dustings of gunpowder would cover the entire pathway.

The original bridge burned down in 1541. Various reconstructions were made over and over throughout the years as the bridge seemed plagued with misfortune. It was even victim to a bombing during the Prussian wars of 1757. The current stone version was made in the 18th century and still stands today.

Prague Riding School

Continue up the street until you reach the Prague Castle Riding School. This cream coloured building was built in the 17th century to teach the nobility of Prague the skills required to become adept horsemen. The baroque facade is relatively simple, with just a few stucco ornaments above the window and along the facade’s roofline. The stucco designs at the top of the building, above the doors, are carved into the shape of two jumping horses. On either side of the horses are the busts of a Turc and a blackmoor surrounded by various weapons. The original riding school was used by the nobility for horse games and tournaments. Today it is used primarily as an exhibition center.

The Royal Garden

Just up past the Riding school, you’ll find the Royal Garden entrance on your right-hand side. The Royal gardens are open to the public, so anyone can come inside and enjoy the splendours of this 16th-century lush enclosure. The gardens were designed in 1540 for Emperor Ferdinand I of Habsburg to surround his new Summer Palace. At the time of its construction, the park was one of the best examples of renaissance gardens in the Czech Republic.

When it was first built, the gardens were for the royal family’s personal use only. Here they could come to relax and play games, away from the eyes of the court and the public. Later in the 18th century, the garden was renovated to suit the new baroque style of the time. Today, the garden resembles more of a 19th-century English park where the plentiful fruit trees have been replaced with more sustainable decorative shrubs.

Royal Ball Game Hall

To the south, just after you enter the park, you’ll see a large stone building absolutely adorned in some of the most intricate sgraffito carvings. This is the old Royal Ball Game Hall. These carvings depict allegories of the four earthly elements along with images of art and science. All of these images are intertwined within floral designs making the entire piece so visually rich and eye-catching.

The Royal Ball Game Hall was built in 1597 and used as a place for nobles to gather to watch and participate in sporting activities, away from the public’s eye. During WWII, the building was burned down by the Nazis as they retreated from the allies. Thankfully it was able to be restored in 1950. If you look closely, you can see the symbols of the hammer and sickle, which were added in the 50’s when the communist party was responsible for the restorations.

Singing Fountain

In front of the Summer Palace, at the edge of the park, is a large fountain. Surrounding it are geometrically shaped garden beds, whose flowers bloom in all the colours of the rainbow in the spring and summer. The fountain is called the “Singing Fountain” as people say that the water spilling from the top of the fountain into the basin plays a little song. Listening closely to see if you can hear it. Holding up the upper basin of the fountain is a series of bronze sculptures depicting mythological gods tightly knit together.

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Queen Anne’s Summer Palace

The Royal Summer Palace is also referred to as Queen Anna’s Summerhouse. The palace is named after Ferdinand I’s wife, Anna Jagiellon. The building’s facade is a fine example of Italian Renaissance architecture made by Italian architect Paolo Della Stella. The palace’s roof is especially attractive, as its curved shape was meant to resemble the bottom of a ship’s hull. The exterior of the building features 36 columns creating a beautiful arcade around the palace. In between each of the columns, are arches covered in reliefs of royal hunts, historical battles and characters from greek and roman mythology.

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Sitting in the peace and quiet of the Royal Summer gardens is a perfect place to end our tour as we reach the outskirts of Hradčany. I hope you enjoyed this walk across this part of Prague.

Let me in the comments if you’ve visited Hradčany before or what part of the Prague you are most looking forward to exploring.

Happy Travels Adventurers.

The post Free Self-Guided Walking Tour of Hradčany, Prague’s Castle District first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

I say luckily since I ended up having one of my worst days of vertigo while in Prague and being able to rest and recuperate in such a beautiful environment definitely helped. What otherwise is a pretty miserable experience was made all the more bearable by staying in such a special place. Usually, you aren’t in your hotel room all day when travelling, so my almost full day in the hotel really gave me the chance to appreciate all the little details and comforts this place provides its guests.

Location

One of the most important aspects of a hotel after comfort, is always location. Being able to pop out of your place in the morning and get the right to exploring the city is super convenient. It’s only a 10-minute walk to the Old Town square and 12-minutes to the Charles Bridge. But the hotel is located just enough outside the busy tourist centre that it feels more like living in an authentic Czech neighbourhood. And you don’t have the loud voices of crowds of travellers waking you up at all hours.

History

Hotel Elite Prague, located along a peaceful cobblestone street, is set inside a 14th-century old monastery. So much of the old building has been preserved, so you feel like you are staying in a piece of Prague’s history. In 1723 the building was used as a guesthouse during the coronation of King Charles VI. Everywhere you look it feels like there is a story to be told and history is simply steeped inside the walls of this hotel.

Rooms

There is something about staying inside a piece of history that adds a spectacularly unique touch to your experience. The dimly lit hallways feel romantic, like you staying inside an ancient manor house. 

The renovations made to bring the 14th-century building up to modern standards are pretty seamless. Each room provides all the mod-cons you’d expect from a hotel. The bathrooms are clean while still being a bit modest, which is much more budget-friendly. It’s always lovely that a hotel with this much history is also financially accessible to more travellers. So often, historic hotels are pretty pricey and therefore not an option for many people. But the Hotel Elite tries its best to scale back where it can, to allow its price point to be more accessible.

The standard rooms are beautifully decorated but if you really want to splash out, go for the Renaissance style suites! We booked one of these rooms as the ceilings featured the most elaborate paintings from the 17th century. These pieces are actually protected by the Town Hall as a historical monument of Prague. Dotted throughout the hotel are collectibles, original furniture, and antique parquet floors, which add to the building’s historical atmosphere.

Breakfast

Depending on your booking, breakfast may or may not be included. If your breakfast is not included, it costs 225 CZK per person (around $10 USD). While we had this included in our stay and thoroughly enjoyed it, I wouldn’t pay that much if you had the choice. They have everything you’d expect from a breakfast buffet; cereals, fresh fruit, pastries, cold cuts and made to order omelettes. But for $10 USD, I think you can go out somewhere else in Prague and have a much more authentic breakfast. Compared to the price of the full meals at their restaurant you do feel there is a “tourist tax” employed here for the breakfast menu.

Élite Garden restaurant

Located in the hotel’s courtyard is the Élite Garden restaurant, which specializes in traditional Czech cuisine. The open-air garden was a wonderful place to come and have a drink at night or enjoy a snack in the middle of the day. The delightful greenery and charming statues surrounding the courtyard make for the loveiest dining experience.

The restaurant uses ingredients from local producers and farmers and blends traditional recipes with modern culinary trends. Their lunch menu featuring a 3-course meal is only 145 CZK per person ($6 USD), which is even cheaper than the breakfast! Their dinner menu is ala cart but has a selection of seasonal offerings, which are always my go-to! I loved the grilled spicy pork ribs with cabbage salad and horseradish! For only 195 CZK ($8 USD), its an amazingly filling meal!

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Facilities

In addition to the beautiful garden courtyard where guests can relax outside, there is a small spa on-site. There is an extra cost to use facility but at 500 CZK per person ($20 USD) I would give it a miss. Inside you’ll find a small spa with a sauna and whirlpool. But when I say small, I mean small as the facilities are just big enough for 2 people. This seems super overpriced so we skipped this altogether. They also seemed to offer massages, but these came with mixed reviews.

If you’re looking for a spa experience in Prague, I would recommend Sauna Central. For 2 hours inside the spa, it costs merely 375 CZK ($16 USD). Their facilities include 4 saunas and 1 steam room, a cooling pool, a relaxing cafe and even options for a private wellness room. These private rooms are perfect for couples and include your own private sauna and jacuzzi. These rooms cost 1000 CZK for 1-hour but for two people.

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Accessibility

The elevator serves one side of the hotel and there is a way to cross to the other side. Ask the front desk staff for help accessing it should you require the elevator.

Staff

Although we found that not all the staff members spoke English, you are after all in another country, so some communication difficulties are to be expected. But the staff were always incredibly kind and patient. They even were a great help to me when I wasn’t feeling well and aided us to find a pharmacy and figure out what to ask for.

All in all, the Hotel Elite in Prague was such a highlight of our time in the city. I sincerely hope to go back and stay in another room to experience another side of the history hidden in those walls.

Let me know in the comments where you’ve stayed in Prague and what you recommend. Or, if you’re travelling there for the first time, let me know what you’re looking for in a hotel.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post A Historic Stay at the Hotel Elite Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Admission
3. Access
4. Art Nouveau Architecture
   • Facade
   • Dome
   • Entrance
5. Interior Room & Halls
6. Francouzska Restaurant
7. The Plzenska Restaurant
8. American Bar
9. Kavárna Obecní dům Café
   • Tours of the Municipal House
   • Mayor's Room
10. Palacký Hall
11. Grégr Hall
12. Oriental Lounge
13. Riegr's Hall
14. Confectionary
15. The Smetana Concert Hall and Ballroom
    • iMucha's Exhibition
    • Happy Travels, Adventurers!

History

The medieval Royal Court of Prague once stood on this site. From 1383 until 1485, the Kings and Queens of Bohemia lived on the square nearby in their magnificent palace. The imperial residences were connected to the Royal Court by the nearby Powder Tower. But after Prague Castle was built, Vladislav II moved the Royal Court out to the newly fortified castle complex. After years of being unused, the old Royal Court building was eventually demolished. 

But in 1905, the city started construction on a Municipal House in the same spot as the previous court. They had it built here as this new building would serve as a modern interpretation of a medieval royal court. The building’s architects Osvald Polívka and Antonín Balšánek, set out to design the most magnificent establishment for high society. It was going to be THE PLACE to hold social events, concerts, parties and even public exhibitions. The architects hired some of the best Czech artists to decorate the interior of the new Municipal Hall. These artists’ work elevated the illustrious building’s status even further, creating a kind of artistic time capsule.

Admission

Inside there are a series of bars and restaurants open to the public. But to explore the entirety of the Municipal House, you must book a guided tour. These tours run in both Czech and English several times throughout the day. There are also handouts in other languages to allow more people to experience the building. The tour route goes from the famous Smetana Hall, through to the Confectionery hall. It then stops inside the Moravian Slovak, Božena Němcová, and Oriental Parlours. Followed by the Grégr, Palacký, Riegr, Sladkovský and most importantly, the Mayor’s Hall! The tour ends inside the American Bar in the basement of the Municipal House. Tickets for the tour cost 200 CZK per adult and reservations are recommended but not necessary.

Access

The Municipal House is located inside the old town and is easily walkable if you’re in the area. The closest metro station is Náměstí Republiky, which is only a four minutes walk from the Municipal House. You can also take trams No. 3, 9, 14, 24 to the Jindřišská stop, a 5-minute walk to the Municipal House.

Art Nouveau Architecture

The Municipal House became an icon for Prague’s fantastic Art Nouveau architecture from the minute it opened. Classical Art Nouveau features included in the building were; asymmetrical shapes, arches and curved forms, a large glass dome, plant-like embellishments, mosaics, stained glass and Japanese motifs. 

Facade

The exterior stonework is intricately carved, with vegetal details blooming from reliefs in every corner. The roof is replete with green and red tiles creating a snakeskin-like effect covering the top of the building. Along the facade are curving, ornate bronze balconies with golden leaves growing throughout.

Dome

The piece-de-resistance of the building is the bright green-domed roof, complete with gold trimmings. It feels like a regal crown on top of the rest of the structure. The dome also contains one of the most pleasing stained glass ceilings, which floods natural light into the concert hall. The dome was made to emphasize the Municipal House as a temple of the arts. 

Entrance

Above the building’s entrance, look up to see a brightly coloured mosaic designed by artists Karel Špillar. This piece is called “Prague Apotheosis.” It represents the oppression and eventual rebirth of the Czech people called. An apotheosis is the “highest point in the development of something; culmination or climax,” represented here in the architecture of Prague’s Municipal House.

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On either side of the mosaic are two bronze sculptures. The one on the left is called the “Humiliation of the Nation.” The woman in the center is surrounded in flowing robes, like angel wings. She holds her head to the side, almost as if ashamed to show her face. The sculpture on the right, contrastingly, is called the “Ressurection of the Nation.” This woman stands tall, with a bronze eagle perched on her forearm. The eagle, the symbol of Moravia and the rebirth of the Czech Republic. The Municipal House was built at the very end of the Czech National Revival movement. This cultural event occured during the 18th and 19th century. It’s purpose was to revive the Czech language, culture and national identity.

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Before you walk inside, you pass under a splendid wrought-iron canopy, covered in brightly coloured stained glass. The frontispiece a great example of how art nouveau uses every architectural details as an opportunity for ornamentation. The two columns supporting the entrance are topped with two brozen figures. In their are they carry an electric lantern made by Karel Novak. The models appear to mirror the shape of Atlas as he carries the world on his back. Almost as if to say that this building is itself on top of the world.

Interior Room & Halls

Inside the Municipal House, there are so many different places to eat, drink and be entertained. Each one of the rooms and halls inside was named after notable individuals from the Czech culture. You can eat lunch in an elegant French restaurant. Or drink pivo at a traditional Czech beer hall. Perhaps you want to enjoy a slice of cake (or two) at the stylish Czech café, or sip cocktails at the “American Bar“. If you really want to splash out you can attend a first-class concert at the fabulous Grand Concert Hall, all under one roof. All these places are accessible to the public.

If you cannot take a guided tour of the rest of the interiors read the rest of this post. I’ve made sure to talk about the most important rooms inside the Municipal House. This way, if you’re sitting inside the cafe, you can still peruse images of what the rest of the building looks like.

Francouzska Restaurant

If you don’t have time for a concert but are longing to enjoy the elegant art nouveau environment, choose from one of the many dining options inside the Prague’s Municipal House. Francouzska Restaurant is one of the finest culinary experiences you can have in Prague. Golden art nouveau inspired chandeliers pour off the high ceiling. The large windows allow the entire room to fill with light and all the gilt and glass details simply glimmer with excitement.

Throughout the restaurant, you’ll find original furnishings from the beginning of the 1920s. Even the silverware is period-perfect. Throughout the restaurant, you’ll find reproductions of decorative paintings such as “Prague Welcoming its Guest” by J. Wenig and “Hradcany and the New World” by A. Zahel in the salon. Stucco designs of the art nouveau period patterns adorn entertaining diners. Dining here is like entering a living museum. This is the most expensive of all the restaurants in the Municipal House but worth it for the experience. The restaurant is unfortunately temporarily closed until the end of 2020 for renovations.

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The Plzenska Restaurant

The Plzenska restaurant, which is on the lower level, is a slightly more affordable option. It is famous for its traditional Czech cuisine and friendly beer hall atmosphere. I think this is truly the best beer hall in the entirety of Prague. It is stunning to look at while also comfortably casual. There is something about the brightly coloured blue tiles set against the rich oak panels and the simple, yet elegant, stained glass that make you feel like you’ve been invited into someone’s prized dining room. The food here is also impeccable. If you have yet to sample any classic Czech meal, this is the perfect place to do so.

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American Bar

Also, in the basement is the “American Bar.” Here you can get a well-made cocktail or spirit and enjoy the swish atmosphere of a 1940’s salon. The vaulted room features a vestibule decorated with the picture “Heron” by Mikolas Ales. Several copies of the artist’s famous drawings are also located inside the recesses of the bar. The American Bar was one of the first public establishments which ladies could visit without a male accompaniment and that atmosphere of bohemian freedom is still present today.

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Kavárna Obecní dům Café

To finish off your dining options inside the Municipal House, wander into the Kavárna Obecní dům café, on the ground floor. This cafe is considered to be one of the best in the world. Although they are most famous for their desserts, this is also a great place to grab a bite to eat if you’re looking for a good meal at a reasonable price.

All the furnishings from the chandeliers, mirrors and fabulous electric lighting in here was designed by Osvald Polivka, one of the most aesthetically pleasing art nouveau designers of the time.

It’s open late, so it’s a great option to grab that last coffee before heading out for a night on the town, or a nightcap before going to bed (which is more my speed). During the summertime, the patio out front is a charming place to people watch. You can sip your coffee early in the morning watching the locals heading off to work.

Although main courses are delicious, their sweet treats are where they really shine. Homemade cakes make the rounds in glass trolleys so you can see the goods before you buy them. Their cream cake with fresh berries is a incredible creation that will satisfy any palette.

While waiting on your food take some time to wander around the restaurant. Check out the fountain at the back of the cafe with a sculpture of a beautiful Nymph in the center by artist Josef Pekarek.

Tours of the Municipal House

To explore the private rooms throughout the rest of the building, you’ll need to book a guided tour. The tour will take you throughout the Smetana Hall, Confectionery, Moravian Slovak Parlour, Božena Němcová Parlour, Oriental Parlour, Grégr Hall, Palacký Hall, Mayor’s Hall, Riegr Hall, and Sladkovsky Hall. The tours run about twice a day in English and cost 290 Kč for adults.

Mayor’s Room

If you’d rather just read about what’s inside, while you enjoy your meal, I’ve written out the details of the other fantastical spaces inside Prague’s Municipal House. Hidden away behind locked doors, up on the third floor, accessible only by guided tour or private rental, is the great Mayor’s Room. Seeing as this was the room where guests initially would be greeted upon entry, the architects wanted it to feel so awe-inspiring right from the get-go. The architects hired the best art nouveau artists to decorate their interiors, and none were more infamous than Alphonse Mucha himself. Mucha had been charged with painting the interior of this superior room. Mucha not only painted all the murals you see here but also created everything from the decorations to the furniture, curtains and even down to the very last lamp.

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Vaults & Lunettes

Each of the vaults holding up the great dome is painted with figures from Czech history framed alongside symbolic images of the civic virtues. The most notable of them is Jan Hus, dressed in his scholarly dark robes, with the beautiful woman of Justice, standing behind him. You can also spot general Jan Žižka painted alongside Fortitude and the Chodové (a Medieval guard) with the image of beady-eyed Vigilance. Jan Amos Komensky is painted with Loyalty, and St. Ludmila and St. Wenceslas are swathed in the arms of Maternal Wisdom.

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On the lunettes that encircle the room are various paintings by Mucha detailing different morality themes upon which the Czech culture was built. A darkened image displays the “Holy Mother of a Nation, Accept love and fervour of your son.” A fiery portrait of three people depicts “With Power comes Freedom – with love, Unanimity.” On the right, a haunting painting shows tortured souls lost in the darkness, an image representing the theme “Humiliated and tortured – resurrected, you will be in our homeland.”

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On the walls in between each of these murals are silver capitals with women’s faces carved upon them. These faces represent loyalty, fortitude, maternal wisdom, justice, independence, non-submissiveness, vigilance and strength. The embroidery on the curtains here was designed by Mucha himself and features a motif of peacocks abstracted plumed feathers. 

On the walls of the mayor’s hall are a series of armchairs. Inlaid into the backrests are paintings entitled, “The Czech Crown” and the “Weeping over the Destruction of the Homeland” by Alphonse Mucha.

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Palacký Hall

To the west of the Mayor’s Room is Palacký Hall. This room is covered in figurative paintings by Jan Preisler. The interior fur shined with art nouveau chandeliers, brass mirrors all in Assyrian style. The Assyrian artistic style is from the ancient world, first appearing in 1500 BCE but breathed new life by the art nouveau period. The style features relief sculptures made in stone.

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A bust of Palacký by Josef Václav Myslbek stands in the rooms honouring the Czech historian and politician. Palacký was one of the most influential people in developing the Czech National Revival and called “Father of the Nation.” On the ceiling is a great fresco featuring the scene of a young boy and girl surrounded by a flock of flying birds.

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Grégr Hall

Further to the west, we find Grégr Hall. This long room features a large balcony on its left-wing, providing the most stunning views across the city. The room is tiled in artificial marble, giving it a regal, luxurious appearance. On the western wall, we can find a triptych entitled “Songs of love, war and death” by František Ženíšek. There is another triptych called “Life, poetry, death” by the same painter on the ceiling. It’s interesting to see so many death paintings in such a vibrant space, but perhaps this image of impending death allows us to remind us to live life to the fullest.

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Oriental Lounge

At the end of Grégr Hall, there is a small staircase leading to the Oriental Lounge. This room features decoration inspired by Islamic-Anatolian art. It was originally known as the Serbian lounge. Anatolia had a strong Byzantine and Armenian Christian heritage, which is visible in its artforms.

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Riegr’s Hall

The room, opposite Palacký Hall, called Riegr’s Hall, is embellished with images of notable Czech personalities painted by Max Švabinský. He titled the paintings “Czech Spring” as it features all these different influential men together in imagined scenes of an idyllic springtime. Busts of politicians František Ladislav Rieger by Josef Václav Myslbek are also featured inside this room. The lower half of the room is painted a rich Azul blue and covered in lush blue stuffed benches.

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Confectionary

At one point in the building’s history, the Municipal House had its own confectionery and patisserie! It was the largest of the relaxing salons, often called the “ladies’ parlours.” Although no sweet treats are being made fresh inside this room today, it is still one of the most fabulously decorated rooms in the building. Filled to the brim with gilt stucco decorations and oak framed mirrors, the place absolutely sparkles.

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The Smetana Concert Hall and Ballroom

The Smetana Concert Hall and Ballroom are located right under the magnificent glass dome. To visit this place outside of being on tour, you’ll need to have booked a ticket to see a performance. The concert hall plays hosts to many musicians and is the home to the Czech National Symphony Orchestra.

Inside this room, you’ll find artwork pieces by Alfonse Mucha, Jan Preisler and Max Švabinský decorating the ceilings and walls. The interior of the concert hall is covered in white stone and gold filigree. The entire theatre is illuminated by hundreds of tiny lights, casting a gentle golden glow upon the people below. The stage is framed by arcing sculptures depicting Vyšehrad legends and Slavic dances. It is truly an honorific place of Czech arts and culture.

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iMucha’s Exhibition

Currently on display inside the Municipal House is the iMucha Exhibition. This gallery uses technologies of the 21st century to display numerous of Mucha’s art posters which have been digitally remastered to be displayed with motion. Transforming the static material into a lifelike work of art. The exhibition also presents over 200 artifacts from the artist’s life. Tickets to the exhibition costs 290 Kč for adults but there is a discounted price if you book with a guided tour. Running until March 2024.

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If you have the chance to tour Prague’s Municipal House, run, don’t walk, to visit! Don’t let the rather dull name of the building fool you; this place is one of the most outstanding artistic achievements of the Czech National Revival and deserves all your attention. Plus, there is nothing better than dining inside an incredible environment to fill your eyes and mind with wonder and excitement.

Let me know what treasures you discovered in Prague or if you’re planning on visiting the Municipal House for yourself on your next trip!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Best Visitors Guide to the Art Nouveau Interiors of Prague’s Municipal House first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Touring the building also serves as a history lesson about the Slavic people, Czech culture and even art. The basilica doesn’t have St. Vitus’s lofty status or the draw that St. Nicholas’ Church gets. But if you make an effort to come down and visit, you’ll see what the rest of those unknowing tourists are missing out on.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Location
3. Hours & Admission
4. Towers
5. Facade
6. Interior
7. Frescos
8. The Treasure Room
9. Vyšehrad Cemetery

History

The church was founded in 1070 by the Czech King Vratislav II. Initially, it was a simple Romanesque Basilica. Prince Vratislav II had the church built in purposeful opposition to St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague Castle. Almost a hundred years earlier, his predecessor, Wenceslaus I, had built St. Vitus Cathedral. But rather than pray instead of this old church, Vratislav wanted to make something of his own to mark his reign. In Vyšehrad, Vratislav was said to have brought 12 baskets of stones upon which they built the foundation of what would become the Basilica of St Peter and St Paul.

But, in 1249, a great fire destroyed the church, and the original design was lost to the ages. The first reconstruction was a relatively meagre endeavour meant to restore the building only in function and not in fashion. Years later, a baroque frontispiece was added to the church, but the neo-gothic renovations in the 1880s removed any trace of this architecture.

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Joseph Mocker

In 1885, a new renovation was commissioned to create an elaborate, neo-gothic church. Master builder Joseph Mocker was the original architect, but he died halfway through construction. His partner František Mikš finished the job. Now having complete artistic control of the operations, Mikš made a few changes to the original layout to suit his own personal style. His main addition to the design was the towering facade that the church is now so famous for. As it peaks out of the hillside in Vysehrad.

Location

The Basilica is located inside the complex of Vysehrad. Vysehrad is one of Prague’s old fortresses situated on a high cliff above the river Vltava. From here, soldiers could easily see any incoming armies and it was a prime location for Prague’s infantry. In the 11th century, Vysehrad was also the seat of the first King of Bohemia. After the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV began to build the Prague Castle in the early 14th century, Vyšehrad was abandoned as the royal family’s primary residence.

The complex was left to deteriorate for years and wasn’t touched until Charles IV decided to renew the area. He wanted to build new fortifications, a new royal palace, and finally see to the renovations at the Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul. But, with the Hussite war’s dawn, progress was discontinued, and the church was ransacked once more. It wouldn’t be for another few hundred years that the church would be restored to a new form of heavenly glory.

Hours & Admission

November – March
Monday – Saturday 10 am – 5 pm
Sunday 11:30 am – 5 pm

April – October
Monday – Saturday 10 am – 6 pm (5:30 on Thursday)
Sunday 11:30 am – 6 pm

There is a small entrance fee to access the church. Adult entry costs 90 CZK ($4 USD), which is more than worth it to explore this treasure!

Towers

Upon walking up to the church one of the first things you’ll be drawn to, are the two huge towers, which flank the skyline. Let your eyes float up to the top of the spires, and notice that they are indeed hollow. Their design was influenced by the chestnut flowers’ cone-like formations. Architect Miks was inspired by these plants, which bloom right behind the church in Vyšehrad cemetery. Decorating the spires’ outer edges and the triangular gables are frilled, petal-like protrusions which make the entire structure look more naturalistic than man-made.

Facade

The design of the building is quite unique as it features no transept. A transept is the part of the building that forms the classical shape of a cross and cuts through the center of the church. Since the building has no horizontal intersection, when you look at it from the front it almost looks like a movie set, an exterior with nothing behind it. So when you walk inside, it’s almost a surprise to see his lofty, extended interior.

Above the central entrance door is the tympanum, decorated an intricate carving of Jesus standing tall beside his apostles, during the Last Judgement. Below the group of the apostles, St. Michael is centred, ushering people into heaven. A chorus of angel trumpets their horns above his head, announcing their entry to the heavenly realm. The people around St. Michael are sculpted as crippled and in pain, weighed down by the burden of their sins.

St. Peter and St. Paul

Above the central portal is a great pediment featuring the two saints’ statues after which the church is named after. St. Peter and St. Paul are set on either side of the sculpture of Jesus, crowned with a golden halo, reaching his hand out in prayer to the people below.

Mosaics on the church’s frontispiece, set into quatrefoils frames, depict St. Peter and St. Paul’s portraits. Peter’s symbols are a set of keys, which are the keys to heaven. Peter is the one with a bright white beard wearing papal vestments. Paul holds a book and a sword with a hilt in the shape of a cross in his hands. Paul is depicted as traditionally represented with a long pointed beard and a more modest, grey robe.

Portals

The portals on either side of the central entrance are adorned with brightly coloured mosaics. Etched onto the church’s door are the symbols of the coat of arms of the Czech Republic. The silver double-tailed lion on a red background and the black Moravian eagle are repeated across the grand entrance doors.

Above the entry doors, on your left, is the emblem of the Vysehrad Chapter house. The chapter was established here at the basilica around 1070 at the behest of Bohemia’s first king. The branch was subordinate only to Rome and could influence many aspects of Bohemia’s internal and foreign policy. Their emblem is two golden keys crossed tied together by rope. A symbol you’ll come across multiple times throughout your visit here.

Interior

As you step into the church, the first thing you’ll be stuck with is the fact that from floor to ceiling, the entire building is COVERED in murals and paintings. Not a column, nor walls, has been left untouched. The detailed pictures sweep across the walls like embroidery covering a royal gown. Floral trimmings cover every inch of the temple, giving you the feeling of walking into a forest.

Art Nouveau

As you walk inside, the light shimmers off every surface. Gilding and gold leaf were used in abundance during the renovations. But unlike other neo-gothic cathedrals and churches of the time, this one is not purely high gothic, but instead embraces art nouveau sensibilities. Art nouveau was sweeping the nation during the time church was being renovated. Art nouveau attempted to reject academic, historical art and instead embraced natural forms, movement, asymmetry and modern materials.

The addition of art nouveau inside this old church feels shockingly appropriate as the first King of Bohemia himself aimed to reject any previously established traditions when he originally built this church.

Frescos

The Basilica’s most extraordinary characteristic is the gilded frescos, which surround the faithful who come to pray. These paintings are ornate, undulating images by painter František Urban and his wife, Marie Urbanová-Zahradnická. These paintings look famously similar to the iconic designs made by famous Czech painter Alphonse Mucha. Many people who visit the church might even be convinced they were by Mucha if they further inquired. But Mucha was merely a trendsetter who inspired Urban and Zahradnická to fall on the bandwagon. Women and men, with delicate features and cascading hair, embellish the walls and archways.

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Running up every pillar are blooming patterns and colourful ribbons. The walls contain lots of vivid greens and deep brown hues, continuing the woodland theme. Even the dark church benches were carved with oak leaves, bringing the outdoors inside. Not a single item inside the church was left untouched by Art Nouveau’s seductive technique.

Murals

The murals on the northern wall feature images of St. Cyril and St. Methodius’ arrival in Bohemia. St. Cyril and St. Methodius were two brothers, theologians and missionaries who made their mark in Christianity by evangelizing the Slavs. They are known as the “Apostles to the Slavs.” Their life story is told across these murals framed by a series of angels who look down on the scene from heaven. Although there might not be any text to follow the images, it’s a visual way of understanding this part of Czech history. On the south wall, the murals depict the establishment of Vysehrad in the Czech Republic.

Look up at the vaults on the ceiling. Even they are painted with images of beautiful angels in prayer, looking down on the faithful below.

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Stained Glass Windows

Brightly coloured stained glass enhances the outer walls of the Basilica. Each window depicts a scene from the bible. But what makes these windows even more interesting to study is to look at the elements of architecture that have been incorporated into the glasswork. This is done almost to evoke the idea that architecture itself is a form of religious devotion. Renaissance tracery windows, gothic quatrefoils and baroque altarpieces all serve as the framing devices around these dramatic biblical stories.

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Chapel of St. Clement

Walking into the church, we will study it from the right side chapels, towards the altar and then continue back down the left side chapels and finish in the treasury. The first chapel you see upon entering on your right is the Chapel of St. Clement. Here, you can look at a Romanesque sarcophagus from the 12th century. During the Romanesque period, a crypt was built in the church to bury the first Bohemian king and his descendants. This coffin most likely belongs to one of these royal family members. Despite its modest and unassuming appearance, it’s one of the oldest treasures of the church.

Chapel of Czech Patron Saints

Inside the Chapel of Czech Patron Saints is a fabulous neo-gothic altar sculpted by Czech artist J. Kastner in 1910. In the center of the altar is Christ on the cross, heavenly rays illuminating from his body and from behind the cross, forming a golden backdrop. Below him are gathered St. Cyril and St. Methodius dressed in brighly coloured robes. In front of them kneels St. Wenceslas on the left and St. Ludmila on the right. On the left side of the group are Czech saints St. Vit and St. Vojtěch, and behind them stands St. Sigismund and members of brotherhood of martyrs. On the right side, kneels St. Jan Nepomucký and St. Prokop. Above them stands St. Norbert, Vol. Anežka, and Damian, St. Ivan, vol. Josef.

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Chapel of the Virgin Mary of the Rain

One of the most important items found here in the basilica is the Dešťová or the icon of the Virgin Mary of Rain. She can be found in the fourth side chapel from the right after entering the church. This wooden polychrome icon depicts the Virgin Mary and the baby Jesus set against a vibrant blue backdrop. The background is textured to give the mother and child the appearance of being caught in a rainstorm. The ground on which they stand is bright green like it is growing swiftly beneath them.

The painting was made around 1356 and is legend to have been painted by St. Luke himself. This icon is one in which people come from all over the country to pray in front of, especially in times of drought. The reason for this is because in 1638 there was a great drought in Prague which the icon is said to have stopped. During the drought, one of the priests of the Vyšehrad chapter had a dream that if he held a procession with the Madonna, it would start to rain before the crowds made their way to a nearby monastery. The priest organized the march, and sure enough, it rained in Prague for the next three days. The people of Bohemia saw it as a miracle, and ever since, the painting has been venerated by all those who believe in it.

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Memorial Plaque

To the left of the Chapel of the Virgin of the Ramparts is a bronze memorial plaque placed on a column close to the altar. This memorial plaque is dedicated to Vratislav II, the first King of Bohemia. The plaque is a modern addition to the church added in 1992 on the 900th anniversary of the King’s death. If you look at the shape embedded onto the plaque, it models the original basilica floor plan. On either side of the statue of the King are two crests, one which contains the black eagle of Moravia and the other has the two crossed keys which are the emblem of the Vyšehrad religious chapter.

Presbytery

On either side of the presbytery, there are murals depicting St. Peter and Paul’s legend. We can see the ‘Conversation of St.Paul‘ on the top left pediment on the northern wall. The following small scenes show his miracles: healing the disabled, his conversations with God while in jail and finally his beheading and subsequent canonization

On the southern side, we have the legend of St. Peter. On the top, we see Jesus converting his first disciples, which include Peter himself. In the lower images, we can see scenes of Jesus and Peter’s life together. It follows their journey leading up to Jesus’ crucifixion, including the moment when Peter denied Jesus. At the bottom of the mural, we can spot St. Peter performing miracles and his eventual death in the same manner as he had seen Jesus be put to death.

Altar

The main altar, framed in front of a series of brilliant stained glass windows, contains depictions of the Slav Saints Cyril and Methodius. It was carved by the architect and woodcarver Josef Hrubeš. The entire altar took over 5 years to be completed and was finished in 1889.

Pulpit

The gracefully carved wooden pulpit on the left of the nave features reliefs of the various priests who preached and were prior members of the Vyšehrad Chapter. The pulpit was designed by architect Josef Mocker and carved by woodworker V. Mráz in 1883.

Devil’s Pillar

After getting over the initial awe and wonder of the interior, take a walk towards the sacristry. Although you cannot enter the doors of the sacristy, take a look at the mural painted above the entry. Here we find a large baroque painting depicting the legend of the “Devil’s Pillar.”

The Legend

The legend goes that a priest in Bohemia, had a severe problem with gambling. In the hopes of freeing himself from his debts, he asked the devil to trade his soul for some luck. But shortly after making the deal, he greatly regretted this decision and asked the devil to forget the agreement. But the devil would not give up on a soul that easily. Instead the devil made him another bet. He told him that if the priest could finish celebrating mass before the devil could bring a column from St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome to Prague, he would release him from his contract. The priest ran as fast as he could to the church where he began preforming mass.

Of course, the devil cheated, and when he arrived by magic with the pillar in hand, St. Peter appeared and threw the devil into the sea three times. Each time he threw him, St. Peter broke the column until it was broken into three pieces. This allowed the priest to finish preforming mass, and his soul was saved. The three pieces of the Devil’s pillar were brought to Prague and can still be found in a nearby park close to the church.

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Chapel of St. Francis of Assisi

The Chapel of St. Francis of Assisi contains a neo-gothic altar with paintings of the life of St. Francis surrounding a large portrait of the saint himself. One of the best ways to identify St. Francis is by how he holds his hands outwards to show off the stigma that appears on them.

Chapel of St. John of Nepomuk

St. Jan Nepomucký or St. John of Nepomuk is one of the most famous saints in Bohemia. Nepomuk was drowned in the Vltava river at the behest of Wenceslaus IV when Nepomuk would not divulge the queen of Bohemia’s confessions to the King. His chapel here in the church contains a Neo-Gothic relic altar. Across the altar are scenes from the life of St. John of Nepomuk by Josef Mathauser who painted it around 1700. In the center of the altar of dozens of relics which are said to contain pieces of the saint himself.

Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows

Inside the Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows is an alluring sculpture of the Pietà by Ferdinand Stuplesser made in 1898. It was modelled off Michelangelo‘s famous Pietà in Rome but features sharper edges and more angular drapery, reflecting the style used in medieval manuscripts.

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The Treasure Room

The Vyšehrad Chapter was one of the more affluent monastic groups and collected valuable liturgical collections over the years. But in 1611, many of their most precious objects were looted during the Hussite wars. A few of their most treasured items were hidden away and can be seen on display inside the treasury. The Treasury inside the church contains all different precious ecclesiastical Czech objects. Baroque illustrated manuscripts, golden chalices and gem covered books hid behind protective glass.

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Some of the most precious items included in the treasury are reliquaries. A reliquary is a container for relics such as a saints’ physical remains, such as bones, pieces of clothing, or some object associated with saints or other religious figures. Here in the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul’s treasury you can find

St Valentine’s Relic

St Valentine’s relics. It is supposedly a chip of his shoulder blade. It was lost for years, and as recently as 2002, it was uncovered hidden away inside a gold-and-glass Baroque reliquary in the back of a long-forgotten storage closet.

Vyšehrad Cemetery

The set behind the church is the Vyšehrad Cemetery. Built in 1869, the cemetery was created as a resting place for some of Prague’s most treasured creatives. Here lies dozens of composers, artists, sculptors, writers, as well as those revolutionaries from the world of science and politics. The cemetery is the largest in Prague spreading over 0.81 hectares.

Slavín Tomb

The most majestic part of the cemetery is the Slavín Tomb, designed by Antonín Wiehl. The Slavín Tombs are considered a ‘pantheon,’ “a building in which the illustrious dead of a nation are buried or honoured.” The dramatic sculpture atop the tombs was carved by Josef Mauder. The pantheon contains 44 burial tombs, as well as various coffins and urns. 55 people were buried here under the magnanimous sculptures of “Mourning” and “Victory” represented as two alluring women.

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Famous Graves

Buried here is Alphonse Mucha, king of Czech Art Nouveau, along with; composer Antonín Dvořák, Art Nouveau sculptor Ladislav Šaloun, author Karel Čapek and many more.

The first person to be buried inside the Slavin Tomb was poet Julius Zeyer in 1901. On the tomb is inscribed one of his verses, “Its sons’ dust this mourning country returns to the earth. Their deeds it will, rejoicing, declare to all mankind.” Above the panels on the Slavín is written their motto, “Though dead, they still speak.”

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The rest of the tombs and gravestones found throughout the cemetery are wildly creative and works of art. It seemed like one after another, when people would pass away and be buried here, there was an expectation that their gravestone wouldn’t be something simple or traditional, rather something far more extraordinary.

There is even a large arcade, decorated with Tuscan sandstone pillars and a vaulted ceiling covered in art nouveau style paintings.

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This brings us to the end of the tour, but if you’re interested in spending more time in Vyšehrad, I implore you to do so! Just like this church is such a hidden gem, Vyšehrad has so many incredible places to visit and excellent restaurants that are happily tucked away from the tourist hoards.

In the comments, let me know if you were surprised not to see this church on other “must-see” lists in Prague or if you’ve been there before and were just as amazed as me by what you discovered!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Discover & Uncover the Hidden Gems of the Basilica of St Peter and St Paul in Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

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Locations & Hours

The Hemingway Bar in Prague can be found down the quiet cobblestone side street, Karoliny Světlé below an unassuming door front. It’s open every day of the week at 5 pm (except Mondays when it opens at 7 pm) and closes between 1, and 2 am.

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The Experience

Stepping inside, the first thing you’ll notice is how dark it is. A sparingly few warm lights on the ceiling guide your way, reflecting off the rows of booze bottles behind the bar, like a liqueur library. A few tables throughout the bar are lit with candles, which allow you to barely make out the other patron’s faces. Pictures of Hemingway decorate the walls along with images of patrons from times gone by. 

While there are various tables inside, sitting at the bar is the best place to be. Not only does it give you the chance to chat, but it also lets you watch the bartenders do their stuff. Study them as they effortlessly grab bottles from the bar without even looking at the label. They move like dances around the bar, concocting boozy potions in elegant glasses. 

Cocktails

Ernest Hemingway was a great drinker, in addition to being a great writer. Perhaps the two go hand in hand? But being a seasoned lush, he knew how to make a good cocktail. So much so that he perfected many a recipe throughout his lifetime, and now these concoctions are even named after him. The most famous being the “Hemingway Daiquiri” which is the most popular drink in here. The Hemingway Daiquiri consists of fresh lime, pink grapefruit juice, a dash of syrup, a maraschino cherry, and a 13-year-old-rum. Shockingly, this only cost $10 USD! Other house specialties are the Gin Fizz and their famous Old Fashioned. The best part of their cocktail menu is all the drinks are both imaginative, expertly executed and rooted in history.

I was genuinely shocked by the prices here! Just by the gorgeous appearance of this place, you’d think the drinks would cost a fortune! But they didn’t. It was so much fun getting to try out all different fancy cocktails. I usually would never indulge in fear it would bankrupt me! The bartenders were so cheery, and I loved asking them for suggestions or recommendations. By the end of the night, I felt like we were best friends.

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Absinthe

Here in Prague, one of the most popular drinks to try is absinthe, and the Hemingway Bar has an extensive selection to choose from! Absinthe is an anise-flavoured spirit derived from botanicals, including the flowers and leaves of Artemisia absinthium (otherwise known as Wormwood). The liqueur is then mixed with green anise, sweet fennel, and other medicinal and culinary herbs. These herbs are what give the absinthe that iconic green hue.

To drink this beverage properly, you’ll need an Absinthe Fountain. Hemingways has dozens of original glass Absinthe Fountains which are beautiful works of art and heightens the drinking experience. The fountains are essentially a decanter containing the proper mixture of absinthe and ice-cold water. The fountains have multiple spigots that slowly (and hands-free) drip the mix down, over a silver slotted spoon with a sugar cube on top of your glass. The slow drip over the sugar cube allows the flavours to “blossom” in ways they could not if they were poured straight over the sugar all at once. The spoons and glasses are entirely different and little historical treasures which make drinking absinthe a real experience.

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Is absinthe safe

“Is absinthe safe?” you might ask. In films, like Moulin Rouge, absinthe is often portrayed as a dangerous hallucinogenic drug. This was thought to be accurate due to the chemical compound thujone present in the spirit in trace amounts. This led to it being banned in the United States and Europe at the start of the 1900s. But in realizing it is no more dangerous than ordinary spirits. However, due to its high alcohol content, it just might get you drunk much much quicker, so drink in moderation!

While absinthe is seen as a very touristy thing to drink in Prague, Hemingways specializes in exceptional absinthe. They carry hundreds of varieties and even have synthesized replicas of historic recipes. The bartenders here are kind and generous with their time to help first-timers properly experience how to drink absinthe. In other bars, drinking absinthe might single you out as a tourist, and you’re more likely to get ripped off. Hemingways understands the draw, and instead of seeing this as a negative, they really try to provide you with the best experience possible.

Cigars

Hemingway was also famously a cigar lover. The bar offers up an array of cigars for you to enjoy along with your drink. We ordered a Cuban, and the bartender expertly cut and lit it for us. After lighting the cigar, he passed us a beautiful vintage ash-tray to get the soot off the bar. It did feel like stepping back in time, the heady smell of tobacco in the air, and ice rattling in thick glass tumblers. 

The bar’s ventilation is as old as it looks, so the smoke hangs in the air. If you’re sensitive to this, you might want to either give this place a miss of just be quick about your time inside. There is a small non-smoking section on the half level. Still, it’s not separated by any walls, so there will always be some carryover.

Hemingways is the perfect place to spend a relaxed evening after wandering this magical city. It felt like the perfect blend of rustic charm but with fantastic hospitality. Don’t miss it!

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The post Experience Awesome Hospitality at Hemingway Bar in Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Exploring a city at the crack of dawn, before a sole other than myself hits the streets, is one of my favourite things to do. What can I say? I’m an introvert. But once I finally decided to see Prague for myself, I found sneaky little ways of avoiding the hordes of tourists. I found that most of the group tours just stuck to certain areas and it was easy to find peaceful promenades just a block over. I also just accepted that they, just like myself, were here to savour this awe-inspiring city. (Except for those who come here solely for the cheap beer and sloppy parties, they’re a breed all on their own.)

Instead of avoiding the town altogether, it was merely a matter of heading off the tourist track and discovering a hidden Prague for myself, and I wanted to share one of my favourite off-typical tourist track guides with you!

The Lesser Quarter

One of my most cherished neighbourhoods in Prague was Malá Strana, which translates into “the Lesser Quarter.” Malá Strana is divided between the lower and upper halves of the western hillside, opposite the Vltava River. The upper half consists mainly of Prague Castle, where most tourists flock (with good reason), but the rest of the Lesser Town has a more subdued vibe. With fewer big-ticket attractions, you’ll find slightly fewer tourists along these streets. But you’ll still discover streets lined with historic Burgher houses, astonishing churches and adorable cafes and restaurants.

Table Of Contents

1. The Lesser Quarter
2. How Long does this Walking Tour Take?
3. When to go?
4. Access
5. History
6. Starting Point: Legions Bridge
7. Kampa Island
8. The Devils Inlet
9. Liechtenstein Palace
10. Love Lock Bridge
11. The Lennon Wall
12. Květinářství U Červeného Lva
13. Lesser Town Bridge Tower
    • Judith's Tower
    • Higher Tower
14. Míšeňská
15. Café Club Míšeňská
16. Shakespeare a synové
17. Narrowest Street in Prague
18. Vojan Park 
19. St. Joseph Church
20. St. Thomas Church
21. Velikovský house
22. Malostranské náměstí
23. The Lower Square
24. The Upper Square
25. St. Nicholas Church
    • Interior of the Church
    • Mozart in Prague
26. Fragnerova Pharmacy
27. Nerudova Street
28. Gingerbread Museum
29. Prague Chocolate Bistro
30. Jan Neruda Dedication
31. AMI Marionettes
32. Baráčnická rychta
33. Prague Castle View
34. Happy Travels Adventurers!

How Long does this Walking Tour Take?

If you choose to go inside the various buildings we pass along the way and stop for a coffee or a meal, I would save half a day for the tour to take it at a comfortable pace. This tour pairs perfectly with the Prague Castle Tour since both can be found in the western half of Prague.

When to go?

Since we are trying to stay off the extremely busy pathways, you can take this tour any time. If you’re looking for it to be very empty, try to go early in the morning and or late in the afternoon or evening. Nothing compares to the sunrise and sunset across the Vltava river.

Access

Our tour begins on Legions Bridge. To reach this bridge by public transport, you can take trams; 2, 3, 13, 14, 17 or 18 to the Národní Divadlo stop. No matter where you’re coming from in the city, this place is relatively easy to reach on the tram since there are so many stops nearby. Everything in Prague is also very walkable, and from the Old Town, the bridge is only 15 minutes away.

History

Malá Strana, or “Lesser Quarter,” was established by King Ottokar II of Bohemia in 1257. He divided the city into two halves, separated by the river and the Charles Bridge. The right side of town was the centre of the bourgeois, native Czech population. The left bank, however, was made up of many more German and Italian citizens, along with the most opulent noble palaces.

The king brought German craftsmen to help establish his city as having some of the finest craftsmen in Europe. In 1541 the town suffered massive damages due to fires set by invading armies. When it was rebuilt, Baroque architecture was the dominant style, and to this day, we can still explore the pastel-coloured burgher houses and ornate facades that Prague’s baroque movement was so iconic for. As you walk through the town, down quaint side streets and ancient alleyways, you feel you’ve been transported through time.

Starting Point: Legions Bridge

While most tours of the Malá Strana might start you off entering via the grand gates on the Charles Bridge, I would advise taking the back entrance into town instead. Legions Bridge allows you access to Lesser Town without fighting through a crush of people. The views from the Legions Bridge across to the Charles Bridge and Prague Castle are also incredible! If you’re ever interested in taking a paddle boat out on the river you can watch other happy paddlers out on the waterways enjoying the views and a bit of sunshine.

Kampa Island

Across the bridge, just to the left, as you arrive, you’ll find Kampa Island. This little island is a peaceful, green retreat where you’ll find lots of local Czech families enjoying some time outdoors. This island was originally man-made, constructed in the 12th century, and once used mainly as a place where women could wash and bleach linen by the river. Today, the island is also home to the Kampa Modern Art Museum, littered with modernist sculptures. Some of the most intriguing is the giant bronze babies who crawl along the grounds of the island, somewhat creepy but definitely interesting.

The Devils Inlet

To the island’s west is a small stream from the river Vltava. This charming waterway has a rather nefarious name. They call it ‘Čertovka,’ which in English means “the Devil’s Inlet.” The name is supposedly derived from a nearby house called ‘U semi čertů‘ or “at the Seven Devils.” Along the Čertovka you’ll find remnants of old medieval mills which used the canal as their primary form of power in the 12th century. The Grand Priory Mill or ‘Velkopřevorský Mlýn‘ is the most famous and iconic of these. Today, the mill has been renovated into an upscale (rather meh) restaurant but still has the original waterwheel outside on display. I’ve marked it on the map so you can look closer as you pass it.

IF Café

Just across from the Čertovka, you’ll find IF Café. This cafe is the perfect place to grab a bit of breakfast or just a cup of coffee. If you haven’t had the chance to fuel up for the rest of the tour, this is a great opportunity. This restaurant serves fantastic coffee and is always surprisingly quiet for being close to a tourist mecca. Whether you’re here for breakfast or lunch, this place has dishes which will make you drool! And the best part is the pastries! They look like works of art or blooming flowers sitting quietly inside their glass case ready to be devoured.

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Liechtenstein Palace

Just on the other side of the road from the cafe is Liechtenstein Palace. This cream-coloured, old Palace, built in the 16th century, was Prague’s most extensive baroque construction. And while the exterior might look sweet and simple, this place is known as home to one of the cruellest and most ruthless men in Prague’s history, the “Bloody vice-regent” Lichtenstein. He is known as the “bloody regent” due to his murderous rule, where he ordered the deaths of 27 leaders of the Hussite rebellions in 1621. The leaders were beheaded in Old Town square despite dozens of relatives who begged the Regent to spare their lives. Today, 27 cast-iron heads are mounted as pseudo gargoyles along the front of the Palace to commemorate the event.

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Love Lock Bridge

Continue walking along Hroznová street until you reach the Grand Priory Mill, as mentioned above. A small bridge juts out over the Čertovka, where you can look across the stream to the adorable houses facing the waterway. The wrought iron fencing that protects visitors from falling into the river has become a strange tourist attraction. A popular trend across Europe popped up in the mid-2000s where lovers would swear their eternal fidelity to each other by leaving a padlock with their initials on the bridge and throwing the key in the water below. 

While this might seem romantic, sealing your love into your favourite location on your travels, the reality is much different. These locks have severely damaged many historic bridges since they were never built to support such weight. Cities have now begun to cut them down to save the integrity of the bridges. So while you might think this is a cute idea, think twice before leaving your love lock here. You might find it to be cut down the next day…which is a must less romantic metaphor.

The Lennon Wall

Across the bridge and along Velkopřevorské náměstí you’ll find the famous Lennon Wall. The Lennon Wall is a favourite spot for tourists and locals alike. Since the 1980s, people have been visiting this wall and covering it with graffiti relating to John Lennon and the Beatles. It represents all of John Lennon’s ideals: peace, love and equality. The origins of the first piece of graffiti are unknown, but it seemed to have caught on like wildfire.

In addition to Lennon-inspired graffiti, in 1988, the wall became a place where young Czechs could air their grievances about the communist regime. Whenever local authorities would paint over the graffiti, the next day, it would be covered up once more in poems and paintings. Eventually, they just stopped trying and accepted it as modern art so long as they didn’t deface any other surrounding buildings. If you have a pen, or even some paint, feel free to leave your mark here along with the others!

Květinářství U Červeného Lva

Keep walking north along Lázeňská and turn right along Saská lane. The houses and building along this short route are some of the most beautiful examples of everyday baroque architecture. These aren’t palaces or noble estates, just mundane buildings built within the Baroque era. These lanes are almost empty, even though you’ll be able to hear the hustle and bustle of tourists just up ahead. Hidden down here, just steps from the famous Charles Bridge, is one of the oldest and most beautiful flower shops, Květinářství U Červeného Lva. Flowers are literally pouring out the door! Even if you can’t buy flowers for yourself, just looking at this shop in this quiet lane feels like discovering a secret garden!

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Lesser Town Bridge Tower

Keep walking along Saská lane until you reach a set of stairs on your left, leading you up to the end of the Charles Bridge, where you’ll find the Lesser Town Bridge Towers. This lofty structure with the wide arched gateway is flanked on either side by two enormous towers of differing heights. The non-uniformity of these towers always bothered me (I’m someone who likes symmetry), but I’ve found the oddity quite charming over time.

Judith’s Tower

The lower tower is called Judith’s Tower. It was built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century and once connected the old bridge from Mala Strana to Old Town before the Charles Bridge was built. In 1591 the bridge tower was renovated in the new Renaissance style and decorated with ornate gables, and the trendiest art form of the time: sgraffito. Sgraffito is a form of decoration made by scratching through a surface to reveal a lower layer of a contrasting colour, typically done in plaster or stucco.

Higher Tower

The second tower is aptly named the Higher Tower. It was built in the high Gothic style as a pair to the Charles Bridge’s Tower of Parler, located on the other side. At the peak of the arched gateway, you’ll see various symbols of Prague. There are the emblems with the imperial eagle, the Czech lion and the symbol of Upper Lusatia; below them are the emblems of the Old Town and the Lesser Town.

Míšeňská

Instead of heading straight through the main gates where the influx of crowds can be found, we’re going to enter around the northern side. While this gateway is lovely, the immediate area opposite the gate is packed with tourists and best avoided. Just north of the gates, walk up Dražického nám and turn right along Míšeňská Street. Míšeňská Street is one of the best-preserved Baroque streets in Prague.

Because it doesn’t boast huge attractions, you’ll still find it a quiet little place to explore. Before there were street numbers in Prague, houses were distinguished by a crest above the doorway. These could be family crests or correspond to the kind of businesses which operated inside. Stop by Míšeňská #3, which was once the ‘Queen of the Bees’ house marked by a flag of honeycomb and bees. Míšeňská #10 is marked with an old fresco of a lamb, and opposite this, #7 is marked with a wrought iron rooster.

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Café Club Míšeňská

Café Club Míšeňská is another famous espresso bar which boasts some of the best coffee in the city inside an old 18-century house. If you didn’t grab something to drink or a snack beforehand, this is another delightful spot to sit and enjoy a bit of quiet. The decor inside is a blend of restrained modernism and antique nostalgia.

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Shakespeare a synové

As you exit Míšeňská Street and hit U Lužického semináře, you’ll find the tiny little shop with the name ‘Shakespeare a synové’ above the entrance. This is one of the city’s most intriguing bookshops, which carries both new and used Czech, English, French & other foreign language books. There are some real rarities here, and while the books might be a bit pricey, it’s still worth poking your head inside to explore. The tiny shop is spread over two floors and has various couches and chairs for people to sit and peruse any books of interest before buying. It’s a great spot to warm up or cool down if you need a short rest from the walk.

Narrowest Street in Prague

Keep walking north along U Lužického semináře until you reach the Restaurant Čertovka. Just beside this restaurant is one of the strangest and most hidden spots in Mala Strana. Here you can find the narrowest street in Prague! From U Lužického semináře, this extremely narrow lane leads back to a restaurant garden. The path is so skinny that a traffic light had to be installed to ensure no two people went at the same time from either direction, in case they got stuck! You can easily walk down it yourself even if you’re not visiting the restaurant, just ensure you click the walk button and obey the signs.

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Vojan Park 

Across the street from the restaurant, along the west side of U Lužického semináře, you’ll find a long white wall which hides a valuable secret. After walking north along the wall for about a block and a half, you’ll come to a small archway which provides an entrance inside. The exterior wall is bland and usually covered in unappealing tags and graffiti. But as you make your way to the gate, you’ll be in awe of the greenery to be found inside. 

Vojan Park, the oldest park in Prague, was initially built-in 1300. In the 17th century, the Convent of Barefooted Carmelites was constructed beside the park, and their order took it upon themselves to care for the gardens and enhance their beauty. Especially in the summer when the cherry blossoms bloom, this park is absolutely magical. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the various peacocks which roam the grounds as they are a sight to behold!

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St. Joseph Church

Exit the park where you entered and continue along U Lužického semináře. Walk until you reach Letenská street, where you’ll turn left and walk along the road westwards until you reach St. Joseph Church. While the buildings along this stretch aren’t of particular note, you have a great opportunity to get some fantastic snaps of the old Prague trams that run up and down this street. St. Joseph Church is a narrow, little building piled up with some of the most exquisite Baroque ornamentations. While the interior is a bit lacklustre, the exterior is a real feast for the eyes.

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St. Thomas Church

Across the street from St. Joseph Church in St. Thomas Church. This church is the opposite of the one previous. The exterior is a bit of a jumble of everyday styles. But inside, you’ll be awed at fantastical ceiling frescos, elaborately carved wooden chapels and stunning multilayered altarpieces. The church was originally founded by the order of Augustinian Hermits by Wenceslas II in 1285. The church was decorated in high Gothic style by some of the most prominent Czech artists of the time and today is still one of the best examples of Czech art and architecture.

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Velikovský house

Down the street from St. Thomas Church is the Velikovský house, found at Malá Strana No. 518. The famous townhouse has stood on this spot for over 600 years in one form or another. It was rebuilt and renovated due to fires and changing architectural styles. Study the corner turret, decorated with sgraffito from sculptor Celestyn Kloucek which dates back to 1899. On the southern facade, facing the Malostranské náměstí is an old sundial from 1608. It was discovered hidden under a new layer of plaster during one of the renovations. Historians carefully uncovered it; today, it is a stunning example of how Czechs used to tell time. They used a unique method that counted the hours that had passed since sunset instead of the 24-hour clock we have today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Malostranské náměstí

Now, after a roundabout route, we find ourselves in the main square of Prague’s Malá Strana. St. Nicholas Church stands domineering over the square and separates it into two distinct spaces; the upper (western) and lower (eastern) squares. While the jolly food vendors and antique trams with charming church bells ringing in the distance might seem like an idyllic scene, this square hides a darker history. It was once the spot where the gallows and pillory were located throughout many different eras of Prague’s judicial history. Townspeople would gather here to view public executions and cruel medieval punishments. The only sign of such dark histories is the rather tacky “torture museum” signage plastered all over the ancient facades.

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The Lower Square

The lower square is where you’ll find the tram stop for Mala Strana, surrounded by pretty palace façades. This was originally where the nobility of Prague’s elite would live, close to the Palace without being inside its gates. Many of these buildings are now tourist trap restaurants, but luckily the high prices have meant they can maintain the original architecture and appearance of these historic estates.

The Upper Square

The upper part of the square is called ‘Vlašský place‘ as ‘Vlacks’ or Italians once lived solely in this area and would come into the square daily to sell their products and goods. In the upper square, we also find the soaring Plague Column commemorating the Czech people’s survival after the great plague of 1713. The column features sculptures of the Virgin Mary surrounded by Czech saints designed by sculptors Jan Oldřich Mayer and F. Geiger.

St. Nicholas Church

St. Nicholas Church stands high above Mala Strana with its three masterful copper-topped roofs. It is known across Europe as an absolute architectural marvel and one of the most exceptional examples of Prague Baroque. Where St. Vitus is an example of the most beautiful Gothic architecture, St. Nicholas provides a glimpse into opulence, which is genuine baroque.

It was built in 1704 by the father-son duo Christoph and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer. Saint Nicholas is known as the protector of children and the patron saint of sailors. Legend says he saved three girls from being forced into sex work by dropping sacks of gold coins into their window to pay for their dowry. Other stories tell of his power to calm the oceans and save lost soldiers at sea. Many of these stories are told throughout the paintings and sculptures inside, so it’s always good to know a little bit of context for the saint the church is named after.

Interior of the Church

Stepping inside the church, you’re immediately struck by the lavish decor and open space. The dome stretches 70 meters above the church, creating a grandiose light lantern that rushes inside. There are lush decorations everywhere your head turns. Pastel frescoes cover what appears to be every inch of the walls and ceilings. The most impressive of these paintings is the one on the dome depicting the Holy Trinity by Franz Palko. But there is a real balance between heavy ornamentation and light, creating a heavenly harmony. The massive dome is encircled with windows, as are either side naves. This allows natural light to pour into the centre of the church ensuring you never feel claustrophobic or weighed down.

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Mozart in Prague

One of the most impressive features of the church is the grand organ which was once played by none other than Mozart himself in 1787. The organ contains over 4,000 pipes and is an absolute marvel to hear. Be sure to check when the church holds concerts, as hearing the organ played in person is truly something otherworldly.

To get one of the most amazing views across the city, climb the 215 steps up the centre tower. You can see the Vltava River and the surrounding countryside past the city limits. During the communist era, this viewpoint was more than just a pretty sight. Spies frequently visited this spot to look down on the nearby American embassy. On your way up the tower, keep an eye out for the small cast iron urinals along the wall. These were installed to allow the spies to relieve themselves without a long journey to the ground floor.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Fragnerova Pharmacy

Just outside St. Nicholas church on the corner of Zámecká and Nerudova street, you’ll find one of the oldest pharmacies in Prague. The Fragner Pharmacy at the Black Eagle is easily identified by the giant black eagle on the front of the shop.

While the pharmacy now sells modern-day medicine, it also has various historical items on display inside the 18th-century interior. It’s a great way to explore what old pharmacies used to be like while also picking up any medicine you might need for yourself (for me, I always need some blister band-aids for my feet after long days of walking the entire city).

Nerudova Street

Turn down Nerudova Street which is itself a tour through the eras. Nerudova is named after the writer and poet Jan Neruda. Neruda spent his life writing stories all about the “Lesser Town” and the various real-life character turned fictional in his charming short stories. While most of the historic storefronts have turned into touristy restaurants or souvenir shops, looking closely above the entrances, you can still study the historical remnants of this incredible street. Above #12, now a Chinese restaurant, you’ll see an emblem of three fiddles marking what used to be an old violin makers shop. A few doors down at #16, we see an old apothecary shop marked with a golden chalice.

Gingerbread Museum

Along Nerudova, stop in at the Gingerbread Museum. While more of a shop than a museum, it does sell superbly decorated gingerbread. There are always some gorgeous treats to behold, both for display and purchase. A monthly window display usually features gingerbread versions of the city’s iconic architecture. It’s an amusing little shop which just makes me smile, so I had to include it. And fair enough, I do love myself some gingerbread!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Prague Chocolate Bistro

If you like a quick snack, head into the Prague Chocolate Bistro. Despite sounding like a tacky tourist trap, this little modernist cafe is known for serving up some of the most delicious chocolate treats. Their rich and slightly savoury hot chocolate is the perfect thing to not only fill you up with its rich flavour but also to keep you warm on a cold or rainy day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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As you continue walking along with Nerudova, stop by #26 to see if you can spot the golden sparrow house or the golden wagon wheel at #26. Across the street at #27 is the golden key house. The street can get really crowded, but I found that the denser areas usually comprise just one large group. Just wait for them to go by, and the street will open back in a few minutes.

Jan Neruda Dedication

Above the house, at #45, you’ll see a beautiful bronze plaque on the facade of the building with the image of Jan Neruda carved into the bronze. It documents the author’s life and the street dedicated to him.

AMI Marionettes

As Nerudova turns into Úvoz street, stop in at AMI Marionettes. Marionettes are a very popular souvenir to be found in Prague. For many years, puppetry was considered a low form of entertainment compared to theatre or opera. They were operated by less skilled artisans. Often instead of being performed in German (which in the 17th century was the official language in Prague), they used the native Czech language. While this might seem no big deal, speaking, Czech had been outlawed! Puppetry became somewhat of a nationalist pastime, sometimes only performed in secret. In the 18th and 19th centuries, as the Czech Republic began to rebel against using the German language, the marionette became a symbol of this rebellion.

AMI Marionettes is still one of the most trustworthy names in puppetry, and all their puppets are locally produced. You’ll see marionettes all over town in cheap souvenir shops, but these are often Chinese knockoffs. Even if you’re not interested in buying one for yourself, the craftsmanship used to make these marionettes is really impressive.

Baráčnická rychta

As we are nearing the end of the tour, if you’re feeling a bit peckish, head into Baráčnická rychta. This cozy little restaurant can be found just off the famous Nerudova street. It’s incredible how you can still find a real authentic place with great prices and delicious food just steps away from tourist traps and overpriced cafes. There is even a little outdoor garden to eat in on lovely summer days, but you can dine inside their traditional Czech interior throughout the year.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Prague Castle View

To make your way to one of the most incredible views of the city without the tourist hordes, head west across Vlašská until you reach the corner of Vyhlídka Václava Havla park. Meander down the garden pathway (as marked on the map below) towards the easternmost part. Not only do you have a view across the Vltava river, but you can also see the rooftops of Prague Castle off in the distance. Few other tourists were there when we visited, along with some locals walking their dogs. It was the perfect ending to a fantastic afternoon stroll.

Many people come to the Lesser Quarter solely to visit Prague Castle and miss out on the subtleties of Mala Strana. There are so many treasures to uncover! If you’re heading to Prague soon, let me know if you have any questions. And if you’ve travelled to Mala Strana before, let me know what your favourite sight was in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Free Self-Guided Walking Tour of Malá Strana, Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Admission and Access
3. House 20
4. Franz Kafka House
5. House 12
6. House 13
7. House 14
8. House 15
9. House 16
10. House 23
11. House 27
12. Medieval Armoury

History

In 1597, the marksmen who guarded the castle’s fortifications wanted a place to live nearby. They didn’t want to walk back to Lower Town every day after their shift was over, and being nearby would mean faster response to any attackers. The emperor permitted them to build their homes on the small piece of land now the Golden Lane. But there were 24 marksmen and a lack of space for large enough houses. The miniature houses were constructed in the mannerist style out of stone, mud and wood – all cheap materials which would have been abundant to these marksmen.

Eventually, the row became home to more than just marksmen. Both rich and poor people lived here, as their proximity to the castle made it the perfect location to best serve the monarchy. There were artists, clerks, footmen, and more living along this narrow road. An extensive renovation was done to the lane in the 1950s after WWII, and only 11 historic houses remain today. The houses on the street no longer house residents of Prague but contain souvenir shops and little exhibits which display what life was like in the lane over the last 500 years.

The street gets its name from the famous alchemist who once lived here during the reign of Rudolf II. This alchemist was obsessed with creating the philosopher’s stone, the elixir of youth and most of all, trying to turn cheap metals into gold! He was never successful himself, but stories of his attempts lived on. In the 20th century, an old doctor of philosophy spent his life savings collecting old books on magic and went about secret experiments in his house on Golden Lane.

One day, neighbours heard an explosion and came running. His house was on fire, and when firefighters finally could extinguish the blaze, they found the old man dead inside, clutching a large piece of gold in his hand. Perhaps he finally accomplished what all those alchemists before him were attempting to do, as no one could understand how else he would have come to own such a large, expensive piece of gold.

Admission and Access

Access to the Golden Lane can be gained only with a Prague Castle admission ticket. You can access the Golden Lane on either circuit A or B. It is open from November – March from 9am – 2pm and from April – October from 9am – 5pm.

House 20

The only house retained with a Renaissance appearance is house #20, with its original dark brown pieces of framing, which can be seen from the exterior.

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Franz Kafka House

Many famous people have lived here throughout the years. Be sure to stop by house #22, the blue house, which was once home to Czech-born, German-language novelist Franz Kafka. Although the interior of this house is one of the most disappointing since it’s now nothing more than a cheesy souvenir shop.

House 12

House #12 was owned by film historian and collector Josef Kazda. This was my favourite house on the lane. Inside are hundreds of posters from old Czech films and piles of film canisters littering the floor. Kazda saved many films which were supposed to be destroyed by the Nazis in WWII, and his house became a kind of warehouse to keep these pieces of history safe.

House 13

House #13 is the residence of the red artilleryman. It’s a recreation of the home of one of the many guards who protected the castle. Inside you can find his bed, original guard uniform, and their humble cottage kitchen.

House 14

House #14 once belonged to the psychic Madame de Thebes, who lived here in the 20th century. She predicted the downfall of the Third Reich and was eventually arrested and tortured to death by the Gestapo for her predictions, which, as we all know, finally came true. This house now hosts items favoured by fortune tellers, like tarot cards, skulls and books on astrology.

House 15

House #15 contains an exhibition dedicated to the goldsmith’s workshop. In addition to living in these houses, many craftsmen used them as studios. Inside this little house, you’ll find a small Renaissance desk, goldsmith tools, an outfit that such craftsmen would have worn during the period, and various other items of decor that such a man would have owned.

House 16

House #16 is a recreation of the kinds of tavern inns that would have served the Golden Lane and Prague Castle residents in the Renaissance period. A dimly lit bedroom, surrounded in rich animal furs and jugs of ale, surrounds the bedside.

House 23

House #23 is a goldsmith’s workshop. Displaying antique jewelry both on the exterior and interior, there is a myriad of tools of the goldsmith’s trade on display. A fur apron sits on the chair, as it was used to catch any of those precious flecks of fold the smith would be working with. One can only imagine the kinds of requests these goldsmiths would be making for the Kings and Queens of Bohemia and their court.

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House 27

House #27 contains an exhibition dedicated to herbalists. Herbalists were the doctors, pharmacists, dermatologists and makeup artists of the 15th century. They cured diseases, healed wounds and served both the rich and poor. Their materials consisted mostly of flowers, powders, seeds and spices. Inside you also have a modern-day beauty products shop selling all sorts of natural creams and tonics made in the Czech Republic from regional ingredients. I’d seen this brand elsewhere in the city, but buying it in the old home of the original herbalists felt extra special.

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Medieval Armoury

At the end of the lane, one of the houses houses a medieval armoury and textile displays. Visitors can even try shooting a crossbow in the makeshift range they’ve set up inside. Although this little street might seem inconsequential against the majesty of St. Vitus Cathedral or the Royal Residences, seeing how the everyday people who built the foundations of the city lived, is truly an eye-opening experience.

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Prague’s Golden Lane is a must for any traveller. From its vibrant and well-preserved medieval architecture to its historical significance and rich cultural heritage, the Golden Lane offers a unique and unforgettable experience. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture lover, or just looking for a fun and immersive day out, the top ten sights on this walking tour are sure to captivate and delight.

The post The Top Ten Things to See on a Walking Tour of Prague’s Golden Lane first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
3. Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn
   • Two Towers
   • Entry to Our Lady of Tyn
   • Interior of Our Lady of Tyn
4. Storch House, #16
5. At the Stone Table, #18
6. The Golden Unicorn
7. The Little Square
8. Restaurant White Horse
9. Old Town Hall
10. Prague's Astronomical Clock
11. The Minute House
12. Markets
13. Church of St. Nicholas
14. Prague Municipal Insurance Company
15. Kinský Palace
16. Stone Bell House
17. Centre of the Town Square
    • Jan Jesenius Statue
18. Prague Meridian

Access

The Old Town Square is located between Wenceslas Square and Charles Bridge You can easily reach the square by walking down from “Staroměstská” metro station. If you’re close by, I would always recommend walking if you can, since seeing things along the way is half the fun of visiting Prague. Since the city is so small, walking to your next destination is always an option instead of taking the trams or metro.

History

This the old town square was originally founded in the 12th century as the city’s primary marketplace. Traders from all over Prague and indeed, all over Europe, would travel here to trade goods in one of the most beautiful scenic town centre’s found anywhere. The square is surrounded on all sides by fantastical pastel stucco buildings, notably taller than most historic buildings found in other European cities.

The original Romanesque houses which were built around the square where flooded repeatedly and so the ground was raised 2-4 meters to prevent future flooding. This meant that the only remaining portions of those houses were the basements, the rest of the houses around the square are all from the Gothic, Baroque and Rococo period.

Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn

Start your walking tour of Old Town Square at the Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn. The most imposing building is, without a doubt, this twin-towered church standing guard at the outskirts of the square. The distinctive black Gothic spires loom over the Týn Courtyard and they can be seen all across Prague. The main facade is hidden from the central square by a row of pastel arcade houses which sit nestled under its shadow.

In the 11th century, a large Romanesque church once stood on this site. It was commissioned by the foreign merchants who sold their goods in the Týn Courtyard. The Týn Courtyard still stands today, and you can visit all different merchants and their shops who sell traditional Czech wares. Tyn Church was dubbed “Cathedral of aristocrats” since the merchants who funded the church’s construction were wealthy and wanted a church all of their own. They desired their new building to rival St. Vitus Cathedral on the other river bank inside Prague Castle. Although personally I don’t believe it does, they sure made a good attempt. Construction began as early as 1256 when High Gothic architecture was in its prime. The soaring vertical columns and towers were inspired by St. Vitus Cathedral built by Matthias of Arras.

Two Towers

The two towers which make Church of our Lady so iconic are about 80 meters tall, but they are not symmetrical. One, named “Adam”, is larger than the other, called “Eve”. Between the two towers, is a small, pitched roof. Inlaid on the roof is a golden statue of the “Virgin Mary.”. In one hand she is holding baby Jesus and with the other a sceptre. The child holds in his arms a sphere, symbolising holding the world in his hand. But this is not just any golden statue. When the Hussites gained control of Prague, King George – the Hussite King – had a giant statue of himself created and erected between the two towers. After the Thirty Years’ War between the Bohemians and the Holy Roman Emperor, when the Hussites were defeated, the old statue was melted down to make the new one of the Virgin Mary.

Entry to Our Lady of Tyn

To enter the church, you must head down a narrow pathway and enter through the small door on the northern side of the church. The hidden entrance means that the church is often almost empty since tourists tend to get their picture and go. It’s worth looking inside if you’re an art history buff or love ecclesiastical architecture.

The north portal’s arched doorway contains a 14th-century tympanum with an intricate depiction of the Crucifixion carved into it. It was carved by the workshop of Charles IV’s favourite architect, Peter Parler, who went on to finish St. Vitus Cathedral.

Interior of Our Lady of Tyn

While the exterior is gothic, the interior was renovated in the 17th century and is a Baroque gem. Golden frames, with richly drawn saints, adorn the columns. In the centre of the nave is the elegant altar surrounded by jewel toned painting by Karel Škréta. One of the most famous things to see inside is the tomb of the astronomer Tycho Brahe. He was a Danish astronomer, and court scientist for Rudolf II and his marble tombs portrays a cartoon effigy of himself. The dominating, gold organ inside is the oldest organ in Prague and dates all the way back to 1673.

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Storch House, #16

The Storch house, one of the most decorated houses on the square. #16, also named the “the Stone Virgin Mary” is painted with figurative paintings of St. Wecestless, the three Magi, all from the 19th century. Along with the paintings are some exquisitely ornate script.

At the Stone Table, #18

The pale peach house at #18, also named the house “At the Stone Table” was once a famous salon where writers would gather to share their stories and drink the night away. Famously Franz Kafka, Max Brod, Franz Werfel or Egon Erwin Kisch all used to frequent this house.

The Golden Unicorn

The pale blue house on the square, wonderfully named the Golden Unicorn, was once a Romanesque house since converted in 1496 Matěj Rejsek into a monumental tower-like early Gothic palace. The house is most notable for being the first bookstore open to the public in 1838.

The Little Square

Walking south of the Church, head towards the Old Town Hall. As you go, you’ll pass a small grouping of the most elegant houses which make up the “Little Square”. Since the square is a pedestrian only area of the city, you can stroll at your leisure, taking time to look up at all the multicoloured, pastel residences lining the route. Every architectural style can be found here. On the first floor of many of these building, you’ll find various cafes and restaurants. Many of the pubs bear names like ‘At the Stone Ram’, ‘At the Red Fox’ and ‘At the Blue Star’. Since there were no house numbers in the early 17th century, the residents installed signs or plaques with an identifiable character or animal on them to identify which house was theirs.

Restaurant White Horse

Although hugely touristy portions of Prague like this are rife with scams and ripoff restaurants, one of the only good ones on the square is the Restaurant White Horse. Go for the beef goulash and a tall pint of Czech beer to have a traditional luncheon. The prices might be a touch on the high side, but when in the old town square you’re paying for the atmosphere and the environment as well as the food.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Old Town Hall

Across from The Little Square, you can find the Old Town Hall. Although the town hall is most famous for its astronomical clock, its historic importance and role in the development of the city is nothing to scoff at.

The current town hall is the amalgamation of several old houses which were connected over the years to form one large administration building. In 1338 the councillors bought a large royal house from the family Volflin. In 1458 a house only known as “Mike’s house” was added to the west side. The Gothic “Cock” house was bought in 1835. The “Cock House” still contains a preserved Romanesque hall dating from the beginning of the 13th century.

Prague’s Astronomical Clock

The Astronomical Clock (or Prague Orloj) is one of Prague’s BIGGEST attractions, or at least that’s what the hoards of people crowding around it would make you believe. The clock is housed on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall and has been there, in part, since 1410. Legend says that if something bad were to befall the clock, Prague itself would fall. Although it is just a superstitious rumour, it’s been enough to keep the clock well protected and preserved after all these years.

There are three main parts to the clock. The first is the Dial, which represents the Sun and Moonand their position in the sky. The next is the Sculptures of the Apostles who, upon the hour, perform a little show for the onlookers. They spin around the clock, chased by a statue of death. This is what everyone is waiting to see but let me tell you, this little show isn’t worth fighting your way through the mob. Once the show is over, the crowds disappear, and you get a much better view of the clock itself. The final part is the Calendar Dial. It is surrounded by different medallions representing the various months of the year and their corresponding astrological signs.

The Minute House

The “Minute House” was purchased in 1896. It was a Gothic house from the 15th century, and the exterior is decorated with series of sgraffito designs representing classical and biblical themes. Sgraffito is a form of decoration made by scratching through a surface to reveal a lower layer of a contrasting colour (in this case black and white) typically done in plaster or stucco on walls. The Gothic stone portal is one of the last original aspects of the town hall standing today and serves as the main entrance.

Markets

Throughout the year, many different street vendors set up shop here in the square. They serve a multitude of traditional Czech dishes and are a perfect place to grab a bite to eat. At Christmas time, Prague’s Christmas Markets is erected in the square, drawing hundreds and thousands of people who wander the medieval inspired stalls. In the centre of the square, a large Christmas tree is raised, and bands play throughout the day.

Church of St. Nicholas

The Church of Saint Nicholas sits behind the Town Hall. It’s large green topped towers sit atop the pristine white, Baroque church facade. The church was built in 1732, and it’s interior hosts a lovely array of baroque frescos and sculptures.

Prague Municipal Insurance Company

The custard cream yellow, neo-baroque building facing on the centre of the square is an administrative building of Prague municipal insurance company was built in 1901. Carved onto the facade are various sculptural decorations depicting fire and water, two of the main sources of insurance claims both now and in the 19th century.

Kinský Palace

One of my favourite buildings on the square is the Kinský Palace. It’s pink decorations, and white stucco exterior makes it looks like a frilly, Rococo birthday cake. The palace was originally built for the Golz family in 1755. Along the facade are statues by Ignaz Franz Platzer which represent multiple classical elements.

In 2006, the building was renovated to house the new Czech National Galler Museum. The famous author Franz Kafka was born in Prague and his family history is found throughout the city. His father, Hermann Kafka, was a haberdasher and his first store was located right here on the first floor of the palace.

Stone Bell House

Beside the Kinský Palace, you can find the Stone Bell House. The house is one of the oldest on the square and is one of the only remaining which preserves its original gothic architecture. The buildings now play hosts to a rotating mix of contemporary art exhibits and musical events.

Centre of the Town Square

In the centre of the square is an enormous monument of the religious reformer, Jan Hus. The statue was created to mark the 500th anniversary of his death. Jan Hus was a martyr and burnt at the stake for his beliefs which started the Hussite Wars. A turning point in Czech history.

Jan Jesenius Statue

Across from the Town Hall are the ‘Memorials to the Martyrs’ which include Jan Jesenius and Maxmilián Hošťálek who were beheaded right here during the “Battle of White Mountain”. 27 crosses mark the pavement in their honour. Legend has it that every year, on the date of their execution (June 21st), the dead noblemen return as ghosts and visit the living.

But more than just gruesome things happened here. Since 1311, the square was the site of coronation parades. Hundreds of villagers would come here to celebrate their new leaders, dressed in all their finery, throwing flowers and dancing in the streets.

Prague Meridian

Set amongst the cobblestones on the square, is a rectangular plaque which marks the place, where the former “Marian column” used to stand. The Marian column was once a large baroque design made of sandstone and was created to give thanks for the defence of Prague from the raids of the Swedish troops in 1648. But it also served a functional purpose. The shadow of the column would show villagers high noon. Now a plaque marks the spot and written in both Czech and Latin is says, ” MERIDIAN ACCORDING TO WHICH PRAGUE TIME WHAD BEEN REGULATED IN THE PAST / MERIDIANUS QUO OLIM TEMPUS PRAGENSE DIRIGEBATUR.”

You’re bound to discover something beautiful, something new, something old or something incredible here in Old Town Square. Despite the crowds, it definitely worth a visit. Find a peaceful spot, grab a coffee and saunter to your heart’s content.

The post Free Guide to Prague’s Fairytale Old Town Square first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.