The Slavs of Bohemia were slow to accept Christianity. They kept their Pagan spirituality strong for years despite the rest of Europe converting. These new Christians were repelled by anything mystical. Anyone wanting to preserve these practices moved to Bohemia, creating this powerful force amassed inside an otherwise small town. It is perhaps this connection to their nature-based spiritual roots, which strengthens Prague’s enchanting atmosphere. But what really ignited a fire for the mystical arts inside the walls of Prague was the Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II in the 16th century. He would forever change the future of Prague and alter the alchemy of the city itself.

When To Do the Tour?

This guided tour takes you across the entire city of Prague to all the different alchemical hot spots and historical markers. Get immersed in this city’s mystical nature and find out all the various myths and legends that hide behind closed doors.

The best time to start this tour is in the midafternoon. This gives you enough time to visit the museums and enter into Prague Castle. But allows for the remainder of the tour to take place at night when darkness creeps over the rooftops. Changing the appearance of the city, which is perfect for exploring these enchanting places. 

If you’d rather skip the spots in Mala Strana and stick to the city’s eastern side, you can quickly start the tour on the Charles Bridge. The second portion of the tour is located in one of the more touristy areas, so leaving it until later in the day always means fewer tourists.

History of Alchemy in Prague

In 1576, Emperor Rudolf II of Habsburg moved his court to the city of Prague. But why Prague? Well, Rudolf was drawn to the city’s mysterious past and mystical origins. He was a man obsessed with magic. Rudolf was a lover of arts, astronomers and alchemists. And he was obsessed with the idea of being the man who would discover the Philosopher’s Stone. With Rudolf’s obsession with alchemy, he invited some of Europe’s best magicians, astronomers, and alchemists to help him. These men of science and magic would not only change the course of Prague’s history but the course of the world itself, in their amazing discoveries.

Many people blame this obsession of his with the downfall of his empire. But modern historians have actually applauded these efforts to create an artistic and scientific Renaissance in Bohemia under his rule. But despite any hindsight analysis, Rudolf’s empire would crumble beneath him. He was thrown out of Power by his brother in 1611 and died soon after.

Emperor Rudolf II

Emperor Rudolf II was a huge patron of the alchemists, albeit perhaps not for the right reasons. He was obsessed with reading books on magic and the occult. He thought alchemy was more than just a science, but something that could turn fantasy into a reality. Rudolf became obsessed with the idea of discovering the Philosopher’s Stone. Rudolf had both personal and financial reasons for wanted to discover the stone. His empire was going bust, and he needed money quickly. And rather than acquire it by keen rule, he tried to acquire it by divination. Rudolf built his own laboratory on Prague hill. He performed his own experiments and invited astronomers, alchemists and even occultists to help him in his search for the beyond. This reputation soon earned him the nickname of the “Mad Emperor” or “Mad Alchemist.”

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What is Alchemy?

Alchemy originated in Egypt and Arabia and moved throughout the continent, finally landing in central Europe. The word is derived from the Arabian phrase “al-kimia,” which they coined for their elixirs. “Kimia” referred to the Nile delta soil, where many of their beneficial compounds would be obtained. Alchemy was one of the original branches of natural philosophy. Alchemists attempted to transform matter through purification, maturation, and perfecting certain materials. 

People in medieval times, however, viewed alchemy as a magical and mystical discipline. But, in reality, many alchemists were just modern-day scientists. They used techniques like distillation, and sublimation and would even record their experiences with hefty documentation. In fact, the word ‘alchemy’ is where we get the word ‘chemistry.’ Chemistry is the same kind of practice but using more advanced and systematic techniques.

Philosopher’s Stone

The earliest alchemists were responsible for creating fundamental discoveries such as phosphorous, zinc, metallic arsenic and even the big moneymaker – porcelain! But the alchemist had one main goal, to discover the Stone of Knowledge (better known as the Philosophers’ Stone.) This powerful alchemical substance was thought to provide eternal youth and could transform any metal into gold. But since science was such a widely misunderstood practice, many people thought alchemists were nothing more than charlatans. And truthfully, many of them were, but there was also an equal number of incredible discoveries made by men like Tycho Brahe, Johannes Kepler, and Isaac Newton.

Elias Ashmole

You might think the Philosopher’s Stone is just a creation from the Harry Potter novels, but its history goes back much further than that. Elias Ashmole and the anonymous author of Gloria Mundi (written in 1620) claim that its history goes back to Adam in the Garden of Eden. There, he acquired the knowledge of the Philosopher’s stone knowledge directly from God himself. It is mentioned throughout history by Plato, greek philosophers, Byzantine and Muslim alchemists, and the Arab emperor. 

Paracelsus

In the 16th and 17th century a symbol was even devised by the alchemists trying to discover the secret of the Philosopher’s Stone. 16th-century Swiss alchemist Paracelsus believed in the existence of alkahest, which he thought to be an undiscovered element. He believed alkahest was what all the other elements (earth, fire, water, air) were derived from. Paracelsus believed that it was this element, in fact, the was the Philosopher’s stone. He invented the ‘Squared Circle,’ which illustrated the four components’ interplay as one element.

The Alchemy Trail

The Great Work (or Magnum opus) was the alchemical term for the process of working with “prima materia” to create the Philosopher’s Stone. It has been used to describe personal and spiritual transmutation in the Hermetic tradition. The original opus had four stages, but the alchemy trail was better known to have seven steps.

Calcination or blackening

The first step was calcination or blackening. This happens when the prima materia is burned to ashes. In alchemy, when you change a physical material, you are not only changing the raw substance but also changing your own psychology. This stage is meant to represent the destruction of your inner self. In this blackening, you are left with no ego and can step into a new spirituality level.

Dissolution & Seperation

The next step is dissolution, where the ashes are turned into a fluid. Being fluid is akin to meditation, as it allows us to move in different directions. The third step is separation. By separating the elements, we can further study them and understand their true nature. This allows us to understand our true feelings once we can see the root of thought.

Conjunction

The fourth step is Conjunction, where other materials are added to the raw elements. This is seen as the marriage of man and woman, moon and sun, which creates the perfect spiritual balance. The fifth step is fermentation. After marriage, traditionally, we have a pregnancy, represented here by fermentation.  Distillation is the sixth step. This is achieved by boiling the elixir to make the mixture purer. Just as a newborn baby is the purest form of humanity not yet touched by evil or sin. The final stage is coagulation, where the new creation is formulated in a physical state. This is the extended version of our better self, and maturity has been achieved. Through all these steps, we have been reborn through this alchemical process.

Museum of Alchemists and Magicians

To start your tour magic and alchemy tour of Prague, I would recommend visiting the Museum of Alchemists and Magicians. Usually, these walking tours don’t include anything indoors. You can definitely skip this if you’re looking to avoid spending extra money or are short on time. But I think this quirky and fantastical museum is an excellent introduction to everything alchemical. It provides a beautiful visual window into Prague’s mysterious past.

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Sir Edward Kelley

The museum is relatively small, located on two levels inside what used to be Edward Kelley‘s old alchemy lab. Sir Edward Kelley was an English Renaissance alchemist, occultist and self-declared spirit medium. Kelley professed that he could summon spirits and even speak to angels. But perhaps the most exciting claim of his was that he possessed a red chemical that could turn base metals into gold. Upon hearing this, Emperor Rudolf II snatched him right up for his Royal Court and moved him to Prague. He gave Kelley large sums of money, land and even had him knighted. But by 1956, when Kelley hadn’t produced any of his promises to the Emperor, Rudolf had him imprisoned, where he died only a few years later.

Interior of the Museum

Inside the museum, you’ll find replicas of alchemical artifacts and dramatic scenes featuring statues of Prague’s alchemists themselves. There they stand, in-situ, reenacting historical scenes of their excellent work in the field of alchemy. This is a fantastical museum leans on legends as well as the facts. Just as the alchemists themselves were showmen, so too are these exhibits.

On the second floor of the building, you’ll climb stairs called the “spiral of life.” This staircase was built by Kelley in the 16th century as his “stairway to heaven” where he would sit and contact the angels. Stacks and stacks of grimoires line the walls. You’ll see how alchemist filled their laboratories with furnaces, retorts, bellows, animal skeletons and more!

Hours & Admission

Adults: 220,- Kč ($10 USD), Students: 160,- Kč ($7 USD), Child and seniors: 90,- Kč ($4 USD). Open Mon – Sun 10:00 – 20:00

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Alchemical Pub

After touring the museum, stop at Alchemical Pub, Kellyxir, to set the walking tour’s mood. This over-the-top cocktail bar is themed to look like an unbelievable alchemy lab inspired by Edward Kelley’s works. The building itself is a sight to behold. The ceiling dates back over 420 years. Bartenders hands out drinks served in tall glass beakers covered with dry ice. The smoke fills the room and creates a moody and mysterious atmosphere.

You can partake in a game that lets fate decide on your drink of choice. ‘Choose your Fate‘ is a game where you pick one of twelve tarot cards, and you will get a drink inspired by your chosen tarot card. This is a great way to get a pleasant surprise and let the bar lead you on your magical journey!

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Nerudova Street

On your way towards Prague castle, take a walk along Nerudova Street. If you look above the doorways, you’ll see that many houses have carved reliefs or symbols placed above their entrance. This is because, before 1770, there were no house numbers used in Prague. Instead, the way in which you would find where you were supposed to be going was to look for the house symbol. This started simply with tradespeople, a blacksmith for example would have a hammer and tongs, whereas the violin maker would have the image of a violin above their shop. But some of the symbols have a deeper meaning, with alchemical significance. There are still 264 buildings in Prague with symbols marking their location (although modern-day numbers have also been installed)

At the Two Suns

The first house we’ll stop by is the house At the Two Suns. This buttercream baroque facade is a new addition to this renaissance built house. Famously, this was were writer J. Neruda lived, for whom the street is named after. A large memorial tablet dominates the front of the building to commemorate his lifes work.

But for our purposes, take a look at the two golden suns which are to be found in a cartouche above the doorway. Each of the suns bears the image of a human face within them, but they don’t look too happy about it. Their eyes are looking in opposite directions, almost as if they are keeping guard. In tiny gold writing are the initials “IHS,” which sit above the image of a heart on fire. These initials represent the first three letters of the Greek name of Jesus, iota-eta-sigma, or ΙΗΣ. But curiously, the shape of the “H” looks like it is also forming a triangle. The triangle is the symbol in alchemy for fire, and the suns represent the symbol of gold. So perhaps the house is telling us this is the place where fire meets gold.

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At the Red Lion

This baroque facade dates back to 1726, but the building itself is much older. The house At the Red Lion portrays a fierce lion with a golden chalice clenched in its paw. The house sign dates back to 1608. The chalice in the lion’s paw is thought to represent the elixir of life or the Philosopher’s stone. The red hue painted onto the lion also hugely significant in alchemy. Red refers to “rubedo,” which means “redness.” Rubedo is the fourth or final stage in the magnum opus, which is the recipe for the Philosopher’s stone recipe. The chalice is also thought to represent the alchemical pot in which all the ingredients are mixture to form the elixir of life.

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At the Golden Wheel

At #28 we find the house At the Golden Wheel. The building is an original Renaissance house with a baroque facade but the signage above the door is from 1634! The golden wheel represents the full cycle of the magnum opus, of turning base metals into gold. The wheel also represents the year’s life cycle, just as the earth rotates, so does the golden wheel. In alchemy, the positioning of the cosmos is of the utmost importance, perhaps suggesting that the achievement of the elixir of life is only obtainable at certain times of the year.

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At the Golden Key

Across from the Golden Wheel, we also find the house At the Golden Key. The house dates back to the Renaissance but the cartouche above the doors is from 1844. The key symbolizes the fact that without the “right knowledge” the clues to unlocking the secrets to the Philosopher’s stone will be locked forever.

At the Golden Eagle

The renaissance house At the Golden Eagle once belonged to the Astralis family. In alchemy, eagles represent renewal or rebirth. In many different parts of the world, eagles were released at a ruler’s funeral to symbolize their soul’s departure to the gods above. One of the tenets of alchemy was the transmutation of base metals or liquids. To transform these materials into purer versions of themselves, you needed to destroy them for them to be reborn better. 

At the Red Lamb

The House At the Red Lamb is a neo-barque building built n 1891. The power pink facade is being held up but the bulk stone archway. Above the door is a stone symbol of a lamb, painted in red. Once more the red lamb here calls back to the Magnum Opus stage of rubedo when the raw materials are transmitted. Red can also symbolize the red powder, which Edward Kelley was so famous for using. Kelley claimed this red powder was the secret tincture to turn base metals into gold.

At the Golden Cup

Now a souvenir shop the house At the Golden Cup was once a renaissance goldsmiths’ workshop dating back to 1660. Gold was the end result of the magnum opus and although most goldsmith didn’t magically create gold, during the middle ages, any goldsmith was a suspected alchemist, especially the successful ones. The chalice represented in the doorway not only refers to the elixir of life but also the Holy Grail. Many people think that the Philospher stone is in fact the Holy Grail itself. From here, head up Zámecká street and up the Zámecké schody pathway towards Prague castle.

Golden Lane

Golden Lane is a street located inside Prague castle. You need a ticket to explore this historic area of town during the day, but after 4 pm, the castle complex exterior is open to the public. The buildings themselves in Golden Lane are closed, but you can still wander the streets and admire the facades. On either side of the narrow road are various colourful houses. This area wasn’t just for anyone; here, Rudolf II housed his most prized possession, which was, in fact, people. 

Despite much controversy, the street gets its name from a famous goldsmith who once lived along the lane. But legend has it that an alchemist did live on Golden Lane. In the 20th century, an old doctor of philosophy spent his life savings, collecting old books on magic and went about secret experiments in the same house on Golden Lane. One day, neighbours heard an explosion and came running. His home was on fire, and when firefighters finally extinguished the blaze, they found the old man dead inside, clutching a large piece of gold in his hand. Perhaps he finally accomplished what all those alchemists before him attempted. As the philosopher had spent his life savings on this home, no one could understand how else he would have come to possess such a large piece of gold…

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Mihulka Tower

While inside the castle, take a walk and see if you can spot the circular tower’s round red roof to the north of the Cathedral of St. Vitus. This is the Mihulka Tower or the first Powder Tower. The name comes from the fact that this tower was once an old storehouse for the city’s guard and their gunpowder. Mihulka Tower was where Edward Kelley worked on experiments for the Emperor. This laboratory was much closer to the Emperor’s residence, and therefore he could better study the alchemist’s progress. It was here that Kelley was to work on the discovery of the Philosopher’s Stone. After months and months, and no results, Rudolf had Kelley arrest and imprisoned in Krivoklat Castle and eventually in Golden Lane’s White Tower prison.

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Tycho Brahe’s House

Tycho Brahe was a Danish nobleman, astronomer, and writer but made most famous for his astronomical observations. His work with Johannes Kepler on the laws of planetary motion would forever change the way astronomers saw the universe. Prague wasn’t just a hub for mystics. Real scientists worked here as well. Tycho Brahe lived in Prague at N° 1 Nový Svět. This road was one of the most famous streets for alchemists. So many of them lived on this narrow lane, it was almost like a defacto fraternity. Brahe had been exiled by the King of Denmark after the two had a fevered disagreement.

Seeing an opportunity to invite a real scientific celebrity to town, Rudolf II jumped at the chance to meet Brahe! Brahe went on to become the official imperial astronomer and Rudolf built him an observatory at Benátky nad Jizerou but he also worked out of the royal observatory inside the Royal Summer Palace of Queen Anne. 

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Erasmus Habermehl

What initially drew Brahe to Prague was the invention of the sextant by Erasmus Habermehl housed in a lab in Prague in 1600. Brahe was obsessed with precision and these sextants allowed him to measure the angular distance between objects to the precision of 2 minutes of arc. Brahe was a well-known member of the royal court, perhaps too well known for his own good. One of the things which Brahe is most famous for is how he died. His death caused a massive uproar in the city. When dining at a large banquet, it was rumoured that he was poisoned, as the otherwise healthy astronomer died only 14 days after the public festivities. 

Many townspeople and noblemen thought he had been poisoned, possibly by his good friend Kepler himself! Hundreds of years later, when his body was exhumed and analyzed, they discovered he had died of nothing more than a kidney inflection. But hundreds of years ago, the rumour went wild and poor Kepler suffered at the hands of bad press.

Brahe’s Funeral

A huge funeral was arranged for Brahe, including a procession down the streets of Prague towards the Týn Church along the ‘Royal Way’. The procession included armed guards, banners flying high with his coat of arms emblazoned on them and a velvet-covered casket. Brahe was buried in Tyn church under the tombstone, which read, “Neither power nor wealth, only Art and Science will endure.” The old tombstone had to be replaced with a minimal black slab of stone with gold lettering. It can still be found on the church floor near the altar. If you’re interested in staying inside the house, his studio room has been transformed into a modern Airbnb rental!

Statue of Brahe and Kepler

Right near the tram stop, Pohořelec is a statue of the two great astronomers . Both men once lived in a house on this very spot. The old house has since been destroyed, but this statue was made to mark the site. Take a close look at Brahe’s nose. Notice anything peculiar? If it looks strange, this is because Brahe himself wore a fake nose. Brahe lost his nose in 1566 in a duel with his cousin. He fashioned himself a prosthetic nose made of brass, which he would glue on every day.

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Petrin Hill

From the highest point in town, Petrin Hill, you can look down at the city’s layout. King Charles was one of the first of Prague’s rulers obsessed with the mystical arts. So much so that the city was planned out using the advice from alchemists, astrologers and numerologists. These men provided the king with their predictions. They identified the converging ley-lines upon which the city should be built. A ley-line refers to straight alignments drawn between various historic structures and prominent landmarks.

Some people believe that such ley lines demarcate “earth energies.” These divinations decided where the greatest points of power were in the city. Upon these sites, places like Prague Castle, the old town square and the King’s residence were built. Take the funicular down from Petrin Hill station down to the Újezd station. From here, make your way to the Charles Bridge to reach the eastern part of town.

The Charles Bridge 

The original Charles Bridge, built in 1357, was a stone bridge. Its location was precisely designed by the royal astrologers to ensure that the bridge was laid on exactly July 9th at 5:31 in the morning. If you write out these numbers in the sequence, they go 1-3-5-7-9-7-5-3-1, which is a palindrome. A palindrome is a word, number, phrase which reads the same backward as forward. For numerologists and alchemists, these kinds of numbers held great power. This date was almost significant to the astrologers as the sun was in the zodiac sign of Leo. Leo, or the lion, is the heraldic symbol for Bohemia, which was thought to be advantageous to the celestial seers.

Johannes Kepler House

Johannes Kepler once lived right near the Charles Bridge at #4 Karlova street. What is now a street hounded with tourists was once the refuge of this famous stargazer. Kepler came to Prague under the tutelage of Tycho Brahe, who also was set up in Prague. Kepler had heard of the Emperor’s love of the sky and anything mystical and would serve as one of the royal horoscopes seers. Just as some people do today, the Emperor employed their advice with the utmost diligence. Kepler would go on to reveal the evolutions of the planets in their ellipse formation. Which was a departure from the previous research done on the planets, which assumed them moved in a circle around the sun. Although Kepler is most famous for this discovery, at the time, people relied on his for his astrological readings more than his scientific research.

Albrecht Wallenstein

Albrecht Wallenstein, the Bohemian general, also employed Kepler as his personal horoscope writer. Kepler wrote in his book Harmonics Mundi, “The soul of the newly born baby is marked for life by the pattern of the stars at the moment it comes into the world, unconsciously remembers it, and remains sensitive to the return of configurations of a similar kind.” So despite being a man of science, he firmly also believed in the significance of the stars.

Kepler was so talented with his astrological predictions that he is rumoured to have predicted Wallenstein’s death, down to the very month it happened. Kepler predicted that the great general would be assassinated in 1634. On February 25th, 1634, Wallenstein was attacked in his house and subsequently killed. But many people wonder if this was a self-fulfilling prophecy. Would the general have fought back if he hadn’t thought that this was his impending death? We shall ever know.

Klementinum

The Klementinum is a large complex of buildings with an enormous baroque library and observation tower beside the Charles Bridge. Initially, the building was a Jesuit college built in the 16th century. But in the 17th and 18th centuries, with the dissolution of the Jesuit Monasteries, the building was used by the court astronomers. Inside the library are some of the historic celestial globes which the court astronomers used. The Meridian Hall is still an active meteorological station. Originally it was used to monitor the planets’ position in the sky and identified 12-noon. A bell would be rung from the Klementinum to alert the public to the fact that it was now midday.

Rabbi Loew’s Tomb & his Golem

In Prague’s Jewish cemetery, you can find the headstone of the famous Rabbi Judah Loew. But since the cemetery is only accessible with a ticket, we are instead going to wander the Jewish quarter’s streets and end up at the Old-New Synagogue. Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel was a scholar of Judaism and served as rabbi of Moravia and Prague during the 16th century. He was a fierce protector of the Jewish faith and its people. His name, in fact, comes from the Hebrew word for lion, the most fearsome protector. Legend has it that his defence of Prague’s Jewish people went much deeper than just his teachings. The story goes that he worked with the alchemists of Prague to create a legendary golem. 

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Golem of Prague

In Jewish folklore, a golem is a magical creature created from clay or mud by a powerful ritual. In 1389, over 3,000 Jewish people living in Prague were murdered by Catholics in a devastating event. Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel feared for his people after these attacks and decided he needed to do something drastic to protect them. He went to the banks of the Vltava River to collect some mud. With this natural material in hand, he brought it back to the alchemy lab to perform the secret Hebrew incantations. This mystical combination of natural materials and magical practices was almost the definition of alchemy in the 16th century. Rabbi Loew implored the golem to defend the Prague ghetto from antisemitic attacks. The golem was placed inside the old synagogue’s attic, and it remained there in silence until his time of need. 

Hundreds of years later, during WWII, a nazi agent came to the synagogue with plans to destroy it. The main entrance was blocked, so he entered by the exterior stairs on the building’s facade, which led right into the attic. It was there he encountered the golem. The great golem rose from his slumber and quickly took care of the intruder. Today, there is a set of iron stairs on the exterior, the same ones which the nazi used to enter the synagogue. The last few rungs have been removed to prevent anyone from entering the golem’s resting place, in case they awaken him once more.

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Speculum Alchemiae

Deep underground, just off the main streets of Prague’s old town, in the Jewish quarter, is a secret laboratory called the ‘Speculum Alchemiae.’ This underground lab was walled up for hundreds of years, discovered only in 2002. That year, a flood forced the owners to dig down into the basement where they found the remnant of the old laboratory. Upon making this discovery the owners brought historians into the home who degreed the house to be the oldest in Prague. 

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But why were these alchemists hidden underground when Rudolf II seemed more than happy to officially employ many other alchemists? Perhaps because these were not “officially” sanctioned and unlike the more scientific leaning alchemists of his court, these men dove in the dark arts. In the buried workshop, they discovered many different pieces of ancient equipment and some potions still on the shelves.

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Hidden Tunnels

Most curious was the series of underground tunnels that connected this building to the Old Town Hall, the royal barracks, Tyn Church and Prague Castle. This meant that whoever was working down here had direct access to the king and his court. It is doubtful this was unknown to the royal guards, so clearly something was going on down here the king was involved in but wanted to keep hidden from the general public. You can still enter the Speculum Alchemiae by purchasing a ticket to the museum tour. 

The underground laboratory consists of a drying room, where plants would have been treated for use in elixirs. Then there is the instrument room where the equipment was stored for use in distillation and transmutation. And finally, the glass oven, where alchemists would have blown their own glass instruments like beakers and vials. Since this was a secret lab, they perhaps needed to produce all their own materials down here so as not to cause suspicion.

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The Elixir of Youth

One of the discoveries made down here was a large green concoction containing “the elixir of youth.” The elixir of youth, also known as the elixir of immortality and sometimes equated with the philosopher’s stone, is a potion that supposedly granted the drinker eternal life and/or eternal youth. Modern analysis of the liquid discovered that in addition to many herbs, opium was added, which would have no doubt caused the drinker to feel a myriad of “magical” sensations. Perhaps even giving them a sense of feeling more lively and youthful. Today, if you visit the museum, you can try one of their historic “elixirs”, albeit the hallucinogenic properties have been removed for obvious reasons. 

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House by the Black Sun

At #8 Celetná Street, you will find a large early gothic house with a beautiful baroque facade. The wooden doorways are surrounded in a sturdy stone arch. Above the archway is the relief, which gives the place its name, “The ‘Black Sun.” As a symbol, the Black Sun would be coopted by Prague’s nazis hundreds of years later. But, initially, when it was carved here, the sign had a very different meaning. In the early medieval period, the ‘black sun’ referred to the first stage of the alchemy trail, called the “blackening.”

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House At the Stone Lamb or Unicorn

Along Staroměstské nám street, stop at #551 where you’ll find the house At the Stone Lamb. This house is located on what was once the ‘Royal Way.’ The Royal Way was the pathway that Czech kings would walk or ride along during their coronation. The route starts at the Republic Square and passes many of Prague’s most impressive sights, ending at Prague Castle. Many prospective alchemists came to the city of Prague, in the hopes of meeting the Emperor. They would often stay in this house, previously a hotel, as its proximity to the royal way was thought to revere the Emperor.

The house which contained the hotel went by two names, House At the Stone Lamb or House At the Stone Unicorn. Both titles came from the relief carved on the building’s front located between the first and second floors. The carving indeed looks like a lamb, but the single horn on its head would denote a unicorn. No one seemed to have been able to agree on one answer, so it is known interchangeably. 

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The Sun and Moon

While the building to the left of the House At the Stone Lamb is seemingly much more visually appealing, take a closer look at the capitals on either side of the imposing stone entrance. In the tiniest of details are carved is a series of mystical symbols with alchemical interpretations. On the capitals are images of the sun and crescent moon with human faces superimposed inside them. Above the faces are sweet carvings of fruits and flowers with oak leaves intertwining around them. The crescent moon was a common alchemy symbol for the metal silver. The sun, on the other hand, was the symbol of gold and spiritual perfection.

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The Astronomical Clock

The Astronomical Clock is perhaps Prague’s most famous attraction. It garners thousands of viewers a day in the peak of the tourist season. The clock is housed on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall and has been there, in part, since 1410. Legend says that if something terrible were to befall the clock, Prague itself would fall. Although it is just a superstitious rumour, it’s been enough to keep the clock well protected and preserved after all these years.

For our purposes, the most crucial part of the Astrological clock is the dial. The dial has images of the Sun and Moon on each hand. As they move, they imitate the position of the sun and moon in the sky. This replicates an astrolabe’s mechanisms, a device used in medieval astronomy and a primitive planetarium that displays the universe’s current state.

Calendar

The outer dial of the clock is a giant calendar. It is surrounded by different medallions representing the various months of the year and their corresponding astrological signs. The clock could then be used by astronomers and astrologers to predict horoscopes and the universe’s fate. The clock’s design was so revolutionary and perhaps secretive that the engineer Master Hanuš was blinded after its construction to ensure no replica could ever be produced. 

The House of the Two Golden Bears

The House of the Two Golden Bears on Kožná Street dates back to 1403. The wonderfully detailed stone portal was designed by court architect Bonifaz Wohlmut in the 16th century. The two bears, one light smaller than the other, are said to represent the Great Bear (Ursa Major) and Little Bear (Ursa Minor) constellations. Beside each of the bears is a knight that kneels beside them, holding a branch in their hands.

The man on the left is slightly larger than the man on the left. These two figures represent old age and youth. The branch the older man is holding is beginning to dry out while the branch in the younger man’s hand was once painted with green paint to show off its new growth. You can read this as an interpretation of the cycle of life. But there is another reading of this house sign, which symbolized the alchemist’s creation of the elixir of life. Perhaps the young man isn’t ageing at all, but the old man is becoming young again after drinking the elixir of life!

Prague Meridian

Today, this house is filled with bricked up archways and walled up rooms. Where did they once lead? And what is hidden behind them? No one knows… It was a commonly known rumour that there were underground passageways all over Prague. But what dark accesses were so evil they needed to be locked away, behind brick walls? In 1930, a journalist ventured down into one of the blocked tunnels here in the House of the Black Bears. The poor journalist didn’t reappear for over a week. He had gotten lost in the labyrinth below. When he finally resurfaced, he wouldn’t speak of what he saw, but his dark hair had turned bright white from fright. The house is located right near the Prague Meridian, which was used to determine twelve noon. Any spot near these energetic astrological positions is thought to be a place where great power was practiced.

Faust House

Despite the name, the Faust House, this house once belonged to naturalist and avid alchemist Prince Vaclav of Opava. It was built especially for him in the 14th century. The name comes from the play Doctor Faustus whose life seems to reflect the stories of those who lived inside these walls. Dr. Faust was an unhappy man who sold his soul to the devil in exchange for unlimited knowledge and worldly pleasures. “Faust” and the adjective “Faustian” implies a situation in which an ambitious person surrenders moral integrity to achieve power and success but at a great cost to their soul. Prince Vaclav, influenced by Emperor Rudolf II, was obsessed with black magic. Even after his death, it seems this house was a draw for anyone involved in the mystical arts. 

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John Dee

One of the most famous people rumoured to have lived here is John Dee. Dee was the astrological adviser to Queen Elizabeth I. Before, he was the horoscope writer for Queen Mary but thrown in prisoner as she found astrology to be akin to heresy. But when Queen Elizabeth came into power, she released Dee and had him imployed in her court. Dee’s first task was to go about predicting the most powerful and auspicious day and time for the queen’s coronation. Dee was an important figure in court, and was known to have coined the phrase “the British Empire” and signed his letters with the secret code, ‘007’. A number that would go onto inspire the James Bond novels. But Dee wasn’t satisfied at court. He was obsessed with the idea of contacting angels.

Edward Kelly

He used crystal balls and spirit mirrors, hoping that these creations could allow him to peer into the unknown. Through this research, he got looped in with our friend, Edward Kelley. Kelley himself had boasted his connection with the godly planes to Dee on multiple visits to England. At the time, Edward Kelley was known as more of a rather unbecoming con-artist and coin forger, so Dee was hesitant to get in bed with him.

Despite his hesitation, curiosity got the best of him. Kelley and Dee would take part in seances where they would claim to speak to the angels. Dee would translate what Kelley would repeat after hearing it from the apparent angel. Dee wrought it all down in a book, and he claimed this language they overheard was the voice of God and the dialect of the angels.

It was the creation of this book of angelic translations that drew Emperor Rudolf’s interest. Dee practiced fasting as a means to contact the beyond, and it was perhaps in these states of vitamin deficient hallucinations that he was able to produce these texts. Rudolf wasn’t a fan of the idea of fasting, but when he heard Dee’s other means of contact, he was more intrigued. Dee also practiced sex rituals, which would put him into a state of ecstasy, during which he could see beyond the veil of reality. Now, this the emperor was keener on.

Sex Rituals

But it would be just these sex rituals that would end the relationship between Dee and Kelley. One day Kelley came to Dee, stating that he had had a conversation with an angel. She told him that the two men should not just share their experiments but also share in their wives. Dee wasn’t keen on the idea, nor his wife, but Kelley, as a charlatan, was very persuasive. After laying with Dee’s wife, she became pregnant and gave birth to a baby boy, which Dee raised as his own despite clearly being Kelley’s child. Dee left Prague soon after his son’s birth, unable to look at Kelley after what he had done. He went back to England, where Queen Elizabeth made hin warden of Christ’s College, where he served until his death.

It is widely rumoured that John Dee was the inspiration for Shakespeare’s character of Prospero in the play the Tempest. Dee and Shakespeare knew each other from the court of Elizabeth I, and their relationship is something which is legend in the field of mysticism. Dee was described as “tall and slender. He wore a gown like an artist’s gown, with hanging sleeves, and a slit…A very fair, clear sanguine complexion… a long beard as white as milk.” A perfect description of what would become the staple image for mystical wizards in tales to come.

Other Residents

After Dee, astrologer Jakub Krucinek moved into the house with his two sons. The youngest son killed the elder when he discovered the elder son had hidden a secret treasure inside the house. The house was eventually sold to alchemist Ferdinand Antonin Mladota of Solopysky. Famously Mladota would perform experiments inside the house, which would explode and leave holes in the ceiling. A student who moved into the house years later found a book hidden in the walls, which apparently has many references to summoning the devil. 

Another quirky resident of the house was Karl Jaenig, who painted the walls with funeral text and slept in a coffin. So something more than fishy is definitely going on here. People speculate the house is a portal to hell, but no one will ever know for sure.

The Black Lady of Stráž 

Ema Destinnová, or as she was better known, the Black Lady of Stráž, was a famous Czech opera singer. She made her singing debut in 1898 at the Berlin opera house. Her voice was so beautiful that she travelled worldwide to preform, going as far as the New York Metropolitan Opera house! She is such a pride to the nation that her portrait was even printed on the 2,000 kronor back in 1996. But perhaps unknown to some in these modern days is that she famously dabbled in the occult and loved spiritualism and fortune-telling! Her library featured books on alchemy, astrology, witchcraft, books on herbs, and occultism. She even had a set of tarot cards painted by the artist Robert Schlosser made just for her.

#7 Kateřinská

Destinnová bought a chateau for herself in the South of Bohemia. The main reason she was drawn to the castle was because of the spooky book collection. The old owner has amassed a collection of books on the occult. Apparently, Destinnová would host seances in her “ghost room” above the old castle dungeon. When Destinnová died, all her books were auctioned off. The details of her torrid collection were finally revealed but covered up to ensure her legacy was untarnished. She was born here at #7 Kateřinská, now a restaurant. One can only imagine how beginning your life in a city steeped in mysticism would influence your future. After all, she was born a mere few blocks away from the famous Faust house. Was it fate? Or does this city weave a spell over all those who walk its cobblestone streets? You decide.

This brings us to the end of the tour. Hopefully, you enjoyed learning all about the mysterious and mystical history of Prague’s alchemists. I know one of my favourite parts of travelling is learning about these oddities and strange stories. Let me know in the comments what your favourite locations or tale was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Discover the Secrets of Magic & Alchemy in Prague, Free Walking Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
3. Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn
   • Two Towers
   • Entry to Our Lady of Tyn
   • Interior of Our Lady of Tyn
4. Storch House, #16
5. At the Stone Table, #18
6. The Golden Unicorn
7. The Little Square
8. Restaurant White Horse
9. Old Town Hall
10. Prague's Astronomical Clock
11. The Minute House
12. Markets
13. Church of St. Nicholas
14. Prague Municipal Insurance Company
15. Kinský Palace
16. Stone Bell House
17. Centre of the Town Square
    • Jan Jesenius Statue
18. Prague Meridian

Access

The Old Town Square is located between Wenceslas Square and Charles Bridge You can easily reach the square by walking down from “Staroměstská” metro station. If you’re close by, I would always recommend walking if you can, since seeing things along the way is half the fun of visiting Prague. Since the city is so small, walking to your next destination is always an option instead of taking the trams or metro.

History

This the old town square was originally founded in the 12th century as the city’s primary marketplace. Traders from all over Prague and indeed, all over Europe, would travel here to trade goods in one of the most beautiful scenic town centre’s found anywhere. The square is surrounded on all sides by fantastical pastel stucco buildings, notably taller than most historic buildings found in other European cities.

The original Romanesque houses which were built around the square where flooded repeatedly and so the ground was raised 2-4 meters to prevent future flooding. This meant that the only remaining portions of those houses were the basements, the rest of the houses around the square are all from the Gothic, Baroque and Rococo period.

Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn

Start your walking tour of Old Town Square at the Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn. The most imposing building is, without a doubt, this twin-towered church standing guard at the outskirts of the square. The distinctive black Gothic spires loom over the Týn Courtyard and they can be seen all across Prague. The main facade is hidden from the central square by a row of pastel arcade houses which sit nestled under its shadow.

In the 11th century, a large Romanesque church once stood on this site. It was commissioned by the foreign merchants who sold their goods in the Týn Courtyard. The Týn Courtyard still stands today, and you can visit all different merchants and their shops who sell traditional Czech wares. Tyn Church was dubbed “Cathedral of aristocrats” since the merchants who funded the church’s construction were wealthy and wanted a church all of their own. They desired their new building to rival St. Vitus Cathedral on the other river bank inside Prague Castle. Although personally I don’t believe it does, they sure made a good attempt. Construction began as early as 1256 when High Gothic architecture was in its prime. The soaring vertical columns and towers were inspired by St. Vitus Cathedral built by Matthias of Arras.

Two Towers

The two towers which make Church of our Lady so iconic are about 80 meters tall, but they are not symmetrical. One, named “Adam”, is larger than the other, called “Eve”. Between the two towers, is a small, pitched roof. Inlaid on the roof is a golden statue of the “Virgin Mary.”. In one hand she is holding baby Jesus and with the other a sceptre. The child holds in his arms a sphere, symbolising holding the world in his hand. But this is not just any golden statue. When the Hussites gained control of Prague, King George – the Hussite King – had a giant statue of himself created and erected between the two towers. After the Thirty Years’ War between the Bohemians and the Holy Roman Emperor, when the Hussites were defeated, the old statue was melted down to make the new one of the Virgin Mary.

Entry to Our Lady of Tyn

To enter the church, you must head down a narrow pathway and enter through the small door on the northern side of the church. The hidden entrance means that the church is often almost empty since tourists tend to get their picture and go. It’s worth looking inside if you’re an art history buff or love ecclesiastical architecture.

The north portal’s arched doorway contains a 14th-century tympanum with an intricate depiction of the Crucifixion carved into it. It was carved by the workshop of Charles IV’s favourite architect, Peter Parler, who went on to finish St. Vitus Cathedral.

Interior of Our Lady of Tyn

While the exterior is gothic, the interior was renovated in the 17th century and is a Baroque gem. Golden frames, with richly drawn saints, adorn the columns. In the centre of the nave is the elegant altar surrounded by jewel toned painting by Karel Škréta. One of the most famous things to see inside is the tomb of the astronomer Tycho Brahe. He was a Danish astronomer, and court scientist for Rudolf II and his marble tombs portrays a cartoon effigy of himself. The dominating, gold organ inside is the oldest organ in Prague and dates all the way back to 1673.

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Storch House, #16

The Storch house, one of the most decorated houses on the square. #16, also named the “the Stone Virgin Mary” is painted with figurative paintings of St. Wecestless, the three Magi, all from the 19th century. Along with the paintings are some exquisitely ornate script.

At the Stone Table, #18

The pale peach house at #18, also named the house “At the Stone Table” was once a famous salon where writers would gather to share their stories and drink the night away. Famously Franz Kafka, Max Brod, Franz Werfel or Egon Erwin Kisch all used to frequent this house.

The Golden Unicorn

The pale blue house on the square, wonderfully named the Golden Unicorn, was once a Romanesque house since converted in 1496 Matěj Rejsek into a monumental tower-like early Gothic palace. The house is most notable for being the first bookstore open to the public in 1838.

The Little Square

Walking south of the Church, head towards the Old Town Hall. As you go, you’ll pass a small grouping of the most elegant houses which make up the “Little Square”. Since the square is a pedestrian only area of the city, you can stroll at your leisure, taking time to look up at all the multicoloured, pastel residences lining the route. Every architectural style can be found here. On the first floor of many of these building, you’ll find various cafes and restaurants. Many of the pubs bear names like ‘At the Stone Ram’, ‘At the Red Fox’ and ‘At the Blue Star’. Since there were no house numbers in the early 17th century, the residents installed signs or plaques with an identifiable character or animal on them to identify which house was theirs.

Restaurant White Horse

Although hugely touristy portions of Prague like this are rife with scams and ripoff restaurants, one of the only good ones on the square is the Restaurant White Horse. Go for the beef goulash and a tall pint of Czech beer to have a traditional luncheon. The prices might be a touch on the high side, but when in the old town square you’re paying for the atmosphere and the environment as well as the food.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Old Town Hall

Across from The Little Square, you can find the Old Town Hall. Although the town hall is most famous for its astronomical clock, its historic importance and role in the development of the city is nothing to scoff at.

The current town hall is the amalgamation of several old houses which were connected over the years to form one large administration building. In 1338 the councillors bought a large royal house from the family Volflin. In 1458 a house only known as “Mike’s house” was added to the west side. The Gothic “Cock” house was bought in 1835. The “Cock House” still contains a preserved Romanesque hall dating from the beginning of the 13th century.

Prague’s Astronomical Clock

The Astronomical Clock (or Prague Orloj) is one of Prague’s BIGGEST attractions, or at least that’s what the hoards of people crowding around it would make you believe. The clock is housed on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall and has been there, in part, since 1410. Legend says that if something bad were to befall the clock, Prague itself would fall. Although it is just a superstitious rumour, it’s been enough to keep the clock well protected and preserved after all these years.

There are three main parts to the clock. The first is the Dial, which represents the Sun and Moonand their position in the sky. The next is the Sculptures of the Apostles who, upon the hour, perform a little show for the onlookers. They spin around the clock, chased by a statue of death. This is what everyone is waiting to see but let me tell you, this little show isn’t worth fighting your way through the mob. Once the show is over, the crowds disappear, and you get a much better view of the clock itself. The final part is the Calendar Dial. It is surrounded by different medallions representing the various months of the year and their corresponding astrological signs.

The Minute House

The “Minute House” was purchased in 1896. It was a Gothic house from the 15th century, and the exterior is decorated with series of sgraffito designs representing classical and biblical themes. Sgraffito is a form of decoration made by scratching through a surface to reveal a lower layer of a contrasting colour (in this case black and white) typically done in plaster or stucco on walls. The Gothic stone portal is one of the last original aspects of the town hall standing today and serves as the main entrance.

Markets

Throughout the year, many different street vendors set up shop here in the square. They serve a multitude of traditional Czech dishes and are a perfect place to grab a bite to eat. At Christmas time, Prague’s Christmas Markets is erected in the square, drawing hundreds and thousands of people who wander the medieval inspired stalls. In the centre of the square, a large Christmas tree is raised, and bands play throughout the day.

Church of St. Nicholas

The Church of Saint Nicholas sits behind the Town Hall. It’s large green topped towers sit atop the pristine white, Baroque church facade. The church was built in 1732, and it’s interior hosts a lovely array of baroque frescos and sculptures.

Prague Municipal Insurance Company

The custard cream yellow, neo-baroque building facing on the centre of the square is an administrative building of Prague municipal insurance company was built in 1901. Carved onto the facade are various sculptural decorations depicting fire and water, two of the main sources of insurance claims both now and in the 19th century.

Kinský Palace

One of my favourite buildings on the square is the Kinský Palace. It’s pink decorations, and white stucco exterior makes it looks like a frilly, Rococo birthday cake. The palace was originally built for the Golz family in 1755. Along the facade are statues by Ignaz Franz Platzer which represent multiple classical elements.

In 2006, the building was renovated to house the new Czech National Galler Museum. The famous author Franz Kafka was born in Prague and his family history is found throughout the city. His father, Hermann Kafka, was a haberdasher and his first store was located right here on the first floor of the palace.

Stone Bell House

Beside the Kinský Palace, you can find the Stone Bell House. The house is one of the oldest on the square and is one of the only remaining which preserves its original gothic architecture. The buildings now play hosts to a rotating mix of contemporary art exhibits and musical events.

Centre of the Town Square

In the centre of the square is an enormous monument of the religious reformer, Jan Hus. The statue was created to mark the 500th anniversary of his death. Jan Hus was a martyr and burnt at the stake for his beliefs which started the Hussite Wars. A turning point in Czech history.

Jan Jesenius Statue

Across from the Town Hall are the ‘Memorials to the Martyrs’ which include Jan Jesenius and Maxmilián Hošťálek who were beheaded right here during the “Battle of White Mountain”. 27 crosses mark the pavement in their honour. Legend has it that every year, on the date of their execution (June 21st), the dead noblemen return as ghosts and visit the living.

But more than just gruesome things happened here. Since 1311, the square was the site of coronation parades. Hundreds of villagers would come here to celebrate their new leaders, dressed in all their finery, throwing flowers and dancing in the streets.

Prague Meridian

Set amongst the cobblestones on the square, is a rectangular plaque which marks the place, where the former “Marian column” used to stand. The Marian column was once a large baroque design made of sandstone and was created to give thanks for the defence of Prague from the raids of the Swedish troops in 1648. But it also served a functional purpose. The shadow of the column would show villagers high noon. Now a plaque marks the spot and written in both Czech and Latin is says, ” MERIDIAN ACCORDING TO WHICH PRAGUE TIME WHAD BEEN REGULATED IN THE PAST / MERIDIANUS QUO OLIM TEMPUS PRAGENSE DIRIGEBATUR.”

You’re bound to discover something beautiful, something new, something old or something incredible here in Old Town Square. Despite the crowds, it definitely worth a visit. Find a peaceful spot, grab a coffee and saunter to your heart’s content.

The post Free Guide to Prague’s Fairytale Old Town Square first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Access
3. Brewery
4. Admission
5. Viewing Gallery
   • Medieval Monastery
6. The Grand Philosophical Hall
   • Intellectual Progress of Mankind
7. Cabinets of Curiosities
8. The Theological Hall
   • Murals in the Theological Hall
   • St John the Evangelist

History

The Strahov Monastery was first established in 1140. Throughout the years it was destroyed and rebuilt, time after time, war after war. Many of their precious books were stolen, and despite this, every time they rebuilt it, they sought to rebuild their libraries, even grander. Creating a space of importance and preservation for the tombs within. Today, the Monastery and the library stand as a jewel of the Baroque era. Even from afar their bright red-tiled roofs and copper spires, aged to a brilliant teal colour, contrast the grey skies.

Access

To get to the library, walk across the Charles Bridge to board the #22 Tram and ride it to the stop ‘Pohořelec’. From this stop it’s only a 5 minute walk downhill to get to the library. Alternatively, take in the monastery as a part of my Petrin Hill Self-Guided Walking Tour!

Brewery

As you ascend the hill towards the main building, you first pass another piece of the Monastery’s history; its brewery. This brewery was established in the 1600’s, and the monks would work and produce beer to create income their order. Even today you can visit the brewery and drink a glass sitting in their scenic beer garden. We made sure to make a pit stop here before heading to the library. Like all beer in Prague, it is cheap and delicious! And the view is unbeatable, look out over the valley and across to Prague Castle.

Admission

The entry price for visiting the Library and Pictures gallery is CZK 120, and there is a small photo fee if you want to take pictures. While some people complain about this cost, I love this feature. Some places don’t let you take pictures at all, but here, by charging a small fee, it can control the cameras in the museum and helps bring in a little more money to ensure proper preservation the delicate pages inside against those harsh flashes that people inevitably use. The library is open daily from 9am to 5pm (with a one hour lunch break from 12pm-1pm when it is closed). Last admission 30 minutes before closing.

The library has three parts which visitors can explore. The Grand Philosophical Hall, The Baroque Theological Hall and the Cabinets of Curiosities. After paying admission to a surely looking Czech woman inside an ancient wooden toll booth, you are allowed to head the old stone staricase towards the library.

Viewing Gallery

The first room you enter inside the Monastery is the Viewing Gallery. This room contains dozens of timeworn books, preserved in glass cases. The most important, beautiful and rare book of the collection, as well as one of the oldest, is the Strahov codex. The codex was rebound with red velvet in around 1180 and decorated with four enamel Romanesque carvings and six large red and white crystals. A sculpture of Christ on the Cross, Our Lady and St John, along with four silver Renaissance medallions of the evangelists were also added to create one of the most stunning book covers I’ve ever seen.

Behind the glass in the other cabinets, you can see the masterful art works within the pages of this book. This codex older than the Czech state itself, dating from 860-865. There are between 980 and 985 full page drawings of the evangelists. The illustrations contained within were painted by some of the great masters of book illustrations in the Ottoman empire.

Medieval Monastery

In medieval times, before the printing press, the only way of getting text into books was to write it by hand. This was mostly done by Monks of the order. Since these Bibles and Holy tombs were handmade, they were extremely expensive. But they were most than just words; they were works of art. So much time, care and artistry were put into each unique treasure. The monks were incredibly talented, and each of the tiny painted scenes hidden on each piece of parchment brought the story alive to the readers. In addition to the codex, there are various other illustrated books from the medieval period depicting subjects like religion, mythology and even geography inside the glass cases in the entry.

The Grand Philosophical Hall

The Grand Philosophical Hall is the jewel of the monastery. Looking from floor to ceiling at this ornately designed library will literally take your breath away. It contains over 42,000 ancient philosophical texts, sprawling along the room like a wave of knowledge. The room was designed in 1794 by Jan Ignác Palliardi, an Italian architect living in Bohemia. He used elements of the previous, smaller library, when creating his final vision. This preserved the beautiful old walnut interior for the previous library.

The sheer size of this library is what first hits you. It is 32 meters long, 22 meters wide, with a ceiling height of 14 meters. Your eyes are not doubted drawn right up to the bright and action packed frescos above. These were done by the Viennese painter Anton Maulbertsch, who spent over six months working with only one other artist to complete the stunning scene.

Intellectual Progress of Mankind

The painting depicts the ‘Intellectual Progress of Mankind’ and shows developments in science and religion, and their mutual impact on each other. It also represents man’s quest for knowledge and his drive to learn the secrets of the universe. We can see Noah building the ark, Cain and Abel as well as the evolution of Greek civilization. There are philosophers standing guard; Socrates and Diogenes as well as leaders like Alexander the Great. There are two levels to the library. The main level with rolling staircase to access the books at the very top of the shelves, and a gallery only accessible from a hidden spiral staircase. The staircase looks like the spines of books but is, in fact, simply painted onto the wooden door.

Cabinets of Curiosities

Between the Philosophers hall and the theological hall, you’ll come across various cabinets of curiosities. This particular collection was from the estate of Karel Jan Erben, brought to the monastery in 1798. These cabinets are tiny museums. Wealthy collectors had the ability to buy different items that interested or amused them and assemble it all together in these gilded cabinets. They would then invite friends over to admire their collection and tell stories about the various pieces within. To these people, it was the height of entertainment.

In the Renaissance when these cabinets first began to pop-up, the most popular items in the collections were mysterious or remarkable objects. Then, obsession moved onto natural sciences, like collections of sea fauna. There were insect collections, mineral samples, and wax replicas of fruit. One of rarest things in the collection is the prepared remains of, the now extinct, Dodo bird. There are weapons and armour from Bohemia as well as ceramics, sculptures and more. One of my favourite cabinets contains a ‘dendrology’ library. 68 volumes prepared by Karel of Hinterlagen from around 1825 full of different types of wood! Seems pretty dull but I love when people have something, even something mundane, that they are obsessed with.

The Theological Hall

The Theological Hall is down the long hallway from the Philosopher’s Hall. This gallery contains over 18,000 religious texts. Many of the books included are rare volumes seen only by the monks and approved scholars. The room is named ‘Theological Hall’ after the fact that it contains nothing but different editions of the Bible or parts of the Bible in all different languages. The Theological Hall was built in 1671 by architect Giovanni Domennico Orsi, a Prague burgher of Italian origin. The Italian influence can be seen throughout the design of the library, especially in all the stucco touches above the shelves.

The bookshelves are gilded wood with carved decoration. The use of red throughout related to the ‘sacred’ as these books were considered some of the most sacred things in their time. Although we look at the use of upright shelves in the library as the norm now, Baroque designers were the first ones to use the upright shelf design compared to the Gothic desk system or Romanesque treasury system.

Murals in the Theological Hall

Above the shelves of the Theological Hall are gilded wooded-carved decorations inside wooden cartouches. These functioned as a sort of early card cataloguing system. The pictures in the wooden cartouches specified the type of literature stored on the shelves below. Above all the shelves is magnificently painted fresco. The mural portrays the ethos of the library that a person with great faith must also build on his knowledge and provide education for those who need it, sharing his learned knowledge with the world. There is a piece of script carved into the iron gates on the other side of the library which states INITIUM SAPIENTIAE TIMOR DOMINI (the beginning of wisdom is fear of God.) Along the centre of the room are a series of 17th-century geographical and astronomical globes.

St John the Evangelist

One of the most important objects in the room is the late-Gothic wooden statue of St John the Evangelist. In his left hand, he holds a real ‘girdle-book’. These girdles were used as carrying cases for the treasured objects, in this case, books, as people travelled from city to city, reading to the common folk. The beautifully stitched and sewn carving of the girdle depicts the care that was taken in the protection of books in the medieval area. So much time and effort was taken into creating them; you had to be so careful when taking them out of the libraries arms.

The Strahov Monastery Library is one of those places that is often overlooked by the majority of travellers who come to Prague, so even if you’re not a bibliophile, this is a perfect place to soak in some beautiful architecture, gorgeous art and escape the crowds. If only for a moment.

The post Ultimate Guide to the Secrets inside the stunning Strahov Monastery Library, Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

What NOT to do in Prague and what to do Instead!

1. Don't Watch the Astronomical Clock Show
2. Don't Walk Down Karlova Street
3. Don't Accept Anything you Didn't Order
4. Don't Hire a Taxi
5. Don't Visit the Charles Bridge at Midday
6. Don't Drink the Absinthe
7. Don't Think the "trdelnik" is Czech
8. Don't Take the #22 Tram
9. Don't Visit Wenceslas Square at night 
10. Don't Waste your Time on a Segway Tour
11. Don't Change Money on the Street
12. Don't take a "Historical" Car Tour
13. Don't Eat at the Restaurants in or near Old Town Square
14. Don't Overpay for Beer

Don’t Watch the Astronomical Clock Show

One of the most popular attractions in Prague is the Astronomical Clock “Show“. Every hour the clock chimes, music plays and figures dance around the dials. Tourists flock to the square during this time and create a mob around the clock, sometimes so thick you can barely see much of anything. They are usually all so loud too that you can’t even hear the music play.

Instead:

Wait a few minutes after the show has finished. Moments after, all the tourists flutter away and you’ll be staring up at this work of art almost all by yourself. If you’ve come to Prague to study the incredible art and architecture, skip watching the show in person – videos of it can be found easily on youtube, and spend your time up close and personal when the bucket listers have left. 

Don’t Walk Down Karlova Street

Karlova Street starts right behind the Hotel Aurus and ends at the foot of the Charles Bridge. Although the buildings which adorn the street have stunning baroque facades, this once historic street has been overtaken with cheesy souvenir shops selling silly tchotchkes from China at engorged priced. There are so many people in Prague trying to take advantage of the many tourists who come here that even the most Czech looking souvenir on this street is no doubt from overseas. The architecture is not worth the hubbub and you end up fighting your way through this densely frustrating street to even see much of anything. There are so many more lovely buildings you’ll see in other, less well-known areas of the city, so don’t feel like you’re missing out.

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Instead:

Head down to Havel’s Market. This is the oldest market in the city, dating back to 1232. Although it originally only sold produce to feed the people of the city, in later years it has begun to sell souvenirs and other handmade Czech goods from local artisans. This is where you can come to find a traditional souvenir for friends or family back at home which you can proudly boast is “made in Prague“. But be sure to taste test some of those amazing fruits and veggies too!

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Don’t Accept Anything you Didn’t Order

Until I had been to Prague I had never had any issues at restaurants while travelling so I didn’t think twice when I was given two welcome drinks I didn’t order. I thought they were merely a gift from the restaurants and would be free of charge. Boy, was I wrong! Luckily they only cost 3 euros so it wasn’t like it broke the bank but I felt so stupid and taken advantage of.

This is, unfortunately, a pretty common scam in Prague, especially in popular tourist restaurants. If your server comes to your table and doesn’t even offer you the drink, just put it down, be assertive and call him back to take it away. Study your bill upon leaving and don’t pay for anything you didn’t order. The staff will usually back down instantly once they realized they’ve been caught since they’re going for the easy mark. They’ll usually say it was merely a mistake and take it off your bill without any drama.

Instead:

Visit restaurants outside the city centre where these scams aren’t an issue and where you’ll find more authentic and traditional meals.

Don’t Hire a Taxi

Taxis are another common scam in Prague. Catching a cab outside popular tourist areas or from the train station means leaving yourself vulnerable to dishonest drivers. Almost none of them use the meter, even the reputable companies, and when you arrive at your destination they seem to make up a fee out of the blue which is often far, far more than you were originally quoted. Many tourists will find it hard to argue when it’s their word against the drivers and will simply pay the fare and be on their way. 

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Instead:

If you have a Czech SIM card or have a good international plan on your phone and can access the internet, and take advantage of UBER which has recently launched in Prague. This means you can check your fare before the cab arrives and you won’t be charged a surprising amount once at your destination. We used this a lot while we were there and had absolutely no issues!

If you are interested in exploring the city on your own, consider renting a car. AutoEurope has a big variety of cars in Czech Republic and since there are so many places out of town which can be a little difficult to get to on public transport, having your own car is a great way to find unique adventures.

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Don’t Visit the Charles Bridge at Midday

The Charles Bridge is one of the most iconic images and sights in Prague. And while I would never say to skip it all together, during the afternoon, this bridge is PACKED! Almost to the point where you can barely see anything but people! There is so much to look at and admire on this bridge and being overwhelmed by tourists isn’t the experience I’d want you to have your first time here.

Instead:

During the afternoon, use one of the other bridges to the north or south and nab yourself a beautiful picture of the Charles Bridge and the Prague skyline all in one. During the early morning or evening, the bridge is much less full and you can take the time to appreciate the beautiful statues and architecture which makes this bridge so iconic.

Don’t Drink the Absinthe

Walking down the cobblestone roads of Prague you can’t help you notice the dozens and dozens of signs for Absinthe. Absinthe was originally produced in Switzerland but became popular in France during the 18th century. Absinthe became a popular drink in Czechoslovakia in the early 1900s but the kinds of Absinthe you see in bars today is far from the real thing. Often you’ll even see it spelt “Absinth” without the “e”, since it’s missing the key ingredient to make it authentic absinthe. Most places don’t serve it the way it’s meant to be drank, resulting in a horribly bitter taste. While there are some bars which still offer the traditional serving, it’s better not to risk it.

Instead:

Indulge in the local spirits like plum or pear brandy or the dozens and dozens of cheap, local beer! These will often be half the price and more than twice as delicious!

Don’t Think the “trdelnik” is Czech

The “trdelnik” is a chimney-shaped pastry, coated in butter and cooked on a rotating spit over a charcoal fire. Then they are covered in your chosen topping like cinnamon sugar, nuts or Nutella. They are instagrammable and frankly, delicious, but they are NOT Czech. They are originally from Slovakia and arrived in Prague when the packs of tourists did. Don’t go around eating them day in and day out, saying you’re sampling local cuisine!

Instead:

Head to a mom and pop bakery where you can sample different traditional pastries for what ONE trdelnik would cost you. And without waiting in a long line too! They are just, if not more, tastey and will open your taste buds up to flavours you’ve never had before!

Don’t Take the #22 Tram

The #22 tram is notorious for having pickpockets. The #22 is the route most tourists take since it runs around the old town and drops you off at all the big ticket attractions. Since there are so many tourists on these trams, often crammed inside, it’s easy for pickpockets to spot their mark and do the deed without being noticed. If you do take a ride, be vigilant and hold onto your belongings in front of you so as to not be robbed in plain sight.

Instead:

Prague is much smaller than you might think and the best way to see it is on foot! While keeping your wits about you is another great tip if you find yourself riding the tram, walking allows you to wander off the set path and explore whatever catches your eye! Plus you’ll save a little bit of money which can be better spent on a cold beer to end a long day!

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Don’t Visit Wenceslas Square at night 

Wenceslas Square is one of the most historic areas of the city. This enormous square hosts some of the most incredible bohemia architecture and was the place of many revolutionary events in Prague’s history. During the day it is filled with happy locals and tourists alike enjoying public spaces but at night it’s a different story. This place attracts swarms of bachelor and bachelorette parties. They are often very drunk and disorderly and the best thing to do is to avoid them altogether. Drunken tourists seem to bring forth the darker side of the city. Prostitutes and scammers are known to frequent the square in the hopes of taking advantage of these tourists with their guards down.

Instead:

If you’re looking to take in the sights of a Baroque city lit up at night, head down to Old Town Square. The restaurants around the square are to be avoided due to their high costs and low quality but their presence brings lots of life to the square even at night meaning its a very safe place to explore. And when all those buildings are lit up they seem to emit an ethereal glow.

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Don’t Waste your Time on a Segway Tour

Segway tours have become an epidemic throughout Europe. And the locals despise them. Segways are “two-wheeled, self-balancing personal transportation vehicles”. They rush along the sidewalks at speeds which are quite dangerous to pedestrians especially when the riders might not be too experience or even perhaps under the influence. Often you see tourists spending more time trying to figure out how to use these vehicles than spending time enjoying the sights. Be kind to the people who call this city home and don’t take a ride on these dangerous machines.

Instead:

If you’re looking for a different kind of guided tour, don’t go for the Segways. Try out of Foodie tour where you explore the city through its culinary culture. Or try Urban Adventures’s retro bike tour where you can ride on bikes which were made in communist Czechoslovakia and see the best Prague has to offer to boot.

Don’t Change Money on the Street

Although Prague does accept Euros, they are exchanged in most establishments at a much lower exchange rate than if you were using the Czech Koruna. If you have Euros and you’re hoping to exchange them for Czech Koruna’s you’ll find yourself at the mercy of one of Prague’s popular scams. Many “exchange” bureaus around old town aren’t actually official money exchange businesses and will give you immensely lower rates than official exchange. These places have been known to list one rate on the signage outside but once you come inside they change it without you noticing. Another common scam is the people exchanging money on the street. These are full on rip-offs as these vendors will give you fake currency instead of real Czech Korunas.

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Instead:

Stick to ATMs. The best way to get Czech Koruna is either to bring it with you from your bank back home or to take money out at a reliable ATM whose brand name you’re familiar with. Yes, this means you’ll have to pay some bank fees but it is definitely the easiest and safest option. 

Don’t take a “Historical” Car Tour

All over old town, you’ll see signs advertising “Historical Car Tours“. For 60 minutes and around 120 euros, you’ll be driven across the historic areas of Prague with a driver “guide”. These guides often barely speak with the riders and since the cars are all open tops, it’s very hard to hear what they’re saying anyway. The “historic” cars are anything but. While they might have been given the appearance of a vintage car, they are mostly brand new replicas. Since, as we’ve mentioned before, Prague is a rather small town, it’s extremely easy to visit on foot and by only sticking to the main roads you’re going to miss so much of the magic.

Instead:

If you’re interested in learning about retro cars, head to the Trabant Museum. The Trabant was a car made in East Germany in the 1950s. The museum is small but full of interesting facts, tchotchkies and real cars from this short-lived era of auto manufacturing. Trabant enthusiasts from Prague loved racing these cars and their devotion to this model grew into the museum you see today.

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Don’t Eat at the Restaurants in or near Old Town Square

Old Town Square is one of the most beautiful parts of Prague. And so many of its buildings, statues and museums require your undivided attention. But what doesn’t are the subpar, kitschy and unremarkable restaurants which line the bottom floor of the square. These restaurants also charge about three times the price of meals you’d find in other restaurants well outside the Old Town Square and the waiters are usually pretty grumpy since they deal with tourists all day. 

Instead:

If you’re looking for a wonderful traditional meal, avoid any tourist centre. Look for menus with NO ENGLISH listed on the signs outside. I know this might sound intimidating but trust me, once you get inside they often do have one or two menus in English or the kind waiters will be more than happy to help you order the chef’s specialities. In establishments like this you’ll find better food, better prices and amazing service!

Don’t Overpay for Beer

Locally produced beer in Prague is wonderful, fresh and it SHOULD be cheap! If you find yourself at a restaurant paying over 4 euros for Pilsner Urquell, you’re overpaying. Urquell is a great benchmark for judging the fairness of the restaurant you’re dining at. Specialty microbrews will, of course, run you a little more but should never be over 6 Euros for a pint.

Instead:

If you’re looking to sample a fair few of Prague’s best beers, you should definitely visit the Prague Beer Museum. Don’t’ let the name fool you, it’s no museum. It basically a giant pub serving hundreds and hundreds of different brews. Knowledgeable servers and staff can help you find the best brew for your tastes at reasonable prices and a stunning environment!

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Don’t let these warnings scare you away from this incredible city. There is a reason so many people flock here. Prague is truly unrivalled in terms of beauty and character. And while there may be people who come here to take advantage of unsuspecting tourists, armed with this knowledge in advance, you’ll be no easy mark. You’ll be able to make your way across this marvelous city without a care in the world outside of saying, “I don’t want to leave.“

The post What NOT To Do on your Next Trip to Prague And Amazing Things to Do Instead! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.