When I first came to Denmark, this castle was one of the top things on my list to do. Rick Steves‘, my personal travel guru, had a rave review of Frederiksborg and I knew, based on his opinion, I had to make the journey out there myself! The most unique aspect of the castle is perhaps its furnishings. Frederiksborg is decorated to look as if it is still inhabited. There are few barriers between you and the history and at times, when you’re alone in the room, you feel like you could just jump into bed (but don’t). As you move through the castle, you travel through time, room by room, by the changing decor.

Location

Frederiksborg Castle is located in the small town of Hillerød. If you want to make an entire day out of your trip to Frederiksbborg Castle, you should spend some time in the village of Hillerød. It is such a perfect, quaint little town. The Hillerød City & Graphic Museum is a great place to visit on your way out of town. It features a complete history oh Hillerod, games for children and a little letterpress museum. There is an amazing gallery featuring samples of advertisements that were used in town printed on that very letterpress. Large dioramas of what day-to-day activities would have looked like in Denmark in the 19th-century are also joyfully curated to bring this town’s history to life.

How to Get There

Assuming you’re coming to Frederiksborg from Copenhagen, you’ll just need to hop on the S-train. Take Line A from Copenhagen Station to Hillerød Station. The ride takes about 40 minutes and costs 92 DKK or $9 USD.

From Hillerød Station you can walk directly to the Palace. The walk takes just under 20 minutes and is a lovely little jaunt through the village. If the weather isn’t on your side, you can also take the local bus 301 (towards Ullerød) or bus 302 (towards Sophienlund). Get off at the stop “Frederiksborg Slot” or Frederiksborg Palace.

There is also a third option, which is the ferry! You can take the ferry right into the castle but I would recommend doing the ferry on your way back. The optimal way to experience the castle tour is from via the roadway which leads into the front entry, whereas the ferry would take you into via the back entrance.

Hours and Admission

Buy your tickets online or at the castle on the day you arrive. Unless you’re visiting during the absolute peak of the season, I wouldn’t worry about buying a ticket in advance as this castle is pretty quiet when compared to other popular attractions.

Accessibility

It’s important to note that the entryway into the castle is heavily cobbled. If you have a walking aid you should be ok with some assistance. But if you require handicapped access, there is a separate entrance available to the right of the main entrance. Press the button to call for assistance.

Elevators connect all floors of the museum for wheelchair access. The only rooms not available are the Palace Chapel and the Great Hall (which are not accessible to wheelchairs). If you think all the walking might be a little strenuous and you’d rather be comfortable, the museum has two wheelchairs, which can be borrowed from the ticket office. Authorized guides and assistance dogs are also welcome in the museum.

When to Arrive

I would recommend arriving right when the palace opens. There is so much to see here but arriving at opening also means you’ll find the least amount of people here. The early bird catches the worm, and when I came in the early morning I had almost the entire place to myself. It was magical. But one of the reasons I love this castle is because of its low levels of tourist traffic. That means that even if you get up late you’ll still find a rather open and uncrowded palace to explore.

Kaffebar

Since the only cafe on the castle property is located very far away from the main entrance, you’re best to stop for some breakfast or lunch on your way into town. My pick would be Kaffebar. This bohemian cafe is a great place to get your morning brew and enjoy a traditional Danish breakfast. Which, contrary to popular belief, does not contain danishes. Try their freshly baked rye bread with cheese, ham and sausage or one of their many rich pastries!

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History of Frederikzborg Castle

Purchased by Frederick II in 1560, Frederiksborg Castle was once simply a noble manor house owned by a wealthy landowner. At the time, Frederick II was the reigning sovereign of Denmark and Norway. He fell in love with the manor. Frederick was obsessed with obtaining it and eventually purchased it in exchange for a new royal title for the current owner. He named it Frederiksborg, which translated means literally to “Frederick’s Palace“. Frederick II made many additions to expand the house into an awe-inspiring castle. He wanted to build on the grandeur of the original structure but add his own artistic touches.

When his son, Christian IV, became king he was keen to transform the palace as well. These kings never seemed satisfied. Christian was born inside the walls of the palace. Therefore, it held a very important place in the heart of the new king. Christian IV was progressive. He loved the new style and designs of Dutch Renaissance architecture. Once he took power, he was excited to see the palace reflect the designs of his time. Flemish architect Hans van Steenwinckel the Elder was brought on to create Christian’s vision. It took over 10 years to be completed and the construction even outlived the original architect.

1800s Renovations

In the 1800s, renovations took place to install new fireplaces throughout the castle as the heating had been a huge issue for the comfort of those nobles inside. But it was this very act that would bring great destruction to the palace. One winter’s night, while in his study, the current king Frederick VII asked for a fire to be lit to keep him warm while he worked late into the night. Since the chimneys were still under construction, the smoke and heat could not be released and a fire broke out inside the castle.

The Great Fire

The lake was frozen over and staff couldn’t get enough water pumped to put out the fire. The fire spread rapidly throughout the castle and by morning almost the entire palace had been severely damaged or destroyed. Staff had worked throughout the night to save over 300 paintings and smaller historical items from the fire. You can still see these saved items on display today inside the castle.

After the fire, the royals stayed in another one of their residences while Frederiksborg castle was being rebuilt. But after a short period of time, the royals decided to abandon the reconstruction of Frederiksborg castle. It was too much of a financial drain on their coffers and since they had other large manor houses, it felt like an unnecessary expense.

Transformation into a Museum

In 1878, J. C. Jacobsen, the founder of Carlsberg Brewery, had the grand idea to turn the disused Palace, into a museum. Jacobsen was a passionate collector and loved his country. He thought it was a travesty to see this beautiful piece of history deteriorating in the countryside. He offered to pay for all its reconstruction and any further expenses! Today the palace is still run by the Carlsberg Foundation and it is thanks for him that can explore this wonderous piece of Danish architecture. 

The castle museum features 500 years of Danish history which has been woven throughout the walls of the palace. There are portraits, paintings of historic events, antique furniture and decorative arts dotting the entire palace, creating a timeline of Danish life. Seeing these pieces in-situ, rather than just clumped together in a modern gallery, makes history come alive! Many portraits along these walls are of some of the most famous Danes and Royals who helped shape the face of their country and even lived within the walls of the castle.

Castle Lake

When you first approach the castle, you’ll spot the large lake which surrounds it. It creates a reflective frame around the beautiful red-bricked building. This lake is appropriately called “Castle Lake” and was built in 1560. It served both as a leisure area for the King and his court but also as a moat to keep the castle protected. While Denmark hasn’t seen war in many years, during the time of the castle’s construction, Denmark had frequent battles with other Scandinavian nations, so protection was very important. Today, the area around the lake is accessible to everyone from Hillerød and acts as a public park for the townspeople.

Town Gate

The first thing you’ll see when you arrive at the entrance to the castle is a small bridge in front of a stone archway called the Town Gate. In the centre of the stone archway is a statue of a great lion. He represents one of the three lions which serve as a symbol of Denmark.

Staldgaden

After passing under the gate, you’ll walk down a narrow street towards the castle. The name of this small street is called Staldgaden which translates to housing street as this was where all the servants to the king’s court lived. Walking down this narrow cobblestone pathway, you can see on either side of you two, single-storey buildings. These old complexes were the King’s Stables (to the west) and the Hussars’ Stables (to the east).

At the back of the stables are two matching towers, dubbed the Frederik II’s Round Towers. These were built in 1562 and bear the coat of arms of Frederick II. On the coat of arms is the motto Mein Hoffnung zu Gott allein which means “My hope to God alone“. 

The Gatehouse

As you reach the end of Staldgaden you’ll pass along the S-shaped bridge, over the castle lake, to bring you to the feet of the gatehouse. Christian VI’s Gatehouse was built in 1736. Standing guard, with its copper tiered roof, the Gatehouse is adorned with a huge sandstone relief of the Danish Coat of Arms. The Danish Coat of Arms is made up of three lions with their paws extended, surrounded by nine hearts. These hearts are also called “søblade“, and represent the love for the sea as the Danes were known for their seafaring explorations.

The Neptune Fountain

After you pass through the gatehouse you’ll emerge into the first courtyard. Standing in the center is the commanding Neptune Fountain. The fountain was made in honour of the naval forces in Denmark which were the leading army on the Baltic seas. At the very top of the fountain, we can see the great sea god Neptune. He stands with his hand outstretched, reaching out towards us. In Neptune’s other hand is his great Tritan, at the ready to defend Denmark.

Below him, on pedestals around the central column, are gorgeous rivers and spring deities. Surrounding the lowest level of the fountain are water nymphs. In their hands, they play seashell trumpets. Water spurts forth from these decorations to exalt their great leader, Neptune.

Dutchman Adrian de Vries

The original fountain was designed by Dutchman Adrian de Vries in 1617 but the one that stands here today is actually a replica. This is because the fountain, in its entirety, was stolen by the Swedes during the Swedish Wars. If you’ve ever visited the Royal Summer Palace in Drottningholm, Sweden, you’ll have seen the original fountain as it still stands there today. The current design was made in 1888, funded by Jacob Christian Jacobsen who felt his museum wasn’t complete until the fountain was at least in some part, restored to the palace.

On either side of the Nepture fountain, you’ll see two thin buildings. On the left, we have the Castellan’s lodge and on the right, we have the Chancery Building. A castellan is an appointed official, a governor of a castle and its surrounding territory. The chancery is the building that houses diplomatic missions, such as the Danish embassy. Both of these places were of great importance to the function of the royal family and the government.

Frederiksborg Castle Buildings

Standing in front of the Neptune fountain you’ll have an unobstructed view of the grandeur that is Frederiksborg Castle. Designed in the classic Dutch Renaissance tradition, Frederiksborg is shaped in a quadrangular structure. Dutch Renaissance architecture used red bricks for the exterior and the buildings were topped with stepped gables and towering copper spires.

The four main structures, which make up the quadrangular castle can be seen here from a distance. To the west, we have the Chapel Wing, which was built in 1606. Straight in front of your eyes is the main wing, the King’s Wing, built in 1604. To the east, we have Princess Wing built in 1608. The fourth structure is the clock tower built in 1617 after nine years of construction. These buildings are all joined together by the Terrace Wing to form the great Frederiksborg Castle.

The Terrance Wing

Guarding the entrance to the castle, is a large central doorway that leads into the secondary courtyard. Atop the doorway is a great sandstone work of art carved into the portal. This is the monogram of Christian IV. The large ‘C4’ is chiselled into a circular coin shape, surrounded by rich foliage. On either side of the monogram are two small carvings in the shape of a man and woman. On the left, we have the image of King Christian himself and on the right, is his wife, Anne Catherine of Brandenburg.

Below this area, take a look at the small coat of arms with two unicorns on either side. Unicorns are a part of a cherished Danish myth that says that the throne of Denmark was made of the horns of thousands of unicorns. As such the mythological animal is a strong piece of symbolism to the country.

On either side of the bridge before crossing into the inner courtyard, you’ll find two large sandstone statues of great lions. The lions are reared up on their back legs, with their paws wrapped around a large orb. Orbs are seen frequently in royal symbolism and are thought to represent the globe. The lions with their hands wrapped around it therein representing the Danish power wrapping around the world.

Exterior Statues

On either side of the large doorway, are a series of sumptuously decorated set of sculptures under an ornamented balustrade. Inside the little niches are sculptures of characters from astrology and mythology. The Dutch Renaissance loved these themes and this addition seemed to add to the fairytale nature of the castle. Included in these statues are images of Alexander the Great and Julius Caesar, two amazing historical leaders that the Danish kings wanted to mirror in their own leadership.

Inner Courtyard

Enter through the doorway into the inner courtyard. Staring right at you as you walk inside is the Great Gallery from 1621. This gallery is made up of a series of sculptures across the front of the King’s Wing. These statues are of various Gods and notable historical leaders. They were made by Hans van Steenwinckel the Younger in Amsterdam and brought to Denmark by ship. On the right, under a small copper dome, is the entrance to the castle well, which you can still see behind a wrought iron gate.

Take note of the use of columns here and throughout the castle. Roman and Greek architecture profoundly influenced the Dutch Renaissance as can be seen in the use of columns as adornment. But unlike in Greek architecture, these columns and moulding are richly decorated and bas-reliefs are carved into any flat surface.

Clock Tower

On the left side, we can see the huge, clock tower, marked by golden clockfaces. The clock tower features a clock face on either side of the building, so that no matter where you were in the palace, you could look out and see the time. The dials of the clock end not in a point but in the shape of a star burst and are set against a backdrop of golden sun.

The church is located under the clock tower and it is perhaps for this reason that this tower is so richly decorated. This one wing was the only one to survive the horrific fires and therefore much of the restoration work was done to mirror these original designs. At the top of the clock tower is a golden spire with a horse and crown atop it.

Stained Glass

From the exterior courtyard, look up at the windows, and bay windows, which protrude from the castle walls. Each of these windows is sumptuously decorated with vibrant stained glass, another popular feature of Renaissance architecture. Everything from family crests to royal symbology and historical portraits are represented here in delicate glasswork.

The Rose Dining Room

Enter the central doorway to step for the first time into the interior of the castle. Once you pass through the admission gate, you enter the great Rose Room. This room on the lower level is a recreation of the great Dining Room of King Christian IV. The naming of this room as the “Rose Room” is a hint at the true nature of the goings-on at royal dinner parties. The Latin phrase sub rosa means “under the rose”, and is used in English to denote secrecy or confidentiality. This dining room was where the court could come and be themselves, away from the eyes of the public.

This room was severely damaged during the fire, but luckily, dozens of paintings were made of the interiors of the castle, which were used to recreate these rooms authentically.

Interior Ornamentation

One of my favourite parts of this room is the white stucco ceilings supported by six vaults which rest on free-standing pillars. In the centre of the extremely detailed ceiling are various golden monograms set in a sea of white stucco flowers and vines. The juxtaposition of the white ceiling and dark wood floors is a beautiful piece of architectural contrast.

The wallpaper in this room is especially interesting. It was made of an imitation leather material and covered in gilt to look as rich as possible. Like running your fingers along the spine of an ancient book which covers the entire room.

Throughout the castle, there are little displays featuring clothing from the various time periods that royals inhabited the castle. This gives you an idea of the kind of regalia that would be floating up and down the hallways of the castle when it was a bustling imperial residence.

Staircase

Head through the door marked 2nd floor, which leads you up the winding staircase. This passageway leads guests into the Chapel. As you walk you’ll pass hundreds of shields, emblazoned with the coat of arms of the houses of Denmark’s royal families. They are almost piled one upon the other, making you aware of the legacy that Denmark’s royal family left on the country. There are over 3,500 of these shields in the castle. 400 of them belong to the Order of the Elephant and the remaining 3,100 belong to the Order of Dannebrog. Because the staircases were spared from the fire, all the shields are still originals.

Chapel

Walking into the Chapel, your jaw practically drops right to the floor. The sparkle of the golden ceiling, the bright glimmer of the stained glass windows and the brilliant red pews together combine to create such an awe-inspiring image. The Chapel is one of the few original rooms in the palace, as it was also spared by the great fire that consumed the rest of the building.

Dutch Renaissance

The Chapel was built in 1617, right in the middle of the great Dutch Renaissance. Since the Renaissance was all about reflecting the architectural styles of ancient Rome and Greece, you’ll see here the powerful use of columns, repeated to create a long nave and two-storey gallery. The arches which connect the pillars are richly decorated with grisaille frescos. Grisaille is a painting technique that uses only shades of grey to imitate the looks of sculptures. It was a method of achieving a more luxurious look at half the cost.

The Chapel inside Frederiksborg Castle was for more than just the king’s private prayer roon. After 1648, the chapel was the place where the future kings and queens of Denmark were crowned and anointed. It truly was an almost godly interior.

The roof is the real show stopper here. The six-vaulted stucco ceiling is pouring with golden embellishments and rosettes along the vault ribs bloom like they are in the middle of summer sunlight. In between, there are delicately painted pink cherubs looking down on the faithful below.

Paintings decorate the walls of the upper level. These paintings are from the Danish royal family’s art collection. Each one depicting scenes from the bible, featuring virtues that would befitted feature kings and inspired their good nature.

The Organ

Just below the great golden ceiling, you’ll see the other gem of the Chapel, the great organ. It was built in 1610 by Esajas Compenius and it the oldest organ in Denmark! The organ was a gift to Christian IV in 1617 when the chapel was consecrated. Despite it’s proximity to the great fire, the original wooden pipes were preserved, something which is a rarity to see in organs, since many were modernized with metal pipes.

The organ is still operational and uses a manually driven blower to create a rich sound. It requires two people to play it; one to pump it and the other to play the keys. On either side of the organ are these beautifully carved statues holding the crests of the royal family of Denmark.

On the opposite side of the church, is a new set of organ pipes, installed in 1863. While these might not be as old as the previous ones, they are, in my opinion, much more beautiful. The metal pipes are surrounded in multicoloured carvings. Everywhere you look there is a little angel poking its head out from amongst the pastel-painted decorations.

The Altar

On the lower level of the chapel, the amazing treasures don’t stop. Head up to the front of the church where you’ll find the great altarpiece and pulpit. These were both installed in the early 17th century and are by the famous silversmith Jacob Mores. The altarpiece is made of silver and ebony, with gold touches just to make the entire piece feel like something truly holy.

Coats of Arms

Other than the paintings, on the walls, you’ll see more of the amazing Coats of Arms which we were introduced to on the way up the stairs. As mentioned before these are from the Order of the Danopole and the Order of the Elephant, the two chivalric orders of Denmark.

The Order of the Elephant is the highest rank someone could receive. The Order of the Elephant shields are significantly more detailed, with a blue shashes and commander’s cross in chains painted around the shield. Look closely and you’ll see that the chain links are actually tiny elephants connected together.

Coats of Arms of Heads of State

Coats of arms were also given to foreign heads of state. These were symbolic of great partnerships such as the ones gives to the allies of WWII. They were given to both President Eisenhower and Winston Churchill. I loved studying all the different house crests in the centre of the shields. Each one was so different from the other, and it felt like, through the symbolism therein, you could learn so much about a family you’ve never met.

The Oratory

Continuing along on the upper level of the Chapel, and head under a low archway into the King’s private prayer room, or Oratory. This darkened room was where the king would come to pray, away from the clamour of the court and the public. His chapel is decorated on all sides by amazing paintings from the New Testament. Although the original paintings were lost in the fire, these new ones were inspired by paintings from the time and evoke the idea of what the oratory once would have looked like.

The walls here are carved from rich nutmeg coloured wood, with fantastically detailed decorations in between the panels. In the centre of the room stands a great silver altar, much like the one in the chapel. This was designed by goldsmith Matthäus Wallbaum in 1600 and made prayer in this small room feel all the more grandiose.

My favourite part of this room is once again, the ceiling. Turn your head upwards and spot the various strangely shaped ebony carvings. Some look like blossoming rosettes and others appear to be spikes curving into horn-like shapes. They feel so unique and almost otherworldly, something you might not expect to see in a religious setting.

Valdemarsalen

The Valdemarsalen is a pale yellow room, featuring hunting regalia all over the walls. The room is named after Valdemar I of Denmark who ruled from 1146 to 1182. King Valdemar was a great ruler and it was partly due to him that Denmark saw its rise to power in the medieval period. This room features objects from his life in Denmark in medieval times. Richly carved wood was the most popular item and various pieces of furniture from this period have been collected here to give you an idea of what Valdemar’s quarters might once have looked like.

Otto Bache

This room also features several large scale paintings depicting scenes from the Middle Ages in Denmark. One of the most interesting is ‘The Conspirators Riding Away from Finderup after Murdering King Erik Klipping‘ by Otto Bache. The scene takes place in 1286 but was painted in 1882 and depicted one of the greatest royal murders of Danish history. The nobles of Denmark were angry that King Erik had enforced several policies that they did not approve of. But instead of just opposing them, they did the very medieval thing to do and conspired to murder him. They paid off one of his most trusted companions to keep them informed of the king’s whereabouts, and one night, when he was left unguarded, he was murdered by the noble’s hired assassin. Here they can be seen fleeing after being informed of their plots success.

Audience Chamber Privy Passage

To the left, you’ll see a door marked ‘Audience Chamber‘. Head through this private passage, which stretches out across the lake. The passageway to the Audience Chamber is perhaps even more beautiful than the Audience Chamber itself. The passageway and the Chamber were designed for King Christian V in the 1680s. During this period Baroque was the style which reigned supreme! The baroque period is characterized by light and shadow and most of all, drama! The stucco used throughout the passageway is adorned in plant life, another element of importance to the baroque period. You’ll see scrolling foliage and garlands of flowers everywhere you look.

On the walls of the passage, you’ll see landscape paintings by Josse de Momper. One of the most powerful images is of Venus by Petro Liben. She gestures towards the Audience Chamber as if inviting guests inside. On the ceiling of the Privy Passage you can see four images representing earthly elements; earth, air, fire and water.

The Audience Chamber

The Audience Chamber was designed in 1616. From here you have one of the most amazing views of the lake and surrounding baroque garden. This was the King’s private room, and he wanted the best view of his great palace and grounds. Like the Chapel, this room, being so separated from the rest of the castle, also survived the great fire!

On the walls throughout the room are portraits of Christian V and his family. The largest painting is of the king with his three sons, the future kings of Denmark. In this painting, they are dressed as Roman emperors. This was a popular fashion at the time to compare oneself to other great leaders in history but looks funny to see the almost dressed in costumes.

King Christian V’s motto

On the ceiling, is a great fresco of King Christian V’s motto “With Piety and Justice.” Hanging beneath it, over the small dining table, is a large golden chandelier featuring a jumping stag in the centre. Hunting was a great pastime of Kings and royalty, especially in their country manor homes.

Above the windows are paintings of significant battles, and the king’s triumph during the Scanian War. These images were something future Kings could look up at and be inspired by in moments of doubt or failure.

One of the more exciting parts of this room is a chair located in the corner. This chair might look a little odd, and this is because it’s a chair lift that can go from this room to the floor above, which contains the king’s private apartments, just like a modern-day elevator. The chair lift was installed when the king fell ill and found it challenging to walk up the stairs between the various floors.

Painted in the four corners of the ceiling are four becoming female figures which represent the four corners of the world. At the time Denmark had colonies in each of these places and the paintings were meant to reflect this position of power which Denmark held over the world.

Room 25

From the Audience Chamber, head back through the Valdermarsalen, into Room #25. If you are ever confused as to what room you’re inside, take a look at the numbers above the doorways as they are all marked. Hanging above one of the doorways is a huge family tree from 1570. The piece once hung in the old Sonderborg Castle Chapel but was moved here to decorate Frederiskborg after the fire. The furniture inside this room is all from the 16th century and features Gothic embellishments.

One important thing to note as you explore the rooms is that they are almost entirely lit by daylight. This little detail makes the rooms feel more authentic modern museums with artificial lights. The pieces inside would not have been designed to appear under such fluorescent lighting, and therefore, they look more natural with nothing but the sun to illuminate their beauty.

Room 26

Room #26 features items from the Danish Reformation Era. During this era, Christian III came to power and became head of the Danish church. To mark the importance of this period in history, a Danish translation of the Bible can be seen under a protective glass case which was one of the first of its kind in the Danish language.

Room 27

This pale blue room with a gorgeous star vaulted ceiling is dedicated to the reign of Frederik II. Hanging above the main wood dresser are two portraits, facing each other. This is King Frederik and Queen Sofia, who would have made this room their bedchamber. The rest of the room is filled with additional portraits of the bourgeois who attended court at this time. This was the first moment in history when paintings of non-royal members of the family were allowed to be made, so their depictions are especially important.

From this room, you can easily peek out the window, and see the courtyard below. Looking out the windows of the castle is a great way to orientate yourself as you walk through the maze of rooms inside.

Room 28

Room 28 is the Noble Portraits room. It features a collection of paintings of the nobles of the Danish court. The most famous person on these walls is Tycho Brahe, a famous astronomer from the 1600s. In the centre of the room is a large suit of armour, standing guard in front of the windows. The armour is a copy of that worn by Henrik Rantzau “the learned” who visited Jerusalem and Egypt in 1623 during the Crusades.

Room 29

Room 29 is painted bright blue and the golden paintings set against the walls simply beam against the natural sunlight. This was one of the original living rooms of Christian IV. He lived in the castle beginning in 1596 when he became king at the young age of 19. The first half of his reign was more prosperous than the second half when he was plagued with the disastrous Danish 30 years war.

The large painting above the dresser is of the king himself and surrounding him are images of his children and wives. Christian IV actually had three wives throughout his lifetime. Perhaps looking at his portrait you can decide for yourself if it was his looks or his wealth that drew all these ladies to him.

Room 30

Stepping into Room 30 feels like entering a more regal part of the castle. This room is sumptuously decorated. The painting on the wall depicts events from Christian IV’s life, and the decor inside this room is curated to reflect styles that would have been popularized during his lifetime. Along the wall is a HUGE painting of the coronation of Christian IV in 1596 made in 1887 by Otto Bache. 

The ceiling is covered in frescos. They stretch from end to end and are framed in giltwood carvings which make them even more elaborate and colourful. The frescos on the ceiling feature the story of the ancient legend of Gefion. Gefion was a fantastical goddess who drove an enormous plough driven by mythical oxen. The King of Sweden offered the goddess as much land as she was capable of ploughing in one day and one night in exchange for cultivating the island of Zealand out of Sweden. Here you can see her along with her great oxen.

Nikolaus Siebenhaar

In the corner of the room, behind a beautifully panelled set of windows, is an old astronomical clock from 1644. The clock was made by Nikolaus Siebenhaar from gold plated copper on a carved wooden base. The clock was called a tellurium. The tellurium and shows the time, date, moon phase and the position of the constellations. All of which were of great importance for astronomy and astrology which influenced the king’s decisions during this time.

Room 31

Room 31 is the Leonora Christina living room. The entire room is covered floor to ceiling in dark wood panelling. The room was inspired by the amazing works of Tycho Brahe and was given an astronomical theme. The ceiling is the most impressive feature covered in a painting of the zodiac symbols as they appear in their spacial constellations.

The large painting on the wall of a man and woman with a few small dogs at their feet is Princess Leonora Christina and her husband Corfitz Ulfeldt. Leonora’s husband committed treason against the king, Leonora’s brother. Leonora herself was sent to prison by her brother for her aid in the attempted plot.

Leonora was imprisoned in the Blue Tower in Copenhagen for 22 years. When she was finally released from captivity, she wrote a series of poems on an altar cloth about her life in prison, the true nature of royal life and all the scandals she was privy to while living in the castle—basically creating the first “exposed” article of all time. You can still see this piece of history on display here today.

Room 32

A collection of minature portraits occupies the corner tower room on this floor. These adorable cameos and tiny portraits were often worn by members of the court to show their allegiance to individual members of the royal family. This was of particular significance if one royal was thought to be attempting to oust the next. And if you wanted to show your support of one royal over another casually, this was a subtle way of doing it.

Room 34

From the minature portrait room, head back to room 30 and head upstairs to Room 34. This hallway leads you through to the second floor of the castle. The walls of the hallways here are littered in paintings. The most impressive of which is the ‘Storm of Copenhagen in 1659‘ by F.C Lund. It features the night that Copenhagen was attacked by the Swedes. As the siege wore on, one of the most famous quotes from the king’s as he defended the city was “I will die in my nest“. The Swedes were defeated and suffered over 500 deaths whereas the Danes managed to defend their city fiercely and only lost 14 brave men.

Room 35

Walking through these long hallways, turn into the grand bedroom of Frederik III in Room 35. The furniture in this room is all from the 1600s during the reign of Frederik III. Take special care to study the four-poster bed in the middle of the room. It’s incredible to see how small these beds were despite being for the absolute monarchs of the time. If you look closely at the crushed red velvet bedding, you’ll see how the head of the bed is raised slightly, since it was the custom at the time to sleep with your head above your body. The bedposts are giving particular attention with carvings of kings and queens as well as mythical creatures inlaid into the wood.

This room features the most amazing wood carvings. The ceiling itself is absolutely covered in carved panels. The same strange blossoming rosettes from the oratory can be seen here paired with brightly painted circular panels.

Room 36

Room 36 features more objects from the time of King Frederick III and Queen Sofia. The style of architecture and decor inside is of the baroque style. It is lavish and bordering on pompous. The furniture throughout the room is all exquisitely created from Germany, the Netherlands and France as the Danes. The reason the furniture was not locally made was that during the reign of Frederick III, trading across Europe had started to open up making the exchange of goods and materials more popular and fashionable. “Shop local” wasn’t nearly the trend in the 1600s. The furniture is even inlaid with pieces of ebony and ivory, a way of showing off wealth in every inch of the castle.

Along the walls in this room are portraits of the men who supported and aided the king in the 1600s. There were both noblemen and academics who helped lead the realm into glory.

On the ceiling of the room is a grandiose painting of Sol. Sol is the Nordic sun goddess who travels through the sky in a chariot pulled by two great horses. Sol is responsible for imparting everlasting life and is thought to have created the spark of life on earth.

The Angel’s Room

Room 37 is also called the Angel’s Room and walking in, there is no doubt as to why. It feels truly otherworldly. When Frederick III died, queen Sofia continued to live here in her widowhood. She took it upon herself to pour her grief into the decoration of the castle. She never stopped adding decorations and embellishments until her own death. This room was badly damaged in the fire but was restored to its former glory in 1859.

The Angel’s Room was often used for both huge banquets and small family dinners. Displayed in the centre of the room is a model of the dining table complete with plastic moulds of the meals and foods which the court and royal family would have eaten in the 17th century.

Great Ceiling

The great ceiling is painted with motifs inspired by the Doge’s Palace in Venice. The paintings in the centre are of King Frederick III on the throne surrounded by the four pillars of the Danish kingdom; the nobility, the clergy, the citizens and the peasantry. In the other paintings, are allegories of war and peace.

The room display two huge paintings of two of the most important events in Fredericks III’s reign. One of the paintings features the moment he inherited Copenhagen’s Royal Palace. After the Carl Gustav wars, Frederik III had a momentous town meeting in Copenhagen to solve the financial problems the country was facing after the war. The result of this meeting was the creation of absolute monarchy and the hereditary kingdom of Denmark.

Nyborg Fjord

The second painting features the naval commander Peder Bredal when he freed his frozen vessels out of Nyborg Fjord. The painting was made by Carl Neumann in 1883. Johan Carl Neumann was one of the most famous Danish marine painters. He had a way of capturing those moments at sea which helped shape the nation. If Bredal would not have been able to free his ships from the ice, the soldiers would have been both lost at sea during the tough winter and they would not have been able to join the forces on land to defend their kingdom.

A small set of stairs leads you from this room into the Great Hall. On either side of the archway leading up to the Great Hall are a set of winged creatures, beckoning you inside.

The Great Hall

The Great Hall was built for King Christian IV but was destroyed in the great fire. Since this room was such a showstopper there was a plethora of paintings and drawings done of the space used to faithfully recreate it. King Christian ruled Denmark from 1588 to 1648. His 59-year reign is the longest of Danish and of Scandinavian monarchs. Despite the wealth displayed in this room, during his reign, he instigated various wars that almost bankrupted the country.

This fairytale-inspired room was used for balls throughout Christians’ reign. The room is set directly above the Chapel and has the same dimensions as it as well. The Hall is also known as the ‘Hall of Knights‘ as the king would often host galas for members of his royal order here.

Great Hall Fireplace

On the side of the room is what looks like an ebony coloured canopy but is actually the great black marble fireplace. The actual fireplace is hidden behind a set of tapestries as it helps keeps the cold out. Inlaid on the black marble are beautiful scenes made from panels of pure silver. I can only imagine how gorgeous the silver would have looked in the light of the fire.

When I visited the castle, there were very few people in the palace. But as I wandered around the empty hall, a small group of school children came inside and began to dance in the huge empty room. They were so sweet and made me imagine what this room might have looked like filled with courtly men and women in their finery, dancing the night away. The rich marble floor beneath their feet glimmering under the chandeliers and their laughter brought the room to life!

From looking down at the floor, take your eyes upwards to the great ceiling carvings. The ceiling was recreated based on artists’ sketches before the fire. The ceiling looks like a treasure chest, piled high with golden coins and brightly coloured jewels.

Every inch, every centimetre of the ceiling is embellished in carvings and paintings. Angels flit about among orange trees, crowned rosettes, and beautiful swirling fillagree. Scenes set into the ceiling represented the various crafts of the Danish people, such as the paper mill, the printing press, and even the watchmaker. Surrounding these scenes are allegories of God’s attributes. A balance between the godly and the earthly delights.

Great Hall Tapestries

One of the most important pieces of art in the hall are woven tapestries. The tapestries depict the life of Christian IV and are copies of original tapestries found outside the castle, having been saved from the fires. The tapestries were made specifically for the museum to restore the look of the Great Hall.

Facing in on the hall are portraits of the members of the House of Glücksburg. The house of Glücksburg has been the Danish Royal Household since Christian IX in 1863. The current reigning queen, Margaret, is from their dynasty and keeps her family’s legacy alive today.

At the front of the room, under the most enormous golden chandelier, is the throne and king’s table. The throne is covered by a rich red velvet canopy with golden embroidery depicting Christian IX’s Danish monogram.

Gothic Globe Room

From the Great Hall, head back into the Angels Room and towards Room 39, which is located in the corner tower. This room also called the Gottorpske Himmelglobus or Gothic Globes room. The golden globe in the centre of the room was made for Frederik III. This celestial globe depicts the world view of Nicolaus Copernicus. Nicolaus Copernicus was a Renaissance-era mathematician and astronomer, who formulated a model of the universe that placed the Sun rather than Earth in the center o the universe. The entire piece took over three years to be completed in 1657.

Astronomical Designs

The sky is represented around the exterior and inside the sphere are tiny gold balls which are the earth and, the moon. The other planets are also represented by smaller silver balls inside. The sun is in the centre of all of this, represented by a large brass ball. Around the exterior of the sphere are these beautiful depictions of the zodiac symbols surrounded by astronomical constellations. But the piece is not just an art exhibit, each of the objects moves based on the 24-hour clock. The room also features portraits of court mathematicians, astronomers, librarians and the heads of the Art Chambers.

While the ceiling here is pure white, the stucco designs were made to reflect the presence of the celestial globe and also feature images of the zodiac symbols.

Room 40

Head back to Room 36 and continue from here to Room 40. In this room was have items from Christian V’s reign from 1670 to 1699. Christian V was the first king who was anointed in the palace. In the center of the room is a book with the page opened to the King’s Act of 1665 which was the legal basis upon which the Danish Monarchy was formed.

On the left side of the wall is a large portrait featuring Christian V in his fancy dress. Seeing his face both here and throughout the castle always makes me feel like he’s still watching over the palace even hundreds of years after his death.

This room also has one of the best view of the castle layout and baroque gardens outside.

Room 41

Room 41 features statesmen and artists from Christian V’s reign. Among them were the naval hero Niels Juel, baroque poet Thomas Kingo and merchant turned chancellor, Peder Schumacher.

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Room 42

Room 42 marks the transition between the 1600s and the 1700s. This period was marked by the Baroque style. Baroque and Rococo are my two favourite stylistic periods as they are synonymous with ostentatiousness and grandeur. Instead of wallpaper decorating the walls, they were covered in huge woven tapestries. These tapestries depicted scenes of Alexander the Great entering Babylon and the battle of the Persian kings. They were fantastical depictions of the greatest rulers from history. The tapestries were made in Louis XIV’s factory in Paris and were made by the very best weavers around the world.

The beautifully carved and upholstered canopy bed was made in Paris around 1724. They called this style of bed a “parade bed”. It was made for Christian V when he married Christine Catherine von Holstein in 1724. You can see their monograms, CDS and CCH, carved into the bedframe. My very favourite part of this bed is the silver fireguard which sits in front of the bedroom to protect it from the sparks of the fireplace. It’s shaped into a heart and feels like it warms the room, even without a fire.

Room 43

Room 43 is centred around the large painting of King Frederick IV. Frederick IV reigned from 1699 to 1730. Frederick didn’t have the best time ruling the kingdom. During his reign, Copenhagen was struck with both the great plague of 1711 and the great fire of 1728, which destroyed most of the capital. Wanting to escape Copenhagen, Frederick spent much of his time building onto Frederickborg Palace. While Frederick wasn’t much of an academic, he loved art and architecture and it is perhaps for this reason that the castle became so magnificent. Chinese imports were becoming all the rage in this time and many of these oriental objects can be seen in this room.

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Room 44

Head into the corner tower where you’ll find room 44. Here you’ll find portraits of a number of prominent figures of Frederik’s IV’s reign. But what is most interesting to study in this room is the golden leather wallpaper which has been applied to the walls. This leather wallpaper appears throughout the castle but is most notable here both for its size and grandeur.

Room 46 – The Princess Wing

A long pastel pink hallway runs down this side of the castle, with various rooms extending off of it. This area of the castle is called the ‘Princess Wing‘. Most of the objects and paintings in this area are from the reign of Frederik IV and Christian VI from the first half of the 18th century. The Rococo style began in France in the 1730s as a reaction against the more formal and geometric Style of Louis XIV. Rococo dressers line the hallway, marked by their curves and sculptural moulding.

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Room 47

The pale blue room decorated with a myriad of the golden frames is from the time of Christian VI who ruled from 1730 to 1746. Various paintings in this room feature Queen Sofia Magdalene and her children.

In addition to the series of paintings, there are a set of chairs in here which are original from the court of Christian VI. There is also a cupboard containing an original Meissen porcelain collection. Meissen porcelain was one of the most popular items to show off your status at the time. Take note of the punch bowl in the shape of a bishop’s hat made in Copenhagen.

Room 48

Continue along through the rooms and head into Room 48. This light rose coloured room contains more objects from the 18th century. Two portraits of Frederick V by C.G. Pilo cover the walls. Pilo was responsible for most of the rococo designs throughout the castle during this period. He was the king’s personal stylist and interior decorator.

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The furniture in here is much lighter than in previous generations. Patterns are no less opulent but the subtle tones make it feel less busy. There is definitely an air of elegance here over opulence here.

Room 50

Room 50 contains a portrait of a rather turbulent figure in the royal household. During Christian VII‘s reign his wife was having an affair with a man named Struensee. Struensee was the king’s doctor, in addition to being the lover of the queen. Struensee used his influence over the king to control the kingdom as he saw fit. Finally, when the King discovered this treachery he had the doctor executed for crimes against his majesty. His portrait still hangs in the castle, perhaps as a reminder to those who might attempt to do the same.

Room 52

Room 52 features dignified furniture in the style of Louis XVI. The canopy sofa with a gold plate actually pulls out to be a double bed. Proves how the castle was starting to modernize with the times. The tableware in here is another gorgeous example of the style of Rococo flatware with botanical imagery all over it which was a popular icon on the style.

Room 54

Exiting back into the hallway, you’ll see that the walls have changed colours from the pastel blush pink, to mustard yellow. Along the walls are vintage pieces of furniture from the 1800s. But the most impressive part of this corridor is the gold plated ceiling. Inlaid with images of roman leaders, they look almost like giant coins glued onto the ceiling.

Room 55

Room 55 is one of the plainer coloured rooms but the sheer number of paintings on the wall makes it no less interesting. On the wall opposite window, are two grand pictures of the Battle of Copenhagen in 1801, depicting the vanquished Danish fleet. Despite this great military loss, the early 1800s were a boom time for the Danes. It was a golden age for art, literature, and science. Portraits on the wall reflect the various men and some women who helped shape this golden age. In the room is a set of Danish Imperial living room furniture, covered in rich red leather, which belonged to the household of Frederick VI.

Room 57, the Gable Room

The brightly painted red room in the back of the Princess Wing is called the Gable Room. This room is full of portraits of poets and artists from the Danish Golden Age. You’ll find pictures of actress Johanne Luise Heiberg, poet H.C. Andersen, and W. Marstrand. This change in who is portrayed in castle portraits, from the royals to portraits of celebrities, shows the shift in power dynamics during this time. The painting of actress Johanne Luise Heiberg was commissioned by her husband Johan Ludvig Heiberg. It was painted in the middle of the crisis that would lead to their eventual breakup. Her stern face clearly reflects her cross feeling about sitting for the portrait with a man she no longer was the biggest fan of.

The chandelier in the center of the room is one of the most impressive designs, with large round orbs hanging from it, it looks almost like a mythical fruit tree. It’s a big departure from the traditional chandelier designs throughout the rest of the castle and is another example of the change in both power and design during this era.

Room 58

In the last room, Room 58, you can visit a bust of the great linguist Rasmus Kristian Rask. Rask travelled the world studying Icelandic grammar and Oriental languages and is considered one of the founders of modern linguistics. Beside the statue of Rask is a stately telescope design from the mid-1800s. It was once used by Johan Ludvig Heiberg when he visited the palace.

Room 61

Take the stairs down to Room 61 back on the 1st floor. This room is commanded by a huge painting of the Constitutional Assembly from October 1484. This is when the king gave up his monarchical powers and when the first democratic election in Denmark took place. In this painting, you can see famous politicians from Danish history.

The ceiling in this room is once more sumptuously decorated with wood carvings and paintings of naval battles inlaid in the center.

Room 63

Room 63 is dedicated to the Three Year War which raged from 1848-1850. Denmark was fighting against the Germans, who had taken their land to the south. Two large paintings on the wall are of the greatest heroes of this war which lead Denmark to victory.

The ceiling styles in this era are definitely something to behold, as they appear to be an art gallery all unto themselves.

Room 64

Room 64 was actually a part of the museum created for not crown royalty, but for the great poet Adam Oehlenschlager. On the 100th anniversary of his death, the museum collected objects and paintings of the great Nordic poet and dedicated this room to his memory.

Room 65

Room 65 features images from the war of 1864. Prussia and Austria both attacked Denmark during this time. The war ended only when Denmark agreed to hand over parts of their land to Austria but managed to hold onto the small island of Ærø, which remained Danish. Ærø is my favourite spot in Denmark so I can see why that place would have been so important for them to hold onto.

The ceiling in this room features a large central painting depicting Jupiter and Juno. Juno and Jupiter are husband and wife and considered to be the King and Queen of the gods. They are often seen in Royal residences, as the royals are thought to be their earthly counterparts. Juno is the goddess of marriage, and childbirth and Jupiter was the god of the sky and thunder.

Room 66

This room is dedicated to the businessmen of the 19th century who helped move the Danish economy along. Agriculture, the dairy industry, shipyards, railways and breweries were booming and the various men in this room had a large part in their success.

Room 67

In this room, we see images of the Glucksborg families once more. Upon the death of Frederick VII in 1863, the throne passed to Christian IX who was a member of the Glucksborg family, and this was when their reign would commence. The furniture in this room is the most modern, all coming from the 19th and 20th centuries.

Room 68

The last room to study before heading outside is Room 68, which is dedicated to the memory of Brygger Jacobsen, who founded the museum which is now Fredericksborg Palace. Brygger Jacobsen, continued the legacy of his father’s brewer, Carlsberg Brewery, which is still to this day one of the most popular beers not only in Denmark but around the world.

Mønttårn tower

After you’ve finished touring the castle, head outside, around the castle over towards the baroque gardens. To enter the gardens you’ll enter through the Mønttårn tower, which contains the Audience we saw inside. This part of the castle was built in 1616 in high-renaissance style.

Study the swinging gables and gorgeous bay windows. The exterior is decorated in sculptures of Venus and Mars and musicians.

Baroque Gardens

Walk underneath the archway and across the stone bridge towards the Baroque gardens. The baroque gardens which surround the castle are designed in the typical style of the age. It was created by architect J. C. Krieger in 1725. Baroque gardens during this time were designed in a symmetrical pattern and used hedges and bushes to create an outer structure.

Within the lower portion of the gardens, you’ll find the hedges are carved into unique patterns which form of the Royal monograms. These monograms are of Frederik IV, Frederik V, Christian VI and Margrethe II. These are all the monarchs who ruled within the walls of this castle.

Toward the far end of the garden, off to the left is a series of small lakes, a bathhouse and an English style garden. This is also sometimes called the Romantic garden as it presents the uncurated and raw beauty of nature in contrast to the highly manicured and planned structure of the baroque garden.

The Little Ferry

After finishing wandering the incredible gardens, head over to the ferry dock to catch a ride around the castle lake. The ferry captains are the most charming old men and their cheerful banter was one of the best parts of the journey on the ferry.

The trip across the lake takes 30 minutes and costs DKK 30 ($4.50 USD) for adults and DKK 10 ($1.50 USD) for children. The last ferry departs the castle at 5 pm in the summer and 4 pm in the autumn so be sure to catch it before then. In the wintertime, the ferry is closed since the lake often freezes over.

Boating away from the castle, you have the most incredible view of the entire palace from on the water. The peaceful lull of the waves and the picturesque red brick against the bright blue sky is almost so beautiful its hard to imagine that this place is real and not just a fairytale.

This brings us to the end of our tour! The ferry boat will let you off on the other side of the lake, where you can wander around the village or head back to the train station to catch the train back to Copenhagen. While watching, the countryside fade back into the city, think back to all the wondrous things we saw at the Palace. What was your favourite room or treasure you discovered? Let me know if you’ve ever visited Frederiskborg Castle or what you’re most looking forward to seeing on your first visit!

Happy Travel Adventurers

The post Discover Denmark’s Amazing Hidden Gem: A Guide to Frederiksborg Castle, the Best Day Trip from Copenhagen first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

How to Get There

Burano is located off the main island of Venice. To get there you can hop on the Vaporetto line #12. This ferry runs directly from the San Zaccaria dock near St. Mark’s square. The journey takes around 45 minutes and costs €6.50 per person. But if you bought a multi-day travel card this will be included so the trip won’t cost you a thing!

When to Go

This island gets mobbed by tourists! Before Instagram, this island was a peaceful escape from Venice, and often overlooked in favour of Murano‘s famous glass island. But these days it gets really busy. But let’s face it, we’re all going there for the same reason so you kinda have to take the tourists with a grain of salt. The best way to avoid the crowds is to go super early in the morning. The sunrise from the ferry over the water on your journey to Burano is gorgeous and a great reward for early risers.

History of Burano

Much like the citizens of Venice, the people who would begin to inhabit the island of Burano came here to escape the Barbarian invasions. The island was a refuge in the lagoon, protected from the attacks coming in from the Adriatic Sea. The name “Burano” was taken from the words “Porta Boreana”, which meant northern door of the city.

The island was inhabited mainly by poor fishermen and therefore there never were too many fantastical palazzos constructed here. Even when the lace trade was at the height of its popularity, lace workers were heavily underpaid so there continued not to be a huge amount of wealth coming into this city. But what you’re left with is an authentically preserved town that encapsulates the way everyday Italians would have lived hundreds of years ago.

Walking Tour | Start the Ferry Dock

After disembarking the Vaporetto you are immediately struck by how different this island is to Venice. The green grass which greets you upon disembarking is one of the most significant differences as the grass is almost impossible to find in Venice. Large trees seem to swell and protect pedestrians sitting on the benches below. People are mulling about as their every day begins, fishermen loading nets into their boats along the shore and women out for their brisk morning walk.

Remigio Barbaro Sculpture

In front of the ferry dock is a bronze sculpture of a naked woman with her arms behind her head, crying out as if in distress. Many fishermen who went out to sea would have lost their lives over the years and this woman represents their collective grief. The statue was made by Remigio Barbaro, a local Burano sculpture who is one of the most famous artists who lived on the island.

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Strada di Corte Comare

Head westwards until you reach the Strada di Corte Comare. Turn up this street and as you take your first steps, you’ll be immediately amazed at the wonderfully colourful houses all around. I couldn’t stop saying “wow” as I passed one brightly houses to another and the city started to weave its magical spell around me.

Colourful Houses of Burano

Walking along this street, imagine how fisherman, long before the advent of electricity or gas lightning would have found their way home during the misty winters that Burano was famous for. Sounds almost impossible right? White houses would simply disappear into the darkness. So, in order to see their homes from far away, fisherman began painting them these bright, sometimes only neon, colours.  

The typical Burano home is pretty narrow and is only two or three floors tall. The ground level is where you’d find the kitchen and toilets. The upper floors would be where the bedrooms would be kept, to prevent the beds from getting wet during the rainy season.

Colour Rules

But these houses aren’t just painted willy-nilly. Homeowners in Burano must write to the city council if they want to paint their house a different colour. The government will assess the area and let you know what colours are deemed ok for this area. I assume this is to prevent too many of the same coloured houses being painted in one area. Therefore making it more confusing for residences to find their home.

Supermarket Stop

When you approach the first opportunity to turn left, head down this side street until you reach the Supermarket on Via San Mauro. Stop in at this grocery store to pick up breakfast essentials. A picnic in one of Burano’s amazing parks is even better than sitting in a cafe. Grab some cheese, bread, and a beverage to enjoy once we reach the perfect little picnic spot!

Panificio Pasticceria Garbo

If you’d like a sweet treat for breakfast then be sure to stop in at Panificio Pasticceria Garbo. This bakery has been owned by three generations of bakers and sells all the amazing Italian treats you need to have a wonderful start to the morning.

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Corte Comare

Walk south along the Via San Mauro until you reach the large square called the Corte Comare at the end of the street. This is a down to earth fisherman’s square, where for centuries people have been meeting to discuss the news of the day and catch up with friends.

In this square take notice of the various doorways facing the square. The doorways and window sills in Burano are some of the most interesting anywhere in the world. In Burano, most people leave their doors open to help with air circulation. To keep the flies out, a large sheet is hung over the doorway. I love all the different colour combinations you’ll see all over the island.

There is a small park nestled on the south-east corner of the Corte Comare. Here you can sit on the grass and enjoy a great view of the waterfront. Watch the boats chug up and down the lagoon, bringing in their catch of the day!

Fondamenta di Cavanella

After finishing your breakfast, walk down the Fondamenta di Cavanella towards the first bridge crossing on your right. These bridges are usually pretty packed with tourists but if you’ve taken my advice and come early in the morning you’ll have it more to yourself.

Pescaria Vecia

Cross over the bridge and walk along the parallel street to the one we just came from, Fondamenta di Cao Moleca. At the end of the street is an old brick structure with a simple red tile roof. This was once the old Pescaria Vecia, or Fish Market. Fishermen have lived and worked in Burano since the moment they came to these shores. There were no areas where the land was fertile enough for farming so fishing was an essential source of food.

Early fishermen used nets and harpoons to catch the fish and eventually also used “chebe” or cages. The cages would be used to catch bottom-feeding shellfish like crabs. Fishermen could trader fish for goods like wood and wine. It was the currency of the day in Burano. Today, catching fish is still one of the main occupations on Burano. There are over 450 different groups of fisherpeople who bring fresh seafood into the Rialto market and Venetian restaurants every day!

Via Giudecca #101

Backtrack back to the bridge and this time continues along Via Giudecca until you reach house #101. On the facade of the house is a bit of tile work which displays a beautiful quote about the colourful island. The words in Italian translates into; “Color is like music. It uses shorter ways to come to our senses to, wake our emotions.”

Fondamenta della Pescheria

Cross the bridge and walk west along the Fondamenta della Pescheria. This is one of the busiest areas but the houses along here are amazing.  As you walk along, stop for a minute at the Campo della Pescheria. This is another one of the former outdoor fish markets. This was where the market was moved after a huge storm destroyed the previous one. Today the square is used on most days of the week as a pop-up market where local artisans come to sell their wares.

Leaning Tower of Burano

Standing in the square you have a gorgeous view of the famous leaning tower of Burano! The tower is apart of the church of San Martino and was built in the 17th century. The shifting ground beneath the island has resulted in the tower starting to lean over the years. Some maintenance work was carried out in 1703 but the issue has yet to be remedied. 

Consider popping your head up a few sidestreets as you go. This is a great way to get away from the crowds and this narrow streets are always filled with such character.

Via Baldassarre Galuppi

Walk down the Campiello dei Squeri, which turns into the Calle Mastelletti. This will lead you over to the Via Baldassarre Galuppi. This street is definitely the most touristy area in Burano. But the history of the street is important. Baldassare Galuppi, for whom the street is named, was one of Italy’s most important composers. He was dubbed “Il Buranello” to honour his home in Burano.

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Galuppi loved music from the time he was born. His father was a mere barber but loved to play the violin in his spare time. Galuppi was surrounded by music as a child and inspired him to pursue this passion. Galuppi performed his first opera in Venice where he had been working as an organist. His first Opera performance was an utter failure, with Galuppi being booed off the organ by the audience. But he didn’t let one failure stop him and continued to practice and compose. Eventually, he started to be mentored by composer Antonio Lotti who would shape the rest of his career. Galuppi gained more and more success and became so famous he would preform his operas inside the great St Mark’s Basilica. 

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Da Primo

As its getting close to lunchtime, we better stop for something to eat. Eating a touch earlier or later in the day is a great way to avoid large crowds or waiting in line. Although many restaurants along this street are geared towards tourists, Da Primo is a worthy exception. Here you can eat like a local! One of the most famous dishes in Burano is the “risotto de gò” which is rice cooked in a rich fish broth. The fish broth is made from the “goby” fish local to the lagoons around Burano.

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Dalla Lidia Merletti d’Arte

After all that food it’s time to walk those calories with a little bit of shopping. Lace is what first made this island famous. The practice is kept alive today, mainly by the tourism industry. One of the best shops to find traditionally made lace is Dalla Lidia Merletti d’Arte which is the oldest lace shop in Burano. The shop sells handmade lace in the form of linens, tablecloths, handkerchief, bedspread, nightgowns and most adorably, children’s baptism gowns.

The woman who runs the shop is the fifth generation of women to work here. She is wonderfully passionate about the craft and even if there to demonstrate how this lace is made. And while you can shop around for cheaper lace, you’re likely going to find it’s not handmade but machine made in China. It’s really worth splashing out for the real thing, and the prices at Dalla Lidia Merletti d’Arte are extremely reasonable! 

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Pasticceria Costantini

Walk up the street and turn to your right to grab a sweet treat for dessert. Pasticceria Costantini specializes in Burano’s local delight; the “Bussolà“. The bussolà of Burano is an “s” shaped cookie. These hard cookies were first made by the fishermen’s wives for times when the fishermen were out on long journeys. While the traditional cookie is made with lemon, rum and vanilla, you can find them with chocolate as well. They are a “must-eat” item to have while on the island!

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Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi

Cookies in hand, walk over to the center of the Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi. This square is dedicated Baldassare Galuppi. In the middle of the Piazza, there is a monument in his honour, made by another Buranello, the sculptor Remigio Barbaro. 

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Istrian Stone Well

Also in the center of the square is a large, Istrian stone well. This well dates all the way back to 500 BC! The well still to this day supplies water to the nearby water fountain.

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San Martino

Dominating the square is the large San Martino church. This 16th-century, Roman Catholic church remains vastly unchanged from the day it was first built. While the exterior isn’t much to marvel at, take a quick peek inside. The interior features a large marble sarcophagus. Inside it is said that the remains of all island’s patron saints are laid to rest.

The Myth of the Fisherman

The myths goes that in the year 1000, a few fishermen in Burano saw a large marble coffin floating out in the water. Dozens of men tried to move it but none could get it to budge. Then four children came forward. The fisherman laughed at them at first but were shocked when the children moved it without almost any effort. It is said that the purity of the children was what allowed them to move these holy relics.

Also, keep your eyes open while inside for a plaque on the wall. This plaque is dedicated to the eight people who lost their lives when a huge storm blew the old Fish Market we saw previously. The storm destroyed 240 houses and killed these eight fishermen. It was one of the deadliest events on the island.

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Lace Museum

Opposite the church is the old Burano Lace School, whis is now the Lace Museum. This was where young girls were trained in the art of lace-making. The school was open from 1872 to 1970. After it closed down to teachings, it was transformed into a museum that provides visitors with a great introduction to the art of lace-making and its history on the island.

History of Lace in Burano

For more than 300 years, the island of Burano was known better as the “island of lace“. According to long-told story, a sailor was out at sea and wanted to bring home a present for the girl he was in love with. While fishing, he found a beautiful plant which he called the trina delle sirene or mermaid’s lace and brought it home to her. She was enamoured with the gift and wanted to immortalize it forever. So she set to recreating the plant in fine threads. And that’s how lacework was born… or at least that’s their story.

Lacemakers

The first lacemakers in Burano were women who worked in convents. The lace was exclusively made for the church to be used to decorate their vestments and altar cloths. These pieces of lacework were almost impossibly delicate, made with gossamer fine threads stitched together to form intricate patterns. Some of the women who made this lace would have spent their entire lives with their needle and thread, as women, especially in convents, were allowed to do little more than sewing. Spinsters and orphans would often be sent to a convent and find themselves making lace for the rest of their lives.

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As lacework broke out of just being made for the church, lace guilds started to pop up all over Burano. The guilds were put in place to control the production. On this outlying island, away from the high society in Venice, merchants could get away with paying low wages to the women in these guilds. The 17th century was the heyday for lacework in Burano. It was seen as the very best lacework to be found anywhere in the world. They called it punto in aria or “points in the air” because of the almost impossibly fine formation of the threads, like that of a spider.

Lace as Status

Lacework was seen as a high-status symbol, and worn by many rich aristocrats. The finer the lacework, the more expensive the cost, and therefore the more you showed off. Much of this lacework was worn in portraits painted of noblemen, immortalizing the lace forever. Despite the high price of lace, the actual women who made these pieces never became wealthy themselves as most of the money went straight into the pockets of the merchants. The merchants lived in luxurious palaces in Venice, and the poor women of Burano who sometimes went blind from this difficult work continued living in poverty on the island.

Burano Lace Guilds

In the 18th century, the tradition of lacework began to lose popularity. Its association with noblemen was reviled by the Revolutionaries of the time. Merchants abandoned the guilds and women on Burano. But the tradition never really was abandoned by the lacemakers themselves. They continued to make lace on the island for themselves and passed down the skills to their children. Bobbin lace was invented by these new generations, a slightly faster way of making lace. Today on the streets of Burano you can still watch mothers and grandmothers making lace the same way it was done hundreds of years ago. Thanks to the tourist trade, this tradition lives on.

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Merletti dalla Olga

After learning more about lacework, let’s visit another lace shop. Lace by Olga, or Merletti dalla Olga, specializes in turning lace into real works of art. One of my favourite things about this shop are the framed pieces of lace which cover the rich red walls. Even if you aren’t into wearing lace, you can find something that will look great on your walls. These beautiful framed pieces of lace, in the shapes of smaller items like butterflies or Saint icons cost between 12 and 18 euros which is really affordable and a great souvenir!

Terranova’s Marble Bridge

Crossing over the Terranova’s Marble Bridge, turn around. The view from the bridge or just behind the bridge has the most amazing panorama out towards the church of San Martino. Its framed on either side by the adorable multi-coloured houses iconic of this island.

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House of Remigio Barbaro

Walk along the Calle Brolli which encircles the edge of the island. Walking along the water’s edge, you’ll come upon a brick house with a large forest in the yard (marked on the map). This is the house of artist Remigio Barbaro. Remigio Barbaro was born in Burano in 1911 and spent his event life here. He is greatly admired by the residents of the city for his beautiful sculptural works. He had wished for his house to be turned into a museum after his death but construction on the house has only continued and no museum has been opened yet. Hopefully, it will open one day but until then you can at least admire the beautiful location where the artists worked.

Fondamenta di Terranova

Cut down the side street after passing the Remigio Barbaro House and walk north along Fondamenta di Terranova. I love this stretch of sidewalk. This part of the city is very far away from the tourist hub and here you’ll almost always find locals on their way to get their shopping or just out for a walk. There is a real sense of peace here and the island suddenly feels less just like a tourist Disneyland and more like a real place.

Ponte della Vigna

I think the Ponte della Vigna is my favourite of all the bridges on the island. Because it’s so quiet here and less packed with tourists the bridge has a truly romantic quality to it. Vigna means vineyards in Italian as there once was a small grove of grape trees nearby. The grapes were harvested by the convents on the island to produce their altar wine.

Laundry

Make your way from the bridge, west along with the Corte Romano Barbaro, then north up Corte del Pistro. These side streets are a photographers dream. They are almost devoid of tourists and they are also so picturesque. Laundry hangs outside the houses and across the streets, blowing in the wind. Just an idyllic scene in the middle of Burano.

Casa Bepi

Continue until you reach the unmissable Casa de Bepi. The house is one of those famous facades you’ll see plastered on dozens of postcards in the city. While all the other houses in Burano are painted one solid colour, Bepi’s was painted with a variety of bright colours in geometric shapes. Bepi was a real man who lived here who would entertain local children with his brightly coloured drawing. He continued adding to his house every day until his death. Today the city ensures the facade remains just as colourful as the day it was painted to keep the memories of Bepi alive.

Fondamenta S. Mauro Bridge

Walking over the Fondamenta S. Mauro Bridge, look out east on the bridge towards the canal. The bend in the waterway here with the little boats lining the edge of the canal makes for a beautiful picture. This street is usually pretty empty making it look all the more scenic.

La Buranella

While there are dozens of cheesy souvenir shops in Burano, La Buranella is one of the only truly amazing shops which sells one-of-a-kind gifts. La Buranella specializes in colourful, hand made paintings of Burano landscapes. The man who paints them is also the owner of the shop and will happily chat with you about his amazing creations. There are items here for as little as 5 euros but made by someone right in the heart of Burano and not made in China. One of the best places to end out your day.

This brings us to the end of our tour. If you find the ferry dock busy with tourists, head over the island of Mazzorbo (just across the bridge). This is a great place to wander around and kill some times while taking in some beautiful green spaces.

Burano is such a vibrant and exciting place and well worth the mere 45-minute journey from Venice. If you bring your own food and skip the museum, the trip will cost you nothing more than the ferry ticket price. And if you’ve already purchased a multi-day travel card that’s covered too! I wish I could return here all the time when I’m feeling creatively drained as this colourful island just awakens all your senses and will revive anyone’s spirit. What are you most looking forward to seeing in Burano? Is it the lace or the houses? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Discover the Colorful Canals of Burano: Your Complete Guide to Exploring this Charming Fishing Village in Venice first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Mexican historical sites like Chichén Itzá and Tulum are much more expensive to visit. In addition to this, they feel more like a tourist-created destination, whereas Teotihuacán feels more laid bare and more natural. And as such, you truly feel like an explorer when visiting this place. But with this lack of curation comes a lack of information when you’re alone. Hopefully, this in-depth blog post provides a great introduction and guide through this incredible place.

Table Of Contents

1. What's in a Name?
2. How to Visit Teotihuacán
3. Hours, Admission & Visitor Tips
4. History
5. Architecture
6. Religious Iconography
7. La Ciudadela
8. The Temple of the Feathered Serpent
9. Avenue of the Dead
10. Pyramid of the Sun
11. Museo de la Cultura Teotihuacana
12. The Quetzalpapálotl 
13. Palace of the Jaguars
14. Templo de Los Caracoles Emplumados
15. The Pyramid of the Moon
16. Museo de los Murales Teotihuacanos

Introduction

Teotihuacán is the sight of the ancient Mesoamerican pyramids, first built in 100 BCE. That makes them over 2,000 years old! Teotihuacán was, at the time of its construction, the largest city in pre-Columbian North America, with a population of around 125,000. Considering how long ago that was, a city that size is just staggering.

Most cities that existed that long ago were so much smaller since their infrastructure couldn’t support a population of that size. 13th century London was only 80,000 people, and that was hundreds of years after the building of Teotihuacán. When you explore the site and look around at the city’s ancient foundations, you’ll be able to see the scale and size of this magnificent domain. The city continued to flourish and grow until 1150 CE, when it was destroyed by invading Mexican armies. They left it to ruin, and it was left almost untouched for hundreds and hundreds of years.

What’s in a Name?

The name Teōtīhuacān, the name given to the site, was more than likely not the settlement’s original name. Teōtīhuacān was given by the Nahuatl-speaking Aztecs centuries after the city’s fall. The name means the birthplace of the gods. The Aztecs believed and wrote in their myths that this location was where the gods created the universe. As such, when visiting, consider this a very sacred site for the Mexican people. And you should consider this while you are there. Walking down that huge avenue when you first entered the site, I felt a huge wave of awe wash over my body. It felt undeniably sacred. And even when there were moments of quiet when the tourists would scatter, I swear it still felt like eyes were watching, perhaps from another astral plane above.

Further investigations years later revealed old Mayan hieroglyphics, which referred to these areas as “puh,” which means the “Place of Reeds.” Since this name and the hieroglyphics would not have been discovered by the Aztecs during the Mayan period, they most likely didn’t rename the site but, more understandably, just weren’t aware of the fact it ever had a different name before. Even though more and more historians are starting to identify the site by this original name, Teotihuacán has stuck thus far and therefore is what most people still call it to this day.

How to Visit Teotihuacán

Public Transport

You might be surprised to hear that you can access this amazing historical site by public transport! Take the Metro on Line 5 to Autobuses del Norte metro station. From there, head across the street to the bus station, where you can board a bus to the Pyramids. All the buses heading to the Pyramids are run by the Autobuses Teotihuacán company, and to purchase a ticket for the bus, head over to counter number 8.

The Public Bus

Busses leave every 20 minutes, starting around 6 am and ending around 2 pm (but never leave it that late). I’d recommend getting there as early as possible but to avoid travelling on the metro during rush hour. The buses leaving for the pyramids will have a sign which displays “Piramides” on the front of the bus. You will even get a seat number marked on your ticket, so sit where you’re assigned. Your ticket is for a specific time, so don’t miss your bus and think you can jump on the next. The journey to the Pyramids takes about an hour, depending on the traffic.

Buses will drop you off at Puerta 1 at Teotihuacán, where you can buy entrance tickets. I’d give yourself at least 4 hours to explore, so check the bus return departure times. The buses returning to the city can be found at Puerta/Gate #2 near the main road or Gate #3. So, if you’re brave enough, the journey on public transport is well worth the effort for the cost savings! Public transport costs only 100 pesos (around $6 USD) for a round-trip journey from the bus station to Teotihuacán and back. Tickets on the Metro cost 5 pesos (less than 25 cents USD) per journey.

Why do I say brave? Well, Mexico City’s public transport system has a very sketchy reputation. Some people say it’s totally safe, and others would avoid it at all costs. If you’ve travelled a lot on the metro before and are a confident traveller, I would say this journey would be fine for you. But I would skip this option if you’re a newer traveller or visiting Mexico City for the first time.

Guided Tour

There are dozens of different guided tour options for your visit to Teotihuacán. Whichever company you go with, the biggest thing you want to make sure of is an early morning departure and that you have plenty of time at the site. These things will make a huge difference in your experience. While a large group size is something I try to avoid, this blog post lets you easily get away with being your own tour guide. But having a real one to answer all your burning questions is always nice.

Vibe Adventures offers a completely private guided tour. Their prices depend on your group size, but for two people, it’s $172.00 USD. Amigo Tours offers an amazing sunrise option as it allows you to see the site without all the tourists as the sun comes up behind the pyramids. For two people, the 9-hour tour costs $67 USD. They bring larger groups to the site, which is a downside, but you get the cost savings.

Airbnb Experiences

We went with an Airbnb experience called the Teotihuacán Express. We LOVED it, not only because it left early in the morning but also because the group size was very small. There were only four guests on the tour, of a possible six. This ensured I could ask all my questions! We also had plenty of time to explore the sites independently, a great balance to a guided tour. The tour costs $65 USD per person, which is the best option!

Private Driver

Hiring a private driver is another great way to get safely to the historic site. This way, you can explore the entirety of the place on your own time. Ask your hotel about hiring a private driver, as they almost always have a few reliable drivers for you to contact. If you’re not staying in a hotel, I’ve also found Airbnb hosts to be very useful in recommending their own private drivers. You can also use Uber to get to the historical site, and so long as you’re travelling during popular times of the day, you shouldn’t have an issue getting back to the city. Just remember that the prices of the rides tend to be more expensive on the return journey since traffic increases throughout the day.

Hours, Admission & Visitor Tips

If you’re travelling to Teotihuacán by guided tour, all your admission fees should be paid, but if you’re going alone, you’ll be responsible for getting your own admission tickets. The Teotihuacán archaeological zone is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm, Monday to Sunday. Admission costs 70 pesos per person, and children under one can get in.

How Long to spend?

I would say 4-5 hours is enough time to see everything. Some people blast through the place at lightning speed, which is an option, but there is SO MUCH to see and do! It would be a shame to come all this way and miss out on so much. So don’t rush, and just take it all in as it comes.

When to Go?

Weekday mornings are, no doubt, the best time to visit. This site can get very busy on the weekends (especially on Sundays when the entrance is free to locals.) Arriving early in the morning will not only mean fewer people, but it also is much, much less hot. This area of Mexico is almost entirely shadeless, and the hot sun will just be beating down on you all day. So arriving as early as possible ensures your visit will be all the more comfortable.

What to Bring

• WATER! And lots of it. Remember what I said about the sun? And remember, this area of Mexico is much higher, so you’ll find yourself becoming dehydrated more quickly. You can easily think you’re drinking enough and still suffer from heat exhaustion the next day. Drink more than you think you should, and you’ll be fine.
•  Cash for the vendors. At the site, there are some really sweet artisans and craftspeople. There is even a small marketplace. I loved the Jaguar souvenirs we bought from here to remember the trip, and it would be a shame if you didn’t have cash on hand, as none of these places take credit cards. Also, if you’re hiring a guide or driver, giving them a cash tip is nice as it goes straight to them instead of to the company.
•  Snacks! If your tour doesn’t include food, you’ll want to pack something to eat. Our tour provided lunch, but as it was a 9-hour tour, we were glad we brought some snacks to enjoy. Just be sure to pick up after yourself!
•  Walking shoes. A lot of walking is required to explore all of Teotihuacán, so bring comfy shoes that aren’t open-toed. While sandals might seem like the coolest option for a hot day, the gravel, sand, stairs and rocks don’t make for a great combination when paired with open-toed sandals.

Accessibility

If you have mobility issues or can get tired easily, it’s best to go on a guided bus tour, as the tours will actually drive you from site to site, so you don’t have to walk almost 4 km between all the different buildings. Although you might want to skip the climb up the pyramids, there is still lots to see on the ground, and you’ll have more time to grill your guide with questions about the beautiful site. If you only have the energy to climb one of the pyramids, I’d recommend the Pyramid of the Moon. It is a much shorter climb, and I liked the view from up there the best. But the climb is quite steep, so keep that in mind.

Wheelchair Access

If you’re visiting in a wheelchair, I managed to find a wheelchair-accessible tour for you! There must be more of these since tracking even this one down was challenging. I hope you’re listening tour operators! Gate #5 is the best entrance for wheelchairs as this entryway has no steps or obstacles to enter the Teotihuacan complex. The terrain along the Avenue of the Dead is fairly level, but as it’s made of old dirt and gravel, it is much more easily traversable in a powered chair rather than a manual. But if you’ve got the energy or the help, don’t let this hold you back from visiting this great site; it might require a little more effort.

History

The history of Teotihuacán is very mysterious, as archeologists and historians still do not know exactly who built this amazing sight. No non-ideographic texts (hieroglyphics) from Teotihuacán exist, meaning there is no recorded history of their culture. At first, historians thought the city was built by the Toltec civilization, one of Mesoamerica’s first recorded civilizations. But these people didn’t appear until 900 CE, and Teotihuacán predates this culture by a few hundred years.

The architecture of Teotihuacán appears to contain features of various cultures, including the Maya, Mixtec and Zapotec. This led historians to believe that various historically evident volcanic eruptions from the nearby Teotihuacán Valley, just before the founding of the city, would have brought thousands of different people from various tribes together into this rich basin. And this was where they formed the new city of Teotihuacán.

Chinampas

The basin was rich with minerals, and agriculturally, Teotihuacán was equally prosperous. Teotihuacán employed chinampas that created channels of irrigation that funnelled water into more arid areas of the land. This allowed farmers to create large, plentiful fields throughout the valley. The farmers of Teotihuacán grew everything from corn, beans, squash, tomato, amaranth, avocado, prickly pear cactus, and chilli peppers.

These chinampas canals also provided a means of transportation. They used canoes to travel up and down the valley. Access to the waterways also meant they could easily trade with cities around Mesoamerica. In many of the dig sites around Teotihuacán, they have found objects from as far away as Guatemala! Historians could see how far and wide people would travel to visit this great city through these discoveries.

Archeological Discoveries

Another thing which they have uncovered is that Teotihuacán was a city of craftsmen. Discovered in ruins were thousands of pieces of pottery and jewellery, along with the tools which would have been employed by these artisans. But their most precious crafted material was obsidian! Large obsidian deposits were located nearby at Pachuca, and this mineral was used to create strong pieces of weaponry, such as spears and dart heads.

Although no military structures have been found in Teotihuacán, this does not mean they were a peaceful nation. In various murals that have been uncovered, there are depictions of fearsome warriors and impressive arms. Their military leaders wore impressive feathered headdresses, carried large shields and shells were used as makeshift armour. Hundreds of weapons have been found on-site, perhaps evidence that Teotihuacán was one of the largest weapons traders in Mesoamerica. Perhaps this is what led to their downfall as a tribe? Trying to guess what brought an end to this illustrious city is truly one of the most interesting parts of visiting Teotihuacán.

Architecture

The architecture used to create these buildings is incredibly ingenious, considering their design time. The pyramids closely resemble other structures from as far away as Egypt, despite having no connection to that far-off land. The main style found at Teotihuacán is “talud-tablero,” which refers to the architectural feature of inward-sloping external sides, which are topped with a rectangular panel. Originally these buildings would have been painted dark red, almost burgundy, and decorated with emerald greens and other natural colours that would have been derived from organic materials found around Teotihuacán.

Religious Iconography

Gods were of the utmost importance to the people of Teotihuacán. But their gods were very different from the ones we know today, but that makes them no less significant. Knowing a little about these gods is important, as it helps you better understand some of the iconography used throughout the archeological sites. Just as knowing a few stories from the Bible helps you interpret images in Christian Cathedrals, knowing a bit about these Mexican gods helps you better understand the stories they are trying to tell, even thousands of years ago. Despite no written texts about the gods from Teotihuacán, hieroglyphics which tell their stories have been discovered. Teotihuacán gods share some of the same characteristics found in the Aztec culture, of which we have much-written text that gives us a bit of insight into their history.

Great Goddess of Teotihuacán

The Great Goddess of Teotihuacán is the chief god that rules over the city. The great goddess is most notable for her giant feathered headdress, which is almost twice as wide as herself. In the headdress’s center is an owl’s face with a pointed beak. Her body is adorned with large beaded necklaces and other jewelry pieces typically worn by Teotihuacán women of the time. The most important piece of jewellery on her body is the enormous jade nosepiece, decorated with what looks to be spider-like fangs. One of the remaining sculptures to her glory still sits outside the gates of Teotihuacán after you pass through the admission gates.

One of the most important murals which depict the Great Goddess of Teotihuacán was found in the Temple of the Jaguar. This is significant as the goddess is considered one of the underworld’s rulers. Throughout representations of the Great Goddess of Teotihuacán, you’ll find images of spiders, owls and jaguars. Each of these animals is known to be associated with the night and, therein, the underworld. But in addition to symbolizing the underworld, she also directly represents creation. Many murals depict her with her hands outstretched, with water or jewels pouring from them. This represents how she is there to provide for her people.

Quetzalcoatl, the feathered Serpent

Quetzalcoatl, after whom one of the temples in Teotihuacán is named, is the feathered rattlesnake god. He usually wears a breastplate made of a large conch shell on his chest, which has been known to be worn as a talisman by spiritual healers and religious rulers all over Mesoamerica. The conch shell, which sounds like the wind when pressed to your ear, is significant as Quetzalcoatl is the god of wind, air, and learning. The shape of the conch shell is also thought to replicate the patterns created by hurricanes, dust devils and tornadoes which might have torn through this part of the countryside. While in some other Aztec cultures, the feathered serpent represented war, in Teotihuacán, historians have found that he is more closely associated with fertility and the earth’s agriculture.

Tlaloc, the Storm God

Tlaloc was the storm god, the god of rain and fertility. In these arid climates, water was so closely associated with life and, therefore, power. As such, Tlaloc was one of the most important gods in their pantheon. Tlaloc is usually depicted with large, bug eyes and fangs (often made from panther claws). Tlaloc is also almost always seen carrying a cornstalk or lightning bolt wand.

La Ciudadela

When arriving at the site, the first large, almost empty field you’ll encounter is the great Ciudadelal or “marketplace” of Teotihuacán. Surrounding the central Ciudadela are a few other large and wide structures which encircle an enormous large inner courtyard. These outer buildings would once have had tall walls, which protected the inner area of the Ciudadela.

In the center of the field, inside this walled area, are two large foundations, once the location of two huge mansions. These were thought to be occupied by some of the most powerful families in Teotihuacán. These families would have wielded great political power and influence over the city. Having their house in the centre of the Ciudadela would have allowed them to watch over the dealings and daily life of the city.

The Temple of the Feathered Serpent

The Temple of the Feathered Serpent is located towards the back of the Ciudadela. Walking up to this first pyramid, I remember feeling so in awe, but I had no idea how small this pyramid was compared to the ones along the Avenue of the Dead! This structure was built in 150 CE. Covering all sides of the pyramid are carvings of the feathered serpent, giving the pyramid its name. In addition to the faces of the feathered serpent, you can also see images of Tlaloc. See if you can spot them all! Look closely at their eyes. They all have empty sockets, which once would have contained obsidian orbs, that have since been plundered over the years. You can imagine how these orbs would have reflected the light and looked like the eyes of the gods were following you.

Below the sculptures of the god’s heads, you can see bas-reliefs with symbols of water and seashells. Since this location is so far away from the sea, these representations of the ocean solidify that this society knew these geographic locations. This also means that perhaps citizens of Teotihuacán either travelled out to the edges of the country or received travellers and traders from those parts of the country.

Mesoamerican Calendar

In addition to the empty eye sockets, you might notice that some of the god’s mouths are missing something. The people of Mesoamerica had a very advanced understanding of the calendar, and it is thought that these serpents’ mouths helped track the calendar year. There are 260 of them, the number of days the Teotihuacán calendar followed. They had a rich understanding of the position of the sun and the moon, and their position in the sky was of the utmost importance to their culture and architectural designs.

Underground Tunnels

As recently as 2003, an underground tunnel was discovered under the Temple of the Feather Serpent. After many painstaking years of digging and careful excavation, archeologists discovered a series of tunnels connecting different areas of the Teotihuacán complex. Many large entrances inside these tunnels were blocked off by huge boulders, which had been placed there 2,000 years ago. Excavating the entrances, they found seashells, cat bones, pottery and even human skin.

Towards the end of these tunnels, they even discovered what they believed to be a small sanctuary. Hundreds of precious objects were found, from; wooden masks covered with inlaid jade and quartz elaborate necklaces, rings, stone crocodile teeth and human figurines. There were crystals shaped into sets of eyes, beetle wings arranged in boxes, sculptures of jaguars, and hundreds of metallized spheres. Guarding the entrance to the underground area were four large stone statues. Each one wearing garments that would have once been adorned with gems. They are thought to be the founding shamans of Teotihuacán who would have greeted pilgrims into the sanctuary. Here, sacred objects used to perform rituals were also found, making it perhaps one of the most sacred remaining sites.

Avenue of the Dead

Head back out to the main avenue and walk towards the other end of the archeological site. This large walkway, leading directly to the Pyramid of the Moon, seen at the end of the avenue, is called Avenue of the Dead. The road is about 40 meters wide and 4km long (this is why you need your walking shoes!) The length is one thing, but the width makes this avenue seem grand and important!

On either side of the avenue are dozen smaller buildings, with talud-tablero platforms. These are believed to once been where burial tombs were kept, giving the avenue its name. Each of these buildings would have been topped with a temple at one point.

Pyramid of the Sun

The crowning glory of Teotihuacán is no doubt the Pyramid of the Sun. It is the largest of all the Pyramids in the city and still stands as its guardian. It is also the third-largest pyramid in the entire world. The name comes from the Aztecs, who first discovered it in 500 BC. The pyramid was built in two phases from 100 CE to 200 CE. Over 1.1 million cubic meters of adobe mud and bricks were used to build the giant structure. The amount of work and number of people it would have taken to build this structure so many years ago is just staggering.

Star Alignment

The location of this pyramid was very important to the people of Teotihuacán. The positioning of each of the pyramids is one of the most advanced and astonishing things about ancient Teotihuacán. The pyramids align perfectly with the three stars of Orion’s belt as they appear in the sky on August 11th. Why August 11th, you ask? Well, this is what the people of Teotihuacán believed was the date of the “birth of the world.” While this knowledge of the stars in the sky leads some people to believe in their construction by the hands of otherworldly creatures, I think it also points to these incredible people’s extremely advanced knowledge.

When it was first built, the pyramid would have been painted in bright colours and covered in rich murals. Some of these murals can still be seen in the archeological museum.

Height of the Pyramids

The pyramids are 200 feet (63 meters) tall. And one can only imagine what the view from above would have looked like when this city was exploding with life during its heyday.

We were lucky enough to visit Teotihuacan before they closed the climb up the pyramids. Reaching the top of the pyramid was a real moment for me. We arrived at a time of day when there weren’t too many people who had made it to the top, and the silence was beautifully deafening up here. The humidity was low, and you could see so far away from the valley’s centre. I tried to imagine the hundreds and perhaps thousands of smaller buildings that would have also surrounded the city. I tried to think how far it stretched, almost like the first metropolis.

Museo de la Cultura Teotihuacana

Along the Avenue of the Dead, you’ll come to a small pathway on the right, leading you to the Museo de la Cultura Teotihuacan or Archeological Museum and the Botanical Gardens. You’ll have to backtrack slightly to get there, but I think it’s more important to see and climb to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun first since there will be fewer tourists earlier in the day. I thought this museum was really interesting and worth the effort of visiting. If museums aren’t your thing and you’d rather keep exploring, you can miss it. It’s also a great indoor area to escape to in the heat of the afternoon sun if you need to cool down.

In this museum, you can learn more about Teotihuacán’s history and see many of the different discoveries that have been uncovered from the dig sites. Here you can study objects used in daily life inside Teotihuacán. There are beautiful carvings dedicated to the various gods. And hundreds of pieces of jewelry made from shells, bones, rocks and more.

Funerary Objects

One of the most interesting parts of the museum is the areas dedicated to burial and funerary materials, as well as a look into human sacrifices! One of the most prevailing stories of ancient Mesoamerican cities is the dark stories of human sacrifice. Originally, it was thought Teotihuacán was quite peaceful, but archaeological digs reveal a darker history. It is well documented that Teotihuacános practiced human sacrifice. Many animal and human skeletons have been found during excavations around the pyramids, consistent with sacrificial burials.

It is strongly believed that to commemorate the building of new structures, the Teotihuacán people would make a human sacrifice, often of a captured enemy, bringing good fortune to this new building. Male warrior skeletons were some of the most prolific remains on the sites. In their hands were large weapons, and they wore ornate necklaces made to look like they were made of human teeth. The stones were carved to look like the lower jawbone of humans to put fear into any enemies they encountered. Animal sacrifices were also very important as they believed animals held mythical powers. When that animal was killed, it was said that the person or site would absorb those powers.

Model of Teotihuacán

Towards the back of the museum is a large minature model of the entire layout of Teotihuacán as it would have appeared when it was first built. This gives you an idea of the scale and relationship between different areas in a way you could never experience from the ground. Or really understand as it remains today with so many elements lost to time.

Botanic Gardens

Surroundings of the archeology museum are beautiful curated botanic gardens. This garden is a protected area that contains plants that would have grown here naturally in 200 CE. The gardens ensure the preservation of these ancient plants. You can find nopal, manzanilla, plum, avocados, figs, lime trees, cherry, bitter, aloe vera, but also cactus, agave, and cardi plants.

The Quetzalpapálotl 

Quetzalpapálotl is a complex of ruins that were thought to once be an ancient Palace. Here is where you can see some of the most amazing murals, in situ. These precious paintings still exist today as they were protected from the elements being indoors. This building was constructed around 450 CE. But remnants of an even older structure have been found underneath that date back as early as 250 CE. Since this palace contains so many beautiful and intricate murals, it is thought that this part of the complex was where high-ranking priests of dignitaries lived. As it was occupied by the priests, it is safe to assume that many rituals or sacred ceremonies would have taken place here.

Inner Courtyard

One of the most alluring parts of the building is the inner courtyard, where you can find a series of intricately carved pillars. These pillars represent various mythological creatures from which the name of the building comes.

The birds seen here are the Nahuatl quetzal which means precious feathers. We can also see images of the pāpālōtl, which are Aztec butterflies.

Palace of the Jaguars

In a small room inside the palace, you’ll find the red-painted murals of the Palace of the Jaguars. These murals depict plumed felines holding conch shells in their mouth. These murals were thought to represent war as conch shells were used to announce incoming armies during great battles. See if you can spot the rain god Tlaloc, with his googly eyes and large fangs. Many of these murals are of the highest quality and show off the level of artistry that was present in this community. Many cities would not have had such skilled artisans, so the fact that Teotihuacán employed such artists is more evidence of the greatest of their city.

Templo de Los Caracoles Emplumados

Inside the Palace of Quetzapapalotl, you’ll find the hidden Templo de Los Caracoles Emplumados or Temple of the Feathered Feathered Conches. This temple is buried beneath the rest of the building. You can see a clear carving of the feathered conch on one of the columns. Conch shells were only worn by religious rulers, so this could have been where the city’s rulers would have come from.

Also found in the temple are some incredible green birds. These birds are known as the quetzals. Stream water flows towards a three-petaled yellow flower from their once bright orange beaks. Although the flower might look like a French Fleur-de-lis, it is actually thought to be a ripening maize (corn) plant with the leaves peeling back to reveal the cob of corn. Corn has forever been one of the most important plants grown by the Mexican people, so it shares this connection with these life-giving birds.

Cougar Mural

Exiting back on the Avenue of the Dead, as you near the pyramid of the moon, you’ll pass a small shelter that protects another precious mural. This is known as the Puma or Cougar Mural. This mural is a fantastic example of the decoration with which all the buildings along the Avenue of the Dead would have been painted. The puma (or cougar) is the central point of the mural. Its claws are enormous, showing off its ferocity and strength. The mural’s background is painted with waving lines, which were thought to represent the water.

The Pyramid of the Moon

At the end of the Avenue of the Dead, we find the final pyramid, the Pyramid of the Moon. This is the second-largest pyramid on the site, built between 100 and 450 CE. Behind the Pyramid stands the great Cerro Gordo, or “Fat Hill.” The pyramid, while not as tall as the Sun pyramid, is very wide and almost mimics the shape of the hill behind it. In a mural found on the site, there is a depiction of “The Paradise of Tlaloc,” which shows the Cerro Gordo mountain as a life-giving natural wonder nourishing the’s people of Teotihuacán. The mountain helped farmers sow and water their crops and therefore was considered sacred and deserving of great reverence.

But there is a darker aspect of this mural as well. In addition to the water-giving nature of the mountain, the mural shows sacrificial enslaved figures, bound together, who are being fed to the mountain. This depiction confirms that this pyramid was where many sacrificial rituals were performed and was a burial ground for these victims. These burial sites contained felines, birds of prey, snakes, and, yes, even human remains. Since all the animals found on the site were carnivorous, it is thought that therefore the sacrifices were closely associated with warfare.

Great Goddess of Teotihuacán

As the moon is a part of the world of night, and therefore the underworld, the pyramid was thought to be a place that honours the Great Goddess of Teotihuacán. A tomb was discovered in the tunnels beneath the pyramid dedicated to the Great Goddess herself. There, they found a single human male sacrificial victim and a wolf, jaguar, puma, serpent, bird skeletons, and more than 400 other relics. Many of these items, such as ceremonial knives and spear points, were violent.

The placement of the Pyramid of the Moon at the end of the Avenue of the Dead has been theorized to represent the human journey coming to an end of the road. And the temple underneath is dedicated to the great goddess, your entry into the underworld.

In front of the pyramid is a large plaza that Mesoamericans used as a place of gathering and socialization. The plaza was used for astronomical observation as well. It is surrounded by pyramidal bases that would have housed temples and provided viewing platforms for the city’s elite.

Museo de los Murales Teotihuacanos

I highly recommend visiting the Murals Museum of Teotihuacán if time allows. The museum houses hundreds of murals that have been excavated from the archeological zone. The murals are divided into themes that give you a glimpse at an artistic rendition of life in Teotihuacán. You can see paintings of the gods they worshipped and how these gods made an impact on the lives of the people.

Some murals also show the Teotihuacán people playing ball games, almost like soccer or baseball, that we know today! This kind of scene breaks the division of time between this ancient civilization and how we live today.

Tepantitla

Various murals come from a compound in Tepantitla. The murals from this wonderfully preserved space give us a look inside the daily lives of the Teotihuacán people. You can see Teotihuacános hunting butterflies, farmers sowing seeds and priests performing rituals. These priests wear headdresses with the faces of owls or crocodiles to pay homage to their respective gods.

The museum also features a fantastical recreation of what the interior paintings inside temple spaces would once have looked like. This gives you an idea of the colours and designs that once would have covered these great pyramids’ entire outside and inside. It brings the rocks to life, and I can’t imagine who utter awe one would have experienced hundreds of years ago, walking into this city for the first time.

This brings us to the end of the guided tour. Teotihuacán is truly one of the most spectacular ancient sites of the old world. I remember the first time I visited the ancient ruins of Rome, I felt a little disappointed. Stuck in the middle of a bustling modern city, they felt out of place. Or at least didn’t imbue the kind of reverence I had expected from these time-worn relics. But Teotihuacán was different. Walking down the avenue of the dead, you feel like an explorer coming across the discovery of a lifetime. You can feel the sacred nature of the stones and see the grandeur of the city which once was. I definitely think whatever way you can make your way here, don’t miss seeing this amazing piece of history!

Have you been to Teotihuacán before? Or is there another ancient ruin you loved exploring for the first time? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Exploring Teotihuacán, the Wonderous Pyramid of the Sun | Updated 2023 first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. When to Visit
2. History
3. Where to Park
4. Old Jerome Cemetery
5. Ghost City Inn
6. House of Joy
7. Jerome's Sliding Jail
8. Cuban Queen Bordello 
9. Husband's Alley
10. Liberty Theatre & Gifts
11. Connor Hotel
12. The Spirit Room
13. Bartlett Hotel
14. Jerome Park
15. Mile High Inn
16. First Episcopal Church
17. The Haunted Hamburger
18. Surgeon's House
19. The Old Company Clinic
20. Asylum Restaurant
21. The Grand Hotel
22. United Verde Mine

When to Visit

Obviously, since this is a ghost tour, the best time for it is at dusk as it day turns to night. But even during the daytime, the abandoned streets and buildings still have an ominous feeling. Three of the locations on this tour are also hotels so for those brave enough to stay overnight, you’re in for an extra treat. Overnight stays allow you to experience the town without as many tourists, and the silence allows for keener ears and eyes to spot those spectres.

History

Jerome was founded in the late 19th century on Cleopatra Hill. It overlooks the scenic Verde Valley, which is 5,000 feet above sea level. During its heyday, it was home to more than 15,000 people. During the first world war, the price of copper soared, and American citizens came here in droves to mine the rich copper quarries that were abundant in this area of the west. Jerome was dubbed the “Wickedest Town in the West” by the New York Sun newspaper in 1903. It had a reputation for rampant gambling, an abundance of alcohol consumption, drug abuse, gunfights and other mayhem. With all of that debauchery came a series of unfortunate deaths, each one relating to the abandon that was felt throughout the town. It was lawless and rarely were crimes investigated to the full extent of the law.

Over the years the town seemed to be cursed. Jerome was subject to numerous fires, earthquakes and other natural disasters. The population continued to decrease and the copper mines dried up. Eventually, it became a ghost town with little to no sustainable source of income. In the late ’60s, the Arizonian Tourism board saw Jerome’s untouched architectural and cultural history to be valuable for visitors. And in 1967 Jerome was established as a Historical Landmark.

State Park and National Mine Museum

In the late 2000s, art galleries and trendy restaurants started popping up to drive more people into the town. The local State Park and National Mine Museum were established to help preserve the history of mining in this village and to educate travelling visitors on the history of Jerome. But what people come to Jerome for these days, are the ghosts! Even if you don’t believe in these spectres, the dark history of the town’s past is a fascinating way to explore its decrepit streets and abandoned buildings.

United Verde Mines

The United Verde Mines in Jerome were a dangerous place. In 1922, the quality of ore they had been mining began to degrade, and they had to switch to open-pit mining. This resulted in multiple fires which plagued the operations. Often, there was no way to control the flames which burned the ore under the ground. These ever-burning fires resulted in dense smoke on the skyline of Jerome for months, a haunting sight to see. The recklessness of the mine owners was in their quest for power and wealth is thought to have cursed the town. Fire after fire, earthquakes, landslides and rampant diseases seem like something more than just chance.

Dynamite and Explosions

If the fires and dynamite explosions didn’t kill the miners, brawls and shootouts would. In its heyday, it is estimated that there were four murders a day in Jerome! Since these men were poor miners there was no money for a funeral and burial. So they were disposed of in the cities smelting furnaces, and the bone fragments from the corpses are literally now still in the foundation of the city itself. It’s a living tomb. Today, the ghosts of these fallen miners are thought to haunt the town, in search of their final resting place.

So many ghosts died in the fires which tore through the camp in the early days of Jerome. At that time, most of the buildings were made from timber, and once something caught fire, it spread rapidly. Being high up on the hill meant that the winds would pick up any bits of burning embers can carry them past where the initial blaze started. In 1898 one of the most massive fires pretty much levelled the entire town to ash and took with it many lives.

Where to Park

After visiting the cemetery, which is on the outskirts of the town, there is a parking lot for anyone on a day trip marked on the map where you can easily leave your car and then head over to the next spot on tour. If you’re staying overnight, almost all the hotels have dedicated parking.

Old Jerome Cemetery

We’ll start our tour on the outskirts of town. Before you even enter the ghost town, you’re immediately met with a sign of its darkened past. The old cemetery once housed over 400 graves and markers, but today almost nothing remains. Because the ground was so tough, most of the time, the earth wasn’t dug too deep to bury the bodies. This meant that animals, such as coyotes, were able to dig up the corpses and drag them from their “eternal” resting place out to the mountains where they were never recovered. Today, the last of the stones and markers are protected with iron fences to ensure they don’t slide right off the cliffside. From this place, you have a panoramic view of the United Verde Mining Operations and the towering Cleopatra hill which rises up above the city.

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Ghost City Inn

This charming red and white painted two storey bed and breakfast seem anything but nefarious. But like everything in Jerome, it’s not what it seems. The Ghost City Inn was initially built in 1885 by the Garcia family as a lodging house for the managers of the various mines. In 1930, a miner staying in the house had constructed a bootleg still in his room. The poorly made machine exploded, causing an enormous fire which engulfed the entire second floor. In the 1950s and 70s, the house went through multiple renovations. This was in an attempt to keep relevant after the closure of the mines.

It became an art gallery, funeral home, spiritual retreat and restaurant. In 1994, it went through its latest transformation into a bed and breakfast where brave visitors stay the night to see if they can spot a ghost. The hotel’s most popular room, the Cleopatra Hill room, a female spirt it thought to be seen roaming the halls. In the Verde View Room, there is a male spirit seen outside the halls spying through keyholes on those people inside. People have seen doors slam on their own and whispering voices in the hallways when no one is there. Perhaps these are the ghosts of the people who perished in the fire, searching for a way out.

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Ladies of the Night

The ghosts of these ‘ladies of the night’ are thought to roam these streets, searching for redemption. High-class escorts worked in brothers where they had madams who took care of their health and safety. But if you were one of the lower class working women, you worked in what was called “the cribs”. These women saw upwards of 30-80 men a night and exposed themselves to harsh conditions, illness and violence.

Dozens of women died either by the hands of jealous clients or passed away from sexually transmitted diseases they weren’t even aware of. One such woman, who is seen wandering the street, was named Sammie Dean. Sammie Dean was murdered on Tuesday July 7th 1931 inside ‘Lil’s place’, a brothel apartment off Hull Ave. Her killer is a mystery but suspects include the Mayors Son, or Deputies Son. She is reportedly spotted in windows along the street, continually looking for her killer.

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House of Joy

The House of Joy on Hull Avenue is now an eclectic shop, but it was once one of the most famous brothels in town. In front of this house, people have said they feel like they are being watched by eyes in the window, despite no one being home. Often you’ll hear footsteps behind you, only to turn and nothing is there. People have even been said to be able to smell old fashioned perfume wafting from nowhere.

This red and black painted bordello was owned by the famous Madam, Nora “Butter” Brown. She was the very first madam to open a brothel in Jerome and taught Madam Jennie everything she knew. Jennie (who we will learn about late) went on to become much more success than Brown herself but learned everything from good ol’ Nora. During one of the many Jerome fires, Nora ran to the fire department and begged them to save her house over all the others. She went so far as to offer all the firefighters free “business” if they managed to save her property. With that kinda incentive its no surprise to hear, her house was saved.

Jerome’s Sliding Jail

Continue walking along Hull Avenue, and as you climb, on your right, down the hill (pathway marked), you’ll find the famous Sliding Jail. As the miners continued to dig and disrupt the steep hillside, many buildings were lost to landslides. And this jail is one of the remaining examples of this phenomenon. In 1936, the earth gave way under the jail, and it literally slid down the hill. It originally was located 200 feet from here, upon the main street.

The concrete cell block literally fell right out of the tin and wood building it was contained within. One can only imagine if someone had been inside this cell or not when it made a run for it. The cell is now reinforced by a few new walls and an iron fence to attempts to keep people out. Spirits have been drawn to this site for years, perhaps ghosts of old prisoners, searching for somewhere familiar.

Cuban Queen Bordello 

Just up from the sliding jail, is the remains of the Cuban Queen Bordello. This building was finally torn down in 2017 as it had been left to rot and eventually collapsed on itself. The once swanky Bordello was the site of one of the town’s most unlucky couple. After drinks in the bordello, two men had a quarrel in the streets, and one had killed the other. The murdered man’s wife, now left with no income became a prostitute at the Cuban Queen Bordello. There she was also shot to death by an estranged lover. Perhaps the angry spirits of the murdered couple brought down the building itself, but no doubt they still roam the area. But at least they are together again in death.

Husband’s Alley

Husbands Alley is the small alley behind what is now the Nellie Blie building. It had a false store front with access down to the Cribs. The Cribs District or ‘Husband’s Alley’ by the locals, as this was where the majority of Jerome’s prostitutes and ladies of the night would set up shop. Miners rarely brought their families with them when they took a position at a mine, and this meant prostitution was rampant. Although prostitution was technically legal, police would look the other way, and the trade was second only to copper in terms of the money brought into Jerome. At one point over 100 prostitutes were working in town.

Brothels and Saloons

These brothels were once located right on the main street, but when Jerome attempted to become a more “family-friendly” town, these establishments were moved to this new area, away from the saloons on the main drag. This meant men could head down to the main street to drink and gamble, and then walk out the back door, to access Husband’s alley. Then they would head back into the saloon once they were finished their “business” and walk out the front of the bar without knowing anyone knowing any the wiser what they had been up to.

Liberty Theatre & Gifts

Turning up Jerome avenue, we come upon the old Liberty Theatre, which now also acts as a gift shop. This was Jerome’s first silent movie theatre. Although the theatre closed in 1929, you can still explore the space it once resided in, and ghosts don’t just head off because of renovations. To this day, the spirit of a former patron haunts the building. Immigrants often came to mining towns as that kind of labour didn’t require too much legal paperwork.

A German-born immigrant woman to the city had struck up an affair with another one of the town’s immigrants. The two had a fight, and the woman fled to the movie theatre to clear her mind. But the man followed her there. He waited until the music got louder and then he strangled her to death, her screams masked by the tune. Today, people have been said to still hear screams coming from the second floor where the theatre once was.

Connor Hotel

Built in 1898 by David Connor, the Connor Hotel is one of Jerome precious jewels of the past. Formerly this hotel was built with over twenty rooms on the second floor to house all the different travelling miners, businessmen and contractors coming from all over the west to cash in on the natural resources to be found here Verde Valley. Rooms only cost $1.00 but back in that day that was a king’s ransom and the Connor Hotel didn’t disappoint. There were a bar, card room and even billiard tables on the first floor. Everything inside the Connor Hotel felt luxurious. It was the top of the line for hotels in the West, know all over Arizona. Just like the Bartlett hotel down the street, the Connor hotel also suffered at the hands of the flames and burned down in 1898.

Because there was so little land that could be built upon and all the buildings downtown were built do close together once a fire started, it spread very quickly, and there was no stopping it. But unlike many other shop owners, Connor had purchased insurance and was able to start construction on his new hotel very quickly. He made some lavish improvements on the previous hotel, including making this one in brick (much more fireproof) and was up and running right away.

Trouble at the Hotel

But as the mines began to run dry and the travelling miners went back home, the hotel started to run out of money. And by 1931 the hotel had to close its doors, for what they thought would be the last time. It still tried to rent out its first floor to different shops to make some money but the second floor remained dormant. It wasn’t until the late 60s with the tourist boom that it was transformed into a hotel once more. After a considerable renovation to update the hotel to modern safety codes and health standards, the hotel is inviting travellers back through its doors to experience a piece of history.

The Connor Hotel is haunted by an unnamed male spirit who loves to play with and manipulate electronics. He loves to turn on and off radios, TVs, telephones, and computers. This man’s presence can be sensed with cold spots in an otherwise warm room, or sometimes the echo of his voice can be heard calling from down the dark and creaky hallways.

Ms. Marie Gallagher

Another famous incident at the hotel involved a woman named Ann Hopkins. Ann’s husband was having an affair with a local school teacher, Ms. Marie Gallagher. In a jealous rage, Ann bought carbolic acid and waited till Gallagher was coming to the hotel to meet her husband. Ann caught her in the lobby and threw the acid in her face. The school teacher, Ms. Marie Gallagher, was not killed in the acid attack, but Ann was sent to jail for about 6 years, and came back to Jerome, living for a time inside the Connor Hotel room #1. Today, her spirit returns to haunt the hotel.

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The Spirit Room

On the lower level of the Connor Hotel, you’ll find the Spirit Room. Be sure to stop in here for a drink along your journey as the desert heat can leave any traveller mighty thirsty. This famous ghost sighting stop is a must-see building along your tour. Many people have seen a mysterious woman in red who comes into the Spirit Room to quench her ever-present thirst. She is a bit of a flirt and is thought to caresses the fingers, faces and necks of visitors. Whispering sweet nothings in their ears. If you take photos inside the spirit room, look for a red smudge, as this is her telltale lipstick stain. The lady in red has also been known to crawl right into bed with male guests who she takes a particular liking to.

Bartlett Hotel

The original building built on this spot was once called the Grandview Hotel and was constructed in 1895. It was a dancehall, a dining room and a high-society social club. In 1898 a great fire broke out throughout the city, and the hotel was destroyed. The Bartlett Hotel was rebuilt in 1901, this time using bricks, hoping this would help withstand another fire. It was a lavish hotel. Each room was decorated in a different colour, making every guest feel uniquely special.

The New Jerome’s Times, the longest-running newspaper, ran its offices out of the Bartlett hotel for 20 years until it had to shut its doors due to poor circulation. But in the late 1940s, the building became unstable and eventually abandoned. Now, all that’s left of it is the framing. The Jerome Historical Society has set up wooden ghosts for tourists to throw pennies into. The money collected is raised for future repairs and hopefully more preservation efforts throughout the city. 

Jerome Park

Across from the Bartlett, the hotel is the old Jerome Park. I hesitate to call it a park; it’s little more than a rusted swing set and an empty patch of land. But this is where one of the many deadly shootouts in Jerome took place. Alcohol and boredom fueled the fires of many a miner’s heads and after one too many, feuds between men, often over the love of a woman, would get heated enough to be taken outside and ended in a bloody shoot out. People often walking the streets at night have heard the sound of gunshots, but the shooter is never found and often thought to be echoes of the past.

Mile High Inn

Beside the park is the infamous Mile High Inn. This establishment was once owned by a woman named Madam Jennie Bauters. She was the wealthiest woman in northern Arizona. Jennie arrived in Jerome when it was nothing more than tents and shacks. There was no real main street to be heard of. But what there were was men. The original building which became the Mile High Inn was first the Clinkscales Building. It was built in 1899 by an insurance adjuster from Los Angeles. It was many things over the years, including a mortuary, one of Jennie’s Brothels, then a Hardware store when Jennie left Jerome in 1903.

The brothel was exceptionally well furnished, with a large front reception room and interior bedrooms dripping with luxurious velvet. These were for the elite of Jerome and Jennie made a pretty penny from these extravagances. The “sinful” business flourished, but despite her seemingly perfect life, Jennie had her fair share of troubles. One of her best girls, Maggie Shults, was murdered in the house by a rejected suitor. He shot her multiple times and then turned the gun on himself on the second floor.

Jennie’s Murderer

But Jennie didn’t let one measly murderer get her down. No, her business was booming, and she was buying up more and more property on Jerome’s main street. Jennie was killed in the small mining town called Acme Gold Road. The town changed its name to just ‘Gold Road’ in 1906. She was seen running down the street in her nightgown barefooted pleading for her life. Clement, her lover, was a gambler, heavy drinker, and always asked her for money. She turned him down one night for money, and he got angry and killed her.

After he realized what he had done he shot himself in the chest. The he lay down next to her dead body and covered his face with his hat, ready to die. He survived, was arrested and taken to jail, and was hung for Jennie’s murder in 1907. She was buried in Kingman at the old Pioneer cemetery. But has been seen still returning to Jerome to visit her old haunts.

Today’s Mile High Inn

Today, the Mile High Inn is much as it was in the 1940s, although remodelled to become a restaurant and hotel. The Madame herself is known to be seen roaming the halls of her institution, looking after the girls as she would have done in life. Jennie is pretty particular about how her home is kept and has been seen throwing dishes if they are not put away correctly or leaving fingerprints on the bed frames as she attempts to clean them. Visitors have come back to their room with the furniture moved around and doors locking and unlocking by themselves.

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First Episcopal Church

The First Episcopal Church was built in Jerome in 1900 but moved to its current building on Clark Street in 1927. Although the church closed its doors in 1953 when the mines closed, the Jerome Historical Society bought the property in 1953 to ensure it was not lost to the ages. Today they use this place for their archives and administration. If you come to her at twilight, you’ll get the chance to meet the church’s resident ghost. She is a woman, robed in white mist, who often stands in the doorway of the church, looking out at the town from this high vantage point.

The Haunted Hamburger

If you’re looking for a place to eat which serves up a side of the spooks, then you must head over to the Haunted Hamburger. While the menu is pretty standard diner fare, the ambience and stories from the locals you’ll learn while visiting are what you really come for. Chefs say that while in the kitchen, ghosts like to throw utensils around to tease them. Contractors swear that the ghosts have been known to steal their tools. A spirit by the name of Claire is thought to wander the second floor, and often you can head footsteps when they swear no one is up there.

Surgeon’s House

This old home, once the residence of the town’s surgeon, is haunted by many spirits. The surgeon was like a celebrity. He was often the richest man in Jerome who was old not a miner. He was a scholar and an educated man. Women were enthralled by these men from big cities. And miners were impressed by the stories they would tell of these lives, so different from the ones they knew. The Surgeons House was the site of many cocktail parties that would rage well into the late hours of the evening.

To this day, phantom music has been known to play, heard all across town. These days the old house is bed and breakfast. And guests have been known to see spectres dancing through the halls. These ghosts seem rather friendly and are just there to have a good time, as they did in life. A famous ghost dressed in a blue gown is frequently seen laughing through the halls. Often chasing a man seen carrying a leather doctors bag, perhaps the surgeon himself.

The Old Company Clinic

The Old Company Clinic was the second hospital to be built in Jerome. It was where, during the 1918 flu epidemic, hundreds of Jerome’s residents came to attempt to be treated. Unfortunately, hundreds of those people died, and their souls are thought to haunt this building. People claim to have said they’ve seen eyes in the windows and patients in turn of the century gowns walking around the 2nd floor. Doctors and nurses rush from room to room, as they would have done while they were alive, trying to cope with the hundreds of sick and dying people who came through their doors. The flu was genuinely horrific to behold and the imprint this terror wrought on the people who witnessed it made a lasting impression on the town, even years after the fateful events.

Crematory

When the third hospital was built, now the Grand Hotel, this one was left to rot. But not for long. The doctors and nurses began using it as a kind of social clubhouse in 1927, to retire in after a long day at work. It had a library, pool tables and lounge. But once the winter came, they found there was no heating in the building. Going on at the same time, the new hospital realized they did not have a working crematory to dispose of their dead bodies. Never to squander an opportunity, the doctors saw a solution to both their problems. They began using the crematory in the old hospital to burn bodies and heat their clubhouse all at once. Despite the ingenuity of the solution, this imbued the entire place with ghosts angry to be thought of as nothing more than coal for these doctors.

Ghost of the Little Girl

The last famous ghost to see if you can spot is that of a little girl. She is often seen sitting near the front door of the old hospital waiting for her mother. Her mother had come down with the flu and the little girl starved to death waiting for her mother to return home, although she never did as she died in hospital of the flu. The little girl often will only come out to maternal figures who she thinks might be her mother returning to her.

Asylum Restaurant

The Award-Winning Asylum Restaurant located at the Jerome Grand Hotel offers lunch and dinner services every day. The restaurant overlooks the entire Verde Valley and provides the diners one of the most amazing views. Although the name seems a bit cheesy, the decor inside is beautiful art deco from the period the building was constructed. The food is all classic dishes and is wonderfully prepared by some of the best chefs in the Valley. The select dishes include Pastrami Salad, Char-Broiled Chilean Grilled Salmon and Mesquite Bacon Wrapped Filet Mignon. If you’re looking for a spot to eat dinner, this is an excellent choice for something a little more luxurious!

The Grand Hotel

The new Jerome Grand Hotel was initially built in 1926 as the Verde County Hospital. The hospital was designed in the Spanish mission revival style of architecture which was so popular at the time. It was one of the last significant buildings to be constructed in Jerome. Since it was so far away from the city centre, it avoided a lot of the fires that broke out downtown and therefore remained its original facade. Also, because it was a hospital and contained so many expensive machines, it was made to be fireproof and withstand dynamite blasts of up to 260,000 pounds.

In 1926 it was the most modern and well-equipped hospitals in Arizona as the mining finances paid for the best services money could afford. But by the 50s, when the mining dried up, the hospital closed down. The building stood unused for 44 years until it was renovated by the Altherr family in 1994 and was turned into a hotel for tourists. The family made many efforts to keep the structure and design of the original hospital to maintain its historical memory. But this also kept within its walls, the ghosts who passed away inside these walls. It was thought that over 9,000 people lost their lives here in this very spot.

Ghosts of the Hotel

Even if you’re not staying in the hotel, venture inside the lobby where some of the most restless spirits are found. Sitting in the dimly lit waiting room, you might spot the old woman in elegant clothes who is thought to be waiting for her husband. Items have flown off the gift shop shelves, doors close on their own and the front desk phone often rings with calls from unoccupied rooms. Behind the front desk of the lobby is still in working 1920’s elevator.

Claude Harvey

The most famous ghost of them all who lives in the hotel is Claude Harvey. Claude was a maintenance worker in the hospital during the 1930s. Claude was well-liked by everyone in town, and when he was found dead at the bottom of the elevator shaft, pinned under the elevator, everyone was shocked. There was an official inquest into his death where they discovered that his neck had been broken before the fall, and there were several strange scratch marks on his body not caused by the fall. In the end, the death was ruled an accident, but many people in town thought otherwise.

Shortly after his death, strange occurrences began at the hospital, specifically around the elevator. Even when no one is inside the lights go on and off and it sounds like someone is walking around inside. The owners went so far as to think someone had been breaking into the hospital and living there unbeknownst to anyone else, but no one was ever found. To this day, any strange occurrences in the elevator are thought to be the ghost of Claude.

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The Old Hospital Ghosts

The 3rd floor was where the operating room was and where most patients lost their lives. For years people have reported hearing coughing, painful groans and cries of distress echoing through the halls. Despite replacing the old wooden floorboards with sound cancelling carpet, guests have been known to hear the rolling of old hospital gurneys on wood floors. The most famous spirit on the 3rd floor is that of an old bearded miner who has been seen turning the lights on and off in the hallways.

Strange occurrences have happened to the living inside the hotel as well. In-room number 32, a man in wheelchair mysteriously managed to fall off a balcony, reportedly committing suicide. In the same room, only a few years later, a businessman shot himself in the face. A caretaker was hanged, and there were multiple murders throughout the hotel. Although this could be due to the “wildness” of the town, the thought of these deaths being influenced by ghosts of the past is hard not to imagine.

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Maternity Ward

On the 4th floor, where the maternity ward once was, there is a ghost of a mother who lost her baby in childbirth. She still roams the halls, frantically searching for her little baby. People report smells coming from unoccupied rooms such as cigar smoke and whiskey, in the waiting room where expectant fathers would have once waited.

United Verde Mine

From the parking lot of the Grand Hotel, you have a beautiful view across Verde Valley, and the old United Verde Mines. Beneath the entire city of Jerome, there are old mine shafts and tunnels which are thought to be the resting place of hundreds of miners. One famous ghost is named “headless Charlie” who was decapitated in an accident years ago. His head was recovered but the rest of him, much like the headless horsemen, was never found. After his death, many other miners would report hearing groaning and shuffling as if it was the ghost of Charlie searching for his lost head.

Today, standing on the cliff of these mines, the wind can play tricks on you, and you might hear what sounds like the echos of men trapped beneath the earth for eternity. Cries in the distance are a common occurrence, and here in the uneasy quiet, there is almost always something which can trick your mind into thinking it heard something quite not of this earth…or many it was just that.

Jason S. Voss

A BIG thanks to Jason S. Voss, who helped clear up a few facts for us! Jason has worked for the Jerome Historical Society and works for Jerome’s oldest local tour company, Tours Of Jerome. He is also an amazing local artist. Feel free to contact him for a personal tour of the city! Jason was a contributor to the book “Haunted Jerome” which just came out 3 months ago written by Midge Stueber and Pat Jacobson. If you’re interested in learning more about Jerome I would highly recommend you pick up a copy!

I’ve been to Jerome multiple times, and the people who live here LOVE telling stories. In addition to taking this walking tour, make time to chat with the locals as everyone seems to have had their own personal ghost encounter which they are eager to share! If you’ve ever had your own haunted happening let me know in the comments!

HAPPY HALLOWEEN ADVENTURERS

The post Explore the eerily beautiful haunted streets of Jerome, Arizona, on a self-guided walking tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. How to Get to Sintra & the Moorish Castle
   • When to Visit the Moorish Castle
2. Accessing the Moorish Castle
   • Uber
   • Walking to the Moorish Castle
3. Hours & Admission
   • Why Visit?
   • Accessibility
4. History of the Moorish Castle
   • King Alfonso VI
   • Castle of the Moors
5. Entrance to the Castle
7. Granaries
9. Archaeological Tombs
11. Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim
13. Stables
15. Cisterns
17. Castle Walls
19. Arms Square
21. Door of Betrayal
23. Wall Pathways
25. Tower Keep
27. Royal Tower
29. Happy Travel Adventurers

How to Get to Sintra & the Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is located in Sintra and easily accessible from Lisbon by trains leaving Rossio station. The trip requires no transfers and takes around 40 minutes. The round-trip journey costs just 4.50€, making it one of the most cost-efficient day trips. There are trains out to Sintra almost every 40 minutes. If you plan to visit the Moorish Castle as a part of a ‘Day Trip to Sintra,’ where you’ll see a few of the fantastic residences, I highly recommend getting the train before 8 am.

The train schedule changes slightly throughout the year, so I didn’t want to give you an exact time but leaving before 8 am means you’ll arrive before 9 am giving yourself plenty of time to get to your first destination with some time to spare before it opens. Sintra seems to explode with tourist buses as the morning wears on so early really pays off. But if you’re only planning on visiting the Moorish Castle, you don’t need to worry too much about crowds or leaving early. The Moorish Castle is the least crowded of all the sights since, even on busy days, the large open spaces allow everyone to spread out so it never seems too crowded.

When to Visit the Moorish Castle

Since the Moorish Castle is entirely located outside, visiting on a beautiful day will make your experience much more enjoyable. Winter is when you’ll find the least tourists, and if you can brave the weather, the almost abandoned appearance of the castle is something extraordinary to experience. Summertime can be a bit hot, so just be sure to lather on sunscreen if you’ll be out all day. Spring and Fall are the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is reliably the least busy time throughout the week to visit. Avoid holidays when possible, as these bring in Portuguese tourists.

Accessing the Moorish Castle

There are three options for getting to the Moorish Castle. The first is to take public buses located right outside Sintra Station. The bus to take is #434, which services the Moorish Castle. This bus tends to have pretty big lines up at the train station stop since everyone getting on needs to purchase their day ticket, which slows things down. But once you have your pass, it’s super easy to jump on and off throughout the day. Tickets for this bus cost 5€ for a 24-hour pass.

Uber

The second option is jumping in an Uber. Ubers are a great way to get around Sintra but be warned that because some of the streets are one way up a long and winding hill, some drivers might take a while to get to you or might cancel frequently. The Uber ride from the train station to the Moorish Castle is around 6€ depending on the time of day and the weather. If you’re travelling with 3 or 4 people, Uber can save you some money, and if there is a big lineup for the bus, it can save you some time. If you haven’t used Uber before, download the app and use my referral code, rds9f, to get $5 off your first ride!

Walking to the Moorish Castle

The third option is to walk. Walking from the train station to the Moorish Castle takes about 45 minutes, but if you’re keen on hiking, this is a great opportunity. There are maps of the hiking trails available at the tourist information centre. The best walk to take, which is the most direct, is the path via the Rampa do Castelo, which takes you through a shortcut directly up to the castle. I’ve added a map below to both the pathway to the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace since the free maps can sometimes be a little tough to follow, but the signage on the actual trails is quite good.

Hours & Admission

Since the Moorish Castle isn’t as insanely busy as Pena Palace, if you’re only visiting this one castle, you don’t need to worry too much about buying tickets in advance. Although buying them online in advance will save you 5% and also means it’s one less thing to do once you arrive. Tickets are valid for the entire year, so even if you buy them and plan on visiting one day, which gets rained out, you can easily change things around without being beholden to ticket dates and times.

You can also purchase them on your phone and show the e-ticket, no need to print out the physical document. If you can’t buy online in advance, there is a ticket booth at the entrance where you can buy them. Tickets for adults (18 – 64) cost 8€, youths (6 – 17) cost 6,5€ and seniors (over 65) are 6,5€. The castle is open from 9:30 am to 8 pm, with the last entry to the castle at 7 pm. The castle is open all year except December 25th and January 1st.

Why Visit?

Compared to sites like Pena Palace, the Sintra National Palace or the Quinta da Regaleira, the Moorish Castle might seem a little plain and uninteresting. There is no arguing that it is indeed the castle with the least amount of glitz, but what I found so impactful was the sheer depth of history you could feel within these walls. Pairing this place with the other castles was a stark contrast I appreciated, like a breath of fresh air. Some people skip this castle thinking it will be a little boring, but hiking along the ramparts was one of the most exciting parts of the day trip! I won’t miss it if you have the time!

Accessibility

Many people may not know when visiting this castle that the restoration project which took place to restore the castle was aimed at making it more accessible to people with mobility issues. In the depths of the forest, beside rocky cliff-sides and ancient ruins, you might be surprised to hear that there are special pathways all around the castle that visitors in wheelchairs can use. They have even made one of the castle’s wall lookouts accessible via a new wheelchair ramp to ensure all visitors get a glimpse across the countryside. I was so impressed when I researched this online and saw all the different accessibility ramps they can bring for those guests, even into a place built in the 9th century.

History of the Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is one of the oldest parts of Sintra. It was built in the 8th and 9th centuries by the Moors. “Moors” was a general term for the Muslim Moors from North Africa who came to Portugal. They brought with them their rich architectural histories, which generations would continue to be inspired by. This location was of mighty military power since it was located at a high vantage point above the town of Sintra, looking out over the River Tagus. From here, soldiers could keep guard against any incoming enemy ships. Sintra was a powerful township as the fields were full of fertile soil, and the farms around the hills were reliable producers of everything from grains to legumes.

King Alfonso VI

In 1093 a Christian crusade led by King Alfonso VI of Castile attempted to overtake the castle, but they were driven out by the overwhelming Moorish forces. But in 1147, the Christian forces of the Reconquista were finally powerful enough to take the castle from the Moors for the Christians. It was used for military defences during the 14th century, but eventually, it feels to ruins when it was no longer needed for security and more of the country’s power began to shift towards Lisbon as it was the city center.

Over the next few hundred years, it became almost completely abandoned. In the 15th century, when the Jews were expelled from Lisbon, they came here to live. But in 1636, a lightning storm caused a large fire which disseminated the castle, and a massive earthquake in 1755 levelled the remains of the battlements. Many thought that the castle would be lost to the ages as it sunk farther and farther into ruins.

Castle of the Moors

But when King Ferdinand II bought Pena Palace, he also took some interest in the Castle of the Moors. Ferdinand had a passion for history and took it upon himself to start preserving the remains of the castle and rebuilding the portions beyond repair. He loved looking at the stunning Moorish castle walls from his terrace, and when he visited the Moorish Castle, he could walk around the tower walls to the best view over his storybook castle found anywhere in Sintra. They both were like children to him, and the care (and financial aid) he sunk into these hilltop castles doesn’t go unnoticed even hundreds of years later.

Entrance to the Castle

While the entrance to the Moorish Castle, where you’ll find the ticket booth, is right off the side of the road, the journey towards the interior door is about a 15-minute walk from there, around the second ring of castle walls. You’ll stroll along a rolling pathway leading you around the castle’s exterior. Look up as you examine the old stone walls above the steep hillside around you. These secondary castle walls were built to protect the surrounding population and their animals and crops from invaders.

Granaries

Along the route toward the entrance, you can spot the excavated areas where a few large granaries were used to store cereals and legumes. These ingenious storage containers were brought to Portugal by the enterprising Moors.

Archaeological Tombs

Just outside the entrance, you’ll find an area where archaeological excavations were undertaken by King Ferdinand II. There, he found hundreds of bones buried under the soil. Today, there is a glass cover which reveals replicas of the skeletons which were discovered buried here. The King made a point to collect all the bones and inter them in a small tomb. The tomb is engraved with the symbol of a crescent and a cross and bears the following epitaph, “What man has joined only God will set apart.” In King Ferdinand’s time, this is because there was no way of telling if the bones were from the Christians or the Muslim inhabitants, and yet Ferdinand wanted to give them all a proper dedication.

Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim

In front of the main gates of the castle, you’ll find a small romantic-style chapel. This chapel, called Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim, was first built in the 12th century by King Afonso Henriques after the Christian invasion but was rebuilt by Ferdinand in a style he much preferred. The church now contains relics found on the site, some from the Neolithic area (5000 BC) and other important artifacts from the 10th-12th century Islamic cultures who lived here.

Stables

Upon entering through the Curtain Wall, to the left of the archway is the site of the old stables. A newly built stylized wooden structure is where you can find the Visitor Centre and get a map of the castle’s interior. It’s also where you can find the shop, washrooms and cafe. The cafe’s small terrace with a few patio tables is an excellent place to recharge if you hike all the way up to the castle or even if you need a short rest before walking up the castle walls.

Cisterns

Outside the stables, walk around and see if you can spot the two massive stone cisterns. These are covered in an iron grate in the shape of an Arabic star. These large vaulted cisterns were built in the 13th century, and the tanks held over 600 cubic meters of water. Access to clean water was the lifeblood of a secluded castle, and these water wells meant that the citizens could hold up inside the safety of the walls without ever having to go outside during war. The cisterns were so important that legend says that beneath them were the burial chambers of the Moorish kings. Take a peek down below to see if you spot any ghosts of King’s past.

Castle Walls

Take a closer look at the walls of the castle. See if you can make out the four distinct different layers of which they’re made up. Each one tells the story of the people who ruled over this structure. The first layer is made of granite blocks which rest on the bedrock over what was once an Islamic house and silos in the 12th century. The second phase was a reconstruction using ancient techniques made in the 12-13th century. The third phase was built in the 19th century when King Ferdinand took possession of the castle and helped with its restoration. The last stage was built in the 20th century when the castle became a tourist destination run by the government, and steps were taken to ensure its safety and strength for future generations.

Arms Square

The large open courtyard in the center of the castle is called the ‘Pracad de Armas‘ or Arms Square. This was where the military garrison would gather in the 13th century. When it was remodelled by King Ferdinand later in the 19th century, into a garden oasis. It was a space for contemplation and is still a beautiful area for people to sit and enjoy the view if they cannot manage the hike up the castle walls.

Door of Betrayal

In the centre of the Arms Square, you can spot a small wooden door, slightly hidden down half a level. Despite its ubiquitous appearance, this door has one of the darkest histories of the castle. It’s called the “Door of Betrayal” as the passageway provided discrete access to the castle’s exterior as a means of escape, or in another case, as a means to let the enemy inside the castle, hence the name; Door of Betrayal.

Wall Pathways

We visited on an especially windy day, and despite this, we walked the entire way to the top of the walls for a spectacular panorama across the countryside of Sintra. Walking up these walls, you feel like an explorer discovering ancient ruins. On a clear day, you can see across the Atlantic Ocean. We tried to spot all the locations we’d been to earlier in the day and were amazed at how far we’d walked!

Tower Keep

The first tower to visit along the walls of the castle is the Tower Keep. This was the stronghold where the local authorities would meet. It’s located at the highest point along the rampart and was where the guards had the best vantage points over the lands which needed protection.

From the Tower Keep, walk along the castle’s walls, making your way to the Royal Tower. This is where you’ll find the King’s favourite views over towards Pena Palace. You can still see flags flying high in the sky along the walls. One of the most significant flags is the green one, which has the word ‘Sintra’ written in Arabic as a dedication to the Moorish history of the palace.

Royal Tower

The Royal tower is the crowning glory of the castle. When you finally get to the top, the scenery is stupendous, perhaps made even more rewarding because of all the effort it takes to get there. You can stand holding the top flag pool and imagine yourself as one of the knights of the realm, looking out over the kingdom.

The walk down from the tower is much more leisurely, and although the landscape is the same going down as it was coming up, it seems different, almost like getting another angle on the entire vista. It’s incredible to observe the lush bushes, trees and flowers that sprout from within the rocks themselves. Things seem impossible to grow inside these rocks, yet these trees seem to be hundreds of years old. As old as the castle itself.

This brings us to the end of the tour; you can either make your way down to the bus stop, catch an uber, or hike the rest of the way back into town. I hope you enjoyed your time at the Moorish Castle; it was such a pleasant surprise when we visited, and well worth the effort climbing to the top! Let me know if the comment if you’ve ever travelled to Sintra and what your favourite castle you visited way!

Happy Travel Adventurers

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If you’re anywhere close to Sintra in your travels through Portugal, don’t miss out on visiting this fantastic place. This guide can be used both in conjunction with my ‘Day Trip to Sintra Guide,’ or if you’re just interested in visiting this one castle, it’s a great in-depth walkthrough of all the different historical details and artistic aspects of the Palace and Gardens.

Table Of Contents

1. How to Get to Sintra
2. When to Visit Pena Palace
3. Access, Hours & Admission
4. History of Pena Palace
5. Arches Yard
6. Wall Walk
7. Interior of the Palace
8. Entry Doorway
9. Queen’s Terrace
10. Cafe and Restaurant
11. Gardens of Pena Park

How to Get to Sintra

Sintra is easily accessible from Lisbon by trains leaving from Rossio station. The trip requires no transfers and takes around 40 minutes. The round-trip journey costs just 4.50€, making it one of the most cost-efficient day trips. While trains are out to Sintra almost every 40 minutes, I highly recommend getting the train before 8 am. The train schedule changes slightly throughout the year, so I didn’t want to give you an exact time but leaving before 8 am means you’ll arrive before 9 am giving yourself plenty of time to get to your first destination with some time to spare before it opens.

Sintra seems to explode with tourist buses as the morning wears on, so early really pays off. Any chance of being tired is worth it for the experience of arriving at Pena Palace without having to wait in huge lines and fight the enormous crowds to see what’s around you. Also, have a metro card loaded with funds to tap on and off the train or buy your train tickets in advance. Even super early in the morning, there was a lineup at the ticket counter. We were happy to have our pre-loaded metro cards, which meant we could just tap right on them, ensuring we made it onto the train in time. It was surprising how critical those few minutes were in the outcome of our day.

When to Visit Pena Palace

Pena Palace is always busy. Yes, the winter will most likely be the least busy, but it’s also chilly and can be a bit grey. Since most of the things to see are outside, it’s not always the most comfortable time to explore. The height of the summer holidays is equally as miserable but instead because of the intense heat and crowds. Springtime is the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is reliably the best chance you’ll have to see a small reduction in groups. Avoid holidays when possible as these bring in the Portuguese tourists. As mentioned before the earlier in the morning you arrive, the better chance you’ll have at beating the bus tours, which are the most significant crowd control issue.

Access, Hours & Admission

There are two (well three) options for getting to the palace. The first is to take the public buses which are located right outside Sintra Station. The bus to take is #434, which services Pena Palace. This bus tends to have pretty big lines up at the train station stop since everyone getting on needs to purchase their day ticket, and that slows things down and bit. But once you have your pass, it’s super easy to jump on and off throughout the day. Tickets for this bus cost 5€ for a 24-hour pass.

Taking an Uber

The second option is jumping in an Uber. Ubers are a great way to get around Sintra but be warned that because some of the streets are one way, up a long and winding hill, some drivers might take a while to get to you or might cancel frequently. The Uber ride from the train station to Pena Palace is around 6€ depending on the time of day and the weather. If you’re travelling with 3 or 4 people, Uber can really save you some money, and if there is a big line up for the bus, it can save you some time as well. If you haven’t used Uber before, download the app and use my referral code rds9f to get $5 off your first ride!

Walking to the Castle

The third option is to walk. Walking from the train station to Pena Palace is a pretty long journey, but if you’re keen to do some hiking, this is a great opportunity. Just leave yourself some extra time to hike up to the castle and still arrive at the gates for 9:30 am.

While the entry gates are located just off the roadside, the palace itself is a fair bit uphill from the main entrance. There is a mini-bus which runs up to the top, but it costs 3€ and more than the money, the line you need to wait in to get onto the bus is a huge inconvenience. Although a little long, the walk up is actually quite enjoyable. If you have mobility issues, just take it slow and spend the extra time resting in between spurts admiring all the beautiful flora and fauna in the garden.

Admission Options

There are two options for Pena Palace admission. One is to tour the palace’s exterior and royal gardens. The other option will get you entry into the interior of the castle. If you are confident you’ll arrive early and are keen on seeing the rooms inside, go ahead and buy that ticket. But the lineup to get inside can get insanely long. They need to control the number of people who enter the buildings (something which isn’t monitored outside), so this often results in lengthy queues.

We were there as close to the opening as possible, and even we had to wait about 20 minutes to get inside. When we left, the line looked to be almost 2 hours long. While I thoroughly enjoyed touring the interior, there is no way it’s worth 2+ hours of waiting in line. If you think you can miss the interior, the gardens, and the exterior ticket is an excellent option since I think the best parts of the castle are the exterior anyway. It will save you a few euros and potentially a lot of time. If you did purchase a ticket for the interior tour but the lineup to get inside is gigantic, I would advise coming back right before closing when the crowds have cleared out.

Hours

Pena Palace is open all year round except December 25th and January 1st. During the Summer (March to October), the palace is open from 9:45 am until 7:00 pm (last entry 6:15), and the park is open from 9:30 am until 8:00 pm (last entry 7:00 pm). In the Winter (October to March), the palace & park are open from 10:00 am until 6:00 pm.

When to Visit Sintra

Sintra is always busy. Yes, the winter will most likely be the least busy, but it’s also chilly and can be a bit grey. Since most of the things to see are outside, it’s not always the most comfortable time to explore. The height of the summer holidays is equally as miserable but instead because of the intense heat and crowds. Springtime is the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is the best chance you’ll see a small group reduction.

Avoid holidays when possible, as these bring in Portuguese tourists. As mentioned before, the earlier in the morning you arrive, the better chance you’ll have at beating the bus tours, which are the most significant crowd control issue. Always the most comfortable time to explore.

How Much Time to Spend?

Pena Palace, although the most popular spot to visit in Sintra, doesn’t take too much time to tour. We spent about 2 hours inside the Palace proper and another hour touring the gardens. If you wanted to tour the entirety of the acres and acres the gardens are spread out across you could be here all day, but to visit the entirety of the Palace and a general tour of the gardens would take around 3 hours. This doesn’t include waiting in line, so if you come on a busy day when the line up to get inside the interior is hours long this will obviously add to your time spent there.

If you find the line for the interior is too long and you want to see a lot of the gardens, consider doing the gardens first and then returning to the interior later on in the day. Sometimes if a huge tour bus drops off a few busloads just waiting for those groups to disappear is a great plan to avoid having to wait in line with them.

Is it Really Worth Visiting?

Pena Palace, although the most popular spot to visit in Sintra, doesn’t take too much time to tour. We spent about 2 hours inside the Palace proper and another hour touring the gardens. If you wanted to tour the entire garden, which is spread out across acres and acres, you could be here all day, but to visit the whole of the palace and a comprehensive tour of the gardens would take around 3 hours. This doesn’t include waiting in line, so if you come on a busy day when the line up to get inside the interior is hours long, this will obviously add to your time spent here. If you find the line for the interior is too long and you want to see a lot of the gardens, consider doing the gardens first and then returning to the interior later on.

History of Pena Palace

The Hieronymite monastery was built in 1503 in honour of the Virgin Mary, who is said to have appeared at the top of the mountain in a vision. After falling to ruins over the years due to religious upheavals, King Ferdinand II, who had been in love with this spot since he was a child, decided to buy the buildings and the surrounding lands. Construction of the new royal estate began in 1838.

Ferdinand was obsessed with romanticism in art and architecture. He wanted his contemporary summer house to feel like something out of a storybook. Oddly enough, the palace’s construction was taken on by a mining engineer, Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege. Perhaps this was because the Prince and his wife wanted their full say in the castle’s design. Yet they needed Eschwege’s planning prowess to help them achieve the look of a castle sprung forth from the rocks. There really is no one style to be found here. Instead, it’s a patchwork quilt of influences and themes. Ferdinand wanted to include Medieval and Islamic elements and Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Manueline. The Manueline architecture was the most iconic style in Portugal at the time. It was the millennial pink of its time.

Architecture

There really is no one style to be found here. Instead, it’s a patchwork quilt of influences and themes. Ferdinand wanted to include Medieval and Islamic elements and Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Manueline. The Manueline architecture was the most iconic style in Portugal at the time. It was the millennial pink of its time.

After the death of Ferdinand, the castle was inherited by his second wife, Elise Hensler, who became Countess of Edla. The Countess, under pressure from the crown, sold the estate back to the royal family with the one condition that she could continue to live there until her death. King Carlos, next in line to the throne, was the last member of the royal family to live in the palace. After his assassination, his son, Manuel II, became the last King of Portugal and his wife, Queen Amélia, was the last person who stayed in the palace until the republican regime brought an end to the Portuguese crown.

Entrance to the Palace

While the entry gates are just off the roadside, the palace is a fair bit uphill from the main entrance. There is a mini-bus which runs up to the top, but it costs 3€ and more than the money, the line you need to wait in to get onto the bus is a huge inconvenience. Although a little long, the walk-up is actually quite enjoyable. If you have mobility issues, just take it slow and spend the extra time resting between spurts admiring all the beautiful flora and fauna in the garden.

At the top of the hill, the golden yellow walls, blue tile and red-painted exterior of the palace begin to emerge from the trees. Seeing this palace in real life is nothing like seeing the pictures. I really don’t think they can do it justice. Walking up those cobblestone steps makes you feel like you’re walking into a fantasy.

Door of Alhambra

The entryway into the castle is called the Door of Alhambra. It was inspired by the Alhambra Door of Justice in Granada, Spain. The doorway is covered in brightly painted tiles and decorated with various elegant leaves. Ferdinand wanted this gateway to be where his visitors left the real world behind and stepped into his dream world.

The Coach Yard

Open passing through the archway, we step into the ‘Coach Yard.’ This was as far as horses and carriages could come, and guests would make their way to the palace on foot. Standing here, we can look up at the ‘Monumental Gateway.’ The gateway’s design is a blend of architectural elements found all over Lisbon and which the Prince wanted to see incorporated into his palace.

The facade is covered in diamond-shaped stones, referencing the Casa dos Bicos in Alfama. On either side of the top of the gateway, we have arched domes, completed with rope-like decoration; the same was on the famed Tower of Belem. The exterior is finished in a series of round balls reminiscent of the Cunhal das Bolas in Barrio Alto. In the centre of the arch, on the very top, is a pair of crossed swords atop a knight’s helmet, with a plume of lush feathers springing out of the top.

Upper Courtyard

Step through the archway and make your way around the swirling passageway to the upper courtyard. It’s here you’ll finally have the chance to study the tiles which make up the exterior hue of this building. Tiles, or Azulejos as they are called in Portuguese, have a strong history in Portugal, dating back to the 13th century. The Moors brought them here, who invaded much of Spain and Portugal in the 1200s. The word azulejo in Arabic means “small polished stone.” In Islam, they believed in aniconism, the avoidance of images of sentient beings in art. As such, geometric shapes became the most popular form of decor. As such, most of the tiles brought with them from Islam continue this tradition. The geometric and natural forms are striking, and their colours haven’t faded significantly over the years.

The Triton Portico

The Triton Portico is one of the most impressive elements of Pena Palace. Triton is meant to serve as an allegorical of the world’s creation. The facade is divided into two factions, the aquatic world below and the terrestrial world above. They are separated by Triton, a monster half man and half fish but a part of both worlds. Bits of corals surround Triton’s feet; above him, you can see the carved grape vines and leaves blossoming wildly. The Portuguese were a seafaring nation, and aquatic symbolism was always an important aspect of their artistic culture.

Azulejos

Tiles, or Azulejos as they are called in Portuguese, date back to the 13th century. They were brought here by the Moors who invaded much of Spain and Portugal in the 1200s. The word azulejo in Arabic means “small polished stone”.

In Islam, they believed in aniconism, which is the avoidance of images of sentient beings in art. As such, geometric shapes became the most popular form of decor and as such, most of the tiles brought with them from Islam continue this tradition.

Arches Yard

Walk underneath Triton’s arch out to the Arches Yard. The small passageway is where you’ll find the restrooms which are also covered in traditional tile work. The Arches Yard is framed by a wall of graceful, golden arches done up in Moorish style. The arches create a window onto the village of Sintra and across the countryside below.

There is nothing to compare this view to, it seems to go on and on forever on a clear day. From atop this peak, you can spy on all the wealthy estates below, one of which is actually owned by Madonna, the Queen of pop herself! Sintra truly is still to this day where the rich and famous come to escape the city and to live in some of the most lavish properties found anywhere in the world.

Convent of the Order of Christ

Take the chance to turn your eyes away from the incredible view, and look across towards one of the incredibly ornate windows on the main facade. This piece was directly inspired by the chapter house window in the Convent of the Order of Christ in Tomar. The window is surrounded in alchemical symbols, some of which seem to have a mystical aura. Much of Sintra’s more obscure lore lies in its prominence as a Masonic hub. The Convent of the Order of Christ was a 12th-century stronghold for the Knights Templar. Once its order was disbanded, it is said that the Masonic Temple was formed to continue its mission. It is rumoured that King Ferdinand was himself a grand master of the Masonic Order and as such, influenced much of Sintra’s history as a Masonic centre of power.

Chapel

Standing guard over the Arches Yard is the sizeable red clock tower atop the old monastery chapel. The steeple of the chapel is embellished with white and emerald green tiles which beautifully contrast the red and yellow walls and the blue (or grey in our case) sky.

The chapel remains unchanged from its 16th-century design. 22 monks would come to pray here during their time at the monastery. The walls are entirely covered in green and white polychrome tiles which still shine inside the darkened chapel. In a small alcove is the ornate alabaster and black marble altar made by Nicolau de Chanterene in 1532. The expressions which he managed to carve out of the solid marble defy earthly conventions making it feel all the more holy.

Remnants of the Monastery

Opposite the altar is one of the few remaining original stained glass windows from the monastery. The coloured used within this design are so striking, and it’s hard to believe this piece is a few hundred years old. I loved how quiet it was inside the church, it seemed most people skipped it as they were in a rush in those group tours, but I was glad to have stopped inside as it was a wonderful moment to pause and reflect on the beauty all around me.

Wall Walk

Just down the stairs from the chapel is the Wall Walk, a small passage which leads you around the back of the palace. While the narrow walkway looks over a steep hillside, the brave will be rewarded with one of the most unbelievable views across Sintra.

Standing on this side of the palace, you can see the Moorish Castle on the other side of the forest. It seems so far away, and yet the entrance to the Moorish Castle is just on the other side of Pena Park.

Interior of the Palace

If you bought a ticket to enter the interior, make your way inside. This part of the tour often gets very crowded, and the line can get long, so best to do it as soon as you enter when the line is bound to be shorter or if it seems rather long, skip it and make your way towards the gardens, with the intention to return here later in the day. The palace is made up of two separate wings. They are distinguishable by their paint colours. Ochre for the new wing and burnt red for the old monastic side.

Entry Doorway

A stunningly embellished door, surrounded in carved florals now serves as the way in for visitors to the palace. This was the entrance formerly used by the Royal Family, providing access to the palace’s most private areas. This building was once the Hieronymite monastery, and although the spaces were converted from simple rooms for prayer into luxurious royal residences, the bones of the original structure remain the same.

The Hieronymite Convent Cloister

As you enter, you’ll step right into the cloisters. Look up and see how the open-air hallways continue on both floors of the palace. The entirety of this place is covered in azulejos, and ghastly faces stare down at you, carved in the gargoyles above. The centre of the cloister has a giant carving of a shell in the centre which is held up by four little turtles. The open shell represents a womb, as this little scene is an allegory for the vegetal world giving birth to the aquatic underworld. Like the wealthy Portuguese Kings who, with their finances, gave birth to the world’s best seafaring explorers.

Scullery

The scullery is the first room you’ll enter from the outside cloister. In large, dark wood cabinets along the walls are porcelain and crystal flatware from the Royal collection. Set up on one table just to the right of the entry door is a sample of what their tea sets would look like. Tiny, little cups and plates in the shape of seashells are ready for a hot pot of tea and finger sandwiches.

Dining Room

One of the most impressive rooms you’ll see on the first floor is the dining room. The dining room has the most remarkable ceilings made of intricate ribbed vaults and lined in tiles. The table is set like they’re still awaiting their visitors. Each piece of furniture was made for this exact space, the images of Portuguese animals of the forest carved into the backs of the chairs. The rainbow coloured glassware still catching the light white pours through the windows. Even from the other side of the room, you can see how truly amazing the view from the interior really is.

King Carlos’ Bedrooms

After the death of King Ferdinand II, the palace passed hands several times but eventually became the residences of King Carlos and his wife Dona Améli in 1890. The bedrooms and apartments on the lower floors belonged to King Carlos. These apartments were initially the former Chapter House of the Manueline monastery. They were used by King Ferdinand II as his servants quarters, but King Carlos actually preferred this more modest setting and left the upper more elaborate apartments for his wife. King Carlos’ bedroom is decorated in dark wood, with bright green accents. The Empire style was an early-nineteenth-century design movement which was inspired by Neoclassicism and Romanticism, and each piece of furniture in this room was designed within that style. On the walls, there are splendidly painted emotional landscapes, and throughout the room, classical sculptures of attractive women of mythology make almost any spectator blush.

King Carlos’ Studio

The reverie continues into King Carlos’ studio. Here we find a mural painted across the entire room of nymphs and satyrs playing in the Park of Pena. This painting is believed to have been painted by the King himself, who was obsessed with filling his private quarters in these fantastical scenes.

King Carlos’ Bathroom

Pena Palace was one of the first royal residences to have sanitation facilities specifically designed for personal hygiene. Despite being a bathroom, the room is nevertheless filled with decorative garnishes. The bathrooms are filled with luxurious furniture and lined top to bottom in the most exceptional tile work.

The Interior Niche

A small corner niche which you’ll see before going upstairs contains one of the oldest treasures of the former Monastery. This little niche features a mosaic wall decorated with shells, stones and porcelain pieces. Since it was transformed into a simple storeroom, there was no need to remove the old decor to make way for more modern decorations therein preserving its history for the modern era.

Bedroom of the Queen’s Secretary and Ladies-in-Waiting

Next, we head upstairs to find Queen Amélia’s apartments. The first room we enter is the bedroom of the Queen’s ladies in waiting. Initially, when King Ferdinand II lived here with Countess of Edla, this room was a small dressing room, but when Queen Amélia moved in, she required more space for her servants and noblewomen. One of the most beautiful objects in the room is the Indo-Portuguese rosewood bed, carved to perfection like the wood was made from butter. Above the bed are plastered a knotted row of branches which blossom with hundreds of pine cones so lifelike you’ll think they might fall down upon your head.

The Queen’s Withdrawing Room

The yellow room adjacent is the Queen’s Withdrawing Room. It features a stunning bunting of plaster roses which hang from the crown moulding. Rose motifs are etched into almost every inch of the vaulted ceiling. More proof of Ferdinand’s obsession with romanticism and bringing nature into the interior of the home.

Queen’s Bedroom

The most opulent of all the rooms in the Queen’s bedroom. Moorish decorations cover the walls and ceiling in a way that literally makes your jaw drop. Geometric patterns repeat on the roof and spread out onto all the walls below. The designs are centred around bright gold stars covered in sumptuous gold leaf. The dark wooden bed is given a baroque treatment with swirling bedposts and a headboard which surges and swells like the waves.

Study of Queen Amélia

Outside the bedroom, you’ll find the study of Queen Amelia. Originally this was the music room, a room which acted very similarly to a modern day living room. This was where the family would listen to various musicians play traditional Portuguese instruments. Eventually, the room was transformed into the Queen’s study. Today, it is used to display silverware, weaponry and even the desks and stationary of Queen Amélia. The room’s wallpaper is made to look like carved stoned with faux azulejos in green and white accents.

Green Room

The green room provides another brilliant example of Trompe-l’ œil. Here the wallpaper is made to replicated flowers and branches as well as traditional architectural carvings. Although some of the paint is peeling, I love how this part was left unrestored as it makes the building feel more authentic and shows its real age!

Arab Reception Room

Past the royal chambers, we find the Arab Reception room. Looking at this room from afar you might be fooled into thinking the walls open up to the exterior and the ceiling is fantastically carved. But in fact, these are all optical illusions. This technique is called ‘Trompe-l’ œil’ which is French for “to deceive the eye”. Objects which exist in three dimensions are here created in a two dimensional forced perspective with nothing else but paint. The paintings were made in 1854 by esteemed Italian scenographer Paolo Pizzi. This technique was employed to make otherwise small spaces to make them feel grandiose to the guests who would be received for the first time in this room.

The Galleries

The next few rooms were once used as the abbot’s suite when the building was a monastery. These now contain different trinkets, treasures and works of art which belonged to King Ferdinand II. This part of the tour felt so special since you were looking at all these personal items which help you understand the personality of the man who once owned this castle. The little things which make a house, a home.

Smoking Room

In the smoking room, we find a vast Islamic dome covered in Mudejar art. A stunning neo-rococo chandelier hangs from the ceiling, covered in Venetian glass in the shape of ivy climbing all over the wrought iron frame. The candles site inside morning glory flowers, also made from that fantastical Venetian glass. The white walls are covered intricate textures which were created to replicate the look of traditional Indian lacework. This was my favourite room, it felt both immensely regal, which also being restrained and demure.

Queen’s Terrace

The Queen had access to one of the most astonishing parts of the castle, the south facing terrace. From here she could look out over the majestic Sintra countryside and the castle’s exceptional architecture. During the reign of King Carlos and Queen Amélia, there was a large metal structure erected on the terrace so the king and queen could entertain their guests outdoors during the summer. In the centre of the terrace are a large sundial and solar quadrant which once fired a small cannon throughout the day to announce the presence of the royal family or visiting dignitaries.

Noble Hall

Upstairs, Noble Hall is one of the most impressive spaces in the palace. Compared to the relatively small sized bedrooms, this receptions hall was where the King took advantage of space. It was here where large parties were thrown, and the who’s who of Lisbon’s high society would come during the summer.

The Noble Hall was inspired by the Ottoman Court. Iron replicas of Turkish kings are located on either end of the room, in their hands, they hold huge golden torches. Rich, red leather sofas on either side of the hall were designed with mirrored canopies behind them to make the room appear much larger than it is in reality. It was also an excellent way for the elite to spy on those around them and see just who is sharing secrets with who.

Stag Hall

One of the last rooms you’ll see is the Stag Hall. Originally it was supposed to be the banqueting hall, but construction was halted, and it never came to be. The central column, designed to looks like a giant tree trunk, was going to be the enormous round table which guest would eat around like knights of stories past. On all the walls there would have been antique weapons on display, and each of the windows would have contained pieces of archaic stained-glass themed with heraldic motifs. Since this new part of the castle was never finished, it remains somewhat unfinished looking with only stuffed deer trophies decorating the plain white walls and glass display cases featuring the pieces of stained glass planned for the windows.

Kitchen

The last room you’ll see is the old kitchen, a real hit with chefs and foodies. In here are all the original kitchen utensils, pots and pans and other old-fashioned culinary tools found in this old Portuguese kitchen. The kitchen felt enormous compared to the rather small interior rooms, but it must have taken an army to feed the great parties which were no doubt held here. The new kitchen was designed to be close to the Stag Hall since it was meant to be the main dining area, but unfortunately for the poor chefs, this never came to be.

Cafe and Restaurant

After touring the castle, the cafe located on the terrace is a great spot to grab lunch. Although the restaurant here is rather expensive, the cafe is surprising cheap with a selection of delicious Portuguese pastries, sandwiches and more. If you brought your lunch, this is also an excellent opportunity to break out the picnic. While there might be better places to eat in town, it would take ages to get there and back so instead, enjoy the regal atmosphere around and soak in the view.

Gardens of Pena Park

After finishing up at the palace, it’s now time to explore the gardens of Pena. The map they give you when you enter is really confusing, so its best to just keep that adventuring spirit in front of your mind and just wander the park. Don’t worry about getting lost, you’ll eventually stumble upon some signage, which always helped us get back on the right track. The gardens cover over 85 hectares of land around the castle. If you love hiking, you should definitely try to come out here and explore the entirety of the park. This could take you all day and is certainly not for those in a rush, but if you have the time to space, there are so many amazing things to discover.

Cruz Alta

You can hike to the very top of the gardens to find the Cruz Alta, located 529 metres above sea level. This stone cross is situated at the highest point of the Sintra hills. The cross is made of intertwined branches and created to mark to the where the explorer D. Joao III claimed this land for Portugal. Another famous landmark is the Statue of the Warrior. This stunning granite sculpture made in 1848 by Ernesto Rusconi is of a non-descript knight who represented all those idealized, romantic notions in which the parks and palace sought to embody.

Compared to the hundreds of people at the palace, these winding pathways around the gardens felt like your own private area. We were often the only ones there, and in spite of the confusing map, we had a blast exploring and getting lost all along the way. Ferdinand wanted these gardens to feel like wandering through a romantic forest where you wouldn’t be surprised to come upon nymphs drinking spring water from the fountains or unicorns grazing on fern trees.

Greenhouse

The Hot House, or greenhouse, can be found just past the Camellia Gardens. The greenhouses’ importance is notable by the fact that it is surrounded by large stone walls which aim to protect and highlight this spot. The greenhouse was equipped with its own plumbing system, and you can find the old furnace outside which was used to heat the greenhouse throughout the year. This was used to keep those precious flowers which needed warmth, safe throughout the colder winters. Having this greenhouse meant that Ferdinand could grow many different impressive flowers and trees, which otherwise would have been impossible to flourish outside of their natural environment. One more example of how this palace made the impossible possible.

Throughout the garden, you’ll spot everything from magnolias, Japanese Cryptomeria, Chinese ginko, American sequoia, cypress, red cedar, as well as tree ferns from New Zeland and Australia. No matter what time of year you come, there is almost always something flowering.

Islamic-style domed pavilion

In the lower portion of the gardens, you might be surprised to find an Islamic-style domed pavilion. Around the edge of the dome, written in Arabic are the words “The Sultan D. Manuel built this chapel blessed in the name of Our Lady Mary of Pena, in the year 1503, in celebration of the safe return of Dom Vasco da Gama’s discovery of the lands and countries which he found…” The King was never a Sultan, but it’s just one more way that we can see how Ferdinand really loved a fairytale story, even about himself.

Further down, closer to the roadside entrance to the park, you’ll find the Grotto of the Monk. This was once a modest medieval garden where the Hieronymite monks would come to retreat the monastery and meditate in the peace and quiet of the forest.

Duck Houses

One of the last things in the park to explore before you exit are the Duck Houses. These stone towers look more like minature forts, but when you look closer at their tiny doors, you might catch a glimpse of a family of ducks making their way home. These were such a delight to Ferdinand’s guests, as everyone got a good laugh out of these ducks with their very own castle, within in a castle.

The duck houses mark the end of the tour. They are located at the official entrance to Pena Park. If you’re continuing on from here, it’s a short 10-minute walk over to the Moorish Castle, or you can hop on bus #434 to get back to Sintra station. While many people make Pena Palace a part of their day trip to Sintra, if you choose to explore the entirety of the park and spend some quality time inside the palace, you can easily dedicate an entire day to this wonderland. I hope that either way, you decide to visit this incredible site. I hope that you have a great time exploring all these secrets I’ve uncovered for you and that you share with me any new ones you discover!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of Pena Palace, Sintra first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

I asked the locals, trying to get their honest opinion. I was surprised to hear how positively even the locals, not just the tourists, spoke about it! With so many resounding responses we decided to make our way down to Xochimilco. To see what all the fuss was about. And let me just say right off the bat, it was my favourite thing we did while in Mexico City! And I would implore everyone to go and see it for themselves.

Guide to Xochimilco

1. History
2. Access
   • Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas
   • Bus to Xochimilco
   • Group Tours
3. The Trajineras
4. How Much does a Trajinera Cost?
   • Groups and Collectivos
5. Food
6. La Isla de Las Muñecas
7. Entertainment along the Canal
8. Artisans & Merchant Boats
9. Bathrooms?
10. Other Sights along the way
    • Our Experience

History

Xochimilco is the Venice of Mexico. It’s an enormous network of canals which spread across this southern district of Mexico City. There are over 170 km of canals which spread out in all different directions. Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico City, the indigenous people of Mexico had created an incredible network of canals. They used these both as a means of transport and as a way to ensure there was a constant supply of water throughout the country.

Xochimilco means “Floating Gardens” as the Aztecs filled the land with thousands of flowers and vegetation. These fields were called chinampas and were artificial agricultural plots rich in minerals. After the Spanish invasion, they dried up many of the canals in the centre of Mexico City in order to make room for modern roads. But the canals in Xochimilco remained. Today, Xochimilco is UNESCO World Heritage Site as it preserves this Aztec technology.

Access

To access Xochimilco my recommendation would be to take an Uber or find a local guide. Local guides can be both your driver as well as a local ‘fixer’ along the way. If you simply want to get an Uber there are plenty of drivers always on the road to get you there and back. The trip takes about 45 minutes depending on where you’re staying in the city. But there can be heavy traffic at peak times of day which will increase the time and cost. A one-way ride with Uber costs around $10-$15 USD but if there is heavier traffic it could be as much as $25. That’s still very cheap for a 45-minute ride but just something to keep in mind.

Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas

Be sure to arrive at the ‘Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas‘. There are multiple embarcaderos, or ‘piers’, which service the canals. But the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas is the official pier to catch your boat and where you’ll find the most honest pricing. It’s also where you’ll find food, shopping and restrooms. If you’re taking an Uber to the pier you might find that along the way, people on bikes will stop your Uber along the way. They’ll tell you that the pier is closed and you need to access the canals through an alternative embarcadero. This is completely untrue and a scam to get you to access their alternative dock.

We asked a local if they’ve ever taken the route the bikers lead them on just to test out the scam. He said he had and was brought to a less than savoury-looking entrance. There he found only a few meagre boats which had clearly seen better days. He passed on their offer for a ride and then headed over to the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas. Which was, of course, not closed at all!

Bus to Xochimilco

If you want to save some money you can always take the bus. The metro is another option but the bus requires only one mode of transportation. Whereas the metro requires a few transfers. Take the bus number 47-A-XAlameda Oriente towards Xochimilco / Bosque de Nativitas. It takes about an hour depending on traffic and costs 30 pesos (about $2).

Group Tours

You can also access Xochilmilco with a group tour. These are often combined with trips to the Frida Khalo Museum or the Pyramids of Teotihuacan. If you really want a huge, group party type of atmosphere then this is the best way to get it. Personally, I find these tours a little pressed for time, often rushing you around from place and to place. I like to take things at my own pace so we chose to do this on our own. But if you’re short on time and want to see all these destinations this is a great option.

The Trajineras

‘Trajinera’ is the name for the iconic brightly coloured boats which float up and down the canals. They have flat bottoms and float throughout the canals, pushed along by a long wooden ore. The boat is controlled by your rower, just like a gondolier. In the center of the boat is a large table and about a dozen chairs on either side. So you can have an entire group ride on the same boat! The covered roof is perfect for keeping the sun off on hot days. But if you want to sit out in the sunlight the front of the boat has ample room.

The boats are vibrantly painted to resemble the flowers which used to grow on either sides of the canals hundreds of years ago. Each boat is given a different name. Half the fun is looking at all the different unique names. You can even call ahead (if you have a local to help) to get your name painted onto a boat. This is perfect for birthdays, bachelorette parties or quinceaneras.

How Much does a Trajinera Cost?

Getting a Trajinera inexpensively isn’t something you should expect when you come to Xochimilco. This isn’t one of those super budget-friendly excursions. The maximum rate set by the city is 500 pesos per hour, per boat (not per person as some tricky boatmen might quote you). You can try and haggle your way down but unless you have a good grasp on Spanish haggling, you’ll find it pretty difficult. I generally go with the set price as it’s a great deal and well worth the price you pay. Remember to tip your boatman at the end of the trip! Most of the money you pay at the start goes to his boss and the actual driver sees little of that. So a nice tip will go a long way for them.

Two-hours is the minimum time you can book as the boat drivers need to make it worth their while. I would go for two or three hours since it takes a while for them to get the boats out of the dock and away from the most crowded areas. When we first went we only booked two-hours and I honestly wish we’d gone out for longer!

Groups and Collectivos

If you meet fellow travellers along your travels it’s always worth asking them if they’re interested in a trip out to Xochimilco and that way you can save a bit of money going in as a group. Just be warned that you need to arrive as a group, not just glom onto other tourists who are asking about pricing who are already at the docks. There is also the ‘collectivo’ boat. This larger motorized boat runs every half an hour and only costs 30 pesos each way. It only runs back and forth from one station to another so its a much shorter, less leisurely ride, but if you’re looking for a budget option, this is it!

Once you have secured your boat, you set out from the dock into the canal. Most of the boats are located near the pier and blocked in by dozens of other boats. I didn’t even think it would be possible for us to get out but they did it! Make your way through the field of trajineras into the open water. This felt a little bit like a giant version of bumper cars and was so interesting to watch our driver make his way through the pile of rainbow-coloured boats.

Food

You are allowed to bring whatever food and drinks you want with you on the Trajineras. Just a few minutes away from the main pier is the Mercado Xochimilco, a great place to grab some fresh snacks and delicious treats. There are also various food stalls located along the pier when you arrive at the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas.

Depending on what day of the week you visit will change what’s open (the weekdays tend to have fewer stalls and sellers open than the weekends), but there’s always something to buy both on land and on the water. That’s right, there’s food available throughout the canals as you travel. Vendors with roasted corn, coconut water, tacos, cold beer and freshly made micheladas float up and down the canals. The prices are more than you’d pay in the market but you pay for the privilege of having them coming right to your boat!

La Isla de Las Muñecas

‘The Island of the Dolls‘ or ‘La Isla de Las Muñecas‘ is a famous attraction along these canals. You probably have seen it on Anthony Bourdain or Buzzfeed Unsolved. Many boatmen will say they’ll take you to the island in 2 hours but the truth is the real island is about 5 hours out from the main pier. There are various replicas of the island you’ll see along the main route but these are not the original. While I think a 5 hours journey might be a little much for most people, the farther out you go the more and more in touch you’ll get with the empty expanses of natural canals and yes, you’ll eventually come to the island of the dolls. Most people who really want to visit the island chose to hire a motorboat to bring them out to the island.

This place is infamous for being one of the most haunted places in Mexico City. Legend has it that the island’s caretaker daughter drowned in the canals after losing her favourite doll in the river. To honour the drowned girl’s spirit the father began collecting dolls and placing them all over the island. He began with a small altar surrounded with dolls and when he ran out of room began hanging the dolls all over the trees on the island. Being left out in the elements the dolls have begun to rot and take on a ghastly appearance. While the reproductions of the islands along the main canals aren’t the real thing, they are pretty interesting to see as you float along.

Entertainment along the Canal

As soon as we set off into the canals, the sound of musicians playing across the waters can immediately be heard. Mariachi bands floating on their own individual boats float down the river. As they pass you by they’ll offer to board your boat and play a song or two or really as many as you want! Songs cost about 150 pesos per number but are cheaper the more songs you want. We floated by and listened to various other boats with their mariachi bands and it sounded like so much fun that when one approached us we couldn’t refuse the offer.

We hired them for simply one song and asked our guide to choose his favourite tune to get played. It felt so special to have a group of almost 10 musicians board our boat and play just for us. In addition to the mariachi bands, you’ll also see various smaller boats with only 2 to 3 people playing the xylophones as they float down the canal. So much music fills these canals, then entire place feels like a giant party even in the middle of the week when we were told it would be a fairly calm day. One can only imagine has loud and exciting it would be on the weekend when this place is filled to the brim with people!

Artisans & Merchant Boats

As you float down the river people also come up to you on their boats selling various souvenirs and craft goods. You’ll see some selling embroidered blankets, others selling flower crowns inspired by the ancient flower fields. You’ll see wooden toys, traditional Mexican dolls and mini replicas of the Trajineras. While this might not be the cheapest place to buy souvenirs the experience of purchasing them on the water is pretty unique and makes for a great story.

Bathrooms?

We happily drank and ate as we floated down the river and the farther and farther out we got the more and more peaceful and quiet the canals became. When we were about an hour out from the docks, almost no boats remained with us. The canal was almost empty except for our boat and the occasional corn or drink seller. The lush trees contrasted perfectly against the bright blue sky. With all that eating and drinking you might be wondering, “how do you go to the bathroom?” Sounds like an odd question but it’s a very important one. Well, fear not! Many of the homes on the edges of the canal have installed their own public washrooms at the end of their lot.

The boats simply pull up and dock near the edge of the canal and you hop out. Most of these cost about 20 pesos but trust me when you need to go you’ll be more than happy to pay the money. They’re relatively clean but I would always recommend using hand sanitizer after using them since the water isn’t potable.

Other Sights along the way

Other things you’ll see along the canals are everything from florists to independent zoos where you can see some the amazing wildlife that lives in these rivers. A lot of these are a little bit of a tourist trap and while we didn’t see the need to go and visit them it was neat to pass them by.

Our Experience

Since we visited on Wednesday, the river was relatively calm and I could only imagine how busy it would’ve been in the weekend when hundreds and hundreds of people come here to celebrate and also just relax with their friends. Almost like an open-air park. We saw there were signs on the outside of houses along the canals selling everything from hot chocolates to coffee to fresh tacos and while most of these were closed, only open on weekends, it was still interesting to see how all the neighbours which face onto the canal have made a life serving the people of their community.

As we floated down the river we saw four boats all tied together having an enormous party. The music could be heard from miles as well as their laughter and jaunty singing. It looked like so much fun and we waved ‘hola’ to them as we passed by. They all waved back to us with huge smiles on their faces. Everyone in the canal in some way felt like family, and I loved that feeling of being surrounded by loving, happy people.

The Titanic

The name of our boat was ‘Titanic’ and our guide told us that this name had been requested by a Mexican comedy show which visited the canals a few months previously. They thought the name would be a funny one for the little skit they were filming there. It was indeed very funny and every other boat we passed would get a good chuckle as we floated past them.

I loved this trip so much and absolutely didn’t wanted to end! As the day has wore on, more and more people began to float the river and on our way back to the dock we past dozens of happening parties on their way out. We finished our day in Xochimilco with a meal by the river, so we could still enjoy watching the boats and people pass by. We ate at one of the small restaurants near the Embarcadero where they even moved a table to their outside patio just for us, it felt like a private room just for us!

All my hesitations and worries about visiting here couldn’t have been further from the truth of this magical place! While you might think it would be touristy, we saw very little tourists when visiting. It was mainly locals we saw enjoying themselves and spending time with family and friends. If you have any doubts about visiting I would push those aside and do everything you can to make it out here. It truly is something so unique to Mexico City and an adventure you won’t soon forget.

The post Ultimate Guide to the Fantastical Floating Gardens of Xochimilco, Mexico City [UPDATE 2022] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. The Legend of Enoshima
3. Beaches
4. Should I get the Enoshima Day Pass?
5. Dragon's Gate
6. Waterfront
7. Nakamise Shopping Street
8. Enoshima Torii Gates
9. Zuishinmon
10. Benzaiten Goddess statue
11. Entering Enoshima Shrine
12. Hetsumiya
13. Chinowa
14. Ho-an-den
15. Nakatsunomiya Square
16. Nakatsunomiya Shrine
17. Samuel Cocking Garden
18. Enoshima Sea Candle
19. Enoshima Daish
20. Enoshima Pilgrimage Path
21. Okutsunomiya Shrine
22. Wadatsumi-no-miya
23. Love Bell
24. Uonemotei
25. Iwaya caves
26. Ferry Boat

Access

Enoshima is accessible by three train, each of which has its separate station. Depending on where you’re departing from will determine which line is best for your trip. If you’re departing from Tokyo the best options is the express train from Shinjuku station which will take you to Fujisawa station. From here you can board a local train to Katase Enoshima Station. One way tickets for this route costs 630 yen and takes around 65-75 minutes. If you’re planning on visiting Kamakura and other locations around the area, consider buying the Odakyu Railways Enoshima/Kamakura Free Pass which is 1470 yen and gives you unlimited use of trains between Fujisawa and Kamakura and Odakyu trains between Fujisawa and Enoshima.

The Legend of Enoshima

Understanding the legend which surrounds this island will help you understand the people and the history of this place.

There was once an evil dragon, with five heads, who settled in the bottomless swamp among the mountains of Fujisawa and tormented the people of the village. The peasants feared the dragon like no other as he would steal their children away in the middle of the night. Then, one day, an immense clouds enveloped the sea, and an earthquake erupted. From the clouds emerged a heavenly maiden, Benzaiten, and from the sea she brought with her an island, Enoshima Island. The dragon fell in love with the maiden and proposed to her but she refused him because of all the evil things he had done.

The dragon spent the next few years trying to mend his evil ways. He even turned himself into stone to show her how much he loved her. Eventually, the maiden forgave the dragon for the things he had done wrong and freed him from the stone mountain which had formed around him. After he was set free, they were married. Today the maiden Benzaiten still guards Enoshima along with the dragon, who now also protects the Islanders.

Beaches

If you’re visiting Japan in the summer, the city can get pretty warm so escaping to a beach might be just what you need on one of those hot, humid days. Enoshima has some of the best beaches close to Tokyo and although they can get crowded, arrive early to pitch your towel and relax on the sand all morning long. Japanese crowds are so polite and organized, even if it’s crowded when you arrive you’ll find it easy to squeeze in.

Should I get the Enoshima Day Pass?

The Enoshima Day Pass (separate from the Odakyu Railway Pass) costs 1000 yen and gives you access to the Samuel Cocking Garden, observation tower and the caves as well as the use of the escalators used to get up and down the island’s hills. You can always buy individual tickets for the escalators but they cost 300 yen each way. The gardens with observation access and the caves each cost 500 yen to enter so the pass pays for itself in those fees alone. But that’s only if you’re planning on visiting these two sites. If not, the pass isn’t worth it.

If you do end up with the pass and you’re feeling a little tired by the time you near the top, you’ll be able to ride the escalators free of charge! I still prefer the stairs myself but if you have a disability or just aren’t feeling up to it that day, the pass is definitely a good choice.

Dragon’s Gate

Walking from the train station towards the island, across the causeway, is one of my favourite parts of visiting the island. The pedestrian walkways towards the island is wonderfully decorated with statues and fantastically manicured gardens, framing the ascent to the island perfectly. As you approach, you’ll pass through the dragon-shaped stone lanterns which are the gatekeepers of the island. It’s amazing how different the landscape here is from Tokyo, you can smell the air blowing off the ocean.

Waterfront

The waterfront on Enoshima island on the north side is vastly different front the south, were the famed Iwaya caves are located. This part of the island has a steep drop off towards the waters looking out at Sagami Bay. There is a small park along the waterfront with a few dozen small sculptures to gaze at. This park is dedicated to both the Olympics, held here in 1964 as well as representations of the Goddess Benten whom the entire island is named after. I decided this was a great place to have a quick snack before my hike up the hill.

Nakamise Shopping Street

As you approached the staircase towards the first shrine you’ll pass under a large set of bronze torii gates. Behind these gates are dozens of souvenir shops and small restaurants. These are all run by locals and have an immense charm to them. So even if the items their selling don’t seem super bespoke to Enoshima, they are still a pleasure to browse inside.

Enoshima Torii Gates

At the end of Nakamise Street you’ll find yourself approaching the bright vermillion Torii gates, before Enoshima Shrine. These torii gates symbolise the passing from the mortal realm into the realm of the gods. As you pass through, try to clear your mind, and connect with yourself in a deep and meaningful way. I find that when travelling sometimes things are so busy and hectic and this moment is a reminder to reflect and remember instead of just go, go, go.

Zuishinmon

Past the torii gates is a large wooden tower, this is the ‘Zuishinmon Gate’. The design of the tower was based on a fairytale underwater palace called ‘Ryugujyo’. On the underside of the structure are carvings of peonies and lions on the walls and ceilings. These symbolize a prayer to protect the Goddess and their worshippers.

Benzaiten Goddess statue

Behind the tower gate you’ll meet face to face the Benzaiten goddess. Here she sits, carved in stone, nestled in with her follows, surrounded by the fabled dragon whom she defeated for the people. This statue was made in 1450 yet feels so fresh and new, despite its age.

Entering Enoshima Shrine

The Enoshima Shrine, is made up of three main buildings. The Hetsumiya, the Ho-an-den and the Nakatsumiya. Before entering any of the buildings, be sute to stop by the ‘temizuya‘. The temizuya or chōzuya is a Shinto water absolution pond for a ceremonial purification rite known as temizu. To perform the ritual, just fill the ladle provided with water and wash your left hand, then your right, and if you want, drink some of the water and spit it out to cleanse your mouth. If you’re scared to do it wrong, simply watch others and you’ll get the hang of it in no time. It feels nice to participate in this ritual as it connects you with the spiritual nature of the shrine itself.

Hetsumiya

The main building in one this level is the Hetsumiya. The original wooden building with a traditional copper winged roof, was built in 1620 by Minamono no Sanetomo, the third Shogun of Kamakura Shogunate. The current version was re-built in 1976 in the exact style as the original. Inside this buildings is where the Tagitsuhime-no-Mikoto are enshrined. The Tagitsuhime-no-Mikoto are three sister goddess who are known to control the seas, which feels so appropriate as you are surrounded by the sea on all sides on the island.

Inside the Shrine you’ll see a large metal box where you can make an offering. If you’ve never made an offering at a shrine before here is how you do it. Stand in front of the offertory box, throw a coin into the box, bow twice towards the shrine, then clap your hands twice and think deep in your mind of the wish you want to come true. Then, finish the ritual by bowing deeply towards the offertory box once more. A little wish for luck never hurt anyone and you can feel good that your money is going towards keeping the shrine up and running.

Chinowa

Beside the Hetsumiya you might be puzzled by a green ring standing off to the side. This is the chinowa, an object used to cleanse your mind and body as you pass through the ring. It is said to remove all your wrongdoings and impurities.

Ho-an-den

The Ho-an-den is a small, bright red, octagonal building where you can see the famous statue of the deity Benzaiten. This building costs 200 yen to enter and is the only shrine on the island which requires payment to enter. Unlike many other statues of the Benzaiten, this one is nude, sitting on a pedestal playing a biwa. Benzaiten is very important to women, as she is the only female deity of the seven gods of fortune. If you are really interested in the statue it’s worth visiting but I personally prefer the statue you see on your way up the stairs and had a better time admiring the fantastical exterior architecture of the building instead of going inside.

Ema

If you’re feeling unlucky in love, be sure to buy an ’ema’. An ema is wooden prayer plaque from the shrine where you can write your wish for love onto. Then hang it with the rest of the wishes, blowing gently in the wind atop the island. This shrine is fabled to be particularly good for matchmaking!

Nakatsunomiya Square

Before heading up to the next level, spend some time wondering around Nakatsunomiya Square. This little garden with a observation deck of the city below, is always full of seasonal blooms and if you’re lucky enough to visit during Cherry Blossom season, you’ll be in for a real treat. Since these trees and their blooms up here are perfectly hidden away from the crowds you have a much better chance of getting to experience Japan’s most popular symbol without fighting for space.

Nakatsunomiya Shrine

The second shrine site on the island is found just around the corner and up the hill from Enoshima Shrine. This is Nakatsunomiya, the oldest shrine on the island, established in 853 by the Buddhist monk En-nin. The frieze above the door to the shrine contains over 154 carvings of various real and mythological flora and fauna popular on the island. You could stand here for hours and never be able to find them all.

Samuel Cocking Garden

The Samuel Cocking Gardens were built in 1880 by British merchant Samuel Cocking. Cocking collected tropical plants from every corner of the world he travelled to but he settled in Japan after finding love on the island. Originally the Japanese government only allowed locals to purchase land but when the laws where changed, Cocking saw his chance to buy up some of the best real estate on the island.

After the couples passing, the title of the gardens was passed onto the city of Fujisawa who saw it’s reconstruction after the great earthquake. Today, you can explore a variety of flowers found not only in Japan but all over the world. From February to March there are 250 different breeds of camellia flowers blooming and from May to October dazzling crimson roses from Canada begin to blossom. My favourite part of the gardens was the dynamic landscaping. There were archways created with hanging baskets, gazebos surrounded in blooms and beautiful mazes you could wander in dazzling colours.

Enoshima Sea Candle

In the middle of the garden stands the giant 200 foot tall Enoshima Sea Candle. From the observation tower you can see all across Enoshima, Fujisawa and beyond. On a rare clear day, you have an absolutely stunning view of Mount Fuji. The Day I visited the Mountain was unfortunately still in hiding, but the view just down to the lush green gardens was incredible and well worth the money to come up the tower. I loved looking out across the brilliant blue seas. Living in a city not near an ocean, there is something truly mesmerizing to me about the ocean and I could have stared at it for hours.

Enoshima Daish

Past the Gardens, you’ll come upon the unmistakable Buddhist temple of Enoshima Daishi. During the Meiji Period, there was a governmental separation between Shintoism and Buddhism. Buddhist temples all over Japan were destroyed and it wasn’t until the 1990’s that Enoshima residents had the chance to rebuild one of their most important temples on the island, Enoshima Daishi. Standing in front of the steps into the temple are two huge, six-meter tall statues of Fudomyo, the protector of Buddhism. Staring up at them as you enter is an intimidating process and made me a little skittish when stepping down into the temple, but I guess that just means they’re doing their job.

Inside the temple, there is a blend of modern and traditional Japanese architecture. But what continues to stand the test of the time is the peaceful feeling you get when you come inside the incense soaked temple. There was a man praying when I came inside who later told me he had come all the way from Kyoto just to pray here today, and it made the temple’s significance all the more powerful to me.

Enoshima Pilgrimage Path

Descending down from the top of Enoshima is almost as much work as climbing up. It’s around 250 steps down to the bottom but the journey downwards provides so many different things to see along the way. This pathway is known as Oiwaya-michi or the Pilgrimage way. This pathway was taken by thousands of people over the year who made their way to the Iwaya Caves. Various houses found along the stairways are covered in beautiful seashells, a testament to the love of the sea which these residents have. As you descend, you’ll get amazing views of the cliff side and the sea below. One of the views to the left of the staircase is down to Yama-futatsu, a vallery where the mountain to the east and west connect.

Okutsunomiya Shrine

As you descend from the top of the island you’ll come upon the last of the shrines, this is Okutsunomiya Shrine or “Shrine of the Deep”. Inside this shrine it is said that the sea goddess rests during the winter inside a cave and when the summer returns, the goddess will emerge once more to protect the sea. The stone torri gate which welcomes you into the shrine is from 1138, a gift from the Shogun of Kamakura.

The two red lanterns on either side of the shrine depict Otohime (on the right) and Urashima Taro (on the left). Otohime is the princess of the undersea palace Ryūgū-jō and Urashima Tarō is the fabled fisherman who, after recusing a sea turtle, is rewarded for his good deed by being brought to the undersea palace. For this turtle was no ordinary turtle, he was the all-seeing turtle of the deep. The fisherman was entertained and cared for inside the undersea palace by the princess. If you look closely on the ceiling of the shrine, you’ll see the All-seeing turtle from the story. The turtle is also called the one who watches all directions, since no matter which direction you look, the turtle appears to be looking right at you!

Set beside the temple you’ll see a large stone surrounded by the paper lightning bolts which also are hung from torri gates. This stone is the Chikara-ishi. A Chikara-ishi is a “stone of strength” which are often seen at shrines as they represent the strength which the gods bestow upon their followers. This stone weighing 320kg, which is said to have been brought to the shrine by the most power man in the nation.

Wadatsumi-no-miya

Beside Okutsu-No-Miya-Jinja shrine you’ll find Wadatsumi-no-miya. Unlike the other shrines, this one is more like a rock cave, with a bright green dragon perched on top. This is Ryujin, the dragon god of the sea, and it is said that inside is where he is enshrined. You can peek your head inside the cave during the day through a small screen, and in the deep, dank dark, there was moment where I thought I saw a small pair of eye in the darkness…

Love Bell

A few steps up from the shrines, there is a small, overgrown trail which will lead you to a little hill with an incredible view of the ocean. Atop this hill stands the ‘Love Bell‘. Since the legend of Benten and the dragon falling in love with her is so important to the mythology of the island, this bell was purchased and placed here by local couples who wished to express their undying love for each other, much like the dragon and the goddess. Each of the donors had their names engraved on the structure surrounding the bell.

Every couple who now visits this site has their chance to ring the bell to announce their undying love to the dragon and maiden. Couples have begun leaving locks on the surrounding fence with the names engraved upon them. Every year the locks have to be removed so the fence does not collapse. So maybe the locks won’t last a lifetime, but hopefully, your love will.

Uonemotei

If I can suggest one place to eat on your tour of the island it HAS to be Uonemotei. This restaurant has been here for over 140 years. It has been serving locals and pilgrims alike delicious food, right from the sea. Sitting out on their patio you have a beautiful view of the ocean and can smell the refreshing sea breeze. The house special is the “Enoshima-don” which are young sardines served with turban shells and beaten eggs atop warm rice. This is the best thing you can eat to experience true Enoshima cuisine.

Iwaya caves

Unless you’re a HUGE fan of caves or have the Enoshima Day Pass, I would skip this. The reason being they are hugely touristy and crowded and you’ll have more fun exploring the rocky seaside around them instead. Inside the first cave you’ll find Buddhist statues, and in the second you’ll find a small pond dedicated to the dragon who used to terrorize the area. During the Nara era, Buddhist monks used to be trained here in the cave, so visiting the caves was somewhat of a pilgrimage for Buddhists all over the world. Overall though, it’s a pretty simple cave and your time and money is better spent elsewhere on the island unless you have the day pass.

Around the caves, you’ll see dozens of little reefs where local fisherman are almost always camped you trying to get the catch of the day. I had a relaxing time sitting out on the rocks, near where the waves would crash against the rocks, getting sprayed every time a huge wave would come in.

Ferry Boat

To head back to the train station, I recommend taking a ferry boat ride. Throughout the day there are little ferry boats which run back and forth from the mainland to the island. Head over to the Bentenmaru pier where you can board one of the little boats. The ride isn’t very long but seeing the island from the water is a very unique perspective that gives you an idea of the scope and size of Enoshima. It’s a great opportunity to step back, literally, and see the place you just came from from afar. Look right up high and you can see the top of the Enoshima Candle and the Enoshima flag which flies high above.

Enoshima is truly one of the best place to go to take a break from the city and get a breath of FRESH air. If you have even half a day, or better yet a whole day, you NEED to make your way out here and experience another side of life in Japan.

The post The Best Self Guided Tour of Enoshima Island; Amazing Day Trip from Tokyo first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

For many people travelling to Japan, time is short, and you need to pack in as much as you can. Even if you only have time to go to Tokyo, Hakone is easily doable as a day trip from the city. Getting out of town, even for just the day, is such a valuable experience to see another side of this country. I’d recommend spending the night in Hakone if you have the time since seeing it at night and early in the morning when all the day trippers aren’t filling the streets is absolutely incredible. Plus, extending your trip overnight gives you to an opportunity to see sunrise and sunset across Lake Ashinoko.

24 Hours in Hakone

1. Transportation
2. Hakone Free Pass
3. Departing Shinjuku Station
4. Hakone-Yumoto Station
5. Shōtenga
6. Hakone-Tozan Railroad
7. Hakone Open-Air Museum
   • Footbath
8. Gora Station
9. Gyoza Centre
10. Gora Park
11. Lunchtime around Gora Station
12. Cable Car
13. Owakudani
14. Togendai Boat Cruise
15. Hakone Shrine
16. Stay Overnight

Transportation

If you’re departing for Hakone from Tokyo, be sure to travel via Shinjuku Station on the Romancecar or Odakyu‘s limited express train. Despite being named the Romancecar, there is nothing particularly “romantic” about the train itself. But it is a charming, retro model of the old-fashioned trains which would take travellers to and from Hakone decades ago. They wanted to preserve that old world charm. On the train, you’ll see some magnificent views of Japanese scenery as you make your way into Hakone prefecture. The views are perhaps the reason for the name “Romancecar” since they are stunningly emotive and almost dreamy. You’ll pass the Pacific Ocean, the rural countryside, dozens of mountains and even a glimpse of Mount Fuji (if you’re really lucky). The whole journey should take approximately 85 minutes.

Romancecar

There are four different Romancecar trains which run from Shinjuku to Hakone. Each one is a little different and offers up a variety of seating arrangement. All these cars require reservations in advance. You can book your seats up to a month in advance, and if you’re travelling during a busy period, I recommend making sure you reserve as soon as possible. The ticket reservations cost ¥1,190 (USD 12) and there is an additional Limited Express Surcharge of ¥1000 (USD 10) you pay when you board. This surcharge surprised me since I had my printed reservation forms from Odakyu and assumed these were also my tickets. Turns out you have to pay both the reservation charge and the travel surcharge as well. Keep this in mind, so you don’t look as confused as me!

Type of Seating

One of the formats of the trains has two Observation cars which offer up larger windows as well as a skylight so you can better appreciate the scenery. These seats are usually the first ones to be booked up so if you’re hoping to get one be sure to look for the VSE and LSE trains and book fast! The VSE also offers Saloon style seating are 4-person booths, with huge windows and lots of privacy as well as a small table if you want to have a picnic. The only issue here is that you have to buy the entire set of 4-seats in your reservation. Even if you’re just two people, you’ll have to buy all four seats. That being said, we decided to buy it out ourselves on our trip for the experience, and it was totally worth it for just the one-way trip.  

Hakone Free Pass

If you’re looking to save a bit of money but more importantly TIME, be sure to buy the 1-day “The Hakone Free Pass” from the ticket counter in Shinjuku station. This pass costs 5,140 yen for a 2-day adult pass ($51 USD). This also includes your Limited Express surcharge as well as ALL transportation within Hakone. This means all boats, trains, cable cars and ropeways will be covered under the pass. There are also some additional discounts you can receive on food, attractions and more.

Many people have done the math, and even if you do the bare minimum on this route, you will at least save a few dollars. But the real saving comes when you don’t have to line up at every single ticket counter. You might think, “but are there really that many?” The answer is, YES! Once you get through this post, you’ll see what I mean!

Departing Shinjuku Station

We opted for the 7 am train to Hakone. We wanted as much time as possible to explore, and I recommend doing the same. Hakone can get very busy and the earlier you go, the more time you have to enjoy the peace and quiet that comes without the throngs of tourists. Grab yourself some treats at the convenience store before getting on the train to enjoy on your journey. If you don’t have the time or forget, not to worry, there are food carts which come by during your trip, and there is even a small café area where you can get your coffee or tea and snacks on the train.

Hakone-Yumoto Station

After travelling across the stunning Japanese countryside, you will arrive at Hakone-Yumoto Station. This station first opened in 1888, and the historic nature is very apparent upon stepping off the train. Despite only being a few hours outside of Tokyo, this place feels like entering an entirely different century.

Shōtenga

Stretch your legs after getting off the train with a short walk around Shōtengai. Shōtengai is the largest shopping street in Hakone featuring dozens of different souvenir stores and food stalls selling local specialities. Take a moment to walk across the Ajisai Bridge right across from Hakone Station. The iconic bright red looks remarkable against the green tree lined background.

Hakone-Tozan Railroad

After grabbing a few treats, head back to the station to get onto Hakone-Tozan Railroad. The Tozan Railroad is the only mountain railways in Japan, making the journey all the more special. In the summertime, hydrangeas bloom along the train track so close you could almost reach out and pluck the pedals off as the train chugs along. Be sure to get a window seat since the view is extraordinary any time of the year.

Hakone Open-Air Museum

Take the train until you arrive at Chokoku-no Mori station. Here you’ll find the Hakone Open-Air Museum, featuring hundreds of outdoor sculptures set into the natural landscape. The museum opened in 1969 and ever since visitors have adored wandering along the hillside, taking in the breathtaking views of the valley juxtaposed with awe-inspiring pieces of art. There are over one hundred sculptures from artists such as Auguste Rodin, Niki de Saint Phalle, Aristide Maillol and Henry Moore. 

When we visited, I was hesitant to go inside since the price of admission was 1600 yen (USD 16) which seemed a bit steep considering I didn’t know much about the museum going in. But let me tell you, I’m soooo happy we decided to do it. I would have paid double! It is like no other museum I’ve ever visited.

The sculptures are a mix of modern and contemporary with Japanese artists intermingled wth international aritsts. If you have kids, it’s a blast for them as well since many of the exhibits are geared towards children.

Footbath

At the back of the park, there is a large footbath with water from the hot springs where you can rest your feet. If you didn’t bring a towel to dry off, they sell small ones for 100 yen with a cute logo of the museum printed on it. A cheap and cheerful souvenir!

Gora Station

Once you’re finished at the museum, make your way towards Gora Station. You can either go back to the train station you came from and take it one stop or choose to walk along the one road to Gora Station. I recommend the walk since it’s not too long and very peaceful.

Gyoza Centre

If you choose to walk, along the way you’ll pass the Gyoza Center. This establishment has been serving up incredible gyoza for years in their three storey building but in 2018 they suffered a devastating fire which literally turned the entire building to ash. But, as recently as March 2018 they started serving up takeout once more in a makeshift building beside the rubble. Try to give them a visit and support them to help rebuild their new restaurant and enjoy some incredible gyoza while you’re at it.

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Gora Park

If you got the “Free Hakone Pass” you get free entry into Gora park. A great place to sit and rest your feet if you didn’t get a chance to reset at the Hakone Open Air Museum. Without the pass, entry is a steep 600 yen for a walk in the park but if you can get in for free it’s a lovely little place to experience a variety of beautiful flora and fauna.

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Lunchtime around Gora Station

If you’re feeling hungry, stop off at Chunmoto, a small soba noodle shop tucked behind the train tracks. The set meals are slightly more expensive than you’d pay elsewhere, but considering you’re at the top of a mountain, the slightly inflated price seems reasonable. Try the Yama Soba, this comes with grated mountain yam on top of chilled soba noodles. They have the same kind of texture as natto which can take some getting used to, but once you start liking it, it gets addictive. Yama Soba is very specific to Hakone so trying it in this setting is highly recommended.

If you’re looking for something a little more popular, you can try to get a table at Tamura Ginkatsu-tei. This restaurant often has lines out the door during the lunch rush but for a good reason. Their most famous dish is the tofu, egg and pork soup, with sliced ginger to give it an addictive kick!

Gora Station to Sounzan station

Once you’re finished eating, head back to Gora Station to get the cable car up to Sounzan station. Sounzan station is where you’ll transfer once more to the famous Hakone Ropeway up Mount Hakone.

Cable Car

Each vehicle takes up to 18 people up to the top of the mountain and backs down to Lake Ashii with several stops in-between. From the highest point on the cable car, on clear days you have incredible views of Mount Fuji, and to the east, you can even see Tokyo! But, on most days, these are obscured by clouds and fog. That being said, the views even on a cloudy day of the surrounding valley are stunning, and during spring and fall, the colourful foliage looks like a multicoloured mosaic across the hillside.

Owakudani

The first station off the cable car is Owakudani. Owakudani is an enormous volcanic crater in the centre of Mount Hakone. Although the area is still an active volcano zone, the last eruption was over 3000 years ago. Today, you can smell it long before you can see it. This is due to the sulfurous fumes which fill the air. As you start to come up over the mountain in the ropeway, you can see yellowish plumes of smoke billowing over the skyline.

There used to be a hiking trail outside the ropeway station where you could talk to see steam vents and bubbling pools of sulfur but these days the fumes are so strong that the trails have been closed to the public. One of the most popular reasons people get off at this stop is to taste the famous black eggs. These eggs are cooked in the sulfurous water sand eating them is supposed to extend your life by seven years. They taste just like a regular boiled egg and can be purchased for $5 for 5 eggs. It even comes with little salt and pepper packet for favouring! $5 for 7 years of health and happiness?! Seems like a good deal to me!

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Get back onto the cable car and head down to Togendai Station. On the way down you’ll have another chance to see Mount Fuji across the lake. Mount Fuji is known as the “shy mountain” due to the fact that you so rarely can see it! So take it as a good omen if you manage to catch a glimpse.

Togendai Boat Cruise

Togendai station is where you can board the Togendai Boat Cruise across Lake Ashi.  There are two type of tickets, regular class and first class. Regular class comes with your Hakone Free Pass but can be upgraded for an extra 500 yen. I wouldn’t pay the extra money, it’s not a very long trip, and the only advantage is better indoor seating separate from the regular class. It’s a slightly more luxurious section and would only be worth it if the weather was terrible, and you knew you had to spend the entire trip inside.

The boats leave every 20 minutes. If you have some extra time before your boat departs a walk around the lake is highly recommended. There are some cute swan boats beside the station as well which you can rent if you feel like taking a doddle around the lake yourself. The ships themselves are modelled to look like pirate ships. They aren’t historical pirate ships, merely painted to look like them. While there doesn’t seem to be any real rhyme of reason for this, the brightly painted red and green ships with gold trim do stand against the blue waters.

What you See on the Cruise

The cruise takes about 40 minutes and on a good day is the best place to see Lake Ashi, the Red Torii gates of the Hakone Shrine and Mt. Fuji altogether. While sitting up on the deck can get a little cold, they sell hot cups of coffee and tea onboard, the perfect way to get comfy while watching the scenery pass by. I loved sitting up on the deck, the wind blowing in my hair, catching the last few blooming cheery blossom trees popping up in the distance. Most people chose to sit inside but I would recommend braving the cold, wind and rain for such a breathtaking experience.

There are two stops on the cruise; one at Hakone Shrine and the other at Hakone-machi port, just to the south. I recommend getting off at the Shrine port. From here, it’s only a short walk over to the Shrine itself.

Hakone Shrine

The Hakone Shrine is most well know for its torii-gate-on-the-water. And many people don’t make it farther than that. I don’t recommend doing this. Pass through the water torii gate and head up the enormous staircase to the top where the real shrine sits. Walking up the stairs, you’ll pass underneath hundreds of cedar trees over 800 years old. Cedar trees are known to purify the air, therefore, creating a holy atmosphere around the shrine.

At the top of the stairs you’ll reach the shrine. This shrine is dedicated to the deity of love. You’ll see dozens of couples hand-in-hand, praying for the blessing of the gods. Or single people praying that they too may one day find their true love. It’s a legend that drinking the water at the shrine will help bring you luck in your romantic life! When I visited it was pouring rain and I couldn’t help but thinking this was a good sign!

Stay Overnight

After visiting the shrine, it will either be time to catch a bus back to Hakone Station to head back to Shinjuku or find your way to a hotel for an overnight stay. I highly recommend the Hakone Hotel. Located right on the lake, you have one of the best views of Mount Fuji (on a clear day). But on every other day, the iconic scenery of the lakesides is just as atmospheric. Inside the hotel are two onsens. One for men and one for women. They are incredibly beautiful and the perfect way to unwind after a long day on your feet! These onsens you’ll find in almost any hotel in Hakone is a fantastic way to experience the city’s illustrious hot springs for free (with the cost of your hotel).

Picnic Dinner in Hakone

The only downside to an overnight stay in Hakone is many of the restaurants which serve tourists all day are closed for dinner. This is because most people who visit Hakone are day trippers and the restaurants can’t stay open for only a few people. This means that your hotel is often your only choice for meals. While many of these hotels have incredible menus, they are usually pretty expensive. We opted for a 7-Eleven feast! The local 7-Eleven was only a short walk down the road, and from there we picked up a little bit of everything. Only in Japan would a meal from a convenience store look like an absolutely gourmet spread! 

We booked a Lake View room in our hotel and set up our dinner in front of the window, all the while watching the falling rain on the lake. It was incredible. Even with the raindrops on the water, the lake looked completely still. Peaceful and serene. Even if your hotel doesn’t have any great views, make yourself a picnic and find somewhere along the waters edge to enjoy the scenery. Hakone is truly a wondrous city onto itself and although a chance viewing of Mount Fuji would be the icing on top of the cake, there are so many more amazing things to see and learn, you won’t be disappointed even if you don’t see it! 

The post The Ultimate 24-Hour Guide to Hakone Japan first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.