The Museo Casa Estudio has been remarkably preserved and restored. It is open for visitors to come inside and explore, a chance to step into the intimate spaces where Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo painted, entertained and simply existed together, as apart. Come with us as we explore the entirety of the Museo Casa Estudio and learn more about the artists who lived here and the man who built this revolutionary property!

Guide to the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo

1. Location & Access
2. Admission & Hours
3. About Diego Rivera
4. About Frida Kahlo
5. Juan O'Gorman
6. Modernist Architecture
   • Functionalism
7. Designing the Casa Estudio
   • Life inside the Casa Estudio
   • Studio as Museum
8. Exterior Foyer
   • The Bathrooms
9. Diego's House
   • 2nd Floor Bedroom
10. Diego's Studio
    • Mezzanine
    • Rooftop
    • The Bridge of Diego and Frida's Love
11. Frida's Studio
    • What the Water Gave Me
12. The O'Gorman Guest House
    • Dining Room Mural

Location & Access

The Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo is located in the neighbourhood of San Angel, in the far south of the city centre. To access the museum, you can take an Uber or taxi directly into the district’s centre. The Uber fare costs about $7 USD and takes about 20-30 minutes (depending on traffic) from the centre of Mexico City. If you’d prefer to take public transit, you can hop on the metro towards Miguel Angel de Quevedo Station. From here, you’ll have to change to one of the city’s metro buses that will take you directly into the Altavista suburbs where the museum is located.

Admission & Hours

The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 11 am to 5 pm. The price of admission is $40 pesos for adults, but children under 13 and seniors are free. Admission is free for everyone on Sundays.

About Diego Rivera

Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo are perhaps two of the most well-known artists to come out of Mexico. It is perhaps no coincidence that the two geniuses would find themselves caught in a passionate web of love, art and fiery drama. Diego Rivera was born in 1886 in Guanajuato City, Mexico. When he was born, he came out of the womb along with his twin brother. Sadly, his brother Carlos died two years after they were born. Twins have this unspoken, deep, almost soulful connection with each other and this loss so early in Diego’s life perhaps touched the young boy with trauma and pain that it seems many infamous artists carry with them. Diego started to draw at only three, just after his brother died. Perhaps as a means to express his grief.

Mexican Muralism

His talents only grew from then, and at the age of ten, he went to study art at the San Carlos Academy of Fine Arts in Mexico City. Rivera travelled to Europe after flourishing at the school in Mexico City. It was there he would refine his unique style of painting under the influence of modern artists like Pablo Picasso and looked to the works of Paul Gauguin and Henri Matisse for inspiration. Rivera returned to Mexico City in 1922 as he had been commissioned by the government to head up their new muralism program. The project was created to promote aimed to National pride through murals that told the history of Mexico that even the working class, illiterate masses could interpret.

About Frida Kahlo

While Diego was painting murals all over Mexico City, Frida Kahlo was just a young girl with her own struggles. Frida was born in 1907 in Coyoacan, a small neighbourhood just outside the centre of Mexico City. Similar to Rivera, Frida had her own ordeals early on in life. She was afflicted with polio at only six years old. This meant that her right leg would always be shorter and thinner than the left, a disability that would affect her for the rest of her life.

But Frida never let this illness defeat her spirit despite being kept isolated at home at such a young age. She looked up to her artistic father, who was a famous photographer, and it was him that inspired her to start painting. While at home, her father taught her things she would never learn so early in school, everything from philosophy, literature and, of course, art and photography. When she went back to school, she flourished, as learning was something that truly excited her.

The Bus Accident

But just as her life was taking off once more, she was hit, literally, by another setback. On her way back from school on the day, in the centre of Mexico City, just a few blocks from where Rivera was painting, the bus she was riding on was hit by a streetcar. A large iron handrail pierced her pelvis, broke her spine in three places and crushed her right leg, as well as a litany of other injuries. She stayed in the hospital for months and had to be put into a plaster corset to aid her spine and chest bones in healing. This meant months of bedrest with nothing to do. Nothing to do but paint. Once more, her father encouraged her to turn her pain into art. Despite these life-altering incidents, she responded with the same vigour for the life she refused to lose despite these accidents.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

After recovering, Frida discovered the thing she wanted to do for the rest of her life, and that was to paint. She was insistent on becoming the best painter she could be, so she sought out the advice of the greatest Mexican painter she knew, Diego Rivera. Rivera was immediately taken aback by this energetic and bold girl and her obvious talent. Despite being married already (to two different women), Frida and Diego started a relationship. They would be married in 1929 at a wedding her parents entitled “the marriage between an elephant and a dove.“

The couple were immediately taken out of Mexico City and moved to the United States. Rivera had to paint several commissions in San Francisco, Detroit, and New York for the famous Rockefellers. But they knew they would return home to Mexico City and wanted a beautiful hacienda to come back to. This is where their friend, architect and artist Juan O’Gorman would come in!

Juan O’Gorman

O’Gorman had been studying functionalism, inspired by the Swiss designer Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, known as Le Corbusier. O’Gorman was enthusiastic about bringing this modernist style to his home in Mexico City. He saw Mexico City as being a hub for modern thinking and exquisite architecture. The old Hacienda Goicoechea, now the famous San Angel Inn, had sold off the large expanse of their land to become residential housing. O’Gorman loved the neighbourhood and purchased the land currently being used as the tennis courts of the nearby hotel. 

Modernist Architecture

O’Gorman had plans to turn these two plots into the first modernist home in Mexico City. But when he displayed his plan it was very controversial. Most homes here are super traditional, fitting into that 18th century colonial style, and this new modernist vision wasn’t an appealing sight to the neighbours. But despite them turning their noses up at this new technique, O’Gorman solidered on. He built one home as a proof of concept. This home still stands today as the Museo Casa Estudio’s guest house.

Functionalism

Functionalism was a style defined by buildings that were designed around their purpose and function and revolted against excess decoration that didn’t serve a objective. In many European functionalist buildings, glass, steel and concrete were essential elements in their construction. In Mexico, in addition to these materials, O’Gorman wanted to incorporate clay and natural plants into the buildings. Instead of building fences out of wood or wrought iron, he planted rows of tall cacti along the roadside. These elements were native to the environment and followed the functionalist ethos. He would use other plants to create borders that looked almost like they had naturally grown up around the house.

Another element significant in functionalism is using practical elements as expressive decoration. A great example of this is the exposed helicoidal staircases that swirl up the sides of the houses. The stairs are a means of access and yet bring an interesting spacial element to the house’s exterior. Water tanks and drainage pipes also provide dynamic structural details around the house. These were all painted a contrasting orange colour and created this framing effect. Instead of looking too industrial, they manage to have their own architectural charm. But they are, in fact, used for rainwater drainage so are not just ornamental.

Diego’s house features a saw-tooth roof design. This design, while it might look decorative, is actually used to allow natural light into the interior while blocking out the heat of direct sun exposure. This was a technique popular inside industrial factories as early as the 16th century, before electiral lighting could be used to illuminate the interiors. It remains today as one of the most ingenious techniques to bring natural light into the interiors.

Designing the Casa Estudio

When Diego and Frida saw what O’Gorman had created, they quickly decided to purchase the entire property and commissioned him to build them twin buildings. Each one would act as both a residence and a studio, unique to each artist. The two buildings were designed as a pair but also as two oppositional designs. Tied together through the consistent elements of functionalism and a bridge that brought the building together at the top.

Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. On the other hand, Frida’s studio is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her Casa Azul. Both studios feature floor-to-ceiling windows, giving the interior spaces an indoor/outdoor feeling. But are protected from the elements, meaning you can paint inside while feeling like you’re out en plein air. The ideal of these twin structures is eerily similar to Diego and his brother Carlos. Connected together despite the fates of their lives going in two very different directions.

Life inside the Casa Estudio

Construction on the houses ended in 1932, and the couple moved in 1934. Diego and Frida lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul. Diego kept the house and continued living and painting here during their separation. After their divorce, the couple actually got back together, only 9-months later. But even after this reconciliation, Frida preferred to remain in the Casa Azul.

After Frida’s passing in 1954, Diego would continue to live in the studio house full time. He treasured his time in his home until his death on November 24, 1957. Rivera died in his studio, and his body remained there as friends and family came to sit vigil inside to mourn the loss. After this, his body was moved to the Palacio de Bellas Artes for his grand state funeral. 

Studio as Museum

After his death, Diego’s daughters inherited the houses. When they moved in, their went about drastically changing some of the most iconic aspects of the house and making many ugly additions. They removed the cacti and installed a stone fence. They also demolished the bridge that connected the buildings, one of the most important aspects of the house. Years later, the houses were gifted to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes to be enjoyed by the public. Restoration began in 1995 to bring back the original nature of the homes and preserve their architectural value. All the additions and fencing were removed, and the house seemed to breathe a sigh of relief.

Exterior Foyer

One of the most wonderful things about functionalist-style houses is that they sit on stilts. These stilts are called pilotis, slender columns that support an upper level. When you walk into the property, the entire exterior courtyard feels like an open-air foyer. But with wonderful shaded areas under those upper levels to escape the sun’s heat (essential in Mexico City!) This open air foyer really exposes the incredible landscape architecture that O’Gorman created around the property. It feels like a gorgeous garden floating below.

Another enchanting thing to study while walking around the exterior are the exposed staircases. The spiral staircase which curls its way up the side of Diego’s studio is a wonderful geometric cement column contrasted against the solid red walls. The stairs almost have this musical-like curvature that flows out of the house.

The only exterior staircase in Frida’s house leads from the second-floor studio up to the rooftop. She would use this pathway to cross the thin bridge which connected to Diego’s house. Especially considering her frail condition and problems with her legs, it’s impressive she would brave such a dangerous-looking crossing. Especially when it originally was designed without any handrails!

The Bathrooms

Standing in the coutyard, you’ll see a smaller blue building, set behind Frida’s house. It looks almost like a minature version of her studio. Today, this tiny structure houses the public washrooms that visitors can use during their stay. Although you might think this was an addition when the museum was built, this building is original! It was designed by O’Gorman as a photography studio meant for Frida’s father. Even now, just as then, nothing is wasted. Functionalism reigns eternal.

Diego’s House

You enter Diego’s House first, via the exterior spiral staircase. The large, mostly empty room you enter on the first floor was used initially for Diego to display the artworks he had up for sale. His personal art gallery. Today, the space houses just a few remaining pieces from Diego’s collections of Pre-Columbian artifacts. Today the majority of his collections are housed in the Museo Anahuacalli.

During their marriage, the Museo Anahuacalli was a pipe dream of both Rivera and Kahlo. They both adored collecting these precious pieces of Mexican history and wanted to share them with the public. Rivera had started construction on this project just before his death. But it was O’Gorman who would see it through as the chief architect in charge of achieveing Rivera’s vision. Much of Rivera’s muralism was influenced by these pre-Columbian figurines. In Rivera’s art we can see the intense facial expressions and powerful geometric shapes reflected in these figurines.

2nd Floor Bedroom

Head back up the stairs, either using the smaller interior staircase or the outer curved stairs. The second level is where we find the painter’s studio and bedroom. The little room you’ll see upon entering is Rivera’s tiny bedroom. In functionalist buildings proportions of bedrooms were much smaller than we would expect. This was because they were seen as rooms only used for sleep and therefore didn’t require a great use of space. This preserved more capacity in areas like the studio which was where the artist spent most of his time.

Plus, the painter wasn’t a fan of sleeping unless it was with women. The room is designed to have only a tiny row of windows along the ceiling. This allowed only a small amount of light to flow inside. This meant the artist could get some sleep no matter what time of day.

The room is still laid out like it’s awaiting the return of it’s owner. Diego’s shoes are sitting on the floor as if he is about to get out of bed. Besides this, there are also his bedpans left here since his death. Atop the bedframe is Diego’s suitcase, as he was a world traveller. On the bedside table, you can also see a collection of his keychains and wallets. All the while the room is watched over by a series of papier-mache figures.

Diego’s Studio

Stepping from the hallway, make your way into the great studio. Immediately you’ll be overcome by the light that pours into theroom from the double-height windows on the north wall. From inside you can also study the effect of the saw-tooth roof windows that fill even the ceiling with light. Diego’s studio is bursting with natural energy. The trees on the other side of the windows almost look like they’re growing inside the house. The separation from indoors to outdoor is only a thin veil in here.

The studio still contains the original brushes and pigments which Rivera used to make his murals. They sit beside his easel like he is about to walk back into the room mid-painting. The painting on the easel is a portrait of Dolores Del Rio, a famous Mexican actress. Diego once said of Del Rio;

The most beautiful, the most gorgeous of the west, east, north and south. I’m in love with her as 40 million Mexicans and 120 million Americans who can’t be wrong.

Diego Rivera

Books, artisan ceramics and pottery, and little curios line the green painted shelves at the back of the room. Glass jars are silhouetted against the window panes. Inside powdered pigment still sit, waiting to be turned into paints. Diego’s studio really feels like a highly intimate space. Each one of the objects was bought by Diego as they caught his eye or gifted to him by a friend and lovingly put on display to be treasured. One of the most interesting decor found on the shelves is a copy of Diego Rivera’s death mask. Allowing him to still watche over all those and anyone who enters.

Judases

Filling the corners of the studio are these huge papier-mâché figures. Images of devils, skeletons and expressive people lean against the walls like inanimate puppets. These are called “Judases” and are popular formed of Mexican folk art. They were originally created as a part of the celebrations before Easter. The figures were made to look like the image of Judas, the Traitor. They would then take this resemblance of the great betrayer and set him on fire, to rid the world of his evil spirit. As years passed and the tradition became more popular, the figures began to take the forms of other, also unfavourable people or things. This could be anything from images of devils, demons, politicians, criminals and, in some cases, even disliked shopkeepers. Today the papier-mache dolls are stuffed with fireworks and blown up on the street. Much to the enjoyment of the onlookers.

But Rivera didn’t blow them up. Instead, he kept them as souvenirs of the local artisans. Although the simple craftsmen who made them might not have seen them as high art, Diego saw these as treasures to keep forever. Their highly expressive faces now look out over visitors from all studio corners.

Mezzanine

Walking back up the stairs, you enter the small mezzanine that looks over the studio. A small table between the two chairs is set in the corner, the perfect place to relax and watch the great painter at work. On the table is a portrait of Diego’s beloved, Frida. One can imagine this would have been where Frida herself would have stood to look down on her husband after coming over from her side of the house. Sometimes finding him hard at work…and other times, and sadly so, in the throes of passion with another woman, much to her dismay. In fact, it may have been right here that Frida discovered Diego cheating on her with her younger sister Cristina. There is no doubt that this house was a place of intensity from all angles.

The mezzanine is also home to Rivera’s office, just in the corner, beside the door to the rooftop. His green leather desk features a old phone, a typewriter and more pre-Colombian art covering the walls.

Rooftop

From the small office, you step out onto the rooftop, the neighbourhood of San Angel opening up all around you. During the Springtime, the purple flowers of the Jacaranda trees light up the skyline.

The Bridge of Diego and Frida’s Love

Although Frida and Diego had a passionate relationship, this firey love also resulted in both positive and negative intensity. When things were good, they were great, but when it was bad, it was very, very bad. So for both their sakes, having a separate working space where one could get away from the other was imperative. But the two buildings are connected by a large bridge on the top. O’Gorman named the bridge “the bridge of Diego and Frida’s love.” A symbol that, at the end of the day, they still found a way to come together and connect. Even when things were dire.

A narrow bridge connects the two buildings, the red-painted railings all you have to hold onto as you cross over. While Frida’s staircase has been closed down, too dangerous for the public to continually cross, you can imagine how the two lovers must have met up here to look out over the city and take in the night air. Even today the rest of the buildings in the area remain at a lower level to the rooftop of the Museo Casa Estudio, making you feel like you have this private oasis all to yourself.

Frida’s Studio

To get into Frida’s studio, you need to walk back down to the courtyard and enter on the ground level. Sadly, there is not much to see inside Frida’s house. Much of what once existed here has been moved to the Frida Kahlo museum in the Casa Azul. If you’re interested in learning more about the life and art of Frida Kahlo, you should definitely check it out, just over in Coyoacan. But there is one reason to go into the house: see the bathroom on the second floor. Sounds odd but stay with me!

What the Water Gave Me

This is where Frida lay when she was inspired to paint “What the Water Gave Me” in 1938. Like toys in a child’s bathtub, Frida painted the images that swam in her mind on top of the water. Memories of her life float around her; the only slice of reality is the cast iron bathtub framing the scene and her little toes sticking out of the water. The bathtub which inspired this scene can still be found in the house. If you’re a bather like me, you’ll know sitting in the bath really is where the imagination comes alive. It’s the best place to sit and think. Shower people will disagree with me I’m sure, but for me, a bath is a perfect way to relax and reflect. And it seems like Frida agrees.

The O’Gorman Guest House

The third large building on the property, located slightly below the other two homes, was the couple’s guest house. It was here that family and friends could stay in their own private apartments. But when the house was being built, it was used almost as a test for O’Gorman’s vision. To separate this house from the main studios, you’ll see another line of cacti fencing and steps leading down, surrounded by lush agave plants.

Construction on his house started in 1929, two years before the dual studio. The most impressive part of the building is the study on the first floor. Three of the four walls inside this part of the house are covered in floor-to-ceiling glass panels. And in fact, the entire glass wall opens up like a giant window. It’s pretty dangerous by today’s standards, as you can just walk right off, but what an impact it makes! The windows open up the space, and it feels like you’re floating in the air. The panels of glass are slightly more opaque on the lower four panels to give some privacy to the interior while still filling it with light.

The exterior ground level connects to the study via a wide-sweeping spiral staircase. Once more, without handrails. Looks gorgeous but can’t be very practical. A more private (and safe for visitors) internal staircase takes guests inside the private spaces which contain a small bedroom, bathroom, dining room and kitchen.

Dining Room Mural

One of the other exciting things to study here in the house is the remnants of the dining room mural that was once painted onto the walls. The mural was called “There is quite a difference between philosophy and science,” painted by O’Gorman. It depicts a stunning and vibrant Mexican landscape dotted with images of science and industry. On the left of the frame, there is an image of a fragile skeleton. This is juxtaposed with a beautiful naked Mexican woman who sits opposite. She sets aside a cup bursting with gorgous fresh fruits. The message is that one must have progress to flourish and grow. Otherwise, you will wither and die, like the old skeleton.

The fresco was only discovered in 2012 when a restoration team found traces of the original mural. When the house was sold off after Diego’s death, the mural was removed from the wall, purchased by the Banco Nacional de México for its private collection. Today you can see a photograph of the real painting beside the sketches found on the house’s walls. While I’m sure it’s well preserved in the bank’s museum, it would be more impressive to see it in situ here in the dining room. Maybe one day!

Thank you for joining us on this self-guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The Museo Casa Estudio is a wonderfully immersive space to explore, and I hope this guide helped you learn more about all the secrets hidden in plain sight. Let me know in the comments what your favourite discovery was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Everything you Need to Know About the Incredible Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Although the area doesn’t have the draw of big tourist attractions like the Historic Centre, this is the place to come to see everyday life. A walk around this incredible neighbourhood with its gorgeous architecture, peaceful atmosphere and fantastic art and culture makes it even more extraordinary than the tourist centre! There is something so earnest about this place. So real and yet fantastically romantic. So while it might not jump out at you as a place you “need to visit,” I would absolutely say you do!

Outside of the busy market on Saturday, this neighbourhood feels almost untouched by time. Walking down the little side street and just letting curiosity lead you will bring you to the most incredible destinations. But if you’re looking for a guide to the best of what to see and do here in San Ángel, I’ve got you covered!

Table Of Contents

1. Location & Access
2. History
3. Walking Tour
4. Parque de la Bombilla
5. Restaurante El Cardenal
6. Mercado De Flores
7. Templo del Carmen de San Ángel
8. Museo de El Carmen
9. Plaza del Carmen
10. San Angel Art Market
11. Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga
12. Bishop's House 
13. Plaza San Jacinto
14. Saturday Art Market
15. Handicraft Shops
16. Museo Casa del Risco
17. Antiques Fair
18. Bazaar Sábado
19. Villa San Jacinto
20. Parroquia San Jacinto
21. Plaza de Los Cielos
22. Plaza de los Arcángeles
23. Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada
24. Casa Blanca
25. Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
26. San Angel Inn

Location & Access

San Ángel is located south of Mexico City, just west of the popular Coyoacán district. Pairing a visit to San Ángel with a trip to Coyoacán is the perfect way to spend an entire day. Away from the crowded city centre and up above all the hustle and bustle. I would advise getting up nice and early for your visit to San Ángel. Nothing starts the day better than brunch at restaurant El Cardenal. Plus an early start means you can get the most out of your day.

Uber

The best way to get to San Ángel is via Uber. Anywhere from the centre of the city, outside busy times of the day, it will only take about 25-30 minutes to arrive here. And generally, a ride will cost around $7 USD. Our first stop on the walking tour is in the beautiful Parque de la Bombilla, so you can put that down as your routed destination.

Metro

If you prefer to take the metro, you can arrive at Miguel Ángel de Quevedo Station. It is only a 10-minute walk from the station to our tour starting point. All metro stations in Mexico City have a different icon corresponding to their station. This was initially conceptualized to ensure that illiterate people could identify the other stations on a map.

The icon for Miguel Ángel de Quevedo is a large fruit tree. Miguel Ángel de Quevedo was a famous Mexican engineer who studied Mexican flora. He was nicked named the “tree apostle,” hence the station’s icon. But also considering this area was once rich with orchards, it also seems fitting. Just a little hint at the colonia’s history right from the get-go!

History

The neighbourhood, which is now San Ángel, was initially one of the wealthiest agricultural plots in ancient Tenochtitlan. Tenochtitlan was the capital of the great Aztec empire. Here there was an abundant source of water from the nearby Magdalena River. The area was called Tenanitla, or “walled in place,” in the Nahuatl language. The name was inspired by the volcanic rock bed that surrounded the area. It is also called Pedregal, formed by the eruption of the Xitle Volcano two thousand years ago. The volcanic bed formed a kind of wall around the land which helped retain the water from the river.

The Monasteries

When the Spanish invaded, they took the land in San Ángel for their own. It was here they established a series of monasteries. The most important of which was the San Jacinto monastery, which gave the area its first Spanish name; San Jacinto Tenanitla.

The next monastery to be built was the El Carmen monastery, built by the Carmelites in 1597. Inside the monastery, the monks opened a small school. But most of the land surrounding the church was used to plant a large expanse of orchards. The orchards flourished due to fertile soil and access to water. At one time, there were over 13,000 trees that sprouted up around the community. The school and orchards were named after San Ángel Mártir, the first members of the Order of Carmel. People would marvel at the orchards and their harvest would bring in a lot of money to the order and the area. The popularity was such that eventually, people would simply refer to the neighbourhood as San Ángel. And soon that become the de facto name for the area.

San Angel as Retreat

In the 18th century, wealthy farming families began to seek larger plots of land outside of the city center. These families began to build some of the most spectacular mansions. Many still stand today as exemplary models of 18th-century architecture in Mexico City.

In the 19th century, the orchards and many of the religious institutions of San Ángel were destroyed in the Mexican-American War. The remainder of the farming lands and orchards were removed to make room for the expanding railway system in 1891. This left the area barren of all its agricultural potential which had once defined the barrio. While the city centre was building industrial factories, San Ángel remained untouched by progress and left as a relatively rural suburb. But it was just peace and quiet that, in the 1940s made it a popular country retreat for wealthy Mexican families. These families continued to preserve the historic homes they found. And kept the area as this precious gem that we can visit today!

Walking Tour

Your experience in San Ángel will be defined by the day of the week you choose to visit. If you come to San Ángel on the weekend, especially on Saturday for the Art Market, the streets are bursting with people. Car surge into this part of town, as locals love to come here on the weekend in droves. It’s not just for the tourists, in fact, I would say the locals outweigh tourists three to one. But outside of the weekend, San Ángel is a tranquil oasis. And you’ll find you often have parts of the city all to yourself. But the peace means you’ll have to skip the popular pop-up art market. Either way, there are so many things to do here, no matter when you arrive. The only day I’d say to avoid is Mondays as all the museums are closed.

Parque de la Bombilla

The best place to start your tour of the neighbourhood is in San Ángel’s grandiose Parque de la Bombilla. Mexico City is, in my opinion, the best city in the world for public parks. Each of them brings a new surprise. Filled with beauty, drama and artistry. And Parque de La Bombilla is one that I feel doesn’t get its fair due. In the centre of the park is a giant monument to Álvaro Obregón. Álvaro Obregón was the 46th president of Mexico, inaugurated in 1920. Sadly, Obregón was assassinated in 1928 inside La Bombilla restaurant, which once stood on this very spot. After his death, the restaurant was demolished to make room for a park built in his honour. The park’s unveiling took place in 1935, on the seventh anniversary of Obregón’s assassination.

The Obregón monument dominates the park. Towering over you like a lighthouse, drawing you in. A huge reflecting pool sits just in front, allowing the sun to cast its reflection down into the water, creating a mirror-like surface. In addition to the central monument, the park also boasts seven beautiful fountains, artistic garden beds and even various chess and checkers tables awaiting their daily players.

Socialist style architecture

The Obregón Monument is a socialist-style tower. Socialist-style architecture became somewhat of a trend in Mexico City in the early 20th century. Mexico was encouraged by the Russian Revolution of 1917. They admired how the shift was leaning towards the boots on the ground workers and peasants while rejecting the bourgeoisie and upper classes. As such, they were inspired by the architecture of the Soviet Union under the leadership of Joseph Stalin. The style is characterized by rigid, geometric shapes, sturdy columns and giant statues. Often built to commemorate great leaders of the country.

Obregón Monument

The Obregón Monument greets you with two statues, guarding either side of the giant steel doorway. These are the indigenous protectors, representing “Work” and “Fertility.” The monument’s centre features a large stairwell that climbs to the top of the tower. Inside was once the resting place of Obregón’s embalmed arm. The arm was since moved, but today, a marble copy stands in its place.

On either side of the monument, are two groups of sculptures. One represents the Allegory of the Sacrifice, the other the Allegory of Triumph; two defining characteristics of Obregón’s presidency. On the back of the memorial is the sculpture of the great Eagle of Mexico City. Its wings spread in front of a series of geometric Saguaro cacti.

Restaurante El Cardenal

Hopefully, the bright colours of the park have woken you up a bit and now it’s time for breakfast! Take a stroll up along Avenue de la Paz. This street leads you right into the historic heart of San Ángel. Here you’ll shortly arrive at our breakfast spot, Restaurante El Cardenal. Restaurante El Cardenal is an institution in Mexico City with multiple different locations. The San Ángel location is their newest expansion, opening in 2011. But it quickly became the go-to destination on Saturday and Sunday mornings.

El Cardenal History

El Cardenal was founded in 1969, the original location was just across the street from the Plaza de la Constitución. The founders were a large family who wanted to bring their love of traditional Mexican cuisine to an upscale setting. They saw that many households didn’t have time to make classic home-cooked dishes. But here in El Cardenal you can come and feel like you’re dining at your mother’s table.

One of the most luxurious parts of dining inside El Cardenal in San Ángel is the gorgeous architecture. The restaurant is set inside an old colonial mansion. The building was actually previous another restaurant but when it closed the house lay dormant for years. When El Cardenal bought the property they took great pains to restore the details of the home to their former glory. The stained glass windows and gleaming wood floors make just sitting inside such a joy to experience. The back of the restaurant features a glass window box that looks into the kitchen, so you can watch the chefs hard at work!

The El Cardenal Experience

Their breakfasts are among the most popular seatings, with wait times up to 40 minutes depending on the day. So the earlier you arrive, the better. This is because huge families come here all together on the weekend for a cheerful family brunch. Despite the wait, this amazing familial atmosphere is what makes this restaurant so special. Walking inside, we were treated like absolute royalty. White-shirt waiters greeted us and catered to our every need. It felt like we were dining at a Michelin star restaurant but at a fraction of the cost! 

The Food

To start the perfect breakfast, begin with hot chocolate, not coffee! Their unique hot chocolate is made with famous Doña Oliva chocolate and is like drinking a cup of history. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico and was an essential part of the Aztec culture from 1400 AD.

My favourite part about the experience of eating here was the pastry tray. When you come inside a waiter brings you over an enormous tray of sweet pastries. And you can choose, with your own eyes, which pastry you’d want to start off the meal right with. I went with the concha as I feel like it’s the perfect pairing with a hot chocolate.

Another traditional breakfast dish you’ll only find in Mexico is the Egg omelette with escamoles. Escamoles are colloquially called “Mexican caviar,” and are edible ant larvae. Escamoles have been consumed in Mexico since the age of the Aztecs and are high in nutritional value. It’s definitely one of the most unique and classic dishes on the menu. But if that’s not your thing they have many other traditional options for those who aren’t that adventurous.

While you might take a look at this elegant restaurant would be pretty pricey, El Cardenal is such a good value. They really price themselves as a family restaurant. Although there were some tourists here it was clear that most people gather here every week. And with food as good and cheap as this, I know why they do!

Mercado De Flores

To work off some of the big breakfast, walk down the street and turn north up Avenue Revolución towards the famous San Ángel Flower Market. This market dates back to the time of the Carmelite friars. When they lived in the area, their church was surrounded by extensive gardens. Here they grew fruit trees and flowers in large quantities.

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Walking up to the market, you can spot it from down the street, not only by the iconic white awnings but also by the brightly painted murals along the exterior. Public murals like this were famous in markets like this around Mexico City. Vendors are packed tightly along the thin strip of the sidewalk facing the Avenida Revolucion. In their white plastic buckets are a wide array of vibrant flowers for locals to bring home to their sweethearts with a smile.

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Templo del Carmen de San Ángel

After peaking around at the flowers in the market, head back south along Avenue Revolución. Crossing Avenue de la Paz, lead yourself towards the large domes that dominate the skyline guiding you into the old Carmelite Church of San Ángel. 

Courtyard

While most people go directly to the Museum of El Carmen, checking out the church itself is more than worth your time. Even just walking through the old stone walls into the quaint courtyard gives you so many things to look at and ponder. The church courtyard is home to one of the most amazing jacaranda trees. Hidden behind the stone walls it feels like a treasure that we found was all to ourselves! It hangs heavy over the fountain in the centre of the stone yard. Its branches also frame the gorgeous tiled domes off in the background.

History of the St. Carmen Church of San Ángel

The church was originally built in 1615 by the Carmelite friar Andrés de San Miguel. It took over 10 years to complete, and when it opened it housed the order of the Barefoot Carmelites. It was originally opened as a monastery but they also built a college nearby. Here they welcomed theology students and new priests of the order. The church flourished for years and its orchards formed the bedrock of the colonial we find today. Bringing both money and interest to this part of town.

After the Mexican Reformation War of 1858, the new secular governmental powers closed down many Catholic churches and schools. The area around San Ángel was occupied by US troops who sadly destroyed many parts of the old buildings. As well as looting many of the church’s precious assets. They even went so far as to destroy the beloved orchards.

The old school building went on to serve as a prison, barracks and even the location of the local town council. Eventually, in 1921, the church school was transformed into a museum. It was here they sought to preserve the history of the building, the treasure found hidden within and the stories from the neighbourhood’s past. But the actual church itself has stood here, in almost the exact same state, for hundreds of years. And walking inside feels like stepping back in time.

Architecture

The design of the church was made in Herrerian style. Herrerian style rose in popularity in Spain during the 16th century and came to Mexico City with the Spanish colonizers. The style features a more restrained use of ornamentation compared to other baroque styles of the time. The shape of the building is designed to spread horizontally and symmetrically. And yet unlike many other Herrerian buildings which have flat or plain roofs, the St. Carmen de San Ángel church features three incredible tiled domes. Brilliant blue and yellow-painted tiles from Puebla still glisten in the sunlight although much of the roofs have fallen into disrepair over the ages.

Walking into the church, the restrained architecture that surrounds you highlights the incredible golden altar. Light frames the altar from either side creating the most ethereal glow. While the rest of the building might be simpler in design, the altarpiece is pure baroque. Drama, glamour and gilding are everything that the baroque era brought and we can see it here in leaps and spurts!

One of my favourite parts about the churches in Mexico is the tile work. Every little side chapel or tiny niche is given the royal treatment by plastering them with gorgeous tiles. These minature tiles look like shining gems when the sunlight hits them just right. While some are just decorative others are painted to tell stories about the saints in whose chapels they sit. These tiles truly make Mexican churches feel so unique and gives you a sense of place when visiting.

Museo de El Carmen

Just outside the entrance to the church, you can find the Museo de El Carmen. The old monastery school and cloisters were transformed into a museum in the 1920s. Inside, the museum houses various objects that detail the history of the Carmelite order. When you enter through the lower cloisters you’re greeted by a small series of panels detailing the complete history of the convent and school. Throughout the rest of the museum, these histories are brought to life through a series of paintings, documents, sculptures and even the furniture which was used inside the monastery.

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As well as detailing life in the monastery, these historical paintings also depict what life was like in San Ángel in the 18th and 19th centuries. It features an amazing collection of Colonial religious art. The baroque artist Cristóbal de Villalpando has many paintings here on display. He is most famous for his painting which now hangs in the Metropolitan Cathedral. But inside this more intimate museum, you can view his pieces close up and see them in a more personal light.

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The Crypt

One of the most interesting, or for some, macabre parts of the museum is the old crypts. When the monastery was a working church, many people would pay to be buried in such a holy place. These were both members of the Carmelite Order as well as wealthy benefactors.

But over the years, and after the fall of the religious institutions, many of these bodies were forgotten. Only in the 20th century were they uncovered during the monastery’s restoration. The bodies left here were miraculously preserved because of the rich soil by which they were surrounded. They were essentially mummified. With no one to claim the bodies, the museum decided to leave them where they rested, and now visitors can give view their wrinkled flesh up close and personal. Preserved for the ages inside their velvet-lined wooden and glass caskets.

Hours & Admission: 52 pesos | Free on Sundays, closed on Mondays

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Plaza del Carmen

Head back to the main intersection at Madero and the Avenue de la Revolution to cross over to Plaza del Carmen. The brilliant-coloured buildings that surround the square blend in amongst the vibrant flowers in the garden beds in the middle of the plaza. While the Plaza de Jacinto might be the larger and most popular square in the city, Plaza del Carmen is by far my favourite. Its quaint and cramped quarters are so joyful, with locals sitting out on the benches, chatting with friends, in the early morning. Watching the artists set up their canvases as the sun rises.

San Angel Art Market

On Saturdays, this is where the start of the San Ángel art market can be found. One of the most wonderful things about the San Ángel art market is not just for tourists. Unlike some more touristy markets around the city, this market is meant for the locals. And many people come here, from far and wide, in search of the perfect art piece for their home. The atmosphere is intoxicating, everyone admiring the newest art pieces from their favourite local painters. Rainbow-coloured umbrellas dot the skyline, protecting fresh paint from the harsh rays of the sun.

Architecture around Plaza El Carmen

Even if you don’t come on a weekend, this small Plaza is a wonder to behold. It is surrounded on all sides by incredible historical buildings, important to the neighbourhood’s history. Even in just this one square, you can get a slice of the wonderfully preserved architecture that makes this neighbourhood such a gem to visit. Examples of baroque, neoclassical and neocolonial houses can be found right here. And many have been perfectly preserved since this part of town managed to escape the urbanization of the city’s centre.

House of Chucho el Roto

To the southeast, you’ll see a brilliant yellow building with bright red trim on the corner. This is the old House of Chucho el Roto or House of The Two Courtyards. This building is a wonderful example of Mexican neoclassical styles popular during the Protofio Diaz era. The house was named because it was designed with two courtyards, a lavish expense at this time. The main courtyard was built to entertain and house splendid gardens. The secondary courtyard where the carriages and stables were placed. This allowed the home to separate the working part of the house from the relaxing retreat these country homes aimed to create.

Chucho el Roto

The house was built in the 19th century for the philanthropist Francisco de Urquiaga. A popular legend about this home states that it was the hiding place for the famous bandit Jesús Arriaga. Arriaga was also nicknamed “Chucho el Roto,” hence the other name for the house. Arriaga was somewhat of a Robin Hood-type character, robbing from the wealthy and giving to the poor. This house was reported to be connected to the underground tunnels built by the Dominicans. The tunnels could be accessed through the basement and led to the nearby Plaza San Jacinto. Making it a perfect getaway for a legendary bandit.

Sadly, Arriaga was eventually captured and died in prison. But his legend lived on long past his death. And fictional stories became even more popular after his passing. Today it houses the Library of the Revolutions of Mexico. Very apt, considering it was the hideout of this legendary anti-establishment character who would have been a staunch supporter of the revolutions.

Mercado del Carmen

On the north side of the Plaza sits the popular Mercado del Carmen. This hip communal-style eatery and art gallery are housed in an old mansion dating back to the 18th century. It was also used as an English school for the upper classes of San Agnel during the 1960s and 70s. The gorgeous blue of the house blends in almost perfectly with the sky on a clear day, making it feel at one with heaven above.

Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga

On the northwest corner of the plaza, along Calle de la Amargura is the Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga. The brilliant burnt orange exteriors and 18-century facade welcome you onto one of the most luxurious streets in the city. It was designed in the neoclassical style with baroque-style balconies.

The home was originally built for Francisco de Fagoaga, the head of a powerful silver and gold merchant. His family was one of the first to start the trend of moving their mansions out of the central city and into the countryside. His house set the tone for other wealthy haciendas built in the era and unsurprisingly lots of future houses follow the same template. It was truly a trendsetter. The orange contrasts so well with the dense green foliage and pink flowers that bloom across the facade.

Bishop’s House 

Continue along Calle de la Amargura towards the end of the street, blocked by the corner of the old Bishop of Tenagra’s mansion. Joaquín Fernández de Madrid y Canal served as the Bishop’s adobe here in San Ángel. A Bishop was a highly regarded figure in the community. As such, the friars wanted to build a house that would impress! His house was built in 1631 (!) and is one of the best-preserved pieces of history in San Ángel. Long after the revolution, the house still stood as a well sought-after real estate piece. It was home to various famous Mexican like poet José Zorrilla, historian José María Agreda and politician and general Antonio López de Santa Anna. Today, the house serves as an art gallery hosting rotating exhibitions featuring incredible Mexican artists.

Plaza San Jacinto

Turn south past the Plaza Tenanitla (dedicated to the original name of the colonial) and make your way into the grand Plaza San Jacinto. The Plaza was named the Church of San Jacinto, located just on the west side of the square. But we’ll learn more about the church later when you go inside. The little town square popped up here as it was surrounded on all sides by the church, convent and orphanage. It quickly became the heart of the community in the 18th century and continues on as such today!

 St. Patrick Battalion

On the far west side of the Plaza, on the wall opposite, you’ll see a large plaque dedicated to the St. Patrick Battalion. “Why is there a dedication to Irish soldiers in Mexico City?” you might be wondering. In 1847, during the Mexican War for independence, Irish, German and even American immigrants came over to Mexico. They wanted to help fight for Mexico’s freedom, against the United States. The battalion was one of the fiercest and responsible for a huge majority of the deaths on the American side. So when they were caught, their punishments were brutal. They were executed right here in San Jacinto square, in front of the famous church. But their legend lives in on this plaque stands in their honour. The memory of their fighting vigour an inspiration to others who would continue the fight and win the freedom of the nation.

Diego Rivera

Make your way to the centre of the Plaza and look across the elegant central fountain. There, you will see a bronze easel with the burst of Diego Rivera emblazoned into the cartouche. As Rivera was a resident of the San Angel for many years, local artists inspired by Rivera wanted to commemorate him for generations to come. There is something wonderful about Rivera’s face looking over at the artists in the square selling their works in the square. Continuing his passion for supporting Mexican artists, even from the great beyond.

Saturday Art Market

By far the most popular thing to see in the square is to peruse the incredible Saturday Art Market. The market was established here in the 1960s. Interestingly enough, the origins of the market were due to an American, Jim Tillet, who had moved to Mexico City. He brought the concept of a weekly artisan fair to Mexico City, and the idea immediately took off. The art is both meant for the locals to enjoy as well as the tourists, highlighting the beauty of the Mexican landscape and vibrant culture. There were so many amazing artists of all different styles and mediums. My favourites were the ones that were designed to look like Lotería cards.

In addition to paintings, this Plaza is also home to craftspeople. Here you can find artisan pottery, textiles and even clothing. While some of it is a bit touristy things there are also really unique designers and artists. Prices tend to be a little more expensive here in San Angel but the quality is there to match.

There are often musicians strolling around through the market, entertaining the crowds and creating a more inviting and charming atmosphere. Street food vendors pop up selling sweet treats and salty snacks to satisfy your cravings. Art hunting is hungry work!

Handicraft Shops

If you opt to visit San Angel outside of the weekend, you can still find lots of different handicraft shops open around the square throughout the week. Shops like the Bazar San Ángel, María Bonita and Local México all sell gorgeous handmade decor and art pieces for your home. The spirit of the art market lives on long past the weekend so don’t feel like you’ll have missed it all if you can only visit during the week.

Museo Casa del Risco

On the north side of the Plaza Jacinto, hidden behind the opulent trees, is an old terra-cotta-coloured building with ‘Museo Casa del Risco‘ emblazoned in brass along the fence. Inside you’ll find an old residence dating back to the 17th-century that has since been transformed into a museum. The museum recreates the look of a traditional San Angel house as it would have looked in the 18th century. Casa del Risco has a fascinating history as it served as a residence, a military barracks and a hospital.

Fuente del Risco

The house’s main feature that people come to see is the great porcelain fountain. The fountain, or “Fuente del Risco,” is located inside the main central courtyard. It was made in the late 18th century in the opulent Baroque or “ultra baroque” style popular in Mexico City during that period.

While it looks like it is merely decorative, the fountain’s design was actually an ingenious way to preserve broken porcelain. Back then, painted porcelains were extremely expensive and yet, just like today, accidents happen and you might end up breaking a plate that costs more than a used car does today. Turning them into an art sculpture like this was a way to preserve and display even the broken pieces.

Embedded within the fountain you can spot Chinese blue and white porcelain, plates from the Ming Dynasty, green porcelain from Japan, Spanish Talavera ceramics and, of course, the homegrown ceramics of Puebla. Entire bowls, plates, cups and sauces are also scattered together with broken pieces of pottery to create this magical-looking fountain. The niches are designed to look like pearlescent shells and conches and the piece is dotted with mermaid sculptures. Even here in the hill of San Angel do we find people dreaming of the ocean.

There is so much else to see inside the museum, from Baroque art, religious sculptures, antique stained glass and recreations of 18th-century living space. But if all you want to see is the fountains, it’s easy to do so as admission to the museum is free.

Admission: Free | Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am – 5 pm

Antiques Fair

On the weekends, just outside the museum, you’ll find high-end vintage and antique sellers bringing out their wares. This was almost as incredible as the museum itself, it felt like just outside you could literally buy items you’d just seen inside the museum. Paintings from the 19th century, religious objects and gorgeous pieces of antique jewellery. The prices are pretty high but even I was almost swayed into buying a locket from 1898! There are some real treasures so if you have the money to spend you’ll discover some amazing pieces in this marketplace.

Bazaar Sábado

If you don’t like sifting through the pop-up stands outside in the plaza, you can head into the Bazaar Sábado. The Bazaar Sábado is located inside a 17th-century red-painted mansion and dates back to the 1960s. Here you can find the giant home filled with over 100 permanent artisan shops selling everything from textiles to jewellery, ceramics and metalwork. Many of these craftspeople are award winners, so their prices are going to reflect that status, but the work is unparalleled. Personally, I prefer the stuff found on the street, but if you’re looking for something more upmarket, this is the place for you.

Inside the central open-air courtyard is a wonderful eatery serving up traditional breakfast and lunch street food. It can get pretty busy right at 12 pm but if you prefer to eat a bit early or late you’ll find more tables open. The food here is wonderful and a great place to try some amazing street food like Tlacoyos, quesadillas and gorditas.

Villa San Jacinto

If the Bazaar Sabado courtyard is too busy you can hop across the Plaza and make your way to the stunning courtyards of the Villa San Jacinto. This 19th-century house has been preserved and transformed to be enjoyed by present-day visitors. The Cafe de las Artes is a gorgeous little eatery inspired by the architecture of the Porfiriato era. Walking up the stairs, you are greeted by this incredible grisaille style stained glass window, bohemian lamps and the Catalan vaults.

You can also study the amazing remodelled garden filled with beautiful sculptures. The cafe sells lots of different drinks and has homemade desserts and sandwiches if you’re feeling a bit peckish. Sitting outside you can get pretty hot but is a beautiful place to admire the rotating selection of art work on display.

Parroquia San Jacinto

Heading back onto Calle Benito Juárez, walk just a few meters where you’ll find an unassuming set of stairs which leads you into the green oasis outside of the Parroquia San Jacinto. The Parroquia San Jacinto or San Jacinto Parish was founded by the Dominicans in 1564. The Dominican order had discovered a small waterfall nearby and utilized the water to power their spinning and weaving equipment. This allowed them to produce lots of different kinds of textiles. They sold them off and used the funds to fund the building of the church and the plush gardens.

Walking inside the church, the thing that immediately catches your eyes is the ornate churrigueresco-style altar. The rest of the interior of the church is pretty austere but there is something so charming about the simplicity. Be sure to poke your head around the cloisters inside the church. This is the perfect place to escape the sun for a minute and walk through the shaded walkways and central fountain.

The Garden

The contrast between the rather subdued building and the incredibly bright colours of the gardens is a wonderful pairing. In the centre of the garden is a fountain with a huge cross in the centre. This was the first cross ever carved in Mexico. Looking closely at it you can see elements from both the Christian and Pagan faiths.

Surrounding the church are cedars, eucalyptus and pine trees. I always feel like this little hidden away yard is most reminiscent of the old orchards of San Angel.

Plaza de Los Cielos

Walking back outside, take a stroll down the Calle Benito Juárez towards the Plaza de los Cielos. This little corner is a gem of the colonial-era architecture that remains in this neighbourhood. Beautifully decorated in ancient jacaranda and vibrant bougainvilleas pour over the stone walls. The little Plaza de Los Cielos is surrounded on the two sides by the old walls of the former monastery.

Plaza de los Arcángeles

Continue north along Árbol street, turning left on Segunda Cda. de Frontera, where you’ll discover one of the most peaceful yet stunning streets anywhere in Mexico City. The walls here are covered in foliages, and when they bloom in bright purple and blue, it feels like walking through a tunnel of flowers.

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At the end of the street, you’ll find the secret Plaza de Los Arcángeles. A nook tucked into the neighbourhood’s corner features a series of benches under a series of stone arches. In the centre of the small gardenette is a shrine to the Virgin of Guadalupe tucked inside the hole of a tree. The name of the Plaza comes from three large sandstone benches named after the Archangels; Gabriel, Rafael and Michael. It’s a fantastically peaceful place and well worth the three-minute detour!

Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada

Walk back up Arbol and west along with Calle Hidalgo. On the northwest corner is one of the more historic homes of San Angel. Casa de los marqueses de Selva Nevada was owned by Ana Ortiz de Móxica in the end of the 18th century. It would later go on to the owned by María Josefa Rodríguez de Pinillos, the ambassador of Austria-Hungary in Mexico. Maria is responsible for the majority of the renovations we can see today. One of the most impressive parts of the building is the gorgeous wooden gates set between the beautiful white painted trim and ochre-coloured exterior. The door was designed with traditional elements of Mudejar decoration.

Casa Blanca

Continue along the Calle Hidalgo until you reach the large white house at #43. This is called the Casa Blanca, or “white house,” a 17th-century hacienda owned by the Oploca counts. Look closely at the coat of arms above the door to see the design of this family’s old shield. During its life in San Angel, the house was once home to the second-largest orchard in the neighbourhood. All hidden away behind the beautiful parapets of the white house. A small plaque on the front of the house honoured it as a place of historical significance. During the Second Franco-Mexican War, this house served as a bunker for French and American soldiers.

Legen of the Casa Blanca

But the most significant thing about this house is the legend that goes along with it. If you walk slightly further away from the front door, you’ll see a large wrought iron balcony towards the back of the house. The story goes that the woman who once lived here had the love of her life go off to war. She watched him leave from this balcony and would return to it every day, waiting for his return. But he never would come home, and she died an old woman, standing on the balcony, heartbroken. Eternally waiting for her true love to come home. Her ghost is said to still haunt the upper balcony so keep your eyes peeled for her wailing cries.

Licenciado | Leandro Valle

Continue down Hidalgo until you reach Licenciado street and walk north. This is another fantastic example of just how amazing even the ordinary homes in this neighbourhood are. Walls are dripping in ivy and each new facade is painted in a different vibrant colour. Rich wooden doorways and fantastical wrought iron gates protect entry from the street into the secretive homes inside.

Although there might not be any specific historical sights here, these are the streets that make visiting a neighbourhood like San Angel so worth it! The road curves to the right and turns into Leandro Valle. Eventually, popping you outright outside Avenue Altavista. Bringin you to the front steps of the famous Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo

Standing from across the street is the best way to introduce yourself to this famous home. You can see the red and white building on the right, which served as Diego Rivera‘s studio contrasted by the bright periwinkle painted studio for Frida Kahlo. The two homes are connected via the large walkway on the top floor. The entire design of the homes is symbolic of their love. Two very different artists and lovers that are yet forever connected. This was Rivera’s dream home that he had commissioned by architect and friend Juan O’Gorman. O’Gorman is well known for many different famous buildings in Mexico City including the incredible designs inside the UNAM campus.

The museum leads you through both houses to see their studios, living spaces and a gorgeous rooftop view across the neighbourhood of San Angel. To get a complete guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo you can read our full guide here.

San Angel Inn

To end your day in San Angel, head back across the street and to the historic San Angel Inn. In my honest opinion, the food isn’t the best here. It was probably one of the most disappointing meals I’ve had in Mexico City. And for what you get, it’s overpriced. But that being said, nothing can compete with this restaurant’s history, decor, and architecture.

My recommendation is to arrive before or after their lunch or dinner rush. And opt for only a drink and perhaps a dessert or snack. This way you can still enjoy the incredible environments but don’t need to worry about spending too much on subpar food. Plus, our margaritas were some of the best we’ve ever had so there are some definite gems to be found!

History

The best way to describe this place is an institution. The building itself dates back to 1616! It was originally the Our Lady of Santa Ana Monastery, built by Hernando Aragonés. Surrounding the monastery was a series of superb orchards and rich agave gardens. They produced a large amount of pulque here over the years, an iconic drink found only in Mexico. Despite changing hands many times over the years, much of the original gardens have been preserved to enjoy today.

History of San Angel Inn

In 1777, the old monastery was purchased by Ramon Goicoechea, who converted it into his family mansion. The hotel was also owned by musician Carlos Prieto who hosted classical music concerts inside. Even today, this tradition continues with live music played throughout the restaurant. Many years later, in 1908, the property was transformed into a large hotel and restaurant. The new owners sold off the excess land, which turned into the neighbourhood of Altavista. The huge mansion was divided up to make all different spaces, from guest rooms to the various restaurants and event spaces we can visit today.

Walking through the hallways, courtyards, and different rooms feels like being inside a living museum. The walls are covered in artworks collected by all the different owners who called this place home over the years. Famously, this restaurant was so popular that it was even notable for hosting various Mexican revolutionaries from Emiliano Zapata to Pancho Villa and Zapata. They were even seen singing a unity pact right here in the restaurant!

This brings us to the end of this incredible tour of San Angel. I hope you’ve enjoyed the sights we’ve seen along the way. Let me know in the comments which stop was your favourite or other treasures you’ve discovered along the way!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Guide to the Artistic and Creative Corners of San Angel, Mexico City Walking Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Diego Rivera was a Mexican painter, muralist, and pioneer in the art of social realism. He is best known for his monumental frescoes depicting Mexican history from the conquest to the revolution. His work has been exhibited worldwide, housed in the most prestigious museums. But the best examples of Diego Rivera’s work can be found here in Mexico City. In public spaces as well as time-honoured museums. This guided tour takes you across the city, diving into unknown corners and popular tourist sites. So come with me on a walking tour in the footsteps of Diego Rivera.

Table Of Contents

1. About Diego Rivera
2. Start of the Tour: El Cardenal
3. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
4. Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central
5. Palacio de Bellas Artes
6. Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters
7. Former College of San Ildefonso
8. Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez
9. Antigua Academia de San Carlos
10. Palacio Nacional
11. Cárcamo de Dolores
12. Panteón de Dolores
13. Coyoacan and San Angel
14. Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
15. Plaza San Jacinto
16. Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
17. Casa Azul
18. Frida Kahlo Park
19. Museo Anahuacalli
20. Museo Dolores Olmedo

About Diego Rivera

Diego Rivera was born, along with his twin, in Guanajuato, Mexico, in 1886. Sadly, his twin brother died only two years after they were born. Even at such a young age, his twin’s loss significantly impacted Rivera. Perhaps this event created the storm of passion, artistry and creativity Rivera was known for. In fact, it was after his brother died that Diego began to paint. Perhaps as a means to deal with his grief.

Early Education & Artistic Career

Diego began art studies at the Academy of San Carlos in Mexico City at ten years old. The school was located in the heart of the city’s historic centre. The spark of creativity was ignited when he left his small town and studied in the big city. Diego was so talented that the school sent him to study in Europe. All of the greats were sent to Europe as it was seen as the centre of artistic creations.

Diego first studied in Spain, and after success there; he went to study in the pinnacle of art cities; Paris. Rivera loved Pars and lived there for years. He was inspired by the work of artists such as Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque. He immersed himself in the immerging style of Cubism and Paul Cézanne’s post-impressionism. From all these inspiring artists, Diego began to incorporate bolder colours, simpler forms and even abstract elements into his painting. This new style of painting demanded the viewer’s attention. Some paintings scream; they do not whisper. And Diego wanted his art to cry out.

Diego’s Love Life

It was in Paris where Diego met his first wife, Angelina Beloff. A fellow artist from Russia. Despite his atypically handsome appearance, Diego was a lothario. Always with a woman wed and a different one in his bed. During his marriage to Beloff, he was also in a relationship with Maria Vorobieff-Stebelska. Maria would give birth to Marika, Rivera’s first daughter.

Rivera divorced Beloff when he moved back to Mexico City in 1922. Soon after arriving back in Mexico, he met and married Guadalupe Marín. The new couple had two daughters together, named Ruth and Guadalupe.

Diego and Frida

But their relationship also didn’t last, as he was already having another affair with young Frida Kahlo. He divorced Guadalupe Marin in 1929 and married Frida a few months later. He was 44 years old, while she was just 22. Frida and Diego were like fire on fire. Both with huge personalities and huge tempers. But their tumultuous relationship fueled their art. They were both unfaithful during different parts of their marriage. But even these extramarital companions couldn’t soothe the wounds they caused each other. They eventually divorced in 1939. Only after Frida’s death in 1955 did Rivera marry again. This time to his long-time agent, Emma Hurtado.

Mexican Muralism

Diego is best known for his work in the Mexican Muralism movement. When he returned to Mexico City, it was under the influence of the Mexican ambassador to France, Alberto J. Pani. The new Mexican Minister of Education, José Vasconcelos, was undertaking a new program of government-sponsored Mexican murals. These murals would be installed all over cities across the country. It was the government’s attempt to reunify the country post-Mexican revolution. The murals were meant to promote political ideas, depict real Mexican society (the good and the bad) and reflect views of the social revolution. To help those who could not read or attend school learn their history.

Rivera’s Unique Style

The three artists who undertook this project were called “the big three” or “The Three Greats.” The group was composed of Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco and David Alfaro Siqueiros. Through these murals, inspired by the national identity of Mexico, Rivera developed his iconic native style. This style was based on large, simplified figures and bold colours with an Aztec influence. It is this style that made Diego an icon and gave Mexico its own national art style.

Rivera became so popular that he was called to the United States to bring his style of mural painting to public buildings in the US. He spent a few years working in the US until a disagreement with the Rockerfellers on a large commission fueled his charge back to Mexico City. He continued working on some of the most important commissions of his life until his death on November 24, 1957. After this death, the government of Mexico declared Rivera’s works as “monumentos historicos” due to their importance in the country’s art history.

Start of the Tour: El Cardenal

To start your morning exploring Mexico City in the footsteps of Diego Rivera, you MUST book yourself brunch at El Cardenal. Inside the restaurant is a domineering mural, an artistic replica of one of the most famous Rivera murals. Sitting under a work of art is a great way to bask in its glory while enjoying some delicious Mexican cuisine.

El Cardenal is located inside the Hilton Reforma Hotel. But originally, the hotel which stood in this place was the Hotel del Prado. The Hotel del Prado was built in 1946 as one of the most luxurious hotels in the city. To cement the hotel’s status as one of the top-tier establishments, they hired Diego Rivera to paint a mural inside their new dining room. Sadly, almost nothing of the old hotel remains, as the Hotel del Prado collapsed after the infamous 1985 Mexico City earthquake. The only thing pulled from the wreckage was the mural, which miraculously could be salvaged. The original mural was moved into the nearby Museo Mural Diego Rivera. But this artistic reimagining was made for the new hotel dining room to keep the same spirit of the original.

Dining at El Cardenal

El Cardenal is a small chain of restaurants found all over the city. Their mantra is preserving national folk cuisine and putting it forward for guests to enjoy. Diego himself loved to eat. Although he wasn’t a great cook, food was a major part of his life. Diego and Frida would frequent the marketplace to draw inspiration. And, before leaving, I would fill up on ingredients to bring home. Famous, Diego would end each night with a late supper of hot chocolate and pan dulce. One of his favourite meals that Frida would make for him was a chicken mole. He loved traditional Mexican cuisine and was passionate about preserving it. And this restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy so many traditional dishes.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

After breakfast, head over to the Museo Mural Diego Rivera. Despite being called a “museum,” the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is simply one large room designed to house the preserved mural from the Hotel del Prado. Thankfully admission is just over a dollar, so it’s more than worth a visit! After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the mural was saved (in pieces) and moved to the museum. Here, it was reassembled with care and restored to as close to its original condition as possible.

Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central

The mural is called Sueño de Una Tarde dominical en la Alameda Central (or Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central.) The exquisite mural spanned over 15 meters wide and was painted in 1947. The setting of the painting is, as mentioned in the title, Alameda Central. Alameda Central is a nearby park that has been a gathering place for locals for hundreds of years. The park was built in 1592 under the order of Viceroy Luis de Velasco II. It is now considered the oldest public park in the Americas. But long before it was a public city park, the area was an important site for the Aztec community. It was here where they held their enormous marketplace long before Spanish colonization.

Alameda Central

Alameda is from the Spanish word “álamo,” which means “grove of poplars.” The poplar trees that were once spread out through the park sadly do not remain today. Today, the trees have been replaced by ash, chestnut and willow trees. The group pictured in the park is filled with historical caricatures from over 400 years of Mexican history. They have all gathered together in this dream of Rivera’s. Although the dream sometimes feels more like a nightmare. Many historical paintings are told by the victors. Therefore they scrub away the sins of their past. But Diego, in all his works, never shied away from showing the grim realities of life. Violence and corruption permeated the history of Mexico.

Left Side of the Mural

The scenes from the painting can be read chronologically from left to right. You can get right up close to the mural in the museum to view these life-sized figures. Getting so close lets you feel the energy depicted within the scene. The piece seems to reverberate; gunshots fire, horses rear, police seize innocent indigenous children and the echoes of revolution swell in the background.

Hernan Cortez

One of the first figures of note to find is Hernan Cortez. You can see him off on edge to the left, dressed in his traditional military armour. His hands are posed in prayer as he is posed in front of flames that burn behind him. The flames of war he ignited. Beside him are victims of the Spanish Inquisition. Priests can be seen brutally punishing the victims, and a man all in black is in mid-swing of his cat of nine tails whip. One of the victims wears a sanbenito robe and conical hat. The iconic hat is now sometimes referred to as a “dunce cap.” The garments were worn by penitent heretics before they were put to the auto-da-fé. This “act of faith” was a ritual of public penance where the victims were killed by burning.

Below the large tree on the left, you can see two generals facing each other. The general on the left with the feathered admiral hat is Mexican president López de Santa Anna. Beside him is American General Scott. In 1846, during the presidency of López de Santa Anna, the Americans invaded Mexico City. And their encampment was actually located right inside Alameda Central.

Benito Juárez

Despite being farther into the background, the image of Benito Juárez, president of Mexico, is almost the largest face on the entire left side. He is seen holding a series of papers in his hands. Benito Juárez was President of Mexico from 1857 to 1872. During his time in office, Mexico suffered a second struggle for independence, a second defeat for the European powers, and a second reversal of the conquest. His greatest legacy was signing the Juárez Law, which declared all citizens equal before the law and restricted the privileges of the Catholic Church and the Mexican army.

Center Mural

The centre of the frame is the most vibrant and dreamlike part of the painting. It features bourgeois men and women in their Sunday best. In the background, the lush tropical park with a large fountain seems to glow with almost an ethereal neon hue. Above the scene in the centre is a huge hot air balloon flying above. The balloonist waves his Mexican flag, and the balloon is emblazoned with the Mexican Republic insignia.

La Calavera Catrina

The centre is dominated by a large, white skeletal figure called La Calavera Catrina. La Calavera Catrina (also called ‘the Dapper Skeleton’ or ‘elegant skull’) was originally conceived as a black and white cartoon. It was first drawn in 1910 by illustrator and lithographer José Guadalupe Posada. Rivera actually portrays Posada in this mural as well. He is seen to the right of La Calavera Catrina, holding her arm under his.

Originally, La Calavera Catrina was meant to be a caricature. She represented the elite of Mexico City during the reign of Porfirio Diaz. The caricature symbolizes a Mexican woman who has given up her Mexican culture and adopted high-society European aesthetics. Depicted with her huge Europe-styled hat and expensive feathers. And yet the woman is a skeleton. As if to say that no matter how you see yourself in this world, we are all the same underneath it all. Just bones. Over the years, La Catrina has become the symbol of death in Mexico. Her visage is a traditional part of the Day of the Dead celebrations.

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Rivera’s Calavera Catrina

In Diego’s mural, he has given the original sketch a whole body. While the face and large hat mirror the original drawing to a T, Diego has added some new elements. This includes a sumptuous feathered boa that hangs around her neck. But if you look closely, you’ll see the feathered boa still has a head and tail. This is meant to represent the Aztec serpent god Quetzalcóatl. Around her waist, La Calavera Catrina wears a belt with a gold buckle in the shape of an old Aztec symbol. This symbolizes La Calavera Catrina’s transition from caricature to a new form of revered god in the people’s eyes. She wears the body of the old god around her neck as she steps in to take its place.

Young Diego

In La Calavera, Catrina’s other hand, she holds the hand of a young Diego Rivera. Rivera has a playful little smile on his face. You can see a small toad poking out its head in his breast pocket, and in his other pocket, out comes a green snake. The umbrella he holds in his hand has the face of a bird, perhaps the Crested Caracara, often referred to as the “Mexican Eagle.” 

Frida Kahlo

Directly behind Diego stands Frida Kahlo. Frida’s hand lovingly rested on Diego’s shoulder. She holds a medallion with the yin-yang symbol in her opposite hand. Famously, Diego and Frida were polar opposites, yet they were drawn to each other despite these differences. In Chinese philosophy, the symbols depict the fundamental duality in humanity: female (“Yin”) and male (“Yang.”) Both Frida and Diego frequently painted images of each other in their artworks. In each of these paintings, there is always a coded message about the state of their relationship.

Throughout Diego’s career, Frida was always thought to be working in Diego’s shadow. She was known more as “the wife of Deigo Rivera” rather than an artist in her own right. And yet, here she is, the elder partner. Seemingly guiding Diego with her hand on his shoulder. Frida’s health was declining fast when Rivera painted this mural. Perhaps his small stature in the painting also reflects his helplessness in the face of her impending death.

Right Side of the Mural

To the right of the central group, we can see Porfirio Díaz looking down on them. Dressed in his military uniform and feathered hat, his decerning eyes gaze angrily at the group gathered. Díaz served seven terms as the President of Mexico. But this was better known as a dictatorship in the later years. Díaz started out as someone who aimed to turn the country around and free the people from the French. But once he came to power, his policies only benefited his circle of allies. The peasantry did not share in Mexico’s prosperity, leading to the Mexican Revolution of 1910. 

Below Díaz, on the ground, we see an indigenous family being forced to leave the park. They are being pushed away by a series of police officers. This is how Rivera uses transparency in his art. He aims to depict the racism that even the Mexican people have towards their indigenous community.

Francisco I. Madero

On the far right, up in a tree in front of a large Mexican flag, we can see Francisco I. Madero. He is smiling and waving his black hat up in the air. Madero was the head of the movement that overthrew Porfirio Díaz. Sadly, Madero was murdered during the Ten Tragic Days of 1913. His murderers, General Victoriano Huerta and Manuel Mondragón are also portrayed in the mural. Their menacing grey faces with prominent mustaches are hidden behind the crowd in the lower right corner. 

Also in the lower right corner are a group of women important to Rivera. This includes his ex-wife Guadalupe Marín, his daughters Guadalupe and Ruth Rivera Marín and his great friend Rosa Rolando Covarrubias. In the arms of his daughter Guadalupe, she holds her young son Juan Pablo. Perhaps by depicting his grandson in the photo, Diego wanted to cap the mural off with an image of hope. Hope for the future and for a better world for his grandson.

Alameda Central

After touring the museum, take a walk in the actual Alameda Central. Strolling through the gardens, monuments and pathways, you can get a sense of the vibrant atmosphere that must have inspired the setting for Rivera’s artwork. While the eastern portion of the park was for leisurely promenades, the park’s west end held a more nefarious purpose. This western section was originally built during the Mexican Inquisition. It was known as the “Burning Place.” Here, convicted witches and people accused of treason were publicly burned at the stake. While you don’t immediately think of Mexico as a place of witch trials, these inquisitions spread worldwide. When the inquisitions ended in 1770, the burning plaza was destroyed and transformed into an extension of the park.

One of the most important monuments is the “Hemiciclo de Benito Juárez.” This large semi-circle of eight towering marble columns with a central plinth is topped with a group of neoclassical statues. In the center is statesman Benito Juárez himself. Juárez was the 26th president of Mexico and, most importantly, the first president of Mexico of indigenous origin. On either side of him are two allegorical female statues representing the fatherland and law. On the pedestal he sits, you can see the inscription “Al benemerito Benito Juárez la Patria.” This translates into “To the meritorious Benito Juárez, the Homeland.”

Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Palacio de Bellas Artes, with its iconic sunset tiled roof, is one of the most iconic images of Mexico City. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and is aptly named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico.” The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical. But inside, you’ll discover a plethora of modern Art Deco and Art Nouveau stylings. Adding to the incredible decor of the interior is a series of murals wrapping around the walls. Each of these murals was commissioned by star painters of the Mexican Muralism movement. This includes; José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Jorge González Camarena, Roberto Montenegro, Manuel Rodríguez Lozano and (most famously) Diego Rivera.

Man, Controller of the Universe

On the 3rd floor is where you can find Diego Rivera’s Man, Controller of the Universe. The mural is a recreation of the original mural once painted for New York City’s Rockefeller Center in 1933. When it was first thought up by Rivera, he named it Man at the Crossroads. But halfway through the project, the Rockefellers and Rivera disagreed about the subject matter depicted in the mural. The piece was meant to represent aspects of contemporary social and scientific culture. While the Rockefellers loved Rivera’s work, a damning article by the New York World-Telegram called the mural “anti-capitalist propaganda.”

Rivera and Lenin

Rivera was furious by the statement. As a means of revolt, he added a portrait of Lenin hidden within the mural. This portrait had not been approved in his original sketches. But Rivera hoped it wouldn’t draw any attention by hiding among other large portraits. Unfortunately, right before the unveiling, the Rockefellers took notice and demanded it is painted over. Rivera refused, and the entire piece was destroyed. This was a massive blow to Rivera’s ego. He was quoted as saying, “Rather than mutilate the conception [of the mural], I shall prefer the physical destruction of the conception in its entirety, but preserving, at least, its integrity.”

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After its destruction, Rivera recreated it in Mexico City on a blank wall in the Palacio Belles Artes. Rivera had asked his assistance to take pictures of the original mural before it was torn. This ensured he could recreate it perfectly here at the Palacio Belles Artes. When he was finished, he named this version Man, Controller of the Universe. A much more powerful title and reflective of his overall worldview.

Reading the Mural

The mural is split up into three different sections. In the center is a workman turning a giant piece of machinery. As if he is controlling the world around him with this machinery. Rivera was a staunch atheist, and his idea of man being the controller of his own destiny, not god, is evidently presented here. On the right side of the mural are depictions of capitalism, and on the left are depictions of communism. As mentioned in the original title, the universe appears at a crossroads. And we don’t know which way the man in the center will turn the wheel…

Central Mural

Emerging from the lower portion of the workman’s body is a giant fist. In the tight grasp of the fist, we can see an orb. Inside the orb are images of atoms and cells dividing in the act of chemical and biological generation. An ethereal blue light glows from around the edge of the orb. And tendrils start to emanate and spread out onto the rest of the image.
Radiating from behind the man is a series of propeller-like shapes. Inside each shape are images on both the micro and macro levels. Images as far away as the cosmos or as close up as bacteria are all seen through a microscope. Rivera is telling us that man can see it all. Beneath the mechanical structure, you’ll notice a small garden growing. This is meant to represent Mexico’s controlled growth of rich natural resources.

Left Side of the Mural

To the mural’s left side, we can see a small grouping of high society women playing cards and smoking. Hidden within the group of women, Rivera painted a portrait of John D. Rockefeller. Painting him among the clueless and cruel elite was revenge for Rockefeller destroying Rivera’s mural in New York.

Outside of their “social circle,” just beside the elite, are the faces of haggard workers looking on. Exhausted, angry expressions paint their faces. Above them, riots roars and police on horseback swing their batons, trying to silence protesters. This is a harsh contrast to the carefree gambling parties on the right. They are entirely unaware of the reality of the world around them inside their bubble.

Charles Darwin

In the foreground, a group of students of different ethnic backgrounds sit in lecture chairs. They appear to be watching the scene unfold through the large oculus in front of them. They are the hope for tomorrow, and only through learning about the past will they shape a better future. To the students’ left, we can see an x-ray machine controlled by a timid bearded man who represents Darwin. He is surrounded on the floor by different animals, which his studies revolve around.

Above the group stands a giant classical marble statue of the Greek god Jupiter. He looks furious, raising his hand to the sky. But a thunderbolt appears to strike his hand and break it from the rest of the statue. Around his neck is a large wooden cross. Rivera points out how Christianity and the Greek gods were false and would be destroyed by this new world. For Rivera, past myths have no influence on the future, where science and our understanding of the natural world around us reign supreme.

Above the entire scene is an assemblage of faceless soldiers and war machinery. Each soldier wears a terrifying gas mask on their face, obscuring their identity. Above the soldiers, the sky is filled with planes against a blood-red sky. A comment from Rivera on the violence created by capitalism.

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Right Side of the Mural

While the left side seems focused on war, the right side is a socialist utopia. On the right, between the propellers, we can see that famous image of Lenin. The very same one, the Rockefellers, were so up in arms about. In Lenin’s hands, he holds diverse workers around him. To the left of the group with Lenin is one of the brightest parts of the mural. Four women are shown in brilliant white athletic uniforms against a brilliant backdrop. A beautiful symbol of the power and hope Rivera had for women.

Along the top edge of the right mural are a large group of men and women celebrating the Russian May Day rally. Each wears a red cap or scarf and flies flags to symbolize communism. On the far right, we see another classical sculpture depicting a seated Caesar with his head cut off. Around Casesar’s waist, he clutches a bundle wrapped with a belt displaying the nazi symbol. Rivera viewed Caesar as a man of material goods. His beheading was a message from Rivera to rid ourselves of these material obsessions.

Leon Trotsky

At the feet of the headless statue is a man with round glasses and white hair. This is Leon Trotsky, a Ukrainian-Russian Marxist revolutionary, political theorist and politician. Trotsky and Rivera were once good friends. Trotsky even came to live in Mexico City after being expelled from the Soviet Union. Despite their best efforts to keep him safe, Trotsky was assassinated in his home in Coyoacán. Trotsky holds a giant red flag, supported by the industrial workers around him, representing Marxist theory. In the bottom left corner, one of the workers can be seen sitting casually on the statue’s head from above.

Stand back and take the entire mural in as one large scene. By doing this, you can appreciate how the left, the capitalist society, feels grim. On the right, more emotions are on the people’s faces, more rich colours. The people on the left are controlled by the government and religious institutions, and only the elite are free. But on the right, communist society is given control and freedom to create its own universe. Controlled by the people.

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Diego and Frida’s Funerals

Another big connection that the Palacio Belles Artes has to Diego is that it was the designated location for the funeral of his ex-wife Frida Kahlo. And would go on to be where he would be laid in state after his own death. Diego arranged for Frida’s body to be laid out in the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The government agreed, only if they would make it an entirely non-political event. Diego agreed. But unbeknownst to him, one of Frida’s students came to pay their respects and threw a huge communist flag over her casket. The government threatened to remove her body, but Diego refused to let them. He said if they tried, he would carry her dead body in his arm. And sit with her on the palace’s steps. They reluctantly agreed, and the flag remained on her casket, one last act of defiance.

Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters

Take a walk along the pedestrian-only Av Francisco I. Madero west towards the inner portion of the Historic Centre. When you reach the República de Brasil, head north, crossing westward once more along Luis González Obregón street. A few steps down the street, you’ll immediately see the Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters. The enormous building is spread over an entire city block. The facades that face out onto the different bounding streets are each done in a unique architectural style. Changing depending on the era in which it was created.

Diego Rivera Murals

Walk inside the iron gates from the República de Argentina to enter the open-air courtyard. You’ll usually see two armed guards on either side of the doors. Since this is still a government office, they take security seriously. Tell them you are there to visit the Diego Rivera murals. The guards will usually let you in if there aren’t any private events. But they might do a quick security check of any bags, so don’t let that surprise you. Inside the doors, you’ll enter the first of two large adjoining courtyards. Covering the courtyard’s walls are 235 panelled murals painted by none other than Diego Rivera. This was Rivera’s first large-scale painting project.

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Rivera and Vasconcelos

When Rivera returned to Mexico from his studies in Europe, it was to participate in a new mural program started. The program was the pet project of the new Secretary of Public Education, José Vasconcelos. Vasconcelos thought that art was a powerful tool for education. He went about commissioning large-scale mural projects across the city to bring art to the public. This project took place after the great Mexican revolution. Art was to be used to help communicate to the people that this new government would guarantee the new life promised by the revolution. And the first building Vasconcelos wanted Diego Rivera to work on was aptly the same one he worked in.

Like many of his contemporaries, Rivera believed that easel painting was considered too aristocratic. He and his contemporaries thought large, public murals could reach a larger audience. Art didn’t need to be hidden away inside stuffy museums or only appreciated by those with a critical eye. Art was for everyone.

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Education Mural Themes

Rivera started work on the murals in 1923, which took the painter five years to complete. Despite the overly Greek-influenced exterior, these murals focused powerfully on the Mexican identity. The murals followed themes of the Mexican Revolution and the glorification of Mexican labourers. Rivera’s themes are divided by the two courtyards. The larger courtyard focuses on Labour, and the smaller courtyard is dedicated to the Mexican Fiesta. Unlike the European influence that paints the colonial parts of the city, these murals focused on traditional Mexican heritage.

Fiesta Courtyard

The smaller Fiesta Courtyard is the first one you’ll enter. Here there are murals on the ground floor depicting various meaningful events in the Mexican calendar. You’ll see scenes from the Deer Dance, the Day of the Dead and the Corn Fiesta. There are also murals featuring the Meeting on May 1st, Good Friday and the Ribbon Dance.

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Walk up the stairs to the second level, where you can view one of the most important of Rivera’s murals. This massive painting, called The Arsenal, portrays a group of revolutionaries preparing for battle. In the center, you can see the image of a young woman in red wearing a communist star on her shoulder. The woman who posed for this painting was none other than Frida Kahlo. He painted her when she was just a student, long before the two would be married. Hovering above the murals, Rivera painted a sprawling red banner. The banners span the entire wall length and connect one scene to the other. The text written upon it is lyrics to various revolutionary songs called “corridos.”

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Labor Courtyard

The larger courtyard surrounds a beautiful green garden full of lush foliage. In this area, you can see scenes depicting Mexican labourers. Using looms, you’ll find images of mineworkers, sugar mill labourers, and craftspeople. Women set about dying fabric, smelters work in hot ovens, and busy farmers sell their goods in the marketplace.

On the second-floor staircase are a series of murals highlighting Mexico’s diverse landscape. From the bright blue coastlines to the lush green mountains. The murals on the second level are dedicated to what Rivera considered the four primary elements of painting. These are light, colours, man and geometry.

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Former College of San Ildefonso

Head back outside and make your way to the Former College of San Ildefonso, now the Museo De San Ildefonso. As you walk towards the building, take a moment to study the architecture of the building. The ancient blood-red volcanic stones are contrasted with a series of elaborately designed windows. The vibrant stained glass still gleams in the sunlight even to this day.

You walk through the double arcade outside Justo Sierra to enter the building. Stand outside the door for a minute to appreciate the elaborate Neo-Churrigueresque architecture. Neo-Churrigueresque is also known as Ultra Baroque. The style developed primarily in Spain but made its way to their colonies. Here it seemed to find a loving home in the arms of the Mexican people who love decoration. The style is primarily identifiable by extremely expressive and florid decorative details. While these elements bleed into the rest of the building, their main cluster surrounds the entrances and facades.

Mexican Muralist Movement

Inside the old college, it’s here that the Mexican Muralist movement was said to be invented. The building was originally constructed in 1588 as a Jesuit College. But when the Jesuits were expelled, the school became a residence for soldiers in 1767. Then, in the 1860s, the building was once more transformed into a school by president Benito Juárez. Juárez took schooling out of the hands of the clergy and into the hands of the government. Back then, the school saw over 700 students in and out of doors daily.

Government Mural Program

As the school was brimming with activity, the government thought this spot would be the perfect spot to feature a new government-sponsored mural. They commissioned a series of murals with themes relating to Mexico’s history and the politics of the post-Revolution era. Various artists contributed to the art spread across the walls of the college. The artists included; Ramón Alva de la Canal, Fermin Revueltas, Fernando Leal, José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, and Diego Rivera.

The building remained a functioning college until 1978, when it finally closed its door. It wasn’t until 1992 that it was reopened as a public museum and cultural center. Today there is always a series of rotating exhibitions on display. Many of them feature subjects relating to art and archeology in Mexico.

Creation Mural

Admission into the museum costs 50 pesos as there are rotating exhibitions on display inside. But if you just want a peek at Rivera’s work, you can sneak inside the Bolívar Amphitheater. This is found to the left of the entrance. You can access the theatre without admission, so long as there is no performance inside. Inside the Bolívar Amphitheater is one of Diego Rivera’s earliest murals, The Creation. This singular mural took Rivera over a year to complete, spanning over a thousand square feet!

The entire piece is a symbolic composition combining mythological and religious motifs. Along the top, in the center of the mural, is a blue astrological sphere with three hands emanating. This represents the holy trinity, stretching outwards towards the audience. In the middle are images of Adam and Eve, flanked on either side by the muses; Love, Hope, Faith, Prudence, Justice, Strength, Wisdom and Science.

Rivera’s Early Style

In this painting, Rivera’s art style’s youth can be studied. His iconic, more abstract technique seems to be missing. As if he hasn’t found his authentic voice just yet. The piece follows a similar style to that of Italian Renaissance fresco paintings. But even within this early work, his use of geometric structure, powerful facial expressions and strong composition are persistent.

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Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez

Less than ten minutes from the college, you can make your way to the Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez. This simple community marketplace is home to a series of murals painted by Diego Rivera’s students. While the work wasn’t by Diego himself, I love the idea of seeing his ideologies passed down to the next generation. And studying the works allows you to appreciate Rivera’s impact on future artists.

Market Murals

The market was built in 1934, and at the time, it was known for being very modern. It spread over 12,450 square metres and featured a daycare, youth center, library and large auditorium. It was more than just a market; it was a community centre. But most importantly, the architect hired Diego Rivera’s students to paint murals. These murals would span the entire interior wall and ceiling with themes portraying socialist ideologies popular at the time in Mexico City.

The young artists were passionate about reflecting the exploitation of workers, peasants and miners, especially by the elite of Mexico. The murals also depicted the fight against the Nazis, fascism, and racism. When the murals were initially painted, they were thought to be the city’s fourth most important public murals. And yet, over the years, they began to deteriorate. After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the marketplace began to fall into disrepair. The humidity started to peel the paint, and as the area was losing its prominent status, vandalism was also a problem. The mural was all but lost to the ages. But thanks to a group of concerned merchants, restorations began in 2008. This ensured these pieces of national history would be preserved. Although restorations are ongoing, you can walk around the marketplace today to see many iconic paintings.

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Antigua Academia de San Carlos

Walk south down Calle Loreto, east across República de Guatemala and down La Academie. Here you’ll find the Academia de San Carlos. This was the first art academy in Mexico and the “new world.” They opened their doors in 1785 and primarily taught academic neoclassicism to their students.

But over the years, the students began to rebel against the learnings of teachers from Europe. They longed for their own national artistic identity. This came to a head in 1911 when the student began to strike. This strike would last over two years. The students demanded to be able to paint outdoors. They wanted to be able to experiment more in their artwork and eventually shift towards a modern form of painting. Diego Rivera was the leader they needed and became the academy director in 1929. He was the perfect choice to appease the students. His entire career has been about telling the story of the Mexican people and bringing modern art to the masses.

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Palacio Nacional

To finish off our tour of Diego Rivera’s murals in the historic centre, we must pay a visit to the Palacio Nacional (or National Palace). This is his piece-de-resistance. The Palacio Nacional is an enormous museum with so much to see and do. Entrance to the National Palace is free, although there is usually a long lineup to get inside. You need to leave a piece of ID with the guards at the door. Since the Palace is still home to the offices of the Mexican President, security is critical. They need to control the number of people and keep track of exactly who is inside. The entrance to the National Palace can be found on Moneda Street.

History of the Palace

The site of the building was once Moctezuma II’s Grand Palace. His great residence was built here in 1521. When Cortés first visited the Palace, he described it as having a surprising array of riches. The walls were made of marble, and the facade contained a carved shield of Mexico’s iconic eagle. With the snake in its claws. The building was modern, with sanitary facilities, fountains, gardens, and bedrooms with rich rabbit fur and feathers tapestries. In addition to being a royal residence for the rulers of the Aztec city, it was also a meeting place for the older tribe members. Here disputes and discussions would take place to ensure the wealth and happiness of their people.

Hernan Cortés

Sadly, after the invasion by the Spanish, Hernan Cortés seized the residence from the Aztecs. Cortés was so enamoured by the palace that he used it as his home. Passing it down to his son in later years. The Palace’s devastating fire in 1692 destroyed much of the original structure. Many of the original stones that could be recovered were used in the reconstruction efforts. However, the new palace was styled in the Baroque fashion of the time. It seemed that over time, every generation added its own touch to the building. And now, it looks more like a patchwork quilt of architectural ages.

History of Mexico Mural

Walking inside the National Palace, follow the signs for the ‘History of Mexico Murals.’ These can be found within the great courtyard, surrounded by Baroque arches. Walk up to the main stairwell, where you’ll immediately be struck by this immense masterpiece. The mural depicts the history of Mexico from the dawn of human existence through to the 1920s. Rivera started work on this mural in 1929, many years after his first mural project. The precision and confidence in his technical skills and expressive style are evident in this work of art. Rivera was decisive in using his art to communicate his ideologies about communism and the rejection of the colonizers. He wanted to bring the crimes of the past clearly into the minds of the people. To ensure these atrocities were never forgotten.

The main message of the mural surrounds the indigenous Mexican people’s struggles to preserve their culture, National identity and country against the brutal colonizers. Standing at the base of the stairwell, take a minute to appreciate the sheer grandeur of the entire piece. So much of the story is sad—a classic tale of good vs. evil. The goodly indigenous Mexicans had one of the most vibrant cultures. Yet, they were practically wiped out by the evil, invading Europeans.

If you squint and look at the entire piece, the bright colours and expressive shapes look powerful, hopeful and strong, just like the Mexican people. Despite the horrors of the past, the post-revolution population believed in the future of their country. Especially as it became an independent nation. And that their strength and perseverance would conquer evil and allow their great country to prosper.

North Wall 

Walk up the stairs to the landing in the center, and look up at the left side, or North Wall. This part of the mural depicts the indigenous Mexicans long before the arrival of the Spaniards. They are surrounded by the fantastical Mexican landscape all around them. The blue is almost heavenly —the large bright sunshine above casting all of them in celestial light. The Aztecs believed in the sun god, as seen in the all-seeing eyes painted onto the sun’s face. Just below the sun, you can also see an erupting volcano with Xiuhtecuhtli’s “the Lord of Fire” exploding from the mouth of the volcano. In the sky flies Quetzalcoatl, the Feathered Serpent deity and god of the wind and the rain.

The Valley of Mexico is spread along the horizon, with its amazing pyramids towering above the people. Standing in front of the pyramids are the Aztec leaders, guiding and looking after their citizens. In the left corner, you can see a small battle scene between two tribes. This violence was a common occurrence in any civilization. But the cultural costumes worn by the different tribes make this little vignette so interesting.

Farmers are tending to vivid corn crops, almost as bright as gold. Craftspeople in the lower right-hand side of the mural are busy weaving, making pottery, playing music, painting and writing on scrolls. This shows their modern civilization, full of technology, art and science! They were the farthest thing from “savages,” as the violent Spanish colonizers reported.

West Side, Main Wall 

We move from the north wall’s idyllic memories to the densely packed and violent images of the west wall. This is the mural straight ahead as you walk up the main stairs. It is the battle of the Mexican people against their oppressors. A story of hatred and war is woven into the fabric of Mexico’s history.

Lower Level Depictions

The lower part of the mural is riddled with images of Mexicans and Indians fighting against the heavily armoured Spanish and French cavalry. The beautiful and bright feathered costumes of the Aztec leaders crushed and fell under the feet of their enemies. Cortez can be seen in the middle of the painting, as he is the only mounted soldier with his face exposed. The rest of the attacker’s helmets are closed. But Rivera paints Cortez with his helmet raised, so his actions are not anonymous.

Cortez’s armies have modern weaponry making their defeat of the Aztecs a foregone conclusion. Despite being outgunned and outnumbered, the Aztecs fought valiantly against the Spanish on the right and left corners. All the while, the Aztecs are being watched over by a great golden eagle in the center. The eagle sits perched atop a cactus with a serpent in its mouth. The design of this symbol is rooted in the legend that the Aztec people would build their great city on the spot where they found an eagle eating a snake on top of a cactus. They called that place Tenochtitlan (Mexico City), and it was worth fighting for them.

Middle Depictions

In the middle of the mural, we see the horrors brought to Mexico by the Spaniards. Not only did they want to conquer the land, but they also wanted to abolish the Aztec religion. The Inquisition went about burning sacred books and religious imagery. You can see these fires burst out across the wall. Priests on the left-hand side can be seen forcefully converting the indigenous people to their new religion of Chrsitiniarity. The Spanish turned many natives into slaves, and these hard-working people were the creators of this “new world.”

Upper Arch Depictions

Under the five arches at the top of the wall are the various rulers of Mexico. Interesting to note is Rivera’s use of non-hierarchical representation. No one man is larger than the other. While some think it makes the mural more challenging to interpret or read, it is part of Rivera’s communist ideologies of equality.

Starting from the left, we see the French Rule and execution of Austrian Emperor Maximilian in 1867. Next to that, we see images of the Porfirian era. This era was coloured with a brutal dictatorial rule accomplished through consensus and repression. In the central arch, we see depictions of Independence and the Mexican Revolution. You can see a man with a mustache carrying a large red banner at the very top of the frame. This is revolutionary Emiliano Zapata, who was one of the leading men in the revolution. The red flag says “Tierra y Libertad,” which means “Land and Liberty.”

To the right, we see images from the Reform and Juarez eras. Benito Juarez was Mexico’s only Indigenous president and the founder of the new Mexican nation. Finally, on the far right, we have the invasion of Mexico by the US. Above the invading US army is the great eagle flying down to attack.

South Wall

The south wall to the left of the main stairwell depicts the future of the Mexican people. The imagery represents progress, prosperity and hopes for a better future. At the top of the mural is the image of Karl Marx holding his great Communist Manifesto on a large scroll. To the right of this is a man flying the Soviet flag. When the mural was painted, the Mexican people and Rivera himself had solid socialist tendencies. The Soviet flag can be seen throughout imagery from this era.

To the right of Karl is a scene of Mexican workers. They are being attacked and oppressed by police wearing large gas masks. This scene takes place in front of Mexico City’s skyline silhouette. While the other two murals are more fluid in their collage-like design, this mural is framed in harsh geometric metal beams. Inside these almost cage-looking rectangles are pictorial representations of what Rivera saw as negative social forces in high society. 

At the bottom of the painting is the image of a woman dressed in bright red. Look closely at her face to see if you can recognize the model. It is none other than his wife, Frida Kahlo. Frida holds a copy of the Marxist manifesto and is engaged in a political rally. Very similar to her real-life political activism. Above her is another similar-looking woman. This is Frida’s sister Cristina, with whom Rivera had an affair during his marriage to Frida.

Second Level

On the second level of the courtyard patio are 11 additional murals painted by Rivera. These are continuations of the history but highlight particular scenes that Rivera found to be important during the pre-Hispanic era. These murals were not finished, and it’s interesting to see them as works in progress captured in time.

Cárcamo de Dolores

There are several other spots in Mexico City to see if you are following in the footsteps of Diego Rivera. One location to visit that is home to two important spots is the great Bosque de Chapultepec or Chapultepec Park. The park is one of the largest city parks in the Western Hemisphere and spans over 1,600 acres! A dense and populated city needs fresh air, and this park acts as its “lungs,” with trees that replenish oxygen to the Valley of Mexico. The name Chapultepec stems from the Nahuatl word chapoltepēc, which means “at the grasshopper’s hill.” If you find yourself in Chapultepec Park, you can also visit the Cárcamo de Dolores. 

The Cárcamo was built in 1951 under engineers Eduardo Molina Arévalo and Guillermo Torres. The Cárcamo de Dolores (or Sump of Dolores) was a hydraulic structure that housed a giant water tank. From here, the city would control the levels in several other large water reservoirs. But, the space was given an artistic flair by Diego Rivera. 

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Tláloc, the God of Water

Once the new system was implemented, they set about creating this museum in honour of the water god Tláloc. Tláloc is the god of rain, water and earthly fertility. Walking up to the building, you can see the giant tiled fountain with the image of Tláloc lying down, spread over 100 feet wide. He lies with his legs laid splayed, decorated with brightly coloured stones mined from the natural resources of the Mexican landscape. Originally, the area where we now find the fountain was the entry point where the Lerma River water entered the city’s reservoir.

Water has long been both worshipped and yet highly problematic in Mexico City. After the Spanish conquest, they drained the precious life-giving rivers and lakes. Since then, the city has constantly been searching for accessible water. So people are continually making their prayers to Tláloc. In the hopes he can solve what even modern-day engineers still have not.

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Main Building

Inside the main building is where you can find Rivera’s murals, Water, Origin of Life. These murals pay tribute to the workers, engineers and architects who participated in the construction of the original Cárcamo water system. These 200 square meters of murals were meant to be underwater, making them the only underwater mural in the world. Today, the murals’ pools are empty, allowing the public to observe the artworks. Constant aquatic exposure resulted in the slow deterioration of these historical works, so the water was drained and diverted. A pipe organ has been installed to give the room the same atmosphere as it once had. The organ makes noises through the adjacent municipal pipes to make the room sound like a functional waterway.

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Panteón de Dolores

On the other side of the Avenue Bosques in Chapultepec Park is the great Panteón Civil de Dolores. This Pantheon, or cemetery, is the largest cemetery in Mexico. And in my opinion, this cemetery is one of the greatest in the world! Filled with some of the most incredibly elaborate and imaginative tombstones. The cemetery was built in 1897 on Juan Manuel Benfield’s ranch. Benfield founded the cemetery in honour of his wife, who had recently died in Veracruz. She couldn’t be buried in Veracruz as all cemeteries there were for Roman Catholics only, and they were practicing Anglicans. The cemetery grew and grew over the years, becoming home to some of the most illustrious dead of Mexico City. Today, the cemetery has over 700,000 tombs and is considered the most crowded cemetery in Latin America.

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They even have a special section of the cemetery called the ‘Rotonda de las Personas Ilustres‘ (Rotunda of Illustrious Persons). This area honours those who have exalted Mexico’s civic, national and human values. Originally it was named the Rotunda of Illustrious Men. But it was renamed by President Vicente Fox in 2003 as the cemetery also honours many famous women. The first person to be buried here was soldier Pedro Litechipia, who died fighting against the empire of Maximilian in 1876. 

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Diego Rivera’s Tomb

Included among the illustrious dead is Diego Rivera. Interestingly enough, Rivera had requested that he not be buried at all. Instead, he wanted to be cremated and his ashed comingled with those of his beloved Frida Kahlo. Frida’s urn can be found inside her beloved Casa Azul. Sadly, upon his death, his family overruled his decision and had this tomb designed to house his body. The vault was designed with pre-Hispanic patterns and symbols swirling around the tombstone. Emerging from the stone are the bright white marble arms and the death mask of Diego Rivera himself. As if the artist is merely asleep and is rising from the grave. Haunting and yet beautiful all at once.

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The Flower Vendor (Girl with Lilies)

On either side of the tomb are bouquets of white calla lilies carved in marble. So they may bloom for eternity. Rivera’s famous The Flower Vendor (Girl with Lilies) is one of Rivera’s most famous artworks. Although the lily is associated with funerals and death to Rivera, it symbolizes indigenous culture. It also references Mexico’s abundant flora and even a hint of sensuality, as the flower resembles a certain part of the female anatomy. Flower sellers also represent the poor working class. Who sold the beauty of the Mexican landscape to the wealthy upper class, which consumed it. For this reason, focusing on the flowers on his grave is even more important to his legacy.

Tomb Mosaic

Above the tomb, on a large stone marker, is a beautiful mosaic. It features the image of an older indigenous woman surrounded by lit candles. The scene appears dark as if she is here at night. She kneels on the ground, planting seeds with a woven basket in front of her. A symbol of how Rivera planted seeds in the minds and eyes of the Mexican people. Inspiring them for ages to come. On the opposite side of the mosaic is a burst of Rivera set into the stone. Below it is a large inscription dedicated to the life and impact of the great artist.

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Coyoacan and San Angel

You can visit many other places that are significant to Diego Rivera, located outside the city centre. Luckily, Uber makes seeing many of these destinations very straightforward. Two neighbouring areas worth visiting are the colourful suburb of Coyoacan and the quiet artistic streets of San Ángel.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo

The rural hamlet, filled with cobblestone streets and bougainvillea-covered colonial homes of San Angel, was where Diego Rivera called home in his old age. While the Casa Azul was Frida’s palace, the Casa Estudio was Diego Rivera’s oasis. Here, you can learn more about Diego, the man, not just Diego, the artist. This was Rivera’s dream home. He had it custom designed by architect and friend Juan O’Gorman.

Juan O’Gorman

O’ Gorman studied functionalist construction under the swiss design of Le Corbusier. Gorman was enthusiastic about bringing this modernist style to Mexico City. A city he saw as being a hub for modern thinking and exquisite architecture. Diego and Frida’s studio house would be the first construction using functionalist architecture in Latin America. Functionalism was a style defined by buildings that should only express their use or function. They removed excess decoration and prized minimalism.

For Diego and Frida, this functionalist ideal represented their need for two separate studios. Functionally, they could not work together. Frida and Diego’s relationship was plagued with intensity, both good and bad. But when it was bad, it was very, very bad. They found the need to have two different spaces to work to focus on their craft without quarrelling with one another all day. And yet, the two buildings are connected by a large bridge on the top. It is a symbol of their love. That at the end of the day, they still found a way to come together and connect. 

The Architecture of the House/Studio

The two buildings were designed almost as polar opposites. Diego’s studio building is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. On the other hand, Frida’s studio is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her Casa Azul. Both studies feature almost floor-to-ceiling windows, giving the interior space an indoor/outdoor feeling. The houses are separated from the street by a perimeter fence. But instead of being made from wood or wrought iron, the fence is made of rows of tall cacti along the roadside. Giving it the most iconic appearance.

The couple lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul. Leaving Diego to live full-time, alone in the studio house. After their divorce, the couple actually got back together only 9-months later. But even after this reconciliation, Frida and Diego kept the studio house. Diego would continue to live there full-time until his death on November 24, 1957. Rivera died in his studio, and his body remained there as friends and family sat vigil inside to mourn the loss. After this, his body was moved to the Palacio de Bellas Artes for his state funeral. After his death, his daughter inherited the house. But she gifted it to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes to be enjoyed by the public for years to come as a museum.

Diego’s Studio

Diego’s studio is filled with natural energy. The floor-to-ceiling windows allow sunshine to shine through and ignite the space. The studio museum still contains brushes and pigments, which Rivera used to make his murals. He is sitting on his easel like he is about to walk back into the room mid-painting. Dotting the walls are items from Rivera’s pre-hispanic arts and crafts collections. Books lined the shelves, which served as artistic inspirations and portraits of Diego’s many friends and fellow artists. It really felt like a space that was intimate and highly personal.

But filling the majority of the studio are these huge paper-mâché figures. These are called “Judases” and are life-sized papier-mâché dolls popular in Mexican folk art. These are usually made to be burnt as a part of the celebrations on the day before Easter. The figures are made in the image of Judas the Traitor or other unfavourable people. This could be anything from images of devils and demons or even politicians, criminals and disliked shopkeepers. They are then stuffed with fireworks and blown up on the street. Much to the enjoyment of the onlookers. But Rivera didn’t blow them up. Instead, he kept them as souvenirs of the local artisans. Although the simple craftsmen who made them might not see them as high art, Diego saw these as treasures to keep forever.

Plaza San Jacinto

Just a 5-minute drive from the museum/studio, make a stop in the Plaza San Jacinto. This beautiful park is a hub of activity on Saturday mornings. On the weekends, artisans of the San Angel neighbourhood descend on the park to display and sell their creations. Small groups of artists often sell throughout the week, but Saturdays are the most popular day. You’re guaranteed to find the marketplace bustling on those days.

Make your way to the plaza’s centre and look across from the elegant central fountain. There, you will see a bronze easel with the burst of Diego Rivera emblazoned into the cartouche. As Rivera was a resident of the San Angel for many years, local artists inspired by Rivera wanted to commemorate him for generations to come. There is something wonderful about Rivera’s face looking over at the artists in the square selling their works. Continuing his passion for supporting Mexican artists, even from the great beyond.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Now let us head into the vibrant neighbourhood of Coyoacan. Our first stop is at the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This building is now a free cultural centre to enter and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on an Izotitlán farm, a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow wild all over the property.

Just inside the entrance to the Casa is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can sit alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. The house has existed here since 1780, occupied by various families. It’s no stretch to imagine that the previous owners would have welcomed the famous couple into their garden for a visit or a dinner party from time to time.

Casa Azul

La Casa Azul, or “the blue house,” located on Londres Street in Coyoacán, once belonged to Frida’s father, Guillermo Kahlo. It was here where she was born. She grew up inside these walls. It was where she suffered from illness but flourished as an artist. Eventually, Frida bought the house from her parents and lived with Diego throughout their marriage. They even got divorced and remarried, all within these blue walls. And ultimately, it was the place where she would pass away. It was her sanctuary but also her cage. She spent more years inside these walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at Frida and Diego’s private world. The house has sketches by both artists and pictures of the two as a couple. But the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art. They collected pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more which are still on display. Walking inside their home, you feel a deep connection with Frida and Diego. To learn more about Casa Azul, take my self-guided tour!

Frida Kahlo Park

Frida and Diego loved the outdoors. Diego often painted outside. The outdoors were an important part of their artistic life. In the centre of Coyoacan, you can make your way to Frida Kahlo Park. In the middle of the park, you’ll find two large bronze sculptures of Frida and Diego. Frida is dressed in her classic Tehuana outfit, gazing over at Diego. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned into geometric shapes. Slightly resembling Aztec pyramids popping out in the background.

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Museo Anahuacalli

If you are travelling to Xochimilco, you should stop by the Museo Anahuacalli. Your ticket into the Casa Azul also covers your entry into this museum. The Museo Anahuacalli was another one of Diego Rivera’s homes. Diego and Frida were fierce nationalists who loved their home country and wanted to preserve its history. Diego and Frida dreamed of opening their own museum dedicated to these objects. Sadly, in their lifetime, this dream never came to fruition. But after Diego’s death, his daughter took up the project and created the Museo Anahuacalli. Architect Juan O’Gorman, who designed their studio, also designed this house.

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The house’s exterior was made using black volcanic stone from an old Mexico volcano. The texture is something truly unique. There are over 50,000 pre-Hispanic pieces inside the museum. Some of these Diego would collect while he and Frida would travel to ancient Aztec pyramids outside of Mexico City. Each one of them was a piece of Mexico’s heritage, a heritage that inspired the historical influences of Rivera’s artwork.

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Museo Dolores Olmedo

Also, near Xochimilco, stop at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Museum. The museum is located inside the grounds of an old 16th-century residence. In 1962, Dolores Olmedo bought the house. Dolores was a fierce collector of art as well as a lover of Mexican culture. It is no surprise to learn then that she was old friends with Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. She was also one of their most prolific collectors, and her gallery remains the largest private collection of their works. In 1994, her collection was transformed into the museum we now find today. Luckily, Dolores lived until 2002, so she could see this fantastic house converted into an art gallery for the public to enjoy.

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Olmedo & Rivera

Olmedo met Rivera when she was only 17 years old on a trip to Mexico City with her mother. They met while Rivera was working on his murals inside the Ministry of Education building. Inside the museum, you can see one of the portraits that Rivera painted of her. He made it in 1955 after their first meeting. As their friendship continued, Rivera continued to paint Olmedo and her children. They were so close, in fact, that Olmedo invited Rivera to spend time with her family in her home in Acapulco. Here, the painter made over 50 different paintings of sunsets from Olmedo’s front porch. Several of these paintings can be viewed inside the museum.

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Today you can explore gardens filled with exotic Mexican plants, magical peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles. Xoloitzcuintles are a rare dog breed that was once only thought it exists in mythical stories of the afterlife. But the breed is actually an ancient hairless Aztec dog. The museum also features a permanent exhibition of works by Russian-Mexican artist Angelina Beloff, Diego Rivera’s first wife.

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This brings us to the end of the Mexico City tour, walking in Diego Rivera’s footsteps. I hope you enjoyed your time with us and learned something new about the city along the way! Let me know in the comments what your favourite stop along the tour was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Insider’s Guide to a Diego Rivera’s Life & Art in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

But while the pandemic might be raging outside my doors, lucky for us, the wonders of modern technology allow us to travel virtually. Even while cooped up at home! So if you’re looking for something fun to do, perhaps this virtual weekend tour of Mexico City is just what you need. This virtual tour is a fun way to bring a little bit of wanderlust back into your life and break your pandemic routine.

Table Of Contents

1. Saturday – Start with a Café de Olla
2. Visit the Golden Metropolitan Cathedral
3. Find your Inner Archeologist in Templo Mayor
4. Discover Historic Treasures inside the National Museum of Anthropology
5. Find Art Deco Murals inside the Palacio de Bellas Artes
6. Discover Mexico's Fold Art Heritage at the Museo de Arte Popular
7. Hike to the Chapultepec Castle
8. Take a Mexican Cooking Class
9. Sunday: Start off in Coyoacan's Casa Azul
10. Take a Virtual Walking Tour of Coyoacan
11. Experience the Wonders of Xochimilco
12. Peek into the Life of Frida & Diego inside the Museo Dolores Olmedo
13. Learn how to Make Mole
14. Watch a Lucha Libre Match!

Saturday – Start with a Café de Olla

One of my favourite parts of the day when visiting any city is early in the morning. This might seem odd to some people, as their idea of a vacation is getting to sleep in. But I find the morning to be the best time of day to see a new city. I love watching the locals walking to work, taking their dogs out to the park and admiring the sunlight as it rises to wake the city. And in every city I’ve visited, everyone starts the day off with a cup of coffee.

In Mexico City, I had some of the best cups of coffee of my life! One of the traditional forms of coffee in Mexico is called ‘Café de olla‘. Café de olla is easy to prepare at home yourself and will make you feel like you’re somewhere new! Café de olla is traditionally made in an earthen clay pot, and its predominant flavour is made from boiling cinnamon sticks. This gives the coffee the most amazing spiced flavour.

Café de Olla Recipe

The video below is my favourite recipe guide as it’s hosted by this adorable Abuela (Spanish for “grandmother”). She shares with us her time hnoured recipe for her Café de Olla. The only ingredient you might not find in your local grocery store is the ‘piloncillo‘. A piloncillo or panela is a cone of unrefined cane sugar. This boils away in the water and sweetens the coffee as it dissolves. If you don’t like sweet coffee, you can omit this altogether or just add white sugar to taste.

Visit the Golden Metropolitan Cathedral

Now that you’ve had your caffeine, let’s continue our peaceful start to the day. Next stop: the Metropolitan Cathedral, located in the heart of the Zocalo. The Metropolitan Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary into Heaven is probably the longest title of a church I’ve ever seen. The church is the official seat of the Catholic Archdiocese of Mexico. While being such a holy place for Christians is enough to make this building sacred, it is also located right beside one of the most outstanding former Aztec precincts. The area is a powerful connecting space between both the new and old world. You can sit back and enjoy a 4K virtual tour of the building in the video below. Admire the fantastic gilding throughout the church and the stunning Saint chapels that flank either side of the nave.

CyArk

One of the most remarkable ways you can get up close to the details inside the church is through the work of CyArk. CyArk is a non-profit organization that aims to digitally record, archive and share the world’s most significant cultural heritage sites. In 2018 they set out to document the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral. Since the structure is at such high risk due to earthquake damage, capturing it as it is now will help future restorers should the worst happen.

Altar of the Kings

As of 2021, CyArk has captured in 3D the entirety of the monumental ‘Altar of the Kings‘. This altar measures 45.1 ft wide, 82 ft tall and 25 ft deep! The altar is almost entirely covered in gold gilding and features hundreds of painted figures. Due to its enormous size and amount of gold used, it is also called the “golden cave“. With the CyArk technology, you can zoom right into the different pieces of the atar and see the smallest details you can’t see from the floor below.

You can also explore the exterior of the church. Zooming all around it, even peeking onto the roof. You can explore areas of the building unable to be seen by the public on the ground. I had never even noticed until now that the central dome’s onion roof has blue ceramic tiles lining the ribs! Their website also offers a detailed exhibition into the creations of this digital masterpiece.

Find your Inner Archeologist in Templo Mayor

Located right beside the Cathedral are the ancient ruins of the Templo Mayor. The Templo Mayor (which is Spanish for the “Greater Temple”) was the Aztec people’s main place of worship[ in their capital city of Tenochtitlan. Tenochtitlan was founded around 1325 on an island in what was then Lake Texcoco. The Aztec empire flourished here until the 15th century until the Spanish invaded and changed the course of Mexican history forever. The temple constructed here was called the Huēyi Teōcalli. It was dedicated to both the war god Huitzilopochtli, and the god of rain and agriculture, Tlaloc. Construction of the temple is thought to have begun in 1325 but saw significant reconstruction over the years. The Spanish destroyed the temple in 1521, but luckily we still have these remains to study the great empire.

History of the Museum

When the modern metropolis of Mexico City began to be constructed, city planners had no idea what was beneath the earth’s surface. In 1978 archeologist Eduardo Matos Moctezuma discovered that beneath 13 buildings in this area there were the ruins of the old empire. Excavating the site meant that all these 13 structures had to be demolished. Luckily, the city saw more value in recovering lost treasures of the past than preserved buildings from colonization.

More than 7,000 objects were discovered here and are on display in the museum. Skeletons of turtles, frogs and crocodiles were found as this area was once a rich waterway. There were also mixtec figurines, ceramic urns from Veracruz, masks from Guerrero state, copper rattles, and decorated skulls and knives of obsidian that were uncovered. So many of these objects came from far away, revealing that this city was a great place to journey to.

Street View

The museum opened to the public in 1980 so that everyone could view these fantastic pieces of Mesoamerican history. To view the site for yourself, you can explore it is via google street view in 360. You can look up and down on the exterior and see the details of these centuries-old buildings.

To find out more about the museum and the old temple, you can watch this video below. There are English subtitles to follow along with if you don’t speak Spanish. The video is well worth listening to as it gives you an excellent primer on the history of the site.

Discover Historic Treasures inside the National Museum of Anthropology

To learn even more about Mexico’s ancient history, head over to the virtual National Museum of Anthropology. This museum is the most visited museum in Mexico City. That is saying a lot since Mexico City is home to the world’s 2nd most extensive collection of museums! The National Museum of Anthropology’s goal is to research, conserve, exhibit and disseminate the most important archaeological and ethnographic collections from the country.

The online gallery is broken up into categories based on the materials the objects are made of. You can view pieces made of stone, clay, rock and more. When you click on an object, you will be able to study it in detail by zooming in and out. They scanned the items at such high-res you can get right into the cracks! Along with the images of the item are excellent write-ups on the pieces that will tell you all about where it was discovered, the meaning behind it and even information about the craftsmen who made it.

Find Art Deco Murals inside the Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Palacio de Bellas Artes or Palace of Fine Arts is an Art Nouveau masterpiece. It stands as the central hub for music, dance, theatre, opera and literature in Mexico, dubbing it with the nickname “Cathedral of Art“. Construction on the Palacio began in 1904 but was halted in 1913 due to many different complications. The structure wasn’t finished until 1934.

While the exterior is a beautiful blend of Art Nouveau and Neoclassical architecture, the interior is decorated with Art Deco elements. One of the things which makes the building so famous is the interior murals painted by Diego Rivera. To explore the Palacio de Bellas Artes, you can take a virtual tour. On the official website, you’ll be able to see the incredible murals, tour the sprawling art deco lobby, explore the theatre and even see underneath the stage! Something which not just any ol’ visitor would be able to see. My favourite part of the building is the stunning stained-glass dome inside atop the theatre.

Discover Mexico’s Fold Art Heritage at the Museo de Arte Popular

Across the street from the Palacio de Bellas Artes, you can find the Museo de Arte Popular. This museum takes visitors back several centuries and studies the history of traditional folk art of Mexico’s people. It aims to display the diversity of cultures and how the interaction between nature, man and society create the rich fabric of Mexican art and artistry.

Two online exhibitions that are available virtually study traditional Mexican textiles and the Festival of Day of the Dead. The show on clothing is such an interesting investigation into the influence of Mexico’s flora and fauna in apparel. You can see how different parts of the country have various iconic patterns dedicated to their local flowers.

In the exhibition ‘The Ofrenda of Day of the Dead‘, the museum aims to teach the viewer all about the Mexican ‘Ofrenda‘. An ‘ofrenda‘ is an altar that families prepare for the relatives who have passed. This is a traditional part of the Day of the Dead celebrations. It is meant to guide the spirits of their dead relatives’ home during the festival. The altar is filled with items that the person who past loved in their life. The altar is also covered with meaningful items such as sugar skulls, marigolds and more. The exhibition will tell you all about the significance of the objects placed on the altar.

Hike to the Chapultepec Castle

Hidden away atop a hill above downtown Mexico City is the great Chapultepec Castle. I was amazed by visiting the castle that such a thing existed in Mexico City’s modern metropolis. Chapultepec Castle’s name comes from the Nahuatl word” chapoltepēc,” that means “at the grasshopper’s hill.” The hillside was, for hundreds of years, a sacred place for the Aztecs. In the 18th century, before the palace was built, the hillside was home to a gunpowder warehouse and military academy. Then in 1864, it became the official residence of Emperor Maximilian I and his consort Empress Carlota.

Carlota went to excellent care and expensive to remodel the palace into a luxurious residence. It was used as an official residence of the President of Mexico from 1883 until 1939. After which it was turned into a museum. My blog about my visit to the castle is a highly detailed summary of all the wonders you’ll find there. YouVisit also has a beautiful virtual tour you can take to view parts of the palace in 360 degrees!

Take a Mexican Cooking Class

The best way to finish off your day is to create a delicious traditional Mexican meal. One of the best things about visiting Mexico City is the food! And while you might not be able to be there yourself, food is always something you can attempt to make at home. One of the very best online class services is the ever-popular MasterClass. Gabriela Cámara, A “star of modern Mexican cuisine,” brings her local, sustainable twist to time-honoured traditions. In this class, you will learn how to make everything you need for a complete Mexican dinner. You’ll make fresh tortillas, succulent tacos al pastor, salsas (of course), and my favourite aguachile de camarón (raw shrimp in lime and chile). You can even learn how to make huevos rancheros to eat for breakfast the next day!

Sunday: Start off in Coyoacan’s Casa Azul

Next up, it’s time to head over to the suburb of Coyoacan, to see where the great artists Frida Kahlo lived. Frida not only grew up in Coyoacan, but she also purchased her childhood home and lived out the rest of her days there too. She called the house “La Casa Azul”. The name comes from the bright Azul (Spanish for blue) colour that the house’s exterior is painted with. In her childhood journal, she wrote that the colour blue represented “electricity and love.” Those two words seem to describe Frida perfectly. Despite all the suffering, she went through her art and her life is filled with such passion and power.

Truly one of my favourite places I have ever visited is the Casa Azul, in Mexico City. This gorgeous blue house, in the cozy neighbourhood of Coyoacan, is where Frida Kahlo lived as a child. It is also where she spent the better part of the end of her life. In Mexican culture, it is good luck to be born and die and in the same place. The Casa Azul is teeming with memories, influences, and the real spirit, Frida Kahlo. There is genuinely no better place to give you a more intimate exploration into her life than inside the Casa Azul.

During the summer of 2020, the Casa Azul Museum took it upon themselves to capture the Casa Azul in 360 degrees. With this new technology visitors from all over the world could explore the house room by room from their own home! You can explore the entirety of the house, peeking into her kitchen, bedroom, studio and her magical garden. The virtual tour doesn’t come with any detailed information, so you can use our self-guided tour. Follow along for a complete understanding of the significance of every object, painting and plant inside the house. If you’re interested in a full virtual tour of Frida Kahlo, you can check out my blog post for more on the great artist.

Take a Virtual Walking Tour of Coyoacan

One of the most important places to study Frida Kahlo is in her home town neighbourhood of Coyoacán. Outside the heart of Mexico City, this little village was where Frida was born, grew up, lived, and eventually died. These streets were her playground, her studio and her home. It’s here you can get a glimpse into the life of the great artist. You can read more about Coyoacan here or take a virtual tour online.

Experience the Wonders of Xochimilco

A place that was sacred to Frida was Xochimilco. Xochimilco and the surrounding Aztec waterways were where Frida and her friends would go to escape the city. A famous photo of Frida on a boat along the Xochimilco canals shows her dipping her hand into the water. She felt at home here, a place to run away from her dramatic marriage, her pain and even perhaps, herself.

Today it’s a vibrant neighbourhood where you can experience the same journey Frida would have taken. There are so many videos online which take you through these wonderfully colourful canals. With a Mezcal in hand at home, you’ll feel like you’re there!

Peek into the Life of Frida & Diego inside the Museo Dolores Olmedo

Located in Xochimilco, the Museo Dolores Olmedo is situated in an old stone house dating back to the 16th century. Inside it contains the world’s largest collections of works by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The online exhibition tells the story of the life and art of Frida Khalo. Using personal effects, photographs and live street views of where she lived you feel like you are stepping into her shoes. And of course, you’ll also see a myriad of her earliest paintings and sketches.

Learn how to Make Mole

For our second recipe I wanted to provide an alternative to the subscription service which MasterClass requires. There are TONS of free recipes and tutorials online and the best are on Youtube. Rick Martinez with Food52 (one of my favourite recipe websites) takes us through how to make one of his favourite recipes, Mole. Mole is such an essential part of Mexican cusine. But the recipe can feel like a daunting one to take on. But with Rick’s charming personality and easy-to-follow instructions, he makes the entire experience nothing but fun!

Watch a Lucha Libre Match!

Lucha Libre is one of the most vibrant and exciting sports to watch in Mexico City! It had even been deemed a part of the “intangible cultural heritage” of Mexico City as of 2016. Lucha Libre means “freestyle wrestling,” and these stupendous matches are the perfect way to end off your virtual tour of Mexico City. Over the years, Lucha Libre wrestling has developed a unique style separating it from any form of American wrestling, either professional or Olympic.

In Mexico, wrestlers dress in fantastical outfits and always wear the iconic colourful “lucha” mask. They must wear their mask, hiding their true identity. Only when they lose a match are they unmasked as a sign of disgrace. We went to see a show when we were in Mexico City, and it was one of the most exciting nights of my life! To get an idea of what it is like to experience it for yourself, I would recommend watching the video below.

The video details the entire experience. From entering the great stadium, to the food and, of course, the amazing acrobatics of Lucha wrestling. If you’re interested in just watching other matches, you can check out this video and more online.

This brings us to the end of our lovely virtual weekend in Mexico City. Another part of our series on Virtual Travel. I hope you enjoyed being able to see all these amazing places inside my favourite place in the world! Let me know in the comments what you’re favourite place we saw was and what future destinations you’d like to visit virtually next!

Happy (Virtual) Travels, Adventurers!

The post How to Have an Amazing Virtual Weekend in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Since we can’t travel right now due to covid restrictions, I wanted to find new ways to ignite that wanderlust. Even from the comfort and safety of our home! So what better way to kick this series off than with my favourite artist: Frida Kahlo. Not only are these virtual tours a great way to entertain yourself at home, but they are also an excellent resource for future trips.

Explore Casa Azul

Truly one of my favourite places I have ever visited is the Casa Azul, in Mexico City. This gorgeous blue house, in the cozy neighbourhood of Coyoacan, is where Frida Kahlo lived as a child. It is also where she spent the better part of the end of her life. In Mexican culture, it is good luck to be born and die and in the same place. The Casa Azul is absolutely teeming with memories, influences, and the real spirit, which was Frida Kahlo. There is genuinely no better place to give you a more intimate exploration into your life than inside the Casa Azul.

During the summer of 2020, the Casa Azul Museum took it upon themselves to capture the Casa Azul in 360 degrees. With this new technology visitors from all over the world could explore the house room by room from their own home!

You can explore the entirety of the house, peeking into her kitchen, bedroom, studio and her absolutely magical garden. The virtual tour doesn’t come with any detailed information, so you can use our self-guided tour and follow along for a complete understanding of the significance of every object, painting and plant inside.

Virtual Walking Tour of Coyoacan

One of the most important places to study Frida Kahlo is in her home town neighbourhood of Coyoacán. Outside the heart of Mexico City, this little village was where Frida was born, grew up, lived, and eventually died. These streets were her playground, her studio and her home. It’s here you can get a glimpse into the life of the great artist. You can read more about Coyoacan here or take a virtual tour online.

Stream ‘Frida’

If you have never seen the 2002 biographical drama ‘Frida‘, starring Salma Hayek and directed by Julie Taymor, I would HIGHLY recommend giving it a watch! While the movie takes some liberties with her life, Julie Taymor went to great lengths to make the film look like it was plucked right out of the mind of Kahlo. Scenes contain such visually evocative sets and effects that they seem more like a moving painting than a film. Since the majority of her life was spent in Mexico, this movie takes you on a journey to the street of Mexico in the 1920s and 30s.

Watch the PBS Documentary

Suppose you are more interested in a documentary about Kahlo rather than a movie? In that case, you can watch this PBS special ‘The life and times of Frida Kahlo‘. While the special is a bit old, the fantastic personal photos they include are an intimate peek into her life and the information is unparalleled.

Explore the Appearances Can Be Deceiving Exhibit

The Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco hosted an exhibition called ‘Frida Kahlo: Appearances Can Be Deceiving‘ in 2020. When the lockdown made it impossible for visitors to see it, they created a virtual tour of the exhibition. This allowed visitors from all over to the world to view the exhibition online.

In 2004, inside the Casa Azul, curators discovered a never before seen collection of Frida’s personal effects. Hidden inside a locked trunk were treasured items from her wardrobe, prosthetics, handmade jewellery, accessories, and also Frida’s personal photographs. The online video was directed by Benjamin Michel, an award-winning filmmaker specializing in cinematography. Because such care was taken in filming the exhibit, you really get an incredible experience of what it would be like to view it yourself.

Since many items found in the trunk were pieces of clothing, the close-up filming lets you see the smallest details and textures of the objects. Frida used clothing and accessories to create her image, which was also her armour. Her image is one of the most iconic things people associate with Frida. Even those who might not know what a painting of Frida’s might look like can easily describe her quintessential appearance.

Dive into the Faces of Frida

Google’s Arts and Culture department has gone to great lengths to create an online resource for art lovers. Although they have been working on these exhibits prior to lockdown, they amped up their curations to allow art lovers to get their gallery fix! Their collection of Frida Kahlo artwork, ephemera, personal objects and more is unmatched! Over 25 different museums collaborated to create this online museum collection. Their website allows the viewer to explore the myths and legends about Frida’s life and zoom in to every inch of her incredible works of art.

One of the exhibits collects both found photographs, sketches and works of art to tell her life’s story. One of my favourite online exhibitions explores Frida’s complicated and painful yet also beautiful, relationship with her body. Frida suffered from polio as a young girl. She then experienced a life-altering bus accident later in her teens, which left her permanently disabled. And yet all this fueled her love of painting as a means to express herself from the confines of a bed. Her pain and suffering throughout her life are one of the central themes of her artwork. Understanding the context of these works is a beautiful way to learn more about art and the artist.

If you have ever been interested in an in-depth guide to her thematic paintings, then check out the stories featured in the online gallery. These do a deep dive into the significance of the smallest aspects of her works of art. Her powerful and somewhat disturbing painting entitled ‘Henry Ford Hospital‘ has long been one of my favourites, and studying every last piece of imagery included gave me some beautiful insights I had never considered before!

Read a Book

Suppose you are interested in learning more about the artist but don’t want to commit to reading a lengthy biography. In that case, I cannot recommend picking up the book ‘Frida Kahlo: The Story of Her Life‘ by Vanna Vinci more! This gorgeously illustrated novel blends facts and history with dreamlike and surreal sequences. Vinci creates Frida’s dramatic, romantic, tragic and painful journey to life on the page unlike ever before. I cried reading this book and was amazed at how powerful it was. The illustrations inside are so evocative you’ll want to read it over and over again. The Mexican imagery makes you feel transported and is an excellent resource for your wanderlust!

Make Frida’s Food

Another great way to allow yourself to feel like you’re somewhere else other than inside your home is through food. If you’re like me, one of your favourite parts of travelling is getting to try traditional cultural cuisine. Frida Kahlo LOVED to cook. She portrayed food consistently throughout her paintings. Her friends and family love to talk about how she adored holding raucous dinner parties inside the Casa Azul. We actually have a lot of knowledge about the kinds of foods Frida cooked. In the book ‘Frida’s Fiestas‘, her stepdaughter created a storylike cookbook. It was made from her memories as well as personal accounts from friends and mementos from Frida’s scrapbooks. This book will take you on a journey through Mexican cuisine and is bound to ignite your inner chef!

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The Art Assignment by PBS Digital Studios has a beautiful video online all about Frida’s cooking. It even takes you through making some of her iconic recipes and explains why food was so important to Frida.

Experience the Wonders of Xochimilco

A place that was sacred to Frida was Xochimilco. Xochimilco and the surrounding Aztec waterways were where Frida and her friends would go to escape the city. A famous photo of Frida on a boat along the Xochimilco canals shows her dipping her hand into the water. She felt at home here, a place to run away from her dramatic marriage, her pain and even perhaps, herself.

Today it’s a vibrant neighbourhood where you can experience the same journey Frida would have taken. There are so many videos online which take you through these wonderfully colourful canals. With a Mezcal in hand at home, you’ll feel like you’re really there!

I hope all these resources gave you a great start to exploring the world of Frida Kahlo from the comfort of your own home. And even if we can’t get out there and travel right now, we can still ignite the spirit of adventure.

Happy At-Home-Travels, Adventurers

The post 9 Amazing At Home Frida Kahlo Travel Experiences first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

You’ll visit not only her famous residence, Casa Azul, but also explore a multitude of other significant places. These spots were essential in the formation of her identity and connection to her Mexican heritage. If this is your first time visiting Mexico City, this tour is an excellent method of discovery. Many of her famous locations are located in the heart of neighbourhoods with a variety of other popular attractions.

Tour Itinerary

This tour is divided up into four different sections, each one focusing on a particular area of Mexico City. While it might not be the most chronological journey, it allows you to explore different neighbourhoods around Mexico city cohesively. While a chronological life tour would be better in terms of following her journey, it requires bouncing all over the city. Especially for those who are on a tight schedule, that’s not the best use of your time.

The three different neighbourhoods are the Coyoacán, Historic City Centre, and Xochimilco’t. You can easily add these spots to your existing itinerary. I would advise to only tackle one neighbourhood at a time. Don’t try to fit it all in one go. The last section is a list of museums. These museums will help you get a deeper understanding of Mexican culture, insights about Frida, and art in Mexico. Since these places were not locations Frida really visited they are not part of the essential tour. Although they do add a lot of contextual information if you’re interested in that kind of thing.

Below is a map of the entire walking tour. I have broken up the neighbourhoods into separate maps for easy-to-follow directions.

Frida Kahlo in Coyoacan

1. Tour Itinerary
2. Frida Kahlo Museum
3. Coyoacan Market
4. The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal
5. Cantina La Guadalupana
6. Parroquia San Juan Bautista
7. Frida Kahlo Park
8. La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura
9. Jardín Centenario
10. Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
11. Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera's House-Studio
12. Former College of San Ildefonso
13. Biblioteca Pública 
14. Secretaría De Educación Pública
15. Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
16. The Palacio Nacional
17. Avenue 5 de Mayo
18. Garibaldi Square
19. Palacio de Bellas Artes
20. Alameda Central
21. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
22. La Ciudadela
23. Xochimilco Canals
24. Museo Dolores Olmedo
25. Templo Mayor Museum
26. Museum of Modern Art
27. Museo Nacional de Antropología
28. Mexican Art Gallery | GAM
29. Museo Franz Mayer
30. Museo Anahuacalli

Frida Kahlo Museum

La Casa Azul or “the blue house“, located on Londres Street in Coyoacán once belonged to Frida’s father, Guillermo Kahlo. It was here where she was born. She grew up inside these walls. It was the place where she suffered from illness but also flourished as an artist. Eventually, Frida bought the house from her parents and lived with her husband, Diego. They got divorced and remarried all within these blue walls. And ultimately, it was the place where she would pass away. It was her sanctuary but also her cage. She spent more years inside these walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art. They collected pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more which is still on display. You feel a deep connection with Frida by literally walking in her footsteps. You get to see her inner sanctum and looking at the precious treasures she collected, which represented her passions, her wishes and her dreams. To learn more about the Casa Azul take my self guided tour!

Coyoacan Market

South of Frida’s house is the Coyoacán Market. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. Both Frida and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul. Frida loved to cook, and there are countless recipe books out there that details her favourite recipes. At one time, she was quoted as saying,

“We could not have a child, and I cried inconsolably, but I distracted myself by cooking, dusting the house, sometimes by painting…”

Frida’s Shopping List

Frida would come to these brightly coloured corners of the marketplace to shop for her favourite ingredients, chat with her local shopkeepers and wander around to get inspired for her next creation. This marketplace feels a little more laid back and less modern than some of the ones in the inner city. Exploring it feels like more of an authentic experience to the one Frida would have had herself. Make sure you ask about the mole paste they sell here. Mole was one of Frida’s favourite things to cook and eat, and there are countless varieties here you can buy and taste! See which one if your favourite and bring some of the powdered version home with you to make in your own kitchen!

The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal

The Casa de Cortes, on the north side, of the Plaza Hidalgo was where the seat of government was held for many years. And it was here that Frida and Diego were married. Frida’s parents were not a fan of Diego…to say the least. Diego had already been married twice, and his reputation as an unfaithful husband wasn’t a big secret around town. He was also 21 years older than 22-year-old Frida. Her parents protested and begged Diego not to marry her, but the love birds could not be swayed. Her parents referred to the union as a “marriage between an elephant and a dove” since Diego was over 300 pounds, and due to her illnesses, Frida was only a petite 98 pounds.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

The two were married on August 21st, 1929. Their marriage in city hall was presided by the mayor of Coyaocan, and their witnesses were a hairdresser and homeopathic doctor. Frida wore only a long skirt and simple blouse with a rebozo (shawl) wrapped around her shoulder. She would often wear these in the same way that female revolutionaries wore them during the 1910 revolution when women used the scarves to smuggle guns past government checkpoints. Diego was dressed in a plain grey suit, accessorized with a Stetson hat and a Colt revolver. After their short ceremony, they retreated to their good friend Tina Modotti’s house where the raucous reception was held.

It was recorded that after the wedding, during their reception, Diego took the colt revolver and shot it off aimlessly in a drunken stupor. Frida was none too pleased at this childish behaviour, and it would be the first signs of trouble in paradise for the couple.

Cantina La Guadalupana

Just down the street from the Casa Municipal, you’ll find Frida’s old watering hole, Cantina La Guadalupana. Although the original cantina is now closed, you can still see the old signage out front marking the spot. The building is much unchanged from the days when you’d catch a glimpse of Frida’s richly coloured skirts in the window. The Cantina La Guadalupana was the couple’s bar of choice for drinking tequila under the dim lights and surrounded by bullfighting decor. Frida was quite the prolific drinker for her small size and other than tequila, she would love to drink pulque. Pulque is made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant, native to Mexico. It was a beverage which the ancients Aztecs invented and drinking it made her feel closer to those old gods.

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Parroquia San Juan Bautista

Across the park, stands the imposing shadow of the baroque church that Frida Kahlo attended while she was growing up, Parroquia San Juan Bautista. It is also called the Iglesia de Coyoacán as the church has become the central place of worship in Coyoacán. It was built between 1520 and 1552 and run by an old Dominican order. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. But surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations.

The interior, however, is covered in baroque gilded decorations, and mindblowing ceiling frescos of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Frida would have come here as a child and prayed with her parents. You can only imagine how such a richly artistic place would have inspired young Frida’s mind.

Frida Kahlo Park

Seeing as the city is the place of her birth, it seems only right that Frida would have a park dedicated after her. Frida loved the outdoor, and although not everyone can afford to go into the Casa Azul’s garden daily, they can wake their way to Frida Kahlo Park to celebrate the great artistic legacy…or at the very least, walk their dog in a lovely setting. In the centre of the park, you’ll find two large, bronze sculptures of Frida and Diego. Frida is dressed in her classic Tehuana outfit, gazing over at Diego. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned into geometric shapes, slightly resembling Aztec pyramids popping out in the background.

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La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura

Located on the east end of Coyoacán, is La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura. Frida began teaching here in 1942. She hoped that its close proximity to her house would mean she could easily commute to and from and continue to educate Mexico City’s artistic youth. She loved her students and teaching, but her leg was bothering her more and more and eventually, she couldn’t leave the house. Luckily, the students loved her as well, and the dedicated pupils would come to the Casa Azul, where Frida could continue to instruct them. She would always inspire her students to look to Mexican culture for inspiration, instead of being influenced by European trends. While Frida might not have taught here for a long time, the school grounds are a beautiful and inspiring place to explore.

Jardín Centenario

The Jardin del Centenario is the central greenspace in Coyoacan. It is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. The gardens were once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

This beautiful garden is also where you’ll find a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below.

Frida in the Park

This delightful park is where a place Frida would frequently come to stroll or celebrate during her life in Coyoacan. It was here where the city would hold parades, festivals and fairs. Diego Rivera’s daughters have written extensively about their time living with Diego and Frida in Coyoacán. They lived with them inside the Casa Azul for two years while they completed college. The Jardín CentenarioIn is featured heavily in their accounts as Frida loved to come there to ride carnival rides and march in parades on any day of festivity and would always bring Diego’s daughters with her. Although Frida could never have children herself, she mothered so many young people along the way, acting as a parental figure any time she got the chance.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

The Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles is a cultural centre, free to enter and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. Just inside the entrance to the Casa is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. The house has existed here since 1780, occupied by a variety of different families. It’s no stretch to imagine that the previous owners would have welcomed the famous couple into their garden for a visit or a dinner party from time to time.

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio

Farther west, just outside of Coyoacán in the neighbouring district of San Angel is Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio. Frida and Diego had this building custom designed by their friend Juan O’Gorman. The studio was intended to be two separate buildings, connected by a bridge. A way of physically showing the differences between these two artists, who despite all odds, still manage to come together. Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. Frida’s studio, on the other hand, is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her home in Coyoacán. Diego’s house features thin windows along the top of the walls. Frida’s features almost floor to ceiling windows, giving the interior space that indoor/outdoor feeling. The house is separated from the street by a perimeter fence which instead of being made from wood or wrought-iron, is made from stacking rows of tall cacti along the roadside.

Studio-House

The couple lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they got divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul, leaving Diego to live full time, alone in the studio-house. Even after getting back together, only 9-months later, Frida and Diego kept the studio to use as more workspace. Today the interior of the studio features a lot of Diego Rivera’s work and decor, especially his collection of papier-mâché figures.

The Frida side of the house is pretty bare since most of her treasures moved over to the Casa Azul, but it is still interesting to view the architectural designs from inside. The best part of her studio to explore is her bathroom. It was in here that she was inspired to paint ‘What the Water Gave Me’ while staring down at her feet in the bathtub in one of her fits of depression. The very tub which is portrayed in the painting can be still seen today inside the studio. Frida also painted such iconic images as ‘The eye of the eye‘ and ‘The deceased Dimas’ while she lived at the studio-house.

Former College of San Ildefonso

We begin this part of the tour at the Former College of San Ildefonso. It seems very fitting to start the journey here since it was a place of so many firsts for Frida. This was where Frida first went to college in 1922. There she met some of her best friends, her first boyfriend and, most importantly, first met the love of her life; Diego Rivera. Frida’s father had the utmost confidence in his daughter.

Even after she had spent a good deal of her adolescence homeschooled, due to her polio, he still thought she was a genius. Her father decided to send her to this former Jesuit college, at much expense to the family. She was one of only 35 girls, out of 2000 students who went to the school. But she had always gotten along with boys almost more than she did with girls, so she flourished there. Frida would even be seen wearing men’s clothes to the college from time to time and embraced her more masculine side.

The Creation

At the same time, Frida was at school here, Diego Rivera has been commissioned to paint an enormous mural on the lecture room walls. The painting, called ‘The Creation‘ was Rivera’s first gigantic mural of this kind. It was commissioned by the Mexican government to educate the masses of people who couldn’t read but wanted to learn about history. The mural covers more than a thousand square feet and portrays mythological and religious motifs.

It was here when painting the mural that Frida first laid eyes on Diego. She would sneak in to watch him paint his nude models anytime she could. Diego, although married to Lupe Marin at the time, would frequently be found by Frida in the midst of making love to one of his models. She took it upon herself to even warn the artists if she saw his wife coming. Frida would mock and tease him as he worked, but he saw her as a charming little pest. She would go on and on about him to her friends, and despite their age difference, and would proclaim that one day, she would be his wife and have a child by him. Although the latter would never come to pass, who knew how right she would be about the rest.

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Biblioteca Pública 

Down the street from her college, we find the Biblioteca Pública where Frida would come to study. She would come here to meet up with her schoolmates the ‘Los Cachuchas‘. It was here they would discuss at length the politics of the day and plan their communist rallies. But the library was not just a place of learning for Frida. The library was also where she would spend hours falling in love with her first boyfriend, Alex Gómez Arias. In addition to Alex, she also met a gorgeous female librarian and had her first affair with a woman amongst these books. This relationship caused quite the scandal in the community but was her first foray into exploring her bisexuality.

Secretaría De Educación Pública

Just to the north of the school, is the spot of another one of Diego Rivera’s masterpieces. There are 235 panels in the Secretaría de Educación Pública featuring Diego’s favourite themes of blue-collar workers, and the glorification of all things Mexican. It was here while painting these murals in 1928 that Frida Kahlo would come to see Rivera once more. After her injury from the bus accident, she needed to find a way of making money for her family and art was always something which had interested her.

But Frida didn’t know if her artwork was skilled enough to become an accomplished artist. So she went to ask the one man she admired above all others and whom she knew would tell her the truth. She marched right up to him, her work under her arms, and asked him for an honest critique. He was flabbergasted at her brash attitude and charmed by her confidence. It looks him some time to recognize her as the little pest from years before, but it was here that perhaps Diego first fell in love with Frida.

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Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral

Frida’s mother was a fiercely religious woman. The Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral was right beside where Frida would walk to school every day and as such a part of her daily life. Even though many of Frida’s paintings contain a wide variety of indigenous imagery, she was raised in a Catholic household. Elements of religious iconography can be seen in her pictures, especially in her studies of ex-votos. This church is a beautiful place to explore and discover different references you might compare to some of Frida’s famous portraits. The church itself was built after the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire.

The Spaniards decided to build their first church on the site of the Templo Mayor of the Aztec in the city of Tenochtitlan. Stones from the destroyed temple of the Aztecs were used to create the church. And although we now look upon the destruction of that ancient temple as something to morn, it is incredible to stare up at this church and see stones stuck throughout from over 1000 years ago. The construction of the Cathedral began in 1573 and took until 1813 to complete! The enormous cathedral is over 350 feet long and 200 feet wide. This makes it Latin America’s largest and oldest temple.

The Palacio Nacional

The Palacio Nacional or National Palace is an enormous building which stretches out across the Zocalo. While some of the Palace is still used for governmental purposes, the rest of the building is open to the public and filled with incredible gardens, murals, fountains and works of art. But the most meaningful Frida related piece in the palace is the mural by Diego Rivera entitled, ‘The History of Mexico’.

The mural features the history of Mexico from pre-Columbian ancient times to the 1930s. Rivera painted the mural between 1929 and 1935. Key events in the mural feature stories like the Spanish conquest, the colonial period, the Independence movement, and the 1910 Revolution. The right side of the mural is a chronological study of the indigenous Aztecs before colonization.

The left side of the painting is less chronological, featuring smaller groups of stories about Mexico’s Independence. Along the bottom of the mural on the left is the portrait of Frida Kahlo, her iconic monobrow making her easily distinguishable from the others. She looks over a young boys shoulder at his book and is seen wearing a necklace with the communist star. In front of her, dressed in a red, is Cristina, Frida’s sister, holding open a copy of the Communist Manifesto. Years later, Diego would have an affair with Cristina, so seeing the two women here together, years before these dramatic events would unfold feels slightly foreboding.

Avenue 5 de Mayo

Walk along Avenue 5 de Mayo, towards our next destination. While the pedestrian street Avenue Francisco Madero is more popular, I always find it’d packed with tourists and people hawking flyers. In addition to this, the stores are all American brands which don’t feel as authentic to Mexico City. Walking along the street, you’ll see that many of these shops are incredibly old.

There are dozens of stores along the way that Frida herself might have popped her head in while she worked in the city. During her adolescence, she would come into the historic centre to work both in her father’s studio or at other artists’ workshops. Frida worked as an artist apprentice in the city, where she had her first affair with a married man. All of this before the age of 18. These streets filled her life with passion, and that can be seen in her escapades.

Garibaldi Square

Plaza Garibaldi is known as the home of mariachi music. Throughout the day, you’ll find mariachi bands playing all over the square. Frida herself loved coming here. She would bring her friends and family here anytime there was a celebration or holiday. She adored dancing to the music and often took part singing songs with the band members.

NOTE: Due to it’s proximity to the dangerous neighbourhood of Tepito, this area should be visited with caution, during the daylight hours. In recent years the city has taken many precautions to help with the safety concerns including increased police presence and the creation of the Bellas Artes-Garibaldi Tourism Corridor. This corridor has improved street lighting as well as the addition of beautiful gardens and sidewalks in the neighbouring streets to help improve the appearance of the area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Palacio de Bellas Artes

Palacio de Bellas Artes and its iconic rainbow stained glass roof are one of the most iconic images of Mexico City. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts events in music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and is therefore aptly named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico”. The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical, but inside you’ll discover a plethora of Art Deco and Art Nouveau stylings. On the 3rd floor is Diego Rivera’s famous ‘El hombre en el cruce de caminos‘ (Man at the Crossroads).

This mural was initially painted for New York City’s Rockefeller Center in 1933 but torn down by Rockefeller when Diego refused to paint out the image of Lenin he had sneakily included. Frida’s life in New York City, following Diego around from commission to commission, was such a significant point in her life. Gazing upon this mural, albeit the second version of it, is still such a powerful connection to the couple.

Frida’s Funeral

When Frida Kahlo died, Diego arranged for her body to be laid in state at the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The government agreed, only if they would make it an entirely non-political event. Diego agreed, but unbeknownst to him, one of her students came to pay their respects and after he did, threw a huge communist flag over her casket. The government threated to have her body removed, but Diego refused to let them. He said if they tried, he would carry her dead body in his arm and sit with her on the steps of the palace. Before she died, the last words she wrote in her diary read:

“I hope the exit is joyful – and I hope never to return”.

Alameda Central

One of Rivera’s most famous paintings is the fifty-foot fresco ‘Sunday walk through Alameda Park‘. The picture is currently in the Diego Rivera mural museum, but visiting Alameda Park is an excellent opportunity to take a walk inside of the painting itself. Alameda Park was Mexico City’s first city park and was built on the grounds of an ancient Aztec marketplace. Frida is painted into the mural, wearing the traditional Tehuana dress. She is holding in her left hand the Yin-Yang symbol, which represents duality. Perhaps this is the duality of life, or maybe Diego painted it as a reference to Frida’s dual personality.

Frida is resting her hand on young Diego’s should, like a mother protecting her young one. You can imagine how many times Diego and Frida would have come to this park together, to paint and to relax. Take some time to walk around and even buy some street food snacks to enjoy under the Jacaranda trees which bloom bright purple in the springtime.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

If you’ve visited the real Alameda Park, then it’s a treat to then see the mural of, ‘Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Central’. Look how closely Diego captured its likeness and the personalities of the people in the park. Despite being called a museum, the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is more of a housing spot for the mural, but the admission is just over a dollar. Originally the mural it was located at Hotel Del Prado. After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the hotel was condemned. Luckily, the mural was saved (in pieces) and moved the museum where it was reassembled.

La Ciudadela

Another iconic destination on the tour of Frida’s Mexico City is to the La Ciudadela marketplace. While this market only opened up in 1968, Frida would have frequented markets like this many times throughout her life in Mexico City. Places like this would have been where she came to purchase folk art, traditional textiles and elaborate, locally-made jewellery. So many of the old Tehuana patterns and dresses which Frida was known for can still be found in marketplaces like this.

Because this market is so large, you’ll have the largest selection and artisans comes from all over the country. Oaxaca is the best place to buy textiles from so if you see signage saying the products are from there you know they’ll be top-notch. If you’ve visited the Casa Azul already, you can even buy replicas of her favourite objects since many of those folk pieces are still made in the same way today. It’s like shopping in a Frida Kahlo-themed store!

Xochimilco Canals

Xochimilco is the Venice of Mexico. In the southern district of Mexico City, you’ll find is over 170 km of waterways which spread out in all different directions. Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico City, the indigenous people had created an incredible network of canals. They used these channels for transportation and to supply water throughout the country. Xochimilco means “Floating Gardens” as it refers to the Aztecs creation of the chinampas. Chinampas are artificial agricultural plots, rich in minerals, that are grown in shallow lake beds. In Xochimilco, they were used to produce thousands of flowers which looked like they were floating in the water. After the Spanish invasion, they dried up many of the canals in the centre of Mexico City to make room for modern roads. But the channels in Xochimilco remained.

Frida adored her Mexican heritage and the colourful culture which Mexico is all about. Today, Xochimilco is the best place to bask in that colour and energy. Along the canals, you can listen to mariachi bands, call over boats with mobile kitchens to serve up fresh tacos or delicious elote. Paddling along the stream are artisans selling flower crowns that resemble the flowers that Frida herself would wear in her hair. Even here, her iconic image is prevalent. To learn more about Xochimilco read my full guide here >> 

Museo Dolores Olmedo

While in Xochimilco, make sure you make a stop at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Museum. The museum is located inside the grounds of an old 16th-century residence. In 1962, Dolores Olmedo bought the house. Dolores was a fierce collector of art as well as a lover of Mexican culture. It is no surprise to learn then that she old became the largest collector of private works of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. In 1994, her collection was transformed into the museum we now find today. Luckily, Dolores lived until 2002, so she was able to see this fantastic house converted into an art gallery for the public.

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Today you can explore gardens filled with exotic Mexican plants, magical peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles. Xoloitzcuintles are a dog breed which was once only thought it exists in mythical stories of the afterlife but is actually an ancient Aztec dog. Frida herself loved these dogs and owned multiple throughout her lifetime. Inside the museum, you can find such famous Frida Kahlo’s as ‘The Broken Column’, ‘Henry Ford Hospital’, ‘Self-portrait with Changuito’, ‘A few Piquetitos‘ and ‘Mi nana Nand Me‘. If there is a particular painting, you wish to see be SURE to check online as so often her pictures are out on loan, being shown around the world.

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Templo Mayor Museum

Mexican culture and history were so essential to Frida’s life. Although Templo Mayor wasn’t discovered until after her death in 1978, Frida would have loved to have seen this relic from the past unveiled. Today, you can visit the museum and see what archaeologists discovered; the remains of the Aztec temple which the Spanish destroyed on their conquest into Mexico. The 10-foot carving of the Mexican goddess Coyolxauhqui and the over 7,000 Mexica artefacts is an entire half days worth of discovery!

Museum of Modern Art

The Museum of Modern Art in Mexico City has a stunning collection of 20th-century Mexican art. The most important being Frida Kahlo’s “The Two Fridas“. This painting is one of the most essential pieces in her oeuvre. It was painted after she divorced Diego and depicts what she saw as her two different personalities. The one on the left is dressed in traditional Tehuana costume, with a broken heart, her blood spilling out on the white of her dress. This Frida’s makeup is done, her lips painted deep red and rouge on her cheeks.

The Frida on the right is dressed in a more modern outfit. She is the independent Frida, whose heart is not broken and who can take on the world without Diego. But the two exist together, shattered and complete, heartbroken and confident. I love this painting as I feel it is so poignant to all of our lives and how we can be all things at once. Strong and weak, shy and loud, brave and scared. You don’t need to commit to one thing alone, we are complex beings, and this painting is a beautiful interpretation of that.

NOTE: Before visiting, be sure to check the website to see if the painting is on loan to another museum. Since this is the only piece of Kahlo’s inside the museum if you’re going expecting to see that and it’s on loan I know how disappointing that might be. So checking in advance is super important!

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Museo Nacional de Antropología

Throughout her life, Frida would often refer to “being the daughter and Mexico“. Her mother was unable to breastfeed young Frida, and so she was breastfed by her indigenous wetnurse. This is an image Frida has painted in a myriad of artworks. Frida always thought that by feeding on the milk of her country, she absorbed the cultural roots of her heritage from the minute she was born. Visiting the National Anthropology Museum is a window into the pre-colonial history of Mexico and those roots Frida so often referred to. The museum is also filled with many indigenous artworks as well as some of Frida and Diego’s student’s artwork they helped inspire.

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Mexican Art Gallery | GAM

Inés Amor founded the original Mexican Art Gallery in Mexico’s City in 1935. This was where Frida’s first art show in Mexico would take place. She exhibited her artworks during the inaugural International Surrealist Exhibition in 1940 with her painting ‘Las Fridas‘ (The Two Fridas, which is now at the Modern Art Gallery of Mexico). Even though there are no longer any of her pictures hanging on the walls, this is still an extraordinary place to visit. The gallery was the first to recognize the talents of Frida Kahlo professionally, and they are doing the same thing with current, contemporary Mexican artists today.

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Museo Franz Mayer

The Franz Mayer Museum is one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in Mexico City. It also houses a wonderful personal art collection from collector Franz Mayer. Here you can find over six centuries of objects he took great care in collecting throughout his lifetime. These collections feature ceramics, furniture, silver, sculpture, paintings and engravings.

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But there is also a room, called the Marguerite Rostan gallery, which highlights traditional Mexican textiles and costumes. The collection contains clothing from 14 different ethnicities such as Amusgos, Triquis, Chinantecos, Mazatecos, Nahuas from various places across Mexico. This acquisition represents and embodies an important contribution to the knowledge of traditional Mexican costumes. Many of these dresses are so similar to the ones Frida wore throughout her life. If you’re interested in learning more about traditional Mexican fashion, this is a great place to visit.

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Museo Anahuacalli

On your way to Xochimilco, you should stop by the Museo Anahuacalli. Your ticket into the Casa Azul actually also covers your entry into this museum as well, so you kinda get a two for one! The Museo Anahuacalli was another one of Diego Rivera’s homes. Diego and Frida were both fierce nationalists who loved their home country and wanted to preserve its history. Diego and Frida dreamed of opening their own museum dedicated to these objects. Sadly, in their lifetime, this dream never came to fruition. But after Diego’s death, his daughter took up the project and created what is now the Museo Anahuacalli. Architect, Juan O’Gorman who designed their studio, also designed this house as well.

The exterior of the house was made using black volcanic stone, taken from an old volcano in Mexico and the texture is something truly unique. There are over 50,000 pre-Hispanic pieces inside the museum. Some of these Diego would collect while he and Frida would travel to ancient Aztec pyramids outside of Mexico City. Each one of them was a piece of Mexico’s heritage, a heritage that inspired the work of Frida Kahlo and I know she would be proud to have helped in the creation of this museum which stands today.

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If you’ve made it all the way through this post, I commend you! There is so much in Mexico City to see in the footsteps of Frida Kahlo. You can easily adapt this tour to your personal interests or locations you’re already planning on visiting. Frida is one of the most exciting artists I’ve ever studied, and I loved writing and researching this tour, so I hope you have as much fun following it as I did in creating it!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Following the Colorful Life of Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

It was her sanctuary but also her cage since for most of her life she was bedridden from injury and sickness. She spent more years inside these blue walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

Self-Guided Tour of Casa Azul

1. Access
2. Hours
3. Tickets & How to Avoid the Lines
4. Frida's Neighbourhood of Coyoacán
5. Biography of Frida Kahlo
6. Frida and Diego
7. Start of the Self-Guided Tour of the Casa Azul
8. Touring the Exterior
9. Entry
10. Gardens
11. The Pyramid
12. Looks are Deceiving Exhibition
13. Sitting Room / Gallery
14. Dining Room
15. Diego's Bedroom
16. The Kitchen
17. Stairwell
18. Frida's Studio
19. Day Bedroom
20. Night Bedroom

Tickets & How to Avoid the Lines

Everyone seems to go on and on about the lines at Casa Azul. And yes, there are lines. But there are also lines at the Louvre, the MET and other famous museums around the world. There are lines wherever you find places which inflame the public’s imagination and curiosity to see what’s inside. So don’t be surprised, just be prepared. The best way to do this is by purchasing your tickets in advance. You select the date and time you want to arrive. When you get to Casa Azul you hop into pre-purchased ticket line (which is much shorter). Sometimes with your pre-purchased admission, you can just walk right inside.

Tickets cost 230 pesos ($12 US) on weekdays and 250 pesos ($13 US) on weekends. If you want to take pictures and some videos, you need to pay an extra 30 pesos ($1.50 US). Videos are not allowed inside but are ok in the outdoor areas.

Frida’s Neighbourhood of Coyoacán

Coyoacán is a small, quiet neighbourhood on the southern end of the city. It was once nothing more than a humble village but as Mexico City expanded, Coyoacán was absorbed into the megacity. The name comes from the Aztec word, which means “place of coyotes.” The streets are some of the oldest in Mexico City, full of colourful colonial architecture which gives it that bohemian feeling it became synonymous for. Frida’s father, an artist and famous photographer, found this quirky neighbourhood appealing. For more on Coyoacán check out my self guided walking tour!

Biography of Frida Kahlo

Frida Kahlo is one of the best-known female artists of the 20th-century. Her art is most notable for being full of ideas about sex, death, the body, gender, postcolonialism, class and race. All these ideas culminate in some of the most fantastic surrealist paintings which are anything but ordinary. Frida was born in 1907 inside the Casa Azul. The house was built by her father in 1904 and would be an emotional touchstone for young Frida. Both her mother and father had had some horrible events in their lives before Frida was born. Her father’s previous wife died in childbirth. And her mother’s ex-lover killed himself in front of her to profess his undying love. It’s impossible not to wonder how these powerful moments imprinted themselves into the family. Perhaps resulting in Frida’s ill-fated, yet extraordinary life.

Frida’s Early Health Issues

At a young age, Frida developed polio which resulted in her being bedridden for many months. It also left her with a severe limp and one of her legs being slightly shorter than the other. Being home all the time as a child meant she was around her father. She followed him around his studio, where she learned all about the creative process and how to compose a painting. She began painting and drawing under his watchful eye. Without any sons of his own, Frida became his creative successor.

He enrolled her in an art school in 1922, where she initially met Diego Rivera who was at the time, was painting a mural in the university’s auditorium. She was enthralled with him as soon as she laid eye on him and his art. She was so sure of him being one of her conquests that and would tell her friends she was going to marry him, even before speaking one word to the artist.

The Accident

One the way home from school one day, Frida’s was caught in a severe bus accident. A train crashed into the bus she was on, and it practically exploded on impact. Various people died instantly, and a few died in the hospital. Frida was left for dead, the ambulance refused to take her to the hospital as they assumed she would be dead before they arrived. But Frida was a fighter although her injuries would leave her disabled for the rest of her life.

She underwent over 30 different significant operations. The hospital staff thought she would never be able to get out of bed again. But by the end of the month, she was taking her first steps outside. Years of surgeries and recovery meant being confined to her bed once more. Her father made her a custom easel where she could paint in bed while lying down. She used this time to paint portraits of herself, as a way to comprehend the reality of what had happened to her. As her painting improved, and she was able to walk freely, she knew she had to help her family financially. Her operations had cost them greatly, and she needed to find out if she could make a career out of her art.

Frida and Diego

Frida went with various pieces of her artwork to get a critique from the famous Diego Rivera. When she met inside him, she claimed it wasn’t to flirt or get his attention. She wanted harsh criticism from the iconic artist and learn how she could improve. Diego was quite impressed by her artwork and was immediately taken with Frida’s bold personality. Frida was not your typical beauty. She embraced her more masculine characteristics. Frida had a monobrow and a bit of a moustache, but instead of hiding it or trying to remove it, she flaunted it. Some people said that she was one of the great beauties others found her almost hideous. It was this juxtaposition of opinions that Frida loved, using her sexuality as the great divider.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

After only a short period of knowing Rivera, the two were married in 1929. Her mother and father roundly objected to the marriage, and so the two of them had a small, civil ceremony, presided over by only by a hairdresser and homeopathic doctors. Their relationship was fiery and passionate — each one is inflaming the creativity of the other. Diego encouraged Frida’s penchant for wearing traditional Tehuana dresses they both viewed them as the most authentic part of Mexican heritage. They became a kind of uniform for her, which she would wear for the rest of his life.

Frida and Diego moved into the family home, the Casa Azul, as her father was no longer able to afford to live there due to his declining career. Diego was at this point, a wealthy and well-known painter and could easily afford to keep the home in the family. Before they moved into the house, the house was painted s a rather dull colour. Frida and Diego made it their mission to repaint the entirety of the house bright blue, making their mark on this space.

Love Affairs

Diego was a womanizer, and despite Frida’s acceptance to their open relationship, she found herself overcome with jealously when Diego had an affair with her sister, Cristina. The news of their affair devastated her. Frida suffered numerous miscarriages and eventually was told by doctors due to her injuries from the bus crash she would never bear children. Painting became everything to her, and it was like her artworks became her children. Frida explored more and more images from her Mexican heritage. She said that Mexico was her great mother who raised her. As she became a painter in her own right, she was less affected by Diego’s affairs. In fact, she began having her own set of relationships with men and women alike.

The longest of her affairs was with famed photographer Nickolas Muray, with whom Diego was furiously jealous. Although Frida ended up divorcing Diego in 1939, they got remarried only a year later. It seemed that no matter what happened between these two, they could not be without each other. While it certainly was an alternative lover story, I found that to be the real charm of their relationship. It’s not perfect, it’s not a fairytale, but it’s real and laid bare for us to witness in her artworks.

Frida’s Death

Despite her blossoming career, Frida’s health began to decline. Eventually, her old injuries only worsened to the point where she had to have her right leg amputated. Her pain was almost unbearable, and she attempted suicide multiple times to escape it. Diego built for her a second floor to the Casa Azul where she could paint and work without having to leave the house.

She eventually was bound to her bed along and passed away on July 13th, 1954, at the age of 47 in that very bed. Her body was brought to the Palacio de Belles Artes in the historic centre of Mexico City where hundreds of mourners came to pay their respects. During her lifetime she was known as the wife of famed painter Diego Rivera. But today it is HER who has become a part of popular culture and art history. Diego gave the Casa Azul over to the government of Mexico City and it was opened up as a museum in 1958.

Start of the Self-Guided Tour of the Casa Azul

Touring the Exterior

If you have to wait outside before heading into the centre courtyard, take a minute to observe the outer exterior architecture.

“The house, painted blue inside and out, seems to shelter a bit of sky.”

Diego and Frida painted the house this bright blue colour when they moved in. Colour was of the utmost importance to Frida in her life and in her art. This vibrant azure was a hue associated with the feeling of freedom and expansiveness, like looking out on the eternal sea. And for a woman who was often unable to leave her own four walls, a feeling of freedom was the difference between sanity and madness. The house, built-in 1904 by her father, was built in a typical Spanish style of the age with a central courtyard surrounded by various rooms all on one level. The original exterior had a bit of French flair, but Frida removed all these gaudy elements in exchange for the primitive and simplistic decorations inspired by the indigenous people of Mexico.

Entry

As you walk in the main gates, under the giant floral ofrenda to Frida, you’ll pass under various of Frida’s papier-mâché alebrijes. Alebrijes are brightly coloured Mexican folk art sculptures of fantastical creatures. They were originally created in 1930 by the artist Pedro Linares. Linares fell gravely ill and during his fever-induced hallucinations found himself dreaming of a strange forest full of wild and colourful creatures. He saw donkeys with butterfly wings, a rooster with horns and lions with the heads of eagles, all shouting the word, “Alebrijes“. When he recovered, he set to making the creatures out of wood to bring his visions into his reality. He was good friends with Diego and Frida, and she was inspired by his story and made some for herself. These somewhat terrifying creatures, now greet all guests who come through the doors.

Gardens

The first space you’ll enter is the lush gardens. Walking in here is literally a breath of fresh air! You can smell the blossoming flowers everywhere you walk, like a scented canopy. Frida made her gardens an almost sacred space. She took care of each and every plant very seriously, almost as if they were her children. She adored watching them bloom and grow. All the plants were harvested from all across Mexico, so it’s like a tiny snowglobe of Mexican horticulture in one place. You’ll find yuccas, bougainvilleas, cacti, jasmine and agave blooming throughout the year.

Across the walls of the courtyard are various pre-Columbian idols, as Diego loved collecting these treasures of Mexican heritage. He would go to the old ruins of Teotihuacan almost every weekend in his early life looking for artefacts he could bring home with him. The walls which supported the new second story, made by Diego and Frida, were created from lava rocks and embedded shells the couple found on the shores of the beaches of Mexico.

Frida’s Teaching Career

In this garden, Frida held classes for her students. She began teaching in 1943 at Las Esmeralda Art School, but she found it too hard on her disabled body to come to classes at the school in the centre of town. Her dedicated student, dubbed “Los Fridos” would come to La Caza Azul where she could mentor them under the shade of these great palm trees. Their time with the great artist in her intimate home was something that imprinted greatly on them.

The Pyramid

In the middle of the garden is a minature, red and yellow painted replica of an Aztec pyramid. This was built by Juan O’Gorman for Diego Rivera in 1946. The artist used materials like volcanic stones and basal to build the structure. Along the base of the pyramid are various replica ceremonial statues from places like Teotihuacan or Tulum.

Looks are Deceiving Exhibition

At the back of the courtyard is an exhibition room which contains some of the most personal items of Frida Kahlo. This exhibition is entitled, ‘Las apariencias engañan‘ or Looks are Deceiving. This exhibition features a treasure trove of Frida’s clothing, corsets, makeup and jewellery. All of these items were only discovered in 2004. When Diego handed the house over to the Mexican people for use as museum he asked that several bathrooms (which has been locked) were not to be opened until many years after his death. When they opened the doors, they were shocked to find all these iconic dresses which featured in many of the most famous portraits of the painter. 

Frida’s Dresses

Her Tehuana dresses have become the iconic image of the painter. And even I wished I could have taken a few copies of them for myself! Tehuana dresses come from the Tehuantepec Isthmus located in the southeastern part of Mexico in the region of Oaxaca. Oaxaca is known the world over as being the heart of the textile industry in Mexico. The woman of the area are seen as the dominant sex, and it is mainly a matriarchal society. As such, their dresses needed to reflect this power.

Frida wanted to be seen as Diego’s artistic equal and adopting these dresses, and their accessories made her feel closer to that powerful matriarch. The clothing also helped to cover up her legs which were affected dramatically by the polio and the right left which had to be eventually amputated. The white petticoats which peek out from underneath the dresses were not only beautiful but practical as they could be detached from the rest of the gown to be washed. Since these long dresses would drag on the ground, the ability to only wash this portion of the dress was very inventive.

The Corsets

The corsets are one of the rawest and most eye-opening portions of the exhibition. They show us just how much pain this beautiful artist must have been suffering through every day, even though she forced a smile. But Frida did not only hurt physically, she also suffered emotionally. Frida’s once said of her husband’s infidelity,

“I suffered two grave accidents in my life. One in which a streetcar knocked me down. The other accident is Diego.“

She used her clothing as a defence against feeling weak and small. Instead, these clothes were loud and powerful. And wearing them made her feel this way even if underneath she did not.

Frida not only had some of the most gorgeous dresses but she also adorned her body in lush jewellery, highly embroidered footwear, and expensive perfume. When she was recovering from her multiple surgeries her wounds would fester and to cover up the smell she relied on flower headpieces and perfume to mask the smell. Even in bed, she would always be seen wearing dozens of pieces of jewellery.

Sitting Room / Gallery

Entering into the house, you first pass through what was once the old sitting room, or living room as we call it today. Here Frida and Diego would entertain their famous guests such as Nelson Rockefeller, George Gershwin, caricaturist Miguel Covarrubias, and actresses Dolores del Río and María Félix. Today, this area is used as an introduction to Frida’s life through her work. Some people have been disappointed not to see more of her artwork in the house, but you just need to set your expectations. I came in not expecting to see any at all, so I was pleasantly surprised to be able to get up close to these pieces.

Portrait of My Father, 1951 

One of the paintings Frida made in 1952, just two years before her death, was a gorgeous dedication to her father. Her father also had his fair share of suffering throughout his life. He was an epileptic who had to leave behind his family fortune in his home country to escape the Nazis as he was a Hungarian-born Jew. 

Frida and the Cesarean, Unfinished 1931

This painting depicts Frida in the hospital in Detroit after her second miscarriage. In this vision, Frida is attempting to deal with the trauma of her second failed pregnancy. This is a dream which portrays what would have happened if she had been able to carry the baby to full term and deliver it by cesarean. The child lays beside her on the bed, the image of Diego looking down on her. She was never able to finish this painting. It was nothing but a lie and she prided herself on painting what she perceived as reality. Days later, she would go on to paint “Henry Ford Hospital” which depicted the real horror of the miscarriage as it truly was.

Still Life, 1942 

Frida was a woman who embraced her sexuality, and as such her paintings are full of sexual references and illusions. This still life was painted for the Mexican presidential residence but was returned to the artist most likely due to it being a little too vulgar for the upper class. The open papaya resembles the shape of a womb. To the left, we see coral fungus resembling the ovaries, and to the right, we have an open cherimoya fruit which resembles female genitalia. While some onlookers will see nothing but a bowl of fruit, Frida was tempting her audience to open their minds and their six senses.

My Family, Unfinished 1949

This painting feels like the most appropriate piece for the setting inside their family home. It’s a family tree with her grandparents at the very top. Underneath them are Frida’s parents and herself and her siblings on the bottom. A fetus is seen in the centre of the four children. This is her brother who died only a few days after his birth. But to Frida, he is still very much a part of their family even after all these years. Three figures are unfinished to the right of the frame. These are thought to be the children of her youngest sister Cristina with whom Frida had a tumultuous relationship with after Cristina’s affair with Diego. Perhaps the fraught relationship was the cause of Frida’s inability to complete their images on the family tree. Frida being too jealous of her sister’s ability to bear children when she could not.

Viva la Vida, 1954

This was the last painting which Frida would complete before she died. It is a still life of watermelon’s, which are a popular image in Mexican art. Watermelons are seen around Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) when the fruits are eaten by the dead who return to the land of the living. Although the melons are bright and colourful, there is a thread of ominousness in their use as it feels Frida is predicting her own demise. Eights days before she died she wrote these words upon the watermelons “VIVA LA VIDA – Coyoacán 1954 Mexico” (Long Live Life!). In her diary a few days before she died she would write,

“I hope that the exit is joyful, and I hope never to return”

Retablos

One of my favourite parts of the exhibition of her artworks were her retablos. These tiny votive images were created when Frida was living in Detroit. While Diego worked on his large Detroit Industry Murals, Frida occupied herself with these creations. During the time huge, political murals were all the rage, and yet Frida was creating small, religious images. Each one of these were painted onto small metal sheets. When the society as a whole was all about grandeur, Frida was creating miniature worlds you had to get close up to really understand. In a way, you needed to become more intimate with them, unlike the murals which you could understand from afar.

Judas Figures

Inside the next room are two towering figures in papier-mâché. These are mujeres bonitos or Judas figures from Tlatilco, Mexico. These “Judas” figures would usually be made of papier-mâché and filled with firecrackers that would explode on the Saturday before Easter. This tradition was thought to cleanse ones sins by burning effigies of that which represented evil. For Frida, she collected these effigies unburnt, perhaps as a symbol of sin unburdened.

Frida’s Diary

In the last room are letters, newspaper clippings and selections of Frida’s diary, all found in the house when it was turned over to the city. Reading these lines from her journal is like sitting down with the woman herself. So often we lean on interpretations to understand what an artist was thinking or feeling, but here we have the words right from her own mouth. Her life was so fraught with sadness, and yet there is a hypnotic magic to her scribblings. Even if you can’t read Spanish, looking at the furious way in which she wrote is a way of understanding her emotional state at the time. Critiques wrote of her diary,

“The diary is the most important work Kahlo ever did…it contains energy, poetry, magic. They reveal a more universal Frida…In Kahlo’s paintings, you see only the mask. In the diary, you see her unmasked. She pulls you into her world. And it’s a mad universe.”

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Dining Room

From the large sitting room, you step into the part of the house which has been preserved with all the old furnishings and decor that Frida had collected. The first room you enter is the dining room. The floors are painted bright yellow, almost neon! Most of the tables and chairs are painted the same colour to match, making them looks as if they grew out of the floor. Despite yellow often being associated with joy and cheer, Frida had a much different interpretation. She wrote in her diary, “yellow is associated with madness, sickness and, fear. It is part of the sun and of happiness.” To see this yellow spread all over her house feels like she was attempting to invite others to share in her madness.

On the walls of the room are various, bright yellow shelves displaying Frida’s precious collections. In the 20th century, Mexican folk art was very under-appreciated in fine art collections. But Frida and Diego always saw its value and cherished collecting these items to preserve, even if just for themselves, elements of their Mexican heritage.

Guests in the Casa Azul

Around this dining table the couple entertained guests such as André Breton (French writer, poet and anti-fascist), Tina Modotti (Italian photographer, model, actress, and revolutionary political activist), Edward Weston (American photographer), Leon Trotsky (Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician), Juan O’Gorman (Mexican painter and architect), Nickolas Muray (Hungarian-born American photographer and Frida’s lover), and many others.

On the shelves, in the dining room, we find two ceramic clocks. The hands of the clock do not move but are fixed on two different moments in time. The one on the left bears the date on which Frida decided to divorce Diego after discovering he was having an affair with her sister Christina. The other has the time when Frida and Diego decided to get remarried. By having this out in the open it proves how honest they both were about the problems inside their marriage. Their issues weren’t a secret and yet, in the end, their love for each other, especially inside these walls, feels eternal.

Diego’s Bedroom

On the other side of the dining room, is Diego’s bedroom. This small guest room was also used by Leon Trotsky when he stayed in Mexico City after fleeing the Soviet Union. After he and Frida had an affair, he was quickly removed from the house by Diego. On the walls of the room, hang Diego’s painting overalls along with his iconic hats he was always seen wearing.

On the antique chair near the window is a small embroidered pillow with the words “Despierta Corazon Dormido” (Wake Up, Sleeping Heart) sewn in with rainbow thread. Words I’m sure Frida would whisper to her husband every morning upon waking him up for breakfast. Sitting on the dresser along the wall are various ancient Aztec sculptures along with Diego’s death mask. Around the room are multiple paintings, most of a highly sexualized nature, to reflect Diego’s passionate character.

The Kitchen

The kitchen is one of the most elaborately decorated rooms in the house. The kitchen floor is painted the same bright yellow with Azul and yellow tiles trimming the walls. Along the walls are hung a variety of utensils, and tableware Frida used when she cooked. Frida learned how to cook from, of all people, Diego’s ex-wife. Lupe (his ex-wife) knew all of Diego’s favourite recipes and how important food was to him. Despite Lupe’s relationship not working out, she found deep affection for Frida and wanted the best for their marriage. Along the wall are dozens of miniature clay mugs which spell out “Frida + Diego” over the old stovetop. The old stove was never modernized from its original design and Frida still cooked using the woodfire while she lived there.

On either side of the window are these same clay pots used to form the shape of two doves, tying a lover’s knot. It seems everywhere you look here there are symbols of love. They often say, a way to a man’s heart is through his stomach. Often we see the kitchen as a more utilitarian space but Frida made it a room which bursts with romance and love.

On her kitchen table are several vegetable-shaped clay tureens and terra cotta painted plates and pots. Nothing Frida used in her kitchen was mass-produced or “out of the box”. Everything was handmade and embellished with images of animals or traditional Mexican designs.

Stairwell

Moving from the first floor into the newly built second storey you pass through a small stairwell with sitting areas at the bottom. This tiny courtyard-like space is bursting with folk art objects, large paintings which crawl up the walls, taxidermied animals and some charming hand-painted pieces of furniture.

Frida’s Studio

Frida’s studio was built here because of her ever-worsening illnesses and disability. After the surgery to remove her leg, she found leaving her house to be very difficult. As such, Diego built this extension for her so that she could continue to work. The steel-framed windows are wrapped around the rooms to allow for light to pour in from the outside freely. From here, Frida could also look down into the garden, almost as if she was standing right in the middle of it. The blue of the walls on the exterior are so bright they reflects right into these rooms.

Painting Studio

Along the window is where Frida would work. She had a writing desk and an area for her easel where she would paint in her wheelchairs towards the end of her life. Today, her paints, brushes and pigments are all still laid out, as if awaiting her return. A mirror sits beside her workspaces, as she would frequently need it to paint the self-portraits she was famous for. She once said,

“I paint self-portraits because I am the person I know best. I paint my own reality. The only thing I know is that I paint because I need to and I paint whatever passes through my head without any consideration.”

Sitting on the easel in front of her wheelchair is a painting she never finished, entitled “Still Life With Flag“. Towards the end of her life, she didn’t have the same control over the brush as she once used did. Her refined techniques were not quite there but her craving to paint was unabated. The easel was actually a gift to Frida from Nelson Rockefeller who came to visit them in Mexico City before asking Diego to paint a mural for him in New York.

Book Collection

Along the walls of her studio are her collection of books. As a bibliophile, I spent way too long peering against the glass, trying to make out every single book cover and title. Kahlo, as expected, was obsessed with collecting antique books about Mexican culture and old atlas detailing the topography of the country. Inside the cabinets are also several precious items and souvenirs. When she was unable to walk, her friends would all come to visit her in bed. She would always ask them to bring something with them to remind her of the outside world. It helped with her connection to the world despite being so removed from it.

Cabinets of Curiosity

Hidden away in a cabinet are boxes and boxes of all the medications she had to take to deal with the pain she suffered from. In the cabinet are also dozens of bandages and other medical equipment. Here in her own house, it seemed like she had a mobile hospital of sorts. It’s truly incredible that in all this pain she could make so many beautiful things. I know when I’m ill I find it impossible to do almost anything. Truthfully, Frida has always been an inspiration to me during some of my more serious illnesses.

Thinking of all she managed to accomplish while suffering like she did would give me the strength I needed. On her walls of the studio is also a sizeable anatomical print of the “intra-uterine life of a fetus”. After Frida’s multiple miscarriages, she became obsessed with these images. Perhaps it was a way of processing what had happened to her. Like she was desperate to find meaning for her loss and that she wasn’t simply damned.

On the floor of this space, you’ll see several large colour trunks. These were what Frida’s clothing had been stashed away inside in those locked bathrooms.

Day Bedroom

Frida actually had two different bedrooms built for her in this space. A daytime bed and a night time bed. As the names suggest, one was made for sleeping, the other, for her to lie in while she convalesced. Frida’s bedroom was left much as it was the day she died. Her tiny, four-poster bed was installed with a mirror on top so she could still paint her own self-portraits without needing even to lift her head. You can see this mirror for yourself and picture her lying there, looking up at herself, wishing to be anywhere be there. On the walls at the foot of the bed, are a series of portraits of Lenin, Stalin, and Mao Tsetung. In the corner of the room are a pair of her old crutches.

As this was the bedroom where she would do her painting, there is still a side table with various paints and brushes at hands for her if inspiration would strike. On the wall, there is a small bookshelf with some of the books she was reading before she died. Above them a grouping of photos, one of which is a picture of herself taken by her lover photographer Nickolas Muray. Above her bed is a painting of what we can only assume is a dead child with a garland of purple poppies around the frame. Photo of children who past away were popular in the Victorian era, as a means of memorializing them. We can only assume who this child was to Frida. Perhaps it was a protector or the image of what she imagined one of her children to be if she had grown up even a little.

Death Mask

Sitting on her little daybed, wrapped in one of her favourite shawls, is Frida’s death mask. They change the shawls out throughout the year depending on the season, just as Frida herself would have changed her outfits up based on the time of year.

Night Bedroom

Her night bedroom feels a little more whimsical and, appropriately, dreamlike. Above the bed, looking down at her, instead of her own visage was a frame full of butterfly specimens given to her by Japanese-American sculptor Isamu Noguchi. When asked about her disabilities Frida would often respond, “Feet, what do I need them for? If I have wings to fly.” Up with the butterflies were also a series of hanging dolls. Perhaps Frida saw herself in these dolls, flying above the world with the butterflies.

On her bed is a pillow, embroidered like the one in Diego’s room, with the words “Do not forget me, my love.”

Across from her bed, on a laced-topped table, is a headless pre-Columbian urn which contains her ashes. The urn is in the shape of a toad, which was her nickname for Diego. Even in death, she is literally inside of him.

In her night bedroom is a large green cabinet containing an extensive collection of her childhood toys. Green to Frida represented “good, warm light” and perhaps her childhood (before her polio) was one of the most cherished times of her life. Against the wall is a tiny bench with Frida’s name and the year 1910 written upon it. It is one of the only pieces of furniture from the previous household which remains.

In the corner of the room is a green and white coat rack, with little flowers dotting the surround. Upon it is one of Frida’s extra headscarves. You can imagine Frida standing here in the natural light of the morning, putting on layer up layer of clothing, jewellery and perfume, her mask to face the day.

Stairs down to the Garden

The stairs which lead back down to the garden are located opposite her daybed. The large doorway to the garden allowed for so much natural light to flood into Frida’s room so she could better see what she was painting. The stairs lead down to the reflecting pool where I imagine Frida would have come to sit and contemplate, the sound of nothing but the birds and the wind in the trees surrounding her. The truest peace she could find.

Visiting the Casa Azul, I genuinely think is as important as anything else you’ll do in Mexico City. Even if you don’t know of Frida or even perhaps aren’t interested in her artwork, this museum is so much more than a gallery. It’s a glimpse into the life of a woman who changed the future of females artists forever. She took it upon herself to preserve and share her love of Mexican indigenous cultures. And today, the image of Frida, in her traditional colourful dress and floral headpiece, is as iconic as the Mona Lisa.

Me and my Diego

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