Nothing was as perfectly Provencal as waking up at dawn every morning and walking down to the local bakery. As you approach the boulangerie, be prepared for a sensory overload. The aroma of freshly baked bread wafts through the air, drawing you in with its irresistible allure. Your eyes feast on a display of golden baguettes, flaky croissants, and other delicacies.

We came to our local boulangerie every day on our trip. And by the end of the two-week-long stay, it was like saying goodbye to new friends. They even gifted us a bottle of their homemade lavender honey. It was all wrapped up and tied with a bow. I am still thinking about how quickly we can return to Provence, almost soley to see those people again! And of course, eat their delicious baked treats!

Table Of Contents

1. French Bread Laws
2. What Makes Provencal Boulangeries Unique?
3. Be Aware of Opening Hours
4. Boulangerie vs Pâtisseries
5. Always Greet the Boulanger
6. Choosing the Right Baguette
7. French Bread
8. Viennoiseries
9. French Terms for the Boulangerie

French Bread Laws

One of the greatest parts of staying in a small town in Provence is getting to visit the local boulangeries. No matter how small the town, there will be a boulangerie. And how do I know this? Well, it’s the law. In France, a law known as the “Décret Pain” (Bread Decree) regulates the production of baguettes. The law ensures that traditional French baguettes must be made with specific ingredients and cannot contain any additives or preservatives. The law also stipulates that baguettes must be sold in the same place they are made to ensure freshness. Even the smallest villages, without any storefronts, will have a large “dépôt de pain” van that will pull up every morning to sell fresh bread to the residents.

What Makes Provencal Boulangeries Unique?

Provence boasts a bountiful agricultural landscape. Looking out your window, you can see the golden wheat fields dancing in the wind across the countryside. Thanks to locally sourced flour, olive oil, herbs, and other regional produce, you’ll find that Provencal bakeries add their own unique flavour to classic French baked goods. And the laid-back atmosphere is much less intense than in big cities where boulangeries appear to be competing against each other for the “best croissant.” Provence has no competition but an environment of mutual respect, admiration and collaboration.

Be Aware of Opening Hours

Boulangeries, especially those in Provence, tend to have some interesting, shall we say, opening hours. The very best way to check the most up-to-date hours is to look at the sign outside the boulangerie. These will always list their opening hours for each day of the week (as often they will be different throughout the week.) Boulangeries typically open around 7 am as many people come here first thing in the morning to pick up food for the day or perhaps stock their restaurant pantry. Most boulangerie will close down from 12 pm till 2 or 3 pm for their European lunchtime. Often there will be certain days of the week they will close down completely, and in those cases, you’ll always find another boulangerie in town that will be open. They strive to ensure these are on opposite days so there is never a day without bread!

Boulangerie vs Pâtisseries

All throughout the French countryside, you’ll see signs for “Boulangeries” and “Pâtisseries.” But what is the difference between the two? Although they might both sell baked goods, a boulangerie comes from the French word “Boulanger,” which means “baker.” Boulangeries are required by law to bake their bread right on the premises. Whereas patisseries can include goods baked externally but sold in-store.

While Pâtisseries specialize in a wide range of sweet pastries, cakes, and desserts, don’t think you won’t find amazing sweet treats in the boulangerie. Most local bakers are just as talented at making delectable pastries as the ones you’ll find in patisseries.

Always Greet the Boulanger

Upon entering, you must greet the Boulanger or their staff. A simple “Bonjour” or “comment ça va?” (Hello / How are you) will go a long way in establishing a friendly connection. In France, not greeting someone with “bonjour” is considered VERY rude. And it will put the entire shopping experience off the wrong foot. 

Choosing the Right Baguette

No visit to a boulangerie in Provence is complete without indulging in a fresh baguette. To ask for a baguette simply say, “Une baguette, s’il vous plaît” (One baguette, please). But more often than not, there will be more than one option for your fresh baguettes. Unlike in North America, where a baguette is a baguette, France has many different varieties.

Baguette Ordinaire vs Traditional

The two most common varieties are the baguette ordinaire and the baguette traditional. An ordinary baguette will always be your cheapest option and is exactly what you would expect from a baguette. A traditional or artisan baguette will be slightly darker in colour, with a thicker, crispier crust, often with pinched ends. This is always my choice as I love how the flavour is more pronounced in the crust when it is a little more well done.

Pain d’Épi

A specialty type of baguette, often baked on weekends in Provence, is the Pain d’Épi. This type of bread is shaped like an ear of wheat, and often, they add different kinds of seeds onto the top of the bread. The different “ears” along the baguette make it easy to tear apart with your hands and share amongst the table. 

Baguette Levain

Another find is the baguette levain or sourdough baguette. As a huge fan of sourdough bread, combining the sourdough taste with the crispy baguette form was absolute perfection!

Baguette Complete

If you’re looking for something different, see if they sell a baguette complete. This kind of baguette is made with wholemeal flour and is more like multigrain bread. Sesame, poppy and flax are both baked into the bread and spread on top of the crust. A deliciously deep flavour.

French Bread

When buying a loaf of bread (or pain in French) in the boulangerie, the most popular variety is pain de campagne. Pain de Campagne, or country-style bread, is shaped into an oval with a thick crust and usually made with a blend of wheat and white flour. Other popular varies are pain au levain (sourdough), and pain aux céréales (rustic loaf with seeds and whole grains).

If you would like your bread pre-sliced, which makes it easier to serve on picnics, be sure to request for tranché (sliced.)

Provencal Fougasse

Fougasse is a traditional Provencal bread best recognized for its unique design, resembling a leaf or an ear of wheat. Bakers create decorative slashes and cuts in the dough, which open up during baking, giving the bread its characteristic shape. Fougasse highlights the use of olive oil from the region, adding a delightful flavour and aroma to the bread. Popular filling baked into the bread includes olives, cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, herbs (such as rosemary, thyme, or oregano), and occasionally bacon or ham. 

Viennoiseries

Viennoiseries are a category of baked goods you find in the French boulangerie. These are sweet pastries typically enjoyed at breakfasts and are often served with coffee, hot chocolate, or tea. Although eating your pastries with breakfast is very popular, these sweets are made twice daily so you can enjoy them both in the morning and afternoon. Typical Viennoiseries include croissants, pain aux chocolate, brioche, palmiers, chausson aux pommes and more!

Croissants

Next on our bread-buying adventure is the irresistible croissant. As you gaze upon the golden crescents of buttery goodness, allow yourself to be transported to a world of pure indulgence. And don’t think about the butter or calories… Just close your eyes and enjoy. While you can always opt for the traditional butter croissant, my favourites are the pain au chocolate or chocolate croissants. The same croissant base is used to fold in sticks of rich chocolate which melts in the centre of the pastry.

Pain Aux Raisins

Pain aux Raisins are made with the same croissant dough but are mixed with raisins and sometimes a pistachio filling. The raw dough is then rolled into a flat, round shape. It is meant to mirror the image of a snail shell, and as such, it is often called an “escargot.“ Strange and perhaps unappetizing name for a sweet pastry, but don’t let that put you off; these are absolutely delicious.

Palmier

A Palmier, also known as “Palm Leaf” or “Elephant Ear,” is made from a thin, flaky puff pastry. When baked, the dough is sprinkled with sugar, which caramelizes to create a crisp, golden-brown exterior. The name “Palmier” (meaning “palm tree” in French) comes from its resemblance to a palm leaf.

Sacristain

If you’re looking for something a little different, go for the Sacristains. Sacristains are delicate, sweet, and irresistibly crispy! These pastries are covered in caramelized sugar and almonds on the outside and have tender, flaky layers on the inside. The layers of puff pastry as twisted before baking to meld all the different flavours together. The result is a pastry that almost resembles a length of twisted rope. These pastries can be found all over France but are very popular in Provence. Because of their long shape, they are ideal to have with a cup of coffee as you dip the pastry into it repeatedly. Adding that delicious rich, and slightly bitter flavour to the sweet pastry. 

Chocolate Torsades 

Also similar to the Sacristain are Chocolate Torsades. The word “Torsades” comes from the French term for “twists” or “braids,” which perfectly describes the pastry’s distinctive appearance. Chocolate Torsades are made from flaky, buttery puff pastry but theses are infused with cocoa or melted chocolate. Great for kids!

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Éclairs

One of the most classic French desserts has got to be Éclairs! This French pastry is known for its elongated shape, light choux pastry shell, and delectable fillings. The word “éclair” in French means “flash of lightning,” likely named due to the glistening chocolate glaze that resembles a shiny lightning bolt.

Éclairs are typically filled with flavoured creams or custards. This includes everything from vanilla or chocolate pastry cream, coffee-flavoured custard, or even fruit-flavoured creams. The pastries are then topped with glossy icing or chocolate ganache. Truly irresistible for anyone with a sweet tooth.

Tarte Tropézienne

If you love brioche, then you need to try out a Tarte Tropézienne. This amazing delicacy was born in southern France and is one of the most popular treats on the shelf. This pastry, often simply called “Tropézienne,” is made from a thick brioche bun sliced horizontally into two layers. A light, rich, cream filling is generously spread over the bottom layer. And the top is placed delicately back on top, like a sandwich. The top of the Tropézienne is then dusted with powdered sugar, giving it an elegant finish.

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The pastry’s name, “Tarte Tropézienne,” was inspired by the seaside town of Saint-Tropez. Famed actress Brigitte Bardot visited Saint-Tropez during the filming of the movie, “And God Created Woman,” in the 1950s. During filming, pastry artist Alexandre Micka presented Bardot with his unique take on a brioche tart. She loved it so much that she suggested naming it “La Tarte Tropézienne.” Her endorsement helped propel the pastry to fame and contributed to its widespread popularity today.

Charlotte 

A Charlotte is a classic and elegant French pastry that feels like a special treat. The dessert is iconic thanks to its ring of ladyfingers enclosing a luscious filling, usually made of fruit, custard, or mousse. It looks like a little crown filled with sweets.

Tartelettes Chiboust

Tartelettes Chiboust, also known as Tartelettes à la Chiboust or simply Chiboust Tartlets, are made from a thin pastry crust filled with wobbly custard cream. “Chiboust” refers to French pastry chef François Chiboust, credited with its creation. After the cream is added to the baked crust, it is baked again—this time with a sprinkling of sugar on top to create a caramelized crust atop the soft cream. The tartlets are usually garnished with fresh fruit, such as raspberries or strawberries. Really, whatever is in season!

Croque Monsieur & Croque Madame 

If you’re looking to pick up something savoury or perhaps something to have for lunch, you should always make a point to grab either the Croque Monsieur or Croque Madame. These classic French sandwiches are made with ham, cheese, and a layer of rich béchamel sauce. A Croque Monsieur is a ham and cheese sandwich grilled or baked until the bread becomes golden and crispy. A Croque Madame is a variation of the Croque Monsieur but with the addition of a fried or poached egg on top. It’s a little messy to eat but well worth the effort! Both sandwiches come on sliced bread or on a baguette, depending on the preference of your Boulanger.

French Terms for the Boulangerie

At the heart of every boulangerie in Provence lies a commitment to craftsmanship passed down through generations. The bakers’ dedication to preserving time-honoured techniques and using high-quality, locally sourced ingredients creates an unmistakable authenticity in every delicacy they offer. The experience of enjoying a warm croissant or a crusty baguette becomes a celebration of tradition, connecting us to the past while savouring the present. I hope you enjoyed this guide to exploring a French Boulangerie, and it helps you feel more confident in stepping inside your local boulangerie on your next trip to Provence!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate French Bakery Guide, a Boulangerie in Provence first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Honestly any day you’re in town this is a great way to spend an afternoon. But if you’re looking for something chill and fun for your first day this is the Taco Tour for you! La Condesa is a super safe and really relaxing neighbourhood inside bustling Mexico City. This part of town eases you into the history and culture of Mexico City all through food!

About The Taco Stops

All the stops we’ll make along the are established restaurants, so you won’t need to flex any street food savvy just yet. While street food is incredible in Mexico City and something I really recommend everyone try, I realize on your first day you might want to start slow, with more easy-to-find and order at stops. A little bit of Spanish goes a long way as many of these shops don’t have servers that speak English. That being said, since we’re in a touristy area, a few of the restaurants actually have English menus.

DIY Taco Tour La Condesa Map

List of Restaurants:

1. Taquería Orinoco
2. El Pescadito
3. Tacos Don Juan
5. Taquería El Califa
6. Taqueria El Greco
7. Tacos Hola El Güero

Taquería Orinoco

We start our tour in the north of La Condesa, inside Taquería Orinoco. Taquería Orinoco serves up Northern-style tacos. Their menu is tiny, with three types of meat; trompo (al pastor pork), res (beef), and chicharron (fried pork skin). You can order each flavour on a maize (corn) or harina (flour) tortilla. Or even opt for the crispy tostada. In the north, eating a flour tortilla is expected, so if you want to go for the traditional version you’ll order the harina. 

Once you’re seated, either side or outside, they’ll bring you a large platter of their salsas, which are some of my favourites! Get a glass of freshly made agua fresca (I recommend the hibiscus flavour) to wash it all down! Remember, this is just the first stop, so be sure to only order one taco; you can always come back for more.

Address: Avenue Yucatan 3, Hipódromo
Cost: 24-36 pesos/taco

El Pescadito

Take a walk west along with Avenue Álvaro Obregón until you arrive at Parque Espana. This is a beautiful little parkette worth exploring if you’re taking your time along this Taco Tour. Just off the Parque Espana is the famous El Pescadito. El Pescadito is a little chain in Mexico City that specializes in fish tacos! You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the cheery face of their fish mascot above the sign on the door beckoning you to enter!

The fish on offer here is the smoked marlin which has the most indearing pink colour against the yellow corn tortillas. They also serve up my favourite which are the shrimp (camarón) tacos. You can also get the campechano taco which combines battered fish and shrimp, so you can try both the options! The best of both worlds. One of my favourite aspects of this restaurant is the toppings bar! Here you can get everything from pickled red onions to shredded cabbage, hot sauce and loads of limes! All self-serve so you can really customize your own perfect taco.

Address: Calle Atlixco 38, Colonia Condesa
Cost: 46 pesos/taco

Tacos Don Juan

Directly across the street from El Pescadito is another hot spot in La Condesa; Tacos Don Juan! Hidden under a small, unassuming sign inside an old art deco-inspired building is a family-run joint with a handwritten menu that changes daily. Make sure you place an order for the quesabirria taco. Birria is beef stew, and the tacos are made from this incredibly tender and flavourful meat. The Quesabirria taco is served with a scoop of meat, then covered in cheese and given a quick fry-up on the grill. What you’re left with is this incredible crispy yet still moist taco that is bursting with flavour!

Address: Calle Atlixco 42, Colonia Condesa
Cost: 46 pesos/quesabirria taco

Walk south along Calle Atlixco until you reach Avenue Tamaulipas. From here, it’s only one block east to our next stop; . claims to be where tacos Al Pastor were first invented. However, almost all shops selling tacos Al Pastor seem to make this claim. Nonetheless, this is one of my favourite places to try out the famous taco.

Tacos Al Pastor was more than likely invented in Puebla in 1930. It was made by a Lebanese immigrant family who introduced the concept of shawarma and roasting meat upright on a spit to the Mexican people. The distinct red colour of the meat is made from marinating the meat in achiote paste. This popular marinade is made from annatto seeds, pepper, cumin, coriander, oregano, garlic and cloves. Once the meat is cooked, it’s shaved off the spit giving it the most intoxicating slightly burnt, crispy flavour. The tacos are served with a fresh slice of pineapple, onion, and cilantro. The meat here is super fresh, and I love how they top it off with their tasty salsas.

Address: Avenue Tamaulipas 122, Colonia Condesa, 
Cost: 27 pesos/taco

Taquería El Califa

At the edge of La Condesa sits a huge taco instituion Taquería El Califa. This is one of the big “grill joints” in town where you can get a ton of different types of tacos. The restaurant is as big as its menu with two floors of seating. Although there are lots of different options, for me, this is where to come to get beef tacos. The bistec (marinated flat iron beef) and costilla (beef rib) are very thin slices of beef, quickly grilled up and placed onto a taco. You can dress it up at the table with their various toppings to your preference. I would be sure some onions and avocado, as the pairing is absolutely perfect.

Address: Altata 22, Hipódromo, Cuauhtémoc
Cost: 30 pesos/taco

Taqueria El Greco

Head diagonally west across Avenue Nuevo León towards the intersection of Avenue Michoacán. Here you’ll find Taqueria El Greco which is home to the original Arabian bread tacos. Their Doneraky tacos are made in an Arab style using a pita instead of a tortilla. Another gift from the Lebanese immigrants who came to Mexico City in the 30s. They would change the taco game forever by introducing these new takes on the classic taco. The roasted meat is so tender and fresh and the softness of the fluffy pita absorbs all the fatty drippings making it such a delight to eat! Get it along with cheese and avocado for an absolute taste sensation!

Address: Av Michoacán 54-Local B – 91 And 92, Hipódromo,
Cost: 76 pesos/taco with cheese and avocado

Tacos Hola El Güero

The infamous Hola Tacos is just a block down from El Greco, around the corner on Amsterdam Avenue. This taco shop specializes in Guisado tacos. Guisado means “stew” in Spanish. Various ingredients are marinaded for hours and hours, making them super juicy, flavourful and tender. But you can get much more than just meat there. If they still have any of the nopales (cactus pads) available when you arrive (which they might not as this sells out quickly), I would highly advise trying them out. Nopales are a popular filling and topping on tacos. But I find the stew they make here with them adds so much flavour to the nopales than when they are only grilled. The stewed Poblanas peppers with cream is also one of my favourites!

Address: Amsterdam 135, Hipódromo, Cuauhtémoc
Cost: 23 pesos/taco

We end our tour here on Amsterdam Avenue, across from Parque Mexico. This is the perfect place to take a rest after all those tacos. Take a seat under the pergola around the Teatro Lindbergh or inside the peaceful Audiorama. As you digest, think about your favourite taco of the day and let me know in the comments if you managed to finish the tour! Or if you had to come back for more

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate DIY Taco Tour of La Condesa, Mexico City; a Foodie’s Dream! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

A Welcome Bouquet

I find that a bouquet of fresh flowers is the perfect thing to buy yourself upon arriving in a new city. It gives you a little task to complete, allows you to explore a new part of the city, and brings a touch of your personality into any standard hotel room. If you’ve been in Mexico City for any length of time, you’ll undoubtedly have seen the vast flower carts that wheel around the city. Bursting with brightly coloured flowers as they mill about the streets.

There are also beautiful flower stands that dot the edges of busy neighbourhoods and leafy promenades. Basically, you won’t be far from flowers anywhere you go in Mexico City! But the source of all these incredible flowers is the great Mercado Jamaica. So if you want to get your flowers from the source, a trip to Mercado Jamaica is well worth your time. But there is so much more to see in this marketplace than just flowers. Come hungry as this flower market is also home to some of the most amazing food anywhere in the city!

Guide to the Mercado Jamaica

1. Location & How to Get there?
2. History of the Jamaica Market
3. Tips
   • Notes on Photography
   • Holidays
   • Helpful Spanish
4. The Layout of the Market
5. Carnitas Paty
   • Tepache
6. Huaraches Rossy
7. Mariscos Los Paisas
8. Piñata Market
9. Fresh Fruit Stands
10. Jamaica Flowers
11. Chorizo Verde
12. Flower Market
13. Florists
14. La Güera Elotes
15. Mural

Location & How to Get there?

The Mercado Jamaica is located on the corner of Avenida Congreso de la Unión and Avenida Morelos, southeast of the Historic Center of Mexico City. 

Uber

Uber is always my best recommendation for travel in Mexico City. It’s very safe and very cheap! The Mercado Jamaica is about a 13-minute ride from La Condesa, Roma Norte or the Historic Centre. And it will only cost you about 35 pesos or $1.35 USD! Although traffic in Mexico City is as bad as you might have heard, just avoid peak hours and you should be fine to avoid the worst of the traffic.

Metro

The market is also easily accessible by the metro. If you are departing from La Condesa or Roma you can hop on brown line #9. Get on at Chilpancingo station and take the train four stops to Jamaica station (about 12 minutes). If you are departing from the Historic Centre, you’ll need to take two different metro lines. First, depart from the #2 blue line from Tasqueña station and take it three stops to Chabacano station (6 mins). Transfer from here to the brown line #9 and continue one stop towards Jamaica station (3 mins). The metro costs only 5 pesos, and if you’re up for more of an adventurous journey, this is an easy and quick trip. But always be sure to practice caution on the metro and keep your valuables safe and not on display.

History of the Jamaica Market

Although you might read the word “Jamaica” and think of the country, Jamaica is actually the Spanish word for hibiscus flower. So the name of the market translates into the Hibiscus Market. The Mercado Jamaica was officially established in the 1950s when the eastern part of Mexico City was a governmental focus for modernization and revitalization. But outdoor marketplaces have existed in this spot for hundreds of years. Being located to the east of the city, near the chinampas of Lake Xochimilco, this part of town has always had wonderful access to the fruits, vegetables and flowers that have been grown there for centuries.

Tips

Cash is King

Bring cash with you to the market to buy your flowers and food as almost everywhere is cash only. But remember not to carry too much money on you when arriving as you need to be aware of pickpockets in such a busy environment. I would bring about 500 pesos ($25 USD) per person, which is more than enough if you want to buy yourself a lovely bouquet, grab some food and get a little left if you see a souvenir or two you’d like to purchase. 

Come Hungry!

Despite the fact that we are going to what is known for being a “flower market” this is still a foodie’s paradise so come on an empty stomach and get ready to eat. If you get full but want to come back for more food later you can always grab a bite to eat to start, then explore the flower market, and return to the starting point where you can sample the rest of the eateries you didn’t try earlier.

How to Keep Safe

This market is slightly outside the tourist centre, so you should be more cautious about your belongings. But no more than you should be in any busy marketplace anywhere in the world. Keeping aware of your surroundings is the most important thing you can do. If you carry a backpack, you can wear it in front of you. And always be sure to keep any valuables zipped inside inner pockets. Remember, this is a very busy, working market, so be sure not to stand in the way of people going about their business. Large carts and trucks often go up and down the aisles making deliveries, so keep a lookout for them.

Notes on Photography

I took many pictures here, had my phone out, and never felt unsafe. But I would advise you to take out your phone or camera, snap a few pictures and then put it away instead of just keeping it in your hand. This is probably not 100% necessary, but I always lean on the side of caution.

Be sure you keep a keen eye open for the “No Photography” signs around the market. There are several reasons for this. Some florists are wary of other sellers stealing their designs so they don’t allow photos of their products. Other vendors might have personal reasons for not being photographed, spiritual or simply, for privacy. No matter the reason, please respect their wishes. Many places in the market do not have these signs, so you’ll be able to get all the pictures you need elsewhere. If in doubt, it’s always polite to ask before taking a picture.

When To Go

The best time for fresh flowers in Mexico City is from April to July. Although flowers are available year-round from greenhouses, this time of year is when you can get the flowers for the cheapest price as they are the most abundant. I would advise you to avoid going here on the weekends. This is when the market is the busiest and most chaotic. I found that visiting on the weekdays meant there was still lots to see, buy, and eat, but the atmosphere was a bit more laid back. Because this market also exports flowers around the world and throughout the country, this is the only market in Mexico City that is open 24 hours a day! So you can be sure that no matter when you visit there is something to see!

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Holidays

If you find yourself in Mexico City during the Day of the Dead festivities, Mercado Jamaica is incredible to check out. It is the main supplier of hundreds of thousands of flowers that adorn ofrendas all over the city. The market is filled to bursting during this time of year, with truckloads of marigolds coming to and from every day! Marigolds are called ‘cempaxuchitl‘ in Spanish, which means “flower of the dead.” Since they are one of the most fragile flowers they have been known to represent the fragility of life itself.

Another fantastic time of year to come to Mercado Jamaica is at Christmas time. Even in Mexico City, you’ll find hundreds of evergreen Christmas trees lining the outside of the marketplace, ready to be picked up by excited families to nestle their presents under. Inside you’ll find hundreds of poinsettias, as this Christmas flower is locally grown in Mexico. The piñatas are a real showstopper at Christmas time, and you’ll find one in almost every household. Piñatas were traditionally designed in the shape of a seven coned star, with each spoke representing one of the seven deadly sins. Bashing the piñata was the symbol of good triumphing over evil and the fruit and candy inside the reward for leading a good, Christian life.

Helpful Spanish

Here are some handy dandy Spanish words to help you out at the Market! The colours will be very helpful to learn so you can ask for the right coloured flowers to suit your bouquet.

The Layout of the Market

The Mercado Jamaica is divided into different areas called “carrils” which means lanes. The northernmost building is almost totally devoid of flowers and is primarily where you’ll find amazing street food. I’ve noted it as the “food market” on the map below. There are maps inside the market but they are few and far between so I went ahead and made my own. As you wander south, you’ll enter Carril #4. As you can see from the map below, marked in green, this section of the market sells “Articulos de 1ra Necesidad” which is like saying grocery items. This is where you’ll find produce, candies, dried peppers, toys and piñatas.

It’s not until the southernmost sections, Carril #2 and #1 that you’ll start to see the true enormity of the flower market. Before you can even see the flowers, you’ll know you’ve arrived. There are two sets of public washrooms in the market. Be sure to bring a 5 peso coin with you as they usually charge a small fee to use the washroom and get a handful of toilet paper when you go inside.

If you arrive via the metro, you should come out of the station on the north side of the market, along Avenue Morelos. If you’re arriving by Uber, set your destination to the northeast corner of the market. At the corner of Avenue Morelos and H. Congreso de la Union.

Carnitas Paty

Your first stop should be at a long communal table right at the front of the market outside the food stall Carnitas Paty. Pig heads hang in the butcher shops down the aisle, and you know right away you’re in the place to get pork! Carnitas Paty specializes in different cuts of meat served up on a double stack of fresh corn tortillas. I would go for the Costilla (ribs), lengua (tongue – which, yes, is amazing) or the trompa (roasted pork). 

All the tacos come topped with raw onions and cilantro. While I thought I’d had carnitas before, after tasting this, it felt like I had never eaten them before in my life. This was the best-tasting taco I’ve ever eaten, and I still dream about it! All their tacos cost 30 pesos, and you can sample the various salsaa spread out on the table for an extra kick.

Tepache

To pair with your tacos, you must try their tepache. Tepache is a fermented pineapple drink made from the peel and the rind of pineapples and refined cane sugar. It has that tang you get from other fermented drinks like kombucha. It is super sweet but delicious and definitely helps cleanse the palette after fatty pork tacos. It’s really the perfect combination! You can get a litre for 30 pesos, a half litre for 15 pesos or just a glass for 12 pesos.

Huaraches Rossy

Beside the Carnitas stand, you can find another stall called Huaraches Rossy. Huaraches are a Mexican street food staple made from a piece of masa dough. The dough is mixed with pinto beans and rolled into an oblong, similar to the shape of the sole of a Huarache shoe, hence the name. The dough is then fried on the comal (grill) and crowned with various toppings.

The huaraches at Huaraches Rossy are known for their sides consisting of a slice of fresh avocado, a cooked nopal pad, fried greens onions and lemon. You can get your Huarache with fried eggs (huevos), cheese (queso), ribs (Costilla), chicken breast (pechuga) and more. My favourite option if you arrive in the morning is fried eggs and cheese. Each huarache costs 65 pesos or $3.30 USD.

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Mariscos Los Paisas

One of the most famous street food stalls in Mercado Jamaica is Mariscos Los Paisas. They are best known for their famous tacos Al pastor made with octopus instead of the traditional pork shoulder. The stacked octopi are spinning around the spit as the chefs coat them in that iconic red al pastor sauce. If you only want to try the octopus tacos, you can simply order one of those, but my recommendation (if you’re a seafood lover) is to go for the trio of tacos. This consists of Carnitas de Atún (tuna tacos), Pulpo al Pastor (octopus al pastor) and Suadero con Camaron (stewed shrimp tacos). Although Mexico City is far from the ocean, they still have access to the fantastic seafood that the oceanside towns are known for. And this is one of the best places in the city to give these dishes a try.

Piñata Market

Walking deeper into the market, into the next building (Carril #4) you will start to see large stalls selling hundreds and hundreds of pinatas. Mercado Jamaica is known for its huge piñatas selection. Design range from traditional stars to cartoon characters. And I even saw a covid one! What a perfect thing to bash away at, a way of taking out all the pent-up frustration over the loss of the last two years. These stands also sell lots of toys, party decorations and little candies perfect to stuff inside the pinatas. 

Fresh Fruit Stands

In this part of the market, you’ll also find rows and rows of vendors selling fresh fruit and vegetables. Many different fruits are stacked high up on tables, they look like little gems as they are so brightly coloured and shiny. Some vacuum sealed inside pre-made fruit baskets ready to be presented as a delicious gift.

There is a myriad of different fruit on sale at the market. Many of which I had never even heard of before, let alone tasted. If you’re in town for a few days, I implore you to just go out and buy a selection of different fruits to try! Even if you have no idea what they are, they cost very little, and it’s so much fun to do a little taste test at home to see which ones are your favourite.

Fruit doesn’t need to be cooked so there’s no need for a kitchen. But you will need a good knife to cut into most fruits. I often ask the vendors if they can cut it open and then put it in a bag. If not, you can always find a vendor in the market who sells kitchen knives.

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What to Try

If you’re interested in a selection of my favourite options, I would start with the Soursop (or guanabana). This fruit is tangy, sweet, and, as the name indicates, sour. It’s a large, green fruit with a hard rind and big spikes. You also should find some black zapote, which tastes like chocolatey permission pudding! It is indeed black when you cut into it, and you can eat it out of the rind with only a spoon. The black zapote is actually green on the outside and similar in shape to a persimmon.

Chirimoya also blew my mind! The Chirimoya is also called the “custard apple” as the flesh inside the fruit is soft and the colour of custard. But it tastes like a strawberry blended with a kiwi. Mark Twain is known for calling the Chirimoya “the most delicious fruit known to man.” It is about the size of a large apple and has what almost looks like green scales on the outside.

Make sure you also see out some mamey fruit if it’s in season. Mamey is a fruit with brown, hairy skin, but it looks like a sweet potato with the pit of an avocado when you cut into it. It is like a combination of apricot, sweet potato and peach. I love the flavour, especially in a smoothie. 

Jamaica Flowers

As the name of the market suggests, you’ll find lots of dried Jamaica (hibiscus) flowers. They can be found in huge, dark purple piles hidden away inside large barrels. The flower heads themselves look like a spikey, shrivelled version of the fresh flower. Jamaica or hibiscus flowers came to Mexico after colonization and actually originated from Africa. The most popular way to use dried flowers in Mexico is in Aguas Frescas. Aguas Fresca translates to “fresh water” and are amazingly refreshing beverages made from, water mixed with a variety of different flavours. The most popular flavour is Jamaica. The drink is made by boiling dried flowers (like you’d do with ta) and mixing them with water, sugar, ginger, and cinnamon. The flavour is incredible and definitely one of my favourite ways to compliment a spicy taco. 

One of my friends also often adds just one dried flower to her pot of cardamon tea, and let me tell you, it’s life-changing! So be sure to grab yourself some dried hibiscus flowers when you’re in the market. If you’re travelling back to the US or Canada, just make sure they are in a sealed bag, but many places in the market do sell them like this if you ask.

Chorizo Verde

Among the fruits and vegetable stands, there is a butcher shop that sells one of the most unique tacos I’ve ever had! You’ll spot their shop by the bright yellow exterior, but there is no store sign outside. You’ll be able to recognize it by the large display of green herbs laid out beneath the meats on sale right out front. As well to fresh meat to bring home for dinner, they also have fresh tacos to sample right there in the Market. Order yourself up a green chorizo taco and take a seat on the small tables out front.

The green chorizo is made from pork sausage, mixed with a blend of fresh green veggies like spinach and lettuce. Then zesty green herbs are added to ramp the flavour up. Anything from cilantro, thyme, marjoram, whatever is in season. After this, they add green chillies (because heat is a staple of the chorizo sausage) and the most important and unique ingredient – NUTS! Yes, that’s right, they add anything from peanuts to pumpkins seeds or almonds to the meat. I cannot explain how unbelievable the taste of this taco is; you just have to try it for yourself. 

Flower Market

As you head further south into the market, you’ll finally start to smell the aroma of fresh flowers. Follow your nose towards the brightly coloured flowers which seem to almost erupt from the ground. Walking around the flower market is the best kind of chaos. People are milling about, grabbing cartfuls of flowers for their stands in the city and small bouquets for their homes. Voices cry over one other as people haggled for the best prices. 

Enormous sunflowers, roses, chrysanthemums, gerbera daisies and lilies line the edges of the aisles in huge brightly coloured buckets. A dozen long stem roses were on sale for only $50 pesos, which is $2.50 USD! A dozen sunflowers about 6 feet tall were on sale for $90 pesos, just 4.60. I couldn’t believe the prices, and it took everything in me not to just go nuts and buy it all. Prices were the best when I visited as it was during the Springtime. If you visit in the winter expect prices to be slightly higher as the flowers are less abundant and need to be ground in greenhouses as opposed to the chinampas.

Florists

As you move through the wholesale market, you’ll come into another section that sells MASSIVE pre-made bouquets from a myriad of different florists. These monumental displays are meant for funerals, communions, weddings and quinceañeras. The flowers are formed into giant hearts, large crosses, and baskets as big as a small child. Apparently, one of the most popular reasons people buy these huge floral arrangements is to apologize for cheating on their wives or girlfriends. The bigger the bouquet, the more sorry you’ll appear. Especially to the neighbours who can’t help but notice you walking home, with this typical guilty display.

La Güera Elotes

At the end of the market, right near the exit doors onto Guillermo Prieto street, is a small shop called La Güera Elotes, selling popular Mexican street food, but elevated to another level. Esquites are fire-roasted corn kernels stewed in lard, mixed with aromatic herbs and Arbol chillies. I’ve had esquites many times before, as they are one of my favourite street snacks, but none as delicious as the ones we got here! There are definitely some secret ingredients at work here. A small cup costs $20 pesos, a medium is $22, and a large is $25. 

You can also get Elotes, which is the same idea, but instead, the corn is grilled on the cob. They offer a specialty here called ‘dorielotes,’ which covers the corn cob mayo which is rolled in crushed Doritos! The store is also famous for its pan de elote, or cornbread. Unlike American cornbread, which is more of a savoury treat, their cornbread is like a cake. It’s very sweet and absolutely fantastic! It’s a bit dry, so be sure to have a drink on hand.

Mural

Before leaving the market, make sure you stop outside along Highway Congreso de la Unión to see the incredible murals painted along the outside of the Mercado Jamaica. Muralism in Mexico is such a popular thing to see everywhere you go. But the murals outside this market are so enormous, and it’s amazing to see the works of art that span the entirety of the building! There is always a new work of art to discover as they change throughout the year. To the delight of the vendors, everyday shoppers, tourists as well as the drivers who pass by on the highway on their way to work. Murals are truly such an incredible way to liven up a street and bring so much joy to an otherwise blank exterior. Much like flowers, that bring life into an otherwise bland space.

I hope you enjoyed this tour of Mercado Jamaica! It’s honestly one of my favourite markets in Mexico City and well worth the time it takes to get here. Despite being a little out of the way, there is so much to see and do here so you’ll really feel like it’s worth the 20-minute drive from the city centre. Let me know in the comment what your favourite market is either in Mexico City or around the world

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

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Filigrana

Filigrana is my new favourite brunch spot so I had to update this list to feature it. Walking inside, you are immediately in awe of the environment. The glass walls allow the beautiful morning sun to filter in, creating rainbows of light on the floor. You are immediately greeted by friendly servers and before you’ve ever ordered are brought over to their pastry tray with some of the most inventive and delicious pastries! I had to try at least one even though I knew more food was on the way. Filigrana specialized in Mexican fusion with dishes that combine a variety of different cultures. The tortillas served alongside your meal are made literally on sight and you can see the tortillas makers around the corner from the washroom for some in-house entertainment.

Be sure to sample the licuado de mamey, which is a smoothie made with the Mexican native mamey fruit! So creamy and delicious. For your meal I recommend highly the tostadas, chilaquiles and, of course, some delicious freshly made guacamole served with their fresh tortillas. What is so convenient about Filigrana is the fact you can make easy reservations in advance on Opentable. Especially if you’re visiting on a weekend with a larger group reservations are absolutely mandatory! But they’re not too hard to find if you book up well enough in advance.

Panadería Rosetta

Panadería Rosetta is a café that combines the best of French and European traditions with Mexican ones. The café offers a daily selection of bread, so depending on what day you come by, there is always something extra special to try. They offer both sweet and savoury bread as well as sandwiches, cakes, muffins and more! Everything hidden away in their little glass cases is to die for. Their baked good are so delicious in fact that this bakery delivers their goods to dozens of cafes around town. But I like coming right to the source!

While they have some table service, I love coming to Panadería Rosetta to stock up on various treats and then carry them over to a nearby park to enjoy my spread. Mexico City is home to a plethora of public parks, and they make the perfect spot for a morning picnic! I love nothing more than Sunday brunch in the park as Sunday is when everyone brings out their dogs to play. It’s so much fun to just sit back and watch the adorable little pups playing.

Restaurante El Cardenal

Restaurante El Cardenal is an institution in Mexico City with multiple different locations. The San Ángel location is their newest expansion, and it’s by far my favourite location! El Cardenal was founded in 1969, and the family founders wanted to bring their love of traditional Mexican cuisine to an upscale setting. One of the most luxurious parts of dining inside El Cardenal in San Ángel is the gorgeous architecture. The restaurant is set inside an old colonial mansion. The stained glass windows and gleaming wood floors make just sitting inside such a joy to experience.

To start the perfect breakfast, begin with hot chocolate, not coffee! Their unique hot chocolate is made with famous Doña Oliva chocolate and is like drinking a cup of history. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico and was an essential part of the Aztec culture from 1400 AD. My favourite part about the experience of eating here was the pastry tray. When you come inside a waiter brings you over an enormous tray of sweet pastries. And you can choose, with your own eyes, which pastry you’d want to start off the meal right with.

Another traditional breakfast dish you’ll only find in Mexico is the Egg omelette with escamoles. Escamoles are colloquially called “Mexican caviar,” and are edible ant larvae. Escamoles have been consumed in Mexico since the age of the Aztecs and are high in nutritional value. It’s definitely one of the most unique and classic dishes on the menu. But if that’s not your thing they have many other traditional options for those who aren’t that adventurous.

La Güera Tortas de Chilaquiles

La Güera Tortas de Chilaquiles is one of those local hot spots that is finally getting its due with the international crowds. But sadly, this means the secret is out, and you NEED to get here early for a chance at these fantastic sandwiches. This popup street food stand is set up every morning on the corner of Tamaulipas and Alfonso Reyes in La Condesa. We stumbled upon this place as it was only a few blocks away from our hotel. One piece of advice I almost always follow when travelling is that when you see line up for food, get in line. Especially if the people in line are locals. And I wasn’t disappointed.

A tortas de chilaquiles is a massive breakfast sandwich made to order. When you approach the table their little makeshift assembly line will get to work putting together your sandwich. Inside that perfectly crispy yet pillowy-soft bun are huge handfuls of shredded chicken, fried chicken cutlet, or cochinita pibil (pork). When they ask which meat you want, just point if you don’t know what they’re called. And honestly, it’s all delicious but my preference is always the pibil. On top of the meat, they will slather a layer of crema, crumbled queso fresco, onions and spicy peppers. All for only 35 PESOS!!! That’s less than $2! And the sandwich is enormous, I almost always split the order with my husband.

The only caveat? If you plan to come here on the weekend, be prepared to line up early (like 7 am early). Although the stand won’t start serving until 8am, you’ll see the line before you arrive and you’ll just have to wait patiently. I try to come on the weekdays when things are a little slower.

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Cafe De Tacuba

Cafe De Tacuba is a slice of history carved into the fabric of the Historic District. The café tends to get extremely busy during brunch hours, but it’s worth the wait if you want to try their honey and caramel-layered pancakes with cinnamon. Café de Tacuba has been a hot spot here in the Historic District since 1912. The restaurant gained real notoriety in 1922 when Diego Rivera held his wedding reception to novelist Guadalupe Marín here. Sadly, Rivera would divorce Marín and marry one of the most famous Mexican artists, Frida Khalo. Another notable event that took place here was the assassination of the local governor of Veracruz, Manlio Fabio Altamirano Flores. You might think such an event would put people off, but it only increased the draw.

But it’s not just the history that brings people here. Aside from the fantastic food is the incredible interior design. The interior is covered in fantastical paintings from the pre-Hispanic period. Vibrant mosaics and stained glass windows encircling the space make you feel like dining inside a museum. It’s truly a joy to eat here!

Lalo!

If you want to go to brunch and be guaranteed a smile, then you must visit Lalo! Lalo! is another popular brunch spot located in the Roma neighbourhood. Lalo! is the nickname of the owner and acclaimed chef Eduardo Garcia. Brunch is bustling here, so be prepared to wait a while to get a table but trust me, it’s worth it

Painted on the cafe walls are these incredible colourful, feel-good drawings by Belgian graffiti artist Blue Warrior. They say you eat with your eyes, and being surrounded by these positive and happy-inducing images; you can’t help but eat while filled with pure joy. The most popular items on the menu are their huevos con chorizo and the Huevos fritos con salsa ranchera.

Mercado Medellín

If you’re looking for an uncomplicated yet authentic brunch inside one of the most lively markets, you need to make your way over to Mercado Medellín. The Colonia Roma neighbourhood is also known as “Little Havana” because of the large number of Cuban and Latin American immigrants that live in the area. With this comes an incredible selection of coffee. Inside the market, there are a few different coffee vendors selling the beans and crafting expertly brewed cups of coffee.

On Saturday and Sunday mornings, this market is flush with locals buying food for the week. Fresh fruit and veggie stalls are overflowing with incredible finds in as many colours as the rainbow. There are over 500 stalls in total that sprawl over the vast city block-sized marketplace. Towards the back of the market, past the vendors, you’ll find the food court. The food court is as uncomplicated as you can get, but you’ll have the chance to eat a real typical Mexican breakfast. This includes many dishes with eggs, like Huevos Rancheros, eggs in salsa, eggs with chorizo, chilaquiles, and breakfast tacos. Don’t be scared; the food here is fantastic, not everything has to be posh and pristine. The tacos I had from the ladies cooking on the sidewalk right outside the market were honestly the best breakfast tacos I’ve had in my entire life!

Los Amantes Café & Bistro

Los Amantes Café & Bistro in Coyoacan is a little out of the way if you’re staying in the centre city, but WELL worth the effort to get out there. PLUS, I always recommend spending at least a half-day in the beautiful and colourful neighbourhood of Coyoacan so you can make the most of your trip over here. Situated inside a quaint and cozy corner of Coyoacan, Los Amantes cafe is another tribute to talented grandmothers. The chef’s grandmother taught her as a young child all about the virtues of each ingredient and how to mix them to create the perfect harmony of sweet, savoury and sensational!

Their brunch menu is super trendy and primarily consists of different kinds of bread typically served with local fresh fruits, preserves and cheeses—each item complimenting the next. There were so many fruits I didn’t even recognize, and it was a joy to experience the menu without asking any questions until I was finished! It turns out the Mamey fruit is my new favourite treat!

Lardo

Lardo is a beautiful brunch spot in the La Condesa neighbourhood. It’s located inside the old apartment buildings built by THE Condesa that the district is named after. I love how the restaurants are almost hidden away behind the crawling plants that cover the facade of the building. This area of town is so busy on the weekend, and the ambience outside the restaurant is just intoxicating. The menu features hip Mexican-European fusion food, which is as delicious to eat as it is mesmerizing to look at. 

Don’t leave without trying the Fried egg, chile con carne and avocado. The Mexican deconstructed version of avocado toast. My husband is obsessed with their selection of granola, and their baked granola served with red berries, and almond milk is a playful take on cereal. Reservations are recommended at this place since it’s one of the most popular spots in Condesa.

Pastelería Ideal

Pastelería Ideal, located in the heart of the Historic Centre, is a local haunt where you’ll find people clamouring to buy up everything for their sweet tooth! This bakery is so famous that you might have even seen its iconic blue and white pastry boxes all over the city. Many business and cafes buy up their daily pastries from this shop every morning.

The bakery was founded in 1927 and has been opened in this very spot ever since. They have since opened up three other locations, but this is the original. This bakery has everything from traditional Mexican bread and pastries, cakes and cookies to Parisian puff pastry, viennoiseries, and more! All of this is served up on huge platters towering with treats. Just grab a try and use the tongs provided to serve yourself up some pastries. Once you’re done piling up (they make great breakfast pastries, too), take your collection to the counter. There they will pack them up for you and give you a ticket to pay. After you’ve paid, they’ll wrap your baked good, all perfectly wrapped up to go. Enjoy them back at your hotel or over in the famous Alameda Park!

I hope you enjoyed this list of my favourite exciting, hip and delicious brunch spot in Mexico City. Hopefully, you manage to make your way out to visit a few of them on your next trip to Mexico City. Let me know in the comment if you have any other favourite spots that you never skip when visiting CDMX!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Best Breakfast & Brunch Spots in Mexico City [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.