Our previous self-guided walking tour focused primarily on following in the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh. Van Gogh lived and worked here in Arles, and some of his most prolific works of art were made during his time in his yellow house. Featured in many of his paintings were remnants of the ancient Roman ruins of Arles, as they are hard to miss and truly a part of the fabric of this city. And just like this mesmerized Van Gogh a hundred years ago, they fascinate visitors daily. So join us as we travel back in time, long before Van Gogh, to peek into the Roman and Medieval world of Arles.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Walking Tour of Ancient Arles
2. History
3. Admission to Historical Sights
4. How To Get To Arles
5. By Train
6. Alyscamps, the Roman Necropolis
7. Tour des Mourgues
8. Théâtre Antique d'Arles
9. Arles Amphitheatre
10. Rue Voltaire
11. Amédée Pichot fountain
12. The Porte de la Cavalerie
13. Quay Marx Dormoy
14. Thermes de Constantin
15. Musée Réattu
16. Place du Forum
17. Van Gogh Café
18. Cryptoporticus 
19. The Obelisk
20. Church of St. Trophime
21. Cloître Saint-Trophime
22. Jardin Des Arts

Map of Walking Tour of Ancient Arles

History

Arles has a rich and storied history that dates back thousands of years. The Ligurians were the first known people to inhabit this area around 800 BC. In the 2nd century BC, Arles came under Roman rule, and the village flourished with the construction of the canal connecting the Mediterranean Sea to the city. The Romans sought to build huge architectural landmarks that included the Arles Amphitheatre and the Roman Theatre, which were built during this period. Both of which we can still see prominently featured in the city today. 

The Roman Era

During the Roman era of Arles, the city became a vital hub for trade due to its strategic location along the Rhône River, which made facilitating commerce and cultural exchange a breeze. As the city grew, it became the centre of arts and culture in the Roman “Provincias,” a Latin phrase which referred to the territories that the Roman Republic controlled. And where the name Provence came from.

Many Emperors frequently were drawn to the city of Arles. And even would use it as a home base during their military campaigns. Emperor Constantine I, especially favoured the city. Under his rule, the Roman Baths were built in Arles to mirror the Baths of Constantine in Rome. His son Constantine II was born in Arles, and his son Emperor Constantine III went on to declare Arles as the capital of Rome when he moved there in 408!

The Fall of Rome

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Arles continued to hold lots of power over the rest of the South of France. It was still a major center for trade and commerce along the Rhone River. But soon, its prominence was eclipsed by the ever-growing port of Marseilles. Since Marseille was located right along the Medieterran, they could accept larger ships from farther away into their ports. And before long, Arles ceased to hold any real political power. 

Admission to Historical Sights

While many of the Roman ruins can be seen, at least in part, from outside the ticketed area, visiting the interior of many of these sights is well worth the admission fee. You get up close and personal. Explore hidden interiors, and even delve below the city to see the internal structure holding it up today.

The best ticket to buy for our self-guided tour is the Pass Avantage. This gives you access to six monuments and four museums. While that might seem like a lot, it’s mainly the monuments we’re focused on, and the museums are simply a bonus. If you are planning to spend more than one day in Arles, this is great as it will allow you more time to check out the additional museums. The ticket is valid for six months, so if you prefer to split this tour into two days, you can take everything at your own pace.

Pass Avantage Price

Adults 19€ | Reduced 16€ | Free for children under 18 accompanied by a parent. You can buy your Pass Avantage at the first stop on our guided tour.

For the most up-to-date opening hours for each stop on the tour, check this handy guide.

If you don’t want to buy the monuments and instead would rather pick and choose only a few different locations to go inside, I’ve included all the individual entry prices in this post.

How To Get To Arles

By Car

Arles is easily reached by car via the N113 and A54 highways from Marseille or D570 via Avignon.

By Train

If you are staying in towns like Nimes, Avignon or Marseille, you can also opt to take the TER train. These trains run very frequently and are often even quicker than driving! But note that most small Provencal villages around Arles don’t have public transit. So, in that case, driving will be the only option.

Where to Park

One of the best spots to park, where there are lots of spaces, and it’s very central, is at the Parking du Centre. Along the Rue Emile Fassin. I’ve made sure to mark that on the map. Parking costs 2€ an hour. There is also a public washroom kiosk outside this parking lot. But remember, these require a 0.20€ coin to get use. I always make sure to carry some coins as often “public” doesn’t mean “free” in Provence.

How Long is the Walking Tour

I would recommend spending an entire day in Arles. There is much to see and do besides the stops mentioned here on this tour. You’ll want to stop for food, and there are great shopping opportunities all along the colourful and quaint streets. As mentioned above, if you are staying in Arles, you can also split this tour up at your leisure. This means less walking all at once, and it will be a slightly more relaxed few days.

Alyscamps, the Roman Necropolis

Our journey back hundreds of years to ancient Arles begins on the city’s edge. Along what was once the ancient Roman road to Aurelia. Here hides a great Roman cemetery dating back to the 4th century AD. Behind the tall iron gate and under rows of poplar trees, we find the archaic Alyscamps, a Roman Necropolis. 

“Alyscamps” is a corruption of the original Latin name Elisii Camp. In English, we call this the Elysian Fields, which in Greek mythology refers to the afterlife paradise for heroic and virtuous souls. 

History of the Alyscamps

During the Roman Empire, burials were not allowed within the city limits. Therefore, it was commonplace for the roadways leading into cities to be lined with tombs and mausoleums. The cemetery followed the Roman practice of inhumation. Inhumation dates back at least to the Middle Paleolithic period. The oldest form of inhumation was done by hollowing out a trench in the ground and covering the body with rocks and dirt.

But for the Romans, buried their deceased in the ground inside stone tombs or sarcophagi. The burial ground accommodated various social classes, from common citizens to prominent figures of the time. This included everyone from military officers to merchants. Strolling down the main road, you can still see hundreds of these old sarcophagi and tombs lining the ancient Roman road. Stop to look at some of the details which can still be seen on these tombs, which are almost over 2000 years old.

The Saints of the Alyscamp

With the spread of Christianity, the Alyscamps gained even greater significance. This was largely because Saint Genesius was buried here after his beheading and subsequent martyrdom. Saint Trophimus, the first Bishop of Arles, was also buried here. With these high-profile burials, people from all over the country started to want to have the honour of being buried here. The Rhone River became somewhat of a burial highway. Families had their loved ones shipped on boats in from all over Europe to be buried in such a distinguished cemetery. And tombs had to be stacked three layers deep to accommodate the influx.

The Decline of Alyscamps

But in 1152, Saint Trophimus’ relics were moved to the Arles cathedral. This was the start of the end for the Alyscamps. Having lost its most important “resident,” its popularity dried up. And within a hundred years, the site was abandoned, and the tombs were systematically looted. Sarcophagi were given as gifts to distinguished visitors of the city. And many of the gravestones were dismantled to use as building materials. Some sarcophagi were even used as water troughs for cattle.

Van Gogh’s Alyscamps

But the Alyscamps never lost its natural beauty. And during the 19th century, the locals started to use it as a public park. Here they could stroll and remark on the ancient graves still present in the rubble. It was a favourite spot for Van Gogh when he lived in Arles. He even made a point to bring his fellow painting partner Paul Gaughin to the Alyscamps. Here each one made their own interpretation of the site’s picturesque and evocative atmosphere. To learn more about Van Gogh’s time in Arles, read our dedicated Van Gogh-ian Self-Guided Tour of Arles.

The Eglise Saint Honorat

Saint Honorat was Archbishop of Arles in the 3rd century. When he died in 429 AD, his tomb became a prominent pilgrimage site for the early Christians. In the mid-11th century, a Romanesque church was built inside Les Alyscamps and named after him. Much of the old church has fallen into ruins, but the east and west aisles still survive today. As well as the massive lantern tower that dominated the skyline inside.

The building has almost entirely been left to the elements, and yet there are so many aspects of the original architecture that you can study inside. It’s a forgotten treasure, and even without being covered in stained glass and lavish ornamentation, there is such an earnest beauty to this church.

Individual Entry Price for Les Alyscamps: 5€

Tour des Mourgues

Walk northwest along Avenue des Alyscamps. On the northwest corner of Boulevard Emile Combes, you’ll see a great stone wall called the Tour des Mourgues. The Mourgues Tower is the most well-preserved of the circular towers that flanked the city’s defensive ramparts. The tower gets its name from the nearby monastery founded by Bishop Césaire in the 6th century. The monastery was the primary residence of nuns (called morgues in Latin.) Initially, The tower was circular but modified in the 14th to this more octagonal appearance.

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Théâtre Antique d’Arles

Walk along Mnt Vauban street, turning up the Rue de la Calade as it curves around the back of the iconic Roman Theatre. Built in the 1st century BC, this well-preserved theatre was built to accommodate up to 8,000 spectators! The theatre was constructed during the reign of Emperor Augustus. Unlike the Colosseum or Roam Amphitheatre, which were the centre of gladiatorial events, this building served as a venue for various theatrical performances. Much lighter and less violent entertainment for the Roman public to enjoy.

History of the Roman Theatre of Arles

The theatre’s design resembles a Roman amphitheatre which has been cut in half. Rows and rows of tiered seating are wrapped around the stage in a semi-circular shape. The structure is built into the side of a hill, maximizing its acoustics and providing excellent views of the stage from all angles. Originally, the would have been a wooden roof and a large rear wall at the back of the stage. Today, only the orchestra section, seating rows, and two large Corinthian columns survive. Little more than a few pieces of rubble remain of the once impressive rear wall, which would have acted as a theatrical backdrop for the actors.

As a Roman citizen of Provence, you could attend everything from theatrical plays, musical performances, poetry readings, and political and religious gatherings here in the Roman Theatre. Just as theatre is today, this place would have been essential to the town’s social and cultural life.

Like many other ancient Roman structures, the theatre gradually disappeared during the Middle Ages. Over the centuries, parts of the theatre were repurposed for other constructions. The ruins were later rediscovered and excavated during the 19th and 20th centuries.

Today, this theatre is still used for the very same purpose it once was, to host musical and theatrical events. When we visited, they were performing a soundcheck for the concert later that evening. The scaffolding of the lighting rig carefully places around the stone outline of the old stage. It is so nice to see these sites still in use today, rather than simply being a relic of a bygone era.\

Individual Entry Price for Roman Theatre of Arles: 9€

Arles Amphitheatre

Make your way back onto the Rue de la Calade onto the Rue Porte de Laure, which wraps around the giant arches of the majestic Arles Amphitheatre. The Arles Amphitheatre dates back to 90 AD. The Arena was primarily used for hosting various public spectacles and gladiatorial games. This enormous Arena could hold an estimated 20,000 spectators.

Gladiatorial Events

Gladiatorial contests were a central part of Roman entertainment. These events served to entertain and satisfy the masses while also reinforcing the power and authority of the Roman Empire. These battles were thrilling and often brutal spectacles in the Roman amphitheatre. 

Gladiators in Arles were typically slaves, prisoners of war, or condemned criminals who were forced to fight to the death for the audience’s amusement. These fighters were trained in specialized gladiator schools, known as ludi, where they honed their combat skills and developed signature fighting techniques.

The spectacles in Arles included various forms of combat, such as one-on-one duels, group battles, and even confrontations with wild animals like lions and bears. The contests were often organized and sponsored by wealthy individuals or the Roman government to gain popularity and political influence.

As social attitudes changed, the demand for such violent spectacles waned. And by the 5th century AD, the tradition of gladiatorial games in Arles began to fade, and the amphitheatre was eventually repurposed for other activities. 

Amphitheatre in the Middle Ages

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the theatre’s purpose shifted. In the Middle Ages, it was transformed into a fortress to protect the inhabitants of Arles. Four towers were added to either side of the fortress to keep a lookout over the city. Houses, stables, and workshops were built right into the arches of the arena. It was indeed a town within a town, with a square where the arena once stood. There was even a chapel inside. If you look closely at the walls when you enter, you can still see holes where different structural supports were installed to build two-story houses inside the archways.

Arena Layout

Entering this elliptical-shaped amphitheatre, you can really appreciate how this is a masterpiece of Roman engineering and architecture. It measures about 136 meters long and 109 meters wide, and its exterior reaches a height of around 21 meters.

The structure consists of two levels of arches, a grand entrance, and a complex system of corridors, galleries, and staircases that allow easy access for spectators. You can access almost all these areas today with your entry ticket. Allowing you to really get a feel of the entirety of the arena.

The Interior

While the main attractions were gladiatorial contests, other events included mock sea battles, animal hunts, and public executions. Climb to the top of the Arena for the most incredible panoramic views of the city and the surrounding countryside.

Bullfighting

In the 19th century, efforts were made to restore and protect this iconic structure. But instead of hosting Gladitorial events, it was repurposed into a bullfighting arena. Bullfighting in Provence is known as “Course Camarguaise.” It differs from the well-known Spanish-style bullfighting in that the bull is not killed in the theatre. Moreover, the focus is on the agility and daring of the participants rather than inflicting harm on the animal.

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During Course Camarguaise, agile and skilled participants, known as “raseteurs,” attempt to remove small tassels or rosettes attached to the bull’s horns. The raseteurs use a claw-shaped hook called a “raset” to try to grab them. The objective is to demonstrate their bravery and deftness in evading the charging bull while trying to collect as many rosettes as possible. All the while dressed in spectacular costumes that sparkle and shine in the sun and impress a captive audience. Van Gogh himself loved to frequent these events and even captured a vibrant scene in the arena of spectators viewing the bullfighting games.

Individual Entry Price Arles Amphitheatre: 9€

Rue Voltaire

After finishing touring the Amphitheatre, take a walk away along the Rue Voltaire. But sure to look back down the street towards the Amphitheatre as I loved this framed view of it.

The Rue Voltaire is an adorable cobblestone street flanked on all sides by charming shops, crawling ivy, and those classical Provencal brightly painted window shutters. This is the perfect place to grab a bit to eat, as the people-watching opportunities along this road are unmatched. 

Bistrot le Mistral is a great choice for a hyper-local French menu that changes daily. Don’t let the handwritten chalkboard menu scare you away. Chalkboards are the best indication that the food is fresh, as it signals the dishes change with the season or, indeed, with the daily whims of the chef! For such artistic French plating, the prices are very affordable. A must-check out while you’re in town

Amédée Pichot fountain

Returning to the road, stop to admire the incredible Amédée Pichot fountain, found at the intersection of Rue Amédée Pichot and Rue Voltaire. This elegant fountain and accompanying mosaic were built in honour of the 19th-century journalist and writer Amédée Pichot. The installation was a love letter from Pierre-Amédée Pichot to his father. When his father was alive, he purchased a monumental painting from French artist Paul Balze at his salon in Paris. The painting was an allegory of poetry inspired by a painting by Raffaello. Before Amédée Pichot died, he wanted to gift the painting to the people of the city of Arles. So they could enjoy its beauty instead of the painting being cooped up inside his house. But the city couldn’t find an appropriate location, and his dream was abandoned.

After his father died, Pierre-Amédée Pichot was driven to accomplish the goal that his father had abandoned. On a recent visit to Paris, he was inspired by the fountain outside the Place Saint Michel, which stood on the exterior of a large wall. Pierre managed to buy the house on the corner along Rue Voltaire to use its prominent exterior to build this monument. But you can’t simply hang a painting outside in the elements. So instead, he had a great reproduction artist reproduce the painting on enamel ceramic tiles. Now the painting is preserved in enamel and hanging in such a place of honour. Drawing the eyes of all those who pass it by.

The Porte de la Cavalerie

At the end of the Rue Voltaire stands the great Porte de la Cavalerie, also known as the Cavalry Gate. This ancient Roman gate was where people would have entered the city for the first time along the long road to Arles. The enormous, crumbling, stone defensive walls date back to the 3rd century AD. Sturdy stone towers on either side of the arched opening are called the “barbicans.” They were designed to reinforce the gate’s defensive capabilities, allowing guards and soldiers to monitor and defend the entrance effectively.

Quay Marx Dormoy

Walk through the gates and turn west along the Quay Marx Dormoy, which curves around the famous Rhone River. René Marx Dormoy was a French politician. During his tenure as mayor, he played a significant role in French politics and administration, advocating for social reforms and progressive urban development. Dormoy’s commitment to public service and contributions left a lasting impact on the communities he served, and he is given pride of place here in Arles with such a picturesque pathway named after him.

Wander along the riverside walk for a few minutes. Gazing out at the exquisite landscape which wraps around the river. The Rhône River holds immense historical importance to Arles, shaping its identity and playing a pivotal role in its development over the centuries. During the Roman Empire, the river connected Arles to the rest of the Empire. With goods being both imported and exported from this thoroughfare.

Post-Roman Empire, the river continued as a vital trade route connecting the city to the Mediterranean Sea. Goods, such as agricultural produce, textiles, and luxury items, passed through this waterway. Today, the river is no longer a busy port, with huge freight ships landing in Marseille. But you’ll be able to watch dozens of River Cruise boats gently floating on the water, taking in the sights of this majestic waterway.

Starry Night Over the Rhône

One of the most prolific reasons people view this part of the river is to study the inspiration for Vincent Van Gogh’s famous paintings, Starry Night Over the Rhône. His home in Arles, the Yellow House, was just around the corner, and it was right here where he came to immortalize the river forever.

The painting features a starry night sky filled with a vibrant and swirling mix of blues and yellows. The brushstrokes are bold and expressive, making the scene almost turbulent. The stars appear to twinkle and dance across the canvas. Hidden in the bottom right corner, we can see a couple taking a leisurely stroll along the riverbank. Just like we are doing today!

Thermes de Constantin

A small staircase leads you down away from the Quay towards the Rue du Grand Prieuré. As you make your way down, you are met with a large curved brick wall. This is the exterior of the great Thermes de Constantin. The Thermes de Constantin, also known as the Baths of Constantine, is an ancient Roman bath house.

Built in the 4th century AD, the Thermes de Constantin was named in honour of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great. When we hear the word “bath” today, we think of a small, plastic or enamel tub meant for one person. But during the Roman Empire, public baths were an enormous structure where dozens, if not hundreds, of people could come together. Bathing back then was not just to maintain your personal hygiene, but it was also great. For Romans, bathhouses were a social and cultural center where people from all walks of life would gather, relax, and socialize.

Using a Roman Bath House

Roman baths were grand, impressive structures. Stepping inside, you can walk around the space on raised platforms to really appreciate the grandeur of the building. While most of the decoration has been lost to time, imagine for yourself as you walk through the now-barren interior with stunning mosaic decorations and intricate marble sculptures. These were all meant to showcase the opulence and grandeur of Rome. The walls would have been adorned with frescoes depicting scenes from mythology, everyday life, and the glories of the Roman Empire.

Visitors would enter through an imposing entrance hall known as the frigidarium, which led to a series of interconnected rooms offering different temperature baths. These rooms included the tepidarium (warm room) and the caldarium (hot room), equipped with underfloor heating systems known as hypocausts. You can still see several of these underfloor heating systems today; look for the signs that point it out.

Roman baths were not only for physical relaxation but also hubs for intellectual and cultural exchange. Philosophical discussions, debates, and other social interactions would occur within these spaces.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 5€

Musée Réattu

Leaving the Roman Baths, you can opt to visit the Musée Réattu just down the street. Entry to the Musée Réattu is included in the Pass Avantage. If you’re not an avid art fan, you can skip this stop. But the museum is very small, so even if you just want to peek inside to see a few pieces, you won’t spend very much time inside.

The Musée Réattu is housed in a former 15th-century priory. Exploring some of the historic parts of the building is one of the best reasons to stop here. The museum primarily showcases the world of Jacques Réattu, an influential French artist who was born in Arles. Réattu’s artistic journey took him from his hometown to the vibrant Paris art scene. It was in Paris that he gained recognition for his exceptional painting. But he never forgot about his beloved home of Arles. While Van Gogh might be the biggest name to have worked in Arles, Réattu is the homegrown pride of the city.

Réattu’s artistic repertoire encompassed various subjects, from historical and mythological themes. His works often exhibited a harmonious blend of classicism and romanticism, with a keen attention to detail and a deep understanding of human emotions.

Picasso’s Arlesienne

Also included in the museum’s collection is a series of eight portraits painted by Picasso of his muse Jacqueline Roque, dressed as an Arlesienne. The term “Arlesienne” was often used to describe the traditional costume worn by women in the Arles region in the 19th century. This traditional dress typically includes a white or light-coloured blouse, a full black skirt, and an elaborate, intricately embroidered black velvet bodice. The outfit is completed with a headdress adorned with ribbons and flowers, which vary depending on the occasion. The Arlesienne has become an enduring symbol of Provencal and was also frequently painted by Gaugin and Van Gogh.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 8€

Place du Forum

From the museum, let’s meander down toward the Place du Forum. Turn left onto Rue Dominique Maisto, then right onto Rue du Sauvage, leading into Rue de la Place. The Place du Forum is a picturesque, vibrant square steeped in history and surrounded by charming cafes and shops.

The Place du Forum is named after the Roman Forum that once stood a few blocks away. Today, remnants of the ancient Roman city can still be seen embedded into the walls of the square. Look closely at the building on the corner, now the Nord-Pinus Hotel. You can see it embedded in the hotel are two Roman Corinthian columns. These tall columns once supported a Roman temple that occupied this space. 

A Corinthian column can be recognized immediately by its elaborate capitals decorated in acanthus leaves arranged in a spiral pattern, surrounding a central bell-shaped element called the “abacus.” 

Van Gogh Café

At the heart of the Place du Forum stands the iconic Le Cafe La Nuit. Better known as the Van Gogh Café. This café features a bright yellow facade, believed to be the same café that inspired Van Gogh’s famous artwork, “Café Terrace at Night.”

While the cafe might stand in the same spot as the original cafe from the painting, the ownership has changed hands many times. And today, the cafe sadly has a poor reupitation as a tourist trap. If you want to stop for an aperitif, consider L’Apostrophe Restaurant two doors down instead. If you can snag a spot outside, you have a beautiful view of the Yellow Cafe without the tourist trap prices and poor-quality food and service. After all this walking, you’ll definitely have deserved a sweet aperitif.

Cryptoporticus 

Continue your journey towards the Cryptoporticus of the Roman Forum. This spot is just a few blocks from the Place du Forum. You must enter the old Town Hall of Arles to get inside. Once inside, you’ll find the entrance to the underground passageway. 

The Cryptoportiques d’Arles, also known as the Arles Cryptoporticus, dates back to the 1st century BC. These underground vaults were constructed to serve various functions, including supporting the enormous Roman Forum above. The Cryptoportiques consist of a network of underground galleries and corridors. These galleries are supported by a series of arches and pillars, characteristic of Roman architectural engineering. The ceilings of the passageways are vaulted, allowing for the even distribution of weight and enhancing the structure’s stability. Walking around in the dark, you feel like you’ve entered a labyrinth, and perhaps a minotaur lurks around the next corner…

The walls and pillars of the Cryptoportiques were made using locally sourced stone, primarily limestone and sandstone. The choice of these durable materials contributed to the fact that this part of Roman Arles has been so pristinely preserved today. Since the temperature was much cooler in these underground passages, the Cryptoportiques were also employed as storage space.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 5€

The Obelisk

After returning to street level, head out the doors from the city hall, which leads onto the Place de la République, the heart of the historic city center. Standing in the centre of the square is the monumental Obélisque d’Arles. The Obélisque d’Arles is one of the oldest surviving Roman obelisks in France. Standing approximately 15 meters (about 49 feet) in height. The Obelisk is made of reddish-pink granite, not native to France. This means that the Obelisk would have been brought in as far as Asian Minor in the region of Troy.

This majestic Obelisk dates back to the 4th century AD, although when it was first installed in the city, it stood in the centre of the Roman circus. A Roman circus, also known as “circus maximus” in Latin, was a large, elongated, and open-air venue used primarily for chariot racing, one of ancient Rome’s most popular and thrilling forms of entertainment. 

When the Roman circus was demolished, the Obelisk collapsed or was knocked down. Breaking it into two different parts. It wasn’t until 1389 that the Obelisk was discovered and brought into the Amphitheatre to be displayed. In 1676, Louis XIV decreed it should be moved into the town square. And four engravings dedicated to the glory of Louis XIV were added. The decorative base was added in the 19th century, along with the fountain’s basin and surrounding bronze lion head water spouts.

Church of St. Trophime

On the east side of the town square stands the great Church of St. Trophime.  While the majority of the church we see today was completed in the 12th century, such an extraordinary structure took time to complete, and there are elements from the 11th century and even earlier still to be found throughout.

The church is named for Saint Trophimus, one of the early Christian saints and the first bishop of Arles. Originally the church was named Saint Stephen, but in 972, the relics of Saint Trophimus were reinterred, and the church was renamed in his honour.

Its exterior facade, adorned with exquisite Romanesque carvings, is a magnificent example of medieval artistry and storytelling through art. Back in the medieval era, peasants were barely literate. Communicating these religious ideas and stories through art and imagery was paramount.

The Portal

The elaborate portal, known as the “Portal of the Last Judgment,” is the doorway through which visitors have entered the church for hundreds of years. For our purposes on this tour of Roman art and architecture in Arles, you should note how the archway leading into the church is reminiscent of a Roman triumphal arch.

The Tympanum

In the semi-circle above the doorway is the tympanum. Here we can see the image of Christ, seated, holding the Bible on his knees. On either side of him are found animals representing the four evangelists. The winged lion for Saint Mark, an angel for Saint Matthew, an eagle for Saint John and a winged bull for Saint Luke. Surrounding the archivolt (a moulding that frames the arch) is a choir of angels with vivid expressions; you can hear them singing.

Lintels and Pilasters

The lintel, the band of stone that runs under the tympanum, depicts the souls of the dead in a The souls on the left are dressed in fine garb procession bound for judgement. The souls on the left (the righteous) march towards the centre, led by an angel with outstretched wings towards the twelve apostles. They are seated in the centre, holding a book on their knees, ready for judgment. On the right, we have the souls of the damned, who have been turned away as they walk naked and chained toward their doom.

The pilasters that support the lintel are also very interesting, and it’s worth studying the intricate carvings on their base. Evil beasts and monsters torment the souls of the damned. And the huge face of Samson’s slain lion is almost wrapped around the base of the column. These tormented scenes are contrasted above, with the column capitals covered in various decorative elements like acanthus leaves, foliage, and vegetal motifs, almost like they depict heaven and hell throughout this imagery.

Outer Frieze

A frieze behind the pilasters depicts the major saints of the Church, including Saint Stephen and Saint Trophime. You can spot Saint Trophime on the left dressed in his episcopal costume holding a curved cane, a Crozier, in his hand. He is also seen being crowned two angles.

If you look closely, there is a secondary frieze above the apostles which illustrates the childhood of Christ. Starting with the Annunciation made to Mary, the dream of Joseph into the Massacre of the Innocents and the Flight to Egypt and finally, the Nativity.

Interior

Entry into the church’s interior is free, but the St. Trophime Cloisers, located next door, require an admission fee. Thankfully if you purchased the Pass Avantage, this is included in your pass. We will explore the cloisters after briefly walking through the church’s interior.

Aubusson Tapestries

Entering the church, we can tell right away that this is a romanesque construction. The columns are thick and rudimentary. Lacking the lightness of many later gothic churches. There is a heavy atmosphere inside. The stoney interior of the church is lacking in carved decorations. Several side chapels were rebuilt during the Gothic periods, as these are doubtlessly the most elaborate designs inside the church. To add some interest to the austere church, tapestries were hung on the blank walls. These date back to the 17th century and illustrate scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.

Early Christian sarcophagi

Throughout the church, see if you can spot the three early Christian sarcophagi that were brought to the church from their original resting place in Les Alsycamps. Unlike the remaining tombs in Les Alsycamps, these sarcophagi are covered in complicated and precise carvings. They almost appear architectural in their design, comprising arches, pilasters and niches that frame tiny figures representing various biblical stories. The earliest of these tombs dates to the 4th century, although they only made this church their resting place in the 19th century.

Chapel of Saint-Genès

Make a point to stop at the chapel of Saint-Genès to the north of the transept. This is where one of the old sarcophagi is held and where you can find a beautiful white marble statue of the Virgin Mary. This statue was originally placed in the Saint-Honorat-des-Alyscamps and is a great example of the beautiful decorations that would have once adorned the church we saw at the start of this tour.

Reliquary chapel

My favourite part of the church is the reliquary chapel. Hidden behind a filagree wrought-iron gate, under a blue-painted ceiling with stars dotting the sky, are dozens of golden reliquaries. A reliquary is a container to house and display relics, which are objects or remains believed to have a special connection to a saint or religious figure. These reliquaries are stunning works of art all on their own. The most important of these reliquaries is that of Saint Trophimus, patron of the church. But you can also see reliquary for Saint Stephen, Saint Anne, and even the Mother of Mary.

Cloître Saint-Trophime

Exiting the church, walk back onto the square and pass through the Palais de l’Archevêché. This leads you into an interior courtyard where you’ll find the entrance to the Cloître Saint-Trophime. Initially, the church would have been connected to these cloisters, but since the cloisters now require a ticketed entry, this side entrance was constructed to filter guests into the building here. Walking through this courtyard, be sure to admire the exquisite vantage point you have here to gaze up at the old Romanesque church tower.

History of Cloître Saint-Trophime

The Cloître Saint-Trophime was built during the 12th and 13th centuries. It served as the monastery’s private quarters for the canons of Saint-Trophime. It was a place for them to gather for prayer, contemplation, and meditation. Providing a quiet and peaceful sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Surrounding the cloisters are a dormitory, refectory and dining hall were also built where the canons could continue their private life outside the church. But just as these buildings were being constructed, the Counts of Provence moved from Arles to Aix and much of the wealth that the city had been used to dissipated.

Another big hit to the continued construction of the Cloisters was in 1348 when the Black Death came to Provence, vastly reducing the population of almost every infected. When the canons filled the cloister, these buildings became granaries and storehouses for food. As such, when you visit the dormitory, refectory and dining hall interiors, you’ll notice a difference in the style of these buildings.

The highlight of the cloister is its exquisite arcades adorned with elaborately sculpted capitals. These capitals depict various biblical scenes and religious figures. Each is intricately carved with meticulous detail.

Interior Courtyard

West Gallery

You enter through the gallery’s west portions into a space built around 1375. The southern and western galleries, built later in the construction of the cloisters, are Gothic, whereas the north and east galleries are Romasnaques.

The images on the columns here are devoted to religious figures and scenes popular in Provence. You” find the story of Samson slaying the lion, the stoning of St. Stephen, Mary Magdalene kissing Christ’s feet and the Coronation of the Virgin.

North Gallery

Each section of the cloisters is divided into the north, south, east and west galleries. The North Gallery’s main themes you can keep your eyes looking to spot as you stroll through the cloister. This is the resurrection of Christ and the glorification of the patron saints of the city, Saint Trophime and Saint Stephen.

Saint Trophime

To find Saint Trophime, head to the northwest corner of the cloisters. He stands with his right palm facing the viewer while the left holds onto his curved crook, although the top of the cane has since been broken off and lost to history. On his right and left, respectively, are Saint Peter and Saint John. Saint Peter sent Saint Trophime to Gaul, now modern-day France, to evangelize the people there and become Archbishop of Arles.

Above the doorways, you can make out the coat of arms carved onto the lintel. This image represents the coat of arms of Arles. You can see an eagle with spread wings wide; this symbolized the Holy Roman Emperor, who at the time ruled Arles.

Eastern Gallery

The eastern gallery columns focus on the passion of Christ. Throughout the carvings, you can see the Christ being flogged bare-chested while tied to a column. Judas is also widely represented here, carrying the purse of coins given to Judas in exchange for his betrayal and that fateful kiss. We also can spot scenes from the last supper.

South Gallery

The south gallery features columns telling how Saint Trophime became a saint. You can see depictions of St. Trophime and Christ himself blessing the Alyscamps, the miracles they performed, and even how they brought a knight back to life! See if you can spot the scene of falsely accursed men being hanged on the gibbet who were saved by Saint Trophime. And faced with this miracle, King Charlemagne was forced to set them free.

Be sure to take a walk inside the old stone dormitory building. Despite being completely empty, it’s worth entering to admire the ethereal glow of the tiny yet intricately painted, stained glass window that cast a golden glow into the room.

Heading to the second level, you can walk around the upper deck, which wraps around the lower level’s courtyard. From this vantage point, you have a stunning view of the cloisters below and an exquisite view of the old Romanesque Bell tower of the adjoining church.

Individual Entry Price the Cloisters: 6€

Jardin Des Arts

The cloisters are where we end the historical walking tour of Arles. But if you’re in search of the perfect on-theme place to enjoy a final meal in Arles, make your way to the Jardin Des Arts restaurant. This restaurant is located inside a 13th-century cloister. The Order of the Trinitarians founded their church here in 1198. And built a beautiful cloister and gardens where they lived and worked.

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During the Revolution, the property was abandoned and partially destroyed. All that remained was the nave and some parts of the old cloister galleries. Thanks to the restaurant’s efforts, many remaining spaces have been restored and transformed into stunning restaurants. You can eat inside below the old vaults or outside on their charming outdoor terrace, where you can relax amongst the beautiful greenery. The menu features some classic French dishes, but if you’ve never tried Daube, this is a wonderful place to try this Provencal classic.

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As you drive back to your home base or enjoy your dinner on the terrace, I hope you reflect on the wonderful journey we have taken into the ancient past of Arles. Hopefully, this tour allowed you to imagine yourself in the fascinating world of gladiators, emperors, and Roman antiquities. And that you leave Arles with a new sense of appreciation for all the people of this city who have helped preserve their past for generations to come.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Historical Walking Tour of Ancient Arles first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. The Lavender Route Regions
2. When to see the Lavender Route in Provence
   • Luberon Valley
   • Valensole Plateau
   • Pays de Sault
3. The History of Lavender in Provence
4. Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route
   • Field Etiquette
   • What to Wear & What to Bring
   • Renting a Car
     • Rules of the Road
   • Parking
   • Photography Tips
   • Going By Guided Tour
5. Provencal Lavender Varieties 

The Lavender Route Regions

Three different regions around Provence are known for their lavender-producing fields. These are the Valensole Plateau, Pays de Sault and the Luberon Valley. I always choose one area to make a day out to discover the magic of the magnificent lavender fields in Provence. Focusing on one specific region allows you to explore it to the fullest. Discover hidden corners and stop to relax and soak in the scenery.

When to see the Lavender Route in Provence

The exact timing of the lavender bloom can vary slightly from year to year. Depending on weather conditions and other factors. It is always a good idea to check with local sources, such as local lavender farms or tourist information centers in the area, for the most up-to-date information on the lavender bloom.

Luberon Valley

The Lavender in the Luberon Valley is the first to bloom from June to early July. The exact timing of the lavender bloom can vary slightly from year to year, depending on weather conditions and other factors. It is always a good idea to check with local sources, such as local lavender farms or tourist information centers in the area, for the most up-to-date information on the lavender bloom in the Luberon Valley.

Valensole Plateau

Because the Valensole Plateau is about 500 m above sea level, the lavender in this region typically blooms from mid-June to mid-July. However, it’s important to note that exact blooming times can vary slightly depending on weather conditions throughout the year. In 2023 there was a larger amount of rainfall in the area, delaying the blooms.

Pays de Sault

The Lavender in the Pays de Sault is the last to bloom during the summer lavender season. This is due to its high elevation. Generally, you can expect the lavender to begin to bloom in late July into August. But thanks to the Sault Lavender Festival, which takes place on August 15th, the stalks of lavender are never cut down before this date. A big part of the festival is the harvest competition. Locals compete against each other to collect the lavender using the original method of harvesting, which employs a sickle to cut down the stalks.

The History of Lavender in Provence

“Lavender” comes from the Latin “lavare,” meaning washing. Since ancient Antiquity, the Romans knew how powerful the lavender plant was. They used it for its medicinal properties and aromatic qualities, and especially for washing. But Lavender is not native to Provence. It was brought to the countryside by the Romans. The Romans knew that Provence’s dry, sunny climate and well-drained soils would be ideal for lavender growth. In the Middle Ages, lavender cultivation in Provence was primarily undertaken by monastic communities. Monks recognized the value of lavender for its therapeutic uses and began growing it in monastery gardens.

Over time, the cultivation of lavender expanded beyond monasteries. Farmers and locals started cultivating lavender on a larger scale. In the 19th century, the demand for lavender products, such as essential oil, perfume, and soaps, increased domestically and internationally. And lavender became one of the most important agricultural exports for the region. Distillation techniques improved, allowing for efficient processing of lavender crops. Today, lavender fields in Provence are an iconic symbol of the region, attracting tourists from all over the world.

Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route

Field Etiquette

Before entering lavender fields, remember to respect the farmers’ hard work and follow any posted guidelines. If there are any roped-off areas, avoid entering. They are there for a reason. But with so many different fields to visit, you will always find somewhere you can walk right into the fields to get those sprawling views. Remember to avoid stepping on the plants at all costs. This is how these farmers make a living, and you would hate to be responsible for damaging their crops.

Always be sure to walk only down the rows of lavender and not over them. And never pick the flowers. There are so many places around Provence to buy very inexpensive stalks of lavender; there is no need to pick them yourself in case you damage the plant by doing so. Plus, stalks of lavender must be dried to be preserved, so best to buy them after they have been left to dry.

What to Wear & What to Bring

During the summer, when the lavender blooms in Provence, it can be impossibly hot. So be sure to wear plenty of sunscreens and always bring a large, wide-brimmed hat to ensure you aren’t directly exposed to the sun. Especially in the fields, there is no shade to escape under, so you will always be in direct sunlight. As you walk around in the lavender fields, wear some sensible shoes. Sneakers or comfortable sandals are the best options for footwear.

Bring a nice, thick picnic blanket with you if you want to have a little picnic along the way. Most fields don’t have super soft ground, so having a good, thick base to sit on is a great idea to ensure you’re comfortable. Also, bring everything you’ll need for the picnic, from food and drinks to cutlery and napkins. And always make sure to leave your picnic spot exactly how you found it and bring all your garbage home with you. Be sure you bring plenty of water, more than you’ll think you need, for long days out in the sun.

Renting a Car

To make the most of this photographic region of Provence, you’ll want to rent a car to get around. It’s advisable to book your rental car in advance, especially during peak travel seasons. When picking a rental car for your travels in Provence, I always air on the smaller side. Smaller cars are ideal for navigating narrow village streets. And some roads in Provence you might think are one lane only, but before you know it, you’ll discover they aren’t. And the smaller your car, the easier it is to scoot by. Just be sure to pack lightly to ensure you can fit all your luggage into the car.

Rules of the Road

Be sure to familiarize yourself with France’s road rules and driving customs. In France, you drive on the right side of the road. And remember that priority is given to vehicles coming from the right at intersections without traffic lights or signs. The roads in Provence have very strict speed limits. And there are hidden speed cameras even in small villages and dirty roads. And these speed cameras will fine you for going even 10km over the limit! These fines will be mailed to you back home, so there is so escaping them after your trip. So you should always keep an eye on these speed limits. Some cars come with a GPS system that will alert you to the change in speed limits. Or use Waze to help you get an alert when a speed camera is in effect.

Parking

Before stopping your car to get out and explore the fields, you’ll want to do so safely. You don’t want to stop your car in the middle of the road and block oncoming traffic. Trust me; there are many places to stop, so if you think you’re missing an opportunity, another will come any minute. Many lavender fields have come to expect tourists these days. And there will often be a patch of dirt where you can park your car, off to the side of the road, near the fields. Never ever park or drive your car right into the lavender plants field.

Lots of the lavender producers and shops have parking lots out front. You can explore the shops and then head back to see the fields beyond. When in villages, there are both free and paid parking options. Pay attention to parking signs to avoid any fines or penalties.

Photography Tips

You have to expect to see a lot of people during the summer months. But arriving early in the morning or right at sunset will ensure you get as much of the field to yourself as possible. And remember, if you just turn your camera this way or that, it’s easy enough to get a shot without other people in it. Be kind to those around you; everyone is there for the same reason.

Going By Guided Tour

While renting a car and going at your own pace is always my recommendation, if you don’t want to drive yourself and instead just want to relax and be led by a guide, you have plenty of options. These guided tours stop off at producers and fields and combine your day trip with a visit to a famous neighbouring village.

Provencal Lavender Varieties 

When it comes to lavender, there are over 30 different species. But the two most popular you’ll find in Provence are Fine Lavender and Lavandine. While they both belong to the Lavandula genus, there are distinct differences in the characteristics, aroma, and cultivation of each plant.

Fine lavender (or Lavandula angustifolia) typically grows in compact, bushy formations, reaching around two-three feet. It showcases slender, linear leaves with a gray-green hue. Its slender and elongated flowers form tight spikes at the top of the stems. The blossoms display a lovely lavender-purple colour. This flower offers a delicate, sweet, and floral fragrance. Its scent is often soothing, calming, and reminiscent of the quintessential lavender aroma.

Lavandine (or Lavandula x intermedia) is a much larger plant, often growing up to three-four feet tall. Its flowers are shorter and fuller than Fine Lavender, forming dense and rounded flower spikes. The colour of the blossoms can range from lavender-purple to bluish-purple. Lavandine exhibits a more intense fragrance compared to Fine Lavender. Its scent carries a sharper, medicinal note with hints of camphor (woody scent), making it suitable for various aromatherapy applications. Lavandine also typically blooms a bit later than Fine Lavender.

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of the Lavender Routes in Provence first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Three different regions around Provence are known for their lavender-producing fields. These are the Valensole Plateau, Pays de Sault and the Luberon Valley. I always choose one area to make a day out to discover the magic of the magnificent lavender fields in Provence. Focusing on one specific region allows you to explore it to the fullest. Discover hidden corners and stop to relax and soak in the scenery. So today, let’s dive (or drive) into the fields around the Luberon Valley.

Table Of Contents

1. Luberon Valley Lavender Route Map
2. About the Luberon Valley
3. The History of Lavender in Provence
4. When to see the Lavender Route in Provence
5. Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route
6. Provencal Lavender Varieties 
7. Start your Tour along the Luberon Lavender Route at the Musée de la Lavande
8. Gordes Lookout Parking
9. Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque
10. Stop for a Visit in Gordes
11. Explore the D2 Roads and their Lavender Field
12. Check out the Ochre Streets of Roussillon
13. Step on the Roman Roads along the Pont Julien
14. D36 & the Lavender House
15. Explore the Steeped Magic of Bonnieux
16. Les Agnels Lavender Distillery
17. Discover Roman Candied Fruits in Apt
18. View of Saignon from the D48
19. Wander the Flower Street of Saignon
20. Le Petit Cabanon Aux Lavandes

Luberon Valley Lavender Route Map

How Long Does this Route Take?

The Luberon Lavender Route is a day-long self-guided road trip. It leads you across the Luberon from east to west, stopping in some of the most picturesque villages. While you might be able to speed through each stop, the Luberon and Provence in generally a place for taking things slow. Letting the atmosphere of this place seep in as you just cruise along, admiring the fantastical views out your window. And, of course, stopping for a glass of wine with views of the lavender fields along the way. This tour is a great way to explore many of Provence’s iconic villages and the stunning lavender landscapes.

About the Luberon Valley

Nestled in the heart of Provence, the enchanting Luberon Valley captivates all who enter its borders. With its stunning medieval villages and breathtaking landscapes, there is no escaping the spell this place weaves all around you. Cradled between the Vaucluse and Alpes-de-Haute-Provence is the great Luberon Massif. The Luberon Massif is a series of limestone hills forming the backbone of the valley, creating its captivating backdrop. These hills are adorned with lush greenery, fragrant lavender fields, and vineyards, creating a patchwork of colours that change with the seasons. But no doubt the most magical of these seasons is the summer when the fields are awash with purple flowers from the blooming lavender.

The History of Lavender in Provence

“Lavender” comes from the Latin “lavare,” meaning washing. Since ancient Antiquity, the Romans knew how powerful the lavender plant was. They used it for its medicinal properties and aromatic qualities, and especially for washing. But Lavender is not native to Provence. It was brought to the countryside by the Romans. The Romans knew that Provence’s dry, sunny climate and well-drained soils would be ideal for lavender growth. In the Middle Ages, lavender cultivation in Provence was primarily undertaken by monastic communities. Monks recognized the value of lavender for its therapeutic uses and began growing it in monastery gardens.

Over time, the cultivation of lavender expanded beyond monasteries. Farmers and locals started cultivating lavender on a larger scale. In the 19th century, the demand for lavender products, such as essential oil, perfume, and soaps, increased domestically and internationally. And lavender became one of the most important agricultural exports for the region. Distillation techniques improved, allowing for efficient processing of lavender crops. Today, lavender fields in Provence are an iconic symbol of the region, attracting tourists from all over the world.

When to see the Lavender Route in Provence

The Lavender in the Luberon Valley is the first to bloom from June to early July. The exact timing of the lavender bloom can vary slightly from year to year, depending on weather conditions and other factors. It is always a good idea to check with local sources, such as local lavender farms or tourist information centers in the area, for the most up-to-date information on the lavender bloom in the Luberon Valley.

If you book your trip well in advance and the weather isn’t behaving, and you arrive too late to see the blooms in the Luberon, you can always drive further up towards the Valensole Plateau. Or even higher up in the Pays de Sault to see the lavender fields there. These bloom slightly later in the seasons due to their high elevation.

Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route

Field Etiquette

Before entering lavender fields, remember to respect the farmers’ hard work and follow any posted guidelines. If there are any roped-off areas, avoid entering. They are there for a reason. But with so many different fields to visit, you will always find somewhere you can walk right into the fields to get those sprawling views. Remember to avoid stepping on the plants at all costs. This is how these farmers make a living, and you would hate to be responsible for damaging their crops.

Always be sure to walk only down the rows of lavender and not over them. And never pick the flowers. There are so many places around Provence to buy very inexpensive stalks of lavender; there is no need to pick them yourself in case you damage the plant by doing so. Plus, stalks of lavender must be dried to be preserved, so best to buy them after they have been left to dry.

What to Wear & What to Bring

During the summer, when the lavender blooms in Provence, it can be impossibly hot. So be sure to wear plenty of sunscreens and always bring a large, wide-brimmed hat to ensure you aren’t directly exposed to the sun. Especially in the fields, there is no shade to escape under, so you will always be in direct sunlight. As you walk around in the lavender fields, wear some sensible shoes. Sneakers or comfortable sandals are the best options for footwear.

Bring a nice, thick picnic blanket with you if you want to have a little picnic along the way. Most fields don’t have super soft ground, so having a good, thick base to sit on is a great idea to ensure you’re comfortable. Also, bring everything you’ll need for the picnic, from food and drinks to cutlery and napkins. And always make sure to leave your picnic spot exactly how you found it and bring all your garbage home with you. Be sure you bring plenty of water, more than you’ll think you need, for long days out in the sun.

Renting a Car

To make the most of this photographic region of Provence, you’ll want to rent a car to get around. It’s advisable to book your rental car in advance, especially during peak travel seasons. When picking a rental car for your travels in Provence, I always air on the smaller side. Smaller cars are ideal for navigating narrow village streets. And some roads in Provence you might think are one lane only, but before you know it, you’ll discover they aren’t. And the smaller your car, the easier it is to scoot by. Just be sure to pack lightly to ensure you can fit all your luggage into the car.

Rules of the Road

Be sure to familiarize yourself with France’s road rules and driving customs. In France, you drive on the right side of the road. And remember that priority is given to vehicles coming from the right at intersections without traffic lights or signs. The roads in Provence have very strict speed limits. And there are hidden speed cameras even in small villages and dirty roads. And these speed cameras will fine you for going even 10km over the limit! These fines will be mailed to you back home, so there is so escaping them after your trip. So you should always keep an eye on these speed limits. Some cars come with a GPS system that will alert you to the change in speed limits. Or use Waze to help you get an alert when a speed camera is in effect.

Parking

Before stopping your car to get out and explore the fields, you’ll want to do so safely. You don’t want to stop your car in the middle of the road and block oncoming traffic. Trust me; there are many places to stop, so if you think you’re missing an opportunity, another will come any minute. Many lavender fields have come to expect tourists these days. And there will often be a patch of dirt where you can park your car, off to the side of the road, near the fields. Never ever park or drive your car right into the lavender plants field.

Lots of the lavender producers and shops have parking lots out front. You can explore the shops and then head back to see the fields beyond. When in villages, there are both free and paid parking options. Pay attention to parking signs to avoid any fines or penalties.

Photography Tips

You have to expect to see a lot of people during the summer months. But arriving early in the morning or right at sunset will ensure you get as much of the field to yourself as possible. And remember, if you just turn your camera this way or that, it’s easy enough to get a shot without other people in it. Be kind to those around you; everyone is there for the same reason.

Going By Guided Tour

While renting a car and going at your own pace is always my recommendation, if you don’t want to drive yourself and instead just want to relax and be led by a guide, you have plenty of options. These guided tours stop off at producers and fields and combine your day trip with a visit to famous neighbouring villages like Gordes and Roussillon.

Provencal Lavender Varieties 

When it comes to lavender, there are over 30 different species. But the two most popular you’ll find in Provence are Fine Lavender and Lavandine. While they both belong to the Lavandula genus, there are distinct differences in the characteristics, aroma, and cultivation of each plant.

Fine lavender (or Lavandula angustifolia) typically grows in compact, bushy formations, reaching around two-three feet. It showcases slender, linear leaves with a gray-green hue. Its slender and elongated flowers form tight spikes at the top of the stems. The blossoms display a lovely lavender-purple colour. This flower offers a delicate, sweet, and floral fragrance. Its scent is often soothing, calming, and reminiscent of the quintessential lavender aroma.

Lavandine (or Lavandula x intermedia) is a much larger plant, often growing up to three-four feet tall. Its flowers are shorter and fuller than Fine Lavender, forming dense and rounded flower spikes. The colour of the blossoms can range from lavender-purple to bluish-purple. Lavandine exhibits a more intense fragrance compared to Fine Lavender. Its scent carries a sharper, medicinal note with hints of camphor (woody scent), making it suitable for various aromatherapy applications. Lavandine also typically blooms a bit later than Fine Lavender.

Start your Tour along the Luberon Lavender Route at the Musée de la Lavande

One of the best places to start your journey along the Luberon Lavender Route is at the Musée de la Lavande. This delightful and immersive museum allows you to explore Provence’s rich history of cultivating and producing lavender and lavender products. The museum is nestled in the picturesque countryside, just outside the town of Coustellet (which has an incredible Sunday morning market FYI.) The small building is submerged in rolling fields of lavender, creating a serene and idyllic setting right off the start. Just by walking up to its doors, you are greeted by the enchanting aroma of lavender that fills the air. 

Inside the museum, you can learn more about the history of lavender cultivation, its origins, various uses throughout the centuries, and the traditional harvesting and distillation methods. My favourite part of the museum had to be its collection of vintage ephemera and antique perfume bottles. If you’re someone who loves history and beautiful things, this is worth checking out!

Hours & Admission

Hours: Open every day in the summer from 10 am – 6 pm
Tradition & Heritage Tour with Audio Guide Admission: Adults €8 | Student €7 | Children (11-16) €4 | Children under 10 are free

Gordes Lookout Parking

From the museum, we take off on the D2 highway. When you reach the turn-off towards the D15, watch for the Gordes Lookout Point Parking lot. From this easy-to-reach spot, you have the most incredible view over the valley and across to the historic town of Gordes. We will have a chance to enter Gordes later on in the tour, but there is nowhere to get this view of the perched village. It seemed to reach up into the sky, like a multi-tiered wedding cake or something out of the Lord of the Rings! This spot is not to be missed.

Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque

Probably the most photographed lavender field in Provence is the fields surrounding the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque. The Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque is a breathtaking Cistercian abbey that has stood in this same spot for centuries. Surrounded by rolling hills and fields of lavender, one is immediately struck by its striking silhouette. The Abbey’s stone walls rise majestically against lush greenery and purple blooms, evoking a sense of serenity and timelessness. Whether you arrive simply to gaze at the scenery or enter the Abbey itself, please remember that this is a functional monastic order. Where monks come to pray and work. So please be respectful when exploring the grounds.

Entering the Abbey

Walking through the Abbey’s iron gates, visitors are greeted by a tranquil courtyard adorned with vibrant flower beds and meticulously manicured gardens. The scent of lavender fills the air, adding a touch of aromatic magnificence to the surroundings. The Abbey’s peaceful atmosphere invites contemplation and reflection, an essential part of the monastic order. And for us visitors, it provides a respite from the fast pace of our modern life.

The simple yet elegant Romanesque architecture dates back to the 12th century. To enter the monastery, you do need to pay an admission fee. But if you come here to admire the beauty of the lavender fields, it’s only right to give back to the order to help them maintain these gardens for years to come. So I would highly recommending heading inside.

Interior

Inside, the interior reveals the austere yet captivating beauty of the Cistercian order. The Abbey’s church features a simple yet graceful vaulted ceiling adorned with delicate stone carvings. Windows allow soft rays of sunlight to filter through, casting that eternal glow on the cold stone floors. The stillness and reverence of the Abbey create a sense of awe in all those who enter.

But the most impressive part of the interior is the cloisters. A cloister is an enclosed courtyard surrounded by four galleries, each featuring twelve arches leading to an ornamental garden. Ae sure to study the elegant flora motifs that decorate the garden’s columns. Although the rest of the design of the Abbey is rather austere, these little details make the space come alive. And shows the respect and reverence the order has for nature. 

Lavender Fields

The surrounding lavender fields, meticulously tended by the monks, create a stunning vista that captures the essence of Provence’s natural beauty. The sight of the vibrant purple blooms against the backdrop of the Abbey is a true feast for the senses. The rule of Saint Benedict, “pray and work” (Ora et labora), teaches the monastic practice of working and praying. The monks are encouraged to work to strengthen their connection to the natural world and therein with god. Whether it is growing lavender, cultivating a vegetable garden, tending to the olive trees, making honey or maintaining buildings, the monks work tirelessly to preserve the heritage passed down to them by their predecessors.

They also have a small shop on the premises which sells a variety of goods harvested by their order. The revenue their earn helps maintain and restore the Abbey. And they each have a distinctly Provencal charm and are worth bringing home as a souvenir.

Hours & Admission

Hours: Monday to Saturday: 9:30 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 5 p.m | Sunday: 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. 
Admission: Adult 9€ | Child (6-17) 4€ | Seniors 4€ | Student (18-25) 6€ 
Guided Tours are in French only. HistoPads are available in 10 languages ​​(English, German, Italian, Spanish, Dutch, Chinese, Japanese, Polish and Portuguese) and are included with your admission.

Stop for a Visit in Gordes

After exploring the Abbey, hop back in the car and head into the great hillside city of Gordes. After seeing it from the viewpoint, exploring its interior is a different experience. Walking the narrow cobblestone streets of this magnificent village nestled into the hillside feels like you’ve stepped into a fairytale.

You can wander around the great Gordes Castle, a majestic fortress and architectural gem of Provence. Or simply lose yourself in the medieval ambiance as you explore the winding alleyways and stumble upon charming squares adorned with vibrant flowers. Be sure to make your way out to one of the many views points which offer panoramic pictures of the surrounding countryside. If you’re lucky, you’ll see from above the brushstrokes of purple flowers emanating from the blooming fields of Lavender.

Explore the D2 Roads and their Lavender Field

Wind your way down toward the D2 roadway. The D2 or Route de Thorenc or Route de Gentelly is about six mins from the centre of Gordes. Once you reach it, you will begin to pass the first of many lavender fields along the side of the roads. Each one is more impressive than the next. This road feels like it is the epitome of Provencal landscapes. Cypress trees line long entryways into bygone farm buildings. Olive and cherry trees brimming with life dazzle in the distance. Rows of poppies are pressed up against the roadside. And the dramatic mountains create a mesmerizing backdrop. All while the smell of lavender wafts through the hot summer air. 

Continue along the D2 for a few minutes and turn right onto D102. As you approach the Route des Gordes on the D102, you will suddenly emerge into lavender fields on either side of your car! Dense and lush, so even in the heat of the summer, you’ll want to roll that window down.

Check out the Ochre Streets of Roussillon

Head east on Route de Gordes/D169 towards the ochre village of Roussillon. Park your car in the parking lot at the base of the village and walk into town. Roussillon is renowned for its vibrant ochre cliffs, which paint the landscape in warm red, orange, and yellow hues. As you stroll through the town, the rich colours of the buildings, adorned with shutters in shades of blue and green, create a harmonious contrast against the backdrop of the ochre cliffs. These natural ochre deposits have been a source of inspiration for artists throughout the years. And walking the streets makes you feel inspired by the amazing colours that feel larger than life.

Take your time to explore Roussillon’s narrow streets and pause at Place de la Mairie. This is the town’s central square, where locals gather, and the vibrant ambiance invites you to savour a quiet moment. Roussillon is replete with darling artisanal boutiques and inviting cafés. One of my favourite things to do in Roussillon is to get ice cream, choosing a uniquely Provencal flavour like lavender honey, apricot rosemary, chestnut or violet. With a cool treat, I head off to enjoy my snack from the edge of the city, along the Roussillon Lookout. On a clear day, you can see all across Provence. And the purple hues of the lavender fields spread like a blanket on the valley below.

Step on the Roman Roads along the Pont Julien

Once back at the car, take the D149 and D108 towards Bonnieux. Passing several lavender fields along the way. Before arriving in Bonnieux, we will stop off at the Pont Julien. The Pont Julien looks like a regular limestone bridge from afar. But when you get close up, you can see it’s much more than that. Here we have one of Provence’s most remarkable vestiges of the ancient Roman empire. Spanning across the Calavon River, this architectural masterpiece was constructed in the 1st century BC. It was a crucial transportation link on the Via Domitia, the principal Roman road connecting Italy and Spain. The fact the bridge still stands today is a testament to the ingenuity and engineering prowess of the Romans. 

Crossing the Pont Julien is like stepping back in time. Cars can no longer travel across, but people and bicycles can go freely along the bridge. As you walk along its weathered stone surface, you can’t help but imagine the ancient Romans and the countless travellers who once journeyed across this very bridge. The panoramic views of the lush countryside and rolling hills of Provence around you provide a breathtaking backdrop, enhancing the sense of awe and wonder. 

D36 & the Lavender House

Depart from the Pont Julien and pass onto D36 via the Chemin de l’Oratoire. When you make your right turn on the D36, you will suddenly emerge onto a road flanked on either side by rolling lavender fields. One of the most iconic photography points along this road is the ‘Lavander House,‘ a hotel property with a beautiful long laneway leading to their estate. On either side of the magnificent laneway are blooming purple fields of lavender fields, guarded by two majestic stone lions on either side of the elegant iron gates.

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Explore the Steeped Magic of Bonnieux

Continue along the D36 towards the charming and picturesque town of Bonnieux. This village is another perched hilltop town which offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, vineyards, and valleys. The city is tiny, with limited parking, and the narrow roadways make it challenging to look for parking spots. I advise parking in the lot marked on the map in the new church just below the entry to the city. From here, it’s a short and scenic ten-minute walk into town.

One of the highlights of Bonnieux is its well-preserved medieval character. As you wander through its narrow, winding streets, you’ll encounter beautiful stone houses, centuries-old churches, and quaint squares. Strolling through the town, you’ll discover various artisanal shops selling everything from pottery to lavender-based products and local wines.

Eglise Haute

At the center of Bonnieux stands the Eglise Haute, or high church. The high refers to its religious status and its literal spots at the highest point in the village. The church is a magnificent example of 12th-century architecture. And even from far below, it dominates the skyline. The walk up the hill and the many stairs to reach the church rewards those who summit with a panoramic across the stunning Luberon Valley. 

Le Wine Club

If you are looking for a spot to relax on your way down from the church, stop at the ‘Le Wine Club‘ on the Rue des Pénitents Blancs. This little hole in the wall (literally) is home to a well-curated wine selection with many vintages from some of the best winemakers around Provence. You can sample some of their best open bottles in brick interior vaults or outside on their peaceful back terrace.

Les Agnels Lavender Distillery

Head back and jump in your car to make your way east toward Apt. Drive along the D36 to the D232 and north up along the D113. In about 20-minutes you’ll make your way to the beautiful entry to Les Agnels Distillerie. This Lavender distillery is a family-owned farm that has been working these fields as far back as the Middle Ages! They began distilling lavender in 1895, and five generations later, they have perfected their techniques.

Today, they have opened their doors and invited you to come inside and learn more about how they harvest the essence of these aromatic plants. You can visit a small museum and exhibition which retraces the history of the Agnel family. Inside the distillery, one of the family members will guide you, explaining their cultivation methods, the distillation processes, and the olfactory differences between lavender and lavandin. It’s a beautiful way to connect to the people who make these products and have been intimately connected to lavender for generations.

Hours and Admission

In July and August, guided tours in French take place Monday to Friday at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m., and in English at 3 p.m. Duration: 1 hour €7 per person – Free for children under 12 | Reservation required

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Discover Roman Candied Fruits in Apt

After another 10 minutes along the D113 and up the D943B, you will arrive in the town of Apt. Apt is known for its charming medieval character, narrow streets and old buildings. But what sets this town apart is its long-standing tradition of candying fruits. In fact, Apt hosts an annual candied fruit festival called “Fête de la Confiture,” where locals celebrate this culinary tradition.

One of the best places to find these unique confections year round is with a trip to the ‘La Maison du Fruit Confit.’ Here you can taste and buy candied fruit made right here in Provence. The Romans were the first to preserve fruit year-round in honey. And little has changed, aside from replacing honey with sugar, as it is more cost-effective. This method of preserving the Provencal summer fruits like apricots, cherries, clementines, figs, melons, pears and plums is one of the oldest culinary traditions in France and one worth tasting for yourself.

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If you’d like to explore more of the old town of Apt, head down to the impressive Cathédrale Sainte-Anne. This 12th-century Romanesque cathedral is another testament to the town’s Roman past. The lower crypt of the building dates back to the 1st century, as it was initially part of a Roman structure. During the medieval period, the town was fortified with rampart walls and traces of these fortifications can still be observed in certain areas.

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View of Saignon from the D48

Jumping back on the road, we continue east, towards Saignon, on the D48. Before heading through Saignon, stop at the spot marked on the “View of Saignon Lavender fields.” From here, you have the most picturesque place to see the rows upon rows of lavender plants spread out in front of the sprawling city of Saignon rising from the hillside.

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Wander the Flower Street of Saignon

Saignon is situated on a rocky outcrop overlooking the surrounding countryside. Many houses in this “rocky acropolis” have kept their medieval appearance. But to me, it is the vast array of vibrant flowers and creeping ivy that covers almost every building in town that makes this place feel like such a magical, almost storybook-like spot to visit.

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If you want to grab a bite for dinner, head over to the Jardine sur le Toit, which translates to “Garden on the Roof.” Located at the top of Saignon, on the remains of the 12th century Château de Crugiere, this restaurant offers breathtaking and panoramic views of the Luberon on their garden terrace. While the views are extraordinary, the restaurant’s vibe is comfortable and relaxed, featuring down-to-earth Provencal classics. The perfect spot to enjoy a delicious meal made from local produce across the valley you’ve traversed.

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Le Petit Cabanon Aux Lavandes

To finish your day along the Luberon Lavender Route, go northeast along the D174 to the Petit Cabanon aux Lavandes. This small stone house with traditional wooden shutters is nestled amid lavender fields on the hills of the Luberon. Today, it has been restored and rented out on Airbnb to a few lucky visitors. But if you aren’t staying in the cabin, you can still take pictures of the iconic photo spot along the roadside. If you can plan around being here for sunset, you’ll be in for a real visual treat!

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From here, you have come to the end of our self-guided Luberon Valley Lavender Route tour. As you bid farewell to the Luberon Valley, take a moment to reflect on the beauty and serenity you’ve encountered along the Lavender Route. The memories of lavender-scented breezes, breathtaking vistas, and the warmth of Provence will remain etched in your mind, forever transporting you back to this magical corner of the world.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Guide to Exploring the Lavender Routes in Provence: the Luberon Valley first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Three different regions around Provence are known for their lavender-producing fields. These are the Valensole Plateau, Pays de Sault and the Luberon Valley. I always choose one area to make a day out to discover the magic of the magnificent lavender fields in Provence. Focusing on one specific region allows you to explore it to the fullest. Discover hidden corners and stop to relax and soak in the scenery. So today, let’s dive (or drive) into the fields around the Valensole Plateau.

Table Of Contents

1. The Valensole Lavender Route in Provence
2. How Long Does this Route Take?
3. About the Valensole Plateau 
4. The History of Lavender in Provence
5. When to see the Lavender Route in Provence
6. Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route
7. Photography Tips
8. Going By Guided Tour
9. Provence Lavender Varieties 
10. Starting your Road Trip Across the Valensole Route Lavender 
11. Terraroma
12. Angelvin Lavandine
13. Château du Grand Jardin
14. The Village of Valensole
15. Producteur Miel Aux Fleurs De Lavande
16. Brasserie du Plateau
17. D8 – Route de Riez
18. Lavender Hut

The Valensole Lavender Route in Provence

How Long Does this Route Take?

The Valensole Lavender Route is the shortest of the different drives you can take around Provence to explore the Lavender fields. This route will take half a day, making all stops. So you can easily fit a visit to one of the neighbouring towns if you’d like to spend all day in the Valensole region or simply head back to home base to relax after an enjoyable morning.

About the Valensole Plateau 

The Valensole Plateau is one of the most beautiful regions of Provence. The area is located in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, between the valleys of the Durance River to the west, the Asse River to the north, the Gorges du Verdon and Lake Sainte-Croix to the south. The region comprises gently rolling hills, open meadows, and expansive fields. The landscape is littered with picturesque farmhouses, quaint villages, and charming Provençal architecture, creating a postcard-perfect setting. But from June to August, endless rows of lavender stretch across the countryside. Casting a truly awe-inspiring feast for the eyes and senses. 

The History of Lavender in Provence

“Lavender” comes from the Latin “lavare,” meaning washing. Since ancient Antiquity, the Romans knew how powerful the lavender plant was. They used it for its medicinal properties and aromatic qualities, and especially for washing. But Lavender is not native to Provence. It was brought to the countryside by the Romans. The Romans knew that Provence’s dry, sunny climate and well-drained soils would be ideal for lavender growth. In the Middle Ages, lavender cultivation in Provence was primarily undertaken by monastic communities. Monks recognized the value of lavender for its therapeutic uses and began growing it in monastery gardens.

Over time, the cultivation of lavender expanded beyond monasteries. Farmers and locals started cultivating lavender on a larger scale. In the 19th century, the demand for lavender products, such as essential oil, perfume, and soaps, increased domestically and internationally. And lavender became one of the most important agricultural exports for the region. Distillation techniques improved, allowing for efficient processing of lavender crops. Today, lavender fields in Provence are an iconic symbol of the region, attracting tourists from all over the world.

When to see the Lavender Route in Provence

Because the Valensole Plateau is about 500 m above sea level, the lavender in this region typically blooms from mid-June to mid-July. However, it’s important to note that exact blooming times can vary slightly depending on weather conditions throughout the year. In 2023 there was a larger amount of rainfall in the area, delaying the blooms. If you arrive too late or too early, you can always visit the fields in the Luberon or Sault. These areas bloom earlier and later respectively. The best place to get up-to-date information on the bloomings is from local tourism websites, lavender farms themselves, or tourist information centers. All of these are great resources for updates on the current state of the lavender fields.

Tips for Visiting the Provence Lavender Route

Field Etiquette

Before entering lavender fields, remember to respect the farmers’ hard work and follow any posted guidelines. If there are any roped-off areas, avoid entering. They are there for a reason. But with so many different fields to visit, you will always find somewhere you can walk right into the fields to get those sprawling views. Remember to avoid stepping on the plants at all costs. This is how these farmers make a living, and you would hate to be responsible for damaging their crops.

Always be sure to walk only down the rows of lavender and not over them. And never pick the flowers. There are so many places around Provence to buy very inexpensive stalks of lavender; there is no need to pick them yourself in case you damage the plant by doing so. Plus, stalks of lavender must be dried to be preserved, so best to buy them after they have been left to dry.

What to Wear & What to Bring

During the summer, when the lavender blooms in Provence, it can be impossibly hot. So be sure to wear plenty of sunscreens and always bring a large, wide-brimmed hat to ensure you aren’t directly exposed to the sun. Especially in the fields, there is no shade to escape under, so you will always be in direct sunlight. As you walk around in the lavender fields, wear some sensible shoes. Sneakers or comfortable sandals are the best options for footwear.

Bring a nice, thick picnic blanket with you if you want to have a little picnic along the way. Most fields don’t have super soft ground, so having a good, thick base to sit on is a great idea to ensure you’re comfortable. Also, bring everything you’ll need for the picnic, from food and drinks to cutlery and napkins. And always make sure to leave your picnic spot exactly how you found it and bring all your garbage home with you. Be sure you bring plenty of water, more than you’ll think you need, for long days out in the sun.

Renting a Car

To make the most of this photographic region of Provence, you’ll want to rent a car to get around. It’s advisable to book your rental car in advance, especially during peak travel seasons. When picking a rental car for your travels in Provence, I always air on the smaller side. Smaller cars are ideal for navigating narrow village streets. And some roads in Provence you might think are one lane only, but before you know it, you’ll discover they aren’t. And the smaller your car, the easier it is to scoot by. Just be sure to pack lightly to ensure you can fit all your luggage into the car.

Rules of the Road

Be sure to familiarize yourself with France’s road rules and driving customs. In France, you drive on the right side of the road. And remember that priority is given to vehicles coming from the right at intersections without traffic lights or signs. The roads in Provence have very strict speed limits. And there are hidden speed cameras even in small villages and dirty roads. And these speed cameras will fine you for going even 10km over the limit! These fines will be mailed to you back home, so there is so escaping them after your trip. So you should always keep an eye on these speed limits. Some cars come with a GPS system that will alert you to the change in speed limits. Or use Waze to help you get an alert when a speed camera is in effect.

Parking

Before stopping your car to get out and explore the fields, you’ll want to do so safely. You don’t want to stop your car in the middle of the road and block oncoming traffic. Trust me; there are many places to stop, so if you think you’re missing an opportunity, another will come any minute. Many lavender fields have come to expect tourists these days. And there will often be a patch of dirt where you can park your car, off to the side of the road, near the fields. Never ever park or drive your car right into the lavender plants field.

Lots of the lavender producers and shops have parking lots out front. You can explore the shops and then head back to see the fields beyond. When in villages, there are both free and paid parking options. Pay attention to parking signs to avoid any fines or penalties.

Photography Tips

You have to expect to see a lot of people during the summer months. But arriving early in the morning, or right at sunset, will ensure you get as much of the field to yourself as possible. And remember, if you just turn your camera this way or that, it’s easy enough to get a shot without other people in it. Be kind to those around you; everyone is there for the same reason.

Going By Guided Tour

While renting a car and going at your own pace is always my recommendation, if you don’t want to drive yourself and instead just want to relax and be led by a guide, you have plenty of options. These guided tours stop off at producers and fields and combine your day trip with a visit to famous neighbouring villages like Moustiers-Sainte-Marie and Sainte Croix du Verdon.

Provence Lavender Varieties 

When it comes to lavender, there are over 30 different species. But the two most popular you’ll find in Provence are Fine Lavender and Lavandine. While they both belong to the Lavandula genus, there are distinct differences in the characteristics, aroma, and cultivation of each plant.

Fine lavender (or Lavandula angustifolia) typically grows in compact, bushy formations, reaching around two-three feet. It showcases slender, linear leaves with a gray-green hue. Its slender and elongated flowers form tight spikes at the top of the stems. The blossoms display a lovely lavender-purple colour. This flower offers a delicate, sweet, and floral fragrance. Its scent is often soothing, calming, and reminiscent of the quintessential lavender aroma.

Lavandine (or Lavandula x intermedia) is a much larger plant, often growing up to three-four feet tall. Its flowers are shorter and fuller than Fine Lavender, forming dense and rounded flower spikes. The colour of the blossoms can range from lavender-purple to bluish-purple. Lavandine exhibits a more intense fragrance compared to Fine Lavender. Its scent carries a sharper, medicinal note with hints of camphor (woody scent), making it suitable for various aromatherapy applications. Lavandine also typically blooms a bit later than Fine Lavender.

Starting your Road Trip Across the Valensole Route Lavender 

Start your journey early in the morning. Tourists come out in full force by mid-afternoon, so starting early, you’ll hope to beat the big crowds. Before heading out into the Valensole, always ensure your car has a full tank of gas. Gas stations can be few and far between out in the country. It’s always good to get enough gas for the journey so you don’t end up needing to backtrack for a fuel station. We also always ensure to stop off at our local boulangerie before leaving. That way, we can stock up on some snacks for the road. Great for an impromptu picnic in the lavender fields.

To begin your day along the Valensole Lavender route, start your journey on the Route de Manosque or the D6 roadway. This peaceful road stretches across the valley, with views of the mountains in the distance. As you wind down the road, you’ll pass through orchards of almond trees and vibrant red poppies lining, acting as a floral carpet across the roadside. And then, all of a sudden, you make one turn and, like magic, you are suddenly immersed in the world of lavender. Fields of purple stretch as far as the eye can see. The fields on either side of your car are absolutely flanked with lavender. Bushy green leaves support surging stems of bright purple lavender blooms all the way to the horizon.

Terraroma

Our first stop of the day is the Terraroma farm. The family of Jaubert has owned the fields here for four generations. As a mainstay in the community, they take great pride in their products. They produce everything from Provencal almonds to honey, but their most popular items are their cosmetics made from their lavender.

Lavender products offer a range of benefits, as lavender is known for its soothing and therapeutic properties. From sleep aids to skincare and relaxation, there seems to be a myriad of ways in which lavender can help you. Terraroma does a really fantastic job of creating cosmetics from their fields that feel very luxurious. Many touristy shops only carry essential oils or soaps, but you can get face creams, shampoos, body lotion and even eau-de-toilette here. Many of their lavender products are blended with the almond oil they produce. Almond oil is one of the best formulations for skin moisturization, and mixed with that divine scent of lavender makes for the most luxurious-smelling hand cream.

There is no charge to park at these little roadside producer shops. While you don’t need to go inside, I highly recommend it as the prices direct from the producers are some of the cheapest you’ll find in Provence. After you finish touring the shop, take a walk down their vast fields of lavender. The other great bonus of visiting Terraroma is that they also grow sunflowers in addition to lavender. And these fields also make for amazing photos! The sight of those brilliant yellow flowers next to the dense array of purple blooms is such beautiful contrast.

Opening Hours: Monday – Saturday, 9am- 12pm & 2pm to 6pm | Closed Sundays

Angelvin Lavandine

Just two minutes down the road is another very popular lavender producer, Angelvin Lavandine. Walking into the shop here, you can meet with the farmers, who will explain their various harvesting and distillation methods. It’s a great opportunity to learn how they manage to get the essence of the lavender out of the plant and into these various products.

Angelvin Lavandine sells traditionally “Provencal” themed gift baskets. These make for wonderful presents to bring home and give to your loved ones. And while you’re there, be sure to try some of their lavender ice creams. While floral-flavoured ice cream might not be for everyone, it’s definitely worth trying. I find it it’s truly delicious!

At the back of the shop, you can see their giant harvesting equipment. And outside the barn are huge bails of lavender plants, harvested and ready to be processed. The fields outside the shop are nice and wide, with large healthy plants where you can stop and take some photos.

Opening Hours: 9 am to 6 pm every day in the summer

As you continue along the D6, you’ll pass several more open lavender fields. These fields are just on the side of the road without an accompanying souvenir shop. If you’re going to stop, be sure you are pulling over onto a part of the field that isn’t occupied by any plants. You’ll easily see the areas meant for vehicles. Do not stop in the middle of the road.

Château du Grand Jardin

As you continue along, you will enter the village of Valensole. Just at the entry to the little village is the old Château du Grand Jardin. The castle dates back to the 17th century. The Fresse de Monval family acquired “Le Grand Jardin,” and built a country house here around 1680. In the late 19th century, the de Fresse de Monval and d’Auvergne families expanded the castle with additional floors, a tower, outbuildings, and a neo-Gothic chapel.

After the WWII, the house was auctioned off and fell into disrepair. But thankfully, it was purchased in 2001, and restored to its former glory. It opened up to the public as a bed and breakfast. But even if you’re not staying at the hotel, they also welcome day trippers into their antique-styled tea room. Here you can sample a French cup of tea and pastry or simply indulge in their homemade lavender ice cream. Sitting out on the terrace enjoying a refreshing drink is one of the best ways to soak in the scenery. Honestly, happening upon these amazing historical home turned into public properties is one of the reasons I love Provence so much. Where else can you just casually have tea inside a 16th-century castle?!

The Village of Valensole

While passing through the village of Valensole, it would be a shame not to explore the town itself. Leave your car where you parked at the hotel or head towards the parking lot marked on the map. Once you’ve parked the car, walk towards the town square. While Vanlensole might not be a huge city that draws many tourists, I love its quaintness. The square is centred around the old fountain, which dates back to 1734. The houses surrounding the square each bear those iconic colourful window shutters that feel so perfectly Provencal. Be sure to walk along Rue Dr. Maurice Chaupin, as these houses are some of the most charming in the region. 

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Producteur Miel Aux Fleurs De Lavande

In the town square, you’ll find a shop front selling Miel Aux Fleurs De Lavande or Lavender Honey. This shop has been making honey since 1948, and its quality is known all over the region. And made specifically from the lavender grown in the Valensole region. If you’ve never tried lavender honey before, you absolutely must buy some while you’re here. Lavender honey tastes almost just like regular honey but with a touch of floral notes. Lavender honey makes for one of the best souvenirs from Provence. And don’t worry about buying too much. Honey almost never spoils so you’ll be able to enjoy it for months to come.

Brasserie du Plateau

If you want to stop for lunch in town, head to the Brasserie du Plateau, where they have a lovely outdoor patio overlooking the valley. The prices are very reasonable, and it serves typical French food from local producers.

D8 – Route de Riez

As we head out of town, we change from the D6 onto the D8 roadway or the Route de Riez. Riez is one of the oldest towns in Provence, founded in the first century. If you are looking for places to visit after the Lavender Route, visiting Riez is worth a quick stop to see the four monolithic Roman granite columns sculpted during the 1st century A.D.

Lavender Fields along the Route de Riez

The fields along the Route de Riez are perhaps even more densely populated than the ones on the D6. While I’ve marked a few spots on the map that I know have small areas to pull over, there are so many more you’ll discover along the way! One of my favourite parts of the drive along the D8 is to study the fields of lavender placed right under the shadow of the Provence Alples.

Lavender Hut

As you come to the end of the D8 road, near where it exits onto D953, make a stop at the field marked, “Lavender Hut,” on the map. This spot is one of the most photographed fields in the area. In the center, this huge lavender field has an old brick hut surrounded by a wash of purple blooms. It is such a spectacular sight it barely feels real!

This brings us to the end of the tour around the lavender fields of Valensole. If you’re looking to explore the area further, consider visiting Moustiers-Sainte-Marie. Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is situated at the foothills of the Verdon Gorge and is renowned for its scenic beauty, historic charm, and traditional artisanal pottery. 

As you go home at the end of the day, see if you spot a lavender field as the sun sets across the valley. The mesmerizing panorama of the sunset casting a golden glow over the landscape is truly a once-in-a-lifetime sight to see! And the perfect way to end your day along the Lavender Route!

Touring the Valensole Lavender Route in Provence is an unforgettable experience that will captivate your senses. Allow yourself to be swept away by the magic of this idyllic region, and you’ll return home with a heart full of cherished memories. And lots of divine smelling souvenirs!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Exploring the Lavender Route in Provence: the Valensole Plateau first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

If you’re looking for someplace, that is more laid back and yet still will introduce your kids to the wonders of France, you should check out everything there is to see and do in Provence! There is truly nothing like experiencing the Provencal way of life with your kids, from wandering the outdoor market and sampling the freshest fruits and vegetables to exploring the ruins of an ancient castle that will bring history to life right before your eyes. There truly is something for everyone. And for those travellers who want to split their time between Paris and Provence, you can get a TGV train from Gard du Nord into Provence in less than 3 hours! 

So, don’t delay. And start dreaming of your perfect trip to Provence with your little explorers. Here are my favourite recommendations for the best activities for kids in Provence!

Table Of Contents

1. #1 Explore the Exciting Outdoor Markets
2. #2 Hike into the Ochre Quarries of Rousillon
3. #3 Discover the Ruins of the Château des Baux-de-Provence
4. #4 Take an Exciting E-bike Tour 
5. #5 Canoe Along the Pont du Gard
6. #6 Solve the Intrigue Dans la Ville
7. #7 Step Back in Time inside the Rocher Mistral
8. #9 Try out a Provencal Pastime
9. #10 Take a Workshop inside the Musée de la Lavande

#1 Explore the Exciting Outdoor Markets

One of the first outings I recommend doing with the kids upon arriving in Provence is hitting a local market. Preferably one near your home base. This is the best way to introduce the kids to exploring a new city before diving into a big touristy town. I always recommend going to one of the smaller markets over the busy ones in larger cities. While the Sunday Market in Isle-sure-la-Sorgue is amazing, it can be overwhelming with so many people. And the little ones are bound to get swallowed up by the big crowds. 

Interacting with the Locals

And don’t think the smaller markets are anything to look down on. Even the most humble market in Provence is a fantastic place for kids. Here they can learn, just by looking, about all the different kinds of Provencal produce. Foods are unique to this part of the country. 

And there will be a lot of opportunities for them to interact with the local vendors. In my experience, the vendors loved interacting with kids. They would come out from behind their booths and stalls to show off their produce. They would even slice into melons and give them apricots to try! I think the kids ate more samples than real meals throughout the trip! One of their favourite finds was a lovely woman who made freshly pressed apple juice from her nearby orchard. The kids adored her version of “special apple juice!“

And our kids really got a kick out of being in charge of the cash and doing all our transactions. They loved working out the math and studying the different coins and bills we would use in the market. In Canada, cash is also becoming almost obsolete, so that was a novelty all in itself.

Afterwards, Go for a Provencal Picnic

One way we got the kids engaged with a visit to the market was to help us pick up all the different elements for a little picnic. I created a scavenger hunt printout where the kids could mark off each element of the picnic as we went along until we had everything we needed for a beautiful Provencal spread! Included in our checklist were the following:

• Saucisson (cured sausage) 
• Baguettes
• Cheese
• Fruit (whatever was in season)
• Jam
• Juice
• Nuts
• And Olives (for the adults, of course)
• Chicken and Fries/Potatoes (almost all markets have rotisserie chicken cooked and ready to eat!)

Provence is chock-o-bloc with incredible picnicking options. And, of course, you can seek out those iconic viewpoints and vistas that make for the most picturesque picnic spots. But we often preferred whatever was close by to the markets. This meant we could eat up quickly as the kids were starving after salivating at the food in the market all morning. We often packed a small, foldable picnic blanket, but often we ended up in the park.

The parks in Provence were exceptional. The one in Saint-Remy has playscapes designed to look like owls, bats, and all different animals! And best of all, they had big tables for us to eat at. So the kids could run around and play after eating while the adults just lounged around and casually snacked on all the collections of goods we found that day.

#2 Hike into the Ochre Quarries of Rousillon

The city of Roussillon is nestled in the beautiful countryside of the Luberon. But this city really sets itself apart from the rest as it is surrounded by these remarkable ochre cliffs. These magnificent geological formations showcase vivid colours ranging from deep reds to vibrant yellows, creating a surreal and enchanting environment. One of the best ways to get up close to these amazing formations is by hiking along the “Sentier des Ocres,” the site of the former ochre quarries of Roussillon.

They call it a “hike,” but it’s much more of a leisurely walk. There are two routes, the short walk, which takes 35 minutes and the long walk, which takes around 50 minutes. There is an entry fee of 2.50€ per person to walk through the Sentier des Ocres, but you don’t need to make reservations in advance. The trail is open every day from February to December. As you walk along, stop with the kids and read the various interpretation boards you pass by. Each one explains the geological landscapes, how these unique formations were made, and how the quarries mined them for their rich materials.

After your short hike, you should head into the town. Picnics are prohibited along the trail, so a trip into town is a great place to grab something to eat. In addition, the little village is a charming and welcoming place. With houses painted the same ochre colours as the hillsides you just explored. After lunch, stroll through the vibrant alleys, where kids can discover unique artisan crafts and local products made with the clay they found in the quarries.

#3 Discover the Ruins of the Château des Baux-de-Provence

Perched atop a rocky outcrop in the Alpilles mountains, watching over Provence, are the great ruins of the Château des Baux-de-Provence. Entering this medieval fortress is like stepping into a world frozen in time. Your kids can run around this amazing 10th-century castle, sneak into the dungeons, explore the ancient castle chapel, walk around the crumbling Saracen Tower and learn about the old troglodyte houses.

From the ramparts, you can gaze out over the vast Provençal landscape, stretching as far as the eye can see. The panorama lets you take in the rolling hills, vineyards, olive groves, and quaint villages. Creating a breathtaking backdrop that adds to the castle’s allure. Because the castle is open to the air, lacking roped-off areas that you might expect in a normal museum, it feels like you are an explorer discovering these ruins. Instead of a load of placards, your admission includes an audio guide which gives you live commentary on the history of the Château. And more specific information about the Lords of Baux and what life would have looked like in the Middle Ages inside the castle.

Special Events & Activities

During the summer and holidays, the castle holds different special events for kids. This includes archery lessors, war machine demonstrations, a stonecutter workshop and even a working blacksmith. These special activities are included if you buy the activities admission ticket.

Throughout the year, there is also an Escape Game. This game teaches kids all about the history of Château des Baux-de-Provence while having fun! In teams of 2 to 6 people, you lead the investigation and explore the remains of the castle. You must discover the mysteries surrounding the last will and testament of the Princess of Les Baux. Kids solve a series of riddles and challenges to solve the mystery. Although they say, it’s age +12, with some adult help, even younger kids will be able to participate in the game! The game costs an addition €5 in addition to the entrance ticket.

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Hours and Admission

The Château des Baux is open every day, all year round. January, February, November, December: 10am-5pm | March, October: 9.30am-6pm | April, May, June, September: 9am-7pm | July and August: 9am-7.30pm
Admission: Adults €8 without special activities €10 with special activities | Seniors €7 without special activities €9 with special activities | Children (7-17 years old) €6 without special activities €8 with special activities | Free for children under the age of 7

#4 Take an Exciting E-bike Tour 

Now that we’ve settled into life in Provence, it’s time for a real adventure! One of the best ways to explore the stunning Provencal landscape is on a bike. There is nothing like being able to smell the countryside, stop easily on the side of the road to soak up a gorgeous view or just admire the changing scenery without being obscured behind car windows. But if you’re like me, you can’t imagine how people possibly have the strength to bike up those steep hills to reach those picturesque perched villages. Well, the answer is an e-bike. 

What is an E-bike?

An e-bike, short for electric bike, is a bicycle that is equipped with an electric motor. It combines traditional pedal power with this motor to provide varying levels of assistance, depending on the rider’s preference. Whenever you feel like you need it, you can turn up and down the motor to assist with propulsion. There was no better feeling when the hill would start to get steep than the feeling of the motor kicking and your bike simply soaring like it was nothing up the steep hills.

Renting e-Bike in Provence

We knew the kids would love this activity, and happily, we found a company that could accommodate the kids. Sun-E-Bike, at their location in Bonnieux, set us up with a bike trailer for the 6-year-old. The trailer was so roomy, and we referred to it as his personal Provencal chariot.

The older 8-year-old is really tall for his age, so he was above the weight limit for the child trailer. Thankfully, even though I hadn’t considered this, they quickly sorted us out with a tandem bike he could ride with his dad. Riding the tandem bike was great since the kid didn’t have to do any work. But he got to experience the entire trip just like the rest of us! If your child is going to ride tandem, even if they don’t need to make much of an effort, they must know how to ride a bike. That way, they feel comfortable peddling and keeping their balance on the back of the bike. The kids had a BLAST on the ride! The little one who rode in the trailer brought his colouring books and wasn’t bored every minute.

Going with a Guide

We also booked a guide for the day (or an accompanist, as listed on their site), who was one of the best parts of the experience. Having her lead us, we didn’t need to worry about using a map or ensuring we were on the right road. Instead, we just followed behind her like a flock of sheep.

We rode an astonishing 37km without breaking a sweat! Passing through all different small hilltowns and perched villages. The kids would scream in excitement as we saw various animals on the side of the road. And they enjoyed spotting the colourful flowers in bloom as we went. We even found a roadside cherry grove and snacked on fresh cherries plucked right from the tree! We stopped at a boulangerie to pick up sandwiches and drinks and picnicked under the plane trees. Definitely make reservations in advance. We had already done so, but when we showed up, I saw a few people get turned away who didn’t.

#5 Canoe Along the Pont du Gard

The Pont du Gard is a remarkable ancient Roman aqueduct located near the city of Nîmes. It is considered one of the most well-preserved and impressive examples of Roman engineering and architecture anywhere in the world. The Pont du Gard was crucial in providing fresh water to Nîmes during the Roman period. It remained in use for centuries until the fall of the Roman Empire. Over time, the aqueduct system fell into disrepair, but the Pont itself survived relatively intact. 

Introducing kids to these Roman sights is a fantastic way of making history come alive. This structure is unchanged from when it was first built, and it really makes you feel like you’ve gone back in time without a trace of the modern world around you.

Renting a Canoe along the Gardon River

And while visiting the historic site and the nearby museum is a great option for the kids, an even better way to explore the Pont du Gard is along the water. We rented canoes from Canoe Collias, just 15 minutes from the Pont du Gard historic site. You can park your car in their parking lot, where you pick up your rental canoes. 

Although called “canoes,” the boats were more like a cross between a canoe and a kayak. They were sturdy, made of heavy plastic, and used double-sided ores to paddle along the river. After signing your rental agreement, a member of the Collias crew will help sit you and the kids for lifejackets and give you a very short crash course on how to paddle down the river. If someone in your group has some experience in canoeing, this will be a big plus since most of us were newbies and probably could have used a little more guidance. But luckily, my dad knew what he was doing, so with a few lessons from him, we were quickly on our way. The kids sat in a three-person canoe, primarily controlled by their dad at the back. The rest of us sat in two-person canoes. 

Courses along the Gardon River

We opted for the 8km Pont du Gard course. This was rated as a beginner course which takes about two hours to complete without stopping. The journey took us 2-hours, but that was going at a pretty fast pace. We arrived at the end of the day and needed to hustle to ensure we arrived at the pickup spot by 5pm, their last pickup of the day. I would advise leaving yourself 3 hours or more for your journey. This way, you can take ample breaks along the way. 

You canoe down the Gardon River, passing through the massive Gorges Des Gardon. This canyon was carved out by the river Gardon, and this spectacular landscape is one of France’s most impressive geological sites. From the start of the course, you will canoe for about an hour and a half before passing right underneath the enormous three-tiered Pont du Gard. After passing under the Pont du Gard, you continue for about 30 additional minutes, where you will spot the endpoint. From here, you are met by a member of the Collins crew who drives you back to your car. This was a huge plus, as you don’t need to worry about paddling back.

Picnic on the Gardon

Each canoe is paired with a watertight barrel to place your belongings inside. If you plan in advance, you can aim to bring some picnic food and supplies. That way, when you arrive at the stunning Pont du Gard viewpoint, you can simply pull your canoe over to the side of the river and stop for lunch. There is also a small beach where you can swim if the weather is warm enough! A great way to cool down. Just be sure your canoe doesn’t float away…

The kids could do their fair share of paddling, but their favourite part of the experience was just being on the water. They loved spotting the different flora and fauna we came across. There were grey herons, eagles flying overhead, beavers nibbling wood offshore and lots of perch and pike swimming under our feet. And although our arms were certainly tired at the end of the journey, it had all been worth it for our amazing experiences along the way. Be SURE to wear lots of sunscreen and large-brimmed hats to keep the sun off. Bring lots of water and pack some towels in the watertight barrel to dry off if you get wet.

Prices & Info

Location: 194 Chemin St Privat | 30210 Collias (with Private parking, Toilettes and changing rooms)
Prices: 25€/Adult | 19€/Young Adults from 13 to 17 years old | 13€/children from 6 to 12 years

#6 Solve the Intrigue Dans la Ville

My nephews love a good scavenger hunt! They are obsessed with solving riddles and figuring out context clues. So when I came across Intrigue Dans la Ville, I couldn’t believe such a perfect thing existed in Provence. “Intrigue dans la ville” is a game designed for families that offer entertaining and educational puzzles set within various Provencal villages. Your mission, should you choose to accept it, revolves around a fictional historical crime in the village. You receive a suspects pack with beautifully illustrated pictures of the people suspected of the crime. You must explore a town to crack the mystery and solve the various game puzzles. Hidden in plain sight are clues. And throughout the game, you will learn more about the town’s history. As you unravel the game’s various enigmas. 

Where can you Buy Intrigue de Ville?

You can pick up the game package for Intrigue de Ville at the Tourist Information Centre in whichever village you choose to explore. There are over 22 destinations across Provence where you can find unique puzzles. Each with its own storyline and investigation unique to the specific city. Right now, only two spots offer an English version of the game; Vaison-La-Romaine and Avignon. You can check their website to find the participating villages’ list. 

The game cost €12, but I would have paid twice as much! This wasn’t some cheap printed PDF. The game came in an adorable cloth pouch and contained a detective booklet, an illustrated set of suspect cards, a historical town map, a personalized pencil, and a letter introducing the mission to the players. The additional contents of each game are different depending on where you play. In one town, we received a mirror required to solve different puzzles. And your kids even get a little button that designates them as investigators!

You can take the game at your own pace, but we found that with breaks for food and exploring, we spent about 3 hours playing. Once you complete the game, you discover the guilty suspect. And reveal a three-digit code. You then return to the tourist office and open a safe using the 3-digit code to see if you captured the correct suspect. If you solve it correctly, your kids will get a certificate as a souvenir! If the tourist office is closed when you are finished, you can always punch in the code online to see if you got the right answer.

Do You Need to be able to Read French to Play?

As mentioned above, the game is currently only available in English in two cities in Provence. The rest of the cities only have French versions available. We did two different investigations, one in Saint-Remy and one in Merindol. Both my brother and I took French immersion in school, but it’s been ages since we read French daily. So while we knew how to read some French, we mainly used Google Translate‘s Google Lens function to translate the live text. This worked absolutely perfectly! Albeit, maybe it took us a bit more time than if we had an English version.

If you happen to be in a town where they only have the French version, don’t let that put you off. If you have mobile data, you can definitely get by using Google Translate. But if you want to do the English version, that just gives you more direction of where to visit. If you have kids aged +6, this is an absolute must!

#7 Step Back in Time inside the Rocher Mistral

One of the most exciting and undiscovered things you can do with your kids is to take them to the Rocher Mistral. When I first found a brochure on this park, I was a bit skeptical. I hadn’t heard anything about it anywhere online and had been doing extensive research. Turns out, deep in the heart of Provence, is a historical park specifically for kids! 

Rocher Mistral is located inside the thousand-year-old castle of La Barben. The ancient castle was only open for adult, historical guided tours for years. But in 2021, the castle was transformed into a children’s theme park where your kids can journey through time! One of the reasons I think this park is less popular with tourists is because the park is primarily geared towards French speakers. But for English-speaking customers, you can pick up specific flyers at the entrance to the park with all the information and maps in English! Each of the shows also has a sign in front explaining the story.

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New for 2023, there are audio guides available in English and German on request! And even without understanding the language, the action speaks for itself for the most part. I would just avoid the Puppet show or Theatrical Stage Shows, are these are primarily speaking performances. Stick with the immersive experiences, stunt shows and exploration throughout the castle grounds.

There are three different kinds of admission tickets you can purchase. You can buy a ticket for a day visit or the nighttime show. There are also combination tickets that allow you to experience an entire day’s worth of activities.

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The Shows 

During the day, you can experience ancient revolts and booming cannon fire. From exhilarating stunt shows and sword fights to comedic performances and mesmerizing dance routines. The castle is an incredible hub of amusement!

As twilight descends upon the castle of La Barben, a magical hour dawns. Their 2023 immersive light show plunges you into a Napoleonic epic. At dusk, at the foot of the castle in the magnificent French-style gardens, stories and figures of the past come to life! The set design, sound and lighting effects are almost on par with Disneyland-like experiences.

Each performance or walkthrough is about 20 minutes long. Actors tell the stories of the castle and of Provence through these performances. All the actors speak French, but there are English cards outside the attractions that give you an overview of the performance you’ll see.

You can also tour various historical parts of the castle, including the castle apartments, the chapel and the old kitchen. Here you’ll find original artifacts, furniture and decor in the family for over 500 years!

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What is there to Eat?

For those wanting to spend the day at the castle, they allow you to bring in your own food. But there is also a restaurant inside called the Auberge Daudet (reservations recommended) and a more casual marketplace called La Guinguette de Marius, where you can find many kid-friendly meals. The food is excellent quality and very reasonably priced.

There is also an adorable Provencal market selling products from local craftsmen in the marketplace. These producers are heirs to centuries-old know-how! There is also a small traditional French carousel which kids can ride for free. If you have some downtime, there is also a boules field where kids can try their hand at this Provencal game.

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Hours & Admission

Location: Chemin de la Baou, La Barben, France
Hours: Open April-November. Check their website for the most up-to-date schedule of events. Close through the week during the off-season.

Admission: Day Ticket: Adults 25€ (advance purchase) / 28€ | Children 6-12 19€ (advance purchase) / 22€ | Children under 5 are FREE | Night Ticket: Adults 19€ (advance purchase) / 22€ | Children 6-12 15€ (advance purchase) / 18€ | Children under 5 are FREE | Day + Night Ticket: Adults 36€ (advance purchase) / 39€ | Children 6-12 26€ (advance purchase) / 29€ | Children under 5 are FREE

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#9 Try out a Provencal Pastime

Pétanque, also known as boules, is probably the sport that Provence is best known for. In North America, we call it bocce. But this game is more leisurely and languid than exhausting. In every town, even the smallest village, you’ll find the Boulodrome. The boulodrome is a large, flat, sandy or gravelly area, usually under shady trees. It’s here where locals gather to play their daily round of boules. The game is fairly simple, making it perfect for kids to learn and play!

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How to Play Boules

The game can be played one-on-one (called “tête-à-tête”), in teams of two players each (known as “doublets”), or in teams of three players each (called “triplets”). The game begins when a player from one team throws “the jack” (a smaller ball, usually in a different colour) to a desired location in the playing area. The aim of the game is to get your large metal balls (the boules) closest to the jack to score points. The same player who threw the jack throws their first metal ball. Attempting to get it as close to the jack as possible. The opposing team member then tries to throw their ball closer to the jack or to knock the opponent’s ball away.

The game continues with alternating throws between the teams until all the balls have been thrown. Points are awarded to the team with the ball closest to the jack. In some game variations, additional points can be scored for each ball of the same team closer to the jack than any of the opponent’s balls.

Where to Play Boules

If you’re staying in a holiday rental home, be sure to ask in advance if they have a boules or a Petanque set in the house that you can borrow throughout your stay. Some tourist offices also rent them out in larger cities. But if you head down to the local Boulodrome, you might also find that locals will happily invite you to play along with them, which is great fun! This kind of game can easily be played without a shared language. And it’s a fantastic way to meet your neighbours.

If you’d prefer to make a day of it, there are some great guided experiences around Provence where you can play boules with a professional! You will not only play the game but also learn all about the sport’s history and how to become a master of the sport! Food and drink (pastis for the adults) are served alongside the game, and a commemorative trophy will be offered to the winning team. It’s a great way to really get immersed into Provencal recreation.

#10 Take a Workshop inside the Musée de la Lavande

There is no more iconic flower (and scent) that links your travel memories to Provence more than lavender. Deep in the heart of the lavender country, you’ll find the Musée de la Lavande. This museum offers visitors a captivating journey into the history of lavender, its cultivation, and its various uses over the years. It also houses a small exhibition space that showcases lavender’s cultural significance in Provence. From the minute you arrive at the museum, you’ll be swallowed up by the soothing scent of lavender. Visiting the museum during the summertime is also a great way to give your kids the opportunity to get up close to this brilliant plant!

Lavender Workshops

And while adults might love the museum, some kids might be slightly less enthused. But, recently, the museum has introduced workshops for kids to help them get hands-on with using and understanding the power of lavender. All workshops require general admission into the museum, although kids under 10 are FREE.

The most accessible program for all ages is their personalized lavender sachet workshop. This activity is so much fun. Each child gets to choose their own fabric wrapping to create their sachet. Then they can create a personalized mix of aromatic herbs to fill the sachet. Of course, lavender is the star scent, but they can mix in others like mint, rosemary, thyme and basil. These are great for kids of all ages but more suited to younger children.

But what I was most excited about was the Lavender Scented watercolour workshop! The museum has its own watercolours that have been infused with lavender perfume! These were created exclusively by the Conservatoire des Ocres de Roussillon. You can spend up to an hour painting, and an artist is on hand to guide you through the process. Painting and artistry have such a strong connection to Provence, and being able to paint scented with the very essence of Provence is a truly magical experience.

Hours and Admission

The Museum is Open every day | Museum Admission: Adults €8 | Students €7 | Seniors €7 | Children & Young Adults (11-16 years-old) | Children under 10 are FREE

Watercolour Workshops: Tuesdays and Sundays from April to May and July to September Price: Additional €3 | Lavender Sachets Workshop: Every day except Friday, July to August Price: Additional €4

Travelling the world with kids opens their eyes to so many different experiences. But it also creates a world of new adventures for yourself as well! My travels around Provence were absolutely enhanced by going with the kids. Teaching the kids about French culture and traditions brought me so much joy. And it made my heart soar to see them becoming curious adventurers who can step out of their comfort zone, try new foods, learn new languages (or at least a few words) and create last memories to look back on for years.

Let me know if you’re planning a trip to Provence with your kids and any questions you might have!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The 10 Best Activities for Kids in Provence, the Ultimate Guide for Little Explorers first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

And even without traditional “kids menus,” we always found something the kids would happily eat. After all, there is never a shortage of bread in France! And as a last resort, this always did the trick. For anyone on the fence, make the jump! Go ahead and enjoy a decadent vacation in Provence with the whole family! But use some of my tips and advice below to ensure you are fully prepared for dining out with kids in Provence.

Table Of Contents

1. The French Mealtime Schedule
2. How to Read French Menus?
3. Where to Eat?
4. Menu Enfant
   • Be Polite and Ask Questions
5. How to Keep Them Entertained?
   • Bring Entertainment
   • Colouring Books
6. Always Opt to Sit Outside
7. What to Order For Each Meal?
   • Kids Breakfast
   • Kids Lunch
   • Kids Dinner
8. A Note About High Chairs
   • Happy Travels, Adventurers

The French Mealtime Schedule

The French have a completely different eating schedule than those of us in North America are used to. Eating dinner at 6 pm is absolutely unheard of. Most restaurants don’t even open until 7:30 or 8 pm. Lunchtime is less of an issue, but even cafes will close in the afternoon while they prepare for the dinner service.

To ensure you don’t have any grumpy kids on your hands while waiting for a late dinner reservation, be prepared with lots of snacks. By dolling these out throughout the day, we found that our six and eight-year-olds could easily make it to a later dinner reservation. Plus, I loved shopping for unique snacks in French grocery stores. It was so cool to see the unique options they had for sale. And often, we found many alternatives to the ones we had back home. But if you have really fussy eaters who might need something familiar, it’s always a good idea to bring some snacks from home, just in case.

Our favourite snacks were honestly the fresh fruit we bought from the markets. They loved chowing down on melon any time of the day. And strawberries, apricots, blueberries, and cherries were the perfect on-the-go treat. We also would carry around some croissants that were perfect for bigger appetites. And those tiny Hairbo packets (whose factory is actually in Provence) we found in almost every little grocery store were ideal treats for well-behaved kids.

How to Read French Menus?

The hurdle you might face when arriving at the restaurant is the menu. In Provence, especially in smaller, less touristy villages, the menu will more than likely be entirely in French. And sometimes even handwritten on a chalkboard. But don’t let this worry you! Just come prepared! While this would have been a much bigger problem years ago, thanks to apps like Google Translate, you can translate the menu right on your phone! 

Using the Google Translate Google Lens function, you can take a picture of the menu, even if it is handwritten, and the app will translate it into your desired language. Ensure you have downloaded the app on your phone and are connected to Wi-Fi or have mobile data. This will ensure you know what you’re ordering for the kids.

Where to Eat?

One of the best parts of eating in Provence is that there is no shortage of cafes, bistros and brasseries. There are generally informal restaurants with laid-back, traditional French menus. Bistros generally have a slightly smaller, more home-style menu. But both feature lots of kid-friendly options. 

French menus are often very small. So there isn’t a huge selection in which to pick from. Local restaurants stick to local ingredients that change monthly (if not weekly), so don’t expect a chance of getting chicken fingers and fries. But the joy of eating out in France is that typical French cuisine is fairly simple. In it’s purest form, you have cooked meat served with vegetables, often with a side of frites (fries) or potatoes. But we also found that at these bistros, the menu often had hamburgers, pasta and sandwiches too.

Menu Enfant

Another surprise was that more than half the restaurants we ate at, even the more upscale ones, had a tiny little section at the bottom of the menu called “Menu Enfant.” Aka, the Kids Menu. Or sometimes you’ll see it called “Pour le petit choux,” French slang for “for the little ‘uns.” But once again, don’t always expect chicken fingers or mac n’ cheese. In France, kids’ menus are generally smaller portions of the same foods as the normal menu. Albeit sometimes without adding those fancy sauces that kids might want to avoid. Typical items on the kid’s menu were roast chicken and fries, breaded meat and potatoes, bavette de boeuf (mini-steak and fries), and we even ordered mussels off the kid’s menu once! And yes, we frequently even saw hamburgers and fries on the menu more than a few times.

While we generally stuck with more casual establishments, we ate out a few times in some more upscale restaurants. At one which didn’t have an official kid’s menu, the waiter even offered to make our little one a custom kid’s meal! Without us even having to ask. The chef whipped up some roast potatoes covered in cheese and bacon. Our kids loved it. And we felt so taken care of. This was a take on the traditional gratin Dauphinois, so whether they knew it or not, the kids enjoyed some traditional French cuisine! When we looked around, we saw that the family beside us, who were clearly all locals, were eating the same thing with their kids. So evidently, this wasn’t their first time making an accommodation for the little ones.

Be Polite and Ask Questions

If you don’t see anything on the menu or the waiter doesn’t offer, I learned it’s always worth being polite and asking. Don’t ever expect anything, but they often can take something from their regular menu and simplify it for a kid’s less refined palette. I learned that the kids were almost always happy eating wherever we went. And we never had to alter our plans to find a Mcdonald’s. We got to eat at all the gourmet restaurants we had our hearts set on. But we were sure also to fit a few nights of takeout pizza in to give them (and us) a little break! But I think the kids really got a huge confidence boost out of being able to eat out so often with everyone else. They were like mini-adults. And so very European.

How to Keep Them Entertained?

Dinner, and even lunches, in France, are long, languid affairs. Service is slow, but it’s meant to be. The French, especially those in Provence, consider a meal a chance to relax. They want to enjoy their food as well as the company sitting with them. Don’t be annoyed if you feel like the waiter isn’t coming around as much as they “should.” They aren’t ignoring you or singling you out. If you’re used to the rushy-rushy service in North America, this will take some getting used to.  But the kids might have difficulty sitting still for that long. We saw lots of French parents taking their kids out for a talk. Or would simply let them play outside if the restaurant had a little terrace. 

Bring Entertainment

But by far, the best thing we did was invest in minature games the kids could play at the table. Our kids are obsessed with these Kanoodle solitaire games. They are perfectly pocket-sized, so they don’t take up too much room, and it kept them entertained for hours. I saw a few French families with their kids who were playing Nintendo Switch. And while we didn’t have one ourselves, I’m sure this is also a good way to keep them occupied. Just keep the volume off for those around you.

Colouring Books

For younger kids, we found that colouring books were the perfect thing to bring. They don’t take up too much space, and we saw many other French parents doing the same thing. If you’re looking for a Provencal twist, the Van Gogh Museum has created a series of FREE colouring pages of famous Vincent van Gogh masterpieces. Simply download and print, and start colouring! We loved these, and it was so fun to say, “We saw these trees on your walk today,” when they were colouring in Van Gogh’s famous Cypress trees. And the older kid enjoyed referencing the real artwork to see if he could recreate the same colours in his drawings.

Always Opt to Sit Outside

Many restaurants in Provence only offer outdoor seating. And we found this was a wonderful plus. If we ever had the option, we always picked the tables outside. When the kids were loud, it wasn’t nearly as noticeable amongst the clatter of the urban landscape around us. And the kids had many distractions to watch, including a never-ending succession of birds they loved to feed!

Sitting outside also meant getting up and walking around was easy and not very noticeable. The kids and I could run around on the quiet side streets, explore nearby fountains, and sometimes even discover a little kids’ playground not too far away from the table. These mini-outings were the perfect way to burn up their energy between courses. And by the time we returned, my wine glass was full, and dessert had arrived!

What to Order For Each Meal?

Kids Breakfast

Breakfast was the easiest meal of the day. We loved walking with the kids down to our local boulangerie (bakery.) Here, they could pick their favourite sweet (or savoury) baked treats. From croissants to brioche, pain aux chocolate and more, there were always many things they were more than willing to eat. We mainly ate breakfast back at the house. And kept a nice supply of jam and Nutella in the fridge to liven up morning slices of fresh bread. The kids gobbled up all the fruit we put down in front of them. And they especially loved seeing the fresh fruit they had bought from the market on the table. Like it was their personal orchard harvest.

Kids Lunch

Lunchtime is another very accessible meal for the kids. We generally got lunch as a takeaway meals (à emporter). This way, we could eat whenever and wherever we wanted. Frequently in the beautiful parks or squares, we found all over Provence. There is never a shortage of boulangeries selling croque monsieurs (essentially grilled cheese) or baguette sandwiches with all different fillings. Fromage et Jambon (cheese and prosciutto) was a big favourite of our crew. 

While not exclusive to Provence, crêpes are a beloved French treat you’ll find all across France. Whether filled with sweet ingredients like Nutella, fresh fruit, and caramel or savoury fillings like ham and cheese, crêpes are a versatile and delicious option that almost all kids will likely enjoy. For the pickiest eaters, you can order them a plain crepe with butter! Still super delicious.

Kids Dinner

For dinners, steak frites are a common dish loved by our big eaters. Roast chicken and pork chops were other simple dishes we frequently saw on the menu. And these always pleased the kids. Pizza is also surprisingly popular in France. Our small town had not one, but TWO pizzerias! And there were fewer than ten restaurants in the entire town! We found lots of menus also featured pasta which was generally a hit with the kids. When all else failed, a plate of frites or roast potatoes filled them up. And we’d supplement the lack of veggies with those portable squeeze pouches that come in all different flavours. And yes, they even have those in France!

A Note About High Chairs

A good tip to remember for the really little ones is that most restaurants in France, and Provence, do not have high chairs. And many restaurants are pretty cramped. So bringing your large stroller inside might be out of the question. Be prepared to keep your baby on your lap or ask for a seat outside where you can park your stroller. 

With all these tips, I hope you feel more confident in bringing your kids to Provence. While it does take a little bit more effort and energy to plan around their appetites, the memories you will get from the experience are unmatched. And I know that our kids had the time of their lives, and the food was one of the most impactful parts of the trip!

Let me know in the comments if you have any questions about bringing your kids to Provence, and I’ll do my best to answer! If you are interested in activities with your kids in Provence, check out my Ultimate Kid’s Provence Guide!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Best Tips for Dining with Kids in Provence, Amazing Family-Friendly Feasting first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

In Provence, almost every town, no matter how small, will host a weekly market. These happen in each city on one specific day throughout the week. And by far, the least popular day for these markets is Mondays. We had been hoping to gather a few bits and bobs for a picnic on the water, and when looking up our route to the Pont du Gard, the only town with a Monday market was Cavaillon.

The Reviews

Like I always do, I tried to research a bit more into the market before we left. Mainly to find out where to park and the opening hours of the market. But, I was shocked to find that the few reviews of this market I came across were pretty awful…

“If you’re looking for a Provencal atmosphere, go elsewhere.”

“The Cavaillon market is large; it is not geared towards tourists. Many stalls sell cheap fabric for making ethnic clothing, knockoff shoes and hats, cheap utensils, etc.”

“Market mainly for clothes and objects such as bags, glasses…in short, nothing to do with a Provençal market. Very few vegetable merchants, and when this is the case, few French products. A rather surprising market for a town like Cavaillon.”

I was blown away; I had never had a negative experience like the ones they talked about anywhere in Provence. Even the Luberon tourism website lists the market as “the least charming market of the Luberon.” And honestly, perhaps this made me want to go even more. So I could check it out for myself. To see if it really was as bad as they all mentioned. But what we found when we got there was probably the friendliest market we visited in Provence! 

Location

Cavaillon is a town worth a visit, regardless of the market. The adorable village is located in the heart of Provence. Situated at the foot of the Luberon Mountains. Cavaillon is blessed with a stunning natural setting. From the minute you arrive in the village, you can see the mountains right there in front of you. It’s nice to finally see them up close, especially if you’ve been driving past these mountains for much of your travels. They are truly stunning close-up!

The market will bring you into the heart of Cavaillon’s old town, with its narrow streets and centuries-old buildings exuding an undeniable medieval charm. As you wander the village, you’ll see beautiful stone houses adorned with colourful shutters and flower-filled balconies. The historic center is dominated by the Cathedrale Saint Veran, an imposing Romanesque church that dates back to the 12th century. A prominent landmark and well worth a visit after you finish touring the market.

Parking

Like with every Market in Provence, parking is usually the biggest hurdle to get over before starting your shopping adventure. The earlier you arrive, the better, as parking will be more and more limited as the day goes on.

The best and most convenient place to park is outside the Tourist Information Centre. If this lot is full, you can always find some open-street parking. This might require a bit of driving around. We arrived at 10:30 am (well past my recommended arrival time of 9 am), but even despite this, we managed to find parking on the street after only a few minutes.

If you’re worried about driving around and around, you can always opt to park at the Intermarche Parking lots located about a 15-minute walk from the historic centre. It’s a beautiful walk towards the market, where you’ll see the city’s charming architecture enfold in front of you.

The Monday Cavaillon Market

The Cavaillon Market occurs every Monday morning starting at 8 am, with market traders cleaning up around 12:30 pm. The market spills out in every direction, centring around the Hotel de Ville. Visit Place Philippe de Cabassole, Rue Agricol Perdiguier, Rue Joseph Guis, Place Fernand Lombard, Rue Aimé Boussot, Cours Bournissac and Place François Tourel to find over 180 different booths. Each one displaying a vibrant array of the best of Provence’s seasonal produce. 

Despite not being geared towards tourists, everyone took so much time to introduce themselves to us and explain the different produce they had on offer. We tasted cheese, olives, nuts and honey. All free of charge with no expectation of us buying anything. They were patient with my sub-par French, and everyone greeted us with a smile. A nice older gentleman approached my dad, offering him a flyer about the election, assuming he was a Frenchman. When my dad responded to him in English, the man laughed and ended up chatting with us for a few minutes as he was curious about what brought us to this market.

Navigating the Market

If you enter the market via the tourist information centre, you’ll notice that most of the market you can see (at first) is mainly cut-price clothing. This can put some people off as it looks more like a swap-meet than a Provencal Market. But once you get closer to the Hotel De Ville, you’ll start seeing more local producers. And those iconic striped awnings and wooden fruit crates begin to welcome you into the smells of Provencal fruits and vegetables. Perhaps some of those negative reviewers never made it past the clothing booths…

We found fresh lavender honey, marinade olives, and colourful fruits that looked like gleaming gemstones! One of our favourite finds was the rotisserie chicken and frites stall. The kids loved the fries and devoured the entire container over the course of our shopping trip. We were introduced to all kinds of Provencal sausages and even found creme and custard-filled donuts. These were one of our favourite desserts of the whole trip!

The major complaint I think I understand the reviewers were angry about is that this market doesn’t sell Provence “souvenirs“. There are no lavender sachets, Provencial tea towels or soap from Marseille. This market is primarily for the local community. So yes, there is cut-price clothing and bargain products for sale, in addition to fresh produce vendors. But Provence, like all parts of every country, needs to cater to their low-income communities. As well as everyone else.

Personally, I felt lucky to be able to explore this market. For a day, I felt I was as much a Provencal resident as anyone else there! They accepted me with open arms and made me feel so welcome.

The Famed Cavaillon Melon

One thing you absolutely need to buy in Cavaillon is their famous “Melon de Cavaillon.” In fact, this melon first put Cavaillion on the map in the 19th century. Back then, the railroads had first arrived in Provence, which meant more produce could easily be shipped out from even the smallest cities to the rest of France. People were enamoured by this delectable fruit, and soon everyone knew the name Cavaillon.

The village’s ideal climate and fertile soil creates the perfect conditions for growing these sweet and juicy fruits. They get a whopping 300 days of sunshine in the fields! The Cavaillion melon is grown from May to September, and all growers hand-pick each one to ensure it does not get damaged. The taste of these melons is so sweet but with just the gentlest hint of acidity, making it miles better than any “cantaloupe” I’ve ever had. To tell if you’re melon is ready to eat, you simply smell the navel of the melon, where the steam would grow. It should have a strong melon scent; if it doesn’t, you know it’s not ready to eat. 

In July, a huge festival is held for the lauded fruit. 100 Camargue horses, ridden by the Confrérie des Chevaliers de l’Ordre du Melon de Cavaillon, troop across the city. These “knights” are more like farmers whose duties include inspecting the authenticity of true Cavaillion melons, it’s density, sugar content, and appearance. The whole city gets in on the action, decorating businesses and gardens to be themed after this green-striped, honeysuckle-coloured fruit.

What to See In Cavaillon After the Market

Roman Triumphal Arch

After we had gathered all the supplies and food we needed for our picnic, we thought it would behoove us to explore the city a little further. We were so pleased to find a beautiful (and well-intact) Roman Triumphal arch, almost standing in the middle of the tourist information parking lot. Many cities across Provence are home to incredible Roman antiquities and architecture. It is almost a better place to come than Rome to see these Roman ruins. Cavaillion is home to a Gallo-Roman era 1st-century triumphal arch. One can only wonder what the amazing Roman city it was welcoming guests inside would have looked like…

The arch consisting of two semicircular arches supported by four pillars. The pillars have decorative pilasters adorned with foliage and topped with capitals featuring acanthus leaves. The base of the pilasters is embellished with large acanthus leaves as well. Cornices with oval friezes serve as the foundation for the arches. The front arch displays an archivolt embellished with a frieze of acanthus leaves, and above it are spandrels adorned with winged deities known as genii, wearing crowns (the left spandrel is better preserved than the right one). The inner sides of the arches are decorated with boxes featuring rosette designs.

Cathedrale Saint Veran

Another hidden gem of Cavillon is the Cathédrale Saint Véran. This architectural masterpiece blends Romanesque and Gothic styles. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint Véran, the patron saint of shepherds. Construction of the cathedral took place from the 11th to the 13th century. The addition of the name “Beate Marie beatique Verani” came about in 1228 when part of Saint Véran’s body was transferred to the cathedral. The cathedral suffered damage and restoration throughout history, including destruction by Protestant troops in 1562. Its simple stone exterior starkly contrasts the rich baroque decorations you find within.

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Chapelle St Jacques

Saint-Jacques Hill is located above the city of Cavaillon. And one clear day, you can see the ancient Chapelle St Jacques roof. If you are feeling up to it, you can walk up the stairs and pathways that winds up the hill to the top, where you are rewarded with an incredible view over Cavaillon. During Antiquity, the Celtic-Ligurian tribe known as the Cavares established a provincial town on the hill overlooking the Durance River. 

The area’s urbanization began in the 5th century, with settlements on the mountain and at its foot, including a river port. The hill was later renamed Saint-Jacques in the 12th century due to the presence of a chapel. The hermitage was established in 1300 and later became home to the Fathers of Christian Doctrine congregation in the 16th century. The hermitage underwent restoration in the 19th century and again in 1992. This spot it the perfect place to have your picnic, as the views are unmatched! You can even see if you can spot a few melon fields off in the distance!

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The Cavaillon Market truly holds hidden treasures waiting to be discovered! I was so happy to have ignored the negative reviews and explored this place for myself. And therein, I unearthed the essence and charm of this bustling market, showcasing its vibrant atmosphere, delectable culinary delights, and diverse range of local produce. So, if you’re looking to immerse yourself in Provence’s authentic flavours and culture, make sure to add Cavaillon Market to your travel itinerary.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Discover The Hidden Treasures Of Cavaillon Market: Rewriting The Reviews first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

While there are tons of lists of the “Best Provence Markets to Visit,” I would argue they are each beautiful explorations in their own right. Even the smaller markets, which primarily focus on produce, are full of unique discoveries. And amazingly charming vendors you can’t converse with as intimately as in the larger, more touristy markets. So let your heart guide you. Immerse yourself in the lively ambiance. Get lost amongst the green and white awnings. And explore all the vibrant colours, enticing aromas, and local delicacies you find throughout these iconic Provencal Markets.

This beginner’s guide provides essential tips and insights to help you maximize your visit. From navigating the different market stalls and knowing what’s in the season. Grab your basket, and let’s dive into the heart of Provence’s cultural heritage at the market!

Table Of Contents

1. The History of Provencal Markets
2. Features of a Provencal Market
3. When are the Markets Open?
4. What Time Does the Market Start?
5. What Time to Arrive?
6. Be Sure To Bring Cash
7. Stop by the Tourist Office
8. What to Do After the Market
9. What are the Best Markets to Visit in Provence?
10. Navigating the Market
11. What to Buy at the Market
12. Fresh Prepared Foods
13. Provencal Souvenirs
14. Market Day Tips

The History of Provencal Markets

Provence is such a culturally distinctive part of France. The name “Provence” is derived from the Latin term “Provincia,” meaning “province” or “territory.” During the Roman era, Provence was established as a Roman province known as “Provincia Romana .” The Romans initially divided the area into smaller regions, but “Provincia” became the word associated with the entire region. And over time, it just stuck.

Even the earliest Romans saw this land as a place which held huge agricultural potential. The combination of a favourable climate and diverse landscapes allowed a massive variety of fruits, vegetables and flowers to grow in abundance.

The First Provencal Market

Provencal markets in France have a long and rich history. The tradition can be traced back to ancient times. The Greeks established trading posts in the region around 600 BC, bringing in the concept of open-air markets. These early markets served as hubs for exchanging goods.

During the Middle Ages, Provencal markets gained even more prominence. They were crucial in supporting local economies and facilitating trade between neighbouring towns and villages. Markets were held in central squares, where merchants and farmers gathered to sell their goods. The markets became integral to daily life, offering diverse products. This time it was more than just produce. It included items like textiles, pottery, and handicrafts.

As the rest of the world began to change, grow and modernize, these markets never lost their importance. Despite other changes, like the introduction of supermarkets, Provencal markets still held great importance in people’s daily lives. The one-on-one interactions between vendors and buyers can never be replaced. The markets remain integral to the region’s identity, reflecting its agricultural heritage, culinary traditions, and vibrant local culture.

Features of a Provencal Market

There are a few key features that make a Provencal Market unique. Each city throughout Provence, no matter its size, will host their own weekly market on a specific day. Refer to my chart below to determine where you can find each city’s market day. This means that no matter where you are, you can find a market to shop at within an hour from your home base.

A Provencal Market is almost always held outdoors. Allowing vendors to simply show up on the day and set up their table or a cart on the sidewalks and squares. Busy streets are closed to vehicle traffic on market days, allowing pedestrians to easily walk up and down the streets to peruse the market wares.

A classic Provencal market will sell everything from fresh produce, cheese, flowers, souvenirs, textiles, prepared foods, and (of course) wine. You need to remember while many markets do cater to tourists, these markets are primarily a vital function of the local community. Residents greet each other weekly to catch up, gossip and, yes, do their daily shopping. Immersing yourself in this lively, friendly and electric atmosphere is a key part of how you can participate in that iconic Provençal way of life.

Marche paysans, Farmer’s Markets

In addition to Provencal Markets, there are also Marche paysans or Farmer’s Markets. These markets will focus entirely on locally grown, seasonal produce. Usually sold by the very farmer who grew it! I’ve heard some people complain or be disappointed when they discover the market they went to is a marche paysans simply because they can’t find all the souvenirs they were looking for. But personally, I often find these smaller, more local markets even more rewarding to visit. Yes, they will be missing the tea towels and soap and lavender sachets, but here, the food is the real star. They have a much higher focus on locally grown produce, and you’ll never taste anything fresher! 

When are the Markets Open?

Most of the larger, more tourist-friendly markets are open year-round. During the winter, these markets tend to be much smaller. With fewer tourists to cater to and less fresh produce coming in they still run but just in a more condensed fashion. The smaller markets, especially the farmer’s markets, are generally only open from April to December. I always check online the opening times and dates before heading out for the day. This way, you can ensure they’ll be open when you arrive.

What Time Does the Market Start?

Provencal Markets start early in the morning. It is perhaps the one thing the French seem to be willing to get up early in the morning to do. Most markets start selling at 8 or 8:30 am. Smaller vendors will sell out as the day wears on, but I generally find that if you’re a tourist, you can almost always find what you need, no matter the time of day. Tourists aren’t as committed to buying from one particular vendor as the locals do. Each one having their own personal relationship with the vendor and their produce.

The stalls start to close around noon as people want to get packed up for lunch. By 1 pm, the town, which was once choc-a-block with stalls and busy shoppers, looked as if nothing was ever here. Street cleaners mill about ensuring there is no trance left behind from the morning mayhem.

What Time to Arrive?

Arriving early can be really important to the ease of your experience. Most of these towns see a massive influx of people on market days- with vendors, locals and tourists. And since these cities don’t have this kind of traffic throughout the week, parking is limited. The earlier you arrive, the better chance you have a spot close to the start of the market. The later you arrive, the further you might have to park out of town. You often see people circling the centre of town endlessly, looking for a spot. And trust me, they look really frustrated.

One tip for those who don’t mind walking is to search in advance for a parking lot about 10 minutes walk from the market. These are usually wide open as most people will only be searching for spots as close to the market as possible. Personally, I love the lack of street these options provide, and the walk into town is often a scenic addition to the experience.

Street parking is usually free. If you are parking in a designed parking lot, you must pay by the hour. Usually, you’ll have to pay in advance for a set amount of time and leave the ticket in your window dash to show you’ve paid. If you need more time, you’ll need to return to your vehicle and buy a new ticket for another hour or so. Be sure you don’t leave any valuables visible in your car. Place anything of note in the truck or tucked away from view.

Be Sure To Bring Cash

Most markets still only accept cash. Although a few more commercial markets, like Les Halles in Avignon and Nimes, will take cards, the smaller markets have yet to adopt this new technology. Even in Aix-en-Provence, where the market is open almost daily, I found that vendors selling more expensive goods would only take cash. So be sure to bring some money with you. The lines for the ATMs (if there are any) can be very long. It’s also essential to have some small bills and loose changes. Some vendors won’t be able to break larger bills for you. You can always pop into a nearby convenience or grocery store to break those larger bills.

Stop by the Tourist Office

If the market town you’re visiting has a Tourist Office open when you arrive, that’s always my first stop. The people who work in these tourist offices, especially in the smaller towns, are so friendly and want to show off their incredible home. They always carry free maps of the village and provide suggestions of what to see at the market and throughout the rest of the town. One of the first questions I ask at the tourist office are they recommendations of the best local park. I always try to pick up items throughout the market for a picnic. And Provence has some of the best public parks which are the perfect setting for a charming little picnic.

What to Do After the Market

If you don’t feel like bringing the goods for a picnic, one of the best ways to watch the market come to a close is to grab a spot in a cafe that faces the market square. These are the perfect place to study the vendors closing their carts down for the day. And watch as the busy streets suddenly go quiet.

After lunch, I would recommend heading back into town. It feels like you have the whole city to yourself after the crowds have all disappeared. This is the best time to do your sightseeing. During the market hours, stalls and vendors often block the roads. And cover up key sights in town. So it’s best to explore after they’ve closed up for the day. If you’ve paid for parking, you can see if free street parking has opened up once the marketgoers have gone home.

What are the Best Markets to Visit in Provence?

As mentioned above, you can’t go wrong with any market you choose in Provence. But if you’re only in Provence for a few days and want to maximize your time, I would make a few recommendations. Aix-en-Provence is one of the largest cities in Provence, and they have a market open every day of the week. This lively market is known for its fresh produce, fragrant flowers, and artisanal crafts. Don’t miss the delectable calissons, a traditional Aix-en-Provence candy specialty made from almond paste, candied melons, and oranges.

Isle-sur-la-Sorgue‘s Sunday Market is famous for its antique treasures in addition to its expansive Provencal market. The Saint-Rémy Market takes place every Wednesday. The picturesque town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence was made famous by Van Gogh’s paintings. And it was also the birthplace of Nostradamus. But today, Saint-Remy is best known for its fabulous market that offers a delightful mix of fresh produce, local specialties, artisan crafts, and more.

Nestled in the hilltop is the quaint village of Bonnieux. This charming and picturesque market occurs every Friday. Although smaller than others, the town itself is an absolute delight, and there is nothing like wandering these streets which explode with colourful produce and beautiful textiles on market day. 

Farmers Markets

To explore one of the most expansive local farmer’s markets, I would check out Coustellet. The Coustellet Farmers Market takes place every Sunday, and during the summer months, they also have a Wednesday evening market. Situated in the whimsical village of Coustellet, in the heart of the Luberon region, this market is renowned for its focus on local and organic produce that highlights the unique agriculture of the Luberon.

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Rainy Day Options

If you happen to be in Provence on one of those rare rainy days, you should visit the Avignon or Nimes indoor Market, commonly known as Les Halles. These vibrant indoor markets are a bustling hub of activity. Since these markets are enclosed, making them an ideal destination during inclement weather. Les Halles are renowned for their incredible selection of fresh produce, local delicacies, cheeses, meats, seafood, pastries, and much more. Rainy days often create a cozy ambiance. And exploring these markets allows you to discover and savour the region’s culinary offerings. 

Navigating the Market

When you arrive, I often find first-time visitors can be overwhelmed. Provencal markets are a sensory feast, so allow ample time to wander through the stalls and get adjusted to the bustling atmosphere. There is nothing is worse than feeling like you must rush through the experience to rid yourself of the true Provencal way of life. Take your time to soak in the ambiance and engage with the vendors.

Aside from the sprawling markets like in Aix, I generally find that doing one lap around allows you to get the lay of the land. And its good to do before buying anything. Although you might spot something you like, you’ll find that a few stalls downs, further away from the road and the crush of people, the same item is half the price! So, if you have the time, do a general scope of the vendors and their wares before committing to a purchase. If you spot something special along the way, make a note of it. Jot down the location on the map you got from the tourist centre. Or use your phone to drop off a location pin at that spot. That way you can find your way back.

Greeting & Interacting with the Vendors

One of the joys of visiting a Provencal market is interacting with friendly and passionate vendors. You shouldn’t expect everyone to speak English, especially in the smaller, more remote towns and villages. In the larger, more touristy markets, you’ll find lots of vendors who will speak to you in English. But it shouldn’t be expected. Even if you don’t speak French, everyone is so patient and helpful in walking you through purchases. So don’t ever be afraid of interacting simply because you don’t speak the language. Remember to always say “bonjour” when greeting the vendor. This is considered very polite, and starting a conversation without doing so is almost rude.

Merci (thank you) and au revoir (goodbye) are other key phrases that will go a long way in fostering a positive connection with the seller. Feel free to inquire about the origin of the produce, the best way to use a particular spice or which fruits are ready to eat and perfectly ripe. They are so passionate about their produce. I even had one woman write me down a recipe she wanted me to try after I bought her white asparagus.

What to Buy at the Market

There are so many things to buy at the market, and it can be overwhelming to know what is unique to Provence and worth purchasing. For produce, you want to know what’s in season in Provence, as this will always yield the most delicious fruits and vegetables. As mentioned above, I adore filling my basket with different items to create the perfect afternoon picnic. This gives you an aim and a goal for your shopping adventure. And eating it right after purchasing, you get to taste the freshness of everything in the market.

Goat Cheese

Be sure to pick up some fresh bread at the market and pair this with a smattering of cheese. Goat cheese is the Provencal specialty. The weather in Provence has a combination of low rainfall, intense sun and wind. Growing tall, healthy grass for cows to graze on is difficult in Provence. Goats, on the other hand, happily eat dry plants and herbs. Plus, they produce really flavourful milk. You’ll find goat cheese in so many different varieties. Some are smothered in olive oil, others have ivory-coloured rinds, but my favourites are the ones covered in dried herbs and flowers.

A specialty in Provence made from goat cheese is Banon. This cheese dish is made by wrapping a ball of goat cheese in chestnut leaves. While it ages, it soaks in the taste of the chestnut leaves, creating this nutty and creamy flavour!

Olives and Tapenade

Olives are immensely popular in Provence and have grown almost across the country. If you’re staying in a rental home, you’ll probably have an olive tree, or grove, in your backyard. Olives thrive in Provence due to favourable conditions, including those mentioned above. But one unique aspect of Provencal weather is their mistrals. A mistral is a strong, cold north-westerly wind that blows through Provence. While it can sometimes be intense, the Mistral positively impacts olive cultivation. It helps to reduce humidity levels, prevent diseases and pests, and promotes good air circulation.

You won’t find olive oil in the markets (or you shouldn’t) as the sun makes olive oil less flavourful. But you will find huge tubs and pots of fresh olives. Seasoned in a variety of different herbs and spices. But one of my favourite ways to eat Provencal olives is in a tapenade! Provençal tapenade is made primarily from olives, capers, anchovies, garlic, and olive oil. In fact, the word “tapenade” comes from the Provençal word “tapeno,” meaning caper. Mixing this all together, you get this wonderfully flavourful paste. Best spread over bread for easy eating. Tapenade also comes in all different flavours with additions like sun-dried tomatoes, basil, and nuts.

Arles Sausage

If you’re looking for a little bit of meat for your spread, make your way to one of the many different saucissons stands. The most famous is the Arles sausage, also known as Saucisson d’Arles. The Arles sausage is typically made from pork and pork fat, seasoned with various herbs and spices characteristic of the Provencal cuisine. The recipe can vary, but common ingredients include garlic, thyme, rosemary, fennel seeds, black pepper, and sometimes red wine.

Unlike in North America, these sausages are cured. They don’t need to be kept in the fridge; just stored in a cool, dark and dry place. They are edible for about two months if stored this way, but trust me, once you start to eat them, you’ll finish it off in less than an hour!

Lavender Honey

To add some sweetness to the spread, grab some Lavender Honey. Lavender honey is created by bees that predominantly gather nectar from the lavender flowers that bloom abundantly in the region. This adds a delicate floral aroma and distinct flavour to the honey. And it’s unlike anything else you’ll taste. It’s a perfect accompaniment to soft goat cheese or dipping sauce for apples. Lavender Honey also makes a wonderful gift for anyone back home. And very Provencal.

French Radishes and Butter

A traditional French snack is a plate of radishes from the garden served with some salty butter. Sounds like a strange combination but trust me, it’s fantastic! The two ingredients’ complementary flavours and textures (butter’s creaminess and the radish’s sharp peppery taste) create this amazingly harmonious blend. French radishes are generally smaller and more cylindrical than the varieties you might have had before. They also typically have a crispier texture and spicy flavour that makes them a unique flavour to try!

Wine & Grapes

Provencal is known for its special terroir. Terroir is a term which refers to the unique combination of soil, climate, and geographical features that influence grape growth. The Provencal coastal cliffs, rolling hills, and inland plains provide a range of microclimates and soil types. This diversity contributes to the complexity and character of Provencal wines and their grapes. Add to this the hot, dry summers and mild winters with ample sunshine, and the result is a balanced wine with bold fruity flavours.

Rosé Wine

The most popular variety of wine you’ll find in Provence is Rosé. In fact, it is the largest rosé wine-producing region in France. Provencal rosé is known for its pale pink colour, delicate aromas of red berries, and refreshing acidity. Almost every market will have a wine seller where you can get a bottle of wine for less than ten euros. And no doubt it will have been made from grapes grown less than a kilometre from where you’re purchasing it. It really doesn’t get any more local than that!

Muscat Grapes

If you happen to be in Provence late in summer and early fall, don’t miss the opportunity to buy some Muscat grapes. Muscat grapes have a sweet and floral taste with pronounced notes of musk and exotic fruits. They often exhibit flavours of apricot, peach, orange blossom, and sometimes a hint of citrus. They are beyond amazing, and getting them fresh from the source makes them taste all the better!

Pêche de Vigne

Another unique fruit variety special to Provence is the Pêche de Vigne. The Pêche de Vigne, also known as Vine Peach or Vineyard Peach, is only in season in August in Provence. The Pêche de Vigne has an intense aroma with a honeyed, floral, tangy taste. The fruit is typically smaller in size compared to regular peaches. But its small size packs a punch. In addition to the taste, the colour of the peach is totally different than other peaches. It is almost black with a deep, blood-red interior flesh. A dramatic fruit to be sure! Although the season for this peach is short, lots of producers make jam out of this variety of peaches so you can taste it year-round. 

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Cavaillon Melon

I’m not usually a Melon fan, but you must try Provence’s local variety, the Cavaillon Melon. The Cavaillon melon is grown from all the way from May to September. This fruit benefits from the long hot summers and sunlight of Provence. All growers hand-picked each melon to ensure its soft flesh wasn’t damaged or bruised. Because it is so precious, this melon isn’t widely exported and makes it a special Provencal treat.

The taste of these melons is so sweet but with just the gentlest hint of acidity, making it miles better than any “cantaloupe” I’ve ever had. To tell if your melon is ready to eat, you simply smell the navel of the melon, where the steam would grow. It should have a strong melon scent; if it doesn’t, you know it’s not ready just yet.

Vaucluse Cherries

The Vaucluse region in France, with its favourable climate, became a hub for cherry growing, particularly for the confectionery industry. There are various cherry varieties, including Bigarreau, Guigne, Amarelle, and Morello Cherry. The largest concentration of cherry trees in France can be found in the Vaucluse, specifically in the Monts de Venasque. Cherries are delicate and best consumed shortly after purchase. And remember, if it’s been raining, don’t bother with the cherries. Rain sweeps the sweetness out of these berries, so they are best bought only when it’s hot and dry!

Carpentras Strawberries

A unique variety of strawberries, special to Provence, is the Carpentras strawberry. This variety is highly regarded for its unbeatable taste and is one of the four main varieties in France. The French consume an average of 2 kilograms of strawberries per person each year! And Carpentras produces over 4,000 tons annually, selling in markets all over Provence. Carpentras strawberries come into season as soon as the first buds of Spring begin to emerge. And they continue producing until late October, meaning you can almost always find fresh strawberries in the market!

Flowers

When I arrive at my first Provencal Market, I am always sure to pick up a few bouquets of flowers to place around my vacation home. Provence has some of the most incredible flower fields in the world, and the sheer abundance of incredibly lush blooms at every market makes me wish I had this kind of selection (and price) at home! I keep used glass drink bottles and pluck loose stems into these containers for easy vases if there aren’t any floral vases in the house. There is nothing like fresh flowers to make any rental feel more homely, and carrying a bouquet of flowers in your arms while sauntering through the market is like something out of a fairytale.

Fresh Prepared Foods

In almost every Provencal Market, you’ll find rotisserie chicken stands. Usually, you can smell these all the way down the street, and their enticing smell lures you in. These chicken stands also sell roasted potatoes and frites. Those roast potatoes are one of the best things you’ll find at the entire market. They are covered in herbs de Provence as well as sauteed onions and peppers. And the chicken? Probably the most moist chicken you’ll ever eat! Trust me, you won’t regret picking one up for your picnic.

Another popular food many locals get to-go to or “à emporter” is Spanish paella. The locals line up for this even as early as breakfast. Anytime you see a line, you know it will be good. Although we think of paella as a typically Spanish dish, Provence shares a border with Spain, and there is a significant cross-cultural exchange between the two regions. As a result, Spanish culinary traditions, including paella, have entered Provencal gastronomy. Paella is also a dish that takes a long time to cook but can be made in large quantities. Making it a perfect dish for the large crowds at the market.

Provencal Souvenirs

Provencal Markets are awash with amazing things to bring home for your friends, family, and yourself. I always feel like something you can consume at home is a fantastic gift from your holidays. These consumables have an essence of the terroir of the place you’ve visited. And it’s like bringing back a slice of the country itself. 

Lavender

Perhaps the most iconic souvenir from Provence has got to be its lavender. If you visit during the hot summer months, you’ll be greeted by seas of purples blooms spread across the landscape as you drive across the country. Stepping out of your car on the side of the road near the lavender fields is an incredible sensory experience. You can even smell the fields from miles away.

Lavender is not only prized for its visual appeal but also for its aromatic and therapeutic properties. The essential oil derived from lavender is used in perfumes, cosmetics, soaps, and aromatherapy products. The scent of lavender is often associated with relaxation. One of the most popular things for tourists to buy is lavender sachets. These are inexpensive and make for beautiful gifts to give out. The sachets can be popped into clothes drawers to keep things smelling fresh and discourage insects. You can find barrels of lavender ready to be bought in bulk at the market, often from local farmers. This lavender is easy to harvest and, therefore, cheaper to buy than oils and beauty products, which require more production.

Herbs de Provence

One of the most famous and easy-to-carry slices of Provence you can bring home is Herbes de Provence. Herbes de Provence is a mixture of fragrant herbs, including thyme, rosemary, savoury, oregano, and marjoram. They can add an authentic Provençal touch to your cooking and are ideal for seasoning meats, vegetables, and marinades. You can buy Herbs de Provence in bulk at the market. Then you can divvy it up into smaller containers when you get home. This is the most cost-efficient method. Although if you prefer something a little fancier, you can buy little tins and cloth bags with provencal designs that will look beautiful on your kitchen counter.

Camarague Salt

Akin to the Herbs de Provence, another classic cooking essential is salt. And some of the best finishing salt in the world comes from the Camarague. The Camargue is a unique and ecologically diverse delta where the Rhône River meets the Mediterranean Sea. The salt is harvested here through evaporation, where seawater is channelled into shallow salt marshes called salins. The salt concentration increases as the water evaporates under the Mediterranean sun and wind, eventually forming salt crystals.

The Camargue region’s unique environmental conditions contribute to the salt’s distinct flavour and characteristics. The salins are rich in minerals and trace elements, which give Camargue salt its subtle, briny flavour and slightly greyish or pinkish colour. It is often considered a gourmet salt due to its unique flavour profile. It can enhance the flavours of various dishes, from seafood and meats to vegetables and even desserts.

Provencal Fabric

What we now consider typical Provencal fabric designs were heavily influenced by Indian textiles. These were first imported to France through the ports in Marseille in the 17th century. These Indiennes, as they were called back then, were extremely expensive and owning these textiles was a way to show off your wealth and status. As these imported fabrics became more and more popular, the French silk weaver found that their goods were no longer being purchased. So the weavers of Provence began learning how to craft their own unique rendition of traditional Indian designs. Employing their own Provencal colour schemes and modifying the patterns.

Provencal Designs

Over time, they created a style all their own. And these fabrics are one of the most characteristic images of the Provence dining table. Provence doesn’t shy away from colour. Provencal fabrics are known for their rich and vibrant colours, like bright yellows, deep blues, rich greens, and blood-reds. These vivid colours are reminiscent of the vibrant landscapes, sunny climate, and Mediterranean influences.

The patterns found in Provencal fabrics are also heavily influenced by nature. Common motifs include flowers, such as lavender, sunflowers and poppies. Also found in these patterns are images of fruits, herbs, birds, and insects (especially cicadas). These designs celebrate the agricultural abundance and natural beauty of Provence.

To be fair, many of these fabrics are actually produced outside the country today, but the patterns are still unique to Provence. And you won’t be able to find these designs anywhere else. My favourite combination to buy is a lovely tablecloth and some matching (or contrasting) placemats. Napkins and placemats also make for great presents to bring home as gifts.

Savon de Marseille

You’ll often see rows of rainbow-coloured soaps decorating different market stalls. These aren’t just any soaps but the iconic Savon de Marseille. The production of Savon de Marseille dates back several centuries. Savon de Marseille holds a special place in the world of soap-making. It is renowned for its simplicity, gentle formulation, and rich history. The soap is made primarily with olive oil, creating mild, hypoallergenic soap. In addition to this, the bars contain no synthetic fragrances, dyes, or preservatives. 

The soap is often stamped with markings indicating its origin and authenticity. These markings typically include the “Savon de Marseille” logo. As well as the percentage of oils used in the soap. 72% olive oil is considered the highest quality. Despite not using synthetic fragrances, they are myriads of different scents. Each one is made using natural oils that enhance the natural smell of the soap. Getting these soaps directly from the market, so close to their manufacturer, means you can get such a high-quality product at a low cost. I love buying these in bulk and giving them out as gifts!

Fruit Jam

As mentioned above, Provence is home to some of the best fruits you can get anywhere in the world. And lucky for you, even if you aren’t there when your favourite fruit is in season, you can taste the essence in their fruit jams and spread. These are also great to bring home to keep the flavours of Provence in your pantry year-round. While the plain jams are wonderful, my favourites are those with herbal and floral flavours. Peaches and thyme or apricot and lavender and even strawberry and basil are just some of the delicious concoctions these Provencal chefs have bottled to perfection!

Provencal Street Art

Buying street art in Provencal Markets is a remarkable opportunity to connect with the vibrant artistic heritage of the region. And to also support local artists. Provence, known for its picturesque landscapes, has long been a source of inspiration for artists. But no one made Provence more famous than Vincent van Gogh.

During his time in Arles and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, Van Gogh created some of his most iconic works, capturing the essence of the region’s beauty through his unique artistic style. And today, many artists are still doing the same thing. Street art is usually fairly cheap, yet these little vignettes capture some of your favourite spots in Provence. A wonderful memory to bring home and hang on your wall. I always look for their works in progress on tables nearby to assure myself that the works they are selling as their own. And not just mass-produced printings.

Provencal Pottery

Provençal pottery adorned with vibrant colours and intricate patterns is something you can bring home to remind yourself of your travel every day. Provencal Pottery has been made here since Roman times. And over the years, they have developed a signature style of pottery. The most common type is terra cotta, made from the red clay most commonly found in the region of Roussillon. The style may vary slightly, but Provencal pottery generally relies on those vibrant reds, yellows and greens to decorate the flatware. A reflection of the landscape of Provence. While plates and bowls are great, my favourite pieces are the ornate olive oil cruets or olive dishes. These remind me of the olive groves in Provence and make my table spread feel all the more special.

Market Day Tips

BYOB | Bring Your Own Bags

Before leaving for the market, always bring high-quality reusable bags. Other than some thin plastic bags for the produce, sellers won’t typically have bags for you to use, as locals know enough to bring their own. If you prefer to buy yourself a Provencal market bag, they always carry a variety of those at most markets. These are generally made in Morroco but are beautiful and the perfect way to carry your groceries.

If you prefer to bring your own bags, my tried and tested recommendation are the bags from Baggu. These delightfully patterned bags are some of the strongest reusable bags I’ve ever owned and also, when not in use, fold up into these tiny little squares. So they won’t take up extra room or weight in your suitcase. All the more room for souvenirs!

How to Escape the Crowds

A day at the busy market day can get overwhelming. There are so many people, and often some of the streets the market is held on are very narrow, and you can feel like cattle, all squished together. Especially for those who can get anxious in crowds, which I totally understand, there is one thing I recommend when faced with this situation. And that is to quickly duck down a side street. The streets where the main market stalls are located are surrounded by many smaller alleyways and narrow pedestrian lanes. I was amazed in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue how after walking along a side street for less than a second, I went from hundreds of people to a few silent locals wandering the cobblestones. It went immediately silent and is bliss for those needing a minute of peace.

What to Pack for the Picnic

As mentioned throughout this post, my favourite way to wind down after a busy day at the market is with a picnic. If you are going to have a picnic in town after your shopping, there are a few items I always bring with me. Here is my list of Provence picnic essentials

• Wet wipes or napkins
• Disposal forks and butter knives (you can find great ones made of bamboo)
• A good bread knife (also good to slice sausage and fruit)
• Wine bottle opener (if you plan on having wine)
• If you want to sit on the grass, bring a nice big blanket
• Bring your reusable water bottles to drink out of, or dump them out and pour in some rose wine!
• A small plastic bag for garbage (you’ll often get these with your produce, but be sure you keep one as we don’t want to be littering visitors)

 No need for plates; just lay your food out on the wrappings they are often packaged in. It’s family style; just grab what you want! But if you feel like you need plates, be sure to bring some paper plates with you.

Embarking on a visit to a Provencal market is an experience like no other. Hopefully, by following this ultimate guide, you can unlock for yourself the secrets to shopping like a local and fully immerse yourself in the vibrant culture and flavours of Provence. Whether you’re seeking the perfect ingredients for a picnic or searching for unique souvenirs, these markets are a treasure trove of authentic Provencal delights.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

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About L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is known as the “Venice of Provence” to many locals. Moss-covered water wheels sparkly in the morning sunlight. These water wheels are an important historical icon of the city. Back in the 12th century, the rivers were primarily used for fishing, which was the biggest industry in the city. The first houses built in the area were built on stilts, just like in Venice! Even today, the village still honours their fishing heritage by hosting a festival on the third Sunday in July. Its hosted by the brotherhood of Pescaire Lilien (fishers of the Isle) and features demonstrations of the ancient fishing techniques. If you happen to be in the area around the time of the festival, don’t miss checking it out!

Water Wheels

After the fishing industry disappeared and moved closer to the coasts, the city turned to the textile industry. They used the river to power the water wheels used for silk, tanneries, and paper mills. There are still 14 remaining water wheels around the city, and it’s really fun trying to find them all as you explore. I’ve added them all to the map in this guide if you want to easily find them all.

Today the industry is primarily powered by antiques and sightseers perusing the ancient streets. Gorgeous, rustic french houses are still on show on either side of the river. They seem to beam with excitement, green trees hang over sidewalks and even the alleyways smell of freshly baked bread permeating the air.

Table Of Contents

1. About L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
   • Water Wheels
2. Where is the Market?
3. When is the Market?
4. Getting There
5. How Long to Spend at the Market?
6. Bring Cash
7. French Tips
8. Self-Guided Walking Tour of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
   • Café de France
   • Place de la Liberté
   • Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges de L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
   • Rue Rose Goudard
   • Quai Jean Jaurès
   • Avenue des Quatre Otages – Antique Market
   • What to Avoid in the Market?
   • Picnic in Public Garden

Where is the Market?

The Market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is located along the Sorgue river in Southeastern France. Just west of Avignon in the Vaucluse région of Provence. The gorgeous market is located around the Place de la Liberté, Place Ferdinand Buisson, Rue Carnot, Rue de la République and on Place Rose Goudard.

When is the Market?

The Market is held every Thursday and Sunday, but the Sunday market is far superior. On Sundays, you can find what the french call a “brocante” also called a flea market! Some market stalls open as early as 6 am, but most stalls will open around 8 am and close at 2 pm. The cheapest prices of the day can be found just before closing as sellers often try to get rid of their produce before heading home.

Getting There

By Train

If you are planning on taking the train, the station is a short walk from the market. I prefer taking the train if I’m staying nearby as this means you never need to worry about finding a parking spot! You’ll want to find trains on their way towards L’Isle-sur-Sorgue—Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. Luckily Avignon has a direct train to L’Isle-sur-Sorgue, which only takes 36 minutes. From other cities like Arles, Marseille, Aix-en-Provence and Orange, the trip is just over an hour with a straightforward change. Tickets cost anywhere between 10€ and 30€ depending on your starting location.

By Car

L’Isle-sur-Sorgue is located at the intersection of the D31, D901 and D938 highways. This makes it an easy drive from a myriad of surrounding towns. The only downside of driving is finding a parking spot but that can easily be remedied by arriving early.

Parking

Parking is a premium, so I would advise arriving before 8 am. This ensures a nice spot close to the market and less stress! Watching the vendors magically unfurl their goods into a full-on shop front is one of the best parts of the day. If you arrive late, there often aren’t parking spots available. So you’ll find yourself driving around and around, waiting for someone to leave. If all the vendors are still setting up, head out to find an open coffee shop. I highly recommend Café de France! After nabbing some caffeine and a snack, find a quiet spot on the grass along the river. Here you can enjoy a bit of quiet before the hustle and bustle of the busy market erupt.

Remember: be sure not to leave any valuables in your car. Since this is a popular tourist spot, there is always a chance that someone could break in. Best to make sure not to give them any reason to do so and keep the interior empty.

How Long to Spend at the Market?

I would advise at least three hours to spend in the market. The antique area alone is bound to cast a spell on you. You’ll find yourself just immersed in a treasure hunt! And making your way around the food market and creating your own DIY picnic is the best way to enjoy the goodies you find along the way. Rushing in and out doesn’t allow you to truly appreciate the amazing things on sale in this charming market.

Bring Cash

If you’re waiting for the market to open, be sure to stop by an ATM. Or bring lots of cash with you. The vendors will almost always only accept cash, and it’s good to get enough to last you throughout the day. Since it gets so busy here, it is common for ATMs to run out of money by midday. Keep that in mind.

French Tips

One key thing to making good with the vendors is knowing a bit of French.  Although the vendors interact with tourists often, it’s nice to show them a bit of respect. Even a simple please (s’il vous plaît) or thank you (merci) goes a long way. And a warm greeting of “bonjour” is required to be considered polite. If you want to ask the price of something, simply say “c’est combine?” And remember if you don’t want to interrupt or be extra considerate, you can always say “excuse moi” before trying to interject. All these little sayings will go a long way to indear yourself to the vendor for even trying!

Self-Guided Walking Tour of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Café de France

To start your morning in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, head to grab a coffee at the somewhat famous Café de France. This Art Nouveau coffee shop is the oldest cafe on the Isle, and you can feel the historic atmosphere just walking inside. The counter is stained with water rings from orders past and the charming posters on the walls reflect the ages gone by. Large tarnished mirrors between dark wooden panelling make this place a quintessential brasserie.

If there’s space on the outdoor terrace grab a table. The people-watching opportunities here are amazing, as you can catch vendors on their way to the market, arms full of their goods ready to be set up! Although the food is slightly overpriced, this is often the price you pay to dine inside history!

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Place de la Liberté

Place de la Liberté is one of my favourite little streets in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. So even if you don’t find you need a coffee, I still implore you to walk along this street to enjoy the incredible street signage and old French shops. Colourful window shutters line the second floors, while wrought-iron awnings protect the gorgeous painted exteriors along the street!

Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges de L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Walking along Place de la Liberté you have a view, albeit from the side, of the great Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges de L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. While the exterior is a bit austere, you absolutely must head inside! Even if just for a moment, you need a quick peek at the incredible architecture found within.

The original Romanesque church was built in 1222. But the shock and awe of this building lie in the baroque-era decorations that adorn almost every surface inside. Gilded altarpieces, detailed sculptures, ribbed vaulting, rich paintings and fantastical frescos awe and inspire the visitors. As you enter, your eyes will be darting all over the room, trying to take it all in! Although we came here for the market, this church is NOT to be missed, even if just for a moment.

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The primary colour scheme within the church is blue and gold, a popular pairing for baroque Provençale.

Rue Rose Goudard

Head back outside and along the Place de L’Eglise. Often there are a few stands just starting to open up along this street. More appear as you continue south-east along Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. But the largest selection of fresh food can mostly be found collected along the Rue Rose Goudard. Seasonal fruit and vegetables, charcuterie and olives pour out of charming wood and thicker baskets under brightly coloured awnings. Vegetables almost beam with brilliance they are so vibrantly coloured. You can’t help but want to try a piece of them all!

What to Buy in the Market?

So what to buy? One of the best things to do is gather items for a picnic luncheon. Fresh sausage is one of the best items in the market. Packed with incredible spices and made from some of the best meats in France, these cured delights are a must-grab!

The produce is some of the best in the country here in Provence. Melons, peppers, strawberries and cherries are as bright as they are juicy. Vendors often have samples out in front, so you can try whichever one catches your fancy.

If you’re looking for something to bring home, there is an assortment of olive oils in beautifully designed bottles. But if you just want something to nosh on today, olives are another great Provencal treat! Plus, they are a great addition to the rest of your picnic goods. You can combine all different varieties, perfect for sampling a bit of everything. 

The French are KNOWN for their cheese and bread! There perhaps isn’t a more iconic image of French dining. The cheese on offer here in the market is just as good as any luxury grocery store and often twice as fresh.

If you’re staying for a few days, grab a bouquet of flowers to brighten up your hotel room. The smell and colours are unforgettable!

Quai Jean Jaurès

As you continue wandering towards the Sorgue River, you’ll exit onto Quai Jean Jaurès. This street is where the market continues but where it transforms into more souvenir-type items. Everything from wooden kitchen utensils, textiles, handicrafts and clothes can be found here.

Dried lavender is sold in bags and bouquets all over the market. This is the perfect souvenir to bring home. In a sachet, it keeps the clothing in your drawers smelling fresh and of those memories from Provence. Grabbing a bundle of dried lavender is great to display but can be hard to transport home in one piece!

Soap is another thing you’ll see hundreds of shops selling. All in different designs and prices. Check to see if it was made in Provence before buying! You want the real thing. There will often be a discount if you buy in bulk, making great gifts for anyone back at home.

Avenue des Quatre Otages – Antique Market

The pop-up antique brocante vendors are located on the south side of the river, along the Avenue des Quatre Otages. A tip for shopping here is that haggling isn’t common and neither is getting a good deal. But the selection is great, and I found plenty at prices I thought were more than fair for the quality. The prices are often very well labelled, so even if you don’t speak French you should be able to shop without having to ask to vendors for pricing. Remember, if you see something you love, buy it right away. As it might be gone before you have the chance to return.

Best Antique Finds?!

Although things like furniture might not be able to fit into your suitcase, there are lots of smaller items which are worth considering. Many different vendors sell beautiful prints taken from old manuscripts and books. Once framed, make for a one-of-a-kind souvenir. 

Textiles are another great thing to keep an eye out for. Napkins, tablecloths, purses and blankets are often beautifully embroidered. They are sometimes even monogrammed – so keep an eye out, and you might even find one that matches your name!

What to Avoid in the Market?

Now, what are the best items to buy in the market? And what to avoid? The stuff to avoid is quite obvious – anything that isn’t decidedly French. Keep an eye out for “made in China” stickers on clothing, ceramics and even some textiles. I was surprised how many pieces of pottery I came across that were simply painted and not provencal in the slightest bit.

Picnic in Public Garden

After grabbing all you can carry, head back down the river and find a nice spot under the trees in the Public Garden. The park features tons of grassy patches to lay out with your delicious selection of the day. On Sundays, musicians stroll around, playing to entertain the visitors.

Along the river’s edge, painters are set up with their oils and pencils. Sketching the iconic scenery. Watching them work while enjoying your French meal makes for a darling little afternoon treat. Listening to the water wheels peddling in the distance.

This brings us to the end of the self-guided tour of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. If you want to extend your stay, consider simply wandering through the backstreets. While the market might have the biggest draw, the charming little houses in some unassuming back alleys contain some of the most iconic French sights you’ll see in Provence. Bright window shutters contrast the aging patina of the beige buildings. Cheerful street cats prowl around every corner. Secrets to be found wherever you go!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Ultimate Guide to Spectacular L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Market [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Access and Admission

The Carrières de Lumières is located 800 m from the Château des Baux-de-Provence, 15 km north-east of Arles and 30 km south of Avignon. You can access it By road on the A7 motorway (exit Avignon), A9 (Nîmes) and A54 (Baux-de-Provence). The Carrières are less than 10 minutes walk from the village of Les Baux-de-Provence, so you can easily get there if you are parked near the village.

Tickets for the Carrières de Lumières can be purchased as a combined ticket with your entry to the castle. The combined ticket costs €17.5 for adults, €16 for seniors, €13.5 for children & students and €50 for families (2 adults and 2 children). Kids under 7 are free.

If you are looking just to see the Immersive Exhibition, tickets are €14 for adults, €13 for seniors, €11.5 for children and students, €39.5 for families (for 2 adults and 2 children) Kids under 7 are free.

The Immersive Experience

The show changes every year but always combines famous paintings from a particular artist with modern music and dynamic light projections which encapsulate the entire room into a mesmerizing exhibit. There are over 2,000 digital images projected onto over 7,000 m2 inside the quarry. 

The projections cover the entire space from floor to ceiling. Viewers can walk around the whole time as different parts of the quarry display different designs and experiences. But if you want to relax you can find one of the many benches or sitting areas and simply sit to enjoy the show. The program is around 20-30 minutes long but I would advise staying for at least 2 cycles to make sure you experience all different aspects of the exhibit from various parts of the quarry.

The Artists

When we visited the show on display featured artworks from Bosch, Brueghel and Arcimboldo. The show featured a fantastical musical score by Luca Longobardi using music from Led Zeppelin. The combination of the antiquated artworks with modern music was one of the most innovative parts of the show.

Bosch, Brueghel and Arcimboldo were all artists who focused on the shifting nature of good and evil. Carefully curated pieces all combine together to create a seamless story of the variant nature of humanity. 

In addition to modern music, the paintings themselves are animated and move as they are being projected. This brings these paintings to life in a way they’ve never been seen before. Even the slightest movement turns brings history to life.

Hieronymus Bosch’s paintings which are so detailed are blown up larger than life along the walls and ceilings. From this perspective, you can inspect the works close up. You’ll discover elements of the paintings you’ve never been able to see before. Check the website to see the theme they are presented this year. Or just show up and let yourself be surprised! No matter who the artist is, the love and passion the curators have for transforming the space and bringing art into people’s lives in a new perspective is always an absolute treat.

Les-Baux is a place you cannot skip on your travels through Provence! And a visit to see the Carrières de Lumières makes it all the more special. I hope you get the chance to experience everything this region has to offer for yourself.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Why You NEED to Visit the AMAZING Carrières de Lumières in Les Baux first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.