Maybe you know someone who just missed out on travelling to France this year, or perhaps you are just looking for some unique gifts fit for a queen! In our previous post all about the court of Versaille’s Christmas traditions, we talked a lot about how to celebrate in style. But what about the gifts? Here are 11 memorable gifts, all inspired by the pastel princess herself, Marie Antoinette.

#1 Hot Chocolate

Maire Antoinette would start every morning with a fresh pastry and a cup of hot chocolate. Chocolate was one of the most trendy inventions in Versaille’s court. Everyone drank it like it was the ambrosia of the gods. While a cup of hot cocoa was considered a luxury in 18th century France, instant hot chocolate mixes make for the perfect stocking stuffer!

For something exceptional, try the luxury brand from Christopher Elbow which has a variety of exclusive drinking chocolate. Drinking chocolate is made from melting a bar of chocolate and it much more rich and thick than instant powdered versions. My favourite is the spiced gourmet blend made with Valrhona dark chocolate and blended ancho and chipotle chilli-cinnamon for a spicy little kick!

If you’d prefer to provide the ingredients for a make-your-own kit, buy premium dark chocolate and add in some orange blossom water. Orange blossom hot chocolate was the invention of Marie Antoinette’s court chocolatier and her personal favourite flavour.

#2 Marie Antoinette’s Tea

To taste a little bit of history, you should pick up an adorable tin of Marie Antoinette’s tea blend. Nina’s is a tea house that dates back to 1672. The founder Pierre Diaz, worked as a perfumer to the Court of Versaille. He was so well-loved and successful that years after serving inside the palace, he opened his own tea and patisseries company. Marie loved his creations and had them brought to her room almost daily.

The very same company still produces the Queen’s tea blend to this day. This blend is made with apples, and rose petals picked from the King’s Garden at Versailles! While the tea is a real splurge, the beautiful tin that it comes in makes for a lovely little decoration. Even long after contents have all been drunk.

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#3 Black Jade Perfume

Perhaps the most intimate gift is the Queen’s own fragrance; Black Jade Perfume. This perfume, made by Lubin, was designed to replicate the aroma made by royal perfumer Jean-Louis Fargeon. Fargeon had this perfume developed solely for the Queen of Versaille herself. Jean-Louis Fargeon was inspired by all the flowers which grew in Marie’s beloved Trianon garden. It contains the heady aromas of rose, jasmine, and bergamot.

The name Black Jade comes from the legend that Marie would carry the perfume around with her everywhere she went. She kept it on her person at all times, inside a black jade bottle. Apparently, this bottle of perfume was one of the few items she was allowed to keep while imprisoned before her eventual beheading. The sense of smell is closely linked with memory, probably more so than any of our other senses. It can bring back memories long forgotten, and perhaps with this scent, you can even try to imagine the memories of the great Queen herself.

#4 Baroque-Inspired Shoes

Marie Antoinette was something of a clothes horse. Her yearly clothing allowance in modern figures works out to be around $3.6 million a year! She was known to change her clothes at least three times a day. And you’d have to in order to wear all those clothes! Recently, one of the Queen’s shoes, which had been in the same family for over 227 years, went up for auction. It sold for a whopping $50,000. And not even for the pair!

Luckily for us, we don’t have to fork up $50,000 for something quite similar. So many modern clothing and shoe designers have been inspired by the pastel princess. Brands like Hot Chocolate Designs and Irregular Choice have long been inspired by Versaille’s frills and extravagant fashions. These shoes are a wonderful gift for someone who longs to feel like she belongs in an 18th-century palace! While inspired by vintage trends and forms, they still feel modern enough to wear every day or on fancy occasions. Perfect for Christmas!

#5 Bath Time Luxuries

Marie Antoinette was famous for having baths. In the 18th century, it was very uncommon to bathe, especially as frequently as she did. Marie would have a bath every morning. Famously, she would bring pastries and tea into the tub to enjoy while relaxing in the water. As such a public figure, I imagine this private time she had to herself would have been quite essential for her sanity. As is my own bathtime routine, is the best part of my day too

Marie would put various perfumes, essential oils, herbs and even flowers into her bath to make it as luxurious as possible. Modern-day Marie Anoitnette’s would love a gift set from LUSH. Their Winter Wonderland gift set contains rose and other floral scented products that will make bathtime a dream.

#6 Night Gowns

Seeing as Marie Antoinette was a fan of dressing, even her nighttime routine was sumptuous. She would wear a beautiful nightdress every evening and was known to bathe in her nightgowns as well. These fancy nightdresses have been starting to make a come back. Perhaps with the explosion of popularity of Schitt’s Creek and Moira’s stylish pyjamas. More and more companies like Sleeper have been designing trendy night clothes that could also be worn out and about during the day. Their Atlanta dress is truly one of the most spectacular nightgowns, and thrown on with a belt, you’d swear it wasn’t loungewear at all! Suppose you are looking for something a little less pricey. In that case, even Amazon has a wide selection of vintage-inspired nightgowns, giving you that old fashioned baroque feeling.

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#7 Hair Accessories

As is evident from the incredibly elaborate paintings of Maire Antoinette, her hair was just as lavishly done up as any other part of her body. Her hair would often be so tall that she would have to kneel while riding in her carriage. Her court hair stylish Leonard Autie would decorate her hairdos with additional wigs, jewels, and even figurines. To give yourself a bit of the Marie Antoinette look without kneeling on the floor to get around, you should check out places like Etsy, which carry vintage hairpins or bejewelled clips. These are easy to add to any kind of hairdo and really bring a touch of elegance to your look.

#8 Blush Palette

One of Marie Antoinette’s lasting impressions was her makeup. She was responsible for the crazy of painting the face with white lead-based paints and decorating this now blank canvas with beauty marks, red lips and the iconic round rosy blush. To give someone those perfectly, peachy pink cheeks, this charming blush palette is just the trick. With the name Champagne & Macarons, how much more Marie Antoinette can you get?

#9 Seeds for the Garden 

Marie Antoinette loved to play pretend in the gardens of Versaille. There she would tend to her little plants and animals, imagining what it would have been like to be a peasant. Perhaps the imagined simplicity of their was something she was jealous of. An experience away from the rigours and rules of the court. Her little Trianon’s lifestyle of ease brought great comfort to the Queen even while it was miles away from the real struggles of the citizens of France. To create your own version of Marie’s Petite Trianon garden, buy some seeds ready to plant in the springtime. In times like these, growing and caring for your own plants is something of great pride and enjoyment to have in the confines of your own home.

If you’re lucky enough to live in a warmer climate, you can get started right away! Seeds like squash, cucumbers, lettuce and chard are very simple to grow. They are a great starter vegetable for anyone wanting to learn how to get a green thumb. If you are looking for seeds for a flower garden, consider the Versaille cosmos as a flower plucked right from Versaille. It is resilient and easy to grow and full of colour and life, just like Marie herself.

#10 Orange Blossom Water

The Orangerie in Versaille was one of Marie’s favourite places to escape. She loved the grove and the scents emitted from the trees. So much so that she asked everyone from her bakers, perfumers and chefs to incorporate orange blossom water into a myriad of her favourite things. The Queen was known to drink orange blossom water in her hot chocolate as a way to cure her nerves. But orange blossom water is good for more than just nerves. You can use it to tone the skin just as you would rose water. Or throw some into your bath for soft, glowing skin. It is such an inexpensive yet versatile gift.

#11 Macarons

While Macarons may not have been eaten in the palace of Versaille, a myth perpetuated by Sofia Copolla‘s film Marie Antoinette, they are nonetheless something that feels iconic of the great French Queen. Although the macaron dates back to 1533, that version of the macarons was much more straightforward. It was made with almond paste, not almond flour, and was filled with a simple ganache. There were no pastel colours or delicious fillings.

It wasn’t until 1930 when Ernest Laudurée (founder of the Laudurée pastry shops) brought new life to this traditional classic. From then on, macarons have been one of the most popular desserts in France. They have almost become an iconic symbol of the city. So even though Marie Antonette wouldn’t have eaten them, there is no doubt they feel like she would have if she lived today. So I say go on and enjoy a few macarons no matter the historical accuracy. They are too delicious to pass up. And if you can find some with red and green colours they look amazing on your Christmas table. Laudurée even offers gift boxes of their iconic macaroons online. So as long as there is a Laudurée near you, you can have a package of macarons delivered right to your door this Christmas.

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I hope these ideas give you some inspiration for gifting this year. Even in the confines of your own home, these treasures will perhaps soothe that inflamed wanderlust. And with them, your giftee will be able to feel like they are travelling to the halls of Versaille. Let me know in the comments what you’re planning on gifting this year and if any of your ideas are inspired by places you’ve travelled or are dreaming of one day visiting.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post 11 Unique Holiday Gifts Inspired by Marie Antoinette first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Force Interactions = Intimacy

In tourist hubs its easy to just into a chain Supermarket and checkout without ever saying a word or even having to really interact with anyone. But staying in one of these little known villages, compared to the tourist hubs means you’ll experience a side of rural France you won’t get in the larger cities. Almost no one speaks English here, so you have to get by with French or non-verbal communication.

And while this might sound frightening to some, it really makes you interact with the locals at a more intimate level. This extra time involved in interactions means you really get to know them, and them you. Below is our local fruit market. A mother and son were always working the till when we visited and it was great to get to know them as we would stop in for something different everyday.

The Price

Staying in a small town means you’ll save a ton of money and get a lot more space. We rented an enormous, renovated 17th-century manor house which felt like we were staying in a castle! The house was huge and we had so much fun just wandering around the grounds and discovering new hidden features of the stone edifice. We had our own private pool, 5 bedrooms, a beautiful dining room and outdoor eating area and best of all, an absolutely jaw-dropping view across the Luberon valley. And all of this for under $230 US a night, which worked out to just under $46 per person. While you can definitely find hostels cheaper than this, for the size, amenities and incredible location you really can’t find better for the price than in a small town.

Local Restaurants

Eating at local restaurants, which don’t aim to cater to tourists, gives you the chance to eat what the locals eat. The menus are almost all in French but the staff was always incredibly kind in helping us figure out what everything was and what to order. They seemed so happy to have us visiting their restaurant and were so proud of their cuisine and getting the chance to share it with us. I assume that while serving the same people day in and day out is a lovely routine, it must be exciting to show off to some newcomers.

Local dishes are astonishingly simple yet tasty since everything they use is grown nearby and the freshness adds to the flavor. Here, you’ll be paying small town prices, you’ll find glasses of wine here are almost half as much as they would be only an hour away in Avignon. You might find it hard to pull yourself away from the bar at those prices and the ridiculously good wines this region has to offer. We came to know the restaurant owners by name and when we left they hugged us goodbye. While I LOVE eating at astonishing Michelin star restaurants which you can find in the big cities, I don’t think you’ll ever find the charming kindness which you’ll receive in places like Merindol.

People are Curious

You get a lot of attention being the new person in a town which only has a population of 2,000. While that attention might not be for everyone, we found that we were absolutely dotted on. They knew us right away, even if they hadn’t met us before, since we were the only ones in town they didn’t recognize. They were keen to show us different parts of village their favourite baked good and even little details about the history of the town.

The Architecture

Small towns have a style of architecture all their own. They never had the finances to hire the best architects or spend thousands on the most expensive materials. But that doesn’t mean they were influenced by all those popular styles seen around the world. They brought those trends to their home town, made by local artisans and in a style unique to that maker. Lack of urbanization and modernization also means that many of these towns permanently feel lost in the past, in the most romantic way possible. The same cobblestones which lined the streets when there were horse-drawn carriages are still there today, the indentations of the wagon wheels still apparent if you look close enough.

Peace and Quiet

While a relaxing vacation might not be for everyone, a small town makes you unwind without you even knowing it. Everything there is done at a slower pace and you have to just give in to this atmosphere. I’m someone who loves to go-go-go but I found that here in Merindol, I found myself just wanting to sit out on my balcony, looking out over the valley, enjoying the sunset. Although we did head out of town throughout the week, almost all of us chose one or more days to just stay at the house and enjoy our home-away-from-home. Sitting up on that balcony, reading the antique books I found on the dusty shelves will still be one of the most powerful memories I hold close to my heart from that trip.

Discovery

A small town in France like Meridol doesn’t have a lot of “activities” listed on TripAdvisor nor do they fill chapters in guide books. There isn’t even much information online (although I’m working on my own post about this amazing place). This means that it’s up to you to discover things for yourself. We found a little path near our house and set off to explore. When we got to the top of the path we were surprised to find a historic site with a plaque in French all about the area.

We had to then translate every word to figure out the history of where we were standing and were mesmerized by this incredible story of war and loss which was just a stone’s throw from our house.Learning about this piece of history was so exciting since we hadn’t read about it before or even knew it existed. This same thing seemed to happen every time we took a walk, we would wander across a stunning vista or find the most charming little church. They might not have been things we knew were but we certainly were thrilled to discover them.

Be Your Own Chef

One of the possible downsides of small towns is that there are very few restaurants and there is always at least one or two days a week when they are closed. But I don’t really see this as a true downside, I see it as an opportunity! The lack of places to go out for dinner means you have to cook for yourself! While many of us go on vacation to avoid cooking, there is something exciting about going to the local market and seeing what the seasonal produce is around. Buy whatever looks delicious. I wouldn’t worry too much about making a “recipe” per se, instead, buy up items to make a little picnic at home.

Fresh Food Shopping

My favourite foods from Provence were fresh fruit from roadside stalls, a loaf of soft crusty bread from the bakery along with a few of their favourite desserts. Get some cheese from the man down the road who sells it out of his kitchen fridge. Olives and cured sausage from the corner store are a perfect accompaniment. There are shops selling wine from wineries around the region in every small town, stop by and pick up their favourite. Together this makes for a laid back meal you can enjoy in the comfort of your rental home. Kick your feet up and recount your favourite memories from the trip thus far staring out across the vivid landscape.

While staying in a small town on vacation might not be for everyone, you do need to be able to rent a car since most of these tiny towns don’t offer public transport, there is absolutely a delightful charm they hold. The silent streets you’ll have all to yourself will call your name to come back soon. I know they still call my name and I can’t wait to visit them again.

The post The Best Reasons to Visit a Small Town in Provence and Skip the Touristy Towns first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

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Van Gogh was born in Zundert but spent one of the most important years of his life as a painter in Arles, France. Arles and the provincial countryside inspired Van Gogh to create brighter and more exciting landscapes. This walking tour will wind you across the city, through its narrow, quaint and beautiful cobblestone backstreets. Our journey takes us along the Rhone River and into the various picturesque squares that Arles is famous for. The walking tour will show you the various works of art that Van Gogh painted while living in Arles and the buildings he frequented as a resident of this historic city. 

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Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Accommodation
3. Access
4. Walking Tour
5. The Alyscamps
6. Jardin d’Eté 
7. Roman Amphitheatre
8. Rue Voltaire
9. Restaurant Carrel
10. Yellow House
11. Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône
12. Musée Réattu
13. Vincent van Gogh Foundation Arles
14. Place du Forum
15. Le Café Van Gogh
16. Old Arles Hospital
17. The Bridge of Trinquetaille
18. Get the Downloadable PDF of the Van Gogh Arles Walking Tour!

History

Roman Arles

Arles, a large city in the French region of Provence, has a long history that dates back to Roman times. Back then, it was one of the most important cities in the Empire. There are signs of occupations as early as 800 BC. The Romans took over the town in 123 BC and continued to enrich the city with their incredible architecture and infrastructure. Emperor Constantine I built the Roman bathhouses. His son, Constantine II, was born in Arles as the emperor had made it a home away from home. In 408 BC, the new emperor Constantine made Arles the capital city of Rome. Arles became a cultural and religious centre throughout the late Roman Empire.

For hundreds of years, the city of Arles continued to hold absolute authority over those in power. Arles joined the countship of Provence in 1239. Due to its proximity to the river, it was a mighty trade city. But in the 19th century, with the advent of the railroad, its significance began to diminish. The town became stagnant, with little to no modern development.

Van Gogh Comes to Arles

But this relic from the past was precisely why Van Gogh was so drawn to the city. The city was full of memories yet peaceful enough to feel like an escape. Everywhere he looked, it seemed as if something was waiting to be discovered.

Sadly, after years of poverty and suffering from various mental illnesses, Van Gogh committed suicide at age 37. But this was not the end of his story. Despite not being appreciated during his lifetime, his impact in the history books is unmatched. And Van Gogh’s stories from Arles put the city back on the map. After years of almost being forgotten, the city suddenly was a hot spot for visitors trying to follow in his footsteps.

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Accommodation

If you want to spend a night in Arles, the best place to stay is the little B&B, L’aubergine Rouge. This little hotel is tucked away in the southwest corner of Arles on one of the most darling streets you’ll ever wander down. They have several rooms inspired by the painter where you’ll feel like you’re sleeping inside of his paintings.

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Access

Most people arriving in Arles arrive either by car or by train. Arles is just an hour from Marseille, 35 minutes from Nimes, and 40 minutes from Avignon if you rent a car. Often you’ll find if you are travelling from either Nimes, Marseille or Avignon, the train is often an even faster journey than driving! So long as the departure and arrival times align with your plans. The train from Nimes is 30 minutes, Marseille takes 45 minutes, and Avignon is only a 20 minutes journey. Most days, trains arrive and depart about every hour from these cities.

If you are driving into Arles for the day, the best place to park your car is in the Parking Garage near the Post Office. This is just on the outskirts of town, meaning you won’t have to drive through too many narrow streets. Since it’s a little outside the centre, you also won’t have to pay a huge mark up for being in the middle of town. This parking lot is very reasonably priced and right beside the first stop on our tour.

Walking Tour

The Alyscamps

The first stop on the walking tour is the Alyscamps Necropolis. The Alyscamps is one of the oldest Roman ruins in Arles. Roman cities didn’t allow burials inside the city limit for fear of dead infecting the living. Therefore, roads into the city were often lined with tombs and mausoleums. And the Alyscamps was THE place to be buried! People had bodies shipped from all over Europe for the honour of being buried here. 

But during the middle ages, when it became more traditional to be buried in a church graveyard, the Alyscamps fell out of fashion. In the Renaissance, old roman sarcophagi were given as gifts to visiting dignitaries. And others were looted by local thieves. All of this contributed to the Alyscamps falling into disrepair, and eventually, it was a forgotten piece of history. The site was wild and overgrown and yet a naturally beautiful environment.

When Van Gogh arrived in Arles, it was still a ruin. He painted four scenes here in 1888, sitting in front of the ancient Roman ruins. Paul Gauguin was staying with Van Gogh during this period. Although their relationship was fraught with hardship, it also inspired the best in both artists. Van Gogh gifted one of his Alyscamps paintings to Gaugin. And even lost past his death, this painting hung in Gaugin’s room for years. Since Van Gogh made it famous once more, the UNESCO World Heritage group has turned it into a heritage site. And restored much of the place to be appreciated by visitors once more.

Jardin d’Eté 

Walk north along the Avenue des Alyscamps and turn left down Avenue Victor Hugo. On the north side of the street, you will begin to see the bright green grass of the Jardin d’Eté starting to peek through. 

The Jardin d’Eté is a relaxing urban park situated against the backdrop of the ancient Roman amphitheatre. There are dozens of fountains and playgrounds, so it’s a great place for kids to have a nice runaround.

For Van Gogh, it was a place he would often come to paint on sunny, summer days. In a letter to his sister, he wrote of the gardens in the park:

I don’t know whether you can understand that one may make a poem by arranging colours…Similarly, the bizarre lines, purposely selected and multiplied, meandering all through the picture may not present a literal image of the garden, but they may present it to our minds as if in a dream.

Van Gogh

Roman Amphitheatre

Walk north along the pathways in the park until you can exit to the east of the Roman Amphitheatre. You’ll walk out onto Rue Porte de Laure. Continue walking along until you reach the imposing Roman Arena. Built in 90 AD, the amphitheatre was capable of seating over 20,000 spectators. People would come from far and wide to watch chariot races and bloody hand-to-hand battles. Unlike the Colosseum in Rome, this amphitheatre is still used for concerts and festivals to this very day.

Vincent went to many bullfights in his time in Arles. He wrote to his friend: 

Have seen bullfights in the arenas. The crowd was magnificent, great multicoloured crowds. One on top of the other on 2, three tiers, with the effect of sun and shade and the shadow cast by the immense circle.

Van Gogh

Van Gogh painted a scene in 1888 entitled Arena in Arles. The painting is more focused on the spectators than the action or environment. It is a rough and tumble painting. Quick brush strokes and unfinished shapes are obscured in the background. The speed of the painting reflects the voracious atmosphere of the bullfights. A small bull can be seen off in the distance. Spectators are excitedly turning to chat with their neighbours and cheering for their favourite fighters.

This jittery motion used throughout the painting was a technique that Van Gogh perfected under Gauguin’s influence. His paintings of dance halls also had the same, almost unfinished approach. This technique conveyed to the viewer the idea that some spaces were filled with such powerful energy they simply couldn’t be captured in a moment of stillness.

Rue Voltaire

From the arena, walk north along Rue Voltaire. Walking down this street is like taking a step back in time. Dozens of vibrant cafes and restaurants pour out onto the street. Dazzling awnings hang off ancient stone buildings. Pastel shutters brighten up the rainiest day. You will see so many little scenes as you walk, which could have stepped right out from one of Van Gogh’s paintings.

Restaurant Carrel

When you reach Rue Léon Blum, turn left and stop on the corner of Rue Amédée Pichot. When Van Gogh first moved to Arles, he stayed in a room above the Restaurant Carrel, owned by Albert Carrel and his wife. Vincent wrote to his brother Theo when he arrived in Arles:

At times it seems to me that my blood is more or less ready to start circulating again, which wasn’t the case lately in Paris, I really couldn’t stand it anymore.

Van Gogh

Shortly after arriving in Arles, the lack of creativity he experienced in Paris disappeared. With his creative spark alight once more, he painted View of a Butcher’s Shop. One can imagine that this butcher shop perhaps was painted from the very room he stayed in. Walking up and down this otherwise ubiquitous street gives you a sense of the area Vincent first called home in Arles.

But Van Gogh didn’t live on this street for long as he often had mighty disagreements with his landlord. While he might not have loved his landlord, he did love the neighbourhood. It wouldn’t be long until Van Gogh would soon move into his iconic Yellow House, which was just up the street.

As you near the end of the Street, Rue Voltaire turns into Rue de less Cavalerie. You will pass through the two giant aged guard towers. These towers are surrounded on either side by the ancient city walls.

Yellow House

Across the roundabout, at the corner of Rue Georges Tinarage and Avenue de Stalingrad, is a simple restaurant. But this was once where you would have found Van Gogh’s beloved home. The same one featured in his painting The Yellow House. 

The original house had four rooms and a small studio. Vincent painted the entire building bright, sunflower yellow. In the painting, you can see a train rushing by in the distance. These trains were Vincent’s way into the countryside, his beloved muse. More than any woman. He loved the city, but the wild sunflower fields, blossoming fruit trees, charming peasants and golden wheat fields were where his brush came alive.

Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône

Turning left, make your way towards the Rhone River. Here you’ll find the scene from painting Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône. Don’t get this mixed up with Starry Night, although they are both very similar and show Van Gogh’s obsession with capturing night effects. In a letter he wrote to his brother Theo, he said:

Often it seems to me the night is even more richly coloured than the day.

Van Gogh

Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône is an explosion of blue; Prussian blue, ultramarine and cobalt. Each one of these colours are contrasted with intense orange and yellow. The firery colours representing the gas lights reflecting in the water. A man and his wife walk along the shore away three boats, bobbing in the water. Whereas Starry Night is a dreamlike fury of brush strokes, Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône is a much calmer scene. The brush strokes are evenly spaced, and even the lights on the water are still. Not a single ripple seems to disturb them.

Musée Réattu

Continue walking down the water’s edge. The fantastic pedestrian promenade is ideal for taking in all the sights along the river. After about five minutes, you’ll reach the Musée Réattu. When Van Gogh lived in Arles the museum was a place he hated. He is quoted as saying:

The women are beautiful here, it’s no joke — on the other hand, the Arles museum is dreadful and a joke.

Van Gogh

Van Gogh was very judgmental of other artists. Perhaps out of jealousy of those who seemed to manage to make the kind of living, he would never. During his lifetime, he only sold one painting. He couldn’t understand how people could see the greatest in these artists and not himself.

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Vincent van Gogh Foundation Arles

As a cosmic coincidence, the Vincent van Gogh Foundation in Arles is located only a few minutes south of the Musée Réattu. In 1983, Yolande Clergue founded the Association for the Creation of the Foundation Van Gogh. He was a long-time resident of Arles and believed there should be an institute to study and educate people on Van Gogh’s influence on modern artists in Provence. In 2010, the city of Arles gave the historic Hôtel Léautaud de Donines to the institute. It was renovated to become an educational space.

The museum features a large collection of Van Gogh’s letters and perhaps one or two original Van Gogh paintings. Don’t come here expecting to see those famous works of art. The museum is meant to highlight modern artists influenced by Van Gogh and the city of Arles.

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Place du Forum

Walking along Rue du Dr Fanton and turning down Rue de la Place, you will come up the Place du Forum. The Place du Forum was once the historic city centre during the Roman ages. You can still see one of the ancient columns embedded into the side of the Nord-Pinus Grand Hotel.

Vincent’s fixation on the appearance of the world at night continues and is highlighted in Café Terrace at Night. He said in a letter:

In the past, they used to draw, and paint the picture from the drawing in the daytime. But I find that it suits me to paint the thing straight away. It’s quite true that I may take a blue for green in the dark, a blue lilac with a pink lilac since you can’t make out the nature of the tone. But it’s the only way of getting away from the conventional black night with a poor, pallid and whitish light, while in fact, a mere candle by itself gives us the richest yellows and oranges.

Van Gogh

Le Café Van Gogh

Despite Vincent’s lack of popularity in his lifetime, Van Gogh is big business these days. Le Café Van Gogh is a recreation of the original cafe from the painting. Although it’s not the authentic spots from the painting, it has been done up to look as much like the real thing as possible. While the square is pretty busy and expensive, it is also a stunning place to sit with a coffee and enjoy the scenery. 

Old Arles Hospital

Walk south from the forum until you reach the Old Arles Hospital. One evening, after Gauguin had made it clear to Vincent that he had made plans to leave, Van Gogh returned home alone. Suffering from hearing voices, especially when left alone, Van Gogh was tormented. In a fit of madness, he cut off his ear. Perhaps as a means to cut out the noise of the voices. Van Gogh bandaged the wound and wrapped the ear in the paper. He delivered it to a cleaning woman who worked at a local brothel that Gaugin and Van Gogh frequented together.

Van Gogh was found unconscious by a policeman and taken directly to the Old Arles Hospital the following day. Félix Rey, a young doctor still in training, treated him inside his hospital. Van Gogh was diagnosed with “acute mania with generalized delirium during his time in hospital.” Vincent would go from being semi-lucid to suffering from hallucinations and delusions. His brother Theo came to visit him in hospital despite getting engaged the day previous. Nothing would keep Theo from being by Vincent’s side.

Hospital in Arles

Dr. Rey felt sorry for Vincent. He would allow Vincent into the courtyard to paint on his more lucid days. And paint he did. Even today, this courtyard manages to bring a sense of peace to even the most scattered mind. The golden walls seem to glow in the sunlight. The garden is full of lustrous flowers which burst open in the afternoon. Van Gogh’s painting, Hospital in Arles, depicted the courtyard in 1888. Looking at it today, you can barely see the passage of time between the two.

Ward in the Hospital in Arles

He also created two other paintings during his stay in the hospital. One was a gift to Dr. Félix Rey. It was a portrait of the beloved doctor who showed Vincent genuine kindness. The second painting is entitled Ward in the Hospital in Arles. The scene is quiet and simple. But Vincent’s slight distortions represent the isolation and confinement while living here. 

Starry Night

In 1889, Van Gogh was committed to the Saint-Paul de Mausole asylum in Saint-Rémy de Provence. From there managed to channel his pain into one of the most impactful paintings, Starry Night. This painting is all about dreams versus reality. The natural versus the divine. It brings us into the beautiful madness inside Van Gogh’s mind. In his mind, he lived in the stars, beloved and looked up to by everyone on earth. The swirling, fluid paint in the sky contrasts the rigid city landscape below. Like a window into the heavens, a wonderful dream, unlike our structured reality. 

The Bridge of Trinquetaille

Walking back towards the river, walk up the water’s edge. Here you can see the scene from the painting of The Bridge of Trinquetaille. Van Gogh was in love with bridges. They are frequently featured in his works. In a letter to his brother, he wrote:

I have a View of the Rhône — the Trinquetaille iron bridge, where the sky and the river are the colour of absinthe — the quays a lilac tone, the people leaning on the parapet almost black, the iron bridge an intense blue — with a bright orange note in the blue background and an intense Veronese green note. One more effort that’s far from finished — but one at least where I’m attempting something more heartbroken and therefore more heartbreaking.

Van Gogh

Walk out to the centre of the Pont de Trinquetaille, where you’ll have a beautiful view across the Rhone River. Looking out, see if you can spot all those magnificent colours Van Gogh spoke about in his letter. Van Gogh is an artist whose use of colour is unparalleled. He saw the world in a way that many of us simply miss. Take this time to yourself. Put away your phone or camera for the moment and simply look over the horizon.

While Van Gogh’s depression was something he couldn’t overcome, there is no doubt that, at least for a time, Arles gave him a momentary respite from the overwhelming sadness he felt in his soul. And no matter who you are, I hope that visiting Arles brings you the same sense of peace Van Gogh felt when he was here. You may even see a little bit of that magic Van Gogh etched into history. And bring a little bit of that magic home with you too!

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