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14 of the Best Places to Visit in Coyoacán to Spend the Perfect Day in Mexico City

The Creative Adventurer — Fri, 27 Sep 2019 11:50:00 +0000

Coyoacán is one of the most colourful and yet quiet neighbourhoods in Mexico City. This district of Mexico City is the place I come to escape the crowds and relax in some of the most beautiful parks and meander down the most vibrant streets. Coyoacán was the home of Frida Kahlo throughout her entire life. It’s no surprise why she chose to stick around this bohemian community rather than move into the bustling city centre. Every park, house and street corner is busting with energy and natural artistry.

Table Of Contents

Access
History
#1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
#2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán
#3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza
#4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán
#5 Learn about Mexico's Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares
#6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul
#7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated
#8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho
#9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán
#10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa
#11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina
#12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
#13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán
#14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, Line 3 to Coyoacan Station, but the station is a bit of a walk from the main areas of the tour. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, and mythology with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer the land they controlled.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores in 1519 the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexicas, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and gardens.

#1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

#2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours. They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions.

The Monastery

The monastery is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

#3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th-century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

#4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán

The Mercado de Coyoacán has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, marketplace was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Shopping in the Market

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan ! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shtrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

El Borrego de Oro

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

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#5 Learn about Mexico’s Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares

The National Museum of Popular Culture is one of the most vibrant museums you’ll visit anywhere in the world. Rather than old painting or ancient relics, the museum focuses on temporary exhibitions which rotate and change throughout the year. They call themselves a living entity. There is always something new to see. But regardless of what is on exhibition, there will also be items featuring expressions of popular, indigenous and urban cultures. The museum is a great place to come to learn about Mexico’s current culture and art scene.

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#6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

#7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

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#8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick-me-up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

#9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán

This ice cream shop across from the park has been serving up traditional flavours of ice cream inspired by the many different fruits which grow only around this part of the country. Don’t recognize the name or a certain flavour? Give it a try! You might be totally shocked to find a new favourite flavour, even if you had no idea what it actually was. This is an especially good treat if you’re visiting on a hot day. Grab a few scoops and relax under the shade of the park nearby.

#10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán. Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

#11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina

The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

#12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings!

There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century. In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple.

#13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

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#14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

The Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives has 30 different movie theatres housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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Best Walking Tour of Historic Coyoacán, Mexico City

The Creative Adventurer — Thu, 12 Sep 2019 20:37:07 +0000

Coyoacán was once a sleepy neighbourhood outside the centre of the city where no tourists would ever think of entering. But since the Frida Kahlo craze and her rise to fame, this neighbourhood which was once her home, has since become and a must-see destination for anyone visiting Mexico City. Many people visit Coyoacán on a bus tour simply to see the Casa Azul and leave shortly after. I implore you to block off an entire day to wander these streets! Take some time to discover the hidden secrets of the oldest neighbourhood in Mexico City.

This guided walking tour will lead you across the all the important stops in Coyoacán. I think to take it at a leisurely pace, leave yourself a whole day so you can take your time and go inside a few of the stops along the way. A google map with all the locations on the tour can be found at the bottom of this post.

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, but the station is quite far away from our starting point. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City. The journey takes around 25 minutes depending on traffic.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer land.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores of Mexico in 1519, the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexican tribes, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. Cortés established himself in Coyoacán with the tribe he had become close with. He brought with him much wealth and Coyoacán bloomed as one of the most beautiful villages in the world, not just in Mexico. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can still find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and lush green gardens.

Map Of Walking Tour

Begin at: Frida Kahlo Park

Wake up bright and early and head on down to the start of your tour, Frida Kahlo Park. Since Frida is the most well-known resident of the neighbourhood, it seems fitting to start our journey here. This square honours the memory of the great Mexican painter. You can find a bronze sculpture of her with a full Tehuana dress, standing proudly in the centre of the plaza. Beside her, is her husband, Diego Rivera, looking on lovingly. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned and geometric shapes, resembling those of Aztec pyramids forming the archway overtop of the pathway.

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Plaza de la Conchita

Early in the morning, this peaceful square is practically empty. Only a few tamale sellers might be seen passing through on their way to hot spots in the centre of Coyoacán. In the middle of this square stands the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception Church, or “La Conchita“. La Conchita is a nickname for the church which literally translate into, “the little shell”. Although the church is now closed for restoration work, walking around this plaza will still provide an excellent introduction to the neighbourhood.

When the Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes arrived in Coyoacán, he built this Church on what once was a pre-Hispanic ceremonial site. This was where Cortes held the very first Christian mass in the new land. The building’s exterior has an incredible stonework patterned facade, meant to resemble a the texture of a shell. The restoration taking place is attempting to repaint the church the same canary yellow as it once would have been coloured.

Casa de la Malinche

Walking north along the park, along Higuera street, you’ll pass the Casa de la Malinche. Although not open to the public, this house is thought to have been initially built for Cortés’ Spanish wife, Catalina Juárez de Marcaida. ‘La Malinche’ is the Spanish word for ‘the captain’s woman‘. Catalina Juárez de Marcaida was murdered in this very spot as she was seen to be a traitor to her people and even sometimes blamed for the downfall of the Aztec empire.

Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

Calle de Higuera

Walking along the Calle de Higuera, up towards our next stop, take some time to observe the houses and buildings on either side of the street. This is one of the oldest streets in the city. Many of these homes were built in the colonial era and have been catalogued for their historical value.

Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

Church Interior

They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions. The monastery portion of the church is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

Centenario Plaza

Spend some time wandering the two adjoining parks, the Centenario Garden and Hidalgo Plaza. The gated entrance to the Jardin del Centenario is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. It was once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

In the centre of Centenario Plaza is a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below. Underfoot, the street is paved with red and black volcanic stone from Mexico.

Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

Casa Municipal

Across from Hidalgo Plaza, you’ll find the Hernan Cortés house or Casa Municipal. It was built in the 18th century as an administration building for the government. Although called the Cortes house, the conquistador never lived here. He did in fact life in Coyoacán from 1521 to 1522 but never on this property, even though a placard on the building says he did...the original fake news I suppose. Perhaps he simply spent so many hours inside these walls that people simply assumed he must live there.

Cortés resided on a piece of land once owned by the indigenous leader of Coyoacán, Juan de Guzmán Iztolinque, located where we now find La Conchita Church. The current incarnation of the Casa Municipal was built in the 18th century by Cortés’ descendants. The building was where the government of Coyoacán did all their business until 1928 when this district was absorbed as a municipality of Mexico City.

Mercado Artesanal

Across the street from Hidalgo Plaza is the yellow archway entrance to the Mercado Artesanal Coyoacán. While this artist market is less impressive than the Mercado De Artesanias La Ciudadela, the courtyard of the Artesanal market here well worth checking out for the beautiful ‘papel picado’ (pecked paper) which hang from either side of the small garden. The prices in this market are actually very reasonable (sometimes cheaper than in the city centre), but the selection isn’t extensive. I did find some beautiful glass work which I hadn’t seen anywhere though so you really never know what you’ll find. And if this is your only opportunity to visit a market in Mexico City than this is a great opportunity.

Mercado de Coyoacán

Head north along Aguayo and turn down Ignacio Allende where you’ll spot the terra cotta roof tiles of the Mercado de Coyoacán. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, market place was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Market Stalls

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

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La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Museum

Leon Trotsky House Museum

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Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick me up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

Le Bipo

If coffee won’t suffice and you’re looking for something a little more intense, head across to Le Bipo, across from Allende Park. This hip bar is a stylish place for an afternoon drink and some great people watching. For something really unique, try the Mauricio Garcés, a mezcal and with frozen pineapple soda, topped with chili powder.

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Churreria General de la Republica

On your way back towards the western part of down, you’ll pass back from through the Jardin Centenario once more. Across from the park is the Churreria General de la Republica which sells some fantastic churros, served up with a variety of dipping sauces. I love a churro but I think I love dipping them even more! If you’re hankering for a snack, this is a great place to stop for a quick break and take a seat in the park.

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La Casa Del Coleccionista

Right around the corner from the churros bakery is La Casa Del Coleccionista. This little shop sells antiques of all kinds. You can find everything from flatware, toys, paintings, vases, coins and more! Even if you don’t leave with anything, this place is like visiting a museum of Coyoacán’s ephemera.

Avenida Francisco Sosa

Casa De Diego De Ordaz

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Italian Cultural Institute

Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

Parque Santa Catarina

For a quiet break, stop off in the Parque Santa Catarina. The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings! There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century.

Frida and Diego Statue

In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. Behind the walls of the garden, to the south, see if you can see the rooftop of La Callejón del Aguacate. This house is one of the most haunted in the Coyoacan. It is said to be haunted by the ghost of a woman and is a frequent place where local school children will be seen ghost hunting after hours.

Barricas Don Tiburcio

Continuing along Avenue Francisco Sosa, stop in at one of the most adorable groceries stores, Barricas Don Tiburcio. This boutique shop sells the finest wines from all around Mexico, if you’re a big wine fan, they are very well versed in the different varieties and can send you home with a real winner. They also sell delicious handcrafted Mexican products such as Oaxaca cheese, grasshoppers, prickly pear candies, peanut jams, queso chihuahua and more!

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Fonoteca Nacional

Towards the end of Avenue Francisco Sosa you’ll come upon the colourful Fonoteca Nacional, also known as the “House of Sounds of Mexico“. This beautiful building and the tranquil gardens which surround it, is the perfect place to come and wander to see if anything is going on. There is often free concerts or exhibitions happening in the various rooms, so it’s worth poking your head inside to see what’s going on.

Viveros de Coyoacán

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Centenario 107

After a long walk through the park, it’s time for dinner. Stop off at Centenario 107 for a laid back, colourful dinner. Colourful both in the atmosphere, decor as well as the food! There is an excellent selection of traditional delicacies as well as local craft beers and speciality mezcals.

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Cineteca Nacional

Our last stop on tour, as the sun begins to set is at the Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives. This 30 screen movie theatre is housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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Guide to Ginkaku-ji, The Silver Pavilion Kyoto

The Creative Adventurer — Fri, 17 May 2019 12:55:00 +0000

Kyoto has two famous pavilions; Ginkakuji (The Silver Pavilion) and Kinkaku-ji (The Golden Pavillion). Kinkaku-ji is the most famous and striking of the two, and as such, it is OVERRUN with tourists, no matter the season. But The Silver Pavillion, close to the peaceful Philosopher’s Path, is much less busy and slightly more accessible. Visiting this place early in the morning is the perfect way to find your zen in this amazing city. Inside Ginkakuji, you’ll find the great Silver Pavillion, half a dozen other small buildings, a moss garden, a reflective pond and the sand garden.

Table Of Contents

Access
Hours & Admission
History
Why is it called the “Silver” Pavillion
Architecture
Entry
The Sand Garden
Hondo
Togudo
Moss Garden
The Reflective Pond
Lookout Point

Access

This Zen temple is located along Kyoto’s Eastern mountains. You can easily access the Pavillion by bus on #5, 17, or 100 from Kyoto Station. The ride takes about 35-40 minutes and costs 230 yen one way. The Silver Pavillion is located along the Philosopher’s Path, so combining this visit with that one is a great way to spend a relaxing morning.

Hours & Admission

Ginkakuji is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm March to November and from 9:00 am to 4:30 pm from December to February. There are no closing days, so even during the holidays, you can still visit. Admission into the Pavilion is 500 yen.

History

The Silver Pavillion was built in 1482 for the Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa. It was made for him to spend his retirement in a serene and relaxing environment. The architectural designs of the temple are significant as they are one of the best representations of Higashiyama architecture of the Muromachi period. Unfortunately, the Shogun only had the chance to spend a few years here as he passed away in 1490. After his death, the villa was converted into a Zen temple for the people of Kyoto.

Why is it called the “Silver” Pavillion

Although it is called the “Silver” pavilion, surprisingly enough, there was never any silver anywhere to be found. Initially, the main building was supposed to be coated in silver, just as its sister building, the Golden Pavillion, was covered in gold. But the Shogun ran out of money during construction, and that great silver architectural icon was never to be. But the designers would not give up so easily. They painted the main building with a dark coat of paint so that at night the black paint would reflect the moonlight, giving the building the appearance of glowing silver in the light.

Architecture

The Silver Pavillion was built by combining two distinct architectural styles, seamlessly blending Japan’s art history. Each shingle on the roof is made from Japanese cypress trees. Bamboo nails secured the bark, as metal nails would rust and ruin the wood. Inside the Pavillion is a precious statue of “Kannon,” the Buddhist goddess of mercy, to whom the Shogun would pray each night.

Although this is not viewable to the public, you can imagine how important it would have been to be housed in such a grandiose place. Despite the pavilion’s relative simplicity, a profoundly artistic aesthetic can be found here. The Japanese have perfected the ideology of grace in restraint, and this is one of their best examples.

Entry

When I arrived, I was one of the first people to get there. Only a few other couples were huddled outside the gates, waiting to get inside. Before letting people in, one of the caretakers sprinkled water on the stones along the entry. This wasn’t to clean the stones but to spiritually cleanse them. Just as people wash their hands before entering a temple, they do the same for the grounds themselves.

The Silver Pavilion is the first thing you’ll see when you come inside, as it is the largest building on the property. A circular path will lead you through the grounds, and as you go, you will have the chance to see the pavilion from all different angles. Discovering something unique, something new or something amazing as you do so.

The Sand Garden

The bright white sands of the Sand Garden are among the first things you’ll see upon beginning your tour around the grounds. It is better known as the “Sea of Silver Sands.” In the centre of the meticulously manicured rows of sand is a grey cone called the “Moon Viewing Platform,” symbolizing Mount Fuji.

Since we were there so early in the morning, we saw the caretakers raking up the sand and placing it carefully in pristine rows. They would gently pick up fallen leaves, find rogue stones out of place, and delicately put them back where they belonged.

Hondo

Beside the sand garden lies the “Hondo” (the main hall). Although this building cannot be entered, you can still admire the exquisite wood carvings, dainty sliding doors, and paintings on the exterior walls. This building was where Yoshimasa studied the art of the tea ceremony. He was obsessed with creating the ideal setting and process for a tea ceremony and spent his retirement perfecting this performance. The tea room he designed would become the prototype for all future tea ceremony spaces. The doors are often left open a sliver, enough to peek inside to see some of the greatness he created.

Togudo

Beside the main hall is the Togudo. This was the Shogun’s study. The entire room was covered in tatami mats to create a comfortable zen-like environment for people to come and meditate.

Moss Garden

After the study, you head up the small hill which backs out on the grounds. This path will lead you to the moss garden. This garden was supposedly designed by the great Japanese landscape architect Sōami.

Inside the moss garden, you feel as if the world has disappeared. A little steam dribbles down the hill. Tiny bridges arch over the stream, and you can wander around, studying all the various plants which decorate the landscape.

The Reflective Pond

The reflective pond sits beside the moss garden. Manicured trees grow around it, reflecting into the glass-like water. The bright green colours of the trees are so vibrant it’s hard to believe it’s real.

I was the first one to venture into this area, and one of the caretakers was still walking around the paths, cleansing the pathways with holy water.

Lookout Point

From the back of the moss garden, a set of stairs will lead you up to the hill and towards a lookout point. At the top of the path, you can see over the tops of the buildings below and throughout Kyoto. The view is stunning, and even for people who might not be interested in the temple, this view will surely entice you to come and visit this magical place.

On the way down the path, you finish the circular walkway around the grounds and will once more pass by the Silver Pavillion. This is your last chance to look at it, this time a little more closely. See if you can spot any hidden details with which the architects have littered the exterior.

If you’ve never understood what ‘zen’ is, this is the place to find it. Zen is derived from the Chinese word ‘Chán,’ derived from the Indian practice of dhyāna or “meditation.” Zen is about self-control and finding insight into the nature of things. While it can be hard to make a quiet space in your hear when you’re travelling, try your best when you’re here to get in touch with that aspect of zen; sit in silence for a few minutes and reflect on the feeling of the world around you and be grateful for this amazing journey you are on.

What is your favourite place in the world to find Zen? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Guide to Ginkaku-ji, The Silver Pavilion Kyoto first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Step into the Serene World of Tenryu-ji Temple: Your Guide to Arashiyama’s Amazing Hidden Gem

The Creative Adventurer — Thu, 17 Jan 2019 13:41:00 +0000

Inside the Arashiyama bamboo forest, you’ll come across Tenryu-ji temple. The temple grounds are known as being one of the most beautiful in Japan and their famous gardens. Its zen-like atmosphere was just the thing we were looking for as an escape from the throngs of people who were started to filter into the famous Arashiyama Bamboo grove. If you’re visiting Arashiyama, this is the place to come to experience peace and explore the traditional and cultural histories of the city.

Table Of Contents

Access
Admission and Hours
- Special Admission to the Dharma Hall
History
Hyakka'en garden
Chōzubachi
Views from the Shrine
Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden
Dragon Gate Falls
The Sand Garden
Rinzai School of Zen Buddhism
The Teaching Temple
The Hojo

Access

Tenryu-ji is just a short walk from the Keifuku Arashiyama Station. If you’re travelling directly from Kyoto Station though the best way to access the temple is from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station. From JR Saga-Arashiyama Station it’s only a 5-10 minute walk to the temple. The ride from Kyoto station is about 20 minutes long and costs 240 yen.

Admission and Hours

There are two options for ticketing when you come in. You can pay 500 yen ($5 USD) to enter the gardens only or pay an extra 300 yen ($3 USD) which will allow you to also enter the interior of the building. The price difference is pretty minimal, and for anyone interested in Japanese architecture and Buddhism, purchasing the interior ticket is worth the extra cash. The temple is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm 365 days a year.

Special Admission to the Dharma Hall

Please note that Dharma Hall requires an additional admission fee of ¥500. The Dharma Hall is open on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays only, and during specially designated periods during the spring and autumn. The Hatto (where the Cloud Dragon is located) is closed to the public on December 31th 2023 to January 2nd, 2024.

History

The Tenryuji temple was first built in 1339 by the ruling Shogun Ashikaga Takauji. Takauji had quarrelled against Emperor Go-Daigo over the supremacy of Japan. When the emperor died, Takauji didn’t have the chance to mend the tensions between the two powerful men. This open-ended disagreement didn’t sit well with Takauji, and so he decided to build the temple in honour of the emperor in the hope of appeasing the emperor’s spirit.

Hyakka’en garden

Walking through the north gate, you first enter the Hyakka’en (flower garden). The Hyakka’en garden is covered in flowering trees, bushes and lush herbs. It was so intensely green and lush. Since it has been growing for over 700 years, it has had the change to no longer feel like it was designed, more like it grew exactly like this. In the flower garden, there was a large bamboo grove where newer bamboo stalks grow. Baby bamboo, you might say

Chōzubachi

As you walk into the temple ground, it is customary that you cleanse your hands. This action will help clean your body and mind. The first step is to pick up the water ladle with your right hand. Then scoop water and wash left hand. Then switch the ladle to your left hand, and wash right hand. Finally, pour some water into your hand and wash your mouth. Spit the water out as rinsing; this is not considered rude as the water is not safe to ingest.

Near the cleansing fountain, you’ll also find a pond full of ceramic frogs where people will throw coins and make wishes.

Views from the Shrine

Before heading around the corner to the large Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden and the main buildings, try taking a walk up the set of stairs to the left of the gardens. This is large hill gives climbers an incredible view of the garden below, Arashiyama and even the mountains far off in the distance.

Walk up the hill and take in the incredible views from the top. There are several benches up where you can stop and have a little snack. Put away your phones and, just for a few minutes, quietly enjoy the peace and tranquility. Most people run up, take a picture and run back down. But when we visited, we were so happy to find ourselves in a moment of the day when we weren’t in a rush and could just take the day as it came. We listened to the gentle rattle of the bamboo grove behind us and the sound of running water trickling from the fountains below.

Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden

The Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden is one of the most important attractions of the temple. It is over 700 years old, designed by Zen master Muso Soseki. Walking through it is like stepping back in time. The surrounding buildings might have been destroyed by fires many times over the years, but the garden has remained the same. Hundreds and hundreds of years memories encased in the water, sand and trees that surround it.

Sogenchi Teien has been dubbed a “strolling” garden since it contains features which can be explored and appreciated from various areas along a level path. The huge pond which stands in the centre of the temple acts as a giant reflecting pool. Mirroring the mountains and the trees around it.

The garden has long been a place for quiet reflections for the Japanese. In 1799 the garden appeared in one of the earlier sightseeing guides of the area. Inside the book, there was a wood print of what the garden once looked like and shockingly enough, aside from many more people, there isn’t a thing that has changed.

Dragon Gate Falls

Across the pond, you can see Dragon Gate Falls. This is made up of several large stones, symbolizing carps swimming upstream. It is an allegory of an old Chinese myth. It goes that “if a carp can swim up a waterfall, it will be turned into a great dragon.” The story in the centre of the pond symbolizing the carps transformations that come only with enlightenment and encourages all those come here to visit or to study to find the same thing.

The Sand Garden

Beside the pond lies a sand garden which had been raked into perfectly straight lines. These sand gardens were intended for spiritual reflection and helped the monks on-site practice meditation.

Rinzai School of Zen Buddhism

The temple is now the headquarter of the Rinzai School of Zen Buddhism. In the Rinzai Zen school, there is great emphasis put on “seeing one’s true nature”. While walking up and down the pathways, I tried my best to get in touch with my true nature, my inner self. Although I didn’t come to any huge realizations, I did feel deep down a massive sense of accomplishment in being here. When I was sick never thought I would get better. When I was alone and I never thought I would be in love again. And yet here I was, alongside my husband, feeling great and explore a country I never would have seen were it not for him.

The Teaching Temple

Most of the buildings in and around Tenryuji are all reconstructions since fires over the years destroyed the originals and even subsequent constructions. The most impressive of all the buildings is the teaching temple. With so many tourists around it’s hard to forget that this temple is also school and an important one at that. The building which now serves as the school is a 1900 reconstruction. Inside you’ll find the image of Gautama Buddha, flanked by two guardians.

The Hojo

The Hojo is the largest structure in the compound, which is made up of two separate buildings; the Daihojo and the Kohojo.

Daihojo

The Daihojo is used only for ceremonies and other large events. Its iconic veranda surrounds the entire structure, providing a seamless combination of indoor and outdoor space for those inside. The floors inside are covered with traditional tatami mats, and rooms are separated by using sliding bamboo doors. Inside this building, we can also find the famous painting by Wakasa Butsugai of the iconic Cloud Dragon.

Kohojo

The Kohojo building serves as a greeting room for visitors and is not as formal as the Daihojo.

Finish your wander around the temple at the pond, filled with a multitude of koi fish. Looking down the large koi swimming around, it made me wonder how long some of these creatures had been around for. Considering the size of them, I wouldn’t be surprised if lurking under the surface there was one the size of the entire pond who started his life here and is still kickin’ it.

When you’re visiting Japan, there comes the point when every temple starts to look alike, and it can be difficult to figure out which ones are worth the visit. But this temple here surely does. It’s ancient garden and beautiful architecture, which seems to melt into the natural surroundings, is truly unique, and something is not to missed.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

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Uncover the Beautiful Hidden Gems of Kyoto: An Exploration of the Famous Philosopher’s Path

The Creative Adventurer — Wed, 02 Jan 2019 19:46:17 +0000

The Philosopher’s Path (or Tetsugaku-no-Michi as it is known in Japan) is one of the greatest exploratory walks you can experience in Kyoto. The Path is located in the northern area of Higashiyama at the base of Kyoto’s East Mountain. It is a place to wander, to find yourself, to embrace peace and quiet and to see what makes Kyoto so unique as a city. The path follows the Lake Biwa Canal for around 29 kilometres at the base of the mountain. The trail is lined with cherry trees on either side. During the cherry blossom season, this is one of the most popular spots to come and view the spectacle.

Table Of Contents

History
Access
#1. Ginkaku-ji Temple
#2. Hakusasonso Hashimoto Kansetsu Garden & Museum
#3. The Flora and Fauna
#4. Sagan
#5. Dining at Kisaki
#6. Honen-in Temple
#7. Yojiya Cafe Ginkakuji
#8. Spotting Jizo Protectors
#9. Anraku-ji Temple
#10. Otoyo Shrine
#11. Nanzen-ji Temple
#12. Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji

History

The canal was first to build during the Meiji period to power Japan’s first power plant. With this power plant came the revitalization of the area due to electric modernization. The path is named after one of Japan’s most famous philosophers, Nishida Kitaro. Nishida Kitaro would come to this area of Kyoto and walk along the river while he practiced his meditations. He would do this every day on his walk to the University where he taught. Now, his practice is immortalized forever and hundreds of people still walk with him in spirit.

Access

The path is so far away from the centre of the city, and being so close the mountains, even the air is fresher up here. All the better for deep thinking and relaxation. Start your journey along the path either early in the evening or late at night. Tourists flock here throughout the day and the tranquil atmosphere is ruined with you have to fight your way down the sidewalk. To get to the first stop on the Philopher’s Path, take the Karasuma Line to Imadegawa Station. From there get on bus 203 to Ginkakuji-michi. From there it’s a short 5 minute walk to the temple.

#1. Ginkaku-ji Temple

To start the Philosopher’s Path, make your way to Ginkaku-ji Temple. Ginkaku-ji or the Silver Pavillion is known for it’s incredibly preserved Higashiyama architecture and its calming zen garden. If you haven’t visited this temple before, this is a great opportunity to do so.

#2. Hakusasonso Hashimoto Kansetsu Garden & Museum

After visiting the temple, you might also consider seeing Hakusasonso Hashimoto Kansetsu Garden & Museum. Hashimoto Kansetsu was a famous Japanese painter who lived and worked in Kyoto during the Showa and Taisho eras. These days you can tour the former home, studio and alluring garden. Admission for adults is 1300 yen but worth it if you’re into Japanese gardens and art.

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#3. The Flora and Fauna

While walking down the canal, take your time as you walk to admire all the different plants along the route. You’ll pass hydrangeas, narcissus, mugwort, bamboo, Japanese maple and if you’re there in the Spring, lots of cherry blossoms. But plants aren’t the only thing that pops up along the way. I saw all sorts of different animal life like ducks, turtles, bush warblers and a stunning grey heron.

Humongous carp and koi also swim up and down the canal and often you’ll see old men and young children sitting on benches beside the water, throwing bread into feed the fish. Dog walkers are pretty common here, so if you’re a puppy lover, wandering this route will result in lots of opportunities to see local dogs off for a walk.

#4. Sagan

Sagan is a small but quaint coffee and snack shop along the route with charming decor and a back patio, perfect for having a coffee early in the morning.

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#5. Dining at Kisaki

Kisaki along the path, sells fresh tofu! If you’re a fan of this dish, there is no better place to try it! It’s fresh and gives you the perfect punch of energy for continuing on the route.

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#6. Honen-in Temple

Standing in from of the moss-covered gate, you’ll find yourself at the doorway to Honen-in Temple. Honen-in was built in 1680 to honour Honen (1133-1212), the founder of the Jodo sect of Buddism.

Honen-in Temple is especially known for their sand sculptures. Giant mounds of sand are created and flattened on top to allow artists to come to draw different patterns into the sand.

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#7. Yojiya Cafe Ginkakuji

If you need something else to snack on or want to take a break along the way, another cafe worth checking out is Yojiya Cafe Ginkakuji. No cafe in the world might have a better view than this, and their matcha lattes are 100x better than anything you’d get at Starbucks or a vending machine.

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#8. Spotting Jizo Protectors

Along the way, don’t be surprised if you see rocks or stones, etched with kanji characters sitting along the side of the path wrapped in fabrics. These are Jizo, protectors of travellers in Buddism. Local women take care of these Jizo, dressing them and keeping them warm. This is thought to endow these women to the gods for their life after death.

#9. Anraku-ji Temple

If you’re travelling along the path during the fall you can’t miss stopping off at the Anraku-ji Temple. Picturesque maple trees and their bright red leaves fall on mass onto the steps of the temple, creating a red carpet-like effect as you walk up the stairs.

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#10. Otoyo Shrine

The Otoyo Shrine is a smaller shrine off the trail. Most shines are protected by lions, dogs or dragons. This shrine is protected by mice. Otoyo Shrine is named after the deity Okuninushi-no-mikoto, the god of marriage. Although mice and marriage might not seem a likely combination, their presence comes from an old Japanese myth. It tales the tale of Okuninushi who met his princess in another world. The princess was put through many trials and almost perished in a fire, but a mouse appeared and told her of a hole in the ground where she could hide until the fire passed and the princess was saved so she could marry Okuninushi.

Mice are also thought to bring health, long life and happiness. People who come to worship here are said to be blessed with the ability to have a healthy baby.

#11. Nanzen-ji Temple

Nanzen-ji Temple is one of the last temples along the route. It was built in 1291 for Emperor Kameyama on the site of his previous palace. The best thing to see here are the Hōjō gardens.

The Hōjō gardens are one of the best examples of “karesansui” gardens in Japan. They mirror the natural forms of their environment, and unlike many European gardens, they are 90 percent gravel. This might seem odd and ugly but the result is a marriage of the natural environment and the man-made arts. Inside the Hōjō you’ll find Japanese screen painting with golden embellishments by Kanō Tan’yū which are considered a National Treasure in Japan.

#12. Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji

The last temple to see along the way is Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji. Eikan-do is one of the most scenic temples in Kyoto with a collection of Amida Buddas which have been painstakingly restored to their original state. The ground of the temple stretch out for acres, and you’ll see stunning zen gardens, architecture from various periods of Japan’s history and even an overlook at the top of the path with a spectacular view over Kyoto.

This last temple concludes the walk through the Philosopher’s Path. Don’t feel the need to stop off at every stop. If something catches your eye, go exploring. If you’d prefer to just walk along the canal and meditate to the flow of the water, make that your experience. The trail offers so many options, so many places to explore. Take the time to make a pilgrimage here and discover when secrets you can uncover along the route.

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Exploring the Impressive Imperial Palace in Tokyo

The Creative Adventurer — Fri, 08 Sep 2017 01:53:49 +0000

One thing I always do when travelling is to have a picnic in the middle of a popular tourist destination. Preferably early in the morning when you have the place to yourself. There’s nothing like spreading out a blanket or jacket on the grass and settling down to enjoy your morning meal. Beautiful sites surround you, and you’ll be entertained by all the people meandering in to explore. Since we were still a bit jet-lagged, we were able to get up extra early and head outside to walk down to the Imperial Palace Gardens. It was still a little brisk, so we grabbed a few hot vending machine coffees for the stroll.

As we went, we couldn’t stop looking at all the incredible architecture sprawling up around us as we went. There is ALWAYS something to look at in Tokyo. Something you didn’t see before or something new to discover around the next corner.

Before entering the walls of the Imperial Palace Gardens, you must cross the Hibya moat. The sun was out in full force the morning we arrived, and the waters were a brilliant bright green shade. The moat surrounds the entire length of the garden encircling a tall stone wall, once used for to protect the castle.

Today, the gardens are the only accessible part of the Imperial Palace available every day. The Palace is still the primary residence of the Emperor. Their current home is a more modern building as it was finished in 1993 and located in the Fukiage Gardens. Much like Buckingham Palace, it is not accessible to the public except for private guided tours. The public is also welcomed into the residence during the Emperor’s birthday and on New Years as both are huge celebration days in Japan. But the gardens are always open for anyone to walk freely around and explore.

We entered through the Kitahanebashi-mon. This is the northern drawbridge gate. Just past the gate, you’ll see a large stone wall, the site of the old Edo castle. The old drawbridge is now fixed to the ground and provides easy access into the gardens.

Walking inside the first thing we noticed was just how green everything was. Almost blindingly so. Despite it almost being Halloween it seemed like this little oasis had just exploded into springtime.

Maps of the gardens can be found throughout the grounds, or you can opt to walk aimlessly around and discover for yourself all the secrets this garden has to offer. I’m a map nerd and opted for this choice.

We made our way to the centre of the gardens where there was a huge lawn perfect for sitting and looking out at all the different landscapes. We had stopped at 7/11 before arriving and procured some delicious breakfast goods. Breakfast in Japan is unreal. Not just simple granola bars and oatmeal. I bought myself a fresh salmon onigiri; the best handheld treat for any time of the day.

But the onigiri was only the appetiser. For our main course, we’d picked up a 7/11 breakfast bento. A set meal complete with rice, shrimp tempura, smoked salmon, pickled beans and various other things I didn’t even know what they were but tasted delicious. They have these on offer every day in almost every convenience store in Japan, and unlike convenience store food in Canada, this stuff is amazing! Plus, they will even heat it up for you, so it tastes just as fresh as when it was made.

From our spot on the lawn, we had the best view of the gardens around us but also of the city skyline behind the trees. The gardens alone take up over 3.41 square kilometres, so it was great to sit in the middle and have it all surround you.

After breakfast, we started to walk around the perimeter of the garden. Giant tree spilt out over the walkways. These giant trees have been here since the 1600’s. If they only could talk, what stories they could tell…

There were still a fair few flowers out in bloom, soaking up all that sunlight. The Fukiage Garden has all sorts of flora and fauna from all over Japan nestled into this little sanctuary in the middle of a modern city.

On the outskirts of the gardens, giving privacy to the Palace residence were dozens of rows of bamboo. Although it wasn’t as tall as other bamboo forests, it was still fascinating to study these trees in their natural habitat.

Towards the northeast part of the park is the remnants of the old Edo castle. The stones are part of the old watch tower which once stood here. Looking out over the moat and to the city beyond. The castle was originally built in 1638 and at the time had the tallest tower in Japan’s history. But in a short few years, it has been destroyed by the fires that rampaged the city and was never rebuilt.

Beyond the trees to the east of the old tower, stand an octagonal shaped building, covered in bright mosaic tiles. This is Tōkagakudō, Peach Blossom Music Hall. This building is a newer addition to the property, built in 1963. The blue tiles set against the sky make it seem as though the building is disappearing into the skyline.

You could spend almost a whole day here. We found so many little benches and sitting areas where you could bring a book, or a well-charged laptop and relax all day. A great escape to the crowded and busy atmosphere of the rest of the city.

Towards the south end of the gardens are the ancient fruit trees. These fruit trees are very precious as they contain varieties of apples, pears and citrus that have long since gone extinct in other areas of Japan. I wanted to pick the apples off the tree so badly and taste a piece of history….but I’m too scared of getting into trouble.

The pomegranates looked like giant rubies hanging from lush branches.

Even the apples seemed almost too perfectly shaped to be real.

There were tiny purple and green plants that looked like miniature grapes hanging off low-lying bushes. A Willy Wonka like factory full of otherworldly fruit.

Towards the very southern tip of the Garden is the old guard tower. It now stands abandoned behind a locked gate. It seems oddly haunting; one can almost imagine the ghosts of old soldiers still stand on guard at those darkened windows. Locked behind this gate, it is a silently preserved piece of history.

As you leave the gardens, you pass by some of the administration buildings towards the southern doors. Beautifully designed and despite being newer additions, look as if they have been there forever. This building often houses some rotating exhibitions which are free to the public. The one we saw when we were there was a small, but fascinating exhibit on Japanese calligraphy. No photos were allowed but trust me, it’s worth peeking your head inside.

The southern side gate is called the San-no-maru and was mainly used by servants coming and going from the residence when it was first buuilt. Today it lets you out onto the streets and beside the newly renovated Ninomaru pond.

Inside the pond are thousands of koi. Each day they are fed from huge baskets of food lowered into the water at lunchtime. You can see them feeding as the surface of the water becomes almost a solid wall of fish once the food descends into the water.

From the outside, along with the pond, you can see the guard tower from another angle, on the edge of the upraised garden.

As you walk along the moat, you can also see the famous Nijubashi bridge. This bridge is the official entrance to the Palace Residence, and as such, has an element of grandeur and spectacle to it.

The bridge has become a beloved piece of architecture in Japan and is one of the more famous views in Tokyo. The bridge is made of stone with graceful arches and a bright teal copper railing. Green trees with leaves that look like fluffy clouds pop up behind the bridge, and the reflection of the bridge in the water makes it a photographers dream.

The spindles on the bridge look like blooming leaves with a nut hidden inside.

Once we finished at the Imperial Palace, we continued down the road towards Hibiya Park. The road had been completely closed down for a marathon and people were running, biking and walking down the enormous eight-lane roadway. We took the opportunity to walk down it as well and cheer on all the runners.

The imperial palace is the place to be for some peace and quiet after busy days exploring in the sometimes overwhelming Toyko.

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