This summer, while living in Barcelona, I had the chance to review Art Ticket Barcelona. And I must say this pass is the perfect thing for any art lover. If you plan on visiting any three of Barcelona’s premiere museums listed on the Art Ticket Barcelona, then you’ve already paid for the pass in one go. And with the pass, you might be pushed to discover some museums and galleries you might never have thought of seeing before. But many of these might open your eyes to works of art you will come to have a deep appreciation for.

Table Of Contents

1. About the Art Ticket BCN
2. #1. Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya
3. #2. Fundació Joan Miró
4. #3. Museu Picasso
5. #4. The Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona
6. #5. The Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona
7. #6.

About the Art Ticket BCN

Barcelona Art Passport invites you to take a fascinating journey through the art at the six best museums in Barcelona. Discover the finest collection of Romanesque mural paintings in the world, enjoy Modernisme and be surprised by the most contemporary art and creation at the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona and the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona. The universes of Miró, Picasso and Tàpies await you as you embark upon this unique experience. The most obvious benefit of these passes is that you will save 45% off the normal admission price. But you also get to skip the line, which can be a real-time saver, especially in the busier summer months. The pass is also valid for 12 months, so if you plan on returning, it is easily spread out over a longer period.

How it Works

The best way to purchase the Articket is online. Once you’ve purchased your ticket online, simply exchange it for your Barcelona Art Passport at the ticket desk of any Articket museum. Then enjoy the experience of seeing the best art in Barcelona!

As someone who loves pieces of ephemera, I was so gleeful when I saw them stamp my actual art passport in each museum I visited. I loved collecting all the stamps as we went!

If you’re unfamiliar with some of the museums and galleries on this list and are considering buying the pass, I’ve given you all the details about each museum. As well as some of my favourite artworks in each space. This piece better helps you understand the culture and history of the Catalan people, as well as the artistic movements that put Spain and Barcelona on the map!

#1. Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya

The Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya sits in the towering Palau Nacional that looks over the city like an artful guard tower. The Palau National was the piece-de-resistance of Barcelona’s 1929 International Exhibition, so even just visiting the museum building itself is an experience. The Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya is the largest museum in Barcelona. It exhibits the world’s finest collection of Romanesque murals. Included in the collection are some fantastic paintings by influential Spanish painters El Greco and Diego Velázquez. It is also a wonderful place to visit to see beautiful examples of Catalan Modernism, with works by Gaudí. To end the experience, head to the roof, where you can enjoy 360º views of Barcelona.

Frescos of Church of Sant Climent de Taüll

The most important artworks to see in the museum are the Romanesque frescos. These incredibly preserved artworks from the Church of Sant Climent de Taüll were painted 1000 years ago! If they had been left in their original location they would have been lost to the ages, but art collectors and historians managed to move the fresco, by striping them off the walls and reproducing the exact same architectural details of the original churches here inside the museum. Here they will rest for ages to come in an environment which will assure their safety for hundreds of years to come. These frescoes are still as vibrant and the faces of the people painted on them still astonishingly emotive. It’s amazing to see the amount of colours used throughout and makes the world of thousands of years ago that much more amazing.

The Spanish Wedding by Marià Fortuny

Going ahead a few hundred years in Spain, we find ourselves in the middle of Catalan Modernism. Marià Fortuny is one of the most important Spanish artists of his era. He is best known for his incredibly detailed paintings, which provide an almost photo-realistic view of what life would live looked like in Spain in the 1800s. In this painting, we see the scene of a wedding party assembled to sign a wedding contract. Surrounding the group are textiles and furnishings which give us a glimpse in the styles popular at the time. Seated to the right of the wedding party are lower class groups of lower class people, highlighted with a bull-fighter in full regalia.

Address: Parc de Montjuïc, 08038 Barcelona
Hours: From 10 am to 6 pm, from Tuesday to Saturday.
Until 8 pm, from May to September.
From 10 am to 3 pm, Sunday and public holidays.
Closed: Mondays (except public holidays), Jan 1st, May 1st, Dec 25th

#2. Fundació Joan Miró

The Fundació Joan Miró is an internationally renowned museum where visi­tors can enjoy and learn more about Joan Miró. Joan Miró’s imaginative and abstract art, characterized by playful shapes, vibrant colours, and dreamlike symbolism, blurs the lines between reality and fantasy, incorporating elements from his Catalan heritage and personal experiences. He was a pioneer in surrealism and contributed significantly to 20th-century modern art. 

The Fundació is an exceptional building designed by the architect Josep Lluís Sert. It stands inside the Parc de Montjuïc, and you can enjoy magnificent views over Barcelona. So even a trip up here will provide you more than just a visit to a museum but also a fantastic view of the city.

Catalan peasant in the moonlight

Catalan Peasant in Moonlight evokes two recurring themes within Miró’s body of work: the connection between humanity and the earth, symbolized by the peasant figure, and the mystical allure of the night, represented by the moonlight. The fusion of man and the earth becomes evident through the shared use of the colour red, both for the peasant’s face and the exposed portions of the landscape. However, in Miró’s artistic universe, the boundaries between sky and earth blur, highlighting their interdependence. This interplay results in a harmonious exchange: the peasant’s attire adopts the hues of the night, while the sky assumes the tones of the field. Additionally, the moon’s shape hints at a sickle, imparting a poetic layer of meaning to the scene.

Pair of Lovers Playing with Almond Blossoms

During the 1970s, Miró began to explore larger and more ambitious sculptural projects, receiving notable commissions for outdoor pieces, which he enthusiastically embraced. Pair of Lovers Playing with Almond Blossoms embodies a minimalist approach, featuring simple shapes adorned with vibrant colours, suggesting that the larger sculpture closely adhered to the smaller original model. The artwork portrays two abstract figures within an enigmatic, perhaps surrealist, realm.

One figure is a tall cylinder with yellow and reddish sections, crowned by a blue spherical shape embellished with prehistoric-style abstract motifs imbued with symbolic significance. The second figure is a tall structure with a pointed blue element leaning away, accented by a red, claw-like feature around its midpoint. This element could be interpreted as a hand reaching out to catch the ball perched atop the other figure, though further exploration is required for a definitive interpretation.

Address: Parc de Montjuïc s/n, 08038 Barcelona
Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday, from April to October, from 10 am to 8 pm
Thursday, from 10 am to 9 pm
Saturday, from 10 am to 8 pm
Sunday and public holidays, from 10 am to 3 pm
Closed: Mon (except public holidays)

#3. Museu Picasso

The Museu Picasso of Barcelona is the reference centre for Pablo Picasso’s formative years. The 4,355 works of the Muse­um’s permanent collection reveal the genius of the young artist. The Picasso Museum of Barcelona is filled with a piece of Picasso’s work before he discovered Cubism, but many of which lend hints of what’s to come. Some people might be disappointed not to see any of his more famous pieces, but I think this collection is unique and truly personal to this city. We’ve all seen, at least in photographs, most of Picasso’s classic paintings, but these hidden gems are something you’ll only find in Barcelona. And they give us a glimpse of a young, burgeoning Picasso.

Science and Charity

At first glance, Science and Charity looks like it was painted by Goya or Fortuny. You’d never have imagined that a painting with such attention to realistic detail and subtle tones would be from the same man who later was defined by primitive geometric shapes and powerful colours. As a child, Picasso was a prodigy, and his father encouraged him to enter this piece into a competition, launching his career into the stars, where it would only expand from there.

Las Meninas Series

Pablo Picasso’s series of paintings based on Diego Velázquez’s masterpiece “Las Meninas” is a notable example of his exploration of art history through reinterpretation and reinvention. Picasso created a total of 58 paintings, drawings, and studies inspired by Velázquez’s iconic work between 1957 and 1961. In these reinterpretations, Picasso reimagined the characters and elements of Velázquez’s composition in his distinctive Cubist style, which he had pioneered earlier in the 20th century.

The original “Las Meninas” depicts members of the Spanish royal court, with a young princess at the center and various attendants and courtiers around her. Velázquez’s painting is celebrated for its complexity, use of mirrors, and exploration of perspective. In Picasso’s versions, he fragmented and deconstructed the figures, reshaping them into abstract and geometric forms. Faces became masks, and bodies dissolved into angular and overlapping planes. Picasso’s reinterpretations play with the viewer’s perception of space, form, and identity, challenging traditional notions of representation in art.

Address: Fundació Museu Picasso of Barcelona, Montcada 15-23
Hours: Tuesday to Sundays: 9am to 7pm (including holidays)
Thursday: until 9.30pm
Monday: 10am to 5 pm (from July 24 to September 25)
Closed: 1st Jan, 1st May, 24th June and 25th Dec.
On 24th and 31st Dec museum closes at 2.00pm.

#4. The Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona

The Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona, commonly known as MACBA, is the most prominent contemporary art museum in Barcelona. The MACBA Collection consists of artworks produced by artists from Catalonia, Spain, and around the world, primarily from 1960 to the present day. These collections encompass a diverse array of artistic mediums and materials, encompassing painting, sculpture, drawing, collage, assemblage, objects, installations, audiovisual creations, and sound recordings, among various other artistic forms and expressions.

Self Portrait, Jean-Michel Basquiat

Basquiat’s self-portrait is a highly charged piece with many influences and expressions. Basquiat himself was highly inspired by Spanish painter Pablo Picasso’s work, which is especially evident in this work. He combines dynamic use of colour and abstract forms to convey layered meanings throughout his paintings. Basquiat was one of the first “graffiti” artists to make this type of work considered “good enough” to make it into the galleries and now is considered one of the seminal artists in the neo-expressionist pop movement. The brush strokes and colours used throughout the piece convey such emotion and, in this piece, anger; it is hard to view the piece without becoming enraged yourself.

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Barrière, Jaume Xifra

Jaume Xifra was a famous Catalan Conceptual artist. In 1959, he fled to France to escape the dictatorship. And it was here in France where he would pour his traumatic experiences into a new form of art. Xifra worked with cheap materials and objects to critique the world of consumerism. ‘BARRIÈRE’ is Xifra’s commentary on the police’s control over the people. A barrier, a device supposedly used to protect pedestrians, is here covered in barbed wire. Putting the supposed pedestrians at risk and creating an even more violent separation of the people from the state.

Address: Plaça dels Àngels, 1, 08001 Barcelona
Hours: From 11 am to 7.30 pm, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday.
Until 8 pm, from June 24th until September 25th.
From 10 am to 9 pm, Saturday.
From 10 am to 3 pm, Sunday and public holidays.
Closed: Tue (except public holidays), Jan 1st, Dec 25th

#5. The Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona

The Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB) is a vibrant cultural center dedicated to contemporary culture and the arts. It serves as a multidisciplinary space where various forms of artistic expression, including visual arts, music, literature, film, and digital culture, converge. Unlike the other museums on this list, the CCCB hosts a diverse range of exhibitions and installations that explore contemporary themes, trends, and issues. These exhibitions often incorporate innovative approaches and multimedia elements, encouraging visitors to engage with contemporary art and culture in thought-provoking ways. But the program is always changing as there is not a permanent collection.

When we visited, the exhibition on display was titled “Sade: Freedom or Evil.” This exhibition explored the contemporary cultural, philosophical, and political impact of the Marquis de Sade. De Sade’s writings are seen as both liberating and corrupting, embodying a philosophy of freedom and evil simultaneously. The exhibition delves into his influence on artists and intellectuals, as well as his role as an icon in mass culture. Although the exhibition was pretty confronting, it was by far one of the best-curated art exhibitions I have seen in years. So I can confidently say that any exhibition you come to see here is bound to be of the highest quality.

Address: C/Montalegre 5, 08001 Barcelona
Hours: From 11 am to 8 pm, from Tuesday to Sunday and public holidays.
Closed: Mon (except public holidays), Jan 1st, Dec 25th

#6.

 houses a large collection of artworks by Antoni Tàpies. And the foundation was created to promote knowledge of modern art. Many people don’t even know who Antoni Tàpies is, but learning all about him is a great way to spend a breezy afternoon. The foundation is housed in a modernist building designed by architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner. And the building is an architectural gem in its own right. 

For those unfamiliar with Tapies, he is one of the greatest Catalan artists. His father was a lawyer and Catalan nationalist who influenced his cultural and political identity. Tàpies initially studied law, but his artistic inclinations led him to pursue art at the Acadèmia Valls in Barcelona. His early works were influenced by Surrealism and Catalan artists like Joan Miró. Especially once you’ve visited the Joan Miró foundations, you can see how closely he was tied to the works of Tapies.

Earth on Canvas

Tàpies is famous for his ‘pintura matèrica’ style, where he often incorporated a wide range of materials, including found objects, mixed media, and unconventional materials like sand, string, and marble dust. àpies had a deep fascination with the materiality of art. His paintings are characterized by their textured surfaces, as he used thick layers of paint and collage elements to create tactile, three-dimensional effects.

Address: C/ Aragó 255, 08007 Barcelona
Hours: Tuesday / Wednesday / Thursday / Saturday: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Friday: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Sunday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Closed: Mon, public holidays, Jan 1st and 6th, Dec 25th

With so many museums to see, it’s always nice to be able to save a few bucks where you can. With Articket Barcelona, you get access to all six museums for only 38€, a savings of 45% off the normal price of admission. And with this ticket, you’ll find that you’re more inclined to visit some museums you might not have thought to see and experience something unexpected.

The post An Honest Review of Art Ticket Barcelona, A Guide to the Most Amazing Museums first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This outer market grew up around the Tsukiji Fish Market. It supported the local and tourist populations gathering in this part of Tokyo. The narrow streets and alleys around the market housed some of the best casual restaurants and tiny street food vendors that served fish straight from the market. It also was (and is) where you could find great shopping for kitchen and household goods! Contrary to popular thought, this part of town did not disappear along with the fish market’s move to Koto City. The Tsukiji Outer Market is still a bustling area of Tokyo, even without the fish market nearby. So don’t miss this amazing foodie paradise, and make sure you follow our guide to the best of the Tsukiji Outer Market.

Table Of Contents

1. What is the Tsukiji Outer Market?
2. Access
3. Everything You Need to Eat!
   • Fresh Sushi
   • Tsukiji Itadori Bekkan
   • Maguro / Tuna 
   • Kaisendon
   • Grilled Scallops & Fresh Oysters
   • Tamagoyaki 
   • Fresh Fruit
   • Uni
   • Waygu
   • Unagi
   • Ice Cream
   • Daifuku Mochi
4. Shopping
   • Knife Shops
   • Ceramics
   • Spices & Dried Goods
5. Namiyoke Inari Shrine
   • Happy Travels, Adventurers!

What is the Tsukiji Outer Market?

The outer market is where you’ll find over 400 shops, grocers and small restaurants, crowded into only a few narrow alleys around what was once the largest fish market in Tokyo. The streets of the outer market explode with colour and excitement. Vendors yell at each other and passers-by 24/7, making the place feel full of life even in the very early hours of the morning.

Access

The Tsukiji Outer Market can be easily reached by foot from either Tsukiji Shijo Station on the Oedo Line or Tsukiji Station on the Hibiya Line. Shimbashi Station is the closest option for those using JR trains, with a 20-minute walk to the market.

Everything You Need to Eat!

Fresh Sushi

The outer market is the perfect spot to grab a bit of breakfast. Find a sushi bar with a bunch of old locals eating inside. Those with a line out of the door are always a surefire way to spot a good spot. While they might not have door-to-door access to fresh fish as before, they still bring in the same selection, just from a little further afield.

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Tsukiji Itadori Bekkan

Tsukiji Itadori Bekkan is one of the most popular spots in the outer market to find the best sushi and sashimi. It’s made to order, so you know it’s super fresh. It’s definitely on the more expensive side but well worth the price. The seasonal selection by the chef with 10 pieces of sushi and a roll will run you 5100 yen. They also have a Nagomi plate with seven pieces of shish and a roll for 3600. 

Maguro / Tuna 

Tuna is one of the most important fish sold at the fish market. One of the most popular tourist attractions at the new market is the Tuna auction. Early morning risers head to the market at the crack of dawn to witness the bidding wars that break out over the best pieces of fish caught that day. To see what all the fuss is about, you should make a point to seek out some fresh Maguro (tuna) served up on sushi or as sashimi. There are often variety plates that feature different varieties such as bluefin, fatty, medium fatty and regular tuna. A great way to see which is your favourite, so you know what to order next time. These can be expensive as tuna isn’t cheap, so expect to pay upwards of 3000 yen for a multi-piece tray.

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Kaisendon

A traditional breakfast dish eaten in Japan is Kaisendon. Kaisendon is a traditional Japanese dish consisting of a bowl of rice (“donburi”) topped with a variety of raw, fresh seafood (“kaizen”) known as sashimi. These can be found throughout the market, and every shop has its own unique take on the dish. You’ll always be served a variety of fish, everything from fatty tuna, shrimp, egg and other fresh daily fish selections. Bowls range from 1500 to 3000 yen.

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Grilled Scallops & Fresh Oysters

If you’re a seafood connoisseur and want the best of the best, plenty of shops here will be right up your alley. One of the most popular street foods in the Outer Market is fresh grilled scallops cooked over a charcoal flame. Thanks to the grilling, they have the most delicious flavour, which balances the sweetness of the scallop perfectly. These will run you about 1000 yen.

Another delight of the market is these larger-than-life oysters. They are absolutely oversized but nevertheless delicious. They taste clean and fresh and cost you about 700-800 yen.

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Tamagoyaki 

Plenty is more on offer if you’re not in the mood for fresh fish. Tamagoyaki is rolled-up, freshly made Japanese-style omelettes. They are super cheap at only 100 yen and a delicious way to start the day or just as a mid-afternoon snack. An entire slab of tamagoyaki runs about 500 – 800 yen, depending on if there are any additional ingredients. Great to share with friends.

Fresh Fruit

Tsukiji has always had a wide selection of fresh fruit vendors selling some of the best produce in the city. Is there anything more precious than the delicately wrapped fruits of Japan? I think not. Highly recommend, especially when in season, the strawberries. Japan is well known for its perfectly grown strawberries. And while they might seem pricey, they are spectacular. They even sell white strawberries which are super unique and even more delicious. A bowl of fresh strawberries generally costs about 500 yen for a selection.

Uni

One of the most uniquely Japanese delicacies has got to be fresh uni. Uni, or sea urchin, is the edible portion of the inside of spiny sea urchins. The taste is unrivalled. It’s almost buttery, with a sea-like flavour. I love it, and getting it fresh from the market is one of the best places to try it. They serve it on its own in various spots in Tsukiji and on sushi rice if you prefer to try it with a little bit of rice. Uni is a little pricey, a bowl of pure uni will run you about 1500 yen, but a single piece of uni sushi will be much less expensive.

Waygu

Another food item that many people coming to Japan might be looking for is Waygu beef. Wagyu is the classification given to four different Japanese breeds of beef cattle. It is widely known for being the most tender, delicious beef you can eat. In the Tsukiji market, you’ll see lots of stands selling sticks of Wagyu beef. Some shops sell thinner slices of beef you can pick out, and they cook it right before you. Overall, I prefer to have my Waygu in a restaurant. But if this is your only opportunity to try it, you can always pick out a small slice to ensure you try this pedigree cut of beef at least once!

Unagi

Another traditional dish served in the market is Unagi. Unagi is freshly grilled eel, slathered in a thick, sweet and savoury sauce which is carmelized over the fish as it cooks over a hot grill. You can find sticks of Unagi for around 300 yen. If you’ve never had Unagi, this is a great opportunity to try it out!

Ice Cream

If you’re in the mood for desserts, soft-serve ice cream will always be on offer all over the outer market. Dozens of different flavours to choose from spill out along the streets. Vendors are ready to give a sweet treat to anyone walking by, even on colder days.

Daifuku Mochi

Mochi is one of my favourite Japanese sweets. Mochi is made from pounding sweet rice flour into a gummy texture wrapped around different fillings like macha or sweet red bean paste. In the Tsukiji Market, you can find mochi topped with a fresh red or white strawberry that amps the flavour up to 100!

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Shopping

Knife Shops

The Tsukiji Outer market is home to many stores selling specialty chef and kitchen utensils. Most of these were opened to be geared toward sushi chefs preparing their fish. But today, they are a little more broad and open to everyone. Inside you’ll find professional-grade knives. Japanese knives are known as some of the best in the world, and if you’re looking for an upgrade to your kitchen collection, this is such a wonderful souvenir to treat yourself to. Something you will use for the rest of your life.

Ceramics

The ceramics in the market were my favourite thing to pursue. They were so inexpensive, but the designs were incredible. The vibrant colours and intricate paintings were handmade, each a little different from the next. I would pick out my favourite patterns from each shop and, at the end of the day, have a little collection of four perfectly mismatched, but that’s what makes it so charming.

Spices & Dried Goods

Tsukiji is also a wonderful place to shop for spices and dried goods. One of the best things to look for is homemade Furikake. Furikake is a dry Japanese condiment made from green and nori seaweed flakes. In addition to the seaweed, there are a variety of additional ingredients added for the various flavours, from sesame seeds, fish flakes, spices and more. Furikake is used to sprinkle on top of rice, veggies, and anything you like. But the ones made fresh from the market are even more special and a great gift to bring home.

Namiyoke Inari Shrine

While in the market, you should definitely make a visit to the small Namiyoke Inari Shrine. This shrine was the guardian of the marketplace and its traders when the old fish market was here. The name means “protection from waves,” which is very suitable for all the fishermen who pass by daily. Although the fisherman has moved, the shrine remains. The courtyard is dotted with various memorial plaques and carvings donated by trade groups in the marketplace. An excellent way to bring happiness and prosperity to the traders.

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One of the greatest things to do while walking around the Tsukiji Outer Market is exploring. Get lost, and you’ll always discover something fantastic. The smells from each alleyway changes from street to street. Sweet, sour, fishy, spicy and pungent. A feast for the senses. 

The greatest thing about this place is that after the exodus of the Fish market, the area became a little more local. Sure, it’s still immensely popular with tourists, but it’s equally just a spot for locals to grab something to eat on their way to work. You’ll pass hundreds of people on their way to grab a snack before they get on the train or mothers pushing prams trying to do their morning shopping.

I love watching locals doing their thing, living in their city, and experiencing the environments the way they were supposed to be experienced. Not as guests, as settlers.

The outer market is busy, loud and unmissable. Make sure you carve out time in your next trip to Tokyo to explore and eat all there is on offer!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Ultimate Guide to Tsukiji Outer Market’s Must-Try Foods [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

On our more recent trip to Newfoundland, we made it a point to seek out as many lighthouses as we could find along the way! This guide will help you find the perfect hiking location to suit your needs! We’ve compiled a list of the ten best lighthouse hikes in Newfoundland. There are hikes to get you started no matter what your skill or fitness level. Trust me, I’d not been hiking in ages and even I managed to do them all! And it was worth every step of the journey to see these incredible lighthouses up-close and take in all the fantastic scenery.

Table Of Contents

1. History of the Lighthouse
   • How Lighthouses Work
   • Lighthouse Keepers
2. Best Lighthouses in Newfoundland and Labrador
   • Ferryland Lighthouse
   • Twillingate Long Point Lighthouse
   • Cape Bonavista Lighthouse
   • Cape Spear Lighthouse
   • Cape Spear Hike
   • Fort Amherst Lighthouse
   • King Cove Lighthouse
   • Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse
   • Rose Blanche Lighthouse
   • Point Amour Lighthouse
   • Raleigh Trail
   • Fox Point Lighthouse

History of the Lighthouse

The very first known lighthouse was built in Egypt 2,000 years ago! While it took a few more thousand years for lighthouses to arrive in Newfoundland, today they feel like an essential part of the province. From the dawn of life in Newfoundland, the people’s connection to the sea has been of utmost importance. In the 1800s, there was a rise of Europeans migrating to the shores of Newfoundland in the Spring and Summer for fishing opportunities. Their quiet coastlines soon became a cluster of sailing ships.

During foggy and stormy weather, shipwrecks were prevalent. With over 29,000 kilometres of coastline, there was a need for lighthouses to guide boats into shore. It wasn’t just the weather sailors needed to be warry of; the coastline was dotted with dangerous rocky outcrops, hidden inlets, icebergs and rough shores. The first lighthouse to be built in Newfoundland was at Fort Amherst in 1810 to help boats into St. John‘s harbour through the narrows. It was the first of what would go onto be 55 lighthouses erected in Newfoundland over the years.

How Lighthouses Work

Lighthouses implement the Fresnel lens to cast their beacons of light across miles of stormy waters. The Fresnel lens has been called “the invention that saved a million ships.” The lens is made up of a series of prisms mounted onto a large steel frame. Then lenses reflect the flame/light inside, created in Newfoundland by burning seal oil. The refractions create one intense beam of light that can be seen miles away.

Later on, Lighthouses were given huge foghorns to help communicate with ships in the water before modern communication was possible. The cries of the foghorn echoing across the coastline became the background music heard by hundreds of Newfoundlanders over the years.

The first lighthouses in Newfoundland were painted with red and white stripes. These colours were chosen to help mariners see the lighthouse against the sky, even when it was foggy and grey. But the lighthouses located in lush forests or behind rocky cliffsides were painted all white to ensure they can be spotted against this dark forest backdrop.

Lighthouse Keepers

The job of the lighthouse keeper was one of the most important ones and one of the most solitary. Many of these lighthouses were first located in very remote locations. When transport was in its infancy, lighthouse keepers would live on the property instead of in the nearby villages. Sometimes a house would be built adjacent to the lighthouse where the keeper could live with their family. Often the weather conditions near these lighthouses were severe. Resources like food and fuel were limited as they were brought in only during the summer months.

The job of the lighthouse keeper was to ensure the light was always light. Without the light, ships would be lost at sea. Once foghorns were installed they were required to wind up the horns to blow on extremely foggy days. They were also responsible for reporting icebergs in the area and sending out flares if they saw any boats in trouble. Famously, the lighthouse keeper at Cape Race was the first to receive the Titanic’s distress signals. It was 400 miles off the coast of Newfoundland but alas, too far to make it in time to save those doomed passengers.

Best Lighthouses in Newfoundland and Labrador

Ferryland Lighthouse

The Ferryland Lighthouse is a quaint, historic spot along the Coast of Avalon with many stories to tell. One of the most beloved buildings in this small Newfoundland community, the Lighthouse has guided ships into shore since 1870. The grand, bright red Lighthouse looks out over the vast Atlantic Ocean. The sound of crashing waves against the rocks echoing across the hillsides. During certain times of the year, whales can even be spotted right off the coast.

Lighthouse Picnics

But what makes visiting this particular lighthouse so exciting is the Lighthouse Picnics. These incredible picnics are such unique experiences and so popular they even have been featured on Oprah’s Instagram! Picnics MUST be booked in advance as reservations are limited. Once you arrive at the Lighthouse, you will go to the main building to pick up your bespoke meal. You get to choose your favourite sandwich, dessert and drink and it also comes with a delicious salad! Then it’s up to your to find the perfect place nearby to enjoy it for yourself. There is genuinely nothing more perfect than a picnic by the sea. Especially when you don’t need to worry about packing or cooking anything yourself! We sat right in front of the amazing lighthouse to absorb all that majesty it provided.

The Ferryland Lighthouse Hike

The lighthouse is only accessible by hiking along a very flat pathway towards the edge of the coastline. The hike takes about 25-minutes to reach the peak of the Lighthouse. As you begin from the parking lot, take note of the small island to the North. Look closely, and you might spot a herd of sheep grazing on the grass. You might be thinking, “how on earth did those sheep get into that island?!” Local sheep farmers have been bringing their herds over the island for years, as it is free of predators. It is a wonderful place where the sheep can relax all summer. Just another little slice of magic that this hike provides. As you go, you’ll be able to listen to the seabirds flying overhead and keep an eye out for sea creatures bobbing up and down along the shore.

Twillingate Long Point Lighthouse

At the peak of Crow Head‘s in Twillingate, you’ll find the Long Point Lighthouse. The lighthouse sits over 300 feet above sea level, towering over the cliff below. The light flashing over the Atlantic Ocean and Notre Dame Bay. This is the perfect place to come to look for icebergs. Hundreds of icebergs float along this “alley” every year during the springtime. Whales also migrate along this part of the ocean! Twillingate is a great place to visit if you are an avid whale spotter.

The long point lighthouse was built in 1876. Unlike other lighthouses, it was built with a large double-story dwelling for the lighthouse keeper. Today the house is almost more imposing than the lighthouse. The house is used as the interpretive center for visitors. The lighthouse has a unique shape, the square base rises up into an octagonal design. The lower levels are painted red with a white lantern topper. This design resulted in the community nicknaming it, “the baby bottle.”

Nanny Hole and Longpoint Lighthouse Hike

You can descend downwards along the coastal trail from the Lighthouse parking lot. The trail leads you towards “Nanny’s Hole”. This hike and the surrounding views were the most reminiscent of Ireland to me. And seeing as so many of the first Newfoundlanders were Irish immigrants, one can really imagine why they felt at home here. The trail is 2.6 km long, so it’s an easy hike to do if you’re short on time but still want to experience the surrounding area.

Cape Bonavista Lighthouse

The lighthouse which stands on Cape Bonavista is my favourite lighthouse design. Something about those striking red and white stripes that pours down over the entire building makes it look like a giant peppermint candy. Caught in a sea of green grass. There’s something about lighthouses that draws people from near and far. Their presence radiates a sense of safety and solidarity, as though the light itself is a shield against disaster. And Cape Bonavista Lighthouse is no exception. It overlooks Bonavista Bay and offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.

Just across from the lighthouse is the iconic Puffin Colony. The little birds come to this safe harbour every year to roast and nest before their babies are born. The lighthouse itself was built in 1843. Back then, it was just a simple stone tower with a large glass lantern. The lamp was ignited by seal oil, and the lighthouse keeper’s job was to ensure it was always lit. He would purchase the seal oil from the fishermen in nearby villages to keep the lighthouse lantern burning. They were also charged with polishing the glass and recording weather and waves patterns. Today the stone tower has been encapsulated by a large surrounding building. Visitors can go inside the old tower to view the amazing lookout from above.

The lighthouse stands on the point where famous Italian navigator and explorer John Cabot first spotted land on his 1497 transatlantic voyage. When he saw the coastline ahead, he cried, “O Buona Vista!” which in Italian means “Oh happy sight!”

Cape Shore Trail

One of the best ways to see the lighthouse is to hike the Cape Shore Trail. This is a 9.2 km hike along the coastline and cliffside. It leads right to the lighthouse as the culminating point of the walk. This is such an incredible hike to see all different kinds of wildlife along the way. Although you can drive directly to the lighthouse, the hike is much more dramatic. The trail provides spectacular views of Bonavista Bay as you leisurely walk along the rugged coastline. Be sure to stop for a picnic along the trail or at the John Cabot Municipal Park.

Cape Spear Lighthouse

Cape Spear is a historic lighthouse located on the eastern tip of the Avalon Peninsula. Built in 1836, it was the second Lighthouse in Newfoundland and today is the oldest surviving Lighthouse. The colonist decided on this spot for their second Lighthouse. The area was located near the busy and rocky coast which stood near the entrance to St. John’s harbour.

Cape Spear History

Cape Spear was initially named ‘Cabo da Esperança,‘ by the Portuguese. This meant, “cape of hope.” But it was renamed when the French occupied the region, and they translated it to “Cap d’Espoir”. But over the years, the English just called it “Cape Spear,” which was their pronunciation of the French naming convention. Personally, I love the name ‘ Cape Hope’ and that’s how I like to think of the Lighthouse. No doubt, sailors coming in off the seemingly endless Atlantic ocean would have been overcome with emotion upon finally seeing land for the first time. A symbol of hope after their long journey.

To reach the lighthouse, you first need to climb a large set of stairs. This makes the entire experience of reaching the lighthouse all the more dramatic. As it seems to grow in size as you get close and closer. From the top of the hillside, you can descend down the cliffside via a series of boardwalks and wooden stairs. Standing on the deck facing the ocean, you are perched on the Easternmost point in North America. Looking out from here, you can spot Quidi Vidi Lake as well as St. John’s Harbour to the south. Plus an unobstructed view of Notre Dame Bay to the west.

Although the lighthouse is now automated, the lightkeeper’s residence is still on site. It has been restored to how it looked in 1839 when it was first opened. It now serves as a museum and allows the public to enter. They can experience what life for the new colonists and lighthouse keepers would have been like in the early 19th century.

Cape Spear Hike

For hikers, you can start your hike from the Cape Spear Lighthouse along the eastern edge of the coast. This fantastic 8.7 km moderate hike offers scenic views of the Atlantic ocean. If you make it the entire way, you will end at the lookout over Madam Cove.

Fort Amherst Lighthouse

Located on the other side of Signal Hill is a small square, tapered, wooden tower overlooking the Narrows. The Narrows is the only passage from the Atlantic Ocean to St. John’s Harbour, Newfoundland, bordered north and south by steep rock walls. This Lighthouse is situated on old Fort Amherst and therefore goes by the name Fort Amherst Lighthouse. The first Newfoundland British defensive tower was built on this very spot. It was built to protect the land from the invading French armies. Years later, in 1813 after the British forces left North America, the old Battery was transformed into a lighthouse.

The design of the lighthouse went through many iterations over time, and the current one standing is from 1951. A lighthouse was desperately needed in St. John‘s. St. John’s was one of the busiest harbours in Newfoundland. Ships coming in from Europe to fish from the Cod-rich oceans came in droves in the Spring and Summer. But what makes St. John’s harbour so special is that it is a naturally sheltered and ice-free port. So ships could come and go as they please here throughout the year. Sailors coming home would be greeted by this friendly lighthouse on their return shore. Various generations of fishermen find comfort in this lighthouse and it’s a mainstay of the community. Standing at this point, you have a fantastic view of Signal Hill across the Narrows and of St. John’s harbour.

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Deadman’s Bay Path

A wonderful hike that starts (or ends) at Fort Amherst is Deadman’s Bay Path. The hike is fairly difficult at 20km there and back. But you can easily just walk a portion of the trail starting from the entry point at Fort Amherst. The trail features beautiful wildflowers during the spring and summer and berry picking grounds in the later summer and fall. There is even a swimming hole on Southside Hill. There are several high elevations gains at the midpoint on the trail. If you’d prefer to avoid those, you can walk as far as the steep climbs and return. But if you choose to walk the entire path, it should take between 4-5 hours from Fort Amherst to Blackhead and back. If you can make it as far as Deadman’s Bay, you’ll be in for a real treat!

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King Cove Lighthouse

In the early 1800s, a merchant from St. John’s, named James MacBraire, came to King’s Cove to fish the rich waters. During the winter, he would hire skilled sailors to hunt seals. These brought in lots of money for the merchant as their pelts were very valuable. King’s Cove soon became a hub for his large fishery. But by 1893, the community was vying for a lighthouse to help the influx of ships in the area. The sailors desperately needed help managing the breakers and shallow waters around the cove.

King’s Cove Lighthouse was erected in 1893. It was made of cast iron and shipped in from England in pieces. This prefabricated design is the last surviving example of these pre-fab lighthouses in Canada. Unlike some of the other lighthouses in this guide, the King’s Cove lighthouse is an example of a functional structure. No ornamentation or flashy structures, just a simple stand-alone tower. The lighthouse was built on the headland jutting into the bay.

King’s Cove Lighthouse Trail

The King’s Cove Lighthouse trail offers hikers two options. You can take the extremely easy 1.7 km inner loop, which takes you to the lighthouse and back. Or opt for the 3.5 km outer loop, which heads to the lighthouse and then inwards through the seaside meadows. The pathway is actually a former country road that connected the lighthouse to the community. The views along the incredible coastline with remarkable geological sequences make this site a wonderful place to visit.

Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse

On the western edge of Gros Morne National Park stands the Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse. It faces the great Gulf of St. Lawrence and was the guide for boats entering Boone Bay. The lighthouse was built in 1894 to help the sailors on the west side of Newfoundland find their way home.

One of the most interesting parts of a visit to Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse is visiting the lighthouse keeper’s house. It has been restored to look and feel like it has been plucked out of the 1900s. This gives visitors a glimpse at how lighthouse keepers and their families lived in these remote locations. While they were only paid a few hundred dollars a year, their hard work was responsible for keeping so many ships safe.

Another unique aspect of Lobster Cove Head is the signal flags they have on display. These flags started to be used in the 1890s to send messages between ships and the shore. The different flags each represented a specific message. A banner with a “U” would tell the incoming ships, “You are running into danger,” while a “W” meant “I require medical assistance.”

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Lobster Cove Head Trail

Just next to the lighthouse, you’ll find the entrance to Lobster Cove Head trail. This is a 2.1 km trek which is perfect for any skill level. You will wander up and down the coastline into the tuckamore forests and towards the rocky beaches. When you reach the beach, be sure to take a peek into the tide pools. These tide pools contain a myriad of different sea creatures like anemones, fish, crabs and periwinkles.

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Rose Blanche Lighthouse

The most unique lighthouse on the island is the Rose Blanche Lighthouse, located on the southwest corner of Newfoundland. The Rose Blanche Lighthouse was originally named “Roche Blanch,” which means white rock. The name was inspired by the white quartz that is found in this area of Newfoundland. The same white granite quarried in the nearby mines was used to construct the lighthouse itself. It was built in 1873 and unlike the sleek designs of the other lighthouse, the rocks give this one a rustic quality. I love how the rocks around the lighthouse blend in with the lighthouse itself. Making it look like the building simply grew out of the earth.

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Rose Blanche Lighthouse Trail

A very short and sweet trail is located right at the back of Rose Blanche Lighthouse. The trail offers scenic views of the North Atlantic Ocean and the white rocks on the coast. You can wander through the picturesque community of Rose Blanche Harbour Le-Cou. Some parts of the trails are actually old roads. These roads were once used by the first mariners to sail these shores.

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Point Amour Lighthouse

The name “Point Amour” literally means “Love Point.” But shockingly, it was originally named “Pointe-aux-Morts,” or “dead man’s point.” Separating Labrador from Newfoundland is the great Strait of Belle Isle. This deadly waterway is known for rough seas and thick fog. The weather resulting in all these deadly shipwrecks over the years. The famous HMS Raleigh was wrecked just a mile offshore. Eleven crewmen died trying to swim to shore, but they couldn’t see the limestone cliffs in such rough conditions.

Four lighthouses were built along the coast to prevent such deadly accidents. This ensured that large steamships could travel safely between Europe and Newfoundland. The name of the area was changed in the hopes to rebrand the area and communicate the new safety standards put in place by the lighthouses. Of the four lighthouses, Point Amour Lighthouse is the tallest in Atlantic Canada. Reaching 109 feet (33 meters) built in 1858.

When the lighthouses were built, they were called, “Imperial Towers”. Their designs were based on lighthouses in the British Isles. The towers were made of bricks but covered in clapboard to protect against the rough weather. Today you can visit the interior of the lighthouse as the entire building complex is a museum. You can walk the 132 steps to the top of the tower. From here you have a panoramic view of the sea and land surrounding it.

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Raleigh Trail

Raleigh Trail is an easy 1.8 km pathway that runs around the lighthouse. It allows visitors to get close to the beautiful wildflowers and coastline surrounding the area. Walking along the trail, you’ll also pass the site of the washed-up wreckage from the HMS Raleigh and several other ships. The ship parts littering the shore like an iron graveyard.

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Fox Point Lighthouse

Fox Point Lighthouse can be found outside the small town of St. Anthony. Originally the land was used by French fishermen from Brittany. It was “officially” French explorer Jacques Cartier who “discovered” St. Anthony Harbour. But we all know it was occupied by locals long before then. French fishermen would come here for the season and then leave come winter. But eventually, they were pushed out and banned from fishing in favour of the local Newfoundlanders.

In 1850, Dr. Wilfred T. Grenfell arrived and built the St. Anthony Hospital, which grew the community substantially. St. Anthony Harbour was deemed the perfect place to build the first lighthouse in the area in 1906. The first lighthouse was an iron tower with a large lens lantern atop. It was painted with a framework of red and white vertical stripes. Over the years, the design of the lighthouse was altered. Today we can see the 1936 iteration which features a flat-roofed wooden building. But they continued the tradition of painting the sides red and white.

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The building beside the lighthouse, which was originally the lighthouse keeper’s residence, has been turned into an amazing Seafood Restaurant. It opened in 1993 and has been serving tourists and locals ever since. Nothing is better on a cold day than the lighthouse keepers’ seafood chowder!

Fishing Point Park Trails

Fishing Point Park Trails is a wonderful hike, which takes you up, up and away. The 3.7 km loop offers scenic views from the top of St. Anthony’s and is good for all skill levels. There is a large set of stairs to climb at the midpoint on the trail, but just take your time, and the view from the top will be worth the effort! The entire town of St. Anthony’s is spread out around you with the lighthouse you just visited dead center!

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If you are planning a trip to Newfoundland, a visit to one or many of their iconic lighthouses needs to be a part of your adventures! Let me know in the comments which are your favourite lighthouse or any other ones you visited that stole your heart!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Best Lighthouse Hikes in Newfoundland and Labrador: The Ultimate Guide first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Most people opt to go on a boat tour, and rightly so, as it is one of the most authentic ways to explore Amsterdam. But a tour on foot allows you to spend more time studying the buildings up close. This way you can get a real sense of the atmosphere and environment of different neighbourhoods spread across the city. A walking tour is a great idea as an intro to the city. You’ll get a taste and decide for yourself where you might want to return to study in greater detail. Don’t worry too much about being on the right side of the canal as we go. You can easily see these buildings from across the canal. But you can always cross over one of the many bridges in the city should you want to get a closer look.

Table Of Contents

1. How Long is the Tour?
2. Amsterdam History
3. Types of Gables
4. Walking Tour Starting Point: Brouwersgracht
5. Eenhoornsluis
6. Prinsengracht
7. Jordaan Neighbourhood
8. Keizersgracht
9. Lauriergracht
10. Beudekerbrug
11. Reguliersgracht 92
12. Magere Brug, the Skinny Bridge
13. Amstel
14. Herengracht
15. Koningssluis
16. Melkmeisjesbrug
17. Singel Canal
18. Blauwburgwal
19. The Torensluis
20. Bloemenmarkt
21. The Dancing Houses
22. Grimburgwal
23. Kloveniersburgwal
24. Oudezijds Voorburgwal
25. House at the Three Canals
26. Agnietenkapel

How Long is the Tour?

This is a full-day walking tour that takes you across the entire city! If you feel like splitting it up, feel free to customize the tour yourself! This way, you can spend some extra time in any of the museums listed. That is the joy of self-guided tours, after all. We will start our tour in the quiet northwest corner of the city in the Jordaan neighbourhood. Then we slowly make our way over to the southeast end.

Amsterdam History

Amsterdam began as a small fishing village. The village was located behind the large dam which protected the city from the overbearing Amstel River. The name “Amsterdam” comes from the location along the “Amstel” river and the “dam” which protected it. In less than 200 years, from the 16th to 18th century, the city of Amsterdam’s population exploded! It multiplied from 30,000 residence to 160,000 residents almost overnight. The city was a melting pot for immigrants from all over Europe. At the time, the Netherlands had a very tolerant climate towards refugees. With this came a massive influx of people from France, Portugal, Spain, and much of the Jewish population from Antwerp.

The Canal Expansion

Back then, Amsterdam was just this tiny island overflowing with people. The city needed to find a way to expand the city and cope with the growing population. So, the city council decided they would follow what the Italians did in Venice. They created a series of canals that spread out around the city. But unlike the winding, a spider web of canals in Venice, the design of the Amsterdam canals was very structured. They run in a half-moon shape around the bay encircling the historic medieval centre. Historians also call this the windshield wiper design.

Grachtengordel

The newly formed canal belt neighbourhood was called the Grachtengordel. “Gracht” translates to the word “canal” so literally, this was called the canal district. This new area would be designated for inhabitants. A fourth canal was added, the Singel Canal, which would be used for defence.

Building the canals was a pricey business. So the city offered wealthy merchants and bankers the opportunity to buy plots of land in these prestigious areas. This helped them secure the funds they needed to build the waterways. A portion of the outer canals was reserved for industrial use. As these factories were known for being loud and smelly the city wanted to keep them as far away from the aristocrats as possible.

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Creation of Canal House

Many of the houses you see in Amsterdam are built atop a series of wooden poles. If you were to scan a cross-section of the city, you’d see it look like a giant pin cushion. How many poles are there? Some say it’s as much as eleven million! The Amsterdam Centraal train station alone stands atop 9,000 poles. Each pole needs to be around 15-20 meters tall to be struck down deep enough to support the houses built atop it.

Amsterdam Roof Gables

During the 17th century, it was considered gauche to see the roof of a house from the street or canal. This is why you see so many of Amsterdam’s houses featuring ornate and prominent gables. A roof gable is a section of wall between the edges of a dual-pitched roof. It provides both an aesthetic and functional purpose. Many of the gables in Amsterdam also feature sturdy winches in the center. These were installed to help lift heavy items up to the upper floors of the home or warehouse.

Types of Gables

The uniquely shaped gables are one of the most notable features of Amsterdam’s architecture. There are four primary designs you can see across the city. These include; the stepped gable, the bell gable, the neck gable and the spout gable. Each type of gable corresponding to a different period of time, like spotting fashion trends through the ages.

Why are the Houses so Thin?

Another unique aspect of houses in Amsterdam are their width. The houses are designed to be tall and narrow. But this was originally not originally an aesthetic choice. Back then, taxes were calculated based on the width of the house, not the height. So the answer to building a large home without high taxes was to build upward.

Types of Hosues

There are two main types of houses you see along the canals. They are easily identifiable if you know what you’re looking for. There is the koopmanshuizen (merchant warehouse) and then the herenhuis (residential mansions and townhouses). Merchant houses were designed to work on a split-level design. The lower levels near the water could operate as warehouses and the upper levels were used as the living quarters. Everything from spices, tulips, coffee and more were stored here. To identify the warehouses you need only spot the large wooden shutters. These were only added to merchant’s houses. The shutters when opened allowed goods to be hoisted in up to the upper levels which allowed for more storage space. When closed, the large wooden shutters helped keep out the heat and sunlight to preserve the goods inside.

Walking Tour Starting Point: Brouwersgracht

Our tour starts on the Brouwersgracht. This canal was developed in the 17th century just north of the residential canal belt. It was a canal built for large warehouses. The location near the mouth of the river allowed quick access for ships returning piled with goods. The Brouwersgracht, or the Brewers’ Canal, was named as such due to the number of breweries in the area. The location not only made the delivery of goods simple, but it also meant these warehouses had the best access to fresh water. Essentially for breweries and distilleries.

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Brouwersgracht 218

On Brouwersgracht 224-218, we can see examples of neck gables. The house at #218 features a neck gable decorated with Doric pilasters that extend up in the style of Dutch Baroque architecture. The facade features three “oeil-de-boeuf” or “ox eyes”. These are small rounded windows (although these windows have since been bricked up.) Oeil-de-boeuf windows were popular design trends in Amsterdam and they pop up all over the city.

Hanging from the centre of these gables is a sizeable protruding hook. These hooks were used alongside a pulley system to move heavy items into the home. Although they were originally designed for the warehouses, to bring in spices, cotton or cocoa, in the residential homes they were used to move heavy furniture in and out.

Brouwersgracht 204-212

A group of 17th-century warehouses sit at Brouwersgracht 204-212. Standing on the top of the gables along this series of warehouses are a variety of Green Deer sculptures. The one in the center looks straight out over the canals, seemingly on guard. Whereas the two on either side lie in repose, looking in towards the centre deer. When the family built the warehouses in 1640, the deer were always the crowning glory of the gables. But they disappeared hundreds of years later. When the area residents discovered some old drawings of the warehouses that featured the lost deer, they collaborated to have them reconstructed. Although they are now made of plastic (as to not disturb the structural integrity of the gable), it’s nice to see the love that the neighbours have for their neighbourhood history.

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Brouwersgracht 196-188

Many of the houses along Brouwersgracht contain those iconic brightly coloured window shutters. Used to identify them as warehouses. You can see more examples of these along Brouwersgracht 196-188. All of these warehouses were built around 1636. In 2007 Brouwersgracht was voted the most beautiful street in Amsterdam by readers of Het Parool out of 150 nominations. And one can really see why. The canal is a lovely blend of all the most famous Dutch architecture. It is also home to a series of scenic houseboats that float along the canal. But since the canal is located far enough from the busy tourist centre, the area still feels peaceful and quaint.

Brouwersgracht 174

At #174 Brouwersgracht, you’ll find a vast building with the widest roof gable found anywhere in the city. Topping the centre of the gable is Amsterdam’s famous coat of arms. The coat of arms of Amsterdam consists of a large red shield with a black strip down the center. Punched along the vertical black stripe are three silver Saint Andrew’s Crosses. These three crosses are seen all over Amsterdam, either accompanied by the shield or sometimes just on their own. Unlike what you might think, “XXX” doesn’t stand for anything untoward or x-rated. St. Andrew is the patron saint of Amsterdam as he was a fisherman just like the earliest residents of the city. When St. Andrew was martyred, he was placed on an X-shaped cross, and the X became a symbol for the saint.

But why are there three Xs? Well, there are a few theories. One theory states that they represent the three formidable rivers Amsterdam controlled. Another is that it stands for the holy trinity. But my favourite theory is that they represent the three threats Amsterdam needed to protect itself against. These were fire, flood and plague.

Eenhoornsluis

Just a few steps from the Brouwersgracht is the great Eenhoornsluis or Unicorn Lock. This is one of the 16 “water locks” found around the city. These water locks were built in the 17th century to control the water levels inside the canals. They were meant to protect the town from flooding in from the swelling seas. Previous to 1916, these water locks actually allowed fresh ocean water into the city. But in 1916, a great flood caused much damage to the city. After this, the Southern Sea dike was built to prevent such a flood from ever happening again. This resulted in the transformation of the city’s water to be freshwater only, but the payoff was worth it in the long run.

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Prinsengracht

From the bridge, turn down onto the Prinsengracht. Prinsengracht, or the Prince’s Canal, was named after the Prince of Orange. This is the fourth of the four main canals belonging to the canal belt. The Canal Belt, and rings it formed around the city, would go onto give Amsterdam its distinctive crescent shape. The four canals which make up the Canal Belt are the Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and the Prinsengracht. The Prinsengracht is the longest of all the canals, stretching out over 3 km, on the outer edge of the city. The epic construction of the canal began in 1612 and took over 50 years to be completed.

Café Papeneiland

As we turn on Prinsengracht, we first stop off at the Café Papeneiland. This is the oldest cafe in Amsterdam, established in 1641! In the 16th century, during the Dutch Protestant Reformation, the government outlawed Catholicism. This meant all Catholics had to practice in secret or abandon their religion altogether. Many underground Catholic churches were built in response. Tunnels ran throughout the city to connect secret entrances to these churches. And this cafe was once one such location. The cafe’s name translates to “papists’ island,” as this part of town was known as a sanctuary for Catholics. The tunnel entrance is still located in the basement. If you order something from the bar (preferably their amazing dutch apple pie), ask the bartender nicely to show you the old entrance.

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Jordaan Neighbourhood

The area along the western side of Prinsengracht is better known as the Jordaan Neighbourhood. The canals closer to the historic center were generally reserved for the wealthy residents of Amsterdam. So the Jordaan Neighbourhood, away from the city centre, was a low-income area and somewhat of a slum. The roads and canals here are more slender than the rest of the city. This was done to save money on construction but resulted in what was seen as a more crowded district. It wouldn’t be until much, much later in Amsterdam’s history, that the area was gentrified into what we see today. Now, the Jordaan is one of the hipper parts of town.

But back in the 17th century, the area was densely populated by immigrants and refugees. Many of these refugees were from France. The name of the area, “Jordaan,” is derived from the french word “Jardin,” meaning garden. Many of the streets off of Prinsengracht are named after flowers.

Noorderkerk

Continuing along, you’ll come to the large Noordermarkt square. The square is dominated by the imposing Noorderkerk or North Church. The North and West Church (which we will see later) were financed by the same merchant guild who hired the same architect, De Keyser, to design them both. The North Church, built in 1620, was meant to be the “people’s church.” It was intended as a simpler version of the more ornate West Church. The Noorderkerk has a symmetrical, cross-shaped layout, reflecting the ideals of the Renaissance and Protestantism. De Keyser’s unique design combines an octagonal floor plan with a structure shaped like Saint Andrew’s cross. Four arms of equal length spread out around the building giving it almost a circular appearance.

The “people’s church” was a polite way to distinguish the population that attended. This town area was home to Amsterdam’s more impoverished population. The wealthy merchant didn’t want to associate with them. They were mainly fishermen, and apparently, the smell of fish was something the wealthy merchant didn’t have the stomach for.

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Van Brienenhofje

Located along Prinsengracht from #85 to 133 is the old Van Brienenhofje. This was one of 13 different breweries which were situated along Prinsengracht. When the brewery closed, it was transformed into an almshouse for the elderly. Today it is still used as a housing association for the poor.

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Prinsengracht 175

At Prinsengracht 175, you can see an old house that dates back to 1661. On the front of the house, are a series of gable stones. They are carved into the shape of a sheep, an ox and a lamb. These gable stones can be found on many of the older buildings around Amsterdam. They were called gevelstenen and used before there was an established numbering system along the canal. These symbols also were used to identify the occupation of the owner inside. This also helped the illiterate population of the city during the middle ages find different shops and businesses they required. Spotting these stone tablets makes for a fun eye-spy game as you explore the city!

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Keizersgracht

We’re going to take a quick detour over to the Keizersgracht by turning left along Prinsenstraat. The Keizersgracht (also called the Emperor’s canal) is the third canal in the canal belt. It was named after Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor. During the wintertime, if the weather is cold enough, the water freezes over thanks to the water locks which stop freshwater from entering. This allows residents to skate up and down the canal, a great way to get around during the winter. The canal is 31 meters wide, making it the widest of the waterways in the canal belt.

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Keizersgracht 44

The red shutters of #44 Keizersgracht mark it as a traditional merchant warehouse. But what makes this house different are the stepped gables. Most merchant houses didn’t feature these ornate gables as they were primarily used on residences. This house is also unique as the contents of the warehouse were whale blubber. Large cement pits were dug out in the basement where the whalers could store up to 50,000 litres of whale blubber.

Rode Hoed

The Rode Hoed (Red Hat) announces itself to the public in large red letters as you pass by. While the house looks almost like a church, it was initially a hat makers shop until 1629. After that, the building was purchased by the Remonstrants Brotherhood (a sect of Protestants). Like the Catholics, they needed to practice in secret. They built their underground church here, where they practiced until 1957. After that it was sold to a TV station. Thankfully, the station protected the appearance of the exterior for future generations to appreciate.

Keizersgracht 123

The house at Keizersgracht 123 is better known as the “House with the Heads.” The house was built in 1622 for merchant and art lover Nicolaas Sohier. It was built by city architect Hendrick de Keyser in high Dutch Renaissance style. The roof has been given that illustrious stepped gable design with decorative obelisks, pilasters, claw pieces and swathes of flowers blooming between the windows. Located above the pediments are these wonderful lion masks with their mouths wide open as if in a mid growl.

The house’s name comes from the six sculptural heads on the facade, located just above the first floor. These six heads were initially rumoured to represent six robbers who had once attempted to break into the house. They were caught in the act by the kitchenmaid and were beheaded with her own meat cleaver! Sadly, the story is nothing more than gossip but it makes for a great rumour. The heads acutally represent the six gods; Apollo, Ceres, Mercury, Minerva and Diana.

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Keizersgracht 177

The large brick mansion at #177 Keizersgracht is called the Coymanshuis. It was designed in 1625 by Jacob van Campen for two wealthy brother who were both bankers. The brothers made their fortune in silver and iron. They had huge families, one brother having six children and the other having ten! So, in turnn, they require a very large manor to house all those kids! Architect Jacob van Campen would go on to design the Amsterdam City Hall. He used this house as his winning portfolio piece to get the opportunity to work on the great city hall.

Homomonument

On the other side of the canal, opposite the large and imposing Westerkerk, is a series of steps leading down to a triangular platform. This is the Homomonument, a memorial to commemorate gays and lesbians citizens who were killed by the Nazisduring WWII. Pink triangle badges were used in concentration camps to identify gays and lesbians and the triangular design is used repetedly here to memorialize those actions. The Homomonument was designed to “inspire and support lesbians and gays in their struggle against denial, oppression and discrimination.”  An estimated 15,000 people were sentenced to concentration camps during WWII, many of whom, never returned.

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Astoria Building

Although there aren’t many art nouveau-styled buildings in Amsterdam, you can find one of the greatest here at Keizersgracht #174. This is the Astoria building, built in 1904 to serve as the head office for the Eerste Hollandsche Levensverzekerings Bank. Towering over the rest of the city, the Astoria was the first office tower ever built in the Netherlands. The Dutch style of art nouveau, also called the Nieuwe Kunst, is a much more restrained version of the art style found elsewhere in the world. The most impressive part of the building is the giant mosaic located on the facade depicting an angel protecting a young woman beside a small child.

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Anne Frank House

Turn back onto the Prinsengracht canal and make your way to Prinsengracht #263. The house is easily spotted by the long line of people outside. They are all waiting to see the famed Anne Frank House. It was here that little Anne Frank wrote her seminal diary. This book went on to ignite, inspire and inform young people the whole world about life during WWII.

The Secrets of the House

It was in this house that Anne and her family hid from the Nazis. The house was initially built in 1635 by Dirk van Delft, but the canal facade was renovated in 1740. The lower levels with their wide stable-like doors were initially used to house horses. Later, when Otto Frank bought the house, the space was used as a warehouse for household appliances, piano rolls, and spices. In the back part of the house, was concealed from the street. From the outside, you couldn’t make out the back extension that allowed Anne and her family to hid. A trick bookshelf was installed to give access to these large secret apartments.

Sadly, after hiding for two years, they were discovered by the Nazis during a raid and were sent to the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp. Anne’s father Otto was the only family member to survive. The employees who worked in Otto’s factory came back to retrieve anything left behind by the Nazis. Luckily, one of these items was Anne’s diary. When Otto returned to Amsterdam it was his life’s mission to publish the book. Not knowing how widespread her musings would become. If you are interested in visiting the museum, be sure to book tickets WELL ahead of time. I’m talking like two months early in some cases! You can also line up in the afternoon for day-of tickets but there is no guarantee you’ll get in and the line tends to be hours long.

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Westerkerk

Opposite the Anne Frank House is the 17th-century protestant Westerkerk. This church is most notable for its 87-meter tower, which can be seen all across Amsterdam. The top of the building is capped with the brightly coloured gilded Imperial Crown. The symbol of the imperial crown belonged to the Holy Roman Emperor, in honour of Maximilian I, archduke of Austria and ruler of the Low Countries. When Maximilian travelled to the Hague in 1484 he fell ill. He prayed that if he recovered he would make a pilgrimage to Amsterdam, where the miracle had been performed. When he was indeed healed, he granted the use of his coat of arms to the city of Amsterdam. The crown is covered in bright blue enamel and even decorated in shining jewels to look as realistic as possible.

The interior of the church is rather plain, painted in white with natural stones. The main feature of the interior is the 36 large windows which allow sunlight to pour in from any angle. There isn’t a single building surrounding the church that obstructs the light flowing in. The white painted interior highlights the glowing luminescence produced by these great windows.

Nieuwe-Wercksbrug

Walk up along the Nieuwe-Wercksbrug bridge to get a beautiful view down the canals. Standing on the bridge, you are walking along Rozengracht street. Rozengracht street translates to “rose street,” but back in the 17th-century, the area was nothing of the sort. The Rozengracht is one of the six filled-in canals located in the Jordaan neighbourhood. The canals had to be filled in because of the poor hygienic condition in the water due to the pollution. People threw everything from garbage, dead animals and human waste into the canal. The street literally smelled so bad they had to fill it in. Now you might understand the irony of giving it such a flowery name.

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Reesluis

Reesluis is the name of the bridge which crosses over this part of the Prinsengracht. From here, you have a fantastic view of Westerkerk’s giant clock tower that looms over the canal. The bridge is named after the Reestraat, which continues out to the east. The street’s name translates to “Deer Street.” This area of town was popular with animal skin traders and craftsmen who worked in the leather industry. The bridge is one of the older bridges in the area, built before 1625.

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Lauriergracht

From here, we are taking a short detour to the east along the Lauriergracht. The Lauriergracht, or the “Laurel Canal,” was a popular place for artists to live in the 17th century. I definitely find this canal contains many hidden artistic flourishes from bright stained glass windows, colourful exteriors and even just little ornate stonework hidden here and there. They are small flourishes but definitely a unique characteristic of the area.

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Lauriergracht 23

Built in 1658, this home was a typical 17th-century example of the fanciful neck gables of the time. This one features two huge lions set into claw pieces. The lions look like they are on the prowl, protecting the home from intruders.

The Houseboat Museum

Turn back to Prinsengracht until you reach the corner of Elandsgracht and Prinsengracht where you’ll find the Houseboat Museum. Since there are over 800 houseboats in Amsterdam, you’d be remiss in visiting the city without going inside of one. And unless you’ve booked one for your hotel stay (a great idea, by the way) or you know someone with a houseboat, this might be your only chance to see the interior of one in person. This houseboat dates back to the 1960s. It has such a retro vibe and still displaying all the ingenious ways people make the small spaces work for them as living quarters. There isn’t a drawer or cabinet not squeezed into place to make these floating homes just like the real thing.

Prinsengracht 300

At #300 Prinsengracht we’ll find another beautiful example of the stone house symbols. This one features a red fox with a blue sparrow in its mouth. The house was built for furrier Dirck Hendricksz Hooghvelt who made his living selling fox fur clothing. The house was originally called ‘De Witte Vos’ (meaning the white fox) until 1767 when the stone tablet was repainted white and the house went by the name ‘De Roode Vos’ (the red fox.)

Beudekerbrug

In 1949, while walking across the Beudekerbrug, singer-songwriter Pieter Goemans was inspired to write the famous song ‘Aan de Amsterdamse Grachten‘ (‘On Amsterdam’s Canals’). It is one of the most popular songs celebrating the city. You’ll often hear it played on street organs across the Netherlands. When the author died in 2000, his ashes were scattered here in the canal. The plaque on the bridge commemorates his contribution to the history of Dutch music.

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Palace of Justice – Prinsengracht 443- 436

From the corner of Prinsengracht and Leidsegracht, we can see the great former Palace of Justice. At the corner, the building has a much different style than the neo-classical facade further along. The entire structure was once the old ‘Weeshuis‘ or orphanage. This Weeshuis was designed to serve the poorest of Amsterdam’s children. Two small stone carvings on either side of the doors on the old brick building show the images of the nuns. The nun who worked in the orphanage are seen holding hands with the small children in the frame. Despite the updating of the rest of the building this small memento from history remains.

The orphanage was renovated into the Palace of Justice in 1825 by architect Jan de Greef. Greef was working under the stylist trends of the period. These were heavily inspired by ancient Greek architecture. The building features large stone columns, Corinthian capitals and heavy stone balustrades. On the second-floor facade, you can see a stone carving with a poem attributed to Jacob van Lennep. It reads, “Under your rule, Serene Willem! Is this Asylum rebuilt, and consecrated to Law and Justice.”

Prinsengracht 769

At Prinsengracht 769, you’ll find the old Prinsengracht Hospital. The original hospital was built in 1857 after the cholera epidemic in the 1850s. The hospital remained open for over 150 years, eventually closing in 2015. A modern co-working space company bought the property. They wanted to transform the individual hospital rooms into rentable desks spaces and meeting rooms for digital nomads and start-up companies. While the interior has been modernized, the facade remains much unchanged from the days when it served as a hospital.

The Deutzen Hofje

Facing out along the canal’s bend is the Deutzen Hofje at Prinsengracht 857. Hofje is the Dutch word for a courtyard with almshouses around it. Hofjes have existed since the Middle Ages providing housing mainly for the elderly. The house was built in 1695 with funds from a wealthy Amsterdam resident. She bequeathed the house over to the city to become free housing for older servants who couldn’t work anymore. On the front of the house are the words, “A comfort to the poor, an example to the rich.”

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Reguliersgracht 92

At the corner of Prinsengracht and Reguliersgracht is an old red-painted building. Take note of the interesting sculpture of a stork peeking out over the niche above the doorway. The building was first built in the 17th century for a popular midwife. She used the stork as a symbol and de-facto advertisement for her business.

De Duifbrug

De Duifbrug or the Dove Bridge has also been called the “tunnel of love.” The original name came from the fact the bridge was located next to the old De Duif church. But the nickname was given as it is thought to be one of the most romantic spots in the city. Standing on the bridge your vantage point looks out over at the seven different famous bridges that surround the area. When illuminated at night, it is one of the most magical places in the city!

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Brasserie Nel

Set back on the Amstelveld, is a charming tree-lined square. Located right inside is the old Brasserie Nel. The building, which houses the trendy restaurant with a picture-perfect patio, was built in 1668. It originally served as a temporary church before the De Duif was constructed. The restaurant is a great place to stop if you’re looking for somewhere to grab a bite to eat or just have a refreshing glass of beer!

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Magere Brug, the Skinny Bridge

Make your way down to the Amstel River to see the Magere Brug or “Skinny Bridge.” Considered by most to be the most beautiful bridge in the city. The Magere Brug is a bascule bridge or draw bridge. These bridges can be raised to provide clearance for large boat traffic to pass through. The present bridge was built in 1934 to accommodate these large boats which couldn’t pass under the original stone bridge.

The first incarnation of this passage across the river was installed in 1691. Back then, it is said that the bridge was created by two sisters who lived on opposite sides of the Amstel river. Each one wanted to be able to visit one another every day without having to jump into a boat. But the women weren’t super-wealthy and could only afford to build a very narrow bridge. Hence the original name “skinny” bridge. Walk out onto the bridge for some of the best photo opportunities in the city. The view looking out at the Amstel River as well as the view of the bridge and houses behind it are both stunning photo spots.

Amstel

The name Amstel is derived from the Dutch word Amestelle. “Ame” meaning water, and “stelle” meaning solid, high dry ground. In the 12th century, the Amstel river was developed to serve as a commercial waterway by the very wealthy Van Amstel family. The family had been an influential dynasty in the medieval Netherlands named after the river from which they drew their wealth. The river is truly the lifeblood of the town and is one of the most important transit routes in Amsterdam.

Herengracht

Walk back to Amstel street until you reach the Herengracht. The Herengracht is the second of four Amsterdam canals belonging to the canal belt, located right behind the Singel Canal. The portion of the canal was built in 1612. Previously the area was a simple moat dug for the companies on the Singel canal to use. The name of the canal was given in honour of Heren Regeerders van de stad, the Gentlemen Governor of Amsterdam. Today it goes by the nickname the Gentlemen’s Canal.

Willet-Holthuysen Museum

After walking past so many of these canal houses, take this opportunity to step inside one for yourself! The house at Herengracht 605 was built for the mayor of Amsterdam Jacob Hop in 1685. It was passed down to each subsequent mayor until 1895, when it passed hands to Abraham Willet and Louisa Holthuysen. When Willet died, Louisa bequeathed the house to the city of Amsterdam. She gave it along with their collection of art, furniture and another interior decor to serve as the Willet-Holthuysen Museum.

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The facade was renovated in 1739 to suit the new Louis XIV style. I adore the floral stone carvings, which look like they are real flowers growing out of the stone. Above the doorway is a large stone sculpture of St. George standing atop a slain dragon. Holding up the plinth is the head of an elephant whose trunk acts as a column holding up the entire stone tablet. The interiors all date back to 1895 and are a wonderful slice of that period of architecture, design and art in Amsterdam. Ticket prices for Adults are €12.50.

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Gouden Bocht

The Gouden Bocht or Golden Bend was built as the most prestigious part of the Herengracht. Many people who originally purchased the land here were regents, mayors and traders. They were encouraged to buy a double lot to ensure their mansion felt grand and imposing. Most of the residents made their living importing and exporting goods from South America or the Dutch East Indies. The name “golden bend” came from the fact that the city’s wealthiest families seemed to be amassed right here along the bend.

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Philips Vingboons and Adriaan Dortsman

Two architects were responsible for most of the structures along the Golden Bend. They were Philips Vingboons and Adriaan Dortsman. Philips Vingboons is known to be the originator of the famous neck gable design. Since Vingboons was a Catholic and the city was controlled by the protestant elite, he never had the opportunity to design any governmental or religious buildings in the town. These kinds of commissions would have brought in a substantial amount of money and fame for the artisan which he, therefore, missed out on.

Having two principal designers for one area meant the strip has a more uniform appearance. The styles they preferred featured very classical facades. Today, the Golden Bend keeps its name and is home to some of the largest banks and financial institutions in Amsterdam. Very appropriate.

De Bazel

Almost unmissable is the domanieering De Bazel building on the corner of Herengracht and Vijzelstraat. The building is the former headquarters of the Nederlandsche Handel-Maatschappij. The NHM was founded in 1824 by King William I to promote trade, shipping, shipbuilding, fishing, agriculture and manufacturing. One of their most important functions was supporting trade between the Netherlands and the Dutch East Indies. The building was designed by the architect Karel de Bazel in 1919. It is nicknamed De Spekkoek, which translates to pork belly. It is named as such because of the alternating light and dark colours of stone that look like layers of fat in bacon. Spekkoek is also the name of a popular dessert with the same light and dark layers but made with cake.

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Herengracht 446

The beautiful black brick facade at #446 was home to the Amsterdam regent family De Graeff. Andries de Graeff became the reigning mayor of Amsterdam in 1671. De Graeff was a Free Imperial Knight of the Holy Roman Empire. The Free Imperial knights were free nobles of the Holy Roman Empire, whose direct overlord was the Emperor. The upper gable is a stone shield with the De Graeff family coat of arms emblazoned on it. The coat of arms comprises two white swans and two shovels in either corner of the shield. The shovel represents the Herren von Graben family and the swans from the De Grebber family who joined together to form this new noble house.

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Koningssluis

The Koningssluis bridge is one of the more uniquely designed bridges in Amsterdam. The original bridge was from 1662, but the current incarnation was made in 1921 by architect Piet Kramer. Instead of removing the entire old stone bridge, Kramer worked to integrate the ancient stones with new decorative wrought iron railings. He was inspired by the art deco fashion of the time. Don’t miss checking out the stone and brick corner of the bridge. These feature stone sculptures in the shape of mythical animals which are little hidden gems to discover.

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Herengracht 394

The house on the corner of Herengracht and Leidsegracht is home to the ‘De Vier Heemskinderen‘ house. Notice the iconic house symbol above the doorway featuring a horse with four riders. This depicts the medieval story of the Four Sons of Aymon or the Heemskinderen. The house was built during the canal expansion in 1671. The high neck gable is decorated with carved floral garlands, which also embellish brick around the windows.

Herengracht 390-392

The houses along Herengracht 390-392 both feature incredible Dutch Baroque claw pieces adding a bit of interest to their neck gables. The houses were commissioned as a duo by the wood merchant Jan Teeringh and designed by Justus Vingboons. The ornately carved claw piece consists of a male and female figure leaning on the gable. A large cartouche was carved below them. On either side of the window are two large floral festoons, made to look like the stone facade has begun to bloom.

Museum of the Canals

If you are interested in learning more about the history of the canals in Amsterdam, make a stop inside the Museum of the Canals. Inside this historic grand mansion, you will travel back in time through over 400 years of history. You’ll be able to learn more about the history of Amsterdam and how the canals and the canal houses were built atop the water. Through minature scale models, 3D animations and interactive multimedia experience, you are really immersed into the world of Amsterdam’s history.

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Herengracht 380

Herengracht 380 is probably my favourite house along the Herengracht. It looks so much different than the rest of the buildings along the canal, in a very distinctive style. It was built in 1775 adjoining three other buildings which once stood here. Sadly, in the 19th century, a great fire burned down the old buildings, and they all had to be demolished. But this new treasure rose from their ashes. The architect Abraham Salm was inspired by his time in Paris and the castles he saw in the Loire valley. The french style of architecture is a rarity to find in Amsterdam. The facade is covered in exuberant decorations, carved medallions, large sculptures, ornate balustrades and sandstone lilies (an iconic symbol of France). Although it was initially designed as a residence, it has since passed hands and is a government office building today.

Cromhout House

The houses along 370-364 are lovely examples of the lavish designs of the 17th century. Initially built for wealthy merchant Jacob Cromhout, the house was designed in 1660 in Dutch classicist style by architect Philips Vingboons. The lower facade is mainly classical but the gables are covered in a stunning array of intricate stucco decorations, which are emblematic of the Dutch baroque area. Pay close attention to the oval oeil-de-boeuf windows surrounding gorgeous floral motifs. Besides the neck, gables are claw pieces in the shape of swirling shells, another element of baroque iconography. The building was previously home to the beautiful Bible Museum, but it closed permanently in 2020. The home is now used for travelling exhibitions.

Bartolotti House

The Bartolotti House at Herengracht 170 was built in 1617 for Willem Bartolotti van den Heuvel tot Beichlingen. Willem had married Giovanni Battista Bartolotti, who came from a wealthy family of merchants from Bologna. Hendrick de Keyser was the architect and one of the most influential Baroque Renaissance architects. And this house is perhaps the best example of his work. The richly decorated facade has pilasters, masks, vases, claw pieces, extensive balustrades, and one of the most elaborate stepped gables in the city. The actual facade of the house seems to be bent at a slight angle, as the home is located in what was called the “small bend” of the Herengracht. On the facade are two large cartouches with the inscription, “Ingenio et Assiduo Labore” (by ingenuity and diligence) on the left and “Religione et Probate” (by religion and righteousness) on the right.

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Herengracht 120

The charming black brick house with white accents at #120 was built in 1615 for cloth merchants Michiel Jansz de Lange and Adriaen Jacobsz van Noort. These merchants traded mainly with Norway, and they wanted to name their home after the King which they served. The style of the house with its large expansive windows is known as Amsterdam’s Urban Renaissance architecture.

Herengracht 81

One of the most spectacular historical houses is at #81. It announces its permanence with the date printed on the brick of 1590 when the house was first constructed. This is actually the oldest residential house in all of Amsterdam. It was initially a traditional merchant’s house, highlighted by those gorgeous wooden shutters. Before these brick buildings were constructed, in the medieval period in Amsterdam, all houses were built out of wood. But sadly, three great fires which ripped through the city destroyed all of these original homes. After the last fire in 1597, the government ensured all new houses were made in brick to help prevent future widespread fires. I adore the stepped gable located on this house; the red brick and white stone atop each step really highlight the shape and makes it so unique.

Melkmeisjesbrug

The Melkmeisjesbrug will take you from Herengracht over the Brouwersgracht. The word “Melkmeisjes” means “milk market.” When the bridge was first built in the 17th century, it was located near the large Dutch milk market. You’ll notice a set of three burgundy-coloured bollards situated on either end of the bridge. These were installed to prevent large vehicles from passing over the old bridge, which cannot withstand the weight. This was actually the first place they were installed. They are called the Amsterdammertje (Dutch for ‘little one from Amsterdam’). They are imprinted with three Saint Andrew’s Crosses from the coat of arms of Amsterdam.

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Singel Canal

Walking south from the Haarlemmer Sluice we will come upon the last of the canals in the Canal Belt; the Singel Canal. The Singel encircled Amsterdam’s medieval centre, serving as a moat around the city until 1585. The Dutch word “omsingelen” means “to surround” as the canal literally surrounded and protected the medieval old town as a makeshift fortress of water. The trench was dug in 1428, making it the oldest of the channels in the central belt.

Singel 7

On the east side of the canal at Singel #7, we find the little slice of a house. It barely registers as a house at all when you pass by it. This is indeed the narrowest house in Amsterdam. The house is literally only a door’s width wide, with a singular window located on the second floor. Since we know that the property was taxed based on width, this building would have been a real penny pincher.

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Ronde Lutherse Kerk

Although it’s now used as an event space, the imposing Ronde Lutherse Kerk or Nieuwe Lutherse Kerk was once the former New Lutheran church in Amsterdam. It was built in 1668 as the second and thus “new” Lutheran Church after the Old Lutheran Church had become too small. This building couldn’t cope with the many Lutheran immigrants coming into the city.

Lutheran architecture forbids the construction of bell towers, so instead, the architect wanted to make the great dome as the central focus of the church. Crowning the top of the dome is the Lutheran swan. The swan is a famous symbol in the Lutheran church because of its connection with Jan Hus. Hus was a key predecessor to the Protestant movement in Bohemia during the 16th century. His teachings had a strong influence on Martin Luther. When Hus was sentenced to be burnt alive, just before he said, “today you will roast a goose, but a swan will rise from the ashes.”

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Londenvaarders

The area along the Singel canal from the Ronde Lutherse Kerk to the Lijnbaanssteeg is known as Londenvaarders. This part of the canal was where ships coming in from London would be docked. Anyone walking around this area during the 17th century would find English sailors and merchants everywhere they looked and it became a de facto embassy for Englishmen.

Singel 36

Look across the canal at #36 Singel. From this further away vantage point, you can really appreciate the elegance of the beautiful cornice in Louis XV style, which tops the house. In the centre of the richly decorated balustrade is this incredible carving of the god Mercury lounging, holding in his hand a large purse. Surrounding the relaxed god is a series of items relating to the trade industry like barrels, wine and animals. The house was originally built in 1763 for shipowner and trader Tamme IJsbrandsz Beth. Beth was troubled by the arrival of the British and the fact the London ships took over the area and wanted to create a powerful facade that would show his dominance over the British fleets.

Blauwburgwal

Continue along the Singel canal until you come to the Blauwburgwal canal on your left. The Blauwburgwal canal is the shortest waterway in the city center. It is sandwiched right between the Singel and the Herengracht by two scenic bridges. The trees which line either side of the little canal makes this such a picturesque little scene to stop in and look at.

De Dolphijn

Head back to the Single Canal and make your way down to #140. This is better known as the house De Dolphijn. The house was built in the 17th century for soap merchant Hendrick Laurensz Spieghel. The front facade consists of two identical stepped gables made of that iconic red brick with sandstone highlights. The house is one of the best examples of Dutch Baroque architecture in the style of Hendrick de Keyser.

The main characteristics of this style were the symmetrical facades created from brick using classical references. This can be seen with the addition of the images of Greek masks featured above the window pediments on the first floor. The house is one of the few facades in Amsterdam that still has scroll ornaments along the gables. Originally the house featured dolphins on both sides gable. The dolphin was the emblem of the Spieghel family, and therein is where the nickname of the house came from.

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The Torensluis

As we continue down the Single Canal, we come up the enormous Torensluis bridge. This bridge is the oldest and widest bridge in the entire city, preserved since 1648. It measures a whopping 42 meters wide! The word “Torensluis” means “tower lock,” as the bridge was once home to a great tower that stood here until the mid-19th-century. Looking back at the bridge from further along the canal, study the area under the bridge along either side of the arches. There you can spot several small barred windows. Beneath the bridge, there was once a dungeon and prison cells connected to the old tower. Truly an example of how ingenious the architects of the city were. Using every little bit of space to cram in more infrastructure.

Multatuli Statue

Most of the bridge is now used by the cafes nearby as patio space. But amidst these seats is a statue of Dutch writer Multatuli. Eduard Douwes Dekker, better known by his pen name “Multatuli,” was a Dutch writer best known for his satirical novel Max Havelaar. This book was one of the first to denounced the abuses of colonialism in the Dutch East Indies. It is a considered piece of writing from 1860. Multatuli was truly a man ahead of his time as an anti-colonialist.

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Singel 188

On the other side of the bridge at #188, we can find another great example of Amsterdam’s stone tablets. Most of the general public couldn’t read during the middle ages. Therefore to help businesses bring in customers, these stone tablets used pictorial images to depict their goods and services. This is a perfect example as the tablet above the doorway features a windmill. The house is named the “De Roo Oly Molen” or “The Red Oil Mill.” A few doors down at #194, you can find another example of a cobbler’s shop. This stone features a shoe and some cobbing equipment. Hundreds of years ago people would have just one shoe to their name and repairing their shoes was much more common than we do today. Early examples of sustainability.

Singel 192

The house at #192 features a beautiful neck gable with this curved pediment featuring a brightly painted bunch of grapes. The house was built in 1739 in Louis XIV style for the wine merchant Arend Roger. Just another example of how some merchants liked to advertise their businesses through their gable architecture. Something I genuinely wish we still did today, a great way to get to know your neighbours!

Singel 288

The gable along the top of the house at #288 features this wonderfully playful dolphin’s head. The dolphin appears to be bursting forth from the house with a spray of water cresting up behind him. Dolphins are a frequent symbol seen throughout Amsterdam, even though the canals are not home to these sea creatures. But the animals have a deep connection to the sailors and sailing merchants who would greet these great beasts on their voyages. Incorporating them into their home designs was a means of keeping that connection to the waters close to home.

Singel 326

The 18th-century house at #326 features the most incredible scene on either side of the beautiful neck gable. Sitting against the curved claw pieces are statues of Neptune and Mercury holding a golden trident and caduceus, respectively. Surrounding the lifting beams are also a swath of Acanthus leaves. Acanthus leaves are a symbol of enduring life. When combined with the images of Mercury, we can imagine that this house was perhaps a doctor’s residence.

Old Lutheran Church

The sizeable windowed building at #411 is the Old Lutheran Church. And when I say old, I mean old. It was built in 1632, that’s over 350 years ago! The church is a very, very odd one to visit. It is such an irregular shape. The floorplan curving to flank the edge of Spui road on the northern side of the building.

Singel 460

House #460 Singel is better known as the House Nürnberg or the Odeon building. It was designed by famed architect Philips Vingboons in 1661. However, previously, the lot had been used as a brewery as early as 1586. What makes this building stand out is the tall neck gable. The building is built in a rich, dark burgundy brick with contrasting light sandstone curved claw pieces decorated with elaborate festoons. Two oeil-de-boeuf windows stand below either side of the claw pieces. A large Cartouche surrounds the huge lifting hook. The festoons from the upper levels hang down below the windows. Looks like the building has been decorated for the holidays every day of the year!

Bloemenmarkt

Walking along Singel crossing the Koningsplein, we enter the great Bloemenmarkt. The Bloemenmarkt is the world’s only floating flower market founded in 1862. Back then, this part of the city was where flower growers would enter the canal to sell their plants. They travelled on large barges that floated beside the canal and buyers would simply hop on the barge. The barge would sit beside the streets and return to their ships once all the flowers were sold. Today the barges are affixed to the mainland. Sadly, much of the original flower market has disappeared over the years. Few to no vendors actually sell blooming flowers here. Instead, the market is mainly a tourist attraction with gift shops and souvenir stands. These focus primarily on tulip paraphernalia.

Tulip Bulbs

Some of the vendors do sell fresh tulip bulbs which you can bring home to plant. But only if your country allows them through customs (be sure to check!) Although it’s super touristy, I actually loved looking at the varieties of tulip bulbs for sale. It’s incredible to see how many different colours and even new “designer” flowers have been created. They were made by combining different strains of tulips together in the lab. If you can try to ignore the hoards of tourists and just focus on this, you might actually get something out of a visit to the Bloemenmarkt. But the Bloemenmarkt can get super crowded! You only need to see a portion of it to get the idea. I would advise jumping down Sint Jorisstraat and then walking along Reguliersdwarsstraat until you reach Vijzelstraat. This little back street is a great way to avoid the crowds.

Munttoren

Walking over Muntsluis bridge to find your way to the great Munttoren (Mint Tower), which sits at the intersection of the Amstel River and the Singel Canal. The great tower was initially located at the entrance to the city’s main gates along Amsterdam’s medieval wall. The original building was made in 1480 and consisted of two towers and a guardhouse. After the great fire of 1618, the tower was rebuilt as you see it today in Amsterdam Renaissance style. The entire structure was replaced in 1885 but maintains its medieval design.

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In the 17th-century, during the Dutch wars against England and France, the city was occupied by these factions. The transportation of coins from their location outside the city was impossible with these restrictions. So the guardhouse was set up as a temporary mint, giving the tower its official nickname. The building features a beautiful tower design by Hendrick de Keyser. They installed a clock face on every side of the spire so that citizens on every corner of town could look to it to tell the time.

The Dancing Houses

Make a quick detour over the Halvemaansbrug and onto ‘s-Gravelandseveer street. From here you have the best vantage point over to the famous Amsterdam Dancing Houses. Since houses in Amsterdam were built upon muddy marshland and stand on old pine-wood poles, some of the houses have begun to shift and sink over time. Surprisingly it’s not the weight of the house that creates the unevenness, but the water level. So long as the pole remains under the water, its integrity is preserved. But the second the water level drops, the wood can start to rot. The rot weakens the structure and causes this sagging effect. Although many houses are sinking, this row of houses seems to be suffering the most. They have become affectionately known as the “dancing queens” or “dancing houses.” The wobbling levels making them appear as though they are dancing up and down.

Grimburgwal

Just around the corner from the Dancing Houses is the Grimburgwal. This canal marks the outskirts of the Red Light District. The Grimburgwal also marks the entrance to the Medieval centre of Amsterdam. This narrow watery passageway connects the great Oudezijds Voorburgwal to the Amstel river via the Rokin canal. The name “Grimburgwal” comes from the word “grim,” which means “muddy ditch” and “burgwal” which means earthen wall. This part of the city was home to this large earthen wall dug out along the muddy waters used to protect the medieval city. The wall was destroyed in 1384 during the city’s expansion. The Grimburgwal remained the city’s southern canal border until 1425 when the canal belt began to be constructed. It’s a small, almost forgettable canal today, but its rich history is something to take note of.

The view from the Amstel River along the medieval Groenburgwal, with the steeple of the Southern Church in the background, has been painted by several famous painters over the years. Rembrandt himself would come here to paint as the canal was so close to his home. But the most famous painting of the canal was made in the 19th-century by impressionist painter Monet.

Kloveniersburgwal

From Grimburgwal walk back towards the Aluminium Bridge, which crosses over the Kloveniersburgwal. The Kloveniersburgwal canal was dug out in the 15h-century originally designed as a defensive canal to protect the Oudeschanst. The canal’s name comes from the division of the civic guards called the ‘kloveniers‘ who worked along with these defences.

During the Second World War, Kloveniersburgwal was the border of the Jewish quarter. It was here that the Germans started to segregate the Jewish population of Amsterdam before sending most of them off to concentration camps. At one point, more than 25,000 Jewish people were living here. Sadly, 75-80% of the people from the neighbourhood were deported and murdered by the Nazis. After the war, this part of town must have been hauntingly empty, a constant memory of the loss.

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal

Walk west along Vendelstraat, through the pedestrian walkway north towards the Sleutelbrug, which looks out over the entrance to the Oudezijds Voorburgwal. The Oudezijds Voorburgwal (often abbreviated to OZ Voorburgwal) means “old city walls.” This area was where the defensive ramparts continued around the old medieval city. The canal was originally nothing more than a little creek but was dug out to create this large waterway in the 14th century. As the canal was one of the first large expansions, it is where we can find some of the oldest buildings in Amsterdam.

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Red Light District

During the Dutch Golden Age, the canal was a hub for commerce and ships coming into port. This influx of sailors led to the development of what we now call the “Red Light District.” While some people only come here to gawk at the red light dancing girls, there is so much more to this historic canal to see and appreciate.

Despite the fact that today the area is known for its illicit activities, in the middle ages, the canal was where you could find a large number of monasteries, churches and religious institutions. During the 17th century, many wealthy Catholic merchants made this part of the city their home. Back then, the area was nicknamed the “Velvet defence-canal“. Sort of a dig at the rich merchants who lived here who were known for dressing in fancy velvet clothing.

House at the Three Canals

At the intersection of the Oudezijds, the Achterburgwal and the Grimburgwal, we find the Huis Aan De Drie Grachten or House on the Three Canals. Name because it is located at this meeting point of these three famous waterways. This house is so fantastical, designed in high Dutch Renaissance style. I especially love the large leaded glass window and set-in brick arches above them. The charming red wooden shutters making it so classical Dutch looking. The house was originally two separate lots built around 1610!

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The house was designed for bricklayer Claes Adriaensz van Delft. Seeing as it was made for a bricklayer it is only appropriate that the bricks on this house are among the most impressive parts of the entire building. During the 1930s, a bookstore was opened in the house. Inside, the various bookshelves hid behind them, secret compartments where Jewish people on the run from the Germans could hide. These hidden compartments were only discovered in 2005 during renovations to the building. Adding to the already illustrious history of the building.

Agnietenkapel

Behind this grand arched entrance, is the doorway into the old Agnietenkapel, also known as the Chapel of the Convent of Saint Agnes. This is one of the oldest structures in the city, dating back to 1470. In the 15th century, the area along the southern half of Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal was called the stille zijde or the “quiet side.” This so-called peaceful part of town became popular with religious institutions looking for a monastic place to build their home. Away from the hustle and bustle of the raucous trade center. Very ironic today that all these churches are now located in what would be considered the most unholy neighbourhoods, the Red Light District.

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Athenaeum Illustre

In 1578, when the Catholic city government was deposed in favour of the Protestant one, all Catholic churches and monasteries were demolished. This was called the Alteratie, or the “alternative.” But the Agnietenkapel was thought to be too beautiful to be destroyed. Instead, in 1631 it was converted into the Athenaeum Illustre. The Athenaeum Illustre, or Amsterdamse Atheneum, was a city-sponsored ‘illustrious school.’ An Athenaeum Illustre was neither a university nor just a school. It fell somewhere between where it would teach at an academic level, but there were no degrees given out. In the 17th century, each province was only allowed one official university, and Holland already had a university at Leiden. It wasn’t until 1815 that it was recognized as an official academic institution where diplomas could be given out. Leading to its transformation into the University of Amsterdam.

Church Gate

The Agnietenpoort or Church Gate is fantastically carved with so many ornaments placed along the archway. You can see why they decided to preserve it when it changed hands from the church. On the top, set into a large shield is the Amsterdam coat of arms. The coat of arms of Amsterdam consists of a red shield (here just plain stone) with three silver Saint Andrew’s Crosses down the middle highlighted by a black pale. The black pale symbolizes the Amstel River, while the three crosses represent the three dangers of Old Amsterdam: fire, floods and the Black Death. St. Andrew is the patron saint of Amsterdam as he is the patron saint of fisherman as the city was originally just a small fishing village.

Surrounding the coat of arms is typical Vredeman de Vries motifs. Hans Vredeman de Vries was a Dutch Renaissance architect best known for his publication in 1583 on garden designs. Inside this book were many drawings of floral ornamentations that have since been referenced ever since on buildings all over the city. A large cartouche frames the emblem with the year 1631 below and a roaring lion on top. The Dutch Republic Lion was the badge of the Union of Utrecht and a precursor of the current coat of arms of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. You’ll find lion symbols all over the city to represent this ancient heraldry.

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Amsterdam Municipal Pawnshop

Pawnshops have truly been around forever! Proof positive of this fact is the old Municipal Pawnshop found along the canal. This building was established in Amsterdam in 1616. It was created as a municipal charity to protect poor people from shady loan sharks. These loan sharks would lend out money at a sky-high interest rate that made it impossible to ever pay back and get out of debt. The Amsterdam Municipal Pawnshop, or Stadsbank van Lening, was started as a not-for-profit city bank that still operates today! It is considered the oldest bank in Amsterdam and one of the oldest banks in the world!

Above the doorway, you’ll find the city coat of arms topped by the Emperor’s crown. In gold lettering, along the pediment over the doorway, is a poem in Dutch. It reads, “Have you neither money nor property, pass this door. Have you the last, and do you miss the first, come to me. Give pledge, I give you money, why should I guarantee you? Or isn’t it enough that you live off mine? But if you return your pledge, you must take care in time. That my principal will return with interest. I help you and me and show it to the investigators. Of my secrets, the grave of forgotten usurers.“

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The Prinsenhof

Another holy institution located along the Oudezijds Voorburgwal was the St. Cecilia Monastery. The original church was built in the early 15th century but after the Alteratie, the Catholic institution was converted into the city’s Prinsenhof in 1581. It was named the ‘Prinsenhof‘ after Prince William of Orange. In the late 16th century, the prince of Orange was the ruler of the Netherlands and would often use the building as his primary residence. It was later used as the Admiralty in the 17th century.

Prinsenhof as City Hall

In 1808 King Louis Bonaparte pulled the old switcharoo and wanted to convert the beautiful Dam City Hall into his Royal Palace. This meant the city needed to find a new location for its city hall. Seeing as the Prinsenhof was little used at this time, it was selected as their new City Hall. The building was used as accommodation for visiting dignitaries, mayors and, of course, city council meetings. When the city council moved in, the building saw a huge change in the architecture to suit its new function.

Amsterdam School Style

The new style of architecture which came out of the building of the new city hall was called, “Amsterdam School Style.” Like all variations of Dutch architecture, it heavily featured brickwork. The use of bricks is the primary building material in Amsterdam is due to the fact that the city’s access to clay. Clay is found in abundance around the rivers which encircle the city. Amsterdam School structures are also characterized by a rounded appearance, as demonstrated here by the curved facade bowing out towards the canal. The style also tended to favour decorative masonry, wrought iron accents, spires and ‘ladder’ windows. The style is slightly reminiscent of the Art Deco design aesthetic but with a Dutch interpretation. The decorative masonry here features large artistic pillars along the first floor. They depict men and women as symbols correlating to administrative virtues such as simplicity, courage, and diligence.

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City Hall Public Urinal

Across from Oudezijds Voorburgwal #195 is a small brick and stone cylindrical structure which is actually a public urinal! A urinal probably seems like a very strange thing to make a point to visit. But this urinal has become an actual National Monument. It was built in 1926 and renovated for the new City hall. The urinal was designed to fit into the same uniform Amsterdam school style as the City Hall. Right on top of the urinal entrance, you’ll find another sculpture designed by artist Hildo Krop. This sculpture matches the same sculptures on the pillars outside the City Hall. If nature calls, men can still use the rudimentary bathroom today!

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal 187

The Dutch Classical black brick building at #187 has a very interesting gable design, specifically around the ornate claw pieces. The house was built in 1663 for an American tobacco trader. We can tell the house was designed for a merchant working in the Americas because of the imagery featured in the claw pieces. We can see sculptures of the merchant’s enslaved Africans holding tobacco leaves. Above them are pictured personifications of indigenous workers carrying large harvest baskets. 

Amsterdam’s Architecture of Colonial Exploitation

Many parallels can be drawn between America’s colonization and the enslavement of the African people to the Netherlands’ own dark colonial past. Everyone knows that the “Dutch Golden Age” was the city’s great boom in the 17th century brought about by its free and tolerant society and its enormous trading empire. With the creation of the Dutch East India Company, the Netherlands had an empire of ships that roamed the coastlines of Asia and Africa.

But it wasn’t just spice and silks they brought home. They also colonized countries and robbed them of their natural resources. And although the Dutch didn’t bring slaves back to their home country, the colonies suffered through a period of around 200 years of slavery until it was abolished in 1863. While houses like this and other images of slavery are tough to observe, it’s essential to understand and accept this period of Amsterdam’s history. You can learn a lot more about Amsterdam’s Architecture of Colonial Exploitation in this great article!

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 136

The house on Oudezijds Voorburgwal #136 was first built in the 16th century. Above the doorway, there is an iconic wooden relief featuring the famous navy officer Admiral Cornelis Tromp. Cornelis Maartenszoon Tromp lived in Amsterdam but never at this particular residence. In fact, the relief wasn’t installed until well after his death. The house was purchased by trader Jan Pranger who had a great reverence for Cornelis Tromp as a fellow sea traveller.

Admiral Cornelis Tromp Stone Tablet

Tromp can be seen in his heroic pose, his hand resting on a large globe above a scrolled nautical chart in the background. The relief was hidden for years when the house was converted into a printing shop that covered up the old plaque. In the 1990s, when the house was being refurbished, the old emblem was released, and they went about restoring the brightly painted colours to their former glory. The house basement was converted into a sex shop in 1980 but today the house serves as the headquarters for the green energy initiative in Amsterdam.

Bulldog Coffeeshop

The Bulldog Coffeeshop is a famous landmark in the neighbourhood as it is the oldest “coffee shop” in Amsterdam. It was established in 1974 as a secret “speakeasy” for soft drugs. Despite multiple raids over the years, eventually, the city began to tolerate the sale of these drugs. Many people think marijuana is legal in Amsterdam, and surprisingly that’s not the case. But it is generally accepted, even by the police, who look the other way. The original location is worth visiting as you can discover more about the history of cannabis in Amsterdam inside.

Even if you don’t partake in the consumption, you can’t visit Amsterdam without seeing what these “coffee shops” are all about. Plus, this location has a full menu with food and drink options that don’t contain any drugs. I myself don’t partake but still had a blast checking them out and seeing what a comfortable, friendly atmosphere I was greeted with inside.

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The Oude Kerk

The crowing glory of the Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal is the grand Oude Kerk. The Oude Kerk or “Old Church” is named as such because is the oldest religious institution in the city. The first wooden part of the structure was constructed here in 1213! Originally the church was named St. Nicolas Church after the patron saint of the city.

The area they selected for the church was a sold mound in the otherwise marshy settlement. This allowed the church to grow in size without requiring much additional foundation work. Today the church sprawls out over 36,000 sq ft. Each generation of Amsterdam’s religious elite seemed to have added their own personal touch in its expansion. In the 14th century, the side aisle was lengthened, and the great medieval wooden vaults were installed. These remain to this day are the oldest medieval wooden vault in all of Europe. The vaults were made out of great Estonian oak planks. Some of the plants were stained in various colours to look like paintings on the ceiling. Bands of florals surround each part of the vault with golden stars decorating the keystones. These vaults are still thought to provide some of the best acoustics even amongst the more modern churches.

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Miracle of Amsterdam

In the 14th century, the church was the site of the “Miracle of Amsterdam.” One day, a dying man accepted the sacramental bread during communion. But after ingesting it, he began to vomit it up in a fit of pain. When the priests threw the vomit into the fire, the bread did not burn, and the act was proclaimed a miracle. Even stranger than the miracle itself was the fact that the vomitted bread was preserved in a relic chest and kept inside the church. Sadly their miracle relic was one of the many items which disappeared during the Alterie.

Stained Glass

In the 15th century, a north and south transept were added to change the floorplan of the church into a cross shape. The beautiful large windows inside the church were installed in 1406 and were once covered in vibrant stained glass. More and more windows were added over the years, totalling 33 large-scale artfully made scenes. Sadly during the great fire of 1536 and the gunpowder explosion in 1654, all of these original windows were destroyed.

Most of the windows are now plain glass replacements but, beginning in the 20th century, these windows began to be restored. Using paintings, drawings and historical architectural plans, the church museum started to create modern interpretations of the ancient windows. There were created by artist Joep Nicolas. The windows depict various biblical stories, such as the Parable of the Prodigal Son and the story of baby Moses. But they also commissioned some modern, secular scenes as well. Inside the Memorial window are depictions of WWII victims who were killed during the Nazi occupation. The Libration window also commemorates the Netherlands’ liberation from the German and Japanese occupiers.

Oude Kerk & the Alterie

After the Catholic Reformation in Amsterdam during the late 16th century, the church was looted and defaced on multiple occasions. This stripped the church of much of its original decorations save for a few paintings. The thieves couldn’t reach them as they were installed high up under the vaults. After the Reformation, the church was used as a meeting house for the public. People would come here to escape the cold and the rain to gossip, sell their goods, and it was even used as a de-facto homeless shelter.

In the 17th century, the church was reconsecrated and been given a fresh coat of paint. New decorations were installed, including a new oak screen which referred to the desecration during Reformation. It states, “The prolonged misuse of God’s church, was here undone again in the year seventy-eight.”

Rembrandt & Oude Kerk

One of the most famous Dutch painters, Rembrandt himself, was a frequent visitor to the Oude Kerk. All of his children were baptized inside the temple, and it is one of the few original buildings left in Amsterdam where the painter roamed the halls. His wife, Saskia van Uylenburgh was buried here in 1642 inside the Holy Sepulchre. Another famous figure buried is naval hero Jacob van Heemskerck who was a central figure in Rembrandt’s masterpiece The Night Watch.

Today, the church is used as a contemporary art gallery where the ancient architecture is the backdrop for modern art. Entry into the church costs €12 for adults and €7 for students; children under 13 are free. On Sunday mornings, the church still opens its doors for worshippers for free but only for those serious about coming in to pray.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 57

Across the bridge from the Oude Kerk at #57 is a gorgeous example of Amsterdam Renaissance architecture made by the famous architect Hendrick de Keyser. They call the house the De Gecroonde Raep. It features one of the finest examples of stepped gables in Amsterdam. With these gorgeous scalloped stone carvings above each step. The facade also features these beautiful brace arches above the windows with smallmasks set into the pediments. Iconic features of Keyser are the double pilasters with cartouches set in between the brick pillars.

Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic Museum)

Hidden behind an otherwise simple brick facade is an example of a “schiller” or “clandestine church.” After the Reformation, Catholics needed to practise their religion undercover. A few old houses on the canal were converted into these secret churches. This church went by the name Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic Museum). It was built by a Catholic merchant in 1663 who transformed his third-floor attic space into the beautiful yet cramped religious wonderland you find today. Personally, I adore the pink-painted balustrades and railings, such a unique touch.

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Visiting the Museum

After Catholics could practice in public once more, the church was exposed and opened as a museum in 1888. This makes it the second oldest museum in Amsterdam. Today, it remains a museum visited by over 85,000 people annually. In addition to viewing the secret church, you can also tour the 17th-century merchant canal house interior. Tickets are €14 for adults and €7 for children and students.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 18

House at #18 bears a striking (if not a simplified version) of the house saw a few doors down at #57. The curved arches above double pilasters are a clear sign of the work of Hendrick de Keyser. Above the third floor, there are face masks, but on the lower levels, we find lion masks. Above the stone gable is a relief depicting the legendary castle of Egmond aan den Hoef.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 14

The Het Wapen van Riga, at #14, is a 17th-century merchant’s house. In the center, we find relief of the coat of arms of the country of Riga. The original house was built for a wealthy merchant who was indeed from Riga and this emblem was a way of paying homage to his home. The lions are a powerful symbol of the city of Riga. Two golden lions on a grey plinth were thought to symbolizes the strong foundation of the city and the bravery of its citizens. You can also find two of Riga’s lion heads protruding off either side of the stone gable on the first floor.

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Oudezijds Kolk

Walk over and stand on the old Armbrug bridge to look out over the Oudezijds Kolk. During the Middle Ages, most of the canals in Amsterdam looked more like this canal. The old canals didn’t feature any sidewalks or laneways as the primary mode of transport was solely boats. When the newer canals around the canal belt were built, the boom of horse-drawn carriages had taken over. These canals were built to feature roads for horses and eventually cars to travel along. This canal is one of the last remains medieval canals in Amsterdam and a gem to treasure.

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Weeping Tower of Amsterdam

At the end of the Oudezijds Kolk canal, you will find the largest of the three remaining medieval city towers. It goes by the Weeping Tower of Amsterdam. The legend goes that the wives of the sailors who were off to sea would come up to the tower to wave their last goodbye. Tears obviously ensued, echoing down the canals. The life of a sailor was a tough one as storms, scurvy, war, and pirates were all things that a sailor would come up against at sea. And most of these wives knew that upon saying goodbye there was a good chance they would never return.

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This brings us to the end of our canal tour of Amsterdam. Hopefully, you’ve discovered more about the history, architecture, canals, and culture spread out across the waterways throughout our day together. There are so many more secrets to be found down all the different side canals in this city so let me know if you want to share some of your favourite spots!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Amsterdam Canal Tour On Foot first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Touring the building also serves as a history lesson about the Slavic people, Czech culture and even art. The basilica doesn’t have St. Vitus’s lofty status or the draw that St. Nicholas’ Church gets. But if you make an effort to come down and visit, you’ll see what the rest of those unknowing tourists are missing out on.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Location
3. Hours & Admission
4. Towers
5. Facade
6. Interior
7. Frescos
8. The Treasure Room
9. Vyšehrad Cemetery

History

The church was founded in 1070 by the Czech King Vratislav II. Initially, it was a simple Romanesque Basilica. Prince Vratislav II had the church built in purposeful opposition to St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague Castle. Almost a hundred years earlier, his predecessor, Wenceslaus I, had built St. Vitus Cathedral. But rather than pray instead of this old church, Vratislav wanted to make something of his own to mark his reign. In Vyšehrad, Vratislav was said to have brought 12 baskets of stones upon which they built the foundation of what would become the Basilica of St Peter and St Paul.

But, in 1249, a great fire destroyed the church, and the original design was lost to the ages. The first reconstruction was a relatively meagre endeavour meant to restore the building only in function and not in fashion. Years later, a baroque frontispiece was added to the church, but the neo-gothic renovations in the 1880s removed any trace of this architecture.

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Joseph Mocker

In 1885, a new renovation was commissioned to create an elaborate, neo-gothic church. Master builder Joseph Mocker was the original architect, but he died halfway through construction. His partner František Mikš finished the job. Now having complete artistic control of the operations, Mikš made a few changes to the original layout to suit his own personal style. His main addition to the design was the towering facade that the church is now so famous for. As it peaks out of the hillside in Vysehrad.

Location

The Basilica is located inside the complex of Vysehrad. Vysehrad is one of Prague’s old fortresses situated on a high cliff above the river Vltava. From here, soldiers could easily see any incoming armies and it was a prime location for Prague’s infantry. In the 11th century, Vysehrad was also the seat of the first King of Bohemia. After the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV began to build the Prague Castle in the early 14th century, Vyšehrad was abandoned as the royal family’s primary residence.

The complex was left to deteriorate for years and wasn’t touched until Charles IV decided to renew the area. He wanted to build new fortifications, a new royal palace, and finally see to the renovations at the Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul. But, with the Hussite war’s dawn, progress was discontinued, and the church was ransacked once more. It wouldn’t be for another few hundred years that the church would be restored to a new form of heavenly glory.

Hours & Admission

November – March
Monday – Saturday 10 am – 5 pm
Sunday 11:30 am – 5 pm

April – October
Monday – Saturday 10 am – 6 pm (5:30 on Thursday)
Sunday 11:30 am – 6 pm

There is a small entrance fee to access the church. Adult entry costs 90 CZK ($4 USD), which is more than worth it to explore this treasure!

Towers

Upon walking up to the church one of the first things you’ll be drawn to, are the two huge towers, which flank the skyline. Let your eyes float up to the top of the spires, and notice that they are indeed hollow. Their design was influenced by the chestnut flowers’ cone-like formations. Architect Miks was inspired by these plants, which bloom right behind the church in Vyšehrad cemetery. Decorating the spires’ outer edges and the triangular gables are frilled, petal-like protrusions which make the entire structure look more naturalistic than man-made.

Facade

The design of the building is quite unique as it features no transept. A transept is the part of the building that forms the classical shape of a cross and cuts through the center of the church. Since the building has no horizontal intersection, when you look at it from the front it almost looks like a movie set, an exterior with nothing behind it. So when you walk inside, it’s almost a surprise to see his lofty, extended interior.

Above the central entrance door is the tympanum, decorated an intricate carving of Jesus standing tall beside his apostles, during the Last Judgement. Below the group of the apostles, St. Michael is centred, ushering people into heaven. A chorus of angel trumpets their horns above his head, announcing their entry to the heavenly realm. The people around St. Michael are sculpted as crippled and in pain, weighed down by the burden of their sins.

St. Peter and St. Paul

Above the central portal is a great pediment featuring the two saints’ statues after which the church is named after. St. Peter and St. Paul are set on either side of the sculpture of Jesus, crowned with a golden halo, reaching his hand out in prayer to the people below.

Mosaics on the church’s frontispiece, set into quatrefoils frames, depict St. Peter and St. Paul’s portraits. Peter’s symbols are a set of keys, which are the keys to heaven. Peter is the one with a bright white beard wearing papal vestments. Paul holds a book and a sword with a hilt in the shape of a cross in his hands. Paul is depicted as traditionally represented with a long pointed beard and a more modest, grey robe.

Portals

The portals on either side of the central entrance are adorned with brightly coloured mosaics. Etched onto the church’s door are the symbols of the coat of arms of the Czech Republic. The silver double-tailed lion on a red background and the black Moravian eagle are repeated across the grand entrance doors.

Above the entry doors, on your left, is the emblem of the Vysehrad Chapter house. The chapter was established here at the basilica around 1070 at the behest of Bohemia’s first king. The branch was subordinate only to Rome and could influence many aspects of Bohemia’s internal and foreign policy. Their emblem is two golden keys crossed tied together by rope. A symbol you’ll come across multiple times throughout your visit here.

Interior

As you step into the church, the first thing you’ll be stuck with is the fact that from floor to ceiling, the entire building is COVERED in murals and paintings. Not a column, nor walls, has been left untouched. The detailed pictures sweep across the walls like embroidery covering a royal gown. Floral trimmings cover every inch of the temple, giving you the feeling of walking into a forest.

Art Nouveau

As you walk inside, the light shimmers off every surface. Gilding and gold leaf were used in abundance during the renovations. But unlike other neo-gothic cathedrals and churches of the time, this one is not purely high gothic, but instead embraces art nouveau sensibilities. Art nouveau was sweeping the nation during the time church was being renovated. Art nouveau attempted to reject academic, historical art and instead embraced natural forms, movement, asymmetry and modern materials.

The addition of art nouveau inside this old church feels shockingly appropriate as the first King of Bohemia himself aimed to reject any previously established traditions when he originally built this church.

Frescos

The Basilica’s most extraordinary characteristic is the gilded frescos, which surround the faithful who come to pray. These paintings are ornate, undulating images by painter František Urban and his wife, Marie Urbanová-Zahradnická. These paintings look famously similar to the iconic designs made by famous Czech painter Alphonse Mucha. Many people who visit the church might even be convinced they were by Mucha if they further inquired. But Mucha was merely a trendsetter who inspired Urban and Zahradnická to fall on the bandwagon. Women and men, with delicate features and cascading hair, embellish the walls and archways.

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Running up every pillar are blooming patterns and colourful ribbons. The walls contain lots of vivid greens and deep brown hues, continuing the woodland theme. Even the dark church benches were carved with oak leaves, bringing the outdoors inside. Not a single item inside the church was left untouched by Art Nouveau’s seductive technique.

Murals

The murals on the northern wall feature images of St. Cyril and St. Methodius’ arrival in Bohemia. St. Cyril and St. Methodius were two brothers, theologians and missionaries who made their mark in Christianity by evangelizing the Slavs. They are known as the “Apostles to the Slavs.” Their life story is told across these murals framed by a series of angels who look down on the scene from heaven. Although there might not be any text to follow the images, it’s a visual way of understanding this part of Czech history. On the south wall, the murals depict the establishment of Vysehrad in the Czech Republic.

Look up at the vaults on the ceiling. Even they are painted with images of beautiful angels in prayer, looking down on the faithful below.

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Stained Glass Windows

Brightly coloured stained glass enhances the outer walls of the Basilica. Each window depicts a scene from the bible. But what makes these windows even more interesting to study is to look at the elements of architecture that have been incorporated into the glasswork. This is done almost to evoke the idea that architecture itself is a form of religious devotion. Renaissance tracery windows, gothic quatrefoils and baroque altarpieces all serve as the framing devices around these dramatic biblical stories.

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Chapel of St. Clement

Walking into the church, we will study it from the right side chapels, towards the altar and then continue back down the left side chapels and finish in the treasury. The first chapel you see upon entering on your right is the Chapel of St. Clement. Here, you can look at a Romanesque sarcophagus from the 12th century. During the Romanesque period, a crypt was built in the church to bury the first Bohemian king and his descendants. This coffin most likely belongs to one of these royal family members. Despite its modest and unassuming appearance, it’s one of the oldest treasures of the church.

Chapel of Czech Patron Saints

Inside the Chapel of Czech Patron Saints is a fabulous neo-gothic altar sculpted by Czech artist J. Kastner in 1910. In the center of the altar is Christ on the cross, heavenly rays illuminating from his body and from behind the cross, forming a golden backdrop. Below him are gathered St. Cyril and St. Methodius dressed in brighly coloured robes. In front of them kneels St. Wenceslas on the left and St. Ludmila on the right. On the left side of the group are Czech saints St. Vit and St. Vojtěch, and behind them stands St. Sigismund and members of brotherhood of martyrs. On the right side, kneels St. Jan Nepomucký and St. Prokop. Above them stands St. Norbert, Vol. Anežka, and Damian, St. Ivan, vol. Josef.

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Chapel of the Virgin Mary of the Rain

One of the most important items found here in the basilica is the Dešťová or the icon of the Virgin Mary of Rain. She can be found in the fourth side chapel from the right after entering the church. This wooden polychrome icon depicts the Virgin Mary and the baby Jesus set against a vibrant blue backdrop. The background is textured to give the mother and child the appearance of being caught in a rainstorm. The ground on which they stand is bright green like it is growing swiftly beneath them.

The painting was made around 1356 and is legend to have been painted by St. Luke himself. This icon is one in which people come from all over the country to pray in front of, especially in times of drought. The reason for this is because in 1638 there was a great drought in Prague which the icon is said to have stopped. During the drought, one of the priests of the Vyšehrad chapter had a dream that if he held a procession with the Madonna, it would start to rain before the crowds made their way to a nearby monastery. The priest organized the march, and sure enough, it rained in Prague for the next three days. The people of Bohemia saw it as a miracle, and ever since, the painting has been venerated by all those who believe in it.

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Memorial Plaque

To the left of the Chapel of the Virgin of the Ramparts is a bronze memorial plaque placed on a column close to the altar. This memorial plaque is dedicated to Vratislav II, the first King of Bohemia. The plaque is a modern addition to the church added in 1992 on the 900th anniversary of the King’s death. If you look at the shape embedded onto the plaque, it models the original basilica floor plan. On either side of the statue of the King are two crests, one which contains the black eagle of Moravia and the other has the two crossed keys which are the emblem of the Vyšehrad religious chapter.

Presbytery

On either side of the presbytery, there are murals depicting St. Peter and Paul’s legend. We can see the ‘Conversation of St.Paul‘ on the top left pediment on the northern wall. The following small scenes show his miracles: healing the disabled, his conversations with God while in jail and finally his beheading and subsequent canonization

On the southern side, we have the legend of St. Peter. On the top, we see Jesus converting his first disciples, which include Peter himself. In the lower images, we can see scenes of Jesus and Peter’s life together. It follows their journey leading up to Jesus’ crucifixion, including the moment when Peter denied Jesus. At the bottom of the mural, we can spot St. Peter performing miracles and his eventual death in the same manner as he had seen Jesus be put to death.

Altar

The main altar, framed in front of a series of brilliant stained glass windows, contains depictions of the Slav Saints Cyril and Methodius. It was carved by the architect and woodcarver Josef Hrubeš. The entire altar took over 5 years to be completed and was finished in 1889.

Pulpit

The gracefully carved wooden pulpit on the left of the nave features reliefs of the various priests who preached and were prior members of the Vyšehrad Chapter. The pulpit was designed by architect Josef Mocker and carved by woodworker V. Mráz in 1883.

Devil’s Pillar

After getting over the initial awe and wonder of the interior, take a walk towards the sacristry. Although you cannot enter the doors of the sacristy, take a look at the mural painted above the entry. Here we find a large baroque painting depicting the legend of the “Devil’s Pillar.”

The Legend

The legend goes that a priest in Bohemia, had a severe problem with gambling. In the hopes of freeing himself from his debts, he asked the devil to trade his soul for some luck. But shortly after making the deal, he greatly regretted this decision and asked the devil to forget the agreement. But the devil would not give up on a soul that easily. Instead the devil made him another bet. He told him that if the priest could finish celebrating mass before the devil could bring a column from St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome to Prague, he would release him from his contract. The priest ran as fast as he could to the church where he began preforming mass.

Of course, the devil cheated, and when he arrived by magic with the pillar in hand, St. Peter appeared and threw the devil into the sea three times. Each time he threw him, St. Peter broke the column until it was broken into three pieces. This allowed the priest to finish preforming mass, and his soul was saved. The three pieces of the Devil’s pillar were brought to Prague and can still be found in a nearby park close to the church.

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Chapel of St. Francis of Assisi

The Chapel of St. Francis of Assisi contains a neo-gothic altar with paintings of the life of St. Francis surrounding a large portrait of the saint himself. One of the best ways to identify St. Francis is by how he holds his hands outwards to show off the stigma that appears on them.

Chapel of St. John of Nepomuk

St. Jan Nepomucký or St. John of Nepomuk is one of the most famous saints in Bohemia. Nepomuk was drowned in the Vltava river at the behest of Wenceslaus IV when Nepomuk would not divulge the queen of Bohemia’s confessions to the King. His chapel here in the church contains a Neo-Gothic relic altar. Across the altar are scenes from the life of St. John of Nepomuk by Josef Mathauser who painted it around 1700. In the center of the altar of dozens of relics which are said to contain pieces of the saint himself.

Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows

Inside the Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows is an alluring sculpture of the Pietà by Ferdinand Stuplesser made in 1898. It was modelled off Michelangelo‘s famous Pietà in Rome but features sharper edges and more angular drapery, reflecting the style used in medieval manuscripts.

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The Treasure Room

The Vyšehrad Chapter was one of the more affluent monastic groups and collected valuable liturgical collections over the years. But in 1611, many of their most precious objects were looted during the Hussite wars. A few of their most treasured items were hidden away and can be seen on display inside the treasury. The Treasury inside the church contains all different precious ecclesiastical Czech objects. Baroque illustrated manuscripts, golden chalices and gem covered books hid behind protective glass.

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Some of the most precious items included in the treasury are reliquaries. A reliquary is a container for relics such as a saints’ physical remains, such as bones, pieces of clothing, or some object associated with saints or other religious figures. Here in the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul’s treasury you can find

St Valentine’s Relic

St Valentine’s relics. It is supposedly a chip of his shoulder blade. It was lost for years, and as recently as 2002, it was uncovered hidden away inside a gold-and-glass Baroque reliquary in the back of a long-forgotten storage closet.

Vyšehrad Cemetery

The set behind the church is the Vyšehrad Cemetery. Built in 1869, the cemetery was created as a resting place for some of Prague’s most treasured creatives. Here lies dozens of composers, artists, sculptors, writers, as well as those revolutionaries from the world of science and politics. The cemetery is the largest in Prague spreading over 0.81 hectares.

Slavín Tomb

The most majestic part of the cemetery is the Slavín Tomb, designed by Antonín Wiehl. The Slavín Tombs are considered a ‘pantheon,’ “a building in which the illustrious dead of a nation are buried or honoured.” The dramatic sculpture atop the tombs was carved by Josef Mauder. The pantheon contains 44 burial tombs, as well as various coffins and urns. 55 people were buried here under the magnanimous sculptures of “Mourning” and “Victory” represented as two alluring women.

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Famous Graves

Buried here is Alphonse Mucha, king of Czech Art Nouveau, along with; composer Antonín Dvořák, Art Nouveau sculptor Ladislav Šaloun, author Karel Čapek and many more.

The first person to be buried inside the Slavin Tomb was poet Julius Zeyer in 1901. On the tomb is inscribed one of his verses, “Its sons’ dust this mourning country returns to the earth. Their deeds it will, rejoicing, declare to all mankind.” Above the panels on the Slavín is written their motto, “Though dead, they still speak.”

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The rest of the tombs and gravestones found throughout the cemetery are wildly creative and works of art. It seemed like one after another, when people would pass away and be buried here, there was an expectation that their gravestone wouldn’t be something simple or traditional, rather something far more extraordinary.

There is even a large arcade, decorated with Tuscan sandstone pillars and a vaulted ceiling covered in art nouveau style paintings.

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This brings us to the end of the tour, but if you’re interested in spending more time in Vyšehrad, I implore you to do so! Just like this church is such a hidden gem, Vyšehrad has so many incredible places to visit and excellent restaurants that are happily tucked away from the tourist hoards.

In the comments, let me know if you were surprised not to see this church on other “must-see” lists in Prague or if you’ve been there before and were just as amazed as me by what you discovered!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Discover & Uncover the Hidden Gems of the Basilica of St Peter and St Paul in Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Walking Tour
2. History of Kyoto
3. Higashi Honganji Temple
4. The Founder’s Hall Gate
5. Kyosendo
6. Tofu Shop
7. Ayako Tenmangu Shrine
8. Walden Woods Kyoto
9. Fabric Stores
10. Ichihime Jinja
11. Ame-no-Mana-I Well
12. Gojo Rakuen
13. Takase River
14. Artists Studios
15. Yamauchi Nintendo
16. Shomem-bashi Bridge
17. Kanshundo Higashimisea
18. Toyokuni Shrine
19. Hoko-ji Temple

Map of Walking Tour

History of Kyoto

Although Kyoto is a modern city with 2.5 million inhabitants, it has a quiet, traditional side. Kyoto has evidence of settlements as early as the 6th century. But during the 8th century, Buddhists travelled to Kyoto from China to establish a new village that would become Kyoto.

In the 16th century, Toyotomi Hideyoshi designed urban Kyoto using rectangular and square blocks of houses. Everything was designed to be accessible and easy to navigate, much like the grid structure New York is modelled on today.

The Divison of Kyoto

The city of Kyoto, once the capital of Japan, was established in a precise location for a particular reason. The Buddhists of the period said that a city should only be built in a place where four gods can protect it. There needed to be a mountain to the North, a river to the east, a road to the west, and a plain with water to the south.

Kami of Kyoto

Each one of those elements represented a different Kami (Japanese god). The Tortoise god was represented by the North Mountains Hiei and Atago. The West Road represented the White Tiger God, which connected Japan to all the major cities to the west. The Red Phoenix god was characterized by the Uji River and the south plains. And finally, the great Dragon God was represented by the eastern Kamo River. These elements made Kyoto the perfect spot, as per Chinese legends.

Because Kyoto was saved from the extensive bombings by the USA in WWII, the town has preserved much of its original architecture. Walking along these backstreets, there are ordinary residential houses that feel like museum pieces. A piece of history from another time and place. And yet they are just as ubiquitous as anything else on the street.

Higashi Honganji Temple

Our tour begins at the Higashi Honganji Temple. The temple complex is enormous as Higashi Honganji is one of Japan’s most prominent Buddhist denominations, and this is its headquarters. Higashi Honganji has approximately 10,000 local temples, 50 regional offices and over 200 temples overseas.

Goeido and Amidado Halls

The two buildings standing in the centre of the grounds are the Goeido Hall (dedicated to Shinran, the sect’s founder) and the Amidado Hall (dedicated to the Amida Buddha, the most important Buddha in Jodo-Shin Buddhism). These buildings are of great historical importance and have been designated as UNESCO world heritage sites. We begin here because these incredible structures were the blueprint onto which even the most modest house, garden or shrine was built to emulate. You’ll see details from the temples here everywhere you look, in small bits and pieces as we go!

Cleansing Yourself Before Entering

Before entering the shrine, it is customary that you wash your hands. Washing is a means of cleansing the body before stepping onto the sacred ground. At the entrance to the temple, with a fierce dragon spewing water. Beneath him is a series of ladles. Take a spoon and, with water, pour it over one hand and the other. Finally, fill the scoop with water and pour it into your cupped hands. Rinse your mouth and spit the water beside the fountain (NOT INTO IT). Many visitors skip the mouth rinsing part, so if you’re not up for that, just be sure to cleanse your hands. Even if you are not religious, doing this is seen as a sign of respect in your visit to the temple.

Shin Buddism

Jōdo Shinshū, or Shin Buddhism, started in 1173. It is the most popular form of Buddhism practised in Japan, partly due to its simple methods. Shin Buddhism “focuses on daily practice, open-minded reflection, and the direct and personal religious experience of the transcending mystery of life, symbolized by Amida Buddha.“

Goeido Hall

The Goeido Hall is one of Japan’s largest wooden structures. Originally built in the Edo period (1603–1868), the current structure is a faithful reconstruction of the Meiji period (1868–1912).

Inside the main hall, you’ll find a peaceful spot for meditation. The high ceilings are dotted with golden chandeliers in the shape of blooming lotus flowers. 90 wooden pillars support the roof, complete with organically shaped capitals. Delicate tatami mats cover the floor, their light colour contrasting with the dark wood surrounding it. A large golden altar sits on a raised platform in front of the hall. On top of the altar is a wooden statue depicting “Shinran,” the founder of the Jodo Shinshu sect.

Amida Hall

Opposite the main hall, connected by a long wooden ramp, is the Amida Hall. This building was rebuilt in 1895 and contains a statue of the all-mighty “Amida Buddha.” Throughout the complex, you’ll pass through these large wooden walkways. The design of the walkways makes you feel as though they are extensions of the main structures, like limbs reaching out. Such a complex design displays the architectural prowess of the Edo period.

Dioramas

Outside on the walkway, you’ll find some small exhibits about the construction of the halls. In one, we can see a little diorama which depicts how the lumber was transported from the forests to the temple. In another scene, workers are fleeing an avalanche; some look like they’re not going to make it! The dioramas convey how some people had to risk their lives, so this temple could be created, and this exhibit pays homage to their sacrifice.

In another glass case, we can see an enormous, dark rope. It’s as thick as an oil drum and, shockingly, was created entirely from human hair. Female Buddhists would donate their hair to the temple to be turned into these strong ropes. This would help workers move the lumber into place and was one of the most important tools of the temple’s construction.

The Founder’s Hall Gate

Although multiple gates are used to access the temple grounds, the most impressive of all the gates is “The Founder’s Hall Gate.” The gate was built in 1911 and is over 92 feet tall. It is quite opulent and has two roofs, stacked one on top of the other. This creates a layered effect like on a pagoda.

Along the temple’s exterior runs a small moat filled with lily pads and lotus, flanked by rows of Japanese black pines. The green trees set against the beige structures against a blue sea sky are one of the best colour combinations out there!

Kyosendo

After touring the temple, we head away from the tourists and into the real backstreets of Kyoto. Head to Kyosendo, where craftsmen and women keep old traditions alive. In this shop, artists create and assemble Japanese fans in the same manner as they have been made for hundreds of years.

History of Japanese Fans

The first appearance of fans in Japan was in the early 6th century, brought over from China, although these fans did not fold but were completely flat. They were also very large and needed to be operated by a servant since they were too big to hold in your hand.

Legend has it that the Japanese folding fan was invented when a craftsman serving the emperor saw a bat and was inspired by the design of its wings. The fact that the fan could fold made it easier to hold in your hand when not in use and could travel more effectively.

Varieties of Fans

There are three main varieties of Japanese fans; the feather, the folding fan and the brisé. Traditional Japanese fans are magnificently painted with images of pines, chrysanthemums, birds, plums, cherry blossoms and more! Every design contains a rush of symbols representing Japan or even hints at a theme important to the person for which the fan is being made.

For 250 years, Japan remained closed off from international trading, and when its doors were finally opened, its exports were highly sought-after items. Japanese fans began flooding the North American and European marketplaces, some of the most fashionable accessories. At this shop, you cannot only look at the artisans still making these fans but buy one to take home for yourself.

Tofu Shop

Opposite the fan shop, you’ll almost always hear a clamouring surrounding a glass refrigerator case. People come and go at all hours to buy fresh, locally-made tofu.

Inside the shop, there is a sweet fragrance that fills the air. Well-worn machines surround the outer walls of the shop, and women in aprons mull about pouring hot soy milk into plastic moulds. They sprinkled each square with magnesium chloride (which is the magic ingredient that turns soy milk into tofu.) Tofu is to Kyoto as pizza is to New York. Wide varieties are made all over Japan, but nowhere does it better than Kyoto.

History of Tofu in Japan

The tofu was first brought to Kyoto by Buddhist monks in the 6th century, who could not eat meat or dairy as an alternative protein. This tofu is extra creamy, and you can taste just how fresh it is. It’s almost like pudding! In addition to tofu, they also made little pastry-like buns from the leftover soy, which people from all over town come to purchase at lunchtime. Try one for yourself! A great treat that ensures nothing goes to waste.

Ayako Tenmangu Shrine

Continue down the streets until you come upon the Ayako Tenmangu Shrine. Sitting outside the shrine is a large stone sculpture of a bull. The bull is the symbol of health in Japan, and this shrine is dedicated to bringing health to your body and mind. The shrine is very popular during exam season when students come here to pray for academic success!

Walden Woods Kyoto

Fabric Stores

Along the backstreets of Kyoto, you’ll stumble upon almost every kind of shop! Some streets seemed completely residential, and suddenly, you’ll come across a high fashion kimono shop selling one-of-a-kind garments for Japanese weddings. These store hours are very sporadic, so I didn’t want to list anyone in particular, but weaving your way up to our next destination is a great way of discovering something for yourself!

Kimono shops, wedding kimono shops especially, are spectacular! The colours were stunning, and the amount of layering is almost impossible to imagine how these women managed to walk effortlessly and look graceful under all that weighty cloth. But fashion comes at a price!

Family Cemetery

Stop at this family-run shrine and cemetery located at the northern end of town. Here you can take a moment to learn about how the Japanese experience death.

About Japanese Cemeteries

In Japan, entire families are buried altogether. One giant stone displays their family name, and the wooden sticks surrounding it refer to the different family members who have passed; unlike in North America, where we don’t visit cemeteries all that often, it is very common in Japan to visit your family tombstone weekly. You would bring with you things your loved one cherished in life, like; beer, food or even sometimes something to read. Japanese families keep their loved ones close, even in death.

Ichihime Jinja

After a short rest or a beverage stop at one of the many street vending machines, head back out to find the Ichihime Jinja shrine. Ichihime Jinja is best known for its protection of women. All the gods worshipped here are female deities. The shrine was once even featured on a popular Japanese TV show, and ever since, women from all over the world have come here to receive the blessings of the maternal deities.

Omikuji

The Omikuji fortunes at this shrine are unique as they are stuffed inside cute, red wooden dolls in the shape of a lady. Each one has a different hand-painted face and holds within it a secret fortune. If you receive a negative fortune, tie it up on the wall with the other to ensure the bad omen doesn’t come to pass.

How to Pray

Towards the back area of the shrine is where you’ll find the haiden. This is where you pay your respects to the gods. First, drop a coin into the offering box. Next, you need to ring the bell. Ringing this bell is important in the prayer process as it lets the gods know you’re there. Ring the suzu bell, bow twice, clap your hands twice, and bow once more.

Ame-no-Mana-I Well

Besides the shrine, you’ll find the famous Ame-no-Mana-I well. This well was once used by royal families, and it is said that cleansing yourself in the springs of the well will result in your wish being granted.

Gojo Rakuen

Further along, find your way to the Gojo Rakuen area. This neighbourhood used to be the old red light, Geisha district. Although real geishas weren’t like prostitutes (they were more like companions and entertainers), various women of the night would dress like geisha and offer up their “services” to gain a particular type of clientele in this area. Brothels inside wooden teahouses were once the main establishment on these streets.

Fifth Street Paradise

Gojo Rakuen translates into “fifth street paradise.” That “paradise” refers to all the “pleasure” services once offered here. A strange feature could identify these houses of ill-repute. Unlike the red lights district in Amsterdam, where the houses were lit up with red lights to identify them as brothels, Japanese brothels were identifiable by having a fish tank outside their open door.

After becoming a seedy part of town, many branches of the Yakuza (the Japanese mafia) also moved into the area, making it an off-limits place for many Japanese people for years. Only now, after the Yakuza had been exiled from Kyoto, can people walk these streets without fear.

Takase River

Unlike European cities, where houses along the river bank are seen as some of the most desirable properties in the city, the houses along the riverbank in Kyoto are old, wooden townhomes. Some almost falling apart. They are humble houses that have yet to be swept up in the wave of urbanization.

Walking through these streets, many old tea houses and traditional restaurants remain. No trendy cafes or loud bars. These streets keep the vestiges of the old ways. Take a minute to stop along the bridge across the Takase River for a hydration break! It’s amazing in a city as famous as Kyoto, you can find such peace and quiet.VVVVVVVVVVV

Artists Studios

Due to the run-down nature of this area, and the low real estate prices, artists began to flock to this part of town. Here they could work on their craft; soon, these backstreets became a wash of artists and craftspeople. Walking, you might see people selling wares outside their front door. No official shop, just ceramics laid out in a box with an honour system for payment. I managed to poke my head into a small studio with open doors.

Inside, an old Japanese woman, surrounded by paint brushes and books, sat there painting the tiniest details onto a minuscule clay figurine. Japanse pottery is one of the oldest art forms in the country, and this woman was preserving its legacy. Surrounding her were hundreds of reference books, patterns, antique pottery and more.

Visiting Artists Workshops

Her face was so serious, but when she looked up, and I complimented her on her work, she smiled so wide – even after all these years, it still made her happy to see her work was appreciated. Hidden in the nooks and crannies of her studio were some of her pieces ready to be sent to high-end shops all over Kyoto.

Yamauchi Nintendo

Before heading across the bridge, we passed the former headquarters of Nintendo. This was their main location when Nintendo was just a Japanese playing card company established in 1889. Long before it had anything to do with Mario or Luigi. Inside this building was where Pokemon was first invented. The quiet street was very unassuming, and it was unbelievable that years later, Pokemon would become one of the most popular past times for kids worldwide.

Shomem-bashi Bridge

Crossing the Kamogawa river, we head over the Shomen-bashi bridge. This is a more modern bridge than the original one, which once stood here. It was built in 1952, but nonetheless, it keeps in line with the aesthetics of the area’s original architecture.

From the bridge, you can see both sides of Kyoto and the mountains in the background. On hot summer days, the riverbank is filled with tourists and locals relaxing alongside. On either part of the riverbank, balconies from restaurants and old townhouses overlooked the waters.

Kanshundo Higashimisea

Across the bridge, stop at Kanshundo Higashimise. This traditional candy shop has been in business for over 150 years. The sweet shop sells wagashi sweets made by skilled artisans who turn sugar into coin-sized delicate works of art in all magical shapes. These handmade treats always have seasonal touches. Since it was autumn when we were there, the chefs had different autumnal flavours added to the wagashi.

Wagashi

Take a seat at the back, where you can order a cup of green tea and a sample of one of their handmade desserts. The wagashi was made to perfectly complement the slightly bitter flavour of the green tea.
The ingredients for wagashi are fairly simple; it’s only sugar, rice flour, and some additional flavouring. But the decoration, shape and complex flavours make an otherwise simple treat into something fantastical. These treats are often served at tea ceremonies or special occasions.

Toyokuni Shrine

After a quick snack, head over to Toyokuni Shrine. Originally constructed in 1599, the shrine was built in memory of the great leader, Tokugawa Ieyasu. Tokugawa Ieyasu wanted to be treated like a god after his death and had his followers build this great shrine where people could worship his memory after his passing. But his popularity proved to be his demise, even after death. The next ruler, Toyokuni, was jealous of the dead leader’s reputation and had the shrine destroyed. The new leader had a new shine built in his honour on the same spot. Just to spite the old ruler.

Karamon Gate

The karamon gate you walk through to enter the shrine is rumoured to have been moved from the historic Fushimi Castle. This gate is one of Japan’s most iconic karamon gates, and people travel from all over to view its striking architectural design. Despite being over 400 years old, much of the gold leaf decorating the outside of the gate is from the original structure. The gate has been so lovingly cared for; therefore, even the oldest details were well preserved.

The gate was built in the Momoyama period when Japanese architecture broke away from many aspects of Chinese architecture to create its own style. Carved onto the gate are images of cranes made by Hidari Jingoro, one of the most famous carvers of the 16th century. The cranes all possess no eyes because, as the legend goes, if they had eyes, they would simply fly away and not stand and protect the temple.

Toyotomi Hideyoshi

Entombed inside the shrine is Toyotomi Hideyoshi himself, and many people visit the shrine simply to pray near his tomb. They hope their prayers will transfer some of his power to them.

Toyotomi’s family crest is a cluster of gourds. Today, you can purchase an ema in the shape of a gourd. Emas are wooden prayer plaques where worshippers can write their prayers or wishes. Another popular item the shrine is known for is its amulets called “Samuhara,” which are said to ward off misfortunes.

Hoko-ji Temple

Adjacent to the shrine is an ageing temple containing an enormous bell. These are the remnants of the ancient Hoko-ji Temple. Hoko-ji Temple was once one of the greatest temples in Japan, but after many wars, earthquakes and fires, all that remains is the giant bell. This part is hidden off to the side of the temple, sitting in the middle of a run-down parking lot. But it is absolutely worth your time to come and see it!

This prayer bell is the largest in Japan. It is 4.2 meters high and weighs a whopping 82 tonnes!

If you crane your head over the barrier, you can see restored engravings and paintings that decorate the ceiling of the bell’s roof.

Not many people visit this temple, as it’s not one of the most notable. But as such, it was such a peaceful place to contemplate life and end our tour of the backstreets of Kyoto.

I hope you enjoyed this backstreets tour. Finding hidden treasures along the way is my favourite part of travel, so don’t hesitate the share your favourite unknown aspects of this incredible, historical city!

Happy Travel Adventurers!

The post Exploring the Hidden Secrets of Kyoto, an Alternative Walking Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Mexico City 7-day Itinerary

1. Where to Stay
   • Chaya B&B Boutique $
   • AR218 – $$
   • Ignacia $$$
2. Day One – Take it Easy
   • Adjust to the Altitude
   • La Condesa
   • Parque México
   • Stop for a Churro
   • Dinner in La Condesa
3. Day Two – Explore the Historic City Centre
   • Pastelería Ideal
   • Zócalo
   • Cathedral of the Assumption
   • National Palace
   • The History of Mexico
   • Azul Historico
   • Torre Tower
   • Palacio de Bellas Artes
   • Diego Rivera Mural Museum
   • National Post Office
   • Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela
   • Roma Norte Dinner
4. Day Three – Chapultepec Park
   • Bosque de Chapultepec
   • Chapultepec Castle
   • Street Food
   • National Museum of Anthropology
   • El Lago de Chapultepec
   • Dinner in Polanco
5. Day Four – Frida Khalo's Coyoacán
   • Café Avellaneda
   • Iglesia De Coyoacan
   • Centenario Garden and Hidalgo Garden
   • Cafe El Jarocho
   • Mercado de Coyoacán
   • Casa Azul – Frida Kahlo Museum
   • Parque Santa Catarina
   • Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
   • Mesón Antigua
   • Go to a Lucha Libra Show
6. Day Five – The Old City of Teotihuacan
   • Pyramids
   • La Gruta
7. Day Six – Xochimilco
   • Mercado Xochimilco
   • Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas
   • Trajineras
   • Food
   • Entertainment along the Canal
8. Day Seven – Back Home

Where to Stay

Chaya B&B Boutique $

Located in the heart of Mexico City, facing the Alameda Park, Chaya Bed an Breakfast is tucked away inside a recently renovated building which provides travellers a budget-friendly hotel experience with public spaces throughout where you can meet other guests, enjoy the rooftop views across Mexico city or just relax on the hammocks after one of the many incredible meals you’ll have in this city. Prices are listed as $145 for the standard room, but I’ve found that on sites like booking.com or Expedia they are often on offer for as low as $91/night!

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AR218 – $$

AR218 is located in my favourite neighbourhood, La Condesa, inside an old 1930’s bungalow which still is decorated with the original talavera floorings while the rest of the hotel has been given a modern update with sleek urban designs. Every room is spacious and contains luxurious amenities that include state-of-the-art technology, cosy and comfy living rooms which make relaxing back at the hotel a joy. If you like to cook some meals they even have fully equipped kitchenettes for your convenience. AR218 is a full-service hotel and offers free bike rentals as well as a slew of technological devices great for travellers like extra battery packs and charging cords. Prices online range but I’ve found rooms for as little as $150 a night.

Ignacia $$$

Ignacia Guest House is technically located in Roma Norte but is just on the edge of the Southern borders. Under the purple blossoms of the Jacaranda tree lining the streets, you will be welcomed home. The house was originally an old 20th-century mansion that has been transformed into just six elegant suites. Since there are so few rooms, everyone who stays here feels like family.

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Day One – Take it Easy

Adjust to the Altitude

Mexico City is located 7,200 feet (2,200 metres) above sea level! So you’ll find it’s worth giving yourself some time to adjust to the altitude when you arrive. Even if you are lucky enough not to experience any of the severe side effects, most travellers will feel a little more tired than usual. Or you might have to exert more effort than you might be used to when walking. The best way to fight the altitude is to drink lots and lots of water. And maybe avoid those cocktails for the first night.

La Condesa

After dropping your bags off at your hotels, I would recommend a leisurely walk around La Condesa. La Condesa is a very tourist-friendly neighbourhood which makes it a relaxing place to explore just when you arrive.

La Condesa is famous for its tree-lined avenues with wide pedestrian sideways located in the centre of the road. Along the streets, you’ll see art nouveau mansions and art deco-inspired apartment buildings. “Condesa” means “countess” as it was named for the Countess of Miravalle. The Countess once owned all the land in this area. Wander along Amsterdam Avenue, which is a circular loop that wraps around one of the city’s best parks. On either side of the street, you’ll find incredible coffee shops and fantastic eateries. Stop into any that catches your eye to fuel up! In this area the food and drinks are so good you really can’t go wrong.

Parque México

Make your way to Parque México. If you arrived on the weekend, you’ll find that this park is filled to the brim with families and their dogs. Parque México has one of the largest dog parks and public spaces in the city. And it is absolutely vibrating with energy on the weekend. Dozens of street vendors line the outskirts of the parks where you’ll be able to try a myriad of different local street food. My personal favourite are the fresh slices of mango, topped with lime and chilli! Spicy and sweet, the perfect combination.

Stop for a Churro

Stop off for a churro and hot chocolate at Churrería El Moro on the corner of the park. This churro cafe has a few locations around Mexico City and is a reliable place for fresh, delicious churros. Be sure to get the Mexican hot chocolate to dip your churros into as you eat as is the custom.

Dinner in La Condesa

To end your night in La Condesa, grab a bite to eat. As it’s our first day in town, let’s just do something quick and easy and save those luxurious dinners for later in the week. And honestly, I’m sure everyone is dying to eat what they really came to Mexico City for; TACOS! El Tizoncito is known for its incredible tacos, Al Pastor. Despite being a chain, it is my favourite place to eat tacos in Condesa. Fast, cheap and friendly! Plus, their salsas are an excellent way to enhance the flavour! 

If you want to try a bunch of different types of tacos in a very unintimidating place, head over to El Farolito Altata or Taquería El Califa. These are both fast-food-like restaurants with great menus with almost every kind of taco you can think of. While there might be better versions of these tacos in street stands all over the city, this is a great place to try them and see what you like. Then, once you’re a little more settled, you can try the street food tacos!

Day Two – Explore the Historic City Centre

After a leisurely first day, it’s time to hit the streets. The Historic Centre of Mexico City is one of the busiest areas of the city. I’d recommend heading to the centre early in the morning. This will result in seeing fewer tourists out and about when you first arrive to get your bearings. By the afternoon you’ll see how much more crowded it gets!

Pastelería Ideal

Start your morning at Pastelería Ideal. This bakery has been serving flaky pastries and sweet cakes for over 100 years! The morning rush in here is hectic but the bustling atmosphere is absolutely infectious! Huge carts and trays full of sugared treats rush up and down the aisles. The smell of sugar and bread fills the air as soon as you walk in the door.

Take a tray and pick a few of the best-looking sweets. Then head over to one of the counters. While they pack up your treats, they’ll pass you your receipt. You have to pay at another counter. Once you’ve paid you can show your paid stamp to the same people who packed your order and you’ll be ready to go. Seems complicated but honestly I kinda love the process as it feels so retro. Take your sweets with you and head to the Zócalo to enjoy breakfast with a view!

Zócalo

The Zócalo is the main square in Mexico City. Before the Spanish invasion, this was the site of important ceremonies for the Aztec people of Tenochtitlan. Still today you’ll find lots of ceremonies happening in the square. Everything from wearing in of viceroys, royal proclamations, military parades, Independence services and festivals like Day of the Dead can be found here in the square.

The Zocalo is dominated by the enormous flag of Mexico City. The Mexican flag is full of national symbolism. The green stripe represents the Independence Movement. The white stripe represents the purity of the Catholic faith. The red stripe represents the Spaniards that joined in the quest for Independence and the blood of the national heroes. The emblem-shield symbolizes the Aztec heritage. According to legend, the gods had advised the Aztecs that the place where they should establish their city was to be identified when they saw an eagle, perched on a prickly pear tree, devouring a serpent. They saw this mythical eagle on a marshy lake that is now the main plaza in Mexico City.

Cathedral of the Assumption

Across from the Zócalo is the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary into Heavens. After the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire, the Spaniards build their church on the site of the Templo Mayor. The Templo Mayor was the gem of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan. Stones from the destroyed temple of the Aztec were used to build the church. And while we mourn the destruction of the old temple, it is amazing to stare up at the church and see stones from over 1000 years ago.

The construction of the Cathedral began in 1573 and took until 1813 to complete! The enormous cathedral is over 350 feet long and 200 feet wide. This makes it Latin America’s largest and oldest cathedral.

Its enormous size means the Cathedral has four distinct facades. Each facade more elaborately embellished than the next. The church is a patchwork quilt of different styles of architecture and decorations, including Renaissance, Baroque, and Neoclassic. Although the 215-foot bell tower, containing 25 bells, is proudly done up in a Mexican style of architecture.

National Palace

Head down the street towards the entrance to the National Palace. This place is an enormous museum and art gallery featuring many famous works of art. It’s free to enter, you just need to leave a piece of ID at the gate. And don’t worry, they keep it safe and you’ll get this back when you leave. Because it is free to entre, I would recommend keeping things short, and picking one part of the museum to explore. My recommendation would be the series of murals by Diego Rivera inside the main courtyard. Seeing everything can be pretty overwhelming and I always feel like a shorter visit makes the information more digestable.

The History of Mexico

The murals which encompass the courtyard are called ‘The History of Mexico‘ painted on the main stairwell. Diego Rivera began painting it in 1929 and took over six years to complete. The subject of the mural is Mexico’s history from ancient times to the present day. From north to south the mural depicts the struggles of the indigenous Mexican people against foreign invaders and local dictators.

My favourite aspect of the mural are the depictions of the Aztec people and their rich culture. You can see every day Aztecs at work and play. See images of their icons of worship as well as images of their traditional dress. On the south wall, you’ll see an image of a woman holding the communist manifesto. This is Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera’s wife. Although at the time Frida was only the woman behind Rivera, she would go on to be even more famous than Diego himself. More on her later!

Azul Historico

After finishing at the museum, wander down the long pedestrian avenue Francisco I. Madero. This street is filled with incredible old historical buildings. If you’re looking for something to eat head to one of the city’s most sought-after restaurants, Azul Historico. This restaurant features an indoor-outdoor courtyard where you’ll eat under a tree canopy. The restaurant serves up traditional Mexican cuisine with its own unique flair. One of the most popular dishes is the guacamole with fried crickets, absolutely delicious and a must-try!

Torre Tower

To cap off your lunch, head to the Torre Tower for a view over Mexico City. The tower requires admission for the viewing deck but it’s free to access if head up to the restaurant or bar. If you get a drink at the bar or snack at the restaurant you’ll be able one of the best views in the city! It might be a little pricier than other places in Mexico City, but think of it as a viewing tax.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

After looking at it from above, head down to see the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts events in music, dance, theatre, opera and literature. Therefore it was aptly nick-named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico“. The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical and Art Nouveau and the interior is primarily Art Deco. If the line up isn’t too long, head inside to see the iconic murals by Diego Rivera as well as other famous Mexican artists.

Diego Rivera Mural Museum

If the line up is really long you can always opt to go the Diego Rivera Mural Museum down the road instead. This museum houses one of Diego Rivera’s most famous painting, Dream of a Sunday afternoon in the Alameda.

National Post Office

Across from the Belle Arts building is the National Post Office. While it might seem strange to visit a post office, this one is truly spectacular. The Postal Palace of Mexico City was designed at a time when the post office became a separate government entity. They wanted to show off their power and designed a building with a very eclectic style for the time.

It blends Art Nouveau, Spanish Renaissance Revival, Plateresque, Spanish Rococo style, Elizabethan Gothic, Elizabethan Plateresque and Venetian Gothic Revival all together. And while trying to blend that all together would result in a mess, it is anything but. This building is so iconic to Mexico’s architectural style that it inspired the design for the Department of Family Reunions in the Pixar film, Coco.

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Spend the rest of the afternoon shopping at the nearby Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela. This is the best market to shop for handicrafts and souvenirs. The market looks like a veritable rainbow and even if you walk away with nothing (which I doubt you will) it’s still an incredible place to explore and enjoy. I have an entire post of the best items to buy when you’re visiting if you want to make a checklist! Trust me, this is super handy since it’s so easy to get lost or carried away in this place.

Roma Norte Dinner

Make your way to Roma Norte for dinner. Colonia Roma, as it is also known, was established as an upper-class neighbourhood in the 1900s. At the time, Mexico City wasn’t as large as it is today, and this neighbourhood was considered the newest suburbs of the capital. The design of this European-inspired neighbourhood was meant to appeal to the noble aristocrats. Since the area was badly damaged in the huge earthquake of 1985, many of the buildings were not subjected to modernization. Today it remains as a vestige of another time from Mexico City’s history. Today, Roma is the epicentre of hipster culture in the city with streets lined with restaurants, bars, clubs, shops, cultural centres, and galleries. This is where you can find some of the best sit-down restaurants in the city.

For a gorgeous meal in a modern setting check out Rosetta. Reservations are recommended well in advance for a spot at this hot-spot. For something more laid back and experimental check out the Mercado Roma. This spot is designed to feel like an upscale market. Here you’ll find a series of different vendors spread out so you can try a sampling of different dishes.

After dinner, head to the stylish Gin Gin bar for a few drinks to cap off the night. Not only is the bar incredible chic, I love gin and this is the place to go for some amazing gin cocktails.

Day Three – Chapultepec Park

Bosque de Chapultepec

After a busy day in the historic district, it’s time to slow down and relax in Chapultepec Park. Chapultepec or “Bosque de Chapultepec” is one of the largest city parks in the Western Hemisphere. The entire park is over 1,600 acres! A city this dense and populated needs fresh air and this park act as its lungs. The vast forest of trees replenish fresh air throughout the Valley of Mexico. The name Chapultepec stems from the Nahuatl word chapoltepēc which means “at the grasshopper’s hill”.

Chapultepec Castle

Start your day at Chapultepec Castle. Chapultepec Castle is the ONLY true royal castle in the Americas, as it was actually the residence of the viceroys when the country was ruled by Spain. It was built in 1785 as a summer house for the royals. Not only is this castle a marvel of Mexican-Spanish architecture and interior design, but the view from the terrace over the park and the city are unrivalled.

You can spend hours wandering this home and discovering secrets around every corner. My favourite part is all the incredible stained glass filtering in that beautiful morning sunlight.

Street Food

After finishing up at the castle, walk back the hill towards Avenue H. Colegio Militar. This road will weave its way through the forest towards the best lookout point across Chapultepec Lake. This avenue is absolutely packed with street vendors! Although there is a larger “food court” beside the lake, I would avoid this area. Perhaps since they have more permanent booths, the food can be left inside and therefore isn’t of the highest quality. But the food vendors that flank the roadways are really delicious. So stick with them! These might not be as filling as the meals on offer in the food court area, but you’re better off with a safe bet.

Below are a few of my favourite street snacks so you can keep your eyes out for these reliably delicious traditional treats.

• Chicharron: deep-fried pigskin doused in chilli sauce and freshly squeezed lime juice. Duritos: Duritos (not to be mixed up with Doritos) are a wheat-based pinwheel-shaped snack topped with hot sauce and lime.
• Dorilocos: If you’re looking for something more like a meal, find your way to the Dorilocos vendor. This dish is made by taking a bag of Doritos and slicing it down the long edge, so it opens like a bowl. Then they top it with Mexican radish, shredded cucumber and carrot and Japanese peanuts. Then, of course, it’s topped with lime juice and hot sauce on top. 
• Papas: freshly made potato chips served with hot sauce and lime.

National Museum of Anthropology

After lunch head over the National Museum of Anthropology. This museum contains archaeological and anthropological artifacts from Mexico’s pre-Columbian heritage. It’s is perhaps one of the most powerful and interesting museums I’ve seen. The enormous artifacts from the Aztecs cultures, as well as lesser-known indigenous cultures like the Toltec, Mixtec, Zapotec, and Olmec are larger than life and command your attention. If you don’t know much about the pre-hispanic history of Mexico, this is a wonderful place to start learning.

El Lago de Chapultepec

Finish your day in the park with a padel around El Lago de Chapultepec. This man-made lake is one of the most picturesque places to take a little blue paddle boat and take in the scenery. The views from the middle of the lake are fantastic and even look out at the Colonia Polanco. The boats cost 60-100 pesos/hour (around the U.S. $3). Normally, such a touristy activity would price gouge visitors but not here in the park. The locals enjoy a ride as much as the tourists, so prices are kept low to ensure everyone can enjoy a day out!

Dinner in Polanco

For dinner, let’s head just north of the park to the fanciest neighbourhood in Mexico City; Polanco. Polanco is known for its upscale boutiques and luxury stores. But it also had great food hidden amongst the otherwise ubiquitous shops. If you want to go all out, make reservations at the famous Pujol restaurants. As of 2022, Pujol stands at #9 on the list of the world’s best restaurants! Reservations book up months and months in advance so be sure to get yours as soon as you can. But if you find there are no spots lefts, keep checking as sometimes people make cancellations and something will pop up out of the blue.

If you can’t snag a reservation at Pujol or don’t wanna spend that kind of cash there are lots of other options. One of my faves is El Turix, a little hole in the wall that sells Cochinita Pibil in a multitude of ways. My pick is always the taco but the torta and tamale are also great choices! Cochinita Pibil is best known as a dish from the Yucatec Mayan peninsula and this is the best place to try it outside of the Yucatan!

Day Four – Frida Khalo’s Coyoacán

Coyoacán is one of the most vibrant neighbourhoods, just south of the centre of town. The name comes from the Nahuatl word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today, Coyoacán is most notable for its amazing marketplace, brightly coloured yet quiet streets and gorgeous greenery. But most importantly, it’s where you’ll find the Casa Azul; Frida Khalo‘s home which has been preserved as a museum.

Café Avellaneda

Because this sleepy village doesn’t rise early in the morning, head over to Café Avellaneda for a late brunch. This small but charmingly decorated cafe serves up some inventive, and cosy meals. Give the Chilaquiles Verdes a try or opt for the waffles covered in their selection of seasonal fruit! Great way to try some of the best produce from the marketplace!

Iglesia De Coyoacan

After filling your belly with food, head over to the Iglesia De Coyoacan. The first church was built here in 1577. The site was given to the Franciscan parish by Hernan Cortes, a Spanish Conquistador who led an expedition that caused the fall of the Aztec Empire. Over the years the church has changed appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors.

The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. This is so that when you enter the church there is a huge juxtaposition to what you find walking through the large wooden doors. The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations, mindblowing ceiling frescos of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet at the same time very intimate. When we visited there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work.

Centenario Garden and Hidalgo Garden

Outside of the church spend some time wandering the two adjoining parks; Centenario Garden and Hidalgo Garden. In the middle of these gardens is a large canopied rotunda where on the weekend you’ll often hear music being played.

Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloons and toy vendors decorate the surroundings. In the centre of the park is a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes. In reference to the original meaning of the borough’s name.

Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick me up on your way to the market, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacan for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s famous for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

Mercado de Coyoacán

Next, you’ll finally arrive at the golden yellow facade of the Mercado de Coyoacán. The interior of this busy market is tightly packed with spices, toys, fruits and vegetables and wonderfully smelling flowers. But the main reason for visiting this market is for their famous tostadas! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want. The ceviche tostadas with a thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity of the fish are absolute perfection!

Casa Azul – Frida Kahlo Museum

But what most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as The Frida Kahlo Museum. This was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo and her husband Diego Rivera lived. Frida herself grew up in this family home when her parents owned it. She would later return here to seek refuge from her pain and from the public. Frida is one of the most influential surrealist artists. Her work was inspired by her life, the natural environment and many elements from her Mexican hertiage.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art, pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps. This is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

Parque Santa Catarina

As you head towards where you’ll have dinner, stop off in the Parque Santa Catarina. This lovely parkette is dominated by the marigold painted church of Santa Catarina. The square is often a site for party and, and there is usually a remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. In this public centre, you’ll see people writing an essay, practising dance, earning music, having meetings and more!

Mesón Antigua

Across from the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles is the Mesón Antigua. This cosy and welcoming restaurant serves up traditional Mexican food in a charming environment. It’s a great place to try some traditionally made mole and while away the evening on the terrace, watching locals on their way home from work and lovers meeting the park. People watching at its finest.

Go to a Lucha Libra Show

If you feel up for some evening entertainment I would highly recommend going to a Lucha Libre show! Lucha Libre is basically Mexican Wrestling and even if you aren’t even the slightest bit of a wrestling or sports fan, going to these shows is soooo much fun. We’ve gone both with a tour group and on our ownand its a blast either way. Going on your own is much cheaper, as tickets are only about $25 USD but going with the group is a wonderful experience for first-timers. They teach you all about the history of the sport and why it has become such an important part of the Mexican identity. Everywhere you go in Mexico City you’ll see Lucha masks for sale and everything from t-shirt to magnet with famous wrestlers on them so it’s good to find out for yourself what this is all about.

Day Five – The Old City of Teotihuacan

Teotihuacan is one of those places you hear about, and everyone tells you to visit. I was a bit on the fence when I first heard about it, the pictures never really do a place that vast justice, and I didn’t know what to expect. But after going I can tell you, it is indeed a must see part of Mexico and somewhere which taught me a lot about the culture and the history of this country. Teotihuacan is an ancient Mesoamerican city where over 125,000 people once lived in around 100 BCE! At the time it was one of the largest cities in the entire world. Teotihuacan’s pyramids are its most famous site. The Temple of Quetzalcoatl and the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon were laid out in a geometric and symbolic plan which mirrored the stars.

Pyramids

Climbing up the Pyramid of the Sun is a challenge, especially on a hot day, so arriving early is key! Not only did we find the pyramids were way less crowded than later on in the day, but it was the perfect temperature. The Pyramid of the Sun is 140-feet (43-meters) high with a base measuring 426 by 511 feet (130 by 156 meters). Its the largest of the pyramids and gives you the best view from atop of the surrounding landscape and other ancient structures.

In addition to seeing the pyramids, you’ll also have the chance to explore the multi-family residential compounds, the Avenue of the Dead and the amazingly vibrant murals which reflect how bright and colourful all these structures once were. These incredible pieces of history have been incredibly well-preserved after all this time and looking at them you are blown away by the seemingly modern designs they were making thousands of years ago.

There are multiple ways to get to Teotihuacan. The most popular method is by guided tour. This was the option we chose and ended up booking a semi-private tour through Airbnb experience. You can also opt to take public transit or even schedule an Uber driver to take you to the site which is about 1 hour and 20 minutes outside the city depending on your location.

La Gruta

If you’re looking for a seat with a view, there is no other option for lunch other than ‘La Gruta’. This restaurant is located inside a prehistoric cave, just a few steps away from the Teotihuacan Pyramids. Here you will get the chance to taste delicious dishes that mix local ingredients with pre-Hispanic recipes. You also get to enjoy traditional Mexican folk dance shows while dining. Seats often book quickly, so reservations are recommended.

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There are a few smaller museums around the Pyramid sites, but I would recommend spending more time exploring the actual pyramids themselves and the areas around them. It’s incredible how much you’re allowed to climb on and venture into, and there is always something new to discover for yourself.

Day Six – Xochimilco

Xochimilco is the Venice of Mexico. It’s an enormous network of canals that spread across this southern district of Mexico City. Xochimilco means “Floating Gardens” as the Aztecs created chinampas which were artificial agricultural plots rich in minerals and there they would plant thousands of flower fields. Today, Xochimilco is UNESCO World Heritage Site as it preserves this Aztecs technology. The main pier I would advise boarding your boat from is located about 45 minutes outside the centre of town but is well, well worth the effort to get there. I have an entire guide on Xochimilco so if you want to know all the tips and tricks for visiting definitely check that out as this is just a brief overview!

Mercado Xochimilco

You’re allowed to bring whatever food and drinks you want onto the boat but if you have time to stop, check out the Mercado Xochimilco before arriving at the pier. You can load up with fresh sweet and savoury treats to enjoy on your journey!

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Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas

Be sure to arrive at the ‘Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas’. There are multiple embarcaderos, or ‘piers’, which service the canals but the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas is the official pier to catch your boat and where you’ll find the most honest pricing.

Trajineras

The boats which run up and down the river are called ‘Trajineras’. The maximum rate set by the city is 500 pesos per hour, per boat (not per person as some tricky boatmen might quote you). You can try and haggle your way down but unless you have a good grasp on Spanish haggling, you’ll find it pretty difficult to get the rides any cheaper than 400-450 pesos per hour. It’s up to you how long you want to be on the canals but I would honestly say I wish we’d gone out for longer! Plus, the longer you go, the better chance you’ll have of striking a deal!

Food

One of the most enjoyable parts of the experience is the food. Food is available throughout the canals as you travel. Vendors with roasted corn, coconut water, fresh tacos, cold beer and spicy micheladas float up and down the canals. The prices are more than you’d pay in the market but you pay for the privilege of having them coming right to your boat!

Entertainment along the Canal

As soon as you set off into the canals, the sound of musicians playing across the waters can immediately be heard. Mariachi bands floating on their own individual boats float down the river. As they pass you by they’ll offer to board your boat and play a song or two or really as many as you want!

Songs cost about 150 pesos per number but are cheaper the more songs you want. In addition to the mariachi bands, you’ll also see various smaller boats with only 2 to 3 people playing the xylophones as they float down the canal.

Day Seven – Back Home

Since it’s your last day, it’s best to take it easy. Most flights out of Mexico City require you to be at the airport at least 3 hours early. And you have to remember traffic to the airport can add in some travel time to that as well. So best not to plan too many activities. Instead of a big activity, I would head down to Lalo! for a delicious, laid-back brunch in the Roma Norte neighbourhood.

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If you have any time left, I would recommend wandering through any park that’s close by. Parks in Mexico City are truly spectacular places. They have a certain kind of magic that you just want to soak up before leaving. Grab some street treats and take a seat on a bench to marvel at the light coming through the trees. Watch the smiling people milling about with their adorable dogs and get ready to miss everything you’ve come to love about this city.

While seven days might not be nearly enough time to see everything there is to see in Mexico City, it certainly is a great start. And trust me, after one visit, you’ll be planning your next trip as soon as you return home!

The post The Ultimate Mexico City 7-Day Itinerary to See the Sights and Soak up the Culture [UPDATED 2022] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. DIY Tour
3. How to get to Cascais
4. By car
5. by Train
6. Getting Around in Cascais
7. Car
8. Walking & Bike Rental
9. Tourist Bus (a word of caution)
10. Public Bus
11. Uber
12. What time of year to go?
13. Self Guided Tour
14. Stop #3: Boca do Inferno
15. Stop#12: Rue Frederico Arouca

History

Cascais, pronounced “cash-ky”, is a word developed from the Portuguese “cascas” which means “shells” since the town was located so close to the waters where thousands of shells would wash ashore. The town’s proximity to the seas made it a hub for fishing and the money it brought in from those exports gained it the privilege of self-government in 1370 as decreed by King Fernando. Cascais rose to prominence with the title, and it became the first place Portuguese navigators would see when they returned from voyages around the world.

Lighthouses, military operations and forts were all built to support the town as a great lookout point for the country’s capital, Lisbon. Over the years, as the naval wars began to dwindle, its use as defensive maritime fortresses waned. But it’s elegant architecture, and charming city structure meant that people continued to flock to its shores and it was transformed into a luxury beach town for the aristocracy of Portugal. Years later, Cascais is most famous as being the writing haunt of famed author Ian Fleming, who wrote the classic James Bond novels in a hotel in Cascais. He had visited the town when he fought in World War II and came back here to write after the war was over. Many of the seaside settings throughout his novels all have some inspiration drawn from his experiences in Cascais.

DIY Tour

When we were planning our trip to Cascais and Cabo da Roca, we couldn’t understand why we couldn’t find much information online about a do-it-yourself tour. A lot of people visit Cascais and Cabo da Roca as a part of a day trip, sometimes also paired with a visit to Sintra. After visiting both Sintra and Cascais (along with Cabo da Roca) I genuinely do not know how they do it all in one short day. I suppose it’s more of a drive by viewing rather than a chance to really explore and understand each one of these incredible places. There is simply too much to see!

I think with this guide you can easily explore the wonders of Cascais and Cabo da Roca on at your own pace and save a ton of money too. It might require a little extra planning and effort on your part but if you’re up for it than I think it will pay you back in dividends.

How to get to Cascais

By car

If you have a vehicle getting to Cascais is a breeze, it’s just 35 minutes outside the centre of Lisbon. Parking can be found easily across Cascais and the surrounding countryside. On very busy days parking can be tough at the beach but there is usually places to park along the roadside where you can then walk over to the beach. Be sure to have coins for the tolls.

by Train

If you don’t have a car, not to fear. There is a train which leaves from Cais do Sodré station in Lisbon which services Cascais in just under an hour. The train journey costs just 2.20€. Be sure to have your metro zapping card with you since it makes jumping on and off the train easier than buying individual tickets.

Getting Around in Cascais

Car

If you have a rental car you can just drive from point to point from each of the destinations listed in this guide. Of all the methods of transports it’s the least complicated but does require the investment of the rental car. If you haven’t already rented one for the rest of your trip I don’t advise that you need to rent one just for this day-trip, it’s easily manageable without.

Walking & Bike Rental

The town of Cascais is relatively small, so walking around the sites in town is super easy on foot. If you just want to explore the beaches along the coast, there are bike rentals all over the place and bike paths too which makes getting to and from those areas a breeze! You can walk to most of the beaches but renting a bike is just that much more fun! While biking or hiking all the way up to the furthest point on our tour isn’t for the faint of heart it would be an absolutely beautiful hike/bike for those who are up for the challenge.

Tourist Bus (a word of caution)

To get out to all the destinations in this guide without a car, you’ll need to take the Scotturb buses. We opted for the tourist hop-on-hop-off bus, but honestly, we weren’t that impressed. When I got home I saw just how abysmal the reviews were and with good reason. When we told the driver we wanted to get off at Praia do Guincho, he seemed shocked that we actually wanted to “hop off” on a hop-on-hop-off bus! And even after asking he didn’t remember to stop. I ran up to the front and reminded him and only then did he, grumpily may I add, pull over and let us out. Our experiences certainly don’t look out of the norm based on the 1-star rating, and I’m surprised they still have this service up and running.

Advice on the Bus

If you have the money to spend and don’t mind waiting on late drivers and being firm about telling them where you want to get off and making sure they do indeed stop, then go ahead with the sightseeing bus but just be sure to read the reviews before you do! The upside to this bus is that you can “easily” get to all the destinations without having to figure out the public bus routes. Hopefully they’ll be improving this service, let me know if you decide to venture out on it and how your experience rates. The sightseeing Cascais buses run every 45 minutes from around 10 am to 5 pm but be sure to get the updated schedule from the main loading dock at the Cascais train terminal. A ticket costs €20 (€10 children under 12) + 0.50 card, and is valid for 24 hours.

Public Bus

The public transport system to and from different destinations in Cascais is a bit complicated. I understand how they get tourists suckered into only using the “sightseeing buses”. That being said, you can absolutely do this tour using the local buses. I’ve made sure to mark all the stops down on the map at the bottom of the post. I’ve also detailed each step out for you in this guide since most people are likely using public transport to get around. Fares on the bus cost €1.15 per journey and you’ll only need to ride them 4 times so the savings compared to the sightseeing bus are very significant. The three bus routes you’ll need are the 403, 414, and 415. (I’ve linked each of their schedules here as well as within the post.)

Uber

Another option is taking Ubers to and from each location. Depending on how many people you’re with, you could actually save some money here compared to the sightseeing bus. Uber’s cost around €12-17 from Cascais to Cabo da Roca. €9-13 from Cabo da Roca to Guincho Beach. And €5-8 from Guincho Beach to Boca de Inferno. The highest estimated cost is €38, which is actually cheaper than two people taking the tourist bus! The only risk you might consider is that there wouldn’t be any Ubers driving around that day. If so, you can easily find the nearest public transport option and hop on that.

What time of year to go?

The cooler weather during the winter and late fall makes Cascais a little less appealing to visit. Lying out on the hot sand and soaking in the surf and the sun is all part of the coastal experience. But if you do choose to visit during “off-season” you’ll be rewarded with less crowded attractions. The buses run on a slightly modified schedule during the winter so be aware of that as well if you choose to come down in the winter.

Spring and early summer are the best times to visit. Even on a hot day, the winds off the water, bring the temperature down a lot compared to in the city. And if you’re too hot, you can always just jump into the water to cool down! Try your best to come during the week since the weekends and holidays mean the beaches are packed.

Self Guided Tour

Stop #1: Cabo da Roca

After arriving at the Cascais train station, the first stop on your journey should be Cabo da Roca. Cabo da Roca is the furthest point on our tour from the Cascais terminal. It’s good to get it done first thing in the morning as it’s also the most popular sight on tour. Around midday, it can get extremely crowded so early mornings really pay off. I’d recommend leaving Lisbon just after 8 am to arrive in Cascais bright and early. Grab a few pastries and a cup of coffee for the train ride and enjoy the scenery as you go!

If you’re driving, you can simply head up the road and leave your car in the National Park’s parking lot. For the bus, catch #403 from the Cascais bus terminal. If you choose to take the sightseeing tourist bus, you can catch this outside of Cascais Train station as well. Either way, you go, you should reach the peaks of Cabo da Roca in around 20-30 minutes depending on traffic.

The ride up to Cabo da Roca was actually one of my favourite parts of the trip. It seemed as we climbed up the cliffside, the environment around us kept changing. At one point we were driving along coastal beaches and sand dunes, in another minute we were surrounded by lush rainforest-like trees, and finally, after coming through the forest, we reached the top of the mountains, and there seemed to be nothing but rocks, cliffs,green grass and a never ending expanse of ocean.

TIP: Even on warm days Cabo da Roca is exceptionally windy, and it’s higher altitude makes it pretty chilly! Be sure to bring a sweater or jacket with you.

Cabo da Roca

Arriving at Cabo da Roca, you’ll first notice the red-topped lighthouse and terracotta roofs of the building of the National Park office. But the real draw of Cabo da Roca doesn’t open itself up to you until you step off the bus or car, and walk down to the cliff’s edge. And then wow! What a sight! Cabo da Roca is famously the westernmost point of mainland Europe.

Looking out across cliffs you’ll see nothing but a vast expanse of sparkling blue waters belonging to the Atlantic Ocean. To the left, you’ll have the most spectacular view of the Serra de Sintra coastline as well. While Cabo da Roca is now a big tourist attraction, in the 17th century it’s purpose was mainly defensive. From this vantage point, guards could see any incoming ships which would be approaching Lisbon’s harbour. A considerable advantage in their maritime strategy, especially during the Peninsular Wars.

Lighthouse

The iconic lighthouse which sits on the top of the cliffs is not only a beautiful sight to see but an essential part of Portugal’s history as it is the oldest lighthouse in the country. It was built in 1772 and once was the guiding light for sailors on their way back home. Today you can find a quaint souvenir shop inside, with an overpriced “certificate” of your visit to the westernmost part of Europe, but it mostly just adds to the scenery of the entire location.

Be sure to take a walk down the entire cliffside, the view changes as you continue walking and the landscape towards the northeastern part of the park is absolutely stunning. It looked so much like the green fields of Scotland or Ireland and not like something in the middle of the Mediterranean.

Stop #2: Praia do Guincho

Our next stop is Praia do Guincho, one of the most famous and magnificent beaches on this coastline. To get here if you’re driving, it’s an absolute breeze, just a few minutes drives from Cabo da Roca. If you have a tourist bus ticket, you can get on the next bus returning to Cascais but BE SURE to not only tell your driver you want to get off at Praia do Guincho but also you sit near the driver and make sure to remind him as you approach (you shouldn’t have to do this but since he missed out stop altogether its better to be safe than sorry).

If you’re using public transport hop onto the Scotturb bus #403 and get off at Malveira da Serra, which is the first stop on the bus after getting on at Cabo da Roca. From Malveira da Serra stop change onto the bus #414 and jump off at the Charneca stop. The Charneca bus stop is located about a 25 minutes walk from the beach, and while the walk might not be “ideal”, it’s the easiest and quickest way (not to mention cheapest) when using public transport. Plus, the walk from Charneca is actually delightful since you get to see all the different houses and rural landscape of the suburbs of Cascais along the way. I’ve included a map of the walking route from the bus stop to the beach here so you can follow along.

Arrival at the Beach

Once you get to the beach, you can just relax! This beach is famous the world over for surfing. Since it is one of the windiest beaches in Portugal you’ll see hundreds of surfers, windsurfers and kite surfers here no matter the weather! It’s immensely entertaining to watch them out in the water! The beach is located on the edge of the Serra de Sintra National Park, which means that it’s natural beauty has been, and continues to be, preserved and protected. Due to the high winds, the beach is covered in sculptural sand dunes giving it that dynamic appearance. Grass grows through the sand and creates a strong contrast against the white sands and crystal blue waters.

Cresmina Beach

The beach is the perfect spot to grab some lunch with a view. While there are several Michelin star restaurants along the beach, these are enormously expensive (I was SHOCKED), and while they’re highly rated, most of us won’t have that kind of money to spend. But the real shock was the little beach we found at Cresmina Beach (located just on the other side of the dunes from Praia do Guincho). We thought this small shop would have nothing but chips and soda but were pleasantly surprised to find that they served hot pizza, salads, sandwiches and more! And best of all they were well priced and really delicious. Washed down with a freshly made sangria as you sit and enjoy the sound of waves crashing on the sand what more can you ask for?

I would recommend spending a few hours here. Have a leisurely lunch, walk along the beach, if the waves aren’t too intense you can even jump in the water for a swim! Cresmina Beach is a little calmer, and you’ll find more people swimming here while Praia do Guincho is THE place to be for surfing. We sat and watched the surfers for hours, it was pleasantly mesmerizing. We visited in May and despite the warm weather the beach wasn’t overcrowded and there still was a lovely peaceful atmosphere to the whole place.

Stop #3: Boca do Inferno

Next up on the itinerary is Boca de Inferno. To get here, if you have a car or are Ubering it’s located just 9 minutes down the road. The hop-on-hop-off tourist bus will also drop you off there (the stop after Guincho Beach) or if you want to take public transport, you can get on bus #415 which picks you up right from Guincho beach. Get off at the stop Bairro do Rosário and walk the 17 minutes towards the cliffs. Map of the walking route is located below.

“Boca do Inferno” in Portuguese means “Hell’s Mouth”. It sounds a lot scarier than it really is. It’s actually quite stunning. Over the years, this rocky outcrop’s proximity to the strong waves created a cave, which then collapsed, leaving a natural arch as a window into the water filled chasm. There is something truly magical about watching the waves as they splash and crash inside the dark cave. They swirl and spin, changing colours as they move and swell.

Aleister Crowley

One of the strangest parts of this place’s history is its involvement in the “death” of famed magician and astrologer Aleister Crowley. The occultist came here to fake his death in 1930 with the help of poet Fernando Pessoa. It was meant as a publicist stunt to promote the opening of an exhibition of Crowley’s work at a gallery in Berlin, where he “magically” reappeared when the doors were opened. Perhaps one of the first “social media” stunts of the 20th century.

Stop #4: the Santa Marta Lighthouse

From the Boca de Inferno, we will walk the rest of the way back into town. You can also drive back into Cascais, but the walk along the coast is a short and beautiful one with a few small things to see along the way. The Santa Marta Lighthouse is a very Portuguese looking lighthouse, covered with a striped pattern of white and blue tiles. The lighthouse was built on the site of a 17th-century fort in 1868. Although it has long been put out of use, it now maintains itself as a little museum and lovely piece of traditional decoration along the coast. The manor house it sits behind is a coast paradise and duo, along with scenic palm trees is a picture perfect photo.

Along the cobblestone pedestrian walkway back into town, you’ll pass dozen of the enormous estates and gorgeous houses. Some of these mansions were built back in the 17th century by the rich and famous of Lisbon’s high society. One of these famous mansions is the Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães. This manor house is now a small museum housing paintings, ancient artefacts & old books collected by the owner, now open to the public.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Stop #5: Citadel of Cascais

Continuing along the road you’ll see the large, rocky walls of the Citadel of Cascais start to emerge as you creep closer to the city. These fortifications were built in the 15th and 17th centuries to defend the Cascais coastline. There are three different buildings which make up the entire complex; the tower of Santo António de Cascais, the Fortress of Our Lady of Light and the former Royal Palace. You might be surprised to learn that the Royal Palace was restored and converted into a hotel in the 21st century. It’s incredible private chapel is now used to host some of the most amazing weddings which bring people from all over the world to Cascais.

Stop #6: Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Assunção

One of the most amazing churches in Cascais is the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption or “Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Assunção“. The church dates all the way back to the 16th century, and because Cascais was left virtually untouched by war or modernization, the church maintains its historic design. Inside you’ll find golden niches surrounded in stunning blue an white 18th-century traditional Portuguese tile work.

Stop #7: Ribeira Beach Cascais

Turning along the Avenue Dom Carlos, you’ll come upon Ribeira Beach in the town Cascais. Imagine having a beach this beautiful just steps away from the centre of town! You could even come down here on your lunch break! The beach is full of brightly coloured umbrellas, laughing children playing in the sand and there is ALWAYS a team of volleyball players battling it out on the small court.

Behind the beach is a classic Portuguese square with those iconic black and white cobblestones in a wave pattern. You’ll see this same pattern used all over Portugal but set right next to the ocean it feels even more appropriate. Also in the square is a beautiful bronze statue of a woman whose leg’s form the shape of a wave, her body wrapped in a ship’s rope. She looks out towards the ocean, perhaps eternally waiting for sailor to return home.

Stop #8: Palacete Seixas

Standing on the beach, you can see a castle-like structure in the distance, this is the Palacete Seixas. This old military fort was transformed in the 19th century into a grand mansion for a wealthy aristocrat to live in. When he died, he left the structure to the Portuguese Marines in his last will and testimony. Today it’s used as a meeting office for Marine officials but also creates a wonderful backdrop for beachgoers.

Stop #10: Cascais Town Hall

Opposite the beach is the great Town Hall, distinguishable by its ornate facade covered in azulejos (Portuguese tiles) depicting various Catholics Saints across the facade.

In the centre of the Town Hall square is the statue of King Peter the 1st. King Peter was the one who declared Cascais a township and gave them independence from Sintra in 1364. Before this, Cascais was seen as Sintra’s little brother. A community simply put in place to support the people of Sintra, but over the years it’s fishing industry swelled beyond anyone’s expectations, and it began bringing in more money for Portugal than Sintra ever could. It felt strongly that it deserved this designation, but it wasn’t until King Peter that Cascais was finally able to become its own independent city and therefore King Peter is greatly respected amongst the people of Cascais.

Stop#11: Largo Luís de Camões

Just down from the Town Hall is Largo Luís de Camões, a pedestrian-only street which is where you’ll find dozens of lively bars and restaurants. So many of the roads which connect to Largo Luís de Camões are also worth exploring, they are littered in pretty pastel houses replete with flowers pouring off their rooftops. Around each corner, see if you can spot the incredible tiled street signs which make even the most simple alley look like a royal lane.

Stop#12: Rue Frederico Arouca

A little way up from the Largo Luís de Camões, turn right and continue down Rue Frederico Arouca, another street dedicated to pedestrians only. This street is filled with eclectic shops, souvenir stores and gorgeous old architecture full of character. This is a great place to shop for some items for friends and family back home as its relaxed atmosphere is one of the best places to leisurely find some hidden gems.

Stop#13: Jardim Visconde da Luz

At the top of the main street is the Jardim Visconde da Luz, a beautiful park where locals come to play with their kids and get away from the heat of the sun under the shade of these green trees. In the centre of this adorable square is one of the most beautiful carousels I’ve ever seen! Only children can ride it since it’s so small, but each of the animals on the carousel is so charmingly sculpted and full of life! Unlike some carousels which are more fantastical, this one is filled with farm animals which look like they’ve been plucked straight from a nursery rhyme.

Stop#14: Moules and Gin

Across from the park is a little restaurant serving up one of Cascais’ specialities; seafood – specifically, mussels! Moules and Gin is a low key, off the tourist track, restaurant popular with locals due to its low prices and straightforward menu which only aims to highlight the incredible taste of fresh seafood right from the ocean!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Stop#15: Gelados Santini

For dessert, just follow the line up around the block surrounding Gelados Santini. Beach towns really do manage to have the best ice cream and gelato, the perfect combination for a day out in the sand and sun. The handmade gelato is fresh, and if there are any seasonal flavours, those are a must-have! The strawberry flavour feels like licking the berries right off the vine!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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With the last lick of gelato comes the end of our day in Cascais. To return back to Lisbon just hop back on the same train which brought you here or head back to the city in your car. Having dinner and dessert in Cascais means you’ll miss the end-of-day rush of both locals and tourists heading back into the city. Hopeful you’ll be swayed into coming over to Cascais on your own and skip the bus tours.

There is just so much to see here, and those organized tours are much too rushed for the rich history which Cascais offers up. With a little effort and organization, you can absolutely see all there is to see here on your own. If you have any questions about Cascais, let me know in the comments! I can’t wait to return and perhaps even spend the night to see this fantastic city when the sun sets, and there’s nothing but the sound of the ocean crashing on the shore to lull me to sleep

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Discover the Beauty of Portugal’s Coastline: A Complete Guide to Cascais and Cabo Da Roca first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. 1. Thinking Portuguese is Spanish
2. 2. Rushing Through the City
3. 3. Waiting for the Santa Justa Elevator or Torre de Belem Elevator
4. 4. Not Exploring with a Local
5. 5. Not Bringing Shoes with Grip
6. 6. Thinking that Bread is Free in Restaurants
7. 7. Not Jumping in an Uber
8. 8. Forgetting to a Buy a Transport Card
9. 9. Paying for Overpriced Fado Shows
10. 10. Not Tasting Ginjinha on the Street
11. 11. Not Being Aware of your Surroundings
12. 12. Not Remembering to Reapply Sunscreen in the Afternoon
13. 13. Only Sampling the Belém Pastéis de Nata
14. 14. Not Learning How to Order Coffee

1. Thinking Portuguese is Spanish

While many travellers might initially assume that Portuguese is similar to Spanish, trust me, it’s NOT! I had just been to Mexico City earlier in the year, and when I started my Portuguese lessons, I thought all that Spanish would have helped – nope, that was not the case! I found Portuguese a harder language to learn than even Japanese, and I greatly respect anyone who has mastered the language.

Don’t try to speak Spanish thinking that locals will understand that more than English if you don’t know how to speak Portuguese. Most Portuguese people prefer English to Spanish. I was surprised by how many locals spoke terrific English, but don’t rely on that. Ensure you learn at least a few words; the basics are pretty easy to grasp, and it makes a big impression on those you speak to. Below are a few key phrases I found to be the most useful.

Hello – Olá
Goodbye – Adeus
Good Morning – Bom dia
Good Afternoon – Boa tarde
Good Night – Boa noite
Thank You – Obrigado (if said by a man) Obrigada (if said by a woman)
Sorry – Desculpe
Yes – Sim
No – Não
Please – Por Favor
This (good for pointing to menu or food items) – isto
How Much? – Quanto custa?

2. Rushing Through the City

One of the biggest mistakes I think people make is trying to rush through cities. And a part of me understands this, we don’t all have unlimited vacation time, and flights are expensive, especially if you’re visiting from outside of Europe. We cannot pop over from Spain or France on a long weekend. But Lisbon is such a vibrant city, and even though it appears to be very small, it’s both dense in physical form and history, steeped inside its walls. Spending a week here made us feel more like we could explore those hidden corners or get lost without worrying about losing precious time.

I know many people can see all there is to see here in a jam-packed three-day itinerary, but we adored having an entire week to relax and see the sights. Europeans, in general, but perhaps Portuguese more so, take things slow. They don’t like being rushed or on time, for that matter. So being able to adjust to their way of doing things felt more authentic than trying to rush through lunch and run out without savouring that last glass of wine. I felt like a week with one or two little outings outside the city was a perfect time!

3. Waiting for the Santa Justa Elevator or Torre de Belem Elevator

The Santa Justa Elevator is one of the city’s oddest yet most stunning sights. It was initially built in the 19th century for locals to use to get up the steep hill from the Baixa district to the Largo do Carmo. Its elegant design made in wrought-iron and covered in neo-gothic arches and striking geometric patterns is a spectacle for the eyes. But when the city of Lisbon bought the tower, they changed it from being a free mode of transportation and turned it into a touristy nightmare. Now lines run around the block, and tourists pay €6.40 for a 1-minute trip up to the top.

At the top, you do get one of the most astonishing views across the city, but this area is easily accessible without taking the lift. If you take the escalators inside Rossio Station, up to the Carmo Convent, the viewpoint is located just around the corner. To get to the viewpoint, you pass through a small restaurant but don’t worry about going inside, they are used to this, and it’s not a problem. On there, you’ll find the same view all those other tourists, who wasted hours in line, get to see. The Torre de Belem has the same kind of issue.

While the outside is a must-see in town, the interior is pretty lacking, and the view from the top of the tower is not that impressive. The lines can be hours long, and it is much better to skip it altogether and spend more time walking along the beautiful waterfront with waterside views of the tower.

4. Not Exploring with a Local

Lisbon is one of those cities which seems to have a million hidden secrets and things you can’t learn from a book. We hired a private tour guide to give us a 4-hour walking tour of the city on the first full day we arrived. This is the PERFECT way to get introduced to the town. Bruno, our historian for the day, told us many charming stories as we wandered the streets. He took us to the tremendous must-see sights and unknown little treasures.

There are plenty of free tours you can take, but Lisbon is booming with tourists, and often these tours are enormous, with over 30-40 people in one group with one guide. This makes it hard to hear the sound of streetcars and traffic and almost impossible to ask those burning questions you might be wondering. If budget allows, go for the private tour options, which can also be customized to your group’s interests.

5. Not Bringing Shoes with Grip

I realize you might think this is obvious; comfortable shoes are essential when travelling, but I’ve never had so much trouble walking as I did in Lisbon. The worn-down cobblestones sidewalks and the steep hills mean that you need comfy shoes and shoes with a great grip! I have a few excellent pairs of travel shoes which I’ve never had problems with that failed me on a few occasions when I was almost sent flying down the hill!

Thankfully, a few other party members had grippy shoes, and we would take turns holding onto each other when walking down those steep hills. I had heard that Lisbon was like Rome in that it was a town built on seven hills, but unlike Rome, these hills are incredibly steep, and climbing up and down the streets of Alfama is a workout and a half!

6. Thinking that Bread is Free in Restaurants

At many restaurants in Lisbon, not just those cheesy touristy ones, you’ll often be served bread and olives before the meal. Coming from North America, where bread before a meal is usually served without charge, I assumed it was free. It wasn’t, and although the cost wasn’t expensive, I was surprised to see a cost associated with something to me without asking for it.

Thinking that this one restaurant experience was a fluke, we had dinner the next night and experienced the same charge when we got the bill after digging into the olives and bread. I finally looked this up, wondering if this was something that just kept happening to me and found that it’s prevalent. If you aren’t interested in paying for the bread and olives, say no, before they place them down on your table, and they will take them away without incident. But sometimes you’re starving, and bread and olives sound like just the ticket to tide you over before dinner is served. If that’s the case, ask the server for the cost, so you know what to expect and make your decisions.

7. Not Jumping in an Uber

In a city as hilly as Lisbon, you can quickly get tired. Many times people might think of hailing a cab to get home after a long day but often are afraid to in case they take a long, unnecessary route to get to their destination to run up the meter. Uber, on the other hand, is all priced upfront. We loved taking Uber in Lisbon since we were a group of four, and often, taking an Uber was much, much cheaper than for each of us to pay for a ticket on the metro.

The Ubers we took were all super clean, the drivers extremely friendly, and some would even give us a little tour of the buildings we were passing by! A trip from the airport via Uber costs less than 10 euros (leaving from the departure terminal), including our luggage. Ubers make it so you can take that trip up to a miradouro (lookout point) before sunset, even if your legs are tired and there isn’t a nearby metro station. It’s a great way to make the most of your time in the city without tiring yourself going up and down those hills.

8. Forgetting to a Buy a Transport Card

You can buy these little reloaded metro cards at all the metro stations in Lisbon. They only cost 0.50 euros; you can load them up with as much money as you think you’ll need. This makes getting on and off trains a breeze, with no need to buy separate tickets or calculate the fares. Simply tap on and off, and the money will automatically be calculated and removed from the total on your card. The line-ups for train tickets can get long, especially at stations like Rossio, where the trains depart for Sintra. Having a swipe card will mean you don’t need to line up either at the ticket booth or electronic machines, savings yourself what can be a lot of time!

9. Paying for Overpriced Fado Shows

Fado is a form of Portuguese singing which originated in the 1820s in Portugal’s urban cafes and pubs. It is notable for being profoundly melancholic, and despite these sad tunes, it’s one of the most popular things for tourists to seek out when in Lisbon. There are signs all over for tickets to Fado dinners & show experiences. Most of these places are super overpriced, and the food is incredibly subpar, especially when there is SO MUCH great food for cheap you can find in this city.

There are plenty of amazing places to see real Fado around the town, which won’t cost you an arm and a leg. A Tasca do Chico puts on FREE Fado music Mondays and Wednesdays in the Bairro Alto district. The restaurant can get SUPER crowded, so get there EARLY! Fado is a late-night experience, so expect performances to start around 9 pm and go till 1 or 2 am! Unlike other places which might charge a cover fee, this restaurant doesn’t. That being said, since you need to show up so early to save yourself a table, it’s only right to order some drinks and perhaps a few bits of tapas to make your time there worth it for the servers and staff. But this cost is far and away cheaper than what you’ll find at the Prix-fix places.

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10. Not Tasting Ginjinha on the Street

Ginjinha or Ginja is a Portuguese liqueur from fermented sour cherries blended with sugar and cinnamon. You’ll see dozens of shops selling and advertising this sweet treat. And despite its prevalence in tourist hubs, you’ll be surprised to know it isn’t just a touristy thing. You’ll see old ladies sipping it outside ancient bars and men grabbing one quick glug before heading to dinner.

Ginjinha has been around since the Romans brought cherries to Lisbon in the 5th century. The same family has run many of the tiny closet-sized shops which sell shots of Ginjinha for multiple generations. Here, they serve just one thing; Ginjinha. You can order it two ways, with or without the fruit. (I found the fruit to be SUPER strong, so I preferred it without). You can also get it served in chocolate cups, but this was actually a modern-day invention by the Portuguese chocolate manufacturers who made a chocolate Ginjinha cup at one of their conventions, and it seemed to catch on from there. Still a delicious way to have Ginjinha but not as authentic.

Every different brand tastes a bit different. Some are more strong, and some are a little sweeter and wine-like. The little shots cost just 1-2 euros, so it’s easy to grab one wherever you see them sold to find your favourite.

11. Not Being Aware of your Surroundings

Locals we met with mentioned to us time and time again to beware of pickpockets. Having been to Barcelona without incident, I employed many of my same techniques, most importantly of which is to be AWARE. If you’re in a crowd, always be sure to have a hand on your bag or, at the very least, we are conscious of who gets close to you. You don’t need to be paranoid about it, but there is always an element of catching people off their guard, which is when pickpockets make their move. If someone seems too nice or if you have a bad feeling about something, go with your gut and just remove yourself from the situation.

Tourist trams are one of the worst places for pickpocketing since space is at a premium, and thieves do most of their business when you’re too busy taking pictures to notice. There are plenty of great theft-proof bags you can buy, but a solution I found was to buy a tiny lock which latches the two zippers of my back bag together, rendering it theft-proof. Always keep your bag on your lap at an outdoor restaurant or cafe, not on the floor or on an empty chair where it can quickly be snatched up. I didn’t feel like there was ever a moment when I felt unsafe or vulnerable, but I also felt that knowing these things and taking precautions would be much safer than if I had gone about my business without considering it.

12. Not Remembering to Reapply Sunscreen in the Afternoon

The sun is the strongest in Portugal between noon and 3 pm, and you’d be surprised that late in the afternoon is when you’ll actually feel the warmest. Even at 6 pm, the sun was beating down on my shoulders, hotter than it felt at 2 pm! I’m someone who puts on sunscreen in the morning and forgets to reapply, which resulted in a mighty sunburn on this trip. Painful enough to teach me a good lesson! Around when you have lunch, it’s always a good idea to grab some sunscreen out of your bag and reapply for the rest of the afternoon.

During the afternoon, when the sun is high in the sky, and the temperature is at its hottest, try to schedule some indoor fun if you find it unbearable. Bring a good hat (which won’t blow off in the high winds which Lisbon is famous for) and drink plenty of water. Obviously, this advice is moot if you’re travelling during the winter months, but even in the springtime, it can get surprisingly hot, so don’t hesitate to slather on that sun protection or you’ll be left like I was, having to get after-sun cream from a very judgmental pharmacist.

13. Only Sampling the Belém Pastéis de Nata

Portuguese custard tarts are one of the most popular things tourists come to eat while visiting Lisbon. They are a centuries-old recipe passed down from monks in monasteries, and one of the most popular places to try them is in Belém, where they originated the recipe. While the Belém tart shop is undoubtedly the most popular and historical, there are many other places to try all over Lisbon. It would be a shame only to try this one location when there are so many others you can try.

Give that diet a break while in Lisbon, and eat to your heart’s content! You can find these “pastéis de nata” in trendy cafes and tiny unknown bakeries hidden around quiet street corners. The line at the Belém location sometimes stretches for blocks, and although it might give you a good idea of the benchmark flavours of the original, modern chefs as well as enterprising home bakers, have developed their own versions, which might be even more appealing to you! They also sell these pastries at the grocery store; you never know where to find your favourite.

14. Not Learning How to Order Coffee

If you’re anything like me, no morning starts off on the right foot without a nice cup of coffee. I’ve learned from travelling worldwide that ordering coffee is never the same in one country as in the next. , I managed to order my coffee in Lisbon just fine, but all my friends who were travelling with me had great trouble ordering. Cafés function in a completely different way in Lisbon than they do in North America. In Lisbon, most coffee shops aren’t a place to have a seat, pop open your laptop, and relax with Wi-Fi. No, in Lisbon, cafés are where workers order a shot of espresso and down it at the bar before quickly heading off.

There are no signs across the counter with menu options. It’s up to you to give your order to the barista to get what you want. To get something similar to a latte, you should order “Um galão,” and for a coffee with milk, ask for “uma meia de leite,” which is half milk, half coffee. You’ll almost always be given a side of sugar since it seems like the Portuguese never drink black coffee. To order a standard espresso, ask for “uma bica,” a Portuguese word only used in Lisbon.

If you’re looking for something similar to an Americano ask for “um abatanado, “and if you want milk with it, ask for “um abatanado com um pouco de leite.” Cafes in Lisbon are places people pop in and out of all day. Instead of getting one colossal coffee in the morning, you’re more likely to be served a little coffee, which means you can visit more cafes throughout the day!

Let me know if you found anything on your last trip to Lisbon, you’d recommend travellers avoid or be aware of! Or, if you’re planning a trip, let me know anything else you’re curious about for your first time in Portugal!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post 14 Tourist Mistakes NOT to Make on your First Trip to Lisbon first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

History of Fraser Island

Fraser Island is listed as a UNESCO world heritage site due to its rare combination of shifting sand-dunes, tropical rainforests and inland lakes. It is also the largest sand island in the world. The island was originally inhabited by the Butchulla people. ‘Butchulla’ in the aboriginal language means “the sea people” since they were surrounded on all sides by the power ocean. The Butchulla people named this island “Paradise”. Fraser Island was discovered by the western world in 1770 by explorer James Cook, but Cook never ventured onto the island, only viewed it from afar. In 1836 Captain Fraser was the first non-aboriginal to step foot on the island.

But Fraser never made it off the island, after being killed by the aboriginals but his daughter survived and was rescued. It was her that told the story of the island and what she found there. Archaeological evidence has uncovered that the aboriginal people of the island have lived here for over 5000 years. Today, the island has a permanent population of only 194 people, mind you there are a lot more people on the island day-to-day on tourist excursions but the fact that the overall population is so low means the island preserves that peaceful, oasis feeling.

Guided Tour or On Your Own?

There are two ways to experience the island for yourself. One is by joining a guided tour, and the other is by taking or renting your own car. Each has there own pros and cons and you simply need to weigh the different experiences and see which one is for you. The advantages of a guided tour are your guides are extremely experienced in driving in the sandy, off-road conditions. They are highly capable drivers who know this island inside and out. They provide food, drinks and accommodation all already set up for you upon arrival. You also get to meet other travellers and stay with a big group as well – which can be a pro or a con depending on your personality type.

The most significant drawbacks is you can’t really make the itinerary bespoke or go at your own pace. If you fall in love with one location, you can’t just stay there all day. You also don’t have as much flexibility over your accommodations or type of food. In terms of price, there are various operators, but the most reliable and highly rated 2-day tours are Fraser Explorer Tours ($250 US ) and Sunset Safaris ($286 US). And while that might seem steep remember this includes pretty much everything you’ll need along the way and a personal; guide and driver. I liked the freedom of being able not to worry about all the little details and just concentrate on the experience and seeing all those incredible new sites along the way.

Exploring Fraser Island on Your own

Going on your own is hugely advantageous since you can control every bit of your adventure, from where you stay, what you see, how long to spend in each place and what you want to eat. The biggest cons are you need to organize your car rental, permits, be your own navigator, pack all your food and either buy your own camping equipment or stay in one of the various hotels or Glamping grounds on the island. For people who love driving, getting to cruise down along the famous 75-mile beach is an experience of a lifetime. So if you’re someone who loves to drive this is definitely a bucket list adventure, you wouldn’t wanna miss. Either way, you’re bound to have a fantastic time!

Driving and Car Rental Advice

If you’re thinking of just driving your regular Honda Civic onto the island, think again. Only 4WD vehicles with low-range capacity and high clearance are allowed onto the island. Most people opt to rent a vehicle even if they have a 4WD car since the roads on Fraser Island are so tough they’d rather not push their own car too far. If you’re confident with your car and rather drive something familiar just be sure you get a permit for your vehicle to drive on the island, these can be purchased at any of the tourist information booths in Rainbow Beach or Hervey Bay.

4WD Rentals

There are many different companies which rent 4WD vehicles for Fraser Island excursions, all of which will have the necessary permits. These companies will also often help you with finding a good camping site and give advice for the best route to take at that time of year. The roads throughout Fraser Island are all made of sand and if you’ve never driven on sand before be sure to ask your renting agency for some lessons on how best to tackle it.

While there are discount places where you can get a car, this kind of expensive is something you shouldn’t skimp on. Your car breaking down on the island where there’s no reception or local police to give you a tow can turn what should be a fantastic adventure into a real catastrophe. The lowest price you’ll find for a 4WD rental is $100 US per person, per day. The prices often includes the car rental, off-road liability insurance cover, ferry transfers and vehicle permit.

Car Rental Tips

Ensure that when renting your vehicle you check the pressure in the tire as well as the car’s oil and water levels. Before leaving check that the vehicle has an emergency kit in case you get stuck in the sand or if there is a mechanical problem with the car. The best piece of equipment the car will need is a shovel since you’ll often find your wheels get stuck in the sand and need to be dug out slightly. There is virtually no reception on the island so getting a good GPS system or downloading an offline map is key to making your way around the island without getting lost.

You can also get a detailed paper map with the roads and distances marked on it provided by the National Park Service. You can pick these up at your rental agency. Remember, the beach highway is only accessible at low tide and is sometimes the gateway for you to get to your campsite, leaving it too late means you might get stranded until the water goes out once more. Driving at night is also unadvisable since there are no street lamps and the road is hard enough to see in the daytime. Avoid driving in the water since the salt water will ruin the car and even if it’s a rental you don’t want to risk getting being charged for the damage.

Packing Tips

What to Pack for a Guided Tour

If you’re taking a guided tour, you won’t need to make as long of a list as if you’re going it on your own. Here are the key items to bring with you!

• A small backpack should be enough to hold everything you need. Remember, even if you’re taking a guided tour, this is a still venturing into the natural landscape so travelling light and small is key to making the most of your journey. You don’t want to be lugging a huge suitcase through the sand.
• Good walking boots for the sandy hikes are essentials
• A pair of small flip slops are great for playing in the water and along the beach. The extra pair of shoes is always a good idea if the first pair gets water.
• The weather can sometimes be a bit rainy so if you’re expecting that bring a light raincoat.
• Even in the best whether you’re going to be in and out of the water so a few pairs of socks are a great idea.
• A small, quick dry towel is a lifesaver!
• Even in the winter or on a cloudy day the UV rays in Australia are dangerous, so sunscreen is an absolute necessity.
• Of course, bring your camera! There is indeed nothing like the spectacular things you’ll see along the way.
• Remember to carry extra batteries and portable backup charger since there isn’t much electricity available on the bus and even at the campsites it can be a hot commodity. If you’re staying at the resort you’ll be able to charge up there, but while you’re out on the road, those things are handy to have.
• A small hat and pair of sunglasses
• A bathing suit is essential for floating down one of the many lazy river creeks and swimming in the inland lakes.
• Most likely the weather will be pretty warm, so two pairs shorts and t-shirts are your best bet for your daily outfits
• A lightweight hoodie or sweater along with a pair of pants is perfect for when it cools down in the evening.
• During October to March, the bugs are pretty bad, so insect repellant is vital to remember if you’re sensitive to bug bites.
• A good water bottle that you can can refill at any of the water refill stations is a must have. Having fun on Fraser Island can get exhausting, so making sure you’re keeping hydrated is essential to remember.

What to Pack for a self driving trip

If you’re renting a car and driving yourself, you can stop off at one of the many supply shops near the ferry stations which are always stocked with exactly the right things for campers on their way to Fraser Island. In addition to all items below, you’ll need the same as the above mentioned for the group tours. The camping essentials you’ll need are;

• Camping equipment (tent, sleeping bags, etc.)
• Extra fuel and a full tank
• A lantern or flashlight (key for late night trips to the bathroom)
• Ice inside a proper cooler
• Lots of water for drinking and washing (don’t skimp on this)
• An emergency medical supplies kit
• A gas cooking stove
• Food to eat both on the road and at your campsite
• Most of the campgrounds have public toilets, but some of the showers cost $2 so be sure you have some change on hand for them as well.

Accommodations

There are four options for lodging while visiting the island. If you’re travelling on a guided tour, each provider has a specific accommodation type which is provided so if you are hell bent on not camping be sure to check which kind of lodging they offer before booking. Now, I’m not a big fan of camping either, but I LOVED camping out on Fraser Island so I would highly recommend getting your courage up and giving it a try! It really connects you to the natural environment in a way that hotels are never going to give you.

Hotels

There are various hotels on the island in the central locations of Kingfisher Bay, Happy Valley and Eurong. The most popular and highly rated is the Kingfisher Bay Resort on the west coast. Rooms cost as little as $130 US for a standard room. The Eurong Resort Hotel on the northeast coast is another option with rooms at $90 US/night.

Airbnb

Airbnb is another option which has recently started up on the island. They have houses with full kitchens and rooms for a vast group. While their prices range from $180-230 a night, you get a better sense of life on the island and can house a lot of people so if you’re a big group you might find the price per person actually quite low.

Campgrounds

Camping is the most authentic way to experience Fraser Island. There are 45 different camping areas across the island, each with their own unique features and facilities. Five of the camping areas are surrounded by dingo deterrent fences. The downside to these areas are they aren’t very private. The most popular areas on the island are the ones closest to the primary services (Eurong, Happy Valley and Cathedrals) and roads but if you’re willing to trek out a bit further and are prepared to be self-sufficient, you’ll be rewarded with total privacy.

Central Station camping area is one of the most popular as it’s located near the major roads, has a fenced area, offers excellent facilities and best of all is situated under one of the most picturesque regions of the canopied rainforest.

Waddy Point beachfront camping area offers up the most impressive views of the sunset across the crystal clear waters. There is also a fenced in an area here and as such this spot books up quick! Camping should be booked in advance if possible as it guarantees you the place you want. The cost to book in advance is a small fee of $4 US but worth it for the peace of mind. The cost of camping is meagre, only $4 US per adult and $3.3 US per child.

Glamping

My favourite option and the one we stayed in with our guided tour was the Beachcamp Eco Retreat. While this might sound extravagant, it’s actually an excellent option for people who want the outdoor experience of camping but don’t want to rent or buy a tent. You just arrive, check in and walk into your tent all set up and ready for you. And its more than just a tent. The Beachcamp Eco Retreat provides Glamping Tents which have a real bed inside on top of a raisedfloor, key for those rainy days. The retreat’s electricity and water run on solar power, so it is very eco-friendly. There are hot showers on site along with an ensuite bathroom, private beach access, BBQs as well as a fully equipped kitchen. The cost is $98 US/night for the for a room for 2 adults and 2 kids.

Food on Fraser Island

Plan on bringing your own food unless you are staying at the resorts, where there are restaurants on the premises. Although there are some places to eat around the island they are pretty pricey and often will require going out of your way to access. Groceries can be purchased in town before heading onto the island, and you can buy a veritable feast for under $100 for a family of 4. Be sure to pick up some traditional Aussie camping treats. This includes; a goon sack (or three…) which is basically boxed wine without the box, kangaroo sausages for grilling, baked beans, Vegemite and bread for toast, some canned chicken and corn soup, hamburgers with beetroot, a box of Lamingtons and Tim Tam for dessert. And of course, lots of water.

Accessing Fraser Island

Fraser Island is located 300 kilometres north of Brisbane. Most people arrive at Fraser Island from Hervey Bay or Rainbow Beach whether they’re joining a tour of driving themselves. The best way to get to either of these destinations is to make your way to Brisbane (serviced by all major airlines) and take the Greyhound or Premiere bus to the Hervey Bay or Rainbow Beach. If you’re driving yourself, you won’t need to worry about the bus and just drive yourself to one of the two ferry points of access. Some tours also offer pickup in Brisbane so be sure to check the itinerary before booking since a pickup in Brisbane might save you a lot of time.

Ferries

If you’re taking a guided tour, they’ll give you a specific timeline of where to meet and your ticket onto the ferry will be prepaid. If you’re driving your own vehicle or your car rentals didn’t include ferry tickets the prices and ferry departure times are listed below.

Rainbow Beach Ferry

Rainbow Beach ferry departs from Inskip Point on the Manta Ray Barge. These barges leave every 30 minutes from 6:00 am to 5:15 pm. The return prince from this departure point is only $84 US including all passengers, so it’s definitely the best option price-wise.

Hervey Bay Ferry

Hervey Bay‘s ferry departs from River Heads and leaves the mainland at 8:30 am, 10:15 am, 4.00 pm. This barge requires a reservation in advance since there aren’t as many daily departures. River Heads Ferry costs between $120 US for a standard 4WD vehicle including the driver and $190 US for a Large 4WD vehicle. Each additional passenger in the car is $4 US. Once more, if you’ve purchased a package with this included you won’t need to worry about paying.

Beware of Dingos

Dingos on Fraser Island are actually the last remaining pure-bred dingoes in Australia. And while spotting one of these iconic creatures might be a momentous moment, you also need to be aware that while they might look cute, you always need to take caution whenever you are around them. Dingos have been known to attack people, and there have even been a few cases where it has ended in fatalities. As recent as January of this year a young boy was attacked by a group of dingos and had to be airlifted to the hospital. So they indeed are no laughing matter. There are a few safety tips to ensure you don’t let that happen to you.

• Always ensure your food is locked away in your vehicle and never ever feed the dingoes. Don’t leave food in your tent even if it’s sealed, the dingos can still smell it and get in. Make sure you clean up any food of tables and grills after eating since the smell is likely to attract them as well.
• Always keep children within arms reach. The dingos are less likely to attack when faced with a group of large adults.
• While going for a jog on the beach might seem appealing, avoid running or jogging since it will trigger the dingos into an aggressive interaction.
• If you do run into a dingo, stand still and face the dingo, don’t turn your back as that leaves you vulnerable. Calmly walk backwards and call for help.
• Should you be attacked the emergency number in Australia is 000 or 112. Most people who visit the island never even see a dingo and while this all might sound scary the chances of having a negative encounter if you follow this advice is very minimal.

Things to See and Do

While I would love to create you a detailed, hour by hour itinerary, your journey will be dictated by the tide. Some locations might be inaccessible if you’ve arrived at high tide and the order you visit each destination will depend on which ferry point you arrive at. So below is a sample itinerary of arrival from the Rainbow Beach Ferry Terminal and camping in Waddy Point Beachfront Campground. But even if you want a different route, the list of things to see and do here is a great start for your trip planning.

Day One – The Beach

Seventy-Five Mile Beach

Upon arrival on the island, you’ll immediately be struck by the incredible, bright white sands of the Seventy-Five Mile Beach. This beach stretches out the entire length of the east side of the island. As you approach the island from the ferry, you’ll see it straight away, contrasted by the bright blue waters and dark green forest. While the beach might look like a great place to take a dip, there is a large shark population and dangerous current which plagues this area. But don’t worry, there are still lots of places to take a dip while driving along the island!

Hammerstone Sandblow

Head inland when you reach Eurong Beach, and you’ll be on your way to see the Great Hammerstone Sandblow. Sandblows are major sand formations which flow like a river in a particular direction from weather and erosion. These sandblows shift and changes the landscape over time. This one actually is covering what used to be an entire forest eco-system which has been swallowed up with sand over the years. For the past 700,000 years, these sand dunes have been shifting and changing the shape of the island. The highest dune of the island is over 240 metres above sea level. The best way to take in the sheer enormity of these sandblows is from the air. And while a flight might not be an option, there are great hiking trails near our next destination which lead you up above the dunes where you can look out over the scenery.

Lake Wabby

Lake Wabby is a 4.8 km round trip hike from the nearest road. You get actually to walk across the Sandblow as you go. Trust me, I’m not very fit, but even I managed this hike. Driven by pure excitement as what I saw once we got out of the vehicle. Footprints from other travels create and bumpy pathway across what looks like a desert surrounded by a great rainforest. Located on the edge of the dunes is a Lake Wabby, an emerald green lake and the deepest of all the inland lakes on Fraser. Unlike the other though, this one is filled with wildlife! Freshwater turtles and even some fish can be seen swimming under the surface of the water!

Fraser Island Great Walk

Beside Lake Wabby is access to the Fraser Island Great Walk. This hiking trail is over 90km long, but you can quickly jump on it here and hike for only for a short time up unto the Lake Wabby lookout point. The landscape throughout the hike gives you a glimpse into the subtropical rainforest which makes Fraser Island so unique. Trees bend and twist as their sandy foundations shifts with the wind. The trees each contained strange and fascinating leaves and even some odd, alien looking growths.

Follow the signs along the way to the Lake Wabby look out. From here you have an unparalleled glimpse across not only the lake and sandblows but out onto the oceans as well. From here the people swimming in the waters looked like tiny ants and you could even spot groups of dingos out for a drink.

Eli Creek

Drive back down to the 75 Mile Beach and continue along until you reach Eli Creek. You’ll know you’ve made it right away from the groups of cars parked outside. During high season this area can get crowded but just remember you’re all there to see something amazing and don’t let the crowds get to you. Eli Creek is a clear freshwater creek surrounded by a leisurely boardwalk.

The creek stretches along inland and you can float down it inside a floaty doughnut or just walk along the broadway further into the lush rainforest. The water level rises and falls with the rainfall and the creek has been known to get as deep as 2 meters. It’s such a relaxing place just to cool off and admire your surroundings. This is a fantastic spot for the kids! When we visited the creek was very shallow, and we could even walk through many parts of it. If you need to use the washroom, this is also an excellent place to stop off.

Maheno Wreck

Further up from Eli Creek you’ll come upon a bright orange ship, sitting all alone on the shore. This is the S. S. Maheno. The Maheno was shipwrecked here in 1935 when a cyclone washed it onto the coast of Fraser Island. The ship was once used as a hospital by New Zealand’s Naval forces in World War I. During low tide, the entirety of the rusting vessel is exposed. The rusted metal is stunning against the white sands and blue seas.

Unlike some tourist attractions which are off limits, you have free reign of this place. And despite some signs advising not to climb up on top, you can really adventure right inside of it and imagine what different areas of the ship would have been used for before it was nothing but scrap metal. If you haven’t already had something to eat along the way in your car, this area has some great picnic tables where to can eat.

Red Canyon

As we continue up north, we come upon the incredibly colourful Coloured Sand Pinnacles, these can be found at the Red Canyon Park marked on your map. These multicoloured dunes are composed of iron compounds in the silica sand which give them this vibrant red, orange and sometimes even purples colours Different trees and bushes grow right out of the sand, the dark green leaves against the red a seemingly unnatural colour combo but created right from the earth.

These mystical sands were a feature in the aboriginal Butchulla people’s sacred stories. One such story is of a beautiful woman named Wuru who was promised to marry an older man named Winyer. But she loved someone else, she had fallen in love with Wiberigan, the rainbow serpent. Seeing them together one day the older man threw his boomerang at Wuru in anger but Wiberigan stepped in front of it to save Wuru. When the boomerang hit him the rainbow serpant it spilt its colours out all over the sandy cliffs. And to this day the cliffs are thought to be a place of good luck for the aboriginal people.

Indian Head

Continue driving a fair ways until you reach Indian Head lookout. Indian Head is a rocky hilltop which looks out over the island. A short hike up the outcrop will lead you to one of the best views on the island. The view from here not only looks out over the 75-mile beach but also the nearby crashing ocean. Take some time to study the water. If you bring some binoculars or even with the naked eye, you’ll have the chance to spot whales, dolphins, shark, rays and even turtles! It’s worth spending some time up here, we were mesmerized but the whales which breached the water and stayed here almost until the light of the day started to ween.

Champagne Pools

From the Indian Head trail, head down to the famed Champagne Pools. The Champagne Pools were my favourite part of the trip. Here, the surf crashes over the rocks and over hundreds of years has created these small pools on top of the rocks near the ocean’s edge. You can lounge in these waterlogged pools of water and relax in the sunlight. The water is actually quite warm, and it looks almost like a spa from afar, it’s hard to imagine its all natural.

Waddy Point

Pitch your tent in one of the various dingo fenced camping areas to stay the safest. Make some dinner on the gas stove and watch as the sun set over the ocean. This time of night on the island the cars stop running and the silence of only the wind over the waves is all that fills the air.

Nightlife

When night falls on the island, the entire place takes on a new shape. Check your local National Park guide book to see if there are any rangers tours near your campground at night. Don’t do it on on your own! These rangers are highly trained in local wildlife and how to avoid running into dangerous creatures. That being said there are some creatures you do want to see, this includes rare frogs, sugar gliders, snakes and some ENORMOUS spiders. We loved the tour we went on with the local ranger and felt it gave us a scary, yet exhilarating look at the different creatures which rule the island.

Day Two – Inland Rainforest

Rainforest Drive

On day two we are heading deep into the rainforest. The drive from the northernmost part of the island, inland toward Lake Mackenzie is a rough and wild ride, but it’s worth getting out along the way to stretch your legs and admire the incredible rainforest which surrounds you. You’ll be driving through this incredibly dense rainforest for a few hours so stopping along the way is a great way to break up the time.

Lake McKenzie

Lake McKenzie is one of the most popular parts of the of the island. It is often overwhelming full of tourists and bus tours. My advice? Skip it. This might sound like a crazy piece of advice since it’s famed as being one of the best things to see on the island. But right nearby are two other inland lakes which are arguably just as beautiful and you’ll have all to yourself. If you stop at McKenzie lake and it’s not too crowded by all means do it! But there’s no harm in checking out the others too.

Basin Lake

If Lake McKenzie is too busy considering heading a short ways away to Basin Lake. Basin Lake is an enormous perched lake formed when organic matter gradually decomposed and hardens into depressions created by the wind, making a lake bed that is actually above sea level. Because of the sensitive ecosystem in the lake, it is essential you do not wear sunscreen if you decide to take a swim. While this lake has a slightly more textural bottom than Lake McKenzie, I would argue it’s all the most scenic and peaceful. The water was pretty cold but it was an experience of a lifetimetaking a dip inside these unique waters. While Wabby Lake might be emerald green, this lake is crystal blue.

Wanggoolba Creek

Wanggoolba Creek is located in an area was once known as Central Station. Central Station was once the centre of the forestry industry when there was logging on Fraser Island. Some of the rarest ferns grow in the rainforest near here. There are beautiful boardwalks along Wanggoolba Creek with informative signage listing facts about the different flora and fauna growing on Fraser Island.

This brings you to the end of the tour. Take your vehicle back to the ferry station and catch the last ferry of the day. The last ferry of the day is silhouetted by the sunset against the water as you sail away from the island. I hope this guide helps you with your trip to Fraser Island. Are you planning on visiting sometime soon or have you been before? What are you looking forward to seeing or what was your favourite location? Share your thoughts with us in the comments!

The post The Ultimate Guide to a Road Trip across Australia’s Fraser Island first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.