Table Of Contents

1. History of Schlossplatz
2. The Katholische Hofkirche
   • Church Exterior Decor
     • Interior Features
     • Dresden Baroque
3. Napoleon Stone
4. The Georgentor
5. The Residenzschloss
6. Ständehaus
7. Fürstenzug, Procession of Princes
8. Augustus Bridge
   • Happy Travels, Adventueres

History of Schlossplatz

Like much of Dresden’s historic center, the Schlossplatz, or Palace Square, and its surrounding 15th-century buildings suffered devastating damage during the Allied bombings in World War II. The once-majestic structures, steeped in centuries of history, were reduced to rubble, leaving a stark reminder of the war’s destructive power.

However, Dresden’s post-war reconstruction efforts are nothing short of miraculous. In a city-wide commitment to preserving its rich cultural heritage, Dresden undertook some of the most ambitious and detailed restoration projects in history. Guided by archival photographs, old plans, and detailed records, the restoration teams worked tirelessly to rebuild Schlossplatz and its neighbouring buildings exactly as they stood before the war.

Each stone was meticulously chosen, and original materials were reused where possible. Skilled craftsmen replicated intricate carvings, ornate facades, and delicate architectural details, ensuring the reconstructed buildings were as authentic as possible. The result is a seamless blend of old and new, where the scars of the past are respectfully integrated into a vibrant and fully restored urban landscape.

Today, visitors to Schlossplatz can hardly distinguish between the original and restored elements, a testament to the city’s dedication to honouring its history. The square and its surrounding structures now stand as symbols of resilience and the enduring spirit of Dresden, reminding us of the city’s ability to rise from the ashes and reclaim its place as a cultural and historical beacon.

The Katholische Hofkirche

Perhaps the most important structure in the Scholssplatz is the Katholische Hofkirche or Cathedral of the Holy Trinity. When the Katholische Hofkirche was first built, it was the epicentre of Catholicism in Dresden. Augustus III commissioned the church after his father had built a historical Protestant church on the other side of the old town. However, as a Catholic, Augustus III wanted a place for his Catholic subjects to come and practice their new chosen religions.

Church Exterior Decor

The original church was built in 1738 and completed in 1755. Its design was entrusted to the Italian architect Gaetano Chiaveri, who crafted a majestic and intricately detailed building, embodying the Baroque style’s grandeur.

The church’s exterior is adorned with 78 statues of saints, apostles, and church fathers, which stand on the balustrades that line the roof, giving the cathedral a distinctive and ornate appearance. The tower of the Hofkirche, reaching a height of 86 meters (282 feet), is a prominent feature of Dresden’s skyline, visible from various points across the city. Its towering spire and richly decorated facade make it a striking contrast to Dresden’s more subdued Lutheran churches.

The Hofkirche was heavily damaged during the Allied bombing of Dresden in 1945, but like much of the city, it was painstakingly restored to its former glory. Today, the cathedral stands as a symbol of resilience and faith, serving as an active place of worship while attracting visitors from around the world who come to admire its beauty and historical significance. Although most of the church is a restoration, you can still make out some of the original architecture. Look for the dark-coloured sandstone, which was discoloured from oxidization, denoting its age.

Interior Features

Be sure to take a peak inside the Hofkirche, as its interior never ceases to impress with its grand scale and artistic detail. The spacious interior has high vaulted ceilings, richly adorned altars, and stunning frescoes. One of the key highlights is the large pipe organ, originally designed by the famous organ builder Gottfried Silbermann. The organ has been carefully restored and used for concerts and services, adding to the cathedral’s vibrant cultural life.

Beneath the cathedral lies the crypt of the Wettin family, where 49 members of the Saxon royal family, including Augustus the Strong, are interred. This adds a layer of historical significance to the cathedral, making it a place of worship and a site of deep historical importance.

Dresden Baroque

The church was built in the high Baroque style. Baroque architecture often emphasizes the contrast between light and dark to create dramatic visual effects. Inside the Hofkirche, this is achieved through the strategic placement of windows and the use of natural light to highlight the ornate decorations, creating a spiritual and theatrical atmosphere. The church is richly decorated with stucco work, gilding, and detailed carvings. The altars, in particular, are adorned with intricate sculptures and gold accents typical of the Baroque style. The emphasis on ornamentation is designed to overwhelm the senses, drawing the viewer’s attention to the spiritual themes depicted.

The Balthasar Permoser altar in the Katholische Hofkirche is a stunning example of Baroque craftsmanship, characterized by its elaborate design and dramatic expression. The centrepiece is a powerful crucifixion scene, surrounded by dynamic statues of saints and angels, all rendered with exquisite detail. Richly ornamented with gilded elements, the altar draws the eye upward, creating a sense of movement and spiritual elevation, embodying the grandeur and emotional intensity typical of Permoser’s work.

Napoleon Stone

When you exit the church and walk back into the square, be sure to look closely at the stones on the ground; just near the steps into the cathedral, you’ll find a special stone with the letter ‘N’ engraved into it. This unassuming stone is called ‘Napoleon Stone and marks where Napoleon Bonaparte is believed to have stood while observing his troops before the Battle of Dresden in August 1813.

During this period, Dresden was a crucial strategic location for Napoleon as he sought to defend his empire from the advancing coalition forces. The Battle of Dresden, which took place from August 26 to 27, 1813, was one of the last major victories for Napoleon before his eventual defeat. The stone serves as a tangible reminder of the city’s role in these pivotal historical events.

The Georgentor

Walking about to the corner of the square, look towards the south, opposite the river, where you can see the old city’s gates, called the Georgentor. The Georgentor or Georgenbau is my favourite building on the square. Originally built in the 16th century, it was the main gate into the city and served as the ceremonial entrance to the Dresden Castle. It was also the first building in Dresden, built in the fantastical Renaissance and Neo-renaissance style, featuring rich ornamentation and intricate reliefs that celebrate the power and heritage of the Saxon rulers.

The building’s facade is also richly adorned with depictions of religious themes. At the entrance, figures representing life and death stand as sentinels, while above them, the ominous inscription “Per invidia Diaboli Mors Intravit In Orbs” (Through the devil’s envy, death entered into the world) is meticulously carved into the stone.

The Residenzschloss

Stretching out to the east and west, connected to the Georgentor, you can make out some of the outer walls of the Residenzschloss or Dresden Royal Palace. This impressive palace, originally constructed in the 16th century, has served as the residence of the Electors and Kings of Saxony. The portion from Schlossplatz showcases a stunning blend of Renaissance, Baroque, and Neo-Renaissance architectural styles, reflecting the various phases of the palace’s development and restoration.

One of the most striking features visible from Schlossplatz is the Hausmannsturm (Hausmann Tower). With its distinctive copper roof, this tall, commanding tower rises above the palace, offering an iconic silhouette against the Dresden skyline. The tower is crowned with a large, gilded weather vane and serves as a reminder of the palace’s royal heritage. Visitors can even climb the tower for panoramic views of the city.

The Residenzschloss also houses several world-renowned museums, including the Green Vault (Grünes Gewölbe), which contains a treasure trove of artifacts and artwork, and the Turkish Chamber (Türckische Cammer), known for its collection of Ottoman art.

Ständehaus

The more modern Ständehaus, or Saxon Supreme Court, is on the east side of the square, built between 1901 and 1907. This building serves as the meeting place for the Saxon parliament, known as the Landtag, or the “House of Estates.” It’s a beautiful example of Historicist architecture, blending elements of the Neo-Renaissance style with Baroque influences.

Sitting outside the Ständehaus is the great statue of Friedrich August I of Saxony. The statue was erected in 1843 to honour the reign of Friedrich August I. The statue, created by the sculptor Ernst Rietschel, depicts Friedrich August I in a regal and contemplative pose, dressed in classical robes, symbolizing justice and wisdom, holding a sceptre in one hand, representing his authority and leadership. His calm demeanour in the statue reflects his reputation as a fair and just ruler, which earned him the title “the Just.”

Friedrich August I played a crucial role in modernizing Saxony. His reign was marked by significant legal reforms, including introducing the Saxon Civil Code, one of the most progressive legal systems of its time. He also invested in the development of infrastructure, including roads and bridges, which contributed to the region’s economic growth.

Fürstenzug, Procession of Princes

Just around the corner from the Ständehaus, you’ll immediately notice the massive mural stretches along the walls. This installation is called the ‘Fürstenzug,’ or the Procession of Princes. This work of art is a remarkable 102-meter-long, with tiles depicting a parade of 35 Wettin Dynasty rulers and other notable figures. Created in the late 19th century and later replaced with Meissen porcelain tiles, it is the largest porcelain artwork in the world, with 23,00 Meissen tiles! The mural celebrates Saxony’s royal heritage and cultural achievements, surviving the bombings of World War II largely intact.

Augustus Bridge

To finish this little guided walk through Dresden’s Scholssplatz, head over to the Augustus Bridge. The Augustus Bridge is a historic and iconic structure linking the Altstadt (Old Town) with the Neustadt (New Town) across the Elbe River. Although the current sandstone bridge was built between 1907 and 1910, it stands on the site of a series of bridges that have spanned the river since the 12th century.

Designed with nine arches to allow for better river traffic, the bridge blends functionality and classical beauty, seamlessly integrating with Dresden’s historic architecture. Standing on this bridge, watching the many boats pass by, and the sound of the horse-drawn carriages rush by is one of those quintessential Dresden experiences.

Exploring Dresden’s Schlossplatz is like stepping into a living museum, where every corner reveals a new chapter of the city’s rich history. As you walk through this historic square, you’re not just visiting buildings—you’re experiencing the essence of Dresden, a city that has gracefully blended its storied past with its vibrant present. Make this spot a must-see on your next visit to this city, which is replete with history!

Happy Travels, Adventueres

The post An Enchanting Guided Tour of Dresden’s Schlossplatz first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Just steps from the centre of town, shaded under the shadow of the Alpilles, hides the old asylum of Saint-Paul de Mausole. It was here, in 1899, that would-be famed artist Vincent Van Gogh came to seek treatment and refuge for the madness that plagued his creative mind. This self-guided tour unravels the layers of Van Gogh’s creative spirit. With each brushstroke, each captivating corner, and each soul-stirring story, you gain a deeper appreciation for the enduring impact of his work on art history and the human experience.

During his stay in Saint-Remy and Saint-Paul de Mausole, Van Gogh produced 150 paintings and over 100 drawings. Many paintings he completed here, like Starry Night, are considered his magnum opus. And while his stay at the asylum was mixed with light and dark moments, there is no doubt that his art continued to flourish here in Provence. So, set foot in the footsteps of this iconic artist, embrace the beauty and darkness that shaped him, and immerse yourself in his enchanting landscapes here in Saint-Remy.

Table Of Contents

1. About Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Van Gogh Walking Tour
2. The Life of Vincent Van Gogh
3. Start Your Walking Tour: Place Jules Pelissier
4. Walking the Van Gogh Art Route
5. Van Gogh's Cypress Trees
6. Van Gogh's Olive Grove
7. Saint-Paul de Mausole, Van Gogh's Asylum
8. Exploring the Gardens
9. The Cloisters
10. Outer Courtyard
11. Van Gogh's Bedroom
12. The Starry Night
13. Van Gogh's Diagnosis
14. The Death of Vincent Van Gogh
15. A Meadow in the Mountains
16. Les Antiques

About Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Van Gogh Walking Tour

This guided walking tour will lead you from the centre of Saint-Remy, along the Route de Van Gogh, and through the Monastery Saint-Paul de Mausole. After exploring the asylum, we will make a short stop outside the Roman ruins, ‘Les Antiques,’ that lie on the outskirts of Saint-Remy. Inside the asylum and the surrounding countryside, we will discover the places that shaped his creativity and immerse ourselves in the beauty that captivated him. Leave yourself at least a half-day to explore the city, take things at your own pace and dive into hidden corners you discover for yourself. If you want to make a whole day out, consider visiting the Roman city of Glanum and treat yourself to a wonderful dinner in town.

History of Saint Remy

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is located in the Alpilles region. The name “Alpilles” is derived from the Latin word “alpilulae,” meaning “small Alps,” due to its resemblance to the larger Alps mountain range.

Despite being in the middle of France, the area has some of Europe’s most well-preserved Roman ruins. During the 2nd century BC, the Romans established a settlement near Saint-Rémy, known as Glanum. This important Roman city flourished for centuries and boasted some of the most impressive architecture, including huge temples, a large forum, a theatre, and lavish houses. 

Following the decline of the Roman Empire, Saint-Rémy entered a period of relative obscurity. The town underwent a series of transformations and changed hands multiple times between feudal lords. In the 9th century, a Benedictine monastery was established in the town, and its influence grew over time.

Over the years, the town became a center of artistic activity, attracting writers, painters, and great thinkers. In the 16th century, French astrologer and physician Nostradamus wrote his book “Les Prophéties,” which contains cryptic prophecies about future events. Nostradamus was born in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in 1503 and spent time studying medicine and astrology in the region. But no one person left a more indelible mark on the city than Vincent Van Gogh.

The Life of Vincent Van Gogh

Vincent van Gogh was born on March 30, 1853, in Groot-Zundert, Netherlands. Van Gogh was born into a deeply religious family. His father, Theodorus van Gogh, was a Protestant minister. But it was on his mother’s side where the artistic part of his mind came was born. His mother, Anna Carbentus, came from a family of bookbinders and art dealers. At the age of 16, Vincent began working for his uncle’s art dealership, which sparked his interest in art and the world of visual expression. But despite this, his early career path remained focused on the ministry. He attended a theology school in Amsterdam in 1877, intending to become a pastor like his father and grandfather.

Vincent’s Religious Upbringing

However, Vincent’s time as a pastor was short-lived and ultimately unsuccessful. His deeply empathetic and passionate nature often clashed with church practice’s more rigid and formal aspects. He also faced personal challenges and mental health issues, leading to his dismissal as a pastor after a brief stint in a rural congregation in Belgium. When he returned home, his father wanted to send Vincent to a lunatic asylum.

Vincent’s Mental Health Struggles Begin

Throughout his life, Van Gogh faced numerous mental health challenges that affected his ability to maintain stability and find contentment. He experienced periods of intense anxiety, depression, and emotional turmoil. These mental health struggles manifested in episodes of erratic behaviour and led to strained relationships with family, friends, and even fellow artists. But one relationship remained stronger than all the others, and this was with his brother Theo. Theo has seen a few of Vincent’s charcoal drawings he has been making while in Belgium. They were studies of the people and scenes around him. Theo immediately saw what others did not, and it was at his insistence and aid that Vincent was spared the madhouse and instead began his study and pursuit of a career in the arts.

Vincent & Theo

Theo van Gogh played a crucial role in Vincent’s personal and professional life. He was six years younger than Vincent, and while Vincent worked as a preacher, Theo embarked on a career as an art dealer. With an eye for talented artists, Theo was able to recognize Vincent’s talent immediately. He began supporting Vincent both emotionally and financially. And would continue to do so until the end of his life. Theo believed in Vincent’s artistic potential when few others did. And if it were not for Theo’s financial assistance and encouragement throughout his career, there is no doubt in my mind that Vincent would never have become one of the most famous artists of the 19th and 20th centuries.

The written correspondence between Vincent and Theo forms a rich tapestry of their relationship. They exchanged hundreds of letters, offering insights into their thoughts, struggles, and artistic aspirations. The letters reveal Vincent’s emotional vulnerability, challenges, and unwavering commitment to art. Theo, in turn, provided continuous emotional support, advice, and feedback on Vincent’s work. They were more than brothers, more than family, they were truly each other’s soulmates.

Van Gogh in Provence

In 1888, Van Gogh moved to Arles in southern France to seek inspiration and refuge. Here, he produced some of his most iconic works, including The Sunflowers and Café Terrace at Night. However, his time in Arles was also marked by increased mental instability, leading to conflicts with others, including his friend and fellow artist Paul Gauguin. Following a heated argument with Gauguin, Van Gogh infamously severed a portion of his earlobe. He was sent to the local hospital after being found in a pool of blood inside his apartment.

Even after returning to his home from the hospital, Vincent confided in his brother that he was still suffering from hallucinations and delusions of poisoning. On the insistence of both his brothers and physician Félix Rey, Vincent voluntarily admitted himself to the asylum of Saint-Paul de Mausole in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in May 1889.

Start Your Walking Tour: Place Jules Pelissier

We now begin our walk. In the centre of Saint-Remy, Vincent would have arrived to make his way to Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum. Standing in the Place Jules Pelissier, the town’s central square, take a moment to soak in the atmosphere. Look around and admire the historic buildings surrounding you. On the west side of the square, look up and see the towering spire of the Saint-Martin Collegiate Church. This spire was one of the few things Van Gogh could see from his bedroom in the asylum. And it is one of the most iconic elements of his renowned painting, The Starry Night.

One can imagine how lonely Van Gogh must have felt. He would have been so close to the centre of town, and yet he was confined to the grounds of an asylum. On any day of the week, this square is filled with people having lively conversations outside on the terraces. He probably could have heard the noise from the square travel across the fields into the window sill where he painted. Van Gogh loved going out during his time in Arles. And he must have longed for those long nights outside the cafes. 

Walking the Van Gogh Art Route

As you turn south down Rue de la Commune, you are approaching the start of the Van Gogh Route. This is a self-guided walk towards the Monastery of Saint-Paul de Mausole. Along the way, there are 19 signs reproducing Van Gogh’s most emblematic paintings. A short quote from one of Van Gogh’s letters accompanies each image. And while I think trying to contextualize these paintings is so important, much remains to be discovered and discussed. So I hope this article is a great accompaniment. The walk is marked by these small golden emblems on the ground that bare Van Gogh’s iconic signature.

Place Mireille

Standing at the apex of the Place Mireille, you can look down the roads to put yourself at the very spot where Van Gogh painted a scene entitled The Road Menders. In this artwork, Van Gogh captures several figures engaged in manual labour, working along this very road. A road which now bears his name in his honour.

The Road Menders

In his paintings, Van Gogh often depicted scenes of everyday life and the toils of the working class. In The Road Mender, he highlights the dignity and significance of ordinary people and their contributions to society. Compared to Van Gogh’s paintings in Arles, you can see how the colours in this palette are much more muted. Although the brushwork still conveys that classical Van Gogh-ian sense of energy and emotion, the piece has a tone of sadness. Like he is looking into the lives of these everyday Provencal men and women but cannot connect with them, simply paint them from afar.

Canal des Alpines

Continuing along, we can see a large cypress tree on the right side of the road as we cross the Canal Des Alpines. This is just one of many Cypress trees found all over Saint-Remy, which deeply inspired Van Gogh’s oeuvre. 

Van Gogh’s Cypress Trees

Cypress trees hold significant importance and symbolism in the works of Vincent van Gogh. And he painted an entire series dedicated to them during his stay in Saint-Remy. Cypress trees have long been associated with notions of immortality and eternity. The tall and slender form of the cypress tree, reaching upward into the sky, is reminiscent of a natural cathedral spire. Van Gogh often used the cypress tree to symbolize the divine and the connection between the earthly and the spiritual realms. As if the tree, just like himself, were trying to reach out, away from the pains of this mortal realm, into eternal and transcendental peace.

While at the asylum of Saint-Paul de Mausole, he could look out his window every day to gaze upon the cypress trees spread out across the Provencal countryside. When he was allowed to leave the ground and paint en-plein air, these were some of the closest fields where he could come to study and sketch the cypress trees. So this very tree might have been one of the many that Van Gogh painted.

Almond Blossoms

Just past the canal crossing, on the right side of the road, we can see far-reaching fields of almond trees. These iconic trees were etched into the history book in Vicent van Gogh’s painting Almond Blossoms. Van Gogh painted Almond Blossoms as a gift for his brother Theo upon the arrival of his firstborn son. Although Vincent was no doubt worried about how the little child would impact Theo’s ability to support Vincent financially, the love he had for his brother was immense. And therefore, for his new nephew as well.

“I started right away to make a picture for him, to hang in their bedroom, branches of white almond blossom against a blue sky.”

Vincent

He wanted to create a painting that was intended to commemorate the joy and hope associated with the arrival of a new life into the family. Almond blossoms begin to bud at the beginning of Spring. And therefore, they have long been associated with hope and rebirth. Van Gogh’s use of this floral motif suggests a sense of renewal and new beginnings. Perhaps a hope for a renewal in himself as well as for the new baby for Theo.

The delicate blossoms against the vibrant blue sky can be seen as a reflection of Van Gogh’s longing for peace, serenity, and emotional harmony. The upward-reaching branches and the ethereal quality of the blossoms evoke a sense of spirituality. As if these blooms are not placed within our mortal realm but instead up in the heavens.

Influence of Japanese Art

Van Gogh was greatly influenced by Japanese art, particularly ukiyo-e prints. He admired Japanese woodblock prints’ stylized and decorative qualities. Their flattened perspective and stark, bold outlines. In Almond Blossom, Van Gogh employed bold, dark outlines around the blossoms and branches, reminiscent of the black outlines found in Japanese woodblock prints. The bright blue sky against the delicate white blossoms also creates a striking visual effect.

The Colors of Provence

Continuing along Avenue Vincent Van Gogh, take a moment to look around you as you walk, to soak up all the colours of Provence. Van Gogh’s artistic style underwent a significant transformation during his time in Provence and in Saint-Remy. The vivid landscapes and unique light of the area greatly influenced him. As you walk, see what you can find that is reminiscent of Van Gogh’s Provencal colour palette, characterized by bold, deep, and intense colours. You might spot vibrantly painted window shutters and rainbows of flowers blooming along the road. The radiant yellows of the sunflowers and wheat fields dominated the Provençal countryside. And, of course, the bright blue skies above you.

Van Gogh’s Olive Grove

Turn left down Avenue Dr. Edgar Leroy towards Saint-Paul de Mausole. Although this route takes us away from the main road, this detour provides beautiful views across the Alpilles Valley. Further away from houses, you can see far out across the landscape of Provence. 

Along the road, we pass a series of olive groves, which were the subject of dozens of variations painted by Van Gogh. I think Olive Trees are one of his best series. Exemplified in these paintings is his emblematic expressive brushwork. The textural strokes capture the energy and movement of the foliage and the terrain. As if we can feel the breeze through the trees in the painting itself. But walking along this road, try to close your eyes and feel for yourself that movement in the wind that Van Gogh captures, like magic in a bottle.

Olive trees are also frequently associated with the idea of peace. In Roman times, athletes and emperors were awarded olive wreaths as a symbol of peace and honour. And in Christian art, the dove carrying an olive branch is often depicted as a symbol of peace, representing the reconciliation between God and humanity after the Great Flood. Van Gogh’s obsession with these trees was not just because they were what was available for him to paint. But due to his deep desire for tranquillity in his mind.

Saint-Paul de Mausole, Van Gogh’s Asylum

A short walk from the Avenue Dr. Edgar Leroy, make the first right to walk along the thick outer stone walls of the Saint-Paul de Mausole. Take note of how high and imposing these walls are. Ensuring all those inside cannot get out or even see the countryside around them. And although Vincent was given special permission to occasionally venture outside these walls, for the most part, he spent the last months of his life only within the confines of the asylum.

Hours and Admission

Hours: Open seven days a week, from 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. in the summer, with earlier closings in the winter. Admission: Adults 7€ | Student, Teens (12-16) and Seniors 5€ | Children under 12 are free

History of Saint-Paul de Mausole

In the 11th century, a Romanesque monastery was built on this site. The name “Mausole” is derived from the Latin word “mausoleum.” It was given this name as its location was a mere few meters from the ancient Roman mausoleum, just outside the ruins of Glanum. The monastery flourished for several centuries, serving as a religious center for monks and pilgrims.

In the 19th century, the monastery underwent a significant transformation. In 1815, the religious order left, and the building was repurposed as a psychiatric institution. It became an asylum known as the “Asile de Saint-Paul,” catering to individuals with severe mental health conditions. The tranquil surroundings and therapeutic environment sought to offer patients a place of refuge and treatment. But treatment for mental health conditions in the 19th century left much to be desired. And for many, treatments were little more than a restrictive diet and twice daily baths.

Van Gogh in Saint-Paul de Mausole

Although Vincent voluntarily admitted himself into the hospital, his stay there relied heavily on his brother Theo’s assistance. Vincent received not one but two private rooms. One of which Vincent could use as his studio. A luxury no other patients were given.

When he first arrived, he was hopeful and spoke positively about his experience. “I feel happier here with my work than I could be outside. By staying here a long time, I shall have learned regular habits, and in the long run, the result will be more order in my life.” Much of this early progress was made simply due to the fact that the doctors here at Saint-Remy forced Van Gogh to stop many of his harmful vices. Van Gogh was not only an alcoholic, but his eating habits and overconsumption of coffee all negatively impacted his mental health conditions.

Exploring the Gardens

When Vincent was first admitted, he couldn’t leave the ground until the doctors and nurses deemed him fit enough to do so. During these first few months, Van Gogh painted only what he found within the gardens surrounding the Monastery. He looked closely at everything around him, finding peace in those quiet little moments and vignettes that proliferated the gardens.

Entering through the front gates, you step into the asylum’s tranquil gardens, left almost exactly as they would have been when Van Gogh stayed here. Lining the outer walls of the asylum are beautiful garden beds. Vines crawl up the stone walls to disguise their prison-like intentions. Van Gogh vividly describes the gardens for us in a letter to Theo;

A view of the garden of the asylum where I am, on the right a gray terrace, a section the house, some rosebushes that have lost their flowers; on the left, the earth of the garden – red ochre – earth burnt by the sun, covered in fallen pine twigs. This edge of the garden is planted with large pines with red ochre trunks and branches, with green foliage saddened by a mixture of black. These tall trees stand out against an evening sky streaked with violet against a yellow background. High up, the yellow turns to pink, turns to green. Under the trees, empty stone benches, dark box. The sky is reflected yellow in a puddle after the rain.

Vincent Van Gogh

Irises

The very first painting that Van Gogh endeavoured to paint was that of the garden’s irises. Van Gogh captures these flowers in different stages of their blooms. Some almost appear to be falling to the ground under the weight of their petals. This painting was one of Van Gogh’s studies, meaning he painted it directly from life without sketching it first. There was some calm he found in these intricate studies. Like he was immersing himself into the world of the painting, leaving his darkened world behind him.

Lilacs

A stark contrast to his almost realistic portrayal of the Irises is Van Gogh’s painting of the Lilacs. You can even see the purple irises in the background of the painting, but their forms are almost abstract. Nothing more than a few swashes of painting. Through Lilacs, we can see Van Gogh’s absolute dynamism in his vivid energy and dramatic expression he communicates to us through his brushstrokes. He pushes the boundaries of impressionism and creates his own post-impressionist style.

When you receive the canvases that I have done in the garden, you will see that I am not too melancholy here.

Vincent Van Gogh

Corner of Saint-Paul Hospital

While Van Gogh was trying to let give his brother hope that his stay here at the asylum was helping him rid himself of the sadness he felt in Arles, there was no doubt that this place still felt like a prison. He felt trapped inside, literally and figuratively both inside the walls of the asylum and inside the prison of his troubled mind.

“You’ll understand that this combination of red ochre, of green saddened with grey, of black lines that define the outlines, this gives rise a little to the feeling of anxiety from which some of my companions in misfortune often suffer, and which is called ‘seeing red’.”

Vincent Van Gogh

Romanesque Chapel

The entrance to the old Romanesque stone chapel is beside the entrance to the asylum. The chapel is as silent as silence can be. The huge stone arches frame the cold stone walls in the darkness. The only light being emitted from the stained glass windows and the entry door. Modern-day lighting has been added to the ceiling to give the visitor a better view of the 11th-century architecture. Van Gogh would have been encouraged, perhaps even forced, to come here for prayer, as this was still thought to be a method of curing their mental illnesses. 

But for Vincent, his relationship with religion was complex. And it continued to evolve throughout his life. Although he was raised in a religious family, his failure to become a pastor and his disillusionment with the church as an institution deeply wounded him. While Van Gogh distanced himself from traditional religious institutions, he continued to engage with religious themes in his art. 

The Pietà

But during Vincent’s time at the asylum, especially when he could not even go outside after his episodes, he found solace and inspiration in biblical stories. And he developed a more personal and reflective view of his spirituality. During moments of despair and loneliness, he believed his art was a spiritual expression and a means to connect with a higher power. When he could not make art of his own, he began making copies of some famous paintings, most of which were religious. He told his brother;

“I started making them inadvertently and now find that I can learn from them and that they give me a kind of comfort. My brush then moves through my fingers like a bow over the strings of a violin – completely for my pleasure.”

Van Gogh made the Pietà from a lithograph of Delacroix’s painting. While the composition of the subject remains the same, Van Gogh’s brought his stylistic approach to the brushwork. The Pietà depicts the Virgin Mary cradling the dead body of Jesus Christ after his crucifixion. The word “Pietà” comes from the Italian word for “pity” or “compassion,” and the theme is one of deep sorrow and mourning. It is impossible not to see the connection for Van Gogh in this work of art. A man desperate for compassion, for understanding, and to be held by a woman. Most of the women in Van Gogh’s were sources of pain and rejection. And yet here we see a woman who is the epitome of acceptance.

Vestibule in the Asylum

Stepping inside the main building, take a minute to walk inside and turn back towards the entry door. This view was captured almost precisely as we see it today by Van Gogh during his stay. Van Gogh hated the living condition here. He described the experience to his brother;

“There is someone here who has been shouting and talking like me all the time for a fortnight. He thinks he hears voices and words in the echoes of the corridors, probably because the auditory nerve is diseased and over-sensitive, and in my case, it was both sight and hearing at the same time, which is usual at the onset of epilepsy, according to what Dr. Félix Rey said one day.”

Especially when compared to the actual view of the hallways, one can really appreciate how his painting displays the profound solitude he felt there. The walls seem to fold in upon themselves. Not a single person can be seen, yet tension is in the air as if we can hear that invisible man screaming from afar.

The Cloisters

Proceed inside the main building, towards the interior cloisters. Cloisters are covered walkways, usually surrounding a courtyard or garden. Cloisters are a distinctive architecture in monasteries built in the 11th century. Today, you can still wander around the cloisters to experience the tranquil space Van Gogh himself would have experienced during his daily walks.

From inside the cloisters, look up at the second-floor windows. It was from here that Van Gogh would have looked down on the gardens on days when he was too ill to go outside.

Outer Courtyard

Before heading upstairs to Van Gogh’s bedroom, walk through the gift shop towards the outer courtyard. Rows and rows of lavender bloom here in the summer and the fields are packed with poppies, irises and roses in the spring.

View of the Asylum and Chapel of Saint-Rémy

As indicated by several letters to Theo, Van Gogh spent the autumn painting in the courtyard. One of the most important paintings he made here was View of the Asylum and Chapel of Saint-Rémy. It is the only painting Vincent made of the entirety of the asylum, not just its gardens or interior walls.

Unlike some paintings he painted indoors from sketches he made outside, this one was painting en-plein air. Standing right here in the lush green space. The colour palette of this painting is very different than his vibrant paintings. The colours are muted, with hues of green infiltrating the rest o of the colours. This was due to the fact that Van Gogh was attempting to capture the changing light outside in the autumn. It was something he was obsessed with—the ability to freeze time and capture a moment in paint.

Van Gogh’s Bedroom

Walking upstairs, we step onto the second floor. It was here where the patient’s bedrooms were held. Inside a room facing out onto the back courtyard, we find the very room where Van Gogh once resided. The room has been meticulously restored to resemble how it appeared during Van Gogh’s stay. The only difference was that Van Gogh was not allowed to paint in the bedroom. Instead, he would have had to go to his studio to do any painting. But the studio and bedroom set up have been combined in this recreation.

Observe the simple furniture and the worn floor. But most important, take your time to gaze out the east-facing window. The bars of which were a prison cell for Van Gogh. He would have been inspired to sketch the painting The Starry Night from this window.

This morning, I saw the countryside from my window a long time before sunrise with nothing but the morning star, which looked very big.

Vincent Van Gogh

The Starry Night

The Starry Night depicts a small village with houses and a church steeple nestled beneath a swirling sky filled with luminous stars. Van Gogh painted this same scene numerous times. But this is the only version of the painting set at night. While the paintings during the day capture the scene accurately, the version at night takes on a more dramatic and expressive tone. Van Gogh takes more risks, changing the scenery to fit his vision. Although historians can date the painting and know that the moon was a waxing gibbous moon on this night, Vincent paints it as a crescent moon.

Although the idea of changing elements of a landscape to suit the intention of the painting better seems like an obvious choice, it was one Van Gogh struggled with. While living with Gaugin, Gaughin frequently encouraged Vincent to delve more into abstraction. But Van Gogh was so focused on painting precisely what he saw. And yet here we see him break away from reality and reach for the stars…literally.

The swirling sky, filled with vibrant stars, seems to move before your eyes. The vivid colours contrast against the night sky. The intense movement and whirling patterns convey a sense of chaos, yet they also evoke a feeling of transcendent beauty and spiritual depth. The stars, in particular, have been interpreted as symbols of hope. They are aspirations beyond the earthly realm. And those iconic cypress trees serve as a bridge from reality towards the celestial domains. It is as if Vincent is trying to paint his way out of his dark existence.

Van Gogh’s Diagnosis

While in Saint-Rémy, Van Gogh’s mental health continued to fluctuate. He experienced both periods of intense creativity and moments of utter despair. During his stay, Van Gogh suffered four serious “attacks” as they were described by the doctors. These were painful and distressing for Van Gogh and his brother Theo. The attack was followed by a period of deep depression in which Van Gogh didn’t paint at all. Then, after some time, Vincent’s creativity and drive would return, and he would resume paintings.

So what did Van Gogh suffer from? This question has enraptured the minds of psychiatrists from around the world for ages. And the truth is that we will never know without these doctors being able to speak directly to the man himself. But many surmise that Van Gogh suffered from manic-depressive psychosis, worsened by his epileptic fits. Epilepsy was prevalent on his mother’s side, and as it is a hereditary disease, this connection makes sense. These attacks were brought on by triggering events in Van Gogh’s life. 

At Eternity’s Gate

One of the most intensive paintings done in Saint Remy was his painting entitled At Eternity’s Gate. Vincent had made this sketch of a pensioner and war veteran in 1882, and while recovering from one of his intensive attacks, he began painting this sorrowful scene. And yet, even in the darkest moments, we have the reference to eternity. As if Van Gogh himself is still clinging to his faith to see himself through this period of darkness.

Portrait of a patient

Though here there are some patients very seriously ill, the fear and horror of madness that I used to have has already lessened a great deal. And though here you continually hear terrible cries and howls like beasts in a menagerie, in spite of that, people get to know each other very well and help each other when their attacks come on.

Vincent Van Gogh

Prisoners’ Round (after Gustave Doré)

Another painting that seems to evoke the internal nature of Van Gogh’s mind during his time in Saint-Remy was Prisoners’ Round. This painting is another copy he made after a print by Gustave Doré. The scene depicts a group of prisoners walking around in a circle in the exercise yard at Newgate Prison. The scene is dark, damp and almost claustrophobic. The walls seem to cave in upon the prisoners below.

The man in the group’s centre is placed at the forefront of the image; his head turned slightly towards us, the viewer. This man is also the only one now wearing a cap on his head, showing off his strawberry blonde hair, the same as Vincent himself. Vincent is placing himself in a literal prison, as no doubt this is how he felt inside the asylum and the torment of his mind. And yet even in the darkest recesses of the world, there is hope. Small and delicate but present. And we can see this by looking closely at the two white butterflies soaring high above the prisoners below. As if they are on their way out, escaping this dark world and flying toward the sun.

The Funeral of Van Gogh

When Van Gogh died, only two months after leaving the asylum, this was one of the paintings that Theo chose to be placed next to his coffin. Painter Émile Bernard came to Vincent’s funeral. When he saw this painting, he wrote,

Convicts walking in a circle surrounded by high prison walls, a canvas inspired by Doré of a terrifying ferocity and which is also symbolic of his end. Wasn’t life like that for him, a high prison like this with such high walls – so high? And these people walking endlessly round this pit, weren’t they the poor artists, the poor damned souls walking past under the whip of Destiny?

Émile Bernard

Road with Cypress and Star 

I want to end this tour, in the treatment room, just opposite Van Gogh’s bedroom. Here, Vincent would take his twice-daily baths, the only “treatment” the doctor gave him to cure his illness. A therapy that no doubt made little to no difference. Instead, he was left abandoned by the very people, the doctors and nurses, who he so desperately had hoped would cure him of his disease. And there must have been no worse feeling than the hopelessness that that abandonment would have caused. More than anything, I think Vincent was very lonely and needed companionship. His search for romantic love in his life has been utterly heartbreaking. And the real true love of his life had always been his brother. To be closer to him, Vincent decided to check himself out of the hospital and move to the small town of Auvers-sur-Oise near Paris (where Theo lived.) 

The Obelisk of Death

Vincent’s last painting while in Saint-Remy is this scene entitled Road with Cypress and Star. This vertical landscape depicts a winding road centred by a deep, dark cypress tree. Many call this an “obelisk of death,” as if Van Gogh knew he was to die.

Behind the tree is a vast expanse of yellow wheat fields and blue mountains. The night sky dominates the upper part of the canvas, with a bright yellow star shining brilliantly above the cypress tree on the left and a vibrating crescent moon to the right. The sky is painted in swirling, turbulent patterns. But it is the bottom of the painting that we will focus upon. In the sea of churning grass are a pair of travellers, walking almost arm in arm. The two men are walking towards the tremendous black cypress tree. Their heads held high, unafraid, looking up towards the beautiful eternal sky above them. Beauty surrounds them in the face of great darkness.

The Death of Vincent Van Gogh

When Van Gogh arrived in Auvers-sur-Oise, he was placed under the care of Dr. Paul Gachet. Despite receiving some medical attention, his mental health continued to decline. And on July 27, 1890, at the age of 37, Van Gogh tragically took his own life by shooting himself in the chest. He passed away two days later, with his brother Theo by his side. 

Devastated at the loss of his brother and suffering from syphilis, Theo died only a year later. They were buried together, side by side, in the town cemetery of Auvers-sur-Oise. Ivy was planted on top of their graves. And today, the vines have grown together, clutching each other, forming one large mass. Emblematic of the connection these two brothers had for one and one in their lifetime. And now for eternity.

Leaving the Asylum

We now take our time to leave the Saint-Paul Asylum, walking back through the gardens and out onto VC des Carrieres road. As you walk back through the gardens, we walk the same path that Vincent would have taken upon his departure. One of Vincent’s last letters to Theo from Saint-Remy spoke enthusiastically of his health and creative endeavours.

At the moment the improvement is continuing, the whole horrible crisis has disappeared like a thunderstorm, and I’m working here with calm, unremitting ardour to give a last stroke of the brush. I’m working on a canvas of roses on bright green background and two canvases of large bouquets of violet Irises, one lot against a pink background in which the effect is harmonious and soft through the combination of greens, pinks, violets. On the contrary, the other violet bouquet (ranging up to pure carmine and Prussian blue) standing out against a striking lemon yellow background with other yellow tones in the vase and the base on which it rests is an effect of terribly disparate complementaries that reinforce each other by their opposition.

Vincent Van Gogh

A Meadow in the Mountains

Exiting through the main gates of the asylum, we turn to the left to walk down the small path that leads into the Parc D’Amour. This beautiful park is where Vincent Van Gogh would come to paint the mountains. In his painting, A Meadow in the Mountains: Le Mas de Saint-Paul, we can see a vast meadow surrounded by rolling hills and mountains in the background. The same mountains we can see spread out in front of our eyes.

The hills in this background play a significant role in this painting. They represent a sense of permanence, stability, and grandeur. Something that we know Vincent was profoundly searching for in his life. A state of tranquillity, enduring, just like nature itself. Their pale blue colour contrasts with the dynamic nature of the vibrant yellow and green meadow below. Walking along this path, you can take in the calm surrounding this valley. The sound of the wind rushing through the tall grass is the only sound that casts itself down on the ground in the sun-soaked afternoon.

Les Antiques

Walking through the park, towards the west side where the D5 roadway now passes, we can hope across the road to see the ruins of Glanum. Just outside a car park stands the great Antiques of ancient Rome. “Les Antiques” refers to these two Roman monuments that once stood on the outskirts of Glanum. The grandest of the two structures is the Triumphal Arch of Glanum. It was erected in the 1st century BCE to commemorate the military victories of the Roman Empire. This arch would have served as the entrance gate to Glanum. The arch is adorned with intricate carvings, including images of military generals and their prisoners. All across the arch are beautiful carvings of the Provencal harvest. We can see grapes, olives, stone fruits and even chestnuts. These agricultural symbols were a means for Rome to display the wealth of their land to any visitors. 

Mausoleum of the Julii

The tallest of the two structures is the Mausoleum of the Julii. The name of the 11th-century abbey, Monastery of Saint-Paul de Mausole, refers to this very Mausole or Mausoleum. When the Benedictine abbey was built in the 11th century, this site was still as important to the people of Provence as it is today. Although Vincent never painted these Antiquities, he would have no doubt visited these sites frequently as they were so close to the abbey. The Mausoleum of the Julii, also known as the “Tomb of the Julii,” dates back to the 1st century BCE. It was built to house the tombs of the mother and father of the three Julii brothers.

The father was a military general, and Julii was one of the most distinguished families in Rome. Carved into the tombs are a series of acanthus leaves, representing eternal rebirth to the ancient Romans. As a man obsessed with eternity, one can imagine how this structure would have greatly captured the imagination of the great artist. Perhaps inspiring Van Gogh to continue his search for the hereafter in the symbolism he painted into his masterpieces.

I hope you have enjoyed this extraordinary journey into the tumultuous yet brilliant artistic world of Vincent van Gogh. As you wander through the charming streets that once captivated the tormented artist, you can’t help but feel a sense of reverence for his resilience and creativity amidst personal struggles. I hope that you come away from Saint-Remy with a deeper understanding of this masterful painter, and maybe seeing this magnificent part of Provence will ignite your own artistic journey!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in the Footsteps of Van Gogh first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Although the area doesn’t have the draw of big tourist attractions like the Historic Centre, this is the place to come to see everyday life. A walk around this incredible neighbourhood with its gorgeous architecture, peaceful atmosphere and fantastic art and culture makes it even more extraordinary than the tourist centre! There is something so earnest about this place. So real and yet fantastically romantic. So while it might not jump out at you as a place you “need to visit,” I would absolutely say you do!

Outside of the busy market on Saturday, this neighbourhood feels almost untouched by time. Walking down the little side street and just letting curiosity lead you will bring you to the most incredible destinations. But if you’re looking for a guide to the best of what to see and do here in San Ángel, I’ve got you covered!

Table Of Contents

1. Location & Access
2. History
3. Walking Tour
4. Parque de la Bombilla
5. Restaurante El Cardenal
6. Mercado De Flores
7. Templo del Carmen de San Ángel
8. Museo de El Carmen
9. Plaza del Carmen
10. San Angel Art Market
11. Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga
12. Bishop's House 
13. Plaza San Jacinto
14. Saturday Art Market
15. Handicraft Shops
16. Museo Casa del Risco
17. Antiques Fair
18. Bazaar Sábado
19. Villa San Jacinto
20. Parroquia San Jacinto
21. Plaza de Los Cielos
22. Plaza de los Arcángeles
23. Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada
24. Casa Blanca
25. Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
26. San Angel Inn

Location & Access

San Ángel is located south of Mexico City, just west of the popular Coyoacán district. Pairing a visit to San Ángel with a trip to Coyoacán is the perfect way to spend an entire day. Away from the crowded city centre and up above all the hustle and bustle. I would advise getting up nice and early for your visit to San Ángel. Nothing starts the day better than brunch at restaurant El Cardenal. Plus an early start means you can get the most out of your day.

Uber

The best way to get to San Ángel is via Uber. Anywhere from the centre of the city, outside busy times of the day, it will only take about 25-30 minutes to arrive here. And generally, a ride will cost around $7 USD. Our first stop on the walking tour is in the beautiful Parque de la Bombilla, so you can put that down as your routed destination.

Metro

If you prefer to take the metro, you can arrive at Miguel Ángel de Quevedo Station. It is only a 10-minute walk from the station to our tour starting point. All metro stations in Mexico City have a different icon corresponding to their station. This was initially conceptualized to ensure that illiterate people could identify the other stations on a map.

The icon for Miguel Ángel de Quevedo is a large fruit tree. Miguel Ángel de Quevedo was a famous Mexican engineer who studied Mexican flora. He was nicked named the “tree apostle,” hence the station’s icon. But also considering this area was once rich with orchards, it also seems fitting. Just a little hint at the colonia’s history right from the get-go!

History

The neighbourhood, which is now San Ángel, was initially one of the wealthiest agricultural plots in ancient Tenochtitlan. Tenochtitlan was the capital of the great Aztec empire. Here there was an abundant source of water from the nearby Magdalena River. The area was called Tenanitla, or “walled in place,” in the Nahuatl language. The name was inspired by the volcanic rock bed that surrounded the area. It is also called Pedregal, formed by the eruption of the Xitle Volcano two thousand years ago. The volcanic bed formed a kind of wall around the land which helped retain the water from the river.

The Monasteries

When the Spanish invaded, they took the land in San Ángel for their own. It was here they established a series of monasteries. The most important of which was the San Jacinto monastery, which gave the area its first Spanish name; San Jacinto Tenanitla.

The next monastery to be built was the El Carmen monastery, built by the Carmelites in 1597. Inside the monastery, the monks opened a small school. But most of the land surrounding the church was used to plant a large expanse of orchards. The orchards flourished due to fertile soil and access to water. At one time, there were over 13,000 trees that sprouted up around the community. The school and orchards were named after San Ángel Mártir, the first members of the Order of Carmel. People would marvel at the orchards and their harvest would bring in a lot of money to the order and the area. The popularity was such that eventually, people would simply refer to the neighbourhood as San Ángel. And soon that become the de facto name for the area.

San Angel as Retreat

In the 18th century, wealthy farming families began to seek larger plots of land outside of the city center. These families began to build some of the most spectacular mansions. Many still stand today as exemplary models of 18th-century architecture in Mexico City.

In the 19th century, the orchards and many of the religious institutions of San Ángel were destroyed in the Mexican-American War. The remainder of the farming lands and orchards were removed to make room for the expanding railway system in 1891. This left the area barren of all its agricultural potential which had once defined the barrio. While the city centre was building industrial factories, San Ángel remained untouched by progress and left as a relatively rural suburb. But it was just peace and quiet that, in the 1940s made it a popular country retreat for wealthy Mexican families. These families continued to preserve the historic homes they found. And kept the area as this precious gem that we can visit today!

Walking Tour

Your experience in San Ángel will be defined by the day of the week you choose to visit. If you come to San Ángel on the weekend, especially on Saturday for the Art Market, the streets are bursting with people. Car surge into this part of town, as locals love to come here on the weekend in droves. It’s not just for the tourists, in fact, I would say the locals outweigh tourists three to one. But outside of the weekend, San Ángel is a tranquil oasis. And you’ll find you often have parts of the city all to yourself. But the peace means you’ll have to skip the popular pop-up art market. Either way, there are so many things to do here, no matter when you arrive. The only day I’d say to avoid is Mondays as all the museums are closed.

Parque de la Bombilla

The best place to start your tour of the neighbourhood is in San Ángel’s grandiose Parque de la Bombilla. Mexico City is, in my opinion, the best city in the world for public parks. Each of them brings a new surprise. Filled with beauty, drama and artistry. And Parque de La Bombilla is one that I feel doesn’t get its fair due. In the centre of the park is a giant monument to Álvaro Obregón. Álvaro Obregón was the 46th president of Mexico, inaugurated in 1920. Sadly, Obregón was assassinated in 1928 inside La Bombilla restaurant, which once stood on this very spot. After his death, the restaurant was demolished to make room for a park built in his honour. The park’s unveiling took place in 1935, on the seventh anniversary of Obregón’s assassination.

The Obregón monument dominates the park. Towering over you like a lighthouse, drawing you in. A huge reflecting pool sits just in front, allowing the sun to cast its reflection down into the water, creating a mirror-like surface. In addition to the central monument, the park also boasts seven beautiful fountains, artistic garden beds and even various chess and checkers tables awaiting their daily players.

Socialist style architecture

The Obregón Monument is a socialist-style tower. Socialist-style architecture became somewhat of a trend in Mexico City in the early 20th century. Mexico was encouraged by the Russian Revolution of 1917. They admired how the shift was leaning towards the boots on the ground workers and peasants while rejecting the bourgeoisie and upper classes. As such, they were inspired by the architecture of the Soviet Union under the leadership of Joseph Stalin. The style is characterized by rigid, geometric shapes, sturdy columns and giant statues. Often built to commemorate great leaders of the country.

Obregón Monument

The Obregón Monument greets you with two statues, guarding either side of the giant steel doorway. These are the indigenous protectors, representing “Work” and “Fertility.” The monument’s centre features a large stairwell that climbs to the top of the tower. Inside was once the resting place of Obregón’s embalmed arm. The arm was since moved, but today, a marble copy stands in its place.

On either side of the monument, are two groups of sculptures. One represents the Allegory of the Sacrifice, the other the Allegory of Triumph; two defining characteristics of Obregón’s presidency. On the back of the memorial is the sculpture of the great Eagle of Mexico City. Its wings spread in front of a series of geometric Saguaro cacti.

Restaurante El Cardenal

Hopefully, the bright colours of the park have woken you up a bit and now it’s time for breakfast! Take a stroll up along Avenue de la Paz. This street leads you right into the historic heart of San Ángel. Here you’ll shortly arrive at our breakfast spot, Restaurante El Cardenal. Restaurante El Cardenal is an institution in Mexico City with multiple different locations. The San Ángel location is their newest expansion, opening in 2011. But it quickly became the go-to destination on Saturday and Sunday mornings.

El Cardenal History

El Cardenal was founded in 1969, the original location was just across the street from the Plaza de la Constitución. The founders were a large family who wanted to bring their love of traditional Mexican cuisine to an upscale setting. They saw that many households didn’t have time to make classic home-cooked dishes. But here in El Cardenal you can come and feel like you’re dining at your mother’s table.

One of the most luxurious parts of dining inside El Cardenal in San Ángel is the gorgeous architecture. The restaurant is set inside an old colonial mansion. The building was actually previous another restaurant but when it closed the house lay dormant for years. When El Cardenal bought the property they took great pains to restore the details of the home to their former glory. The stained glass windows and gleaming wood floors make just sitting inside such a joy to experience. The back of the restaurant features a glass window box that looks into the kitchen, so you can watch the chefs hard at work!

The El Cardenal Experience

Their breakfasts are among the most popular seatings, with wait times up to 40 minutes depending on the day. So the earlier you arrive, the better. This is because huge families come here all together on the weekend for a cheerful family brunch. Despite the wait, this amazing familial atmosphere is what makes this restaurant so special. Walking inside, we were treated like absolute royalty. White-shirt waiters greeted us and catered to our every need. It felt like we were dining at a Michelin star restaurant but at a fraction of the cost! 

The Food

To start the perfect breakfast, begin with hot chocolate, not coffee! Their unique hot chocolate is made with famous Doña Oliva chocolate and is like drinking a cup of history. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico and was an essential part of the Aztec culture from 1400 AD.

My favourite part about the experience of eating here was the pastry tray. When you come inside a waiter brings you over an enormous tray of sweet pastries. And you can choose, with your own eyes, which pastry you’d want to start off the meal right with. I went with the concha as I feel like it’s the perfect pairing with a hot chocolate.

Another traditional breakfast dish you’ll only find in Mexico is the Egg omelette with escamoles. Escamoles are colloquially called “Mexican caviar,” and are edible ant larvae. Escamoles have been consumed in Mexico since the age of the Aztecs and are high in nutritional value. It’s definitely one of the most unique and classic dishes on the menu. But if that’s not your thing they have many other traditional options for those who aren’t that adventurous.

While you might take a look at this elegant restaurant would be pretty pricey, El Cardenal is such a good value. They really price themselves as a family restaurant. Although there were some tourists here it was clear that most people gather here every week. And with food as good and cheap as this, I know why they do!

Mercado De Flores

To work off some of the big breakfast, walk down the street and turn north up Avenue Revolución towards the famous San Ángel Flower Market. This market dates back to the time of the Carmelite friars. When they lived in the area, their church was surrounded by extensive gardens. Here they grew fruit trees and flowers in large quantities.

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Walking up to the market, you can spot it from down the street, not only by the iconic white awnings but also by the brightly painted murals along the exterior. Public murals like this were famous in markets like this around Mexico City. Vendors are packed tightly along the thin strip of the sidewalk facing the Avenida Revolucion. In their white plastic buckets are a wide array of vibrant flowers for locals to bring home to their sweethearts with a smile.

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Templo del Carmen de San Ángel

After peaking around at the flowers in the market, head back south along Avenue Revolución. Crossing Avenue de la Paz, lead yourself towards the large domes that dominate the skyline guiding you into the old Carmelite Church of San Ángel. 

Courtyard

While most people go directly to the Museum of El Carmen, checking out the church itself is more than worth your time. Even just walking through the old stone walls into the quaint courtyard gives you so many things to look at and ponder. The church courtyard is home to one of the most amazing jacaranda trees. Hidden behind the stone walls it feels like a treasure that we found was all to ourselves! It hangs heavy over the fountain in the centre of the stone yard. Its branches also frame the gorgeous tiled domes off in the background.

History of the St. Carmen Church of San Ángel

The church was originally built in 1615 by the Carmelite friar Andrés de San Miguel. It took over 10 years to complete, and when it opened it housed the order of the Barefoot Carmelites. It was originally opened as a monastery but they also built a college nearby. Here they welcomed theology students and new priests of the order. The church flourished for years and its orchards formed the bedrock of the colonial we find today. Bringing both money and interest to this part of town.

After the Mexican Reformation War of 1858, the new secular governmental powers closed down many Catholic churches and schools. The area around San Ángel was occupied by US troops who sadly destroyed many parts of the old buildings. As well as looting many of the church’s precious assets. They even went so far as to destroy the beloved orchards.

The old school building went on to serve as a prison, barracks and even the location of the local town council. Eventually, in 1921, the church school was transformed into a museum. It was here they sought to preserve the history of the building, the treasure found hidden within and the stories from the neighbourhood’s past. But the actual church itself has stood here, in almost the exact same state, for hundreds of years. And walking inside feels like stepping back in time.

Architecture

The design of the church was made in Herrerian style. Herrerian style rose in popularity in Spain during the 16th century and came to Mexico City with the Spanish colonizers. The style features a more restrained use of ornamentation compared to other baroque styles of the time. The shape of the building is designed to spread horizontally and symmetrically. And yet unlike many other Herrerian buildings which have flat or plain roofs, the St. Carmen de San Ángel church features three incredible tiled domes. Brilliant blue and yellow-painted tiles from Puebla still glisten in the sunlight although much of the roofs have fallen into disrepair over the ages.

Walking into the church, the restrained architecture that surrounds you highlights the incredible golden altar. Light frames the altar from either side creating the most ethereal glow. While the rest of the building might be simpler in design, the altarpiece is pure baroque. Drama, glamour and gilding are everything that the baroque era brought and we can see it here in leaps and spurts!

One of my favourite parts about the churches in Mexico is the tile work. Every little side chapel or tiny niche is given the royal treatment by plastering them with gorgeous tiles. These minature tiles look like shining gems when the sunlight hits them just right. While some are just decorative others are painted to tell stories about the saints in whose chapels they sit. These tiles truly make Mexican churches feel so unique and gives you a sense of place when visiting.

Museo de El Carmen

Just outside the entrance to the church, you can find the Museo de El Carmen. The old monastery school and cloisters were transformed into a museum in the 1920s. Inside, the museum houses various objects that detail the history of the Carmelite order. When you enter through the lower cloisters you’re greeted by a small series of panels detailing the complete history of the convent and school. Throughout the rest of the museum, these histories are brought to life through a series of paintings, documents, sculptures and even the furniture which was used inside the monastery.

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As well as detailing life in the monastery, these historical paintings also depict what life was like in San Ángel in the 18th and 19th centuries. It features an amazing collection of Colonial religious art. The baroque artist Cristóbal de Villalpando has many paintings here on display. He is most famous for his painting which now hangs in the Metropolitan Cathedral. But inside this more intimate museum, you can view his pieces close up and see them in a more personal light.

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The Crypt

One of the most interesting, or for some, macabre parts of the museum is the old crypts. When the monastery was a working church, many people would pay to be buried in such a holy place. These were both members of the Carmelite Order as well as wealthy benefactors.

But over the years, and after the fall of the religious institutions, many of these bodies were forgotten. Only in the 20th century were they uncovered during the monastery’s restoration. The bodies left here were miraculously preserved because of the rich soil by which they were surrounded. They were essentially mummified. With no one to claim the bodies, the museum decided to leave them where they rested, and now visitors can give view their wrinkled flesh up close and personal. Preserved for the ages inside their velvet-lined wooden and glass caskets.

Hours & Admission: 52 pesos | Free on Sundays, closed on Mondays

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Plaza del Carmen

Head back to the main intersection at Madero and the Avenue de la Revolution to cross over to Plaza del Carmen. The brilliant-coloured buildings that surround the square blend in amongst the vibrant flowers in the garden beds in the middle of the plaza. While the Plaza de Jacinto might be the larger and most popular square in the city, Plaza del Carmen is by far my favourite. Its quaint and cramped quarters are so joyful, with locals sitting out on the benches, chatting with friends, in the early morning. Watching the artists set up their canvases as the sun rises.

San Angel Art Market

On Saturdays, this is where the start of the San Ángel art market can be found. One of the most wonderful things about the San Ángel art market is not just for tourists. Unlike some more touristy markets around the city, this market is meant for the locals. And many people come here, from far and wide, in search of the perfect art piece for their home. The atmosphere is intoxicating, everyone admiring the newest art pieces from their favourite local painters. Rainbow-coloured umbrellas dot the skyline, protecting fresh paint from the harsh rays of the sun.

Architecture around Plaza El Carmen

Even if you don’t come on a weekend, this small Plaza is a wonder to behold. It is surrounded on all sides by incredible historical buildings, important to the neighbourhood’s history. Even in just this one square, you can get a slice of the wonderfully preserved architecture that makes this neighbourhood such a gem to visit. Examples of baroque, neoclassical and neocolonial houses can be found right here. And many have been perfectly preserved since this part of town managed to escape the urbanization of the city’s centre.

House of Chucho el Roto

To the southeast, you’ll see a brilliant yellow building with bright red trim on the corner. This is the old House of Chucho el Roto or House of The Two Courtyards. This building is a wonderful example of Mexican neoclassical styles popular during the Protofio Diaz era. The house was named because it was designed with two courtyards, a lavish expense at this time. The main courtyard was built to entertain and house splendid gardens. The secondary courtyard where the carriages and stables were placed. This allowed the home to separate the working part of the house from the relaxing retreat these country homes aimed to create.

Chucho el Roto

The house was built in the 19th century for the philanthropist Francisco de Urquiaga. A popular legend about this home states that it was the hiding place for the famous bandit Jesús Arriaga. Arriaga was also nicknamed “Chucho el Roto,” hence the other name for the house. Arriaga was somewhat of a Robin Hood-type character, robbing from the wealthy and giving to the poor. This house was reported to be connected to the underground tunnels built by the Dominicans. The tunnels could be accessed through the basement and led to the nearby Plaza San Jacinto. Making it a perfect getaway for a legendary bandit.

Sadly, Arriaga was eventually captured and died in prison. But his legend lived on long past his death. And fictional stories became even more popular after his passing. Today it houses the Library of the Revolutions of Mexico. Very apt, considering it was the hideout of this legendary anti-establishment character who would have been a staunch supporter of the revolutions.

Mercado del Carmen

On the north side of the Plaza sits the popular Mercado del Carmen. This hip communal-style eatery and art gallery are housed in an old mansion dating back to the 18th century. It was also used as an English school for the upper classes of San Agnel during the 1960s and 70s. The gorgeous blue of the house blends in almost perfectly with the sky on a clear day, making it feel at one with heaven above.

Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga

On the northwest corner of the plaza, along Calle de la Amargura is the Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga. The brilliant burnt orange exteriors and 18-century facade welcome you onto one of the most luxurious streets in the city. It was designed in the neoclassical style with baroque-style balconies.

The home was originally built for Francisco de Fagoaga, the head of a powerful silver and gold merchant. His family was one of the first to start the trend of moving their mansions out of the central city and into the countryside. His house set the tone for other wealthy haciendas built in the era and unsurprisingly lots of future houses follow the same template. It was truly a trendsetter. The orange contrasts so well with the dense green foliage and pink flowers that bloom across the facade.

Bishop’s House 

Continue along Calle de la Amargura towards the end of the street, blocked by the corner of the old Bishop of Tenagra’s mansion. Joaquín Fernández de Madrid y Canal served as the Bishop’s adobe here in San Ángel. A Bishop was a highly regarded figure in the community. As such, the friars wanted to build a house that would impress! His house was built in 1631 (!) and is one of the best-preserved pieces of history in San Ángel. Long after the revolution, the house still stood as a well sought-after real estate piece. It was home to various famous Mexican like poet José Zorrilla, historian José María Agreda and politician and general Antonio López de Santa Anna. Today, the house serves as an art gallery hosting rotating exhibitions featuring incredible Mexican artists.

Plaza San Jacinto

Turn south past the Plaza Tenanitla (dedicated to the original name of the colonial) and make your way into the grand Plaza San Jacinto. The Plaza was named the Church of San Jacinto, located just on the west side of the square. But we’ll learn more about the church later when you go inside. The little town square popped up here as it was surrounded on all sides by the church, convent and orphanage. It quickly became the heart of the community in the 18th century and continues on as such today!

 St. Patrick Battalion

On the far west side of the Plaza, on the wall opposite, you’ll see a large plaque dedicated to the St. Patrick Battalion. “Why is there a dedication to Irish soldiers in Mexico City?” you might be wondering. In 1847, during the Mexican War for independence, Irish, German and even American immigrants came over to Mexico. They wanted to help fight for Mexico’s freedom, against the United States. The battalion was one of the fiercest and responsible for a huge majority of the deaths on the American side. So when they were caught, their punishments were brutal. They were executed right here in San Jacinto square, in front of the famous church. But their legend lives in on this plaque stands in their honour. The memory of their fighting vigour an inspiration to others who would continue the fight and win the freedom of the nation.

Diego Rivera

Make your way to the centre of the Plaza and look across the elegant central fountain. There, you will see a bronze easel with the burst of Diego Rivera emblazoned into the cartouche. As Rivera was a resident of the San Angel for many years, local artists inspired by Rivera wanted to commemorate him for generations to come. There is something wonderful about Rivera’s face looking over at the artists in the square selling their works in the square. Continuing his passion for supporting Mexican artists, even from the great beyond.

Saturday Art Market

By far the most popular thing to see in the square is to peruse the incredible Saturday Art Market. The market was established here in the 1960s. Interestingly enough, the origins of the market were due to an American, Jim Tillet, who had moved to Mexico City. He brought the concept of a weekly artisan fair to Mexico City, and the idea immediately took off. The art is both meant for the locals to enjoy as well as the tourists, highlighting the beauty of the Mexican landscape and vibrant culture. There were so many amazing artists of all different styles and mediums. My favourites were the ones that were designed to look like Lotería cards.

In addition to paintings, this Plaza is also home to craftspeople. Here you can find artisan pottery, textiles and even clothing. While some of it is a bit touristy things there are also really unique designers and artists. Prices tend to be a little more expensive here in San Angel but the quality is there to match.

There are often musicians strolling around through the market, entertaining the crowds and creating a more inviting and charming atmosphere. Street food vendors pop up selling sweet treats and salty snacks to satisfy your cravings. Art hunting is hungry work!

Handicraft Shops

If you opt to visit San Angel outside of the weekend, you can still find lots of different handicraft shops open around the square throughout the week. Shops like the Bazar San Ángel, María Bonita and Local México all sell gorgeous handmade decor and art pieces for your home. The spirit of the art market lives on long past the weekend so don’t feel like you’ll have missed it all if you can only visit during the week.

Museo Casa del Risco

On the north side of the Plaza Jacinto, hidden behind the opulent trees, is an old terra-cotta-coloured building with ‘Museo Casa del Risco‘ emblazoned in brass along the fence. Inside you’ll find an old residence dating back to the 17th-century that has since been transformed into a museum. The museum recreates the look of a traditional San Angel house as it would have looked in the 18th century. Casa del Risco has a fascinating history as it served as a residence, a military barracks and a hospital.

Fuente del Risco

The house’s main feature that people come to see is the great porcelain fountain. The fountain, or “Fuente del Risco,” is located inside the main central courtyard. It was made in the late 18th century in the opulent Baroque or “ultra baroque” style popular in Mexico City during that period.

While it looks like it is merely decorative, the fountain’s design was actually an ingenious way to preserve broken porcelain. Back then, painted porcelains were extremely expensive and yet, just like today, accidents happen and you might end up breaking a plate that costs more than a used car does today. Turning them into an art sculpture like this was a way to preserve and display even the broken pieces.

Embedded within the fountain you can spot Chinese blue and white porcelain, plates from the Ming Dynasty, green porcelain from Japan, Spanish Talavera ceramics and, of course, the homegrown ceramics of Puebla. Entire bowls, plates, cups and sauces are also scattered together with broken pieces of pottery to create this magical-looking fountain. The niches are designed to look like pearlescent shells and conches and the piece is dotted with mermaid sculptures. Even here in the hill of San Angel do we find people dreaming of the ocean.

There is so much else to see inside the museum, from Baroque art, religious sculptures, antique stained glass and recreations of 18th-century living space. But if all you want to see is the fountains, it’s easy to do so as admission to the museum is free.

Admission: Free | Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am – 5 pm

Antiques Fair

On the weekends, just outside the museum, you’ll find high-end vintage and antique sellers bringing out their wares. This was almost as incredible as the museum itself, it felt like just outside you could literally buy items you’d just seen inside the museum. Paintings from the 19th century, religious objects and gorgeous pieces of antique jewellery. The prices are pretty high but even I was almost swayed into buying a locket from 1898! There are some real treasures so if you have the money to spend you’ll discover some amazing pieces in this marketplace.

Bazaar Sábado

If you don’t like sifting through the pop-up stands outside in the plaza, you can head into the Bazaar Sábado. The Bazaar Sábado is located inside a 17th-century red-painted mansion and dates back to the 1960s. Here you can find the giant home filled with over 100 permanent artisan shops selling everything from textiles to jewellery, ceramics and metalwork. Many of these craftspeople are award winners, so their prices are going to reflect that status, but the work is unparalleled. Personally, I prefer the stuff found on the street, but if you’re looking for something more upmarket, this is the place for you.

Inside the central open-air courtyard is a wonderful eatery serving up traditional breakfast and lunch street food. It can get pretty busy right at 12 pm but if you prefer to eat a bit early or late you’ll find more tables open. The food here is wonderful and a great place to try some amazing street food like Tlacoyos, quesadillas and gorditas.

Villa San Jacinto

If the Bazaar Sabado courtyard is too busy you can hop across the Plaza and make your way to the stunning courtyards of the Villa San Jacinto. This 19th-century house has been preserved and transformed to be enjoyed by present-day visitors. The Cafe de las Artes is a gorgeous little eatery inspired by the architecture of the Porfiriato era. Walking up the stairs, you are greeted by this incredible grisaille style stained glass window, bohemian lamps and the Catalan vaults.

You can also study the amazing remodelled garden filled with beautiful sculptures. The cafe sells lots of different drinks and has homemade desserts and sandwiches if you’re feeling a bit peckish. Sitting outside you can get pretty hot but is a beautiful place to admire the rotating selection of art work on display.

Parroquia San Jacinto

Heading back onto Calle Benito Juárez, walk just a few meters where you’ll find an unassuming set of stairs which leads you into the green oasis outside of the Parroquia San Jacinto. The Parroquia San Jacinto or San Jacinto Parish was founded by the Dominicans in 1564. The Dominican order had discovered a small waterfall nearby and utilized the water to power their spinning and weaving equipment. This allowed them to produce lots of different kinds of textiles. They sold them off and used the funds to fund the building of the church and the plush gardens.

Walking inside the church, the thing that immediately catches your eyes is the ornate churrigueresco-style altar. The rest of the interior of the church is pretty austere but there is something so charming about the simplicity. Be sure to poke your head around the cloisters inside the church. This is the perfect place to escape the sun for a minute and walk through the shaded walkways and central fountain.

The Garden

The contrast between the rather subdued building and the incredibly bright colours of the gardens is a wonderful pairing. In the centre of the garden is a fountain with a huge cross in the centre. This was the first cross ever carved in Mexico. Looking closely at it you can see elements from both the Christian and Pagan faiths.

Surrounding the church are cedars, eucalyptus and pine trees. I always feel like this little hidden away yard is most reminiscent of the old orchards of San Angel.

Plaza de Los Cielos

Walking back outside, take a stroll down the Calle Benito Juárez towards the Plaza de los Cielos. This little corner is a gem of the colonial-era architecture that remains in this neighbourhood. Beautifully decorated in ancient jacaranda and vibrant bougainvilleas pour over the stone walls. The little Plaza de Los Cielos is surrounded on the two sides by the old walls of the former monastery.

Plaza de los Arcángeles

Continue north along Árbol street, turning left on Segunda Cda. de Frontera, where you’ll discover one of the most peaceful yet stunning streets anywhere in Mexico City. The walls here are covered in foliages, and when they bloom in bright purple and blue, it feels like walking through a tunnel of flowers.

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At the end of the street, you’ll find the secret Plaza de Los Arcángeles. A nook tucked into the neighbourhood’s corner features a series of benches under a series of stone arches. In the centre of the small gardenette is a shrine to the Virgin of Guadalupe tucked inside the hole of a tree. The name of the Plaza comes from three large sandstone benches named after the Archangels; Gabriel, Rafael and Michael. It’s a fantastically peaceful place and well worth the three-minute detour!

Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada

Walk back up Arbol and west along with Calle Hidalgo. On the northwest corner is one of the more historic homes of San Angel. Casa de los marqueses de Selva Nevada was owned by Ana Ortiz de Móxica in the end of the 18th century. It would later go on to the owned by María Josefa Rodríguez de Pinillos, the ambassador of Austria-Hungary in Mexico. Maria is responsible for the majority of the renovations we can see today. One of the most impressive parts of the building is the gorgeous wooden gates set between the beautiful white painted trim and ochre-coloured exterior. The door was designed with traditional elements of Mudejar decoration.

Casa Blanca

Continue along the Calle Hidalgo until you reach the large white house at #43. This is called the Casa Blanca, or “white house,” a 17th-century hacienda owned by the Oploca counts. Look closely at the coat of arms above the door to see the design of this family’s old shield. During its life in San Angel, the house was once home to the second-largest orchard in the neighbourhood. All hidden away behind the beautiful parapets of the white house. A small plaque on the front of the house honoured it as a place of historical significance. During the Second Franco-Mexican War, this house served as a bunker for French and American soldiers.

Legen of the Casa Blanca

But the most significant thing about this house is the legend that goes along with it. If you walk slightly further away from the front door, you’ll see a large wrought iron balcony towards the back of the house. The story goes that the woman who once lived here had the love of her life go off to war. She watched him leave from this balcony and would return to it every day, waiting for his return. But he never would come home, and she died an old woman, standing on the balcony, heartbroken. Eternally waiting for her true love to come home. Her ghost is said to still haunt the upper balcony so keep your eyes peeled for her wailing cries.

Licenciado | Leandro Valle

Continue down Hidalgo until you reach Licenciado street and walk north. This is another fantastic example of just how amazing even the ordinary homes in this neighbourhood are. Walls are dripping in ivy and each new facade is painted in a different vibrant colour. Rich wooden doorways and fantastical wrought iron gates protect entry from the street into the secretive homes inside.

Although there might not be any specific historical sights here, these are the streets that make visiting a neighbourhood like San Angel so worth it! The road curves to the right and turns into Leandro Valle. Eventually, popping you outright outside Avenue Altavista. Bringin you to the front steps of the famous Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo

Standing from across the street is the best way to introduce yourself to this famous home. You can see the red and white building on the right, which served as Diego Rivera‘s studio contrasted by the bright periwinkle painted studio for Frida Kahlo. The two homes are connected via the large walkway on the top floor. The entire design of the homes is symbolic of their love. Two very different artists and lovers that are yet forever connected. This was Rivera’s dream home that he had commissioned by architect and friend Juan O’Gorman. O’Gorman is well known for many different famous buildings in Mexico City including the incredible designs inside the UNAM campus.

The museum leads you through both houses to see their studios, living spaces and a gorgeous rooftop view across the neighbourhood of San Angel. To get a complete guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo you can read our full guide here.

San Angel Inn

To end your day in San Angel, head back across the street and to the historic San Angel Inn. In my honest opinion, the food isn’t the best here. It was probably one of the most disappointing meals I’ve had in Mexico City. And for what you get, it’s overpriced. But that being said, nothing can compete with this restaurant’s history, decor, and architecture.

My recommendation is to arrive before or after their lunch or dinner rush. And opt for only a drink and perhaps a dessert or snack. This way you can still enjoy the incredible environments but don’t need to worry about spending too much on subpar food. Plus, our margaritas were some of the best we’ve ever had so there are some definite gems to be found!

History

The best way to describe this place is an institution. The building itself dates back to 1616! It was originally the Our Lady of Santa Ana Monastery, built by Hernando Aragonés. Surrounding the monastery was a series of superb orchards and rich agave gardens. They produced a large amount of pulque here over the years, an iconic drink found only in Mexico. Despite changing hands many times over the years, much of the original gardens have been preserved to enjoy today.

History of San Angel Inn

In 1777, the old monastery was purchased by Ramon Goicoechea, who converted it into his family mansion. The hotel was also owned by musician Carlos Prieto who hosted classical music concerts inside. Even today, this tradition continues with live music played throughout the restaurant. Many years later, in 1908, the property was transformed into a large hotel and restaurant. The new owners sold off the excess land, which turned into the neighbourhood of Altavista. The huge mansion was divided up to make all different spaces, from guest rooms to the various restaurants and event spaces we can visit today.

Walking through the hallways, courtyards, and different rooms feels like being inside a living museum. The walls are covered in artworks collected by all the different owners who called this place home over the years. Famously, this restaurant was so popular that it was even notable for hosting various Mexican revolutionaries from Emiliano Zapata to Pancho Villa and Zapata. They were even seen singing a unity pact right here in the restaurant!

This brings us to the end of this incredible tour of San Angel. I hope you’ve enjoyed the sights we’ve seen along the way. Let me know in the comments which stop was your favourite or other treasures you’ve discovered along the way!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Guide to the Artistic and Creative Corners of San Angel, Mexico City Walking Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

There has never been anything I’d been so quick to review. During my most recent stay in Mexico City, I was travelling solo. Whenever I’m alone, I love to join a group tour. While I do personally enjoy my solitude, I also enjoy meeting new people and getting to experience new adventures with others. I knew a food tour was in order, as I think there is no better way to get to know someone than having a meal with them! But it took me a while to find a tour that really piqued my interest. But then I found Eat Like a Local.

About Eat Like a Local

Eat Like a Local is a female-owned Mexico City Food Tour company that strives to be one of the best in sustainable tourism. It pays its female-only employees a proper wage and supports female-owned businesses in the market places. Plus, part of the tour price helps young girls go to school to learn to speak English. Providing them with a rich education that sets them up to succeed and grow. Any extra money the tour company earns goes towards sending some of the girls to go on a trip of their own. Anywhere around the world. Allowing them to see the same world of travel, they help tourists experience in their own city.

Giving back to the Community

The company even uses part of the tour price to support the infrastructure of the marketplaces. Helping to improve them. So many tours I saw listed seem to use the marketplaces as a tourist attraction. These tours don’t actively view the marketplace as a real place of work and community. While eating inside the marketplace is great to support the individual businesses, supporting the infrastructure where they work is a sign of a true venture into sustainable tourism. So with all that in mind, and a promise of some truly phenomenal street food, I booked my ticket and joined the tour.

The Best Foor Tour in Mexico City!

1. About Eat Like a Local
2. The Tour Details
3. The Overall Experience
4. La Condesa
5. Taking the Metro
6. Jamaica Market
7. La Merced Market
8. Juarez Gelato Shop

The Tour Details

Cost

Eat Like a Local offers three different food “safaris” for you to choose from. Each one costs $115 USD. This covers all the food you’ll eat on the tour as well as your transportation. I opted for the Mexican Food 101 tour as it seemed to cover the widest variety of food. They also have a Flower Market and Mezcal tasting tour but since I don’t drink very much I thought that one might not be for me. There is also a street food at night tour that I really can’t wait to check out next time I’m in town!

When you book, you’ll only pay half of the total tour price online via their website. The other half you MUST pay in CASH upon meeting the guide. They use this cash to pay for the food along the way. So it’s essential to bring the right amount of money when you arrive at the meeting point. Don’t think you can just stop at the ATM after the tour is over.

How Big is the Tour

Like any good tour group, the size of the group is small. This means you have a much more intimate experience. But with the guide and the rest of the group. I cannot stress enough how the five of us felt like old friends by the end of the day. I even knew all their kids’ names! Small tour groups really are a sign of a great experience to come.

How Long is the Tour?

The entire tour lasted about four hours. In that time we covered a lot of ground (thanks to hopping on and off the metro.) They say that you’ll walk about 4.5 miles throughout the tour. I loved all the walking as it really helped make room for more food! Dress comfortably, and wear good walking shoes. Be sure this means closed-toe shoes since the marketplaces can get wet.

A Note about Safety

When booking the tour, one of the things that both intrigued, excited and made me a bit nervous was the fact we would travel via the metro. I had long wanted to experience taking the metro in Mexico City. But after hearing so many stories about how dangerous it was, I was always hesitant. But my tour guide Panda made the experience fear-free and super explanatory for future trips. The metro was so efficient and I never felt unsafe. And aside from drawing attention to ourselves as a group of loud English speakers on a tour, I don’t think anyone would have given us a second look.

I was careful to bring only my phone with me and kept it in a bag with an internal zip when required. Panda was great about letting us know when we should be more careful. Just like any big city, some areas are more prevalent with pickpockets. The largest market in Barcelona is a huge hot spot for pickpockets, so don’t think it’s just CDMX. I never felt the least bit afraid anywhere we went on the tour. So don’t let their overly cautious advice put you off! Use common sense, leave your large camera at home and don’t wear or bring anything flashy. Our tour guide also took lots of pictures and even emailed them to us afterwards. So if you wanted to just leave everything at home, and immense yourself, you’ll still get lots of souvenir pictures to take home.

Accessibility

This tour might be challenging if you’re travelling in a wheelchair or have issues with accessibility. Both are due to the distance covered and the lack of accessible entrances in various parts of the marketplace. But, you can absolutely reach out to the tour company directly to book a private tour. They do lots of private tours and they will be able to curate a specific tour just for you.

Bathrooms

I am definitely someone who has a small bladder, so bathroom breaks are always imperative for longer tours. There were plenty of stops along the way for bathrooms. Don’t hesitate to ask if you need to use one. Most of the bathrooms inside the marketplace cost 5 pesos to enter, so bring a bit of change to use them. Our guide also had some coins for those who didn’t have any on them.

Dietary Restrictions

The tour states they can accommodate all different dietary restrictions, including vegetarian and gluten-free. Be sure to let them know in advance. This way, they can ensure something will be available for you at every stop. We had a vegetarian with us on our tour, and it was so fun to see all the different alternatives to our dishes. He definitely had to skip one of two stops but there were plenty of options at most places. And honestly, there is so much food on tour, missing out on one or two places might actually be a good idea!

The Overall Experience

Their website lists all the different types of food you’ll taste along the way, so I’m not giving anything away by detailing my experience here. I wanted to share the wonderful stories from my experience as a means to encourage those travelling to Mexico City to book a tour for themselves. But also as a way for those who read my blog to feel immersed in another world to travel along with me. Even if they can’t go themselves. Even if I did give you step-by-step instructions on where to go, you’d never be able to explore these places for yourself. There are too many hidden secrets and tiny sellers that only locals can guide you to.

La Condesa

We met up in La Condesa to start the tour off right with a coffee! This gave us all a chance to meet each other and get to know our guide. Our guide, Panda, was one of the most hilarious and fun people I’d ever met. From the minute she starting she felt like an old school friend and had us all smiling from ear to ear. After grabbing our coffees, we needed a little sweet treat. So we set out for pastries! We stopped at a Condesa institution which sells concha (sweet bread.) The perfect starter to get our stomachs prepped.

Tacos de Canasta

Next, we explored two different street food stalls in La Condesa. One was selling the classic breakfast staple Tacos de Canasta, aka sweaty tacos. These tacos are made by filling a taco with stew and bathing them in oil or butter. They are then layered up inside baskets and sold all over the city. Sometimes on the back of bicycles, but in this case at a street food stall.

The man working here had been selling them for over 35 years!! He is so popular that he made enough money selling these tacos to be able to send his kids to university! Here you had the options of a variety of fillings, from pork to potato and chicharron. Once you pick your filling, you could smother them in hot sauce. I was so surprised by how delicious they were. I had never tried tacos de canasta before because I thought they’d be soggy. But that wasn’t the case at all! I could have honestly eaten a dozen. But knew I had to save room in my stomach, as this was only our second stop!

Mixiotes

The next stop was tacos mixiotes. Mixiotes are made from stewing meat inside an agave leaf bag. The meat was so flavourful, seasoned with a mixture of all different chillies. This stand had almost a dozen other toppings you could add to your taco. I wanted to really savour the flavour of the meat, so I just went with a few slices of nopales (cactus) pads. And, of course, a squeeze of lime and hot sauce.

It was about now that I realized I would never be able to finish everything we sampled at this rate. As much as I wanted to because everything we ate was delicious. Thankfully, Panda, our guide, stepped in and told us no one would be offended if we didn’t finish. And we could split what we could share, or she could ask the vendor for a smaller portion. I felt so relieved as I’m always so worried that my small stomach and inability to always finish what’s on my plate is apt to offend the cook!

Taking the Metro

After this stop, we hopped onto the metro at Baldera station. I had been pretty nervous about riding the metro. But from the minute we descended down into the station, I realized how perfectly normal and unintimidating it was. All your tickets are paid for upon entering, but Panda took us through how to buy your tickets and use the system in case you want to ride the metro on your own after the tour.

The metro platforms were incredibly clean and actually super pretty to look at. The floors and walls were made of beautiful stone that looked like the station were carved out of the ground. While we were on tour, the metro was fairly empty, only getting busy near mid-afternoon. Most of the time, we could all get seats with no problem. When the cars were super full, we simply waited for the next train. They come very frequently so we had no trouble getting enough space and feeling safe. Interesting to note that there are also female-only train cars. These are marked on the floor of the station platform with pink signs marked with “Solo Dames y Menores de 12 Anos.”

Jamaica Market

The next stop on tour was inside Jamaica Market! Although you might read the word “Jamaica” and think of the country, Jamaica actually means “hibiscus flower” in Spanish. The Jamaica Market is home to the largest flower market in the city, with over 1,150 stalls selling over 5,000 different varieties of flowers! Almost all of them grown around Mexico.

The market is divided into two different areas; the first is almost devoid of flowers entirely and primarily sells produce, meat and other grocery staples. When you cross over to the second section of the market, you’re immediately overwhelmed with the smell of flowers. Before you can even see the flowers, you’ll know you’ve arrived.

Tacos Carnitas & Tepache

Our first stop was at a long communal table right at the market entrance. Pig heads hung in the butcher shops down the aislse, and you knew right away this was the place to get pork! The order was simple, tacos de carnitas, topped with raw onions and cilantro. While I thought I’d had carnitas before, after tasting this, it felt like I had never eaten them before in my life. This was the best-tasting taco I’ve ever eaten, and I still dream about it! While we were eating, Panda explained to us the myths about why you are almost always given two tortillas with every serving of tacos. But I’ll leave that tidbit for you to discover on tour…

To pair with our tacos, we got to sample tepache. Tepache is a fermented pineapple drink made from the peel and the rind of pineapples and refined cane sugar. It had that tang you get from other fermented drinks like kombucha. It was super sweet but so delicious and definitely cleansed the palette from the fatty pork tacos. The perfect combination!

Jicaleta

Next up, we walked around the market to the brightly coloured bins of what looked like powdered sugar. Beside these pins were huge round discs on popsicle sticks that looked like white lollipops with the words “Rico Jicaleta.” I have seen these signs all over the city and always wondered what they were! It turns out the giant thing on a popsicle stick is a Jicama, a root vegetable.

To convince kids to eat their vegetables, someone came up with the genius idea to cover the jicama with chamoy (pickled plum with chile sauce) and then dip the veggie in powdered sugar. Since the jicama is pretty neutral in its flavouring it allows itself to be the vehicle for these amazing flavours of powered sugar. Everything as simple as strawberry or blueberry to more exciting flavours like mango chilli and tamarind. You can even use the other colours to create a cool rainbow-like pattern on the jicama. I can see why these are such a popular treat with both kids and adults.

Piñata Market

Next up on tour, we walked deeper into the marketplace amongst hundreds and hundreds of piñatas. The Jamaica market is known for its huge piñatas selection. Design range from traditional stars to cartoon characters. And I even saw a covid one! What a perfect thing to bash away at, a way of taking out all the pent up frustration over the loss of the last two years.

Chorizo Verde

Sitting down outside a small shop beside piles of bright fruits and vegetables, we tried what I thought was the most incredible taco innovation of the whole tour; green chorizo! The proud owner displayed all his different types of chorizo sausages outside the shop. But none were as eye wateringly delicious to look at as the green chorizo. The pork-based sausage is mixed with a blend of fresh green veggies like spinach and lettuce. Then zesty green herbs are added to ramp the flavour up. Anything from cilantro, thyme, marjoram, whatever is in season.

After this they add green chillies (because heat is a staple of the chorizo sausage) and the most important and unique ingredient – NUTS! Yes, that’s right, they add anything from peanuts to pumpkins seeds or almonds to the meat. We ate it completely plain to start to ensure we could appreciate the flavour of all the ingredients. And OMG, I cannot explain how incredible this was. Truly one of the most unique and surprising parts of the tour. I wish I could remember where this was so I could go back to eat more!

Heading down to the other side of the market, we stopped at a few more stalls for some tiny samples as we went. Crispy tortillas covered in locally made crema y queso (cream cheese) and a bite of chicharrón (deep-fried pork skin).

Fresh Fruit Stalls

On the other side of the market, where the smell of flowers filled the air, we stopped for a selection of fresh fruit. The fruit was just what the doctor ordered to change things up and refresh my palette. I always admire the beautiful spreads at these fruit stands when I pass by. So many different fruits I’ve never tried, let alone seen before. Lucky for me, when we stopped, the friendliest man came out from behind the piles of fruit with these little banana leaf trays. Inside were slices of all kinds of fruits. Panda took us through what each bite was, and we dove in.

My taste buds were exploding. I couldn’t believe how delicious some of these fruits were, things I’d never tried before, which set my mouth alight. My favourite by far was the Soursop, which was tangy, sweet, and, as the name indicates, sour. I need to find this in Toronto! And my other favourite was the black zapote, which tastes like chocolatey permission pudding! The Chirimoya blew my mind as it tasted like a strawberry blended with a kiwi. I was truly entranced by all the flavours and vowed to make more of an effort to buy fresh fruit next time I’m in town.

Wholesale Flowers

Walking around the flower market was the best kind of chaos. We didn’t have a ton of time to admire the flowers; this is a working market, after all. People were milling about, grabbing carfuls of flowers for their stands in the city and small bouquets for their homes. Voices cried over one and other as people haggled for the best price.

During the Day of the Dead ceremonies, this market is packed to the rooftops with trucks full of orange Mexican marigolds. These are the most popular flower synonymous with the festival. They are used to decorate the ofrendas of past loved ones as the brightly coloured flowers are thought to guide the spirits of those who have passed back home.

As we moved through the crowds of people, we arrived at the back, where the larger floral displays are located. These are for celebrations like communions and quinceaneras in addition to funerals and weddings. But apparently, one of the most popular reasons people buy huge floral displays is to apologize for cheating on their wives…or at least that’s what Panda told us! The bigger the arrangement, the more sorry you are!

Esquites

The next stop on tour was for a cup of esquites fritos. Esquites are fire-roasted corn kernels, stewed in lard, and mixed with aromatic herbs and arbol chillies. I’ve had esquites many times before, as they are one of my favourite street snacks, but none as delicious as the ones we got here! There are definitely some secret ingredients at work here.

Before leaving the market, we stopped at a tortilla maker cranking out hundreds of perfect corn circles every hour. There is genuinely nothing more fresh than eating a hot tortilla right off the press. With nothing more than a sprinkle of salt, you can really appreciate how simple and complex the flavours are. And why this tiny disc has become such a staple of Mexican food throughout the centuries.

La Merced Market

After a quick bathroom break, we hopped back on the metro. We transferred from the teal line (#4) to the pink line (#1) and made our way directly into the Mercados de la Merced. Mercados de la Merced, or La Merced Market, has its own dedicated metro stop. And unlike other metro stations where you need to exit onto the street to get to your next destination, this stop exits right into the heart of the market. This is actually the only way you should enter the market. The exterior streets around here are a little dangerous but by entering directly inside, you avoid the exterior entirely.

History of the Market

La Merced Market is named after the monastery of Nuestra Señora de la Merced de Redención de Cautivos. The monastery was established here in 1594, just after the Spanish Conquest. The neighbourhood that sprang up around the monastery also goes by the name La Merced. After the conquest, this part of the city, being just on the outskirts (before the expansion of what is now CDMX), was a hotbed for traders. They would arrive here from all different parts of the country and beyond. They could easily dump their goods here for sale and transfer further into the central part of the city.

By 1860, almost the entire neighbourhood was one big market. So the city decided to move the marketplace into a permanent, covered building. By now, the old La Merced Monastery has been closed down for years. But the empty building proved to be the perfect place to establish the new permanent market.

20th Century Market

In the 20th century, the market continued to expand becoming one of the largest wholesale markets in the city. Here you can find everything from fruit, vegetables, meat, poultry, toys, clothes, flowers, candy and more.

Sadly, there is a dark history to the building as well. In 1988 a fireworks stall exploded inside the marketplace, killing more than 60 people! Then again, in 1998, there was another fire due to faulty wiring that destroyed much of the old main hall and 572 stalls. Luckily no one was killed in that fire, but the damage was extensive. Despite the accident occurring almost 20 years ago, repairs are still ongoing.

Just in front of the entrance to the market from the metro station, you’ll see a cheerful cartoon map of the marketplace. Each different section of the market is dedicated to a different specialty, so you know exactly where to go for what. I was immediately drawn to the candy section and was delighted to hear we would be stopping in there near the end of the tour.

Insects

Our first stop inside the market threw us right into the deep end of Mexican cuisine, at the Insectos stand. Yes, that’s right, bugs! I actually really like bugs as food; I’ve had them a few times around the world and find the flavour pretty interesting. If you don’t want to try them, just politely say no. Don’t make a big show of being grossed out or anything like that. Insects have been eaten and used in cooking here for centuries. It’s disrespectful to act disgusted by a kind of food they consider pretty normal.

I do recommend trying them at least once. And when you stop here at the stall, they also give you a glass of freshly pressed pineapple juice to chase down the bugs. In case it’s just not for you. My favourite was the crickets, but I was actually surprised how much I liked the little worms! The scorpion was the least tasty, a little too earthy for my liking, but I’m sure it would be great in other dishes.

Micheladas

We walked through the crowds of stalls towards the outer edge of the market, along Rosario street. Despite being a working street, with cars and lorries driving through, it also feels like an extension of the marketplace. Stalls pour out onto the streets with their wares leaning out so far they almost touch either side of the road. It’s so tight that often when a big truck comes thru, some stores need to move things they’re selling back inside to allow the cars to pass. It’s a very cool bit of choreography to watch.

We took a seat inside a casual bar where we gathered around a large table, welcomed by the smiles of the locals. Then we were given a series of brightly colours bowls, jars and glass bottles, like a modern-day apothecary in the centre of Mexico City. We were greeted by the amazingly kind Arely, one of the girls from the 80IQ program. 80IQ is a program created by the Eat Like a Local founder that funds the education of these young women and where they also receive mentoring.

With her adorable son in tow, Arley came to our table to practice speaking English and teach us to make a Mexican Michelada. Micheladas are such a fun beverage to make and we loved learning all the steps and ingredients that go into it! First, cover the rim in chamoy and dip in caramelized sesame seeds. Next, add more chamoy, Worcestershire, and hot sauce then filled the glass with a cold beer! Since I don’t drink beer, so I was given a glass of fizzy pineapple juice, and let me tell you mixture was just as delicious!!! We took this chance to enjoy our cold drinks, a refreshing break from the heat of the day. We grabbed for a bit, chatting with Arley and even celebrating an anniversary in our little group!

Quesadillas

From here, Arley handed us over to Wendy, another girl from the program. Wendy spoke incredibly well at only 14 years old and was such a great guide! She took us to her grandmother’s street food stall, where a series of women bustling around a hot comal. They went about serving us bite-size pieces of a variety of classic Mexican street food samples.

Huitlacoche

The one I was most excited about trying were the quesadillas. Although this might not seem very exotic, the filling inside the quesadilla was ‘huitlacoche‘ or, as it is known in English, corn smut! Huitlacoche is considered a delicacy in Mexico, even though it might not seem very appetizing. The word comes from the Nahuatl language and means “sleeping excrescence,” because the corn is transformed by a fungus that impedes them from developing. Thus, they remain “sleeping.” If the fungus doesn’t sound appealing to you, I’d ask, “well, have you ever eaten mushroom?” because the flavour is essentially the same. I couldn’t believe how complex the flavour was, and I was so happy I had finally been able to sample it! 

Pambazo

We also got quesadillas with squash blossoms filled with cheese from Oaxaca. Then there was a slice of tlacoyo filled with black beans and covered in requeson (like ricotta cheese) and more nopales. The last item on the place was Pambazo. The pambazo sandwich is apparently the most authentic Mexico City street food. One that originated here. It is made from a white bun that has been dipped in adobo sauce and then filled with chorizo, cheese, cream and lettuce.

Candy

After all this, I thought there was no way I’d ever be able to get up. But somehow, we shuffled out of the tiny chairs outside the street food stall and bid a sad farewell to Wendy’s family. They waved goodbye to us with big smiles as we headed back into the crowded marketplace. But I perked up as we learned we were on our way to the candy district. There are many reasons I love Mexico City, but one of them has got to be their love of bulk candies. You can find little carts wheeling around the neighbourhood every day. Filled with candy fills at the ready for your cravings. But here in the marketplace must be where they all come to load up these carts every morning.

Candies exploded out of bins and baskets in rainbow colours everywhere we looked. We sampled a few unique varieties like dried mango with chilis, tamarind candies, spicy candied almonds and, of course, lots and lots of flavoured powdered sugar. My favourites are these little fruit-shaped gummies that look like they are made of glass. Almost too pretty to eat! I could honestly have been here for hours, but I was too full to try anything more, lucky for my blood sugar.

Juarez Gelato Shop

To arrive at our last stop on tour, we hopped once more on the metro and made our way over to the Juarez neighbourhood. This part of town is just starting to become a new hot spot for hip eateries. We stopped at one of the chicest gelato shops, where we were greeted by flavours out of this world. Tamarind & mezcal, Oaxacan chocolate, cempasúchil (marigold), tonka bean, olive oil, lavender, and even epazote elato leaf are just some of the falvours that are on rotation here. We got to sample any three flavours we wanted. Although I had felt like I couldn’t eat another bite earlier, there seems to always be a second stomach for dessert.

This was our last stop, so we all just sat around chatting while eating our ice cream. None of us wanted to leave. We had all really become friends by the end of the day. Panda gave us all her recommendations based on the questions we asked along the way. After much hesitation, we all eventually parted ways! Leaving with full bellies, smiles on our faces, and lots of stories to share with our friends and family. The perfect end to the perfect tour.

To Tip or Not to Tip?

Tipping is always a considerate thing to do at the end of a tour just as at the end of a meal. It’s a way to say “thank you” to the guide for their time, effort and expertise. While it’s not required, it is appreciated. Don’t feel the need to financially burden yourself but honestly, even a little bit goes a long way to show your appreciation.

I truly can’t say enough good things about this tour and I really hope if you get the chance to visit Mexico City you put booking this Mexico City Food Tour with Eat Like a Local at the top of your list!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Best Street Food Tour in Mexico City! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This Jack the Ripper Walking Tour takes you through some of the most notorious places involved in the crimes. You’ll hear stories of Jack the Ripper’s victims and learn about this terrifying time in London’s history. In addition to the bloody sights and grisly details, these murders are also significant for being one of the earliest tabloid true crime sensations. One hundred and thirty-three years later, Jack the Ripper still manages to fascinate people everywhere with his gruesome, unsolved murders.

Table Of Contents

1. London in 1888
2. Starting Point: Gunthorpe Street
3. The Murder of Martha Tabram
4. Flower and Dean Walk
5. Osborn Street
6. Brick Lane
7. Frying Pan
8. Buck's Row
9. Mary Ann Nichols
10. Whitechapel Road
11. 29 Hanbury Street
12. Annie Chapman
13. The Newspaper Tabloids
14. The Ten Bells Spitalfields
15. Queens Head Pub
16. The Princess Alice Pub
17. Henriques Street
18. Elizabeth Stride
19. Catherine Eddowes
20. Mitre Square
21. From Hell Letters
22. 13 Millers Court
23. Mary Jane Kelly
24. So Who was Jack the Ripper?
25. White Hart Pub
26. The Suspects

About This Walking Tour

In just under two hours, you can retrace the steps of Jack the Ripper in 1888. Although I would carve out about three hours so you can take your time. This way you can even stop into some spots along the way. The Ripper is still alive in our memories as if he still lurks behind every corner. As you walk, listen for footsteps behind you on these dark streets and be sure to have your wits about you. Jack’s ghosts are known to prowl the street of Whitechapel even to this day. All you need is this map and your curiosity as you embark on this eerie adventure.

Be warned! This tour goes into lots of detail about Whitechapel’s poverty, Victorian life in 1888, and the gruesome murders. It might be a little much for some youngsters so use your judgement. We don’t share any pictures in this post from the crimes scenes but we also don’t judge what you choose to google. The tour starts at the entrance to Gunthorpe Street on Whitechapel Road. If you’d prefer to just skip to only certain parts of the tour you can easily use the table of contents to find what you’re looking for.

Self Guided vs Guided Tour

Jack the Ripper Walking Tours in London, are a profession. Many of the best guides are more like actors and historians than just plain chatty guides. This part of London is overrun with tour guides taking Jack the Ripper groups along the streets. They can get swamped, and the cheaper tours are often so large that it’s sometimes hard to hear the guide talk. Taking a self-guided tour means you can go at your own pace. You can stop or detour where you want or just follow the steps as I’ve laid them out here. I’ve done my best to really make this tour as in-depth and historically accurate as possible. The stories we tell making the tale come live in front of you and take you back to 1888.

TIPS

• If you see a tour group overtaking a particular spot, just wait for them to move along
• Once the larger groups move along you’ll suddenly have the entire area just to yourself!
• If you want a more haunting atmosphere for your tour, come late at night, long after the group tours have concluded. You’ll find the East End almost as dark and eerie as it was back in 1888
• All of the stops on the tour are located on public property but if you do choose to take the tour at night, keep your voices down as we do pass by several residential areas
• Alternatively, if you have kids who are interested in learning about Jack the Ripper but up for the late night tour, you can easily do this tour during the day
• Remember, this part of town isn’t a museum. The East End is a working neighbourhood filled with locals, so be sure to not stop in the middle of the sidewalk. This is very irritating to the residents who are just trying to make their way around

Following Jack the Ripper’s Footsteps

This tour is designed to walk the steps of Jack the Ripper and his victims in chronological order. Because of this, we might backtrack here and there. But we will always walk along a different stretch of road to fully explore the area around Whitechapel and Spitalfields. Walking in chronological order makes the story unfold in front of you in an even more exciting fashion. Reading all the evidence and stories about Jack the Ripper as it happened in 1888 really brings the story to life.

London in 1888

Sadly, much of the Victorian City of London was destroyed during the bombing in World War II. Few buildings remain in Whitechapel, which are reminiscent of life here in 1888. But there are still some hidden gems that cast a little glimpse into the past. Various streets or structure that gives us an idea of what the neighbourhood looked like during the reign of terror of Jack the Ripper.

Whitechapel was a small borough of London bordered by the ancient City of London to the west, Spitalfields to the north and St George-in-the-east. The name ‘Whitechapel’ comes from the old St. Mary Matfelon church, which was established here in 1338. The church has been a simple white painted, which was the largest structure in the East End at the time. Being such a landmark, it became a nickname for the district. In 1888, Whitechapel was London’s worst slum. It had the highest death rates, the most severe overcrowding, and the most dangerous place in London.

The Whitechapel Slum

The Whitechapel neighbourhood was developed adjacent to the city’s noxious industries. Shipyards, breweries, tanneries and slaughterhouses were the foul-smelling industries. The City of London designated the East End for these businesses as the prevailing winds in London travelled from west to east. This way, most of the odours would not flow into the upper-class areas of the city. But it meant that Whitechapel was where the worst pollution and smells would coagulate. It was a less than desirable area where the most impoverished people lived. The low-paid employment in the docks and those foul-smelling industries made worse piecework and casual labour, resulting in the area becoming somewhat of a slum.

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Immigrant Population

Rent was extremely cheap and in addition to the local unfortunates, Whitechapel drew in a large immigrant population. In the 1880’s Whitechapel was home to thousands of eastern-European Jewish and Polish refugees. The English residents were less than welcoming to these refugees. There was rampant anti-Semitism in the streets of Whitechapel. English residents feared they were taking away “English” jobs and the reason for their sordid plot in life. This melting pot of hate, poverty and filth all contributed to the boiling point which was about to explode when Jack the Ripper came to town.

Life in the East End

Some streets in Whitechapel were so dangerous they were dubbed “the blackest of the black streets.” Police only patroled in groups of four to protect themselves from the gangs that roamed the shadowy alleys. There was no sanitation in Whitechapel. There was no plumbing inside the apartments, where sometimes as many as nine people shared one bedroom. You would just throw your sewage and rubbish out into the streets. The smell walking down the lanes would have been almost unbearable.

Unlike some images, we might have in our mind of London in 1888, the streets were not all light by the gaslight. Instead, Whitechapels alleys were some of the darkest places in the entire city. Whitechapel Road was well lit but as soon as you headed off on the side streets, you were met with utter darkness. In this complete obscurity, prostitution could easily take place. Out of sight of the police. But it was also in this complete darkness where murderers could quickly and easily kill their prey and then slip away into the night.

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Whitechapel Today

Today, the area of Whitechapel is filled with Bangladesh and Asian immigrants who moved here in the 1960s to set up textile shops and incredible restaurants! If you’re coming here to do a Jack the Ripper walking tour, please make sure you dine in one of these top-notch restaurants. Instead of just tromping through the area and not giving back to the community be sure to stop in and get a spot of dinner or a snack at one of these many amazing restaurants.

Starting Point: Gunthorpe Street

We start our tour at the intersection of Gunthorpe Street and Whitechapel Road. A small archway leads you from Whitechapel Road into the narrow alley which is Gunthorpe Street. Gunthorpe Street is located away from the car horns of busy Whitechapel Road. This quiet alley feels like a glimmer of London from 1888. The cobblestones and brick buildings are reminiscent of a bygone era.

It was here where you’d find some of Whitechapel’s most raucous lodging houses, stables and narrow garden courts. The area already had a mean reputation and has been described as a “notorious Rendez-vous of thieves.” Violent assaults were commonplace around here, but surprisingly murder was less common. And when someone was murdered it was commonly a part of a robbery. Murder for murder’s sake was almost unheard of. And the violent mutilation that Jack the Ripper inflicted on his victims was unlike anything even the most hardened district had ever seen.

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George Yard Lodging House

In 1888, Gunthrope Street was named George Yard. It was along this street where you would have found the George Yard Lodging House. Lodging Houses were how some of the poorest inhabitants of London slept at night. Few people had a fixed address in Whitechapel. They wore everything they owed as they walked the streets. A bed for the night had to be earned, and if you couldn’t pay, you were thrown out on the street. The lodging houses were also called “doss houses” or “fourpenny hotels” as the cost of a night’s stay was 4-pence.

In the front window of the lodging house, a number was posted, this referred to the number of free beds available. Often you’d find 20 people sleeping in one crowded room. They slept atop horsehair mattresses. These were usually filled with lice, scabies and even feces. The bed linens were only changed once a week (hence all the bugs). By law, the windows had to be opened and aired out at 10 am the following day since the smells from the residents were so potent they often were overwhelming.

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The Murder of Martha Tabram

It was here on Gunthrope Street (then George Yard) that the mutilated body of 39-year old Martha Tabram was found. Although Martha wasn’t considered a “canonical victim” of Jack the Ripper at the time, many detectives since are more persuaded of Jack’s involvement in the murder. 

Tabram was discovered on the first-floor landing of George Yard Buildings at 4:50 am on August 7th, 1888. No one knows when she was killed as her body was only discovered when the lamps were lit in this darkened lane. Although some Lodging Houses did have lamps above their entrances, the gaslamps were usually put out around 11 pm to save money. 

The attack on Martha was extremely violent. She suffered from 39 frenzied stab wounds to her throat, chest and abdomen. One of the reasons the police didn’t connect her to the future Jack the Ripper murders was that she was not disembowelled. Nor had her throat been cut (although it had been slashed.) But many suggest that perhaps Jack was only starting his horrific crusade. The variations in her murder scene were simply because he had yet to settle into a routine. Either way, her murder horrified the residents of Whitechapel, who clung to any piece of information they could glean from the newspapers. 

The Unfortunates of the East End

Martha Tabram was often referred to in the papers and in the history books as a common prostitute. But like with almost all of Jack the Ripper’s victims, this is only a part of these women’s stories. We spend a lot of time talking about the identity of Jack the Ripper. But to give his victims their due, I also focus on stories of the victims who too often get forgotten in my tour. Most, if not all of the victims of Jack the Ripper, didn’t choose prostitution. They were forced into it by a system that left them with no other opportunities to make enough money to live.

Martha was married in 1869, but the two divorced in 1875 due to Martha’s apparent “heavy drinking.” The excuse of alcoholism was another common thread that many of these women share. Drinking to forget the horrible place in which they lived. Martha was given twelve shillings per week allowance by her ex-husband, but this was reduced to 2 shillings and 6 pence after she kept harassing him in public for more money. When he learned she had been living with another man, her allowance was cut off.

The new man in her life was carpenter, Henry Turner. The two made a decent living selling trinkets they made on the street, but they separated in the cursed year of 1888, once more due to Martha’s drinking. With no means of making money, Martha turned to selling her body on the streets. Although the word “prostitute” is used to describe their occupation, I prefer the Victorian term “an unfortunate” as this is genuinely the best definition of these women’s situation.

Flower and Dean Walk

Continue along Gunthorpe Street, veering left at Wentworth Street stopping at the arched entrance to Flower and Dean Walk. The beautiful red brick townhomes along Flower and Dean Walk are very reminiscent of this area in 1888. After the construction of the business-laden Commercial Street to the east, this narrow road became even more cramped and overcrowded. The original townhomes located here were so run down they were demolished in 1970. But in 1888, this part of town was where you would have found various famous lodging houses favoured by the city’s prostitutes. Two victims of the attacks in 1888 lived here at Satchell’s Lodging House and Cooley’s Lodging House.

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Emma Smith, Martha Tabram and Mary Ann Nichols stayed here off and on in 1888. But almost all of Jack’s victims stayed on this street at one time or another. Although this might seems like a huge clue tieing all the victims together, Flower and Deak Walk was simply a popular spot for the prostitutes of Whitechapel. One of the reasons it was such a hot spot was that Flower and Dean Street was made of a mixture of courts, alleys and interconnecting lanes. The perfect area for the women of the night to conduct their business out of the prying eyes public and the police. At #55 was Cooney’s Lodging House. This lodging house allowed “married” couples to bed together. But they didn’t ask for proof and this allowed prostitutes to bring home clients under the guise of calling them their “husbands”.

Osborn Street

Turn back east along Wentworth Street and stop at the crossing of Osborn Street and Old Montague Street. The old Buxton Hotel and Pub makes a great backdrop for this next story. When Martha Tabram was murdered, a huge veil of fear descended on the neighbourhood. This was because she had not been the first violent death of a prostitute that year. Earlier in April, 45-year old Emma Smith had died of her violent injuries just a few steps away in Royal London Hospital.

Emma Smith

On April 3rd, 1888 at four in the morning, Emma Smith returned to her Lodging House at 18 George Street. George Street is now gone but would have been located where we find Flower and Dean Walk today. She was covered in blood having been viciously attacked by a group of men. But Smith was a tough ol’ broad. The deputy keeper of the lodging house, Mary Russell, recounted how Smith had previously been punched in the face and thrown out a window and yet survived. She frequently returned home with black eyes and sadly was used to this type of violence.

Emma claimed that she had been walking along where we stand on Osborn Street. Then suddenly, a gang sprung at her from the darkness. They robbed her of all the money she had earned that night. But not before one of the men slashed at her with a long knife or perhaps a solider’s bayonet.

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But the time she returned home the extent of her wounds would prove fatal. Her face was slashed, her ear badly cut, and her lower abdomen was also bleeding profusely. Her bedmates pleaded with her to get to the hospital. She agreed and made her way to the hospital. But at 9 am the following day, she died of her injuries. But not before giving the police as much information as she could on the attackers.

The First Ripper Victim?

Emma Smith clearly wasn’t a victim of Jack the Ripper; they proved that she had been attacked by a group of men. Nevertheless, this violent attack on a prostitute had raised the hairs of both the police and the public. It drew attention to the violence that these unfortunate women suffered. And unlike years prior, the violence seemed to be escalating, now with the death of Martha Tabram. Despite no connection to the Ripper, her murder was the first that opened the case files entitled “The Whitechapel Murder.” This was the famous case file that contained all of the following “canonical five” Jack the Ripper victims.

Brick Lane

Turning northwards, Osborn Street turns into Brick Lane. Brick Lane was named in 1550 when two tile factories were located here. Clay could be dug right out of the wet ground used to produce bricks and tiles for the factories. These were the literal building blocks of Whitechapel’s architecture. But during the 1880s, Brick Lane was home to a variety of shops, pubs, lodging houses, and timberyards.

Today, the area is known as ‘Banglatown‘ due to the high number of Bangledesh restaurants. Bangladeshi immigrants came to this part of town to work in the clothing shops and factories. These sprung up in the 1970s and have flourished ever since. Many of the old breweries were shut down, and their large factories transformed into art and entertainment venues. Brick Lane has become a popular hipster hangout in recent years with chic vintage shops popping up further north along Brick Lane.

Frying Pan

Most of the original pubs in the area have all but disappeared. This is partly due to the large Muslim population in the area who do not drink. But at #13 Brick Lane, you can still find the building which housed the Frying Pan pub in 1888. It was here that Mary Ann Nichols, Jack’s first canonical victim, was allegedly drinking on the night of her murder. She is seen leaving the Frying Pan pub at 12:30 pm on 31st August 1888. The Frying Pan Pub was known for its clientele of prostitutes during the 19th century. It was a hot spot where unfortunates would lose their daily “doss” (lodging) money in favour of a pint of gin.

The Gin Craze

Unlike many pictures we might have in our mind of a pub in Victorian London, people weren’t typically sipping on pints of beer. Instead, they preferred large glasses of homegrown gin. “The Distillers have found out a way to hit the palate of the Poor, by their new fashion’d compound Waters called Geneva (Gin), so that the common people seem not to value the French-brandy as usual, and even not to desire it,” claimed English journalist Daniel Defoe. Gin was extremely cheap to make and much faster to get drunk off of than beer. And it got you very, very drunk.

Alcoholism in 1888

Gin was made inside large iron bathtubs in Whitechapel. It was so strong that it was known to eat through paint and iron of the tub it was made in. One can only imagine how awful it would have been to imbibe. Many unfortunate women would come to these “gin palaces” nightly for pint after pint of the stuff. Most of the women killed by Jack the Ripper were said to look much older than their actual age upon their autopsies. No doubt, early ageing was brought on by the potency of the alcohol.

The women who worked the streets of Whitechapel longed to forget their plight. Alcoholism was rampant among the poorest of Whitechapel’s residents. Although the Gin Craze was more prominent in the 18th century, it saw a resurgence in the 19th century, especially among Whitechapels prostitutes. An entire bottle of gin could be purchased for a few pence, and sadly many of these victims chose the bottle over their lodging. A choice which no doubt led to their deaths.

Old Montague Street Mortuary

Turn right down Chicksand Street toward Greatorex Street. Walking south along Greatorex Street turn left along Old Montague Street. Walking along Old Montague Street at the corner of Davenant street, you’ll find the spot wherein 1888 stood the Old Montague Street Mortuary. It was here that the bodies of the Whitechapel Murder victims Mary Ann Nichols and Annie Chapman were taken for their autopsies. But conditions inside this run-down mortuary weren’t sufficient for the high-level investigations taking place here in 1888. Dr. George Bagster Phillips was quoted as saying;

“It was under great difficulty he could make his examination, and, as on many occasions he had met with similar difficulties, he now raised his protest, as he had previously done, that members in his profession should be called upon to perform their duties in these inadequate circumstances. There were no adequate conveniences for a post-mortem examination. At particular seasons of the year, it was dangerous to the operator.“

Buck’s Row

Continue along Old Montague Street towards Whitechapel Station on Durward Street. In 1888, Durward Street was called Buck’s Row. During the 19th century, this narrow thoroughfare was lined with large warehouses and stables on the north side. On the south side, you’d find a cramped row of terraced cottages. These small cottages were considered some of the most “luxurious” accommodations in Whitechapel. It was here in Buck’s Row, outside the gateway of Brown’s Stable Yard, where Mary Ann Nichols‘ body was found. Because of the notoriety brought upon the street by the murder, Buck’s Row was renamed and renumbered Durward Street in 1892.

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Mary Ann Nichols

Mary Ann Nichols, who went by the nickname Polly, was 43-years old when she met her dark fate. She married William Nichols in 1864, and the two had five children. The two separated in 1881 after Nichols claimed that Polly had been living as a prostitute. In 1881 if a man claimed his wife was a prostitute, he would not have to pay the woman any support money. Polly’s father contested that Nichols was the one having an affair. Supposedly he was sleeping with a nurse who actually cared for Mary Ann Nichols during a difficult-bought of illness. Either way, William Nichols won the case against Mary. Leaving her with no support payments, and no choice but to go to the workhouses.

Workhouses in London

Workhouses in London were where the orphaned, elderly, sick, disabled or those simply unable to find work came to live. The workhouses were bleak places. You had to work 16 hours a day for the chance at food and a bed for the night. The food was barely edible, with bread so hard it had to be soaked in hot water to become soft enough to eat. Even the beds were smaller than the ones you’d find in prisons. The workhouses were about the worst place you could end up. Many women chose casual prostitution as an alternative. By turning to sex work women would be able to make enough money to pay their way into the more “upscale” lodging houses.

The Night of the Murder

But on the night of her murder, Wilmott’s Lodging House, on Thrawl street, had thrown Mary out. She owed the landlord too much money and couldn’t pay the fourpence for her bed that evening. Mary was seen leaving Wilmott’s Lodging House around 1 am bragging about a new bonnet she had just purchased. “I’ll soon get my doss money. See what a jolly bonnet I’ve got now.”

Mary was seen again at 2:30 am, extraordinarily drunk and staggering around Osborn Street. Her friend Emily Holland passed her on the street. Emily was already fearful for Mary after the previous two murders and tried to pay for Mary’s lodging. It was a cold and rainy evening and Emily hoped her offer would get Mary off the dark streets. But Mary wouldn’t go. She claimed that “she had had her doss money three times that day and had drunk it away, and it won’t be long before I’m back.” But that was the last time Mary Ann Nichols that would be seen alive. Somewhere between Osborn Street and this spot on Buck’s Row, Mary met with the Jack the Ripper. Perhaps along the route we just walked ourselves.

Body Discovered

One of the most interesting things about this case is how well documented the times are throughout the investigations. And these timelines help us understand how quickly Jack the Ripper worked in the utter darkness of Whitechapel. At 3:15 am PC John Thain passed down his beat along Buck’s Row and noticed nothing out of the ordinary. But by 3:40 am, Charles Cross discovered Mary Ann Nichols’s body on his way to work. He found her lying at the gateway entrance to Brown’s stableyard. When Cross and his coworker came across the body, they overlooked the extent of her injuries. They even thought they heard a heartbeat. Seeing as they didn’t want to be late for work, they arranged Nichols’ skirts to give her some decency and made plans to alert the first policemen they saw. 

But PC John Neil arrived before Cross could alert anyone. He took a better look and found her dead, her throat vigorously slashed, and her new bonnet, stained with blood, laying on the ground. Neil went to get back up and called for Dr. Llewellyn. At this time, only a doctor could pronounce someone dead, and they were, therefore, the first to the scene, even before the inspectors. Dr. Llewellyn pronounced Mary Ann Nichols dead, having passed away around 3:50 am. Meaning Charles Cross did indeed come across Mary’s body while she was still alive. Perhaps even while Jack the Ripper lurked in the darkness. 

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Autopsy of Mary Ann Nichols

Mary’s body was brought to the Old Montague Street Mortuary. It was there that they discovered her abdomen had been slashed open, exposing all her organs. The policemen on the scene didn’t see this right away because of the layers upon layers of clothing she was wearing. Remember, since she had no fixed address, Mary would have been wearing all the clothing she owned. These layers of clothing had absorbed the blood flowing from the deep gash in her stomach. 

There was no blood spray on the scene despite the deep gash to her throat and to her stomach. Early speculation was that the murder, therefore, could not have been committed on this spot in Buck’s Row. But with further analysis, they discovered that it appeared Jack would strangle the victims before mutilating them. This meant that there would be no large spray of blood when he cut their throat as the victim would have already been deceased.

The Board School

Standing right above the crime scene is the towering Old Board School building. Most of this area has been modernized, and little of Victorian London remains. But this building still stands just as it was in 1888. It was restored and its interiors are currently used as swanky apartments. But these windows are the same ones that would have looked down over the death of Mary Ann Nichols as it happened in 1888.

Whitechapel Road

Continue east along Durward street turning south along Brady Street towards Whitechapel Road. Walk east along Whitechapel Road, taking in the charming series of brick buildings along the northern side of the road. While their shop fronts are all modern conveniences, the buildings themselves stand as historical landmarks from Victorian England.

Working Lads Institute

At #279 Whitechapel Road, high up along the roof, you can make out the name of the building, “Working Lads Institute.” Above the arched entrances on either side of the building, you’ll find the words “Gymnasium And Swimming Bath” and “Lecture Hall” carved into the stone. The Working Lads Institute was created to keep local boys out of trouble. Instead of heading to the pub, these buildings provide educational classes, gymnasiums, libraries and swimming pools. Inside, these lads could find enjoyment other than the one they found inside a bottle. It’s no surprise the victims of Jack the Ripper were all women. Women had no “Working Gals Institute” to keep them from the bars at night. This is another example of how the system failed these poor women. And even contributed to their deaths.

Early Jack the Ripper Offices

The Working Lads Institute is one of the few remaining pieces of Victorian London connected to Jack the Ripper. It was here, on the second floor, where the inquests into Jack the Ripper’s victims took place. There was no official office at the time large enough for the police, coroners, doctors, and witnesses to meet and discuss the case. So when the case began to take off as a large-scale endeavour, they selected this public space as their first board room. Eventually, they required a more private and secure spot, and the investigation was moved out of the institute. But it was here that it all began!

Wood’s Buildings

A few steps down from the Working Lads Institute, you’ll find the sign for the old Wood’s Building alleyway. The Wood’s Building entrance is now closed to the public by a series of metal gates on either side. The alley was previously used for nefarious purposes with people inside selling drugs or just as a makeshift restroom off the busy Whitechapel road. But the nefarious atmosphere of Wood’s Buildings alleyway wasn’t anything new. In fact, if you could walk through here, you’d end up right at the spot where Mary Ann Nichols was murdered. It is highly suspected that Jack the Ripper used passages like this to melt away into the night without ever having been seen. Walking from the quiet, dark corners of the inner streets out into the morning market traffic of Whitechapel Road, where he would have been immediately lost amongst the crowds.

Prostitution in 1880s London

Walk west along Whitechapel Road, turning right up Vallance Road. A block north on Vallance Road, you’ll turn left onto Hanbury Street towards our next destination. The walk is about 15-minutes long. As we walk you can read more about what was going on for unfortunate women in London in 1888. The murder of Mary Ann Nichols was now the third prostitute killed in Whitechapel in 1888. Police were beginning to see a pattern and started to interview prostitutes all over the Whitechapel district. 

The Criminal Law Amendment Act

In 1885 the City of London had passed the Criminal Law Amendment Act. The act would “make further provision for the Protection of Women and Girls, the suppression of brothels, and other purposes.” One of the actions was to change the legal working age of prostitutes from thirteen to sixteen. Still shockingly young! Becoming a prostitute at such a young age would have made it almost impossible to escape that way of life. There was no assistance or education provided for these women and girls. No means by which they could climb out of a life of poverty and prostitution by means of skilled employment.

Although the city thought they were doing something to protect women by closing the brothels, they actually put them at more risk. Inside the brothels, they had the protection of four walls and sometimes armed security. But once the brothels were closed, they were forced to work on the streets. In essence, casting them out into the arms of Jack the Ripper. At the time, the police estimate that an average of 1,200 prostitutes operated in the areas around Whitechapel alone. So Jack had plenty of women to choose from.

Their Dark Fate

Prostitution in itself was not an offence, but solicitation was. Women were not allowed to approach men, but men could approach women. This also was an issue as it meant the women couldn’t pursue men they thought might be more approachable. Instead, they were forced to take whatever came their way. Prostitutes were also not allowed to loiter, so they would have to constantly keep moving. These women would have known the city like the back of their hand, even in complete darkness. And in a sick twist of fate, the women themselves would have chosen where they died. Jack would have required a quiet, hidden corner of the city to murder these women. And the prostitutes would know the best place to go, as they needed such a spot to carry out their daily sexual deeds.

29 Hanbury Street

The quiet backstreets of Hanbury street begin to squeeze together as we get closer to our next destination. It’s here, along the busy restaurant-laden alley where you’ll find a brick parking lot with the number “29” painted outside. It was here that the second canonical victim, Annie Chapman, was discovered.

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Annie Chapman

Annie Chapman, aka “Dark Annie,” was the oldest Ripper victim at 47-years old. Her nickname comes from the dark brown colour of her wavy hair. Annie was married at 28 (very late for women in Victorian England) to John Chapman. Sadly, the two divorced after having three children together, possibly due to John’s chronic alcoholism. Although Annie had been arrest multiple times for public drunkenness, she wasn’t known as a chronic alcoholic. Unlike other husbands of the time, John agreed to pay a weekly sum of 10 shillings to Annie. This kept her comfortable enough to stay off the streets for a time.

John died in 1886, and this left Annie without those 10 shillings she needed for lodging. She did her best to get some work crocheting and sewing for more affluent families. She also tried selling artificial flowers. Sadly it wasn’t enough to make ends meets. So she turned to what many women did without any other options; prostitution. In this line of work, she caught the deadly disease of syphilis, common in sex workers at the time. Ironically, if Jack didn’t end her life, she undoubtedly had little time left. Her illness was very advanced and her brain tissue had already started to degenerate due to syphilis.

The Night of Annie’s Murder

On the evening of September 8th, Annie was seen walking along Dorset Street. She ran into her friend Amelia Palmer who asked if Annie was heading out to work the street. Amelia knew Annie didn’t have the money she needed for the doss house that night. But Annie responded that she was too ill to work. She hoped that the lodging-house would take pity on her. But the night watchman who came to collect her bed rent cast her outside. Telling her to come back when she had the money to pay for her bed.

So despite being so ill and the rain beating down, Annie heads back out to find a client. She was seen by fellow sex worker Elizabeth Long at 5:30 am talking to a man outside 29 Hanbury Street. Elizabeth knew it was precisely 5:30 as she heard the clock on the Black Eagle Brewery (which still exists) strike the five and a half-hour. Famously she overheard him saying to her, “Will you?” to which Annie replies, “I will.“

Annie’s Body is Discovered

The direness of Whitechapel was such that next-door neighbour Albert Cadosch heard Annie crying “no!” But cries like this were commonly placed in Whitechapel. Cadosch went about using the outhouse and returned inside without alerting anyone to the noise. Annie’s body was discovered a little before 6:00 am by John Davis, who lived on the third floor of #29 Hanbury. He came into the garden to use the outhouse himself and found her lying dead beside the fence.

Her throat had been cut so several of the men who found her thought it was barely hanging on. The body was terribly mutilated. Unlike Mary Ann Nichols, she had been dead for a time, as her limbs had already begun to stiffen. Even most disturbing was the body had been disembowelled and the killer had deftly cut out Annie Chapman’s womb. And taken it with him.

This time, the police got a little more information about the killing. The blade used would have been longer than a common pocket or kitchen knife. They also found that the removal of her anatomy would have required some professional or anatomical knowledge.

Leather Apron

Found near the scene of the crime was a man’s leather apron. It was discovered in the corner of the garden. Women in and around Hanbury street jumped to accuse a man they called “Leather Apron” of the crimes. His name was brought up repeatedly even though there was little to tie the apron found to the crime. It could have easily been there long before the murder took place. Nevertheless, this nickname would go on to be one of the most famous nicknames for the Ripper. 

Many of Whitechapels prostitutes were being extorted by the man they called “Leather Apron.” He would approach the prostitutes with a knife and threaten to “rip them apart” if they didn’t hand over their cash. He was called “Leather Apron” as he was frequently seen wearing a butcher’s uniform consisting of a large leather apron.

The Newspaper Tabloids

By this time, the newspapers had begun the report on the murders. And they saw an immediate uptick in their sales. This was the first tabloid sensation, and the newspaper wanted to capitalize on this craze. Their reporters hit the streets almost as aggressively as the police. Some reporters even dressing up as prostitutes in the hopes of catching the Ripper themselves.

The leading newspaper which was reporting on the murders was ‘The Star.’ Despite the police’s best efforts, their witnesses told the press about Leather Apron. And the press ran with the headline: “LEATHER APRON THE ONLY NAME LINKED WITH THE WHITECHAPEL MURDERS. THE STRANGE CHARACTER WHO PROWLS ABOUT AFTER MIDNIGHT. UNIVERSAL FEAR AMONG WOMEN – SLIPPERED FEET AND A SHARP LEATHER-KNIFE.” In the article, they gave the same description as the women gave the police. But they also added a few embellishments that would mar the case forever.

Anit-Semitism in London

The Star claimed that “all are united in the belief that he is a Jew or of Jewish parentage, his face being of a marked Hebrew type.” None of this was confirmed by the police. In fact, all the women couldn’t describe his appearance as they said a deerstalker hat hid his face. During this time in London, antisemitism was rampant. Jewish people began migrating to London in the 18th century. By 1888, over 3,000 Jewish immigrants were living in Whitechapel. Much to the chagrin of the racist English population.

The locals believed an Englishman couldn’t possibly be responsible for these awful crimes. So they placed their blame directly on the Jewish community despite no clear evidence. The police were greatly concerned about this wave of antisemitism. They were attempting the quell this anger and fear before the pot boiled over into full-scale anti-Jewish rioting. The newspapers on the other hand were seemingly trying to turn up the heat…

Wilkes Street & Fournier Street

Walk to Wilkes Street where you can turn south towards Fournier Street. Wilkes Street and Fournier Street are two of the most incredible examples of what East London would have looked in 1888. These are my favourite architectural spots in the entirety of this tour. And the perfect place for a photo op. The buildings are incredible examples of Victorian architecture. And since none of the murders occurred here taking a cute selfie or picture of yourself down these alleys feels much more appropriate.

Frederick George Abberline

After the murder of Annie Chapman, inspector Frederick George Abberline of the Metropolitan Police joined in the team of detectives on the hunt for the killer. Frederick George Abberline has been working in the neighbourhood of Whitechapel for 14 years as a patrolling officer. He has been recently promoted and was selected as the primary officer on the case. This was in the hopes that his knowledge of the locals and the area would prove invaluable.

But even the most knowledgeable officer who lived in the area found the spiderweb-like network of alleys and underground tunnels impossible to patrol. Unlike straight and narrow streets in America, the twisting passageways which spread out across Whitechapel meant that an officer could lose sight of someone he was following in the blink of an eye. The police were at a huge disadvantage. The rate of expansion in the area did not correlate with the staffing in the police department. The population was rapidly growing, and the police force was constantly overworked and understaffed.

The Ten Bells Spitalfields

Walking west towards Commercial Street from Fournier Street, you’ll find the most famous of all the Jack the Ripper sights. This is the great Ten Bells Spitalfields Pub. This pub is so important to the history of Jack the Ripper as it’s one of the only places you can still visit and have a drink inside. Nearly all of the victims were known to frequent the Ten Bells Pub to indulge in a glass of gin to numb the pain of their existence. I suggest you do the same

Stop inside to give your legs a little break and take in the atmosphere of this historical landmark. It was here that both Annie Chapman and Mary Jane Kelly had a drink just before they met their untimely end. Despite this connection, the pub has tried to shake off the association with the murders. Inside you’ll find no posters or memorabilia on the walls dedicated to Jack the Ripper.

Christ Church Spitalfields

Standing outside the Ten Bells pub, on the corner of Commercial Street and Fournier Street, two more buildings from 1888 remain. These buildings would have been ones the girls and Jack would have passed every day on their way to work. Or while stalking his victims. The first and most imposing is Christ Church Spitalfields. This church has been a beacon for the residents of Spitalfields since the 1700s. Its large clock face, atop the tower, is viewable above most buildings in Spitalfield. This was one of the only ways residents could tell the time back in 1888. The peaked tower also served as an easy-to-find meeting point for people all over the city.

Spitalfields Market

The other large Victorian building dominating Commercial Street is Spitalfields Market. The Spitalfields Market has existed here in some form or another since the 1600s. But the current building was constructed in 1887, just before the murder, and opened by Queen Victoria herself. The space inside Spitalfields Market is today a hip marketplace with vintage clothing sellers, bakers and artisans.

Queens Head Pub

Walking south along Commercial Street, at #74, you’ll find the Queens Head Pub. It was inside this pub where Elizabeth Stride (Jack’s next victim) spent the last of her doss house money. The old signage outside on the facade corner has been restored by the architects who now own the building.

The Princess Alice Pub

A few ways down at #40 Commercial street was where you’d have found the Princess Alice Pub in 1888. This pub was another popular spot for the prostitutes in the East End. But it was here that the popular suspect ‘Leather Apron‘ was a frequent patron. Leather Apron was identified as John Pizer. Pizer was a Polish Jewish who worked as a boot finisher. And a leather apron would have been a uniform of his trade. Pizer was commonly referred to as “Leather Apron”, and once his name got into the papers, his family feared for his life.

Thinking an angry mob would come to bring him to the police, he escaped to the countryside. You see, John Pizer had a prior conviction for a stabbing offence. AND he was suspected of a string of assaults on local prostitutes. But after the press coverage was mounting he was pressured into turning himself in. After much questioning by the police, he was released. Pized, as bad of a guy as he was, had two solid alibies for his whereabouts during the murders. Pizer had been at work during the murders and seen by more than a dozen other people. He was then ruled out as a suspect.

Henriques Street

Continue walking south along Commercial Street and stay with it as it crosses Whitechapel Road. Turn left when you reach Henriques Street and walk towards the iron gates of Harry Gosling Primary school. Henriques Street was called Berner Street in 1888. It was here that Jack’s fourth victim was found. Elizabeth Stride, or “Long Liz” as she was called, would be the first of two victims on September 30th. A night which would go by the infamous name “the double event.”

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Elizabeth Stride

Born in Gothenburg, Sweden, Elizabeth Stride came to London in 1866. She married John Stride, and the two lived a pretty good life together. They opened a coffee shop on Chrisp Street in 1870. Sadly her husband died in 1884, leaving Elizabeth with no way of making money.

Liz made most of her money from sewing, and only on very infrequent occasions did she work the streets. After leaving the Queen’s Head Pub she was seen on Berner Street by labourer William Marshall at 11:45 pm. He saw her in the doorway of 63 Berner Street talking to a man. The man wore a short black cutaway coat and sailor’s hat. They had been kissing, and he overheard the man say to Liz, “You would say anything...but your prayers.” A phrase that has been long repeated in Ripper stories.

Dutfield’s Yard

A few hours later, at 1:00 am, local jewellery seller, Louis Diemschutz, attempted to enter Dutfield’s Yard off Berner Street. Diemschutz was travelling home, as he did every night, with his cart and pony. The pony had walked this route hundreds of times before. But on this night, the pony was frightened by something and pulled left of the middle of the road. Louis Diemschutz jumped out of the cart to see what was wrong. In the darkness of the night, felt around with his whip and felt a large bundle on the ground. He figured it was his wife, asleep drunk in the streets as she had done many nights before. He lit a match and made out the shape of a woman but couldn’t see her face

He led the pony in the darkness into the yard and went into a local club to get a lantern. But when he entered, he found his wife safe and sound inside. He took a lantern with him into the yard, and it was there he discovered Elizabeth Stride’s body. But unlike the rest of the victims, only her throat was cut, and her body was still warm. In the darkness of the night when Louis Diemschutz got off his pony, it’s safe to assume that Jack the Ripper was interrupted. It’s safe to assume that if Diemschutz had had a lantern with him, he would have come face to face with the killer.

The Ripper Flees

Having almost been caught in the act, Jack the Ripper fled the scene. But he couldn’t rest just yet. He didn’t finish the job, and in a mad lust for mutilation, he went to find another victim. And Jack knew just where to go. We walk now in his rushed footsteps towards Saint Botolph Without Aldgate church. No doubt Jack would have taken the back streets, but we will retrace our steps along Commercial street and head west along Whitechapel Road.

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Catherine Eddowes

Catherine Eddowes, a.k.a. Kate Kelly, was a scholarly woman of 46-years old but one who was possessed of a fierce temper. She entered into a partnership with Thomas Conway in 1862 when Eddowes was only 20 years old. But the two split in 1881 after having three children. Catherine got together with John Kelly shortly after her split with Conway, and the two were known to be a cheery couple.

In 1881, they moved into Cooney’s Lodging House at #55 Flower and Dean Street. Unlike the other women, Eddowes and Kelly had pretty steady jobs. During the summers would go to the countryside to go hop picking. Upon their return to the city in September 1888, they could not find any lodging houses for couples. Eddowes gave John Kelly some money to get himself a room in the men’s wards. Eddowes said she would head over to another lodging house on Shoe Lane to find herself a single bed.

Catherine Eddowes Arrest on September 30th

Eddowes went out but clearly found herself at the bar. At 8:30 pm on the night of the double event, Catherine Eddowes was found drunk by PC Louis Robinson during his rounds outside 29 Aldgate High Street. Eddowes lying in the streets and picked up by PC Louis Robinson, who took her into Bishopsgate Police Station. After sobering up, around 1:00 am, she was released.

Saint Botolph Without Aldgate

Bishopsgate Police Station is located much nearer to her lodging house than where her body was found in Mitre’s square. Which was far south of the police station. Catherine Eddowes made her way from the police station, 10-minutes down the road to Saint Botolph Without Aldgate church. Every night, 200 prostitutes would circle this church, as they could not be seen loitering. This church was once known as “prostitute island,” and it was one of the most notorious places for men to pick up prostitutes in the entire city. Catherine Eddowes knew this, and so did Jack the Ripper. On the run from Berner Street, Jack the Ripper would have made his way here to finish what he started with Elizabeth Stride.

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Saint James’s Passage

Catherine Eddowes was spotted at 1:35 am at the corner of Saint James’s Passage, which leads directly into Mitres Square. She was spotted by three separate men. But only one, Joseph Lawende, got a look at the man with whom she was speaking. 

A few rogue street lamps cast enough light on the scene for Lawende to see the couple. He never saw Eddowes’ face, as she had her back to him, but he could identify her by the clothing she was wearing. Lawende provided the police with a detailed description of the man. But only days later, he claimed that if he saw the man again, he wouldn’t recognize him. 

Jack the Ripper Spotted

At the time, Lawende told the police that the man he saw talking to Eddowes was around 30 years old, 5 foot 9 inches tall, with a medium build. The man had a fair complexion and a small fair moustache. He sported a reddish neckerchief, tied in a knot, wore a pepper-and-salt coloured, loose-fitting jacket. The suspect had on a grey, peaked cloth cap. Because Lawende saw this man with Eddowes just 15-minutes before her dead body was discovered means that Lawende would no doubt have seen the real face of the Ripper.

Mitre Square

Mitres square was enclosed by massive series of warehouses with only a few houses around the central courtyard. Warehouses contained valuable goods, and in an area as poor as Whitechapel, they were ripe for robbery. So privately paid police officers surveyed the areas every 15-minutes. They were rigorously monitored and would not have missed their patrol for fear of being fired. PC Edward Watkins patrolled the square at 1:30 am with nothing to report.

Mitres square was an advantageous spot for a murder. There were three separate entrances in and out of the courtyard. This meant even if Jack was caught in the act, he could escape without running into the witnesses. Perhaps Jack had been here before and already knew this spot well.

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Catherine’s Body is Discovered

At 1:45 am, PC Edward Watkins came back just as he had 15-minutes prior. But this time, he discovered Catherine’s horrifically mutilated body, found in the absolute darkest corner of the square. This means that the Ripper did all his dastardly work in the span of just 15-minutes. PC Edward Watkins reeled back by what he saw. Catherine Eddowes lay in a large pool of blood. Her clothes were pulled up over her waist, revealing her large stomach lacerations. Watkins ran to a nearby townhouse where a retired police officer worked as a night watchman. They quickly ran to get Dr. George William Sequeira from a nearby street to pronounce the woman’s death at 1:55 pm.

The officer found her on her back with her intestines drawn out of her body. A piece of her intestines was found several feet away from her body in an apparent dark design. This time the Ripper even smeared feculent matter over her body. He had brutally cut away at her womanhood, tearing the lower portion of her body to the point of it being unrecognizable. He even went so far as to stab her liver with an apparently pointed instrument and take a part of her kidney with him.

Her face was brutally mutilated, and some of the cuts went right down to the bone. Even her earlobes had been cut away. The scene proved to everyone that Jack wasn’t finished yet. And more than that, he was escalating the gruesomeness of his attacks.

The Autopsy of Catherine Eddowes

The coroner attested that “the perpetrator of the act must have had considerable knowledge of the position of the organs in the abdominal cavity and the way of removing them. It required a great deal of medical knowledge to remove the kidney and know where it was placed. The parts removed would be of no use for any professional purpose.”

The City of London Police

Catherine’s death in Mitres Square was important as it was located just inside the walls of the ancient City of London. Until now, all the murders had occurred in the jurisdiction of the London Metropolitan Police. But Mitres square was in the City of London. This meant the crimes now took on two sets of police. Inspector Edward Collard arrived from Bishopsgate Police Station and ordered an immediate search of the neighbourhood. Police spread throughout the city like wildfire to Jack on the run. They were instructed to even make door-to-door inquiries, yet Jack seemed to simply slip away into the night.

Goulston St

But as Jack seemed to evade police, he was in a rush that he left behind his only piece of evidence. We can follow his footsteps east along St Botolph Street, north up Middlesex Street, then turning right onto Goulston Street.

At around 2:20 am, when the body arrived at the mortuary, they noticed that a fragment of the woman’s apron had been ripped offer. Perhaps taken as a token for the killer. The police on patrol searched the streets, and this segment of the apron was found by PC Alfred Long along Goulston Street. He had previously searched the streets at 2:20 am and found nothing but at 2:55 am he discovered the apron. It was lying on the floor inside a doorway. The apron looked like it had been used to wipe away the blood, perhaps off the killer’s hands.

Because this piece of evidence ties us to Jack, it is interesting to consider why he would come this way. The streets to the east were cramped with many more residents who could have come upon him. He could have fled to the north where there were few police and more places to hide. The one major piece of speculation was that he was going home. Where he knew he could escape from the prowling hoards of police officers. This was a major break in the case as it seemed to solidify their theory that Jack lived locally.

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Mysterious Graffito

Once PC Alfred Long had discovered the bloody piece of apron, he thought there might be another victim close by. So he searched the area further. Above the doorway where he found the apron, he found a message scrawled in chalk which read, “The Juwes are the men that will not be blamed for nothing.” When other PCs came to the scene, there was a real sense of dread. If the graffito was indeed written by Jack it was sure to cause a newspaper sensation. Which was sure to stoke the fires of antisemitism already on the rise.

In perhaps one of the biggest mistakes in the case, the graffito was wiped away. In the hope of hiding it from the press. But this meant that the handwriting could not be analyzed and compared to the other letters the police had received. Today, you can head into the Happy Days Fish and Chip Shop to dine on some delicious food and study a miniature recreation of the graffito left behind that day.

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From Hell Letters

Until this point, the name “Jack the Ripper” had yet to enter the mouths of people around London. Many hoaxes and prank letters, some count up to 700, passed through the police department. But almost all were quickly dismissed as false. But on September 27th, one letter caught the interest of inspectors but, more importantly, the newspapers.

It read:

Dear Boss,

I keep on hearing the police have caught me, but they won’t fix me just yet. I have laughed when they look so clever and talk about being on the right track. That joke about Leather Apron gave me real fits. I am down on whores, and I shan’t quit ripping them till I do get buckled. Grand work the last job was. I gave the lady no time to squeal.

How can they catch me now? I love my work and want to start again. You will soon hear of me with my funny little games. I saved some of the proper red stuff in a ginger beer bottle over the last job to write with, but it went thick like glue, and I can’t use it. Red ink is fit enough, I hope, haha.

The next job I do, I shall clip the lady’s ears off and send to the police officers just for jolly, wouldn’t you? Keep this letter back till I do a bit more work, then give it out straight.

My knife’s so nice and sharp. I want to get to work right away if I get a chance.

Good Luck.

Yours truly

Jack the Ripper

Don’t mind me giving the trade name. Wasnt good enough to post this before I got all the red ink off my hands; curse it. No luck yet. They say I’m a doctor now. haha”

The letter was posted just a few days before the double murder. The part regarding “clipping the lady’s ears off” was particularly interesting as Catharine Eddowes’s earlobes had been so badly mutilated. The letter was also written in red ink with bloodstains, which could have been from one of his previous victims.

Saucy Jack

With almost no leads, the police thought they would release the letter to the public in the hopes of getting some help from the locals. Shortly after publishing this in the newspaper, another postcard came in that was of interest to the police. This one was also addressed to “the boss” and signed Jack the Ripper in the same hand as the previous letter. It read:

“I was not codding dear old Boss when I gave you a tip; you’ll hear about Saucy Jacky’s work tomorrow double event this time number one squealed a bit couldn’t finish straight off had not the time to get ears for police. Thanks for keeping the last letter back till I got to work again.”

Jack the Ripper.

The postcard was post-marked October 1st, the day after the double event. So whoever wrote it, if it wasn’t Jack himself, would have had to copy the handwriting very quickly to get the letter into the post box quick enough to fool the police.

The Workhouse

Continue walking north along Goulston Street, which turns into Bell Lane. On the northwest corner, we can find one of Spitalfields’ oldest workhouses. You can find two entrances around the corner, one with the words “women” carved above and the other with the words “men.” This was because the men and women were separated inside these workhouses.

Every day around 200 men and women people would queue up outside in the hopes of getting a free bed and meal for the day in exchange for 16 hours of hard, hard labour. The beds were coffin-shaped boxes and sometimes were shared between two or more people. The situation was so dire that if they ran out of bed, they would hang ropes to the wall and then tie people onto the ropes to sleep. This is where we get the term “hangers-on.“

Artillery Passage

Take a quick look down the Artillery Passage as this slice of the East End really is evocative of 1888s. And it is a rumour that this street was the exact location that ended up being the inspiration for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter.

13 Millers Court

The last spot on our tour was where Jack the Ripper committed his most heinous crime. But the building and street where this murder took place has since been destroyed. #13 Millers Court was located along Dorset Street, which ran east-west from Crispin Street to Commercial Street. But when the Corporation of London bought the Spitalfields Market in 1920, they demolished the north side of Dorset Street. This allowed them to expand the market into what is now the Fruit Exchange. But many of the side streets off Commercial Street can still evoke the feeling of what was once Miller’s Court. Take a walk down White’s Row, just behind the Workhouse. Walking along White’s Row you can even see the back of the buildings that would have faced into Miller’s Court.

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Dorset Street

In 1888, Dorset street was home to several pubs, artisan workshops and, of course, lodging houses. In 1898, George Duckworth said of Dorset street, “The worst street I have seen so far – thieves, prostitutes, bullies, all common lodging houses. Some called ‘doubles’ with double beds for married couples but merely another name for brothels. Women bedraggled, torn skirts, dirty, unkempt, square jaws standing about in the street or on doorsteps.“

Mary Jane Kelly

Mary Jane Kelly was the last and the youngest victim of Jack the Ripper. She was just 25 years old. Perhaps because of her young age, little is known about Mary Jane Kelly’s life. Anyone who knew her said she was a very kindly girl, and if she wasn’t in the liquor, she was a quiet woman. Most of the information we have about Mary Kelly comes from Joseph Barnett, her former lover. And anyone who has had a former lover knows that this information is bound to be slightly biased. She was married at the young age of 16, but her husband was killed in an explosion. After that, she went into prostitution to make ends meet and moved to London in 1884.

She began working in a high-class brothel in the West End as she was a pretty young thing. In 1886 she went to live in Cooley’s Lodging House in Spitalfield, where she met Joseph Barnett. The two tried to live a stable life without the prostitution. But, in September 1888, amid the Ripper murders, Barnett lost his job. With no money coming in, Mary Jane decided to return to the streets. Mary was a good-hearted woman and took a shine to the younger prostitutes she worked with. If they didn’t have enough money to pay for their rooms, she would invite them inside the room she shared with Barnett.

November 8th, 1888

This was the last straw for Barnett, and the two separated. The two tried to stay friends but it was obvious to everyone that Barnett had stronger feelings for Mary than she had for him. Interestingly, on the night of her murder, Barnett and Kelly fought loudly with each other. Their argument was heard by many of their neighbours. A window was broken and Barnett was seen storming out that night.

Hutchinson’s Account

On November 8th, 1888, Mary Kelly was known to be drinking at the Ten Bells Pub. She was seen with a woman named Elizabeth Foster until around 11:45 pm. Mary came home around 12:30 am when she was heard loudly singing outside her room. Causing quite the disturbance to the other residence. Around 2 am George Hutchinson sees Mary Kelly, and she asks him if he can lend her sixpence as she has fallen behind on her rent. He has nothing to spare, so she tells George Hutchinson that “I must go and find some money” and walks off in the direction of Thrawl Street.

Mary at the Queen’s Head Pub

Hutchinson watches Mary as she heads off to the Queen’s Head Pub, where she meets with a man. They stand together under the street light, and Hutchinson can make out a description of the man. He testified that he was 5′ 6″ or 5′ 7″ tall and about 35 or 36 years old. According to Hutchinson, he had a pale complexion, a slight moustache turned up at the corners, dark hair, dark eyes, and a “Jewish appearance.”

The man was wearing a soft felt hat pulled down over his eye and a long dark coat with a black necktie. He carried gloves in his right hand and a small package in his left. One can only wonder what was in this package. This was the last time Mary Kelly would be seen alive. And the man she was seen with by Hutchinson was doubtlessly Jack the Ripper.

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Mary’s Body Discovered

At 4 am that night, Elizabeth Prater, who lived upstairs from Mary Kelly, heard the cry of “Oh, murder!” But once more, since the cry of murder was frequently heard in the district, she paid no attention to it and went back to bed. People in bar fights and streets brawls would often cry out, “oh murder” to get more attention from local police so Prater simply thought it was a street fight.

The following day, John McCarthy, the lodging house owner, sends Thomas Bowyer to collect past due rent money from Mary Kelly. Bowyer knocks on the door, but there is no answer. Knowing there is a broken window, he reaches inside to push away the curtains to see if anyone is home. When he does, he is the first to glimpse what was left of Mary Kelly’s body. Upon seeing the walls painted in blood, and her lifeless body, he runs back to inform McCarthy.

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Inspectors Enter the Scene

The two go to the Commercial Street Police Station to let Inspector Walter Beck know of the murder. There was a very long delay between the time the body was found and the time the police entered the room. The police had been misinformed that bloodhounds were on their way. They hoped the hounds might be able to track the scent and find Jack the Ripper. But the hounds never arrived, and eventually, Superintendent Thomas Arnold took an axe to the door and entered the room.

The first person to enter the room was Inspectors Walter Dew and Walter Beck. Dew recalled in his memoirs;

“As my thoughts go back to Miller’s Court, and what happened there, the old nausea, indignation and horror overwhelm me still… My mental picture of it remains as shockingly clear as though it were but yesterday…No savage could have been more barbaric. No wild animal could have done anything so horrifying.“

Inside Mary Kelly’s Room

What they found would be a scene that none of the officers present could ever forget. Since this was Jack’s first murder indoors, he had plenty of time to do his dark work. No one would interrupt him, and he had clearly indulged in the opportunity. Her clothes were neatly folded on the chair, and her boots were even set in front of the fireplace as if they were put out to dry. Mary was lying naked on the bed. The whole of the surface of the abdomen and thighs had been removed. And the abdominal cavity emptied of its viscera. The uterus and kidneys with one breast was found under her head. The other breast by the right foot, the liver between the feet, the intestines by the right side and the spleen by the left side of the body.

The flaps removed from the abdomen and thighs were almost neatly folded on the bedside table. Her face was torn apart, leaving her all but unrecognizable as a human being. The tissues of the neck were severed cut down to the bone. But her eyes, they were preserved. Dew said, “…the poor woman’s eyes. They were wide open, and seemed to be staring straight at me with a look of terror.“

The Lasting Effect of Jack the Ripper

Although her gruesome death is unforgettable, it is seen as the last murder by the Ripper. Although there were several murders in the next few months which bared some similarities to the Ripper they were all ruled out as being done by the same man. To this day, only the five canonical women (Mary Ann Nichols, Annie Chapman, Elizabeth Stride, Catherine Eddowes, and Mary Jane Kelly) are considered victims of Jack the Ripper.

Despite their grizzly deaths of these innocent women, they didn’t die entirely in vain. The deaths were reported widely in the paper, and it caught international attention. Newspapers as far off as New York City were reporting on the murders in Whitechapel. It drew attention to the fact that a city as prosperous as London could have such abject poverty contributing to the deaths of these innocents. People found it appealing to read about the conditions these unfortunate women lived in what they thought was a modern city.

A Change in Whitechapel

In fact, George Bernard Shaw was quoted as saying (in a tongue-in-cheek manner) that perhaps the murders were committed to for the sole purpose of bringing attention to the slums and to bring about social change. And not long after the murders, reform came to Whitechapel. The church of England and the Samaritans got involved and helped take young kids off the streets, so they didn’t fall into prostitution. They also provided more assistance for the poor in Whitechapel and Spitalfields.

Due to the lack of street lighting, Jack the Ripper could hide almost in plain sight. This resulted in the city investing more money into illuminating the dark alleys of the East End. Even today, cities find that installing additional lighting correlates with a crime reduction. Its easy to see how the deaths of the canonical five change Whitechapel foreer and their memories live on through the reform seen across the neighbourhood.

So Who was Jack the Ripper?

So who was Jack the Ripper? Unfortunately, no one knows. Even the FBI has investigated this case and still, no one suspect has ever been clearly identified as the killer. Many people think its the mystery that keeps people so interested in the story even all these years later. Everyone is hoping to solve the mystery, if not just for themselves.

White Hart Pub

To end our tour why don’t you head over to the White Hart Pub on Whitechapel Road. This is the location where one of the suspects in the case even worked as a barber back in 1888! It is an old-fashioned pub that provides the perfect atmosphere for discussions into the identity of Jack the Ripper. The police, detectives and investigators themselves would have spent night after night in pubs like this discussing the motives and mannerisms of this monster. And even Jack the Ripper himself might have been drinking one a few feet away from where they sat.

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The Suspects

Over 2,000 people were interviewed during police investigation in the 1888s. Upwards of 300 people were investigated, and 80 people were detained. Entire books have been written on the subject of the suspects who might have been Jack the Ripper. Although there are hundreds of conspiracies and suspects, there are a few clear front runners. These are the ones who many professionals and investigators stand behind as their chief suspects. Discuss amongst yourself over a pint of beer, or better yet, a glass of gin. See if you can all agree on your pick for the identity of Jack the Ripper!

The FBI Profile

In 1998, an FBI profile was compiled by John Douglas of the National Centre for the Analysis of Violent Crime. The findings can give an idea of the key aspects of the murderer, which are important in identifying the killer.

• He was a White male, aged 28 to 36
• He lived or worked in the Whitechapel area as he had extensive knowledge of the area.
• In childhood, there was an absent or passive father figure.
• The killer probably had a profession in which he could legally experience his destructive tendencies and wouldn’t be put off by the sight of blood.
• Jack the Ripper probably ceased his killing because he was either arrested for some other crime, died or felt himself close to being discovered as the killer.
• The killer probably had some sort of physical defect, which was the source of a great deal of frustration or anger and may have had a hatred of women for their treatment of him resulting from this defect.

Although the real killer might not have all these characteristics, they provide a good framework for ruling out or focusing on suspects.

The Royal Conspiracy

I’ll say right off the bat that the famous “Royal Conspiracy,” which was made famous in a 1976 book by Stephen Knight and popularized in the 2001 movie ‘From Hell‘, is out and out fiction. The theory goes that Prince Albert Victor, son of Queen Victoria and next in line to the throne, married and fathered a child of a local Whitechapel unfortunate. To cover up the secret marriage between the second-in-line to the throne, the queen employed freemason and retired notable physician Sir William Gull. Stephen Knight got the information for his book from a descendant of painter Walter Sickert. Sickert claimed that Prince Albert Victor was an apprentice under Sickert and told Sickert of the crimes. After the book was published through the family member admitted the story was nothing but a hoax. It does make for good fiction, though.

Seweryn Antonowicz Kłosowski

Seeing as we are drinking inside the White Hart pub, we should first talk about Seweryn Antonowicz Kłosowski, aka George Chapman. Seweryn Antonowicz Kłosowski was a Polish immigrant who came to London between 1887 and 1888. He changed his name to George Chapman to assimilate into the antisemitic neighbourhood of East London. He moved into the Whitechapel area and worked as a barber under Ludwig Schloski at this very spot on Whitechapel Road in 1888. Unlike some of the other suspects on this list, Kłosowski was undoubtedly a killer. Although his suspicion as Jack the Ripper is just that, suspicion. 

Kłosowski had multiple “wives” over the years, although he never married any of them legally. When his last “wife,” Maud Marsh, died in 1902, people suspected foul play. When her body was examined, they determined she had been poisoned to death. Police immediately began questioning Kłosowski, and they found that his previous two wives had also died under questionable circumstances. They were all exhumed, and their bodies examined. Each one of them had been poisoned with the same compound tartar-emetic as Maud Marsh. Kłosowski was hanged for his crimes in 1903. 

Frederick Abberline Top Suspect

But after this discovery, Ripper investigator Frederick Abberline began looking into Kłosowski as his serial killer. Famously, Abberline’s favourite suspect was indeed Seweryn Kłosowski. Abberline interview Chapman’s last wife (who somehow survived), who told Abberline some horrifying details about his now main suspect. Chapman married Lucie Badewski in 1889, and they had two children. Lucie told Abberline that while she was pregnant, Klosowski had attacked her and told her that he planned to kill her and cover up the crime. Lucie recalled that during the Autumn of Terror of 1888, her husband would frequently go out during the night for hours and come back just before dawn.

Klosowski’s Knife

Abberline also found out that Klosowski had lived in the United States in 1891. While he was there, he “married” another woman Lucy Klosowska. Klosowska recalled that one day Klosowski forced her down on the bed and began to strangle her, only stopping when he heard a customer enter their shop. When he got up to leave, Klosowska found a long knife under his pillow. He reportedly later told her that he had planned to behead her, even pointing out where he would have buried her and reciting what he would have said to their neighbours.

All of this seems poignant, yet many professionals have pointed out the biggest issue with Seweryn Kłosowski as the killer is that most serial killers do not change the modus operandi so easily. From brutal mutilation of random prostitutes to poisoning his wives. This, in addition to the lack of any hard evidence, leaves us only to wonder.

Aaron Kosminski 

Aaron Kosminski was another Polish-born Jew who proved to be one of the most popular Jack the Ripper case subjects. And in recent years, the complications around his involvement have only become more convoluted. Kosminski moved to Whitechapel in 1880. It is important to note that his father did not come with the rest of the family when they immigrated. 

Barber-surgeons in Victorian England

When Kosminski arrived, he started working as an apprentice barber. It’s important to remember that barbers in Victorian London did more than just cut hair. Barber-surgeons, as they were called, provided grooming services as well as performed dental extractions, bloodletting, cupping therapy, minor surgeries and occasional amputations. Meaning any barber would have some basic anatomical knowledge.

In 1888, Kosminski lived either on Providence Street or Greenfield Street, both of which addresses are close to the sites of the murders. Aaron Kosminski was a troubled man with paranoid schizophrenia. His insanity took the form of auditory hallucinations, a refusal to wash or bathe, and “self-abuse.” In 1890, Kosminski was placed in a workhouse due to his worsening mental illness. The deterioration of his mental state does also coincides with the end of the Jack the Ripper Murders. In 1891, Kosminski was institutionalized after he threatened a woman with a knife. He was held at Leavesden Asylum until he died in 1919.

Sir Melville Macnaghten’s Memo

Years later, in 1959, a memo from Sir Melville Macnaghten, the Assistant Chief Constable of the London Metropolitan Police, was discovered. The memo dated in 1894 named a few of Macnaghten’s top suspects, including a Polish Jew called “Kosminski.” Macnaghten noted that his Kosminski matched the description of the Ripper and was even identified as the Ripper by a witness. But the witness refused to testify against a fellow Jew.

The DNA Connection

In 2019, the Journal of Forensic Sciences published a study that claimed DNA from Kosminski and Catherine Eddowes was found on the shawl. This immediately sounds like a huge break in the case, but many people have dismissed these claims as unreliable. The shawl was bought at auction by an amateur Riiperologist who aimed to solve the case for himself. But the provenance of the shaw is very sketchy, to say the least. And the apparent DNA analysis is only tenuously linked to Kosminski and Catherine Eddowes.

In addition to the flimsy DNA analysis, Kosminski’s behaviour in the asylum is also at odds with a typical serial kill. He was described as harmless, and many psychological experts state that a killer like this would brag about his crimes. There is not a single piece of evidence to suggest he even knew about the crimes based on a discussion he had during his almost 30 years in the asylum.

Joseph Barnett

If you remember when we spoke about the final victim Mary Jane Kelly, you might recall the name Joseph Barnett. Joseph Barnett was the ex-lover of Kelly’s and is one of the more interesting suspects in the case. The theory goes that Barnett was obsessed with Mary Kelly and hated that she was prostituting herself to other men. When he read about the murder of Matha Tabram, he saw how visibly shaken up Mary Kelly was after the fact. Even giving up going out at night for a few weeks. But when Barnett lost his job as a fish porter and Mary returned to work, Barnett felt he needed to do something drastic.

Murder For the Love of a Woman

In an attempt to “scare” Kelly off the streets, Barnett went about his own murder press. My murdering not only prostitute but also people which Mary Kelly was proved to have known he felt this would entice he even further to give up the job for good. But on that fabled night in November 1888, when Barnett and Kelly fought in her apartment, it was perhaps made clear to Barnett for the first time that Kelly would never love Barnett the way Barnett loved Kelly.

In a jealous rage, he waited until the man she was with on the night of November 9th left and slipped inside, through the broken window he no doubt had smashed earlier and killed Kelly in a lover frenzy. The extent of her wounds suggested to many detectives of fury only a scorned lover or close contact could possess towards the victim. In addition to this, it was with the death of Mary Kelly that the ceased.

Barnett Fits the Profile 

Barnett fit the physical description of the Ripper very well. Joseph’s father died when he was six, leaving him without a strong father figure. Barnett was 30-years old, with a moustache, fair complexion, medium build and was about 5′ 7″. He also lived within a mile of Whitechapel his entire life. He would have had very detailed knowledge of the area. Barnett worked as a fish porter and undoubtedly was experienced in deboning and gutting fish, so the sight of butchering a woman wouldn’t be too much of a stretch. Barnett was also speculated to have had echolalia, a psychiatric disorder resulting in a speech impediment.

Despite all these glaring similarities to the FBI profile of the killer, Barnett was interviewed by police for only four hours after Mary Kelly’s murder. For one reason or another, they seemed uninterested in pursuing him as a prime suspect. I certainly can’t understand why the police wouldn’t have followed this lead further. In my opinion, he is my top choice for who I think was indeed Jack the Ripper.

But who do you think he was? Let me know in the comments!

I hope you enjoyed this tour and learned more about life in London in 1888, in addition to these dark tales of Jack the Ripper. 

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

Resources: Jack the Ripper.org | Casebook.org | WikiCommons

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Jack the Ripper Walking Tour with Map first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

About the Lights

Spread across the city of Stockholm, there are over 40 streets and squares which have been festively decorated for the Holiday season. The stunning decorations are themed around Swedish Christmas traditions and iconography. Everything from moose, deer, mistletoe and stars seems to float around above your head, lighting up the dark days in even darker nights.

When Can you See the Lights?

The Christmas lights are turned on Saturday November 12th at 3 pm in Kungsträdgården. They are taken down around January 13th, so you have plenty of time to see them. The lights come on every day at 2:00 pm. While this might seem early to you, the days get dark very dark early in Sweden. B by 2:00 pm, it’s dark enough for the lights to be seen. The lights generally get shut off around 10pm. But I found that they were left on for later in some areas—especially the most populated shopping streets.

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Accessibility

The guided walking tour is located along city streets and is easily accessible to everyone. Because the lights are all located outside of the old town, this means you won’t need to go over cobblestone or down steep staircases. For the most part, the entire walking path is smooth, and some streets are entirely pedestrian-only.

How Long Will it Take to Explore?

The walking tour should be done at a leisurely pace. While we have specific stops marked along the way, you’ll discover your own unique treasures and hidden gems along the path. Take your time and explore everything you see! But in general, the walking tour should last about two-three hours. That’s enough time to explore but not so long as you get too cold. Be sure to stop into coffee shops and cafes along the route. The perfect way to warm up from the cold.

Stockholm’s Christmas Lights Walk

Operakällaren

Start your walking tour on the south-east tip of the lights map, in front of the Operakällaren. The Operakällaren is one of Stockholm’s oldest restaurants, opening its door to the public in 1787. It quickly became one of the hottest places in the city, frequented by some of the most exciting artists and politicians. Today it is still one of the most exclusive restaurants in town, and as such a flush place, it really goes all out on its Christmas decor.

The restaurant’s ceiling is replete with hanging star lanterns, which can be seen from the street level. These paper lights are one of the oldest Swedish traditional pieces of decor. They originally were thought to represent the Star of Bethlehem and are so popular that Ikea sells them year-round worldwide. Outside of the restaurant is a gorgeous evergreen display that recreates the image of the great Swedish Gävle Goats pulling a Christmas sleigh.

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NK / Nordiska Kompaniet 

Before heading to the east, we are taking a quick detour over to the NK building. NK or Nordiska Kompaniet is a top-rated department store in Sweden, and visiting their Christmas window displays are on the top of the list of seasonal traditions for local residents. The Christmas displays have been ongoing since 1915! One of the ways in which NK’s windows are different from other shop displays is that they are geared solely towards children! They genuinely strive to ensure the displays are installed at a low level. This way kids can see everything as they walk by and don’t need anyone’s assistance to see the scene.

Many other stores also have brand commitments that need to be met for the store windows, which results in the scenes being a little ham-fisted. But NK’s are devoid of branding and are more dedicated to a good-old-fashioned Swedish Christmas. If you have time to pop inside, you’ll be treated to a 4-storey tall Christmas tree!

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Head into Kungsträdgården

From the Operakällaren, head into the magical parkland of Kungsträdgården. Kungsträdgården is Swedish for “King’s Garden” but was initially built in 1430 as the King’s cabbage garden! In 1454 the park was expanded into a royal Baroque pleasure garden. Pleasure gardens were all the rage in the baroque era as they provided a place of recreation and entertainment for the public in the name of the King. A great way to stirrup publicity for the monarchy.

Walking into the park, the first things you’ll be in awe of are the dozens and dozens of linden trees lining your entrance to the park dressed up in Christmas lights. It’s like walking into a dream.

In the middle of the park is where you’ll find the circular ice skating rink. The rink is free and open to all! You just need a pair of skates which are available for rental. *Due to Covid 19 restriction, skate rental is closed for 2020. The rink is open from late November once the weather is cold enough for the ice to keep frozen and closes around the beginning of March. The rink’s hours are Weekdays 9 am-8 pm, weekends 10 am-6 pm. Even if you don’t want to skate, the ring is beautifully decorated and playing charming Christmas music you can dance to while watching the skaters whizz by.

Towards the northern end of the park is where you can find the tremendous royal deer. These 20 ft. tall deers are some of the first sculptural light displays we will see along the tour. These are called the “royal” deer not only because they are in the King’s park but because of their very regal stance. With their heads held high and nose in the air, they definitely look noble.

Grazing Moose along Nybrogatan

At the end of the park, you’ll come to Hamngatan, turn right and walk along till you come to Nybrogatan. Many of the streets in Stockholm end in “gatan,” and that is because “gatan” translates into “street”. On the corner of Nybrogatan and Hamngatan is Berzelii Park. Walking along the eastern side of the park is a herd of moose. No, they aren’t real moose; they are a series of lit sculptures. One of the reasons that moose are such an important symbol in Sweden is because there are more moose in Sweden per square kilometre than any other country in the world!

While you might think these moose are oversized, just like the royal deer we saw previously, moose are truly enormous creatures. They can grow up to 7 ft tall up to the shoulder with the large antlers stretching upwards of another foot or two. The male bulls can weigh up to a whopping 1870 pounds!!! While there are about 400,000 moose in Sweden, 100,000 are culled every year during hunting season to control the population. This culling results in moose meat being eaten and sold all over Sweden, making it one of their most iconic dishes.

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Birger Jarlsgatan

Walk north up Birger Jarlsgatan to the corner of Birger Jarlsgatan and Smålandsgatan. This building contains the corporate offices of Bain & Company. They have sponsored the lightning of the building with a giant red bow charmingly hanging off the facade. It’s so simple and yet so eye-catching.

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Norrmalmstorg 

Walk west along Smålandsgatan to Norrmalmstorg (storg means square). Norrmalmstorg was made famous in 1973 as the renowned robbery site, which resulted in events giving the world the saying “Stockholm syndrome.” But at Christmas time, the square has a somewhat more upbeat tone. In the center of the square stands one of the largest Christmas trees, all lit up with white lights.

One of the most significant differences I found between Swedish Christmas decor and North American decorations was simplicity. Instead of packing the trees with multicoloured lights and a million ornaments, most of the Christmas trees on display in the street were just filled with white lights and nothing more. Even the multitude of Christmas lights in the city stuck mainly to white, red and silver in terms of colours. While some people might think this restrained themeing might be boring, I found the uniformity calming and almost more natural. Like the lights bloomed on the trees like magic. The Brasserie vau de Ville is also located in the center of the square. It always has an elegant splay of decor lighting up the restaurant at night.

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Biblioteksgatan

Directly north of the square is the street Biblioteksgatan. Biblioteksgatan, which means “Library Street” in Swedish, is a street that culminates at the National Royal Library of Sweden and Humlegården. This pedestrian-only street is home to some of the most luxurious brand name stores, and the rent along the road is some of the highest in Stockholm. What this means for you is that most of these stores have some of the most fantastic windows displays set up for Christmas. It makes peering into the window some great fun.

Above your head, as you walk, a series of beautiful wreaths all lit up for the holidays. I absolutely love how they were swagged up and down the street, making it feel cozy and warm.

Norrlandsgatan

Continue walking along Biblioteksgatan until you get to Mäster Samuelsgatan. From there, turn left, and walk until you get to Norrlandsgatan. Norrlandsgatan is famous for being the location of one of Stockholm’s greatest unsolved mysteries. Restaurant Fontainebleau was one of the most popular restaurants in Stockholm in 1982 but was bombed on New Years’ ever, obliterating it. No one was ever convicted for the blast, and still to this day, it remains a puzzle. Norrlandsgatan is decorated for Christmas in these giant hearts, which are covered in lights and filled with enormous red bauble ornaments. It’s definitely the most romantic of the streets and an excellent place for an amorous stroll.

Jakobsbergsgatan

Walk north along Norrlandsgatan until you reach Jakobsbergsgatan and turn left. Jakobsbergsgatan is another pedestrian-only street known for its festive street decor throughout the year. Interestingly the street is home to many architects’ offices. During Christmastime, the road is hung with modern circular lamps with little star cutouts around the circumference. Crawling out from the center of the lamps are branches covered in twinkle lights. These are certainly the most interesting and almost abstract designs of all the Christmas lights. I wonder if the architects around this neighbourhood have anything to do with the more conceptual design of these Christmas decorations.

Regeringsgatan

Upon reaching Regeringsgatan, turn north and walk along the street, looking upwards at the blue snowballs hanging from the sky. Regeringsgatan is one of the oldest streets in Stockholm and was once one of the most critical trade roads. Providing access for travelling merchants to Stockholm’s waterways.

Kungsgatan

As we travel along Regeringsgatan, we finally come to the northernmost point on our tour, Kungsgatan. Kungsgatan means “King’s Street” in Swedish. Many of the most elegant buildings along this street were built in the early 1900s. But before this period of revitalization, the road was more famously known as being a red light district! Today, it is full of famous brands and some of the largest congregation of cinemas in the city. The street was also the site of Stockholm’s first traffic lights, which were installed in 1925! Today the traffic lights help you cross the street and take adorable pictures set amongst the amazing Christmas lights on the road. 

The first thing you’ll see when you approach Regeringsgatan is the excellent Bridge of Regeringsgatan, built in 1911. The bridges are some of the best-decorated spots on the street as they are absolutely dripped in lights! Along the rest of the road are vast swags of evergreens lit up with a large shining star in the center.

As we approach Malmskillnadsgatan and the sizeable arched bridge, look up to see the giant Kungstorn or King’s Towers! These towers are 60 meters tall and flank either side of Malmskillnadsbron. The buildings were built in 1919 and 1924 and are considered the first modern skyscrapers in Europe!

Sergels Torg

Turn down Sveavägen and walk south until you reach Sergels Torg. Sergels Torg or Sergel’s Square is a circular pedestrian plaza named after 18th-century sculptor Johan Tobias Sergel. Segel once lived here and worked just north of the square. In the center of the square is the enormous obelisk which looks down over the people and car circling the square. The obelisk lights up throughout the day and is usually coloured red for Christmas.

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In the recessed area of the plaza, which you can look down on from above or walk down the stairs to access, is a charming little family of moose grazing in a beautiful Christmas light encrusted forest. New to 2020 is an adorable set up where you can get your photo taken inside the faces of various Tomten! Tomten is the Swedish Christmas gnome who is said to live under people’s houses. On Christmas, even you must leave him something to eat to protect yourself from his mischief! He is a lovable creature that is more prominent to the Swedes than the North American Santa Claus image.

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Klarabergsgatan

Walk west along Klarabergsgatan, where you will be delighted by an awning of falling icicle lights. It’s like walking through a sparkling snowstorm but one that doesn’t hurt your face!

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Åhléns City

Another popular department store that always has beautiful Christmas decor on its facade is Åhléns City. Åhléns City is one of my favourite places to shop for Christmas decorations if you don’t have time to buy any at the outdoor markets.

Sergelgatan

Backtrack to Drottninggatan, but turn right down Mäster Samuelsgatan and then north along Sergelgatan. Segelgatan is the same street we view from above before, but this is the street’s sunken part. This area is decorated with hanging red ornaments on golden strings.

Hötorget

At the end of the street, you’ll exit out into the Hötorget square. Hötorget is one of the most central squares in the city as it is where three major roads meet; Sergelgatan, Gamla Brogatan and Kungsgatan. The Hötorget means name Haymarket. Even now, the square serves as a fruit and vegetable market during the day, and on Sundays, there is a large flea market. On the north-east corner of the square is the Royal Concert hall, with its stately pillars of light which are always beaming at Christmas time. The Nobel Prize Concert is held every year inside the Concert Hall and honours the current year’s Nobel Laureates.

Drottninggatan

Head west over to Drottninggatan. This gorgeous pedestrian-only shopping street is named Drottninggatan or Queen street. When it was first built in 1630 is was called “King’s Street” but was renamed Queen Street after Queen Christina, who ruled from 1632 to 1654.

For such a royal road, there is only one option for decorations; regal twinkling chandeliers! Marking the entry and exit to the walkable street are four great lions guarding the entrances. One of Stockholm’s oldest pharmacies, Apotek Ugglan, is located here and has been for over 200 years!

Gamla Brogatan

Backtrack a little bit along Drottninggatan to walk west along Gamla Brogatan. This is one of my favourite streets in this part of town. Gamla Brogatan was initially called. Gamla Kungsholmsbrogatan and was first established in 1637. While the road is narrow and pretty quiet, there are so many buildings along here which have such exciting architecture. Hanging above your heads as you walk are beautiful giant pine cones, glittering in the moonlight.

Stockholms Centralstation

When you come to Vasaplan, walk south along the street until you reach Stockholms Centralstation. While most of the building’s exterior is decorated, the best part is the door to the far south. Here you can find the large arch with enormous hanging mistletoe—the perfect place to steal a kiss with the one you love.

If you have time to step inside, you’ll be amazed at the Christmas lights that cover the train station’s entirety. Walking around here feels like a fairytale come true.

Järnvägsparken

Just south of Centralstation is the Järnvägsparken overpass. One of the loveliest parts of the decor along this part of the city is the fact that the light reflects down into the water, creating the most lovely mirrored effect.

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Tegelbacken

In the small plaza of Tegelbacken, look up high to the lamp posts where you’ll find a series of lit angels blowing trumpets

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Brunkebergstorg

Walk east until you reach Malmtorgsgatan and then veer off to the right until you reach Brunkebergstorg. This sizeable inner-city square is home to two beautiful deer, which are the dominating piece of decor in this part of town. In front of the Gallerian building are two 30 ft tall deer standing proud. But instead of antlers, a beautiful spray of tree branches explodes from their head. They are so stunning and set against the darkness of the night really makes an impact.

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Norrbro

Finally, head back down south to Norrbro. Norrbro or “North Bridge” is an arch bridge over Norrström. The bridge extends out from the Royal Palace and the Riksdag building. It was designed by the city architect Erik Palmstedt (1741–1803) in a neoclassical style.

Since the buildings located on the other side of the bridge are for the royal family, the decorations along the bridge are huge chandeliers topped with golden stars like a crown.

I hope you enjoyed the tour, it’s really one of the best ways to explore the city and you’ll see so many beautiful sights in Stockholm along the way!

Happy Travels Adventurers.

The post Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of Stockholm’s Christmas Lights first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

How to Get There

Burano is located off the main island of Venice. To get there you can hop on the Vaporetto line #12. This ferry runs directly from the San Zaccaria dock near St. Mark’s square. The journey takes around 45 minutes and costs €6.50 per person. But if you bought a multi-day travel card this will be included so the trip won’t cost you a thing!

When to Go

This island gets mobbed by tourists! Before Instagram, this island was a peaceful escape from Venice, and often overlooked in favour of Murano‘s famous glass island. But these days it gets really busy. But let’s face it, we’re all going there for the same reason so you kinda have to take the tourists with a grain of salt. The best way to avoid the crowds is to go super early in the morning. The sunrise from the ferry over the water on your journey to Burano is gorgeous and a great reward for early risers.

History of Burano

Much like the citizens of Venice, the people who would begin to inhabit the island of Burano came here to escape the Barbarian invasions. The island was a refuge in the lagoon, protected from the attacks coming in from the Adriatic Sea. The name “Burano” was taken from the words “Porta Boreana”, which meant northern door of the city.

The island was inhabited mainly by poor fishermen and therefore there never were too many fantastical palazzos constructed here. Even when the lace trade was at the height of its popularity, lace workers were heavily underpaid so there continued not to be a huge amount of wealth coming into this city. But what you’re left with is an authentically preserved town that encapsulates the way everyday Italians would have lived hundreds of years ago.

Walking Tour | Start the Ferry Dock

After disembarking the Vaporetto you are immediately struck by how different this island is to Venice. The green grass which greets you upon disembarking is one of the most significant differences as the grass is almost impossible to find in Venice. Large trees seem to swell and protect pedestrians sitting on the benches below. People are mulling about as their every day begins, fishermen loading nets into their boats along the shore and women out for their brisk morning walk.

Remigio Barbaro Sculpture

In front of the ferry dock is a bronze sculpture of a naked woman with her arms behind her head, crying out as if in distress. Many fishermen who went out to sea would have lost their lives over the years and this woman represents their collective grief. The statue was made by Remigio Barbaro, a local Burano sculpture who is one of the most famous artists who lived on the island.

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Strada di Corte Comare

Head westwards until you reach the Strada di Corte Comare. Turn up this street and as you take your first steps, you’ll be immediately amazed at the wonderfully colourful houses all around. I couldn’t stop saying “wow” as I passed one brightly houses to another and the city started to weave its magical spell around me.

Colourful Houses of Burano

Walking along this street, imagine how fisherman, long before the advent of electricity or gas lightning would have found their way home during the misty winters that Burano was famous for. Sounds almost impossible right? White houses would simply disappear into the darkness. So, in order to see their homes from far away, fisherman began painting them these bright, sometimes only neon, colours.  

The typical Burano home is pretty narrow and is only two or three floors tall. The ground level is where you’d find the kitchen and toilets. The upper floors would be where the bedrooms would be kept, to prevent the beds from getting wet during the rainy season.

Colour Rules

But these houses aren’t just painted willy-nilly. Homeowners in Burano must write to the city council if they want to paint their house a different colour. The government will assess the area and let you know what colours are deemed ok for this area. I assume this is to prevent too many of the same coloured houses being painted in one area. Therefore making it more confusing for residences to find their home.

Supermarket Stop

When you approach the first opportunity to turn left, head down this side street until you reach the Supermarket on Via San Mauro. Stop in at this grocery store to pick up breakfast essentials. A picnic in one of Burano’s amazing parks is even better than sitting in a cafe. Grab some cheese, bread, and a beverage to enjoy once we reach the perfect little picnic spot!

Panificio Pasticceria Garbo

If you’d like a sweet treat for breakfast then be sure to stop in at Panificio Pasticceria Garbo. This bakery has been owned by three generations of bakers and sells all the amazing Italian treats you need to have a wonderful start to the morning.

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Corte Comare

Walk south along the Via San Mauro until you reach the large square called the Corte Comare at the end of the street. This is a down to earth fisherman’s square, where for centuries people have been meeting to discuss the news of the day and catch up with friends.

In this square take notice of the various doorways facing the square. The doorways and window sills in Burano are some of the most interesting anywhere in the world. In Burano, most people leave their doors open to help with air circulation. To keep the flies out, a large sheet is hung over the doorway. I love all the different colour combinations you’ll see all over the island.

There is a small park nestled on the south-east corner of the Corte Comare. Here you can sit on the grass and enjoy a great view of the waterfront. Watch the boats chug up and down the lagoon, bringing in their catch of the day!

Fondamenta di Cavanella

After finishing your breakfast, walk down the Fondamenta di Cavanella towards the first bridge crossing on your right. These bridges are usually pretty packed with tourists but if you’ve taken my advice and come early in the morning you’ll have it more to yourself.

Pescaria Vecia

Cross over the bridge and walk along the parallel street to the one we just came from, Fondamenta di Cao Moleca. At the end of the street is an old brick structure with a simple red tile roof. This was once the old Pescaria Vecia, or Fish Market. Fishermen have lived and worked in Burano since the moment they came to these shores. There were no areas where the land was fertile enough for farming so fishing was an essential source of food.

Early fishermen used nets and harpoons to catch the fish and eventually also used “chebe” or cages. The cages would be used to catch bottom-feeding shellfish like crabs. Fishermen could trader fish for goods like wood and wine. It was the currency of the day in Burano. Today, catching fish is still one of the main occupations on Burano. There are over 450 different groups of fisherpeople who bring fresh seafood into the Rialto market and Venetian restaurants every day!

Via Giudecca #101

Backtrack back to the bridge and this time continues along Via Giudecca until you reach house #101. On the facade of the house is a bit of tile work which displays a beautiful quote about the colourful island. The words in Italian translates into; “Color is like music. It uses shorter ways to come to our senses to, wake our emotions.”

Fondamenta della Pescheria

Cross the bridge and walk west along the Fondamenta della Pescheria. This is one of the busiest areas but the houses along here are amazing.  As you walk along, stop for a minute at the Campo della Pescheria. This is another one of the former outdoor fish markets. This was where the market was moved after a huge storm destroyed the previous one. Today the square is used on most days of the week as a pop-up market where local artisans come to sell their wares.

Leaning Tower of Burano

Standing in the square you have a gorgeous view of the famous leaning tower of Burano! The tower is apart of the church of San Martino and was built in the 17th century. The shifting ground beneath the island has resulted in the tower starting to lean over the years. Some maintenance work was carried out in 1703 but the issue has yet to be remedied. 

Consider popping your head up a few sidestreets as you go. This is a great way to get away from the crowds and this narrow streets are always filled with such character.

Via Baldassarre Galuppi

Walk down the Campiello dei Squeri, which turns into the Calle Mastelletti. This will lead you over to the Via Baldassarre Galuppi. This street is definitely the most touristy area in Burano. But the history of the street is important. Baldassare Galuppi, for whom the street is named, was one of Italy’s most important composers. He was dubbed “Il Buranello” to honour his home in Burano.

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Galuppi loved music from the time he was born. His father was a mere barber but loved to play the violin in his spare time. Galuppi was surrounded by music as a child and inspired him to pursue this passion. Galuppi performed his first opera in Venice where he had been working as an organist. His first Opera performance was an utter failure, with Galuppi being booed off the organ by the audience. But he didn’t let one failure stop him and continued to practice and compose. Eventually, he started to be mentored by composer Antonio Lotti who would shape the rest of his career. Galuppi gained more and more success and became so famous he would preform his operas inside the great St Mark’s Basilica. 

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Da Primo

As its getting close to lunchtime, we better stop for something to eat. Eating a touch earlier or later in the day is a great way to avoid large crowds or waiting in line. Although many restaurants along this street are geared towards tourists, Da Primo is a worthy exception. Here you can eat like a local! One of the most famous dishes in Burano is the “risotto de gò” which is rice cooked in a rich fish broth. The fish broth is made from the “goby” fish local to the lagoons around Burano.

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Dalla Lidia Merletti d’Arte

After all that food it’s time to walk those calories with a little bit of shopping. Lace is what first made this island famous. The practice is kept alive today, mainly by the tourism industry. One of the best shops to find traditionally made lace is Dalla Lidia Merletti d’Arte which is the oldest lace shop in Burano. The shop sells handmade lace in the form of linens, tablecloths, handkerchief, bedspread, nightgowns and most adorably, children’s baptism gowns.

The woman who runs the shop is the fifth generation of women to work here. She is wonderfully passionate about the craft and even if there to demonstrate how this lace is made. And while you can shop around for cheaper lace, you’re likely going to find it’s not handmade but machine made in China. It’s really worth splashing out for the real thing, and the prices at Dalla Lidia Merletti d’Arte are extremely reasonable! 

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Pasticceria Costantini

Walk up the street and turn to your right to grab a sweet treat for dessert. Pasticceria Costantini specializes in Burano’s local delight; the “Bussolà“. The bussolà of Burano is an “s” shaped cookie. These hard cookies were first made by the fishermen’s wives for times when the fishermen were out on long journeys. While the traditional cookie is made with lemon, rum and vanilla, you can find them with chocolate as well. They are a “must-eat” item to have while on the island!

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Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi

Cookies in hand, walk over to the center of the Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi. This square is dedicated Baldassare Galuppi. In the middle of the Piazza, there is a monument in his honour, made by another Buranello, the sculptor Remigio Barbaro. 

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Istrian Stone Well

Also in the center of the square is a large, Istrian stone well. This well dates all the way back to 500 BC! The well still to this day supplies water to the nearby water fountain.

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San Martino

Dominating the square is the large San Martino church. This 16th-century, Roman Catholic church remains vastly unchanged from the day it was first built. While the exterior isn’t much to marvel at, take a quick peek inside. The interior features a large marble sarcophagus. Inside it is said that the remains of all island’s patron saints are laid to rest.

The Myth of the Fisherman

The myths goes that in the year 1000, a few fishermen in Burano saw a large marble coffin floating out in the water. Dozens of men tried to move it but none could get it to budge. Then four children came forward. The fisherman laughed at them at first but were shocked when the children moved it without almost any effort. It is said that the purity of the children was what allowed them to move these holy relics.

Also, keep your eyes open while inside for a plaque on the wall. This plaque is dedicated to the eight people who lost their lives when a huge storm blew the old Fish Market we saw previously. The storm destroyed 240 houses and killed these eight fishermen. It was one of the deadliest events on the island.

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Lace Museum

Opposite the church is the old Burano Lace School, whis is now the Lace Museum. This was where young girls were trained in the art of lace-making. The school was open from 1872 to 1970. After it closed down to teachings, it was transformed into a museum that provides visitors with a great introduction to the art of lace-making and its history on the island.

History of Lace in Burano

For more than 300 years, the island of Burano was known better as the “island of lace“. According to long-told story, a sailor was out at sea and wanted to bring home a present for the girl he was in love with. While fishing, he found a beautiful plant which he called the trina delle sirene or mermaid’s lace and brought it home to her. She was enamoured with the gift and wanted to immortalize it forever. So she set to recreating the plant in fine threads. And that’s how lacework was born… or at least that’s their story.

Lacemakers

The first lacemakers in Burano were women who worked in convents. The lace was exclusively made for the church to be used to decorate their vestments and altar cloths. These pieces of lacework were almost impossibly delicate, made with gossamer fine threads stitched together to form intricate patterns. Some of the women who made this lace would have spent their entire lives with their needle and thread, as women, especially in convents, were allowed to do little more than sewing. Spinsters and orphans would often be sent to a convent and find themselves making lace for the rest of their lives.

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As lacework broke out of just being made for the church, lace guilds started to pop up all over Burano. The guilds were put in place to control the production. On this outlying island, away from the high society in Venice, merchants could get away with paying low wages to the women in these guilds. The 17th century was the heyday for lacework in Burano. It was seen as the very best lacework to be found anywhere in the world. They called it punto in aria or “points in the air” because of the almost impossibly fine formation of the threads, like that of a spider.

Lace as Status

Lacework was seen as a high-status symbol, and worn by many rich aristocrats. The finer the lacework, the more expensive the cost, and therefore the more you showed off. Much of this lacework was worn in portraits painted of noblemen, immortalizing the lace forever. Despite the high price of lace, the actual women who made these pieces never became wealthy themselves as most of the money went straight into the pockets of the merchants. The merchants lived in luxurious palaces in Venice, and the poor women of Burano who sometimes went blind from this difficult work continued living in poverty on the island.

Burano Lace Guilds

In the 18th century, the tradition of lacework began to lose popularity. Its association with noblemen was reviled by the Revolutionaries of the time. Merchants abandoned the guilds and women on Burano. But the tradition never really was abandoned by the lacemakers themselves. They continued to make lace on the island for themselves and passed down the skills to their children. Bobbin lace was invented by these new generations, a slightly faster way of making lace. Today on the streets of Burano you can still watch mothers and grandmothers making lace the same way it was done hundreds of years ago. Thanks to the tourist trade, this tradition lives on.

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Merletti dalla Olga

After learning more about lacework, let’s visit another lace shop. Lace by Olga, or Merletti dalla Olga, specializes in turning lace into real works of art. One of my favourite things about this shop are the framed pieces of lace which cover the rich red walls. Even if you aren’t into wearing lace, you can find something that will look great on your walls. These beautiful framed pieces of lace, in the shapes of smaller items like butterflies or Saint icons cost between 12 and 18 euros which is really affordable and a great souvenir!

Terranova’s Marble Bridge

Crossing over the Terranova’s Marble Bridge, turn around. The view from the bridge or just behind the bridge has the most amazing panorama out towards the church of San Martino. Its framed on either side by the adorable multi-coloured houses iconic of this island.

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House of Remigio Barbaro

Walk along the Calle Brolli which encircles the edge of the island. Walking along the water’s edge, you’ll come upon a brick house with a large forest in the yard (marked on the map). This is the house of artist Remigio Barbaro. Remigio Barbaro was born in Burano in 1911 and spent his event life here. He is greatly admired by the residents of the city for his beautiful sculptural works. He had wished for his house to be turned into a museum after his death but construction on the house has only continued and no museum has been opened yet. Hopefully, it will open one day but until then you can at least admire the beautiful location where the artists worked.

Fondamenta di Terranova

Cut down the side street after passing the Remigio Barbaro House and walk north along Fondamenta di Terranova. I love this stretch of sidewalk. This part of the city is very far away from the tourist hub and here you’ll almost always find locals on their way to get their shopping or just out for a walk. There is a real sense of peace here and the island suddenly feels less just like a tourist Disneyland and more like a real place.

Ponte della Vigna

I think the Ponte della Vigna is my favourite of all the bridges on the island. Because it’s so quiet here and less packed with tourists the bridge has a truly romantic quality to it. Vigna means vineyards in Italian as there once was a small grove of grape trees nearby. The grapes were harvested by the convents on the island to produce their altar wine.

Laundry

Make your way from the bridge, west along with the Corte Romano Barbaro, then north up Corte del Pistro. These side streets are a photographers dream. They are almost devoid of tourists and they are also so picturesque. Laundry hangs outside the houses and across the streets, blowing in the wind. Just an idyllic scene in the middle of Burano.

Casa Bepi

Continue until you reach the unmissable Casa de Bepi. The house is one of those famous facades you’ll see plastered on dozens of postcards in the city. While all the other houses in Burano are painted one solid colour, Bepi’s was painted with a variety of bright colours in geometric shapes. Bepi was a real man who lived here who would entertain local children with his brightly coloured drawing. He continued adding to his house every day until his death. Today the city ensures the facade remains just as colourful as the day it was painted to keep the memories of Bepi alive.

Fondamenta S. Mauro Bridge

Walking over the Fondamenta S. Mauro Bridge, look out east on the bridge towards the canal. The bend in the waterway here with the little boats lining the edge of the canal makes for a beautiful picture. This street is usually pretty empty making it look all the more scenic.

La Buranella

While there are dozens of cheesy souvenir shops in Burano, La Buranella is one of the only truly amazing shops which sells one-of-a-kind gifts. La Buranella specializes in colourful, hand made paintings of Burano landscapes. The man who paints them is also the owner of the shop and will happily chat with you about his amazing creations. There are items here for as little as 5 euros but made by someone right in the heart of Burano and not made in China. One of the best places to end out your day.

This brings us to the end of our tour. If you find the ferry dock busy with tourists, head over the island of Mazzorbo (just across the bridge). This is a great place to wander around and kill some times while taking in some beautiful green spaces.

Burano is such a vibrant and exciting place and well worth the mere 45-minute journey from Venice. If you bring your own food and skip the museum, the trip will cost you nothing more than the ferry ticket price. And if you’ve already purchased a multi-day travel card that’s covered too! I wish I could return here all the time when I’m feeling creatively drained as this colourful island just awakens all your senses and will revive anyone’s spirit. What are you most looking forward to seeing in Burano? Is it the lace or the houses? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Discover the Colorful Canals of Burano: Your Complete Guide to Exploring this Charming Fishing Village in Venice first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

You could take dozens of walking tours around Venice, specializing in different themes or neighbourhoods. But this walking tour is perfect if you have limited time to see the city. Or you just want a good introductory tour to take you around the iconic places which helped form the history and culture of this city.

Table Of Contents

1. Walking Tour Details
2. Venice Tourist Tax
3. Start of the Tour: St. Mark's Square
4. Caffe Florian
5. St Mark’s Basilica
6. Doge’s Palace
7. The Bridge of Sighs
8. Corte Teatro & Teatro Goldoni
9. The Grand Canal
10. Rialto Bridge
11. Venetian Street Names
12. Mercado di Rialto
13. Ca' d'Oro
14. Riding a Traghetto
15. Cannaregio
16. Church of Madonna dell' Orto
17. Jewish Quarter
18. Panificio Giovanni Volpe
19. Scalzi Bridge
20. Santa Croce
21. Giardini Papadopoli
22. Basilica dei Frari
23. Dorsoduro District
24. Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute
25. Zattere

Walking Tour Details

How Long is this Walking Tour?

This walking tour takes you around some of the most important landmarks around the island. I recommend leaving a whole day for it since it spans almost the entire city. Or you could break the tour into sections to spread over a few days. This tour serves as a great introduction to the various districts. Giving you a glimpse of where you might like to come back and explore more later.

When Should I do this walk?

Monday is a great day to do this tour. Most museums are closed on Mondays, yet the churches we will visit will remain open. Mondays are also when people have gone back to work, so you’ll get a better idea of what the neighbourhood looks like when all the shops are open. Businesses are bustling, and the cafes serve their daily customers. You can, of course, for this tour any day of the week, but I always recommend Mondays due to the museum’s closures.

Start the tour early in the morning. The earlier, the better. I usually wake up before dawn and go to St. Mark’s Square. As the sun rises above the city, the square is almost empty, except for the pigeons. There’s nothing like it. Well worth the sacrifice of a little bit of sleep.

When is the Best Time to Visit Venice

The best time to visit Venice is during the shoulder seasons of spring and fall, from April to June and September to November, respectively. During these months, the weather is pleasant, and the crowds are fewer, allowing you to explore the city without the hustle and bustle of peak tourist season. However, keep in mind that Venice experiences high tides, known as acqua alta, from November to March, which can make certain parts of the city inaccessible.

Venice Tourist Tax

Starting January 1st, 2023, Venice will implement a Tourist Tax for anyone staying in the city overnight. This tassa di soggiorno or tourist tax will be included in your hotel, B&B and alternative accommodation fee. 

But soon, the city will be implementing a day-visit ticket. This is set to cost anywhere from €3 to €10. Visitors from cruise ships or the mainland must book their tickets to visit Venice in advance. This system has not yet been activated, but once online, day visitors will need to pre-register and select the day on which they plan to visit the city.

This new system is being implemented to help visitors contribute to the protection and safeguarding of Venice. All the money from these taxes goes directly toward improving the quality of public services and museums. As well as maintenance to prevent this historic city from sinking into the ground forever.

Start of the Tour: St. Mark’s Square

The best place to start your tour is standing in the centre of the Piazza San Marco or St. Mark’s Square. Arrive here as early as you can. There is something truly magical about being here as the sun rises on the square. You’ll see the beautiful rose-gold sunlight begin to kiss the cobblestone and bricks around you. The sun seems to bring the square to life as cafe owners take out their colourful chairs and pigeons flock around gawking tourists (but please don’t feed them!)

Standing in the centre of the square, in front of the Basilica, you can turn around 360 degrees and see one spectacular sight on top of another. In this small area, you’ll find the St Mark’s Basilica, the great Campanile (Belltower), the Procuratie, the Piazzetta, Doge’s Palace, Bridge of Sighs and Torre dell’ Orologio. There is rarely a time when you’ll visit the square when they aren’t some form of construction or renovation going on. With all these historical sights in one place, something is bound to be falling apart and in need of repair. Try to look past that and don’t let it ruin your experience.

Saint Mark

The square is named after the patron saint of Venice, Saint Mark. In 828, a relic of St. Mark was stolen from Alexandria and brought back to Venice by La Serenissima’s great naval fleet. The Venetian Doge, awed by the acquisition of this precious relic, adopted Saint Mark as the new patron Saint of Venice (whose honour had previously been given to Saint Theodore).

A city with a saintly relic immediately rose in power and prestige. Relics were the first tourist attraction of the medieval world. Pilgrims would come from all over the world to pray at the churches that preserved these relics. Pilgrims, much like tourists today, needed food and shelter. And therefore, they brought lots of money into the city.

A grand church to house the precious artifact began to be built in 836. Even back then, the church and the nearby Doge’s palace were highlights of the medieval city of Venice. A great square was needed to further showcase the opulence the Doge wanted to project. In 1172, orchards were demolished surrounding this area, and the Piazza San Marco was built. It’s been rumoured that upon visiting St. Mark’s square for the first time, Napoleon himself degreed that it was “the drawing room of Europe.”

The Procuratie

The simplistic yet elegant buildings along the north and south sides of the square are called the Procuratie. The Procuratie is most identifiable by the stunning arcade that wraps around this side of the square. The arcade features distinct Byzantine arches that shield visitors from the elements.

The Procuratie once served as the offices of the Venetian Republic, also called La Serenissima. Today they house the Correr Museum, the Museum of the Risorgimento, and the Archeological Museum. Each one of these is an incredible place to visit. But the Correr Museum is my favourite with its collection of art detailing the history of the city of Venice.

The Lion of Venice

Throughout St. Mark’s square, you’ll see various lion sculptures adorning doorways, columns and facades. The official ‘Lion of Venice’ is usually seen with his paw resting upon a bible. And he is not just any lion, but St. Mark’s Lion. St. Mark was often referred to as a lion, as he preached the word of the lord so powerfully it almost seemed like a roar. Legend says that when St. Mark was travelling through Europe and arrived in Venice, he was visited by an angel. The angel told him Venice would be where his body would rest for eternity. His remains were originally interred in Alexandra but moved to Venice, where the basilica was built to honour them as the angel had foreseen.

Caffe Florian

Now housed inside one of the old Procuratie is perhaps the most sumptuous cafe in Venice or perhaps Europe itself. Although this cafe is by no means cheap, it’s a splurge that I think is worth it to experience the incredible interiors and history to be found within. The Caffe Florian was founded in 1720 and has served patrons like Charles Dickens and Lord Byron. There is a €6 cover charge to even enter the cafe. But along with enjoying the lavish interiors, you’ll also be treated to live music throughout the cafe. Palacial red velvet couches and chairs are spread across the huge cafe, a maze of cozy antechambers. Each room is covered in ornate paintings, large Murano glass mirrors, gold foiled frames and intricate frescos plastered on the ceiling.

To save money, go to the bar and order your food or drinks there. Although you won’t get a seat, the bar menu is vastly cheaper than table service. An espresso at the bar will still run you €5, but again, you’re here for the atmosphere. If you’d rather save your money, you can opt to give this a miss. Instead, grab a coffee on your way toward St. Mark’s square from any local cafe to enjoy while you peruse the sights around you.

The Campanile

Standing guard in the centre of the square is the 323ft tall Campanile or Belltower. The low-level buildings throughout Venice are in stark contrast to the towering red brick Campanile. Its little pointed tower pokes out atop the skyline no matter where you end up in Venice. While the original tower was built in 1514, the current one is a reconstruction from 1912 after its collapse in 1902. It’s incredible to imagine that such a tall structure could survive for so long-standing atop the shifting waters below. But it wasn’t actually the water which proved to be the biggest enemy of the tower; it was lightning. Lightning struck the tower multiple times over the years, causing several fires and severe internal damage to the structure.

The Bells of the Campanile

The tall base of the tower is designed with a fluted shaft that reaches up towards the belfry. On each side of the belfry are a series of arched windows looking out over the square. Inside the belfry are five huge bells. Each one was used to call the people of Venice to attention. The bells have their own distinctive name and special significance. The Renghiera bell announced executions. The Mezza Terza would declare that a session of the Senate was taking place. The Nona sounded the midday hour. The Trottiera was used to assemble the Maggiore Consiglio and the Marangoni, the largest of the bells, rang to mark the beginning and end of the working day. Before anyone even had watches to tell time or Twitter to announce the day’s news, these bells were all the public had to get collective, daily information.

Above the arches of the belfry is another level of brickwork decorated with various sculptures on either side. On one farside, you’ll see the Lion of St. Mark and on the other, the female representation of Venice, in the shape of the Lady Justice. The golden weathervane which crowns the tower is sculptured into the angel Gabriel. He stands tall, reaching out toward the citizens below.

Torre Dell’Orologio

Turn to the square’s northeast corner, and look up at the bright blue and gold details decorating the fantastical Torre Dell’Orologio. In the morning light, the sun glints off the golden dials. The clock was built in the 15th century when the possession of a mechanical clock symbolized the wealth and power of a city. The clock was positioned facing out towards the water so that any foreign ships could see the time from the canals as they passed through. With a spyglass, of course, their eyesight wasn’t that good.

Atop the tower containing the clock, you can see two small bronze figures who carry large hammers in their hand. These figures move upon the hour to strike the bell, causing the bells to ring. One of the figures is a young man, and the other is an old man, symbolizing the passage of time. Once more, we see the image of the Lion of Venice above the clock, set against a blue sky of golden stars. Below the lion is the figure of the Virgin Mary with the baby Jesus wrapped in her arms. On either side of her are two blue panels with the time represented in roman numerals on the left. And on the right in Arabic numerals, as was the tradition during the Byzantine era.

The Clock Face

The most impressive feature of the clock are the blue and gold sculptural engravings set within the numerals. Each one was fantastically carved to represent the signs of the zodiac. The central dial, emblazed with the sun’s image, revolves around the zodiac signs. But rather than showing the time, the sundial marks the date. The smallest dial, closest to the central, holds a tiny orb representing the phase of the moon that changes throughout the year.

St Mark’s Basilica

St. Mark’s Basilica is one of the most precious treasures from the Byzantine period. Preserved in amber, there are so many aspects of history, art, culture and faith from that era. The most significant elements of the church’s design are the mighty, tiled onion domes that glitter against the sea-blue sky. The bulb-shaped domes with their golden finials lanterns give the church that middle eastern appearance that defined Byzantine art and architecture.

Exterior Design of St. Mark’s

The exterior of St. Mark’s Basilica can be studied by looking at its three distinctive areas; the lower level, upper level, and domes. The lower-level mosaics portray scenes from the life of Saint Mark, for whom the church derives its name. In the central arch where the enormous doorway is located, there is the largest mosaic, which depicts the Last Judgment. The original mosaic would have been made in the 13th century, but this current incarnation is from the 19th century after much-needed restorations. The portals that lead into the church are held up by marble columns in a plethora of colours and patterns. Each one is set inwards, towards the doorway, creating a foreshortening perspective. Giving the viewer the effect of being pulled into the church.

On either side of the central portal, the mosaics depict the life of St. Mark. The mosaic on the left is the only surviving piece from the 13th century. Above these central portals, we can study the arched lunettes. These mosaics depict the life of Christ.

The Balcony

The upper-level balcony is home to four important bronze horses. These are the Horses of Saint Mark-Lysippos. Originally stolen from Constantinople in 1252. The ones outside the church today are replicas of the original sculptures, as these suffered terribly from the elements. They were brought inside the church museum to ensure they could be preserved for years. The bronze horses date all the way back to classical antiquity. It is rumoured that perhaps they were once a part of the Arch of Trajan in Rome. Positioned pulling an emperor’s chariot. But these horses were one of the many trophies collected during the Crusades, which is how they journeyed to Venice.

Ogee Arches

Arching behind the golden horses and above the second-floor lunettes are a series of ogee arches. Ogee arches are a type of arch with an S-shaped curve consisting of two arcs that meet at a point. Not only do these designs add an aesthetically pleasing element to the building, but they also serve a functional purpose by providing additional support for the structure. Ogee arches have a rich history in architecture and can be traced back to various ancient civilizations, including the Romans and the Greeks. However, the use of ogee arches in Islamic architecture during the 12th and 13th centuries is where they gained prominence and influenced such structures as the basilica we see today. 

Set within the central arch is the gilded and winged lion of Venice. Standing brightly against the blue-tiled sky and golden stars. Saint Mark and his choir of six angels decorated the top of the facade, looking down on the throngs of visitors below. 

Admission & Tickets to St. Mark’s Basilica

If you want to go inside the Basilica, be warned that the queue can get very long. And you need to book your tickets in advance and select the exact arrival time. But even with these timed tickets, you will still need to wait in line. Reserved timed tickets to cost €20.50 and include an audio guide. There is also an option to purchase a skip-the-line ticket, but this will cost €39. Free cancellation is included in your ticket, which must be done 24 hours in advance for a full refund. I would choose the earliest reservation time to ensure you are the first in the door, leaving the rest of your day open.

No large bags or backpacks are allowed inside the basilica. If you have one, leave it at the Ateneo San Basso in the Piazzetta dei Leoncini (at the north facade to the left of the main entrance.) Be sure to do this before you get in line as you don’t want to be turned away and have to line up again. Remember that the basilica requires guests to adhere to their dress code. No bare shoulders or shorts, and men should wear shirts. 

Interior of St. Mark’s Basilica

Upon entering the church, you’ll first notice the overwhelming amount of golden mosaics covering everything from the floors to the ceiling of the building. There are over 85,000 square feet of mosaics in St. Mark’s Basilica. The light reflects off the surface of the glass, and depending on the time of the day, the light can change the effect and the appearance of the interior. There was such a large amount of gold used in the church’s construction that the residents of Venice began to call it the Chizea d’Oro or the Gold Church.

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Because the Basilica was built during the Byzantine age, architectural methods weren’t as advanced as they are now. You’ll notice thick walls, hundreds of columns and the heavy use of marble, which were used as rudimentary supports. They needed to use the strongest of materials to help keep the multi-domed ceiling from caving in.

Inside the church are the treasures of the fourth crusade on the holy land. During the 4th century, Venice deemed itself the holiest place on earth. And therefore, all the treasures crusading armies found were brought to Venice. One such treasure was the Pala d’Oro. The Pala d’Oro is the frame enclosing the high altar inside the church. It is decorated with panels featuring 1,300 pearls, 300 emeralds, 300 sapphires, 400 garnets, 100 amethysts, rubies, and topazes. A glittering masterpiece.

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Porta Della Carta

When you exit the church, be sure to take a moment to study the Porta della Carta on the south side of the church. In 1442, the ceremonial entrance was built to connect the basilica to the Doge’s Palace. The doorway is dripping in gothic ornamentation, with two tall, thin pinnacles flanking either side of the statue of the Doge Francesco Foscari. The statue of the Doge is seen kneeling before the Lion of Saint Mark. Below each pinnacle, we can also spot various statues representing the cardinal virtues.  

Doge’s Palace

A Venetian Doge is something that many of you may not have heard of before. A Doge is pretty much like an English Duke; who served as the leader of the Republic of Venice from 726 to 1797. The Doge would rule over Venice from his seat of power inside the incredible Doge’s Palace. Today the building serves as a public museum.

The building itself is a wonder to behold. Despite the enormity of the upper structure, it looks almost weightless as it is supported by these delicate pink Verona marble columns. The columns are decorated with a lacy pattern, making them look even more fragile. The top of the building is adorned with spiked merlons that look like meringue frosting atop this architectural cake.

Walk through the arcade under the Doge’s Palace and study the individual capitals atop the exterior columns. Each one features a different set of sculptures with various animals, vegetal designs and more!

Piazzetta 

Past the Basilica, walk south towards the water, where you can find the Piazzetta. The Piazzetta is the smaller square to the south of the main square. In the middle of the square are two large two columns made of red marble. These two columns were where death sentences were announced during the medieval ages.

At the top of the columns are two statues. Each depicts one of the patron saints of Venice, St. Mark and St. Theodore, on the left and right, respectively, if you’re facing the water. St. Mark is depicted as the winged lion of Venice, and St. Theodore can be seen standing atop, of all things, a crocodile. In his hand, he holds a spear which we can assume he used to slay the giant crocodile. Saint Theodore is commonly known for slaying a dragon, not a crocodile. But perhaps the Venetian artists of the time had little knowledge of what a real dragon looked like, so instead, they carved the next best thing, which I guess was a crocodile. Makes sense when you think about it!

The Bridge of Sighs

Walk around the Doge’s Palace until you turn to face the Bridge of Sighs. The bridge of sighs was created to join the interrogation rooms of the Doge’s Palace to the prison across the canal. If you were found guilty by the Serenissima, you were sent to prison, but upon crossing the bridge, you were allowed to look out at Venice one last time. Two small, square windows on the bridge allowed prisoners this one moment of reflection before facing their possible lifetime of imprisonment. The windows on the bridge are covered in tightly knit wrought iron bars, so no one could make an escape.

Calle de Fabbri

Head back to the area in front of the Basilica, and walk north along the Calle de Fabbri, crossing over the Ponte dei Dai. Calle is the Italian word for a narrow street. Like many streets in Venice, this one is named after the occupation of the people who worked in this area. Fabbri means locksmith, and it was along his street where you’d once have found the city’s locksmiths at work. Head northwest on Calle dei Fabbri and turn left onto Calle S. Gallo until you reach the Ponte Tron.

Ponte Tron

Due to the proximity to St. Mark’s square, this bridge is often pretty crowded. But its old stone design and views out to the gondola-covered canals aren’t anything to whizz past. If you’re lucky enough to be here when it’s quiet, this is one of the more romantic spots in the city. Even on busy days, I love just standing here just watching the gondola traffic. Sometimes dozens of gondolas get stuck in this narrow canal. See, even Venice has traffic jams!

Pont dei Fuseri

Continue southwest on Calle Tron, turning right onto Calle Frezzaria as it curves and becomes Calle Barcaroli. Make a right north onto Ramo dei Fuseri to the bridge Ponte Dei Fuseri. There are 400 bridges in Venice which cross 150 canals! Before Venice’s bridges were built, these little islands all acted as their own private communities. These communities needed to be self-serving with their own churches, markets, shops, and micro-culture. Even today, you can still make out the borders of these various micro-neighbourhoods as you cross from one bridge to another. As you reach the Pont dei Fusari, you are finally starting to get away from the tourist crowds, and the real Venice starts to open up for you. 

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Continue along Calle dei Fuseri and turn left onto Calle de la Vida o de le Locande. Then, turn left onto Scala Contarini del Bovolo, where you’ll find the towering Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo.

Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo

This brick Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo has become an iconic viewpoint in Venice. The Palazzo’s incredible, honeycomb-like spiral staircase, with a fantastic balcony at the top, provides one of the most amazing views across the city and over St. Mark’s square. The staircase is called the “Scala Contarini del Bovolo” or “the snail.”

Built in the 15th century for the wealthy Contarini family, the house became notable for its unique outer staircase. In 1952 Orson Welles also fell in love with the house. He even featured it in his film adaptation of Shakespeare’s Othello. The Palazzo was closed for many years, but in 2016 it opened its doors to the public. You can climb the stairs to the top for three euros and get a snap of the skyline.

Corte Teatro & Teatro Goldoni

Head back to the Calle de la Vida o de le Locande and walk west towards the Calle de la Vida o de le Locande/Campo Manin. Turn right onto Rio Terrà S. Paternian, then make another left onto Calle Minelli. Walk along Minelli until you reach the Corte Teatro. Walking along the Corte Teatro until you come to the square at the end of the street.

This dreamy square, with a lovely nearby cafe, is surrounded by red and yellow-painted buildings. But dominating the square is also a HUGE boring grey wall. Why are we looking at a large grey wall, you ask? Well, this is the back entrance to the Teatro Goldoni. But Why are we looking at the back, not the front? Well, the front is even less interesting if you can believe it. But the history of this building is such an important part of Venice’s past that it’s worth stopping here for the story!

During the 17th century, trade had begun to twindle in Venice, with other European ports being able to accept larger ships than Venice. Rich families who had made their money in trade needed to suddenly find other means of earning funds. In the 17th century, Opera was quickly becoming the most popular activity for the aristocrats to indulge in. But at the time, it was only performed in private courts. Seeing an opportunity here, rich Venetian families began to invest in building theatres that could bring Opera and music to the public.

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Teatro Vendramin

Suddenly, theatres began to pop up all over Venice, each vying for the most popular singers to draw in the biggest audience. The Teatro Vendramin was the original name of the first theatre, which stood here in 1622. It was built by the illustrious Vendramin family. The theatre was renovated in 1720 and named after the infamous Venetian actor Carlo Goldoni.

But the renovation of 1720 destroyed all of the original, elaborate Renaissance architecture, and we were left with the boring interior and exterior design you can see today. Luckily, some intelligent historians preserved the archives before the renovation. This included a copy of every play, the list of previous actors and, most importantly, the original architectural drawings was saved as well.

The theatre was kept in the same family for years. And when it came time to restore it in the 19th century, architects could discover precisely what the original theatre looked like inside and restore its interior to its former beauty. Sadly, we are still waiting for the exterior to get the same treatment. Today, the theatre is used by the Teatro Stabile del Veneto to put on modern productions and musical performances.

The Grand Canal

Continue walking north along the Corte Theatro, through an almost impossibly narrow alley, until you emerge out into the bright light of the Grand Canal along the Riva del Carbon. As this is the first time we are really faced with the view of the Grand Canal, we should talk a little bit about this ever-so-important waterway. The Venetian Grand Canal splits the city of Venice in two. 

The original waterway was much narrower and was a branch of the river Brenta. Ancient Venetian fishermen were once the only ones who lived along its shores in simple stilt houses. Stilt houses ensured the rising tides didn’t wash their houses away.

History of the Grand Canal

It wasn’t until the 9th century, when the Doge moved his palace into the more protected area of what would become St Mark’s square, that the canal was widened. A broader canal was needed to make room for the enormous ships which were brought in and used to bring building materials for the grand palace. The canal soon became less of a fishing spot and more like a luxurious main street, but one made of water. Wealthy families began buying cheap property and building huge manors along the now Grand Canal.

The grand canal was now the main entryway into the city, and the Venetian Republic wanted every building lining it to demonstrate the city’s power, wealth and artistic sensibilities. Like a parade of the best architecture Europe had to offer. This huge canal is now flanked by 170 illustrious buildings. Some dating back to as early as the 13th century.

Palazzo Bembo

Turn right and walk along with the Riva del Carbon until you reach a stone bridge. Stop just before the bridge to admire the red building to your right. This is the Palazzo Bembo. This unbelievable building was owned by the Bembo family and was built in the 15th century! Obviously, there has been many renovations and restorations over time, but the original structure shockingly remains much unchanged.

The design of the building encompasses much of what traditional Venetian architecture looked like in the 15th century. The Byzantine influence was still going strong! And you can spot various of their traditional elements fused together here in the polyforms which cover the facade. A polyform is a multi-light window used on the upper floors to bring light into the structure by using wider openings. 

Pietro Bembo was born in Venice in 1470 and built the Palazzo Bembo as his lavish residence. Pietro Bembo was one of the most influential Venetian scholars and writers who helped develop the Tuscan language. He also spent much of his life creating and promoting a madrigal, a secular form of music developed during the Renaissance. He believed that music should be for more than just religious devotion. That music could be used to express everyday human emotion. That seems obvious to us now, but at the time, music was mainly composed for the church. And the subject matter was exclusively religious. We have Pietro Bembo to thank, in a small part, for why we have pop and rock music today!

Rialto Bridge

Continue along with the Riva del Carbon as it turns into the Riva del Ferro, walking along the edge of the Grand Canal. Emerging from the last arcade, you’ll be greeted almost immediately by the sight of the bright white stones of the Rialto bridge. The Rialto Bridge is the most famous of Venice’s canal bridges. It is also the oldest of the four major bridges connecting the various districts and neighbourhoods. The original bridge built here in 1173 was first made of wood. It went by the name Ponte Della Moneta, which means “money bridge.” The name reflected the industry of the area. This was where the largest mint in Venice once stood. People would flood into their area and cross the bridge at all hours of the day to deposit and take out their cash!

The old wooden bridge was split down the center and could be raised on either side to allow tall ships to enter these narrow canals. This was of the utmost importance, especially when the Rialto Market opened, as boats would come in mass to deliver fresh fruits, vegetables and fish to the centre of Venice. But as time passed, the old wooden bridge wasn’t up to snuff. After years and years of wear, riots, fires and crowds, eventually, it collapsed.

New Rialto Bridge

The new Rialto bridge design was completed in 1551. The architect who designed it did away with the raised wooden design and favoured stone as it was more durable and could last the test of time. Since the stone bridge couldn’t be raised, he needed to ensure that it was tall enough at its peak to accommodate the galley ships that needed to pass through. The result was this grand arched design that has such a theatrical quality to it.

Atop the stone bridge are a series of covered porticos which contain shops on either side. The addition of shops allowed the bridge to earn rent on the space. The money from this goes towards the maintenance of the bridge. A large arch, like the crown, is set in the center of the porticos atop this stunning structure.

Avoiding the Tourist Traps

Unfortunately, the shops along the bridge are somewhat of a tourist trap, selling tacky souvenirs along the entire walkway. But, if you look at it from afar, you can ignore the tourist tat and focus only on the gorgeous silhouette it forms about the teal waters of the canal.

If you’re looking for a spot to sit to enjoy the view, there are these two little nooks on the bottom of the bridge where you can sit beside the water. This is one of the most amazing places to watch boats and gondolas float by, with stacks of fruits and vegetables coming into the market as the midday sun casts its bright rays down on the city. Once you’ve taken in all, there is to see below, walk up the bridge and make sure to stop in the centre to get that iconic view across Venice and the Grand Canal.

Chiesa di San Giacomo di Rialto

Crossing the bridge and heading to the island on the other side, you’ll walk through the Campo de San Giacomo di Rialto. This unassuming square is dominated by a rather small, strange-looking church. This is the Chiesa di San Giacomo di Rialto, supposedly the oldest church in Venice, consecrated in 421! The most unique aspect of this church is the huge clock set into its 15th-century facade.

This area of Venice, known as San Silvestro, was where all the wealthy bankers of the city lived. The bankers who lived here funded the church’s renovation, and while construction went on, they added a large clock and bell tower to its design. Being able to tell the time was of the utmost importance for traders and bankers. While clockfaces aren’t that uncommon on buildings around Venice, this one is absurdly large. Those bankers really wanted the most bang for their buck! It’s also interesting to note that the hours aren’t positioned as they are on modern-day clocks. Whereas most clocks now only have 12 number positions, this one displays all 24. Ironically enough, this clock is a notoriously bad timekeeper. So don’t be fooled if you think you’ve lost an hour of your life somewhere in the streets of Venice. 

Venetian Street Names

As we make our way toward the Mercado di Rialto, we walk along the Ruga Degli Oresi. Like many streets in Venice, the Ruga Degli Oresi gets its name from the professions or trades which once were active in the area. Orsi means goldsmith, as there was once a large faction of gold and jewellery traders working here. Many other notable streets in Venice have the same kind of naming convention. There is the Calle de la Malvasia, where you’d find the winemakers.

The Campiello del Remer for the rowboats, the Calle de Forni, which was where you’d find the bakers, the Botteri for the coppers, Calle de Magazine for the grocery shops and even the Calle de Fiubera for the buckle makers! This would have made finding what you were looking to buy so simple! No need for yellow pages or even google! Find the street with the corresponding name, and you’re in the right spot.

Mercado di Rialto

Now that you’ve been introduced to the city’s history, it’s time to meet the people of Venice. And there is no better place to get a peek into the real lives of its residents than to head to the Rialto Market! The Rialto Market is one of the last remaining fresh food markets in the city and, as such, is a bustling place for locals to come and buy their food. Unlike in North America, where we shop for a week’s worth of food at a large chain grocery store, Italians buy only what they need for that day. And repeat the process every day of the week. While this might sound exhausting, it means fresh food every day and the chance to make lasting relationships with the vendors you buy your food from. Something I dearly long for and admire greatly when visiting cities like Venice.

History of the Rialto Market

But the Rialto Market is much more than just a place to get some of the best food in the city! It is also a place of great historical value. Of all the rich bankers and traders who lived in the region, the most famous were the Rivoalto family. The Rivoalto traders were one of the first families to come into the lagoon to set up a trading post. They picked this location because it was well situated along the bend of the canal. This meant it was located on higher ground and therefore was spared from some floodings that other parts of the island suffered through. 

The first known market opened here in 1097. Because the family didn’t have to constantly rebuild their homes, they were in a much better financial position than many other families in the area. There wasn’t home insurance to help you back then. The Rivoaltos grew in prominence and wealth and soon controlled so much of the neighbourhood that the area was named after them.

Layout of the Market

The outdoor portion of the market is where you’ll find seasonal fruits and vegetables under brightly coloured awnings. If you’re looking for a snack, there is nothing more refreshing than a basket of fresh fruit!

Opposite the green awning of the outdoor market is the neo-gothic fish hall, or Pescheria, built in the early 1900s. Outside the red brick building, there is still a marble plaque which you should study before heading inside. This plaque denotes the different types of fish allowed to be legally sold here when the marketplace was first built. Certain varieties of fish were being overcaught, and laws were set in place to ensure there was a limit on how many a household could buy to prevent their depopulation.

The Fish Hall

The fish hall is a rustic building with dramatic arches surrounding the exterior. Towering columns continue throughout the interior, making a simple stone building feel rich and illustrious. Fresh fish has long been one of the most important resources in Venice. All they have to do is throw out their rod, and the freshest fish comes jumping out of the sea and pouring into the market. It can’t get much more local than that!

The marketplace was facing the chance of being shut down a few years ago due to a possible canal expansion for cruise ships. Thankfully, the citizens convinced the city to put a stop to this, and the market was saved. But as more and more people shop at larger grocery stores on the island, markets like this always face the chance of being closed. So if you visit, buy at least a little something to show your support. We bought some fresh raspberries and cherries, and they were absolutely delicious. The perfect on-the-go treat!

Ca’ d’Oro

Before heading to our next stop, walk to the corner of the Fondamenta de le Prigioni, across from the Campo de la Pescaria. From here, you have a perfect view across the Canal towards the Ca’ d’Oro. The Ca’ d’Oro of Palazzo Santa Sofia was an illustrious palace built along the Grand Canal for the Contarini family in 1428. The Contarini family was responsible for rearing eight different Doges and was one of the wealthiest families in Venice.

To show off their wealth and power, they wanted to create a palace that mirrored the greatness of the Doge’s Palace in St. Mark’s square. Ca’ d’Oro means the golden house. When the building was first constructed, the entire facade was covered in gilt polychrome, giving the effect of being made entirely of gold!

Venetian Gothic

The palace’s architecture is one of the best-surviving examples of Venetian Gothic architecture. The iconic elements characteristic of this style are gallery windows with heavy tracery details featuring quatrefoil designs and byzantine-inspired decorations. Ogee arches span the balcony’s facade, each capped with a wonderfully carved relief ornament.

Inside, the lavish details continue. Even the flooring was made into a work of art. Different coloured stones were used to create fanciful patterns. Since 1927, the building has served as the Galleria Giorgio Franchetti, which features a wonderful collection of 15th-century art.

Riding a Traghetto

Instead of backtracking over the Rialto bridge to get to Cannaregio island (our next stop), we’re going to opt for a very Venetian method of crossing the canal, a Traghetto! You can find the Traghetto ferry dock along the Fondamenta de le Prigioni, across from the Campo de la Pescaria. Walk over to the water’s edge, where you’ll see a small dock and what appears to be a series of black gondolas. “But gondolas are so expensive!” you say. And rightly so, they are. But these are not gondolas; they are traghetti. A traghetto (or traghetti if you’re referring to them as plural) means ferry in Italian. These little ferry boats take passengers across the Grand Canal when there are no nearby bridges.

This is essentially how many Venetians would have made these crossings long ago. A trip on a traghetto costs €2, which might seem a bit pricey for a quick journey, but they save you a ton of time. Plus, it gives you a short but sweet experience on a gondola-type boat. Sure, you might have to share it with a group but it’s the same design, just less romantic. The trip across the water provides a beautiful view of the Ca’ d’Oro from afar, so you can better study all of it in all its glory before getting up close and personal. The Traghetto will let you off at the Santa Sofia in the neighbourhood of Cannaregio.

Cannaregio

This area of the island is called Cannaregio. Cannaregio is home to the old Jewish Quarter and is where most of Venice’s permanent residents live. This means that you’ll see things more than just tourist attractions. Places like schools, corner stores, and traditional Venetian houses aren’t sprawling palazzos. If you’re looking for somewhere to stay in Venice, Cannaregio is my favourite spot, as it feels like the community’s beating heart.

Ponte Chiodo

We are going to set off into Cannaregio via the Strada Nova. The Strada Nova a wide pedestrian street lined with shops and cafes. Turn right from the Strada Nova onto Fondamenta S. Felice. This is such a picturesque street and peaceful canal. As you look down along the canal, you can see four different bridges all along one short stretch of water. The most interesting of these bridges is towards the end of the street, called the Ponte Chiodo. The Ponte Chiodo dates back to the fifteenth century and is one of the last two bridges that doesn’t have any balustrades to prevent people from falling right into the canal! The city built another bridge just next to it with proper railings but kept the old one as a memory of the past. 

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Scuola Grande della Misericordia

We continue west into Cannaregio across the Ponte della Misericordia to the first of two old schools we will look at. The Scuola Grande della Misericordia dominates the northern side of the sestiere Cannaregio. The Scuola Grande della Misericordia (New School of Mercy) was one of seven Scuole Grandi in Venice. These “Scuole Grandi” or “Great Schools” were religious and charitable organizations. Developed in the 13th century, they were the most important social institutions in the Serenissima Republic of Venice. The secular institutions played a crucial role in the fabric of political and religious life. The Old School of Mercy was built in 1308 in the typical gothic style (we will see this building at the next stop.) 

But as the organization grew in size, a new building was commissioned to house the growing organization. Jacopo Sansovino was brought on to build the “Scuola Nuova,” or New School. Built in 1532, the imposing quadrangular structure was strongly influenced by Roman classicism. Building work continued over the next fifty years; unfortunately, Sansovino died before the building was completed. Today the building is used as a gallery and events space, but the exterior architecture has been preserved for us to admire.

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Scuola Vecchia della Misericordia 

Head northeast on Sestiere Cannaregio toward Campo de l’Abazia. In this small square, you can see the old Chiesa dell’Abbazia della Misericordia in one corner and the original Scuola Vecchia della Misericordia in the other. The Scuola Vecchia della Misericordia (“Old School of Mercy”) was the first seat of the organization. When they built the new school, this building was sold off to the guild of the silk weavers in 1634.

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Casa del Tintoretto

Continue west along Fondamenta de l’Abazia, across the wooden Ponte dei Muti, then along Corte dei Muti and turn left toward Fondamenta dei Mori. Along this canal-side street is the old Casa del Tintoretto. This crumbling old house bears a small plaque with the bust of a man on the top. This is the Casa del Tintoretto, where the artist Tintoretto lived from 1574 to 1594. Tintoretto is one of the few artists who lived and worked in Venice but who was also born here. Many artists flocked to Venice during the Renaissance as the art scene exploded, but Tintoretto was the original trendsetter. His great work helped form the Venetian school of art and even perhaps the artist style which defined the Renaissance itself.

Campo dei Mori

Continuing west, you are greeted by the small, peaceful square Campo dei Mori. As you turn into the square, take note of the strange statue on the corner of the Osteria l’Orto dei Mori. This statue looks almost as if it has a beak. Three carvings were made in the 13th century, one in each corner. They represent the three merchant brothers who famously opposed the Republic of Venice. Back then, it was treason to speak up against your government. In reaction to their controversial attitude, these unflattering carvings were made to mark their treason in stone forever. Years later, their bravery in speaking out against injustice is honoured, and the statues are revered. Venetians today are known to hang satirical comments on these statues. Addressing and airing their problems with local politicians.

Church of Madonna dell’ Orto

Continue north, along the Campo Dei Mori, and head across the bridge. Here you’ll come face to face with the grand Church of Madonna dell Orto. Considering this church’s history and beauty, you’d think it would be overrun with tourists. But, since it’s located so far away from the city centre, often you’ll find this square empty and all to yourself!

The church was first constructed in the mid-14th century for the Humailiati order. Never heard of them? Not surprising since they were ousted from Italy in 1462. Despite their name Humiliati, meaning “humble,” the pope famously referred to them as humiliating. He believed them to take part in sacrilegious behaviours, which included gluttony and lust. One of their members even tried to assassinate archbishop Carlo Borromeo, whose task was to reform their order. While the order was definitely not the most pious, they were certainly great art lovers, which can be seen in the design and decoration of this great church.

Church Facade

This church’s facade is one of my favourite pieces of architecture. There are so many tiny details packed into this small space. The current facade dates back to 1460. The sloped sides of the church are lined with a series of twelve niches, where dozens of statues are placed depicting the twelve Apostles. The niches are each framed in bright white columns creating this very visually powerful ribbon effect along the roofline. On either side of the entrance door are two huge quadruple-mullioned windows that allow light to flow into the church’s interior.

Atop the ornate ogee archway leading into the church is the statue of St. Christopher, the patron saint of travellers. This was the saint the church was initially dedicated to. However, it changed consecration to the Holy Virgin later in the century. On either side of St. Christoper are statues of the Madonna and the Archangel Gabriel. Above St. Christoper, the pointed roof is decorated in small arches and bas-reliefs with geometrical motifs. The large Eastern-style onion-domed bell tower is surrounded by four statues of the Evangelists. And at the very top is a statue of the Redeemer made in white marble.

Church Interior

Enter the church if it’s open, as this church contains some fantastic works of art. As this is the district where Tintoretto lived, this church contains three different pieces from the great artist. Works by Tintoretto in the church include a Presentation in the Temple (South aisle, close to the East end), Adoration of the Golden Calf, Last Judgement (both in the apse, either side of the main altar) and the Four Cardinal Virtues (in the upper storey of the apse, behind the altar), all from 1562 to 1564. Walk into the apse and find your way to the right Chapel. On the floor is a simple engraved tomb where master Tintoretto is now laid to rest. Happily surrounded by his amazing works of art.

Jewish Quarter

From the Campo della Madonna dell’Orto head southwest along the Fondamenta Madona de l’Orto. Turn left onto Calle Loredan, where you’ll pass over a few little wooden bridges. When you arrive at Ponte del Forno, cross over onto the Calle del Forno. Turn right onto Fondamenta dei Ormesini and walk for a few minutes admiring the many different cafes and restaurants along this street beside the canal. When you spot the gorgeous iron bridge covered in swirling filagree, turn left onto Cl. Ghetto Vecchio into the heart of the Jewish Quarter. Hearing the words Jewish Ghetto, you might think we are entering an area built during WWII, but this ghetto had nothing to do with the Nazis. This neighbourhood actually area predates WWII by more than 400 years!

History of the Jewish Quarter in Venice

In 1509, a large portion of the Jewish community from Germany fled the mainland and moved to Venice. Venice had agreed to allow these Jewish refugees to live inside a small neighbourhood on the island of Cannaregio. But in that area alone. The area they were segregated inside was no bigger than an acre and contained hundreds of Jewish refugees. The old district had once been the location of the old copper foundries. The word ghetto was actually coined in Venice. In Italian, the word ghetto or ‘get’ translates to ‘foundry’ or ‘foundries.’ But over time, the word became synonymous with an area where members of a minority group live, as was in the case of the original Jewish ghetto in Venice.

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Although Venice had given them a place to live, that didn’t mean their life was free and easy. Jewish Venetians were forced to make their living only by selling rags and running pawnshops. This was the only type of employment they were allowed to have at the time. The only exception was Jewish doctors and those with skills in the printing press industries. They worked on printing Hebrew texts and keeping their religion and culture alive in the Ghetto Ebraico or Jewish Ghetto.

Merchant of Venice

In the 16th century, Jewish citizens from Spain fleeing the Spanish inquisition also arrived in the ghetto. These Jewish Spaniards developed the narrative of the “merchants of Venice.” They were skilled and sought-after traders and merchants. Soon, the Jewish quarter was the centre of foreign trade in Venice. This new industry brought in a substantial amount of money to the Serenissima, allowing them to stay in business despite previous restrictions on this kind of work in the quarter.

Although Venice allowed Jewish people to live and worship in this area, their lives were highly regulated and segregated. As early as the 16th century, Jewish citizens had to wear either yellow hats or yellow badges to distinguish them from Venetian Christians. The ghetto also had a strict curfew which the residents had to follow. Boats filled with members of the Serenissima would circle the canals at night to ensure no one broke curfew. The punishment for doing so was severe. To many residents, this area must have felt more like a prison than an escape from the persecution they had been trying to flee.

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The First Vertical City

Despite these restrictions, the Jewish quarter’s population grew and flourished. More synagogues began to be constructed. But residential development was difficult. Since they were limited to this small island, their only chance for expansion was to go up vertically. The Jewish quarter in Venice was known to be the first real “vertical city.” Even today, walking around this part of Cannaerigio, you’ll see how much taller these buildings are compared to the rest of the city.

In 1797, Napoleon’s entry into Venice freed the Jewish people from their ghetto. Napoleon abolished these divisions. Jewish Venetians were finally free to buy property throughout the rest of the city. Since they were now some of the wealthiest citizens, they were able to buy up some of the most beautiful palazzos on the Grand Canal. Over the years, these Jewish citizens became as much a part of Venice as any other native Italian. Perhaps because they were such an important part of the fabric of Venetian society, their betrayal at the hands of Italian fascists later in WWII was so devastating. And almost led to their extinction.

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World War II in Venice

Jewish people throughout Europe were rounded up and sent to concentration camps during WWII. But, thanks to the sacrifice of Giuseppe Jona, head of the Jewish Community in Venice, a large portion of Jewish Venetians managed to escape. When the Nazis demanded Jona make a list of Jewish people living in Venice, he agreed but used the time to warn his community. On the day he was told to deliver the list, he burnt the papers and took his own life, fearing he would be murdered for his actions. The Nazis were only able to find 243 Jewish Venetians who were deported. Only eight of them returned home.

Before WWII, Venice had a Jewish population of around 150,000. After the war, little more than 1,200 people returned to their homes. On one side of the Ghetto Nuovo square is a large bronze monument in honour of the victims of the Nazis. It was created in 1980 by artist Arbit Blata. The seven bronze panels depict several horrific tragedies Jewish people suffered during WWII. Today there are merely 450 Jewish Venetians left in Cannaregio. But they work hard to preserve and share their history with locals and visitors alike.

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Scuola Spagnola

The Scuola Spagnola, or Great Spanish Synagogue, is one of the last remaining synagogues in modern Venice. The synagogue was built in 1555, founded by Jewish Venetians who had been expelled from the Iberian peninsula. The great synagogue was built by one of Venice’s most famous architects, Baldassare Longhena. He is also notable for designing other iconic Venetian buildings, such as; the church of the Madonna Della Salute, Ca’ Pesaro and Ca’ Rezzonico. 

But the exterior of the synagogue isn’t anything like these other buildings. The facade is rather austere, with a plain, four-story cream-coloured finish. But it wasn’t for lack of inspiration, funding or skill that the exterior was so lacklustre. It was a condition of the Venetian state government in the 16th century. Although Jewish citizens were allowed to build their own places of worship, they needed to be concealed within a building that gave no appearance of being a house of worship. Essentially hiding their religion from the eyes of Christian Venetians.

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Inscribed upon the arch on the entrance of the building is a piece of script that reads, “Blessed are they that dwell in Thy House and continue to praise Thee.” On the side of the building, there is also a stone plaque with the names of all the deported Jewish Venetian families who suffered death at the hands of the Nazis. Take a moment to pay respect as you pass by.

How to Visit a Synagogue?

Although tourists can’t enter the synagogue on their own (unless attending a service), I recommend booking a guided tour through the Jewish Museum of Venice if you are interested. They have a great connection with the local community, and you know this way you are supporting the preservation of their history through your contributions.

If you were to peek inside, you would be amazed at what you’d find. Stepping inside is like walking into a fantastical jewel box. Ornate carved wooden balustrade frames the ceiling in a variety of geometric shapes. Lavish red velvet curtains with golden tassels hand in front of the windows. Giant brass chandeliers drip from the ceiling and illuminate the rest of the room with warm candlelight. The highlight of the interior is the magestic sanctuary lamp known by its Hebrew name, Ner Tamid. The light inside this holy lamp symbolizes God’s eternal presence, which will never be extinguished.

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Panificio Giovanni Volpe

Just down the street from the old Spanish Synagogue is Panificio Giovanni Volpe, one of Venice’s last remaining kosher bakeries. While visiting the Jewish quarter, it’s a good tourist practice to patronize their businesses. This is such an easy way to ensure their community continues to flourish. In this bakery, they still make many traditional Venetian desserts and also some unique Jewish recipes. Don’t be shy to ask what they recommend! Everything is delicious though.

Guglie Bridge

To cross onto the next island of Santa Croce, we need to pass over the great Guglie Bridge. This crossing was established in 1285 with an early wooden bridge, but the current stone incarnation was built in 1580. The large balustrades which run over either side of the bridge are inlaid with gargoyles that watch over the canal. It is therefore dubbed the “bridge of spies.”

Chiesa di San Geremia

Standing in the centre of the Campo San Geremia is the church of the same name. The Church of San Geremia has stood here since the 13th century, and the old brickwork on the bell tower is some of the only remaining pieces of the original church. The rest of the edifice dates back to 1753.

While the interior lacks any flashy ornamentation, this church is often seen as a pilgrimage sight because it carries the relics of Saint Lucy inside. Saint Lucy is the patron saint of eye illnesses. The story goes that she had devoted her virginity to God and would not marry. To make herself less desirable, she tore out her own eyes. When she was buried in the family mausoleum, they discovered her eyes had been miraculously restored, a sign of her martydom. She is seen frequently in paintings holding a golden plate with a pair of eyes laid upon it. Many people make a pilgrimage to this sight to pray for their own eye related illnesses.

Pasticceria Dal Mas

You’ll find my favourite bakery on the charming Rio Terà Lista di Spagna street. The Pasticceria Dal Mas has some of the best cream-filled pastries in town! Their bright green pistachio cannolis are a dream. There are a few seats inside where you can sit and order an espresso or even an Aperol spritz to enjoy with your food. If you’d rather just stand at the counter and chat, you can also do that; how very Italian of you.

Scalzi Bridge

You’ll come upon the Scalzi Bridge at the end of this street before reaching the train station. The Scalzi Bridge means “bridge of the barefoot monks” in Italian. The first bridge to be built here was right beside the old Carmelite order, also known as the “order of the barefoot monks.” But this current incarnation of the bridge is one of the city’s newest, completed in 1934. While the bridge isn’t as remarkable as some others, its modernity allows it to feel light and airy, almost defying the laws of gravity.

Santa Croce

Walking over the bridge, we are moving into the Santa Croce district. Santa Croce is where you’ll find the large train station, which brings people in and out of Venice every day. Leading to this neighbourhood being referred to as the city’s “transport hub.” Being located away from the top attractions, you’ll also find that Santa Croce has the least amount of tourists. This may be one of the reasons I find it the most pleasant to walk around. The people you’ll find on the street are locals, and there is an honest air about this neighbourhood.

Crossing over the bridge, walk southwest on the Fondamenta del Monastero to tread along water’s edge. This area of the Grand Canal is bustling with action. You’ll find more than just gondolas and vaporettos here. Motorboats carrying fruits and vegetables chug up and down the water, and boats piled with wooden beams and other construction equipment jet over to their various destinations.

Giardini Papadopoli

Turn left down Fondamenta Papadopoli where you’ll quickly see the bright green trees sticking their heads above a brick wall. This is the Giardino Papadopoli, a beautifully manicured garden where locals Venetians come to get some shade and enjoy a bit of green space. The park spans more than 8,800 square meters and was built in 1834. While Venice has ample squares and waterways, there is surprisingly little greenery and lush parkland. The Giardino Papadopoli is Venice’s version of Central Park.

Among the gravel and stone paths are a variety of different trees like cypress, cedar, different fruits, elm, oleander, mulberries, and laurel. If you are even looking for someplace to come to escape the crowds and the noise, this is the oasis you’ve been looking for!

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Campo San Rocco

Walking through the park, exit at the south end, and cross the bridge over to the Calle dei Amai. Walking along the Calle dei Amai (which turns into the Calle de le Sechere) and turn right onto Ramo Cimesin. Ramo Cimesin veers slightly right and becomes Calle Tintoretto, and passes through Campo San Rocco.

Campo San Rocco is a charming square whose centrepiece is the church of San Rocco, an impressive Renaissance structure adorned with intricate marble carvings and frescoes. The surrounding buildings feature colourful facades and elegant balconies, creating a picturesque backdrop for a leisurely stroll or a cup of coffee at one of the outdoor cafes.

Basilica dei Frari

From the Campo San Rocco, walk toward Calle Fianco de la Scuola and continue onto Salizada S. Rocco. Turn left onto Campo dei Frari, where you are immediately struck by the towering Basilica dei Frari or Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. But most people just call it the “Frari” for short. The church is the beating heart of this neighbourhood. In 1231 the Doge Jacopo Tiepolo donated this land to the Franciscans. The original church he had built was very small. As the Franciscans rose to power, they demolished it in exchange for a larger, more impressive design that better reflected their status in the city. The current version we see today was built in the 14th century in a high Venetian Gothic style.

Looming over church is the great campanile, the second tallest tower in the city. The bell tower was built in 1396 and somehow still stands today! The unassuming facade might fool you into thinking at first blush this church isn’t very important. But in actuality, it is perhaps one of the most significant churches in the entire city.

Entry into the Church

There is a small fee to enter the church (€ 3,00), but it is more than worth it to gaze upon the interior of this church and the famous works of art found inside.

Titian

Many Doges were buried here under the watchful eye of masterful works of art by the painter Titian. Titian, a Venetian himself, painted the great altarpiece inside the church. The Assumption of the Virgin by Titian is one of the first things your eye is drawn toward as you enter the church. It sits behind the high altar, lit by the glow of the stained glass windows behind it. This piece is perhaps the best example of Titan’s masterful work. Setting the standard for Venetian art during the Renaissance.

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Titian died of the plague at 94 years old, and a memorial to his life and death stands inside the great Basilica. The monument is gigantic! Looking like a small structure rather than a statue. A version of his famous painting is carved in relief into the stone. The image of the great master himself sitting in front. On either side of the artist are two figures representing universal nature and the genius of knowledge. The other four figures set in between the large columns represent Painting, Sculpture, Graphic Art and Architecture, each one being a critical force possessed by Titian’s art.

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Campo Santa Margherita

From the church, head south through the Campo dei Frari. Turn right along Salizada San Rocco and left onto Calle S. Rocco. Cross over the Sestiere Dorsoduro and continue south down Calle S. Pantalon as it passes over the bridge, and the street turns into the Sestiere Dorsoduro. Leading you right in the Campo Santa Margherita.

The Campo Santa Margherita is a huge square in Dorsoduro District. Surrounding this square are houses that date back to the 14th and 15th centuries. Cafes have a tremendous amount of outdoor space in this large square, so you’ll hear the murmur of people laughing and the clinking of wine glasses at all hours of the day. Lovers lounge on the bright red benches, kissing under the sunlight. If you’re tired, this is a great place to end the tour early if you don’t want to explore the rest of the Dorsoduro District.

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Dorsoduro District

The Dorsoduro district is located on the bottom of the Venetian islands. This area borders the Grand Canal and the Venetian Lagoon, making it a prime spot for traders to live. While it’s not as flashy as the other districts, think of this as a blue-collar neighbourhood. I still find it to be one of the most charming areas in Venice. Dorsoduro lacks the pretensions of the other spots. Since it’s home to Venice’s Ca’ Foscari University, you’ll also find the new blood of Venetian society, its students, who liven up the streets with modern music, food and entertainment.

Ponte dei Pugni

Head to the southern end of the Campo Santa Margherita and make a sharp left onto the Rio Terà Canal. Turn right to stay on Rio Terà Canal until you reach the Ponte dei Pugni. I love the view from this bridge. If you look towards the west, you can see the brick bell tower from the church of Santa Maria del Carmelo sticking its head up above the other buildings. 

On either side of the bridge are a pair of footsteps marked onto the stones. This marking reveals a strange practice from the 18th century. Whenever two rival families were feuding, they would come here to battle it out with their fists. Unlike gun duals in the United States which were common to settle violent disputes, Venetians would fight each other with their fists. The first one to fall into the canal off this bridge was deemed the loser.

Cantine del Vino già Schiavi

We are approaching the evening by this time, but it’s not time for just yet dinner. Oh no, first we must have an aperitif! And one of the best places to get it in Dorsoduro is Cantine del Vino già Schiavi. This bar sells Cicchetti (small snacks), which include Venetian classics like crostini topped with salt cod and wild garlic, pistachio cream or aioli with flower petals. Grab an Aperol spritz to drink while standing at the bar to feel very much like a local.

Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese

Head northeast until you reach the Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese. This narrow street is filled with a variety of different shops. Being so far away from the touristy areas, these stores are known to sell authentic Venetian goods but at reasonable prices. In addition to the tourist shops, you’ll also find unique boutiques, which are a great way to support local businesses.

Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute

If you’re still feeling up for it, continue walking through Dorsoduro, eastwards, along the Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese (which turns into Piscina Forner.) Continue onto Calle de la Chiesa and make a slight left onto Fondamenta Venier dai Leon walking along as it becomes Fondamenta Venier dai Leon. Turns left along Dorsoduro Street and follow the street into the Campiello Barbaro. Walk east along the Calle Barbaro as it becomes Calle San Gregorio and veer onto Calle de l’Abazia.

Stepping onto the stone of the Fondamenta Salute, you find yourself standing in front of the stunning white marble church of Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute. Take a moment to both soak in the view of the church but also turn around to look at the great view of Saint Mark’s square across the river. This is where we first started the tour, and it’s amazing to see this spot from another perspective.

The Venetian Plague

In 1630 Venice was being ravaged by the plague. At the time, one of the ways people thought you could stop the plague was by making an offering to God and praying he would send deliverance to the city. So, the Republic of Venice built the church of Our Lady of Health as a last resort. Eventually, the plague period passed, and the city was able to start rebuilding itself. Nearly a third of the population of Venice died during the plague. Those that survived would remember that harrowing experience forever. Since the church was made in honour of stopping the plague, most of the art and symbolism you’ll find throughout the church in some way refers to death or the plague. Making it a very uniquely themed church. 

The Dome

The church is most notable for its humongous white dome, which dominates the sky. The dome, which almost seems to defy gravity, became a symbol of inspiration for artists in the city. To support the huge dome and weighty marble church, 1 million wooden piles were used to hold up the floating building.

Zattere

To finish the evening, walk down south towards the island’s far edge. The stone promenade which flanks the large waterway is called the Zattere. Zattere in Italian means rafts. In the 16th century, timber would arrive in the city on large rafts. Timber was not only used to construct the walls of grand palazzos and houses in Venice; it was literally the ground on which the houses were built. Timber was one of the most important imports in the city. It was also used to make gondolas up until the 18th century. Suffice it to say, the city was built around the timber industry, so its importance is not to be ignored. The earliest parts of the Zattere date as far back as 1520. Today the wide promenade is a great place to watch the sunset, reflection down against the mirror like waters of the canals.

Trattoria San Basilio

If you’re feeling like you would like to dine somewhere close to your accommodation, there are Vaporetto stops all along the Fondamenta Zattere. But if you’re looking for something special along the water’s edge but away from the touristy hub, you should check out Trattoria San Basilio.

This down-to-earth restaurant is located inside the corner of one of the older buildings in the Zattere. It barely looks like a restaurant except for the awning and a few tables and chairs out front. But don’t let its modesty fool you; here, you’ll find a relaxing atmosphere, friendly staff, and traditional Venetian cuisine. Their seafood spaghetti with mussels, clams and squid tastes so fresh you’d swear the food jumped right onto your plate straight from the water. Try to get a spot outside to enjoy the sunset or watch as gondolas paddle past into the moonlight.

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Phew, well, that brings us to the end of this tour. Hopefully, if you packed this all into one day, you found things along the way to return to see tomorrow! Let me know which neighbourhood was your favourite or what you’re most looking forward to visiting!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

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Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Venice Walking Tour [UPDATED 2024] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Walking Tour
2. History of Kyoto
3. Higashi Honganji Temple
4. The Founder’s Hall Gate
5. Kyosendo
6. Tofu Shop
7. Ayako Tenmangu Shrine
8. Walden Woods Kyoto
9. Fabric Stores
10. Ichihime Jinja
11. Ame-no-Mana-I Well
12. Gojo Rakuen
13. Takase River
14. Artists Studios
15. Yamauchi Nintendo
16. Shomem-bashi Bridge
17. Kanshundo Higashimisea
18. Toyokuni Shrine
19. Hoko-ji Temple

Map of Walking Tour

History of Kyoto

Although Kyoto is a modern city with 2.5 million inhabitants, it has a quiet, traditional side. Kyoto has evidence of settlements as early as the 6th century. But during the 8th century, Buddhists travelled to Kyoto from China to establish a new village that would become Kyoto.

In the 16th century, Toyotomi Hideyoshi designed urban Kyoto using rectangular and square blocks of houses. Everything was designed to be accessible and easy to navigate, much like the grid structure New York is modelled on today.

The Divison of Kyoto

The city of Kyoto, once the capital of Japan, was established in a precise location for a particular reason. The Buddhists of the period said that a city should only be built in a place where four gods can protect it. There needed to be a mountain to the North, a river to the east, a road to the west, and a plain with water to the south.

Kami of Kyoto

Each one of those elements represented a different Kami (Japanese god). The Tortoise god was represented by the North Mountains Hiei and Atago. The West Road represented the White Tiger God, which connected Japan to all the major cities to the west. The Red Phoenix god was characterized by the Uji River and the south plains. And finally, the great Dragon God was represented by the eastern Kamo River. These elements made Kyoto the perfect spot, as per Chinese legends.

Because Kyoto was saved from the extensive bombings by the USA in WWII, the town has preserved much of its original architecture. Walking along these backstreets, there are ordinary residential houses that feel like museum pieces. A piece of history from another time and place. And yet they are just as ubiquitous as anything else on the street.

Higashi Honganji Temple

Our tour begins at the Higashi Honganji Temple. The temple complex is enormous as Higashi Honganji is one of Japan’s most prominent Buddhist denominations, and this is its headquarters. Higashi Honganji has approximately 10,000 local temples, 50 regional offices and over 200 temples overseas.

Goeido and Amidado Halls

The two buildings standing in the centre of the grounds are the Goeido Hall (dedicated to Shinran, the sect’s founder) and the Amidado Hall (dedicated to the Amida Buddha, the most important Buddha in Jodo-Shin Buddhism). These buildings are of great historical importance and have been designated as UNESCO world heritage sites. We begin here because these incredible structures were the blueprint onto which even the most modest house, garden or shrine was built to emulate. You’ll see details from the temples here everywhere you look, in small bits and pieces as we go!

Cleansing Yourself Before Entering

Before entering the shrine, it is customary that you wash your hands. Washing is a means of cleansing the body before stepping onto the sacred ground. At the entrance to the temple, with a fierce dragon spewing water. Beneath him is a series of ladles. Take a spoon and, with water, pour it over one hand and the other. Finally, fill the scoop with water and pour it into your cupped hands. Rinse your mouth and spit the water beside the fountain (NOT INTO IT). Many visitors skip the mouth rinsing part, so if you’re not up for that, just be sure to cleanse your hands. Even if you are not religious, doing this is seen as a sign of respect in your visit to the temple.

Shin Buddism

Jōdo Shinshū, or Shin Buddhism, started in 1173. It is the most popular form of Buddhism practised in Japan, partly due to its simple methods. Shin Buddhism “focuses on daily practice, open-minded reflection, and the direct and personal religious experience of the transcending mystery of life, symbolized by Amida Buddha.“

Goeido Hall

The Goeido Hall is one of Japan’s largest wooden structures. Originally built in the Edo period (1603–1868), the current structure is a faithful reconstruction of the Meiji period (1868–1912).

Inside the main hall, you’ll find a peaceful spot for meditation. The high ceilings are dotted with golden chandeliers in the shape of blooming lotus flowers. 90 wooden pillars support the roof, complete with organically shaped capitals. Delicate tatami mats cover the floor, their light colour contrasting with the dark wood surrounding it. A large golden altar sits on a raised platform in front of the hall. On top of the altar is a wooden statue depicting “Shinran,” the founder of the Jodo Shinshu sect.

Amida Hall

Opposite the main hall, connected by a long wooden ramp, is the Amida Hall. This building was rebuilt in 1895 and contains a statue of the all-mighty “Amida Buddha.” Throughout the complex, you’ll pass through these large wooden walkways. The design of the walkways makes you feel as though they are extensions of the main structures, like limbs reaching out. Such a complex design displays the architectural prowess of the Edo period.

Dioramas

Outside on the walkway, you’ll find some small exhibits about the construction of the halls. In one, we can see a little diorama which depicts how the lumber was transported from the forests to the temple. In another scene, workers are fleeing an avalanche; some look like they’re not going to make it! The dioramas convey how some people had to risk their lives, so this temple could be created, and this exhibit pays homage to their sacrifice.

In another glass case, we can see an enormous, dark rope. It’s as thick as an oil drum and, shockingly, was created entirely from human hair. Female Buddhists would donate their hair to the temple to be turned into these strong ropes. This would help workers move the lumber into place and was one of the most important tools of the temple’s construction.

The Founder’s Hall Gate

Although multiple gates are used to access the temple grounds, the most impressive of all the gates is “The Founder’s Hall Gate.” The gate was built in 1911 and is over 92 feet tall. It is quite opulent and has two roofs, stacked one on top of the other. This creates a layered effect like on a pagoda.

Along the temple’s exterior runs a small moat filled with lily pads and lotus, flanked by rows of Japanese black pines. The green trees set against the beige structures against a blue sea sky are one of the best colour combinations out there!

Kyosendo

After touring the temple, we head away from the tourists and into the real backstreets of Kyoto. Head to Kyosendo, where craftsmen and women keep old traditions alive. In this shop, artists create and assemble Japanese fans in the same manner as they have been made for hundreds of years.

History of Japanese Fans

The first appearance of fans in Japan was in the early 6th century, brought over from China, although these fans did not fold but were completely flat. They were also very large and needed to be operated by a servant since they were too big to hold in your hand.

Legend has it that the Japanese folding fan was invented when a craftsman serving the emperor saw a bat and was inspired by the design of its wings. The fact that the fan could fold made it easier to hold in your hand when not in use and could travel more effectively.

Varieties of Fans

There are three main varieties of Japanese fans; the feather, the folding fan and the brisé. Traditional Japanese fans are magnificently painted with images of pines, chrysanthemums, birds, plums, cherry blossoms and more! Every design contains a rush of symbols representing Japan or even hints at a theme important to the person for which the fan is being made.

For 250 years, Japan remained closed off from international trading, and when its doors were finally opened, its exports were highly sought-after items. Japanese fans began flooding the North American and European marketplaces, some of the most fashionable accessories. At this shop, you cannot only look at the artisans still making these fans but buy one to take home for yourself.

Tofu Shop

Opposite the fan shop, you’ll almost always hear a clamouring surrounding a glass refrigerator case. People come and go at all hours to buy fresh, locally-made tofu.

Inside the shop, there is a sweet fragrance that fills the air. Well-worn machines surround the outer walls of the shop, and women in aprons mull about pouring hot soy milk into plastic moulds. They sprinkled each square with magnesium chloride (which is the magic ingredient that turns soy milk into tofu.) Tofu is to Kyoto as pizza is to New York. Wide varieties are made all over Japan, but nowhere does it better than Kyoto.

History of Tofu in Japan

The tofu was first brought to Kyoto by Buddhist monks in the 6th century, who could not eat meat or dairy as an alternative protein. This tofu is extra creamy, and you can taste just how fresh it is. It’s almost like pudding! In addition to tofu, they also made little pastry-like buns from the leftover soy, which people from all over town come to purchase at lunchtime. Try one for yourself! A great treat that ensures nothing goes to waste.

Ayako Tenmangu Shrine

Continue down the streets until you come upon the Ayako Tenmangu Shrine. Sitting outside the shrine is a large stone sculpture of a bull. The bull is the symbol of health in Japan, and this shrine is dedicated to bringing health to your body and mind. The shrine is very popular during exam season when students come here to pray for academic success!

Walden Woods Kyoto

Fabric Stores

Along the backstreets of Kyoto, you’ll stumble upon almost every kind of shop! Some streets seemed completely residential, and suddenly, you’ll come across a high fashion kimono shop selling one-of-a-kind garments for Japanese weddings. These store hours are very sporadic, so I didn’t want to list anyone in particular, but weaving your way up to our next destination is a great way of discovering something for yourself!

Kimono shops, wedding kimono shops especially, are spectacular! The colours were stunning, and the amount of layering is almost impossible to imagine how these women managed to walk effortlessly and look graceful under all that weighty cloth. But fashion comes at a price!

Family Cemetery

Stop at this family-run shrine and cemetery located at the northern end of town. Here you can take a moment to learn about how the Japanese experience death.

About Japanese Cemeteries

In Japan, entire families are buried altogether. One giant stone displays their family name, and the wooden sticks surrounding it refer to the different family members who have passed; unlike in North America, where we don’t visit cemeteries all that often, it is very common in Japan to visit your family tombstone weekly. You would bring with you things your loved one cherished in life, like; beer, food or even sometimes something to read. Japanese families keep their loved ones close, even in death.

Ichihime Jinja

After a short rest or a beverage stop at one of the many street vending machines, head back out to find the Ichihime Jinja shrine. Ichihime Jinja is best known for its protection of women. All the gods worshipped here are female deities. The shrine was once even featured on a popular Japanese TV show, and ever since, women from all over the world have come here to receive the blessings of the maternal deities.

Omikuji

The Omikuji fortunes at this shrine are unique as they are stuffed inside cute, red wooden dolls in the shape of a lady. Each one has a different hand-painted face and holds within it a secret fortune. If you receive a negative fortune, tie it up on the wall with the other to ensure the bad omen doesn’t come to pass.

How to Pray

Towards the back area of the shrine is where you’ll find the haiden. This is where you pay your respects to the gods. First, drop a coin into the offering box. Next, you need to ring the bell. Ringing this bell is important in the prayer process as it lets the gods know you’re there. Ring the suzu bell, bow twice, clap your hands twice, and bow once more.

Ame-no-Mana-I Well

Besides the shrine, you’ll find the famous Ame-no-Mana-I well. This well was once used by royal families, and it is said that cleansing yourself in the springs of the well will result in your wish being granted.

Gojo Rakuen

Further along, find your way to the Gojo Rakuen area. This neighbourhood used to be the old red light, Geisha district. Although real geishas weren’t like prostitutes (they were more like companions and entertainers), various women of the night would dress like geisha and offer up their “services” to gain a particular type of clientele in this area. Brothels inside wooden teahouses were once the main establishment on these streets.

Fifth Street Paradise

Gojo Rakuen translates into “fifth street paradise.” That “paradise” refers to all the “pleasure” services once offered here. A strange feature could identify these houses of ill-repute. Unlike the red lights district in Amsterdam, where the houses were lit up with red lights to identify them as brothels, Japanese brothels were identifiable by having a fish tank outside their open door.

After becoming a seedy part of town, many branches of the Yakuza (the Japanese mafia) also moved into the area, making it an off-limits place for many Japanese people for years. Only now, after the Yakuza had been exiled from Kyoto, can people walk these streets without fear.

Takase River

Unlike European cities, where houses along the river bank are seen as some of the most desirable properties in the city, the houses along the riverbank in Kyoto are old, wooden townhomes. Some almost falling apart. They are humble houses that have yet to be swept up in the wave of urbanization.

Walking through these streets, many old tea houses and traditional restaurants remain. No trendy cafes or loud bars. These streets keep the vestiges of the old ways. Take a minute to stop along the bridge across the Takase River for a hydration break! It’s amazing in a city as famous as Kyoto, you can find such peace and quiet.VVVVVVVVVVV

Artists Studios

Due to the run-down nature of this area, and the low real estate prices, artists began to flock to this part of town. Here they could work on their craft; soon, these backstreets became a wash of artists and craftspeople. Walking, you might see people selling wares outside their front door. No official shop, just ceramics laid out in a box with an honour system for payment. I managed to poke my head into a small studio with open doors.

Inside, an old Japanese woman, surrounded by paint brushes and books, sat there painting the tiniest details onto a minuscule clay figurine. Japanse pottery is one of the oldest art forms in the country, and this woman was preserving its legacy. Surrounding her were hundreds of reference books, patterns, antique pottery and more.

Visiting Artists Workshops

Her face was so serious, but when she looked up, and I complimented her on her work, she smiled so wide – even after all these years, it still made her happy to see her work was appreciated. Hidden in the nooks and crannies of her studio were some of her pieces ready to be sent to high-end shops all over Kyoto.

Yamauchi Nintendo

Before heading across the bridge, we passed the former headquarters of Nintendo. This was their main location when Nintendo was just a Japanese playing card company established in 1889. Long before it had anything to do with Mario or Luigi. Inside this building was where Pokemon was first invented. The quiet street was very unassuming, and it was unbelievable that years later, Pokemon would become one of the most popular past times for kids worldwide.

Shomem-bashi Bridge

Crossing the Kamogawa river, we head over the Shomen-bashi bridge. This is a more modern bridge than the original one, which once stood here. It was built in 1952, but nonetheless, it keeps in line with the aesthetics of the area’s original architecture.

From the bridge, you can see both sides of Kyoto and the mountains in the background. On hot summer days, the riverbank is filled with tourists and locals relaxing alongside. On either part of the riverbank, balconies from restaurants and old townhouses overlooked the waters.

Kanshundo Higashimisea

Across the bridge, stop at Kanshundo Higashimise. This traditional candy shop has been in business for over 150 years. The sweet shop sells wagashi sweets made by skilled artisans who turn sugar into coin-sized delicate works of art in all magical shapes. These handmade treats always have seasonal touches. Since it was autumn when we were there, the chefs had different autumnal flavours added to the wagashi.

Wagashi

Take a seat at the back, where you can order a cup of green tea and a sample of one of their handmade desserts. The wagashi was made to perfectly complement the slightly bitter flavour of the green tea.
The ingredients for wagashi are fairly simple; it’s only sugar, rice flour, and some additional flavouring. But the decoration, shape and complex flavours make an otherwise simple treat into something fantastical. These treats are often served at tea ceremonies or special occasions.

Toyokuni Shrine

After a quick snack, head over to Toyokuni Shrine. Originally constructed in 1599, the shrine was built in memory of the great leader, Tokugawa Ieyasu. Tokugawa Ieyasu wanted to be treated like a god after his death and had his followers build this great shrine where people could worship his memory after his passing. But his popularity proved to be his demise, even after death. The next ruler, Toyokuni, was jealous of the dead leader’s reputation and had the shrine destroyed. The new leader had a new shine built in his honour on the same spot. Just to spite the old ruler.

Karamon Gate

The karamon gate you walk through to enter the shrine is rumoured to have been moved from the historic Fushimi Castle. This gate is one of Japan’s most iconic karamon gates, and people travel from all over to view its striking architectural design. Despite being over 400 years old, much of the gold leaf decorating the outside of the gate is from the original structure. The gate has been so lovingly cared for; therefore, even the oldest details were well preserved.

The gate was built in the Momoyama period when Japanese architecture broke away from many aspects of Chinese architecture to create its own style. Carved onto the gate are images of cranes made by Hidari Jingoro, one of the most famous carvers of the 16th century. The cranes all possess no eyes because, as the legend goes, if they had eyes, they would simply fly away and not stand and protect the temple.

Toyotomi Hideyoshi

Entombed inside the shrine is Toyotomi Hideyoshi himself, and many people visit the shrine simply to pray near his tomb. They hope their prayers will transfer some of his power to them.

Toyotomi’s family crest is a cluster of gourds. Today, you can purchase an ema in the shape of a gourd. Emas are wooden prayer plaques where worshippers can write their prayers or wishes. Another popular item the shrine is known for is its amulets called “Samuhara,” which are said to ward off misfortunes.

Hoko-ji Temple

Adjacent to the shrine is an ageing temple containing an enormous bell. These are the remnants of the ancient Hoko-ji Temple. Hoko-ji Temple was once one of the greatest temples in Japan, but after many wars, earthquakes and fires, all that remains is the giant bell. This part is hidden off to the side of the temple, sitting in the middle of a run-down parking lot. But it is absolutely worth your time to come and see it!

This prayer bell is the largest in Japan. It is 4.2 meters high and weighs a whopping 82 tonnes!

If you crane your head over the barrier, you can see restored engravings and paintings that decorate the ceiling of the bell’s roof.

Not many people visit this temple, as it’s not one of the most notable. But as such, it was such a peaceful place to contemplate life and end our tour of the backstreets of Kyoto.

I hope you enjoyed this backstreets tour. Finding hidden treasures along the way is my favourite part of travel, so don’t hesitate the share your favourite unknown aspects of this incredible, historical city!

Happy Travel Adventurers!

The post Exploring the Hidden Secrets of Kyoto, an Alternative Walking Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
3. #1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
4. #2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán
5. #3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza
6. #4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán
7. #5 Learn about Mexico's Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares
8. #6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul
9. #7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated
10. #8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho
11. #9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán
12. #10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa
13. #11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina
14. #12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
15. #13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán
16. #14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, Line 3 to Coyoacan Station, but the station is a bit of a walk from the main areas of the tour. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, and mythology with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer the land they controlled.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores in 1519 the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexicas, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and gardens.

#1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

#2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours. They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions.

The Monastery

The monastery is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

#3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th-century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

#4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán

The Mercado de Coyoacán has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, marketplace was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Shopping in the Market

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan ! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shtrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

El Borrego de Oro

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

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#5 Learn about Mexico’s Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares

The National Museum of Popular Culture is one of the most vibrant museums you’ll visit anywhere in the world. Rather than old painting or ancient relics, the museum focuses on temporary exhibitions which rotate and change throughout the year. They call themselves a living entity. There is always something new to see. But regardless of what is on exhibition, there will also be items featuring expressions of popular, indigenous and urban cultures. The museum is a great place to come to learn about Mexico’s current culture and art scene. 

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#6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

#7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

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#8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick-me-up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

#9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán

This ice cream shop across from the park has been serving up traditional flavours of ice cream inspired by the many different fruits which grow only around this part of the country. Don’t recognize the name or a certain flavour? Give it a try! You might be totally shocked to find a new favourite flavour, even if you had no idea what it actually was. This is an especially good treat if you’re visiting on a hot day. Grab a few scoops and relax under the shade of the park nearby.

#10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán. Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

#11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina

The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

#12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings!

There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century. In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple.

#13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

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#14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

The Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives has 30 different movie theatres housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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The post 14 of the Best Places to Visit in Coyoacán to Spend the Perfect Day in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.