Table Of Contents

1. Map of 2-Days in Bruges Itinerary
2. Where to Stay?
3. History of Bruges
4. Day One in Bruges
5. Day Two in Bruges

Map of 2-Days in Bruges Itinerary

Why Spend at Least 48 Hours in Bruges?

Many people visiting Bruges skip staying the night and instead choose to visit either on a day-trip bus tour or a quick stopover on their way through Belgium. But I strongly encourage you to stay at least one night in the city. This way, you can properly experience the atmosphere of this ancient city, both during the day and at night. The town’s true nature comes alive once the heavy loads of day-tripping tourists disappear in the later afternoon. Locals open their doors, and the city feels more than just a postcard but a living piece of history.

Where to Stay?

Budget Option: Hotel Fevery

Hotel Fevery in Bruges is a cozy, family-run retreat just a short walk from the city center. Known for its warm and homely atmosphere, this charming hotel offers comfortable, spotless rooms and a delicious breakfast. Guests appreciate the friendly, attentive staff who go above and beyond to ensure a pleasant stay, making Hotel Fevery a perfect blend of comfort and convenience for a memorable visit to Bruges.

Mid-Range Option: Boutique Hotel Sablon

Boutique Hotel Sablon is a stylish four-star hotel located just five minutes from Grote Markt square. The hotel offers plush suites with freestanding bathtubs and lounge areas. The decor combines modern style with historic elements, featuring contemporary art and a luxurious Living Room bar. It’s a perfect choice for travelers seeking a balance of comfort and elegance without breaking the bank​.

Luxury Option: Hotel De Orangerie

For a more luxurious stay, consider Hotel De Orangerie. This boutique hotel is set in a beautifully restored 15th-century building along the Den Dijver canal. The hotel offers elegant rooms with antique furnishings and modern amenities. Guests can enjoy high tea in the plush dining room or on the terrace by the canal. The hotel’s central location makes it easy to explore Bruges’ top attractions​.

History of Bruges

Bruges is not just a gothic-looking town; it is a gothic town. The streets are still lined with stones older than perhaps even my home country, and even the most ubiquitous family home looks like a gothic paradise. Bruges is a UNESCO-protected city, and as such, historians ensure that everything remains unchanged from its perpetual state of gothic opulence. Any renovations undertaken to protect buildings from the perils of old age are done with lots of research and employ only old materials to fix or repair any damage.

Bruges first established itself as a settlement in the 9th century. Since Bruges was a city settled on the river, connected to the North Sea, it immediately became a hub for international trade. The name Bruges is derived from the word Bryggia, an old Scandinavian word meaning harbour.  Bruges was northwest Europe’s most important trade centre in the Middle Ages. It specialized in Flemish cloth, one of the most essential products in medieval times, as it was used to sew clothing for everyone from villagers to the royal family. Because the cloth market was exploding nationwide, more and more money poured into the city. The overwhelming wealth meant Bruges could build some of Europe’s most impressive pieces of medieval architecture.

The Growth of the City of Bruges

Throughout the 15th and 16th centuries, Bruges fluctuated under an ever-changing economy. While other European cities were able to expand, Bruges remained a small town. It couldn’t keep up with the worldwide growth and eventually lost its position as the leading trade city to Antwerp, with a population that doubled its own. Bruges slowly fell out of the limelight and disappeared from European high society.

In the 1800s, Bruges became the most impoverished city in Belgium as all trade routes into the city had shut. It is perhaps this period of poverty that we have to thank for the preservation of the city’s historic architecture. There was no money for renovations, expansion or modernization. In the mid-19th century, when the tourism industry started to creep outside the major cities into the countryside, people began discovering this untouched town gem. People from all over fell in love with the historic-artistic culture they found here, left untouched by urbanization.

Day One in Bruges

The Grote Markt

The best place to start your tour is in the Grote Markt, which serves as the centre of Bruges. It seems fitting to begin your journey in the area that brought Bruges all its wealth. The first known marketplace was built here in the 10th century. Later, in the 12th century, a wooden market hall was developed to help house fish, cloth imports, and exports. The square turned from a simple shopping area into a meeting place for jousting tournaments, weddings, royal parades and even executions. The square is still used today as a marketplace despite the passage of time.

In 1996, the square was converted into a pedestrian zone where horse-drawn carriages and bicycles were the only modes of transportation allowed. Tourists can wander and gaze up at the buildings around them without fear of being hit by a car. And gaze up, you will!

Bruges Belfy

Looming over Markt Square stands the Belfry Tower atop the infamous Cloth Hall. The Belfry was built in 1240 but needed to be rebuilt in 1280 after a fire ravaged the first building. If the octagonal-shaped top looks slightly unfinished, you’d be correct in thinking so. The tower was once topped with a great spire. There were various spires, but each was the victim of lightning strikes, reducing them all to ash. There is a famous poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow which goes, “In the marketplace of Bruges stands the Belfry old and brown; Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilt. Still, it watches o’er the town.”

Bell in the Belfry

In the medieval ages, the Belfry’s bells were the only indicator citizens had to tell the start of the workday, signal for fire, or even begin a festival or event. In the 16th century, a 35-set carillon was installed in the tower. A carillon is a set of bells that could be played using a keyboard below the tower, creating a more musical sound than a few single bells rung from ropes ever could.

You can still climb the 366 steps to the top of the tower, as patrolmen once did, to look out for fires that could have destroyed this incredible city. The view from the top is unequalled and worth the time and effort.

“French” Fries in Bruges

At the bottom of the Belfry Tower is a local French Fry vendor who serves some of the most delicious Belgian fries. There are ongoing disputes over the term “french fries” and its origin. The Belgians insist it was them. The story goes that when American armies were stationed in Belgium, the Flemish military served them one of their favourite (and inexpensive) meals—fried potato strips.

The American army LOVED them and took the recipe back home. They called them french fries since French was the local language in Belgium then, and the Americans assumed they were in France. While the French aren’t known for selling fries on the street, the Belgians have perfected the snack on the go. They serve them alongside mustard and mayonnaise dipping sauce, an oddly delicious side dish that is the perfect thing to eat to keep you going throughout your tour.

While chowing down on your snack, take a moment to study the brightly coloured buildings surrounding that square. Each one is topped with iconic crow-stepped gables, which have become the quintessential characteristic of Bruges. 

Statue of Jan Breydel and Pierter de Conick

Take a seat in the centre of the square, beneath the grand statue of Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck. These two men are local heroes known for leading the uprising against the invading French in 1302 and keeping Bruges a part of Belgium.

Provincial Hof

Across from the statue is the Provincial Hof or Provincial Court. The building now houses the government of West Flander and a local post office, but hundreds of years ago, it was home to the largest port in Bruges. Initially built in 1294, it was demolished in 1787 and rebuilt in a neogothic style reminiscent of its original Gothic architecture. One of the most iconic parts of its design is the bright red dormer windows, which pop out of the stone grey roof.

Hendrik and Gustaaf Pickery designed all the interior decorations; intricate stained glass windows and exquisite ironwork cover the rooms like wild vines. The statues and murals within depict scenes of famous personalities from West Flanders and provide a visual history of the building of their great city.

Chocolatier Dumon

Dumon Chocolates are among the most popular souvenirs people bring home from Bruges. Belgium is known worldwide for its chocolate creations, and Dumon has found a way to perfect the art. Established in 1992, this family-run business expanded around Belgium, but their first family-run shop was in Bruges.

As you open the door, you are overwhelmed with melting chocolate’s sweet and slightly bitter scent. The tiny shop is almost no wider than arm’s length but is charmingly cluttered. Chocolates glisten behind glass cabinets, and you can’t help but start to drool. While there are no labels, the kind employees (all family members) will lovingly tell you about all the different kinds of chocolate and prepare a customized box with all your favourites. They speak English in addition to French and Belgian, but if you can’t communicate, you can’t go wrong with anything inside.

Hof Bladelin

Walking past Dumon, along the narrow streets and alleyways, you come upon Hof Bladelin. Hof Bladelin was once an aristocratic mansion, which has now been converted into a home for the elderly and a small museum. The Hof Bladelin was initially built in 1451 as the house of Pieter Bladelin and his wife, Margaret of Vagewierre. Pieter was the counsellor and treasurer for Philip the Good, the Duke of Burgundy.

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At the time, he was one of the wealthiest men in Bruges and wanted to build a house, which reflected his enormous wealth. The Bladelins had no children, and after their death, the house came up for auction in 1472. It was purchased by the Medicis, a powerful Florentine banking family known for coveting the most beautiful pieces of art and architecture from the world’s greatest artists.

The Hof Bladelin has the architectural design of a Gothic castle. The Renaissance courtyard was designed in Italian and added to the building by the Medici family. There are still stone medallion portraits of Lorenzo de Medici and his wife in the courtyard. The ribbed vaulted ceiling in the interiors has some unique corbels adorned with scenes depicting Bladelin’s duties and the life of St. Alphege of Canterbury.

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The Poortersloge

The Poortersloge, or Burgher’s Lodge, is an exemplary model of Gothic architecture in Bruges. It was built at the end of the 14th century and served as a meeting place for the burghers (town or city’s citizens). One can admire its magnificent façade, decorated with stone figures; one is of the legendary bear, Beertje van de Logie, dated 1417. In the past, banquets and festivities were held here; nowadays, the building contains historical documents.

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Cambrius

If you’re feeling peckish, stop off at the Cambrinus pub. The building oozes history. The original pub was built here in 1699, and despite a few updates, much of the place remains the same. When you arrive, the waiter will bring you a book the size of a dictionary with over 400 varieties of beer listed and vivid descriptions in various languages.

There truly is something for everyone. In addition to the best beer list in the country, their traditional Brugian food is also to die for. The rabbit stew is my favourite and will warm you up from the inside out if you are travelling in any of the colder months.

Burg Square

After lunch, make your way over to Burg Square. This square is one of the city’s most stunningly medieval parts. Architectural gems from the Gothic era to the Renaissance and the Neo-Classical Revival surround it from all sides.

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Burg Town Hall

Burg Town Hall, or “Stadhuis,” is the oldest building in the square. It was built in 1376 in a truly Gothic fashion. Standing between the bright red-painted windowsills are statues of men from the Court of Flanders intermingled with biblical figures. Each one looked down at the townspeople below, guiding them in their daily lives.

Sandwiched between the Town Hall is the Palace of the Liberty, which once served as the Old Court House for over 200 years. Its brilliant white painted facade with gold trim is decorated like a cake, with the golden Lady of Justice statue as the cherry on top. 

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Basilica of the Holy Blood

The Basilica of the Holy Blood stands in the corner of the square, tucked away so tightly it almost seems to disappear. This 14th-century church holds one essential item, a vial of “Holy Blood,” believed to be drops of blood and water washed from the body of Christ. 

Behind its dark, richly decorated facade hides an even more ornamental interior. The interior houses two chapels, each opposite the other. The upper chapel is the crown jewel of West Flanders in high Gothic style. From floor to ceiling, there are darkly painted murals depicting the Holy Trinity and various scenes of the journey of the Holy Blood Relic to Bruges. Vividly painted stained glass windows provide the only natural light inside the chapel. Little modern lighting has been installed inside to ensure the murals don’t fade with time.

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Heilig-Bloedbasiliek

The Holy Blood relic is embedded in a rock-crystal vial and placed inside a glass cylinder framed with two golden crowns. It is only shown to the public on certain days of the week, so check the schedule if you’re making a pilgrimage just to see it. It is housed inside a silver tabernacle with a picture of the Lamb of God on the front when it is not displayed. In recent years, the validity of the vial has come under question, and investigations have shown that it was nothing more than a Byzantine perfume bottle from Constantinople. But to those who believe, no amount of science can deter them.

The lower chapel is a simple Romanesque church from the 12th century, the last Romanesque church in all of West Flanders. This chapel has been virtually unchanged since it was first built. The two chapels are connected, but a large brick staircase was built in 1533 in the Renaissance style, which was subsequently destroyed during the French WWII occupation but rebuilt in the 19th century.

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Vismarkt

Across the bridge from Burg Square is the Vismarkt, or old Fish Market. The fish market was once located in Markt Square, but the smell of the fish was so intense that people around the square complained, so it was moved further east. The covered stone arcade was built in 1821. The market is only open from Wednesday to Saturday in the early morning, but you can visit the iconic stone structure any time of the day.

Dijver Canal

From the Fish Market, walk west along the Dijver Canal. The canal’s passageway from the fish market to Nieuwstraat is a classical view of Bruges you must see for yourself. Various restaurants along the canal are reasonably touristy but provide one of Bruges’s most beautiful scenes. If you just want to hop into one of their patios for a drink, I think the overpriced beer is well worth the view.

De Garre

To end your first day in Bruges, head to De Garre bar, nestled in a tiny alleyway. De Garre is a hidden gem in Bruges renowned for its exceptional house beer, the Tripel van De Garre. This robust and flavorful tripel, brewed exclusively for the pub, is a must-try for any beer enthusiast. The cozy and intimate atmosphere of De Garre, combined with its rich wooden decor, offers a perfect setting to enjoy this unique brew. The pub also serves a variety of other Belgian beers, making it an ideal spot to unwind and savour the local beer culture after a day of exploring the city​.

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Day Two in Bruges

Groeninge Museum

To start our second day in Bruges, we will head to the famous Groeninge Museum. The Groeninge Museum is an essential stop on your tour of Bruges as it gives you an introduction to Brugian art across six centuries. 

The Primitive Flemish style of painting is featured throughout the walls of museums. Flemish art isn’t classically considered exceedingly masterful since it sometimes seems slightly grotesque, raw, and explicit. Flemish painters always tried to emulate their Italian counterparts to achieve a dynamic perspective, but they didn’t have the technical skills to realize these effects. The result is images that appear almost warped but whose expressions are so genuine they leave a lasting impression on the people who view them. 

Arents House Courtyard

Across from the Groeninge Museum, you’ll find the Arents House. Arents House was once an ancient manor belonging to the noble Arents family. It now hosts an extensive collection of paintings by the British artist Frank Brangwyn. While it might be worth a visit on a more extended tour to Bruges, today, we are merely exploring its courtyard. The small yard between the two medieval houses is the perfect place to stop and pause. Listen to the sounds of cobblestones underfoot.

The trickle of water flows down the canal. From Arents Court, you have one of the most splendid views of the Church of Our Lady’s tower. If you’re lucky, you’ll hear the church bell rings across the street and the soft crowing of birds perched above. Four exciting sculptures by artist Rik Poot surround the courtyard, representing the “Four Apocalyptic Knights,” which are a great compliment to the artistic surroundings.

Bonifacius Bridge

Before heading to the Church of Our Lady, you’ll pass across the Bonifacius Bridge. Despite only dating from 1910, it is one of the most beautiful bridges in Bruges. The tightly interlaced cobblestones are red brick archways that provide the perfect frame for the church towers behind them. Standing on the bridge, you can watch tourists paddle up and down the canal.

The Church of Our Lady of Bruges

All of the churches in Bruges are enormous. They seem to tower over the tiny houses below. The Church of Our Lady’s tower is over 122 meters high, the highest point in Bruges and the world’s second tallest brickwork tower. Because the church took over two centuries to build, it combines various evolutions of Gothic architecture with a Baroque interior.

While the interior might not be as grand as its exterior, it is still worth poking your head inside. The central organ is small but opulent, hiding behind the high altar screen. A few dozen simple chairs provide seating for the small but dedicated congregation. The altar screen is unique both in colouring and design. Its white and green coloured marble are highlighted with splashes of gold leafing. Along the nave are columns dotted with reliefs of various influential saints. A sizeable wooden pulpit stands at attention on the right side of the nave; dozens of beautifully carved cherubs hang off the sides, clinging to books with golden scriptures written for the people below to read.

Tombs of Bruges Royalty

Behind the high altar is the resting place of two of Bruges’ most famous residents. The golden tombs of Charles the Bold and the Duchess Mary of Burgundy lie in quiet repose beneath a beautiful tryptic. The elaborately designed tombs are worth looking at, so don’t miss touring the back half of the church.

The crown jewel of this church is the white marble sculpture of the Madonna and Child, created by Michelangelo in 1504. Over the years, the statue has been stolen by foreign invaders, but those dedicated to preserving its place in Bruges have always managed to bring it back home. Although this sculpture doesn’t have the same impact as his Pieta in Rome, the sadness on Madonna’s face reflects her knowledge that this little boy will grow up only to die for the sins of his people.

Gruuthuse Hof

Away from the Church of Our Lady is the Gruuthuse Hof, a small but historic house adorably sandwiched between two major streets. Now a restaurant, the Gruuthuse Hof is one of the oldest residences in Bruges. While in one of the prime locations for tourists, the restaurant keeps a simple, traditional menu catering to locals and tourists alike. With only 28 seats inside and 12 on the patio, the place remains intimate despite its popularity over the eras. If you can find a table, it’s worth stopping in for the featured meal of the day.

St. Salvator’s Cathedral

Up from the Gruuthuse Hof is St. Salvator’s Cathedral. It is the oldest parish church in Bruges, with parts dating back to the 10th century. But the original design was much less grandiose than the current incarnation. In 1834, after Belgium’s independence, St. Salvator’s was given the status of a cathedral, and the meagre church had to be extensively renovated to match its new high status as a cathedral. 

The architect of the new cathedral was William Chantrell, an English architect greatly influenced by the resurgence of Neo-Romanesque architecture. Neo-Romanesque buildings feature thick walls, round arches, sturdy pillars, barrel vaults, large towers, and decorative arcades. This church stands out because most of Bruges is so powerfully Gothic.

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St. Salvator’s Cathedral Interior

The neo-Gothic interior of the church is relatively plain but is accented with stunning embroidered tapestries from the 18th century. These antiquated works of art were made in Brussels by Jasper van der Borcht and feature astounding scenes from the Bible, all created with needles and thread.

To the left of the nave, the pulpit is a stunning example of Louis XVI’s designs. Louis XVI’s design was predominantly produced in France and exemplified the last phase of Rococo design. The style focused on natural forms and dramatic embellishments.

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Old St. John’s Hospital

Walking back down Mariastraat, we come upon Old St. John’s Hospital, now the Memling Museum. Before becoming a museum, it was used as a hospital for the sick and dying, administered by nuns and priests. Inside are many relics and six paintings by a 15th-century painter and Bruges resident, Hans Memling. One of the highlights inside is the Shrine to St. Ursula. Carved into a gilded wooden reliquary in the shape of the church are six panels which tell the story of St. Ursula’s sainthood, painted by Memling himself. The work was commissioned by the Hospital of St. John and is one of the most exquisite pieces of religious art I’ve seen close up. The three-dimensional details and rich colours are remarkable. 

De Vos Almshouse

Further south, away from the central part of the city, we will come across the “De Vos Almshouse.” This small grouping of little white houses, facing a lush green herb and flower garden, once housed the poor, widows and the elderly. The houses were purchased by a wealthy Brugian merchant who loved his city and wanted to give back to the less fortunate.

Each home was donated to a specific guild (mason’s guild, blacksmith, coopers, etc.) and would provide housing for members of that guild when they became too old to work, fell ill or lost their jobs. You might notice how none of the houses have windows facing the street – this was because, at the time of their construction, a tax was improvised for any street-facing window.

Beguinage

Before our final destination, stop into the Beguinage’ De Wijngaard’ or Vineyard. This grouping of white houses with terracotta roofs is one of Bruges’s most peaceful places to rest your weary feet. So far from the town centre, this site is little toured by day-tripping tourists.

Since 1245, the Bruges beguine sisterhood has lived here, and in 1937, it became a monastery for the Benedictine sisters. To enter the Beguinage, you first pass through a large arched entrance gate built in 1776. Inside, you find houses dating from the 15th to 19th centuries.

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The Minnewater

The Minnewater, or Lake of Love, is one of the most beloved retreats for the remaining residents of Bruges. Swans float up and down the picturesque canals, and lovers roam under the densely forested pathways, arm in arm.

Poertorenpark

Poertorenpark, or Gunpowder Tower Park, is a serene spot near the picturesque Lake of Love in Bruges. The park features a striking round tower, historically used to store gunpowder, which reminds of the city’s medieval past. Surrounded by lush greenery and peaceful walking paths, Poertorenpark offers a tranquil escape from the bustling city center. Visitors can enjoy a leisurely stroll, relax on the benches, and take in the scenic views of the tower and the surrounding landscape, making it an ideal location for a quiet afternoon​.

Huisbrouwerij De Halve Maan

To end your last day in Bruges, head to Huisbrouwerij De Halve Maan. This historic brewery is known for its rich brewing tradition, which dates back to 1856. This family-run brewery has produced some of Belgium’s most beloved beers for generations, including the renowned Brugse Zot and Straffe Hendrik. Visitors to De Halve Maan can enjoy guided tours that offer insights into the brewing process, the brewery’s history, and the unique beer pipeline that runs under the streets of Bruges, transporting beer from the brewery to the bottling plant outside the city.

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The tour concludes with a tasting session, allowing guests to savour the distinct flavours of De Halve Maan’s craft beers while enjoying panoramic views of Bruges from the brewery’s terrace. The best way to soak in the last scenic views of the city.

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Bruges is a stunning city with a unique history, culture, and beauty blend. With the help of this 2-day itinerary, you can make the most of your time in Bruges and experience all this charming city has to offer. From exploring the stunning architecture and picturesque canals to sampling delicious Belgian chocolates and local beers, there’s something for everyone in Bruges.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post How to Spend the Perfect 48 Hours in Bruges, Best 2-Day Itinerary [UPDATED 2024] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

You’ll visit not only her famous residence, Casa Azul, but also explore a multitude of other significant places. These spots were essential in the formation of her identity and connection to her Mexican heritage. If this is your first time visiting Mexico City, this tour is an excellent method of discovery. Many of her famous locations are located in the heart of neighbourhoods with a variety of other popular attractions.

Tour Itinerary

This tour is divided up into four different sections, each one focusing on a particular area of Mexico City. While it might not be the most chronological journey, it allows you to explore different neighbourhoods around Mexico city cohesively. While a chronological life tour would be better in terms of following her journey, it requires bouncing all over the city. Especially for those who are on a tight schedule, that’s not the best use of your time.

The three different neighbourhoods are the Coyoacán, Historic City Centre, and Xochimilco’t. You can easily add these spots to your existing itinerary. I would advise to only tackle one neighbourhood at a time. Don’t try to fit it all in one go. The last section is a list of museums. These museums will help you get a deeper understanding of Mexican culture, insights about Frida, and art in Mexico. Since these places were not locations Frida really visited they are not part of the essential tour. Although they do add a lot of contextual information if you’re interested in that kind of thing.

Below is a map of the entire walking tour. I have broken up the neighbourhoods into separate maps for easy-to-follow directions.

Frida Kahlo in Coyoacan

1. Tour Itinerary
2. Frida Kahlo Museum
3. Coyoacan Market
4. The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal
5. Cantina La Guadalupana
6. Parroquia San Juan Bautista
7. Frida Kahlo Park
8. La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura
9. Jardín Centenario
10. Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
11. Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera's House-Studio
12. Former College of San Ildefonso
13. Biblioteca Pública 
14. Secretaría De Educación Pública
15. Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
16. The Palacio Nacional
17. Avenue 5 de Mayo
18. Garibaldi Square
19. Palacio de Bellas Artes
20. Alameda Central
21. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
22. La Ciudadela
23. Xochimilco Canals
24. Museo Dolores Olmedo
25. Templo Mayor Museum
26. Museum of Modern Art
27. Museo Nacional de Antropología
28. Mexican Art Gallery | GAM
29. Museo Franz Mayer
30. Museo Anahuacalli

Frida Kahlo Museum

La Casa Azul or “the blue house“, located on Londres Street in Coyoacán once belonged to Frida’s father, Guillermo Kahlo. It was here where she was born. She grew up inside these walls. It was the place where she suffered from illness but also flourished as an artist. Eventually, Frida bought the house from her parents and lived with her husband, Diego. They got divorced and remarried all within these blue walls. And ultimately, it was the place where she would pass away. It was her sanctuary but also her cage. She spent more years inside these walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art. They collected pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more which is still on display. You feel a deep connection with Frida by literally walking in her footsteps. You get to see her inner sanctum and looking at the precious treasures she collected, which represented her passions, her wishes and her dreams. To learn more about the Casa Azul take my self guided tour!

Coyoacan Market

South of Frida’s house is the Coyoacán Market. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. Both Frida and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul. Frida loved to cook, and there are countless recipe books out there that details her favourite recipes. At one time, she was quoted as saying,

“We could not have a child, and I cried inconsolably, but I distracted myself by cooking, dusting the house, sometimes by painting…”

Frida’s Shopping List

Frida would come to these brightly coloured corners of the marketplace to shop for her favourite ingredients, chat with her local shopkeepers and wander around to get inspired for her next creation. This marketplace feels a little more laid back and less modern than some of the ones in the inner city. Exploring it feels like more of an authentic experience to the one Frida would have had herself. Make sure you ask about the mole paste they sell here. Mole was one of Frida’s favourite things to cook and eat, and there are countless varieties here you can buy and taste! See which one if your favourite and bring some of the powdered version home with you to make in your own kitchen!

The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal

The Casa de Cortes, on the north side, of the Plaza Hidalgo was where the seat of government was held for many years. And it was here that Frida and Diego were married. Frida’s parents were not a fan of Diego…to say the least. Diego had already been married twice, and his reputation as an unfaithful husband wasn’t a big secret around town. He was also 21 years older than 22-year-old Frida. Her parents protested and begged Diego not to marry her, but the love birds could not be swayed. Her parents referred to the union as a “marriage between an elephant and a dove” since Diego was over 300 pounds, and due to her illnesses, Frida was only a petite 98 pounds.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

The two were married on August 21st, 1929. Their marriage in city hall was presided by the mayor of Coyaocan, and their witnesses were a hairdresser and homeopathic doctor. Frida wore only a long skirt and simple blouse with a rebozo (shawl) wrapped around her shoulder. She would often wear these in the same way that female revolutionaries wore them during the 1910 revolution when women used the scarves to smuggle guns past government checkpoints. Diego was dressed in a plain grey suit, accessorized with a Stetson hat and a Colt revolver. After their short ceremony, they retreated to their good friend Tina Modotti’s house where the raucous reception was held.

It was recorded that after the wedding, during their reception, Diego took the colt revolver and shot it off aimlessly in a drunken stupor. Frida was none too pleased at this childish behaviour, and it would be the first signs of trouble in paradise for the couple.

Cantina La Guadalupana

Just down the street from the Casa Municipal, you’ll find Frida’s old watering hole, Cantina La Guadalupana. Although the original cantina is now closed, you can still see the old signage out front marking the spot. The building is much unchanged from the days when you’d catch a glimpse of Frida’s richly coloured skirts in the window. The Cantina La Guadalupana was the couple’s bar of choice for drinking tequila under the dim lights and surrounded by bullfighting decor. Frida was quite the prolific drinker for her small size and other than tequila, she would love to drink pulque. Pulque is made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant, native to Mexico. It was a beverage which the ancients Aztecs invented and drinking it made her feel closer to those old gods.

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Parroquia San Juan Bautista

Across the park, stands the imposing shadow of the baroque church that Frida Kahlo attended while she was growing up, Parroquia San Juan Bautista. It is also called the Iglesia de Coyoacán as the church has become the central place of worship in Coyoacán. It was built between 1520 and 1552 and run by an old Dominican order. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. But surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations.

The interior, however, is covered in baroque gilded decorations, and mindblowing ceiling frescos of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Frida would have come here as a child and prayed with her parents. You can only imagine how such a richly artistic place would have inspired young Frida’s mind.

Frida Kahlo Park

Seeing as the city is the place of her birth, it seems only right that Frida would have a park dedicated after her. Frida loved the outdoor, and although not everyone can afford to go into the Casa Azul’s garden daily, they can wake their way to Frida Kahlo Park to celebrate the great artistic legacy…or at the very least, walk their dog in a lovely setting. In the centre of the park, you’ll find two large, bronze sculptures of Frida and Diego. Frida is dressed in her classic Tehuana outfit, gazing over at Diego. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned into geometric shapes, slightly resembling Aztec pyramids popping out in the background.

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La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura

Located on the east end of Coyoacán, is La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura. Frida began teaching here in 1942. She hoped that its close proximity to her house would mean she could easily commute to and from and continue to educate Mexico City’s artistic youth. She loved her students and teaching, but her leg was bothering her more and more and eventually, she couldn’t leave the house. Luckily, the students loved her as well, and the dedicated pupils would come to the Casa Azul, where Frida could continue to instruct them. She would always inspire her students to look to Mexican culture for inspiration, instead of being influenced by European trends. While Frida might not have taught here for a long time, the school grounds are a beautiful and inspiring place to explore.

Jardín Centenario

The Jardin del Centenario is the central greenspace in Coyoacan. It is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. The gardens were once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

This beautiful garden is also where you’ll find a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below.

Frida in the Park

This delightful park is where a place Frida would frequently come to stroll or celebrate during her life in Coyoacan. It was here where the city would hold parades, festivals and fairs. Diego Rivera’s daughters have written extensively about their time living with Diego and Frida in Coyoacán. They lived with them inside the Casa Azul for two years while they completed college. The Jardín CentenarioIn is featured heavily in their accounts as Frida loved to come there to ride carnival rides and march in parades on any day of festivity and would always bring Diego’s daughters with her. Although Frida could never have children herself, she mothered so many young people along the way, acting as a parental figure any time she got the chance.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

The Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles is a cultural centre, free to enter and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. Just inside the entrance to the Casa is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. The house has existed here since 1780, occupied by a variety of different families. It’s no stretch to imagine that the previous owners would have welcomed the famous couple into their garden for a visit or a dinner party from time to time.

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio

Farther west, just outside of Coyoacán in the neighbouring district of San Angel is Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio. Frida and Diego had this building custom designed by their friend Juan O’Gorman. The studio was intended to be two separate buildings, connected by a bridge. A way of physically showing the differences between these two artists, who despite all odds, still manage to come together. Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. Frida’s studio, on the other hand, is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her home in Coyoacán. Diego’s house features thin windows along the top of the walls. Frida’s features almost floor to ceiling windows, giving the interior space that indoor/outdoor feeling. The house is separated from the street by a perimeter fence which instead of being made from wood or wrought-iron, is made from stacking rows of tall cacti along the roadside.

Studio-House

The couple lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they got divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul, leaving Diego to live full time, alone in the studio-house. Even after getting back together, only 9-months later, Frida and Diego kept the studio to use as more workspace. Today the interior of the studio features a lot of Diego Rivera’s work and decor, especially his collection of papier-mâché figures.

The Frida side of the house is pretty bare since most of her treasures moved over to the Casa Azul, but it is still interesting to view the architectural designs from inside. The best part of her studio to explore is her bathroom. It was in here that she was inspired to paint ‘What the Water Gave Me’ while staring down at her feet in the bathtub in one of her fits of depression. The very tub which is portrayed in the painting can be still seen today inside the studio. Frida also painted such iconic images as ‘The eye of the eye‘ and ‘The deceased Dimas’ while she lived at the studio-house.

Former College of San Ildefonso

We begin this part of the tour at the Former College of San Ildefonso. It seems very fitting to start the journey here since it was a place of so many firsts for Frida. This was where Frida first went to college in 1922. There she met some of her best friends, her first boyfriend and, most importantly, first met the love of her life; Diego Rivera. Frida’s father had the utmost confidence in his daughter.

Even after she had spent a good deal of her adolescence homeschooled, due to her polio, he still thought she was a genius. Her father decided to send her to this former Jesuit college, at much expense to the family. She was one of only 35 girls, out of 2000 students who went to the school. But she had always gotten along with boys almost more than she did with girls, so she flourished there. Frida would even be seen wearing men’s clothes to the college from time to time and embraced her more masculine side.

The Creation

At the same time, Frida was at school here, Diego Rivera has been commissioned to paint an enormous mural on the lecture room walls. The painting, called ‘The Creation‘ was Rivera’s first gigantic mural of this kind. It was commissioned by the Mexican government to educate the masses of people who couldn’t read but wanted to learn about history. The mural covers more than a thousand square feet and portrays mythological and religious motifs.

It was here when painting the mural that Frida first laid eyes on Diego. She would sneak in to watch him paint his nude models anytime she could. Diego, although married to Lupe Marin at the time, would frequently be found by Frida in the midst of making love to one of his models. She took it upon herself to even warn the artists if she saw his wife coming. Frida would mock and tease him as he worked, but he saw her as a charming little pest. She would go on and on about him to her friends, and despite their age difference, and would proclaim that one day, she would be his wife and have a child by him. Although the latter would never come to pass, who knew how right she would be about the rest.

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Biblioteca Pública 

Down the street from her college, we find the Biblioteca Pública where Frida would come to study. She would come here to meet up with her schoolmates the ‘Los Cachuchas‘. It was here they would discuss at length the politics of the day and plan their communist rallies. But the library was not just a place of learning for Frida. The library was also where she would spend hours falling in love with her first boyfriend, Alex Gómez Arias. In addition to Alex, she also met a gorgeous female librarian and had her first affair with a woman amongst these books. This relationship caused quite the scandal in the community but was her first foray into exploring her bisexuality.

Secretaría De Educación Pública

Just to the north of the school, is the spot of another one of Diego Rivera’s masterpieces. There are 235 panels in the Secretaría de Educación Pública featuring Diego’s favourite themes of blue-collar workers, and the glorification of all things Mexican. It was here while painting these murals in 1928 that Frida Kahlo would come to see Rivera once more. After her injury from the bus accident, she needed to find a way of making money for her family and art was always something which had interested her.

But Frida didn’t know if her artwork was skilled enough to become an accomplished artist. So she went to ask the one man she admired above all others and whom she knew would tell her the truth. She marched right up to him, her work under her arms, and asked him for an honest critique. He was flabbergasted at her brash attitude and charmed by her confidence. It looks him some time to recognize her as the little pest from years before, but it was here that perhaps Diego first fell in love with Frida.

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Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral

Frida’s mother was a fiercely religious woman. The Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral was right beside where Frida would walk to school every day and as such a part of her daily life. Even though many of Frida’s paintings contain a wide variety of indigenous imagery, she was raised in a Catholic household. Elements of religious iconography can be seen in her pictures, especially in her studies of ex-votos. This church is a beautiful place to explore and discover different references you might compare to some of Frida’s famous portraits. The church itself was built after the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire.

The Spaniards decided to build their first church on the site of the Templo Mayor of the Aztec in the city of Tenochtitlan. Stones from the destroyed temple of the Aztecs were used to create the church. And although we now look upon the destruction of that ancient temple as something to morn, it is incredible to stare up at this church and see stones stuck throughout from over 1000 years ago. The construction of the Cathedral began in 1573 and took until 1813 to complete! The enormous cathedral is over 350 feet long and 200 feet wide. This makes it Latin America’s largest and oldest temple.

The Palacio Nacional

The Palacio Nacional or National Palace is an enormous building which stretches out across the Zocalo. While some of the Palace is still used for governmental purposes, the rest of the building is open to the public and filled with incredible gardens, murals, fountains and works of art. But the most meaningful Frida related piece in the palace is the mural by Diego Rivera entitled, ‘The History of Mexico’.

The mural features the history of Mexico from pre-Columbian ancient times to the 1930s. Rivera painted the mural between 1929 and 1935. Key events in the mural feature stories like the Spanish conquest, the colonial period, the Independence movement, and the 1910 Revolution. The right side of the mural is a chronological study of the indigenous Aztecs before colonization.

The left side of the painting is less chronological, featuring smaller groups of stories about Mexico’s Independence. Along the bottom of the mural on the left is the portrait of Frida Kahlo, her iconic monobrow making her easily distinguishable from the others. She looks over a young boys shoulder at his book and is seen wearing a necklace with the communist star. In front of her, dressed in a red, is Cristina, Frida’s sister, holding open a copy of the Communist Manifesto. Years later, Diego would have an affair with Cristina, so seeing the two women here together, years before these dramatic events would unfold feels slightly foreboding.

Avenue 5 de Mayo

Walk along Avenue 5 de Mayo, towards our next destination. While the pedestrian street Avenue Francisco Madero is more popular, I always find it’d packed with tourists and people hawking flyers. In addition to this, the stores are all American brands which don’t feel as authentic to Mexico City. Walking along the street, you’ll see that many of these shops are incredibly old.

There are dozens of stores along the way that Frida herself might have popped her head in while she worked in the city. During her adolescence, she would come into the historic centre to work both in her father’s studio or at other artists’ workshops. Frida worked as an artist apprentice in the city, where she had her first affair with a married man. All of this before the age of 18. These streets filled her life with passion, and that can be seen in her escapades.

Garibaldi Square

Plaza Garibaldi is known as the home of mariachi music. Throughout the day, you’ll find mariachi bands playing all over the square. Frida herself loved coming here. She would bring her friends and family here anytime there was a celebration or holiday. She adored dancing to the music and often took part singing songs with the band members.

NOTE: Due to it’s proximity to the dangerous neighbourhood of Tepito, this area should be visited with caution, during the daylight hours. In recent years the city has taken many precautions to help with the safety concerns including increased police presence and the creation of the Bellas Artes-Garibaldi Tourism Corridor. This corridor has improved street lighting as well as the addition of beautiful gardens and sidewalks in the neighbouring streets to help improve the appearance of the area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Palacio de Bellas Artes

Palacio de Bellas Artes and its iconic rainbow stained glass roof are one of the most iconic images of Mexico City. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts events in music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and is therefore aptly named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico”. The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical, but inside you’ll discover a plethora of Art Deco and Art Nouveau stylings. On the 3rd floor is Diego Rivera’s famous ‘El hombre en el cruce de caminos‘ (Man at the Crossroads).

This mural was initially painted for New York City’s Rockefeller Center in 1933 but torn down by Rockefeller when Diego refused to paint out the image of Lenin he had sneakily included. Frida’s life in New York City, following Diego around from commission to commission, was such a significant point in her life. Gazing upon this mural, albeit the second version of it, is still such a powerful connection to the couple.

Frida’s Funeral

When Frida Kahlo died, Diego arranged for her body to be laid in state at the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The government agreed, only if they would make it an entirely non-political event. Diego agreed, but unbeknownst to him, one of her students came to pay their respects and after he did, threw a huge communist flag over her casket. The government threated to have her body removed, but Diego refused to let them. He said if they tried, he would carry her dead body in his arm and sit with her on the steps of the palace. Before she died, the last words she wrote in her diary read:

“I hope the exit is joyful – and I hope never to return”.

Alameda Central

One of Rivera’s most famous paintings is the fifty-foot fresco ‘Sunday walk through Alameda Park‘. The picture is currently in the Diego Rivera mural museum, but visiting Alameda Park is an excellent opportunity to take a walk inside of the painting itself. Alameda Park was Mexico City’s first city park and was built on the grounds of an ancient Aztec marketplace. Frida is painted into the mural, wearing the traditional Tehuana dress. She is holding in her left hand the Yin-Yang symbol, which represents duality. Perhaps this is the duality of life, or maybe Diego painted it as a reference to Frida’s dual personality.

Frida is resting her hand on young Diego’s should, like a mother protecting her young one. You can imagine how many times Diego and Frida would have come to this park together, to paint and to relax. Take some time to walk around and even buy some street food snacks to enjoy under the Jacaranda trees which bloom bright purple in the springtime.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

If you’ve visited the real Alameda Park, then it’s a treat to then see the mural of, ‘Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Central’. Look how closely Diego captured its likeness and the personalities of the people in the park. Despite being called a museum, the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is more of a housing spot for the mural, but the admission is just over a dollar. Originally the mural it was located at Hotel Del Prado. After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the hotel was condemned. Luckily, the mural was saved (in pieces) and moved the museum where it was reassembled.

La Ciudadela

Another iconic destination on the tour of Frida’s Mexico City is to the La Ciudadela marketplace. While this market only opened up in 1968, Frida would have frequented markets like this many times throughout her life in Mexico City. Places like this would have been where she came to purchase folk art, traditional textiles and elaborate, locally-made jewellery. So many of the old Tehuana patterns and dresses which Frida was known for can still be found in marketplaces like this.

Because this market is so large, you’ll have the largest selection and artisans comes from all over the country. Oaxaca is the best place to buy textiles from so if you see signage saying the products are from there you know they’ll be top-notch. If you’ve visited the Casa Azul already, you can even buy replicas of her favourite objects since many of those folk pieces are still made in the same way today. It’s like shopping in a Frida Kahlo-themed store!

Xochimilco Canals

Xochimilco is the Venice of Mexico. In the southern district of Mexico City, you’ll find is over 170 km of waterways which spread out in all different directions. Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico City, the indigenous people had created an incredible network of canals. They used these channels for transportation and to supply water throughout the country. Xochimilco means “Floating Gardens” as it refers to the Aztecs creation of the chinampas. Chinampas are artificial agricultural plots, rich in minerals, that are grown in shallow lake beds. In Xochimilco, they were used to produce thousands of flowers which looked like they were floating in the water. After the Spanish invasion, they dried up many of the canals in the centre of Mexico City to make room for modern roads. But the channels in Xochimilco remained.

Frida adored her Mexican heritage and the colourful culture which Mexico is all about. Today, Xochimilco is the best place to bask in that colour and energy. Along the canals, you can listen to mariachi bands, call over boats with mobile kitchens to serve up fresh tacos or delicious elote. Paddling along the stream are artisans selling flower crowns that resemble the flowers that Frida herself would wear in her hair. Even here, her iconic image is prevalent. To learn more about Xochimilco read my full guide here >> 

Museo Dolores Olmedo

While in Xochimilco, make sure you make a stop at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Museum. The museum is located inside the grounds of an old 16th-century residence. In 1962, Dolores Olmedo bought the house. Dolores was a fierce collector of art as well as a lover of Mexican culture. It is no surprise to learn then that she old became the largest collector of private works of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. In 1994, her collection was transformed into the museum we now find today. Luckily, Dolores lived until 2002, so she was able to see this fantastic house converted into an art gallery for the public.

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Today you can explore gardens filled with exotic Mexican plants, magical peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles. Xoloitzcuintles are a dog breed which was once only thought it exists in mythical stories of the afterlife but is actually an ancient Aztec dog. Frida herself loved these dogs and owned multiple throughout her lifetime. Inside the museum, you can find such famous Frida Kahlo’s as ‘The Broken Column’, ‘Henry Ford Hospital’, ‘Self-portrait with Changuito’, ‘A few Piquetitos‘ and ‘Mi nana Nand Me‘. If there is a particular painting, you wish to see be SURE to check online as so often her pictures are out on loan, being shown around the world.

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Templo Mayor Museum

Mexican culture and history were so essential to Frida’s life. Although Templo Mayor wasn’t discovered until after her death in 1978, Frida would have loved to have seen this relic from the past unveiled. Today, you can visit the museum and see what archaeologists discovered; the remains of the Aztec temple which the Spanish destroyed on their conquest into Mexico. The 10-foot carving of the Mexican goddess Coyolxauhqui and the over 7,000 Mexica artefacts is an entire half days worth of discovery!

Museum of Modern Art

The Museum of Modern Art in Mexico City has a stunning collection of 20th-century Mexican art. The most important being Frida Kahlo’s “The Two Fridas“. This painting is one of the most essential pieces in her oeuvre. It was painted after she divorced Diego and depicts what she saw as her two different personalities. The one on the left is dressed in traditional Tehuana costume, with a broken heart, her blood spilling out on the white of her dress. This Frida’s makeup is done, her lips painted deep red and rouge on her cheeks.

The Frida on the right is dressed in a more modern outfit. She is the independent Frida, whose heart is not broken and who can take on the world without Diego. But the two exist together, shattered and complete, heartbroken and confident. I love this painting as I feel it is so poignant to all of our lives and how we can be all things at once. Strong and weak, shy and loud, brave and scared. You don’t need to commit to one thing alone, we are complex beings, and this painting is a beautiful interpretation of that.

NOTE: Before visiting, be sure to check the website to see if the painting is on loan to another museum. Since this is the only piece of Kahlo’s inside the museum if you’re going expecting to see that and it’s on loan I know how disappointing that might be. So checking in advance is super important!

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Museo Nacional de Antropología

Throughout her life, Frida would often refer to “being the daughter and Mexico“. Her mother was unable to breastfeed young Frida, and so she was breastfed by her indigenous wetnurse. This is an image Frida has painted in a myriad of artworks. Frida always thought that by feeding on the milk of her country, she absorbed the cultural roots of her heritage from the minute she was born. Visiting the National Anthropology Museum is a window into the pre-colonial history of Mexico and those roots Frida so often referred to. The museum is also filled with many indigenous artworks as well as some of Frida and Diego’s student’s artwork they helped inspire.

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Mexican Art Gallery | GAM

Inés Amor founded the original Mexican Art Gallery in Mexico’s City in 1935. This was where Frida’s first art show in Mexico would take place. She exhibited her artworks during the inaugural International Surrealist Exhibition in 1940 with her painting ‘Las Fridas‘ (The Two Fridas, which is now at the Modern Art Gallery of Mexico). Even though there are no longer any of her pictures hanging on the walls, this is still an extraordinary place to visit. The gallery was the first to recognize the talents of Frida Kahlo professionally, and they are doing the same thing with current, contemporary Mexican artists today.

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Museo Franz Mayer

The Franz Mayer Museum is one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in Mexico City. It also houses a wonderful personal art collection from collector Franz Mayer. Here you can find over six centuries of objects he took great care in collecting throughout his lifetime. These collections feature ceramics, furniture, silver, sculpture, paintings and engravings.

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But there is also a room, called the Marguerite Rostan gallery, which highlights traditional Mexican textiles and costumes. The collection contains clothing from 14 different ethnicities such as Amusgos, Triquis, Chinantecos, Mazatecos, Nahuas from various places across Mexico. This acquisition represents and embodies an important contribution to the knowledge of traditional Mexican costumes. Many of these dresses are so similar to the ones Frida wore throughout her life. If you’re interested in learning more about traditional Mexican fashion, this is a great place to visit.

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Museo Anahuacalli

On your way to Xochimilco, you should stop by the Museo Anahuacalli. Your ticket into the Casa Azul actually also covers your entry into this museum as well, so you kinda get a two for one! The Museo Anahuacalli was another one of Diego Rivera’s homes. Diego and Frida were both fierce nationalists who loved their home country and wanted to preserve its history. Diego and Frida dreamed of opening their own museum dedicated to these objects. Sadly, in their lifetime, this dream never came to fruition. But after Diego’s death, his daughter took up the project and created what is now the Museo Anahuacalli. Architect, Juan O’Gorman who designed their studio, also designed this house as well.

The exterior of the house was made using black volcanic stone, taken from an old volcano in Mexico and the texture is something truly unique. There are over 50,000 pre-Hispanic pieces inside the museum. Some of these Diego would collect while he and Frida would travel to ancient Aztec pyramids outside of Mexico City. Each one of them was a piece of Mexico’s heritage, a heritage that inspired the work of Frida Kahlo and I know she would be proud to have helped in the creation of this museum which stands today.

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If you’ve made it all the way through this post, I commend you! There is so much in Mexico City to see in the footsteps of Frida Kahlo. You can easily adapt this tour to your personal interests or locations you’re already planning on visiting. Frida is one of the most exciting artists I’ve ever studied, and I loved writing and researching this tour, so I hope you have as much fun following it as I did in creating it!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Following the Colorful Life of Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Exploring a city at the crack of dawn, before a sole other than myself hits the streets, is one of my favourite things to do. What can I say? I’m an introvert. But once I finally decided to see Prague for myself, I found sneaky little ways of avoiding the hordes of tourists. I found that most of the group tours just stuck to certain areas and it was easy to find peaceful promenades just a block over. I also just accepted that they, just like myself, were here to savour this awe-inspiring city. (Except for those who come here solely for the cheap beer and sloppy parties, they’re a breed all on their own.)

Instead of avoiding the town altogether, it was merely a matter of heading off the tourist track and discovering a hidden Prague for myself, and I wanted to share one of my favourite off-typical tourist track guides with you!

The Lesser Quarter

One of my most cherished neighbourhoods in Prague was Malá Strana, which translates into “the Lesser Quarter.” Malá Strana is divided between the lower and upper halves of the western hillside, opposite the Vltava River. The upper half consists mainly of Prague Castle, where most tourists flock (with good reason), but the rest of the Lesser Town has a more subdued vibe. With fewer big-ticket attractions, you’ll find slightly fewer tourists along these streets. But you’ll still discover streets lined with historic Burgher houses, astonishing churches and adorable cafes and restaurants.

Table Of Contents

1. The Lesser Quarter
2. How Long does this Walking Tour Take?
3. When to go?
4. Access
5. History
6. Starting Point: Legions Bridge
7. Kampa Island
8. The Devils Inlet
9. Liechtenstein Palace
10. Love Lock Bridge
11. The Lennon Wall
12. Květinářství U Červeného Lva
13. Lesser Town Bridge Tower
    • Judith's Tower
    • Higher Tower
14. Míšeňská
15. Café Club Míšeňská
16. Shakespeare a synové
17. Narrowest Street in Prague
18. Vojan Park 
19. St. Joseph Church
20. St. Thomas Church
21. Velikovský house
22. Malostranské náměstí
23. The Lower Square
24. The Upper Square
25. St. Nicholas Church
    • Interior of the Church
    • Mozart in Prague
26. Fragnerova Pharmacy
27. Nerudova Street
28. Gingerbread Museum
29. Prague Chocolate Bistro
30. Jan Neruda Dedication
31. AMI Marionettes
32. Baráčnická rychta
33. Prague Castle View
34. Happy Travels Adventurers!

How Long does this Walking Tour Take?

If you choose to go inside the various buildings we pass along the way and stop for a coffee or a meal, I would save half a day for the tour to take it at a comfortable pace. This tour pairs perfectly with the Prague Castle Tour since both can be found in the western half of Prague.

When to go?

Since we are trying to stay off the extremely busy pathways, you can take this tour any time. If you’re looking for it to be very empty, try to go early in the morning and or late in the afternoon or evening. Nothing compares to the sunrise and sunset across the Vltava river.

Access

Our tour begins on Legions Bridge. To reach this bridge by public transport, you can take trams; 2, 3, 13, 14, 17 or 18 to the Národní Divadlo stop. No matter where you’re coming from in the city, this place is relatively easy to reach on the tram since there are so many stops nearby. Everything in Prague is also very walkable, and from the Old Town, the bridge is only 15 minutes away.

History

Malá Strana, or “Lesser Quarter,” was established by King Ottokar II of Bohemia in 1257. He divided the city into two halves, separated by the river and the Charles Bridge. The right side of town was the centre of the bourgeois, native Czech population. The left bank, however, was made up of many more German and Italian citizens, along with the most opulent noble palaces.

The king brought German craftsmen to help establish his city as having some of the finest craftsmen in Europe. In 1541 the town suffered massive damages due to fires set by invading armies. When it was rebuilt, Baroque architecture was the dominant style, and to this day, we can still explore the pastel-coloured burgher houses and ornate facades that Prague’s baroque movement was so iconic for. As you walk through the town, down quaint side streets and ancient alleyways, you feel you’ve been transported through time.

Starting Point: Legions Bridge

While most tours of the Malá Strana might start you off entering via the grand gates on the Charles Bridge, I would advise taking the back entrance into town instead. Legions Bridge allows you access to Lesser Town without fighting through a crush of people. The views from the Legions Bridge across to the Charles Bridge and Prague Castle are also incredible! If you’re ever interested in taking a paddle boat out on the river you can watch other happy paddlers out on the waterways enjoying the views and a bit of sunshine.

Kampa Island

Across the bridge, just to the left, as you arrive, you’ll find Kampa Island. This little island is a peaceful, green retreat where you’ll find lots of local Czech families enjoying some time outdoors. This island was originally man-made, constructed in the 12th century, and once used mainly as a place where women could wash and bleach linen by the river. Today, the island is also home to the Kampa Modern Art Museum, littered with modernist sculptures. Some of the most intriguing is the giant bronze babies who crawl along the grounds of the island, somewhat creepy but definitely interesting.

The Devils Inlet

To the island’s west is a small stream from the river Vltava. This charming waterway has a rather nefarious name. They call it ‘Čertovka,’ which in English means “the Devil’s Inlet.” The name is supposedly derived from a nearby house called ‘U semi čertů‘ or “at the Seven Devils.” Along the Čertovka you’ll find remnants of old medieval mills which used the canal as their primary form of power in the 12th century. The Grand Priory Mill or ‘Velkopřevorský Mlýn‘ is the most famous and iconic of these. Today, the mill has been renovated into an upscale (rather meh) restaurant but still has the original waterwheel outside on display. I’ve marked it on the map so you can look closer as you pass it.

IF Café

Just across from the Čertovka, you’ll find IF Café. This cafe is the perfect place to grab a bit of breakfast or just a cup of coffee. If you haven’t had the chance to fuel up for the rest of the tour, this is a great opportunity. This restaurant serves fantastic coffee and is always surprisingly quiet for being close to a tourist mecca. Whether you’re here for breakfast or lunch, this place has dishes which will make you drool! And the best part is the pastries! They look like works of art or blooming flowers sitting quietly inside their glass case ready to be devoured.

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Liechtenstein Palace

Just on the other side of the road from the cafe is Liechtenstein Palace. This cream-coloured, old Palace, built in the 16th century, was Prague’s most extensive baroque construction. And while the exterior might look sweet and simple, this place is known as home to one of the cruellest and most ruthless men in Prague’s history, the “Bloody vice-regent” Lichtenstein. He is known as the “bloody regent” due to his murderous rule, where he ordered the deaths of 27 leaders of the Hussite rebellions in 1621. The leaders were beheaded in Old Town square despite dozens of relatives who begged the Regent to spare their lives. Today, 27 cast-iron heads are mounted as pseudo gargoyles along the front of the Palace to commemorate the event.

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Love Lock Bridge

Continue walking along Hroznová street until you reach the Grand Priory Mill, as mentioned above. A small bridge juts out over the Čertovka, where you can look across the stream to the adorable houses facing the waterway. The wrought iron fencing that protects visitors from falling into the river has become a strange tourist attraction. A popular trend across Europe popped up in the mid-2000s where lovers would swear their eternal fidelity to each other by leaving a padlock with their initials on the bridge and throwing the key in the water below. 

While this might seem romantic, sealing your love into your favourite location on your travels, the reality is much different. These locks have severely damaged many historic bridges since they were never built to support such weight. Cities have now begun to cut them down to save the integrity of the bridges. So while you might think this is a cute idea, think twice before leaving your love lock here. You might find it to be cut down the next day…which is a must less romantic metaphor.

The Lennon Wall

Across the bridge and along Velkopřevorské náměstí you’ll find the famous Lennon Wall. The Lennon Wall is a favourite spot for tourists and locals alike. Since the 1980s, people have been visiting this wall and covering it with graffiti relating to John Lennon and the Beatles. It represents all of John Lennon’s ideals: peace, love and equality. The origins of the first piece of graffiti are unknown, but it seemed to have caught on like wildfire.

In addition to Lennon-inspired graffiti, in 1988, the wall became a place where young Czechs could air their grievances about the communist regime. Whenever local authorities would paint over the graffiti, the next day, it would be covered up once more in poems and paintings. Eventually, they just stopped trying and accepted it as modern art so long as they didn’t deface any other surrounding buildings. If you have a pen, or even some paint, feel free to leave your mark here along with the others!

Květinářství U Červeného Lva

Keep walking north along Lázeňská and turn right along Saská lane. The houses and building along this short route are some of the most beautiful examples of everyday baroque architecture. These aren’t palaces or noble estates, just mundane buildings built within the Baroque era. These lanes are almost empty, even though you’ll be able to hear the hustle and bustle of tourists just up ahead. Hidden down here, just steps from the famous Charles Bridge, is one of the oldest and most beautiful flower shops, Květinářství U Červeného Lva. Flowers are literally pouring out the door! Even if you can’t buy flowers for yourself, just looking at this shop in this quiet lane feels like discovering a secret garden!

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Lesser Town Bridge Tower

Keep walking along Saská lane until you reach a set of stairs on your left, leading you up to the end of the Charles Bridge, where you’ll find the Lesser Town Bridge Towers. This lofty structure with the wide arched gateway is flanked on either side by two enormous towers of differing heights. The non-uniformity of these towers always bothered me (I’m someone who likes symmetry), but I’ve found the oddity quite charming over time.

Judith’s Tower

The lower tower is called Judith’s Tower. It was built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century and once connected the old bridge from Mala Strana to Old Town before the Charles Bridge was built. In 1591 the bridge tower was renovated in the new Renaissance style and decorated with ornate gables, and the trendiest art form of the time: sgraffito. Sgraffito is a form of decoration made by scratching through a surface to reveal a lower layer of a contrasting colour, typically done in plaster or stucco.

Higher Tower

The second tower is aptly named the Higher Tower. It was built in the high Gothic style as a pair to the Charles Bridge’s Tower of Parler, located on the other side. At the peak of the arched gateway, you’ll see various symbols of Prague. There are the emblems with the imperial eagle, the Czech lion and the symbol of Upper Lusatia; below them are the emblems of the Old Town and the Lesser Town.

Míšeňská

Instead of heading straight through the main gates where the influx of crowds can be found, we’re going to enter around the northern side. While this gateway is lovely, the immediate area opposite the gate is packed with tourists and best avoided. Just north of the gates, walk up Dražického nám and turn right along Míšeňská Street. Míšeňská Street is one of the best-preserved Baroque streets in Prague.

Because it doesn’t boast huge attractions, you’ll still find it a quiet little place to explore. Before there were street numbers in Prague, houses were distinguished by a crest above the doorway. These could be family crests or correspond to the kind of businesses which operated inside. Stop by Míšeňská #3, which was once the ‘Queen of the Bees’ house marked by a flag of honeycomb and bees. Míšeňská #10 is marked with an old fresco of a lamb, and opposite this, #7 is marked with a wrought iron rooster.

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Café Club Míšeňská

Café Club Míšeňská is another famous espresso bar which boasts some of the best coffee in the city inside an old 18-century house. If you didn’t grab something to drink or a snack beforehand, this is another delightful spot to sit and enjoy a bit of quiet. The decor inside is a blend of restrained modernism and antique nostalgia.

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Shakespeare a synové

As you exit Míšeňská Street and hit U Lužického semináře, you’ll find the tiny little shop with the name ‘Shakespeare a synové’ above the entrance. This is one of the city’s most intriguing bookshops, which carries both new and used Czech, English, French & other foreign language books. There are some real rarities here, and while the books might be a bit pricey, it’s still worth poking your head inside to explore. The tiny shop is spread over two floors and has various couches and chairs for people to sit and peruse any books of interest before buying. It’s a great spot to warm up or cool down if you need a short rest from the walk.

Narrowest Street in Prague

Keep walking north along U Lužického semináře until you reach the Restaurant Čertovka. Just beside this restaurant is one of the strangest and most hidden spots in Mala Strana. Here you can find the narrowest street in Prague! From U Lužického semináře, this extremely narrow lane leads back to a restaurant garden. The path is so skinny that a traffic light had to be installed to ensure no two people went at the same time from either direction, in case they got stuck! You can easily walk down it yourself even if you’re not visiting the restaurant, just ensure you click the walk button and obey the signs.

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Vojan Park 

Across the street from the restaurant, along the west side of U Lužického semináře, you’ll find a long white wall which hides a valuable secret. After walking north along the wall for about a block and a half, you’ll come to a small archway which provides an entrance inside. The exterior wall is bland and usually covered in unappealing tags and graffiti. But as you make your way to the gate, you’ll be in awe of the greenery to be found inside. 

Vojan Park, the oldest park in Prague, was initially built-in 1300. In the 17th century, the Convent of Barefooted Carmelites was constructed beside the park, and their order took it upon themselves to care for the gardens and enhance their beauty. Especially in the summer when the cherry blossoms bloom, this park is absolutely magical. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the various peacocks which roam the grounds as they are a sight to behold!

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St. Joseph Church

Exit the park where you entered and continue along U Lužického semináře. Walk until you reach Letenská street, where you’ll turn left and walk along the road westwards until you reach St. Joseph Church. While the buildings along this stretch aren’t of particular note, you have a great opportunity to get some fantastic snaps of the old Prague trams that run up and down this street. St. Joseph Church is a narrow, little building piled up with some of the most exquisite Baroque ornamentations. While the interior is a bit lacklustre, the exterior is a real feast for the eyes.

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St. Thomas Church

Across the street from St. Joseph Church in St. Thomas Church. This church is the opposite of the one previous. The exterior is a bit of a jumble of everyday styles. But inside, you’ll be awed at fantastical ceiling frescos, elaborately carved wooden chapels and stunning multilayered altarpieces. The church was originally founded by the order of Augustinian Hermits by Wenceslas II in 1285. The church was decorated in high Gothic style by some of the most prominent Czech artists of the time and today is still one of the best examples of Czech art and architecture.

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Velikovský house

Down the street from St. Thomas Church is the Velikovský house, found at Malá Strana No. 518. The famous townhouse has stood on this spot for over 600 years in one form or another. It was rebuilt and renovated due to fires and changing architectural styles. Study the corner turret, decorated with sgraffito from sculptor Celestyn Kloucek which dates back to 1899. On the southern facade, facing the Malostranské náměstí is an old sundial from 1608. It was discovered hidden under a new layer of plaster during one of the renovations. Historians carefully uncovered it; today, it is a stunning example of how Czechs used to tell time. They used a unique method that counted the hours that had passed since sunset instead of the 24-hour clock we have today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Malostranské náměstí

Now, after a roundabout route, we find ourselves in the main square of Prague’s Malá Strana. St. Nicholas Church stands domineering over the square and separates it into two distinct spaces; the upper (western) and lower (eastern) squares. While the jolly food vendors and antique trams with charming church bells ringing in the distance might seem like an idyllic scene, this square hides a darker history. It was once the spot where the gallows and pillory were located throughout many different eras of Prague’s judicial history. Townspeople would gather here to view public executions and cruel medieval punishments. The only sign of such dark histories is the rather tacky “torture museum” signage plastered all over the ancient facades.

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The Lower Square

The lower square is where you’ll find the tram stop for Mala Strana, surrounded by pretty palace façades. This was originally where the nobility of Prague’s elite would live, close to the Palace without being inside its gates. Many of these buildings are now tourist trap restaurants, but luckily the high prices have meant they can maintain the original architecture and appearance of these historic estates.

The Upper Square

The upper part of the square is called ‘Vlašský place‘ as ‘Vlacks’ or Italians once lived solely in this area and would come into the square daily to sell their products and goods. In the upper square, we also find the soaring Plague Column commemorating the Czech people’s survival after the great plague of 1713. The column features sculptures of the Virgin Mary surrounded by Czech saints designed by sculptors Jan Oldřich Mayer and F. Geiger.

St. Nicholas Church

St. Nicholas Church stands high above Mala Strana with its three masterful copper-topped roofs. It is known across Europe as an absolute architectural marvel and one of the most exceptional examples of Prague Baroque. Where St. Vitus is an example of the most beautiful Gothic architecture, St. Nicholas provides a glimpse into opulence, which is genuine baroque.

It was built in 1704 by the father-son duo Christoph and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer. Saint Nicholas is known as the protector of children and the patron saint of sailors. Legend says he saved three girls from being forced into sex work by dropping sacks of gold coins into their window to pay for their dowry. Other stories tell of his power to calm the oceans and save lost soldiers at sea. Many of these stories are told throughout the paintings and sculptures inside, so it’s always good to know a little bit of context for the saint the church is named after.

Interior of the Church

Stepping inside the church, you’re immediately struck by the lavish decor and open space. The dome stretches 70 meters above the church, creating a grandiose light lantern that rushes inside. There are lush decorations everywhere your head turns. Pastel frescoes cover what appears to be every inch of the walls and ceilings. The most impressive of these paintings is the one on the dome depicting the Holy Trinity by Franz Palko. But there is a real balance between heavy ornamentation and light, creating a heavenly harmony. The massive dome is encircled with windows, as are either side naves. This allows natural light to pour into the centre of the church ensuring you never feel claustrophobic or weighed down.

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Mozart in Prague

One of the most impressive features of the church is the grand organ which was once played by none other than Mozart himself in 1787. The organ contains over 4,000 pipes and is an absolute marvel to hear. Be sure to check when the church holds concerts, as hearing the organ played in person is truly something otherworldly.

To get one of the most amazing views across the city, climb the 215 steps up the centre tower. You can see the Vltava River and the surrounding countryside past the city limits. During the communist era, this viewpoint was more than just a pretty sight. Spies frequently visited this spot to look down on the nearby American embassy. On your way up the tower, keep an eye out for the small cast iron urinals along the wall. These were installed to allow the spies to relieve themselves without a long journey to the ground floor.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Fragnerova Pharmacy

Just outside St. Nicholas church on the corner of Zámecká and Nerudova street, you’ll find one of the oldest pharmacies in Prague. The Fragner Pharmacy at the Black Eagle is easily identified by the giant black eagle on the front of the shop.

While the pharmacy now sells modern-day medicine, it also has various historical items on display inside the 18th-century interior. It’s a great way to explore what old pharmacies used to be like while also picking up any medicine you might need for yourself (for me, I always need some blister band-aids for my feet after long days of walking the entire city).

Nerudova Street

Turn down Nerudova Street which is itself a tour through the eras. Nerudova is named after the writer and poet Jan Neruda. Neruda spent his life writing stories all about the “Lesser Town” and the various real-life character turned fictional in his charming short stories. While most of the historic storefronts have turned into touristy restaurants or souvenir shops, looking closely above the entrances, you can still study the historical remnants of this incredible street. Above #12, now a Chinese restaurant, you’ll see an emblem of three fiddles marking what used to be an old violin makers shop. A few doors down at #16, we see an old apothecary shop marked with a golden chalice.

Gingerbread Museum

Along Nerudova, stop in at the Gingerbread Museum. While more of a shop than a museum, it does sell superbly decorated gingerbread. There are always some gorgeous treats to behold, both for display and purchase. A monthly window display usually features gingerbread versions of the city’s iconic architecture. It’s an amusing little shop which just makes me smile, so I had to include it. And fair enough, I do love myself some gingerbread!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Prague Chocolate Bistro

If you like a quick snack, head into the Prague Chocolate Bistro. Despite sounding like a tacky tourist trap, this little modernist cafe is known for serving up some of the most delicious chocolate treats. Their rich and slightly savoury hot chocolate is the perfect thing to not only fill you up with its rich flavour but also to keep you warm on a cold or rainy day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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As you continue walking along with Nerudova, stop by #26 to see if you can spot the golden sparrow house or the golden wagon wheel at #26. Across the street at #27 is the golden key house. The street can get really crowded, but I found that the denser areas usually comprise just one large group. Just wait for them to go by, and the street will open back in a few minutes.

Jan Neruda Dedication

Above the house, at #45, you’ll see a beautiful bronze plaque on the facade of the building with the image of Jan Neruda carved into the bronze. It documents the author’s life and the street dedicated to him.

AMI Marionettes

As Nerudova turns into Úvoz street, stop in at AMI Marionettes. Marionettes are a very popular souvenir to be found in Prague. For many years, puppetry was considered a low form of entertainment compared to theatre or opera. They were operated by less skilled artisans. Often instead of being performed in German (which in the 17th century was the official language in Prague), they used the native Czech language. While this might seem no big deal, speaking, Czech had been outlawed! Puppetry became somewhat of a nationalist pastime, sometimes only performed in secret. In the 18th and 19th centuries, as the Czech Republic began to rebel against using the German language, the marionette became a symbol of this rebellion.

AMI Marionettes is still one of the most trustworthy names in puppetry, and all their puppets are locally produced. You’ll see marionettes all over town in cheap souvenir shops, but these are often Chinese knockoffs. Even if you’re not interested in buying one for yourself, the craftsmanship used to make these marionettes is really impressive.

Baráčnická rychta

As we are nearing the end of the tour, if you’re feeling a bit peckish, head into Baráčnická rychta. This cozy little restaurant can be found just off the famous Nerudova street. It’s incredible how you can still find a real authentic place with great prices and delicious food just steps away from tourist traps and overpriced cafes. There is even a little outdoor garden to eat in on lovely summer days, but you can dine inside their traditional Czech interior throughout the year.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Prague Castle View

To make your way to one of the most incredible views of the city without the tourist hordes, head west across Vlašská until you reach the corner of Vyhlídka Václava Havla park. Meander down the garden pathway (as marked on the map below) towards the easternmost part. Not only do you have a view across the Vltava river, but you can also see the rooftops of Prague Castle off in the distance. Few other tourists were there when we visited, along with some locals walking their dogs. It was the perfect ending to a fantastic afternoon stroll.

Many people come to the Lesser Quarter solely to visit Prague Castle and miss out on the subtleties of Mala Strana. There are so many treasures to uncover! If you’re heading to Prague soon, let me know if you have any questions. And if you’ve travelled to Mala Strana before, let me know what your favourite sight was in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Free Self-Guided Walking Tour of Malá Strana, Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Guide to Gion Kyoto

1. History
2. Access
3. When To Go?
4. Map of Walking Tour
5. Maruyama Park
6. Yasaka Shrine
7. Shijo-Dori
8. Hanamikoji South
   • About Geishas
   • Red Lanterns
9. Ichiriki-tei
10. Geikos and Maikos
    • Geikos
11. Patisserie Gion Sakai
12. Hanamikoji North
13. Maiko Lessons
14. Gion Tatsumi Bridge
15. Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine
16. Shirakawa Canal
17. Kyōto Minami-za Theatre
18. Temple of Chugen-ji
19. Kamo River Bridge
20. Pontocho Alley
21. Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi
22. Kiyamachi Dori

History

Kyoto was the Imperial capital of Japan from 794 -1869. As a great metropolis, it required the best entertainment for its dignitaries and foreign guests. Unlike many movie portrayals or common myths, Geishas or ‘Geikos‘ are not escorts or prostitutes. They are professional entertainers. Geikos and Maikos are the words for Geishas and Geishas-in-training in Kyoto. Geiko literally translates into “a woman of art.” Geikos are trained in all the different art forms of traditional Japanese art. They will be proficient in playing music, painting, flower arranging, singing and dancing.

Access

Gion is located along the Kamo River and can be easily reached by public transit. The closest train station is the Gion Shijo Station on the Keihan Line and Kawaramachi Station on the Hankyu Line. You can also reach the area by bus #100 or #206 and get off at the Gion bus stop. Public transit costs only 230 yen ($2 US). If you choose to take a taxi, you can ask for it to drop you at the first location, Maruyama Park. However, taxis are pretty pricey (at least $15 US and up depending on your departure location), so I’d advise public transit.

When To Go?

This tour aims to take you around the historic area of Gion while stopping in at the Gion Theatre to see a show in the middle of the tour. This part is totally optional, and you can easily just continue on from there without attending. But I think seeing a performance at the theatre is a great introduction to the art of being a Geisha and gives you an idea of what’s going on behind those closed tea house doors. The performances are at 6:00 pm and 7:00 pm, and I would aim to get a ticket for the 7:00 pm show to give yourself enough time to explore the north-western parts of Gion.

The best time to start this tour is around 5:30 pm, just before dusk. Most of the earlier parts of the journey are best seen when it’s light out, but Gion takes on a different shape when night falls. The red lamps are lit, reflecting off the water like stars in the sky. Any sign of modernity seems to dissipate, and you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Just before dusk, the Geishas will exit their apartments and head to the tea houses for their nightly routines. If you want to see one, this is your best opportunity! Use this map at the bottom of this post to help navigate your way around Gion, but since it’s a small area, don’t worry about getting lost!

Map of Walking Tour

Maruyama Park

Start your walking tour of Gion inside Maruyama Park. If you’re lucky enough to visit Maruyama Park during cherry blossom season, you’re in for a real treat. This park is the best place for cherry blossom viewing in Kyoto. The most impressive sight here is the ‘shidarezakura,’ a weeping cherry tree which lights up at night. It’s truly an ethereal sight! The garden feels like a treasure even during the rest of the year. It is even designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty.’

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Yasaka Shrine

From the park, walk through the winding pathways to Yasaka Shrine, which sits just at the end of Shijō Street. Yasaka is the spiritual centre of Gion and the reason everything around it exists. In the middle ages, hundreds and thousands of people came through this area to make a pilgrimage to the shrine. The neighbourhood was built around it to feed and house all the travellers passing through.

A shrine has stood on this site since 656, but the Yasaka Shrine was founded in 1350. It was built to honour Susanoo-no-Mikoto, a Japanese god who defeated an eight-headed serpent and saved the citizens of Kyoto from many disasters. This temple comes alive in a different way during the evening or at dusk. The hundreds of lanterns hanging outside the temple, each one donated from a local business with their name inscribed upon it, are lit up when the sun goes down. It is a remarkable site to see against the backdrop of the bright, vermilion-painted torii gates.

Shijo-Dori

After touring the temple, head down to Shijo-Dori, Shijo Dori (dori means street) is the best place to shop in Gion. Here you can find traditional sweet shops, pickles and handicrafts all along this green-roofed and lantern-covered street. This is the most modern area of Gion, with offices and some big-name brands, but any roads that branch off from Shijo will take you right back in time.

Hanamikoji South

A few steps down the street along Shijo-Dori, turn right onto Hanamikoji. Hanamikoji is the real heart of Gion. It is where you’ll find the best-preserved aspects of the city’s architecture and culture. Along this street, it feels as though time has stopped. Hanami-koji means “blossom viewing lane” since during the cherry blossom season, this street explodes with blooms and feels like they encompass the entirety of the skyline.

Along this street, you’ll find some of the oldest establishments in Kyoto called ‘ochayas,’ or teahouses and ‘Machiya’ or ‘townhouses.’ The buildings are all designed similarly, reflecting aspects of traditional Kyoto architecture. They are mostly made of wood, with no windows on the streets to protect the identity of their customers. Each has a wooden lattice facade that runs halfway up the house’s exterior and is topped with baked tile roofs. Most of the houses are unpainted, although the ones which cater to Geishas are given a coat of red or scarlet paint to distinguish them from the rest in a subtle way. Elegantly dressed bouncers wait in from of open doorways, secretly ushering in the elite customers and elegant Geishas away from the rabble on the street.

About Geishas

There aren’t many options for those wondering how you can experience an evening with a Geisha for yourself. Most Geishas are extremely expensive, even if you can get the contacts to book a dinner with them. They don’t just have a phone line or website where you can make a reservation. You need to know someone who can give you a reference to get you in. Some tourist services offer evening dinners with “geishas,” but often, these aren’t real. More often than not, it’s just a woman in a costume pretending to be a geisha.

Remember, if it’s the real thing, it will cost a pretty penny, so if you feel like it’s too good to be true – it is. If you manage to get the right introductions to make a reservation, an evening’s entertainment will start at $700 US, and that’s not even including dinner or drinks.

Red Lanterns

The red lanterns that hang outside humble townhouses are used to indicate these are ‘ochayas.’ Guests will enjoy an evening of entertainment and fine dining hosted by the Geishas and their house mother. They will sing and dance for their guests while food is served. Geishas are also incredible musicians and will often treat their guests to songs played on the Shamisen (a smaller and thinner kind of guitar), the Koto (the national instrument of Japan played like a horizontal guitar), the Shakuhachi (a bamboo flute) and the Tsuzumi (a small tribal drum). Geishas delight in playing traditional Japanese drinking games with the most excellent sake with the businessmen.

Ichiriki-tei

A few steps down the Hanamikoji is Ichiriki-tei or Ichiriki Tea House. This is the most famous tea house in a 300-year-old red-painted house. Ichiriki-tei’s reservations are by invitation only, and the people coming in and out of its doors are sure to be of great importance. It has been the scene of many samurai plots over the years and where prominent governmental figures met and discussed the future of their great city. Although you might not be able to get inside, seeing this iconic building, even from the outside, is truly special.

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Geikos and Maikos

Hanamikoji is the best place to spot a Geisha, so keep your eye peeled. Geisha are more appropriately called Geikos and Maikos. You’ll also see dozens of tourists dressed in fancy kimonos and some fake Geishas posing for pictures. If you’re trying to spot a real Geisha, there are ways to identify them. Maikos (Geishas in training) will have decorations like flowers in their hair, while a Geiko (a fully trained Geisha) will not. Also, the Maikos obis (the belt they wear around their kimono) will stretch almost to the ground.

In contrast, the Geikos obi is neatly folded around her back. The ultimate way to tell the difference is through the shoes. Geikos have flat shoes called ‘zoris’ while the Maikos wear the iconic mile-high platforms called ‘okobos.’

The Geikos have a much more subdued appearance than their trainee counterparts because these women have already made it and don’t need to show off. To become a real Geiko or Geisha, you must go through years of rigorous training. Most girls start training at the age of 15. Then they attend Geisha schools where they learn all the skills required to entertain their guests. Since they are not making any money, their home mother pays for their schooling, training and clothing. The house mother is also called the ‘okasan.’

Geikos

After they become full-fledged Geikos, they must pay off their debts to the house mother, who will get them jobs and find them clients. Many girls dream of becoming Geikos despite it being a rather ancient occupation. Geikos are now becoming famous on the internet, and young girls dream of becoming instant-famous. Just like girls in North America look up to celebrities, girls in Japan look up to these elegant professional party girls. If you see a Maiko or Geiko in the streets, be respectful. They don’t mind if you take a picture, but they won’t stop to chat. If they’re on the street, they are on their way to work and don’t have time to dillydally. Let them go their way, and just allow yourself to observe their majestic presence.

Patisserie Gion Sakai

Past Ichiriki-tei, stop in at Patisserie Gion Sakai. Gion is famous for its sweets. Nothing was better for a Geisha to bring a samurai than a sweet treat. Patisserie Gion Sakai is found inside a traditional wooden-style townhouse. While there are various other things to try, I’d go right for the fluffy cake rolls filled with sweet cream. Some of their more traditional flavours include plum, blood orange and matcha.

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Hanamikoji North

After the show, head north along Hanamikoji; many of the houses along the Hanamikoji north of Shijo-dori are old merchant houses. These charmingly preserved townhouses represent the architectural style of ancient Imperial Kyoto. They have been here for centuries and once would have served the ancient samurais. These days not all the shops on the street cater to knights of the empire. You can find some well-priced restaurants along one of Kyoto’s famous laneways.

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Maiko Lessons

Along Hanamikoji north, see if you can spot one of the Maiko Lesson Boards. These boards aren’t identified with large signage, so they’re a little hard to spot, but they can be found if you know what you’re looking for. Look for a large green board with a chart covered in vertical, white Kanji letters. This is their agenda for the day, saying which classes they need to attend with what teachers are around town. Maikos will stop here throughout the day to see where to head to class since their classes can be found all across Gion in unassuming townhouses instead of one schoolroom. The entire life of Geisha is one of secrecy and illusion, and even their classes reflect this.

Gion Tatsumi Bridge

At the end of Hanamikoji, you’ll come to the Gion Tatsumi Bridge. This bridge is one of the most iconic places for a picture across the Shirakawa Canal. On either side of the canal, you’ll find willow trees whose leaves hang over the water and onto the street, creating a soft, green canopy. Truly one of the most spectacular places in Kyoto. During the day, this bridge can be overrun, but at night you are likely to find it all to yourself.

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Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine

On the other side of the bridge, you’ll find the Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine. This tiny neighbourhood shrine, almost completely obscured in darkness at night, is frequented by many local Geishas. Besides the shine is a stone inscribed with a poem by the famous poet Isamu Yoshii. It was made to honour the artist since he greatly loved Gion. The poem reads:

No matter what is said
it is Gion I love.
Even when I sleep
beneath my pillow
the water flows…

Shirakawa Canal

Walking along the Shirakawa Canal is a great place to wander, away from the hustle and bustle of the main street. Some of the city’s most exclusive eating establishments are located along this canal. If any celebrities are visiting the city, you’ll surely spot them here. While the canal is gorgeous to view during the day, there is something extraordinary about seeing it at night, when the trees are alight, and the sparkling stars reflect across the water. Only your footsteps on the stone sidewalk echo across the street.

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Kyōto Minami-za Theatre

Head back down towards Shijo-Dori now that night has fallen. Turning back onto the part of this street that we haven’t yet explored, check out the Minamiza Kabuki Theater. At night this theatre is a beacon of light in the darkness. The Minamiza is the best kabuki theatre in Kyoto. It was founded in 1610, but the one you see standing here today is a reconstruction from 1929. Kyoto is the birthplace of kabuki, and there is no better place in the world to see kabuki as a first-timer or experienced veteran. Kabuki is much like European opera but with a Japanese twist that includes more drama, colours and spectacle!

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Temple of Chugen-ji

Near the Kabuki theatre, down the cobblestone streets next to the Kamo River, we find the tiny Temple of Chugen-ji. You’ll discover ‘Jizo,’ a Buddhist guardian saint, inside this temple. But this Jizo enshrined here is extra special. During the great floods of 1228, the people of Gion prayed to Jizo to save their town from the rising waters. People claimed they saw Jizo physically saving people from the flood and saw him stop the rain. This temple is dedicated to the god who saved the town; perhaps without his intervention, it wouldn’t be here today.

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Kamo River Bridge

Head across the Kamo River Bridge and take a moment to look across the water. The Kamo River has served over the years as a place of great importance for the people of Kyoto. The river was diverted in the 8th century to ensure the new course past the town’s new capital Heian Capital (now called Kyoto). The river was not only a place for the locals to get their drinking water. Still, it was where many of the local fabric makers would come to dye their beautiful fabrics. Pottery makers would begin to get supplies for their work, two iconic symbols of Kyoto craftsmanship.

Pontocho Alley

Across the bridge, you’ll come to Pontocho Alley. This narrow alleyway, marked with a simple wooden sign, runs parallel to the Kamo river. The fancy restaurants overlook the river bank on the right, and the less pricey, more authentic restaurants are off to the left. Although this street feels a bit dingy during the day, at night, it comes alive with paper lanterns, neon signage, and music pouring out of the nearby clubs. There are a few elite theatres around here where Maikos and Geikos perform, so if you didn’t spot one on the other side of the river, this might be your chance to see one here.

Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat, head to Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi, where they serve traditional yakitori. They have a great selection of different kinds of yakitori (food on skewers cooked over a charcoal grill) for reasonable prices. Plus, you have a great view of the cooks at work which is like having dinner and a show!

Kiyamachi Dori

Making your way down the southern part of Gion, take a walk down Kiyamachi Dori. Kiyamachi Dori is another historic street in Gion. The road is located along the embankment of the Takase River, which was actually a man-made canal made in 1586 when a wealthy merchant decided to dig it out. He wanted to create a new waterway to bring in stone and other materials from Fushimi into Kyoto. Although the canal was taken out of service in 1920, it still makes for a scenic walkway; at night, a vast stretch of the street is dazzlingly illuminated. This is the perfect and most peaceful place to end your tour in this historical area of Kyoto.

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With this guide, you can head out and explore Gion on your own, at your own pace and venture off from the large tour groups, which can make what should be a quiet, relaxing stroll into a fierce and crowded experience. Plus, you can follow your instincts when you go on your own; if something looks interesting, go off the path and check it out! You might be surprised by what you find around the next corner.

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Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. Tickets
3. A Brief History of the Hungarian Parliament
4. Parliament by the Numbers
5. Where to Get the Best View
6. Architectural Design
7. Interior Tour
8. Hungarian Crown Jewels

Access

You can take the subway to Kossuth Tér station on the M2 metro line to reach the Parliament Building. If you prefer to travel on the tram, you can also take Line 2 to Kossuth Lajos Square Station. The buildings are open from 8 am to 6 pm from April to October and 8 am to 4 pm from November to March. There are certain times when Parliament is meeting, and entry is unavailable during those days. Check the website before you arrive to see if there are any blackout dates during your visit. 

Tickets

Since the parliament buildings are one of the most popular attractions in Budapest, it is highly advisable to buy your tickets in advance. Tickets can be purchased online; trust me, you’ll be happy you don’t have to waste your time waiting on your vacation by doing it this way. Adult tickets for non-EU citizens cost 10,000 Ff ($27 US) and European Citizens can buy a discounted ticket for 5,000 Ft ($14 USD.)

A Brief History of the Hungarian Parliament

The Parliament building was built in 1896. It was made after the unification of the three cities which would eventually make up modern-day Budapest. A nationwide design competition was held to find a concept widely loved. Not just by the government but by the public as well. It was important to the committee that the building was designed from the start by a Hungarian. A native who could embed their nation’s values, history, art and cultures into one building. In the end, Hungarian architect Imre Steindl’s Gothic Revival design won the competition and construction on the new Parliament could finally begin.

Interestingly, second and third-place designs were honoured by being built, just not as Parliament. They were actualized, albeit on a smaller scale, across from the Parliament Building and served as the headquarters for the Ministry of Agriculture and the Museum of Ethnography. All three buildings in these small areas are a real treat, and you can decide for yourself if the committee made the right choice.

Parliament by the Numbers

The Hungarian Parliament Building is the world’s third-largest parliament building, measuring 258 meters long and 123 meters wide. Its interior includes 691 rooms, 200 offices, ten courtyards, 27 gates, 29 sets of staircases and 13 passengers and two freight elevators. The building is 96 meters tall, and after its construction, a law was written that no other building in the city is allowed to be taller than the Parliament building. This ensures that the spires of Parliament can be seen from all across the city.

Where to Get the Best View

The best place to see the Parliament building for the first time is from across the Danube river. Standing in a place like Batthyány Square, you can easily see the entirety of the building. From afar, you can better appreciate the harmony and power such a domineering structure can evoke. From the other side of the Danube, you’ll be able to study the symmetrical nature of the construction. Either side of the upper and lower houses are perfect copies of each other. This reflects the equality between the two houses of Parliament. In the centre is a large, commanding, Neo-Renaissance dome, signifying the unity created when combining both sides of the legislature.

Architectural Design

Over 100,000 people were employed to construct the Parliament Buildings. No expense was spared in the production. One of the most essential things to designer Imre Steindl was to ensure the construction used elements of the Carpathian Basin in its structure. There were over 40 million bricks made from Hungarian materials. Half a million precious stones were harvested from around the country to be used in the decorations. 40 kilograms of gold were added throughout to give the building a sense of opulence and grandiosity. Steindl used local artisans to create the thousands of sculptures, frescos and ironwork that make this building so absolutely covered from floor to ceiling in art.

Gothic Revival

The design of the building is anchored in the Gothic Revival movement, which takes elements from classical Gothic designs but blends in details of the Renaissance and the Baroque. The gothic Revival is an architectural movement that began in the late 1740s in England. The style features characteristics including; decorative patterns, finials, scalloping, lancet windows and hood mouldings. While the facade and ornamentation may be neo-gothic, the floor plan is distinctly baroque, and the embellishments on the ceilings inside are stylistic elements drawn from the Renaissance. It’s fantastic to see a building not stuck inside just one style. It breaks free from linear standards and feels like a love story to architecture itself.

Because of modern-day pollution, the porous limestone walls cover to surround the facade of the building regularly require cleaning. Don’t be surprised if you see scaffolding around Parliament when you visit.

Exterior Statues

To the east, even from across the river, you can see a large group of statues which make up the Kossuth Memorial. Created in 1956, the dramatic sculpture surrounds a large column where Lajos Kossuth stands. Lajos Kossuth was a freedom fighter and influenced the creation of democracy in Europe.

Count István Tisza

On the north side of the building, you’ll find the statue of Count István Tisza. István Tisza was a Hungarian politician, prime minister, political scientist, international lawyer, macroeconomist, and member of the Hungarian Academy of Sciences. He really did it all! Tisza was one of the most influential politicians who supported Austria-Hungary’s dual monarchy but was eventually assassinated during the Aster Revolution.

Attila Józsefa

Along the edge of the river, sitting frozen in place, is a statue of Attila József. His poem By the Danube is reflected here in his pose: 

As I sat on the bottom step of the wharf,
A melon-rind flowed by with the current;
Wrapped in my fate, I hardly heard the chatter
Of the surface, while the deep was silent.
As if my own heart had opened its gate:
The Danube was turbulent, wise and great.

On the grassy knoll outside the front of Parliament is the triumphant equestrian statue of Francis II Rákóczi. Rákóczi was a nobleman and leader of the Hungarian uprising against the Habsburgs in 1703. He is considered even to this day as one of the greatest Hungarian national heroes.

In Memoriam

I think one of the most moving statues on the grounds is ‘In Memoriam 1956.’ This large piece of black iron might look like nothing from afar, but when you get close, you can make out bullet holes embedded in the sculpture. This is to memorialize the Hungarian Revolution of 1956. This was a nationwide revolution against the Hungarian People’s Republic and its Soviet-imposed policies. The battle lasted 18 days, and over 2,500 Hungarians and 700 Soviet troops were killed in the conflict.

The 6.5 m tall statue of Count Gyula Andrássy riding his proud horse stands on the south side of the building. Gyula Andrássy was Hungary’s prime minister between 1867-71, and he still stands guard outside Parliament today.

Interior Tour

Because both sides of the Parliament Halls are identical, one is used for the politician’s daily work and the other for guided tours. This allows you to explore everything the insiders see daily without worrying about interfering with the employees’ day-to-day activities.

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The Golden Staircase

When you first go up the stairs upon entry, look up. You’ll see that the entire ceiling is coated in nothing but gold. Hence the name, The Golden Staircase. It looks like the inside of a jewellery box. From the golden staircase, you’re led down a narrower hallway. The right side of which is adorned with brilliantly coloured stained glass.

The small hallways will suddenly open up, and you’ll find yourself standing in The Grand Stairway. Along the sides of the staircase are huge Corinthian columns, each carved in exotic burgundy granite. They are capped with intricate gilded embellishments and spread out into fantastically painted arches covered in gold. There’s a lot of gold in here, that’s for sure. There is something about seeing all this grandeur in a place of government; it really does give you the sense that these people were very passionate about politics.

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Károly Lotz

Take a 360-degree spin around, and be sure to take a look up at the fresco on the ceiling. These incredible frescos were painted by Károly Lotz, a famous German-Hungarian painter. These three depictions are allegorical and symbolic of the government’s actions and effects on the country.

The stained glass throughout the building creates little vignettes of magic when the light pours through. Created by artist Miksa Róth, the windows represent family crests of iconic Hungarian royal families. Others designs are merely decorative, using traditional Hungarian patterns. But most impressive are the glassworks that look like embroidered drapery yet forged in the glass.

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The Dome Hall

The next stop on your tour is Dome Hall. Entering the hall makes you feel as though you are entering a Cathedral. The soaring dome and adornments throughout are as glorious as it comes. There are 16 points in this room, each of whose corners reach up to the top of the dome, creating an immense sensation of openness and grandiosity.

See if you can count all 242 sculptures surrounding the dome’s corners. Each portrays a different Hungarian ruler, Transylvanian leader or famous historic military officer, carefully placed on gold pedestals. Despite their small stature, their faces are impeccably carved, and their expressions are life-like.

Hungarian Crown Jewels

One of the most precious treasures of the Parliament building is the Hungarian Crown jewels. You can see on display the Holy Crown, the orb and sceptre, and a Renaissance royal sword. The crown jewels have had a rough history as they have been lost, stolen and looted several times. After WWII, they were given over to the American army to keep them safe from the Soviet Union. They remained in Fort Knox, Kentucky, for years, and it was only in 1978 that President Jimmy Carter had them returned to the Hungarian people.

The Hungarian crown comprises two pieces of jewellery, each from an illustrious era of history. The lower portion is the original Byzantine crown, and the upper cross-shaped topper is from another crown from the medieval period. The crown was initially designed for St. Stephen for his royal coronations over 1000 years ago.

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Upper House Lobby

Before entering the Upper House, you’ll be ushered into the Upper House Lobby, a long corridor with massive pillars on either side, where people gather before or after critical political meetings. The enormous turquoise carpet is one of the most exciting things in the Upper House Lobby! This carpet is hand-knotted, which would have taken artisans thousands of hours to complete all by hand. The pillars in the lobby, almost salmon pink in colour, are surrounded by statues representing Hungarian crafts and culture, which seems appropriate since the art and design that makes this building so unique is mostly due to these craftsmen and women.

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Another ubiquitous piece of history is the brass cigar holders that line the window sills. Since smoking was banned inside the Chamber when smoking, politicians had to go back inside to vote on a particular bill or amendment. They didn’t want to snuff out their expensive cigars and instead would leave them in these fireproof holders so they could return to smoking after voting.

The Old Upper House

The Old Upper House is a replica of the assembly hall where the congress meets weekly, and some of the nation’s most significant decisions are made. This hall is used more for conferences and meetings than political state business. The House itself is enormous. 452 wooden seats, made from decorated Slavonian oak, are set in a semi-circle around the speaker’s chair. The seats are covered in lush red velvet, making each member feel important. Behind the speaker’s chair are magnificent paintings of Hungary’s royal families over the years.

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Library of Parliament

The last thing you’ll visit on your tour is the library of Parliament. Although politicians have a private library which they use, this library is open to the public and still contains over 500,000 books and volumes. Books as old as 1580 are stored here on the shelves that reach the ceiling. Sitting inside the library, you have a stunning view across the Danube, and it’s the perfect peaceful place to end the tour.

What are your Parliament Buildings like back in your home country? Are they magnificent as this one? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers

The post The Best Visitor’s Guide to Budapest’s Stunning Hungarian Parliament Building first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

There are pluses and minuses to both scenarios. While seeing the bright and colourful streets empty is a pleasure to just have it to yourself, when it’s busy you can admire all the local kawaii kids even chance at seeing a few Lolitas meandering around. Exploring Harajuku is more than just walking down the famed Takeshita Dori Street. There are so many side alleys and hidden shops you need to explore to get a real sense of what Harajuku is all about and not just the touristy side of things. I’ve tried to make this list an easy to follow walking path from the station so you don’t have to backtrack too much! The map to all the locations listed here is at the bottom of this post!

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
3. Map of Harajuku
4. Takeshita Street
5. Paris Kids
6. Purikura NOA
7. Daiso
8. Etude House
9. Totti Candy Factory
10. Panama Boy
11. Marion Crepes
12. Zaku Zaku Harajuku
13. CANDY A･GO･GO!
14. Closet Child & Bodyline
15. Chapter World
16. WEGO
17. Santa Monica Crepes
18. Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku
19. Starbucks Rooftop Patio
20. Chicago Omotesando
21. Alice On Wednesday
22. Cat Street
23. RAGTAG
24. Harajuku Gyozaro
25. Kiddy Land
26. 6% DokiDoki
27. Rainbow Pancake
28. Eddy's Ice Cream
29. Santa Monica Vintage
30. The Airstream Garden
31. Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum

Access

Harajuku is an easy destination to arrive at. The Harajuku Station on the JR East Yamanote Line lets you off right across from Takeshita Dori. You can also get off at the Meiji-jingumae ‘Harajuku’ Station served by the Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line. You can even take the Tokyo Metro on the Fukutoshin Line to get here, so no matter where you are coming from, it’s only a train ride away.

Outside the train station on busy days you can see hundreds of teenagers hanging out, listening to cute boys singing K-Pop songs and selling their CDs. Girls giggle and blush as the singers point at them as they sing the next romantic ballad.

History

Harajuku initially became the hot spot for Japanese fashion back in the 1970’s. A large fashion house called “Palais France” was built on Meiji Street near the exit of Takeshita Street and sold fashion-forward clothes, accessories and more. With this one large store drawing people down to this area more popular fashion chains started opened up. Then small independent retailers popped up to take advantage of the fashionable crowds.

Harajuku isn’t just one street. It’s the name of a general area spreading from Harajuku Station to Omotesando. In this area, you’ll find dozens of tiny alleyways and side streets where you can discover the newest in alternative, youth fashion. Although Harajuku has become more of a tourist attraction and has lost some of its original uniqueness, there are still lots of interesting stores if you get away from the main drag. Streets like Cat Alley are where you can still find independent retailers selling the hottest Japanese fashions and lifestyle accessories. In addition to clothes and accessories, you can also find Japanese souvenirs at pretty good prices, so it’s a good place to pick up some presents for back home while you’re here.

Modern Day Harajuku

Although the masses of people seem overwhelming, these Sunday crowds have been happening since 1977, when they closed down the street to traffic and turned it into a pedestrian only walkway. On Sundays you’d see local bands gather to play and fashionable Lolitas, punks and creatives modelling their incredible wearable creations. Now a days, more and more people are moving away from the streets and over to the nearby Yoyogi park to gather on Sundays, but you can still see your fair share of uniquely dressed individuals any day of the week, shopping for the perfect accessory to complete their outfit.

In addition to the clothes along the street, there are two other big draws. One is the incredible architecture and design seen on the outsides of these buildings and in their store windows. The other is the inventive food being served up from tiny little nooks and crannies under brightly coloured awnings.

Map of Harajuku

Takeshita Street

Takeshita Street is the main street you’ll enter through. It is a busy pedestrian shopping lane. No cars are allowed after a certain time in the morning and by 11 am you’ll see why. The entire street at busy hours can be completely filled with people, crowds so thick you’ll barely be able to make out the road below. The entrance to the street is always decorated with a different design made out of balloons. Along this street are many of the most popular shops in Harajuku. While some are worth skipping, others are historic establishments which helped put this street on the map.

Paris Kids

Paris Kids was probably my favourite store. Inside are thousands of accessories in amazing kawaii (cute) Japanese designs. Doughnut shaped earrings and cute kitten headbands were plastered all over the walls. Everything was really cheap, most things going at a rate of 3 for $10, 5 for $15, etc., etc. Since it was almost Halloween when we visited most of the specialty items were Halloween themed and seemed the perfect place to visit if you needed a quick Halloween costume or just some random accessories to get you in the spirit.

Purikura NOA

Purikura are the Japanese version of photobooths. Except, like with everything in Japan, it is taken to the next level. Down the stairs, just off Takeshita Street, you’ll find the greatest selection of purikura photobooths. Purikura is where you can get those classic Japanese printed photos where you can add text, stickers and give your face the “anime” treatment. The Purikura experience costs 500 yen ($5 US). Once you finish your photoshoot, you’ll get to decorate, alter, add filters and text to all the photos you took. This location in Harajuku definitely has the best selection in terms of decorations you can add to the photos. They even have a dressing and makeup area where you can make sure you look picture perfect.

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Daiso

One of my favourite shops in Harajuku was their Daiso location. Daiso has now also found its way into the US, but we still don’t have it in Canada. Inside this massive four-story building is one of the largest 100 Yen shops in Tokyo. You’ll find anything from clothes to kitchenware, food and best of all – stationary. Unlike dollar stores in North America, everything is actually 100 yen ($1), and you’ll find some absolute bargains for items you’d never believe are only $1. This is a GREAT place to grab some souvenirs. You’ll find so many awesome gifts for only $1 which you’ll also see in touristy locations but for at least three times the price.

Etude House

Etude House, a Korean makeup company, have installed a dollhouse inspired storefront right here in the centre of Harajuku. Korean makeup is known the world over as one of the best, and even local Japanese girls will travel down here to get their hands on some of these goods. The packaging design on their products is phenomenal and a gift in itself. Makeup makes for such a unique souvenir and something people will really enjoy using.

Totti Candy Factory

If you’ve ever spent some time cruising the #Harajuku hashtag you’re bound to have seen dozens of pictures of cute girls smiling with GIANT cones of rainbow cotton candy. These amazing candy creations are found at Totti Candy Factory. While there is often a line-up, it moves quickly and while waiting in line you can observe the candy creators inside molding these amazing sweet treats. They are gorgeous to look at and even better to eat!

Panama Boy

Located just off the Takeshita Street, you’ll step away from the main crush of people and suddenly just one street over you’ll find yourself in a much more peaceful side alley. Down the alley you’ll find Panama Boy. It easy to spot since there are piles of clothing simply pouring off the side of this building. Panama Boy is a vintage and thrift store with a collection of custom made as well. They have perfectly curated sections and nothing feels used at all, it’s so lovingly cared for and feels like a bespoke custom brand. This shop does a great job in finding bright and colourful pieces and doesn’t just focus on brand names.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Marion Crepes

Crepes have had a surge in popularity in Japan. It might seem like a recent phenomenon since the creation of Instagram and “food selfies”, but crepes have been a Japanese fascination for over 40 years. Marion Crepes has stood in the same spot since 1976. They brought pancakes to Japan, but instead of the traditional savoury crepes you found in Europe, they added brightly coloured fruits and ice cream to their desserts. Now, you’ll pass many different crepe shops, each with dozens of flavours showcased by intricately designed plastic models. You don’t even need a knife and fork; they come folded into a cone for a portable sweet treat to enjoy while pursuing the local shops.

Zaku Zaku Harajuku

One of the most popular food trends to hit the streets of Harajuku in the last few years has been Zaku Zaku and their famous croquant chou (crispy cream puffs). These delicate pastries are covered in toffee crunch and then filled with fresh cream from Hokkaido. Hokkaido cream is world famous and is what a lot of ice cream here in Japan is made of. This treat is wonderfully decadent but if you have room for it you must give it a try!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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CANDY A･GO･GO!

This candy shop is not only a feast for your mouth but also for your eyes! I came in here solely to look at the awesome designs and decorations covering the walls but left with a bag full of candies which were almost too pretty to eat…almost.

Closet Child & Bodyline

Although Lolitas were once always seen walking the streets of Harajuku, their popularities has shrunk over the years. They do like the attention, but it became too overwhelming, and often it’s almost impossible for a Lolita to walk down the streets of Harajuku without being hounded for hundreds of selfies. But, there are still many Lolita fashion shops in Harajuku selling darling, victorian and gothic inspired dresses.

Closet Child and Bodyline are two popular shops located right beside each other along Takeshita Street. Closet Child has amazing prices for Lolita style clothing which usually is pretty expensive. Even if you’re not a Lolita yourself, visiting these stores is a lot of fun. This type of clothing is so fantastical and a joy to behold. Bodyline features a lot of wigs and costumes for anime cosplay. If you’ve ever wanted an anime costume for Halloween this is the place to pick it up!

Chapter World

Along Takeshita Street, you’ll see dozens of shops selling shoes. But a lot of these are cheap knock-offs and won’t last you long enough to make the purchase worth it. There are however a few shops which are worth your time and feature some truly incredible designs. Chapter World is reliably the best place to find kicks in the city. They’re a chain outlet but the store with the best selection is here in Harajuku. If you can’t afford a new pair or don’t have room in your suitcase, you should definitely check out their selection of rainbow laces to jazz up even the most casual pair of shoes.

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WEGO

My FAVOURITE store in Harajuku is WEGO! There are various WEGO’s in Harajuku but I like this one the best since it has a great selection and is further away from the main entrance to Harajuku. Because it’s a little more hidden, this means the shop is often less crowded and therefore more relaxed. WEGO is a trendy fashion brand which blends Japanese pop and American vintage influences into their designs. Their prices are super cheap and if you buy more than $75 US you can use your passport to get a tax free exemption. I honestly had to stop myself from buying up the entire store but came home with a few choices pieces. Every time I put them on I get to remember this fantastic trip and all these memories from Japan.

Santa Monica Crepes

Santa Monica Crepes has some of the best signage and I loved visiting their shop. But since I enjoy Marion Crepes more I always opt for Santa Monica’s decadent bubble tea parfaits. These sweet drinks are topped off with whipped cream, fresh fruit, ice cream and even sometimes a bit of cake. They’re as beautiful as the plastic models and taste even better.

Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku

As you walk towards the intersection between Omotesando and Harajuku you’ll find it’s hard to miss Tokyu Plaza. This incredible building houses all the high-end fashion brands like Tommy Hilfiger, Gucci and Chanel. As you approach your eye will be immediately caught by the dazzling kaleidoscope of mirrors that serves as the entrance to the mall. They call this the stargate. And with good reason. The building was designed by Hiroshi Nakamura. He wanted it to reflect, “the time and the season, for an ever-changing view,”. Standing outside or in, you can see all around the crossing. The people, the landscape and the colours that change within it.

Starbucks Rooftop Patio

In the Tokyu Plaza, take the elevator straight to the top and head to the rooftop Starbucks. I know, I know, I should be telling you to try more international places than just Starbucks, but trust me, we’re not here for the coffee. Opposite the Starbucks on the top floor is a pair of double doors that lead you out onto this enormous outdoor patio. There are hundreds of seats, both at tables and along these beautiful wooden benches and staggered stairs steps which serve as more places to sit. From here you have an amazing view across Harajuku and the stunning garden spread across the rooftop. You absolutely do not have to buy a coffee to stay up here. I even decided to run to the conbini before I arrived and had my own little picnic up here on the cheap while enjoying this priceless view!

Chicago Omotesando

Chicago is one of my favourite vintage outlets in the city. They have a seemingly unending assortment of vintage finds and their selection of designer goods is truly impeccable. But my favourite part of their shop are the vintage silk kimonos. I found such beautiful designs, every single one of which I put on made me feel like Japanese royalty. Kimonos are such a traditional piece of Japanese history and one which I always recommend people pick up as a souvenir. But getting a vintage one feel that much more special, like you’re buying a piece of history.

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Alice On Wednesday

Down the street a little bit is a tiny doorway which leads you into a fairytale world. Alice On Wednesday is one of a few different Alice in Wonderland themed stores and restaurants in Tokyo. Inside this shop you’ll uncover three floors, each one designed to reflect aspects of the famed story. You’ll come upon the White Room where Alice drinks the shrinking potion, the Queen of Hearts’ room and the Mad Hatter’s room. The shop sells various accessories in the ‘wonderland‘ style as well as bottled beverages with “drink me” labels. It’s a great place to go if you’re a big Alice fan!

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Cat Street

On the East side of Harajuku, you’ll find the famed ‘Cat Street‘. This pedestrian street is where you’ll find the majority of the alternative brands, vintage shops and hip restaurants and cafes. Cat Street is where the original Harajuku hipsters have now fled with the onset of so many tourists along Takeshita Street. These pedestrianised roads have a different feel to them, greenery seems to pour over the edges of buildings and there is a more peaceful, laid back feeling to the stores and laneways.

RAGTAG

RAGTAG both looks and feels more like a department store than a second-hand designer clothing store. The Japanese are very passionate about reducing waste and you really do see less fast fashion here in lieu of stores like RAGTAG which have branches all over Japan. They verify every piece of clothing they sell so you know you’re getting the real deal. While the more rare pieces are pretty costly, this is a great opportunity to nab yourself some designer pieces for a great price!

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Harajuku Gyozaro

If you need somewhere to replenish after all that walking and shopping, look no further! Harajuku Gyozaro is a cheap and delicious option offering steamed and fried gyoza. The gyoza costs only 290 yen ($2.50 US), which is an absolute steal! Try to avoid the lunch and dinner rush, because this is a popular spot and it gets PACKED. Going on off hours is a great way to sneak in without too long of a line up. There isn’t much selection so it’s easy to order, just try to figure out how many orders of these delicious treats you’ll want!

Kiddy Land

Right along the main road as you exit the quiet Cat Street you’ll find the candy apple red storefront which is Kiddy Land. Despite the word ‘kid’ in the name of the store, this place is for everyone. It’s multiple floors of delightful toys, clothing, home goods and stationary are themed after popular cartoon characters or nostalgic anime figures. My favourite was all the amazing Sailor Moon goods and My Little Pony retro items. The entire place as a joy to peruse and we even discovered ‘Gudetama‘ here which soon became our favourite Sanrio character.

6% DokiDoki

6% DokiDoki is one of Harajuku’s most iconic shops. Selling crazy coloured clothing and accessories, their unique designs became the origin of the term ‘decora’ fashion. The store looks like a Lisa Frank sticker book exploded! All their items are made just for those adults who never grew up. Hearts, stars and sparkles are mandatory in everything you see, and neon is the base layer for almost everything. I had a great time exploring the store, everything is created with such love, and even just a small piece would brighten up any outfit. The cost of these clothes was pretty high, but for such unique items, it is something worth picking up.

Rainbow Pancake

The craze for impossibly fluffy and jiggly pancakes is one still going strong in Japan and one of the best places to eat them is at Rainbow Pancake cafe. The line up can get pretty long here so the earlier you arrive the better chance you’ll have at getting a table more easily. And obviously, weekdays are less busy than on the weekends. These pancakes are made with a lot of eggs (to give them that fluffy texture) so the taste is both savoury and sweet. Top it off with over a dozens different toppings and you’ll find yourself in food heaven!

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Eddy’s Ice Cream

If you didn’t get your fill of sweetness at Rainbow Pancake then head down the winding alleyways towards Eddy’s Ice Cream. This place can be found easily by the amazing pastel painted exteriors and generally long line up outside the door. The interior is miniature but its neon pink painted walls and brightky coloured ice creams are more than enough to make it feel larger than life. Their ice creams are perfectly Instagram worthy but also super delicious. You can either choose one of their designs or build your own custom creation!

Santa Monica Vintage

Santa Monica Vintage feels like it should belong on the west coast of California and not in the crowded centre of Tokyo. Those white walls and peaceful music playing throughout transports you away from the hustle and bustle of the city. In here you’ll find some really unique pieces of clothing all with a a definite bohemian vibe.

The Airstream Garden

To finish your day in Harajuku, head over to the Airstream Garden. This coffee shop is located inside an old 1930s Airstream trailer but has a cute little sitting area outside, made out of staggered wooden steps. Here you can both enjoy the delicious coffee made inside and soak in the last little bits of Harajuku. While it might get the reputation of being a very touristy place, Harajuku is popular for a reason. Don’t let the crowds scare you off! This magical neighbourhood is worth your time and you’ll find so many more places other than the ones listed here to make your trip to Harajuku all that more special but I hope this list gets you started!

Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum

The Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum showcases the works of the late Taro Okamoto, a famous Japanese painter and sculptor. It’s a super unique museum that is truly a hidden gem. His exhibits different pieces from his collection on rotation so there is always something different to see.

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Have you been to Harajuku? What was your favourite thing you found there? If you’re planning your trip what are you most looking forward to? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Exploring Harajuku, What to See and Do in Tokyo’s Hippest Neighborhood first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

In English and French, Bruges is pronounced “broozh,” but in the native Flemish, it’s called Brugge, pronounced, “broo-gha.” Bruges is a UNESCO-protected city, and as such, historians ensure that everything remains unchanged and is in a perpetual state of Gothic opulence. Any renovations undertaken to protect buildings from the perils of old age are done with lots of research and employ only old materials to fix or repair any damage. Bruges is truly one of my favourite cities to visit. You could walk endlessly along the streets and continuously find new discoveries. It’s a fairy-tale like a village, and I think far too many people just breeze through it on a day trip from Brussels. To truly experience the city at its best, you must spend the night and dedicate 48 hours to exploring every nook and cranny of the city.

History

Before you head out on your adventures, here’s some history of giving you some context for your travels throughout this Gothic city. Bruges first established itself as a settlement in the 9th century. Since it was a city settled on the river, connected to the North Sea, it immediately became a hub for international trade. It was called Bruges after the old Scandinavian word Bryggia, which means harbour. In the middle ages, Bruges was one of the largest trade centres in northwest Europe. It specialized in Flemish cloth, one of the most important products in medieval times. Because the cloth market was exploding all over the country, more and more money poured into the city. The overwhelming wealth that the city gained over the years allowed Bruges to build some of the most impressive medieval architectural masterpieces in Europe.

15th Century Bruges

Throughout the 15th and 16th centuries, Bruges continued to fluctuate under an ever-changing economy. While other European cities were able to expand, Bruges remained a small town. It couldn’t keep up with the growth happening worldwide and eventually lost its position as a leading trade city to Antwerp with a population that doubled its own. Bruges slowly fell out of the limelight and eventually disappeared from European high society.

In the 1800s, Bruges became the most impoverished city in Belgium as all trade routes into the city had shut. It is perhaps this period of poverty that we have to thank for the preservation of the city’s historic architecture. There was no money for renovations, expansions or modernization of any kind. In the mid-19th century, when the tourism industry started to creep outside the major cities into the countryside, people began to discover this untouched gem. People from all over fell in love with the antiquated facades and peaceful canals they found here. In the 1900s, Bruges became a popular tourist destination, and eventually, in 1970, it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List and was deemed a “medieval historic settlement.”

Access

To make your way to Bruges, you can take the train from any other European city to Bruges Station or fly into the Brussels Airport, located about 110km east of Bruges. Direct trains from the Brussels Airport run every hour into Bruges station.

You can quickly get on a local bus from the train station that will take you to the town centre. The commuter bus drives through the narrow, cobblestone streets of medieval Bruges at breakneck speed. There were a few close calls as we barreled around tight corners, but any locals on the bus didn’t seem the least phased, so I took their nonplussed reaction as comfort and watched the red brick scenery pass us by.

Our bus dropped us off in Markt Square, close to our hotel, and we walked through the square dragging our rolling suitcases along as we went.

TIP: Make sure you have sturdy wheels, or better yet, a knapsack, as suitcases with wheels will take a beating in this city! They’re pretty much isn’t a single smooth surface in the entire place.

Accommodation

Another big tip for visiting Bruges is to stay at least one night in the city. Many visit only for a day trip and rush through the sites just to check them off their bucket list. I more than encourage spending a few days here to properly experience the atmosphere of this ancient city, both during the day and at night. Once the heavy loads of day-tripping tourists disappear in the afternoon, the town’s true nature comes alive. Locals open their doors, and the city feels more than just a postcard.

Hotel Jan Brito

Hotel Jan Brito can be found right in the center of Bruges, just a hop, skip and a jump from Market Square. The hotel is located inside a 16th-century manor house, and staying in this place feels like sleeping inside a piece of the history of Bruges. There are 37 different rooms to choose from, but lucky for those looking for a good deal, they also offer budget rooms where you can stay that are still beautiful but offered at a great price. These rooms will run you $136 US/night.

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Hotel Bourgoensch Hof

If you’re looking for a hotel to take your breath away, look no further than Hotel Bourgoensch Hof. This architectural masterpiece was once a famous brewery that overlooked Bruges’s canals. Despite its conversion to a hotel, the building retains many architectural details that made it unique when it was a brewery. Book one of their canal view rooms if you can splurge a bit. You can open the blinds in the morning or at night and sit on the windowsill looking out at the boats floating down the canal. Rooms will run you $180 US/night.

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More and more Airbnb options have been popping up all over Bruges. This is your chance to stay inside a historic property and treat it less like a hotel and more like a home. This option in central Bruges is a 17th-century romantic little cottage tucked away on a private street. You’ll sleep on one of the city’s most colourful and charming roofs and relax in the morning with a cup of coffee in the garden. Airbnb always offers such unique experiences and properties. This one costs $183 US/night for two people.

After you’re settled into your hotel, it’s time to dig your heels into the history, art and architecture that pours from the veins of Bruges. And what better way to do this than to take a stroll to get up close and personal with the city. You could do this entire walking tour in one day, but I advise you to break it up over two days. Allow yourself time to venture inside the buildings and museums. If you can’t do the time work, you can totally do this walking tour in one day, but it will be a push!

Self-Guided Walking Tour

The Grote Markt or Market Square

The best place to start your tour is in the Grote Markt or Market Square. Seems fitting to begin your journey where Bruges first established its trading center and the location which would bring in all the wealth the city became known for. The first known marketplace was built here in the 10th century. Later, in the 12th century, a wooden market hall was built to help house the fish and cloth imports and exports away from the cold and the sun.

Market Day

The square turned from a simple shopping arena into a meeting place for jousting tournaments, weddings, royal parades and even executions. Despite the time, the square is still used today as a modern marketplace. Every Wednesday, local vendors come out with fresh fruit, vegetables, flowers, cheese and more to sell to locals and tourists alike! It’s the perfect place to get ingredients for a picnic, so I highly recommend you visit here on a Wednesday morning!

In 1996, the square was converted into a pedestrian zone where horse-drawn carriages and bicycles were the only modes of transportation allowed. Tourists can wander and gaze up at the buildings around them without fear of being hit by a car. And gaze up, you will! While the horse and buggies might be too pricey for the regular tourist, bikes are a great way to explore the city, and Market Square is always a place to rent a bike for a few hours.

The Bruges Belfry

The Belfry Tower, atop the infamous Cloth Hall, looms over the Market square. The Belfry was built in 1240 but needed to be rebuilt in 1280 after a fire ravaged the first building. If the octagonal top looks slightly unfinished, you’d be correct. The tower was once topped with a high spire, well many spires actually, but each one was the victim of lightning strikes which reduced them all to ash. There is a famous poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow which goes,

In the marketplace of Bruges stands the Belfry old and brown; Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilt. Still, it watches o’er the town.

In the medieval ages, the Belfry’s bells were the only indicator citizens had to tell the start of the workday, to signal for fire, or even to mark the beginning of a festival or event. In the 16th century, a 35-set carillon was installed in the tower. A carillon is a set of bells which could be played using a keyboard below the tower, creating a more musical sound than a few single bells rung from ropes ever could.

Climbing the Tower

You can still climb the 366 steps to the top of the tower as patrolmen once used to do to look out for fires that could have destroyed this incredible city. The view from the top is unparalleled and worth the time and effort it takes to climb up. These days the cost to climb the tower is € 12,00 for adults if you have the money to spend this is a great experience. I recommended visiting the Concertgebouw Circuit if you want a great view across the city with a slightly lower price and fewer tourists. The cost to visit the roof terrace on the seventh floor is only €8, and you’ll also see a fine collection of modern art. There is definitely a price you pay for history at the Belfry, so just weigh which ones are more important to you.

Snack on “French” Fries

At the bottom of the Belfry Tower is a local french fry vendor who serves up some of the most delicious Belgian french fries. There are ongoing disputes over the term “french fries” and their origin. The Belgians insist it was them, but the French disagree. The story goes that when American armies were stationed in Belgium, the Flemish military served them up one of their favourite (and inexpensive) meals – fried strips of potatoes.

The American army LOVED them and took the recipe back home. They ended up calling them french fries since French was the local language in Belgium then, and the Americans assumed they have stationed in France, not Belgium since that’s the language they heard spoken. While the French aren’t known for selling fries on the street, the Belgians have perfected this snack to be served on the go. They serve them alongside a mustard and mayonnaise dipping sauce which is an oddly delicious side dish and the perfect thing to eat to keep you going throughout your walking tour.

While chowing down on your snack, take a moment to study the brightly coloured buildings surrounding that square. Each one is topped with iconic crow-stepped gables, which have become the quintessential characteristic of Bruges.

Jan Breydel

Take a seat in the centre of the square, beneath the grand statue of Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck. These two men are local heroes known for leading the uprising against the invading French in 1302 and keeping Bruges a part of Belgium.

Provincial Hof

Across from the statue is the Provincial Hof or Provincial Court. The building now houses the Government of West Flanders and a local post office, but hundreds of years ago, it was home to the largest port in Bruges. Initially built in 1294, it was demolished in 1787 and rebuilt in a Neo-Gothic style reminiscent of the original Gothic roots of the city. One of the most iconic parts of its design is the bright red dormer windows which pop out of the stone grey roof.

Hendrik and Gustaaf Pickery designed all the interior decorations. You’ll find intricate stained glass windows and exquisite ironwork which covers all the rooms like wild vines. Gothic architecture was inspired by nature and how the organic world is so free and ornate. The statues and murals within depict scenes of famous people from West Flanders, a visual history of the building of their great city spread out for you in art.

Chocolatier Dumon

Dumon Chocolates are one of the most popular souvenirs people bring home from Bruges. Belgium is known worldwide for their chocolate creations, and Dumon has found a way of perfecting the art. Established in 1992, this family-run business expanded around Belgium, but their first family-run shop was in Bruges.

As you open the door, you are overwhelmed with melting chocolate’s sweet and slightly bitter scent. The tiny shop is almost arm’s length wide but is charmingly cluttered. Chocolates glisten behind glass cabinets, and you can’t help but start to drool. While there are no labels, the kind employees (all family members) will lovingly tell you about all the different kinds of chocolate and prepare a customized box with all your favourites. They speak English in addition to French and Belgian, but if you can’t communicate, you can’t go wrong with anything inside.

Hof Bladelin

Past Dumon, walking along the narrow streets and alleyways, you come upon Hof Bladelin. Hof Bladelin was once an aristocratic mansion, which has now been converted into a home for the elderly and a small museum. The Hof Bladelin was built in 1451 as the house of Pieter Bladelin and his wife, Margaret of Vagewierre. Pieter was the counsellor and treasurer for Philip the Good, the Duke of Burgundy. At the time, he was one of the wealthiest men in Bruges and wanted to build a house which reflected his enormous wealth. The Bladelins had no children, and after their death, the house came up for auction in 1472. It was purchased by the Medicis, a powerful Florentine banking family known for covering the most beautiful pieces of art and architecture from the world’s greatest artists.

The Hof Bladelin has the architectural design of a Gothic castle. The Renaissance courtyard was designed in the Italian style and added to the building by the Medici family. Stone medallion portraits of Lorenzo de Medici and his wife can still be found in the courtyard. The ribbed vaulted ceiling in the interiors has some interesting corbels adorned with scenes depicting the duties of Bladelin and the life of St. Alphege of Canterbury.

The Poortersloge

The Poortersloge, or Burgher’s Lodge, is an exemplary model of Gothic architecture in Bruges. It was built at the end of the 14th century and served as a meeting place for the burghers (town or city’s citizens). One can admire its magnificent façade, decorated with stone figures; one of these is of the legendary bear, Beertje van de Logie, dated 1417. In the past, banquets and festivities were held here; nowadays, the building contains historical documents.

Cambrinus

If you’re feeling peckish, stop off at the Cambrinus pub. The building oozes history. The original pub was built here in 1699, and despite a few updates, much of the place remains the same. When you arrive, the waiter will bring you a book the size of a dictionary with over 400 varieties of beer listed and vivid descriptions in various languages. There, indeed is something for everyone. In addition to the best beer list in the country, their traditional Brugian food is also to die for. The rabbit stew is my favourite and will warm you up from the inside out if you are travelling in any of the colder months.

Burg Square

Burg Square is one of the most stunningly old parts of the city. Surrounding you from all sides are architectural gems from the Gothic era, the Renaissance and the Neo-Classical revival.

Burg Town Hall

Burg Town Hall, or Stadhuis, is the oldest building in the square, built in 1376 in authentic Gothic fashion. Between the bright red painted window frames are carvings of men from the Court of Flanders intermingled with biblical figures. Each one looks down at the townspeople below, guiding and inspiring them to do good in their daily lives.

Palace of the Liberty

Sandwiched between the Town Hall is the Palace of the Liberty. This once served as the Old Court House for more than 200 years. The brilliant white painted facade with gold trim is decorated like a wedding cake with a golden Lady of Justice statue on top.

Basilica of the Holy Blood

In the corner of the square, tucked away so tightly it almost seems to disappear, stands the Basilica of the Holy Blood. This 14th-century church holds one essential item, a vial of “Holy Blood,” believed to be drops of blood and water washed from the body of Jesus Christ.

Behind its dark, richly decorated facade hides an even more ornamental interior. The interior houses two chapels, each polar opposite of the other. The upper chapel is the crown jewel of West Flanders in high Gothic style. From floor to ceiling, there are darkly painted murals depicting the Holy Trinity and various scenes of the journey of the Holy Blood Relic to Bruges. Vividly portrayed stained glass windows provide the only natural light inside the chapel. Little modern lighting has been installed inside to ensure the murals don’t fade with time, so this sombre lighting constantly fills the church.

Holy Blood relic

The Holy Blood relic is embedded in a rock-crystal vial and placed inside a glass cylinder framed with two golden crowns. It is only shown to the public on certain days of the week, so if you’re making a pilgrimage just to see it, check the schedule. When it is not displayed, it is housed inside a silver tabernacle with a picture of the Lamb of God on the front. In recent years the validity of the vial has come under question, and investigations have shown that it was nothing more than a Byzantine perfume bottle from Constantinople. But to those who believe, no amount of science can deter them.

The lower chapel is a simple Romanesque layout from the 12th century, the last Romanesque church in all of West Flanders. This chapel has been virtually unchanged since it was first built. The two chapels are connected, but a large brick staircase was built in 1533 in the Renaissance style, which was subsequently destroyed during the French WWII occupation but rebuilt in the 19th century. Moving from one chapel to another is like stepping back in time, and you really appreciate the incredible technological advances.

Vismarkt

Across the bridge from Burg Square is the Vismarkt or Old Fish Market. The fish market was once located in Market Square, but the smell of the fish was so intense that people around the square complained, so it was moved further east. The covered stone arcade was built in 1821. The market is only open from Wednesday to Saturday in the early morning, but you can visit the iconic stone structure anytime.

Dijver Canal

From the Fish Market, walk west along the Dijver canal. The canal’s passageway from the fish market to Nieuwstraat provides a classical view of Bruges, great for picture taking. Various restaurants along the canal are reasonably touristy but provide one of the most beautiful vistas in Bruges. If you just want to hop into one of their patios for a drink, I think the overpriced beer is well worth the scenery. This is a great place to end your first day, or if you’re trying to squeeze it all into 24 hours, you can continue from here.

Groeninge Museum

Across the street and down a few lanes from the canal is the Groeninge Museum. The Groeninge Museum is an essential stop on your tour of Bruges as it introduces you to Brugian and Belgian art over six centuries.

The Primitive Flemish style of painting is featured throughout the walls of museums. Flemish art isn’t classically thought of as exceedingly masterful since it sometimes seems grotesque, raw and explicit. But that’s exactly what I love about it. Flemish painters were always trying to emulate their Italian counterparts to achieve a dynamic perspective, but they didn’t have the technical skills to realize these effects. The result is images which appear almost warped, but whose expressions are so real they leave a lasting impression on the people who view them.

Arents House Courtyard

Across from the Groeninge Museum, you’ll find the Arents House. Arents House was once an ancient manor belonging to the noble Arents family. It now hosts an extensive collection of paintings by the British artist Frank Brangwyn. While it might be worth a visit on a more extended tour to Bruges, today, we are merely exploring its courtyard.

The small square between the two medieval houses is the perfect place to stop and pause. Listen to the sounds of cobblestones underfoot and the trickle of water which flows down the canal. From Arents Court, you have one of the most splendid views of the Church of Our Lady’s tower. If you’re lucky, you’ll hear the church bell rings across the street and the soft crowing of birds perched above. Four exciting sculptures by artist Rik Poot surround the courtyard, representing the “Four Apocalyptic Knights,” which greatly complement the artistic surroundings.

Bonifacius Bridge

Before heading to the Church of Our Lady, you’ll pass across the Bonifacius Bridge. Despite only dating from 1910, it is one of the most beautiful bridges in Bruges. The tightly interlaced cobblestones and red brick archway provide the perfect frame for the church towers behind it. Standing on the bridge, you can watch tourists paddle up and down the canal. Looking atop the bridge, you have this lovely view of some of the most charming houses peeking out onto the water.

The Church of Our Lady

All of the churches in Bruges are enormous. They seem to absolutely tower over the tiny houses below. The Church of Our Lady’s tower is 122 meters high, the highest point in Bruges and the world’s second tallest brickwork tower. Because the church took over two centuries to build, it combines various evolutions of Gothic and Baroque architecture.

Interior of the Church

‘While the interior might not be as grand as its exterior, it is still worth poking your head inside. The central organ is small but opulent, hiding behind the high altar screen. A few dozen simple chairs provide seating for the small but dedicated congregation. The altar screen is unique both in colouring and design. Its white and green coloured marble interior is highlighted with splashes of gold leafing. The green marble is a feature you don’t always see, making this cathedral interior special. Along the nave are columns dotted with reliefs of various influential saints. A large wooden pulpit stands at attention on the right side of the nave; dozens of beautifully carved cherubs hang off the sides, clinging to books with golden scriptures written for the people below to read.

Behind the high altar is the resting place of two of Bruges’ most famous residents. The golden tombs of Charles the Bold and the Duchess Mary of Burgundy lie in quiet repose beneath a magnificent tryptic. Their elaborately designed tombs are worth looking at, so don’t miss touring the back half of the church.

Madonna and Child

The crown jewel of this church is the white marble sculpture of the Madonna and Child, created by Michelangelo in 1504. Over the years, the statue has been stolen by foreign invaders, but those dedicated to preserving its place in Bruges have always managed to bring it back home. Although this sculpture doesn’t have the same impact as Michelangelo’s Pieta in Rome, the sadness on Madonna’s face reflects her knowledge that this little boy will grow up only to die for the sins of his people. It’s an ominous prelude of things to come and a wonderful piece of Michelangelo’s portfolio.

Gruuthuse Hof

Away from the Church of Our Lady is the Gruuthuse Hof, a small but historic dwelling adorably sandwiched between two major streets. Although it has now been converted into a restaurant, the Gruuthuse Hof is one of the oldest residences in Bruges. While in one of the prime locations for tourists, the restaurant keeps a somewhat simple, traditional menu that caters to locals and tourists alike. With only 28 seats inside and 12 on the patio, the place remains intimate despite its popularity over the eras. If you can find a table, it’s worth stopping in for the featured meal of the day.

St. Salvator’s Cathedral

Up from the Gruuthuse Hof is St. Salvator’s Cathedral. It is the oldest parish church in Bruges, with parts dating back to the 10th century. But the original design was much less grandiose than the current incarnation. In 1834, after Belgium’s independence, St. Salvator’s was given the status of a cathedral, and the meagre church had to be extensively renovated to match its new profile.

The architect of the new cathedral was William Chantrell, an English architect who was greatly influenced by the resurgence of Neo-Romanesque architecture. Neo-Romanesque buildings feature thick walls, round arches, sturdy pillars, barrel vaults, large towers and decorative arcading. Because most of the rest of Bruges is so powerfully Gothic, this church really stands out.

Jasper van der Borcht

The neo-Gothic interior of the church is relatively plain but is accented with stunning embroidered tapestries from the 18th century. These antiquated works of art were made in Brussels by Jasper van der Borcht and featured astounding Bible scenes, all created with needles and thread. To the left of the nave, the pulpit is a stunning example of Louis XVI’s designs. Designs of Louis XVI were predominantly produced in France and exemplified the last phase of the Rococo style. The techniques focused on natural forms and dramatic embellishments.

Old St. John’s Hospital

Walking down from St. Salvator’s Cathedral, we come upon Old St. John’s Hospital, which is now the Memling Museum. Before becoming a museum, it was used as a hospital for the sick and dying, who were administered to by nuns and priests. Inside are many relics and six paintings by a 15th-century painter and Bruges resident Hans Memling.

One of the highlights inside is the Shrine to St. Ursula. In the shape of the church, there are six panels carved into a gilded wooden reliquary that tell the story of St. Ursula’s sainthood, painted by Memling himself. The work was commissioned by the Hospital of St. John and is one of the most exquisite pieces of religious art I’ve seen close up. The three-dimensional details and rich colours are remarkable. Inside the museum, you can also visit the old pharmacy. It’s a real treat for anyone who loves going back in time and seeing how sickness was treated in the 1800s. It will make you very thankful for modern medicine, that’s for sure!

De Vos Almshouse

Further south, away from the central part of the city, we will come across the De Vos Almshouse. This small grouping of little houses, facing a lush green herb and flower garden, once housed poor residents, widows and the elderly. The homes were purchased by a wealthy Brugian merchant who loved his city and wanted to give back to the less fortunate. Each house was donated to a specific guild (e.g., the mason’s guild, the blacksmiths, the coopers etc.) and would provide housing for members of that guild when they became too old to work, fell ill or lost their jobs. You might notice how none of the houses have windows which face the street – this was because, at the time of their construction, there was a tax imposed for any street-facing window, and to save money, the builders were sure to avoid designing any street-facing windows.

Beguinage

Before our final destination, stop into the Beguinage’ De Wijngaard‘ or Vineyard. This grouping of identical-looking white houses is one of the most peaceful places to rest your weary feet in Bruges. So far away from the town centre, this site is often unvisited by day-tripping tourists, so you’ll usually have it all to yourself.

Since 1245, the Beguine sisterhood of Bruges has lived here, and in 1937 it became a monastery for the Benedictine sisters. To enter the Beguinage, you first pass through a large arched entrance gate built in 1776. Inside you find houses which range from the 15th to 19th century.

The Minnewater

Minnewater, or Lake of Love, is one of the most beloved retreats for the remaining permanent residents of Bruges. Again, since this is farther away from the historic centre, you’ll find that fewer tourists make their way here, and more locals are seen simply enjoying a day out in the park. Swans float up and down the picturesque canals, and lovers roam under the densely forested pathways, arm in arm. This is the ideal place to reflect on your time in Bruges.

Dine on Mussels

Head up from Minneswater towards ‘T walpoortje restaurant for a great dinner to end your long day! If you’re wondering what to eat on your last day here, I recommend the mussels or modules and frites, as they’re called in Bruges. Mussels are a Belgian specialty. They are so simple to cook, so you can’t go wrong. The ones here are extra delicious, and you won’t be able to leave even a drop behind!

Explore the City at Twilight

If you’ve taken my advice and planned to stay the night, you’re in for a treat! Nighttime changes the appearance of the city. When the sun sets, there is something about making even those little modern touches disappear, and you’re left with only the city’s medieval roots. Many historic buildings are lit at night, giving them an eerie golden against the midnight blue sky. The street will be as quiet as you’ll ever find them. We walked for almost an hour without seeing a single another tourist. Only the gargoyles are looking down on us. It was spooky but, honestly, one of the coolest experiences of the trip! Make an effort and stay the night, and you’ll be rewarded with something truly special.

And with the setting of the sun and the night drawing to a close, it’s time to head home. This concludes my little walking tour and guide to Bruges. I hope this helps you plan out your time on your trip to this magical Medieval city! Let me know in the comments what your favourite part of the city was or what you’re most interested in learning about on your future travels out in Bruges!

Happy Travels Adventurers

The post The Best 24-Hours in Bruges, a Self-Guided Tour of the City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The term ‘taking the waters’ is a saying the locals frequently mention. They believe that bathing in these thermal springs helps with many different health problems from arthritis to eczema. They have even been known to help soothe the mind if you’ve been experiencing any level of stress in your life. Since most baths in Budapest are unisex, this is the perfect place to go with your family, friends or as a romantic and relaxing day out with your partner.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. What to Expect
   • Male-only or Female-only Days
3. What to Bring?
   • Towels
   • Footwear
   • Head Gear
4. Pricing
5. Layout
   • Lockers
   • Cabins
6. Where to Go
   • Széchenyi Baths
   • Király Baths
   • Gellert Baths
   • Rudas Baths

History

One of the reasons the Romans came to colonise the city we now call Budapest, was to utilise their rich wealth of thermal springs. Even today, you can visit the ruins of some of these ancient Roman baths. Romans long used thermal waters for both medical and cleansing purposes since most people didn’t have running water in their homes. The Romans knew there were many benefits gained by bathing in thermal springs. Healing elements in the water include magnesium, calcium and sulphate. These are effortlessly absorbed into your skin while bathing and help with poor circulation, arthritis and many skin conditions. Once the Turkish invaded, they constructed their own unique bathhouses in the 15th century, some of which still are standing today. While looking at history on the walls of museums is a treat, there is nothing like experiencing history for yourself!

What to Expect

To prepare for your first time in the waters, it’s best to know what to expect. That way you won’t be surprised by any unforeseen steps along the way. All baths have different opening times and may differ on some policies. But for the most part, they all provide the same general experience. Depending on what vibe you’re going for will determine which place you’ll end up at. But you really can’t go wrong with any of them for an authentic experience.

For our first time visiting a spa, we settled on the Gellert Baths. Not only are the waters here arguably located inside the most gorgeous environment, and slightly less touristy than the Szechenyi Baths, they also have a great set of amenities. But finding a spa that caters to tourists isn’t a bad thing for your first time. Some people might want to avoid the more popular locations to get a more traditional experience other might want to find somewhere that caters to the language barrier and provides ample signage and instructions will make you feel more comfortable on your first time inside.

Male-only or Female-only Days

Some spas have male-only or female-only days and the hours vary from spa to spa, so be sure to check their websites before you go. If you’re interested in these same-sex days for your own comfort, be warned that these will be clothing optional. You are more than welcome to wear your bathing suit, but many will opt to go completely nude. This may make some people uncomfortable, but if you’re brave enough, the experience is very freeing.

What to Bring?

Towels

Towels are necessary for bathing, and they won’t be provided for free. You must bring your own, or you can rent one at a relatively low cost. They usually tend to be around £3 so if you’re only going once or twice it is worth it not to have to lug around a wet towel. But if you plan on visiting multiple times, it might be worth bringing the towel from your hotel.

Footwear

Flip flops are another essential item to carry with you since the wet, cold floors aren’t the best for bare feet and in the summer the tile can get hot underfoot. Leave them on the side of the pool before getting in, don’t worry, everyone does it, so you don’t need to worry about them getting stolen.

Head Gear

Most of the spas require bathing caps if you choose to swim in the main pools – not the hot baths – so bring your own or be prepared to pay for a disposable one. Again, this will be listed online, so you can always check the requirements before arriving. It’s also a good idea to bring a bottle of water with you since the hot waters will quickly get you dehydrated. You can always buy water inside, but it will no doubt be pricier than if you bring your own.

Pricing

Admission prices vary, mostly depending on the size and quality of the baths. But generally, the prices are around £6-10/per person ($7-$12 US). It isn’t necessary to buy tickets to enter the bathhouse in advance. Some websites sell spa tickets at a higher price than at the door. And it is never necessary since even on the busiest days you can always get in. This is just a scam to get tourists to feel like they NEED to pre-purchase or risk not being admitted. But if you feel like getting a massage, be sure to book these in advance to guarantee a spot. These cost anywhere from £15-60 ($17-$70 US) depending on the length and kind of treatment.

Layout

Once you pay your admission, you will be given an electronic bracelet or key to a locker or cabin where you can get changed. The lockers are included in regular admission to the spas but to use a changing cabin, this will cost extra. We tried both variations and found that the choice is more dependent on your comfort level. My husband is a bit shy when it comes to new experiences so he preferred the changing cabin since we could use this together and didn’t need to be separated.

Lockers

To open the lockers with the electronic bracelets, place your bracelet against the number on the locker and it will pop open. Magic! The lockers are only big enough for storage or your clothes and valuables. To get changed, you’ll have to use the public change rooms. These are also separated into male and female changing rooms, so if you’re here with family or as a couple you’ll need to go about this individually.

Cabins

Cabins, on the other hand, are large enough for one person or two people to change inside, as well as storing your items. If you’re a little shyer, opt for the cabins. They cost a little bit more but are worth it for the comfort.

The layout of many of the spas follows a similar design. There is a large, refreshing pool where people can swim laps or just float and relax. Then there are various hot tubs for unwinding, each heated (or cooled) to a different temperature. Each of the various temperatures of the pools is designed with to help heal what ails you, the cold pools, for instance, are supposed to help with poor circulation and while it is pretty shocking to jump into it did really help my jet lag!

There are also various saunas, steam rooms, massage areas and lounge chairs to lie down on both inside and outside the spas. There is definitely more to do here than just soak in the waters. Be sure to explore. Many of the spas contain dozens of distinct baths, some in somewhat obscure or hidden places. If you ever get too far off course or enter an off-limits area, a kind employee will always guide you back, so don’t be afraid to walk around.

Where to Go

Széchenyi Baths

If you’re pressed for time and only have room in your schedule to visit one Hungarian Bath, Széchenyi Baths is the place to go. It’s so iconic and has a myriad of fantastical pools to explore. This bath was built in 1913 and boasts a beautiful bright yellow Neo-baroque design which gives stunning views inside and out. Inside the main outdoor pool, you can play chess while lounging in the water and even stop for a bite to eat in their cafeteria.

Király Baths

Király Baths is one of the most authentic spas to visit. Although it’s rather small, with only four pools, this place has stood in the same spot since the Ottoman-era and bathing in here is like stepping back in time. It’s worth visiting if you love ancient architecture or are a big history buff.

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Gellert Baths

The Gellert Baths was built in 1918 and is my favourite of all the spas. It might not be as big as Széchenyi or as historic as Rudas, but the art nouveau designs throughout make it a stunning building to relax inside. Their indoor “cathedral” swimming pool with enormous stained glass skylight is the perfect place to swim no matter the season. If you feel brave enough, dip into the carbonic acid tub-bath. This bath is supposed to help with cardiovascular problems, osteoporosis and rheumatic pain.

Rudas Baths

Rudas Baths are another Ottoman-era spa built around 1550. There is one sizeable octagonal areas and four smaller pools surrounding it. All of which are nestled under the quintessential Turkish dome. Rudas Baths are only mixed sexes on the weekend. Throughout the week they rotate between female-only or male-only. Be sure to check the schedule before you come.

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No matter what spa you choose to visit while in Budapest, you’re bound to have a fantastic experience! Take the plunge and leave your inhibitions at the door. Soak up all the elemental goodness in those thermal waters. And leave feeling ready to continue on your adventures, renewed and refreshed.

Did you have a chance to visit any of these famous pools while in Budapest? Let me know in the comments which was your favourite thermal bath. Or if you found any hidden locations I need to visit on my next trip out there!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Everything You Need to Know Before You Visit Budapest’s Famous Thermal Baths and Spas first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

But in recent years, Downtown Las Vegas has seen a boom in popularity, and people are more and more choosing to venture up to DTLV (as it is now conveniently called) to seek out the city’s origins and the alternative scene found there. Here is my list of the 21 best things to see and do in Downtown Las Vegas, along with a handy dandy map at the bottom so you can plan your trip accordingly.

Table Of Contents

1. Breakfast at the Peppermill Restaurant
2. Shop at the Bonanza Gift Shop
3. Watch Newlyweds at the Little White Chapel
4. Get Spooked at Zak Bagans' Haunted Museum
5. Enjoy the Multicoloured Metals at The Neon Museum
6. Go back in time on Fremont Street
7. Watch the ‘Viva Vision’ Light Show
8. Bunk down at the Golden Nugget Casino and Hotel
9. Relax in ‘The Tank’
10. Get Fine Dining for Less at Vic and Anthony's Steakhouse
11. Watch the Sigma Derby at the D Casino
12. Main Street Station Hotel and Casino
13. Pose with with Cowboys and Girls at Glitter Gulch
14. Admire the old Fremont East District
15. Admire some Vintage Neon Revival
16. Have a Drink at the Commonwealth Bar
17. Fuel up at Le Thai Restaurant
18. Admire the Urban Design of Container Park
19. Get the Dirty Details about Vegas’ Past at The Mob Museum
20. Chow down on pastries at the Donut Bar
21. Find Street Art

Breakfast at the Peppermill Restaurant

The Peppermill Restaurant in Las Vegas is a retro-lovers dream. It feels like one of those restaurants you could only find in Vegas. The restaurant and lounge are decorated so perfectly that it feels like stepping back in time. So much so you’d swear you just saw Elvis sitting at the bar, smoking a cigar and swirling a colourful drink in front of the fireplace (and yes, indeed, there is a fireplace). When you walk into the Peppermill, you step into sensory overload. Bright purple lights almost blind you, and blue velvet carpets and walls get you feeling cozy.

There are pink flamingo-stained glass lampshades and a swelling cherry blossom tree growing out of the middle of the restaurant. There are GIANT fishbowl drinks as colourful as the decor; even the sugar in the dispenser is multicoloured! The cocktails are all beyond fabulous, and the friendly servers make the entire experience one of a kind.

Shop at the Bonanza Gift Shop

No visit to Vegas is complete without visiting the Bonanza Gift & Souvenir Shop. This landmark is known worldwide as the World’s Largest Gift Shop, with over 36,000 square feet of shopping space. They specialize in kitschy souvenirs, and you’ll find everything from cheesy Vegas snow globes, eclectic postcards, hilariously themed playing cards, Elvis-themed items, religious icons plastered on burlap purses and miles and miles of plastic flip-flops. You might walk out with nothing, but walking around those hundreds of aisles is attractive.

Watch Newlyweds at the Little White Chapel

The trip to Las Vegas is complete without stopping to see the Little White Chapel. This tiny building is covered in hearts and surrounded by white wrought iron filigree. The church has been the site of over 800,000 quickie weddings since it opened in 1951. It is open 24 hours a day and has a drive-thru tunnel of “vows” where couples can wed without leaving their vehicle! It is a charming piece of Las Vegas history, and I adore the intentionally tacky aesthetic. Although it might never be where I could see myself getting married, it is a fun place to watch people.

Get Spooked at Zak Bagans’ Haunted Museum

Las Vegas is known as a place for the wild and weird, and what is weirder than a haunted museum? Zak Bagans’ Museum is located inside one of Las Vegas’s most haunted houses and features a variety of spooky and scary items, all of which have been known to be haunted. If you’re interested in the paranormal, this place is worth checking out, if only for the weirdness factor.

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Enjoy the Multicoloured Metals at The Neon Museum

Neon signs are synonymous with Las Vegas. Imagine walking down the strip with only simple street lamps lighting your way. It wouldn’t have the same effect, would it? Neon has been a part of Vegas since its inception, and the Neon Museum, founded in 1996, made it its mission to preserve these historical pieces of the city, even after their useful life was over or their original buildings were torn down. Dubbed ‘The Neon Boneyard,’ this large plot of land north of the city is where you can find the Neon Museum, a non-profit organization which collects, preserves, studies and exhibits a variety of old Las Vegas signs for educational, historical and cultural purposes.

They do tours of their collection during the day and at night. While most of the neon here is long past being able to be lit up, they have spent a lot of money restoring some of their more important pieces. Visiting the collection is not only a feast for the eyes, but the stories the curators tell you as you walk through the boneyard make the history of Las Vegas come alive, and every single rusty letter seems to have its own story to tell.

Go back in time on Fremont Street

Fremont Street is the site of the original “strip” where all the top casinos in Vegas once stood before the expansion in the mid-1980s that saw newer, swankier hotels opening up along Las Vegas Boulevard. Now, Fremont Street offers visitors a taste of vintage Vegas at its finest. Walking these neon streets feels almost more authentically ‘Las Vegas’ than the current strip with bells and whistles. Here you’ll find some of the oldest-running casinos, with the most history seeped deeper within their walls.

Fremont Street feels a little bit more laid back, rougher and tumble and with a lack of polish that I find incredibly charming. Throughout the pedestrian street, you’ll find various stages where local musicians entertain crowds throughout the evening. Each is surprisingly talented and provides the audience with a mini-concert every evening. During certain times of the year, they’ll be themed to the season and visiting during Halloween provided us with dozens of “spooky” soundtracks to get us in the mood.

Watch the ‘Viva Vision’ Light Show

The best place to walk off a big dinner or stretch your legs is along the Fremont Street canopy, where they project the ‘Viva Vision‘ light show. Every 30 minutes, you’ll be mesmerized by the electronic canopy which covers the majority of Fremont Street pedestrian area. The Viva Vision light show was installed in 1995 and is 1,500 feet long and 90 feet wide. The 6-minute show twinkles and shines above you, beginning at dusk and ending at midnight. There are over 12.5 million energy-efficient LED lamps which dazzle viewers with the music of artists like The Who, Bon Jovi and more.

Bunk down at the Golden Nugget Casino and Hotel

The Golden Nugget was initially built in 1946, making it one of the oldest casinos in the city. This monolith of white arches and golden lights is like the White House of Nevada. Everything seemed to start with the Golden Nugget, and so many hotels and casinos attempted to replicate its gravitas over the years. Staying here, you can find deals for as low as $60/night without compromising style and comfort.

Most of the rooms have been lovingly renovated, and there is even the new Rush Tower which is brand new, yet its rooms are complete with decorative touches that evoke an old Vegas ambience. The first time we stayed in Vegas, we stayed on the strip and paid a pretty penny for a small room without a view, but here on Fremont at the Golden Nugget, we got an enormous room complete with a soaker tub and even a little sitting area with a great view for half of what we paid on the strip!

Relax in ‘The Tank’

Inside the Golden Nugget, you’ll find one of the most award-winning pools in the city. Pools and Las Vegas are two peas in a pod. Perhaps because it gets so hot outside in Nevada, people wanted to find a way to party without overheating, so they moved out of the clubs and into the pools. To our surprise, the Tank is a three-story aquarium filled with sharks! Along with the sharks are an array of other sea creatures. A giant three-storey water slide runs through the aquarium, making you feel as though you’re right in there with the sharks themselves. There are a few firepits outside burning during the colder months, and in the summer, there are loungers right inside the pool, so no matter when you visit, it’s a great place to grab a few cocktails and relax.

Get Fine Dining for Less at Vic and Anthony’s Steakhouse

There are many choices for steak dinners in Vegas, each one boasting
their specialties and seemingly impossibly low prices. But I think there is only one *real* choice, and that is Vic and Anthony’s Steakhouse. Labelled as one of the best steakhouses in the USA, this place will never disappoint in its upscale Vegas atmosphere and phenomenal food. Be sure to make a reservation and make mention of the Distinctive Dining menu.

The Distinctive Dining menu costs $49.95/person and features a three-course prix fixe meal. This deal is unreal since a single steak itself could run you that much without any of the other offerings you’ll get with this deal. There is no skimping on the portions, either. We started with the Lobster Bisque, chose the Petite Filet served with Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes as the entree and ended with the Crème Brulee. Just be sure to print out the menu or mention it when making your reservation since. Otherwise, you won’t be able to get the deal. This is sort of like a little secret that only those who’ve done their research are rewarded with!

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Watch the Sigma Derby at the D Casino

Inside the slightly dull-looking facade of the D Las Vegas Casino, you’ll find one of the most engrossing vintage games in the city. The classic Sigma Derby slot machine can be found on the casino’s second floor. You can usually find your way there through the screams and cheers of the people surrounding it. You don’t need to spend any money to enjoy the experience of watching other wagers on their favourite metallic jockeys. Up to ten players can place bets on five minature horses with quarters. These machines were Japanese-made and built in the 1980s. Only two of the hundreds produced are still in working order, and one can be found here in Fremont.

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Main Street Station Hotel and Casino

The Main Street Station Hotel and Casino opened in 1978, yet its architecture and decor evoke a historical sensibility. It feels more like a wild west saloon than it does a retro casino. While the casino is the major draw to this place, what I love most is the self-guided tours you can take of their antique and artifact collection. The casino has amassed an incredible anthology of curiosities worldwide over the years. You can pick up a “Guide to Artifacts, Antiques and Artworks” at their front desk to use to lead yourself around the collection. Their gallery includes pieces of the Berlin Wall, stained glass from the Lillian Russell Mansion, doors and facade from the Kuwait Royal Bank, doors from the George Pullman Mansion, Louisa May Alcott Pullman car and chandeliers from the Coca-Cola building and Figaro Opera House.

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Pose with with Cowboys and Girls at Glitter Gulch

I think some of the best modern neon signage can be found on Fremont street, and the crowning glory is the area around the “Glitter Gulch.” The two most popular flashing signs are on either side of the street. Vegas Vic stands casually atop the Pioneer Gift Shop, his sturdy winking smile beckoning in customers. Opposite Vic is his female companion, complete with a matching cowboy hat above the “Glitter Gulch” strip club. While the strip club might not be your thing, the flashing lights of the sign are enough to attract at least a few curious minds.

Admire the old Fremont East District

Fremont East is outside of the canopy and pedestrian mall. It is a hipster mecca where you’ll find uniquely themed restaurants and bars. This area was left previously unloved for years, but thanks to a multimillion-dollar investment by a private partnership, this part of Fremont is now home to some hippest lounges and happening art scenes. As soon as you step out from under the electric canopy, you feel like you’ve entered another world. This place almost feels more like Brooklyn than Nevada. And for those looking for more eclectic, less touristy scenes, this is a welcome addition to Las Vegas.

Admire some Vintage Neon Revival

The Las Vegas Neon Museum has been raising money and working with the city to restore some of the historical and awe-inspiring neon signs from years past. Thought to be only good for scrap metal and left to rot, the museum restored these iconic signs, which are now on display in this “urban gallery” along Fremont Street East. We saw on our walk the incredible Silver Slipper. Formerly on show in 1950 outside the Golden Slipper casino, it now stands in its full glory at the gates of Fremont East. We also saw the Hacienda Horse, built in 1967 and installed at the Hacienda Hotel on Las Vegas Boulevard South. Seeing these retro signs in working order is a great way to make history come alive, and we felt especially thankful for organizations like the Neon Museum.

Have a Drink at the Commonwealth Bar

If you’re looking to grab a drink in the East District, head over to Commonwealth. I was first drawn to this bar because of its laid-back upstairs terrace, but the entire downstairs bar is equally as impressive. The decor inside is inspired by the era of prohibition, covered in dark leather, ornate chandeliers, exposed ancient bricks and an entire wall dedicated to displaying their collections of antique whiskey bottles. If you want a more relaxed environment, head here in the earlier portion of the evening as the party starts late at night.

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Fuel up at Le Thai Restaurant

Although this favourite dinner joint can get busy, with a waitlist of over an hour, it’s well worth the wait. You can also spend your time waiting at any cool bars nearby. Inside the unassuming brick and corrugated metal facade, you’ll find one of Vegas’s best-priced and best-tasting restaurants. The Le Thai classics include larb salad (made with ground chicken, lime juice and fresh herbs) and their famous three-colour curry! This food will give you that much-needed boost to keep your energy up all night long!

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Admire the Urban Design of Container Park

Container Park is one of the newest fads in urban development, and parks like this have been popping up throughout the country. Vegas’ Container Park is an open-air shopping centre built from repurposed shipping containers. Here you can find boutique shops, restaurants, and live entertainment. Greeting you at the door to the park is a giant 55-foot metal praying mantis sculpture which even shoots flames on special occasions. Even if you’re not in the mood for shopping or food (although there’s lots of that if you are), this park is unique and a great place to walk around and window shop. Some of the park’s attractions are geared towards children, but the park has a 9 pm curfew for kids, after which it’s adults only. One of my favourite parts of the park is the Sweet Spot, which sells vintage and classic candy.

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Get the Dirty Details about Vegas’ Past at The Mob Museum

Crime and Casinos go hand-in-hand; as such, Las Vegas has a torrid history with the mob stretching back as far as its inception. If your interests lie in this area of history, then the Mob Museum is your place! The Mob Museum is spread across three floors, each providing the viewers with high-tech theatre presentations, iconic one-of-a-kind artifacts and interactive, themed environments. You’ll undoubtedly recognize different gangsters’ names throughout the museum, but their real histories are much different than their Hollywood dramatizations.

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Chow down on pastries at the Donut Bar

The Donut Bar in downtown Las Vegas is one of the hottest spots for sweet treats. So hot that on most days, the shop closes before mid-afternoon because they’ve already sold out! One of the big reasons this place is so popular is because of its vegan doughnuts as well as its indulgent and opulent flavours and designs. You can try the famed Harry Potter Butter Beer doughnut, a Pop Tart doughnut complete with jam filling, and yes, you can even get a Monte Crisco made with a doughnut and stuffed with ham and cheese!

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Find Street Art

Fremont Street is one of the most popular areas to search for some incredible street art. This rebellious part of the city is covered in dazzling graffiti that makes this previously quiet area downtown come alive. You can wander up and down the side streets to discover new and old works from local artisans. The best time to take this walk is during the day since the murals aren’t lit up at night, and it’s best to see them in all their colourful glory.

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Downtown Las Vegas is truly a unique spectacle, and if you’re visiting the city, it’s a shame to miss out on the historic nature of this district and all the awesome sights to be seen therein. Let me know if you’ve visited Downtown Las Vegas and what your favourite thing to do there was!

Happy Travels Adventurers.

The post The Best Things to do in Downtown Las Vegas Besides Gambling first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
   • The Inari Kami
3. Torii Gates
4. The Power of Vermilion
5. The Main Hall, ‘Hoden’
6. Offerings Hall, ‘Haiden’
7. Ema Plaques and Paper Cranes
8. Omikuji
9. The Beginning of the Hike
   • Buying a Torii Gate
10. Okusha Hohaisho
11. The Inner Shrine
    • Inari Foxes
    • Fox Emas
    • Mini Torri Gate Emas
    • Omokaru Ishi
12. Kumatakasha
13. Headquarters of the Inari Shrines
14. Bamboo Forest
15. Fushimishinpo Shrine
    • Shrine of the Mountain Hawk-Eagle
16. Yotsu-tsuji
17. Kami-no-Yashiro shrine
    • End of the Hike
    • Tsujiura senbei

Access

To get to the shrine, you can take the JR Nara Line to Inari Station, a short 7-minute ride from Kyoto Station only costs 140 yen. When you arrive at the station, you immediately notice the vermillion painted columns all over the platform, to replicate the torii gates at the shrine so you’ll know you’re in the right place.

Walking over from the station and looking up at the mountain, it doesn’t seem like such a difficult hike, but the trek will take you at least 2-3 hours. Even more, if you’re like me and stop along the way to study every shrine and take a million pictures.

History

To understand the significance this place, we must first understand a little bit about Shinto Shrines in general. A Shinto shrine is places of worship for Shintoist. It is also where the kami (Shinto gods) dwell. Inside these shrines are stored objects of worship for the kami. Since different gods have influence over specific parts of life, people will often go to a certain shrine to pray for good fortune in the area of expertise for that kami. These include childbirth, marriage, health and getting good grades at school.

The Inari Kami

The Inari Kami, the god worshipped throughout the entire mountain and subsequent shrines, is the patron of businesses, merchants and manufacturers. For as long as there have been temples for the Inari Kami, people have come here to pray for success in their corporate endeavours.

Torii Gates

Early on after the temple’s construction, worshippers would donate money to ensure their wishes were granted by getting good favour with the kami. To demonstrate their donations, a torii gate would be built with their name inscribed on it. Soon, hundreds of people wanted the same good fortune and came to this now infamous shrine to buy their own torii gates, creating the tunnel of torii gates you see today. Some say there are over 10,000 gates along the path but others claim that the number is well over 30,000.

The Power of Vermilion

Many people wonder why the gates and temple are painted that very particular shade of vermilion. This colour is called shuiro in Japanese and is meant to represent the colour of the sun. The goddess Amaterasu, goddess of the sun, is the most important god in Shintoism and her name literally means shining in heaven. Reflecting elements of her in the architecture of these shines brings them closer to heaven itself.

The Main Hall, ‘Hoden’

The main shrine sits at the base of the mountain. Originally built on Inariyama hill in 711, it was moved to the base of the hill later one in 816 to protect it from earthquakes. The honden or main hall was built in 1499. It’s golden ornaments glitter like sunshine against the bright red painted structure. The main temple is the location of the shrines most precious and sacred objects. Dragon fountains beside the temple are provided so visitor can wash their hands and cleanse themselves before stepping into the sacred space.

Offerings Hall, ‘Haiden’

Opposite the Hoden, is the Haiden or Offerings Hall. Here, visitors can come and make their prayers and offerings. You’ll see hundreds of sacks of rice, sake, wine, beer and other consumer products. The owners of the companies who produce these items will often make a financial donation but also leave their products on display as a means of demonstrating their donation. Free promotion too for people will have respect for corporations who support their chosen Kami.

Ema Plaques and Paper Cranes

In the main shrine, you’ll see ema plaques with wishes written all over them. Alongside the hanging emas are hundreds and thousands of paper cranes. Paper cranes in Japan have a very powerful significance. A little girl whose parents were killed in the bombing of Hiroshima channelled her pain into the creation of these tiny, paper works of art.

They were a symbol of her pain and giving them to the temple was an act of turning in her grief and stepping away from her suffering. These bright and colourful cranes are a symbol of people letting go of their grief and moving forward, to happier times.

Omikuji

In the shrine, you’ll also come across places to buy Omikuji. These are paper fortunes with predictions for your life written on them. But be warned, not all of them are good fortunes. If you receive a bad fortune, to counteract it, simply tie it onto the wire bands beside the shrine. This way, you leave the fortune behind.

The Beginning of the Hike

After wandering around the lower level temple, we headed for the stairs to begin our climb to the top! At the back of the main shrine, you come upon two rows, side by side, of Senbon Torii (thousands of torii gates). No matter which path you take, they both will lead you to the inner shine in the middle of the mountain.

There are said to over 10,000 torii gates lining the path, which creates a tunnel effect which you pass through. There are so many gates at some points that it completely obscures the forest around you. From the map, the trek didn’t look so hard, but as we watched that tiny red point move only slightly after almost half an hour of climbing, we knew this was no walk in the park.

Buying a Torii Gate

The smaller torii gates cost about 400,000 yen, and the larger ones can cost up to 1 million yen! They last about five years up here in the wilderness before they begin to deteriorate and need to be repainted or replaced. You’ll see lots of “wet paint” signs along the path as there is always a dozen or so in the process of being repaired.

When you first enter either side of the Torii gate trail, you’ll see it is crammed with tourists. The effect of the gates might seem a little distorted when full of people but as you continue to walk, more and more people drop off, having had their fill, and suddenly you’ll find yourself being the only one in these fields of bright orange wood.

Okusha Hohaisho

The first station you’ll come to is Okusha Hohaisho, the inner shrine of Fushimi Inari Taisha. This shrine was originally built for pilgrims who came and prayed to the mountain deities. The shrine was built in 1500 and has remained steadfastly the same throughout the years.

The Inner Shrine

The inner shrine was dedicated to the god of rice and sake by the Hata clan in the 8th century. Shintoists who come here to worship always follow a few rituals as they pray. The first thing they do is throw a coin into a box in front of the shrine and ring one of the suzu bells outside. These bells are thought to call the kami and let them know you’re here. They are also believed to repel evil and imbue positive energy.

Next, visitors will bow twice, quietly making their prayer to the kami, clap their hands twice and then bow deeply once more. Watching the deep concentration and devotion in their faces as made their prayers was a powerful and incredible thing to witness.

Inari Foxes

Throughout the shrine and across the pathways, you begin to spot hundreds of stone foxes. Foxes are scared to the Japanese. They were thought to be messengers for the Inari, and they are the representatives of the gods here on earth. Often you’ll see these foxes with different objects in their mouth. Each one of these items represents something significant for the gods. Keys represent the ability these foxes have to unlock a rice granary and bring forth sustenance. A scroll is meant to say the Fox is here to bring the recipient wisdom. A bamboo plant means a plentiful harvest and an orb symbolises spiritual power.

Fox Emas

In the inner shrine, you’ll see ema in the shape of foxes where visitors can write their wishes and draw a face onto the ema, making it all the more personal. Each one of the faces a unique representation of the wish maker.

Mini Torri Gate Emas

There are also miniature torii gate emas that you can buy to write your prayers on. You might not have 40,000 yen, but you can still have a torii gate with your name on it. Dan ended up buying a green copper bell up here from a priest who blessed it with good luck and told him to ring it anytime he wanted to ask the gods for a favour.

Omokaru Ishi

Beside the inner shrine, you’ll also fine the Omokaru Ishi. This is the site of the “light heavy stones”. Here, you place a coin in the box, make a wish and then pick up a stone from the pile. If it’s lighter than you thought it would be, your wish will be granted.

Kumatakasha

After visiting the Omokaru-Ishi, you can continue on the pathway up the hill or take a short detour off the path to visit some of the sub-shrines located just to the south of Kumatakasha. The Kumatakasha is where you can get a great view of the tunnel of torii gates from outside of it. From afar you can more greatly appreciate how densely packed those gates really are.

Headquarters of the Inari Shrines

The temple you’ll see right off this path is a very sweet little temple in the middle of a private bamboo forest. This site is the headquarters of the Inari shrines across Japan. Every Inari shrine from across Japan is represented here via a small sub-shrine. Some no bigger than an apple basket. You could spend hours here looking at all the different sculptures and miniature shrines. There are said to be over 10,000 here, but we didn’t come close to spotting that many.

The large shrine here is marked with a shimenawa which is a straw rope with white zigzag paper strips along the top to marks the boundary between the physical realm and the sacred realm. There was a very kind priest in the shop beside the temple who tried to help explain what the colourful kimonos along the perimeter of the shrine were. Each one was a wish and with a small donation to the shrine, we decided to make one was well. Seeing as our next step in our life was to hopefully get our own house, we wished for that. You were supposed to make the wish in elements of threes, so we went with, “health, happiness and home.”

Bamboo Forest

After walking through the shrine garden, we headed out the back to explore the bamboo forest. There were no signs, or directions and not a soul had ventured in with us. Leaving a super crowded area and heading into an empty one certainly felt like we were breaking in somewhere we weren’t supposed to be. We had visited the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove the day before and fought through hundreds of the people to view the forest. Here, we had our own private viewing garden. The bamboo might not have been as lush and tall but it was equally as beautiful.

Fushimishinpo Shrine

Hidden at the back of the forest is Fushimishinpo Shrine. Beside this shrine are hundreds of O-Tsuka, stone monuments. These may look like tombstones, but they are a monument donated by Shintoists. People who believe in Inari gods will give them names, place the names of the stone monuments and leave them in places like these shrines.

You come down a few steps to find a covered set of small shops and a few restaurants. Because these shops are only open during the busiest months, they were all closed when we arrived. These restaurants feature locals street food like fried tofu, said to be a favourite food of foxes. We peeked inside a few of the shops and were surprised to find that some of the doors were left open. We got a little spooked out and hurriedly, headed back to where we could hear more than just the sound of our own voices.

Shrine of the Mountain Hawk-Eagle

As you continue to hike up the path, you come across a large lake beside the Kumataka-sha shrine. This is the Shrine of the Mountain Hawk-Eagle. Along the lake, above the shrine, there are a few small tea shops (which again were closed while we visited) but there are also a few vending machines here where you could buy various overpriced bottles of water, soda or coffee. Legend has it that if you face the lake and clap your hands, you will hear an echo come back to you. Listen carefully for which direction the echo returns as it says that if you follow in that direction, it will lead you to someone who has lost their way.

Yotsu-tsuji

After the lake, you’ll see the pathways become almost empty. People have all but given up on the journey and yet here you’re barely halfway up. Before the first lookout point, I ran into a man feeding cats at the top of the hill. As he brought out the food, dozens of cats emerged from the forest. It was a haunting image to see when you’re walking through this forest all alone. At about the halfway mark along the path, you’ll come upon Yotsu-tsuji. This small shrine has an incredible view of Kyoto below and the trail of torii gates.

Kami-no-Yashiro shrine

At the summit of Inariyama Mountain, you’ll finally come to the Kami-no-Yashiro shrine, 233 meters above sea level. Up at the top shrine, you’ll find omikuji fortunes which are notorious for being extremely accurate – for some people, it is the entire reason they make the hike up to the summit.

The walk back down the hill is a much easier journey. You can choose to descend on the opposite side you came up so you have some different things to look at.

End of the Hike

Dusk was settling on the mountain, and our stomachs were grumbling. At night, many of the pathways are lit up, and the tourists have significantly dwindled. We wish we could have stayed longer and see the trail when it is all aglow but we were exhausted from our journey and decided to head home.

As we left, we ran into a few women in their finest kimonos leaving the temple. It was magic hour and seeing these alluring dresses as the sun began to set was one of that one-of-a-kind moments.

Tsujiura senbei

As you leave the shrine and head back to the station, you pass some sweet shops. The most famous treat being sold here is the tsujiura senbei, a fortune cookie from the 19th century.Snack carts sold a myriad of street food, infusing the entire lane with sweet and savory smells. Roasted dango was another popular dish found all over the streets here. It was being uniquely prepared as the dango rested around hot coals in the centre of an urn where they are slowly turned to give them an even char.

Fushimi Inari-taisha is truly one of the man-made wonders of the world. Finding time to come here and make the entire journey is highly recommended. The best time to come is early in the morning or as the sun sets at night since the crowds are the lowest and the light is stunning. Although we did find that even with heavy crowds, the further you get up the mountain the less and less people there are around you. So put in the effort and you’ll be rewarded with the most incredible sites.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari Shrine first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.