Although you can simply wander the city to discover your own favourite displays, I’ve put together a little walking tour of all the best places to check out in Old Montreal. This self-guided walking tour will take you past some of the most important historical buildings in Old Montreal. So we’ve added in some interesting information about this bygone part of the city. Come with us now on our Christmas Lights Trail of Old Montreal!

McGill Street

At the corner of Victoria Square is where McGill Streets begins and heads down into the Old Town of Montreal. McGill Street is famously known as “the link between the strategic sectors of the Old Port, Old Montreal, and the Quartier international.” It is one of the most historical and, therefore, illustrious streets in Montreal. You can find such important buildings as the Canadian National Railway Company, Canadian Coast Guard, Canada Border Services Agency and a slew of popular restaurants all along this stretch of road.

During the winter season, the streets and individual buildings are all lit up for the holidays. The street is lined with these fantastic illuminated trees with a giant ball of lights bursting from the top! Enormous wreaths hang inside windows. And you can almost always see some of the most fanciful garlands made from real fir trees suspended from the doorways. The intoxicating smell drifts into your nose as you explore.

Maison Pepin

Continue along McGill Street until you reach Saint-Paul Street West. Turn left along the street until you read the famous Maison Pepin. During the wintertime, the alleyway entrance into Maison Pepin’s is transformed into their “Marché de Noël.” The old brick alley looks like something out of Harry Potter! As if you stepped into Diagon Alley when it’s all decorated for Christmas. Wreaths and Christmas tree hangs along the walls and when freshly fallen snow graces you with its presence the entire place is like a painting. Every year the team that decorated the alley brings a new element of wonder and this year their use of dried flowers is absolutely enchanting. And the entire scene is lit with a series of lights above casting down an ethereal glow on the alley.

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Miracle on Place d’Youville

Continue shortly down Saint-Paul Street West and take a short detour towards Rue Saint Pierre to the corner of Place d’Youville. Hidden away, inside the Parlement Bar is an absolute Christmas Wonderland. Miracle Bar is like Christmas turned up to eleven. From the floor to the ceiling, Christmas wrapping paper covers the entirety of the space. Lights twinkle from every corner, hundreds of stockings hang from the top, and of course, Christmas music blares throughout the bar. It has the warmest, most friendly atmosphere, like walking into a warm hug. When I was in town, I was alone for a portion of the trip, and I didn’t feel alone in here for a second. Everyone was in the spirit of Christmas and happy to make new friends.

There are a myriad of Christmas-themed drinks on offer, as well as beer, cider and yes, even non-alcoholic drinks as well! They all come in a delightful array of Christmas drinkware, and if you love what you’re served in, you can even buy a mug or cup to bring home!

Place Royal

Continue along old Place d’Youville to Place Royal. Place Royale has always been an important meeting place for the people of Montreal. In the early 19th century, this was where you could have found the old marketplace. Today, the square is dominated by the Old Customs House. This is an archaeological site, which is a part of the Pointe-à-Callière museum. At Christmas time, the square is filled with a series of real Christmas trees. A large illuminated tree is positioned in the centre, with a life-sized sleigh nearby for fantastic photo ops!

Rue Saint Paul

Walking up Place Royal Street towards Saint Paul street, you can continue along this long road. Saint-Laurent Boulevard divides the street where Saint Paul Street becomes Rue Saint Paul. This is because Saint-Laurent Boulevard was once the dividing line between the English part of town and the French quarter. Saint-Paul is Montreal’s oldest street and for many years served as its main thoroughfare. It was established in 1672 and named after Paul de Chomedey de Maisonneuve, founder of Montreal. His residence was located on this street and built-in 1650. Rue Saint-Paul follows the path of the old fort which once bordered the area.

During Christmas, Saint-Paul street is perhaps the most enchanting. Massive Christmas light installations are put up on either side of the street. Creating almost a halo of light above the road. The stores on either side of the street are filled to bursting with Christmas spirit. It seems like every boutique has its own unique approach to Christmas decor and peeking your head inside is a wonderful way to warm up.

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Rue Saint Vincent / Rue Saint Anne

As we continue towards Place Jacques-Cartier, make a quick detour up Rue Saint Vincent. The street was originally built on the land owned by Jean-Vincent Philippe de Hautmesnil. Jean-Vincent was a businessman and wealthy fur trader. His uncle, the Sulpician Gabriel Souart, was the first parish priest of Montreal. The street gets its name from the patron saint of Jean-Vincent Philippe de Hautmesnil.

Just a few feet along Rue Saint Vincent is the incredible alleyway Rue Saint Anne. This hidden passageway is framed by a series of old wooden branches in platers covered in twinkle lights. And as you enter the alley, you pass under a monumental archway also wrapped in lights. Creating this tunnel all aglow!

Place Jacques-Cartier

At the end of the Rue Saint-Vincent, you’ll pop out right in the middle of Place Jacques-Cartier. The square was originally built in 1723 as the royal gardens belonging to the Château Vaudreuil. The Château Vaudreuil was made for Philippe de Rigaud, Marquis de Vaudreuil but was burned down in 1803. After the destruction, the city transformed the space into a public square, known then as New Market Place.

In 1809, a large column was installed and named ‘Nelson’s Column.’ But in 1847, it was renamed in honour of Jacques Cartier, the explorer who claimed Canada for France in 1535. Today it stands as the oldest public monument in Montreal. During the Christmas season, the street is lined with lighted trees. At the top of the square is a huge light art installation. Made in the shape of large bare trees with branches resembling reindeer antlers.

Bonsecours Market

Head back down to the Rue Saint Paul-East and continue walking until you reach the Bonsecours Market. Bonsecours Market is a two-story domed public market first built in 1844. And for more than 100 years, it was the main public market in Montreal. Today, it’s home to boutique shops popular with tourists. During the Christmas season, the building’s large Doric columns are covered in Christmas lights. Highlighting the beautiful architecture of the old building.

Rue de la Commune

Take a short walk towards the water, out to Rue de la Commune. Rue de la Commune follows the original shore of the Saint Lawrence River. The buildings along the north side of the road are former commercial buildings.

From this point, you have a beautiful view along the tree line Rue de la Commune and the accompanying Christmas lights. You can also see the beautiful Old Port to the north and towering La Grande Roue de Montréal Ferris Wheel, which lights up the sky.

View of Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel

After getting a good look at the Port, head back up towards Rue Notre Dame Est. Make a stop at the top of the street, where you have an incredible view of Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel. The Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel is one of the oldest churches in Montreal. Built in 1771 over the ruins of an earlier chapel. The church is always decorated and lit up for Christmas. With the Ferris wheel spinning overhead, this spot makes for the perfect photo opportunity.

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Vauquelin Place

Looping back towards where we started, walk along Rue Notre Dame Est to Vauquelin Place beside the old Montreal City Hall. The small square is home to the old Montreal Great Christmas tree! It is one of the most instagrammable spots in the city during the Christmas season. The square is named after captain Vauquelin who was a distinguished French naval office. A statue of the captain still dominates the square behind the fountain where the Christmas tree is located.

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Montreal Courthouse

Further down the street, you’ll come up the Montreal Courthouse. The brutalist style of architecture really stands out among the old town neo-gothic buildings. In front of the courthouse every year, they put up a large white illuminated Christmas tree. While it is just one lone Christmas tree, the way the light reflects off the glass windows of the building is really spectacular.

Places d’Armes

At the intersection of Rue Notre Dame-West and St. Sulpice Street, we find the Places d’Armes. Place d’Armes is a large public square centred around some of the most famous buildings in the city. This includes the great Notre-Dame Basilica, Saint-Sulpice Seminary, New York Life Building, Aldred Building and Bank of Montreal head office.

Originally the public square was called ‘Place de la Fabrique‘ when it was first developed in 1693, at the request of the Sulpicians. It was later renamed Place d’Armes in 1721 when it became the stage for various military events. From 1781 to 1813, it was used as a hay and wood market. Eventually, in 1836 it was redeveloped as a Victorian garden. For more than a hundred years, the square fell out of favour and eventually fell into disrepair. It wasn’t until 2009 that the city decided to renovate it at a whopping cost of $15.5 million!

During the holiday season, the square is one of the most popular places to come to see the Christmas lights. Massive illuminated stars are set up all around the square. They look like shooting stars that have fallen to earth. As you stand there the stars change colour and transform the look of the square. Just across from the square, the Banque Nationale also features a large window display on their first floor. The trio of Christmas trees and blue twinkling lights delight all the visitors passing by.

Parc Saint-Jean

Continuing along Rue Notre Dame-West, you’ll see some different lighting designs dedicated to this area of town. Along this street, the lampposts are hung with sprays of illuminated tree branches and large brightly glowing snowflakes twinkle and shine.

At the intersection of Rue Notre Dame-West and Rue Saint-Jean is a small parkette named Parc Saint-Jean. This park is decorated with the most delightful Christmas lights. It features a large illuminated arch that makes for one of the best Instagram spots in the town. And best of all, this park is pretty hidden away and usually a little very peaceful. The rest of the park is dotted with giant twinkling snowflakes, randomly dispersed all over the grounds.

This brings us to the end of our tour of Montreal Old Town’s Christmas Lights. If you are interested in continuing your tour of Montreal Christmas Lights, head on over to our blog post on Downtown Montreal’s Best Christmas Lights! Let me know in the comments where your favourite displays are in Montreal or what you’re most looking forward to seeing.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of Old Montreal’s Best Christmas Lights first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

I couldn’t help but wonder why these tiny fishing villages were given such brightly painted exteriors. And yet where I live, and in many big cities around the world, having a brightly painted house would be considered an eyesore! Or at the very least something totally out of the ordinary. I ADORED touring these vibrant Newfoundland houses. I came back home wishing I had the guts to ask my neighbours what they’d think about painting my house teal, golden yellow or best of all, bright red!

Table Of Contents

1. Red Ochre, the Original House Paint
2. Why Are The Houses so Colourful?!
   • Legends and Rumors
3. Heritage Newfoundland Paints
4. Where are the Best Places to see Colours Towns in Newfoundland?
   • #1 St John's
   • #2 Quidi Vidi
   • #3 Bonavista
   • #4 Petty Harbour
   • #5 Twillingate
   • #6 Brigus
   • #7 Dildo
   • #8 Cavendish
   • #9 Change Islands
   • #10 Saint-Pierre and Miquelon

Red Ochre, the Original House Paint

Originally most of the Newfoundland houses were painted in a rich, ochre paint. And it could be made right at home. Only in the early 20th century did mass-produced paints become available. Ochre is a natural clay pigment composed of powdered hematite or iron ore. The colours of the ochre can range from yellow to deep orange or brown. The name “ochre” is from the Greek meaning “pale yellow.” In ancient Greece, ochre clay was very pale due to its mineral make-up. But clay ochre can be found all over Newfoundland as well! Primarily in Fortune Harbour and Ochre Pit Cove.

To make their own paint, fishermen would mix the ochre with fish oil, seal oil and linseed oil. This no doubt stinky mixture would then be applied to the house. Evidence of ochre paint being used on Newfoundland houses dates back to 1610. They discovered its use on buildings along with Cupids Cove Plantation who still have the original paint. Proving its efficacy in these weather conditions.

Why Are The Houses so Colourful?!

There are several theories as to why fishing villages and seaside towns in Newfoundland have such brightly painted houses. The most popular theory is that when the fishermen came home on dark grey and foggy mornings, it was almost impossible to spot their house along the shore. But when they painted their homes or fishing huts with bright colours, it made it easier to spot when coming ashore.

Legends and Rumors

Another theory is that regular house paint would show fading faster in the harsh maritime climate. Normal paint would peel from the salty sea air and the winds and snow would fade the paint away. In many other places around the world where the weather is this harsh, they would have simply used bricks or stone to build their homes. But in Newfoundland, this kind of material was very expensive. Most fishermen made meagre wages and therefore could only afford a wooden house.

But then they discovered they could use the same paint they used on their ships to paint their homes. The ship’s paint was much stronger and could withstand the conditions. Ships’ paint came in brilliant colours so that other boats could see the vessels when on the water. Especially when you were out on foggy or stormy seas, being visible was of the utmost importance. This was also a money-saving technique as the ship’s leftover paint was free! Nothing went to waste.

Other people say that the luminous coloured houses are meant to bring joy to people’s faces when they see them along the hills. When you live in a province where the weather is almost always either windy, rainy or snowy, it’s important to brighten things up where you can!

Whatever the reason, it’s fantastic to see this tradition continuing even today! In fact, in towns like St. John’s, some of the old Victorian homes are still the very same colour as they were initially painted. Even after hundreds of years ago. It is an unwritten rule that if you own one of these historic homes you must keep it painted in a traditional colour. To help retain the patchwork quilt which makes up the colourful streets.

Heritage Newfoundland Paints

The importance of the multi-coloured houses is such that there is even a Historic Colours of Newfoundland paint collection. One day, the owner of Templeton’s paint shop, whose store has been open in St. John’s since 1863, found a collection of decades-old paint chips hidden away in the basement. This was a treasure trove of history. He worked with the Heritage Newfoundland council to get the colours developed as an exclusive paint line. The paints were all given with the most charming names. Mussels in the Corner, Little Heart’s Ease, Christmas Syrup, Nanny-Goat, May Bush Blue and Sea Spray Green are just a few of my favourites.

The names were carefully selected to evoke the unique aspects that make Newfoundland so special. The deep golden yellow paint named “Dory Buff” was used on little boats for years. It was the best colour to paint the smaller boats to ensure they remained visible even in rough conditions. A mossy green paint called “Ferryland Downs” is named after the Colony of Avalon and the mossy excavation site located nearby.

Looking at all these paint colours, you’ll notice there are “traditional” hues and “Jelly Bean Pallette.” In the 1960s, paint could be tinted from its original colours. This resulted in brighter, more pastel hues which have become the iconic colour palette in St. John’s Jellybean Row. There is a slight controversy about these colours as they aren’t as traditional as the older ones. Still, there is no escaping their photographic popularity.

Where are the Best Places to see Colours Towns in Newfoundland?

#1 St John’s

Jellybean Row is the name affectionately given to the rows and rows of brightly coloured townhouses that line the steep streets of St. John’s. One of the best parts of visiting St. John’s is admiring the fantastic eras of different architecture. St. John’s was the first fishing outpost for European fishermen. Therefore the original buildings in St. John’s were made for the working fishermen. These consisted of simple shreds, storage shacks, wooden piers and rudimentary homes for the fishermen.

St. John’s is often compared to San Francisco due to the steep incline of the street compounded with the brightly coloured Victorian homes. But it’s not just the colours you need to admire, but also the styles, accents and ornamentations. So many houses have beautiful stained glass windows sparkling against the sunlight as you pass by. Although the name is “Jellybean Row” the multicoloured house can be found all over the city. They are not just found in one dedicated “row.” But if you’re looking for the best place to explore to see the most extensive collection of colourful houses, then head over to the historic Georgetown neighbourhood. Here you can wander to your heart’s content and see street after street of rainbow-hued houses.

#2 Quidi Vidi

Just 10 minutes by car from the centre of St. John’s is the small fishing village of Quidi Vidi. Quidi Vidi was time and time again the most recommended destination when I told people I was visiting Newfoundland. Quidi Vidi was established around 1600 when fishermen arrived each Spring to fish for the cod rich in this area. Most of them would depart back to Europe come the fall in anticipation of Newfoundland’s frigid winters. But after a few years, there was the need to have a few fishermen stay the winter. They would take care of sourcing timber and fuel for the following Spring when the other fishermen returned. Small fishing huts were built to house these men, and eventually, they started to call the area home. They expanded from huts to houses and created their own little community.

Despite being just 10 minutes from St. John’s, Quidi Vidi has preserved a quaint and peaceful atmosphere. There is very little parking which means they can better control the number of people in the village. The fishing hunts have grown slightly over the years, but they retain the brightly painted historic colours that make this place so charming.

#3 Bonavista

Bonavista is most famous being the spot where Italian explorer John Cabot (Giovanni Caboto) first stepped foot. He arrived here in June 1497. When he spotted land from his ship, he was reported to cry out, “O Buon Vista!” In Italian, this means “Oh, Happy Sight!” And what a sight to see is Bonavista even today. Although Cabot saw the land without the beautiful houses that now cover the landscape, the beauty of this place is uncomparable. The town of Bonavista is one of the oldest villages, not only in Newfoundland but in North America! The cape was developed in the 1500s after the arrival of Cabot. The area around Bonavista was rich in fish and seals. It soon became of the most important towns in Newfoundland.

They built up the village along the rocky mantle, not along the shore. Since the seas are so rough here, the water would frequently wash houses along the coast away. Building the town along the elevated cape meant there was more space to expand and build large homes. Most of these homes were built by English settlers who were fish merchants. Eventually, they would build a break wall to prevent flooding and houses soon crept down the hillside. Today the city is known as being one of the dynamic and vibrant communities in Newfoundland.

#4 Petty Harbour

Just 16 minutes from St. John’s, you can escape the big city and find yourself in the centre of this small, picturesque fishing village. Petty Harbour is home to only 970 people who live here year-round. The first settlers established a fishing village here in the 1600s. And while a few modern conveniences pop up, so many elements of this village feel like stepping back in time.

Walking along the dock, you can still see the original fishing nets and wooden crab traps fishermen still use today. Scenic rolling green hills are the backdrop to the town’s wonderfully colourful houses. I loved how the houses almost look right down on the harbour below. It’s just such a charming part of the province.

#5 Twillingate

Located on the northeast corner of Newfoundland, Twillingate is one of the most remote yet incredible places to visit. It is best known as the spot to view whales, dolphins and harp seals throughout the year. But most iconic of all are the icebergs that pass by the town. You can literally watch the bergs float by as you walk along the rugged coastline. The reason the icebergs pass this way is because of the ocean corridor which runs down from Greenland, called “Iceberg Alley.”

During the 1800s, Twillingate was one of the busiest seaports in all of northern Newfoundland. It was bursting with ships coming into the post from all over the world. The ships would bring in supplies and carry away freshly caught cod. But today, it is just a quiet fishing village. It is only during the early summer months when the icebergs come to call that visitor’s flood into town. Throughout the rest of the year, this sleepy fishing village is the perfect place to come to get away from it all! Whenever you arrive, you can admire the quaint and colourful houses which cover the shores. And creep up over the coastline.

#6 Brigus

Brigus is a small fishing community located in Conception Bay, less than an hour from St. John’s. The town is known as a picture-perfect photographer’s paradise. Say that three times fast! Over the years, many an “Arctic Heroe” called this village home. The narrow lanes and winding streets are so reminiscent of English, Irish, and Welsh villages. The styles of the homes are also reflective of their immigrant owners. So many of the homes along their central streets have been preserved for the ages. They each retain a superb historic charm and, of course, those iconic brightly coloured exteriors. You can see the great 200-year-old church whose bright green roof always makes an appearance as you first drive into town. Plus peruse the site of the old Vindicator newspaper office and the old Orange Lodge built in 1860!

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#7 Dildo

Perhaps no surprise to anyone; it is the odd name of this town that draws people to its shores. But what they find when they arrive in ‘Dildo‘ is one of the most delightful fishing villages! Complete with some of the most amazingly painted boats and houses dotted along the coast. The original meaning of the word “Dildo” referred to the phallus-shaped pin stuck in the edging of a rowboat. This part acts as a pivot for the oar, a key component! Although many of us might think of something much different, this is the real meaning which inspired the naming of the town.

The town really rose to fame when the talk show host Jimmy Kimmel featured it on his television show. His team even made a trip out to Newfoundland in 2019 when Jimmy was named honorary mayor. After the town was touched by Hollywood, it was even given its own Hollywood-style sign. Jimmy Kimmel donated the sign to the community, and today it sits on the hillside overlooking this adorable town. And while the Jimmy Kimmel show might have put it on the map, it’s the splashy houses and lovable people who make it such a great place to explore. One of the greatest places to see and stay is at the historic George House Heritage B & B. This amazing house is painted such stunning colours, framed against the backdrop of the hillside looking over all of Dildo.

#8 Cavendish

Located an hour and a half from St. John’s are three of the most famous sheds in all of Canada. The three beach huts are painted in alternating red, yellow, and blue colours. They sit alone out near the shore, facing Cavendish Bay. While it might seem like a long way to go, Cavendish is just 20 minutes up the road from our previous stop in Dildo. These huts have been portrayed on postcards, paintings and more despite being so off-the-beaten-path. The sheds can be found just off Trinity Road South 80 along Beach Road.

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#9 Change Islands

The Change Islands are located between Notre Dame Bay and the Labrador Sea. Far off on the northeast coast of the island of Newfoundland. To get here, you must take a ferry from the mainland over to the islands. But it’s a short hour-long commute. Although there are only 300 permanent residents, they have kept the beauty and the historic nature of this community alive over the years. The town was established in the early 1700s by European settlers. But it wasn’t until the 1900s when the village would become a hub for schooner fleets working the Labrador fishery.

This influx of boats and fishermen resulted in the development of the brightly coloured houses you see along the coast today. As we mentioned previously, ochre was the original colour of the fishing hunt in Newfoundland. And here on the change islands, you’ll find many original structures painted in that historic colour!

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#10 Saint-Pierre and Miquelon

Ok, this last one is perhaps the most exciting but “technically” not a part of Newfoundland. Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is just an hour south of Newfoundland by ferry in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The French commune is considered a part of Europe and not even a part of Canada! But as it’s just off the coast of Newfoundland many visitors make this journey as a part of their maritime adventure. Saint-Pierre and Miquelon even use the euro despite being just a hop, skip and jump from the mainland of Newfoundland. The small island has had a violent history with the French and English settlers. Each side waging war over the years for control over the land. Finally, in 1816 the French took control, and it would remain a French colony ever since.

But despite all this violence, or perhaps in spite of it, the houses on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are some of the most vibrant in all of Newfoundland. It’s like looking at a paint store chip wall with splotches of colours dotted the hillsides. When you are on such a remote island in the middle of the winter, these colourful houses are just what you need to bring in a warm smile to your face.

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I hope these brightly coloured houses and villages of Newfoundland inspire you to make a trip out to this fantastic part of Canada. And maybe when you come home, you’ll be motivated to give your own home a new coat of paint!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Newfoundland’s 10 Most Colourful & Beautiful Places to Visit first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.