Table Of Contents

1. When to Visit
2. History
3. Where to Park
4. Old Jerome Cemetery
5. Ghost City Inn
6. House of Joy
7. Jerome's Sliding Jail
8. Cuban Queen Bordello 
9. Husband's Alley
10. Liberty Theatre & Gifts
11. Connor Hotel
12. The Spirit Room
13. Bartlett Hotel
14. Jerome Park
15. Mile High Inn
16. First Episcopal Church
17. The Haunted Hamburger
18. Surgeon's House
19. The Old Company Clinic
20. Asylum Restaurant
21. The Grand Hotel
22. United Verde Mine

When to Visit

Obviously, since this is a ghost tour, the best time for it is at dusk as it day turns to night. But even during the daytime, the abandoned streets and buildings still have an ominous feeling. Three of the locations on this tour are also hotels so for those brave enough to stay overnight, you’re in for an extra treat. Overnight stays allow you to experience the town without as many tourists, and the silence allows for keener ears and eyes to spot those spectres.

History

Jerome was founded in the late 19th century on Cleopatra Hill. It overlooks the scenic Verde Valley, which is 5,000 feet above sea level. During its heyday, it was home to more than 15,000 people. During the first world war, the price of copper soared, and American citizens came here in droves to mine the rich copper quarries that were abundant in this area of the west. Jerome was dubbed the “Wickedest Town in the West” by the New York Sun newspaper in 1903. It had a reputation for rampant gambling, an abundance of alcohol consumption, drug abuse, gunfights and other mayhem. With all of that debauchery came a series of unfortunate deaths, each one relating to the abandon that was felt throughout the town. It was lawless and rarely were crimes investigated to the full extent of the law.

Over the years the town seemed to be cursed. Jerome was subject to numerous fires, earthquakes and other natural disasters. The population continued to decrease and the copper mines dried up. Eventually, it became a ghost town with little to no sustainable source of income. In the late ’60s, the Arizonian Tourism board saw Jerome’s untouched architectural and cultural history to be valuable for visitors. And in 1967 Jerome was established as a Historical Landmark.

State Park and National Mine Museum

In the late 2000s, art galleries and trendy restaurants started popping up to drive more people into the town. The local State Park and National Mine Museum were established to help preserve the history of mining in this village and to educate travelling visitors on the history of Jerome. But what people come to Jerome for these days, are the ghosts! Even if you don’t believe in these spectres, the dark history of the town’s past is a fascinating way to explore its decrepit streets and abandoned buildings.

United Verde Mines

The United Verde Mines in Jerome were a dangerous place. In 1922, the quality of ore they had been mining began to degrade, and they had to switch to open-pit mining. This resulted in multiple fires which plagued the operations. Often, there was no way to control the flames which burned the ore under the ground. These ever-burning fires resulted in dense smoke on the skyline of Jerome for months, a haunting sight to see. The recklessness of the mine owners was in their quest for power and wealth is thought to have cursed the town. Fire after fire, earthquakes, landslides and rampant diseases seem like something more than just chance.

Dynamite and Explosions

If the fires and dynamite explosions didn’t kill the miners, brawls and shootouts would. In its heyday, it is estimated that there were four murders a day in Jerome! Since these men were poor miners there was no money for a funeral and burial. So they were disposed of in the cities smelting furnaces, and the bone fragments from the corpses are literally now still in the foundation of the city itself. It’s a living tomb. Today, the ghosts of these fallen miners are thought to haunt the town, in search of their final resting place.

So many ghosts died in the fires which tore through the camp in the early days of Jerome. At that time, most of the buildings were made from timber, and once something caught fire, it spread rapidly. Being high up on the hill meant that the winds would pick up any bits of burning embers can carry them past where the initial blaze started. In 1898 one of the most massive fires pretty much levelled the entire town to ash and took with it many lives.

Where to Park

After visiting the cemetery, which is on the outskirts of the town, there is a parking lot for anyone on a day trip marked on the map where you can easily leave your car and then head over to the next spot on tour. If you’re staying overnight, almost all the hotels have dedicated parking.

Old Jerome Cemetery

We’ll start our tour on the outskirts of town. Before you even enter the ghost town, you’re immediately met with a sign of its darkened past. The old cemetery once housed over 400 graves and markers, but today almost nothing remains. Because the ground was so tough, most of the time, the earth wasn’t dug too deep to bury the bodies. This meant that animals, such as coyotes, were able to dig up the corpses and drag them from their “eternal” resting place out to the mountains where they were never recovered. Today, the last of the stones and markers are protected with iron fences to ensure they don’t slide right off the cliffside. From this place, you have a panoramic view of the United Verde Mining Operations and the towering Cleopatra hill which rises up above the city.

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Ghost City Inn

This charming red and white painted two storey bed and breakfast seem anything but nefarious. But like everything in Jerome, it’s not what it seems. The Ghost City Inn was initially built in 1885 by the Garcia family as a lodging house for the managers of the various mines. In 1930, a miner staying in the house had constructed a bootleg still in his room. The poorly made machine exploded, causing an enormous fire which engulfed the entire second floor. In the 1950s and 70s, the house went through multiple renovations. This was in an attempt to keep relevant after the closure of the mines.

It became an art gallery, funeral home, spiritual retreat and restaurant. In 1994, it went through its latest transformation into a bed and breakfast where brave visitors stay the night to see if they can spot a ghost. The hotel’s most popular room, the Cleopatra Hill room, a female spirt it thought to be seen roaming the halls. In the Verde View Room, there is a male spirit seen outside the halls spying through keyholes on those people inside. People have seen doors slam on their own and whispering voices in the hallways when no one is there. Perhaps these are the ghosts of the people who perished in the fire, searching for a way out.

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Ladies of the Night

The ghosts of these ‘ladies of the night’ are thought to roam these streets, searching for redemption. High-class escorts worked in brothers where they had madams who took care of their health and safety. But if you were one of the lower class working women, you worked in what was called “the cribs”. These women saw upwards of 30-80 men a night and exposed themselves to harsh conditions, illness and violence.

Dozens of women died either by the hands of jealous clients or passed away from sexually transmitted diseases they weren’t even aware of. One such woman, who is seen wandering the street, was named Sammie Dean. Sammie Dean was murdered on Tuesday July 7th 1931 inside ‘Lil’s place’, a brothel apartment off Hull Ave. Her killer is a mystery but suspects include the Mayors Son, or Deputies Son. She is reportedly spotted in windows along the street, continually looking for her killer.

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House of Joy

The House of Joy on Hull Avenue is now an eclectic shop, but it was once one of the most famous brothels in town. In front of this house, people have said they feel like they are being watched by eyes in the window, despite no one being home. Often you’ll hear footsteps behind you, only to turn and nothing is there. People have even been said to be able to smell old fashioned perfume wafting from nowhere.

This red and black painted bordello was owned by the famous Madam, Nora “Butter” Brown. She was the very first madam to open a brothel in Jerome and taught Madam Jennie everything she knew. Jennie (who we will learn about late) went on to become much more success than Brown herself but learned everything from good ol’ Nora. During one of the many Jerome fires, Nora ran to the fire department and begged them to save her house over all the others. She went so far as to offer all the firefighters free “business” if they managed to save her property. With that kinda incentive its no surprise to hear, her house was saved.

Jerome’s Sliding Jail

Continue walking along Hull Avenue, and as you climb, on your right, down the hill (pathway marked), you’ll find the famous Sliding Jail. As the miners continued to dig and disrupt the steep hillside, many buildings were lost to landslides. And this jail is one of the remaining examples of this phenomenon. In 1936, the earth gave way under the jail, and it literally slid down the hill. It originally was located 200 feet from here, upon the main street.

The concrete cell block literally fell right out of the tin and wood building it was contained within. One can only imagine if someone had been inside this cell or not when it made a run for it. The cell is now reinforced by a few new walls and an iron fence to attempts to keep people out. Spirits have been drawn to this site for years, perhaps ghosts of old prisoners, searching for somewhere familiar.

Cuban Queen Bordello 

Just up from the sliding jail, is the remains of the Cuban Queen Bordello. This building was finally torn down in 2017 as it had been left to rot and eventually collapsed on itself. The once swanky Bordello was the site of one of the town’s most unlucky couple. After drinks in the bordello, two men had a quarrel in the streets, and one had killed the other. The murdered man’s wife, now left with no income became a prostitute at the Cuban Queen Bordello. There she was also shot to death by an estranged lover. Perhaps the angry spirits of the murdered couple brought down the building itself, but no doubt they still roam the area. But at least they are together again in death.

Husband’s Alley

Husbands Alley is the small alley behind what is now the Nellie Blie building. It had a false store front with access down to the Cribs. The Cribs District or ‘Husband’s Alley’ by the locals, as this was where the majority of Jerome’s prostitutes and ladies of the night would set up shop. Miners rarely brought their families with them when they took a position at a mine, and this meant prostitution was rampant. Although prostitution was technically legal, police would look the other way, and the trade was second only to copper in terms of the money brought into Jerome. At one point over 100 prostitutes were working in town.

Brothels and Saloons

These brothels were once located right on the main street, but when Jerome attempted to become a more “family-friendly” town, these establishments were moved to this new area, away from the saloons on the main drag. This meant men could head down to the main street to drink and gamble, and then walk out the back door, to access Husband’s alley. Then they would head back into the saloon once they were finished their “business” and walk out the front of the bar without knowing anyone knowing any the wiser what they had been up to.

Liberty Theatre & Gifts

Turning up Jerome avenue, we come upon the old Liberty Theatre, which now also acts as a gift shop. This was Jerome’s first silent movie theatre. Although the theatre closed in 1929, you can still explore the space it once resided in, and ghosts don’t just head off because of renovations. To this day, the spirit of a former patron haunts the building. Immigrants often came to mining towns as that kind of labour didn’t require too much legal paperwork.

A German-born immigrant woman to the city had struck up an affair with another one of the town’s immigrants. The two had a fight, and the woman fled to the movie theatre to clear her mind. But the man followed her there. He waited until the music got louder and then he strangled her to death, her screams masked by the tune. Today, people have been said to still hear screams coming from the second floor where the theatre once was.

Connor Hotel

Built in 1898 by David Connor, the Connor Hotel is one of Jerome precious jewels of the past. Formerly this hotel was built with over twenty rooms on the second floor to house all the different travelling miners, businessmen and contractors coming from all over the west to cash in on the natural resources to be found here Verde Valley. Rooms only cost $1.00 but back in that day that was a king’s ransom and the Connor Hotel didn’t disappoint. There were a bar, card room and even billiard tables on the first floor. Everything inside the Connor Hotel felt luxurious. It was the top of the line for hotels in the West, know all over Arizona. Just like the Bartlett hotel down the street, the Connor hotel also suffered at the hands of the flames and burned down in 1898.

Because there was so little land that could be built upon and all the buildings downtown were built do close together once a fire started, it spread very quickly, and there was no stopping it. But unlike many other shop owners, Connor had purchased insurance and was able to start construction on his new hotel very quickly. He made some lavish improvements on the previous hotel, including making this one in brick (much more fireproof) and was up and running right away.

Trouble at the Hotel

But as the mines began to run dry and the travelling miners went back home, the hotel started to run out of money. And by 1931 the hotel had to close its doors, for what they thought would be the last time. It still tried to rent out its first floor to different shops to make some money but the second floor remained dormant. It wasn’t until the late 60s with the tourist boom that it was transformed into a hotel once more. After a considerable renovation to update the hotel to modern safety codes and health standards, the hotel is inviting travellers back through its doors to experience a piece of history.

The Connor Hotel is haunted by an unnamed male spirit who loves to play with and manipulate electronics. He loves to turn on and off radios, TVs, telephones, and computers. This man’s presence can be sensed with cold spots in an otherwise warm room, or sometimes the echo of his voice can be heard calling from down the dark and creaky hallways.

Ms. Marie Gallagher

Another famous incident at the hotel involved a woman named Ann Hopkins. Ann’s husband was having an affair with a local school teacher, Ms. Marie Gallagher. In a jealous rage, Ann bought carbolic acid and waited till Gallagher was coming to the hotel to meet her husband. Ann caught her in the lobby and threw the acid in her face. The school teacher, Ms. Marie Gallagher, was not killed in the acid attack, but Ann was sent to jail for about 6 years, and came back to Jerome, living for a time inside the Connor Hotel room #1. Today, her spirit returns to haunt the hotel.

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The Spirit Room

On the lower level of the Connor Hotel, you’ll find the Spirit Room. Be sure to stop in here for a drink along your journey as the desert heat can leave any traveller mighty thirsty. This famous ghost sighting stop is a must-see building along your tour. Many people have seen a mysterious woman in red who comes into the Spirit Room to quench her ever-present thirst. She is a bit of a flirt and is thought to caresses the fingers, faces and necks of visitors. Whispering sweet nothings in their ears. If you take photos inside the spirit room, look for a red smudge, as this is her telltale lipstick stain. The lady in red has also been known to crawl right into bed with male guests who she takes a particular liking to.

Bartlett Hotel

The original building built on this spot was once called the Grandview Hotel and was constructed in 1895. It was a dancehall, a dining room and a high-society social club. In 1898 a great fire broke out throughout the city, and the hotel was destroyed. The Bartlett Hotel was rebuilt in 1901, this time using bricks, hoping this would help withstand another fire. It was a lavish hotel. Each room was decorated in a different colour, making every guest feel uniquely special.

The New Jerome’s Times, the longest-running newspaper, ran its offices out of the Bartlett hotel for 20 years until it had to shut its doors due to poor circulation. But in the late 1940s, the building became unstable and eventually abandoned. Now, all that’s left of it is the framing. The Jerome Historical Society has set up wooden ghosts for tourists to throw pennies into. The money collected is raised for future repairs and hopefully more preservation efforts throughout the city. 

Jerome Park

Across from the Bartlett, the hotel is the old Jerome Park. I hesitate to call it a park; it’s little more than a rusted swing set and an empty patch of land. But this is where one of the many deadly shootouts in Jerome took place. Alcohol and boredom fueled the fires of many a miner’s heads and after one too many, feuds between men, often over the love of a woman, would get heated enough to be taken outside and ended in a bloody shoot out. People often walking the streets at night have heard the sound of gunshots, but the shooter is never found and often thought to be echoes of the past.

Mile High Inn

Beside the park is the infamous Mile High Inn. This establishment was once owned by a woman named Madam Jennie Bauters. She was the wealthiest woman in northern Arizona. Jennie arrived in Jerome when it was nothing more than tents and shacks. There was no real main street to be heard of. But what there were was men. The original building which became the Mile High Inn was first the Clinkscales Building. It was built in 1899 by an insurance adjuster from Los Angeles. It was many things over the years, including a mortuary, one of Jennie’s Brothels, then a Hardware store when Jennie left Jerome in 1903.

The brothel was exceptionally well furnished, with a large front reception room and interior bedrooms dripping with luxurious velvet. These were for the elite of Jerome and Jennie made a pretty penny from these extravagances. The “sinful” business flourished, but despite her seemingly perfect life, Jennie had her fair share of troubles. One of her best girls, Maggie Shults, was murdered in the house by a rejected suitor. He shot her multiple times and then turned the gun on himself on the second floor.

Jennie’s Murderer

But Jennie didn’t let one measly murderer get her down. No, her business was booming, and she was buying up more and more property on Jerome’s main street. Jennie was killed in the small mining town called Acme Gold Road. The town changed its name to just ‘Gold Road’ in 1906. She was seen running down the street in her nightgown barefooted pleading for her life. Clement, her lover, was a gambler, heavy drinker, and always asked her for money. She turned him down one night for money, and he got angry and killed her.

After he realized what he had done he shot himself in the chest. The he lay down next to her dead body and covered his face with his hat, ready to die. He survived, was arrested and taken to jail, and was hung for Jennie’s murder in 1907. She was buried in Kingman at the old Pioneer cemetery. But has been seen still returning to Jerome to visit her old haunts.

Today’s Mile High Inn

Today, the Mile High Inn is much as it was in the 1940s, although remodelled to become a restaurant and hotel. The Madame herself is known to be seen roaming the halls of her institution, looking after the girls as she would have done in life. Jennie is pretty particular about how her home is kept and has been seen throwing dishes if they are not put away correctly or leaving fingerprints on the bed frames as she attempts to clean them. Visitors have come back to their room with the furniture moved around and doors locking and unlocking by themselves.

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First Episcopal Church

The First Episcopal Church was built in Jerome in 1900 but moved to its current building on Clark Street in 1927. Although the church closed its doors in 1953 when the mines closed, the Jerome Historical Society bought the property in 1953 to ensure it was not lost to the ages. Today they use this place for their archives and administration. If you come to her at twilight, you’ll get the chance to meet the church’s resident ghost. She is a woman, robed in white mist, who often stands in the doorway of the church, looking out at the town from this high vantage point.

The Haunted Hamburger

If you’re looking for a place to eat which serves up a side of the spooks, then you must head over to the Haunted Hamburger. While the menu is pretty standard diner fare, the ambience and stories from the locals you’ll learn while visiting are what you really come for. Chefs say that while in the kitchen, ghosts like to throw utensils around to tease them. Contractors swear that the ghosts have been known to steal their tools. A spirit by the name of Claire is thought to wander the second floor, and often you can head footsteps when they swear no one is up there.

Surgeon’s House

This old home, once the residence of the town’s surgeon, is haunted by many spirits. The surgeon was like a celebrity. He was often the richest man in Jerome who was old not a miner. He was a scholar and an educated man. Women were enthralled by these men from big cities. And miners were impressed by the stories they would tell of these lives, so different from the ones they knew. The Surgeons House was the site of many cocktail parties that would rage well into the late hours of the evening.

To this day, phantom music has been known to play, heard all across town. These days the old house is bed and breakfast. And guests have been known to see spectres dancing through the halls. These ghosts seem rather friendly and are just there to have a good time, as they did in life. A famous ghost dressed in a blue gown is frequently seen laughing through the halls. Often chasing a man seen carrying a leather doctors bag, perhaps the surgeon himself.

The Old Company Clinic

The Old Company Clinic was the second hospital to be built in Jerome. It was where, during the 1918 flu epidemic, hundreds of Jerome’s residents came to attempt to be treated. Unfortunately, hundreds of those people died, and their souls are thought to haunt this building. People claim to have said they’ve seen eyes in the windows and patients in turn of the century gowns walking around the 2nd floor. Doctors and nurses rush from room to room, as they would have done while they were alive, trying to cope with the hundreds of sick and dying people who came through their doors. The flu was genuinely horrific to behold and the imprint this terror wrought on the people who witnessed it made a lasting impression on the town, even years after the fateful events.

Crematory

When the third hospital was built, now the Grand Hotel, this one was left to rot. But not for long. The doctors and nurses began using it as a kind of social clubhouse in 1927, to retire in after a long day at work. It had a library, pool tables and lounge. But once the winter came, they found there was no heating in the building. Going on at the same time, the new hospital realized they did not have a working crematory to dispose of their dead bodies. Never to squander an opportunity, the doctors saw a solution to both their problems. They began using the crematory in the old hospital to burn bodies and heat their clubhouse all at once. Despite the ingenuity of the solution, this imbued the entire place with ghosts angry to be thought of as nothing more than coal for these doctors.

Ghost of the Little Girl

The last famous ghost to see if you can spot is that of a little girl. She is often seen sitting near the front door of the old hospital waiting for her mother. Her mother had come down with the flu and the little girl starved to death waiting for her mother to return home, although she never did as she died in hospital of the flu. The little girl often will only come out to maternal figures who she thinks might be her mother returning to her.

Asylum Restaurant

The Award-Winning Asylum Restaurant located at the Jerome Grand Hotel offers lunch and dinner services every day. The restaurant overlooks the entire Verde Valley and provides the diners one of the most amazing views. Although the name seems a bit cheesy, the decor inside is beautiful art deco from the period the building was constructed. The food is all classic dishes and is wonderfully prepared by some of the best chefs in the Valley. The select dishes include Pastrami Salad, Char-Broiled Chilean Grilled Salmon and Mesquite Bacon Wrapped Filet Mignon. If you’re looking for a spot to eat dinner, this is an excellent choice for something a little more luxurious!

The Grand Hotel

The new Jerome Grand Hotel was initially built in 1926 as the Verde County Hospital. The hospital was designed in the Spanish mission revival style of architecture which was so popular at the time. It was one of the last significant buildings to be constructed in Jerome. Since it was so far away from the city centre, it avoided a lot of the fires that broke out downtown and therefore remained its original facade. Also, because it was a hospital and contained so many expensive machines, it was made to be fireproof and withstand dynamite blasts of up to 260,000 pounds.

In 1926 it was the most modern and well-equipped hospitals in Arizona as the mining finances paid for the best services money could afford. But by the 50s, when the mining dried up, the hospital closed down. The building stood unused for 44 years until it was renovated by the Altherr family in 1994 and was turned into a hotel for tourists. The family made many efforts to keep the structure and design of the original hospital to maintain its historical memory. But this also kept within its walls, the ghosts who passed away inside these walls. It was thought that over 9,000 people lost their lives here in this very spot.

Ghosts of the Hotel

Even if you’re not staying in the hotel, venture inside the lobby where some of the most restless spirits are found. Sitting in the dimly lit waiting room, you might spot the old woman in elegant clothes who is thought to be waiting for her husband. Items have flown off the gift shop shelves, doors close on their own and the front desk phone often rings with calls from unoccupied rooms. Behind the front desk of the lobby is still in working 1920’s elevator.

Claude Harvey

The most famous ghost of them all who lives in the hotel is Claude Harvey. Claude was a maintenance worker in the hospital during the 1930s. Claude was well-liked by everyone in town, and when he was found dead at the bottom of the elevator shaft, pinned under the elevator, everyone was shocked. There was an official inquest into his death where they discovered that his neck had been broken before the fall, and there were several strange scratch marks on his body not caused by the fall. In the end, the death was ruled an accident, but many people in town thought otherwise.

Shortly after his death, strange occurrences began at the hospital, specifically around the elevator. Even when no one is inside the lights go on and off and it sounds like someone is walking around inside. The owners went so far as to think someone had been breaking into the hospital and living there unbeknownst to anyone else, but no one was ever found. To this day, any strange occurrences in the elevator are thought to be the ghost of Claude.

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The Old Hospital Ghosts

The 3rd floor was where the operating room was and where most patients lost their lives. For years people have reported hearing coughing, painful groans and cries of distress echoing through the halls. Despite replacing the old wooden floorboards with sound cancelling carpet, guests have been known to hear the rolling of old hospital gurneys on wood floors. The most famous spirit on the 3rd floor is that of an old bearded miner who has been seen turning the lights on and off in the hallways.

Strange occurrences have happened to the living inside the hotel as well. In-room number 32, a man in wheelchair mysteriously managed to fall off a balcony, reportedly committing suicide. In the same room, only a few years later, a businessman shot himself in the face. A caretaker was hanged, and there were multiple murders throughout the hotel. Although this could be due to the “wildness” of the town, the thought of these deaths being influenced by ghosts of the past is hard not to imagine.

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Maternity Ward

On the 4th floor, where the maternity ward once was, there is a ghost of a mother who lost her baby in childbirth. She still roams the halls, frantically searching for her little baby. People report smells coming from unoccupied rooms such as cigar smoke and whiskey, in the waiting room where expectant fathers would have once waited.

United Verde Mine

From the parking lot of the Grand Hotel, you have a beautiful view across Verde Valley, and the old United Verde Mines. Beneath the entire city of Jerome, there are old mine shafts and tunnels which are thought to be the resting place of hundreds of miners. One famous ghost is named “headless Charlie” who was decapitated in an accident years ago. His head was recovered but the rest of him, much like the headless horsemen, was never found. After his death, many other miners would report hearing groaning and shuffling as if it was the ghost of Charlie searching for his lost head.

Today, standing on the cliff of these mines, the wind can play tricks on you, and you might hear what sounds like the echos of men trapped beneath the earth for eternity. Cries in the distance are a common occurrence, and here in the uneasy quiet, there is almost always something which can trick your mind into thinking it heard something quite not of this earth…or many it was just that.

Jason S. Voss

A BIG thanks to Jason S. Voss, who helped clear up a few facts for us! Jason has worked for the Jerome Historical Society and works for Jerome’s oldest local tour company, Tours Of Jerome. He is also an amazing local artist. Feel free to contact him for a personal tour of the city! Jason was a contributor to the book “Haunted Jerome” which just came out 3 months ago written by Midge Stueber and Pat Jacobson. If you’re interested in learning more about Jerome I would highly recommend you pick up a copy!

I’ve been to Jerome multiple times, and the people who live here LOVE telling stories. In addition to taking this walking tour, make time to chat with the locals as everyone seems to have had their own personal ghost encounter which they are eager to share! If you’ve ever had your own haunted happening let me know in the comments!

HAPPY HALLOWEEN ADVENTURERS

The post Explore the eerily beautiful haunted streets of Jerome, Arizona, on a self-guided walking tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
3. #1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
4. #2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán
5. #3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza
6. #4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán
7. #5 Learn about Mexico's Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares
8. #6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul
9. #7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated
10. #8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho
11. #9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán
12. #10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa
13. #11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina
14. #12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
15. #13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán
16. #14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, Line 3 to Coyoacan Station, but the station is a bit of a walk from the main areas of the tour. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, and mythology with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer the land they controlled.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores in 1519 the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexicas, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and gardens.

#1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

#2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours. They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions.

The Monastery

The monastery is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

#3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th-century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

#4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán

The Mercado de Coyoacán has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, marketplace was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Shopping in the Market

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan ! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shtrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

El Borrego de Oro

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

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#5 Learn about Mexico’s Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares

The National Museum of Popular Culture is one of the most vibrant museums you’ll visit anywhere in the world. Rather than old painting or ancient relics, the museum focuses on temporary exhibitions which rotate and change throughout the year. They call themselves a living entity. There is always something new to see. But regardless of what is on exhibition, there will also be items featuring expressions of popular, indigenous and urban cultures. The museum is a great place to come to learn about Mexico’s current culture and art scene. 

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#6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

#7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

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#8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick-me-up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

#9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán

This ice cream shop across from the park has been serving up traditional flavours of ice cream inspired by the many different fruits which grow only around this part of the country. Don’t recognize the name or a certain flavour? Give it a try! You might be totally shocked to find a new favourite flavour, even if you had no idea what it actually was. This is an especially good treat if you’re visiting on a hot day. Grab a few scoops and relax under the shade of the park nearby.

#10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán. Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

#11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina

The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

#12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings!

There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century. In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple.

#13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

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#14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

The Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives has 30 different movie theatres housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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The post 14 of the Best Places to Visit in Coyoacán to Spend the Perfect Day in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

You’ll visit not only her famous residence, Casa Azul, but also explore a multitude of other significant places. These spots were essential in the formation of her identity and connection to her Mexican heritage. If this is your first time visiting Mexico City, this tour is an excellent method of discovery. Many of her famous locations are located in the heart of neighbourhoods with a variety of other popular attractions.

Tour Itinerary

This tour is divided up into four different sections, each one focusing on a particular area of Mexico City. While it might not be the most chronological journey, it allows you to explore different neighbourhoods around Mexico city cohesively. While a chronological life tour would be better in terms of following her journey, it requires bouncing all over the city. Especially for those who are on a tight schedule, that’s not the best use of your time.

The three different neighbourhoods are the Coyoacán, Historic City Centre, and Xochimilco’t. You can easily add these spots to your existing itinerary. I would advise to only tackle one neighbourhood at a time. Don’t try to fit it all in one go. The last section is a list of museums. These museums will help you get a deeper understanding of Mexican culture, insights about Frida, and art in Mexico. Since these places were not locations Frida really visited they are not part of the essential tour. Although they do add a lot of contextual information if you’re interested in that kind of thing.

Below is a map of the entire walking tour. I have broken up the neighbourhoods into separate maps for easy-to-follow directions.

Frida Kahlo in Coyoacan

1. Tour Itinerary
2. Frida Kahlo Museum
3. Coyoacan Market
4. The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal
5. Cantina La Guadalupana
6. Parroquia San Juan Bautista
7. Frida Kahlo Park
8. La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura
9. Jardín Centenario
10. Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
11. Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera's House-Studio
12. Former College of San Ildefonso
13. Biblioteca Pública 
14. Secretaría De Educación Pública
15. Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
16. The Palacio Nacional
17. Avenue 5 de Mayo
18. Garibaldi Square
19. Palacio de Bellas Artes
20. Alameda Central
21. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
22. La Ciudadela
23. Xochimilco Canals
24. Museo Dolores Olmedo
25. Templo Mayor Museum
26. Museum of Modern Art
27. Museo Nacional de Antropología
28. Mexican Art Gallery | GAM
29. Museo Franz Mayer
30. Museo Anahuacalli

Frida Kahlo Museum

La Casa Azul or “the blue house“, located on Londres Street in Coyoacán once belonged to Frida’s father, Guillermo Kahlo. It was here where she was born. She grew up inside these walls. It was the place where she suffered from illness but also flourished as an artist. Eventually, Frida bought the house from her parents and lived with her husband, Diego. They got divorced and remarried all within these blue walls. And ultimately, it was the place where she would pass away. It was her sanctuary but also her cage. She spent more years inside these walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art. They collected pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more which is still on display. You feel a deep connection with Frida by literally walking in her footsteps. You get to see her inner sanctum and looking at the precious treasures she collected, which represented her passions, her wishes and her dreams. To learn more about the Casa Azul take my self guided tour!

Coyoacan Market

South of Frida’s house is the Coyoacán Market. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. Both Frida and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul. Frida loved to cook, and there are countless recipe books out there that details her favourite recipes. At one time, she was quoted as saying,

“We could not have a child, and I cried inconsolably, but I distracted myself by cooking, dusting the house, sometimes by painting…”

Frida’s Shopping List

Frida would come to these brightly coloured corners of the marketplace to shop for her favourite ingredients, chat with her local shopkeepers and wander around to get inspired for her next creation. This marketplace feels a little more laid back and less modern than some of the ones in the inner city. Exploring it feels like more of an authentic experience to the one Frida would have had herself. Make sure you ask about the mole paste they sell here. Mole was one of Frida’s favourite things to cook and eat, and there are countless varieties here you can buy and taste! See which one if your favourite and bring some of the powdered version home with you to make in your own kitchen!

The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal

The Casa de Cortes, on the north side, of the Plaza Hidalgo was where the seat of government was held for many years. And it was here that Frida and Diego were married. Frida’s parents were not a fan of Diego…to say the least. Diego had already been married twice, and his reputation as an unfaithful husband wasn’t a big secret around town. He was also 21 years older than 22-year-old Frida. Her parents protested and begged Diego not to marry her, but the love birds could not be swayed. Her parents referred to the union as a “marriage between an elephant and a dove” since Diego was over 300 pounds, and due to her illnesses, Frida was only a petite 98 pounds.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

The two were married on August 21st, 1929. Their marriage in city hall was presided by the mayor of Coyaocan, and their witnesses were a hairdresser and homeopathic doctor. Frida wore only a long skirt and simple blouse with a rebozo (shawl) wrapped around her shoulder. She would often wear these in the same way that female revolutionaries wore them during the 1910 revolution when women used the scarves to smuggle guns past government checkpoints. Diego was dressed in a plain grey suit, accessorized with a Stetson hat and a Colt revolver. After their short ceremony, they retreated to their good friend Tina Modotti’s house where the raucous reception was held.

It was recorded that after the wedding, during their reception, Diego took the colt revolver and shot it off aimlessly in a drunken stupor. Frida was none too pleased at this childish behaviour, and it would be the first signs of trouble in paradise for the couple.

Cantina La Guadalupana

Just down the street from the Casa Municipal, you’ll find Frida’s old watering hole, Cantina La Guadalupana. Although the original cantina is now closed, you can still see the old signage out front marking the spot. The building is much unchanged from the days when you’d catch a glimpse of Frida’s richly coloured skirts in the window. The Cantina La Guadalupana was the couple’s bar of choice for drinking tequila under the dim lights and surrounded by bullfighting decor. Frida was quite the prolific drinker for her small size and other than tequila, she would love to drink pulque. Pulque is made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant, native to Mexico. It was a beverage which the ancients Aztecs invented and drinking it made her feel closer to those old gods.

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Parroquia San Juan Bautista

Across the park, stands the imposing shadow of the baroque church that Frida Kahlo attended while she was growing up, Parroquia San Juan Bautista. It is also called the Iglesia de Coyoacán as the church has become the central place of worship in Coyoacán. It was built between 1520 and 1552 and run by an old Dominican order. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. But surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations.

The interior, however, is covered in baroque gilded decorations, and mindblowing ceiling frescos of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Frida would have come here as a child and prayed with her parents. You can only imagine how such a richly artistic place would have inspired young Frida’s mind.

Frida Kahlo Park

Seeing as the city is the place of her birth, it seems only right that Frida would have a park dedicated after her. Frida loved the outdoor, and although not everyone can afford to go into the Casa Azul’s garden daily, they can wake their way to Frida Kahlo Park to celebrate the great artistic legacy…or at the very least, walk their dog in a lovely setting. In the centre of the park, you’ll find two large, bronze sculptures of Frida and Diego. Frida is dressed in her classic Tehuana outfit, gazing over at Diego. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned into geometric shapes, slightly resembling Aztec pyramids popping out in the background.

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La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura

Located on the east end of Coyoacán, is La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura. Frida began teaching here in 1942. She hoped that its close proximity to her house would mean she could easily commute to and from and continue to educate Mexico City’s artistic youth. She loved her students and teaching, but her leg was bothering her more and more and eventually, she couldn’t leave the house. Luckily, the students loved her as well, and the dedicated pupils would come to the Casa Azul, where Frida could continue to instruct them. She would always inspire her students to look to Mexican culture for inspiration, instead of being influenced by European trends. While Frida might not have taught here for a long time, the school grounds are a beautiful and inspiring place to explore.

Jardín Centenario

The Jardin del Centenario is the central greenspace in Coyoacan. It is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. The gardens were once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

This beautiful garden is also where you’ll find a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below.

Frida in the Park

This delightful park is where a place Frida would frequently come to stroll or celebrate during her life in Coyoacan. It was here where the city would hold parades, festivals and fairs. Diego Rivera’s daughters have written extensively about their time living with Diego and Frida in Coyoacán. They lived with them inside the Casa Azul for two years while they completed college. The Jardín CentenarioIn is featured heavily in their accounts as Frida loved to come there to ride carnival rides and march in parades on any day of festivity and would always bring Diego’s daughters with her. Although Frida could never have children herself, she mothered so many young people along the way, acting as a parental figure any time she got the chance.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

The Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles is a cultural centre, free to enter and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. Just inside the entrance to the Casa is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. The house has existed here since 1780, occupied by a variety of different families. It’s no stretch to imagine that the previous owners would have welcomed the famous couple into their garden for a visit or a dinner party from time to time.

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio

Farther west, just outside of Coyoacán in the neighbouring district of San Angel is Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio. Frida and Diego had this building custom designed by their friend Juan O’Gorman. The studio was intended to be two separate buildings, connected by a bridge. A way of physically showing the differences between these two artists, who despite all odds, still manage to come together. Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. Frida’s studio, on the other hand, is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her home in Coyoacán. Diego’s house features thin windows along the top of the walls. Frida’s features almost floor to ceiling windows, giving the interior space that indoor/outdoor feeling. The house is separated from the street by a perimeter fence which instead of being made from wood or wrought-iron, is made from stacking rows of tall cacti along the roadside.

Studio-House

The couple lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they got divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul, leaving Diego to live full time, alone in the studio-house. Even after getting back together, only 9-months later, Frida and Diego kept the studio to use as more workspace. Today the interior of the studio features a lot of Diego Rivera’s work and decor, especially his collection of papier-mâché figures.

The Frida side of the house is pretty bare since most of her treasures moved over to the Casa Azul, but it is still interesting to view the architectural designs from inside. The best part of her studio to explore is her bathroom. It was in here that she was inspired to paint ‘What the Water Gave Me’ while staring down at her feet in the bathtub in one of her fits of depression. The very tub which is portrayed in the painting can be still seen today inside the studio. Frida also painted such iconic images as ‘The eye of the eye‘ and ‘The deceased Dimas’ while she lived at the studio-house.

Former College of San Ildefonso

We begin this part of the tour at the Former College of San Ildefonso. It seems very fitting to start the journey here since it was a place of so many firsts for Frida. This was where Frida first went to college in 1922. There she met some of her best friends, her first boyfriend and, most importantly, first met the love of her life; Diego Rivera. Frida’s father had the utmost confidence in his daughter.

Even after she had spent a good deal of her adolescence homeschooled, due to her polio, he still thought she was a genius. Her father decided to send her to this former Jesuit college, at much expense to the family. She was one of only 35 girls, out of 2000 students who went to the school. But she had always gotten along with boys almost more than she did with girls, so she flourished there. Frida would even be seen wearing men’s clothes to the college from time to time and embraced her more masculine side.

The Creation

At the same time, Frida was at school here, Diego Rivera has been commissioned to paint an enormous mural on the lecture room walls. The painting, called ‘The Creation‘ was Rivera’s first gigantic mural of this kind. It was commissioned by the Mexican government to educate the masses of people who couldn’t read but wanted to learn about history. The mural covers more than a thousand square feet and portrays mythological and religious motifs.

It was here when painting the mural that Frida first laid eyes on Diego. She would sneak in to watch him paint his nude models anytime she could. Diego, although married to Lupe Marin at the time, would frequently be found by Frida in the midst of making love to one of his models. She took it upon herself to even warn the artists if she saw his wife coming. Frida would mock and tease him as he worked, but he saw her as a charming little pest. She would go on and on about him to her friends, and despite their age difference, and would proclaim that one day, she would be his wife and have a child by him. Although the latter would never come to pass, who knew how right she would be about the rest.

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Biblioteca Pública 

Down the street from her college, we find the Biblioteca Pública where Frida would come to study. She would come here to meet up with her schoolmates the ‘Los Cachuchas‘. It was here they would discuss at length the politics of the day and plan their communist rallies. But the library was not just a place of learning for Frida. The library was also where she would spend hours falling in love with her first boyfriend, Alex Gómez Arias. In addition to Alex, she also met a gorgeous female librarian and had her first affair with a woman amongst these books. This relationship caused quite the scandal in the community but was her first foray into exploring her bisexuality.

Secretaría De Educación Pública

Just to the north of the school, is the spot of another one of Diego Rivera’s masterpieces. There are 235 panels in the Secretaría de Educación Pública featuring Diego’s favourite themes of blue-collar workers, and the glorification of all things Mexican. It was here while painting these murals in 1928 that Frida Kahlo would come to see Rivera once more. After her injury from the bus accident, she needed to find a way of making money for her family and art was always something which had interested her.

But Frida didn’t know if her artwork was skilled enough to become an accomplished artist. So she went to ask the one man she admired above all others and whom she knew would tell her the truth. She marched right up to him, her work under her arms, and asked him for an honest critique. He was flabbergasted at her brash attitude and charmed by her confidence. It looks him some time to recognize her as the little pest from years before, but it was here that perhaps Diego first fell in love with Frida.

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Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral

Frida’s mother was a fiercely religious woman. The Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral was right beside where Frida would walk to school every day and as such a part of her daily life. Even though many of Frida’s paintings contain a wide variety of indigenous imagery, she was raised in a Catholic household. Elements of religious iconography can be seen in her pictures, especially in her studies of ex-votos. This church is a beautiful place to explore and discover different references you might compare to some of Frida’s famous portraits. The church itself was built after the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire.

The Spaniards decided to build their first church on the site of the Templo Mayor of the Aztec in the city of Tenochtitlan. Stones from the destroyed temple of the Aztecs were used to create the church. And although we now look upon the destruction of that ancient temple as something to morn, it is incredible to stare up at this church and see stones stuck throughout from over 1000 years ago. The construction of the Cathedral began in 1573 and took until 1813 to complete! The enormous cathedral is over 350 feet long and 200 feet wide. This makes it Latin America’s largest and oldest temple.

The Palacio Nacional

The Palacio Nacional or National Palace is an enormous building which stretches out across the Zocalo. While some of the Palace is still used for governmental purposes, the rest of the building is open to the public and filled with incredible gardens, murals, fountains and works of art. But the most meaningful Frida related piece in the palace is the mural by Diego Rivera entitled, ‘The History of Mexico’.

The mural features the history of Mexico from pre-Columbian ancient times to the 1930s. Rivera painted the mural between 1929 and 1935. Key events in the mural feature stories like the Spanish conquest, the colonial period, the Independence movement, and the 1910 Revolution. The right side of the mural is a chronological study of the indigenous Aztecs before colonization.

The left side of the painting is less chronological, featuring smaller groups of stories about Mexico’s Independence. Along the bottom of the mural on the left is the portrait of Frida Kahlo, her iconic monobrow making her easily distinguishable from the others. She looks over a young boys shoulder at his book and is seen wearing a necklace with the communist star. In front of her, dressed in a red, is Cristina, Frida’s sister, holding open a copy of the Communist Manifesto. Years later, Diego would have an affair with Cristina, so seeing the two women here together, years before these dramatic events would unfold feels slightly foreboding.

Avenue 5 de Mayo

Walk along Avenue 5 de Mayo, towards our next destination. While the pedestrian street Avenue Francisco Madero is more popular, I always find it’d packed with tourists and people hawking flyers. In addition to this, the stores are all American brands which don’t feel as authentic to Mexico City. Walking along the street, you’ll see that many of these shops are incredibly old.

There are dozens of stores along the way that Frida herself might have popped her head in while she worked in the city. During her adolescence, she would come into the historic centre to work both in her father’s studio or at other artists’ workshops. Frida worked as an artist apprentice in the city, where she had her first affair with a married man. All of this before the age of 18. These streets filled her life with passion, and that can be seen in her escapades.

Garibaldi Square

Plaza Garibaldi is known as the home of mariachi music. Throughout the day, you’ll find mariachi bands playing all over the square. Frida herself loved coming here. She would bring her friends and family here anytime there was a celebration or holiday. She adored dancing to the music and often took part singing songs with the band members.

NOTE: Due to it’s proximity to the dangerous neighbourhood of Tepito, this area should be visited with caution, during the daylight hours. In recent years the city has taken many precautions to help with the safety concerns including increased police presence and the creation of the Bellas Artes-Garibaldi Tourism Corridor. This corridor has improved street lighting as well as the addition of beautiful gardens and sidewalks in the neighbouring streets to help improve the appearance of the area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Palacio de Bellas Artes

Palacio de Bellas Artes and its iconic rainbow stained glass roof are one of the most iconic images of Mexico City. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts events in music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and is therefore aptly named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico”. The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical, but inside you’ll discover a plethora of Art Deco and Art Nouveau stylings. On the 3rd floor is Diego Rivera’s famous ‘El hombre en el cruce de caminos‘ (Man at the Crossroads).

This mural was initially painted for New York City’s Rockefeller Center in 1933 but torn down by Rockefeller when Diego refused to paint out the image of Lenin he had sneakily included. Frida’s life in New York City, following Diego around from commission to commission, was such a significant point in her life. Gazing upon this mural, albeit the second version of it, is still such a powerful connection to the couple.

Frida’s Funeral

When Frida Kahlo died, Diego arranged for her body to be laid in state at the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The government agreed, only if they would make it an entirely non-political event. Diego agreed, but unbeknownst to him, one of her students came to pay their respects and after he did, threw a huge communist flag over her casket. The government threated to have her body removed, but Diego refused to let them. He said if they tried, he would carry her dead body in his arm and sit with her on the steps of the palace. Before she died, the last words she wrote in her diary read:

“I hope the exit is joyful – and I hope never to return”.

Alameda Central

One of Rivera’s most famous paintings is the fifty-foot fresco ‘Sunday walk through Alameda Park‘. The picture is currently in the Diego Rivera mural museum, but visiting Alameda Park is an excellent opportunity to take a walk inside of the painting itself. Alameda Park was Mexico City’s first city park and was built on the grounds of an ancient Aztec marketplace. Frida is painted into the mural, wearing the traditional Tehuana dress. She is holding in her left hand the Yin-Yang symbol, which represents duality. Perhaps this is the duality of life, or maybe Diego painted it as a reference to Frida’s dual personality.

Frida is resting her hand on young Diego’s should, like a mother protecting her young one. You can imagine how many times Diego and Frida would have come to this park together, to paint and to relax. Take some time to walk around and even buy some street food snacks to enjoy under the Jacaranda trees which bloom bright purple in the springtime.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

If you’ve visited the real Alameda Park, then it’s a treat to then see the mural of, ‘Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Central’. Look how closely Diego captured its likeness and the personalities of the people in the park. Despite being called a museum, the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is more of a housing spot for the mural, but the admission is just over a dollar. Originally the mural it was located at Hotel Del Prado. After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the hotel was condemned. Luckily, the mural was saved (in pieces) and moved the museum where it was reassembled.

La Ciudadela

Another iconic destination on the tour of Frida’s Mexico City is to the La Ciudadela marketplace. While this market only opened up in 1968, Frida would have frequented markets like this many times throughout her life in Mexico City. Places like this would have been where she came to purchase folk art, traditional textiles and elaborate, locally-made jewellery. So many of the old Tehuana patterns and dresses which Frida was known for can still be found in marketplaces like this.

Because this market is so large, you’ll have the largest selection and artisans comes from all over the country. Oaxaca is the best place to buy textiles from so if you see signage saying the products are from there you know they’ll be top-notch. If you’ve visited the Casa Azul already, you can even buy replicas of her favourite objects since many of those folk pieces are still made in the same way today. It’s like shopping in a Frida Kahlo-themed store!

Xochimilco Canals

Xochimilco is the Venice of Mexico. In the southern district of Mexico City, you’ll find is over 170 km of waterways which spread out in all different directions. Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico City, the indigenous people had created an incredible network of canals. They used these channels for transportation and to supply water throughout the country. Xochimilco means “Floating Gardens” as it refers to the Aztecs creation of the chinampas. Chinampas are artificial agricultural plots, rich in minerals, that are grown in shallow lake beds. In Xochimilco, they were used to produce thousands of flowers which looked like they were floating in the water. After the Spanish invasion, they dried up many of the canals in the centre of Mexico City to make room for modern roads. But the channels in Xochimilco remained.

Frida adored her Mexican heritage and the colourful culture which Mexico is all about. Today, Xochimilco is the best place to bask in that colour and energy. Along the canals, you can listen to mariachi bands, call over boats with mobile kitchens to serve up fresh tacos or delicious elote. Paddling along the stream are artisans selling flower crowns that resemble the flowers that Frida herself would wear in her hair. Even here, her iconic image is prevalent. To learn more about Xochimilco read my full guide here >> 

Museo Dolores Olmedo

While in Xochimilco, make sure you make a stop at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Museum. The museum is located inside the grounds of an old 16th-century residence. In 1962, Dolores Olmedo bought the house. Dolores was a fierce collector of art as well as a lover of Mexican culture. It is no surprise to learn then that she old became the largest collector of private works of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. In 1994, her collection was transformed into the museum we now find today. Luckily, Dolores lived until 2002, so she was able to see this fantastic house converted into an art gallery for the public.

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Today you can explore gardens filled with exotic Mexican plants, magical peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles. Xoloitzcuintles are a dog breed which was once only thought it exists in mythical stories of the afterlife but is actually an ancient Aztec dog. Frida herself loved these dogs and owned multiple throughout her lifetime. Inside the museum, you can find such famous Frida Kahlo’s as ‘The Broken Column’, ‘Henry Ford Hospital’, ‘Self-portrait with Changuito’, ‘A few Piquetitos‘ and ‘Mi nana Nand Me‘. If there is a particular painting, you wish to see be SURE to check online as so often her pictures are out on loan, being shown around the world.

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Templo Mayor Museum

Mexican culture and history were so essential to Frida’s life. Although Templo Mayor wasn’t discovered until after her death in 1978, Frida would have loved to have seen this relic from the past unveiled. Today, you can visit the museum and see what archaeologists discovered; the remains of the Aztec temple which the Spanish destroyed on their conquest into Mexico. The 10-foot carving of the Mexican goddess Coyolxauhqui and the over 7,000 Mexica artefacts is an entire half days worth of discovery!

Museum of Modern Art

The Museum of Modern Art in Mexico City has a stunning collection of 20th-century Mexican art. The most important being Frida Kahlo’s “The Two Fridas“. This painting is one of the most essential pieces in her oeuvre. It was painted after she divorced Diego and depicts what she saw as her two different personalities. The one on the left is dressed in traditional Tehuana costume, with a broken heart, her blood spilling out on the white of her dress. This Frida’s makeup is done, her lips painted deep red and rouge on her cheeks.

The Frida on the right is dressed in a more modern outfit. She is the independent Frida, whose heart is not broken and who can take on the world without Diego. But the two exist together, shattered and complete, heartbroken and confident. I love this painting as I feel it is so poignant to all of our lives and how we can be all things at once. Strong and weak, shy and loud, brave and scared. You don’t need to commit to one thing alone, we are complex beings, and this painting is a beautiful interpretation of that.

NOTE: Before visiting, be sure to check the website to see if the painting is on loan to another museum. Since this is the only piece of Kahlo’s inside the museum if you’re going expecting to see that and it’s on loan I know how disappointing that might be. So checking in advance is super important!

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Museo Nacional de Antropología

Throughout her life, Frida would often refer to “being the daughter and Mexico“. Her mother was unable to breastfeed young Frida, and so she was breastfed by her indigenous wetnurse. This is an image Frida has painted in a myriad of artworks. Frida always thought that by feeding on the milk of her country, she absorbed the cultural roots of her heritage from the minute she was born. Visiting the National Anthropology Museum is a window into the pre-colonial history of Mexico and those roots Frida so often referred to. The museum is also filled with many indigenous artworks as well as some of Frida and Diego’s student’s artwork they helped inspire.

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Mexican Art Gallery | GAM

Inés Amor founded the original Mexican Art Gallery in Mexico’s City in 1935. This was where Frida’s first art show in Mexico would take place. She exhibited her artworks during the inaugural International Surrealist Exhibition in 1940 with her painting ‘Las Fridas‘ (The Two Fridas, which is now at the Modern Art Gallery of Mexico). Even though there are no longer any of her pictures hanging on the walls, this is still an extraordinary place to visit. The gallery was the first to recognize the talents of Frida Kahlo professionally, and they are doing the same thing with current, contemporary Mexican artists today.

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Museo Franz Mayer

The Franz Mayer Museum is one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in Mexico City. It also houses a wonderful personal art collection from collector Franz Mayer. Here you can find over six centuries of objects he took great care in collecting throughout his lifetime. These collections feature ceramics, furniture, silver, sculpture, paintings and engravings.

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But there is also a room, called the Marguerite Rostan gallery, which highlights traditional Mexican textiles and costumes. The collection contains clothing from 14 different ethnicities such as Amusgos, Triquis, Chinantecos, Mazatecos, Nahuas from various places across Mexico. This acquisition represents and embodies an important contribution to the knowledge of traditional Mexican costumes. Many of these dresses are so similar to the ones Frida wore throughout her life. If you’re interested in learning more about traditional Mexican fashion, this is a great place to visit.

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Museo Anahuacalli

On your way to Xochimilco, you should stop by the Museo Anahuacalli. Your ticket into the Casa Azul actually also covers your entry into this museum as well, so you kinda get a two for one! The Museo Anahuacalli was another one of Diego Rivera’s homes. Diego and Frida were both fierce nationalists who loved their home country and wanted to preserve its history. Diego and Frida dreamed of opening their own museum dedicated to these objects. Sadly, in their lifetime, this dream never came to fruition. But after Diego’s death, his daughter took up the project and created what is now the Museo Anahuacalli. Architect, Juan O’Gorman who designed their studio, also designed this house as well.

The exterior of the house was made using black volcanic stone, taken from an old volcano in Mexico and the texture is something truly unique. There are over 50,000 pre-Hispanic pieces inside the museum. Some of these Diego would collect while he and Frida would travel to ancient Aztec pyramids outside of Mexico City. Each one of them was a piece of Mexico’s heritage, a heritage that inspired the work of Frida Kahlo and I know she would be proud to have helped in the creation of this museum which stands today.

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If you’ve made it all the way through this post, I commend you! There is so much in Mexico City to see in the footsteps of Frida Kahlo. You can easily adapt this tour to your personal interests or locations you’re already planning on visiting. Frida is one of the most exciting artists I’ve ever studied, and I loved writing and researching this tour, so I hope you have as much fun following it as I did in creating it!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Following the Colorful Life of Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This guided walking tour will lead you across the all the important stops in Coyoacán. I think to take it at a leisurely pace, leave yourself a whole day so you can take your time and go inside a few of the stops along the way. A google map with all the locations on the tour can be found at the bottom of this post.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
   • Map Of Walking Tour
   • Begin at: Frida Kahlo Park
   • Plaza de la Conchita
   • Casa de la Malinche
   • Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
   • Calle de Higuera
   • Iglesia de Coyoacán
     • Church Interior
   • Centenario Plaza
   • Hidalgo Plaza
   • Casa Municipal
   • Mercado Artesanal
   • Mercado de Coyoacán
     • Market Stalls
   • La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Museum
   • Leon Trotsky House Museum
   • Cafe El Jarocho
   • Le Bipo
   • Churreria General de la Republica
   • La Casa Del Coleccionista
   • Avenida Francisco Sosa
   • Casa De Diego De Ordaz
   • Italian Cultural Institute
   • Parque Santa Catarina
   • Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
     • Frida and Diego Statue
   • Barricas Don Tiburcio
   • Fonoteca Nacional
   • Viveros de Coyoacán
   • Centenario 107
   • Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, but the station is quite far away from our starting point. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City. The journey takes around 25 minutes depending on traffic.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer land.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores of Mexico in 1519, the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexican tribes, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. Cortés established himself in Coyoacán with the tribe he had become close with. He brought with him much wealth and Coyoacán bloomed as one of the most beautiful villages in the world, not just in Mexico. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can still find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and lush green gardens.

Map Of Walking Tour

Begin at: Frida Kahlo Park

Wake up bright and early and head on down to the start of your tour, Frida Kahlo Park. Since Frida is the most well-known resident of the neighbourhood, it seems fitting to start our journey here. This square honours the memory of the great Mexican painter. You can find a bronze sculpture of her with a full Tehuana dress, standing proudly in the centre of the plaza. Beside her, is her husband, Diego Rivera, looking on lovingly. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned and geometric shapes, resembling those of Aztec pyramids forming the archway overtop of the pathway.

 

 

 

 

 

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Plaza de la Conchita

Early in the morning, this peaceful square is practically empty. Only a few tamale sellers might be seen passing through on their way to hot spots in the centre of Coyoacán. In the middle of this square stands the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception Church, or “La Conchita“. La Conchita is a nickname for the church which literally translate into, “the little shell”. Although the church is now closed for restoration work, walking around this plaza will still provide an excellent introduction to the neighbourhood.

When the Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes arrived in Coyoacán, he built this Church on what once was a pre-Hispanic ceremonial site. This was where Cortes held the very first Christian mass in the new land. The building’s exterior has an incredible stonework patterned facade, meant to resemble a the texture of a shell. The restoration taking place is attempting to repaint the church the same canary yellow as it once would have been coloured.

Casa de la Malinche

Walking north along the park, along Higuera street, you’ll pass the Casa de la Malinche. Although not open to the public, this house is thought to have been initially built for Cortés’ Spanish wife, Catalina Juárez de Marcaida. ‘La Malinche’ is the Spanish word for ‘the captain’s woman‘. Catalina Juárez de Marcaida was murdered in this very spot as she was seen to be a traitor to her people and even sometimes blamed for the downfall of the Aztec empire.

Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

Calle de Higuera

Walking along the Calle de Higuera, up towards our next stop, take some time to observe the houses and buildings on either side of the street. This is one of the oldest streets in the city. Many of these homes were built in the colonial era and have been catalogued for their historical value.

Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

Church Interior

The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours.

They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions. The monastery portion of the church is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

Centenario Plaza

Spend some time wandering the two adjoining parks, the Centenario Garden and Hidalgo Plaza. The gated entrance to the Jardin del Centenario is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. It was once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

In the centre of Centenario Plaza is a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below. Underfoot, the street is paved with red and black volcanic stone from Mexico.

Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

Casa Municipal

Across from Hidalgo Plaza, you’ll find the Hernan Cortés house or Casa Municipal. It was built in the 18th century as an administration building for the government. Although called the Cortes house, the conquistador never lived here. He did in fact life in Coyoacán from 1521 to 1522 but never on this property, even though a placard on the building says he did...the original fake news I suppose. Perhaps he simply spent so many hours inside these walls that people simply assumed he must live there.

Cortés resided on a piece of land once owned by the indigenous leader of Coyoacán, Juan de Guzmán Iztolinque, located where we now find La Conchita Church. The current incarnation of the Casa Municipal was built in the 18th century by Cortés’ descendants. The building was where the government of Coyoacán did all their business until 1928 when this district was absorbed as a municipality of Mexico City.

Mercado Artesanal

Across the street from Hidalgo Plaza is the yellow archway entrance to the Mercado Artesanal Coyoacán. While this artist market is less impressive than the Mercado De Artesanias La Ciudadela, the courtyard of the Artesanal market here well worth checking out for the beautiful ‘papel picado’ (pecked paper) which hang from either side of the small garden. The prices in this market are actually very reasonable (sometimes cheaper than in the city centre), but the selection isn’t extensive. I did find some beautiful glass work which I hadn’t seen anywhere though so you really never know what you’ll find. And if this is your only opportunity to visit a market in Mexico City than this is a great opportunity.

Mercado de Coyoacán

Head north along Aguayo and turn down Ignacio Allende where you’ll spot the terra cotta roof tiles of the Mercado de Coyoacán. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, market place was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Market Stalls

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

 

 

 

 

 

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La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Museum

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

Leon Trotsky House Museum

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

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Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick me up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

Le Bipo

If coffee won’t suffice and you’re looking for something a little more intense, head across to Le Bipo, across from Allende Park. This hip bar is a stylish place for an afternoon drink and some great people watching. For something really unique, try the Mauricio Garcés, a mezcal and with frozen pineapple soda, topped with chili powder.

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Churreria General de la Republica

On your way back towards the western part of down, you’ll pass back from through the Jardin Centenario once more. Across from the park is the Churreria General de la Republica which sells some fantastic churros, served up with a variety of dipping sauces. I love a churro but I think I love dipping them even more! If you’re hankering for a snack, this is a great place to stop for a quick break and take a seat in the park.

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La Casa Del Coleccionista

Right around the corner from the churros bakery is La Casa Del Coleccionista. This little shop sells antiques of all kinds. You can find everything from flatware, toys, paintings, vases, coins and more! Even if you don’t leave with anything, this place is like visiting a museum of Coyoacán’s ephemera.

Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

Casa De Diego De Ordaz

One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán.

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Italian Cultural Institute

Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

Parque Santa Catarina

For a quiet break, stop off in the Parque Santa Catarina. The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property.

In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings! There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century.

Frida and Diego Statue

In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. Behind the walls of the garden, to the south, see if you can see the rooftop of La Callejón del Aguacate. This house is one of the most haunted in the Coyoacan. It is said to be haunted by the ghost of a woman and is a frequent place where local school children will be seen ghost hunting after hours.

Barricas Don Tiburcio

Continuing along Avenue Francisco Sosa, stop in at one of the most adorable groceries stores, Barricas Don Tiburcio. This boutique shop sells the finest wines from all around Mexico, if you’re a big wine fan, they are very well versed in the different varieties and can send you home with a real winner. They also sell delicious handcrafted Mexican products such as Oaxaca cheese, grasshoppers, prickly pear candies, peanut jams, queso chihuahua and more!

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Fonoteca Nacional

Towards the end of Avenue Francisco Sosa you’ll come upon the colourful Fonoteca Nacional, also known as the “House of Sounds of Mexico“. This beautiful building and the tranquil gardens which surround it, is the perfect place to come and wander to see if anything is going on. There is often free concerts or exhibitions happening in the various rooms, so it’s worth poking your head inside to see what’s going on.

Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

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Centenario 107

After a long walk through the park, it’s time for dinner. Stop off at Centenario 107 for a laid back, colourful dinner. Colourful both in the atmosphere, decor as well as the food! There is an excellent selection of traditional delicacies as well as local craft beers and speciality mezcals.

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Cineteca Nacional

Our last stop on tour, as the sun begins to set is at the Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives. This 30 screen movie theatre is housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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The post Best Walking Tour of Historic Coyoacán, Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.