My favourite places to shop when travelling are stores that have a history. A rich tapestry of time that makes everything they sell so important! Most of these businesses have been open for multiple generations and represent the best of that country. Things which people have come to love for years and years, so you know it’s the good stuff! It is like taking a piece of history home with you! So come with us now to discover my favourite Historic Shops and the souvenirs to buy which are so much more interesting for your friends and family than any beard oil or robe will ever be! Many of these shops have online stores so even if you’re not travelling there directly, you can still buy something really special for Christmas.

Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy | Florence, Italy

Stepping into the Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy is about as close to going back in time as you’ll get. The old shop in Florence prides itself on being the world’s oldest pharmacy, which opened in 1221! Back then, there was a small Dominican Order who lived in the connecting Church of Santa Maria Novella. Like many orders of monks, they had their own herb gardens where they grew a variety of medicinal plants. Using these plans, the monks created herbal concoctions and started selling them to the public. Their treatments actually worked for minor, everyday nuisances like stomach pains and headaches. Even today, many people still use herbal treatments to help with their body ailments. But also created from these herbs and fresh flowers were sensational (literally) perfumes.

The Perfumerie

In 1612 an official retail operation was opened where they began selling items aside from medicine. Everything from perfume to potpourri and other toiletries could be created from their ancient garden. Today, you can still purchase the very same perfumes as medieval Florentines wore back in 1621! The Acqua della Regina scent uses the same recipe the Dominican monks made in 1533 for Caterina de Medici. Caterina de Medici commissioned the perfume when she married Enrico di Valois and moved to France. The fresh citrus bouquet helped remind her of home when she was far away. And as we all know, smell is perhaps the best wall to recall a memory.

Angeli di Firenze is a more recent fragrance inspired by the Florentine people. The “Angels of Florence” were a group of young people who came to the aid of the entire city after a devastating flood in 1966. The banks of the Arno river broke, flooding the city. But the flooding was not just water, but thick destructive mud. Some areas were entrenched up to 22 feet deep. Museums, churches and other historic sites were on the brink of losing precious relics, but these young people worked 24 hours a day to ensure they saved all that needed to be rescued. The fragrance was created on the 40th anniversary of the flood and contains a bouquet of sweet, fruity notes. A polar opposite to those muddy smells the workers must have experienced. I wear this perfume anytime I want to feel like a hero!

Livraria Bertrand | Lisbon, Portugal

Inside the blue Azulejo tiled building in the centre of Lisbon, hides the oldest bookstore in the world! Opened in 1732, in the shopping district of Chiado, Livraria Bertrand welcomed people into their store to browse their incredible selection of books. Sadly, their original store was destroyed in 1755 during a devastating earthquake. They had to move out temporarily but were able to move back into their original location in 1773. It only took them 20 years to restore the store back to its former glory!

For over a hundred years, this place has been a favourite hangout of Portuguese writers. Walking inside, you feel like you’re entering an ancient cave. Look up to admire the ancient brick vaults and arched ceilings. Although most of the books they carry here are in Portuguese, they also have a small English section with popular titles. If you buy a book at the store, they will give you a sticker to place inside the book to show that you purchased it at the oldest bookstore in the world.

Even if you don’t want to buy a book, there is a cute little cafe at the back of the shop where you can sit inside and enjoy looking at all the pretty titles stacked on tall wooden shelves. Bookstores and libraries are some of the most peaceful places in the world and are the best place to come for a bit of downtime amid busy travel days.

Pfunds Molkerei | Dresden, Germany

I’ve been singing the praises of Dresden ever since my first visit! It was such a surprising town and the discovery of this place was just one of the many joyful stops we made along the way. Pfunds Molkieri, covered floor to ceiling in the most incredible tiles and Meissen porcelain, is the oldest dairy shop in East Germany. It was built back in 1879 and was the first place where Germans could buy high-quality, concentrated milk. Although the dairy was mostly destroyed in WWII, the family made sure to rebuild in the exact same fashion as the original. Now, visitors can come to see and taste the extraordinary delicacies inside Pfunds Molkieri. 

Guests can try different kinds of milk and cheeses from farms across Germany. Bringing home cheese as a gift for a loved one might prove pretty difficult. Not only does it requires refrigeration but most international countries will not allow you to bring in dairy products through customs. Luckily, Pfunds Molkieri also carries a wonderful selection of milk soaps made from that same famous herd of German cows. Milk soaps are gentle on the skin, a natural exfoliant, help prevent acne and are rich in nutrients! A wonderful stocking stuffer for your Christmas morning.

Maiasmokk | Tallinn, Estonia

Located in the historic quarter of Tallinn, Maiasmokk (which means ‘Sweet tooth‘) is the oldest café in Estonia. The regal cafe has been in operation since 1864. Inside, the interior feels so sumptuous. Like having a coffee in Versaille! The intricate ornate mirrored ceiling reflects the gorgeous old tiled floors, and rich wooden furnishings. The cafe is a true slice of history as it has remained unchanged for almost a century.

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While Maiasmokk serves all the coffees and teas you’d expect, its most popular item is marzipan. The cafe even features a museum dedicated to the history of marzipan. In the 19th century, this was where the Russian Imperial family came to get their marzipan. The almond-based sugary treat lasts forever, making it a great gift to bring home!

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Tsuen Tea | Uji, Japan

When you think of Japan, one of the first things that you might think of is a cup of green tea. And in Uji, Japan (just outside Kyoto), you can visit the world’s oldest tea shop, Tsuen Tea. Tsuen Tea opened here in 1160, although the building which you can visit today is a later construction from 1672.

The Tsuen family were descendants of a great samurai who was the guardian of the ancient Uji Bridge. The family lived adjacent to the bridge and opened a small tea shop next door where they would greet travellers. And serve them tea. Inside the Edo period shop, you can still see ceramic tea jars that are several hundred years old sitting along the shelves. Be sure to pay your respects to the old Tsuen samurai, whose wooden statues still stands proudly inside on display.

Legatoria Piazzesi | Venice, Italy

Tucked away in on the Campiello Feltrina San Marco is Venice‘s oldest paper shop; Legatoria Piazzesi. This old stationary shop has been making paper-based wonders since 1851. It is still in operation today and offers onsite book-binding services as well as hand-printed sheets of ornamented paper. The ornate handmade papers are so beautiful they could simply be placed in a frame as they look like a work of art. But even better, they can be used by intrepid journalists and scrapbookers.

The owners are pretty strict, and this is a place where you should only enter if you intend to buy something. For those who just prefer to browse, stick to peeking in the windows. They always have lovely displays of their bookbinding, and you can usually poke your head inside the door to at least check out the stock of papers overflowing from all the shelves. This isn’t done out of malice. Handmade paper is super delicate, and now that the shop is somewhat of a tourist destination, they don’t want any overcrowding. The store is tiny and their products can easily be damaged.

Il Marmoraro | Rome, Italy

All along Via Margutta you might spot unique stone signs to mark the various restaurants and shops along the street. These are all created inside Il Marmoraro. The owners have been here making custom-made signs for over 60 years! But the tradition of these stone signs dates back hundreds of years. In ancient Rome, legislative acts were written on bronze tablets and then displayed on Capitol Hill. These old tablets had a very distinct ancient roman style script. This became the defacto “font” used in Rome. It went to be inscribed on stone columns, gravestones and even street sights. And today, Il Marmoraro keeps up the tradition, still making signs using that ancient hand-carved typography.

The owner doesn’t speak much English but happily greets everyone who comes into the shop with a smile. For only €15, he will make you a custom sign in the same style as the ancient ones. You can have pretty much anything written upon as long as it’s not too many characters. If you arrive early, your personalized stone tablet will be ready for you before the end of day!

Caza das Vellas Loreto | Lisbon, Portugal

Happening upon the Caza das Vellas Loreto while in Lisbon was one of the highlights of my trip. My eyes were drawn to the curiously shaped vibrant candles in the window and I poked my head inside. The tiny shop feels like stepping into an old wardrobe. The entire place is only three meters wide! But stuffed within the glass cabinets lining the walls are colourful stacks of wax candles. Above the cashier at the back of the shop is a large golden set of numbers with the date 1789 written upon it. That is the date when the shop first opened. And they’ve been doing things almost the very same way ever since.

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In addition to the multitude of tapered candles, they also have seasonal designs to delight their customers. Their Christmas collection is a personal favourite and a wonderful way to add some unique flair to your dining table. And since the candles only cost a few euros, apiece it’s a great gift to buy for your friends and family.

À la Mère de Famille | Paris, France

The world’s oldest chocolate shop stands on the cusp of the famous Montmartre neighbourhood in Paris. A la Mère de Famille opened in 1761 by Pierre-Jean Bernard. The gold lettering outside the shop shines in the sunlight and beckons visitors from down the road. The stunning typography, against that beautiful bright green paint, has stood the test of time and still looks like a gem in the centre of the neighbourhood.

Today there are 12 other branches of the chocolate store across the city, but this is the only one you should seek! It is by far the most beautiful, with its antique shelves still stacked with vintage jars and lovely old brass fittings that have barely changed in 260 years. One of the best times to visit the shop is during the holidays when the chocolatiers develop unique sweet creations to delight and devour.

The Oldest Sweet Shop | Pateley Bridge, England

There are some places whose name says it all, and the Original Old Sweet Shop in Pateley Bridge, England, is one of those places. They are the official World Guinness record holder for the oldest continuously trading sweet shop, opened in 1827. Glass jars line the shelves, containing brightly coloured sweets with antique labels.

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In addition to holding this record, they lean into the concept of selling retro sweets that bring a wave of nostalgia for many older visitors or for the younger generations are a chance to sample a piece of history. Many of these sweets use the original recipes and are even created using old copper pans.

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Dulceria de Celaya | Mexico City, Mexico

Dulcería de Celaya is a tiny, old shop selling traditional Mexican candies and sweets. It opened in Mexico City in 1874. Walking into the shop, nothing has changed in over 100 years. When the family-run shop opened, the candy was made in a small, improvised factory using wooden shovels, copper saucepans and a minature oven. They could only produce so much daily, often only one candy tray. But the sweets were so popular that they would sell out daily. As the demand rose, they expanded their production to meet the city’s needs.

Even today, they produce candy in the same way it was made in the beginning, out of that tiny kitchen. The smell of fresh pineapples, strawberries, guavas, and coconut fills the air when you walk in the doors. It’s intoxicating. The candy is very well-priced, so even if you don’t recognize anything, just let the smells guide you and try whatever your eye is drawn to.

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One of the best parts of Mexico City is its sheer size. While some people find this to be a downside, as it might feel overwhelming, I think it’s a huge plus! The various districts and neighbourhoods allow you to feel like you’re visiting a hundred different cities, all in one place. La Condesa is the peaceful botanical garden, Roma Norte is the hipster foodie quarter, Polanco is a luxury shoppers dream, Coyoacan is a bohemian wonderland and last, but not least, the Historic Center (Centro Historico) is the place where it all started! The streets in the Historic Center are brimming with ancient and colonial architecture. It is a place of discovery and authenticity. If you’ve never been to Mexico City before, you need to plan on spending at least one full day exploring this part of town.

Notes About This Guide

I go into lots of details about the different stops on our tour. Use the handy-dandy table of contents to jump to any particular area of interest if you want to skip or only visit some of the locations on this guided walk.

Table Of Contents

1. History of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan
2. How Long is this Tour?
3. Access
4. Map of Walking Tour
5. Alameda Central
6. Palacio de Bellas Artes
7. Metro Belles Artes
8. Palacio de Correos de México
9. Museo Nacional De Arte (MUNAL)
10. Cafe De Tacuba
11. Plaza de Santo Domingo
12. Old Customs Buildings
13. Palace of the Inquisition
14. Santo Domingo
15. Street Names in Mexico City
16. Secretariat of Public Education Main Headquarters
17. Palacio Nacional
18. West Side, Main Wall 
19. La Casa de las Sirenas
20. Templo Mayor Museum
21. History of the Temple
22. Mexico City Cathedral Metropolitan
23. Zócalo
24. The Old Government Buildings
25. Old Portal de Mercaderes
26. Gran Hotel Ciudad de México
27. Avenue Francisco I. Madero
28. Templo de San Felipe Neri La Profesa
29. Dulcería de Celaya 
30. Palacio de Iturbide
31. Church of San Francisco
32. Casa de Los Azulejos
33. Torre Latinoamericana
34. La Opera Bar
35. Azul Historico
36. Pastelería Ideal

History of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan

For centuries, the Historic Centre has been the beating heart of Mexico City. It was here, in this area, where the ancient Aztec city of Tenochtitlan once stood. The Aztecs of Tenochtitlan were incredible builders and city planners. They laid out the town in orderly streets, separated into four quarters. In between the streets were great canals that helped water and fertilizer their rich fields and crops. The roads and canal all meet at the grand Templo Mayor in the centre of the city. Inside the temple was the Palace of the Tlatoani (the Aztec emperor). Inside the temple, there was a large school called the Telpuchcalli which was used for secular studies, and a Calmecac that was used for priestly training.

Sadly, the beautiful ancient city of Tenochtitlan was destroyed with the arrival of the Spanish in 1519. They defeated the Aztecs and stole their land. The Spaniards tore down many of their temples and buildings and renamed the streets with Christain prefixes. In addition to the destruction of the city was the removal of their ingenious canal system. Little did the Spanish know, the removal of this modern method of bringing fresh water into the city would result in severe water shortages in the big city. A problem they are still struggling with to this very day! When the Spanish destroyed the Aztec city, they re-used many of the original stones to construct their colonial structures. So pay close attention as you walk; you never know where hidden ancient stones are ready to be found!

Modern History

Today the Historical Centre is spread across nine square km, occupies 668 blocks and contains over 9000 buildings! 1,550 of which have been declared of historical importance. Many of these historic buildings were constructed between the 16th and 20th centuries by the wealthy Spaniards. After a devastating earthquake in 1985, the historic district fell into disrepair. It suffered from overcrowding and pollution and was not an area that many people lauded as worth visiting.

In the 1980s Mexico City’s downtown district, with its modern towering steel architecture, was the big draw. No one had time back then for history, they sought after the future. But with the nostalgia creep of the 2000s, the Fundación Centro Histórico was founded to restore this area to its former glory. The foundation wanted to bring tourists back to the area to appreciate the beauty of these buildings and restore what Aztec history they could. A massive restoration went underway to fix the damage done by the earthquake, and more police presence was brought in to ensure safety for all visitors. Today, the area is back to its position as the central spot for visitors to this great city. Just as it was in the earliest days of its inception.

Notes on Safety

I’ve heard it all before, “But isn’t Mexico City so dangerous?! Aren’t there drug cartels everywhere?!” Honestly, I never felt unsafe when I was there, and I’ve visited multiple times. Mexico City is aware of its reputation. And despite the fact perhaps this reputation is more due to the bad press than actual tourist crime, the government has made great strides in increasing police presence. Especially in tourist areas to ensure that people feel as safe as possible.

In the end, it’s a big city, like any other big city around the world. Standard travel security practices are always encouraged. I would recommend the exact same thing whether you’re visiting Mexico City or Barcelona. And honestly, in Barcelona, I witnessed multiple pickpocketing attempts and one person I knew who had their wallet and passport stolen. In contrast, in Mexico City – I never had anything happen. Does that mean it won’t? Of course not, but I don’t think it deserve this reputation it has.

Be a Smart Traveller

• Don’t wear flashy jewellery or carry expensive handbags
• Keep your money in discreet, zipper pockets and don’t carry too much at one time
• Leave your passport in a safe at the hotel
• Stick to busy streets, well-lit streets
• Ensure your phone plan covers mobile data usage in Mexico. This is a lifesaver when it comes to calling a taxi or just using directions on google maps
• Avoid wandering around at night, instead, take a Uber from location to location
• Avoiding talking to strangers who approach you on the street. Often these are scammers either trying to distract you while they swipe your wallet or just sell you on something sketchy. Kindly just wave them off and continue walking on your way
• Someone strange won’t leave you alone? Walk inside a busy shop
• If you EVER feel unsafe, just call an Uber and you can get picked up and brought to somewhere familiar
• Skip the street taxis and use Uber or other car services instead to ensure a safe ride and reasonable price
• Avoid high-crime areas like Iztapalapa, Tepito, La Lagunia, La Merced, Doctores and Ciudad Neza
• I always carry a photocopy of my I.D. on me in case of emergencies
• Learn a bit of Spanish, goes a long way in many different scenarios

How Long is this Tour?

I would recommend spending an entire day here in the Historic Center. There is SO much to see and do. You could quickly return later to further explore the different art galleries and museums found here as well. And trust me, you’ll probably want to return for the food as well. So don’t worry if something is closed or if you don’t have the time to finish the entire tour. Missing out is just a good excuse to come back!

Access

The Historic District is bordered by the Zócalo to the east, the Paseo de la Reforma to the west, Insurgentes and Av. Juárez to the north and San Angel to the south. The best way to get around Mexico City (in my opinion) is by using Uber. Not only is Uber extremely safe, but you also don’t need to worry about getting ripped off. Fare are displayed upfront before confirming your ride. There is no fussing for cash either as you pay via a credit card stored on the app.

Rush hour traffic is REAL in Mexico City. Honestly, traffic is pretty dense throughout the entire day but it’s definitely worse before and after work hours. I would advise arriving at our starting location before 9 am to ensure you don’t have to deal with too much of the rush hour traffic.

There is also a metro station located right near our first stop. If you prefer to take public transit, that is definitely an option as well. The Metro in Mexico City is SUPER cheap and surprisingly easy to navigate. However, it is also hectic and crowded. The safety of the Metro system gets a mixed reputation. For the most part, I generally recommend Uber to ensure you have the most stress-free experience possible but if you decide to ride the metro just use all the safety tips listed above.

Map of Walking Tour

Alameda Central

Start your tour as early as you can manage inside the green acres of Alameda Central. This incredible urban oasis is the largest and oldest public park in the Americas. Despite being flanked by busy streets on all sides, when you are wandering inside the gorgeous green canopy of the park’s forest, you feel completely at peace.

History of Alameda Park

The site where the park now stands was once the location of the ancient Aztec marketplace. Today, you’ll still find different vendors bringing out their food carts serving tourists and locals alike. I feel like that same marketplace energy still exists here, just in a slightly different form.

The name for the park comes from the Spanish word “álamo,” which means “poplar tree.” Hundreds of these álamo trees were planted in the garden in 1592. Viceroy Luis de Velasco II ordered the creations of a new public green space for the city’s residents during the start of his regime. He saw the popularity of public green spaces in Europe and wanted the same criteria for his new city.

While the eastern portion of the park was for leisurely promenades, the west end of the park held a more nefarious purpose. This western section was originally built during the Mexican Inquisition. It was known as the “Burning Place.” It was here that convicted witches and people accused of treason were publicly burned at the stake. While you don’t immediately think of Mexico as a place of witch trials, these inquisitions spread worldwide. When the inquisitions ended in 1770, the burning plaza was destroyed and transformed into an extension of the park.

Park Monuments

Like many of the amazing parks in Mexico City, they are more than just trees. The precisely paved pathways lead you around decorative fountains, beautiful statues and incredible monuments. It feels like wandering around an outdoor art gallery. Each of the five fantastical fountains found throughout the park was made in France and were inspired by Greco-Roman mythology.

One of the most important monuments is the “Hemiciclo de Benito Juárez.” This large semi-circle of eight towering marble columns with a central plinth is topped with a group of neoclassical statues. In the center is statesman Benito Juárez himself. Juárez was the 26th president of Mexico and, most importantly, the first president of Mexico who was of indigenous origin. On either side of him are two allegorical female statues representing the fatherland and law. On the pedestal he sits, you can see the inscription “Al benemerito Benito Juárez la Patria.” This translate into “To the meritorious Benito Juárez, the Homeland.”

Over the years, the park has been of such important significance to the people of the city. Most importantly, the park was immortalized by Mexican artist Diego Rivera in his famous work Sundays on the Alameda Central. The mural depicts famous people and events in the history of Mexico, all together in one giant vibrant mural. You can still see this mural in the Museo Mural Diego Rivera located in the west end of the park. We won’t be stopping in there today, but later in the tour, we will see hundreds of paintings by Rivera located in-situ where they were first painted.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

Right next door to Alameda Park is the fantastical Palacio de Bellas Artes. The Palacio is doubtlessly one of the most impressive buildings in the historic district. Inside, you can listen to international symphonies, watch emotional ballets, become entranced by the theatre, awe at opera and even hear literature performances. Being a hub for all these performance arts gives the building its nickname, “the Cathedral of Art in Mexico.” 

Architecture 

The Palacio de Bellas Artes’ original design was conceived by Italian architect Adamo Boari. Boari wanted to create an entirely metallic structure, like the modern skyscrapers popping up in America. He loved the neoclassical and art nouveau styles as well and wanted the facade to follow those principles.

Although Boari started work on it in 1904, the building wouldn’t be completed until 1934. Problems with the soil and political unrest all contributed to halting any real progress. The situation was so volatile that Boari ditched the project and fled back to Italy. Mexican-born architect Federico Mariscal took over construction. Mariscal altered much of the design. The most substantial was the abandonment of the steel exterior. Instead, Mariscal used more traditional materials such as stone and carrier marble. But stone and marble are heavy and contribute to the fact that the poor Palacio is sinking into the soft ground a little more every year.

The Facade

The design of the facade is heavily influenced by classical European styles. The images and references don’t have any connection to the Mexican people or their culture. Despite the fact that the new architect was Mexican, he couldn’t change much of the exterior’s plan as the materials had already been purchased. But when we step inside, we can see Mariscal’s real vision for his Palacio.

Walking up to the Palacio, you can see four statues of the pegasuses being ridden by the four muses with Apollo in tow. Initially, these statues used to sit on top of the building. Their weight contributed to the sinking of the building, so they were removed and placed on the ground in the gardens surrounding the Palacio.

Inside the portals on the ground floor are a series of Italian sculptures. Each one depicting various allegorical figures relating to emotions that theatre and art aims to invoke in the viewer. Harmony, pain, rage, happiness, peace and love are all featured here in their mortal form.

One of the most impressive features of the building is the rainbow-hued rooftop cupola. This brightly coloured feature feels so appropriately Mexican, as they embrace colour whenever they can. It stands in such contrast to the white marble exterior designed by the Italian.

Interior Design

When you walk inside (which you can do for free if you just want a peek into the lobby) you can see the powerful Art Deco style that Mariscal dreamt up. Crawling up the sides of the building are sprawling murals surrounded by prehispanic motifs. You can see serpent’s heads curling around the window arches. Mayan deities and their masks, face out on the vertical columns. Even the marble inside is starkly different from the exterior. This marble is a darker and has a red hue giving the interior a more colourful appearance.

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Interior Murals

On the second floor (if you take a guided tour) you can see the incredible murals painted by José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Diego Rivera, Jorge González Camarena, Roberto Montenegro and Manuel Rodríguez Lozano. Outside the entrance to the amphitheatre are more bronze carvings of the Aztec and Mayan gods Tlaloc and Chaac (the gods of thunder and rain.)

Inside the auditorium, you can study the 200-foot Tiffany glass curtain designed by Mexican artist Gerardo Murillo aka “Dr. Atl.” The glass design represents the volcanos Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl. Surrounding them are images of the Mexican landscape. But to me, it is the heavenly sky above the landscape that is the most powerful aspect of the piece. The opalescent blues shimmer like the rainbow as the light catches it.

Interior Tour

Everywhere you look in the interior, there are artful representations of the Mexican people, their values and cultural references. It is 100% mandatory to poke your head inside to really soak in the views for yourself. If you just want to peek inside, the cost is free, but you’ll only be able to explore the lobby. The price of admission to the entire building is $60mxn per person + $30mxn camera fee if you want to take pictures. Usually, the line-up to get inside is very long, so if you have your heart exploring the interior, the earlier you get here, the better.

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Metro Belles Artes

Walk north along the Belles Artes building, parallel to the busy Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas. Walk until you reach the Belles Artes Metro station. Although we aren’t travelling on the Metro, this iconic Parisian station entrance is a must-see. The entrance arch was actually a gift from Paris’ Metro designed by French architect Hector Guimard. The French President Jacques Chirac gave it to Mexico City in 1998 in exchange for a Wixárika fresco, El pensamiento y el alma huicholes by artist Santos de la Torre. Today you can see this mural on display in the Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre Metro station in Paris.

Palacio de Correos de México

Walk back down to the Calle de Tacuba to admire the exterior of the Palacio de Correos de México (Postal Palace of Mexico City.) While it might seem strange to visit a post office, this one is truly spectacular. The Postal Palace of Mexico City was designed when the post office became a separate government entity. They wanted to show off their power and created a building with a very eclectic style to make it really stand out! It blended Art Nouveau, Spanish Renaissance Revival, Spanish Rococo style, Elizabethan Gothic, Elizabethan Plateresque and Venetian Gothic Revival all together. The architect of this Frankenstein creation was none other than Adamo Boari, who designed the Palacio Belles Artes. While you’d think trying to blend that all those styles together would result in a mess, it is anything but!

Construction started in 1902, and the building was finished in 1907. Although five years might seem like a while these days, for such a massive undertaking in the early 1900s it seems almost too quick! The frame of the building was designed on a grid of steel beams. This modern inner structure is why the Post Office managed to withstand many of the earthquakes that destroyed other buildings in the area. Military engineer Gonzalo Garita y Frontera supervised the construction of the steel frame. It is perhaps for this reason that the structure is so sound.

Exterior

One of the most iconic parts of the building is the colour of the stone. The stone is called “chiluca,” which has a slightly translucent effect and is exceptionally light in colour. This allows the heavy ornamentation to be juxtaposed by the airy feeling of the stone. The chiluca stone was quarried from the local Tulpetlac mines. This gives the building a bit of local flare despite the overall European-inspired architectural elements.

Decorating the facade is a mixture of Elizabethan Gothic styles. This period in architecture was dominated by twisting columns, heraldic elements, flowery crests, stone cherubs holding scrolls, gargoyles, hundreds of arches and hundreds (if not thousands) of ornamental balls. Highly polished brass and iron dragons, hanging off the side of the building, shine in the sunlight as you walk along the exterior.

One of the interesting details of the building is the windows that look out onto the street. Take a closer look and you’ll see that the windows on each level are all different designs. Each of these unique window styles is set inside a familiar arch. This gives the facade a more cohesive appearance despite all the different things going on.

Interior

Stepping inside, you are immediately taken aback. Just like the exterior, the interior is awe-inducingly covered in ornamentation. Filigree cresting surrounds the entire building like a living piece of ivy, spreading out from every corner and growing out of control. The marble floors glimmer and shine. They are polished to the point of looking like a mirror, so they reflect the radiant bronze ironwork on the window frames and staircases.

The main staircase descends down from two different directions from a central landing. The stairwell is bathed in bright sunlight from the large leaded glass dome that caps the top of the building.

Facing the staircase are a series of shields that crown the finishes of the interior arcade. These shields represent the various countries that were part of the Universal Postal Union at the beginning of the 20th century. This building is so iconic to Mexico that it inspired the design for the “Department of Family Reunions” in the Pixar film Coco.

Museo Nacional De Arte (MUNAL)

Back on Calle de Tacuba, opposite the Post Office admire the grandiose Museo Nacional De Arte. This museum is worth a visit if you have a little bit more time, but for our purposes today, we are just passing by. This building is a real sight to see. It is one of the most impressive neoclassical buildings in Mexico City, built in the 20th century. The building was initially used as the old Palace of Communications. It was designed to house the Secretariat of Communications and Public Works. Mexico City wanted to show the rest of the world that they were a modern city, and one of the best ways to do this was to building yourself a world-class museum. Today museum houses Mexican artworks from the late prehispanic era to the early 20th century.

Cafe De Tacuba

Continue walking along Calle de Tacuba until you reach the burgundy painted exterior of the Cafe de Tacuba. You most likely will be able to spot this place from afar because it almost always has a line! It’s the perfect spot to grab some breakfast or brunch as the line isn’t AS long in the morning. Café de Tacuba has been a hot spot here in the Historic District since 1912. The restaurant gained real notoriety in 1922 when Diego Rivera held his wedding reception to novelist Guadalupe Marín here. Rivera would divorce Marín and marry one of the most famous Mexican artists, Frida Khalo. Another notable event that took place here was the assassination of the local governor of Veracruz, Manlio Fabio Altamirano Flores. You might think such an event would put people off but it only increased the draw.

But it’s not just the history that brings people here. Aside from the amazing food, is the incredible interior design. The interior is covered in fantastical paintings from the pre-hispanic period. Vibrant mosaics and stained glass windows encircling the space make you feel like dining inside a museum. The entire menu here is based on classical dishes. Some of the best breakfast items include chicken tamales with green sauce, enchiladas Tacuba, Puebla style Garnacha, and hotcakes with honey.

Plaza de Santo Domingo

After filling up on breakfast, continue walking east and turn north up the República de Brasil. At the corner of the República de Cuba and the República de Brazil is the Plaza de Santo Domingo.The name of the plaza comes from its location right beside the church of the same name.

The land in the Santo Domingo Plaza was given to Captain Don Cristobal de Oñate, Gonzalo de Salazar and the Marquis of Villamayor after Mexico was conquered by the Spanish. These men all built their large, luxurious residences around this square. They wanted their homes to be in close proximity to the nearby customs office. They each controlled a massive naval fleet that brought goods in from other Spanish-occupied countries like the Philippines. This brought a considerable amount of income into the new colony and just like today, customs and taxes took up a lot of time. So it was nice to live so close to work.

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Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez

In the center of the plaza is a large circular fountain. In the center is a statue of Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez. Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez was a heroine of the Mexican War of Independence. She fought for the Mexican people and was a part of several conspiracies to overthrow Spanish rule. Ortiz de Dominguez would falsify documents in one of the 614 illegal print shops that spread across the plaza and surrounding area. Ortiz was eventually caught and found guilty. Instead of facing the gallows, as a woman, she was placed in a nunnery. She managed to secure a release if she promised to stop her efforts in the rebellion. Which, of course, she did not. Even in her old age, she aided several radical political groups involved in the independence movement. In 1910, Ortiz de Domínguez was the first woman to be depicted on a Mexican stamp!

On the west side of the plaza, you can see the Portal de Evangelistas leading into the church of Santo Domingo. Although this plaza is slightly farther away from the traditional tourist track, this little square is one of my favourites. It seems that whenever you visit, there is always some sort of festivities going on, and the entire plaza is adorned with brightly coloured decorations.

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Old Customs Buildings

Directly opposite the plaza is the burgundy awning which covers the facade of the Old Customs Buildings. The customs house was responsible for the taxation of all items imported and exported in “New Spain.” “New Spain” was the name for Mexico during the 17th century when the customs house was first established. The building you see today was the newly built version constructed in 1730. One of the reasons I adore Mexico City is that you can see such historic buildings that have been preserved so well. Eventually, the customs offices needed to be expanded. The building was left empty until the Secretary of the Public Education Department took over.

The structure is made from a very unique material only found here in Mexico. The stone is called “tezontle.” Tezontle is dark red and a porous volcanic rock. It was one of the most popular materials used at this time and gives all the buildings from that era a special texture and appearance. The white stone around the windows, balconies and doorways provides a beautiful contrast, almost highlighting the uniqueness of the tezontle.

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Palace of the Inquisition

Before heading into the west part of the plaza, look at the building on the corner of República de Brasil and República de Venezuela. This is the ancient Palace of the Inquisition. The building is notable for its dramatically “cut-off” corner facade facing Santo Domingo Plaza. The Mexican Inquisition was one of the darkest parts of Mexico’s heritage. Although everyone knows the famous “Spanish Inquisition”, their inquisitors also set up operations in their new colonies.

The Inquisitors were essentially a judicial institution that aimed to combat heresy. Heresy was considered an opinion profoundly at odds with what is generally accepted. And what was “generally accepted” was defined by the government of the time. Unlike the judicial system we have today that is based on fair trials and evidence, the inquisitors relied on brutal methods. This included torture, to get their “confessions” out of the accused. Often, this resulted in false confessions by the victims, as they would do anything just to get the pain to end.

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Mexican Inquisition

The first inquisitor to arrive in ‘New Spain’ was Pedro Moya de Contreras. He arrived in 1526 and immediately went about building a new monastery for his Dominican order. Right across the street from the Palace of the Inquisition he built the Church of Santo Domingo. At the time, the current Palace of the Inquisition was a part of the monastery where Contreras and the other inquisitors worked. Their first big case was in 1566 against Martin Cortes, son of Hernán Cortés. There were rumours that Martin Cortes wanted to make New Spain an independent colony. That would mean all the resources that Spain had gained by colonizing Mexico would be lost. Which was a no-go for the government.

But even more upsetting was the fact that instead of investigating Cortes himself, they went about brutally torturing his enslaved Creole workers. When they were found guilty, they were decapitated, and their home near the Templo Mayor was razed. The site was sown with salt, a typical practice on conquered cities to symbolize a curse on their re-inhabitation. Just more proof of how brutal the colonization of Mexico was.

Life after Inquisition

When the Inquisition was disbanded, the building was put up for sale, but no one wanted to buy it due to its horrific past. It was finally purchased by the local archbishop, perhaps as a pity bid, but the building passed hands many more times. That was until 1854 when it was sold to the School of Medicine. But the cursed nature of the building seemed to persevere. In 1873, the famed romantic poet Manuel Acuña committed suicide by poison inside the school. Today, despite the building converted into the University’s Museum of Medicine, you can still make out the coat-of-arms of the Inquisition on the facade. This is depicted on the crest with a cross, branch and sword.

Santo Domingo

Walking towards the west side of the Plaza, you’ll be able to admire the exterior of the great Church of Santo Domingo. The architecture found on this building is very precious as it is the last remaining monastery from the original ‘New Spain’ constructions. When the Spaniards arrived in Mexico in 1526, the Dominican orders immediately established houses of worship. But many churches needed to be rebuilt over the years. Architects from the new world didn’t know how to cope with the soft soil and earthquakes that plagued the area. The church uses mainly the same dark tezontle rock framed in white cantera stones.

The twelve columns on the facade of the church facing onto the square represent the twelve apostles. In the portals on the first floor, we can see Saint Francis and Saint Augustine. Above them, we can see Saint Dominic kneeling as he receives the keys to the kingdom from Saint Peter and Saint Paul. There is a more miniature bas relief carving of the Assumption set between two small choir windows on the top level.

Street Names in Mexico City

Walk along the Republica de Columbia and then back south down Republica de Argentina. You might have started to notice a pattern surrounding the street names in this area. Most of them were named after Latin American countries. Brazil, Chile, and Argentina are all given their own streets. But this wasn’t originally the case. These street names were revised from the original wording in the 1920s by President Alvaro Obregon. During this time, Mexico was in the middle of a bloody revolution. Representatives from these other Latin American countries were sent to Mexico to help President Alvaro Obregon in the uprising. The renaming of the streets was seen as a sign of gratitude towards these countries. But it meant erasing the original naming conventions and with it their history.

In the Historical Centre, you’ll also find streets named after important dates in the country’s history. Cinco de Mayo and 16 de Septiembre are just two of those famous examples. Cinco de Mayo is the commemoration of the Battle of Puebla in 1862, when the French triumphed briefly over the French.

The 16th of September is also known as the “Cry of Dolores” day. On September 16th, 1810, the church bells (known as Dolores) rang as a call to arms that triggered the start of the Mexican War of Independence.

Trade Streets

Since the dawn of Tenochtitlan, Mexico City has been a hub for tradesmen and craftspeople. Many of these trade guilds were given a particular street to work out of. That street was therein known as the “metal workers street” or “shoemakers street.” Even today, in the shopping districts in the Historical Center, this trend of grouping businesses together still exists. You’ll pass a block where you’ll only find fabric stores, or button sellers, or goldsmiths. There is even an entire block dedicated to party decorations!

Cities and Authors

Various districts and neighbourhoods in Mexico City chose their own thematic naming conventions. In the Historical Center, in addition to the names of Latin American cities, we also see streets named after famous military generals like General Molinos del Campo, General Zuaza, General Leon, and General Gomez Pedraza. Roma Norte‘s streets are named after Mexican cities and states. Colonia Juarez contains streets named after international cities. You’ll find Calle Londres (London), Calle Tokio (Tokyo), Amsterdam Avenue, Calle Liverpool, Oslo Street, Hamburg Street, and even Florencia! Colonia Cuauhtémoc on the north side of the Reforma has streets named after rivers; Rio Nilo, Rio Po, Rio Tigris, Rio Elba, Rio Amazonas and Rio Sena. In the upscale area of Polanco, you’ll find the area dotted with streets named after famed men of thought and letters like; Parque Lincoln, Calle Socrates, Avenue Homer, Oscar Wilde, Schiller, Tennyson and more!

Secretariat of Public Education Main Headquarters

The large building that now houses the Secretariat of Public Education Main Headquarters is spread over an entire city block. The main facade faces out onto Republica de Argentina. This side has a completely different look than the older parts of the building we saw previously facing the Plaza Santo Domingo. This modern extension has a classical Greek design featuring Ionic pilasters and sharp lines. On top there is a large stone sculpture of the Greek gods; Apollo, Minerva, and Dionysus. Beside the greek statues are two sets of Aztec and Spanish-style weapons. The entrance to the building is marked by three large metal grilles with the initials “SER” on the front. This stands for the “Secretariat de Education Publica.“

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Diego Rivera Murals

Walk through the iron gates to enter the open-air courtyard. You’ll usually see two armed guards on either side of the doors. Since this is still a government office, they take security seriously. Tell them you are there to visit the Diego Rivera murals. If there aren’t any private events going on inside the courtyard the guards will usually let you right in but might do a quick security check of any bags you might be carrying. Inside the doors, you’ll enter the first of two large adjoining courtyards. Covering the walls of the courtyard are 235 panelled murals painted by none other than Diego Rivera. This was Rivera’s first large-scale painting project.

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Rivera and Vasconcelos

Although born in Mexico, Rivera had travelled to Paris and Italy to study under great masters like Pablo Picasso. He returned to Mexico to participate in a new mural program started by the Secretary of Public Education, José Vasconcelos. Vasconcelos thought that art was a powerful tool for education. He went about commissioning large-scale mural projects across the city to bring art to the public. This project took place after the great Mexican Revolution. The air was to use art to help communicate to the people that this new government would guarantee the new life promised by the revolution.

Like many of his contemporaries, Rivera believed that “easel painting” was considered too aristocratic. He and his contemporaries believed that large, public murals could reach a larger, broader audience. Art didn’t need to be hidden away inside stuffy museums or only appreciated by those with a critical eye. Art was for everyone.

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Education Mural Themes

Rivera started work on the murals in 1923, and it took the painter five years to complete. Despite the overly Greek-influenced exterior, these murals focused powerfully on the Mexican identity. It followed themes of the Mexican Revolution and the glorification of the dedicated Mexican labourers. His themes are divided by the two courtyards. The larger courtyard focuses on “Labour,”and the smaller courtyard is dedicated to the “Fiesta.” Unlike so much of the European influence covering the colonial parts of the city, these murals focused on the regular Mexican people.

Fiesta Courtyard

The smaller Fiesta Courtyard is the first one you’ll enter. Here there are murals on the ground floor depicting various meaningful events in the Mexican calendar. You’ll see scenes from the Deer Dance, the Day of the Dead, the Corn Fiesta, the Meeting on May 1st, Good Friday and the Ribbon Dance.

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Walk up the stairs to the second level, where you can view one of the most important of Rivera’s murals called “The Arsenal.” This massive painting portrays a group of revolutionaries preparing for battle. In the center, you can see the image of a young woman in red wearing the communist star on her shoulder. The woman who posed for this painting is none other than Rivera’s future wife, Frida Kahlo. Hovering above the murals, Rivera painted a sprawling red banner connecting one piece to the other. The text written upon it are words to revolutionary songs called “corridos.”

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Labor Courtyard

The larger courtyard surrounds a beautiful green garden full of lush foliage. In this area, you can see scenes depicting Mexican labourers. You’ll find images of mineworkers, sugar mill labourers, craftspeople using looms and dying fabric, smelters working the oven, and busy farmers selling their goods in the marketplace.

On the second floor staircase, are a series of murals highlighting Mexico’s diverse landscape from the bright blue coasts to the dense mountains. The murals on the second level here are dedicated to what Rivera considered the four primary elements of painting. These are light, colours, man and geometry.

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Palacio Nacional

To finish off our tour of Diego Rivera’s mural, a visit to the Palacio Nacional (National Palace) is in order. The Palacio Nacional is an enormous museum with so much to see and do. But for our purposes, we are just entering to see the courtyard murals. Once we arrive at the Zocalo, we will speak a little bit more about the grand facade but for the time being, let’s go inside to get a look at the courtyard.

Entrance to the National Palace is free, although there is usually a long lineup to get inside. You need to leave a piece of ID with the guards at the door. Since the Palace is still home to the offices of the Mexican President, security is critical. They need to control the number of people and keep track of exactly who is inside. Entrance to the National Palace can be found on Moneda Street.

History of the Palace

The site of the building was once home to Moctezuma II’s Palace. His grand residence was built in 1521. When Cortés first visited the Palace, he described it as having a surprising array of riches. The walls were made of marble, and the facade contained a carved shield of Mexico’s iconic eagle with the snake in its claws. Inside, the building was very modern, with sanitary facilities, fountains, gardens, bedrooms with rich tapestries of rabbit fur and feathers. In addition to being a royal residence for the rulers of the Aztec city, it was also a meeting place for the elder tribe members. Here disputes and discussions would take place to ensure the wealth and happiness of their people.

Sadly, after the invasion by the Spanish, Cortés seized the residence from the Aztecs and used it as his own home. Passing it down to his son in later years. The Palace suffered a devastating fire in 1692 that destroyed much of the original structure. Many of the original stones that could be recovered were used in the reconstruction efforts. However, the design of the new Palace was a much different style. This one was styled in the Baroque fashion of the time. It seemed that over time, every generation added their own touch to the building. And now, it looks more like a patchwork quilt of the ages. 

History of Mexico Mural

Walking inside the National Palace, follow the signs for the ‘History of Mexico Murals.’ These can be found within the great courtyard, surrounded by Baroque arches. Walk up to the main stairwell, where you’ll immediately be struck by this immense masterpiece. The mural depicts the history of Mexico from the dawn of human existence through to the 1920s. Rivera started work on this mural in 1929, many years after his first mural project. The precision and confidence in his technical skills and expressive style are evident in this work of art. Rivera was decisive in using his art to communicate his ideologies about communism and the decisive rejection of the colonizers. He wanted to bring the crimes of the part clearly into the people’s minds to ensure these atrocities were never forgotten.

The main message of the mural surrounds the indigenous Mexican people’s struggles to preserve their culture, National identity and country against the brutal colonizers. Standing at the base of the stairwell, take a minute to appreciate the sheer grandeur of the entire piece. So much of the story is a sad one—a classic tale of good vs. evil. The goodly indigenous Mexicans had one of the most vibrant cultures. Yet, they were practically wiped out by the evil, invading Europeans.

If you squint and look at the entire piece as a whole, the bright colours and expressive shapes look powerful, hopeful and strong, just like the Mexican people. Despite the horrors of the past, the post-revolution population believed in the future of their country. Especially as it became an independent nation. And that their strength and perseverance over the years was what would conquer evil and allow their great country to prosper.

North Wall 

Walk up the stairs to the landing in the center, and look up at the left side, or North Wall. This part of the mural depicts the indigenous Mexican’s long before the arrival of the Spaniards. They are surrounded by the fantastical Mexican landscape all around them. The blue is almost heavenly above—the large bright sunshine above, casting all of them in celestial light. The Aztecs believed in the sun god, as can be seen in the all-seeing eyes painted onto the sun’s face. Just below the sun, you can also see an erupting volcano with Xiuhtecuhtli‘s “the Lord of Fire” exploding from the mouth of the volcano. In the sky flies Quetzalcoatl, the Feathered Serpent deity and god of the wind and the rain.

The Valley of Mexico is spread out along the horizon, with its amazing pyramids towering above the people. Standing in front of the pyramids are the Aztec leaders, guiding and looking after their citizens. In the left corner, you can see a small battle scene between two tribes. This violence was a common occurrence in any civilization but the cultural costumes worn by the different tribes is what makes this little vignette so interesting. 

Farmers are tending to vivid corn crops, almost as bright as gold. Craftspeople in the lower right-hand side of the mural are busy weaving, making pottery, playing music, painting and writing on scrolls. This just shows what a modern civilization they had full of technology, art and even science! They were the farthest thing from “savages” as was reported by the violent Spanish colonizers.

West Side, Main Wall 

We move from the north wall’s idyllic memories to the densely packed and violent images of the west wall. This is the mural straight ahead as you walk up the main stairs. It is the battle of the Mexican people against their oppressors. A story of hatred and war, woven into the fabric Mexico’s history.

Lower Level Depictions

The lower part of the mural is riddled with images of Mexicans and Indians clamouring to fight against the heavily armoured calvary of the Spanish and French attackers. The beautiful and bright feathered costumes of the Aztec leaders, crushed and fallen under the feet of their enemies. Cortez himself can be seen in the middle of the painting, as he is the only mounted soldier with his face exposed. The rest of the attacker’s helmets are closed but Rivera paints Cortez with his helmet raised so his actions are not anonymous.

Cortez’s armies have modern weaponry making their defeat of the Aztecs a foregone conclusion. Despite them being outgunned and outnumbered, the Aztecs fought valiantly against the Spanish as seen on the right and let corners. All the while, the Aztecs are being watched over by a great golden eagle in the center. The eagle sits perched atop a cactus with a serpent in its mouth. The design of this symbol is rooted in the legend that the Aztec people would build their great city in the spot where they found an eagle eating a snake on top of a cactus. They called that place Tenochtitlan (Mexico City), and to them, it was worth fighting for.

Middle Depictions

In the middle of the mural, we see the horrors brought to Mexico by the Spaniards. Not only did they want to conquer the land, but they also wanted to abolish the Aztec religion. The Inquisition went about burning sacred books and religious imagery. You can see these fires burst out across the wall. Priests on the left-hand side can be seen forcefully converting the indigenous people to their new religion of Chrsitiniarity. The Spanish turned many natives into slaves, and it was these hard-working people who were the actual creators of this “new world.”

Upper Arch Depictions

Under the five arches at the top of the wall are the various rulers of Mexico. Interesting to note is Rivera’s use of non-hierarchical representation. No one man is larger than the other. While some people think makes the mural more challenging to interpret or read, it is part of Rivera’s communist ideologies of equality.

Starting from the left, we see the French Rule and execution of Austrian Emperor Maximilian in 1867. Next to that, we see images of the Porfirian Era. This era was coloured with a brutal dictatorial rule accomplished through a combination of consensus and repression. In the central arch, we see depictions of Independence and the Mexican Revolution. At the very top of the frame, you can see a man with a mustache carrying a large red banner. This is revolutionary Emiliano Zapata, who was one of the leading men in the Revolution. The red flag says “Tierra y Libertad,” which means “Land and Liberty.”

To the right we see images from the Reform and Juarez era. Benito Juarez was Mexico’s only Indigenous president and considered the founder of the new Mexican nation. Finally, on the far right, we have the invasion of Mexico by the US. Aabove the invading US army is the great eagle flying down to attack.

South Wall

The south wall to the left of the main stairwell depicts the future of the Mexican people. The imagery represents the ideals of progress, prosperity and hope for a better future. At the top of the mural is the image of Karl Marx holding his great Communist Manifesto on a large scroll. To the right of this is a man flying the Soviet flag. When the mural was painted, the Mexican people and Rivera himself had solid socialist tendencies and the Soviet flag can be seen throughout imagery from this era.

To the right of Karl is a scene of Mexican workers. They are being attacked and oppressed by a group of police wearing large gas masks. This scene takes place in front of the silhouette of Mexico City’s skyline. While the other two murals are more fluid in their collage-like design, this mural is framed in harsh geometric, metal beams. Inside these almost cage-looking rectangles are pictorial representations of what Rivera saw as negatives social forces in high society. 

At the bottom of the painting, is the image of a woman dressed in bright red. Look closely at her face to see if you can recognize the model. It is none other than his wife, Frida Kahlo. Frida holds in her hands a copy of the Marxist manifesto and is engaged in a political rally. Very similar to her real-life political activism. Above her is another similar-looking woman. This is Frida’s sister Cristina, with whom Rivera had an affair during his marriage to Frida.

Second Level

On the second level of the courtyard patio are 11 additional murals painted by Rivera. These are continuations of the history but highlight particular scenes that Rivera found to be important during the pre-Hispanic era. These murals were not finished, and it’s interesting to see them as works in progress captured in time.

La Casa de las Sirenas

It’s time to go and grab something to eat to power us up for the rest of the day. Exit the National Palace the way you came and turn left along Moneda Street and then north up Seminario. This street leads right up to the entrance of historic Restaurante, La Casa de las Sirenas. If you look up this restaurant on Google, it will send you to the wrong address. Be sure to come directly to the building on República de Guatemala at #32. The best part of this restaurant is its incredible view of the Templo Mayor and the National Palace, as it sits in the shadow of the great Metropolitan Cathedral. If you can request reservations in advance, be sure to ask for a seat on the terrace as the view from there is unbeatable.

History of the Casa de las Sirenas

The other reason to eat here? Over 500 years of history steeped within the walls. The buildings along this street, initially named “Calzada a Tlacopan,” were some of the first lots handed out by Hernán Cortés to new Spanish landlords. The buildings were constructed using stones from the old Aztec pyramids, which were destroyed after the Spanish invasion. You can still see those dark-red volcanic stones embedded in the facade. On either side of the incredibly detailed frieze on the terrace are carvings of two mermaids. They sit proud, with their tails unfurled, giving the house the name “Casa de las Sirenas.” In 1994 the house was established as a restaurant and the owner and architect Nicolás Salas Villagómez went about restoring all the original details of the house.

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The menu consists of traditional ingredients and classic recipes. That being said, it’s clear the menu is geared more towards tourists. The selection felt a little simplified, mostly like to suit a foreign palette. But nonetheless, it was all delicious! If you’ve never had traditional mole before, the one here is superb. But what you really come here for is the atmosphere, the good food is just a plus!

Taquería Tlaquepaque

If you’re looking for a cheaper alternative for lunch, make a quick detour over to Taquería Tlaquepaque. Taquería Tlaquepaque is your best budget option. This street taco establishment serves up plenty of options. But the very best one, in my opinion, is the tacos Al Pastor served with onions and pineapples atop a pile of roasted pork. Such a perfect sweet and salty combination.

Templo Mayor Museum

Directly across from the restaurant are the remains of the ancient Templo Mayor. Over the years, after many successful excavations and archeological digs, much of this historic site has been uncovered. It is now able to be viewed once more by the public inside the Templo Mayor Museum. The museum is definitely worth visiting as it displays some of the most significant treasures and relics of the great Aztec people. I would advise returning here on another day as a proper walk-through takes about 2-4 hours to explore. For our tour, the most exciting details of the ruins can be viewed from the street without going inside.

History of the Temple

The entire modern metropolis of Mexico City was built atop the ruins of the ancient Aztec city of Tenochtitlan. In the center of Tenochtitlan was the Templo Mayor, the city’s primary temple complex. The temple’s original name, in the native Nahuatl language, was Huēyi Teōcalli. According to legend, the temple was located where the god Huitzilopochtli gave the Mexican people the sign that they had reached the promised land. This sign was that iconic image of an eagle on a cactus with a snake in its mouth.

This great pyramidal temple was first built in 1325. Unlike Egyptian pyramids, which were primarily large tombs meant only for the Pharaohs, these pyramids were a big part of the life of the city. They were composed of four slopped terraces with secret passages inside. On the top of the pyramid was a flat platform where two temples were located. These were dedicated to Huitzilopochtli, god of war, and Tlaloc, god of rain and agriculture.

Inside the temple were the large idols of each god. They were made of amaranth seeds which was a traditional sculptural material in the pre-hispanic era. The seeds were stuck together with honey and even human blood to form the shape of the god. The blood was always given by willing human sacrifices as they wanted to donate a part of themselves to the god. These human sacrifices shocked Cortés when he first visited Tecnochiland. It was one of the events which added to his disdain of their beliefs and led him to think they were a “savage” culture.

The Discovery of the Temple

In 1521, after the invasion of the Spanish, the temple and the rest of the Aztec buildings were destroyed. The Spanish used the site as a spot for their new Cathedral. Hundreds of years past and many people completely forgot about it until it was nothing more than legend. But in 1978, when an electric company was undertaking some excavation work in the area, they discovered these incredible ruins underground. Back then, 19th-century colonial buildings covered the plot of land under which the ruins were hiding. The government of the time thankfully saw the importance of the archaeological site to be of far greater significance than the colonial buildings. They were demolished, and a massive undertaking began, working to uncover the ruins and preserving the treasure found within.

The parts of the temple we can see today are elements of the base of the pyramid and the slope upon which the rest of the pyramid would have travelled. Large sculptures of the gods jut out from the base of the temple. Still to this day, even after being buried underground, you can make out the bright colours that they were painted with when they were first created. These Aztec towns were a rainbow-hued metropolis and a sight to see to be sure.

Mexico City Cathedral Metropolitan

The crowning glory of the Historic Center of Mexico City is the enormous Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary into Heavens. The stone monument dominates the border of the huge Plaza del Zócalo. While its full name is “Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary into Heavens,” it also goes by the much shorter nickname “Metropolitan Cathedral” or “Mexico City Cathedral.” The enormous church has stood here for over 400 years, being constructed from the literal bones (or stones) of the Templo Mayor.

The towering ornate church is considered one of the masterpieces of Mexican architecture and is Latin America’s largest and oldest cathedral. If you’re visiting Mexico City, you absolutely need to make a stop inside! Explore the interiors and wonder at the amazing monuments, chapels, architecture and incredible atmosphere found inside the Mexico City Cathedral. I have an entire guided tour of the Cathedral to help you better understand all the different aspects of its history and architecture. It’s pretty in-depth since I truly think it is one of the most spectacular places to visit. But if churches aren’t your thing (which I totally get), you can just poke your head inside and head back out to the Zocalo.

Zócalo

Across the Cathedral is the huge public square, called the Zócalo or Plaza de la Constitución. Every great city has got to have their triumphant main square. Whether it’s St Mark’s in Venice or the Red Square in Russia, you need to have a large central meeting place for your citizens and annual celebrations. The word “Zócalo” means “plinth” or “base.” When the square was first built, there was plans for a large monument to be installed in the center. But only the plinth was ever built. So it began to go by that nickname. The nickname Zocalo caught on for all future public squares around Mexico despite them having no connection to an actual plinth on site.

The Aztec Zocalo

Before the Spanish conquest, the square was used by the Aztec people just as they use it today. As an open space for the people. Back then it was surrounded by Moctezuma II’s Palace to the east and the great Templo Mayor to the north. It sat in the center of what was when the intersection of all the roads that met in the middle of Tenochtitlan.

The Spanish Zocalo

Shortly after the invasion in 1521, the Spanish immediately went about transforming the area around the square. But for the most part, they left the Zocalo much unchanged as open-air squares were already famous in Europe and a necessity for big cities. Over the years, market stalls began to pop up around the square. Although I think the idea of a colossal square bustling with vendors sounds exciting, historian Francisco Sedano thought the spectacle was ugly and unsightly. He claimed it was, “very difficult to walk around here at the time because of its uneven pavement, mud in the rainy season, aggressive street dogs, mounds of trash and human excrement tossed among the corn husks and other discarded wrappings.“

Insisting the “unsightly” local vendors should be removed, the government installed a “Parián” in the southwest part of the square. The Parián was a small, stone warehouse where international products, brought in through trade, were sold. This new warehouse meant that local produce and crafts were pushed by the wayside in exchange for foreign products that outweighed the importance of the indigenous Mexican economy. During the Mexican Wars of Independence, the Parián was seen as another symbol of the colonizers. It was target #1 and destroyed during a large riot in 1828.

Celebrations, Rallies and Riots

As the square sits right in front of local government building, it is a popular spot for protests and rallies. But it is equally a place for expression and celebration. Festival de México is an annual event with programs dedicated to Mexican art held in the Zócalo. During the Day of the Dead celebrations, this square becomes filled with orange decorations, colourful floats, music stages, and more!

Grito de Dolores

Walk over to the east side of the square to look up at the facade of the Palacio National, which flanks this side of the square. It is here, every year on September 16th, better known as Independence Day, that celebrations start in Mexico City begin. Since 1821, the President of Mexico will walk out onto the balcony on the National Palace facing the square filled with crowds of people.

Once outside, he will ring the bell, which hangs in a small niche above the doorway. This bell once marked the first call to arms during the Mexican War for Independence and it still serves as a call to the people today. The president will then shout out to the people in the square, “Viva Mexico!” A cry echoed throughout the jam-packed Zocalo. This is called the “Grito de Dolores” or”the Cry of Dolores”. While it was once a rallying cry for the end of Spanish rule, today it is a cry for racial equality and the redistribution of indigenous land

The niche above the bell is topped by a great carving of the Mexican Coat of arms. The niche is flanked on either side by images of an Aztec eagle knight and his Spanish counterpart. Symbols of the ruling dynasties which once occupied the Palacio.

The Old Government Buildings

Looking south of the Zocalo, two identical buildings sit across facing the square. These are the official Government Administration buildings. The one on the right is the Old Town Hall (Palacio de Ayuntamiento) and one on the left is just called the Government Building (or Edificio De Gobierno). The Old Town Hall is much more bejewelled in its baroque architecture, while the Government Building is a simple, neoclassical design. While the Old Town Hall’s foundations dates back to the 16th century, the Government Building was a 20th-century invention. It was designed as a mirror image to the Old Town Hall, creating a wonderfully symmetrical appearance to that side of the square.

Palacio de Ayuntamiento

When Hernán Cortés took power in Mexico City, he wanted to immediately install a series of large governmental buildings surrounding the Zocalo. This was a sign of his dominance over the country. He also thought this would prevent indigenous people from building up around this central hub. The Old Town Hall would be located on the south side of the Zocalo. Construction was finished in 1527 under master architects Pedro de Arrieta and José Miguel Álvarez. But the first incarnation of the building was destroyed during the riots and fires of the 17th century uprising.

The new design we see today follows the baroque and neoclassical styles popular at the time. On the lower level, there is a series of wide arches for pedestrians to pass under. Floral carvings twirl around the architectural elements creating a highly textured facade. Walk under the arches of the Old Town Hall to admire the brightly coloured Talavera tile which wrap around the building. In the center of some of the tiles are painted murals depicting scenes of the founding of the city. 

Edificio De Gobierno

The Edificio De Gobierno follows the same overall design, but the heavy ornamentation has been omitted. Instead, we see a more simplistic, neo-classical style. Both buildings have a series of Doric, Ionic and Corinthian columns repeating along each level. Many of these design choices can be seen in the surrounding buildings in the Zocalo. But this isn’t just a coincidence or even just a common thread. This uniform look of the square was a government-mandated directive implemented in the 19th century. The government hoped that by enforcing this neocolonial style of architecture, the square would have a more unified and cohesive appearance. 

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Old Portal de Mercaderes

Continue along under the archway under the government building towards the west until you reach the southwest parkette in the corner of the Zocalo. Across the street, facing the west side of the square is the Old Portal de Mercaderes or Old Merchant Portal. From the earliest days of the Zolcalo, vendors occupied the area selling food, silks, fruits, medicinal herbs, and other merchandise. These vendors rented the space from the landowner Don Rodrigo de Albornoz, the Count of Santiago, and secretary to King Carlos V.

Flooding throughout the years around the Zocalo meant much of the original buildings were destroyed. They were thereafter reconstructed in the mid 17th and 18th centuries by the Albornoz family. Despite modern reconstructions, the buildings continued to use the traditional red volcanic tezontle stones and cantera marble. This meant the building’s facade was still in keeping with the rest of the Zocalo’s buildings. The street-level arcade operates to this day as a famous shopping street. The area is better known as the Centro Joyero or the Jeweler Center as it has become a hub for the cities most popular goldsmiths.

Gran Hotel Ciudad de México

Find your way to 16 de Septiembre Street and walk along, past a few shops, until you find the entrance to Gran Hotel Ciudad de México. Although I don’t generally recommend staying in the Historical Center (mainly because it feels more like staying inside the tourist hub), if you have your heart set on this area of town, THIS is the hotel you MUST choose. The rooms are pretty standard, but you get to stay in this gorgeous piece of history. If you get a room with a view out to the Zocalo, you can’t beat it for people-watching opportunities. The rates are shockingly affordable, so it’s well worth checking out.

While the hotel is adjoined to the larger Old Portal de Mercaderes building, its facade is unique to its location along Septiembre street. The high neoclassical style was preserved along with their iconic green wrought-iron balconies. The origins of the building date back to 1526. Back then, the building was constructed as a residence for the Royal Accountant, Rodrigo de Albornoz. It passed hands a few times through the ages, and in 1895, it was purchased by Frenchman Sebastian Robert. Robert’s had the idea to modernized Mexico City’s shopping scene and built its first large-scale department store right here in 1899. 

Centro Mercantil

In this modern department store, named the ‘Centro Mercantil,’ wealthy aristocrats could come and buy everything in one convenient location. Everything from luxurious fabrics, custom hats, expensive jewelry or imported perfumes. The European trend of “high tea” was also brought to Mexico City around this time. Visitors to the Centro Mercantil could enjoy this new trend right there in the opulent lobby cafe. The creme-de-la-cream of Mexico City would be seen walking through the doors, everyone from writers to composers, poets and of course, politicians. It was the who’s who of high society.

Back then, shopping malls weren’t the characterless places they are today. Back then, to draw in affluent customers, department store were lavishly decorated works of art. Robert’s designed the interior in the fashionable Art Nouveau style. Walking inside is like walking into a jewellery box. Hanging above your head as you walk up the stairs is the enormous Louis XV-style chandelier. Its crystals gently tinkling in the wind from the open doorways.

On either side of you, as you emerge from the staircase into the foyer, are two ornate gold canary cages decorated with brightly coloured flowers. But they aren’t just for display, they still hold canaries to this day. Standing in the center of the lobby is the cage-like elevator. This was the first panoramic elevator ever installed in Mexico.

Tiffany Glass Dome

The room absolutely beams with light descending down from the incredible stained-glass dome towering above you. The ceiling was designed by French artisan Jacques Grüber using the illusive Tiffany glass. This is actually one of the four largest Tiffany glass pieces which remain anywhere in the world! Over 20,000 pieces of vibrantly tinted glass were made to create this masterpiece.

Interior

The beautiful wrought-iron railings on the first three floors swell around the lobby like a wave. The use of iron to create the room’s structure was called “Chicago style.” The Centro Mercantil was the first building in Latin American to use the technique. These undulating designs were a replica of the ones inside the famous Au Bon Marché department store in Paris. Au Bon Marché is now lost to time, so the fact we can still see a piece of it today, preserved in this architecture is a real treat. Along the railings, you’ll see the monogram “CM” and “SR” repeated. The “SR” stands for Sebastian Robert, the store owner and the “CM” of course stands for the “Centro Mercantil.”

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Conversion to Hotel

The Centro Mercantil officially closed its doors in 1958. It wasn’t converted into a hotel until 1968. 1968 was one of the most famous eras in Mexico City’s modern history when the Summer Olympics came to the country. The Olympics meant thousands of new visitors to the city. To accommodate the crowds, more hotels needed to be built. These hotels were meant to create a positive impression on the international tourists. The city went about finding artful and iconic buildings that could be converted to wow the visiting athletes.

Avenue Francisco I. Madero

Exit the hotel and head along Calle de la Palma until you reach the pedestrian street Avenue Francisco I. Madero. While today the street is very touristy with many international chains dotting the shop fronts, there are still many historical buildings to see along the way. You just need to know where to look. The street is named after the great Francisco Ignacio Madero González. Madero was a Mexican revolutionary, writer, statesman and the 37th president of Mexico. Sadly, Madera was assassinated in 1913, only two years into his Presidency.

Templo de San Felipe Neri La Profesa

One block down the street, on your right, you’ll find the La Iglesia de la Casa Profesa or more commonly “La Profesa.” The church was the first Jesuit building in Mexico City, established in 1578. Sadly, much of the original design was demolished during the great flood of 1629. The current building is nonetheless impressive, dating back to 1714. Its architecture style marks the beginning of the ultra-baroque trend of the 18th century which exploded throughout Mexico City.

Art Collection

Stepping inside, take some time to admire the paintings on the walls. The church is home to one of the largest collections of colonial-era religious images. On display inside the church, see if you can find the painting of “The Virgin of the Pópulo” by Juan Correa, Baltasar de Echave Orio‘s depiction of “The Pentecost”, and best of all “the Crucifixion” by José Juárez above the altar. They have such an extensive collection of art that there is even an adjoining art gallery where the remainder of their collection is on view.

The Political Side of La Profesora

While a church might not seem like a place where political plots were cultivated, this church has served over the years as the location for many an uprising. During the Mexican War of Independence, “La Profesa Conspiracy” took shape inside these walls. Perhaps the church acted as a place of sanctuary where the rebels felt they would be safe from attack. It was here that those who opposed the republican government and supported Agustín de Iturbide met and discussed their plans to make him the emperor of Mexico. In recent years, it was here that the discussions around the beatification of Juan Diego also began.

Dulcería de Celaya 

Make a quick stop up the street at Dulcería de Celaya where you can grab yourself some delicious Mexican candies. Dulcería de Celaya is a tiny, old shop selling traditional Mexican candies and sweets since 1874. Walking into the shop, it feels like nothing has changed in over 100 years. When the family-run shop first started selling candy, it was made in a small, improvised factory using wooden shovels, copper saucepans and a minature oven. They could only produce so much per day, often only one tray of candy. But the sweets were so popular that they would sell out day after day. As the demand rose, they managed to expand their production to meet the needs of the city.

Even today, they produce candy in much the same way as it was made in the beginning, still out of that tiny kitchen. When you walk in the doors, the smell of fresh pineapples, strawberries, guavas and coconut fills the air. It’s intoxicating. The candy is very well priced, so even if you don’t’ recognize anything, just let the smells guide you and try whatever your eye is drawn to.

Palacio de Iturbide

Head back down to Madera street until you reach the Palacio de Iturbide, just before the Calle de Filomeno Mata. Surrounded on either side by modern buildings, this ancient structure really stands out. The Palace was built in 1779 as a wedding gift from Count of San Mateo Valparaíso to his daughter. Apparently, the Count was worried his daughter’s new husband was going to squander his daughter’s dowry. So instead, the Count built the house using the entirety of the dowry to ensure the new husband wouldn’t be able to lose it.

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Agustín de Iturbide, the Mexican army general and politician, lived here during the Mexican War of Independence from Spain. And it was actually inside the Palace where he accepted the crown of the First Mexican Empire. Because of this seminal moment, the building earned the nickname the “Palace of Iturbide“. The building is made out of that iconically Mexican tezontle and cantera stone. The facade was designed in a high gothic style featuring organic and geometric motifs such as flowers, vines, leaves, and even a mermaid. On either side of the entrance are two graceful male figures that look almost as though they are holding up the balcony above.

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Church of San Francisco

Further along the street, on your left, is the large stone archway and steps leading down into the Church of San Francisco. The Church of San Francisco or the Iglesia de San Francisco was the original headquarters of the Franciscan friars. When Cortez first came to Mexico City, this spot was where he found Moctezuma II’s royal zoo. After the colonization, the zoo destroyed and the land used to build the largest and most influential monasteries in Mexico City. Initially, the church and its monasteries spread out over 32,224 square meters! This would have taken up almost the entirety of the city block around the area.

Balvanera Chapel

Today, the only remnant of the original complex is this small church built in 1710. The reason for the steps down into the church is because, like the rest of Mexico City, the building is sinking. You can’t even walk in through the original entrance as that has been walled up. Today, the direct access to the church is through the Balvanera side Chapel. The chapel’s facade was given a facelift by Lorenzo Rodríguez, who also designed the front for the Metropolitan Cathedral’s Tabernacle.

Walking inside, the most impressive feature of the chapel is the sizeable gilded altarpiece dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe. Her faded image is placed in the center of the golden altar. Walking up a few steps into the central part of the church, you are greeted by another great gilded altarpiece. A few of the little elements inside that I love are the stained glass windows with the red cross in the center. Although they aren’t highly sophisticated, I love the very stark imagery of that repetitive red cross illuminating the clerestory.

While the chapel walls are relatively plain, hung to decorate the large expanses of stone are these vast paintings. These paintings depict scenes from the life of San Francisco de Assísi, for whom the church and the Franciscan order are named. Each one of the paintings highlights one of Saint Francisco’s greatest virtues. See if you can spot them all.

Casa de Los Azulejos

Directly across from the church, you’ll immediately be drawn to the blue and white tiles of the Casa de Los Azulejos or The House of Tiles. Madero Street was once the most highly sought-after real estate in Mexico City. The original residence was built for the wealthy Count of the Valle de Orizaba in the 16th century.

But the now-iconic colourful tiles weren’t added until 1737. After the Count’s death, the Countess decided to return from her home in Puebla to the capital city. Wanting to feel at home, she brought a large amount of the famous Puebla Talavera tiles with her. Puebla tiles were each handmade, and the sheer number of tiles on the facade was a way of showing off the family’s immense wealth, even after the Count’s death. It was a means of showing that Countess was still a power player and didn’t need her husband to run the show.

Talavera Tile

Talavera was a craft brought to Mexico by the Spanish. The Spanish established their workshop in Puebla in the 16th century. They chose Puebla as their industrial hub as it was an excellent location to nearby clay mines used to create the tiles. The colourful tiles were a popular feature inside monasteries and churches. Usually, only the most wealthy homes could afford to decorate their houses with them. While some Puebla tiles were painted with images of animals, birds and flowers, the most commons variety contained simple geometric patterns.

Sanborns

Florid stone carvings decorated the windows, doorways and balconies around the rest of the building. Carved into the stones are French porcelain crowns to denote the status of the house as a royal residence. The Count’s family eventually sold off the property in the 20th century. It was purchased by Frank Sanborn and his brother Walter. It was there that they would open their first soda fountain shop and drugstore. They named it the ‘Sanborns American Pharmacy,’ which opened in 1917. Sanborns transformed the residential interior open-air courtyard into a restaurant with a large stained-glass roof overhead. Customers could dine inside the inner courtyard and enjoy the gorgeous antique murals that cover the walls, remnants of the 17th-century home.

One of the best places to get a great photo-op is along the tiled exterior is on Condesa Street. This less busy side street has tiles that stretch along the entire passage and provide an unobstructed view of the building. The food inside the restaurant isn’t anything to write home about but it is definitely worth going inside to take a look at the interior courtyard. Sanborn’s is still a small shop, so you can also go inside to buy yourself a little souvenir or bottle of water to give yourself an excuse to tour the interior.

Torre Latinoamericana

At the end of Madero street is the great Torre Latinoamericana. This enormous skyscraper looks down over the Historic Center like its great protector. While the skyscraper might seem pretty modern for a stop on the “Historical” neighbourhood tour, the view you get from the top is really what makes visiting this place worthwhile. The Torre Latinoamericana stretches 166 meters (545 ft) up to the sky. The building was designed by some of the countries best engineers to ensure it could withstand the seismic activity that is prevalent in the area. It stood the test of time in 1985 when the building withstood the 8.1 magnitude earthquake that brought such immense damage to the rest of the Historic District.

The building opened to the public in 1956 as Mexico’s tallest building and remained as such until 1982. Back then, skyscrapers were really architectural miracles. The other historic buildings in the neighbourhood were immediately looked over by locals and visitors in favour of the steel and glass tower. Today, it almost feels like the opposite. Most of us live in steel forests and are clamouring to see more of the baroque stone structure of the past.

Observation Deck

You have the option to travel up the tower to experience the fantastic views all across Mexico City. The building’s 44th floor is home to a large open-air observation deck. On a clear day, you can see all across the city and even over to the snow-capped volcanoes of Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl. From up above, you can really see how Mexico City is indeed located in a valley. Ticket to go up the tower cost 150 pesos (7 USD) per person.

Miralto Restaurant

If you are interested in getting a view without paying to go the observation deck you have the option of dining at the Miralto restaurant, located inside the tower. The restaurant has just as spectacular of a view, albeit without the open-air part. But for those of us who don’t love heights, this option might even be bette. The menu is pretty basic, but the food we did order was really delicious and shockingly well priced for being in such a spectacular location. My advice would be to head up to the tower to enjoy a small appetizer and fancy cocktail to paur with the gorgeous view. If you visit at the end of the day, you’ll also be able to enjoy a magnificent sunset!

La Opera Bar

If you’re looking to fill up for real, the Historic Centre has a ton of fantastic options for you. For a mid-price table service restaurant with such historic flair, La Ópera Bar is an excellent choice. The restaurant and bar have been here since 1870, serving locals and tourists alike. There is a definitely European flare to the place with their richly polished woods, tiled floor and filigree wood-carved ceilings.

Azul Historico

But my all-time favourite option has got to be Azul Historico. It’s an upscale option but still super reasonably priced considering the quality of the food and the beautiful ambiance. The restaurant is located inside a gorgeous open-air colonial courtyard. You sit amongst the trees while dining on authentic and yet modern Mexican cuisine. The presentation and service is absolutely unparalleled and eating here feels like such a visually sensation experience.

The entire menu is fantastic but one of my favourite hidden gems, that many people might not realize or skip over, is their hot chocolate. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico so ordering it here feels like getting to try the most authentic version of the drink. If you order a hot chocolate, they’ll bring the hot chocolate cart to your table. There, a waiter mixes up your personalized drink. Almost like ordering a fancy cocktail. You get to choose the type of chocolate and even some additives. Then they use these traditional wooden mixers to serve up the cup of warm cocoa right there in front of you! Just one more example of their stupendous service! You really must make it out here!

Pastelería Ideal

If you are still hankering something sweet to eat for dessert head over to the Pastelería Ideal. This bakery is one of the most popular shops in the district. In fact, you might have even seen their colossal blue and white boxes all over the city as it’s a popular spot for cafes to buy their sweets from. The bakery was founded in 1927 and has been opened in this very spot ever since. They have since opened up three other locations, but this is the original. The building in which it is located was actually once a part of the old Franciscan monastery we visited eariler! You can still see details of the original walls of the De Profundis Room inside the upper floors of the bakery.

This bakery has everything from traditional Mexican bread and pastries, cakes and cookies to Parisian puff pastry, viennoiseries, and more! All of this is served up on huge platters towering with treats. Just grab a try and use the tongs provided to serve yourself up some pastries. Once you’re done piling up (they make great breakfast pastries, too), take your collection to the counter. There they will pack them up for you and give you a ticket to pay. After you’ve paid, they’ll delivery you your baked good, all perfectly wrapped up to go. Enjoy them back at your hotel or back in Alameda Park to round out the tour.

Mexico City’s Historic Centre is a must-see destination for anyone visiting the city. It has so much significance with regard to the history of Mexico. It’s one of the most exciting areas to visit and the museums provide a dozen more reasons to come back! I hope you enjoyed our very thorough tour, time to head home, put your feet up and enjoy a cold Cerveza!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post FREE Self-Guided Walking Tour of Mexico City’s Centro Historico first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

A Little History on Victorian England

Queen Victoria was crowned in 1837, and she remained on the throne for a staggering 64 years until her death in 1901. She married Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg (German dynasty) in 1840. Together they had nine children and were very happily married. Her keen interest in family soaked into the fabric of British society and influenced generations to come. When Albert died suddenly in 1861, Victoria went into a period of mourning, which would last until her eventual death. She wore black for the rest of her life after the death of her husband and even had the servants lay out his clothes daily.

Under Victoria’s reign, Britain saw a time of significant cultural expansion. There were so many historic advances in industries, science and communications. Under her watchful eye, there was also the expansion of railways and the building of the London Underground. These elements would combine to create a melting pot which produced the magical Christmas traditions we cherish today.

The Christmas Tree

Queen Victoria married her beloved Prince Albert in 1840. As he was of German descent, he brought many of his hometown traditions with him to Windsor palace. One of these was the Christmas Tree. Christmas trees had been established in Germany since the 16th-century. In Germany though, they were generally placed on the tabletop instead of on the floor. These trees were relatively unassuming, with nothing more than candles placed on the tree as decoration.

In 1848 the Illustrated London News published a picture in their newspaper of Queen Victoria and her family around their beloved Christmas tree. But their English Christmas tree was adorned in beautiful ornaments. From there, the populace became enchanted with the idea of decorating their own Christmas tree. Since it was quick to mass-produce these decorations due to so many now industrial plants opening up, the market for the ornaments exploded. Round glass baubles in bright and reflective materials that would reflect then candlelight became the most popular commodity at the end of the 19th century.

Pile on the Ornaments

As mentioned before, Victorians loved their ornaments. In the late 19th century, the traditional colours for ornaments were the patriotic red, white and blue to represent the British flag. Small drums, airships and trains were also a popular kind of decoration. These were meant to express your national pride and love for the British military. With the invention of the printing press, die-cut images of Santas, angels, and other Christmas iconography were popular things to hang on the tree.

Lametta or tinsel was the final flourish any Victorian would add to their tree. The origins of hanging tinsel on the tree date back to 1610 in Nuremberg, Germany. Back then, people would use real strands of silver to hang on their tree which was meant as a means to show off their immense wealth. But as silver tarnished so quickly, it was swapped for the more durable copper or tin strands. This also meant it was much cheaper to buy and, therefore, accessible to the general public, who ate up the tinsel’s trendy look.

DIY Ornaments

Other Christmas ornaments were made by the lady of the house. Since the printing press made publications easy to mass-produce, women’s magazines begun popping up everywhere. Inside of them were instructions on how the dutiful housewife could create her own ornaments. Making these homemade ornaments was seen as a way to show off your skills as a housewife, even if you could afford store-bought ones. One popular design was made from coloured paper and shaped into horns. Then the horns were filled with sweets or dates that the children could eat during the holidays. Another design used silk ribbons to make pompoms and tassels or you could create a snowman out of cotton wool!

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Enjoy time with Family

It wasn’t until the Victorian era that Christmas became an official “holiday,” and working-class people got time off work. In the Victorian era, in England and Wales, December 25th and 26th were made into official holidays. This would allow the new middle-class workers who had moved to the city for their jobs time to go back home to visit their families. Even those who grew up far away could get back home quickly with the advent of the newly built train lines. Queen Victoria and her husband Albert thought family life was essential to overall well-being. And they wanted their citizens to be able to return home to be with family at Christmas.

Gift Giving

Queen Victoria’s reign was during the time of the first Industrial Revolution. Factories and mass production meant that many products previously only made by hand which cost a fortune were suddenly available to the middle class at a significantly lower price. This was especially significant when it came to Christmas gifts. Before toys were reserved for the rich but now almost all children’s parents might be able to afford to buy them something special to play with.

If you couldn’t afford toys, your stocking was filled with nuts, apples and clementines. Putting clementines into socks goes back to a group of nuns in the 12th century. This group of French nuns was inspired by the legend of St Nicholas and would leave apples and tangerines inside socks of the houses of the poor. At this time these fruits were very rare and expensive and eating them would have been a once-a-year kind of treat!

We know all about the kinds of gifts which Victorian men, women and children would have on this Christmas list thanks to Victorian Women’s magazines. Just like today, they were filled with gift guides. Popular gifts for women were; fans, perfume, Christmas decorations, sewing baskets, sewing scissors and even a magazine subscription.

Gifts for men included smoking caps, braces, shaving soaps, slippers, tobacco pouches, umbrellas or cigar cases. Gift for children consisted of hair ribbons, wax dolls, mittens, a toboggan, stamp albums, wooden toys, marbles, building bricks and toy soldiers.

Embrace Handmade Gifts

Just as the newly printed Women’s magazines influenced handmade ornaments, they also influenced the tradition of making handmade gifts. This was not just to show off your craft skills but as a means of displaying your wealth through your ability to have enough free time to make a gift, rather than buy them. Things like knitted mitted, handkerchiefs, button-boxes and aprons were popular gifts for the Victorian lady.

Send some Christmas Cards

More revolutions in the industrial era meant that mail was now able to travel further distances and at low costs. The “Penny Post” was introduced in the UK in 1840. Letters could be sent anywhere in the country for only a penny (about 10 cents nowadays). In 1843 a famous printer, Sir Henry Cole, got the idea to produce lovely illustrated cards in his shop during the Christmas season. People could buy them for a shilling to send home and bring a smile to their family’s face if they couldn’t return themselves. Sir Henry Cole would go on to be the first director of the Victoria & Albert Museum.

Christmas Crackers

One of my favourite things to do at Christmas dinner is open my Christmas Cracker. I loved making them from DIY materials when I was a kid and filling them with presents of my own making. Christmas Crackers were invented by a candy maker in 1846. Tom Smith, a London inventor, packaged his candies into these fancy wrappings inspired by French bonbon wrappers he had seen in Paris. He added paper hats and toys to give his sweets an edge against the competition which was explosive during the holiday season. But it wasn’t until he added the iconic explosive “bang” that his “crackers” were cemented into the hearts and minds of all.

Do some Carolling

While singing hymns during Yuletime was a 400-year practice, it was primarily done in the church. In the Victorian era, they rediscovered a love of singing at home around the piano. Since the production of these musical instruments was now being mass-produced they were now popping up all over the place in middle-class homes. The 18th century also saw the mass production of Christmas sheet music. This meant that anyone who could read the music could pick up a copy of the sheet music for only a few shillings and entertain their guests at home with a raucous sing-along.

Parlour Games

We all have our favourite board game we each drag out of the cupboard at Christmas to play with the family. But the tradition of game playing with family at Christmas dates back to the Victorian era (although in a much more dangerous way). Back then, they didn’t have Scrabble, Catan or Monopoly. Instead, they would play their favourite game, “Snapdragon.” To play, you’d fill a bowl with brandy and raisins and turn off all the lights. Then you’d set the brandy on fire, and everyone would have to grab the raisins out of the bowl, seemingly trying to avoid catching on fire or being burned in the process. Undoubtedly, this resulted in many fires, injuries, burns and probably is why we don’t play it anymore…

“Kissing Balls”

Victorians get the reputation of being quite stuffy, but they were also a massive bunch of nutters. They were perhaps just better at trying to hide it. Holidays and parties were their excuse to let their guard down and have fun! They loved the idea of mistletoe and would jump at the chance to kiss a stranger! Previously mistletoe used as decoration looked more natural and organic, just a bunch of the branches tied together. But it was the Victorians that came up with the idea to form it into a more eye-catching “kissing ball” to draw the eye and get a smooch.

Charles Dickens, A Christmas Carol

Whether you sit around the TV every year watching ‘A Muppet’s Christmas Carol,’ ‘Scrooged,’ or even the classic 1935 version of ‘A Christmas Carol‘, the story is one of the most popular holiday tales. A Christmas Carol was Charles Dickens‘ first published novel, released in 1843. Many of our classic ideas around “Christmas time” were created from his novelization. This includes the focal themes of family, charity, and good cheer.

Light the Advent Candles

In Victorian England, many households would place candles in their window during Advent, the four Sundays before Christmas. This was a symbol to travellers that food and shelter could be found inside. This was something all good Christians were implored to do, as a means to show charity. It also represents the theme from the Christmas story as Mary and Joseph sought shelter on their own pilgrimage. It was customary for businesses to give their customers candles as gifts around Christmas since households would go through hundreds of candles a month!

Santa Claus

The name Santa Claus comes from the Dutch word for St. Nicholas “Sinter Klass.” When the Dutch settlers moved to America in the 17th century, they brought the tradition of celebrating St. Nicholas’ saints day on December 6 by filling Stockings with gifts. In 1870 after Santa Claus’ popularity had grown in America, it made its way over to Britain. Since the popularization of Christmas by Queen Vicotria has already started to grow, the general public really latched onto the image of Santa Claus. It was then that it cemented itself in the minds of the people as the symbol of the season.

The Christmas Pickle

If you have any German ancestry, you might already know all about this odd Christmas tradition. In Germany, it was common practice to hide a pickle-shaped ornament somewhere in the tree. The first child to find the decoration on Christmas morning would receive a special gift. The tradition made its way to England in the Victorian era, no doubt from Prince Albert. Although the addition of the Christmas pickle seems to have died out in England these days, during the Victorian period, under the watchful eye of Prince Albert, it was a staple in any household.

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Roast Turkey

Queen Victoria’s Christmas table was known to display the very best of England’s harvest and hunt. Although the ingredients were all harvested from the countryside around the castle, the chefs were always French. French chefs were in-vogue with the upper classes at the time, influenced by King Louis 14th luxurious court. A roast turkey with chestnut stuffing was a classic Victorian staple on the royal Christmas banquet table.

Sugar Plums

In the Victorian era, one of the most popular sweets to eat during the holidays was called “sugar plums.” The candy was made of nuts, spices and sugar, and rolled into a ball. The dark colour had the appearance of a plum, and that is where it got its name despite there being no plums in the dessert. Queen Victoria was known to hang cones on her Christmas tree and filled them with these sugar plums. Her love of the dessert popularized the sweet greatly. It was so popular even made its way into Tchaikovsky‘s famous ballet The Nutcracker, with the ‘Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy.’

Whether you find your Christmas season already filled with all these traditional elements or you’ve found some historical ideas to incorporated into your holiday plans I hope you enjoyed reading this post! Let me know in the comments what surprised you most or any other historical traditions you have on your Christmas table.

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Mince Pie

If you grew up with English grandparents, you surely had mince pie on the Christmas table every year. Every Christmas dinner, my grandmother would bring out these tiny mincemeat pies, and I would watch questioningly as my family would gobble them up. I would always pass and only in the last few years have I grown a fondness for them.

Mince Pies are one of the oldest traditions from midwinter festivities. They were meant as a way to re-use shredded meats from banquet leftovers like goose, chicken or beef. The pies were filled with fruits and spices to perhaps mask the smell and taste of the slightly-off bits of meat. The addition of meat in the dish was removed in the 1800s and it became much closer to the sweet dessert we know of today.

Serving Roast Bird at Christmas Dinner

While having a turkey as the centrepiece of our Christmas dinner is now the norm, this wasn’t the case in the medieval period. But the idea of having a bird as the main course does pre-date our modern-day meal. In medieval celebrations, birds were served at the banqueting table in most wealthy households. But unlike our roast turkeys, these birds were served to look like they were still ALIVE! The animal was skinned, then roasted, and a replacement skin was then sewn back onto the meat. This was done so that the meat looked like it was being served from a living bird. Medieval kings and queens loved spectable and this was the height of food-for-entertainment.

The peacock was thought to the most prestigious of these creations as their feathers would bring awe to all the guests present. Smaller households were inspired by the royal’s love of serving these birds, and they would serve a simple goose. Many people still eat goose for their Christmas dinner, and I highly recommend it! It’s very fatty but as it’s small it is perfect for a household of only two or four.

Boar’s Head

If you don’t have turkey on Christmas, you might have a large roasted Christmas ham. The tradition of eating pork during the Yule time celebrations goes all the way back to the middle ages. Still, instead of meat from the hindleg, they would dine of the boar’s head! This tradition is thanks to the Vikings, who would sacrifice a boar to the god Frey during the Yuletide. Frey was known to ride a great gold-bristled boar Gullinbursti. As Frey was the god of fertility, rain, and sunshine, it was thought that this sacrifice would be a good fortune and a healthy harvest to the people.

Eating a boar’s head became even more popular across Europe when it became a popular part of a Christmas carol. The “Boar’s Head Carol” is a 15th-century English Christmas carol that describes the ancient tradition of sacrificing a boar and presenting its head at a Yuletide feast. As the boar’s head is perhaps not the most nourishing part of the animal, the traditions eventually turned into what we now know as the roast ham.

Christmas Plum Pudding

I have a winter hat in the shape of a Christmas pudding, and it’s by far my favourite thing to wear the second it becomes acceptable to wear Christmas-themed clothing in December! Plum pudding is a dish that is most popular in the UK, but eating such desserts dates back to England’s medieval ancestors. The pudding’s original version was actually more like a porridge, made from beef and mutton with raisins, wine, and spices added. It was pretty soupy, but breadcrumbs were added to give it some additional thickness. Sounds pretty unappetizing, but during the solstice, when poor families struggled to find something warm and hearty to eat, it was considered a luxury. Although the recipe has been refined over time, eating plum pudding on Christmas Eve still makes you feel warm and fuzzy inside!

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Some people have the tradition of hiding something inside the pudding. You hid a silver coin, small crown or ring inside the dish before baking. Whoever has the piece of pudding with the treasure inside their slice would be known as the King or Queen of the dinner. The finding of the metal was thought to bring the receiver good fortune for the year to come. Just be sure to use a food-safe material!

Wassail

It seems that no matter where you live in the world, you have a warm, spiced drink which simmers on the stove during the holidays. In England its mulled wine, in Mexico Ponche, in Sweden Glogg and so on! But all these drinks date back to the medieval Wassail. Wassail was a drink made from hot mead or mulled cider. It was one of the most important things to bring with you during any Yuletide festival. Pagans would bring their wassail bowl, full of the beverage, to the tree of worship. They would proceed to pour the alcohol over the roots of a great apple tree in the hopes of ensuring a good harvest the following year. There is even an ancient Christmas carol all about Wassail.

Wassail! Wassail! All over the town, Our toast it is white and our ale it is brown; Our bowl it is made of the white maple tree; With the wassailing bowl, we’ll drink unto thee.

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Wassail Recipe

Wassail is actually delicious and super easy to make. All you need is 1/3 pint apple cider (or apple juice if you can’t find cider), zest one lemon, 1/8 tsp nutmeg, 1/4 tsp cinnamon, 1/4 tsp ginger, 1 oz sugar, 1-pint ale (or omit if you prefer an alcohol-free version) and 1 tsp honey. Simmer on the stove till the scent of apples and spices fill your entire house with festive fragrance.

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Holly & Ivy

During the cold and dark winters, the idea of bringing greenery into your house was a popular medieval tradition. The idea of seeing these green boughs was meant to symbolize life during a season when everything else seemed to be dying. While the outdoors was barren and grey, your home was not. Even the most impoverished household could go out and collect greenery to decorate the house, so its popularity was wide-ranging. Two of the most popular plants to collect were holly and ivy. Since they had roots in Saturnalia’s pagan festival, the church widely disapproved of this kind of decoration. But the people persisted with it nonetheless. Holly is one of the oldest good-luck charms used by ancient Celtic druids to ward off evil spirits. It was thought to also protect the home from lightning and was used for good luck.

Mistletoe

Mistletoe is another plant that has been used in Christmas celebrations for ages. It was long thought to be used as an ancient cure-all by the druids. People would use it for fertility, to protect their crops and even to ward off witches. The mistletoe myth of bestowing love upon any couple who kiss beneath it dates back to the Norse gods. The Norse god Balder was thought to have died after being killed with a spear made from the mistletoe. His mother, Frigg, wept upon finding her son dead, and her tears turned into the white berries on the plant. Frigg ensured that whenever a couple met under the mistletoe, she would protect them in a way she could not have saved her son. And instead of becoming known as a deadly plant, it was known as the plant of love.

The idea of kissing under the mistletoe comes from England, when servants were allowed to steal a kiss from any woman under the mistletoe, and refusing was seen as bad luck. Another tradition goes that you must kiss once for every berry on the mistletoe and pluck them as you go until all the berries are gone.

The Original Yuletide Tree

In medieval times, druids were known to worship oak trees. This enraged many early Christians, including St. Boniface, who despised their love of the great tree. One day St. Boniface headed out to the great oak and cut it down. When it fell, a fir tree grew up from its roots. Boniface proclaimed that this fir tree symbolized Christ, as its branches never turned brown, a symbol of Jesus’s eternal life. Being amazed at the sight, many of the druids decided to finally convert to Christianity.

The earliest known decorated Christmas tree was noted in 1419 in Freiburg, Germany. The Baker’s apprentices decorated a tree outside the local hospital with apples, wafers, gingerbread, and tinsel. They decorated it at Christmastime to bring joy to those suffering inside whenever they looked out their window.

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Yule Log

Pagan and Norse people would perform a yearly ritual to appease the god Thor. They would place a log in the hearth, and if the log burned all throughout the Yuletide celebrations, this would ensure the sun’s return. Often, they would dose the log in alcohol to ensure it burned for a long time. When paganism was replaced with Christianity, this tradition continued as the log was seen to represent the warmth that Jesus brought to humanity on Christmas Eve.

As the hearth slowly was replaced with modern electric technology, people continued leaving out a log on their dining table as a symbol. Eventually, someone had the brilliant idea to turn the symbol of the Yule Log into a delicious dessert, as it’s much more enjoyable to eat rather than just staring at a log on the table.

Music of St. Francis of Assisi

Many people credit St. Francis of Assisi with the invention of the Christmas Carol. In 1224, during one of his nativity services, Francis led the crowd in a song of praise for the baby Jesus. His joyful tunes caught on with the group, and they would excitedly gather every year to take part in the singing. Eventually, the tradition of singing happy tunes around the holiday season caught on, and now it is one of the most popular traditions for families to take part in during large gatherings. These melodies weren’t always necessarily religious during medieval times and sometimes just focused on the winter season.

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Sliding on Frozen Lakes

One of the most popular winter activities during the winter in the middle ages was sliding on frozen lakes. People would use the large bones from a horse to strap to their feet. They would then use long poles to help themselves glide along the frozen water. This was one of the earliest forms of ice skating, a tradition that many families love to partake in every Christmas.

St. Nicholas

Before there ever was Santa Claus, there was St. Nicholas, better known as Father Christmas. St. Nicholas was born in 280 in Patara, now Turkey. Three girls in his local village were on the verge of being sold into slavery or prostitution by their father. The family was too poor to afford a dowry and I guess back then it was get married or be a prostitute? No fun…

Upon hearing this, St. Nicholas snuck out and dropped a sack of gold coin through the window. He would place the coins inside their drying socks left by the window (where we get the traditions of hanging stocking today). This gift meant their father could afford a dowry, and they would be spared from being sold off. Nicholas became the patron saint of charitable fraternities and guilds of unmarried girls.

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To honour his charity, in the 12th-century French nuns began secretly leaving presents inside the homes of poor children. They would always do so on the eve of Saint Nicholas. Soon the trend of secret gift-giving in honour of Saint Nick caught on all around Europe. There were even marketplaces that would pop up around the Yuletide dedicated to selling toys and treats for children.

The Great Feast

Royal winter feasts were something for the history books. In 1213 it was recorded that at King John’s Christmas feast, the cooks ordered 24 hogsheads of wine, 200 head of pork, 10,000 salt eels, 1,000 hens, and 500 lbs of wax, 50 lbs of pepper, 2 lbs of saffron, 100 lbs of almonds! Truly one of the most extensive grocery shopping trips of all time I’m sure!

But even for more modest households, the Christmas feast was still a massive event during the Yuletide season. The meal’s principal components were hearty meats, cheese, bread, ale, and a table of sweets. Venison was the most popular meat to be eaten at the time, along with pork & rabbit for the rich. The poor, on the other hand, ate sausage and bacon. Candied fruit, sugared almonds and sweets have always been popular Christmas treats.

Gingerbread

Whether baked in the shape of little men or made into a large house decorated with candies and icing, gingerbread is one of the most iconic Christmas foods! But the history of this dessert dates all the way back to the 11th century. It made its appearance during the Crusades when ginger was brought back from the Middle East. Back then, ginger was one of the most expensive spices. Using it in dishes was a means to show off your wealth. The earliest recipe we have of gingerbread consists of stale breadcrumbs combined with flour, ground almonds, rosewater or powdered sandalwood. It was then mixed with sugar, and fresh ginger.

This paste was pressed in moulds and sometimes even covered in gold leaf. Those who couldn’t afford gold leaf would use white icing sugar to decorate the shapes into more detailed reliefs. The shapes were used to tell stories from the news of the day. And sometimes, were made in the likeness of famous kings and emperors. In the 15th century in Nuremberg, the cookies became so popular and lucrative that an entire guild was dedicated to the profession.

Marzipan

While Marzipan is definitely not my favourite treat, it was a real hit with medieval aristocrats. The paste, made from almonds, sugar and egg whites, was an exotic treat. It made its way from Persia to Europe in the early 15th century. Back then, it was considered a luxury and often given as a Christmas gift. In addition to the wonderful almond flavour, Europeans loved the aesthetics of the dessert. It could be formed into many different shapes and painted to look like extraordinary creations. They loved giving the gift of surprise more than anything else. It was always a treat for them to reveal to the giftee that the music box or even the small bird in front was actually a sweet treat!

Boxing Day 

Boxing Day in medieval times was not a day for shopping. Instead, it was a day for the “reversal of fortunes.” During this time, the rich were encouraged to give gifts to the poor. Gifts were placed in boxes that employers would often give to their servants to reward them for their yearly service. Metal boxes were also placed outside churches to collect money and donations on the Feast of Saint Stephen, which took place on December 26th. St. Stephen was the first Christian martyr known for his charity acts towards the poor.

I hope you enjoyed this dive into the traditions of Medieval Christmas and maybe even consider adding some medieval flavours into your Christmas this year!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post 16 Surprising Medieval Traditions To Add To Your Christmas Celebrations first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Coming home from Venice, the best souvenir to bring with you or give to another is definitely a Venetian mask. But it’s so important to know how to find and spot an authentic mask as well as where to buy them. Hopefully, this little guide helps you in your quest to learn more about this amazing tradition and finding your perfect mask.

Table Of Contents

1. History of Masks in Venice
2. Carnevale di Venezia
3. How Masks are Made
4. Mask Styles | Historical
5. Mask Styles | Commedia dell'arte
6. Mask Styles | Modern Masks
7. How Can you if a Mask is Authentic?
8. Venetian Mask Shops
9. Try Before you Buy

History of Masks in Venice

Today, Venetian masks are mainly associated with Carnevale di Venezia or the Carnival of Venice. But their origin in the city pre-dates Carnival by a few hundred years. No one seems to know exactly when Venetians started wearing masks to conceal their identity. But there have been accounts of this as early as the 11th century. Venice had a prime location in Europe, adjacent to major centres of trade with both the middle east and Europe. This meant that the Republic lead the way in economic development based on trading valuable goods. Most of its citizens were making a fairly good living, and with flush income, came the desire to spend! But more often than not, the way they wanted to indulge themselves was in a rather less than “honourable” manner. At least that was how it was viewed at the time.

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Although it was illegal to gamble, casinos began popping up all over the place, even in convents! Sexual promiscuity and prostitution were rampant. Despite homosexuality being condemned by the church, Venetians embraced it! The city was relatively small, and people lived basically one on top of the other. There was no chance for the secretary in a city with eyes everywhere you looked. So people began to wear masks to conceal their identity. Nuns and priests were able to don a mask and dress as lavishly as they wanted, unrestrained from the restrictions of the pious church. Masks allowed you to remain anonymous and live your life to your heart’s desire.

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Masks as Disguise

But wearing masks was not solely as a means for sinful activity. With a mask on, and no way of identifying a rich person from a poor person, a group of wearers would all be seen as equal. A servant could speak out against a nobleman without being identified and therefore could express opinions without retribution. The earliest masks worn by the public were not to the opulent as the ones we know of today. Most often, they were plain unadorned faces painted either black of white.

For many years, despite the church abhorring the sinful atmosphere in Venice, they turned a blind eye. They did so in exchange for the wealth that the city brought into Italian coffers. But things began to get a little out of control in the 13th century. Historical documents recorded this anarchic behaviour. One report detailed how people in masks were throwing eggshells filled with perfume off balconies onto the people below. Another document reported how masked men were gambling, visiting convents and using vulgar language. All pretty tame with today’s perspective but back then it was the talk of the town!

Rome’s New Mandate

Finally, Rome was forced to place a limit on the times during the year where mask-wearing would be allowed. They hoped this would curb the city’s lawless behaviour. Rome mandated that starting on December 26th, citizens would be allowed to wear masks until Shrove Tuesday. This was in order to protect the various holy days from being marred by the city’s lawlessness. Venetians took to ensuring that their masks were as fanciful and elaborate as possible in anticipation of their debut on December 26th! If you could only wear masks for a few months of the year, they wanted them to at least make a statement!

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Carnevale di Venezia

Carnevale di Venezia or the Venice Carnival, was established in 1168. It began as a celebration in honour of the Republics’ victory against Padua and Ferrara. The victory celebration started right before the beginning of Lent. This date was very important. During Lent, a myriad of rich food (meat, sugar, fats) were off limit for 40 days! Before the start of lent many large households needed to find a way to use up all those banned ingredients. And what better way, than to throw a huge party! Since Carnival occurred during the months in which mask-wearing was allowed, masks became almost required for attending any decadent Carnevale celebration. Masks were worn during Carnival to help conceal the identities of both the lower and upper classes. This way everyone could dance and celebrate together without the social hierarchy getting in the way.

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Carnival was abolished with the falls of the Venetian Republic, at the end of the 18th century. And mask-wearing banned with it! It wasn’t until the 1970s when Carnival was brought back to life. Surprisingly enough, its rebirth was at the hands of a bunch of university students who embraced the hippie lifestyle. Hippies were counterculture advocates. They felt that since these masks had been banned, wearing them was almost an act of rebellion. But soon, Venetians who weren’t a part of the hippie movement began also embrace wearing these masks once more. It was a reemergence of Venetian history. Additionally, artists and shops saw it as big business for locals and tourists alike. Before you knew it, mask shops were popping up on every corner!

How Masks are Made

Traditional Venetian masks are made today in exactly the same manner that they were made in the past. A large piece of clay is carved into the desired face or mask shape. Each detail hand-sculpted by the artist. This is then used to create a chalk mould. The mould is then covered in papier-mache. Once dried it is removed from the mould and the excess edges of the papier-mache are cut off. Gesso paint is used for the base and then more paints are applied to give it colouring and shading. Gold leaf is traditionally added along with feathers, fur, ribbons, gems and glitter. Glue is sometimes used to create raised patterns on the mask and then covered in gold leaf. Some of the most intricate designs can take 2-3 weeks for one individual artist to finish.

Mask Styles | Historical

There are three main categories of mask designs you’ll find in shops today in Venice. The first are historical reproductions of traditional masks whose designs originated in Venice.

Bauta

The Bauta mask is one of the oldest styles. This mask was almost always accompanied by a tricorn hat and cape. Even when masks were banned throughout the year, the Bauta was an exception. These masks were required for women to wear if they attended the theatre. The word bauta comes from the German “behüten“, which means to protect. Men had to wear them during certain key governmental votes to protect their political opinions from each other.  The mask would cover the entire face but was angled outwards so the wearer could eat, drink and speak easily without having to remove the mask. This made it perfect for parties to remain anonymous while being able to keep the wine flowing.

The Plague Doctor

The Medico Della Peste or Plague doctor mask was originally worn by doctors during the plague. It was a functional mask instead of an aesthetic one. The long beak which extends from the covered face was stuffed with herbs and spices which were thought to prevent infection in the 17th century. This technique was developed by French physician Charles de Lorme and as silly as that idea seems now during the plague these masks where thought to be the doctors saving grace.

The mask is white with two round black spectacles painted around the eyes. The spectacles were meant to represent crystals which were thought to protect the wearer’s eyes. Today people continue to wear the Plague Doctor mask as its haunting past evokes such powerful emotions and creepy vibes. There is nothing like seeing that beak silhouetted on the canals to make you feel a shiver up your spine.

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Gatto

The Gatto mask is very easy to identify, as it looks like the face of a cat. Gatto, in Italian means cat. Cats were considered to be almost heroes by Venetians after the plague. Cats were actually thought to be responsible for saving the city from complete destruction. And there is a bit of truth to this, as cats would eat the rats which carred the plague and infected the citizens. Thereafter cats were an honoured creature and masks were even made to pay homage to their greatness.

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The Jester

The Jester is clown mask that dates all the way back to the middle ages. Jesters were originally considered to be soulful opposites of a king. Instead of being touched by God for greatness, they were touched by madness. But Kings were encouraged to give these people work in their courts are they were nevertheless still touched by God and shouldn’t be rejected. The jesters uniform most frequently consisted of a cap and bells and these elements were incorporated into their masks. Jesters’ roles evolved and they were considered men of great wit and skill. They were acrobatics, juggling, comedians, and even some times magicians. Jester masks are some of the most interesting masks with so many details and I love the noise they make. You always know if a Jester is close by listening for those jingle bells echoing down the canals.

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Dama

The Dama mask is one of the heaviest and largest masks you can find. It is full-faced, heavily gilded, with often a sculpture of a large coif added to the top. These coifs were how Venetian women were thought to wear their hair during the Cinquecento period (which was between 1500 to 1599). Women at this time also wore very expensive clothing covered in jewels and needed a mask which would be just as ornate! These are amazing masks for those that want to make a statement.

Volto 

The Volto mask is also known as the “larva” mask. The word larva in Italians means ghost. In the moonlight, these white painted masks worn with large cloaks and hats would give the appearance of a ghost floating around the canals of Venice. The mask is also known as the “citizen mask” as it was often worn by common people during the holidays. Traditionally these masks were relatively simple, usually painted plain white with some black around the eyes to accentuate that feature. Today they are still generally kept simple but are great for personalizing as people will often add a few details to tie the mask in with their outfit or costume.

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Mask Styles | Commedia dell’arte

The second category of Venetian masks is the Commedia dell’arte designs which were inspired by theatrical productions.

Columbina

The Columbina is a delicate half-mask, which was often worn only by women. Traditionally this mask would be tied to the face by a ribbon or held up on a long stick. Commedia dell’arte was an early form of professional theatre, originating in Italy. Actors and actresses in these productions would frequently wear masks to either change their appearance to suit a specific character or were even by men when they were required to play female parts.

Famously there was a popular actress named Columbine who performed in one of these Commedia dell’arte. She thought herself too beautiful to have her entire face covered so the production designed a half mask for her to wear. It is this design, which is named after her, which is today still one of the most popular masks you’ll find in Venice today. These masks are often decorated with gold, silver, crystals and feathers as it is meant to really exemplify that theatrical feeling. The masks highlight the eyes on the face and therefore these masks are often considered to be some of the most alluring.

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Scaramouche

The Scaramouche is my FAVOURITE of all the Venetian masks. It was worn in plays when representing a young adventurer! Often thought of a swashbuckling pirate or masked henchman. The Scaramouche mask wearer often dons a typical black Spanish dress which they can use to flit about and hide in the shadow. I love the exaggerated nature of this mask and love the silhouette is creates on the face!

Pierrot

The Pierrot masks is known as the “sad clown”. In plays, he is the dejected lover. Pierrot desire Colombina, yet she always breaks his heart. His masks are traditionally painted with a tear falling from his eyes and are a favourite with romantic souls.

Pantalone

Pantalone was a theatrical representation of an old, miserable man. This character is full of rage, and therefore his mask is always painted red. Black gesso was added to accentuate the folds of aged skin on his face. I think this mask is great for those who want a very expressive mask.

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Pulcinella

The Pulcinella is immediately easy to spot by its crooked nose. The face shape was actually the model for the Punch and Judy dolls which were used in puppet theatre in England. The word Pulcinella even means punch. Pulcinella is known for being cruel and violent and his mask is often contorted into a scowl. These masks are great comedic pieces that really will change the way you act and even move in your costume!

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Mask Styles | Modern Masks

The third and finaly type of masks are the modern and experimental designs that the new blood of Venetian artisans around bringing to this traditional craft. Some of these masks use references from art forms in their modern creations. Steampunk masks are some of the most popular modern Venetian mask style with gears and cogs featuring heavily in the ornamentation. Whatever these modern artists are creating I love seeing these new styles bringing fresh ideas to the streets of Venice!

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How Can you if a Mask is Authentic?

Like many other famous tourist souvenirs, there are always shops all over the city selling fakes. Chinese mass-produced masks are found EVERYWHERE in Venice, especially around St Marks square. And while they might look the part, they are not made in Venice. There is no love put into these masks. And the Venetian artisans who are struggling to keep their craft alive won’t make a dime from those sales.

If you’re a budget traveller, I get it. You might not be able to afford one of the beautiful artisan masks. But just know that those same fake masks in tourist shops can be purchased on Amazon for about $20 USD. So don’t think that you’re really walking away with a piece of Venetian craftsmanship. And usually, for only a few euros more you can find something, perhaps a little simpler, at a real boutique which puts money back into the hands of local Venetians.

If you want to know whether the mask you’re about to buy was made authentically in Venice or not, go through the following list in your head.

• Check the Price. If the mask seems to cheap, it’s probably because it’s fake and mass produced in China.
• Study the inside. If you see clear signs of papier-mache, layers of paper that can be felt when touched, this is a good sign it’s real. Uniform texture means it’s mass-produced.
• Look for brushstroke. Non-uniform paint marks and brushstrokes mean it’s been hand-painted. Mass-produced masks are spray painted and won’t have brush marks.
• Avoid “made in Venice” stamps. If you see a stamp on the back instead of a sticker, even if it says “made in Venice” this is a good sign its fake. Copycat companies have even gone as far as to falsify these stamps.
• Instead of a stamp, look for a certificate. Hanging on the mask or stuck on the back you’ll always find a sticker or tag which is the certificate of authenticity.

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Venetian Mask Shops

So, now you know all about what masks mean and which one you might be most drawn but where can you buy an authentic mask? Check out one of the stores below which I think contains some of the greatest works of art you can find today! To find the best mask shops, stay out of San Marco as anything you find there around St. Mark’s square is almost certainly fake.

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Papier Mache Venezia

Papier Mache Venezia can be found in the Castello district and is a great place to buy masks with a slightly unique flavour. This shop sells all the traditional masks, as well as masks painted with images of Venice imprinted onto them. While these masks might be more of a display piece and less of a wearable, I still love that they are offering up something different.

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Ca’ Macana

Ca’ Macana has two locations but I think their shop in Dorsoduro a little quieter and you can find more interesting options. This shop is not only a feast for the eyes but since the workshop is inside the store you can watch the artisans making the masks right there! My favourite pieces from their collection are their beautifully crafted animal masks. While these are a departure from traditional masks, they are both so realistic and so fantastical they make such an impact on both the wearer and anyone who lays eyes on them.

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La Bottega Dei Mascareri

La Bottega Dei Mascareri is a shop owned and run by two brothers and has been open since 1984. The brothers were really inspired by the medieval court, commedia dell’arte and eighteenth-century Venice. All these historical references are poured into their work and they create some absolutely incredible masks. Despite this high level of craftsmanship, there are masks here that cost as little as €15 which makes them affordable for almost anyone! They also make some really inventive designs, just as the Vincent Van Gogh mask below, which are a real surprise among the traditional masks.

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La Gioia

La Gioia is one of the oldest shops in Venice, founded in 1970. While obviously that seems very modern considering the ancient history of Venice, since mask making was only really re-introduced in the 70s this is one of those shops that brought the tradition back to the city! The designs in this shop are fantastically creative. The designers manage to blend traditional shapes with some really lush colours. So many of their masks are then embellished with gold and jewels and have papier-mache swaths of fabrics that surround the mask. These definitely are statement pieces for those of us who aren’t afraid to make a splash!

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Il Canovaccio

Il Canovaccio is located close to the tourist hub but tucked away on a side street, therefore, avoid most of the mobs which flow out of the Piazza San Marco. The staff here is incredibly kind and will even be happy to tell you all about the histories behind the different masks and regale you of stories from Carnival! This shop’s specialty is definitely FEATHERS! So many of their masks are adorned in these amazingly rich feathers and I love the elegant embellishments they add to the masks.

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Venice Masks by Alberto Sarria

Venice Masks by Alberto Sarria was established in 1986 and quickly became a popular stop for locals and tourists alike to find unique masks for Carnival. One thing which makes their shop a little different is they sell some leather masks. This is obviously a shift from the traditional but the leather masks really have the most interesting look and I love artisans putting their own spin on ancient techniques.

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Bluemoon Venice

Bluemoon Venice is an amazing shop that sells some very interesting types of masks such as ones made entirely of metal, with delicate cut-outs. So many of their masks are embellished with Swarovski crystals which makes them really sparkle and shine. But if you find yourself wanting to design your own mask, this shop also sells blank canvases which you can personalize yourself! This is great for kids or for those with a very specific vision in mind! The shop has everything you need from brushes to paints and embellishments to create your own Venetian mask!

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Try Before you Buy

Lastly, when you’re ready to make a purchase be sure to ask the staff if it’s ok to try on the masks. This is polite and some of the masks are so delicate they might want to assist you with this. Since these masks are moulded onto a generic face, they will obviously not fit you perfectly. Some masks fit different face shapes better than others so be sure to try on your masks before purchasing if you indeed intend on wearing it. If it’s just for display then no worries there, you can just choose whichever design suits your fancy.

I hope this guide really helps you decide which mask is right for you and helped you understand a bit more about the history of the mask and mask making in Venice. Let me know if the comments which one was your favourite!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Complete Guide to Venetian Carnival Masks first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. When to Visit
2. History
3. Where to Park
4. Old Jerome Cemetery
5. Ghost City Inn
6. House of Joy
7. Jerome's Sliding Jail
8. Cuban Queen Bordello 
9. Husband's Alley
10. Liberty Theatre & Gifts
11. Connor Hotel
12. The Spirit Room
13. Bartlett Hotel
14. Jerome Park
15. Mile High Inn
16. First Episcopal Church
17. The Haunted Hamburger
18. Surgeon's House
19. The Old Company Clinic
20. Asylum Restaurant
21. The Grand Hotel
22. United Verde Mine

When to Visit

Obviously, since this is a ghost tour, the best time for it is at dusk as it day turns to night. But even during the daytime, the abandoned streets and buildings still have an ominous feeling. Three of the locations on this tour are also hotels so for those brave enough to stay overnight, you’re in for an extra treat. Overnight stays allow you to experience the town without as many tourists, and the silence allows for keener ears and eyes to spot those spectres.

History

Jerome was founded in the late 19th century on Cleopatra Hill. It overlooks the scenic Verde Valley, which is 5,000 feet above sea level. During its heyday, it was home to more than 15,000 people. During the first world war, the price of copper soared, and American citizens came here in droves to mine the rich copper quarries that were abundant in this area of the west. Jerome was dubbed the “Wickedest Town in the West” by the New York Sun newspaper in 1903. It had a reputation for rampant gambling, an abundance of alcohol consumption, drug abuse, gunfights and other mayhem. With all of that debauchery came a series of unfortunate deaths, each one relating to the abandon that was felt throughout the town. It was lawless and rarely were crimes investigated to the full extent of the law.

Over the years the town seemed to be cursed. Jerome was subject to numerous fires, earthquakes and other natural disasters. The population continued to decrease and the copper mines dried up. Eventually, it became a ghost town with little to no sustainable source of income. In the late ’60s, the Arizonian Tourism board saw Jerome’s untouched architectural and cultural history to be valuable for visitors. And in 1967 Jerome was established as a Historical Landmark.

State Park and National Mine Museum

In the late 2000s, art galleries and trendy restaurants started popping up to drive more people into the town. The local State Park and National Mine Museum were established to help preserve the history of mining in this village and to educate travelling visitors on the history of Jerome. But what people come to Jerome for these days, are the ghosts! Even if you don’t believe in these spectres, the dark history of the town’s past is a fascinating way to explore its decrepit streets and abandoned buildings.

United Verde Mines

The United Verde Mines in Jerome were a dangerous place. In 1922, the quality of ore they had been mining began to degrade, and they had to switch to open-pit mining. This resulted in multiple fires which plagued the operations. Often, there was no way to control the flames which burned the ore under the ground. These ever-burning fires resulted in dense smoke on the skyline of Jerome for months, a haunting sight to see. The recklessness of the mine owners was in their quest for power and wealth is thought to have cursed the town. Fire after fire, earthquakes, landslides and rampant diseases seem like something more than just chance.

Dynamite and Explosions

If the fires and dynamite explosions didn’t kill the miners, brawls and shootouts would. In its heyday, it is estimated that there were four murders a day in Jerome! Since these men were poor miners there was no money for a funeral and burial. So they were disposed of in the cities smelting furnaces, and the bone fragments from the corpses are literally now still in the foundation of the city itself. It’s a living tomb. Today, the ghosts of these fallen miners are thought to haunt the town, in search of their final resting place.

So many ghosts died in the fires which tore through the camp in the early days of Jerome. At that time, most of the buildings were made from timber, and once something caught fire, it spread rapidly. Being high up on the hill meant that the winds would pick up any bits of burning embers can carry them past where the initial blaze started. In 1898 one of the most massive fires pretty much levelled the entire town to ash and took with it many lives.

Where to Park

After visiting the cemetery, which is on the outskirts of the town, there is a parking lot for anyone on a day trip marked on the map where you can easily leave your car and then head over to the next spot on tour. If you’re staying overnight, almost all the hotels have dedicated parking.

Old Jerome Cemetery

We’ll start our tour on the outskirts of town. Before you even enter the ghost town, you’re immediately met with a sign of its darkened past. The old cemetery once housed over 400 graves and markers, but today almost nothing remains. Because the ground was so tough, most of the time, the earth wasn’t dug too deep to bury the bodies. This meant that animals, such as coyotes, were able to dig up the corpses and drag them from their “eternal” resting place out to the mountains where they were never recovered. Today, the last of the stones and markers are protected with iron fences to ensure they don’t slide right off the cliffside. From this place, you have a panoramic view of the United Verde Mining Operations and the towering Cleopatra hill which rises up above the city.

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Ghost City Inn

This charming red and white painted two storey bed and breakfast seem anything but nefarious. But like everything in Jerome, it’s not what it seems. The Ghost City Inn was initially built in 1885 by the Garcia family as a lodging house for the managers of the various mines. In 1930, a miner staying in the house had constructed a bootleg still in his room. The poorly made machine exploded, causing an enormous fire which engulfed the entire second floor. In the 1950s and 70s, the house went through multiple renovations. This was in an attempt to keep relevant after the closure of the mines.

It became an art gallery, funeral home, spiritual retreat and restaurant. In 1994, it went through its latest transformation into a bed and breakfast where brave visitors stay the night to see if they can spot a ghost. The hotel’s most popular room, the Cleopatra Hill room, a female spirt it thought to be seen roaming the halls. In the Verde View Room, there is a male spirit seen outside the halls spying through keyholes on those people inside. People have seen doors slam on their own and whispering voices in the hallways when no one is there. Perhaps these are the ghosts of the people who perished in the fire, searching for a way out.

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Ladies of the Night

The ghosts of these ‘ladies of the night’ are thought to roam these streets, searching for redemption. High-class escorts worked in brothers where they had madams who took care of their health and safety. But if you were one of the lower class working women, you worked in what was called “the cribs”. These women saw upwards of 30-80 men a night and exposed themselves to harsh conditions, illness and violence.

Dozens of women died either by the hands of jealous clients or passed away from sexually transmitted diseases they weren’t even aware of. One such woman, who is seen wandering the street, was named Sammie Dean. Sammie Dean was murdered on Tuesday July 7th 1931 inside ‘Lil’s place’, a brothel apartment off Hull Ave. Her killer is a mystery but suspects include the Mayors Son, or Deputies Son. She is reportedly spotted in windows along the street, continually looking for her killer.

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House of Joy

The House of Joy on Hull Avenue is now an eclectic shop, but it was once one of the most famous brothels in town. In front of this house, people have said they feel like they are being watched by eyes in the window, despite no one being home. Often you’ll hear footsteps behind you, only to turn and nothing is there. People have even been said to be able to smell old fashioned perfume wafting from nowhere.

This red and black painted bordello was owned by the famous Madam, Nora “Butter” Brown. She was the very first madam to open a brothel in Jerome and taught Madam Jennie everything she knew. Jennie (who we will learn about late) went on to become much more success than Brown herself but learned everything from good ol’ Nora. During one of the many Jerome fires, Nora ran to the fire department and begged them to save her house over all the others. She went so far as to offer all the firefighters free “business” if they managed to save her property. With that kinda incentive its no surprise to hear, her house was saved.

Jerome’s Sliding Jail

Continue walking along Hull Avenue, and as you climb, on your right, down the hill (pathway marked), you’ll find the famous Sliding Jail. As the miners continued to dig and disrupt the steep hillside, many buildings were lost to landslides. And this jail is one of the remaining examples of this phenomenon. In 1936, the earth gave way under the jail, and it literally slid down the hill. It originally was located 200 feet from here, upon the main street.

The concrete cell block literally fell right out of the tin and wood building it was contained within. One can only imagine if someone had been inside this cell or not when it made a run for it. The cell is now reinforced by a few new walls and an iron fence to attempts to keep people out. Spirits have been drawn to this site for years, perhaps ghosts of old prisoners, searching for somewhere familiar.

Cuban Queen Bordello 

Just up from the sliding jail, is the remains of the Cuban Queen Bordello. This building was finally torn down in 2017 as it had been left to rot and eventually collapsed on itself. The once swanky Bordello was the site of one of the town’s most unlucky couple. After drinks in the bordello, two men had a quarrel in the streets, and one had killed the other. The murdered man’s wife, now left with no income became a prostitute at the Cuban Queen Bordello. There she was also shot to death by an estranged lover. Perhaps the angry spirits of the murdered couple brought down the building itself, but no doubt they still roam the area. But at least they are together again in death.

Husband’s Alley

Husbands Alley is the small alley behind what is now the Nellie Blie building. It had a false store front with access down to the Cribs. The Cribs District or ‘Husband’s Alley’ by the locals, as this was where the majority of Jerome’s prostitutes and ladies of the night would set up shop. Miners rarely brought their families with them when they took a position at a mine, and this meant prostitution was rampant. Although prostitution was technically legal, police would look the other way, and the trade was second only to copper in terms of the money brought into Jerome. At one point over 100 prostitutes were working in town.

Brothels and Saloons

These brothels were once located right on the main street, but when Jerome attempted to become a more “family-friendly” town, these establishments were moved to this new area, away from the saloons on the main drag. This meant men could head down to the main street to drink and gamble, and then walk out the back door, to access Husband’s alley. Then they would head back into the saloon once they were finished their “business” and walk out the front of the bar without knowing anyone knowing any the wiser what they had been up to.

Liberty Theatre & Gifts

Turning up Jerome avenue, we come upon the old Liberty Theatre, which now also acts as a gift shop. This was Jerome’s first silent movie theatre. Although the theatre closed in 1929, you can still explore the space it once resided in, and ghosts don’t just head off because of renovations. To this day, the spirit of a former patron haunts the building. Immigrants often came to mining towns as that kind of labour didn’t require too much legal paperwork.

A German-born immigrant woman to the city had struck up an affair with another one of the town’s immigrants. The two had a fight, and the woman fled to the movie theatre to clear her mind. But the man followed her there. He waited until the music got louder and then he strangled her to death, her screams masked by the tune. Today, people have been said to still hear screams coming from the second floor where the theatre once was.

Connor Hotel

Built in 1898 by David Connor, the Connor Hotel is one of Jerome precious jewels of the past. Formerly this hotel was built with over twenty rooms on the second floor to house all the different travelling miners, businessmen and contractors coming from all over the west to cash in on the natural resources to be found here Verde Valley. Rooms only cost $1.00 but back in that day that was a king’s ransom and the Connor Hotel didn’t disappoint. There were a bar, card room and even billiard tables on the first floor. Everything inside the Connor Hotel felt luxurious. It was the top of the line for hotels in the West, know all over Arizona. Just like the Bartlett hotel down the street, the Connor hotel also suffered at the hands of the flames and burned down in 1898.

Because there was so little land that could be built upon and all the buildings downtown were built do close together once a fire started, it spread very quickly, and there was no stopping it. But unlike many other shop owners, Connor had purchased insurance and was able to start construction on his new hotel very quickly. He made some lavish improvements on the previous hotel, including making this one in brick (much more fireproof) and was up and running right away.

Trouble at the Hotel

But as the mines began to run dry and the travelling miners went back home, the hotel started to run out of money. And by 1931 the hotel had to close its doors, for what they thought would be the last time. It still tried to rent out its first floor to different shops to make some money but the second floor remained dormant. It wasn’t until the late 60s with the tourist boom that it was transformed into a hotel once more. After a considerable renovation to update the hotel to modern safety codes and health standards, the hotel is inviting travellers back through its doors to experience a piece of history.

The Connor Hotel is haunted by an unnamed male spirit who loves to play with and manipulate electronics. He loves to turn on and off radios, TVs, telephones, and computers. This man’s presence can be sensed with cold spots in an otherwise warm room, or sometimes the echo of his voice can be heard calling from down the dark and creaky hallways.

Ms. Marie Gallagher

Another famous incident at the hotel involved a woman named Ann Hopkins. Ann’s husband was having an affair with a local school teacher, Ms. Marie Gallagher. In a jealous rage, Ann bought carbolic acid and waited till Gallagher was coming to the hotel to meet her husband. Ann caught her in the lobby and threw the acid in her face. The school teacher, Ms. Marie Gallagher, was not killed in the acid attack, but Ann was sent to jail for about 6 years, and came back to Jerome, living for a time inside the Connor Hotel room #1. Today, her spirit returns to haunt the hotel.

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The Spirit Room

On the lower level of the Connor Hotel, you’ll find the Spirit Room. Be sure to stop in here for a drink along your journey as the desert heat can leave any traveller mighty thirsty. This famous ghost sighting stop is a must-see building along your tour. Many people have seen a mysterious woman in red who comes into the Spirit Room to quench her ever-present thirst. She is a bit of a flirt and is thought to caresses the fingers, faces and necks of visitors. Whispering sweet nothings in their ears. If you take photos inside the spirit room, look for a red smudge, as this is her telltale lipstick stain. The lady in red has also been known to crawl right into bed with male guests who she takes a particular liking to.

Bartlett Hotel

The original building built on this spot was once called the Grandview Hotel and was constructed in 1895. It was a dancehall, a dining room and a high-society social club. In 1898 a great fire broke out throughout the city, and the hotel was destroyed. The Bartlett Hotel was rebuilt in 1901, this time using bricks, hoping this would help withstand another fire. It was a lavish hotel. Each room was decorated in a different colour, making every guest feel uniquely special.

The New Jerome’s Times, the longest-running newspaper, ran its offices out of the Bartlett hotel for 20 years until it had to shut its doors due to poor circulation. But in the late 1940s, the building became unstable and eventually abandoned. Now, all that’s left of it is the framing. The Jerome Historical Society has set up wooden ghosts for tourists to throw pennies into. The money collected is raised for future repairs and hopefully more preservation efforts throughout the city. 

Jerome Park

Across from the Bartlett, the hotel is the old Jerome Park. I hesitate to call it a park; it’s little more than a rusted swing set and an empty patch of land. But this is where one of the many deadly shootouts in Jerome took place. Alcohol and boredom fueled the fires of many a miner’s heads and after one too many, feuds between men, often over the love of a woman, would get heated enough to be taken outside and ended in a bloody shoot out. People often walking the streets at night have heard the sound of gunshots, but the shooter is never found and often thought to be echoes of the past.

Mile High Inn

Beside the park is the infamous Mile High Inn. This establishment was once owned by a woman named Madam Jennie Bauters. She was the wealthiest woman in northern Arizona. Jennie arrived in Jerome when it was nothing more than tents and shacks. There was no real main street to be heard of. But what there were was men. The original building which became the Mile High Inn was first the Clinkscales Building. It was built in 1899 by an insurance adjuster from Los Angeles. It was many things over the years, including a mortuary, one of Jennie’s Brothels, then a Hardware store when Jennie left Jerome in 1903.

The brothel was exceptionally well furnished, with a large front reception room and interior bedrooms dripping with luxurious velvet. These were for the elite of Jerome and Jennie made a pretty penny from these extravagances. The “sinful” business flourished, but despite her seemingly perfect life, Jennie had her fair share of troubles. One of her best girls, Maggie Shults, was murdered in the house by a rejected suitor. He shot her multiple times and then turned the gun on himself on the second floor.

Jennie’s Murderer

But Jennie didn’t let one measly murderer get her down. No, her business was booming, and she was buying up more and more property on Jerome’s main street. Jennie was killed in the small mining town called Acme Gold Road. The town changed its name to just ‘Gold Road’ in 1906. She was seen running down the street in her nightgown barefooted pleading for her life. Clement, her lover, was a gambler, heavy drinker, and always asked her for money. She turned him down one night for money, and he got angry and killed her.

After he realized what he had done he shot himself in the chest. The he lay down next to her dead body and covered his face with his hat, ready to die. He survived, was arrested and taken to jail, and was hung for Jennie’s murder in 1907. She was buried in Kingman at the old Pioneer cemetery. But has been seen still returning to Jerome to visit her old haunts.

Today’s Mile High Inn

Today, the Mile High Inn is much as it was in the 1940s, although remodelled to become a restaurant and hotel. The Madame herself is known to be seen roaming the halls of her institution, looking after the girls as she would have done in life. Jennie is pretty particular about how her home is kept and has been seen throwing dishes if they are not put away correctly or leaving fingerprints on the bed frames as she attempts to clean them. Visitors have come back to their room with the furniture moved around and doors locking and unlocking by themselves.

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First Episcopal Church

The First Episcopal Church was built in Jerome in 1900 but moved to its current building on Clark Street in 1927. Although the church closed its doors in 1953 when the mines closed, the Jerome Historical Society bought the property in 1953 to ensure it was not lost to the ages. Today they use this place for their archives and administration. If you come to her at twilight, you’ll get the chance to meet the church’s resident ghost. She is a woman, robed in white mist, who often stands in the doorway of the church, looking out at the town from this high vantage point.

The Haunted Hamburger

If you’re looking for a place to eat which serves up a side of the spooks, then you must head over to the Haunted Hamburger. While the menu is pretty standard diner fare, the ambience and stories from the locals you’ll learn while visiting are what you really come for. Chefs say that while in the kitchen, ghosts like to throw utensils around to tease them. Contractors swear that the ghosts have been known to steal their tools. A spirit by the name of Claire is thought to wander the second floor, and often you can head footsteps when they swear no one is up there.

Surgeon’s House

This old home, once the residence of the town’s surgeon, is haunted by many spirits. The surgeon was like a celebrity. He was often the richest man in Jerome who was old not a miner. He was a scholar and an educated man. Women were enthralled by these men from big cities. And miners were impressed by the stories they would tell of these lives, so different from the ones they knew. The Surgeons House was the site of many cocktail parties that would rage well into the late hours of the evening.

To this day, phantom music has been known to play, heard all across town. These days the old house is bed and breakfast. And guests have been known to see spectres dancing through the halls. These ghosts seem rather friendly and are just there to have a good time, as they did in life. A famous ghost dressed in a blue gown is frequently seen laughing through the halls. Often chasing a man seen carrying a leather doctors bag, perhaps the surgeon himself.

The Old Company Clinic

The Old Company Clinic was the second hospital to be built in Jerome. It was where, during the 1918 flu epidemic, hundreds of Jerome’s residents came to attempt to be treated. Unfortunately, hundreds of those people died, and their souls are thought to haunt this building. People claim to have said they’ve seen eyes in the windows and patients in turn of the century gowns walking around the 2nd floor. Doctors and nurses rush from room to room, as they would have done while they were alive, trying to cope with the hundreds of sick and dying people who came through their doors. The flu was genuinely horrific to behold and the imprint this terror wrought on the people who witnessed it made a lasting impression on the town, even years after the fateful events.

Crematory

When the third hospital was built, now the Grand Hotel, this one was left to rot. But not for long. The doctors and nurses began using it as a kind of social clubhouse in 1927, to retire in after a long day at work. It had a library, pool tables and lounge. But once the winter came, they found there was no heating in the building. Going on at the same time, the new hospital realized they did not have a working crematory to dispose of their dead bodies. Never to squander an opportunity, the doctors saw a solution to both their problems. They began using the crematory in the old hospital to burn bodies and heat their clubhouse all at once. Despite the ingenuity of the solution, this imbued the entire place with ghosts angry to be thought of as nothing more than coal for these doctors.

Ghost of the Little Girl

The last famous ghost to see if you can spot is that of a little girl. She is often seen sitting near the front door of the old hospital waiting for her mother. Her mother had come down with the flu and the little girl starved to death waiting for her mother to return home, although she never did as she died in hospital of the flu. The little girl often will only come out to maternal figures who she thinks might be her mother returning to her.

Asylum Restaurant

The Award-Winning Asylum Restaurant located at the Jerome Grand Hotel offers lunch and dinner services every day. The restaurant overlooks the entire Verde Valley and provides the diners one of the most amazing views. Although the name seems a bit cheesy, the decor inside is beautiful art deco from the period the building was constructed. The food is all classic dishes and is wonderfully prepared by some of the best chefs in the Valley. The select dishes include Pastrami Salad, Char-Broiled Chilean Grilled Salmon and Mesquite Bacon Wrapped Filet Mignon. If you’re looking for a spot to eat dinner, this is an excellent choice for something a little more luxurious!

The Grand Hotel

The new Jerome Grand Hotel was initially built in 1926 as the Verde County Hospital. The hospital was designed in the Spanish mission revival style of architecture which was so popular at the time. It was one of the last significant buildings to be constructed in Jerome. Since it was so far away from the city centre, it avoided a lot of the fires that broke out downtown and therefore remained its original facade. Also, because it was a hospital and contained so many expensive machines, it was made to be fireproof and withstand dynamite blasts of up to 260,000 pounds.

In 1926 it was the most modern and well-equipped hospitals in Arizona as the mining finances paid for the best services money could afford. But by the 50s, when the mining dried up, the hospital closed down. The building stood unused for 44 years until it was renovated by the Altherr family in 1994 and was turned into a hotel for tourists. The family made many efforts to keep the structure and design of the original hospital to maintain its historical memory. But this also kept within its walls, the ghosts who passed away inside these walls. It was thought that over 9,000 people lost their lives here in this very spot.

Ghosts of the Hotel

Even if you’re not staying in the hotel, venture inside the lobby where some of the most restless spirits are found. Sitting in the dimly lit waiting room, you might spot the old woman in elegant clothes who is thought to be waiting for her husband. Items have flown off the gift shop shelves, doors close on their own and the front desk phone often rings with calls from unoccupied rooms. Behind the front desk of the lobby is still in working 1920’s elevator.

Claude Harvey

The most famous ghost of them all who lives in the hotel is Claude Harvey. Claude was a maintenance worker in the hospital during the 1930s. Claude was well-liked by everyone in town, and when he was found dead at the bottom of the elevator shaft, pinned under the elevator, everyone was shocked. There was an official inquest into his death where they discovered that his neck had been broken before the fall, and there were several strange scratch marks on his body not caused by the fall. In the end, the death was ruled an accident, but many people in town thought otherwise.

Shortly after his death, strange occurrences began at the hospital, specifically around the elevator. Even when no one is inside the lights go on and off and it sounds like someone is walking around inside. The owners went so far as to think someone had been breaking into the hospital and living there unbeknownst to anyone else, but no one was ever found. To this day, any strange occurrences in the elevator are thought to be the ghost of Claude.

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The Old Hospital Ghosts

The 3rd floor was where the operating room was and where most patients lost their lives. For years people have reported hearing coughing, painful groans and cries of distress echoing through the halls. Despite replacing the old wooden floorboards with sound cancelling carpet, guests have been known to hear the rolling of old hospital gurneys on wood floors. The most famous spirit on the 3rd floor is that of an old bearded miner who has been seen turning the lights on and off in the hallways.

Strange occurrences have happened to the living inside the hotel as well. In-room number 32, a man in wheelchair mysteriously managed to fall off a balcony, reportedly committing suicide. In the same room, only a few years later, a businessman shot himself in the face. A caretaker was hanged, and there were multiple murders throughout the hotel. Although this could be due to the “wildness” of the town, the thought of these deaths being influenced by ghosts of the past is hard not to imagine.

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Maternity Ward

On the 4th floor, where the maternity ward once was, there is a ghost of a mother who lost her baby in childbirth. She still roams the halls, frantically searching for her little baby. People report smells coming from unoccupied rooms such as cigar smoke and whiskey, in the waiting room where expectant fathers would have once waited.

United Verde Mine

From the parking lot of the Grand Hotel, you have a beautiful view across Verde Valley, and the old United Verde Mines. Beneath the entire city of Jerome, there are old mine shafts and tunnels which are thought to be the resting place of hundreds of miners. One famous ghost is named “headless Charlie” who was decapitated in an accident years ago. His head was recovered but the rest of him, much like the headless horsemen, was never found. After his death, many other miners would report hearing groaning and shuffling as if it was the ghost of Charlie searching for his lost head.

Today, standing on the cliff of these mines, the wind can play tricks on you, and you might hear what sounds like the echos of men trapped beneath the earth for eternity. Cries in the distance are a common occurrence, and here in the uneasy quiet, there is almost always something which can trick your mind into thinking it heard something quite not of this earth…or many it was just that.

Jason S. Voss

A BIG thanks to Jason S. Voss, who helped clear up a few facts for us! Jason has worked for the Jerome Historical Society and works for Jerome’s oldest local tour company, Tours Of Jerome. He is also an amazing local artist. Feel free to contact him for a personal tour of the city! Jason was a contributor to the book “Haunted Jerome” which just came out 3 months ago written by Midge Stueber and Pat Jacobson. If you’re interested in learning more about Jerome I would highly recommend you pick up a copy!

I’ve been to Jerome multiple times, and the people who live here LOVE telling stories. In addition to taking this walking tour, make time to chat with the locals as everyone seems to have had their own personal ghost encounter which they are eager to share! If you’ve ever had your own haunted happening let me know in the comments!

HAPPY HALLOWEEN ADVENTURERS

The post Explore the eerily beautiful haunted streets of Jerome, Arizona, on a self-guided walking tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Klementinum is a large building complex that stretches across an entire city block. Since the 15th century, astronomers, scientists, philosophers and musicians have poured through its door to study the precious books inside. These great men of science and art came together here. Each influenced the other and developed some of the modern era’s most incredible inventions. The Klementinum is home to several important institutions, including the National Library of the Czech Republic. But it is also an architectural and cultural treasure. With its stunning Baroque facade, beautiful courtyards, and intricate decoration, the Klementinum is a true feast for the eyes. So, join us as we discover the hidden gems and hidden stories of this beautiful complex.

Table Of Contents

1. Access & Admission
2. History
3. Great Mirror Chapel
4. 2nd Floor
5. The Great Library
6. The Bookshelves
7. Globes
8. The Meridian Hall
9. Viewpoint

Access & Admission

The only way to get into the libraries is by a guided tour (unless you’re a Czech scholar). These run about every hour and are worth every penny! For tour times and hours, visit their website.

To find the entrance to the tour, you walk through a small set of wooden doors near the church. Inside you will see a ticket booth with a cramped employee sitting behind the glass. After purchasing your ticket, you wait for your tour guide. Once they arrive, you’ll be whisked off throughout this gorgeous building.

Tickets cost: 300 Kc for Adults ($13 USD), 200 Kc ($9 USD) for Students and Seniors and children are free.

History

The Klementinum dates all the way back to the 11th century. It was formerly a tiny chapel dedicated to Saint Clement run by Dominican monks. The Hapsburg Emperor Ferdinand I wanted to help increase his power within the Roman Catholic Church and in Bohemia (now Prague). To do this, he invited the Jesuits into his city.

Wanting to make them feel more at home and give them some sense of importance, the Emperor gifted them the building now known as the Klementinum. It had a prime location, right across from the Charles Bridge, and was an excellent gift for the order.

In 1556, the library’s development began. By 1653 they had managed to build one of the most significant collections of books and the literary material in Europe. When the entire library was finished, it was the most massive building in Prague, after Prague Castle. Eventually, the Jesuits fell out with the Pope. So in 1773, the library was given over to Prague’s people and became a part of Charles University.

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Great Mirror Chapel

The first room that the guide will take you into is the Great Mirror Chapel. The architecture of the Klementinum varies from room to room, as different parts of the building were built during different periods. This room, however, is an excellent example of Baroque architecture. The Mirror Chapel was built in 1724 and features ornate frescoes, mirrors, the ceiling, and intricate gilded stucco. The rust-coloured walls and peach-painted ceiling are a unique touch. They make the chamber glow and make the visitor feel warm and cozy.

The faux marble columns along the walls each contain a beautifully framed work of art. These works of art were primarily created by Jan Hiebl, a Czech artist of little note. But Hiebl made a significant impression on the people who visit this chapel. One of the most important things to look at here is the two organs. The first was played by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart on his visits to the Klementinum.

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This chapel can also be visited if you buy tickets to one of their “Classical Concerts.” These concerts are a fantastic option for visiting the Klementinum outside a guided tour. You will be treated to music from the 18th century played on the historic organ during the show. Usually performed by gifted local musicians. The very same organ played by Mozart himself now hosts new talented musicians hoping to become the following great composer!

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2nd Floor

After soaking in all the beauty inside the chapel, your guide leads up the first set of narrow stairs to the 2nd floor. This is where the historic library is housed. On the way to the library, you pass by various glass cabinets of curiosity. These different house instruments are used by astronomers to explore the skies, track weather and map constellations.

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The corridor is covered in ornate stucco, and the ceiling contains frescoes. Each scene is drawn from prominent literary writings, like echoes of the past, leading you down toward your destination.

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Although you can’t walk inside the library and pick up any books, there are various special volumes under the glass. These examples give you a glimpse of the books you’d find on the shelves within. Each one is masterfully handpainted with perfect calligraphy and illustration on every page. Monks would spend a lifetime creating a few copies of the same book. They would disperse the copies to only a few prestigious libraries worldwide.

The Great Library

As the guide leads you to the only open set of doors, you will be immediately taken aback by the tremendous amount of things to look at inside the Great Library. The shelves housing over 20,000 books from the early 17th century onwards are a stunning display. There is a sea of baroque finishings washing over the walls.

The ceiling features a large fresco, an original part of 18th-century design. The paintings on the ceiling depict the Temple of Wisdom, a city from Greek Mythology, which was thought to have housed thousands of theological volumes dating back to 1600. Jan Hiebl, the same artist who painted the frescos in the Mirror Chapel, also did these frescos. He uses light and shadow to create a domed effect even on the flat ceiling. Hiebl spent tireless hours giving the illusion of natural sunlight pouring into space despite natural light being restricted to protect the books from damage.

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The Bookshelves

The bookshelves are carved from stunning dark wood, which shines even in the dim light. Some columns are carved into spirals, topped off with gold capitals. Above the tops of each bookshelf are golden frames with the names of prominent Jesuits inscribed on them. These Jesuits were the people who helped build this impressive library.

The books in the collection consist mainly of theological volumes in various foreign languages. It also contains a Mozartiana, a book about the life of Tycho Brahe and Comenius. You’d also find historical examples of famous Czech literature. Some of the collections’ books are so rare and unique that they have been given to Google to be digitally preserved online for everyone to see.

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Globes

In the centre of the room are various globes of different sizes, displaying historical diagrams and maps of the world. You can see how opinions have changed throughout the years on the map of the world. The shapes of continents would grow or shrink based on the newest technology or information. There are also several sets of celestial globes to be found here. Celestial spheres show the position of the stars in the sky.

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The Meridian Hall

Although you might not want to leave, eventually, the tour guide must move on. You are taken to the next floor, which contains Meridian Hall. The Meridian Hall was an invention designed to determine and mark twelve noon. When the scientists inside would see that noon had come (based on their instruments), they would ring the bells from the top of the bell tower. This would indicate to the rest of the town that it was midday. Alongside the Meridian Hall is several weather recording devices that note the temperature as early as 1775. These are even still used today to continue to record the weather.

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Viewpoint

You can mount the final, very narrow, rickety set of stairs to walk out onto the bell tower. You must climb up 172 steps to get to the top of the building. But you’ll be rewarded with a stunning 360° view of Prague’s red-topped roofs.

Being up here helps you understand where everything is in Prague. You can see all the important landmarks, and bronze diagrams help identify all the famous buildings you’re looking down at. This was so helpful since we’d see something far off in the distance and want to make a note of tracking it down once back on land.

Seeing as the tour group is so small, you have this view all to yourself once the group spreads out. It was so romantic and truly an oasis of serenity in a city which can be overwhelming and full of tourists.

A massive bronze sculpture of Atlas holds up the world on the very top of the bell tower. On our way out, we looked at the top of the tower from where we were once standing. The Klementinum and the Strahov Monastery are my two favourite landmarks in Prague. You MUST visit them if you’re ever in the city, especially if you’re a library lover like me!

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Table Of Contents

1. History of Dresden Frauenkirche
   • WWII
   • Frauenkirche Restoration
2. Current Frauenkirche
3. The Golden Cross
4. Baroque Interior
   • Protestant Liturgy
   • Organ
   • Stone Bell
5. Walking up the Dome
6. View over Dresden

History of Dresden Frauenkirche

The original building that once stood here was a traditional Roman Catholic Cathedral. It was during the Reformation that this new Baroque Lutheran design came to replace the old Catholic Church. The new model was considered one of the best examples of Protestant architecture, and it holds up one of the largest domes in all of Europe atop its octagonal base. For decades, the dome and its golden cross were the crowning glories of the Dresden skyline.

WWII

During WWII, the Church was heavily bombed. On February 13th, 1945, the American and British forces dropped thousands of bombs on Dresden. The Church has withstood bombings and attacks, but never to this extent. The Church stood its ground for two days of constant bombing runs. People had come to the Church to seek refuge, and for those two days, the eight massive sandstone pillars protected these people and no doubt saved their lives. But even the strongest must fall. And after 650,000 bombs, the heat generated inside and outside the Church caused the pillars inside to explode. Some claim that they glowed bright red and shattered into a million pieces.

Frauenkirche Restoration

After the war, people who loved their Church took the pieces of shattered and blackened sandstones and piled them together. They collected these pieces hoping the former heart of the city would be rebuilt one day. But they had to wait over 45 years, through communism, until their Church would return to the people. The communists were not interested in spending money to reconstruct the Church, but dedicated art historians, priests and even the congregation began salvaging and categorizing the stones. These stones became a memorial to those lost at war, and in 1982 it was the place where people would meet to protest the East German regime. Finally, after reunification, the reconstruction of the Church would begin.

In 1989, a 14-member group of enthusiasts headed by Ludwig Güttler, a noted Dresden musician, formed a Citizens’ Initiative to raise money for the restoration. Architecture, art historians and engineers sorted the thousands of stones, identifying and labelling each for reuse in the new structure. An American, Günter Blobel, had fond memories of the Church when he was a boy as he had originally been born in Germany before moving to America. In 1994 he won the Nobel prize and donated his $1 million prizes to the Dresden Church of our Lady resolution. In the end, rebuilding the Church cost €180 million dollars, most of which was raised by private citizens. Outside the front doors of the Church lies an original piece of the dome, blackened from the explosion, as a memorial to the original Church and those who died trying to protect it.

Current Frauenkirche

To this day, you can stand outside the Church and see the original piece of stone that has been used in the Church’s restoration. These stones are covered with a darker patina due to the fire and weathering, but in a few more hundred years, the rest of these new sandstones will also become weathered and blend into the original stones. It was a sight to see as it is, making out the immensity of stones salvaged by everyday citizens.

The Golden Cross

The most moving piece of restoration is the new golden tower cross. The cross was funded by “the British people and the House of Windsor” and was made by a British blacksmith whose father was one of the bomber pilots responsible for the Church’s destruction. It shows how two countries, once at war, can unite to help repair the scars of war and create something beautiful.

Baroque Interior

The original Baroque Church was built between 1726 and 1743 by Dresden’s city architect, George Bähr. The Church is bright and covered from head to toe in pastel colours. When restoring the Church, artists used paintings and photographs of the original colouring to restore it to its former brilliance. Some people might not believe these colours could have been utilized in the 17th century, but the Baroque architecture was obsessed with pastel colours. Bähr especially loved green and gold and accented the Church with these trimmings. The windows are made of clear glass, and although this might look like an oversight or work in progress from the restoration, it is actually on purpose. The architect wanted the pure sunlight to filter through the windows, unheeded by stained glass, to illuminate the inside of the Church further.

Protestant Liturgy

Bähr incorporated the new Protestant liturgy by placing the altar, pulpit, and baptismal font up front for all to see. He made the front middle section of the Church the real stunner and left the rest of the Church to only compliment this glowing altarpiece and organ. One important aspect of Baroque architecture was the element of illusion. As such, a church that couldn’t afford hundreds of slabs of marble created its own by painting marbling patterns along all the sandstone columns which hold up the immense dome. The Baroque painters and architects are masters of light and shade, and using this can create illusions that make the building seem longer, wider and even more detailed.

Organ

In 1736, famed organ maker Gottfried Silbermann built this incredible three storeys manual organ for the Church. On the day it was inaugurated into the Church, Johann Sebastian Bach performed a recital to an audience of hundreds. One can only imagine the music he would have produced from this grandiose machine.

Below the organ, you can see, well, how can you miss, the large altar. This altar depicts Jesus’ agony in the Garden of Gethsemane. You can see the olive trees behind him and him praying to the angel coming down from heaven, accented in gold. By some miracle, this piece partly survived the bombing and the fire that destroyed the Church. Some of the figurines had pieces broken off but were more easily restored, leaving us a real original piece of the Church today.

Stone Bell

Other than the altarpiece, the most important part of this building is the 96-metre-tall dome. The name of the dome is “die Steinerne Glocke” or “Stone Bell.” At the time, it was a real feat of engineering and required 12,000 tonnes of sandstone to support.

The frescos painted around the dome are scenes of the four evangelists Matthew, Mark, Luke and John, and allegories of the Christian virtues of belief, love, hope and mercy. These baroque frescos are painted with lighter hands; they were meant to reflect not only the lives of the evangelists but the lives of the ordinary people. The scenes are set on earth and seem more related to people. You can see many of the details on the wall frescos and the dome by ceiling up to the top of the dome. This requires an entry fee but is perhaps one of the city’s best views and the Church itself.

Walking up the Dome

The winding and spiralling staircase lead you to a tiny trapdoor which you climb through to suddenly come through to a viewing platform with a stunning view of the city.

View over Dresden

From here, you have a 360° view across the Elbe and Dresden. We were up there on a clear day and could see past the city and surrounding countryside. You can see the Dresden Academy of Fine Arts and Brühl’s Terrace. Around the corner, you can see the central historic district. You can see the pointed spire of the Dresden Castle, the green onion down of the Roman Catholic Church, the Orange roofs of the Dresden State Art Collections, and the Glass roof of the Dresden Green Vault.

You can see the newly restored square and all the little dots of people below. During the restoration and after the war, this square was where they stored all the thousands of pieces of rubble; now that the construction is done, the square has opened back up to the public – and they have been greatly enjoying having it back. As well as their stunning Church, which anchors the centre of the city.

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