County Clare sits on the west coast of Ireland, bounded by the Atlantic to the west, Galway Bay to the north, and the Shannon estuary to the south. It is one of the more geographically dramatic counties in the country, moving from the limestone plateau of the Burren in the north through rolling farmland in the middle to the sea cliffs of the Wild Atlantic Way along its western edge. Two of the best areas to stay in Clare are either in Doolin or Ballyvaughan, where you can awaken in the morning and head off early to enjoy dawn along the Cliffs of Moher.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Cliffs of Moher, Doolin & Burren
2. Where to Stay to Explore the Cliffs of Moher
3. Parking, Pricing, and Getting to the Cliffs of Moher
4. Exploring the Cliffs of Moher
5. O'Brien's Tower 
6. Doolin
7. Lunch at Fitz's Pub
8. Doolin Caves
9. Into the Burren
10. Kilfenora
11. Ballyvaughan | O'Loclainn's Whiskey Bar
12. Doolin | Russells Seafood Bar

Map of Cliffs of Moher, Doolin & Burren

Where to Stay to Explore the Cliffs of Moher

Doolin sits about eight kilometres north of the Cliffs of Moher visitor centre. Ballyvaughan is roughly forty minutes further up into the Burren along the coast road, and either spot works as a base. The big tour coaches from Galway, Limerick, and Dublin typically arrive at the cliffs between ten and eleven in the morning, so being so close to the Cliffs means you can arrive early, without having to be up far too early to be able to enjoy the experience when you get there.

My recommendation for where to sleep is The Burren Country House in Ballyvaughan, which sits on the southern shore of Galway Bay at the foot of the Burren. Ballyvaughan itself is a quiet, unhurried village, the kind of place where not much appears to happen and where that is entirely the point. The house is a traditional country property with rooms that feel personal rather than hotel-standard, each styled a little differently in a way that suggests someone made actual choices rather than ordering from a catalogue. The Mountain Suite is the one to book if it is available. The views over the surrounding Burren landscape from that room look almost unreasonably good in the early morning, the limestone catching whatever light is coming in from the bay.

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Parking, Pricing, and Getting to the Cliffs of Moher

Driving Instructions

The R478 from Doolin south toward the cliffs is a narrow road through open farmland, the fields divided by stone walls built without mortar in a method that has not changed in centuries. You will pass a few scattered houses, a silage shed or two, maybe a tractor pulling out of a gate. The Atlantic appears on your left before you reach the car park, glimpsed through gaps in the land, grey and flat and enormous.

From Ballyvaughan, you have two ways to reach the cliffs. The faster option takes you south on the N67 through Lisdoonvarna, up and over Corkscrew Hill, a series of tight switchbacks that climb sharply above the Burren plateau. At the top, if the morning is clear, you stop and look back over a landscape that appears to have no end. Then you drop down toward the coast and join the R478 into the cliffs. The whole drive takes around forty-five minutes.

The slower option follows the coast road, the R477, west from Ballyvaughan through Fanore and around Black Head, the limestone coming right down to the water’s edge and the Aran Islands visible across the bay on a clear morning. This route adds around twenty minutes but moves through some of the more quietly extraordinary scenery in Clare. On an early morning with almost nothing on the road, it feels considerably shorter.

Cliffs of Moher Hours

The opening hours change significantly depending on the time of year, which matters if you are planning an early arrival. From May through August, the site opens at 8 am and stays open until 9 pm. In March, April, September, and October, the hours run from 8 am until 7 pm. In the winter months, November through February, it is 9 am to 5 pm. The site is closed on the 24th, 25th, and 26th of December. For the most up-to-date information, you can head to their official website.

Parking

The main car park sits on the opposite side of the road from the visitor centre and the cliffs themselves. When you drive in during staffed hours, you pull up to an admission pod, show your tickets, and get exchanged for site passes that give you access to everything on the grounds. To access the cliffs, you do need to purchase an admission ticket, which includes your parking fee.

Book your tickets in advance online to save some money, as the rate at the gate is €15 per adult, which is €3 more than if you book online. There is also an online off-peak rate, which applies from opening until eleven in the morning and again from four in the afternoon until closing. These tickets only cost €8, compared to €12 during peak hours or €15 at the gate without advanced admission. Children under twelve are free when accompanied by a parent or guardian, with a maximum of four children per adult.

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There is an alternative car park worth knowing about, signposted as the Cliffs of Moher Liscannor Walk, which sits south of the main entrance. It runs on an honesty box system at around four euros per car. The tradeoff is a longer walk to the cliff edge, so factor that in, depending on your time and how much walking you are planning to do on the path itself.If parking is something you would rather not think about, the Burren and Cliffs Explorer shuttle bus is worth knowing about. It is a free hop-on, hop-off service connecting the cliffs with several nearby villages, including Doolin, Liscannor, Kilfenora, Lisdoonvarna, and Corofin. That said, it is worth booking a Free Day Pass in advance through their website. The pass costs nothing but helps the service plan capacity for the day, and on busy summer days, that can make a real difference to whether there is a seat available when you need one. You can check their more up-to-date timetable here.

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Cliffs of Moher Accessibility

One accessibility note. There are designated disabled parking spaces in both the main car park and the coach parking area near the visitor centre. The site also operates two electric mobility buggies, called the Lifts of Moher, driven by trained staff and designed to give less mobile visitors access to the viewing platforms and cliff-edge areas they might not otherwise reach. Wheelchairs are available from the car park office and the visitor centre front desk. The main paved path is accessible, though the site notes that natural terrain can affect the surface, so conditions vary.

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Notes about the Weather

The weather is worth taking seriously. The cliffs have a due-west Atlantic exposure, and the conditions can shift from bright and clear to thick fog in a matter of minutes. The site follows Met Éireann weather warning protocols and will close in extreme conditions. Check met.ie the morning you plan to visit, particularly if you are going in autumn or winter. A good rain jacket is not optional here, regardless of what the forecast says.

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Puffins Nest café

If you’re looking to grab something to warm you up, or some instant caffeination, you should head into the Puffins Nest café which sits inside the visitor centre. The Cliffs View Café outside runs a takeaway service if you would rather stay in the open air, which on a clear morning is the obvious choice.

The visitor centre doesn’t open until 8 am in peak season and 9 am in winter, which means the café follows the same hours. If an early coffee matters to you, and after a few days on an Irish road trip it probably does, grab one in Doolin or Ballyvaughan before you set off. Or pick one up at a service station. Then drink it at the cliff edge while the light is still low, and the car park is half empty. That particular combination is one of the better ones this part of Clare has to offer, and no café on site is going to improve on it.

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Exploring the Cliffs of Moher

The main pathway runs along the top of the cliff for about eight kilometres between Hag’s Head to the south and Doolin to the north. Most people only walk a short section near the centre, which means the further north or south you go, the more quickly the crowds thin. Even in peak season, ten minutes of walking in either direction produces a substantial improvement in solitude.

The cliffs themselves are composed of alternating bands of limestone and shale, laid down around three hundred and thirty million years ago when this part of the world sat near the equator and was covered by a warm, shallow sea. What you see in the rock face is the compressed remnants of that sea floor: sediment, shell, organic material, all of it slowly transformed under pressure. The fossils are there if you look, though they are easier to see in the loose rock along the path than in the cliff face itself.

O’Brien’s Tower 

O’Brien’s Tower stands at the highest point of the cliffs, one hundred and fourteen metres above the Atlantic. It was built in 1835 by Sir Cornelius O’Brien, a local landlord and Member of Parliament who had a pronounced interest in promoting the area to tourists and an equally pronounced interest in having his name attached to things. He also built several roads in this part of Clare, partly to improve access and partly, one suspects, for the same reason. The Tower was intended as an observation point for visitors, which makes it one of the earliest pieces of deliberate tourism infrastructure in the country. It has functioned as such ever since, which O’Brien would likely find satisfying.

What is worth paying attention to, especially in the early morning, is the light on the far side of the cliffs. Looking south from the main viewing area, the cliff face curves away from you, each headland progressively more distant, the colour shifting from the dark wet grey of the nearest rock to something almost blue at the furthest point. On a clear morning, you can see the Aran Islands sitting low in the water, Inis Mór closest and largest. The islands were formed from the same Burren limestone that continues beneath the water. Standing at the cliff edge and looking out at them, you are essentially looking at the seaward extension of the landscape you will be walking through later in the day.

Doolin

After a thorough exploration around the Cliffs, it might be time to grab something to eat. For lunch, we’re going to return to Doolin to explore a little bit more of this quaint town. From the cliffs takes perhaps fifteen minutes by car. The village, such as it is, sits on either side of a small river, the Aille, which runs through a narrow valley and into the sea at a small harbour. The harbour is where the ferries leave for the Aran Islands, a crossing that takes around thirty to forty-five minutes, depending on which island you are heading to.

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What is worth knowing about Doolin itself is that it is a younger settlement than it appears. The pubs and the traditional music scene have given it a cultural identity that feels like it’s been here forever, but the village is actually largely a twentieth-century development. Before that, this was simply a stretch of farming land close to the shore, the area around it historically more associated with the Aran Islands trade than with any particular settlement.

Lunch at Fitz’s Pub

Fitz’s Pub, which sits within Hotel Doolin, is where we headed and where I would send anyone doing this day. It is a proper pub, with polished timber and a menu that runs what they call a thirty-mile approach, meaning almost everything on the plate comes from within that radius. On the west Clare coast, that means seafood. Order the seafood platter. The kitchen pulls from what is genuinely local: Flaggy Shore oysters, Burren smoked salmon, Galway Bay mussels, crab from the waters just up the road. It is the kind of lunch that makes you slow down without meaning to.

On the drinks side, ask for the Dooliner. It is Fitz’s own beer, a red ale they developed specifically for the Pub, smooth and slightly sweet with a toasted malt character that sits well alongside seafood. They have also added a Dooliner Lager if you want something lighter. Either way, this is not the moment for a Guinness imported from somewhere else. Drink what they made here. Food is served from 12:30 pm, and the Pub operates on a first-come, first-served basis with no reservations, so if you are arriving during the peak summer season, aim for the earlier side of lunch before the midday crowd builds. While the music tends to begin later in the evening, if you’re there on the weekend, you might be lucky enough to catch some trad music with your lunch.

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Doolin Caves

After lunch, the drive to Doolin Cave takes about five minutes. It sits just off the R479 heading north toward Fanore, two kilometres outside the village, and the sign is easy to miss if you are not watching for it. Give yourself a moment to let the seafood settle before you descend 125 steps into the ground. The cave’s Irish name is Poll an Eidhneáin, which translates roughly as Ivy Cliff Cave, and it sat entirely unknown, at least to the wider world, until the summer of 1952. That June, a group of twelve men arrived in Lisdoonvarna from the Yorkshire Dales in England, members of the Craven Pothole Club on what they called the Whitsuntide Expedition. Two of them, Brian Varley and J.M. Dickenson, broke away from the group on the Sunday morning after noticing a small stream disappearing under a cliff face the previous day. They followed it, crawled through a narrow passage, and emerged into a chamber that no one had stood in before. One of them wrote afterward that as their lamps circled the hall, they picked out a gigantic stalactite set proudly in the very centre, and that they tiptoed to the base of it, not daring to speak in case their voices, the first ever to sound in that space, would bring it down.

It has not come down. It is 7.3 metres long, weighs around ten tonnes, and hangs from the ceiling of the main chamber exactly as it did when those two men crawled in from the field above. Formed from a single continuous drop of water over roughly seventy thousand years, it is the longest free-hanging stalactite in the northern hemisphere. Standing beneath it, you understand why they tiptoed.

The tour descends through a system of low passages before opening into the main chamber, and the guide switches the lighting on to reveal the stalactite from a viewing platform partway up. Then you move down to the base for a full three-hundred-and-sixty-degree view. From there, the tour continues into a second chamber where the floor was once a seabed, the fossilized remains of marine creatures visible in the rock underfoot, the same three-hundred-and-fifty-million-year-old limestone you have been standing on all day, just this time lit from below. The tour ends beside an underground river that runs through the chamber and disappears into the rock before reappearing on the surface further down the hill.

Tickets start from €19.50 for adults, with reduced rates for seniors, students, and children aged six and over. Children under three are not admitted on the tour. Book online in advance at Doolincave.ie, particularly in summer when tours fill up quickly. The whole thing takes around forty-five minutes. A few things worth knowing before you go: the cave is not wheelchair accessible, and the passages are genuinely low in places, so anyone with claustrophobia should think carefully. Children under three are not permitted on the tour. Opening hours run from 9:30 am to 4:30 pm in winter and stretch to 7:30 pm in peak summer, which means if you have timed the day well, the cave fits naturally into the early afternoon before heading on into the Burren.

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Into the Burren

From Doolin Cave, take the R476 east. The drive to the Burren National Park takes around thirty minutes and covers just under thirty kilometres. Within the first few of them, the landscape starts to change in ways that are difficult to articulate but impossible to miss. The coast falls away behind you. The farms get thinner. The stone walls get lower and more irregular. Then the trees stop, and the grass stops with them, and the limestone takes over completely.

This is the Burren, and no amount of reading about it quite prepares you for the first time you see it properly. It is not dramatic in the way the cliffs are dramatic. There is no single moment of revelation. It accumulates, kilometre by kilometre, until you realize you have been driving through something that looks like no other landscape in Ireland and very few in the world. The word itself comes from the Irish boíreann, meaning stony place, which is accurate in the way that calling the Atlantic wet is accurate. It tells you something, but not the main thing.

Kilfenora

About halfway along the R476, the road passes through Kilfenora. Stop here. The village is small enough to miss if you are not paying attention, but it sits at the geographical heart of the Burren and has been important to this landscape for a very long time. The ruined cathedral on the edge of the village dates to the twelfth century, built during a period when this part of Clare was caught between competing claims from the Gaelic kingdoms of Connacht and Munster and the newly arrived Normans, all of them moving through and around each other in ways that left marks on every significant building in the region. The diocese of Kilfenora was one of the smallest in Ireland, and one of the stranger pieces of its history is that the Pope has been the nominal bishop since the eighteenth century, a technicality that has never quite been resolved.

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The high crosses in and around the cathedral grounds are the reason most people stop. Several have been moved inside or under cover to protect them from the weather, which has already worn their carved figures to near smoothness over eight or nine centuries. One remains outside in the adjoining field, slightly tilted, its surface softened by centuries of rain.

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The Burren

Back on the road, continue on the R476 and then take the L1112 toward Kilnaboy and on to Carrownamaddra. This is where the Burren National Park begins in earnest. The information point is in Corofin, about five kilometres further along at the Clare Heritage Centre on Church Street, and it is the right place to start if you are planning to walk any of the trails. The staff there are genuinely knowledgeable and will tell you which routes are best suited to your time and fitness, which matters here more than in most places because the terrain is uneven in ways that are easy to underestimate.

The park itself has no entry fee and no opening hours. What it has is limestone pavement in the purest form you will find anywhere, the surface cracked into flat, irregular blocks called clints with deep fissures between them called grykes. The grykes are where the Burren’s famous flora survives, sheltered from the wind and from grazing animals. In those narrow cracks, you find Mediterranean plants growing alongside Arctic-alpine ones, species that have no reasonable business sharing the same ecosystem anywhere else in Europe. The spring gentian arrives in April and May, an almost electric blue against the grey rock: mountain avens, bloody cranesbill, maidenhair fern. The combination exists because of the mild Atlantic climate, the alkaline limestone, and the fact that this landscape was left alone for long enough that ancient plant communities survived intact. Ecologists have been trying to fully account for it for decades without entirely succeeding.

From Corofin, a free shuttle bus runs to the trailhead at Gortlecka Cross from May through August, leaving fourteen times a day from 9:30 am with the last return at 5:15 pm. The trails from there range from a thirty-minute loop to a full three-hour hike over Mullaghmore hill. If the afternoon is clear and you have the energy left after the cliffs and the cave, the Mullaghmore route is one of the more quietly extraordinary walks in Clare. The hill is not high, but the views from the top across the plateau, the limestone stretching in every direction with nothing interrupting it, stay with you in a way that the more obvious scenery of the day does not always manage.

If walking is not the plan, the drive alone through this part of the Burren is worth doing slowly. Pull over wherever there is space and step out. The silence, or near silence, is part of it. So is the scale of the rock underfoot. You are standing on a compressed seabed three hundred and fifty million years old, and the fossilized remains of the creatures that lived in that sea are in the stone beneath your feet if you look closely enough.

Corcomroe Abbey

If you have time before the day ends, continue east along the coast road from Ballyvaughan toward Bell Harbour and take the short turn inland to Corcomroe Abbey. If you are heading back to Ballyvaughan at the end of the day rather than heading to Doolin, it is worth taking the detour to Corcomroe Abbey. From the park, head west on Corcomroe Road for about a kilometre and a half, turn left onto the L1016 and then right onto the L1014. From there, the R480 takes you north for a couple of kilometres before joining the R476, which runs the remaining eight kilometres or so back toward Ballyvaughan. The abbey sits hidden in a quiet valley just off this route and adds very little time to the drive. It is an early thirteenth-century Cistercian ruin, its limestone walls still largely standing, its carved stonework detailed enough to suggest the quality of the artisans brought here to build it. There is rarely anyone else there. The valley around it is genuinely still, and the light on the stone in the late afternoon is as good as anything you will have seen all day.

It sits hidden in a valley, a twelfth-century Cistercian ruin built from the same limestone as everything else in this landscape, its walls still largely standing, its carved stonework detailed enough to suggest the quality of the craftsmen brought here to build it. It is not on many itineraries. There is rarely anyone else there. The valley around it is quiet in a way that feels specifically undisturbed, and the light on the stone in the late afternoon is as good as anything you will have seen all day.

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Ballyvaughan | O’Loclainn’s Whiskey Bar

If you are based in Ballyvaughan rather than Doolin, the evening has one more stop worth making before you turn in. O’Loclainn’s Whiskey Bar sits on the main street in Ballyvaughan in a building that looks from the outside like it has been there forever, which is more or less accurate. The bar has been in the same family for seven generations, which means it predates most things you might think of as permanent.

The whiskey collection is what O’Loclainn’s is known for, and the reputation is deserved. Over four hundred bottles are displayed around the bar, ranging from standard Irish expressions most people will recognize to rare single malts from distilleries that no longer exist, and bottles that visitors have sent back as gifts from their home countries after returning from Ballyvaughan. It is the kind of collection that takes decades to build and reflects the particular obsession of a family rather than a buying strategy. Margaret, who runs it now, knows every bottle and what is in it. Tell her what you like, and she will point you toward something you have not tried, and she will be right about it.

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What is harder to describe than the whiskey selection is the quality of the room itself. There are no screens, no background music fighting the conversation, nothing pulling at your attention except the bar and the people in it and whatever the evening decides to become. In Clare pubs, that is often quite a lot. Later in the night, a fiddle may appear from somewhere, and a session will start the way sessions do here, without announcement, without a set time, simply because the musicians are present and the night has reached the right point.

O’Loclainn’s opens evenings only, generally from 7 pm in summer and a little later off-season. It is small and fills up on weekends, so arriving on the earlier side gives you a better chance of a seat and more time with Margaret before the room gets loud. If she is making Irish coffees, order one.

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Doolin | Russells Seafood Bar

If you are staying in Doolin, the best place to grab something to eat for dinner is Russell’s Seafood Bar. Russell’s Seafood Bar sits inside the Fiddle + Bow Hotel on the main road and is a warm, unhurried restaurants where bright textured wood and muted lighting lulls you into a relaxed mood the second you enter. The menu draws almost entirely from within twenty-five kilometres of Doolin. That means the Atlantic coast is doing most of the work. Kelly’s oysters arrive on seaweed with mignonette and brown bread, the bread dense and slightly sweet in a way that works well against the salt of the oysters. The seafood platter is the thing to order if you want to understand what the kitchen is doing: mussels, lobster, whatever the day’s catch has produced, all of it cooked simply enough that the quality of the sourcing is the point. The bouillabaisse is worth knowing about. So are the wild Irish scallops if they are on that evening.

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The bar runs over fifty Irish whiskeys alongside a cocktail list and their own Russell’s IPA if you want something cold to start. The wine list is short and well chosen. The staff know the menu and will steer you right if you ask. Book ahead in summer. Russell’s fills up, particularly on weekends, and it is not the kind of dinner you want to miss because you assumed you could walk in.

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Doolin Late Trad Music

After dinner, if the day has not finished you, the evening in Doolin has one more thing to offer. The music tradition here is rooted in a broader Clare style of playing that emphasizes clarity and rhythm over ornamentation. The county produced a disproportionate number of influential musicians through the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, and Doolin’s pubs became a gathering point partly because of geography, close enough to Galway to attract visitors, far enough west to retain something authentic. Whether the sessions today carry the same character as those in the 1960s and 70s is a reasonable question. They are more aware of their own reputation now, more frequented by people who have come specifically to watch. But the music is real. The instruments are not decorative.

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Most sessions start after 8 pm. On any given evening in summer, you can walk into Fitzpatrick’s, McGann’s, McDermott’s, Russell’s Bar at Fiddle + Bow, the Meadow at Fiddle + Bow, or the Doolin Music House and find something happening. The village is small enough that none of these are more than a few minutes from each other, which means you can move between them over the course of a night without much effort and get a sense of how each room sits differently with the music.

Fitzpatrick’s and McGann’s are the older rooms, the ones with the most worn edges and the longest histories. McDermott’s has been a family pub since 1887. The Fiddle + Bow venues are newer, purpose-built around the music in a way the older pubs were not, and Russell’s Bar there tends to fill quickly on weekends. The Doolin Music House is the most dedicated listening space, smaller and quieter in a way that suggests the music is the point rather than the backdrop.

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A day out in Clare, exploring the Cliffs and the Burren, is no doubt a long day out, but it is worth the effort. The cliffs in the early morning before anyone else arrives, the cave underneath the Burren, five thousand years of human history sitting in a field off a quiet road, dinner with whatever came out of the Atlantic that day, and music in a pub that has been doing this since before you were born, the perfect ending to an unforgettable day out in Ireland.

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Cahernane House was the one hotel on our road trip through Ireland that I was the most excited about, and it didn’t disappoint. It has that history cache that only authentic old Irish country houses carry. Antique furniture that’s clearly been sat in, not just set out on display, an original Queen Anne Fireplace in the drawing room covered in fresh flowers and an old glass library where you can enjoy the lush Irish green landscape regardless of the weather.

Table Of Contents

1. History of Cahernane House
2. Rooms Options
   • *Prices noted are approximate, based on mid‑season rates for two persons, room only (taxes and fees additional).
3. Breakfast at Cahernane House Hotel
4. Free Bike Rentals & Easy Rides Around Killarney
5. Dining Worth Staying In For
   • Happy Travels, Adventurers

History of Cahernane House

The story of Cahernane house begins with the Herbert family, who have been rooted in County Kerry since the mid-1600s, when a branch of the family settled at Cahernane and another at Muckross. Henry Herbert had already lived a full life before settling in Killarney. He had made a fortune breeding sheep for wool in Australia, crossed the Rocky Mountains with an opera singer named Adelina Patti, and eventually won over Catherine Stewart, a Muckross resident, who was the reason he settled in Killarney.

The house that stands today almost didn’t exist at all. When Henry Herbert commissioned it in 1877, the original plans called for something three times the size. But what got built was a fraction of that vision. Catherine was not impressed with the existing house. The “sanitary arrangements” in particular, a row of outdoor closets tended by a man known locally as “Patsy the Bucket”, were apparently a dealbreaker. Henry had the whole thing demolished and started again. Lord Browne reportedly came personally to plead with him not to tear down the original Queen Anne structure, but Henry didn’t listen.

The new house was finished in 1877. If you look up at the pillars in the lobby, you’ll notice initials carved into each one, the first letters of Henry’s first four children’s names. By the time the house was complete, Ireland was shifting underneath families like the Herberts. The Land Act of 1881 effectively ended the economic model that kept large estates running, and Cahernane passed to Henry’s son Arthur in 1898, carrying significant debt. Arthur eventually leased the house as a hotel in the early 1900s, and it has operated as one, under a succession of owners, ever since.

Henry’s youngest daughter renovated the gardener’s cottage on a small strip of land the family had held onto. She died there in 1966, and with her went more than two centuries. After years remaining unoccupied, it was acquired in 2016 and renovated for €7.8 million to transform it into the hotel you find today. The old Coach House now has eight guest rooms. The Drawing Room, Library and Atrium have all been revamped, but somehow, the house still feels like an old family home.

Rooms Options

Cahernane has four distinct places to lay your head, and they feel genuinely different from each other rather than just variations on a theme.

The Manor House rooms are the heart of the original building, 12 rooms with original ceiling beams, cornicing, and period antiques, each decorated differently. The Herbert Suite is the one to book if you want garden and mountain views and a room that feels designed rather than assembled. Signature Double rooms start from around €314 per night*.

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The Garden Wing is the newer addition, built in the 1960s but fully refurbished since. Quieter and more spacious, styled to match the manor but slightly updated. Superior Rooms start from €341 per night, while the Junior Suite, the most generous option in this wing, comes in from €449 per night. We stayed in a Superior Room in the Garden Wing, and it delivered exactly what you want after a day on the road. Most rooms come with a freestanding claw-foot bath, which I used twice, and a rainfall shower stocked with Elemis products that made the whole bathroom feel like a proper spa.

The room looks out over the hotel gardens, and ours had a balcony where we sat with morning coffee watching mist settle across the countryside. At one point deer wandered into the grounds alongside cattle from the neighbouring farms, which sounds like something you’d read in a brochure but was just quietly, unexpectedly real.

We had every intention of heading into Killarney for dinner one evening; there’s no shortage of great options in town, but we ended up putting together a small picnic instead and eating on the balcony. We just didn’t want to leave.

The Coach House is the most recent addition, eight rooms in a standalone building beside the manor, each with bespoke wallpapers and Irish antique furniture. Some have claw-foot baths, others walk-in rain showers with handmade tiles. Good for anyone who wants something that feels slightly apart from the main house. For families, several Coach House rooms have their own entrance doors with connecting bedrooms, actual privacy rather than just a fold-out sofa situation.

And one important practical note: booking directly through cahernane.com gets you at least €10 off per night, a glass of prosecco on arrival, no payment needed upfront, and free cancellation up to 4 pm two days before you arrive. I’m usually someone who books on sites like hotels.ca for the points, but in Ireland, I always found booking direct got you way more perks!!!

*Prices noted are approximate, based on mid‑season rates for two persons, room only (taxes and fees additional).

Breakfast at Cahernane House Hotel

One of the most enduring memories from our trip across Ireland was the Irish Breakfast. And not just any breakfast, the kind that comes with a stay in a B&B or country house. These breakfasts are unhurried and almost always feature a huge buffet spread! Cahernane’s version of this might be the best I had on the whole trip!

Breakfast is served in Herbert’s Restaurant, with old wooden tables, soft morning light, gardens and distant hills visible through the windows. You start with a spread of freshly baked pastries, warm fruit scones, brown soda bread, berries, local yogurt and granola. Then the hot menu arrives, made to order and sourced locally where they can. Full Irish breakfast comes complete with thick rashers, black and white pudding, farm eggs, roasted tomatoes, though there’s smoked salmon with scrambled eggs, buttermilk pancakes, and poached eggs with sautéed spinach (if you feel inclined to have something a little lighter). We sat there long enough to watch the mist lift off the lawn, order a second pot of tea, and still not feel like we needed to move. That’s the whole point of it, really.

Free Bike Rentals & Easy Rides Around Killarney

One of the loveliest perks of staying at Cahernane House Hotel is their complimentary bicycle rentals, available to all guests. Just beyond the manicured lawn, a quiet path leads straight into Killarney National Park, opening the door to some of the most scenic and accessible cycling routes in Ireland. The bikes are well-maintained and comfortable, perfect for casual riders looking to explore at a leisurely pace.

You can cycle directly from the hotel to nearby gems like Ross Castle, Muckross Abbey, and Muckross House, all via dedicated park trails with minimal traffic and gentle inclines. We rode all the way to Ross Castle, were we got to enjoy a cup of tea and a scone at their Garden Café, which I cannot recommend more!!

Dining Worth Staying In For

If you’re interested in not leaving the house for dinner, but want something a little more elegant than a meal deal from M&S, you can enjoy a cocktail in the Drawing Room before heading to Herbert’s Restaurant, where locally sourced ingredients are turned into elegantly plated dishes. Kerry lamb, Dingle Bay crab, and fresh-baked Guinness bread are regulars on the menu. For a more relaxed vibe, the Cellar Bar, tucked beneath the house in original stone vaults, serves hearty, comforting fare in a cozy setting perfect for rainy evenings.

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If you’re weighing up where to stay in Killarney or planning a stop along the Ring of Kerry, I’d point you here without hesitation!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post An Honest Review of Cahernane House: Why You Need to Stay at this Historic Killarney Hotel first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Don't Spend too much time in Dublin
2. Be Prepared for Unpredictable Weather
3. Travel out of Season if you want fewer Crowds.
4. Don't Rush Through the Country
5. Book a Bed and Breakfast!
6. You Don't Need to Fly in and out of Dublin
7. The Best Driving Tips
8. Tips on Driving the Ring of Kerry
9. Alternative to the Ring of Kerry, The Ring of Beara
10. You Don't Need a Car to see Parts of Ireland
11. What to Eat in Ireland?
12. Enjoy the Craic!
13. Advice on Visiting the Cliffs of Moher
14. Alternative to the Cliffs of Moher, Slea Head Drive in Dingle
15. Gaelic is the Second Official Language
16. Discover the Stone Circles
17. Tips on Visiting the Giant's Causeway
18. Grab Gas Station Irish Breakfast Roll
19. How to Get a Bus to Stop
20. Blarney Castle is more than just the Stone.
21. What to Know Before Buying Irish Wool Products
22. Don't Forget Your VAT Refund
23. Buy Tickets in Advance
24. Have Tea over Coffee
25. Don't miss the Irish Beaches!
26. Grab Yourself a Spice Bag

Don’t Spend too much time in Dublin

Exploring Ireland to its fullest means getting out of the city! Too many travellers fly in and out of Dublin without leaving the city! One of the biggest draws of Ireland is its stunning natural landscapes, which include rugged coastlines, green rolling hills, dramatic cliffs, and picturesque countryside. Spending too much time in Dublin means you might miss out on iconic destinations like the Cliffs of Moher, Ring of Kerry, Connemara, and Giant’s Causeway, which showcase Ireland’s breathtaking natural beauty. Even just taking a one-day trip from the city doesn’t allow you to get immersed into the landscape like renting a car or simply taking the train to another city on the other side of the country does.

Be Prepared for Unpredictable Weather

Ireland’s weather is famously unpredictable. And even in one day, you might experience all four seasons! The climate is generally mild, thanks to the influence of the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf Stream, but frequent changes in weather mean that travellers must be prepared for various conditions.

Ireland’s temperatures are relatively moderate year-round, with average highs ranging from 15–20°C (59–68°F) in summer and 5–10°C (41–50°F) in winter. Rain showers are frequent, no matter the season, so it’s best to be prepared for wet weather even if the forecast looks clear. Also, you must remember that coastal areas, particularly along the Wild Atlantic Way, can be quite windy, making it feel colder than the actual temperature.

Packing with versatility in mind is essential. Here’s what you should include:

Waterproof jacket or raincoat: A high-quality, lightweight, waterproof jacket is a must, as rain showers can occur anytime. Look for something that is easy to pack and can handle sudden downpours.

Layers: Layering is key to staying comfortable in Ireland’s changeable weather. Bring items like long-sleeve shirts, sweaters, and t-shirts that you can easily add or remove based on the temperature.

Comfortable walking shoes: Waterproof shoes or boots are ideal for exploring Ireland’s towns, countryside, and coastal paths. Make sure they have good traction, especially for slippery surfaces. If you’re going to be walking on any of Ireland’s countryside hikes, you’ll almost doubtlessly run into sheep and with sheep come sheep pop. And you’ll be very thankful to have the boots with you and not a fancy pair of shoes!

Umbrella: A strong, small, compact umbrella can be handy to keep in your day bag for quick protection against the rain, but it is not a substitute for a good raincoat, as the strong winds often make even the best umbrellas useful.

Warm clothing: It can get chilly in the summer, especially in the evenings or along the coast. Bring a warm sweater, fleece, or light jacket for those cooler moments.

Hat and gloves: Even in the late spring, it was great to have a pair of gloves, a hat and a scar on hand to keep us warm on cold, windy days. And if you’re visiting in the winter, you’ll need these!

If you’re travelling in a car, we always make sure to leave a packing cube filled with a change of clothes, both warmer and cooler, so we are prepared for any change of weather or if the clothes we were wearing god soaked through with rain. Trust me, even carrying a change of socks makes a big difference on a cold rainy day!

Travel out of Season if you want fewer Crowds.

I envisioned an isolated Irish countryside and sights devoid of people where I could experience a transcendental moment. But what surprised me was, even in remote locations, how many tourists there were even in Spring, before the height of the summer months. If you’re looking to avoid the busiest tourist season in Ireland, the low season runs from November to the middle of March. However, there are some considerations to make when visiting outside of tourist season, aside from the obvious, such as the cold, damp weather. Irish winter days are short, so you must plan your itinerary accordingly. Additionally, some places might be closed out of season, so you’ll want to check in advance if any sights on your “must-see” list are closed for the season.

Don’t Rush Through the Country

I read so many blogs that made it seem like you could travel the whole country and see it all in seven days. But even if this were possible, it would mean spending mere minutes at each sight. When visiting Ireland, it’s best not to rush your itinerary and instead take your travels at a slower pace. The charm of Ireland lies in its scenic landscapes, cozy villages, and hidden gems, all of which are best appreciated when you take your time. Rushing from one tourist spot to the next can lead to missing out on spontaneous moments, such as stumbling upon a local pub with traditional music, engaging in friendly conversations with locals, or stopping to admire a breathtaking view along a coastal road. Travelling slowly also allows you to absorb the authentic atmosphere of small towns and villages, savour local food, and experience Ireland’s welcoming culture. The distances in Ireland might seem small, but the twisting, narrow roads make travelling even shorter distances a longer-than-expected drive.

We appreciate the days so much when we would stay in a town for more than one day at a time. It allowed us a break from the constant packing and unpacking and also gave us opportunities to explore a hidden cliff path or take an hour or two to just sit by a quiet lake. You won’t be able to see it all and trust me, you’ll be thankful you removed a few spots from your list to take it easy and allow yourself to appreciate a moment of rest and relaxation over being stuck in your car every minute of the day.

Book a Bed and Breakfast!

When booking the accommodation for our trip, one of the things I was most excited about was the bed and breakfast! The charm, architecture, characters you’ll meet and unique locations when booking a bed and breakfast (B&B) in Ireland are far superior to the comfort and familiarity of a normal hotel. Staying in a B&B allows you to experience true Irish hospitality. These establishments are often family-run, and hosts are known for being friendly, welcoming, and eager to share local tips and recommendations. You’re more likely to feel like a guest in someone’s home rather than just a tourist.

So many B&Bs in Ireland are located in historic properties, like old royal residences, royal hunting lodges, and even ancient palaces! Staying in these properties felt like moving into your very own castle! A few of the properties we stayed at even had their own private grounds with hikes and walking trails to explore where we didn’t see a single other tourist and felt like we had a slice of Ireland right to ourselves.

But my favourite part of the B&B is the second ‘B’, BREAKFAST! Often included in the price, you’ll get a hearty home-cooked breakfast. These are most often served buffet style but will always include a traditional Irish breakfast, which can include eggs, sausages, bacon, black pudding, and freshly baked soda bread, setting you up for a day of exploring. Soda bread is a traditional Irish bread made without yeast and with the addition of buttermilk. The buttermilk gives the bread a mild, slightly tangy flavour, and the wholemeal flour adds an earthy, nutty taste that pairs fantastically with Irish butter and jam.

You Don’t Need to Fly in and out of Dublin

When planning a trip to Ireland, one great tip to maximize your experience is to fly into one airport and out of another, such as arriving at Cork Airport and departing from Dublin Airport (or vice versa). This allows you to avoid a circular itinerary, meaning you don’t have to backtrack to your starting point. Returning a rental car to a different airport than where you picked it up might incur a small fee, but it can save you money on fuel and extra driving costs. Since Ireland has an extensive network of narrow, winding roads, particularly in rural areas, less time spent driving long distances means less fuel consumption and potentially a lower overall cost for your rental car.

The Best Driving Tips

Book Your Rental Car in Advance

But with so many visitors renting cars, this means that ensuring your rental is booked well in advance is even more important. Additionally, if you’re visiting outside of Europe, you might be surprised to find that most of the available rental cars in Ireland are manual and not automatic. And if you’ve never driven a manual car before, trust me, the Irish country roads are NOT the place to learn! Booking in advance ensures you’ll get the automatic car you want, and of course, you’ll find better prices in advance compared to the last minute.

Rent a SMALL Car

Although the idea of being in a nice, roomy car with lots of space to stretch out and carrying lots of storage might seem appealing for an Irish road trip, the roads in Ireland are some of the narrowest in the world. Often, you’ll be going down what looks like a single-lane road, only to find a local Irish driver barreling down towards you, and the only way to let them pass is to practically drive off into the ditch. And in these moments, or when passing cars on narrow roads along the cliff, you’ll be very thankful to have rented a little car. The smaller, the better. It also makes parking a breeze, and you’ll even save a bit of money on gas (or petrol as it’s called in Ireland).

You might consider renting two smaller cars rather than a large van if travelling with a larger group. Not only does this mean you can split off if different members want to get up to different activities throughout your trip, but it will definitely be less nerve-racking than driving a large van around the narrow, bendy roads.

You’ll Need Special Car Insurance

When we got our rental car, they asked us if we needed insurance, but as seasoned travellers, we are used to our credit cards covering most rental car insurance as it had in many other countries. But when we were urged to look at the fine print, we realized that, yes, indeed, our regular insurance did not cover Ireland! And honestly, after seeing the roads, I know why. The locals told us how many visitors lost their side mirrors to those surprise narrow turns! You’ll want the peace of mind that knowing if something happens, you’ll be covered. So double-check if your regular travel insurance has Ireland listed as driver’s insurance and what it covers. If you need extra coverage, your rental car agency should be able to help you find the best options.

Irish Toll Roads

Ireland has a few toll roads and highways around major cities. The main toll roads are found on motorways (indicated by an “M”) and include routes like M50 (Dublin Ring Road), M1 (Dublin to the Northern Ireland border), M7/M8 (Dublin to Limerick and Cork), and M4 (Dublin to Galway). There are also a few toll bridges and tunnels, such as the East Link Toll Bridge and the Dublin Port Tunnel.

The M50 Toll Road (e-Flow) in Dublin is the most famous and operates without physical toll booths. Instead, it uses an electronic toll system called e-Flow, where your car’s license plate is photographed, and you are billed afterward. If you’re in a rental car, most companies will automatically handle this toll for you and bill you after the fact, but you should check with the rental company to avoid extra charges. If not, you must pay the toll online by 8 pm the day after using the road. You can pay the fee online at eflow, but the easier way is to stop at a petrol station and find a Payzone station, where you can also pay the fee and don’t need to worry about doing it online later in the day. Toll charges range from about €1.90 to €3.00 per toll, depending on the road. The M50 toll costs about €3.10.

Is the Irish Toll Pass Worth Getting?

Our rental car agency allowed us to buy a Toll Pass for €5/day, enabling us to drive right through the toll pass gates without worrying about paying for each toll as we passed through or paying the e-tolls online. While the convenience of it is worth it if you’re driving a lot on the main highways, we found that most of our trip was in the rural areas off the main highway, so it would have been more economical to simply pay tolls as you go.

If you’re wondering if the toll pass will be worth it for you, you can check out this interactive map of all the tolls around Ireland to see how many you’ll be passing through. When we passed through the automatic payment gates, which didn’t require paying the toll at the booth, we saved a bit of time, but honestly, there was never a long line to pay, and the cars moved through very quickly, so it was not like this save you tons of time either.

The Roads REALLY are that Intense!

I had heard so much about roads in Ireland, but honestly, nothing prepared me for how narrow and curvy they were and how FAST the speed limits were set! We would drive along narrow countryside roads and see speed limits of 80-100km/h!! I couldn’t believe how the local drivers did it. Coming from Canada, we see speed limits as a guide to the average speed you should drive and nothing over, but we found in Ireland it was much smarter to drive at the speed you felt the safest driving as this not only protects yourself and those in your car but other drivers as well. If you have a speedy local driving behind you, kindly let them pass. They are used to tourists and will appreciate being able to pass you by to let you go at your own pace.

How to Prevent Car-Sickness

I get VERY sick in the car, especially on winding, narrow roads. So I can tell you I tested everything to find out what worked best to make me feel better and enjoy the streets as much as possible. If you’re prone to motion sickness, sitting in the front seat allows you to see the road ahead, reducing disorientation and nausea. Keep your eyes focused on a distant, stable object, like the horizon, to help your brain sync with the car’s motion. Ireland’s scenic routes offer plenty of places to stop and stretch. Frequent breaks for fresh air can help prevent motion sickness.

Ginger candies, ginger tea, or peppermint can help settle your stomach. These natural remedies are known for reducing nausea for those without severe sickness. Car-sick glasses, also known as anti-motion sickness glasses, are a relatively new and innovative solution designed to prevent motion sickness, including on Ireland’s winding roads. These glasses create an artificial horizon in your peripheral vision, which helps your brain align with the car’s motion, reducing the sensory conflict that causes nausea. I find that they work well for certain roads, but on the really winding, fast roads with sharp turns, the only thing that really works is medication. Over-the-counter medications like Dramamine, Gravol, Ireland, and Stugeron are some brands to look for. They make you drowsy, but I found that if I had a quick cat nap, I could be awake for the rest of the drive. Some people find motion sickness wristbands or ear patches work well, but I’ve never found they worked for me. But it’s always worth a try, as everyone reacts differently.

Irish Finger Flick

If you want to blend in like a local, when you encounter an oncoming vehicle on one of Ireland’s narrow roads, it’s customary for locals to acknowledge the other driver by lifting their index finger (usually of the right hand) just an inch or two from the steering wheel, often with a slight nod. This is a common roadside greeting that adds a nice touch to getting into the driving rhythm on these roads.

Tips on Driving the Ring of Kerry

Ok, now that you have your rental car and are ready to hit the road, one of the first places many travellers go is to the Ring of Kerry. The Ring of Kerry is one of Ireland’s most famous scenic drives. The circular route spans about 179 kilometres (111 miles) and hugs the coastline of the Iveragh Peninsula, offering panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean, sandy beaches, and dramatic cliffs. Key coastal highlights include the Skellig Islands, visible from certain viewpoints, which are famous for their rugged beauty and as a filming location for Star Wars. Along the route, you’ll find picturesque towns and villages like Killarney, Kenmare, Sneem, and Cahersiveen, as well as historic sights like Ross Castle. One of the highlights of the Ring of Kerry, Killarney National Park is home to ancient woodlands, serene lakes, and the stunning Torc Waterfall.

What Direction to Drive the Ring of Kerry?

The best tip for driving the Ring of Kerry is to start the ring counterclockwise (starting in Killarney and heading toward Kenmare). All the large tour buses agree to drive counterclockwise, so by driving opposite the buses, you won’t need to worry about being stuck behind them or having all the stops overrun with the tourists coming off those buses, most of which run on very similar schedules.

Even without the buses, the route is very popular, especially in summer, so it can be crowded. Leaving early in the morning or travelling during off-peak months can help you avoid crowds.

Alternative to the Ring of Kerry, The Ring of Beara

If the Ring of Kerry‘s touristy roads don’t appeal to you, an alternative scenic drive is the Ring of Beara. This stunning coastal route is less famous but equally, if not more, picturesque than the Ring of Kerry!

The Ring of Beara offers rugged and untouched beauty, with dramatic cliffs plunging into the Atlantic Ocean, quiet beaches, and panoramic views over Bantry Bay and the Kenmare River. The Ring of Beara is also much quieter and less commercialized, so if you prefer a more relaxed, off-the-beaten-path experience where you can enjoy the beauty of Ireland’s landscapes without the hustle and bustle of large crowds, the Ring of Beara is ideal.

The drive takes you through narrow mountain passes, such as the Healy Pass, which winds through stunning, rocky terrain and offers some of the most spectacular views in Ireland. The route is known for its lush valleys, rolling hills, and scenic lakes. And there is no shortage of quaint and charming towns and villages.

The Ring of Beara is approximately 137 kilometres (85 miles) long; it’s slightly shorter than the Ring of Kerry, so if you’re looking for a slightly shorter day, especially for that traveller in the winter months when there is less daylight, this might be the better option.

Ireland Drives on the Left Side of the Road.

Driving on the left side of the road in Ireland can be a bit of an adjustment for visitors from countries where driving on the right is the norm. The driver’s seat is on the car’s right-hand side, and roundabouts (traffic circles) move clockwise. It’s important to stay alert, especially when navigating narrow rural roads or making turns, as instinct might cause confusion. Many rental cars even have signs inside the vehicle reminding you to drive on the left, so you’ll always remember front and center!

You Don’t Need a Car to see Parts of Ireland

Ok, so after all this talk of driving, you probably are thinking, I guess I NEED to rent a car if I want to visit Ireland. And the truth is, while renting a car allows you to explore so many parts of the country that just aren’t accessible by any other route if visiting Ireland is one of your travel dreams and you can’t drive or are too scared to drive on the other side of the road, there are other options! Ireland’s train network, operated by Iarnród Éireann (Irish Rail), connects many key cities and towns, making it a convenient option for travellers. While not as extensive as other European countries, the rail system provides good access to major destinations, particularly along the East Coast and some parts of the South and West. Dublin is Ireland’s primary hub for train travel, with two major stations. From Dublin, you can reach many other cities and towns across the country, like Cork, Galway, Belfast, Kilkenny, Killarney, and Sligo.

While the train network doesn’t reach every part of Ireland, travelling between major cities and towns is convenient. To explore more remote locations, you can always take a bus tour from those major cities, such as a trip to the Cliffs of Mohr and Aran Island from Galway. I highly recommend taking the train to Galway and seeing that city and then making a day trip, over only staying in Dublin and making all your day trips from there. You’ll spend so much time on the bus, and by taking the train, you’ll still be able to explore some of Ireland’s great cities!

What to Eat in Ireland?

When I came back from Ireland, many people asked me about my trip and were SHOCKED when I reported that one of my trip’s best parts was the food. There has been a persistent stereotype that Irish food is all about potatoes and stews. However, the image of Irish food as bland, basic, and lacking in variety stems from times of poverty and food scarcity. Ireland was an agricultural society for much of its history, and large portions of the population were poor, particularly after the Great Famine. The diet of the average Irish person was very simple and revolved around staples like potatoes, oats, and root vegetables. While nutritious, these ingredients didn’t lend themselves to exciting or diverse culinary traditions.

But much of this has changed over time, not just in the big cities! Ireland is now celebrated for its high-quality, locally sourced ingredients, including some of the world’s best dairy, beef, and seafood. The emphasis on farm-to-table dining and fresh, seasonal produce has elevated Irish cuisine. Ireland’s restaurant scene has flourished, with many chefs focusing on modern Irish cuisine that draws from traditional ingredients but with creative and contemporary twists. Cities like Dublin, Cork, and Galway are home to Michelin-starred restaurants, and talented chefs are helping to redefine Irish food on the world stage. Our trip took us to so many coastal villages, and the seafood we had was OUT OF THIS WORLD! The crab bisque I had in Dingle was probably the best of my life.

Check out my blog post on the best foods to try on your next trip to Ireland!

Eating Gluten-Free in Ireland?

Ireland is also one of the most accessible cities to travel to if you have a gluten allergy. Ireland has one of the highest rates of coeliac disease in Europe. Coeliac disease is an autoimmune condition where gluten (found in wheat, barley, and rye) triggers severe digestive issues. Due to this higher prevalence, there is a strong demand for gluten-free options nationwide. As a result, many restaurants, cafes, and supermarkets have adapted to cater to people who need gluten-free diets, making gluten-free food widely available. On almost every menu, you would see an extensive list of allergens in each dish, and I was so impressed at how easy and accessible this made ordering food if you suffer from allergies. Even in the small towns, we saw them making lots of accommodations, so never hesitate to ask!

Enjoy the Craic!

Craic (pronounced “crack”) is a uniquely Irish term that refers to the spirit of gatherings filled with good times, fun, and lively conversation. Craic is more than just having fun—it’s about the social connection that happens when people come together, friends and strangers, to share stories, music, and laughter, especially in informal, welcoming environments like pubs. You might hear phrases that describe the level or quality of craic:

• “Great craic“: A fantastic time, lots of fun and laughter.
• “The craic was ninety“: A colloquial way of saying it was at its peak or exceptionally fun.
• “No craic“: A disappointing or dull time.
• “What’s the craic?“: A common greeting meaning “What’s going on?” or “What’s the news?”

In Ireland, craic often goes hand-in-hand with traditional Irish pub music sessions. The atmosphere created by live music, singing, and sometimes dancing is a big part of what makes the craic so enjoyable. Galway has named itself the so-called “Capital of Craic” because of its love for music and nightlife. I found the best craic in intimate pubs in the small towns where we stayed. When you check into your bed and breakfast, ask the owners where their favourite place to go for craic is. You’ll immediately find the best local spot for great music and meeting new friends.

Advice on Visiting the Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher is one of Ireland’s most iconic and breathtaking natural attractions, rising dramatically from the Atlantic Ocean, reaching heights of up to 214 meters (702 feet) and stretching for about 14 kilometres (9 miles) along Ireland’s western coast in County Clare. The sheer drop and rugged cliff faces make for some of Ireland’s most awe-inspiring coastal views, especially on a clear day.

Check the Weather

But, as many travellers who’ve been to Ireland before have encountered, the weather in Ireland is rarely clear. Many disappointed travellers have made the long trek to the Cliffs only to be disappointed when they are barely visible through the fog and the rough winds blow so forcefully you’ll barely be able to walk, let alone stroll long enjoying the scenery along the cliffs. Visiting on your own, compared to a tour group, lets you wait out the weather in your car before heading to the cliffs if necessary. Regardless of the weather, I always advise bringing a packed lunch to enjoy while waiting out the weather in your car or picnicking on the cliff’s edge to soak in that scenery. But remember, while the cliffs are dramatic and stunning, they are also very high and exposed to strong winds. Stay within the designated safe areas, and be cautious near the edge. Venturing too close to the cliff edge can be dangerous, as parts of the cliff can be unstable or slippery in wet conditions.

Parking at the Cliff of Moher

As one of Ireland’s top tourist attractions, the cliffs can get quite crowded, especially during peak tourist season (summer) or midday. Parking is a headache during high season. Although a large car park is available at the Cliffs of Moher visitor center, and all-day parking is included in the price of the visitor center ticket, even this paid lot can get full very quickly. If you book an off-peak ticket online, the prices cost €8 per adult (children are free) or €4 per adult.

You can park at Guerin’s Path, about 1km from the visitor center, for €5 per person to find alternative parking. You can also park near Hag’s Head, the southernmost point of the cliffs, where there’s a small car park with a €2 honesty box, and it’s just a 10-minute walk to the cliffs. If you’re willing to walk a bit more, you can also park in the nearby villages of Liscannor or Doolin.

Other Tips for Visiting the Cliffs of Moher

While the visitor center and main viewing platforms offer excellent views, the real magic of the cliffs can often be found further along the coastal paths. Consider walking along the Cliffs of Moher Coastal Walk, which stretches from Doolin to Liscannor. This route provides spectacular views without the crowds. If you love birdwatching, bring binoculars, as the cliffs are home to large colonies of puffins, guillemots, and other seabirds during the nesting season (April to July).

One of the most beautiful times to visit the Cliffs of Moher is sunset, when the light softens, and the cliffs glow with warm golden hues. The area is also much less crowded in the evening, with many of the tour buses having already gotten back on the roads, heading back to Dublin and Galway, offering a more peaceful and personal experience.

Alternative to the Cliffs of Moher, Slea Head Drive in Dingle

If the touristy nature of the Cliffs of Moher isn’t your thing and you’re looking for an excellent alternative, you need to make a point to visit Dingle and take the stunning Slea Head Drive. Dingle was, without a doubt, my favourite place we visited in Ireland. It is well worth at least two days exploring the Dingle Peninsula and its amazing rugged coastal scenery, complete with dramatic cliffs. The Slea Head Drive is a scenic loop that takes you along the westernmost edge of the Dingle Peninsula, offering breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean, the Blasket Islands, and the Wild Atlantic Way. The cliffs along this drive are as impressive as any in Ireland, and you’ll encounter numerous scenic viewpoints, including stops at places like Coumeenoole Beach and Dunquin Pier. The drive is not just about the cliffs but also about immersing yourself in the beauty of mountainous landscapes, green fields, and coastal vistas. Dunmore Head is the westernmost point of mainland Ireland. The cliffs here are rugged, and the views over the Blasket Islands and the vast Atlantic Ocean are spectacular. The area is perfect for hiking or a quiet stroll, allowing you to take in the dramatic coastal scenery without the large tourist crowds of the Cliffs of Moher.

Gaelic is the Second Official Language

Gaelic (Irish) is the second official language of Ireland. Gaelic holds a significant place in the country’s cultural identity and heritage and is still spoken as a first language in some rural areas, particularly in regions known as the Gaeltacht, which includes parts of counties like Donegal, Galway, Kerry, and Mayo. Road signs often prioritize the Irish language, so don’t be surprised if you repeatedly see the word “Go Mal” as you make sharp turns, which means “Go Slow.”

Discover the Stone Circles

Stone circles in Ireland are ancient megalithic monuments, typically consisting of large stones arranged in a circular or oval pattern. Though some may be older, these fascinating structures date back to the Bronze Age (circa 2500–500 BCE). While their exact purpose remains somewhat mysterious, it is widely believed that they were used for ceremonial, religious, or astronomical purposes. Many of these stone circles are aligned with significant solar events, such as the summer solstice or equinoxes, suggesting that ancient people used them to track celestial movements.

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One of the easiest Stone Circles to visit is the Kenmare Stone Circle in County Kerry, near the famous Ring of Kerry Drive. This smaller stone circle, often called the Shrubberies, offers a peaceful, easily accessible site for visitors. A more off-the-beaten-path stone circle located in one of the most incredible landscapes is the Cashelkeelty stone circle. The walk to the stone circle is not too long from the parking lot, but this peaceful walk through the forest allows you to connect more deeply with the landscape, giving you the best chance to have a special moment when visiting the stones.

Tips on Visiting the Giant’s Causeway

If you’re planning to visit the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, one important tip to remember is that you don’t need to go through the Visitor Centre to enjoy the incredible natural wonder. The Visitor Centre, while modern and informative, functions largely as a gift shop and exhibit space and charges an entry fee. However, access to the actual Giant’s Causeway site and the surrounding UNESCO World Heritage Site is free, so you can avoid the fee by bypassing the Centre altogether.

The main walking path to the Giant’s Causeway is beside the Visitor Centre. Instead of entering the Centre, you can simply take the path around it and follow the signs that lead directly to the famous basalt columns. Another free and scenic route is walking down the causeway via the beach. Not only does this offer stunning coastline views, but you’ll also avoid crowds often congregating near the Visitor Centre.

Grab Gas Station Irish Breakfast Roll

One of the biggest surprises we had was exploring the gas stations whenever we stopped to fill the tank. Gas stations, or petrol stations as they’re called here, are more than just places to refuel your car—they can also be a great place to grab a quick, affordable, and tasty meal. They often have freshly prepared meals, including breakfast rolls, hot sandwiches, soups, and pastries. Irish gas stations take pride in providing hearty food to cater to locals and travellers, and the food quality is often much higher than expected.

My favourite on-the-road breakfast became an Irish breakfast roll from the gas station. The breakfast roll is packed with sausages, rashers (bacon), eggs, black and white pudding, and sometimes hash browns—all served inside a soft roll. It’s a filling, delicious, and affordable option that can set you up for a full day of exploring. And don’t forget to grab a few packs of brown sauce, a classic condiment in Ireland. And all the bathrooms I found along the way in these gas stations were super clean, which made every stop an absolute pleasure.

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How to Get a Bus to Stop

Although this is more common in Europe, coming from North America, where buses will automatically stop at every bus stop, I had to learn the hard way that, in many cases, you do need to put your hand out to signal that you want to board a bus in Ireland, particularly in urban areas like Dublin or smaller towns where buses won’t stop unless a passenger signals them. Otherwise, the bus may pass by, assuming no one is getting on. When you’re on the bus and want to get off at the next stop, most buses have a “stop” button you can press, which signals to the driver that you’d like to get off at the next available stop. Also, be aware that many buses will not accept cash or give change, so buy your tickets from the station to avoid getting booted off the bus!

Blarney Castle is more than just the Stone.

Blarney Castle, located near Cork in southern Ireland, is probably one of the most famous sights in Ireland. This famous medieval stronghold dates back to the 15th century and is best known for the Blarney Stone, which is said to give those who kiss it the “gift of eloquence” or the ability to speak persuasively. Visitors must climb a steep, narrow staircase to reach it and lean backward over a gap (with assistance) to kiss the stone.

But they don’t tell you that the wait time to kiss the Blarney Stone is often the longest part of the visit, especially during peak tourist season (summer months). Depending on the time of year and day, the wait can be anywhere from 30 minutes to 2+ hours. The queue forms at the tower’s base and moves up a narrow spiral staircase. We got in line early in the morning, and our wait was over an hour. And the winding staircase up to the stone is boring, without much to see or entertain you. So bring a book or podcast, or spend the time catching up on your Instagram posts!

But honestly, if you come to Blarney Castle with limited time, consider not waiting in line and giving it a miss. I know, I know, “blasphemy!” you might say. But I watched so many visitors, mainly on time-sensitive bus tours, who were waiting in line, kissing the stone, and had to get right back on the bus. And they missed out on the best parts of visiting the castle. The castle is set amid beautiful gardens and offers visitors a glimpse into Ireland’s rich history and folklore. The land is believed to have been a sacred site for the Druids long before the medieval structure was erected. The Druids, the learned class of ancient Celtic societies, were known for their spiritual practices, closely tied to nature, the seasons, and sacred places. Several areas around Blarney Castle reflect these ancient connections, including the Rock Close (Druid’s Circle), Wishing Steps, and the Witch’s Kitchen. Missing out on exploring these places allows you to experience the spiritual energy and mystery of Ireland’s ancient past.

What to Know Before Buying Irish Wool Products

Irish wool is famous for its exceptional quality, warmth, and durability, largely due to the rugged climate in which the sheep are raised. Wool from breeds like the Irish Galway and Donegal sheep is known for its thickness and resilience, making it ideal for crafting traditional garments such as Aran sweaters. These sweaters are functional and steeped in Irish cultural history, featuring unique patterns that represent Irish heritage.

Purchasing wool from trusted vendors or shops specializing in Irish wool is important, as some souvenir shop sweaters might be manufactured elsewhere. Look for labels that say “Made in Ireland” or “100% Irish Wool.” Brands like Avoca, Blarney Woollen Mills, and Aran Sweater Market are popular and reputable for purchasing Irish wool products. And consider purchasing from smaller, local businesses or artisans who craft their wool products by hand.

Authentic, handcrafted Irish wool products, especially those made by local artisans, will cost more than mass-produced items. Aran sweaters, for instance, can range from €80 to €300 depending on where and how they’re made. There are two types of Irish wool. The first is Merino Wool, which is softer and less itchy than traditional wool and Aran Wool, which is thicker than traditional Irish wool, made into iconic cable-knit patterns which tend to be warmer and more durable but may feel coarser than other wools.

Don’t Forget Your VAT Refund

When buying Irish wool products or other expensive goods in Ireland, non-EU residents can often claim a tax refund (VAT refund). Ireland’s VAT rate on goods, including wool products, is 23%, so it’s no small fee that really adds up along the way. Look for stores displaying signs like “Tax-Free Shopping” or “VAT Refund“. These stores are registered to participate in the tax-free shopping refund. Ask the shop if they offer VAT refund forms when purchasing products. Some stores automatically provide these forms, while others may require you to request them. Usually, there is a minimum purchase amount to qualify for VAT refunds (e.g., €30), so check with the retailer. And be sure to keep all your receipts. There are different refund providers, and often, you can’t combine these forms, so you might have to keep track of which purchases go with which provider.

Before leaving Ireland or the EU, you must get your VAT refund form stamped at customs at the airport or point of departure. Present your receipts, purchased goods, passport, and completed VAT refund form at the VAT refund desk or self-service kiosks (usually found in major international airports). It might seem like a hassle if you aren’t spending too much money, but if you’re planning on bringing home lots of expensive wool products, you might save yourself money by getting the refund.

Buy Tickets in Advance

As mentioned before, Ireland, especially in high season, can be very busy, and buying tickets in advance for popular attractions is highly recommended. Some sites, such as Newgrange or the Book of Kells exhibit at Trinity College, have limited daily admissions. Purchasing tickets in advance ensures your entry and avoids disappointment, especially for attractions that sell out quickly. We saw many people getting turned away at the Book of Kells, and at Blarney Castle, the line to buy tickets was extremely long. Pre-booking tickets allows you to skip long lines and enjoy the site more than wait. Many attractions offer discounts or special rates for online bookings, so buying tickets in advance can save you money. Additionally, package deals for multiple attractions are often available online, providing more value for your trip.

Have Tea over Coffee

I’m a coffee lover, and I start every morning with my trusty warm brew. And while I’m definitely not a coffee snob or aficionado, I did find the coffee in Ireland wasn’t the greatest. I had a few good lattes in cafes, but for the most part, in the B&Bs or even some restaurants, the coffee was never very good. But rather than complain, I opted to start drinking tea, as this is what Ireland is known for, after all!

Typically, Irish tea blends are black teas, often using a mix of Assam and Ceylon teas, giving it a robust, malty taste perfect for having with milk and sugar. Brands like Barry’s Tea and LyBarry’s are household names, with many Irish households brewing tea multiple times a day, whether for breakfast, a midday break, or just to keep warm on a cold day! I always felt so Irish drinking tea on a cold morning, looking out on the foggy green landscape stretching out in front of me!

Don’t miss the Irish Beaches!

You might be thinking that the last thing I expected to be associated with Ireland was beaches, but honestly, the beaches in Ireland are one of its greatest hidden gems! Though Ireland is known for its green countryside, its beaches are equally captivating with their wild, unspoiled beauty. From the long stretches of sand at Inch Beach in County Kerry to the sandy dune of Brittas Bay, Irish beaches offer diverse scenery for beachgoers and adventurers alike. Even if it’s too cold to swim, Irish beaches offer views of the dramatic coastlines covered in golden sands and breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean.

Despite the cooler climate, Irish beaches are popular for activities like surfing, especially along the Wild Atlantic Way, with spots like Bundoran and Lahinch drawing surfers worldwide. Many beaches, such as Ballycastle Beach in Northern Ireland and Curracloe Beach in County Wexford, have even gained recognition for their appearances in films like Game of Thrones and Saving Private Ryan.

Grab Yourself a Spice Bag

The Irish spice bag is a beloved, relatively modern takeaway dish that has become an iconic part of Irish fast food culture. Originating in Dublin, this fusion dish combines elements of Chinese cuisine with a distinctly Irish twist. A typical spice bag consists of crispy shredded chicken (or sometimes pork), chips (fries), fried onions, and peppers, all tossed in a spicy, salty seasoning mix. The seasoning usually includes a combination of chilli powder, five-spice, garlic salt, and paprika, giving it a bold and flavorful kick. While it’s most commonly seen at Chinese takeaways across Ireland, the spice bag has developed a cult following, especially for late-night eats or casual dining. The spice bag’s appeal lies in its crunchy texture, spicy flavour, and satisfying ingredients, making it a go-to option for those seeking a quick, tasty, and filling meal. Many places offer variations, with some adding extras like curry sauce or chilli flakes, further solidifying its status as a fast food favourite in Ireland. Even some of the more upscale restaurants have started serving an upscale version of this previously budget dish, which really shows how popular the food has gotten, making it a must-eat on your next trip!

Preparing for your trip to Ireland with these essential tips will help you make the most of this beautiful country. From navigating the unpredictable weather to embracing the local customs, Ireland has much to offer beyond the obvious tourist attractions. Whether you’re soaking in the breathtaking scenery, enjoying a pint in a cozy pub, or exploring the rich history and culture, taking the time to slow down and appreciate the charm of everyday Irish life will make your experience unforgettable. So pack your layers, bring an open mind, and prepare for an adventure filled with warmth, beauty, and craic!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

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