Map of Ærø

When to Visit

Before you head on your adventure, one word of warning. Ærø is primarily a summer destination. From September to May, most shops, restaurants and activities aren’t open or on a very limited schedule. I visited just at the beginning of May, during the very start of the tourist season, and even then, the island was very quiet, and the opening hours of the shops were pretty limited, requiring a fair bit of planning. That being said, there was something about visiting a seemingly uninhabited land covered in antiquated Danish architecture that felt like we were explorers, discovering something hidden from the ages and history books.

But for the best experience and ability to visit everything in this post, you might want to visit the island in the full bloom of summer when it’s full of people with a lively atmosphere and a plentiful amount of activities to experience.

Prices in Ærø

Ærø is a fairly expensive island to visit, and I frequently find many tourists complaining about the prices of food and accommodation. Denmark is a slightly more expensive European city to visit, and then when you add these small islands with little access to the mainland, you end up with high prices on things like food, drink and hotels. Knowing this in advance really helps you set up good expectations, and although the lodging and food might cost a bit more, so many of the activities on the island, like biking and hiking, won’t cost you a thing!

Access by Ferry

Svendborg is your best place to start to make your way onto the island. It’s the largest town, with a Ferry over to the island and a train station that runs more frequently than the other ferry towns close to Ærø. The walk from the train station to the Ferry platform is short, and there is an adorably quaint Bed and Breakfast beside it, which offers great food and drink options for you to enjoy if you find yourself waiting a few hours for the ferry like we did. The ferry has some food options, too, if you find yourself rushing to meet the ship without eating.

You can buy your tickets aboard the boat, and be sure to buy a return ticket as it’s cheaper to do it that way rather than pay each way separately. The return ticket costs $35 US during the regular season, but if you head out there during the off-season, it only costs $13. Ferries run about every hour on the weekdays and slightly less often on weekends and holidays. The trip from Svendborg to Ærø takes about 75 minutes. 

Svendborg to Ærøskøbing

If your trip takes you there in May, be prepared for an amazing site as you cross the sea. As you sail towards Ærø, gold fields appear in the distance. The blossoming flowers in the fields and farmlands all over the hills and valleys produce a golden colour. Against the bright blue seas and the white flurry clouds, it’s a colour spectrum unlike anything I’d ever seen. When you arrive in Ærø from Svendborg, you’ll dock in the town of Ærøskøbing. Ærøskøbing is one of the larger villages on the island, and from here, you can make your way to your accommodations anywhere on the island.

History

Settlements on Ærø have been dated back to as early as 8000 BC. Neolithic burial grounds can still be found on the island, a small memento of the island’s incredible Viking past. In the 17th century, the island was mainly run by a Duke, a member of the Danish royal family. From 1622 to 1633, one of their most prolific ruler, Duke Christian, controlled the island.

When Duke Christian died, the islanders found a banner in his manor house composed of nine pieces of cloth in three different colours, each representing a different part of what made Ærø so special. Red was the colour of life, green was the deep colour of the Baltic sea, and golden yellow was for the beautiful flowers covering the spring island, signifying great crops and lush produce. This remains the flag of Ærø to this day. After the Duke’s death, the island was divided between the Duke’s four brothers into the four main villages on the island we still can visit today.

Villages of Ærø

The island is mainly populated by small farms across different villages. There are three main towns around the island where you’ll find the most things to do and places to stay. The largest village is Marstal, with a whopping 2,340 permanent inhabitants. After that, the biggest is Ærøskøbing with 978 and Søby with 598! This alone was reason enough for me to want to travel there. These tiny hamlets have such an amazingly tight-knit atmosphere, as everyone needs to work so close together for their little island to prosper. 

Ærøskøbing

Ærøskøbing is my favourite of them all. Many people call this place a fairy tale town. My favourite travel author Rick Steve dubbed it “a ship’s town in a bottle” as its architecture and charm have been perfectly preserved for years. Marstal is the largest city on the island and has the strongest connections with its maritime history, and you’ll find this theme strong throughout the village. Søby is located at the northernmost point on the island and is the smallest village. It is where all the old Viking boats are still being restored and where you’ll find the iconic Ærø lighthouse.

Where to Stay

Airbnb

There are some incredible Airbnb options in Ærø. Multiple locations allow you to sleep in converted granaries, bakeries, and farmhouses, which have now become comfortable accommodations. One of the most impressive is a seventeenth-century manor where King Frederik V stayed in 1750. Staying here is like experiencing a small part of Ærø’s history. The apartments have been restored but still contain a contemporary Danish modern art and antique collection. The rooms cost about $180/night, and the weekdays are often cheaper than the weekends.

Bed and Breakfasts

Stay in a converted sea captain’s manor, built in 1784, where you’ll be cared for by the owner Susanna who serves afternoon tea to all her guests in her charming Danish garden. Vestergade 44 bed and breakfast can be found up the street from the ferry station in Ærøskobing, so it’s easily accessible even on foot. There are a variety of rooms, each decorated in its own style with collections of art and antiques to make the room feel authentic and lived in. The rooms cost $189 US/night for a double room.

Guesthouses

The difference between a guest house and a bed-and-breakfast is that inside the guest house, you have ample access to the kitchen, living rooms and other parts of the house. It’s more like staying in a room in a large house, so you feel a part of a lively community of people.

There are various guesthouses to choose from, so just look at what unique features they have and pick your favourite. Bakkehuset, located on the island’s northeast side, just minutes away from the sea, is a post-card perfect place to stay. You have access to their lush gardens, where you can even sample different fruits from their trees. The rooms are surprisingly modern, with an unmistakable Danish touch. $212 US/night (for more than one night).

How to Get Around

By Car

If you’re renting a car while visiting Ærø, you’ll find exploring the island incredibly easy. There is ample parking in town, and even if you want to stop your car along the roads, it’s easy enough to just pull over and enjoy the view. Most guesthouses and Airbnbs have parking options if you want to leave the car alone and spend the rest of your time on Ærø by foot or bike.

by Bus

If you arrived on the island without a car, you might wonder how you could get around. The island offers a free tourist bus which runs the length of the island from Søby to Marstal via Ærøskøbing. They depart about once an hour in each direction. For the complete timetable, you can check it out here. After 9 am, they accept bikes on the bus, so if you find yourself out of energy, this is always an option to help you get back to your lodging.

Our guesthouse host picked us up from the ferry station when we arrived and even offered to drive us to and from different destinations on the island, so never be nervous to ask your hosts for help. We found everyone on the island incredibly helpful and kind, and they were keen to show off their favourite parts of Ærø.

by Bike

Biking across the island was our main method of transportation. After settling down in your hotel or at your guesthouse, go about finding a bike. Every guesthouse or hotel will rent you a bike (usually for free) that you can ride all over the island. No bike locks are needed, as Ærø is the safest place in the world! Just park your bike anywhere that is safe from traffic and head on your way.

Advice on Biking around the Island

For the most part, the island is fairly easy to bike around. But when the wind picks up, and you’re biking up hills, it can require a little more effort, but it’s well worth it. Taking a tour of the island by bike, you’ll see, in a much more intimate way. See the texture of the landscape, the smell of the wind and all the little details that pop out at you only by whizzing around on a two-wheel joy-ride. Biking across the countryside, you’ll see wild lilacs, roses, buck-thorn and more of the incredible wild and farmed flower fields. You’ll pass thatched houses and old Danish churches. Bike maps can be found at the tourist office or just from your host. We stuck our paper map in our bike basket and used that as our GPS the entire time.

Things to Do on Aero

I wanted to break up the activities into various villages and areas of the island. This is a perfect way to break up your days. Take a bike ride to one village and explore what you find there. Don’t be scared to get lost. We often got off the main road or pathway and found various surprising treasures. All the different places to see are detailed on the map.

Things to Do in Ærøskøbing

Walking around the old town

Truly my favourite thing to do while in the old fairy-tale village of Ærøskøbing was to explore the colourful, antiquated houses and cobblestone lanes. Some of these houses date back to the 1600s. And honestly haven’t been touched, except for a bit of new paint, ever since. The main road is great for spotting all these beautiful houses. But be sure to explore the side streets and alleys that veer off to find those hidden corners of the village which can unlock all sorts of secrets.

Even after hundreds of years, the owners’ care in maintaining their homes means they look unchanged but in great condition. Like a ship in a bottle, protected from harm or time. Keep your eyes peeled for the various red-painted buildings. These houses were once painted using real ox blood, giving them a slightly macabre feeling as you pass by, despite the cheery colour.

The Mirror Houses

Although it’s rumoured that no one locks their doors in this town, if you look closely, you’ll see many houses have strange mirrors outside their front windows. These mirrors are used to see the street from inside the house. But they weren’t used for security; they were for town gossip! In a town as small as this, gossip runs ripe, and it’s amazing to see these devices they created to make it easier to spy on their neighbours, something you wouldn’t see anywhere else in the world. We made it game spotting all the different mirrors as we passed by each house along the lane.

Torvet Square

The main town square is located outside of the Ærøskobing church. Although not labelled on any maps, you’ll see the words “Visdommens Kiled” marked where you’ll find the square. This, translated from Danish, means “the Source of Wisdom.” In the middle ages, meetings in the town square were the only way such a small village would learn about the day’s news or what was happening on the mainland. Today, in the busier summer months, marketplaces often sell goods and foods from across the island. And still, even today, villagers meet here to discuss the local news and gossip about the latest town tittle-tattle.

In the centre of the square are two old hand pumps. For years many of the houses in the village had to use to get their water from these two hand pumps alone. And while this seems like something which would have been used hundreds of years ago, they were still being used by villagers as recently as 1951 when the last house finally got running water installed!

Doorways of Ærø

One of the things I loved to study most when exploring Ærøskobing was looking at all the different doorway designs. The town feels so alive and vibrant. Each quirky-looking door makes the house feel like they have its own personality and character. Despite this small, quiet village, it feels lively and exciting just with a little paint and decoration.

Ærøskøbing Church

Besides the town square, you’ll find Ærøskøbing Church. You can spot it from afar by its red terracotta-coloured roof standing tall above the houses, capped by its green copper onion dome. This church dates back to 1756, but the land it was built on has the remains of church foundations dating back to the 13th century. The baptismal font found inside is a remnant of that original church and truly a treasure of the island. One of the most interesting parts of the church is the small entrance, with its bright blue painted doors and geometric roof line in the shape of a cross. This part of the church feels so modern in its simplicity despite being designed so many years ago.

Ærøskøbing Bibliotek

Written across the top of the Ærøskøbing library are the words’ with law, you shall build’ written in Danish. This library was established in 1863 and has been a central part of the village. You’ll find old wooden shelves lined with ancient and modern books if you step inside. A small coffee vending machine keeps people awake against the odds as the peaceful silence which fills the room is near impossible not to fall asleep to. If you’re interested in peeking into the archives, you can find a wealth of information about the island’s history dating back hundreds of years. These books are beautifully well-kept, so if you’re a bibliophile, this is the place for you!

Hammerichs Hus

If you’re looking for a quirky museum to visit on a rainy day, check out the Hammerichs Hus. The Hammerichs Hus is a trio of half-timbered houses from the 17th and 18th centuries. Named after the sculptor Gunnar Hammerich, the museum houses a collection of rarities he collected over his life in Ærø. Upstairs in the house, the walls are lined with over 3000 blue and white porcelain tiles. You’ll love this museum if you love antiques and looking at people’s cabinets of curiosity.

Flaske Peters Samling

Peter Jacobsen was an incredible resident of Ærø who spent his life making ‘ships-in-bottle.’ This museum is dedicated to his life’s work and contains over 750 tiny reproductions. He made over 1,700, but the museum features many different shapes and designs he created. Jacobsen used to brag that he drank every single bottle he made into a ship, although we should mention they are all made from milk bottles. Considering that Ærø is a maritime city, this museum felt wonderfully apt and one of those little oddities you’ll only find in a small town.

Det Gamle Værft

Sitting in the main harbour of Ærøskøbing is the mini ship-repair shop. There is always a vessel sitting out in the yard in different stages of repair. It’s entertaining and interesting to watch them fix up these old boats to head back out on the waters. Just like new. During certain times of the year, they offer tours and even let you learn how to work a blacksmith’s forge used to repair the ships.

Follow the Nightwatch in Aeroskobing

During the busy summer months, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, you can get a nighttime guided tour of the old city of Ærøskøbing. Your guide will be dressed in the old-fashioned garb of a nightwatchman and will lead you around the city as the sun begins to set, giving the entire place a different atmosphere and appearance. All the guides are great storytellers, and you’ll learn unique tales and legends from the town’s history told by the locals themselves.

Molestien Lane

This thin gravel path across from the beach is a lovely way to peek at some of the real, lived-in houses in Ærø. The path backs out on the back gardens of various residents on the island. Some used to be occupied by boat captains who made Ærø their home. The locals nicknamed this pathway “Virgin’s Lane” as younglings used to court along this path in clear view of their parents, who sat in their gardens watching over them. As you walk along the path, you’ll see dozens of old boats sitting on the grass, flowers and moss growing over their bright and colourful hulls.

Bio Andelen

Bio Andelen, or Andelen Cinema, is the town’s only movie theatre and Denmark’s smallest cinema. Various international films are shown here in their original language, so you’ll almost always find something to watch if you speak English. It’s a great way to spend an evening with the locals!

Ærø Bowlingcenter

If the weather is a little less than perfect, the bowling alley is a great option if you want something to do in the evening or even during the day. There might only be four lanes, but this quaint little alley with its charming cafe is a lovely place to while away the time.

Aero Whisky

You’ll find a long grey building along the Old Merchant’s Court with teal window frames and a small sign with the letters’ DKG’. This is Ærø’s Whisky distillery in Danish called ‘Den Gamle Købmandsgaard.’ The large shop does more than sell whiskey; it is like a little market with delicious baked goods, local produce and whiskey. Their original purpose for establishing the DGK was to help create more jobs in Ærø outside of just the tourism business and to highlight the incredible farmers, cooks and craftsmen in Ærø.

The whiskey distillery is the smallest in Demark and is housed in an old washhouse. You can tour the distillery during high season and sample the whisky they make year-round. It’s interesting to learn that the wort they used in the distilling process is actually provided from the Rise Bryggeri (brewery) just a few villages over. It’s lovely to see how each of these businesses is helping each other to create a better product instead of competing against each other. That is teamwork at its finest.

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Blåbær Gårdbutik

Blåbær Gårdbutik is an adorable shop selling a variety of goods, all of which were produced in Ærø by items farmed on the island. From goat’s milk soaps, handicrafts, beeswax candles and sheep wool clothing, everything you’ll find here is made by the locals. The farm was first built in 1850 and has been raising different animals ever since. They are committed to sustainability, quality and animal welfare and welcome visitors to see their farm in the works and visit the shop. During the summer, they even have a small cafe where you can sit on picnic benches and enjoy the sounds of the farm around you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Things to Do in Marstal

While Ærøskøbing might feel like a fairy-tale village, Marstal feels like a maritime museum. For centuries Marstal vessels have sailed the seven seas, and even today, its dock is full of commercial and personal boats. Marstal is the economic centre of Ærø and where you can find most day-to-day shops, like the largest supermarket on the island. Ærøskøbing feels like it stopped in the middle ages, while Marstal stands at the forefront of innovations and solar power. The island is on its way to being completely self-sufficient, with Northern Europe’s largest solar power complexes and dozens of windmills powering the island.

Maritime Museum

The Maritime Museum in Marstal is the most popular attraction drawing people into the city. The museum details the maritime history of Denmark since the 1600s, and its 37 exhibits span over 5 buildings in Marstal! There are 200 model ships, 130 ships in a bottle, portraits of famous sailors and lots and lots of gear and equipment from original ships. If you’re a fan of maritime history, this doesn’t get much better!

Church of Marstal

The Marstal Church dates back to 1738. The church’s exterior is a simple white brick and red-roofed design with a copper steeple. Inside, things are a little bit different. You’ll notice right away when stepping inside the strong colours! The blue benches are a symbol of the sea and eternity. At the front of the nave is the bright red altar, a lovely triptych painted by the maritime and Greenland painter Carl Rasmussen in 1881. As is fitting for an island church, it depicts Christ calming the storm on the Lake of Genezareth. From the ceiling hang dozens of miniature ships intermingled amongst the chandeliers.

Things to do in Søby

Søby is the smallest of the main villages in Ærø. They call it the gateway to Europe as it is the northernmost point on the island and, therefore, the closest to the mainland of Europe. Today, you’ll find most of Ærø’s fishing fleet. Tourists looking to hire a boat to go out on the water to see if they can get the catch of the day often gather here early in the morning before the sun has even risen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Skjoldnæs Fyr

At the island’s tip, bikers who make it out here will be rewarded by a beautiful site; the ‘Skjoldnæs’ Lighthouse. It was built in 1881 and still stands today as a landmark of the island. You can still climb to the top, with the most scenic views of the island and across the Baltic Sea. If you feel like the bike ride up here might be too much, you can always take the free bus, which runs all the way to Søby, where you can walk the rest of the way to the lighthouse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sæberiet

Sæberiet is a small shop which sells soaps and spiced salts made from different flowers and herbs all grown on the island. During the summer, they open their doors to guests who can come in and see the soap workshop in action. Their unique scents, like elderflower, scotch rose, marigold and lemon balm, make for a wonderful souvenir of the island.

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Herremark

This charming little white cottage sells a blend of hand-picked vintage goods, often themed to the season, locally made products and handicrafts. It is a bright and cheery store, and the people who run it are so happy to welcome you inside to browse all their wonderful goods. I love scouring for vintage finds when travelling; they are always so different than what we can find back home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Økogård Vitsø

This little farm is run by Johannes Hets, who has three big passions: yoga, farming and bees! They offer yoga classes with an unbeatable sea view out in the garden when the weather permits. It’s open to beginners and experts, so if you’re interested in starting your day with a little meditation and relaxation, don’t miss visiting this Johannes. If yoga isn’t your thing, you should still pay the farm a visit and explore the incredible garden which Johannes has grown specifically for his bees. During the summertime, there are bee presentations held by Johannes where visitors can even try their hand at holding bees and tasting the amazing honey the natural flowers of Aero help to produce!

Other Things to See and Do Around the Island

Bregninge Kirke

Biking over to the Bregninge kirke (Bregninge church) is a great way to explore the island’s centre. You’ll be able to spot it long before you arrive, as its tall black tower is visible above the treetops. But like the other churches on the island, they are all inland where the steeples cannot be seen from the water. This was a strategic piece of city planning done by the Islanders.

This would prevent pirates from coming ashore in the middle ages as they would assume the peaceful island was uninhabited. Remnants of the first church built here have been dated back as far as 1100. The current incarnation is a 15th-century gothic design. Inside you’ll find a series of murals of Jesus’ Passion and the life of St. John the Baptist. But my favourite part of the church is the cemetery. A few gravestones are surrounded by a fantastically manicured hedge and flower garden.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Bregninge Store Kro

Down from the Bregninge Church, you’ll find the adorable Bregninge Store Kro. This store is like a little flea market open year-round. Here you’ll find some treasured antiques from all around Denmark, making for a really unique souvenir. If you’re looking for a doorknob or drawer, pull. There are hundreds here to choose from, each with its own vintage charm.

The Vesterstrand Beach Huts

Down from Bregninge, you’ll find dozens of picturesque tiny huts lining a long stretch of sand. These beach huts are brightly coloured and designed to suit each owner’s personality. The miniature huts along the sand have been used here for generations. Once just simple wooden shelters, they are now incredibly functional getaways where locals enjoy picnics on their little balconies, which stretch out from under darling awnings.

It was a bit rainy when we arrived, so no one else was on the beach but us. We hid under one of the huts to avoid the pouring rain as it got worse and worse and hoped that no one would come to shoo us away. Luckily they did not, and we spent the time waiting out the rain, peeking inside the little windows into these huts. Inside, they looked like a minature version of a cottage, with their knickknacks all over the walls, rich textiles layering the small chairs and couches and some even were complete with a sink and a toilet!

Voderup Klint

A few kilometres down from the Beach huts, you’ll find the Voderup Klint. The Voderup’ Klint’, or ‘cliff’ in English, is a 33-meter-high cliff which leads down to a rocky beach. This stretch of emerald green grass reaches out towards the sea and looks more like Ireland than Denmark. It is a scenic place to have a picnic or lunch and watch the waves rise and fall on a windy day. A small pathway leads you down from the top of the cliff towards the water. You can hear the sea crash against the shore as you continue down, and the fresh air here is enough to cure whatever ails you!

Rise Bryggeri

If you find yourself near rising Bryggeri, stop for a cold Danish beer. This was once a small dairy farm which has since been transformed into a cafe and the only beer brewery on the island. The brewery was originally opened in 1926 but closed its doors in 1962. Lucky for you, it was reopened in 2004 when Aero was put back on the map for its incredible tourist appeal and energy-efficient solar power technologies. This microbrewery focuses on quality vs. quantity, so you might pay a little more for what you get, but it’s well worth it. Be sure to try out the nutty and sweet Walnut beer as they make the most unique creation. Upstairs from the brewery, you’ll find a lovely cafe serving uncomplicated Danish comfort food, perfect for warming you up after a windy bike ride.

Ærø Cigar

If smoking a cigar on the balcony with the seaside in your sights is your thing, stop by Ærø Cigar. These small producers grow and hand roll their cigars from pesticide-free farms with locally grown leaves. Danish cigars are unique and worth trying, if only as a special treat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The Kragnæs Passage Grave

Across the island, there are various Neolithic burial mounds, passage graves and dolmens which trance the pre-Christian history of life on the island. The most famous of these grave sites is the passage grave from the Stone Age, around 3200 BC! A passage tomb consists of a narrow passage made of large stones and one or multiple burial chambers covered in earth or stone.

From afar, it looks like nothing more than a pile of lush grass, but as you approach, you’ll see an arrangement of rocks which forms a chamber. The chamber is 17 meters wide and 2.5 meters high. The rocks on top were not only to mark the tombs; they were a gathering spot for the Viking ancestors. The stones were thought to help with fertility, and even in more modern times, locals have been known to chip off bits of stones and take them home in the hope it imbues them with virility!

Langdyssen Tingstedet

Near the church of Stone Rise, you’ll find a 6,000-year-old dolmen. A ‘dolmen’ is a megalithic tomb with large, flat stones on top of upright ones. While the island was once home to more than 200 of these sites, less than 13 survive today. Once more, these don’t look like much from afar, but when you get closer, you’ll see the ground begin to rise up, and the risen ground takes the shape of a Viking ship. Archaeologists studying the history of Vikings on the island have found evidence that the Viking chiefs were buried here along with their ships.

øhavstien

øhavstien, or the “Archipelago Way,” is a 200-km long hiking trail and one of the longest hiking routes in Denmark. It is divided into seven different sections spread out across Denmark. The 7th section is located in Ærø and starts in Ærøskøbing and runs all along the coast to Søby or vice versa. You can hike the entire trail or take just a few hours to experience some of the trails. The trail allows you to take in all the island’s coastal areas in one fell swoop. The trail is well-marked along the route, making it easy for even beginner hikers to set out. Ærø is a great place to hike since it’s mostly flat, especially around the coast, and you’re promised some incredible views. If you’re tired of being on 2-wheels, this is a great break from the bike.

Where to Eat

Ærøskøbing Røgeri

Ærøskøbing Røgeri was our favourite place to eat while we were in town. During the off-season and even on most weekends, many places close between 5-6pm. So we’d often pick up one of these meals to take back with us for a later dinner. The small restaurant serves smoked fish of all different varieties. Smoked fish is a local delicacy of the Danes and a must-try if you’ve never sampled it. You’ll smell that unique aroma of salt and fish when you walk inside. Try all their different side dishes, and don’t immediately go for the fries.

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Cafe Aroma

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat in Aeroskobing, look no further than this absolutely adorable, colourful cafe. This cafe serves up some gourmet Danish treats made from local ingredients. Their charcuterie platters are great options if you want to try a variety of Danish delicacies. In the summer, the barbeque on the terrace is open and is a wonderful place to watch people while eating. If your hotel or guesthouse is in town, this cafe is also great for a morning cup of coffee. For dessert, don’t miss the apricot ice cream, a local specialty. The restaurant is closed for the winter season but is open again in the Spring.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Restaurant Mumm

An option for a fancy dinner in town is Restaurant Mumm. Reservations are recommended since it’s a popular joint, and there aren’t a lot of seats inside, especially during the busy summer season and on the weekends. But unlike Cafe Aroma, this restaurant is open all year long and even prides itself on having custom menus for each season, highlighting the different ingredients that time of year produces. The restaurant’s interior has a romantic candlelit atmosphere, while the terrace is overgrown with greenery and has a more laid-back feeling if that’s what you prefer. It’s definitely a pricer option, but if you’re looking to celebrate something special, this is the place for you.

Ærøskøbing Bageri Aps

I might be biased since I LOVE baked goods, but I think this is the best place to eat in Aero. This adorable little bakery serves tons of sweets inside a cozy red brick cafe, a converted 18th-century house. Ask the nice ladies inside what they recommend instead of just getting what’s familiar to you. They also sell fresh bread here, so grab a loaf and head to the grocery stores for a few other items to make yourself a stunning picnic!

Ristorante Pizzeria Badehotel Harmonien

If you want to try something other than Danish cooking, head down to the Pizzeria inside the Badehotel Harmonien hotel. This restaurant has a wood fire oven for freshly baked pizzas and is located along the waterfront. On warm summer evenings, you can eat alfresco with the sounds of the sea as the backdrop.

Glasseriet

In the summer, the Glasseriet serves up different flavours of Italian gelato inside a little gallery space featuring art and a variety of handblown glass objects. This unique blend of shops is great about this small town; they can do whatever they want.

Café Vaffelhuset

Located right up from the waterfront in Marstal, Café Vaffelhuset is a great place to cool down on a hot day. They sell delicious waffles topped with ice cream for only $6 US. During the summer, they have tables on the street so you can enjoy your dessert while watching people go by. So many people arrive on bikes, and it’s nice to watch them cruise by.

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SuperBrugsen

The supermarket in Marstal is the largest on the island. Locals gather to shop for themselves, so it’s a great opportunity to see all the different foods offered at small-town Danish supermarkets. This store is open until 7pm, which is very late in Aero, so if you ever find yourself with nowhere to eat at 5pm because everything is closed, head down to the grocery store!

Den Gamle Vingaard

This little pub in Marstal feels like walking into an old farmhouse. There is various antique farming equipment hanging from the ceiling. Try the “fish of the day” with samsø potatoes and a special mustard sauce. This is the best way to get the freshest catch and maybe even try something you might never have eaten before.

Ærø is truly a rare gem, a secret escape even the Danes love to visit when they have time to explore their own country. There are various islands off the coast of Denmark, each with its unique characteristics. But my favourite has to be Ærø. There is a certain magic found here; along the azul-coloured coastlines or lush green hills. Place to find those quiet moments important to travel. In these quiet moments, you have a chance to reflect, absorb everything you’ve discovered, and make those discoveries a part of your soul and etched into your memory. I am counting the days till I can return here. This place where my heart found a stillness and peace. Something truly so hard to find in this busy, non-stop world. I hope you find it too.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Exploring the Natural Beauty of Ærø Island [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

History of Fraser Island

Fraser Island is listed as a UNESCO world heritage site due to its rare combination of shifting sand-dunes, tropical rainforests and inland lakes. It is also the largest sand island in the world. The island was originally inhabited by the Butchulla people. ‘Butchulla’ in the aboriginal language means “the sea people” since they were surrounded on all sides by the power ocean. The Butchulla people named this island “Paradise”. Fraser Island was discovered by the western world in 1770 by explorer James Cook, but Cook never ventured onto the island, only viewed it from afar. In 1836 Captain Fraser was the first non-aboriginal to step foot on the island.

But Fraser never made it off the island, after being killed by the aboriginals but his daughter survived and was rescued. It was her that told the story of the island and what she found there. Archaeological evidence has uncovered that the aboriginal people of the island have lived here for over 5000 years. Today, the island has a permanent population of only 194 people, mind you there are a lot more people on the island day-to-day on tourist excursions but the fact that the overall population is so low means the island preserves that peaceful, oasis feeling.

Guided Tour or On Your Own?

There are two ways to experience the island for yourself. One is by joining a guided tour, and the other is by taking or renting your own car. Each has there own pros and cons and you simply need to weigh the different experiences and see which one is for you. The advantages of a guided tour are your guides are extremely experienced in driving in the sandy, off-road conditions. They are highly capable drivers who know this island inside and out. They provide food, drinks and accommodation all already set up for you upon arrival. You also get to meet other travellers and stay with a big group as well – which can be a pro or a con depending on your personality type.

The most significant drawbacks is you can’t really make the itinerary bespoke or go at your own pace. If you fall in love with one location, you can’t just stay there all day. You also don’t have as much flexibility over your accommodations or type of food. In terms of price, there are various operators, but the most reliable and highly rated 2-day tours are Fraser Explorer Tours ($250 US ) and Sunset Safaris ($286 US). And while that might seem steep remember this includes pretty much everything you’ll need along the way and a personal; guide and driver. I liked the freedom of being able not to worry about all the little details and just concentrate on the experience and seeing all those incredible new sites along the way.

Exploring Fraser Island on Your own

Going on your own is hugely advantageous since you can control every bit of your adventure, from where you stay, what you see, how long to spend in each place and what you want to eat. The biggest cons are you need to organize your car rental, permits, be your own navigator, pack all your food and either buy your own camping equipment or stay in one of the various hotels or Glamping grounds on the island. For people who love driving, getting to cruise down along the famous 75-mile beach is an experience of a lifetime. So if you’re someone who loves to drive this is definitely a bucket list adventure, you wouldn’t wanna miss. Either way, you’re bound to have a fantastic time!

Driving and Car Rental Advice

If you’re thinking of just driving your regular Honda Civic onto the island, think again. Only 4WD vehicles with low-range capacity and high clearance are allowed onto the island. Most people opt to rent a vehicle even if they have a 4WD car since the roads on Fraser Island are so tough they’d rather not push their own car too far. If you’re confident with your car and rather drive something familiar just be sure you get a permit for your vehicle to drive on the island, these can be purchased at any of the tourist information booths in Rainbow Beach or Hervey Bay.

4WD Rentals

There are many different companies which rent 4WD vehicles for Fraser Island excursions, all of which will have the necessary permits. These companies will also often help you with finding a good camping site and give advice for the best route to take at that time of year. The roads throughout Fraser Island are all made of sand and if you’ve never driven on sand before be sure to ask your renting agency for some lessons on how best to tackle it.

While there are discount places where you can get a car, this kind of expensive is something you shouldn’t skimp on. Your car breaking down on the island where there’s no reception or local police to give you a tow can turn what should be a fantastic adventure into a real catastrophe. The lowest price you’ll find for a 4WD rental is $100 US per person, per day. The prices often includes the car rental, off-road liability insurance cover, ferry transfers and vehicle permit.

Car Rental Tips

Ensure that when renting your vehicle you check the pressure in the tire as well as the car’s oil and water levels. Before leaving check that the vehicle has an emergency kit in case you get stuck in the sand or if there is a mechanical problem with the car. The best piece of equipment the car will need is a shovel since you’ll often find your wheels get stuck in the sand and need to be dug out slightly. There is virtually no reception on the island so getting a good GPS system or downloading an offline map is key to making your way around the island without getting lost.

You can also get a detailed paper map with the roads and distances marked on it provided by the National Park Service. You can pick these up at your rental agency. Remember, the beach highway is only accessible at low tide and is sometimes the gateway for you to get to your campsite, leaving it too late means you might get stranded until the water goes out once more. Driving at night is also unadvisable since there are no street lamps and the road is hard enough to see in the daytime. Avoid driving in the water since the salt water will ruin the car and even if it’s a rental you don’t want to risk getting being charged for the damage.

Packing Tips

What to Pack for a Guided Tour

If you’re taking a guided tour, you won’t need to make as long of a list as if you’re going it on your own. Here are the key items to bring with you!

• A small backpack should be enough to hold everything you need. Remember, even if you’re taking a guided tour, this is a still venturing into the natural landscape so travelling light and small is key to making the most of your journey. You don’t want to be lugging a huge suitcase through the sand.
• Good walking boots for the sandy hikes are essentials
• A pair of small flip slops are great for playing in the water and along the beach. The extra pair of shoes is always a good idea if the first pair gets water.
• The weather can sometimes be a bit rainy so if you’re expecting that bring a light raincoat.
• Even in the best whether you’re going to be in and out of the water so a few pairs of socks are a great idea.
• A small, quick dry towel is a lifesaver!
• Even in the winter or on a cloudy day the UV rays in Australia are dangerous, so sunscreen is an absolute necessity.
• Of course, bring your camera! There is indeed nothing like the spectacular things you’ll see along the way.
• Remember to carry extra batteries and portable backup charger since there isn’t much electricity available on the bus and even at the campsites it can be a hot commodity. If you’re staying at the resort you’ll be able to charge up there, but while you’re out on the road, those things are handy to have.
• A small hat and pair of sunglasses
• A bathing suit is essential for floating down one of the many lazy river creeks and swimming in the inland lakes.
• Most likely the weather will be pretty warm, so two pairs shorts and t-shirts are your best bet for your daily outfits
• A lightweight hoodie or sweater along with a pair of pants is perfect for when it cools down in the evening.
• During October to March, the bugs are pretty bad, so insect repellant is vital to remember if you’re sensitive to bug bites.
• A good water bottle that you can can refill at any of the water refill stations is a must have. Having fun on Fraser Island can get exhausting, so making sure you’re keeping hydrated is essential to remember.

What to Pack for a self driving trip

If you’re renting a car and driving yourself, you can stop off at one of the many supply shops near the ferry stations which are always stocked with exactly the right things for campers on their way to Fraser Island. In addition to all items below, you’ll need the same as the above mentioned for the group tours. The camping essentials you’ll need are;

• Camping equipment (tent, sleeping bags, etc.)
• Extra fuel and a full tank
• A lantern or flashlight (key for late night trips to the bathroom)
• Ice inside a proper cooler
• Lots of water for drinking and washing (don’t skimp on this)
• An emergency medical supplies kit
• A gas cooking stove
• Food to eat both on the road and at your campsite
• Most of the campgrounds have public toilets, but some of the showers cost $2 so be sure you have some change on hand for them as well.

Accommodations

There are four options for lodging while visiting the island. If you’re travelling on a guided tour, each provider has a specific accommodation type which is provided so if you are hell bent on not camping be sure to check which kind of lodging they offer before booking. Now, I’m not a big fan of camping either, but I LOVED camping out on Fraser Island so I would highly recommend getting your courage up and giving it a try! It really connects you to the natural environment in a way that hotels are never going to give you.

Hotels

There are various hotels on the island in the central locations of Kingfisher Bay, Happy Valley and Eurong. The most popular and highly rated is the Kingfisher Bay Resort on the west coast. Rooms cost as little as $130 US for a standard room. The Eurong Resort Hotel on the northeast coast is another option with rooms at $90 US/night.

Airbnb

Airbnb is another option which has recently started up on the island. They have houses with full kitchens and rooms for a vast group. While their prices range from $180-230 a night, you get a better sense of life on the island and can house a lot of people so if you’re a big group you might find the price per person actually quite low.

Campgrounds

Camping is the most authentic way to experience Fraser Island. There are 45 different camping areas across the island, each with their own unique features and facilities. Five of the camping areas are surrounded by dingo deterrent fences. The downside to these areas are they aren’t very private. The most popular areas on the island are the ones closest to the primary services (Eurong, Happy Valley and Cathedrals) and roads but if you’re willing to trek out a bit further and are prepared to be self-sufficient, you’ll be rewarded with total privacy.

Central Station camping area is one of the most popular as it’s located near the major roads, has a fenced area, offers excellent facilities and best of all is situated under one of the most picturesque regions of the canopied rainforest.

Waddy Point beachfront camping area offers up the most impressive views of the sunset across the crystal clear waters. There is also a fenced in an area here and as such this spot books up quick! Camping should be booked in advance if possible as it guarantees you the place you want. The cost to book in advance is a small fee of $4 US but worth it for the peace of mind. The cost of camping is meagre, only $4 US per adult and $3.3 US per child.

Glamping

My favourite option and the one we stayed in with our guided tour was the Beachcamp Eco Retreat. While this might sound extravagant, it’s actually an excellent option for people who want the outdoor experience of camping but don’t want to rent or buy a tent. You just arrive, check in and walk into your tent all set up and ready for you. And its more than just a tent. The Beachcamp Eco Retreat provides Glamping Tents which have a real bed inside on top of a raisedfloor, key for those rainy days. The retreat’s electricity and water run on solar power, so it is very eco-friendly. There are hot showers on site along with an ensuite bathroom, private beach access, BBQs as well as a fully equipped kitchen. The cost is $98 US/night for the for a room for 2 adults and 2 kids.

Food on Fraser Island

Plan on bringing your own food unless you are staying at the resorts, where there are restaurants on the premises. Although there are some places to eat around the island they are pretty pricey and often will require going out of your way to access. Groceries can be purchased in town before heading onto the island, and you can buy a veritable feast for under $100 for a family of 4. Be sure to pick up some traditional Aussie camping treats. This includes; a goon sack (or three…) which is basically boxed wine without the box, kangaroo sausages for grilling, baked beans, Vegemite and bread for toast, some canned chicken and corn soup, hamburgers with beetroot, a box of Lamingtons and Tim Tam for dessert. And of course, lots of water.

Accessing Fraser Island

Fraser Island is located 300 kilometres north of Brisbane. Most people arrive at Fraser Island from Hervey Bay or Rainbow Beach whether they’re joining a tour of driving themselves. The best way to get to either of these destinations is to make your way to Brisbane (serviced by all major airlines) and take the Greyhound or Premiere bus to the Hervey Bay or Rainbow Beach. If you’re driving yourself, you won’t need to worry about the bus and just drive yourself to one of the two ferry points of access. Some tours also offer pickup in Brisbane so be sure to check the itinerary before booking since a pickup in Brisbane might save you a lot of time.

Ferries

If you’re taking a guided tour, they’ll give you a specific timeline of where to meet and your ticket onto the ferry will be prepaid. If you’re driving your own vehicle or your car rentals didn’t include ferry tickets the prices and ferry departure times are listed below.

Rainbow Beach Ferry

Rainbow Beach ferry departs from Inskip Point on the Manta Ray Barge. These barges leave every 30 minutes from 6:00 am to 5:15 pm. The return prince from this departure point is only $84 US including all passengers, so it’s definitely the best option price-wise.

Hervey Bay Ferry

Hervey Bay‘s ferry departs from River Heads and leaves the mainland at 8:30 am, 10:15 am, 4.00 pm. This barge requires a reservation in advance since there aren’t as many daily departures. River Heads Ferry costs between $120 US for a standard 4WD vehicle including the driver and $190 US for a Large 4WD vehicle. Each additional passenger in the car is $4 US. Once more, if you’ve purchased a package with this included you won’t need to worry about paying.

Beware of Dingos

Dingos on Fraser Island are actually the last remaining pure-bred dingoes in Australia. And while spotting one of these iconic creatures might be a momentous moment, you also need to be aware that while they might look cute, you always need to take caution whenever you are around them. Dingos have been known to attack people, and there have even been a few cases where it has ended in fatalities. As recent as January of this year a young boy was attacked by a group of dingos and had to be airlifted to the hospital. So they indeed are no laughing matter. There are a few safety tips to ensure you don’t let that happen to you.

• Always ensure your food is locked away in your vehicle and never ever feed the dingoes. Don’t leave food in your tent even if it’s sealed, the dingos can still smell it and get in. Make sure you clean up any food of tables and grills after eating since the smell is likely to attract them as well.
• Always keep children within arms reach. The dingos are less likely to attack when faced with a group of large adults.
• While going for a jog on the beach might seem appealing, avoid running or jogging since it will trigger the dingos into an aggressive interaction.
• If you do run into a dingo, stand still and face the dingo, don’t turn your back as that leaves you vulnerable. Calmly walk backwards and call for help.
• Should you be attacked the emergency number in Australia is 000 or 112. Most people who visit the island never even see a dingo and while this all might sound scary the chances of having a negative encounter if you follow this advice is very minimal.

Things to See and Do

While I would love to create you a detailed, hour by hour itinerary, your journey will be dictated by the tide. Some locations might be inaccessible if you’ve arrived at high tide and the order you visit each destination will depend on which ferry point you arrive at. So below is a sample itinerary of arrival from the Rainbow Beach Ferry Terminal and camping in Waddy Point Beachfront Campground. But even if you want a different route, the list of things to see and do here is a great start for your trip planning.

Day One – The Beach

Seventy-Five Mile Beach

Upon arrival on the island, you’ll immediately be struck by the incredible, bright white sands of the Seventy-Five Mile Beach. This beach stretches out the entire length of the east side of the island. As you approach the island from the ferry, you’ll see it straight away, contrasted by the bright blue waters and dark green forest. While the beach might look like a great place to take a dip, there is a large shark population and dangerous current which plagues this area. But don’t worry, there are still lots of places to take a dip while driving along the island!

Hammerstone Sandblow

Head inland when you reach Eurong Beach, and you’ll be on your way to see the Great Hammerstone Sandblow. Sandblows are major sand formations which flow like a river in a particular direction from weather and erosion. These sandblows shift and changes the landscape over time. This one actually is covering what used to be an entire forest eco-system which has been swallowed up with sand over the years. For the past 700,000 years, these sand dunes have been shifting and changing the shape of the island. The highest dune of the island is over 240 metres above sea level. The best way to take in the sheer enormity of these sandblows is from the air. And while a flight might not be an option, there are great hiking trails near our next destination which lead you up above the dunes where you can look out over the scenery.

Lake Wabby

Lake Wabby is a 4.8 km round trip hike from the nearest road. You get actually to walk across the Sandblow as you go. Trust me, I’m not very fit, but even I managed this hike. Driven by pure excitement as what I saw once we got out of the vehicle. Footprints from other travels create and bumpy pathway across what looks like a desert surrounded by a great rainforest. Located on the edge of the dunes is a Lake Wabby, an emerald green lake and the deepest of all the inland lakes on Fraser. Unlike the other though, this one is filled with wildlife! Freshwater turtles and even some fish can be seen swimming under the surface of the water!

Fraser Island Great Walk

Beside Lake Wabby is access to the Fraser Island Great Walk. This hiking trail is over 90km long, but you can quickly jump on it here and hike for only for a short time up unto the Lake Wabby lookout point. The landscape throughout the hike gives you a glimpse into the subtropical rainforest which makes Fraser Island so unique. Trees bend and twist as their sandy foundations shifts with the wind. The trees each contained strange and fascinating leaves and even some odd, alien looking growths.

Follow the signs along the way to the Lake Wabby look out. From here you have an unparalleled glimpse across not only the lake and sandblows but out onto the oceans as well. From here the people swimming in the waters looked like tiny ants and you could even spot groups of dingos out for a drink.

Eli Creek

Drive back down to the 75 Mile Beach and continue along until you reach Eli Creek. You’ll know you’ve made it right away from the groups of cars parked outside. During high season this area can get crowded but just remember you’re all there to see something amazing and don’t let the crowds get to you. Eli Creek is a clear freshwater creek surrounded by a leisurely boardwalk.

The creek stretches along inland and you can float down it inside a floaty doughnut or just walk along the broadway further into the lush rainforest. The water level rises and falls with the rainfall and the creek has been known to get as deep as 2 meters. It’s such a relaxing place just to cool off and admire your surroundings. This is a fantastic spot for the kids! When we visited the creek was very shallow, and we could even walk through many parts of it. If you need to use the washroom, this is also an excellent place to stop off.

Maheno Wreck

Further up from Eli Creek you’ll come upon a bright orange ship, sitting all alone on the shore. This is the S. S. Maheno. The Maheno was shipwrecked here in 1935 when a cyclone washed it onto the coast of Fraser Island. The ship was once used as a hospital by New Zealand’s Naval forces in World War I. During low tide, the entirety of the rusting vessel is exposed. The rusted metal is stunning against the white sands and blue seas.

Unlike some tourist attractions which are off limits, you have free reign of this place. And despite some signs advising not to climb up on top, you can really adventure right inside of it and imagine what different areas of the ship would have been used for before it was nothing but scrap metal. If you haven’t already had something to eat along the way in your car, this area has some great picnic tables where to can eat.

Red Canyon

As we continue up north, we come upon the incredibly colourful Coloured Sand Pinnacles, these can be found at the Red Canyon Park marked on your map. These multicoloured dunes are composed of iron compounds in the silica sand which give them this vibrant red, orange and sometimes even purples colours Different trees and bushes grow right out of the sand, the dark green leaves against the red a seemingly unnatural colour combo but created right from the earth.

These mystical sands were a feature in the aboriginal Butchulla people’s sacred stories. One such story is of a beautiful woman named Wuru who was promised to marry an older man named Winyer. But she loved someone else, she had fallen in love with Wiberigan, the rainbow serpent. Seeing them together one day the older man threw his boomerang at Wuru in anger but Wiberigan stepped in front of it to save Wuru. When the boomerang hit him the rainbow serpant it spilt its colours out all over the sandy cliffs. And to this day the cliffs are thought to be a place of good luck for the aboriginal people.

Indian Head

Continue driving a fair ways until you reach Indian Head lookout. Indian Head is a rocky hilltop which looks out over the island. A short hike up the outcrop will lead you to one of the best views on the island. The view from here not only looks out over the 75-mile beach but also the nearby crashing ocean. Take some time to study the water. If you bring some binoculars or even with the naked eye, you’ll have the chance to spot whales, dolphins, shark, rays and even turtles! It’s worth spending some time up here, we were mesmerized but the whales which breached the water and stayed here almost until the light of the day started to ween.

Champagne Pools

From the Indian Head trail, head down to the famed Champagne Pools. The Champagne Pools were my favourite part of the trip. Here, the surf crashes over the rocks and over hundreds of years has created these small pools on top of the rocks near the ocean’s edge. You can lounge in these waterlogged pools of water and relax in the sunlight. The water is actually quite warm, and it looks almost like a spa from afar, it’s hard to imagine its all natural.

Waddy Point

Pitch your tent in one of the various dingo fenced camping areas to stay the safest. Make some dinner on the gas stove and watch as the sun set over the ocean. This time of night on the island the cars stop running and the silence of only the wind over the waves is all that fills the air.

Nightlife

When night falls on the island, the entire place takes on a new shape. Check your local National Park guide book to see if there are any rangers tours near your campground at night. Don’t do it on on your own! These rangers are highly trained in local wildlife and how to avoid running into dangerous creatures. That being said there are some creatures you do want to see, this includes rare frogs, sugar gliders, snakes and some ENORMOUS spiders. We loved the tour we went on with the local ranger and felt it gave us a scary, yet exhilarating look at the different creatures which rule the island.

Day Two – Inland Rainforest

Rainforest Drive

On day two we are heading deep into the rainforest. The drive from the northernmost part of the island, inland toward Lake Mackenzie is a rough and wild ride, but it’s worth getting out along the way to stretch your legs and admire the incredible rainforest which surrounds you. You’ll be driving through this incredibly dense rainforest for a few hours so stopping along the way is a great way to break up the time.

Lake McKenzie

Lake McKenzie is one of the most popular parts of the of the island. It is often overwhelming full of tourists and bus tours. My advice? Skip it. This might sound like a crazy piece of advice since it’s famed as being one of the best things to see on the island. But right nearby are two other inland lakes which are arguably just as beautiful and you’ll have all to yourself. If you stop at McKenzie lake and it’s not too crowded by all means do it! But there’s no harm in checking out the others too.

Basin Lake

If Lake McKenzie is too busy considering heading a short ways away to Basin Lake. Basin Lake is an enormous perched lake formed when organic matter gradually decomposed and hardens into depressions created by the wind, making a lake bed that is actually above sea level. Because of the sensitive ecosystem in the lake, it is essential you do not wear sunscreen if you decide to take a swim. While this lake has a slightly more textural bottom than Lake McKenzie, I would argue it’s all the most scenic and peaceful. The water was pretty cold but it was an experience of a lifetimetaking a dip inside these unique waters. While Wabby Lake might be emerald green, this lake is crystal blue.

Wanggoolba Creek

Wanggoolba Creek is located in an area was once known as Central Station. Central Station was once the centre of the forestry industry when there was logging on Fraser Island. Some of the rarest ferns grow in the rainforest near here. There are beautiful boardwalks along Wanggoolba Creek with informative signage listing facts about the different flora and fauna growing on Fraser Island.

This brings you to the end of the tour. Take your vehicle back to the ferry station and catch the last ferry of the day. The last ferry of the day is silhouetted by the sunset against the water as you sail away from the island. I hope this guide helps you with your trip to Fraser Island. Are you planning on visiting sometime soon or have you been before? What are you looking forward to seeing or what was your favourite location? Share your thoughts with us in the comments!

The post The Ultimate Guide to a Road Trip across Australia’s Fraser Island first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. The Legend of Enoshima
3. Beaches
4. Should I get the Enoshima Day Pass?
5. Dragon's Gate
6. Waterfront
7. Nakamise Shopping Street
8. Enoshima Torii Gates
9. Zuishinmon
10. Benzaiten Goddess statue
11. Entering Enoshima Shrine
12. Hetsumiya
13. Chinowa
14. Ho-an-den
15. Nakatsunomiya Square
16. Nakatsunomiya Shrine
17. Samuel Cocking Garden
18. Enoshima Sea Candle
19. Enoshima Daish
20. Enoshima Pilgrimage Path
21. Okutsunomiya Shrine
22. Wadatsumi-no-miya
23. Love Bell
24. Uonemotei
25. Iwaya caves
26. Ferry Boat

Access

Enoshima is accessible by three train, each of which has its separate station. Depending on where you’re departing from will determine which line is best for your trip. If you’re departing from Tokyo the best options is the express train from Shinjuku station which will take you to Fujisawa station. From here you can board a local train to Katase Enoshima Station. One way tickets for this route costs 630 yen and takes around 65-75 minutes. If you’re planning on visiting Kamakura and other locations around the area, consider buying the Odakyu Railways Enoshima/Kamakura Free Pass which is 1470 yen and gives you unlimited use of trains between Fujisawa and Kamakura and Odakyu trains between Fujisawa and Enoshima.

The Legend of Enoshima

Understanding the legend which surrounds this island will help you understand the people and the history of this place.

There was once an evil dragon, with five heads, who settled in the bottomless swamp among the mountains of Fujisawa and tormented the people of the village. The peasants feared the dragon like no other as he would steal their children away in the middle of the night. Then, one day, an immense clouds enveloped the sea, and an earthquake erupted. From the clouds emerged a heavenly maiden, Benzaiten, and from the sea she brought with her an island, Enoshima Island. The dragon fell in love with the maiden and proposed to her but she refused him because of all the evil things he had done.

The dragon spent the next few years trying to mend his evil ways. He even turned himself into stone to show her how much he loved her. Eventually, the maiden forgave the dragon for the things he had done wrong and freed him from the stone mountain which had formed around him. After he was set free, they were married. Today the maiden Benzaiten still guards Enoshima along with the dragon, who now also protects the Islanders.

Beaches

If you’re visiting Japan in the summer, the city can get pretty warm so escaping to a beach might be just what you need on one of those hot, humid days. Enoshima has some of the best beaches close to Tokyo and although they can get crowded, arrive early to pitch your towel and relax on the sand all morning long. Japanese crowds are so polite and organized, even if it’s crowded when you arrive you’ll find it easy to squeeze in.

Should I get the Enoshima Day Pass?

The Enoshima Day Pass (separate from the Odakyu Railway Pass) costs 1000 yen and gives you access to the Samuel Cocking Garden, observation tower and the caves as well as the use of the escalators used to get up and down the island’s hills. You can always buy individual tickets for the escalators but they cost 300 yen each way. The gardens with observation access and the caves each cost 500 yen to enter so the pass pays for itself in those fees alone. But that’s only if you’re planning on visiting these two sites. If not, the pass isn’t worth it.

If you do end up with the pass and you’re feeling a little tired by the time you near the top, you’ll be able to ride the escalators free of charge! I still prefer the stairs myself but if you have a disability or just aren’t feeling up to it that day, the pass is definitely a good choice.

Dragon’s Gate

Walking from the train station towards the island, across the causeway, is one of my favourite parts of visiting the island. The pedestrian walkways towards the island is wonderfully decorated with statues and fantastically manicured gardens, framing the ascent to the island perfectly. As you approach, you’ll pass through the dragon-shaped stone lanterns which are the gatekeepers of the island. It’s amazing how different the landscape here is from Tokyo, you can smell the air blowing off the ocean.

Waterfront

The waterfront on Enoshima island on the north side is vastly different front the south, were the famed Iwaya caves are located. This part of the island has a steep drop off towards the waters looking out at Sagami Bay. There is a small park along the waterfront with a few dozen small sculptures to gaze at. This park is dedicated to both the Olympics, held here in 1964 as well as representations of the Goddess Benten whom the entire island is named after. I decided this was a great place to have a quick snack before my hike up the hill.

Nakamise Shopping Street

As you approached the staircase towards the first shrine you’ll pass under a large set of bronze torii gates. Behind these gates are dozens of souvenir shops and small restaurants. These are all run by locals and have an immense charm to them. So even if the items their selling don’t seem super bespoke to Enoshima, they are still a pleasure to browse inside.

Enoshima Torii Gates

At the end of Nakamise Street you’ll find yourself approaching the bright vermillion Torii gates, before Enoshima Shrine. These torii gates symbolise the passing from the mortal realm into the realm of the gods. As you pass through, try to clear your mind, and connect with yourself in a deep and meaningful way. I find that when travelling sometimes things are so busy and hectic and this moment is a reminder to reflect and remember instead of just go, go, go.

Zuishinmon

Past the torii gates is a large wooden tower, this is the ‘Zuishinmon Gate’. The design of the tower was based on a fairytale underwater palace called ‘Ryugujyo’. On the underside of the structure are carvings of peonies and lions on the walls and ceilings. These symbolize a prayer to protect the Goddess and their worshippers.

Benzaiten Goddess statue

Behind the tower gate you’ll meet face to face the Benzaiten goddess. Here she sits, carved in stone, nestled in with her follows, surrounded by the fabled dragon whom she defeated for the people. This statue was made in 1450 yet feels so fresh and new, despite its age.

Entering Enoshima Shrine

The Enoshima Shrine, is made up of three main buildings. The Hetsumiya, the Ho-an-den and the Nakatsumiya. Before entering any of the buildings, be sute to stop by the ‘temizuya‘. The temizuya or chōzuya is a Shinto water absolution pond for a ceremonial purification rite known as temizu. To perform the ritual, just fill the ladle provided with water and wash your left hand, then your right, and if you want, drink some of the water and spit it out to cleanse your mouth. If you’re scared to do it wrong, simply watch others and you’ll get the hang of it in no time. It feels nice to participate in this ritual as it connects you with the spiritual nature of the shrine itself.

Hetsumiya

The main building in one this level is the Hetsumiya. The original wooden building with a traditional copper winged roof, was built in 1620 by Minamono no Sanetomo, the third Shogun of Kamakura Shogunate. The current version was re-built in 1976 in the exact style as the original. Inside this buildings is where the Tagitsuhime-no-Mikoto are enshrined. The Tagitsuhime-no-Mikoto are three sister goddess who are known to control the seas, which feels so appropriate as you are surrounded by the sea on all sides on the island.

Inside the Shrine you’ll see a large metal box where you can make an offering. If you’ve never made an offering at a shrine before here is how you do it. Stand in front of the offertory box, throw a coin into the box, bow twice towards the shrine, then clap your hands twice and think deep in your mind of the wish you want to come true. Then, finish the ritual by bowing deeply towards the offertory box once more. A little wish for luck never hurt anyone and you can feel good that your money is going towards keeping the shrine up and running.

Chinowa

Beside the Hetsumiya you might be puzzled by a green ring standing off to the side. This is the chinowa, an object used to cleanse your mind and body as you pass through the ring. It is said to remove all your wrongdoings and impurities.

Ho-an-den

The Ho-an-den is a small, bright red, octagonal building where you can see the famous statue of the deity Benzaiten. This building costs 200 yen to enter and is the only shrine on the island which requires payment to enter. Unlike many other statues of the Benzaiten, this one is nude, sitting on a pedestal playing a biwa. Benzaiten is very important to women, as she is the only female deity of the seven gods of fortune. If you are really interested in the statue it’s worth visiting but I personally prefer the statue you see on your way up the stairs and had a better time admiring the fantastical exterior architecture of the building instead of going inside.

Ema

If you’re feeling unlucky in love, be sure to buy an ’ema’. An ema is wooden prayer plaque from the shrine where you can write your wish for love onto. Then hang it with the rest of the wishes, blowing gently in the wind atop the island. This shrine is fabled to be particularly good for matchmaking!

Nakatsunomiya Square

Before heading up to the next level, spend some time wondering around Nakatsunomiya Square. This little garden with a observation deck of the city below, is always full of seasonal blooms and if you’re lucky enough to visit during Cherry Blossom season, you’ll be in for a real treat. Since these trees and their blooms up here are perfectly hidden away from the crowds you have a much better chance of getting to experience Japan’s most popular symbol without fighting for space.

Nakatsunomiya Shrine

The second shrine site on the island is found just around the corner and up the hill from Enoshima Shrine. This is Nakatsunomiya, the oldest shrine on the island, established in 853 by the Buddhist monk En-nin. The frieze above the door to the shrine contains over 154 carvings of various real and mythological flora and fauna popular on the island. You could stand here for hours and never be able to find them all.

Samuel Cocking Garden

The Samuel Cocking Gardens were built in 1880 by British merchant Samuel Cocking. Cocking collected tropical plants from every corner of the world he travelled to but he settled in Japan after finding love on the island. Originally the Japanese government only allowed locals to purchase land but when the laws where changed, Cocking saw his chance to buy up some of the best real estate on the island.

After the couples passing, the title of the gardens was passed onto the city of Fujisawa who saw it’s reconstruction after the great earthquake. Today, you can explore a variety of flowers found not only in Japan but all over the world. From February to March there are 250 different breeds of camellia flowers blooming and from May to October dazzling crimson roses from Canada begin to blossom. My favourite part of the gardens was the dynamic landscaping. There were archways created with hanging baskets, gazebos surrounded in blooms and beautiful mazes you could wander in dazzling colours.

Enoshima Sea Candle

In the middle of the garden stands the giant 200 foot tall Enoshima Sea Candle. From the observation tower you can see all across Enoshima, Fujisawa and beyond. On a rare clear day, you have an absolutely stunning view of Mount Fuji. The Day I visited the Mountain was unfortunately still in hiding, but the view just down to the lush green gardens was incredible and well worth the money to come up the tower. I loved looking out across the brilliant blue seas. Living in a city not near an ocean, there is something truly mesmerizing to me about the ocean and I could have stared at it for hours.

Enoshima Daish

Past the Gardens, you’ll come upon the unmistakable Buddhist temple of Enoshima Daishi. During the Meiji Period, there was a governmental separation between Shintoism and Buddhism. Buddhist temples all over Japan were destroyed and it wasn’t until the 1990’s that Enoshima residents had the chance to rebuild one of their most important temples on the island, Enoshima Daishi. Standing in front of the steps into the temple are two huge, six-meter tall statues of Fudomyo, the protector of Buddhism. Staring up at them as you enter is an intimidating process and made me a little skittish when stepping down into the temple, but I guess that just means they’re doing their job.

Inside the temple, there is a blend of modern and traditional Japanese architecture. But what continues to stand the test of the time is the peaceful feeling you get when you come inside the incense soaked temple. There was a man praying when I came inside who later told me he had come all the way from Kyoto just to pray here today, and it made the temple’s significance all the more powerful to me.

Enoshima Pilgrimage Path

Descending down from the top of Enoshima is almost as much work as climbing up. It’s around 250 steps down to the bottom but the journey downwards provides so many different things to see along the way. This pathway is known as Oiwaya-michi or the Pilgrimage way. This pathway was taken by thousands of people over the year who made their way to the Iwaya Caves. Various houses found along the stairways are covered in beautiful seashells, a testament to the love of the sea which these residents have. As you descend, you’ll get amazing views of the cliff side and the sea below. One of the views to the left of the staircase is down to Yama-futatsu, a vallery where the mountain to the east and west connect.

Okutsunomiya Shrine

As you descend from the top of the island you’ll come upon the last of the shrines, this is Okutsunomiya Shrine or “Shrine of the Deep”. Inside this shrine it is said that the sea goddess rests during the winter inside a cave and when the summer returns, the goddess will emerge once more to protect the sea. The stone torri gate which welcomes you into the shrine is from 1138, a gift from the Shogun of Kamakura.

The two red lanterns on either side of the shrine depict Otohime (on the right) and Urashima Taro (on the left). Otohime is the princess of the undersea palace Ryūgū-jō and Urashima Tarō is the fabled fisherman who, after recusing a sea turtle, is rewarded for his good deed by being brought to the undersea palace. For this turtle was no ordinary turtle, he was the all-seeing turtle of the deep. The fisherman was entertained and cared for inside the undersea palace by the princess. If you look closely on the ceiling of the shrine, you’ll see the All-seeing turtle from the story. The turtle is also called the one who watches all directions, since no matter which direction you look, the turtle appears to be looking right at you!

Set beside the temple you’ll see a large stone surrounded by the paper lightning bolts which also are hung from torri gates. This stone is the Chikara-ishi. A Chikara-ishi is a “stone of strength” which are often seen at shrines as they represent the strength which the gods bestow upon their followers. This stone weighing 320kg, which is said to have been brought to the shrine by the most power man in the nation.

Wadatsumi-no-miya

Beside Okutsu-No-Miya-Jinja shrine you’ll find Wadatsumi-no-miya. Unlike the other shrines, this one is more like a rock cave, with a bright green dragon perched on top. This is Ryujin, the dragon god of the sea, and it is said that inside is where he is enshrined. You can peek your head inside the cave during the day through a small screen, and in the deep, dank dark, there was moment where I thought I saw a small pair of eye in the darkness…

Love Bell

A few steps up from the shrines, there is a small, overgrown trail which will lead you to a little hill with an incredible view of the ocean. Atop this hill stands the ‘Love Bell‘. Since the legend of Benten and the dragon falling in love with her is so important to the mythology of the island, this bell was purchased and placed here by local couples who wished to express their undying love for each other, much like the dragon and the goddess. Each of the donors had their names engraved on the structure surrounding the bell.

Every couple who now visits this site has their chance to ring the bell to announce their undying love to the dragon and maiden. Couples have begun leaving locks on the surrounding fence with the names engraved upon them. Every year the locks have to be removed so the fence does not collapse. So maybe the locks won’t last a lifetime, but hopefully, your love will.

Uonemotei

If I can suggest one place to eat on your tour of the island it HAS to be Uonemotei. This restaurant has been here for over 140 years. It has been serving locals and pilgrims alike delicious food, right from the sea. Sitting out on their patio you have a beautiful view of the ocean and can smell the refreshing sea breeze. The house special is the “Enoshima-don” which are young sardines served with turban shells and beaten eggs atop warm rice. This is the best thing you can eat to experience true Enoshima cuisine.

Iwaya caves

Unless you’re a HUGE fan of caves or have the Enoshima Day Pass, I would skip this. The reason being they are hugely touristy and crowded and you’ll have more fun exploring the rocky seaside around them instead. Inside the first cave you’ll find Buddhist statues, and in the second you’ll find a small pond dedicated to the dragon who used to terrorize the area. During the Nara era, Buddhist monks used to be trained here in the cave, so visiting the caves was somewhat of a pilgrimage for Buddhists all over the world. Overall though, it’s a pretty simple cave and your time and money is better spent elsewhere on the island unless you have the day pass.

Around the caves, you’ll see dozens of little reefs where local fisherman are almost always camped you trying to get the catch of the day. I had a relaxing time sitting out on the rocks, near where the waves would crash against the rocks, getting sprayed every time a huge wave would come in.

Ferry Boat

To head back to the train station, I recommend taking a ferry boat ride. Throughout the day there are little ferry boats which run back and forth from the mainland to the island. Head over to the Bentenmaru pier where you can board one of the little boats. The ride isn’t very long but seeing the island from the water is a very unique perspective that gives you an idea of the scope and size of Enoshima. It’s a great opportunity to step back, literally, and see the place you just came from from afar. Look right up high and you can see the top of the Enoshima Candle and the Enoshima flag which flies high above.

Enoshima is truly one of the best place to go to take a break from the city and get a breath of FRESH air. If you have even half a day, or better yet a whole day, you NEED to make your way out here and experience another side of life in Japan.

The post The Best Self Guided Tour of Enoshima Island; Amazing Day Trip from Tokyo first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.