A Welcome Bouquet

I find that a bouquet of fresh flowers is the perfect thing to buy yourself upon arriving in a new city. It gives you a little task to complete, allows you to explore a new part of the city, and brings a touch of your personality into any standard hotel room. If you’ve been in Mexico City for any length of time, you’ll undoubtedly have seen the vast flower carts that wheel around the city. Bursting with brightly coloured flowers as they mill about the streets.

There are also beautiful flower stands that dot the edges of busy neighbourhoods and leafy promenades. Basically, you won’t be far from flowers anywhere you go in Mexico City! But the source of all these incredible flowers is the great Mercado Jamaica. So if you want to get your flowers from the source, a trip to Mercado Jamaica is well worth your time. But there is so much more to see in this marketplace than just flowers. Come hungry as this flower market is also home to some of the most amazing food anywhere in the city!

Guide to the Mercado Jamaica

1. Location & How to Get there?
2. History of the Jamaica Market
3. Tips
   • Notes on Photography
   • Holidays
   • Helpful Spanish
4. The Layout of the Market
5. Carnitas Paty
   • Tepache
6. Huaraches Rossy
7. Mariscos Los Paisas
8. Piñata Market
9. Fresh Fruit Stands
10. Jamaica Flowers
11. Chorizo Verde
12. Flower Market
13. Florists
14. La Güera Elotes
15. Mural

Location & How to Get there?

The Mercado Jamaica is located on the corner of Avenida Congreso de la Unión and Avenida Morelos, southeast of the Historic Center of Mexico City. 

Uber

Uber is always my best recommendation for travel in Mexico City. It’s very safe and very cheap! The Mercado Jamaica is about a 13-minute ride from La Condesa, Roma Norte or the Historic Centre. And it will only cost you about 35 pesos or $1.35 USD! Although traffic in Mexico City is as bad as you might have heard, just avoid peak hours and you should be fine to avoid the worst of the traffic.

Metro

The market is also easily accessible by the metro. If you are departing from La Condesa or Roma you can hop on brown line #9. Get on at Chilpancingo station and take the train four stops to Jamaica station (about 12 minutes). If you are departing from the Historic Centre, you’ll need to take two different metro lines. First, depart from the #2 blue line from Tasqueña station and take it three stops to Chabacano station (6 mins). Transfer from here to the brown line #9 and continue one stop towards Jamaica station (3 mins). The metro costs only 5 pesos, and if you’re up for more of an adventurous journey, this is an easy and quick trip. But always be sure to practice caution on the metro and keep your valuables safe and not on display.

History of the Jamaica Market

Although you might read the word “Jamaica” and think of the country, Jamaica is actually the Spanish word for hibiscus flower. So the name of the market translates into the Hibiscus Market. The Mercado Jamaica was officially established in the 1950s when the eastern part of Mexico City was a governmental focus for modernization and revitalization. But outdoor marketplaces have existed in this spot for hundreds of years. Being located to the east of the city, near the chinampas of Lake Xochimilco, this part of town has always had wonderful access to the fruits, vegetables and flowers that have been grown there for centuries.

Tips

Cash is King

Bring cash with you to the market to buy your flowers and food as almost everywhere is cash only. But remember not to carry too much money on you when arriving as you need to be aware of pickpockets in such a busy environment. I would bring about 500 pesos ($25 USD) per person, which is more than enough if you want to buy yourself a lovely bouquet, grab some food and get a little left if you see a souvenir or two you’d like to purchase. 

Come Hungry!

Despite the fact that we are going to what is known for being a “flower market” this is still a foodie’s paradise so come on an empty stomach and get ready to eat. If you get full but want to come back for more food later you can always grab a bite to eat to start, then explore the flower market, and return to the starting point where you can sample the rest of the eateries you didn’t try earlier.

How to Keep Safe

This market is slightly outside the tourist centre, so you should be more cautious about your belongings. But no more than you should be in any busy marketplace anywhere in the world. Keeping aware of your surroundings is the most important thing you can do. If you carry a backpack, you can wear it in front of you. And always be sure to keep any valuables zipped inside inner pockets. Remember, this is a very busy, working market, so be sure not to stand in the way of people going about their business. Large carts and trucks often go up and down the aisles making deliveries, so keep a lookout for them.

Notes on Photography

I took many pictures here, had my phone out, and never felt unsafe. But I would advise you to take out your phone or camera, snap a few pictures and then put it away instead of just keeping it in your hand. This is probably not 100% necessary, but I always lean on the side of caution.

Be sure you keep a keen eye open for the “No Photography” signs around the market. There are several reasons for this. Some florists are wary of other sellers stealing their designs so they don’t allow photos of their products. Other vendors might have personal reasons for not being photographed, spiritual or simply, for privacy. No matter the reason, please respect their wishes. Many places in the market do not have these signs, so you’ll be able to get all the pictures you need elsewhere. If in doubt, it’s always polite to ask before taking a picture.

When To Go

The best time for fresh flowers in Mexico City is from April to July. Although flowers are available year-round from greenhouses, this time of year is when you can get the flowers for the cheapest price as they are the most abundant. I would advise you to avoid going here on the weekends. This is when the market is the busiest and most chaotic. I found that visiting on the weekdays meant there was still lots to see, buy, and eat, but the atmosphere was a bit more laid back. Because this market also exports flowers around the world and throughout the country, this is the only market in Mexico City that is open 24 hours a day! So you can be sure that no matter when you visit there is something to see!

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Holidays

If you find yourself in Mexico City during the Day of the Dead festivities, Mercado Jamaica is incredible to check out. It is the main supplier of hundreds of thousands of flowers that adorn ofrendas all over the city. The market is filled to bursting during this time of year, with truckloads of marigolds coming to and from every day! Marigolds are called ‘cempaxuchitl‘ in Spanish, which means “flower of the dead.” Since they are one of the most fragile flowers they have been known to represent the fragility of life itself.

Another fantastic time of year to come to Mercado Jamaica is at Christmas time. Even in Mexico City, you’ll find hundreds of evergreen Christmas trees lining the outside of the marketplace, ready to be picked up by excited families to nestle their presents under. Inside you’ll find hundreds of poinsettias, as this Christmas flower is locally grown in Mexico. The piñatas are a real showstopper at Christmas time, and you’ll find one in almost every household. Piñatas were traditionally designed in the shape of a seven coned star, with each spoke representing one of the seven deadly sins. Bashing the piñata was the symbol of good triumphing over evil and the fruit and candy inside the reward for leading a good, Christian life.

Helpful Spanish

Here are some handy dandy Spanish words to help you out at the Market! The colours will be very helpful to learn so you can ask for the right coloured flowers to suit your bouquet.

The Layout of the Market

The Mercado Jamaica is divided into different areas called “carrils” which means lanes. The northernmost building is almost totally devoid of flowers and is primarily where you’ll find amazing street food. I’ve noted it as the “food market” on the map below. There are maps inside the market but they are few and far between so I went ahead and made my own. As you wander south, you’ll enter Carril #4. As you can see from the map below, marked in green, this section of the market sells “Articulos de 1ra Necesidad” which is like saying grocery items. This is where you’ll find produce, candies, dried peppers, toys and piñatas.

It’s not until the southernmost sections, Carril #2 and #1 that you’ll start to see the true enormity of the flower market. Before you can even see the flowers, you’ll know you’ve arrived. There are two sets of public washrooms in the market. Be sure to bring a 5 peso coin with you as they usually charge a small fee to use the washroom and get a handful of toilet paper when you go inside.

If you arrive via the metro, you should come out of the station on the north side of the market, along Avenue Morelos. If you’re arriving by Uber, set your destination to the northeast corner of the market. At the corner of Avenue Morelos and H. Congreso de la Union.

Carnitas Paty

Your first stop should be at a long communal table right at the front of the market outside the food stall Carnitas Paty. Pig heads hang in the butcher shops down the aisle, and you know right away you’re in the place to get pork! Carnitas Paty specializes in different cuts of meat served up on a double stack of fresh corn tortillas. I would go for the Costilla (ribs), lengua (tongue – which, yes, is amazing) or the trompa (roasted pork). 

All the tacos come topped with raw onions and cilantro. While I thought I’d had carnitas before, after tasting this, it felt like I had never eaten them before in my life. This was the best-tasting taco I’ve ever eaten, and I still dream about it! All their tacos cost 30 pesos, and you can sample the various salsaa spread out on the table for an extra kick.

Tepache

To pair with your tacos, you must try their tepache. Tepache is a fermented pineapple drink made from the peel and the rind of pineapples and refined cane sugar. It has that tang you get from other fermented drinks like kombucha. It is super sweet but delicious and definitely helps cleanse the palette after fatty pork tacos. It’s really the perfect combination! You can get a litre for 30 pesos, a half litre for 15 pesos or just a glass for 12 pesos.

Huaraches Rossy

Beside the Carnitas stand, you can find another stall called Huaraches Rossy. Huaraches are a Mexican street food staple made from a piece of masa dough. The dough is mixed with pinto beans and rolled into an oblong, similar to the shape of the sole of a Huarache shoe, hence the name. The dough is then fried on the comal (grill) and crowned with various toppings.

The huaraches at Huaraches Rossy are known for their sides consisting of a slice of fresh avocado, a cooked nopal pad, fried greens onions and lemon. You can get your Huarache with fried eggs (huevos), cheese (queso), ribs (Costilla), chicken breast (pechuga) and more. My favourite option if you arrive in the morning is fried eggs and cheese. Each huarache costs 65 pesos or $3.30 USD.

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Mariscos Los Paisas

One of the most famous street food stalls in Mercado Jamaica is Mariscos Los Paisas. They are best known for their famous tacos Al pastor made with octopus instead of the traditional pork shoulder. The stacked octopi are spinning around the spit as the chefs coat them in that iconic red al pastor sauce. If you only want to try the octopus tacos, you can simply order one of those, but my recommendation (if you’re a seafood lover) is to go for the trio of tacos. This consists of Carnitas de Atún (tuna tacos), Pulpo al Pastor (octopus al pastor) and Suadero con Camaron (stewed shrimp tacos). Although Mexico City is far from the ocean, they still have access to the fantastic seafood that the oceanside towns are known for. And this is one of the best places in the city to give these dishes a try.

Piñata Market

Walking deeper into the market, into the next building (Carril #4) you will start to see large stalls selling hundreds and hundreds of pinatas. Mercado Jamaica is known for its huge piñatas selection. Design range from traditional stars to cartoon characters. And I even saw a covid one! What a perfect thing to bash away at, a way of taking out all the pent-up frustration over the loss of the last two years. These stands also sell lots of toys, party decorations and little candies perfect to stuff inside the pinatas. 

Fresh Fruit Stands

In this part of the market, you’ll also find rows and rows of vendors selling fresh fruit and vegetables. Many different fruits are stacked high up on tables, they look like little gems as they are so brightly coloured and shiny. Some vacuum sealed inside pre-made fruit baskets ready to be presented as a delicious gift.

There is a myriad of different fruit on sale at the market. Many of which I had never even heard of before, let alone tasted. If you’re in town for a few days, I implore you to just go out and buy a selection of different fruits to try! Even if you have no idea what they are, they cost very little, and it’s so much fun to do a little taste test at home to see which ones are your favourite.

Fruit doesn’t need to be cooked so there’s no need for a kitchen. But you will need a good knife to cut into most fruits. I often ask the vendors if they can cut it open and then put it in a bag. If not, you can always find a vendor in the market who sells kitchen knives.

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What to Try

If you’re interested in a selection of my favourite options, I would start with the Soursop (or guanabana). This fruit is tangy, sweet, and, as the name indicates, sour. It’s a large, green fruit with a hard rind and big spikes. You also should find some black zapote, which tastes like chocolatey permission pudding! It is indeed black when you cut into it, and you can eat it out of the rind with only a spoon. The black zapote is actually green on the outside and similar in shape to a persimmon.

Chirimoya also blew my mind! The Chirimoya is also called the “custard apple” as the flesh inside the fruit is soft and the colour of custard. But it tastes like a strawberry blended with a kiwi. Mark Twain is known for calling the Chirimoya “the most delicious fruit known to man.” It is about the size of a large apple and has what almost looks like green scales on the outside.

Make sure you also see out some mamey fruit if it’s in season. Mamey is a fruit with brown, hairy skin, but it looks like a sweet potato with the pit of an avocado when you cut into it. It is like a combination of apricot, sweet potato and peach. I love the flavour, especially in a smoothie. 

Jamaica Flowers

As the name of the market suggests, you’ll find lots of dried Jamaica (hibiscus) flowers. They can be found in huge, dark purple piles hidden away inside large barrels. The flower heads themselves look like a spikey, shrivelled version of the fresh flower. Jamaica or hibiscus flowers came to Mexico after colonization and actually originated from Africa. The most popular way to use dried flowers in Mexico is in Aguas Frescas. Aguas Fresca translates to “fresh water” and are amazingly refreshing beverages made from, water mixed with a variety of different flavours. The most popular flavour is Jamaica. The drink is made by boiling dried flowers (like you’d do with ta) and mixing them with water, sugar, ginger, and cinnamon. The flavour is incredible and definitely one of my favourite ways to compliment a spicy taco. 

One of my friends also often adds just one dried flower to her pot of cardamon tea, and let me tell you, it’s life-changing! So be sure to grab yourself some dried hibiscus flowers when you’re in the market. If you’re travelling back to the US or Canada, just make sure they are in a sealed bag, but many places in the market do sell them like this if you ask.

Chorizo Verde

Among the fruits and vegetable stands, there is a butcher shop that sells one of the most unique tacos I’ve ever had! You’ll spot their shop by the bright yellow exterior, but there is no store sign outside. You’ll be able to recognize it by the large display of green herbs laid out beneath the meats on sale right out front. As well to fresh meat to bring home for dinner, they also have fresh tacos to sample right there in the Market. Order yourself up a green chorizo taco and take a seat on the small tables out front.

The green chorizo is made from pork sausage, mixed with a blend of fresh green veggies like spinach and lettuce. Then zesty green herbs are added to ramp the flavour up. Anything from cilantro, thyme, marjoram, whatever is in season. After this, they add green chillies (because heat is a staple of the chorizo sausage) and the most important and unique ingredient – NUTS! Yes, that’s right, they add anything from peanuts to pumpkins seeds or almonds to the meat. I cannot explain how unbelievable the taste of this taco is; you just have to try it for yourself. 

Flower Market

As you head further south into the market, you’ll finally start to smell the aroma of fresh flowers. Follow your nose towards the brightly coloured flowers which seem to almost erupt from the ground. Walking around the flower market is the best kind of chaos. People are milling about, grabbing cartfuls of flowers for their stands in the city and small bouquets for their homes. Voices cry over one other as people haggled for the best prices. 

Enormous sunflowers, roses, chrysanthemums, gerbera daisies and lilies line the edges of the aisles in huge brightly coloured buckets. A dozen long stem roses were on sale for only $50 pesos, which is $2.50 USD! A dozen sunflowers about 6 feet tall were on sale for $90 pesos, just 4.60. I couldn’t believe the prices, and it took everything in me not to just go nuts and buy it all. Prices were the best when I visited as it was during the Springtime. If you visit in the winter expect prices to be slightly higher as the flowers are less abundant and need to be ground in greenhouses as opposed to the chinampas.

Florists

As you move through the wholesale market, you’ll come into another section that sells MASSIVE pre-made bouquets from a myriad of different florists. These monumental displays are meant for funerals, communions, weddings and quinceañeras. The flowers are formed into giant hearts, large crosses, and baskets as big as a small child. Apparently, one of the most popular reasons people buy these huge floral arrangements is to apologize for cheating on their wives or girlfriends. The bigger the bouquet, the more sorry you’ll appear. Especially to the neighbours who can’t help but notice you walking home, with this typical guilty display.

La Güera Elotes

At the end of the market, right near the exit doors onto Guillermo Prieto street, is a small shop called La Güera Elotes, selling popular Mexican street food, but elevated to another level. Esquites are fire-roasted corn kernels stewed in lard, mixed with aromatic herbs and Arbol chillies. I’ve had esquites many times before, as they are one of my favourite street snacks, but none as delicious as the ones we got here! There are definitely some secret ingredients at work here. A small cup costs $20 pesos, a medium is $22, and a large is $25. 

You can also get Elotes, which is the same idea, but instead, the corn is grilled on the cob. They offer a specialty here called ‘dorielotes,’ which covers the corn cob mayo which is rolled in crushed Doritos! The store is also famous for its pan de elote, or cornbread. Unlike American cornbread, which is more of a savoury treat, their cornbread is like a cake. It’s very sweet and absolutely fantastic! It’s a bit dry, so be sure to have a drink on hand.

Mural

Before leaving the market, make sure you stop outside along Highway Congreso de la Unión to see the incredible murals painted along the outside of the Mercado Jamaica. Muralism in Mexico is such a popular thing to see everywhere you go. But the murals outside this market are so enormous, and it’s amazing to see the works of art that span the entirety of the building! There is always a new work of art to discover as they change throughout the year. To the delight of the vendors, everyday shoppers, tourists as well as the drivers who pass by on the highway on their way to work. Murals are truly such an incredible way to liven up a street and bring so much joy to an otherwise blank exterior. Much like flowers, that bring life into an otherwise bland space.

I hope you enjoyed this tour of Mercado Jamaica! It’s honestly one of my favourite markets in Mexico City and well worth the time it takes to get here. Despite being a little out of the way, there is so much to see and do here so you’ll really feel like it’s worth the 20-minute drive from the city centre. Let me know in the comment what your favourite market is either in Mexico City or around the world

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of Mercado Jamaica, the Best Flowers Market in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

There has never been anything I’d been so quick to review. During my most recent stay in Mexico City, I was travelling solo. Whenever I’m alone, I love to join a group tour. While I do personally enjoy my solitude, I also enjoy meeting new people and getting to experience new adventures with others. I knew a food tour was in order, as I think there is no better way to get to know someone than having a meal with them! But it took me a while to find a tour that really piqued my interest. But then I found Eat Like a Local.

About Eat Like a Local

Eat Like a Local is a female-owned Mexico City Food Tour company that strives to be one of the best in sustainable tourism. It pays its female-only employees a proper wage and supports female-owned businesses in the market places. Plus, part of the tour price helps young girls go to school to learn to speak English. Providing them with a rich education that sets them up to succeed and grow. Any extra money the tour company earns goes towards sending some of the girls to go on a trip of their own. Anywhere around the world. Allowing them to see the same world of travel, they help tourists experience in their own city.

Giving back to the Community

The company even uses part of the tour price to support the infrastructure of the marketplaces. Helping to improve them. So many tours I saw listed seem to use the marketplaces as a tourist attraction. These tours don’t actively view the marketplace as a real place of work and community. While eating inside the marketplace is great to support the individual businesses, supporting the infrastructure where they work is a sign of a true venture into sustainable tourism. So with all that in mind, and a promise of some truly phenomenal street food, I booked my ticket and joined the tour.

The Best Foor Tour in Mexico City!

1. About Eat Like a Local
2. The Tour Details
3. The Overall Experience
4. La Condesa
5. Taking the Metro
6. Jamaica Market
7. La Merced Market
8. Juarez Gelato Shop

The Tour Details

Cost

Eat Like a Local offers three different food “safaris” for you to choose from. Each one costs $115 USD. This covers all the food you’ll eat on the tour as well as your transportation. I opted for the Mexican Food 101 tour as it seemed to cover the widest variety of food. They also have a Flower Market and Mezcal tasting tour but since I don’t drink very much I thought that one might not be for me. There is also a street food at night tour that I really can’t wait to check out next time I’m in town!

When you book, you’ll only pay half of the total tour price online via their website. The other half you MUST pay in CASH upon meeting the guide. They use this cash to pay for the food along the way. So it’s essential to bring the right amount of money when you arrive at the meeting point. Don’t think you can just stop at the ATM after the tour is over.

How Big is the Tour

Like any good tour group, the size of the group is small. This means you have a much more intimate experience. But with the guide and the rest of the group. I cannot stress enough how the five of us felt like old friends by the end of the day. I even knew all their kids’ names! Small tour groups really are a sign of a great experience to come.

How Long is the Tour?

The entire tour lasted about four hours. In that time we covered a lot of ground (thanks to hopping on and off the metro.) They say that you’ll walk about 4.5 miles throughout the tour. I loved all the walking as it really helped make room for more food! Dress comfortably, and wear good walking shoes. Be sure this means closed-toe shoes since the marketplaces can get wet.

A Note about Safety

When booking the tour, one of the things that both intrigued, excited and made me a bit nervous was the fact we would travel via the metro. I had long wanted to experience taking the metro in Mexico City. But after hearing so many stories about how dangerous it was, I was always hesitant. But my tour guide Panda made the experience fear-free and super explanatory for future trips. The metro was so efficient and I never felt unsafe. And aside from drawing attention to ourselves as a group of loud English speakers on a tour, I don’t think anyone would have given us a second look.

I was careful to bring only my phone with me and kept it in a bag with an internal zip when required. Panda was great about letting us know when we should be more careful. Just like any big city, some areas are more prevalent with pickpockets. The largest market in Barcelona is a huge hot spot for pickpockets, so don’t think it’s just CDMX. I never felt the least bit afraid anywhere we went on the tour. So don’t let their overly cautious advice put you off! Use common sense, leave your large camera at home and don’t wear or bring anything flashy. Our tour guide also took lots of pictures and even emailed them to us afterwards. So if you wanted to just leave everything at home, and immense yourself, you’ll still get lots of souvenir pictures to take home.

Accessibility

This tour might be challenging if you’re travelling in a wheelchair or have issues with accessibility. Both are due to the distance covered and the lack of accessible entrances in various parts of the marketplace. But, you can absolutely reach out to the tour company directly to book a private tour. They do lots of private tours and they will be able to curate a specific tour just for you.

Bathrooms

I am definitely someone who has a small bladder, so bathroom breaks are always imperative for longer tours. There were plenty of stops along the way for bathrooms. Don’t hesitate to ask if you need to use one. Most of the bathrooms inside the marketplace cost 5 pesos to enter, so bring a bit of change to use them. Our guide also had some coins for those who didn’t have any on them.

Dietary Restrictions

The tour states they can accommodate all different dietary restrictions, including vegetarian and gluten-free. Be sure to let them know in advance. This way, they can ensure something will be available for you at every stop. We had a vegetarian with us on our tour, and it was so fun to see all the different alternatives to our dishes. He definitely had to skip one of two stops but there were plenty of options at most places. And honestly, there is so much food on tour, missing out on one or two places might actually be a good idea!

The Overall Experience

Their website lists all the different types of food you’ll taste along the way, so I’m not giving anything away by detailing my experience here. I wanted to share the wonderful stories from my experience as a means to encourage those travelling to Mexico City to book a tour for themselves. But also as a way for those who read my blog to feel immersed in another world to travel along with me. Even if they can’t go themselves. Even if I did give you step-by-step instructions on where to go, you’d never be able to explore these places for yourself. There are too many hidden secrets and tiny sellers that only locals can guide you to.

La Condesa

We met up in La Condesa to start the tour off right with a coffee! This gave us all a chance to meet each other and get to know our guide. Our guide, Panda, was one of the most hilarious and fun people I’d ever met. From the minute she starting she felt like an old school friend and had us all smiling from ear to ear. After grabbing our coffees, we needed a little sweet treat. So we set out for pastries! We stopped at a Condesa institution which sells concha (sweet bread.) The perfect starter to get our stomachs prepped.

Tacos de Canasta

Next, we explored two different street food stalls in La Condesa. One was selling the classic breakfast staple Tacos de Canasta, aka sweaty tacos. These tacos are made by filling a taco with stew and bathing them in oil or butter. They are then layered up inside baskets and sold all over the city. Sometimes on the back of bicycles, but in this case at a street food stall.

The man working here had been selling them for over 35 years!! He is so popular that he made enough money selling these tacos to be able to send his kids to university! Here you had the options of a variety of fillings, from pork to potato and chicharron. Once you pick your filling, you could smother them in hot sauce. I was so surprised by how delicious they were. I had never tried tacos de canasta before because I thought they’d be soggy. But that wasn’t the case at all! I could have honestly eaten a dozen. But knew I had to save room in my stomach, as this was only our second stop!

Mixiotes

The next stop was tacos mixiotes. Mixiotes are made from stewing meat inside an agave leaf bag. The meat was so flavourful, seasoned with a mixture of all different chillies. This stand had almost a dozen other toppings you could add to your taco. I wanted to really savour the flavour of the meat, so I just went with a few slices of nopales (cactus) pads. And, of course, a squeeze of lime and hot sauce.

It was about now that I realized I would never be able to finish everything we sampled at this rate. As much as I wanted to because everything we ate was delicious. Thankfully, Panda, our guide, stepped in and told us no one would be offended if we didn’t finish. And we could split what we could share, or she could ask the vendor for a smaller portion. I felt so relieved as I’m always so worried that my small stomach and inability to always finish what’s on my plate is apt to offend the cook!

Taking the Metro

After this stop, we hopped onto the metro at Baldera station. I had been pretty nervous about riding the metro. But from the minute we descended down into the station, I realized how perfectly normal and unintimidating it was. All your tickets are paid for upon entering, but Panda took us through how to buy your tickets and use the system in case you want to ride the metro on your own after the tour.

The metro platforms were incredibly clean and actually super pretty to look at. The floors and walls were made of beautiful stone that looked like the station were carved out of the ground. While we were on tour, the metro was fairly empty, only getting busy near mid-afternoon. Most of the time, we could all get seats with no problem. When the cars were super full, we simply waited for the next train. They come very frequently so we had no trouble getting enough space and feeling safe. Interesting to note that there are also female-only train cars. These are marked on the floor of the station platform with pink signs marked with “Solo Dames y Menores de 12 Anos.”

Jamaica Market

The next stop on tour was inside Jamaica Market! Although you might read the word “Jamaica” and think of the country, Jamaica actually means “hibiscus flower” in Spanish. The Jamaica Market is home to the largest flower market in the city, with over 1,150 stalls selling over 5,000 different varieties of flowers! Almost all of them grown around Mexico.

The market is divided into two different areas; the first is almost devoid of flowers entirely and primarily sells produce, meat and other grocery staples. When you cross over to the second section of the market, you’re immediately overwhelmed with the smell of flowers. Before you can even see the flowers, you’ll know you’ve arrived.

Tacos Carnitas & Tepache

Our first stop was at a long communal table right at the market entrance. Pig heads hung in the butcher shops down the aislse, and you knew right away this was the place to get pork! The order was simple, tacos de carnitas, topped with raw onions and cilantro. While I thought I’d had carnitas before, after tasting this, it felt like I had never eaten them before in my life. This was the best-tasting taco I’ve ever eaten, and I still dream about it! While we were eating, Panda explained to us the myths about why you are almost always given two tortillas with every serving of tacos. But I’ll leave that tidbit for you to discover on tour…

To pair with our tacos, we got to sample tepache. Tepache is a fermented pineapple drink made from the peel and the rind of pineapples and refined cane sugar. It had that tang you get from other fermented drinks like kombucha. It was super sweet but so delicious and definitely cleansed the palette from the fatty pork tacos. The perfect combination!

Jicaleta

Next up, we walked around the market to the brightly coloured bins of what looked like powdered sugar. Beside these pins were huge round discs on popsicle sticks that looked like white lollipops with the words “Rico Jicaleta.” I have seen these signs all over the city and always wondered what they were! It turns out the giant thing on a popsicle stick is a Jicama, a root vegetable.

To convince kids to eat their vegetables, someone came up with the genius idea to cover the jicama with chamoy (pickled plum with chile sauce) and then dip the veggie in powdered sugar. Since the jicama is pretty neutral in its flavouring it allows itself to be the vehicle for these amazing flavours of powered sugar. Everything as simple as strawberry or blueberry to more exciting flavours like mango chilli and tamarind. You can even use the other colours to create a cool rainbow-like pattern on the jicama. I can see why these are such a popular treat with both kids and adults.

Piñata Market

Next up on tour, we walked deeper into the marketplace amongst hundreds and hundreds of piñatas. The Jamaica market is known for its huge piñatas selection. Design range from traditional stars to cartoon characters. And I even saw a covid one! What a perfect thing to bash away at, a way of taking out all the pent up frustration over the loss of the last two years.

Chorizo Verde

Sitting down outside a small shop beside piles of bright fruits and vegetables, we tried what I thought was the most incredible taco innovation of the whole tour; green chorizo! The proud owner displayed all his different types of chorizo sausages outside the shop. But none were as eye wateringly delicious to look at as the green chorizo. The pork-based sausage is mixed with a blend of fresh green veggies like spinach and lettuce. Then zesty green herbs are added to ramp the flavour up. Anything from cilantro, thyme, marjoram, whatever is in season.

After this they add green chillies (because heat is a staple of the chorizo sausage) and the most important and unique ingredient – NUTS! Yes, that’s right, they add anything from peanuts to pumpkins seeds or almonds to the meat. We ate it completely plain to start to ensure we could appreciate the flavour of all the ingredients. And OMG, I cannot explain how incredible this was. Truly one of the most unique and surprising parts of the tour. I wish I could remember where this was so I could go back to eat more!

Heading down to the other side of the market, we stopped at a few more stalls for some tiny samples as we went. Crispy tortillas covered in locally made crema y queso (cream cheese) and a bite of chicharrón (deep-fried pork skin).

Fresh Fruit Stalls

On the other side of the market, where the smell of flowers filled the air, we stopped for a selection of fresh fruit. The fruit was just what the doctor ordered to change things up and refresh my palette. I always admire the beautiful spreads at these fruit stands when I pass by. So many different fruits I’ve never tried, let alone seen before. Lucky for me, when we stopped, the friendliest man came out from behind the piles of fruit with these little banana leaf trays. Inside were slices of all kinds of fruits. Panda took us through what each bite was, and we dove in.

My taste buds were exploding. I couldn’t believe how delicious some of these fruits were, things I’d never tried before, which set my mouth alight. My favourite by far was the Soursop, which was tangy, sweet, and, as the name indicates, sour. I need to find this in Toronto! And my other favourite was the black zapote, which tastes like chocolatey permission pudding! The Chirimoya blew my mind as it tasted like a strawberry blended with a kiwi. I was truly entranced by all the flavours and vowed to make more of an effort to buy fresh fruit next time I’m in town.

Wholesale Flowers

Walking around the flower market was the best kind of chaos. We didn’t have a ton of time to admire the flowers; this is a working market, after all. People were milling about, grabbing carfuls of flowers for their stands in the city and small bouquets for their homes. Voices cried over one and other as people haggled for the best price.

During the Day of the Dead ceremonies, this market is packed to the rooftops with trucks full of orange Mexican marigolds. These are the most popular flower synonymous with the festival. They are used to decorate the ofrendas of past loved ones as the brightly coloured flowers are thought to guide the spirits of those who have passed back home.

As we moved through the crowds of people, we arrived at the back, where the larger floral displays are located. These are for celebrations like communions and quinceaneras in addition to funerals and weddings. But apparently, one of the most popular reasons people buy huge floral displays is to apologize for cheating on their wives…or at least that’s what Panda told us! The bigger the arrangement, the more sorry you are!

Esquites

The next stop on tour was for a cup of esquites fritos. Esquites are fire-roasted corn kernels, stewed in lard, and mixed with aromatic herbs and arbol chillies. I’ve had esquites many times before, as they are one of my favourite street snacks, but none as delicious as the ones we got here! There are definitely some secret ingredients at work here.

Before leaving the market, we stopped at a tortilla maker cranking out hundreds of perfect corn circles every hour. There is genuinely nothing more fresh than eating a hot tortilla right off the press. With nothing more than a sprinkle of salt, you can really appreciate how simple and complex the flavours are. And why this tiny disc has become such a staple of Mexican food throughout the centuries.

La Merced Market

After a quick bathroom break, we hopped back on the metro. We transferred from the teal line (#4) to the pink line (#1) and made our way directly into the Mercados de la Merced. Mercados de la Merced, or La Merced Market, has its own dedicated metro stop. And unlike other metro stations where you need to exit onto the street to get to your next destination, this stop exits right into the heart of the market. This is actually the only way you should enter the market. The exterior streets around here are a little dangerous but by entering directly inside, you avoid the exterior entirely.

History of the Market

La Merced Market is named after the monastery of Nuestra Señora de la Merced de Redención de Cautivos. The monastery was established here in 1594, just after the Spanish Conquest. The neighbourhood that sprang up around the monastery also goes by the name La Merced. After the conquest, this part of the city, being just on the outskirts (before the expansion of what is now CDMX), was a hotbed for traders. They would arrive here from all different parts of the country and beyond. They could easily dump their goods here for sale and transfer further into the central part of the city.

By 1860, almost the entire neighbourhood was one big market. So the city decided to move the marketplace into a permanent, covered building. By now, the old La Merced Monastery has been closed down for years. But the empty building proved to be the perfect place to establish the new permanent market.

20th Century Market

In the 20th century, the market continued to expand becoming one of the largest wholesale markets in the city. Here you can find everything from fruit, vegetables, meat, poultry, toys, clothes, flowers, candy and more.

Sadly, there is a dark history to the building as well. In 1988 a fireworks stall exploded inside the marketplace, killing more than 60 people! Then again, in 1998, there was another fire due to faulty wiring that destroyed much of the old main hall and 572 stalls. Luckily no one was killed in that fire, but the damage was extensive. Despite the accident occurring almost 20 years ago, repairs are still ongoing.

Just in front of the entrance to the market from the metro station, you’ll see a cheerful cartoon map of the marketplace. Each different section of the market is dedicated to a different specialty, so you know exactly where to go for what. I was immediately drawn to the candy section and was delighted to hear we would be stopping in there near the end of the tour.

Insects

Our first stop inside the market threw us right into the deep end of Mexican cuisine, at the Insectos stand. Yes, that’s right, bugs! I actually really like bugs as food; I’ve had them a few times around the world and find the flavour pretty interesting. If you don’t want to try them, just politely say no. Don’t make a big show of being grossed out or anything like that. Insects have been eaten and used in cooking here for centuries. It’s disrespectful to act disgusted by a kind of food they consider pretty normal.

I do recommend trying them at least once. And when you stop here at the stall, they also give you a glass of freshly pressed pineapple juice to chase down the bugs. In case it’s just not for you. My favourite was the crickets, but I was actually surprised how much I liked the little worms! The scorpion was the least tasty, a little too earthy for my liking, but I’m sure it would be great in other dishes.

Micheladas

We walked through the crowds of stalls towards the outer edge of the market, along Rosario street. Despite being a working street, with cars and lorries driving through, it also feels like an extension of the marketplace. Stalls pour out onto the streets with their wares leaning out so far they almost touch either side of the road. It’s so tight that often when a big truck comes thru, some stores need to move things they’re selling back inside to allow the cars to pass. It’s a very cool bit of choreography to watch.

We took a seat inside a casual bar where we gathered around a large table, welcomed by the smiles of the locals. Then we were given a series of brightly colours bowls, jars and glass bottles, like a modern-day apothecary in the centre of Mexico City. We were greeted by the amazingly kind Arely, one of the girls from the 80IQ program. 80IQ is a program created by the Eat Like a Local founder that funds the education of these young women and where they also receive mentoring.

With her adorable son in tow, Arley came to our table to practice speaking English and teach us to make a Mexican Michelada. Micheladas are such a fun beverage to make and we loved learning all the steps and ingredients that go into it! First, cover the rim in chamoy and dip in caramelized sesame seeds. Next, add more chamoy, Worcestershire, and hot sauce then filled the glass with a cold beer! Since I don’t drink beer, so I was given a glass of fizzy pineapple juice, and let me tell you mixture was just as delicious!!! We took this chance to enjoy our cold drinks, a refreshing break from the heat of the day. We grabbed for a bit, chatting with Arley and even celebrating an anniversary in our little group!

Quesadillas

From here, Arley handed us over to Wendy, another girl from the program. Wendy spoke incredibly well at only 14 years old and was such a great guide! She took us to her grandmother’s street food stall, where a series of women bustling around a hot comal. They went about serving us bite-size pieces of a variety of classic Mexican street food samples.

Huitlacoche

The one I was most excited about trying were the quesadillas. Although this might not seem very exotic, the filling inside the quesadilla was ‘huitlacoche‘ or, as it is known in English, corn smut! Huitlacoche is considered a delicacy in Mexico, even though it might not seem very appetizing. The word comes from the Nahuatl language and means “sleeping excrescence,” because the corn is transformed by a fungus that impedes them from developing. Thus, they remain “sleeping.” If the fungus doesn’t sound appealing to you, I’d ask, “well, have you ever eaten mushroom?” because the flavour is essentially the same. I couldn’t believe how complex the flavour was, and I was so happy I had finally been able to sample it! 

Pambazo

We also got quesadillas with squash blossoms filled with cheese from Oaxaca. Then there was a slice of tlacoyo filled with black beans and covered in requeson (like ricotta cheese) and more nopales. The last item on the place was Pambazo. The pambazo sandwich is apparently the most authentic Mexico City street food. One that originated here. It is made from a white bun that has been dipped in adobo sauce and then filled with chorizo, cheese, cream and lettuce.

Candy

After all this, I thought there was no way I’d ever be able to get up. But somehow, we shuffled out of the tiny chairs outside the street food stall and bid a sad farewell to Wendy’s family. They waved goodbye to us with big smiles as we headed back into the crowded marketplace. But I perked up as we learned we were on our way to the candy district. There are many reasons I love Mexico City, but one of them has got to be their love of bulk candies. You can find little carts wheeling around the neighbourhood every day. Filled with candy fills at the ready for your cravings. But here in the marketplace must be where they all come to load up these carts every morning.

Candies exploded out of bins and baskets in rainbow colours everywhere we looked. We sampled a few unique varieties like dried mango with chilis, tamarind candies, spicy candied almonds and, of course, lots and lots of flavoured powdered sugar. My favourites are these little fruit-shaped gummies that look like they are made of glass. Almost too pretty to eat! I could honestly have been here for hours, but I was too full to try anything more, lucky for my blood sugar.

Juarez Gelato Shop

To arrive at our last stop on tour, we hopped once more on the metro and made our way over to the Juarez neighbourhood. This part of town is just starting to become a new hot spot for hip eateries. We stopped at one of the chicest gelato shops, where we were greeted by flavours out of this world. Tamarind & mezcal, Oaxacan chocolate, cempasúchil (marigold), tonka bean, olive oil, lavender, and even epazote elato leaf are just some of the falvours that are on rotation here. We got to sample any three flavours we wanted. Although I had felt like I couldn’t eat another bite earlier, there seems to always be a second stomach for dessert.

This was our last stop, so we all just sat around chatting while eating our ice cream. None of us wanted to leave. We had all really become friends by the end of the day. Panda gave us all her recommendations based on the questions we asked along the way. After much hesitation, we all eventually parted ways! Leaving with full bellies, smiles on our faces, and lots of stories to share with our friends and family. The perfect end to the perfect tour.

To Tip or Not to Tip?

Tipping is always a considerate thing to do at the end of a tour just as at the end of a meal. It’s a way to say “thank you” to the guide for their time, effort and expertise. While it’s not required, it is appreciated. Don’t feel the need to financially burden yourself but honestly, even a little bit goes a long way to show your appreciation.

I truly can’t say enough good things about this tour and I really hope if you get the chance to visit Mexico City you put booking this Mexico City Food Tour with Eat Like a Local at the top of your list!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Best Street Food Tour in Mexico City! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.